# 2014 Diesel Cruze Wont Start



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Powertrain warranty = I'd get it towed to your dealer.


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Have you changed the fuel filter yet?


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

The only time I had ours do that was when the fuel gelled. 

Being a diesel, there is no spark timing - so I'd be willing to bet it is fuel related. 

At 37k, this should be covered under the powertrain warranty, but obviously getting it there might be a problem, haha.


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Towing to dealer does make sense. Could also be a glow plug issue as well. Would seem if no fuel equals no start. Could be getting fuel but no electrical glow plugs, would equal no start. I think there is a glow plug module that controls the glow plugs.


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Was this shortly after a fill up and where do you buy most of your fuel, high volume truck stop or lowest price station off the beaten path?? If high volume truck stop probably not fuel issues. I ran my fuel filter to about 39K with 5% left on the DIC without any noticeable issues but most of my fuel is from high vol truck stops and I always use additives.

Washington State had temp of 53F around 8AM today so I would not expect glow plugs to be an issue. Might require extra cranking to start though if they were not working but should have started with a lot of white smoke.

If everything was normal the day before probably something simple like EGR valve stuck open due carbon or a sensor died due to infant mortality.


----------



## LiveTrash (May 24, 2015)

The only issue I ever had with mine not starting was because the EGR valve was stuck. Sometimes it would start and run for no more than a second then sound like it was getting choked out, other times it wouldn't start at all but it would always crank just fine. Mine was covered in enough soot that it was simply stuck and it was an easy fix. Although the part was replaced under warranty with an improved part.


----------



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I remember a couple people on here had issues with stuck EGR and car not starting. I'd tend to go that route rather than fuel or glow plugs, when starting to troubleshoot. Please keep us posted.


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

LiveTrash said:


> Although the part was replaced under warranty with an improved part.


How many mile on the car when you had problems and do you know what was allegedly improve about the new EGR valve?




diesel said:


> I remember a couple people on here had issues with stuck EGR and car not starting. I'd tend to go that route rather than fuel or glow plugs, when starting to troubleshoot. Please keep us posted.


I know you are the high miler around here and don't believe in cleaning your MAP sensor but have you had any issues with the EGR on your TD? Did you ever check the EGR to see the actual state the way many of us have done with the MAP sensor? Maybe another maintenance item if one wants to avoid an unpredictable no start issue at an inconvenient time? 

The EGR on my F350 6.0L PS crudes up very fast but has not cause a no start yet but has cause irregular turbo operation when extremely cold outside, maybe because I clean it on a regular basis? Thanks.


----------



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Twiztedmods said:


> My 2014 Cruze with 37K miles wont start all of a sudden. I've never had any problems with the car. Just yesterday I went out to start the car, it cranked and sounded like the timing was off and then shut off. Sometimes it just cranks and doesn't try to start at all. Car is completely stock. Any ideas?


Did you perhaps just refuel, or let a family member or friend borrow the car and they topped it off for you before returning it??? It could be a missfuel issue. Grabbing a green handle does not always equal diesel... something to check out and look into for sure...


----------



## Twiztedmods (Apr 5, 2017)

Fuel filter is new, I have about 1/4 tank of fuel left in the car. I'm about to check the EGR valve now. Thanks for all the input, very much appreciated. Almost forgot, I put a scanner on it after cranking it a few times and it pulled code P0335 - Crankshaft Positions Sensors. Anyone know where this is located?


----------



## LiveTrash (May 24, 2015)

theonlypheonix said:


> How many mile on the car when you had problems and do you know what was allegedly improve about the new EGR valve?


Around 24,500 miles. I don't know what was improved on the part. I think it's spring loaded so maybe a stronger spring so it doesn't get stuck as easily? All I was told was it was getting replaced with a revised part.


----------



## Twiztedmods (Apr 5, 2017)

Well it turned out to be a plugged EGR. I pulled it out and sure enough it was stuck open. You guys rock, thanks for helping me out. I guess the P0335 was due to excessive cranking and not starting.


----------



## Dieselfever (Feb 23, 2017)

The EGR is a nasty evil thing that has no place whatsoever on a diesel engine.


