# Interior trim removal.



## KitH151 (Mar 25, 2011)

The door panels have 2 screws and then is connected throughout with pins. One of the screws is behind the door handle, you'll need to remove a plastic cover with a screwdriver first. The second screw is under the rubber piece in the arm rest. After removing these, its a matter of pulling the door panel off. I'd suggest starting at the inner side and working your way out. Be aware that it will probably sound like you're breaking things, the clips terrified me on the first door panel I removed (and really any trim for that matter).

The columns on the windshield are held in with just clips. Pull from the top. Trust me, I felt the same way when I saw the airbag symbols, but I didn't have a problem.

As for tweeters, they are supposed to be 25mm (1in) tweeters, but if there is any casing around your tweeters (such as was the case with my polk audio set) they aren't going to fit into the designated area.


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## Vulgar_Display (Apr 23, 2011)

You say that there is a screw behind the rubber piece on the arm rest? Does that part just pop off to reveal the screw or how do you get it at? 

My next question is it necessary to use a signal summing/eq flatener on the stock head unit? I'm thinking about getting the jl hd 900.5, ranbow components, and a jl 10w6. With that set up I will be able to add some better speakers for rear fill when I feel like dropping some more money. 

I spend 2 hours in my car a day I might as well listen to some real good music.


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## bigbee60 (Nov 24, 2010)

A good rule of thumb in any car work is to remove the negative battery terminal before starting work. That way you won't short out any airbag sensors, etc. I've swapped steering wheels and airbags, ran power to auto-dimming mirrors through the A pillars, and changed seat tracks on airbag equipped seats over the years with no issues, but doing all those with the power off is the best way to tackle them.

I put the cable end where it connect to the battery into an old sneaker while I'm working so it doesn't hit the frame or some other metallic piece and possibly come to life.


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## KitH151 (Mar 25, 2011)

Vulgar_Display said:


> You say that there is a screw behind the rubber piece on the arm rest? Does that part just pop off to reveal the screw or how do you get it at?


The rubber piece down in the arm rest should just slide out. There's no glue or anything. For the piece of plastic behind the door handle you can probably use your fingernail or, worst case scenario, a flat head screw driver to remove it. If you need/want pics let me know and I'll get them in the morning.



Vulgar_Display said:


> My next question is it necessary to use a signal summing/eq flatener on the stock head unit? I'm thinking about getting the jl hd 900.5, ranbow components, and a jl 10w6. With that set up I will be able to add some better speakers for rear fill when I feel like dropping some more money.


You shouldn't need one. That system should work pretty well for you.

As for an audio section to the forums, I also think this might not be a bad idea. There are a decent number of threads about it, and while using search in the general section does work, it would be nice to have a designated area. Just my 2 cents.


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## Vulgar_Display (Apr 23, 2011)

By the way in case anyone didn't know if you go into the settings on your cruze radio you can turn off the automatic volume adjusting crap.


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## cruzeman (Mar 13, 2011)

KitH151 said:


> The rubber piece down in the arm rest should just slide out. There's no glue or anything. For the piece of plastic behind the door handle you can probably use your fingernail or, worst case scenario, a flat head screw driver to remove it. If you need/want pics let me know and I'll get them in the morning..


can anyone offer any advice as to how the rubber arm rest slides out? and does the door handle stay on car or does that have to come off as well?


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## cruzeman (Mar 13, 2011)

anybody??? I need help!!!!


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