# Changed oil to Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30



## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Jorday said:


> I changed my oil and filter over the weekend with about 6800 miles on the car. Had GM dexos 2 oil in it. It's too soon to tell since it's only been a few trips to work, but I suspect the car is getting just a bit better mileage with this oil. Within 3 days of changing my oil I broke my 25 and 50 mile mileage records on my DIC. This apparent improvement appears to be most noticeable during engine warmup. It comes in liters instead of quarts so make sure not to overfill. It isn't cheap, and it wasn't super easy to find a store that had it in stock. After a few weeks I'll know for sure how much it's helping mileage over the GM oil, if any. Stay tuned.


Im on my 2nd EP change now. Since you have quite some time till the next change, search for deals online and local. 


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## chevycruze2012 (Nov 13, 2012)

Mobil is a good oil. I noticed that the oil is much cleaner when its drained using the mobil 1 dexos blend. Plus, in ur first oil change, you will be able to see engine shavings from the first new miles on the car. This is the break in period. Mobil 1 is a 15000 mile oil if you get the gold label. I calculated that i could go atleast 11000-12000 miles on a single oil change with the mobil 1 5w-30 dexos gold label. GOOD STUFF=]


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Mobil 1 extended performance is good stuff - I have used it for years in my cars.

Oil color is a useless indication of oil life. Oil suspends particulates that turn it dark - if your oil is staying cleanish for 5000+ miles, it's not cleaning much as it goes around. 

Nonetheless, I wouldn't run it anywhere near a full 15k. I sent in a sample from the Cruze at 8000 mi and the analysis reported that it would be good for another 1000-1500 mi. 

Keep in mind that any mileage improvements you're seeing are likely a result of the engine itself breaking in rather than the oil type. The Cruze engines do not get amazing MPG right off the dealer lot, most take a few thousand miles to really start shining. 


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

Agree on the oil color...especially in a diesel. It's black again from soot almost as soon as you change the oil. I know the car should show some gains in mileage as the motor breaks in fully. I hear the diesel version can take a couple of years of driving for most people before the rings are fully seated in that engine. What I noticed the past couple of days seemed to be all of a sudden changes. We shall see.


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## blackbowtie (Jul 4, 2013)

All I have run for the last 6 years is Mobil 1 in almost every engine I own (minus lawn care). 

Certain people on here like to pronounce their love of different types of lube. Different strokes for different folks.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Jorday said:


> I changed my oil and filter over the weekend with about 6800 miles on the car. Had GM dexos 2 oil in it.


Is there some reason you put a Dexos1 oil in it? I thought GM diesels all required Dexos2 (maybe I'm wrong)? M1 5W-30 EP is only a Dexos1 oil:

5W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ Extended Performance 5W-30



Jorday said:


> This apparent improvement appears to be most noticeable during engine warmup.


If the factory fill Dexos2 has a really low Viscosity Index compared to the M1 5W-30 EP at 169, then the new oil will likely be thinner on startup and flow much easier. This should lead to a mileage improvement, but the difference would be so small you'd need a lab to measure it. Data Sheet:

Mobil 1™ Extended Performance


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

good choice on oil - I would be careful going over 10,000. If it doesn't really buy much in time it isn't worth it pushing the oil life.


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

gm d


Blue Angel said:


> Is there some reason you put a Dexos1 oil in it? I thought GM diesels all required Dexos2 (maybe I'm wrong)? M1 5W-30 EP is only a Dexos1 oil:
> 
> 5W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ Extended Performance 5W-30
> 
> ...


Mobil 1 ESP = emission system protection. 

5W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ ESP Formula 5W-30

It's for Diesel cars with DPFs. Not officially dexos2, but adequate for this car. The 5W-40 versin of the same oil is actually dexos2 officially. Mobil already has several other 5w30 that are dexos2, maybe that's why they didn't bother licensing the ESP 5W 30. 



jsusanka said:


> good choice on oil - I would be careful going over 10,000. If it doesn't really buy much in time it isn't worth it pushing the oil life.


 I will be changing it according to the oil life monitor.


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## GotDiesel? (Sep 9, 2013)

Glad to see some one Use the M1 as well. I have the 5w-40 ESP in my car .


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Jorday said:


> Mobil 1 ESP = emission system protection.
> 
> It's for Diesel cars with DPFs. Not officially dexos2, but adequate for this car. The 5W-40 versin of the same oil is actually dexos2 officially. Mobil already has several other 5w30 that are dexos2, maybe that's why they didn't bother licensing the ESP 5W 30.