----------



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

theonlypheonix said:


> I know you are the high miler around here and don't believe in cleaning your MAP sensor but have you had any issues with the EGR on your TD? Did you ever check the EGR to see the actual state the way many of us have done with the MAP sensor? Maybe another maintenance item if one wants to avoid an unpredictable no start issue at an inconvenient time?
> 
> The EGR on my F350 6.0L PS crudes up very fast but has not cause a no start yet but has cause irregular turbo operation when extremely cold outside, maybe because I clean it on a regular basis? Thanks.


I've never had an EGR issue. I've never taken a look at it, but it's no doubt a good idea that I do, or at least locate it. I don't even know where it is. 



Twiztedmods said:


> Fuel filter is new, I have about 1/4 tank of fuel left in the car. I'm about to check the EGR valve now. Thanks for all the input, very much appreciated. Almost forgot, I put a scanner on it after cranking it a few times and it pulled code P0335 - Crankshaft Positions Sensors. Anyone know where this is located?





Twiztedmods said:


> Well it turned out to be a plugged EGR. I pulled it out and sure enough it was stuck open. You guys rock, thanks for helping me out. I guess the P0335 was due to excessive cranking and not starting.


Great to hear you isolated the problem with our help! Did you clean it, or replace it? Did the car start afterwards?


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

diesel said:


> I've never had an EGR issue. I've never taken a look at it, but it's no doubt a good idea that I do, or at least locate it. I don't even know where it is.
> 
> Great to hear you isolated the problem with our help! Did you clean it, or replace it? Did the car start afterwards?


Hope this solves the OP problem, appear relatively cheap from Rock $117+ change.


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

diesel said:


> I've never had an EGR issue. I've never taken a look at it, but it's no doubt a good idea that I do, or at least locate it. I don't even know where it is.
> 
> Great to hear you isolated the problem with our help! Did you clean it, or replace it? Did the car start afterwards?


Hope this solves the OP problem, appear relatively cheap from Rock $117+ change. If we could get final results from the OP?
Note the the plate (item 20) in diagram is recommented to be replaced at same time. Is that a gasket??

View attachment 226346
View attachment 226354


----------



## Twiztedmods (Apr 5, 2017)

I just cleaned the EGR, I soaked it in diesel and used an acid brush to get into the hard to reach areas. After it was cleaned I reinstalled it and the car fired up without any issue at all. Everything seems to be back to normal. I can't believe that it was gunked up so bad with only having 37,000 miles on the odometer. I just might have to look into an EGR delete. I foresee this happening again.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Now that you've fixed it, see if the dealer will replace it under warranty with the new part, since it'll definitely do that again, it sounds like.


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Twiztedmods said:


> I just cleaned the EGR, I soaked it in diesel and used an acid brush to get into the hard to reach areas. After it was cleaned I reinstalled it and the car fired up without any issue at all. Everything seems to be back to normal. I can't believe that it was gunked up so bad with only having 37,000 miles on the odometer. I just might have to look into an EGR delete. I foresee this happening again.


From a historical maintenance perspective I'm kind of interested in the data on your vehicle i.e. do you drive mostly city or high way miles and about what % city vs hwy, do you buy diesel mostly from high vol truck stops, do you use any diesel fuel additives?

Just wondering whether its the city drivers that are having the most problems with the EGR? My driving is mostly hwy at 60-70 mph at a rate of 120 miles a 
day due to work, with only a few local miles on weekends. No problems yet with the EGR and there is 57K miles on the clock. Trying to decide whether I should pull the EGR and clean so that I maintain my goal of the car being available 100% of the time 24/7 with out any unplanned down time except for scheduled "routine" maintenance.

Would consider a short posting of the steps involved for pulling the EGR and any before and after pictures you might have of the cleaning?


