# When to replace rear shocks/average lifespan?



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Ironic that Akron Ohio, that I've always known as the world headquarters of Goodyear, would have bumpy roads. 

Given that, an argument could be made that your shocks received more wear than they would have otherwise. 

The lifespan of a shock absorber is open to debate. While gas charged units tend to last longer, wear comes on gradually with all designs. However, a leaking shock, typified by oil staining on the unit, is an undeniable indicator for replacement. 

One thing I would strong encourage is to only replace with the exact factory replacement units supplied by the dealership parts counter based on your VIN. Suspensions are highly developed things, and shock valving, jounce (compression) and rebound rates very widely even within the same vehicle line. Replacing factory units with one-size-fits-all shocks marketed pretty much everywhere will dramatically change your vehicle's behaviour - and likely in a negative way. 

Of course it's your car, and your money, so kindly do whatever you feel best for your personal circumstances.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Depending on who you talk to: One person says: when they leak(bunch of BS IMO)
Most people would let shocks go until @ 70000 or until noticeable (like you are experiencing). Most people get used to how it drives and never replace.

IMO you are about right for replacement esp with factory shocks
If you are feeling it now I would say replace. Right Now Monroe has a deal buy 3 get the 4th free(Called Shocktober) for the $ it is worth the ride quality and with winter coming 

I am looking at the same with my wife's car with 66K. She would never say anything, but I drive her car and think this thing needs shocks.


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

But how does Monroe compare to stock units? Also ARENT the shocks gas shocks? Therefore leaking isn't visible. I feel as if the bumps are normal imo. No one else has said anything. It's not like Its a Rolls Royce, you're going to feel bumps.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Although improvements have been made over the years, in general......shocks seem to have a lifespan of around 50k miles.
Extremely variable though.....rough roads speed the process.

Bounce test only applies to shocks (not struts).....generally if you bounce the rear of the car, serviceable shocks will have it fully dampened by the second bounce.

In this case though, based on the source of information you describe, the individuals opinion is at best, debateable.

If the above bounce test is met, and there is no oil leakage on the shock body, I usually tell folks to leave them be.

Now, since you mentioned struts, they are a different kettle of worms.
Struts are IMO, the worst case example of a good part being thrown away needlessly.

Anyone who understands a telescoping front fork as found on a motorcycle should be able to understand, so this is for those that haven't been exposed.
A strut, with 5k or more miles will fail a bounce test.......
The reason they feel tight and controlled when new is because of a phenomina called 'Sticktion'.

There is a rather stout seal pressed into the strut body that encircles the strut shaft.
This is a similar arrangement found on a motorcycle fork.

The new seal grips the shaft so firmly when new it introduces 'Sticktion' also known as seal friction.
The seal 'sticks' to the strut shaft until there is enouph force to break it free and, because it is so tight, it feels like the new strut is damping very well compared to the old one.
If we perform the same 'bounce test' at around 5k miles, we will find our nice new strut bounces almost as freely as the old one did.
Thats because the seal has worn a bit and is no longer 'binding' the shaft.

A strut uses a system of 'deflected discs' that actually control oil flow 'the damping medium' within the strut body.
The discs respond to the speed of compression.......meaning a very hard, abrupt bump or hole will met with almost the same force of damping to control the oscillation.
When we bounce test a strut, we cannot create enouph speed to make the discs control much oil flow so there is very little damping......we are just watching a broken in seal kind of stop the bounce.

So, there are in actuality only two things that occur that call for strut replacement beyond physical damage (such as bent shaft).

1. Actual seal failure.....you will have a strut wet with oil......stick a fork in it, it's done.

2. A weld point failure of a deflected disc(s)....this will often show itself as a jingling sound while bouncing the front end....a jingle occurs with each chenge of bounce direction.

The deflected discs can also fracture, again, no oil oriface control, no damping.
This is the one where you go over a rolling rise at speed and the front end oscilates up and down for nest 100 feet.....like a slow boat in rolling waves.

Just like a motorcycle fork except the motorcycle fork can be rebuilt with new seals and oil orifaces (plunger in the bottom of the housing)
The difference between the two is the motorcycle spring is in the housing as opposed to wrapped around the outside like a car.

