When it go through the menu to check the battery level it is over 14 volts

Well, let me start by saying the DIC has useful information. But the voltage it displays is only a rough value of the system voltage. Here is the thing, even a new fully charged AGM battery won't get to 14 volts. What you are seeing is the alternator voltage, and its voltage usually is between 13.5 and 14.5 VDC.

I tightened it so tight it started making a indent in the terminal post

What I'm about to tell you comes out of 20 years of working with batteries as a part of my job. The least important factor in how well a battery connection flows power is how "tight" it is. The most important factor is the total surface area of the connection. Both the battery posts and the inside surfaces of the cable connectors need to be uniform, to be clear both battery posts and both cable connectors. The same also goes for corrosion on those surfaces, if you see anything on the battery post that isn't lead or anything inside the cable connector that isn't metal it needs to go. Your battery posts actually look pretty good in that respect, but your positive post might have a bit on the bottom 1/3. And lastly, yes, the posts do need to be secured. Tighten them until you feel the lead beginning to deform, and stop. Then give it a wiggle test, and go slightly tighter if you need to.

lt is sluggish when first cranked and sometimes the message comes up service power steering comes on

I'm thinking your battery isn't getting fully charged. So between not having full battery voltage, and the fact the alternator doesn't put out power for about the first 5 seconds after starting, that is were the sluggishness is coming from.

Here is what I would do.
1) Go buy a battery brush, it might be the best $5 you will ever spent. Not only do they do an amazing job cleaning and smoothing the posts and connectors, they will leave a very fine etching in the lead that will greatly increase the connection bond.

2) Check the negative battery terminal frame connection. Remove ALL the cables from the frame bolt. Using a fine sandpaper shine both sides of each connector, and the base of the frame bolt. Try not to sand the bolt threads, just wipe them off with a clean rag.

3) Check that the negative battery cable is going through the loop of the current sensor. If it isn't your battery will never get charged properly.

4) Charge the battery or run the car for at least an hour so the alternator gets an honest chance to charge the battery. If the problem persists, get your battery load tested. Most batteries are built so cheap these days, having one fail in only 2-3 years isn't a rare occurrence.

5) If you still have issues get back to us

 

If the battery isn't soaking the charge. It all sits on top..That would be why he has 14v. It's all accumulating on top.

 

You just made my week.

 

Check voltage before the car is started or have it tested at an auto parts store. Sounds like the battery is on its way out.

 

I tried that at one time but the service power steering soon came on the screen. But seems that my son looked at it came up only 10v before cranked. But while i was driving I looked at it was running 14v which was pulling from alt. But i was floored that the battery only lasted only almost 2 years. Bought it oct 19. But I changed out the battery and all good now.

 

If I were you I would get the battery load tested, make sure it's ok or not, because another cause of sluggish starting could simply be a weakening starter solenoid. All-be-it it is a little more rare but based on the age of your car definitely not without merit.