# How long did your brake pads last?



## Hazlitt777 (Nov 2, 2013)

I've got just over 64,000 miles on my car and the original brake pads. 

When have you guys replaced your pads? How many miles were you able to get out of them?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I was still on my original brake pads when my ECO was totaled. My dealership looked at the 90K service and told me I should be good to over 200K miles.


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## 1988gmc355 (Jul 20, 2016)

I have 104K on my '11 ECO and I would say they are original and I will not need to change them even in the next 40-50K, I might upgrade pads just for better performance since I am in traffic a lot.


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## KenH (Aug 27, 2017)

Something I heard explained at a certified, well established Chevy dealership.

If when buying a used car... "the dealership will automatically replace brake pads no sooner than 54,000 miles, or less, but only if after inspection warrants their replacement." (I suspect that is in their liability clause).

So it would seem that GM expects their originally installed pads to safety last at least 54,000, and then some.


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## Hazlitt777 (Nov 2, 2013)

obermd said:


> I was still on my original brake pads when my ECO was totaled. My dealership looked at the 90K service and told me I should be good to over 200K miles.


Sorry to hear you totaled it. Hope you came out of it without a scratch. Over 200! You must know how to drive. Last time I looked at my brakes they were looking good. So if I can make it to 150,000 I would be really happy. We shall see.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

We have over 75k on ours, and when I swapped the wheels back over to the all-seasons and MSRs, the pads still looked to have life left.


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

I had about 60k miles on them when the front ones were glazed. They still had about 1/3rd of life on them, and I could have re-used them after sanding them off, but I changed them to ceramic anyway (due to it's better stopping power).
The rears I haven't even looked at, as most people get well above 120k miles on them.

I didn't change the rotors, because they still were good and didn't need resurfacing; because the cheaper Chinese rotors sometimes give trouble (wear out fast).
I might swap the rotors with my next brake job at 120-150k miles.

And while I don't hypermile, I do tend to engine brake, or optimize my driving style in trying not to break (slow down before a red light, hoping it'll turn green in time before I make a full stop), and I usually only use the brakes in emergencies, when engine braking doesn't cut it, or when I'm about to stop in 2nd to 1st gear (~0-20MPH).


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Hazlitt777 said:


> Sorry to hear you totaled it. Hope you came out of it without a scratch. Over 200! You must know how to drive. Last time I looked at my brakes they were looking good. So if I can make it to 150,000 I would be really happy. We shall see.


It was totaled while parked in Golden, CO. We had a hail storm come through and there was simply too much damage at one time. I've been a life long hyper-miler and learned a long time ago how to avoid using the brakes in most driving situations. Link to the thread on my Cruze's demise is in my sig.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

obermd said:


> It was totaled while parked in Golden, CO. We had a hail storm come through and there was simply too much damage at one time. I've been a life long hyper-miler and learned a long time ago how to avoid using the brakes in most driving situations. Link to the thread on my Cruze's demise is in my sig.


And now you have something that simply doesn't need brakes in most situations.

I've determined that, in general, if I have to use the brake pedal, someone else wasn't driving properly. The regen paddle is generally more than plenty if you plan out your moves ahead of time. The Bolt has some insane regen in its highest setting - almost threw us through the windshield by just letting off the throttle.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

MP81 said:


> And now you have something that simply doesn't need brakes in most situations.
> 
> I've determined that, in general, if I have to use the brake pedal, someone else wasn't driving properly. The regen paddle is generally more than plenty if you plan out your moves ahead of time. The Bolt has some insane regen in its highest setting - almost threw us through the windshield by just letting off the throttle.


I find the combination of L and the regen paddle to be whiplash inducing in my Volt. I like how Chevy engages the friction brakes below 5KPH - this actually improves brake life by exercising the brake system and keeping the pads clean without putting excessive wear on the pads.