----------



## JRB'sOilburningCruze (Feb 25, 2015)

theonlypheonix said:


> From a historical maintenance perspective I'm kind of interested in the data on your vehicle i.e. do you drive mostly city or high way miles and about what % city vs hwy, do you buy diesel mostly from high vol truck stops, do you use any diesel fuel additives?
> 
> Just wondering whether its the city drivers that are having the most problems with the EGR? My driving is mostly hwy at 60-70 mph at a rate of 120 miles a
> day due to work, with only a few local miles on weekends. No problems yet with the EGR and there is 57K miles on the clock. Trying to decide whether I should pull the EGR and clean so that I maintain my goal of the car being available 100% of the time 24/7 with out any unplanned down time except for scheduled "routine" maintenance.
> ...


I was going to pull mine off and clean, I have 55K on the car now. But, as part of GM's efforts to fix the problems of the P11DC due to the screwed up recall efforts, they put a brand new EGR valve on. 

It could not hurt it to pull it off and give it a good cleaning.


----------



## Twiztedmods (Apr 5, 2017)

theonlypheonix said:


> From a historical maintenance perspective I'm kind of interested in the data on your vehicle i.e. do you drive mostly city or high way miles and about what % city vs hwy, do you buy diesel mostly from high vol truck stops, do you use any diesel fuel additives?
> 
> Just wondering whether its the city drivers that are having the most problems with the EGR? My driving is mostly hwy at 60-70 mph at a rate of 120 miles a
> day due to work, with only a few local miles on weekends. No problems yet with the EGR and there is 57K miles on the clock. Trying to decide whether I should pull the EGR and clean so that I maintain my goal of the car being available 100% of the time 24/7 with out any unplanned down time except for scheduled "routine" maintenance.
> ...


The wife drives it 90% of the time. Every couple months we take a 400 mile trip to visit family down in Oregon, when I drive I average about 75-80 MPH on the interstate, on the highway it's usually 65 MPH. Besides that the rest of the time the car is driven mostly in the small town we live in. Once in a while we drive it to the next town to do our larger grocery shopping and that's probably about 30 miles or so at the most.

I did take pics of the EGR while it was all plugged up, I don't think I have the permissions to post pics because I'm not a paying member at this time. I didn't take any after I cleaned it, I was in a hurry to get it installed to see if that was truly the problem. 

As far as pulling the EGR valve, all I did was remove the plastic cover on top of the motor and removed the two T-30 Torx bits that bolt it in, there was a bracket that held a small hard line that caught the ear of the EGR so I removed the two 10mm bolts and it allowed for enough clearance to pull the EGR out of its home. The EGR is located on the back side of the engine, basically if you were to look at your firewall and notice the heater core lines going into the cab, it would be directly across from that on the Engine side (hope that makes sense).

Here is a link to the pic of that EGR. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...9/6405680710559721346?authkey=CMy8s7_x_8q_mgE Hope it works...


----------



## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Yep had the EGR bite me at 50000 miles, have 149000 and no trouble since replaced


----------



## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Interesting. I drove my 09 Jetta TDI 183,000 miles with no EGR problem. First CEL on the VW was at 175,000 miles and that was a Differential Pressure Switch @$500. That along with the Buyback offer prompted me to make the leap to Chevy. Despite a water pump failure and lack of spare, I LOVE the Cruze much better than the TDI.

I'm brand new to the Cruze and this forum, all the discussion in this thread and others about the Cruze EGR makes me wonder if Cleaning The EGR should be a maintenance item, like every 50K miles or so? I'm no mechanic and realize comparing the Chevy to the VW is apples to oranges. My Cruze has 64,000 miles and I'm considering pulling/cleaning EGR just to avoid the "non-start" condition at an inconvenient time...has anyone else gone that route and what did you find? Any recommendations AGAINST taking this action? Thanks!


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Rivergoer said:


> Interesting. I drove my 09 Jetta TDI 183,000 miles with no EGR problem. First CEL on the VW was at 175,000 miles and that was a Differential Pressure Switch @$500. That along with the Buyback offer prompted me to make the leap to Chevy. Despite a water pump failure and lack of spare, I LOVE the Cruze much better than the TDI.
> 
> I'm brand new to the Cruze and this forum, all the discussion in this thread and others about the Cruze EGR makes me wonder if Cleaning The EGR should be a maintenance item, like every 50K miles or so? I'm no mechanic and realize comparing the Chevy to the VW is apples to oranges. My Cruze has 64,000 miles and I'm considering pulling/cleaning EGR just to avoid the "non-start" condition at an inconvenient time...has anyone else gone that route and what did you find? Any recommendations AGAINST taking this action? Thanks!