It is not uncommon for struts to last the life of the car and remain effective.
It is also acceptable to replace one strut (of the same manufacturer) at a time.....the new side will be stiffer for 5k or less miles, but once broken in will perform the same as the undamaged original strut on the other side.

You've chosen one of my favorite subjects and there will be a LOT of 'Rob is FOS' responses.....

I'm going flying....I'll be back tonight.....heh heh,

Rob


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

As Tomko and Robby said this is a subject open for debate, As I mentioned I am comparing my 2012 Eco to my wife's 2005 Malibu. sure there is going to be a handling difference. Whether my wife's or your car really need shocks IDK. It is your car and how do you feel driving it. I mentioned the Monroes bc that is what is readily sold at parts stores and you don't need to replace all 4 just the rears if you feel there is a problem there. I am looking at the fronts only on wife's car so that may make all the difference. We all have opinions about car care but ultimately, it is your car and what you want to do. Sorry there is no definitive answer here like the car not running.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Snappa said:


> But how does Monroe compare to stock units? Also ARENT the shocks gas shocks? Therefore leaking isn't visible. I feel as if the bumps are normal imo. No one else has said anything. It's not like Its a Rolls Royce, you're going to feel bumps.


Monroe spends a ton of money on marketing, pretty colours and sale prices. Compare that to the dealer cost on a correct factory shock and you'll find the factory shock has a cost price maybe twice or more that than Monroe. Then ask yourself why? 

How can Monroe retail a unit at such a deep discount than the cost of a factory unit? Clearly it can't be of the same quality. 

If you don't want to go with a factory unit then I would look to a true OEM supplier such as Koni, KYB, etc. You'll find that they're priced right up there with the factory shock because they are of comparable quality.


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

Do I perform the bounce test by simply pressing down on the rear trunk area?


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

How hard is it to source out the stock ones? Both the rears had this same markings.


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## FlintCruze (Feb 27, 2014)

Also keep an eye on tire wear. A tire that is over-worn on the sides, even after a recent alignment, will indicate shock failure.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'd tell the chronic complainer to take the bus.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

If you go over bumps @ highway speed and the rear of the car feels like it's floating or rebounding way too much over bumps, it's time to replace. Otherwise, wouldn't worry about it just yet. 

I've been told that aside from the rear legroom, the back of my car offers a very comfortable ride. I would agree - my last car had a very stiff "sport" suspension setup. Oh look, a pebble! THUMP.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Bilstein used to claim that their gas charged shocks were good for 100,000 miles. 

I'd hazard to guess that as long as your factory shocks are gas, as identified by a cautionary label, and continue to maintain their charge, then your likely good to go for quite a while longer.


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## CW_ (Jan 31, 2013)

Possibly fairly hard other than going to a dealer or buying from one of those web stores that sells OEM GM parts. S&T Daewoo (now S&T Motiv) is a Korean company that doesn't really do aftermarket parts to the best of my knowledge.



Merc6 said:


> How hard is it to source out the stock ones? Both the rears had this same markings.


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## soup070 (Jan 21, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> If you go over bumps @ highway speed and the rear of the car feels like it's floating or rebounding way too much over bumps, it's time to replace. Otherwise, wouldn't worry about it just yet.
> 
> I've been told that aside from the rear legroom, the back of my car offers a very comfortable ride. I would agree - my last car had a very stiff "sport" suspension setup. Oh look, a pebble! THUMP.


Like jblackburn said there's many factors - driving conditions (rough roads, lots of hwy will make them last longer than stop & go driving), way you drive (aggressive, fast, hard driving will make them wear faster), who rides with you (added weight and weight of the car), or even weather (extreme cold conditions will wear on the seals more). My Cruze has 73k on it and everything is as tight as a drum - oem tires still have 7to8/32, brake pads are far from wear bars, and when I cross the RR tracks by my house I take it easy and it still rebounds strong. Now take my G8 at 53k they came with crappy FE2 oil shocks - it's been driven with care but they are totally shot and it floats like a 90s Crown Vic. Even with 6pot Brembos and up graded sways its diving and rolling all over the place. 

