# low voltage, car stalled on freeway twice this morning - car back to dealership



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

It's either your alternator or your battery. In this case I would say it's your alternator and your car was running pretty much off of your battery. My dad used to always tell me, "new doesn't mean good". Things go wrong with cars which is why we have warranties. Not every new part they churn out is going to work or last like it should. I'm sure with a replacement alternator and a battery charge you'll be good to go.

That reminds me of my wife's alternator on her '04 mustang. The car died on her way home from work. I went and bought a new alternator and jumped the car. Took like 10 minutes to swap it out. Next year, the alt died again. Seems we have a good one on their now. No problems within the past 2 years, luckily.


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

yeah, I'm thinking alternator too.. I'm looking over the Service Reps notes and all he has are 4 things on it:
1) SES Light On
2) Slow Cranking
3) Low Voltage
4) Driving Car Stalled Out

I'm hoping all this means a replaced Alternator and Battery... I will post an update with what they say....


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## audog (Apr 28, 2011)

My LTZ had "odd" electrical issues when new, it turned out that the battery had a bad cell, dealer replaced battery and all has been good since.


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

Dealer just called me and said they got approval from GM to replace the Battery.. They said it won't be ready until Tomorrow morning, but the answer they are giving me is that I had a dead battery.....


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

Shotime32 said:


> On their diagnostic paper, they said they tested the battery and it was at 12.9V and had an "OK" next to it.


I don't think that 12.9 volts is normal for a car battery. IIRC the normal voltage of a properly charged car battery is 14 volts.

I was wrong. I just went out and put a meter on the cars in my garage. 12.5 & 12.6 volts. Sorry for the feeble remembering. 

Jim


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## mountainmax159 (Apr 18, 2011)

Jim Frye said:


> I don't think that 12.9 volts is normal for a car battery. IIRC the normal voltage of a properly charged car battery is 14 volts.
> 
> I was wrong. I just went out and put a meter on the cars in my garage. 12.5 & 12.6 volts. Sorry for the feeble remembering.
> 
> Jim


 Back in the day it was 14 atleast have no clue anymore. i know mine goes up and down


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...a fully charged BATTERY voltage is *12.6-12.8* volts (between 2.10 and 2.13 volts per cell).

...the common alternator output voltage used to RECHARGE a battery is *14.3-14.5* volts or less (depending on battery temperature); when it's really hot, it could be as _low_ as *14.0* volts.

...why is 14.5 volts the _maxium_ charging voltage you should use? Because a lead-acid battery begins to "out-gas" (hydrogen) at voltages above *14.4* volts.


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## eljackso (Apr 23, 2011)

Given the issues I have had with my Eco 6MT, I had been wondering if the variable output alternator might be contributing to some of the problems - especially in combination with the variable pressure fuel pump. Hopefully the battery takes care of your issue; however, I very rarely see a bad battery nowdays - it's usually something in the charging system instead. Also, when looking at battery ouput, you need to put it under load and see what the voaltege drop is, putting a meter on an unloaded battery to chack voltage is fairly useless as far as diagnostics go. Auto mechanics are losing their troubleshooting abilities by relying way too much on codes, in my opinion - especially when it comes to data points that are borderline good/bad.

Good luck and keep us posted...


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

*Update 07-26-2011*

So the tech at the dealership replaced my battery and the battery warning went away, *but* the engine light unfortunately did not go away during the test drive.
So the diagnosis for the check engine light is that my Catalytic Converter needs to be replaced. Seems pretty random as I feel the 2 issues (battery and catalytic converter) are unrelated to each other, unless I'm missing something.

So the vehicle is still in the shop. 1-2 days to get the new converter in + 1day to install. Estimated earliest to pick up vehicle is Friday, pending check engine light goes away...


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## 5.0 Junkie (Mar 25, 2011)

Watch your readout for a while. I have seen mine range from 12.7 to 15.4 driving down the road. Both caused me concern, but it doesn't go to the extremes all of the time. 



70AARCUDA said:


> ...a fully charged BATTERY voltage is *12.6-12.8* volts (between 2.10 and 2.13 volts per cell).
> 
> ...the common alternator output voltage used to RECHARGE a battery is *14.3-14.5* volts or less (depending on battery temperature); when it's really hot, it could be as _low_ as *14.0* volts.
> 
> ...why is 14.5 volts the _maxium_ charging voltage you should use? Because a lead-acid battery begins to "out-gas" (hydrogen) at voltages above *14.4* volts.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...as a "cross-check" I have a digital voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket and shows the voltage to one decimal place, ie: XX.X VDC.