I think have been others that have cleaned the EGR , I don't see a major problem with that. Mine has 26k miles and I haven't had any issues. I at least once a week drive it pretty hard after warmed up.


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Twiztedmods said:


> The wife drives it 90% of the time. Every couple months we take a 400 mile trip to visit family down in Oregon, when I drive I average about 75-80 MPH on the interstate, on the highway it's usually 65 MPH. Besides that the rest of the time the car is driven mostly in the small town we live in. Once in a while we drive it to the next town to do our larger grocery shopping and that's probably about 30 miles or so at the most.
> 
> I did take pics of the EGR while it was all plugged up, I don't think I have the permissions to post pics because I'm not a paying member at this time. I didn't take any after I cleaned it, I was in a hurry to get it installed to see if that was truly the problem.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info, I'm beginning to conclude that city driving is more prone to EGR clogging then primarily hwy driving base on info posted to this forum? Did you by any chance look at the EGR cooler while you were in the same area?

A while back I read in Diesel World 12/2016 the VW TDI's were clogging by 200K miles, clogged EGR, EGR cooler and intake. They had a complete article with photos on cleaning and the corresponding improvement in performance after cleaning, so much for our so called "CLEAN" diesels!

More recently in 8 LUG HD Truck 3/2017 there was an article about recommended cleaners for EGR coolers, intakes and EGR valves. Out of 5 cleaners tried the top two were Clean-Rite Purple Power and Piston Clean. Among the others included Simple Green ALL PURPOSE , NAPA MACS 6402 Carburetor Cleaner, Mopar EGR System Cleaner. Not sure i would use Purple Power on an EGR that had electronics unless used very carefully.


----------



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I would imagine it'd be a good idea for me to pull mine off and take a look. I'm sure it's not pristine at 202K miles.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I honestly wouldn't touch it, lest doing so _causes_ a problem.


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

diesel said:


> I would imagine it'd be a good idea for me to pull mine off and take a look. I'm sure it's not pristine at 202K miles.


At the worst, you could just replace it as a precaution if it looks nasty and doesn't clean up, it sounds like it can obviously cause a no start situation which might not be fun several hundred miles from home.


----------



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Rivergoer said:


> Interesting. I drove my 09 Jetta TDI 183,000 miles with no EGR problem. First CEL on the VW was at 175,000 miles and that was a Differential Pressure Switch @$500. That along with the Buyback offer prompted me to make the leap to Chevy. Despite a water pump failure and lack of spare, I LOVE the Cruze much better than the TDI.
> 
> I'm brand new to the Cruze and this forum, all the discussion in this thread and others about the Cruze EGR makes me wonder if Cleaning The EGR should be a maintenance item, like every 50K miles or so? I'm no mechanic and realize comparing the Chevy to the VW is apples to oranges. My Cruze has 64,000 miles and I'm considering pulling/cleaning EGR just to avoid the "non-start" condition at an inconvenient time...has anyone else gone that route and what did you find? Any recommendations AGAINST taking this action? Thanks!


I would think that the TDI going longer without EGR clogging than other manufacturers would be a byproduct of their emissions cheating that allowed the cars to run a little dirtier almost all the time so the emission system was not doing as much work... If they left the EGR valve closed more than typically required or expected with an emissions equipped diesel it could go significantly longer before cleaning or replacement.