So it really doesn't matter on mileage so much but on way you drive and where you drive. But I figure any thing after 100k on it should get new shocks if not worn out already, it should be considered a mainence item.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Bounce test is as old as the hills, one corner at a time, both hands if you are a big guy, get the vehicle rocking very hard, should stop within one cycle for good shocks. 

Ha, don't try this on a motorhome, lucky to depress a fraction of a millimeter. Rest is judgement. On mine had the original Delco shocks on it, the 100-0 kind and the ride was terrible, so put on four Monroe's twice the diameter, and 50-50's, what a difference that made in ride.

Other signs of bad shocks are nose diving when you come to a stop. Cavalier shocks are still original with 135K on it. Lots has to do with road salt. Couldn't even rid in my kid's 93 Bravada with good Delco shocks on it, put on Gabriels gas shocks, what a huge difference that made in the ride. So tell don't me OE is best.

Nothing can smooth out a pothole, have one here a foot in diameter and a foot deep, have to watch the road.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

There is a bridge I drive across almost daily that used to feel solid with my stock suspension. Now at 57K my rear has a bit of extra bounce making my car feel a bit buick like.... time to replace my rear shocks. 

Mine has been this way since about 35K when I replaced my tires, my rear tires both had strange edge wear showing at about 10K later I can only assume is from all the crappy roads I drive & bad rear shocks.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

NickD said:


> Bounce test is as old as the hills, one corner at a time, both hands if you are a big guy, get the vehicle rocking very hard, should stop within one cycle for good shocks.
> 
> Ha, don't try this on a motorhome, lucky to depress a fraction of a millimeter. Rest is judgement. On mine had the original Delco shocks on it, the 100-0 kind and the ride was terrible, so put on four Monroe's twice the diameter, and 50-50's, what a difference that made in ride.
> 
> ...


These good Delco shocks you reference on the Bravada, were they the factory shocks or were they Delco replacement shocks? 

There is a difference. 

Delco markets replacement shocks that compete at the price levels of other aftermarket suppliers. They are not something I would particularly endorse. 

Whereas the shocks that the vehicle left the factory with, and can be had from the dealership parts counter with the help of a competent parts person referencing the VIN of the vehicle, are another thing.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Quite true Tomko.

The Bilsteins that were OE on my 96 Blazer (and probably the Bravada example) went well beyond 100k before they finally started seeping.
The replacements, my cost (dealer) was around eighty bucks each if memory serves.....a similar hit as when our Impala's need em'.

I stepped up though.....and those were hanging in there till last year when I sent it on its way to a new owner showing just under 300k.....nothing has changed, good stuff aint cheap.
Guys still driving it but I doubt if it gets the attention it is used to.

Rob


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Talk about not doing my homework purchasing an 89 Continental, used what they call air bags, more like air shocks where the rubber seal folded underneath. Stones and salt would get struck under that fold, if not eating away at the metal, stones would cut into that piece of rubber. No springs of any sort, with one leak, the entire vehicle would drop to the ground. Then a very complicated air compressor and microcontroller to boot.

Shocks were only a dealer replaceable item at 750 bucks each, that's 3,000 bucKs! Other cars like the MB had replaceable rubber at a half way decent price. Had to dump that POS.

Did my homework on the Cruze, complete strut assemblies up front for 90 bucks each, conventional shocks at the rear, very easy to replace at 50 bucks each. Bit more reasonable.

AC Delco is only a name, has been for the last 20 years or so, no telling what you are getting, but do have many aftermarket choices.

I see JC Whitney is still around, also use to have a Warshawsky catalog, same catalog, but much lower prices. First time I went there in Chicago was when I was 14 year old. Got a lever for a buck fifty to convert that crazy vacuum shift for a 41 Chevy to a mechanical, worked wonderful. Use to buy complete engine rebuilding supplies from them, and especially adapter plates. Quality was always good and prices very low.

