# First Oil Change



## Beaker (Mar 21, 2012)

I did Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 myself yesterday at 1000 miles. The guy who did it said the same thing about the drain plug. I only pay to have it done because its my buddies shop and the $13 is worth the hour of my time. Plus I had to pick up the oil. I'm planning to become an Amsoil dealer so if anyone wants some, let me know and I can order and have it shipped to you. I was once before but let it lapse.

Honestly I don't see how fires are linked to an oil change unless they royally smurfed something up. Unless the car was an Eco and at an odd angle that made half the oil go onto the panels for less air resistance, it went near the turbo, and caught fire that way, I don't see it happening. Either that or when they were removing the filter or refilling the oil they got oil all over the turbo from the top.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The fires are related to changing the oil filter and not properly cleaning up afterwords. The oil filter is on top of the engine, not the bottom. Since I see absolutely no benefit to running clean oil through a dirty oil filter I always replace the oil filter when I change the oil.


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## Beaker (Mar 21, 2012)

Yes I know where the oil filter is. As I said. When they were removing the oil filter or refilling the oil, they must have dripped oil onto the turbo. It just being on the block wouldn't be hot enough for it to ignite. It would just smoke and burn off.


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## smorey78 (Apr 8, 2012)

Yes i love ams oil. they got the best warranty. its just very good oil and to see that they publish all there testing for anyone to see and judge for them self. I change my own oil but i got my own shop. i have not worked for GM for 4 years and i am amazed at how different the cars are from what ther were in 2008. i must say thing are looking much better in quality! it was funny though i always leave the dip stick out so i always remember to check my oil level (some thing an oil change guy tought me when i was starting out) but when i started the car up it started to run bad like it had a vaccum leak...here it ws the dip stick. as soon as i put it back in, it cleared up. i have never noticed this on any other car that i have changed oil in???


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## Beaker (Mar 21, 2012)

Well I signed back up as a dealer so if you want any let me know.


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## silverram323 (Mar 16, 2012)

I also changed the oil in my 2011 Cruze and i am also a AMSOIL dealer and i put in *Signature Series 100% Synthetic 5W-30 *I can see how a fire can happen if your not careful, I didn't have any issues but i noticed that if your in a hurry and spill oil while pouring oil in the valve cover it will run down the side, and then on the Exhaust manifold then onto the turbo down pipe, etc. All of those get extremely HOT and it would ignite easily if not cleaned up. I also cracked loose the oil filter cap and let it sit there for 3 minutes to let the oil drain back into the block, I did not spill a drop.


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## GoldenCruze (Dec 18, 2011)

smorey78 said:


> it was funny though i always leave the dip stick out so i always remember to check my oil level (some thing an oil change guy tought me when i was starting out) but when i started the car up it started to run bad like it had a vaccum leak...here it ws the dip stick. as soon as i put it back in, it cleared up. i have never noticed this on any other car that i have changed oil in???


Others have found the same thing when the dip stick is not fully seated. You'll notice that there's an o-ring on it at the cap to form an air tight seal. I can see vacumn issues becoming a mystery problem a few years down the road as those o-rings wear out, or a valve cover gasket Or other component creates a vacumn leak.


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## pedaltheglobe (Apr 5, 2012)

Does the manufacturer recommend the first oil change to be done early? The reason I ask is I get my first two oil changes free and hoping they don't give me any problems coming in early.


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## Beaker (Mar 21, 2012)

They do not suggest it nor advise against it. It is just a peace of mind type thing. During break-in, engines shed small metal particles. So those of us who are more proactive on our vehicles maintenance want to get the oil with these particles in it out of our engines sooner rather than later.


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## Swampassjr (Mar 25, 2012)

Can you really go 25,000 miles before an oil change on Amsoil synthetic? I dont think i could even go 15k miles with piece of mind


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Swampassjr said:


> Can you really go 25,000 miles before an oil change on Amsoil synthetic? I dont think i could even go 15k miles with piece of mind


If you get the oil tested and the analysis shows that the oil is fit for further use, sure, but who's going to spend the money on the tests just to find out?



Beaker said:


> They do not suggest it nor advise against it. It is just a peace of mind type thing. During break-in, engines shed small metal particles. So those of us who are more proactive on our vehicles maintenance want to get the oil with these particles in it out of our engines sooner rather than later.


