# Rip Cruze Diesel due to deer



## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

What a shame…I have 2 of them, love em and getting harder to find. Hope you can get her fixed, otherwise it could be a gold mine parted out. Especially tuned


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yikes! That might very well be fixable.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

I'm initially intend to fix it, it is my work commuter. Has been very reliable rig for my 40 miles a day work commute. I'm going to start taking it apart this weekend to see what panels, brackets and stuff I'll need to order.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

Definitely in my opinion worth trying to fix.

just noticed the fur in the fender…hard hit


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## 15cruzediesel (Sep 30, 2019)

It'll buff out.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

15cruzediesel said:


> It'll buff out.


LMAO 🤣…sorry Rebooter, but that was funny


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I would not report it. Even if you have good comp insurance they will usually write it up as $4K in damages and then salvage title it. Then repairing will be very expensive with junk yard parts and DIY labor not accepted by state. Everything must be new and shop installed at shop labor rates with special inspection at end. Trying to pass the cost to the insurance company can backfire quickly and hurt you financially long term, nevermind the risk of higher rates. It usually takes a year to get an R title and it wont be eligible for ridesharing and will lose thousands in value. That damage is limited to parts that can be replaced in a weekend for under $300 if you nab a junkyard donor. It would be much worse if you hit hard enough to tweak the subframe. The strut would likely be trashed and wheel ripped off long before the subframe would be doneso. 

I'd absolutely repair it and keep rolling. I'd buy it as is in a heartbeat if you dont want to. Good luck.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Boathook36 said:


> I would not report it. Even if you have good comp insurance they will usually write it up as $4K in damages and then salvage title it. Then repairing will be very expensive with junk yard parts and DIY labor not accepted by state. Everything must be new and shop installed at shop labor rates with special inspection at end. Trying to pass the cost to the insurance company can backfire quickly and hurt you financially long term, nevermind the risk of higher rates. It usually takes a year to get an R title and it wont be eligible for ridesharing and will lose thousands in value. That damage is limited to parts that can be replaced in a weekend for under $300 if you nab a junkyard donor. It would be much worse if you hit hard enough to tweak the subframe. The strut would likely be trashed and wheel ripped off long before the subframe would be doneso.
> 
> I'd absolutely repair it and keep rolling. I'd buy it as is in a heartbeat if you dont want to. Good luck.


It is already a rebuilt titled vehicle, so I only had liability on it. I bought it in 2020 for $7500 with 53k miles on it, it now has 83k miles.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

Like boathook said, I’d buy that in a heartbeat as is, along with probably a ton of people here. If it’s just cosmetic, (probably trans cooler and other misc things too), you should patch her up if that is within your means


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Bvogt said:


> Like boathook said, I’d buy that in a heartbeat as is, along with probably a ton of people here. If it’s just cosmetic, (probably trans cooler and other misc things too), you should patch her up if that is within your means


Yes, I'm trying to source major chassis parts, I'm sure I'm gonna need lots of small parts that are damaged underneath as I start taking it apart. Check engine light came on together with service DPF system immediately after the crash.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

In the Facebook group, there'a a guy called Garret Gray, he has a ton of Cruzes and can probably help you out quite well and tell you potentially what you'd need.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

Rebooter said:


> Yes, I'm trying to source major chassis parts, I'm sure I'm gonna need lots of small parts that are damaged underneath as I start taking it apart. Check engine light came on together with service DPF system immediately after the crash.


Thought it was deleted?


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Bvogt said:


> Thought it was deleted?


No more tunes available when I got this unit. The Trifeta tune I have is using all factory hardware to give it a wee bit more oomph. Has worked well besides the turbo lag from the get go.


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

Sorry to see this, but at least you're still here. Look on www.car-part.com, might be able to find an entire front clip.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

It smashed the condenser, inter cooler and the radiator all in one helping. And off course all the small trinkets in between of plastic parts and things. I've got a hood, fender and bumper cover. But I think radiator and intercooler and condenser might be diesel specific?


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

Looks like the core support is tweaked pretty good. Whats your plan to straighten that out?


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

A cumalong and a tree on the side radiator support, replacement rad support form parts car I got parts from.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

is it just the angle, or did it even get into the heat shield. looks tweaked. hope it didnt cut cut those senson wires to the dpf


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

"Service DPF system" light came on after the deer impact.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

I have a dpf for you. 100k on it, no issues when it was removed. If it was a sensor issue, that code would come up. So, did the hit from the deer jar the internals of the dpf? Kind of doubt it, pretty solid. Must be electrical.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Bvogt said:


> is it just the angle, or did it even get into the heat shield. looks tweaked. hope it didnt cut cut those senson wires to the dpf


when i hit this, i went into limp mode, no wires were cut

dealer did some diag, and regen, and was fine after

car just doesnt like being dukes of hazzarded


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Ok, got radiator support bent back, now replace condenser, intercooler and radiator.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

_Sigh_ found radiator shroud and fan was crushed too.........only parts it shares it with is the equal rare Buick Verano 2.0 Turbo and $500 on national bakorder.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

****, boneyard or maybe oversees. Shop can’t fix the radiator huh?

Edit: 11 in stock here (rad) for $137





2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze Radiator - TYC 13471 - - PartsGeek.com


Buy 2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze Radiator TYC for a low price of $144.43 at PartsGeek. FLAT RATE SHIPPING on most TYC 13471 orders.



www.partsgeek.com





this fan assembly says it fits a ‘15 diesel. I’d double check the p/n though $161, usually $363



https://www.carparts.com/details/Chevrolet/Cruze/Replacement/Cooling_Fan_Assembly/2015/Diesel/REPC160940.html?TID=gglpla&origin=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=12013173795&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgYSTBhDKARIsAB8KukvuVJBvs-0we77OliMBtbgi9Y8dYg_ngKg0DX0lBfCjFj_SGAhsG7gaAnq4EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

That's for the 1.4 gasser, I've got one on order through Summit Racing. We will see, already have a new radiator and Intercooler from Rock Auto.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

Rebooter said:


> That's for the 1.4 gasser, I've got one on order through Summit Racing. We will see, already have a new radiator and Intercooler from Rock Auto.