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

*UPDATE 08-AUG-2011

*Car has not been returned to me yet from the Service Department. I'm starting to think these guys are a bunch of Idiots. I called them and asked them when it would be ready, and they said they are still waiting for 2 parts to get in. 
Hello? they told me they were overnighting the part last wednesday. Its been a full week with my vehicle. I'm fukin Pissed!!!


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## gman19 (Apr 5, 2011)

Man that does suck....

In the midst of all this, keep us updated as you can...I guess all you can do is hang in there. 

I think I'd try and beat them out of some free oil changes or something...raise enough sand and you can probably walk away with some freebies...


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## dennisu (Jun 17, 2011)

Just so you know. 15 volts is the standard full charge on charge voltage for 6 lead/acid cells in series, i.e. a 12 volt battery. It will not do any harm to have it get that high especially when cold. The standard regulator in most alternators is set to give 14.8 volts for @ 1/2 hour to get the battery up to temperature and then drop down to 13.8 for constant running.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...the "new" (since 2005!) *Regulated Voltage Control* (RVC) system used on the Cruze doesn't work like the "old" simple field-voltage regulators of the past.

...for more information, search the *ACDelco* "*TechConnect*" (May/June 2005, Vol. 12, No. 3) e-zine for the article: _"Charge! New Regulated Voltage Control Systems!"_


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## plowman33 (Jul 20, 2011)

Shotime32 said:


> *UPDATE 08-AUG-2011*


:question:

You came here from the future with an update?

Looks like someone did the flux capacitor mod on their Cruze...


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...maybe *that* is the problem, a _leaky_ *flux-gate capacitor* in his Cruze!

...what would Doc and Marty say?


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

Lol... I was probably so fired up when writing the update, I wasn't thinking straight. I might of been thinking, "****, the rate this is going, I'm probably not gonna get the cruze back until the 8th".....
I do have an update tho... I complained to the service manager and he told me that he has tracked the new catalytic converter. It needed to be shipped from Canada and had to go through customs. That is why there is a delay....
Anyone know of a GM factory in Canada? Basically he said there has been a few issues with the original catalytic converter and the new one was only available in Canada... 
WTH......


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## gman19 (Apr 5, 2011)

About half the parts content for the Cruze is Canadian....I guess this delay could be ligit...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

That's odd. Let us know how everything works out.


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

*UPDATE 03-AUG-2011*

Finally...... After 9 days int eh shop, I got the Cruze back today. Here are the details directly from the Service Report on what was done with her....

Issue 1: Customer States states slow cranking start and battery warning light on. Replaced Battery and still found low reading in DIC (12.1V). Removed battery and performed Battery Test. Battery GR8. Found Poor Ground. Repaired Ground and retested. Battery GR8. Check charging system now at 13.6V with Load 100 AMP.
Test Drove battery OK, Engine Light still On.

Issue 2 - Customer States Service Engine Light On
Front Cat Converter Fail and Front Heater 02 Sensor Not Respond. Visual Check OK. Clear DTC's. Fixed Ground due to battery and retest drove. Check Engine still On. Back to shop. FOund New DTC. Refer to GDS Data Show Heater 02 Sensor Front .05 to 081 long temr fuel trim 6% short fuel trim -4% to 5%. Call TAC spoke to Bill Case. Tac suggest disconnect Heater 02 Sensor and if DTC shows P0420 adn Heater 02 Sensor come back with P0030, P0132, P0135, P0134, and P0420 ...continue


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

REplace Cat Converter and Heater 02 Sensor...Removed heat shield, heater 02 sensor front, removed rear converter out to gain access to cat converter. Found Cat Converter broken to pieces. Cleaned out Cat Converter as much as possible and replaced with new Converter. Test Drove on Freeway.. Runs good. NO DTC lights at his time.

Issue 3: Customer States Car Stalled.
Checked Voltage at 12.49 Volt. Checked Battery Terminal found Bad Ground. Repair Gorund, retested. Veh OK. 