Isn't that what oil filters are for?


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

You think the drain plug is small on the 1.4. On the 1.8 it is a Torx fitting T45 on top of that! I wonder if I could change to a regular bolt? Seems odd. 



smorey78 said:


> at 600 miles did first oil change. Using AMSoil 5w-30xl and wix filter. Must say a little taken back...oil plug is only 10mm. must be the smallest i have ever come by and the filter was a pain to get out as it hit the side of the coolant hose clamp! seem to be a 24mm not the old ecotec scoket. But none the less got it all done! car runs grate!


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Beaker said:


> Yes I know where the oil filter is. As I said. When they were removing the oil filter or refilling the oil, they must have dripped oil onto the turbo. It just being on the block wouldn't be hot enough for it to ignite. It would just smoke and burn off.


I got sloppy a couple of times adding oil to my old '02 Impala with the 3.8, and as the oil dripped down the front and got to the top of the block at the head, it actually caught fire. Two different times, at least. I just leaned over and blew it out. It can happen.


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## crystal red cruze (Apr 11, 2011)

The Cannister Oil Filter sucks in my opinion. Why did they change what has worked for over thirty years? The spin on Oil Filter on the bottom of the engine. The first oil filters were Cannister Oil Filters & on many engines were on top of the engine. Quess what they leaked & started fires! What next save weight by eliminating starter motors? We can crank the engine to start it by hand & break our arms. Maybe go back to drum brakes to save money!


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

crystal red cruze said:


> The Cannister Oil Filter sucks in my opinion. Why did they change what has worked for over thirty years? The spin on Oil Filter on the bottom of the engine. The first oil filters were Cannister Oil Filters & on many engines were on top of the engine. Quess what they leaked & started fires! What next save weight by eliminating starter motors? We can crank the engine to start it by hand & break our arms. Maybe go back to drum brakes to save money!


I'm not very fond of the cannister set up myself. I spoke with Mark in the parts department of my local Chevy dealership. Mark told me that the cannister set up on these engines is Saab technology. Be it true or not when it comes down to it I'd rather have the screw on filter set up. It was a pain in the ass on my 1985 Mercedes 300D and I don't like it here either.

Sent from my DROID3 using AutoGuide.Com Free App


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## mcg75 (Mar 5, 2012)

I love the canister filter idea. When you have a spin on filter, you can't see the media which lets the filter company cheap out as much as possible. On the cartridge setup, you can see everything.


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## Beaker (Mar 21, 2012)

I don't mind the cartridge filter I just think its ridiculous they cost the same or more than traditional screw on filters. And at least when I had my Cobalt, every time there was an oil and filter deal at the local parts store, the filters for my car never qualified. -.-


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I have had the cannister filter since my 02 Alero 2.2 ecotec. when I bought the Alero, I was looking for the typical PF47 until I took it someplace to changed. and they showed me it was on the top of the engine(kinda looks like a water outlet for the top radiator hose. I was surprized they changed the cannister on the cruze(long and skinny) to be different from the 2.2 filter(short and fat). My wifes Malibu has the 2.2 and I could stock up on filters for both cars. Now I have to "locate" one for mine and go anywhere for hers. I have no problems with the cannister saves the residual oil left in the filter from dripping on you and trying to access the akward places they seem to place spin ons. Just need huge wrenches now for the caps! Different sizes between the cruze and th 2.2 18 mm 1.5 inch Go figure!!!! Reason to go to dealer! NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




what has worked for over thirty years? The spin on Oil Filter on the bottom of the engine. The first oil filters were Cannister Oil Filters & on many engines were on top of the engine. Quess what they leaked & started fires! What next save weight by eliminating starter motors? We can crank the engine to start it by hand & break our arms. Maybe go back to drum brakes to save money![/QUOTE]


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## OLD SFG GUY (Mar 27, 2012)

Swampassjr said:


> Can you really go 25,000 miles before an oil change on Amsoil synthetic? I dont think i could even go 15k miles with piece of mind


Yes, but like Ex Rev said, You have to do samples. I've been an Amsoil dealer for a number of years. I don't push it so I'm not a big dealer. I just support the diesel & motorcycle crowd.

