# Adding a sub and re-doing the grounds



## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Why not get a Big 4 kit? Big 4 Power Wire Kit

I would run a power directly from the battery to the Amp for positive connection, the ground you should be able to find a bolt to remove in the trunk/spare tire area, put a connector on the wire that loops around the bolt, and screw it back in.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Thebigzeus said:


> Why not get a Big 4 kit? Big 4 Power Wire Kit
> 
> I would run a power directly from the battery to the Amp for positive connection, the ground you should be able to find a bolt to remove in the trunk/spare tire area, put a connector on the wire that loops around the bolt, and screw it back in.



Been done my research,

The ground does indeed need to be routed through the hall effect sensor so the car can sense the return current and may have to re route a current ground connection that the previous owner made cuase of it. 

Alternator power return connects in on the fuse plate so will be doubling that alternator connection up. and will be running the power to the amp right off the positive terminal connection. I forgot about adding in a engine block ground strap too. 

Need to find som 20awg 9 wire so I can tap the speakers as to use the amp's internal loc.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Seems like you already have it all figured out. Good deal.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> The ground does indeed need to be routed through the hall effect sensor so the car can sense the return current and may have to re route a current ground connection that the previous owner made cuase of it.


If you use a GND in the trunk as Thebigzeus suggested, that will ensure the amp current gets properly sensed - that current will ultimately flow back thru the existing return ground wire to the battery. No need to run a separate wire. (But, if a separate ground wire is run, I agree, it needs to be routed thru the sensor.)



> Need to find som 20awg 9 wire so I can tap the speakers as to use the amp's internal loc.


That's smart. Most folks don't get that (about the amp's "internal loc").

20 gauge will work fine. There is virtually no current in these wires, so you can go very light on them - 30 gauge will work, too, if that saves you a nickel, or an extra trip to the store.

HTH.
Doug

.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

plano-doug said:


> If you use a GND in the trunk as Thebigzeus suggested, that will ensure the amp current gets properly sensed - that current will ultimately flow back thru the existing return ground wire to the battery. No need to run a separate wire.


Yep  Thanks for confirming Doug!


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> If you use a GND in the trunk as Thebigzeus suggested, that will ensure the amp current gets properly sensed - that current will ultimately flow back thru the existing return ground wire to the battery. No need to run a separate wire. (But, if a separate ground wire is run, I agree, it needs to be routed thru the sensor.)
> 
> That's smart. Most folks don't get that (about the amp's "internal loc").
> 
> ...


One concern I have is the stock ground strap from the battery is rated for 20 amp. The amplifier can draw up to 36amps at max. So theres a 16amp overage let alone what the car is using at any given time. Just want to make sure as the current wires are a bit crunchy from their years of abuse.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Cruzing12 said:


> One concern I have is the stock ground strap from the battery is rated for 20 amp. The amplifier can draw up to 36amps at max. So theres a 16amp overage let alone what the car is using at any given time. Just want to make sure as the current wires are a bit crunchy from their years of abuse.


That’s why I recommended the kit. It adds a 2nd ground from battery to body.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> One concern I have is the stock ground strap from the battery is rated for 20 amp. The amplifier can draw up to 36amps at max. So theres a 16amp overage let alone what the car is using at any given time. Just want to make sure as the current wires are a bit crunchy from their years of abuse.


Here's a pic of the ground return in my 2013 Cruze. I'm not sure the exact gauge, but it's way heavier than 12 gauge (20 amp). This wire is on the order of 8mm diameter, which can readily handle loads in the vicinity of 200 amps over short distances, as is the case here in the car.

I don't think there's anything to worry about, assuming yours is in good condition and not corroded.

HTH.
Doug










.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

This is what I'm contending with ground wise not too clean looking...

Still dragging along on this install I got 20awg 9 wire from the audio shop but have a feeling 13 feet won't reach from the back and throught the right hand kick panels so will try my best running through the console and under the rear seat.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> View attachment 289770
> 
> 
> View attachment 289771
> ...


Dielectric grease. Buy some. Yesterday.

Beyond that it looks fine really. I wouldn’t even bother cleaning any of that unless there is a problem.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Got it to a point of working. And it thumps pretty good. 











Soldering up the 9 wire was easy and seamless









X8










Wrap it all tight and pull the 9 wire back into the dash to be flush with radio harness for no fitment issues.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Ran the wire through the console and through the rear seats. Only luggage goes in the back so theres no issue with it.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Cool, looks like a clean install! Solder is the best connection


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Figured I'd come back for a update. Since putting in the amp I've gone to a H7 sized agm battery. 850cca 1000ca 80Ah, and just now finished off the ground strap from the extra current. So I added a 4 awg ground strap to the chassis and the head, aswell as a 4 awg from the alternator to the positive.


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