AHA! Please disregard my comments! I read through all the posts and everyone was assuming it was Extended Performance you were using, and I did the same... sorry!


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Jorday said:


> 5W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ ESP Formula 5W-30
> 
> I changed my oil and filter over the weekend with about 6800 miles on the car. Had GM dexos 2 oil in it. It's too soon to tell since it's only been a few trips to work, but I suspect the car is getting just a bit better mileage with this oil. Within 3 days of changing my oil I broke my 25 and 50 mile mileage records on my DIC. This apparent improvement appears to be most noticeable during engine warmup. It comes in liters instead of quarts so make sure not to overfill. It isn't cheap, and it wasn't super easy to find a store that had it in stock. After a few weeks I'll know for sure how much it's helping mileage over the GM oil, if any. Stay tuned.


Jorday,

Did you change it yourself? If so, was there anything special you had to do in terms of getting to the filter? I don't have a lift, only ramps and am about to tackle this job for the first time myself. Do I need a 34mm socket? Anything else to prepare for?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Jorday said:


> 5W-30 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ ESP Formula 5W-30
> 
> I changed my oil and filter over the weekend with about 6800 miles on the car. Had GM dexos 2 oil in it. It's too soon to tell since it's only been a few trips to work, but I suspect the car is getting just a bit better mileage with this oil. Within 3 days of changing my oil I broke my 25 and 50 mile mileage records on my DIC. This apparent improvement appears to be most noticeable during engine warmup. It comes in liters instead of quarts so make sure not to overfill. It isn't cheap, and it wasn't super easy to find a store that had it in stock. After a few weeks I'll know for sure how much it's helping mileage over the GM oil, if any. Stay tuned.


Jorday,

Did you change it yourself? If so, was there anything special you had to do in terms of getting to the filter? I don't have a lift, only ramps and am about to tackle this job for the first time myself. Do I need a 34mm socket? Anything else to prepare for?


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## Nellie (Oct 27, 2013)

not u huge fan of mobil 1
im partial to AMSOIL
castrol, QS are good as well.

different strokes for different folks!!


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

diesel said:


> Jorday,
> 
> Did you change it yourself? If so, was there anything special you had to do in terms of getting to the filter? I don't have a lift, only ramps and am about to tackle this job for the first time myself. Do I need a 34mm socket? Anything else to prepare for?


Yeah, I changed the oil myself. It was fairly straightforward. I only have ramps as well. The oil pan drainplug has holes in the sides so it only needs to be unscrewed a few turns but not completely removed. You need a large socket for the oil filter, but you can reach it easly from under the hood. It has a little drain chute to catch the oil that drains from the filter, and it drips from there through a hole in the underbody plastic shroud. One thing...if the car is at too much of an angle on the ramps, the oil doesn't drain through the hole and drips all over the plastic piece and winds up all over the driveway.


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

I'm on my first oil change running the M1 ESP 5W-30. I can't say I notice much difference, but the peace of mind running a full synthetic oil, versus a blend on a car with an oil cooled turbo is why I switched. I too will be going off my DIC for oil change intervals. My first change happened at 6600 miles (with 11% remaining on the DIC). I'm at almost 8800 miles now (2200 since the last change) and the DIC is indicating 72% oil life. This oil is pretty pricy, but as someone above posted, with the fair amount of time between oil changes, someone is always offering a deal. I got 10 liters from PepBoys for $99. I can handle that.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Jorday said:


> Yeah, I changed the oil myself. It was fairly straightforward. I only have ramps as well. The oil pan drainplug has holes in the sides so it only needs to be unscrewed a few turns but not completely removed. You need a large socket for the oil filter, but you can reach it easly from under the hood. It has a little drain chute to catch the oil that drains from the filter, and it drips from there through a hole in the underbody plastic shroud. One thing...if the car is at too much of an angle on the ramps, the oil doesn't drain through the hole and drips all over the plastic piece and winds up all over the driveway.


Thanks, that's very helpful. So you didn't take any panels off the bottom of the car?


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

diesel said:


> Thanks, that's very helpful. So you didn't take any panels off the bottom of the car?


Nope. Looks like they actually put some thought into making it so you could change it without removing anything but the drain plug, oil filter and the oil fill cap.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Jorday said:


> ...if the car is at too much of an angle on the ramps, the oil doesn't drain through the hole and drips all over the plastic piece and winds up all over the driveway.