----------



## beaurrr (Aug 27, 2016)

theonlypheonix said:


> Thanks for the info, I'm beginning to conclude that city driving is more prone to EGR clogging then primarily hwy driving base on info posted to this forum? Did you by any chance look at the EGR cooler while you were in the same area?
> 
> A while back I read in Diesel World 12/2016 the VW TDI's were clogging by 200K miles, clogged EGR, EGR cooler and intake. They had a complete article with photos on cleaning and the corresponding improvement in performance after cleaning, so much for our so called "CLEAN" diesels!
> 
> More recently in 8 LUG HD Truck 3/2017 there was an article about recommended cleaners for EGR coolers, intakes and EGR valves. Out of 5 cleaners tried the top two were Clean-Rite Purple Power and Piston Clean. Among the others included Simple Green ALL PURPOSE , NAPA MACS 6402 Carburetor Cleaner, Mopar EGR System Cleaner. Not sure i would use Purple Power on an EGR that had electronics unless used very carefully.


As to which solvent...
The various "purple" degreasers are exceedingly effective but will damage aluminum some other non-ferrous metals because they contain sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient. The EGR body looks to be made of aluminum, so I would avoid that stuff.
Aerosol brake cleaners (both chlorinated and non-chlorinated) should do the job with a little scrubbing, and they won't damage soft metals.


----------



## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

beaurrr said:


> The various "purple" degreasers are exceedingly effective but will damage aluminum some other non-ferrous metals because they contain sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient... Aerosol brake cleaners (both chlorinated and non-chlorinated) should do the job with a little scrubbing, and they won't damage soft metals.


-
I'm not sure I mentioned "various" types of "Purple" degreasers, :idisagree: but only one type "Purple Power Cleaner/Degreaser" which I cite from 8 LUG HD Truck-3/2017 magazine which they found effective in cleaning various diesel exhaust components.:goodjob: Looking at the Purple label I only saw that it contains diethylene glycol monobutyl ether and surfactants which from my school chemistry class is enough to let me know I need to wear a protective covering when using/handling this stuff, which their label recommends also.:eek7: Surfactants can be used with sodium hydroxide but I saw nothing that would indicate Purple contained sodium hydroxide which is normally associated with sink drain cleaners. I also would not recommend using drain cleaner for cleaning EGR components







. But the label did also mention to check surfaces before using. I'm not a chemist nor do I recommend any cleaner for any cleaning purpose or for cleaning any components in any application. 

Note, like all magazines, they write article such as these to sell their magazines.:signs053::eek7:

I also have used brake cleaner for cleaning sensitive electronic diesel MAP sensors to some what more or less effective degree but which I found not effective for cleaning the EGR valve on my '05 Ford 6.0L PS. Sure I could scrape the valve with a Dremel grinder and use no cleaner at all! :llsweatdrop::wtf::banghead:

I just relayed an article I read in a respected diesel magazine which the reader can decide for themselves as to the relevance for any cleaning project they may want to engage in and to determine any relevance and veracity of the article to the cleaning job at bar. ccasion14:


----------



## TurboDieselCruze2014 (Jan 23, 2020)

Twiztedmods said:


> Fuel filter is new, I have about 1/4 tank of fuel left in the car. I'm about to check the EGR valve now. Thanks for all the input, very much appreciated. Almost forgot, I put a scanner on it after cranking it a few times and it pulled code P0335 - Crankshaft Positions Sensors. Anyone know where this is located?


What did it end up being after checking EGR?


----------



## ewyborny (Jul 25, 2019)

theonlypheonix said:


> Was this shortly after a fill up and where do you buy most of your fuel, high volume truck stop or lowest price station off the beaten path?? If high volume truck stop probably not fuel issues. I ran my fuel filter to about 39K with 5% left on the DIC without any noticeable issues but most of my fuel is from high vol truck stops and I always use additives.
> 
> Washington State had temp of 53F around 8AM today so I would not expect glow plugs to be an issue. Might require extra cranking to start though if they were not working but should have started with a lot of white smoke.
> 
> If everything was normal the day before probably something simple like EGR valve stuck open due carbon or a sensor died due to infant mortality.


I had a no start problem with my Cruze Diesel and saw this entry that said the EGR valve could cause a No Start condition. I replaced the EGR valve and did not connect the plug for the electrical contacts. The Car started and ran with no fault indications. So if you suspect that the EGR valve is stuck open, Remove the electrical plug. The car should start if that was the problem.


----------

