# Do I need a new engine?!



## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

"Apparently" ? No Oil = disaster. Once the damage is done, it's done. Even if you have oil in it NOW......Gotta check that dipstick once in a while. But...that's what charge cards are for. Hope you got a good one........

Consider a 2nd opinion...but...........g'luck


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## ralph1981 (Jul 29, 2019)

Try Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.

Makes the oil sticky, tacky and thicker. Can help worn engines. Change the motor oil minus 1 quart then add the above mentioned LHDOS. Drive for 15 minutes. If not better driving, motor is dead. The Cruze has to be monitored like a hawk. You never know what will fail next.

Valve lifters can be changed, but mechanics will charge an arm and a leg. Replacing them yourself much cheaper, if you are up to the challenge.

In either case, you will have to remove the cylinder head which means new head gasket (can be pricey) and tightening the head bolts to specifications. Removing the bolts can be hard.

May aswell get another cylinder head from an engine with 100k miles or less from "the wreckers" as we call them here in Australia. Problem is you will never know the true mileage of the head. They can say it has 10k miles and lie.

Try the Lucas first.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Mandilee999 said:


> I’m new to the forum and just want some opinions on my 2012 1.4 Turbo RS LTZ Chevy Cruze..130,000 miles on it. a few weeks ago my car started to loose power and a loud ticking noise started at the same time...I drove the car for about 30 miles after that started because I had to get home (it was 3am). As soon as I got off the highway, the ‘oil pressure low’ dash light came on. I pulled over and turned off the engine right away. Luckily, I was right in front of my mechanics shop when that light came on. My car never overheated and never smoked. My mechanic told me that he filled it with oil (apparently it was out of oil) and started the car, but noticed the loud ticking noise. And based off of that, he said I need a new motor. He said that I didn’t seize my motor YET, but if I drove it again, I might blow it for good, even if I have oil in it. So my question is...is there anyway I can replace the lifters only? Someone told me that that was the ticking noise - the lifters failed due to no lubrication. Or do I need to start looking for a new engine? How do I know for sure if this problem isn’t fixable ? Someone please help! Thanks


Welcome Aboard!

I would consider doing some troubleshooting first. There are many causes for ticking. I would start by changing the oil.


_This is my standing click, tick and rattle list (Thanks to many people including JBlackburn, Robby, BigLee and more) :_

1. Could be just the injectors






2. Could be the plastic ECOTEC cover rattling

3. Check that the spark plugs are properly torqued - similar sound, mimics loose valves - Re-gap the plugs to .028, torque to 18 ft-lbs,no anti-seize with stock type plugs, inspect the boots and insure no rips / tears or holes, lightly coat the boots with silicone / dielectirc grease, make sure the resister springs are clean and not cocked in the boots.
These are the recommended plugs from the Hesitation Gone thread:
*-BKR8EIX-2668* (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
*-BKR7E-4644* (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

4. Could be a failing EVAP purge solenoid/valve or possibly a vacuum leak causing the purge valve to stay open. You can find it right above your intake manifold.
Unplug the electrical connector to the purge solenoid while it's running, and see if the noise goes away. If it does, replace the purge solenoid assembly.
Many of these tend to get very noisy with age, and since it is duty cycled by the PCM it tends to sound very similar to valve-train noise. Part number is 5573017

Purge Solenoid, Purge Control Valve, Valve, 









5. Could be a lifter tick - how's the oil - possibly try seafoam or valvemedic

6. Could be the timing chain tensioner

7. Could be a sloppy timing chain

8. Could be piston slap/wrist pin failure. Remember, piston slap would be noticeable also in neutral.

_9. _Pinging caused by low octane fuel, possibly try using 91 octane fuel for a few tanks.

10. Could possibly be an improperly torqued bolt on the flywheel/torque converter (noise from the trans side)

11. Might be a bad wheel bearing, I personally had this issue.

12. Possibly the knock Sensor going off or bad and it can be exacerbated by any of the above. . The knock sensor is ALWAYS listening. The ECM is constantly adjusting spark/cam timing to run as efficiently as it can, and it should pick up on audible knock/pinging and adjust it before you even hear it.

13. Maybe your AC compressor is going bad

14. Sometimes carbon on tops of pistons or valves can cause some knock. There are several "top engine cleaners" on the market to clean that off.

15. Fuel or brake lines vibrating
#PIC5853: Buzz Vibration Noise Floor Dash Area 1800-2200 Engine RPM - (Apr 22, 2013)

Subject:Buzz Vibration Noise Floor Dash Area 1800-2200 Engine RPMModels:2013 Chevrolet Cruze
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern Some customers may comment of a buzz noise and or vibration in the dash or floor board areas, most noticeable at 1800-2200 engine rpm.
This condition may be caused by fuel line and/or brake line vibrations entering into the cabin area through the front of dash. Even though the fuel lines and/or brake lines are fully seated in their retainers, vibrations may still pass into the cabin area.
Recommendation/Instructions Use additional tape on the affected line(s) and/or add a small O-ring underneath the affected clip(s) to provide better isolation of the clip.
Further insure that the lines do not make any contact with the front of cowl that could further cause a noise or vibration.
Validate the repair by checking for noise or vibration at 1800-2200 engine RPM.

16. Missing air deflector fasteners
#PIC5874: Fluttering Rattling or Thumping Type Noise Above 45 MPH - (Jun 12, 2013)
Subject: Fluttering Rattling or Thumping Type Noise Above 45 MPH

Models: 2011 - 2014 Chevrolet Cruze
2012 -2014 Buick Verano
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern
A customer may indicate there is a flutter or thumping type noise from the side or underneath the vehicle at speeds 45 mph and above.

Recommendation/Instructions
Check the air deflectors mounted on either side under the vehicle. Make sure that all fasteners are in place and secure. Replace fasteners as needed.

If all fasteners are secure, it may be necessary to apply felt to the underbody above the the inside edge of each air deflector (between each fastener location) to eliminate this noise.

_Different sound bytes to choose from:_





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Some of the associated error codes:_

*P0324: Potential causes for this code to set are:*
Defective knock sensor/s
Internal engine malfunction
Ignition misfire/s
Contaminated or substandard fuel
Defective knock sensor control wiring and/or connectors
Bad PCM or a
PCM programing error
Read more at:* P0324 Knock Control System Error*

A new one is the midpipe bracket bolt coming loose









Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

A lot of things can make ticking noises on an engine as stated above. Odds are not in your engines favor if it was ran out of oil and is now making a ticking noise that it wasn't before. 

Main and rod bearings don't last long without pressurized oil protecting them. 
The top end (cams/lifters) could also be damaged as they would have been lacking oil too. 

Really hard to say whst the exact source is without hearing it, but most of these problems require rebuild or replacement of part or all the engine. 

Fresh oil and close monitoring of the engine noise and performance as well ad watch for CELs or low oil pressure light.


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## DeerSpotter (11 mo ago)

I can vouch for this. 2014 chevy Cruze 1.4 LT Lucas oil Heavy duty oil stabilizer did the trick. I used 35% I have no oil burning just the oil getting bad really quick and it pisses me off that synthetic is not the same synthetic when it originally came out. Todays synthetic rips you off faster.


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