Careful here... a similar condition on the Gas Cruze caused a recall due to oil buildup on the underbelly shield causing fires. If any oil gets on top of that shield I would be diligent in making sure it's cleaned up.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Jorday said:


> Yeah, I changed the oil myself. It was fairly straightforward. I only have ramps as well. The oil pan drainplug has holes in the sides so it only needs to be unscrewed a few turns but not completely removed. You need a large socket for the oil filter, but you can reach it easly from under the hood. It has a little drain chute to catch the oil that drains from the filter, and it drips from there through a hole in the underbody plastic shroud. One thing...if the car is at too much of an angle on the ramps, the oil doesn't drain through the hole and drips all over the plastic piece and winds up all over the driveway.


Thanks for the info! I'm doing mine this weekend. I was able to get my hands on some GM Dexos2 Certified Motul 8100 X-Clean 5W-40. I was able to get it locally, and it was available on Amazon as well. I'll see what this used oil analysis looks like and then be going with AMSoil 5W-40 European car next. I'd be willing to bet it provides similarly excellent results. I'm just going to use 4 jack stands and get the car level so I can get under and remove the panel (10mm I think?) to drain the fuel filter at the same time.


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## Hack (Jul 10, 2013)

Got mine changed for the first time yesterday. Got the Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. $43 with filter. 

Added a magnetic drain plug while I was at it. 

I was planning on running this oil for 10k miles

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## ParisTNDude (Oct 7, 2013)

It looks like most of you are not taking advantage of the GM free maintenance offer. How come?


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## ParisTNDude (Oct 7, 2013)

It looks like most of you are not taking the free maintenance for 2 years on your Cruze. Why not?


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

Blue Angel said:


> Careful here... a similar condition on the Gas Cruze caused a recall due to oil buildup on the underbelly shield causing fires. If any oil gets on top of that shield I would be diligent in making sure it's cleaned up.


Yep, definitely made sure to clean ALL the oil off everything for that reason. Used about a half a roll of paper towel. I had an awesome streak going of oil changes without spilling any oil, too. 


KpaxFAQ said:


> Thanks for the info! I'm doing mine this weekend. I was able to get my hands on some GM Dexos2 Certified Motul 8100 X-Clean 5W-40. I was able to get it locally, and it was available on Amazon as well. I'll see what this used oil analysis looks like and then be going with AMSoil 5W-40 European car next. I'd be willing to bet it provides similarly excellent results. I'm just going to use 4 jack stands and get the car level so I can get under and remove the panel (10mm I think?) to drain the fuel filter at the same time.


Yeah, it would have been easier to find 5w-40, it's harder to find 5w-30.


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

ParisTNDude said:


> It looks like most of you are not taking the free maintenance for 2 years on your Cruze. Why not?


Basically because to me it isn't worth risking letting the dealership touch my stuff for something that costs less than a couple hundred dollars after some of my previous dealership experiences. I STRONGLY suspect they were joyriding on my 2006 Z06 a few years back when the alternator went bad, after which they told me the alternator was ok. I ended up buying an alternator myself and replacing it since there wasn't even a question that there was a problem with it. I opened up my hood and it was sparking everywhere...guess that's normal to them. The final straw was last year when I found new Sierra 3500 to be leaking coolant. While the truck was there I asked them to straighten the front bumper out since it was just a little bit off center from when the truck was built. They to just go ahead and wait and it would be done soon. I said are you sure because the radiator is the problem, and it's going to need a new one. You can really do this while I wait? They said no it wasn't the radiator and it would be done shortly. I sat there all afternoon and after I wasted half my day there they came out and said that it did need a radiator and wouldn't be done for four days. You can imagine my frustration since I told them what the problem was and they argued me about it. Anyways, I picked up the truck a few days later to find the following problems. The air intake on the engine had bee ripped out carelessly and had scratches and gouges all over it. The emissions sticker had a gash that actually ripped the sticker completely in half it was so deep. The front bumper had footprints all over it because their method for straightening it out was to loosen the bolts slightly and kick the **** out of it. There were muddy footprints all over the carpet in the driver's seat. And to save the best for last, they had dropped the truck off the vehicle hoist. This resulted in the truck falling on the hoist arm which DENTED THE FRAME and bent the rocker panel up which screwed up the front fender to front door gap. They weren't even going to tell me about the damage to the truck, and when I asked what the **** happened they told me it was already like that and probably happened at the factor or during transport. The truck was only a few days old at this time. After asking the body shop manager what did they think was acceptable about kicking my 60k truck to adjust the bumper I made them clean the bumper and the inside of the truck. The service manager tried to tell me that the scratches under the hood on the engine components were just an accident. I said one or two scratches is an accident, but 20+ gash marks everywhere under the hood of my truck was simply carelessness. When I got home I found the truck to be two gallons low on coolant since I guess they can't be expected to fill it up after changing out a radiator. Seems like filling the truck back up with coolant would have been on the list of things to do, but what do I know. I ended up getting GM customer service involved who sent me $750 just because they felt bad. The dealership agreed to fix the rocker panel, but nothing could be done about the frame. I asked GM about a replacement truck but they said it was between me and the dealer since it was their fault. I could have fought them more but it just wasn't worth it.


