# Halp



## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

All you mechanics out there, I have a weird problem and can’t seem to get it figured out. 2017 Cruze lt rs Hatch gas, trifecta elite tune and tweaked with two datalog adventures. I’ll start driving, and after one or two pulls the ecu will cut power at 2800 RPM. Boost doesn’t drop at all (have a boost gauge). I have no boost leaks, new spark plugs gapped .025, new air filter, no cat or muffler clogs, turbo is clean and solid, intake is clean and solid, no vacuum leaks. Maybe once a week my knock sensor will randomly trip during a highway merging type acceleration and half of those times will engage limp mode. Have had car to dealer twice with knock sensor replaced and it is claimed that is not the issue. Have been banging my head against the wall trying to figure this out. Any ideas would be greatly helpful. The car will accelerate greatly until 2800 and the computer cuts power to maybe 20%, but , again, boost doesn’t drop. So confused, please help


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

You have a modified tuned Cruze and the Dealer is doing Warranty work or do you pay?


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

I flash it back to stock before bringing to dealer, they have yet to notice 


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## HatchLifeRS (Oct 3, 2017)

What gear are you doing your pulls in? Does it only happen in in 1/2 or in 3/4 as well?

What gas are you putting in this? Tier 1 gas station or blow Joe's Xtreme fuel gas stop? What octane?

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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

It’s when doing merge acceleration in third gear, using BP 93 octane 


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## HatchLifeRS (Oct 3, 2017)

Huh, that is weird. I'm going to guess that it doesn't happen when stock? That the tune is for 91?

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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

Tune is for 93 and doesn’t happen at stock 


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Have you done any data logging and sent that back over to Trifecta to see what is going on?


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

Yes, they had me datalog it tuned and stock, and sent me a new tune. It didn’t have an issue for a few days, and now is back. Data logged again after it started happening again and sent that to them, will get some response once they’re open tomorrow. Wanted to ask on here, and also asked on Cruze performance group on Facebook, maybe someone else had some idea 


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## HatchLifeRS (Oct 3, 2017)

Did this start after you put in the spark plugs?

Throwing any codes?

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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

No, it was happening before spark plugs, and before tune. Chevy replaced the knock sensor, and I tuned two days later, haven’t had much stock time driving around to see if happens while stock, but the bit I have, it hasn’t happened. I replaced spark plugs after second time back to Chevy trying to eliminate every possible cause. 


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

Code is P0325


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Scrubbydo1 said:


> Code is P0325
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


A code P0325 most likely means one or more of the following has happened: 

The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced 
There is a wiring short/fault in the knock sensor circuit 
The PCM powertrain control module is failed


Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0325

Have you done anything to compromise the wiring?

Might be the tune.


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

I didn’t touch the knock sensor. Chevy said they replaced it. I just took a scope around the back of the motor and it had the factory green dot and is full of road salt from the winter, I don’t believe they changed it. They were really weird about it. They made my steering wheel crooked, and then when I picked my car up they said they lost the sensor they took out of the car, but when they find it they’ll email me the service write up. That never happened. I brought it in again when knock code tripped, I had to clear the code that time because it was I limp mode and I couldn’t move, and was on a freeway. I’m ordering the sensor tomorrow and replacing it. There is an aftermarket NTK sensor in rockauto that looks very solid


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

I bought and replaced the knock sensor today, personally. Disconnected my negative battery for an hour to completely clear ecm. Tripped knock sensor and limp mode. It has to be the tune, just messaged trifecta support, we will see what they say 


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Doesn't happen stock....And dealer can't fix it....Hmmm. I wonder why, 

It's an issue with the tune parameters most likely. It goes into limp mode but doesn't set codes?


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

It does give cel, P0325, knock sensor circuit malfunction. It doesn’t trip the cel or go into limp mode when it is flashed stock 


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## cruzedrivermike (Jul 23, 2018)

check out ZZ performance


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

P0325 is an electrical performance code for the knock sensor. It's usually a physical failure of the sensor or the wiring. 

That said, it's still most likely something going on with the tune. But it could be a wiring fault that's only induced by the motion that the higher power of the tune can create.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

Why is this even a conversation here? It doesn't do it stock. It only does it tuned. Not rocket science folks. Parts are all good. Tune is not good. Questions now go to Trifecta.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

sailurman said:


> Why is this even a conversation here? It doesn't do it stock. It only does it tuned. Not rocket science folks. Parts are all good. Tune is not good. Questions now go to Trifecta.


Most likely yes. But the sensor was replaced multiple times so theres a chance the wires were boogered up somewhere along the line.


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

Due to how the wires are, it’s very unlikely, and I inspected them with a mirror as best as I could, they seemed alright to me


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Scrubbydo1 said:


> Due to how the wires are, it’s very unlikely, and I inspected them with a mirror as best as I could, they seemed alright to me
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You can only visually inspect a few inches of the circuit. There's more than 6ft of wire involved. You also are really unlikely to be able to see conductor broken in the insulation.

It's probably tune related, but dismissing proper diag is rarely a good plan.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

Ma v e n said:


> You can only visually inspect a few inches of the circuit. There's more than 6ft of wire involved. You also are really unlikely to be able to see conductor broken in the insulation.
> 
> It's probably tune related, but dismissing proper diag is rarely a good plan.


Still, if you pull the tune and the problem goes away.........


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

sailurman said:


> Ma v e n said:
> 
> 
> > You can only visually inspect a few inches of the circuit. There's more than 6ft of wire involved. You also are really unlikely to be able to see conductor broken in the insulation.
> ...


That only proves that an an effect of having the tune is a DTC. It doesn't prove the tune is the cause of the DTC.

That said, I have expressed more than once the most likely issue is it's the tune.
But whether the issue is actually an adjustment in the tune actively triggering this DTC, or the engines new operating parameters when tuned are the only way the DTC fails....

Or the tune itself is bad and it's a false DTC vs the DTC is legit but only fails when the engine makes more power.


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## Scrubbydo1 (Apr 24, 2019)

Tune was updated last weekend, and they had me do a “force full flash”, whatever that is. Google has not explained what force full flash is. Verbally it seems pretty plain, but it’s be nice to know technically what that means. I haven’t had a CEL since, no issues at all. 


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