That’s what caught be off guard. Says 15 2.0, but you scroll down and it fits all cruzes. Glad you found em


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

The ACDelco 1581771 (OEM part# 13338843) is in-stock on RockAuto, but it doesn't show up in the catalog for the 2014 Diesel, and I had to search for it by part number. Around $400 with shipping.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

revjpeterson said:


> The ACDelco 1581771 (OEM part# 13338843) is in-stock on RockAuto, but it doesn't show up in the catalog for the 2014 Diesel, and I had to search for it by part number. Around $400 with shipping.


That is just the fan itself, I need the WHOLE shroud in addition.









This is a whole assembly for $508


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The shroud is overrated. Id just mount the bare fan on aluminum bar stock. You'll get a code without any fan but no code or overheating as long as its there. Heck you could just set it off to the side and let it point up at the hood.

I pulled the fuse for the fan and drove the car for months in the hottest weather we get without any issue. It was August in PA so 95 degree F days with the AC blasting. Diesels don't really need a fan. The only area the gets noticeably hot is the heat from the AC system, and even then only if you're parked and idle for a very long time.

(When the fan controller fuse is pulled the ECM seems to cut the AC clutch output, so the compressor clutch was jumpered. We really hated the fan cycling on high all night right outside our bedroom window).


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Ok, got the Cruze back with all new radiators and stuff. Still some error codes to figure out on the DEF system


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Almost back together after 3 months


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Here are my two franken vehicles, truck Frank(smashed by tree) and Cruze Francesca (smashed by deer in March) I managed to clear all the DPF and DEF alarms I had after the deer crash.








.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Nice work there!


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

I like the color combination on the cruze. Looks like a police cruiser.🚔


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

I have some error codes pertaining to the grill shutters, but don't know if they are history ones or not, they got shattered in the process, I ripped out the motor and connected it hoping I would fool the cirucitry to thing they are still operating?


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Seems like the ambient temp sensor isn't connected, now to figure out where it was located. Deer smashes crap up when it hits ya.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

1.8L


Mines the panel below the driver's headlight, it plugs in from the back.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

The grille shutter motor without the actual shutters will still cause a P059F/P069E code, because the motor senses the position for open and closed shutters. I've seen 2 methods for deleting the shutters over the years. 1 involves a resistor wired in place of the actual motor. The other involves fabricating stops to attach to the motor, which imitate the position of the open and closed shutter positions.

Ambient Temp Sensor attaches to the back of the driver-side fog light bezel.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

revjpeterson said:


> The grille shutter motor without the actual shutters will still cause a P059F/P069E code, because the motor senses the position for open and closed shutters. I've seen 2 methods for deleting the shutters over the years. 1 involves a resistor wired in place of the actual motor. The other involves fabricating stops to attach to the motor, which imitate the position of the open and closed shutter positions.
> 
> Ambient Temp Sensor attaches to the back of the driver-side fog light bezel.


That's the exact codes I get. I did install the temp sensor, that was easy peasy. Found these blind passengers in one of the underneath noise insulator panels after hearing bunch of tiny tiny squeaks.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

revjpeterson said:


> The grille shutter motor without the actual shutters will still cause a P059F/P069E code, because the motor senses the position for open and closed shutters. I've seen 2 methods for deleting the shutters over the years. 1 involves a resistor wired in place of the actual motor. The other involves fabricating stops to attach to the motor, which imitate the position of the open and closed shutter positions.


My shutters had been replaced recently but the pin crushed down inside the plug. It broke as soon as I tried to straighten the pin. I then sliced open the plastic casing and wired further back with a poor connection. It worked for a few weeks and its intermittent currently. I found out that the harness was cut and shorted out above the headlight when the MAP sensor stopped working. It shares the fuse with the shutters. 

I took the motor off the shutter assembly to cut it open and it now lives up by the battery tray. I marked the open and closed positions with a sharpie line. When the car starts the shutters cycle from open to close and you can see the center spinning. If its unplugged or the fuse is broken you get the P069F "Fuel Pump Requested Illumination" code. If it is missing the hard stops it jams up and you get P059F "Active Grill Air Shutter "A" Performance/ Stuck Off". I found that giving the motor rotor a little twist with screwdriver a few degrees is enough for the code to clear and the stepper motor is happy again. If you don't hit the temperature threshold or restart the car it will stay clear. It seems to cycle without jamming up and throwing the code at least half the time. It was enough to get it through the state inspection last year. 

We just bought a second diesel Cruze so I'm looking forward to getting accurate test results before my next state inspection due in December. My hacked up unit is very fragile and flakes out often. My hunch is that a 1.5K resistor between the high voltage and the signal line will trick it into a positive condition and prevent any future codes. If anyone else has done this before I'd love to hear the details.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Well, just an update now that I've put 5k miles on since I got it back on the road again, car runs beautiful and still have all DEF systems there. Only lights I get are still related to grill shutters so not worried. Getting close to 90k miles now.


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