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## DieselMan33 (Oct 13, 2013)

Jorday said:


> Basically because to me it isn't worth risking letting the dealership touch my stuff for something that costs less than a couple hundred dollars after some of my previous dealership experiences. I STRONGLY suspect they were joyriding on my 2006 Z06 a few years back when the alternator went bad, after which they told me the alternator was ok. I ended up buying an alternator myself and replacing it since there wasn't even a question that there was a problem with it. I opened up my hood and it was sparking everywhere...guess that's normal to them. The final straw was last year when I found new Sierra 3500 to be leaking coolant. While the truck was there I asked them to straighten the front bumper out since it was just a little bit off center from when the truck was built. They to just go ahead and wait and it would be done soon. I said are you sure because the radiator is the problem, and it's going to need a new one. You can really do this while I wait? They said no it wasn't the radiator and it would be done shortly. I sat there all afternoon and after I wasted half my day there they came out and said that it did need a radiator and wouldn't be done for four days. You can imagine my frustration since I told them what the problem was and they argued me about it. Anyways, I picked up the truck a few days later to find the following problems. The air intake on the engine had bee ripped out carelessly and had scratches and gouges all over it. The emissions sticker had a gash that actually ripped the sticker completely in half it was so deep. The front bumper had footprints all over it because their method for straightening it out was to loosen the bolts slightly and kick the **** out of it. There were muddy footprints all over the carpet in the driver's seat. And to save the best for last, they had dropped the truck off the vehicle hoist. This resulted in the truck falling on the hoist arm which DENTED THE FRAME and bent the rocker panel up which screwed up the front fender to front door gap. They weren't even going to tell me about the damage to the truck, and when I asked what the **** happened they told me it was already like that and probably happened at the factor or during transport. The truck was only a few days old at this time. After asking the body shop manager what did they think was acceptable about kicking my 60k truck to adjust the bumper I made them clean the bumper and the inside of the truck. The service manager tried to tell me that the scratches under the hood on the engine components were just an accident. I said one or two scratches is an accident, but 20+ gash marks everywhere under the hood of my truck was simply carelessness. When I got home I found the truck to be two gallons low on coolant since I guess they can't be expected to fill it up after changing out a radiator. Seems like filling the truck back up with coolant would have been on the list of things to do, but what do I know. I ended up getting GM customer service involved who sent me $750 just because they felt bad. The dealership agreed to fix the rocker panel, but nothing could be done about the frame. I asked GM about a replacement truck but they said it was between me and the dealer since it was their fault. I could have fought them more but it just wasn't worth it.


Wow I can't believe you went back and bought another vehicle from them.


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

The Cruze isn't from that same dealership. It's just avoiding the chance for any of them to screw up my stuff.


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## chevycruze2012 (Nov 13, 2012)

Jorday said:


> Basically because to me it isn't worth risking letting the dealership touch my stuff for something that costs less than a couple hundred dollars after some of my previous dealership experiences. I STRONGLY suspect they were joyriding on my 2006 Z06 a few years back when the alternator went bad, after which they told me the alternator was ok. I ended up buying an alternator myself and replacing it since there wasn't even a question that there was a problem with it. I opened up my hood and it was sparking everywhere...guess that's normal to them. The final straw was last year when I found new Sierra 3500 to be leaking coolant. While the truck was there I asked them to straighten the front bumper out since it was just a little bit off center from when the truck was built. They to just go ahead and wait and it would be done soon. I said are you sure because the radiator is the problem, and it's going to need a new one. You can really do this while I wait? They said no it wasn't the radiator and it would be done shortly. I sat there all afternoon and after I wasted half my day there they came out and said that it did need a radiator and wouldn't be done for four days. You can imagine my frustration since I told them what the problem was and they argued me about it. Anyways, I picked up the truck a few days later to find the following problems. The air intake on the engine had bee ripped out carelessly and had scratches and gouges all over it. The emissions sticker had a gash that actually ripped the sticker completely in half it was so deep. The front bumper had footprints all over it because their method for straightening it out was to loosen the bolts slightly and kick the **** out of it. There were muddy footprints all over the carpet in the driver's seat. And to save the best for last, they had dropped the truck off the vehicle hoist. This resulted in the truck falling on the hoist arm which DENTED THE FRAME and bent the rocker panel up which screwed up the front fender to front door gap. They weren't even going to tell me about the damage to the truck, and when I asked what the **** happened they told me it was already like that and probably happened at the factor or during transport. The truck was only a few days old at this time. After asking the body shop manager what did they think was acceptable about kicking my 60k truck to adjust the bumper I made them clean the bumper and the inside of the truck. The service manager tried to tell me that the scratches under the hood on the engine components were just an accident. I said one or two scratches is an accident, but 20+ gash marks everywhere under the hood of my truck was simply carelessness. When I got home I found the truck to be two gallons low on coolant since I guess they can't be expected to fill it up after changing out a radiator. Seems like filling the truck back up with coolant would have been on the list of things to do, but what do I know. I ended up getting GM customer service involved who sent me $750 just because they felt bad. The dealership agreed to fix the rocker panel, but nothing could be done about the frame. I asked GM about a replacement truck but they said it was between me and the dealer since it was their fault. I could have fought them more but it just wasn't worth it.


Im not sure how long ago this was....but you do realize that even if you don't have physical proof the damage was done by them, you can still get them into some SERIOUS **** with the BBB. Treating your truck like that is unacceptable. I would be livid as ****. Im sure you were too. You gotta do something about it if you haven't already...and by that, I mean get the law involved.


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## Jorday (Jul 30, 2013)

I think it happened August 2012. I didn't mean to go on such a rant, but you can imagine how mad I was. That's why I try to avoid taking my cars to the dealership if I can help it. I especially won't take the ZR1 to the dealership for warranty work due to the time that I think they were joyriding/beating on my 07Z06. Typo there in the first post it was a 2007 not a 2006. I never actually witnessed them abusing my car so I never accused anyone of anything, but I am so sure that they were just out abusing my car that I would bet my life on it. First, they argued with me when I told them I would drive the car myself or ride along for the test drive and was told sir we need two of our people in the car to diagnose this. I'm much more sour a few years later and would never accept that as an answer now lol. Anyways, based upon the oil temperature readings in the car when they came back, I can tell you that after owning 5 C6 corvettes, there are only two things that get the oil that hot. One of them is roadracing, and the other one is ultra high speed runs. Since we weren't on the road course, that kinda narrows it down. The oil was hot enough that a single blast through the gears just up to 150 mph or something was not going to be enough to do what I was seeing. This was a single run to 190 mph or more than run from the speed limit to over 170 mph that caused this. None of my corvettes have been to a dealership since. Later, when my 2009 Z06 needed a shifter I just bought the part and changed it out myself.


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## smelly (Mar 25, 2011)

hello, I also use the Mobil 1 oil 5w30, do my own oil change , I know we can go farther with this oil, but I listen to the DIC anyway.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

smelly said:


> hello, I also use the Mobil 1 oil 5w30, do my own oil change , I know we can go farther with this oil, but I listen to the DIC anyway.


Still looking forward to seeing some used oil analyses. I have a sample bottle ready for draining the factory fill which I hope to get to tomorrow. I need to stop at the dealer and get an oil filter. (I called already and they have it in stock).


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## GotDiesel? (Sep 9, 2013)

Your Motor and Turbo will thank you in the long run using a Full Synthetic Oil. I am Running a 5w-40 Mobil 1 ESP and will post results on next oil change.


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## gt_cristian (Apr 7, 2012)

Hack said:


> Got mine changed for the first time yesterday. Got the Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. $43 with filter.
> 
> Added a magnetic drain plug while I was at it.
> 
> ...


Hack, would you please give us a part number for the magnetic drain plug? Thx!


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## ParisTNDude (Oct 7, 2013)

Where are you all buying the Mobil 1 ESP? I've been looking and haven't found it yet.


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## vwgtiglx (Jun 13, 2013)

ParisTNDude said:


> Where are you all buying the Mobil 1 ESP? I've been looking and haven't found it yet.


O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I don't know if you have one of those in your neck of the woods.


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

PepBoys too.


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