So vehicle seems like its running back to normal. Whats a little bothersome is that they tried to so a visual OK and retest it. It wasn't until they called corporate GM that they new to replace the Cat Converter. It seems like GM new right away so I'm thinking I'm not the first to have this issue. 
But I'm just happy to have the cruze back. My DIC says the Battery is running between 13.8-14.4V when on the freeway with my AC on. So all seems cool. For the inconvenience, they hooked up a free oil change on the next visit and touch up paint for small scratch on Bumper (which was there prior to bringing it in)...


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## gman19 (Apr 5, 2011)

Ultimately, was the issue with the CEL fixed?


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## Shotime32 (May 21, 2011)

yes.. CEL is gone...
Also, it seemed like a BI*** for them just to get to the Cat Converter to fix the CEL. So I can imagine if GM wanted to do a recall on the Cat Converter, It would be BIG recall due to cost, labor, etc... I believe its a known issue with GM, but nothing big to have a recall.. IMO


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Glad to hear they fixed you up.


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## audog (Apr 28, 2011)

Had similar electrical issue when car was new. They found a "bad battery" and has been running fine since replaced. Found this today,
GM Techlink
Scroll down to the article about Intermittent start on Cruze. You will find it interesting.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...and, _that_ info is not in one of the GM technical service bulletins (yet).


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## audog (Apr 28, 2011)

How does techlink do it? Info before GM TSB's?


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...*TechLink* is GM technicians _immediately_ posting problems when they encounter them, which usually _preceeds_ *action* by GM mangement.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

To answer a couple of your questions: Yes battery voltage can destroy a converter, when the voltage isn't correct the sensors do not operate properly which can cause many different issues (such as too much fuel gettin ginto the exhaust and BAM, bye bye cat). Parts wise there are Cruze parts all over the world, When I had the Oil pressure sensor go bad the first day I had my car it was a 1 month wait for another one because they flat out didn't have any in the US and had to outsource to Austria, who didn't have enough for engines being built so had to have them manufactured. The TECH has a specific way he/she is "supposed" to do things. If it says visually check they visually check and with a new car like this they probably don't have many shortcuts in mind yet. It may or may not be known to GM, could be an isolated incident but with the amount of time you were waiting they probably made the call to replace the whole CAT and sensor than keep you waiting while they troubleshooted. To be honest looking at what you typed I am willing to bet money it was all caused by a bad/loose ground wire, which can wreak havoc on new cars.


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## SlowBoost (Jul 26, 2011)

5.0 Junkie said:


> Watch your readout for a while. I have seen mine range from 12.7 to 15.4 driving down the road. Both caused me concern, but it doesn't go to the extremes all of the time.


Same here. Typically just cruising down the interstate it will read 12.6-ish. I find that quite strange. Is this an issue as the OP stated, or is it just a deal with the alternator doing it's job and not being on all the time?


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## Dale_K (Jul 16, 2011)

My alternator tries to do all its charging while coasting/braking. Watch your voltage reading as you take your foot off the gas. it will probably go up to 14.5 or maybe even a little higher.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...for more info about *how* the GM Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system works, do a search on RVC here.


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## pianoman (Jul 14, 2011)

I had a similar problem with my Cruze; the charging system warning would not go out. I actually drove it for two days until I brought it back; they found that some plug in the alternator wasn't secured and had worked itself loose. Problem solved and has not returned.

That voltage thing is a little weird at first, but yes I have noticed it jumps way up during decel. Makes sense, I guess. I'm just used to a car charging more when you step on the gas for years.


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## alex725 (Apr 2, 2011)

Mine threw a check engine light the other day for too much voltage. Car started and drove like new so it was of no concern to me.


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## CRUZDOG (Jan 22, 2013)

i BOUGHT MY CHEVY CRUZ AUGUST OF 2011 ONLY 145 MILES OR SO ON THE CAR. WITHIN THE FIRST 2 WEEKS SOMETHING WENT OUT REGARDING THE TRANSMISSION AND THE CAR JUST DIED ON ME. THEY FIXED THAT... NOW FOR THE PAST 6-10 MONTHS I HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING MY BATTERY BEING SOMEHOW DRAINED OF POWER. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALER MANY TIMES, THEY REPLACED THE BATTERY, THE ALTERNATOR AND THE CHARGING SYSTEM, AND LAST NIGHT THE "SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING" LIGHT CAME ON...THEN BATTERY LIGHT..THEN "BATTERY SAVER" LIGHT. HELP!!!


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