With all my previous cars I found the combination of not following too closely and looking ahead up to half a mile (situation permitting) you can avoid having to use your brakes even in heavy traffic. Of course this helps in the Volt as well.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Just turned 90K miles, pads (original) look great but occasionally pulsating, especially if braking on downgrade. Otherwise they function safely and stop great with no noise or rattles. 

Unless there’s an easy fix that doesn’t require replacing brakes or rotors (or both), I’ll continue to live with it till the pads wear down. 

Seems like once replaced, brakes are never as good as they were from the factory.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

obermd said:


> I find the combination of L and the regen paddle to be whiplash inducing in my Volt. I like how Chevy engages the friction brakes below 5KPH - this actually improves brake life by exercising the brake system and keeping the pads clean without putting excessive wear on the pads.
> 
> With all my previous cars I found the combination of not following too closely and looking ahead up to half a mile (situation permitting) you can avoid having to use your brakes even in heavy traffic. Of course this helps in the Volt as well.


So take L + Paddle, and multiple it by a factor of, say, 2 or 3. That's the Bolt on the highest setting. It was pretty insane. I do wish the paddle was variable.

And yep, that's generally how I drive anyway, so it's only more of a benefit with the Volt.



Rivergoer said:


> Just turned 90K miles, pads (original) look great but occasionally pulsating, especially if braking on downgrade. Otherwise they function safely and stop great with no noise or rattles.
> 
> Unless there’s an easy fix that doesn’t require replacing brakes or rotors (or both), I’ll continue to live with it till the pads wear down.
> 
> Seems like once replaced, brakes are never as good as they were from the factory.


You honestly could just get by with having the rotors turned, most likely. Give the pads a quick sand (can just use a scour pad) to even up the surface, and you'll likely get quite a few more miles out of them.

And yes, that always seems to be the case - however, I have found that the AC Delco "GM Original Equipment" to be a great stock replacement - as they are the actual OE part, not just OE-replacement.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

74k miles and counting with plenty of life left on the front pads.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Rivergoer said:


> Just turned 90K miles, pads (original) look great but occasionally pulsating, especially if braking on downgrade. Otherwise they function safely and stop great with no noise or rattles.
> 
> Unless there’s an easy fix that doesn’t require replacing brakes or rotors (or both), I’ll continue to live with it till the pads wear down.
> 
> Seems like once replaced, brakes are never as good as they were from the factory.


I used non-GM brakes one time; never again. I do agree that replacement brakes never seem to work as well as factory installed.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

30K. I couldn't stand the stock brakes. In stop-and-go traffic, they bake to the rotors super easily and cause lots of shimmying. I had shaking within 15k, dealer resurfaced the rotors, and it was back in another 15k. I re-adjusted the rear brakes as well.

Went to Akebono ceramics and Centric rotors and never looked back. Still stopped smoothly when I sold the 2012 35k later.

The Gen 2's brakes must have changed compounds. They're quite bitey, don't fade much in the twisties, and stop entirely smoothly still.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

It helps that the Gen 2 is a few hundred pounds lighter, too - less mass to stop.


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## AzSandSlinger (Sep 10, 2015)

I replaced mine with Centric Rotors and Semi-m Pads at about 80-90k(?). Stockers still had about 40-50% of their life left but I started to get "the pulse" while slowing on the downhills.

Adjusting the rears makes a big difference too


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## srw101 (Dec 5, 2017)

115k when I replaced mine weren't even squeeling yet just thought they were due.


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## a2chris (Jan 13, 2017)

55k on my original pads and they look like they will go at least double that. Now if I could just get an engine to last that long. I would gladly accept less brake life if did not have to get a 3rd engine.


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

Replaced my brakes at 40k due to wanting something with a little more bite. Went with stoptech slotted rotors and EBC organic pads. 60k on those with 60% pad left, curious to see how long these will last as these have been on the Cruze longer than the same setup on previous cars.

Rear brakes on the other hand (drums) are original with over 100k on them. Just adjusted them last week for the second time and they look to have little wear at all on them.


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