But, an oil sample will give you alot of important info about what your engine is doing, internally.

Now, in the case that Extreme said, who's going to spend the money. Blackstone labs is very cheap, very accurate and even ships the bottles for free with all the necessary documentaion and shipping packaging.

Also, in the case of "why" would anyone go 25k+. I won't worry about it in the Cruze since it only holds a few qts and I keep 5w30 in the trailer. Now, in the case that my truck holds 2 1/2 gal that costs $95, my cost, or a Ford guy that holds 15 qts and the trucks "work", it's nice to know that the internals are holding up.

On my last Duramax, I had over 32k miles on one change and the oil still came back at 86% stability. Then it blew a headgasket from too much boost. So it got traded in. I do samples every 8,000 miles and so far I have done one sample on my dually and it was great. Another is going in about 3 weeks or so. That will make about 15k on this so far. This truck doesn't see much mileage but the miles it does see is usually hauling something heavy. It's my DD but is only a few miles to work everyday.

BTW, my truck is an 06 that I got with 45k miles on it. The original owner traded it in afterthe 5 yr warranty ran out. I can view that all his changes were done every 8k miles at a dealership using Delvac. So I know it's been well taken care of.


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## Beaker (Mar 21, 2012)

Yeah I only became a dealer to buy for me, my family, friends, and coworkers who want it. Not as a supplement to my income.

I trust Amsoil to make a good product, but for my peace of mind, I'd never go that long without an oil change. If your car is seeing nothing but highway miles, the longest I'd be comfortable going is 10k miles. But at $40 for an oil change even with Amsoil, 5k miles is fine with me. I'm just too ingrained in the old school mentality I guess.


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## oldman2 (May 16, 2011)

Dealer did my first oil change because it was free. When I got car back and checked the oil it was one inch above full mark. Took it back and had the service manager check it and he said it was over full but that didn't hurt a thing and I should leave it alone. I told him I paid for a good job and wanted it fixed. He took the car back and said he fixed the problem but when I checked it again it was better but still overfull, about 3/4 quart. It looks to me that they are putting five quarts in the car instead of 4.2. I drained out the excess oil myself and will never take the car back to the dealer.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I was going to buy Amsoil for my Cruze, but it came out to something like $11.50 a quart including shipping, so I passed. 

I'll probably choose a full synthetic by either Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Mobil 1 and stick to it for the life of the car.


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## brianguy1979 (Jun 17, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I was going to buy Amsoil for my Cruze, but it came out to something like $11.50 a quart including shipping, so I passed.
> 
> I'll probably choose a full synthetic by either Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Mobil 1 and stick to it for the life of the car.



Well, you can still use Amsoil, just don't by the top of the line 25K stuff. It is barley over $6 a quart, Dexos approved and is the quality Amsoil stuff! :yahoo:

AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil and Engine Oil


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## Big Grouch (Apr 16, 2012)

What do I need to remove the filter? Just got my car three days ago and didn't pay attention to how the filter comes off. I will be changing the oil at 1000 miles, after that by the oil life monitor, with full synthetic.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

I can only address the 1.4T. You will need a 24mm socket to remove and tighten the filter cartridge housing.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

brianguy1979 said:


> Well, you can still use Amsoil, just don't by the top of the line 25K stuff. It is barley over $6 a quart, Dexos approved and is the quality Amsoil stuff! :yahoo:
> 
> AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil and Engine Oil


The problem with that is that when you include the price of shipping, I'm almost better off just buying Royal Purple locally.


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## Henry (Aug 9, 2012)

Hi all
There are a lot of rumors and bits of misinformation about oil change intervals. Some say that your car’s oil needs to be changed every 3,000 miles, no exceptions, while others insist that newer cars need not have their oil changed any sooner than 7,500 miles. The answer is that either of these figures could be right for your vehicle.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

The owners manual says to change the oil once a year or follow the oil life monitor, which ever comes first. It also states under severe conditions to change every 7500 miles. 

With the dealer fill oil I would change about 6,000miles at most. full synthetic 8,000-10,000miles(obviously if the OLM indicates lower I would change it). I would not take the OLM below 25-30% before I changed the oil either.


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