# Any lower??



## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

So I have a 12 LTZ with H&R springs.. As of right now with almost 20k on the springs I don't think they will be settling anymore and they are not as low as I thought they were going to be and would like for the tire and finder to be flush and even tuck a little in the front, I am about 1 1/4 inch from tire to finder in the front and 1 3/4 inch in the rear.. Is there any bump stops that I can take out or is there anything I can do to get this without the obvious answers of coils, cutting or changing brands?? With the car on an even flat surface I am 26 1/4 in from ground to finder and 26 3/4 in the rear.. There is another member on here with a black LTZ "cyclone wrath" that has posted in the "official lowered thread" and the stance that he has is exactly what I am looking for.. Any suggestions guys??


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

I also remember a thread about the struts and how they were updated.. A member up north said they changed just his struts and not the springs and that it lowered his car.. The reason for him taking it in is he said that the strut sounded bad, like a clunking noise.. I hear it in my car and have taken it to the dealer (that I work at) and they will not touch it because I have lowering springs on it.. They told me I would have to put the factory springs back on before they would even let me pull it into service for that issue.. Struts made the noise before I put the springs on so it is not the springs that caused this.. My car was built in April of 2012 right around the change of struts in Lordstown.. Could my car have slipped through with the old design?? Vin is C7317316 and is about 2000 past the cutoff numbers for vin's..


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

Bump..


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

I can only offer my experience with the Eibachs. I have the new struts and my front is pretty slammed, tires are almost even with the fenders. Rears have a little gap, maybe an inch or a little more?

As far as going lower with your current springs I don't think that's going to happen unless you're willing to cut them, and that's not an ideal solution. Pulling the bump stops just gives more travel before bottoming out, but when you do bottom out it will hit HARD.

Installing the new struts up front may bring the front down, but the rear will not change. My car sits too high in the rear, and since my front is a little too low I plan to raise the front slightly to balance the look, less rake.


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

The thing is my dealership won't even look at my car because it is lowered.. My vin is after the cutoff but was built before that cutoff.. The car was doing it before the springs were put on.. I contacted GM customer care and they contacted my dealer and asked what the deal was and he called me into his office and said that I would have to pay to have them swapped back then he would look at it then told Jackie that I thought I was part of a survey or something..


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Well, you might be stuck swapping the stock springs back in, at least on the front, if you want them to do any warranty work. I can understand why they are thinking that way.

I can't imagine it taking a shop longer than about 1-1.5 hours to swap your old springs back in.


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

Blue Angel said:


> Well, you might be stuck swapping the stock springs back in, at least on the front, if you want them to do any warranty work. I can understand why they are thinking that way.
> 
> I can't imagine it taking a shop longer than about 1-1.5 hours to swap your old springs back in.


I'm just going to say screw it and buy the struts from www.gmpartsdirect.com and pay a tech at the dealership to put them on after hours.. Struts are 56.08 a side.. Since I can't get any help from GM on a known issue that I am having.. And when GM did contact the dealership I was made out to be an idiot and apperently not even know what I was talking about..


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Careful... I think the noise issue was the hardware at the top of the strut, not the strut itself. The strut redesign was necessary due to the other parts being redesigned. Your hardware may not work with the new struts.


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

Blue Angel said:


> Careful... I think the noise issue was the hardware at the top of the strut, not the strut itself. The strut redesign was necessary due to the other parts being redesigned. Your hardware may not work with the new struts.


Thanks for the heads up, I will look into that..


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Blue Angel said:


> Careful... I think the noise issue was the hardware at the top of the strut, not the strut itself. The strut redesign was necessary due to the other parts being redesigned. Your hardware may not work with the new struts.


That's interesting. I have this noise too, which only got louder with my stiffer snow tires. But my deaf dealer claimed they couldn't hear it before. And I had the factory intake back on, so there wasn't any air noise making it difficult to hear.


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

Sunline Fan said:


> That's interesting. I have this noise too, which only got louder with my stiffer snow tires. But my deaf dealer claimed they couldn't hear it before. And I had the factory intake back on, so there wasn't any air noise making it difficult to hear.


I know exactly what you mean.. I had a squeak in my brakes and had some clips replaced under warranty well it is doing the exact same thing and while in service yesterday I asked them to look at it and of course got the "could not duplicate" but I get in my car to move it and I can hear it clear as day.. God forbid someone have to work.. Smh


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