Ha, if it wasn't for the internet, would have gotten rid of my 88 Supra a long time ago, Toyota dealers love to rob you to death charging 4-5 times as much as the same part you can find on the internet. Before that so-called crunch, would get the best prices from my Chevy and Ford dealer, but this is also history.


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## MD5335 (Oct 16, 2012)

On one of my former vehicles (the '96 Maxima), worn struts caused tire cupping in fairly short order, say 15K miles. It doesn't take much cupping to make for a very noisy ride. The Cruze (I have 52K miles now on the original tires) hasn't exhibited any of that yet, but I won't again skimp on replacing shocks/struts just because they still "work". My guess is that different makes/models can exhibit different symptoms related to failing shocks/struts.


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## nobog (Oct 25, 2011)

OEM this, KYB that, Bilsteins... one will never know as the dampening "curve" is never published. I have revalved thousands of high pressure snowmobile shocks and can tell you the OEM's seldom are spot on. Even if the shock dampening characteristics were published most would never know how read 'em. The problem is one mans firm ride is another mans soft ride. So other than the exact same OEM shock, one will never know what you will get. If they are leaking - replace 'em. Over 100K - replace 'em, that's my 2 bits.

Jim


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## mandusa (Sep 4, 2017)

Went over a small pot hole last week, big bang came from the back of my 2014 LT Cruze. The rear shocks on both sides broken. The car has only 50,000 kms, not miles, kms. I am not impressed, what a piece of garbage the Cruze is. When my lease is up in six months I am done with Chevy. It sure as **** did not live up to my 2002 Trailblazer I had previously.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mandusa said:


> Went over a small pot hole last week, big bang came from the back of my 2014 LT Cruze. The rear shocks on both sides broken. The car has only 50,000 kms, not miles, kms. I am not impressed, what a piece of garbage the Cruze is. When my lease is up in six months I am done with Chevy. It sure as **** did not live up to my 2002 Trailblazer I had previously.


Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

I currently drive a '14 LT with almost 60k miles (not km's :1poke and love it. Since I have been on this forum, I do not remember anyone complaining about this issue, but I have not searched for it either. I had a 2001 Taurus that had broken rear springs. Do you live in an area that heavily uses salt?

Do not forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## mandusa (Sep 4, 2017)

I live near Toronto, so we have some salt but every year the winters are more mild so not as much salt as a lot of places. I still don't think occasional salt should chew through shocks in just three years time.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

mandusa said:


> Went over a small pot hole last week, big bang came from the back of my 2014 LT Cruze. The rear shocks on both sides broken. The car has only 50,000 kms, not miles, kms. I am not impressed, what a piece of garbage the Cruze is. When my lease is up in six months I am done with Chevy. It sure as **** did not live up to my 2002 Trailblazer I had previously.


[emoji23]

Been here 6 years and haven't seen this one yet. Perhaps you should avoid such large car swallowing potholes...?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> [emoji23]
> 
> Been here 6 years and haven't seen this one yet. Perhaps you should avoid such large car swallowing potholes...?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I hit a pothole in my IROC once that hurt so bad I was impressed did not break my spine. It snuck up on me coming out of a tunnel, and I was surprised nothing broke. 

We've (unintentionally) hit some **** in the Cruze of similar magnitudes (because Michigan) and never broke a thing - sure sounds like this poster was unable to find the Candle Supply.


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## 10488 (Apr 16, 2013)

When I worked for one of the major auto parts store chains we would get visitors by the manufacturers occasionally. Once was by a Monroe shock and strut rep. He said at the time (late 90s) that most shocks and struts are good for around 50,000 miles. Depending on where you drive and the roads there, you could see a little more than that before the oil breaks down and the inside of the cylinders get scuffed. I've got around 65,000 on my 2013 LT1 and it feels like new but the chances are so small over a long period of time that it is impossible to tell the difference. You just get used to to. After 50,000 mikes, I would have them inspected. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rancid (Sep 16, 2017)

when changing the rear shock absorbers only do you need to get the car aligned? i have done rear shock absorbers in the past on other vehicles and did not need to get it aligned.. hoping its the same with the cruze


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Rancid said:


> when changing the rear shock absorbers only do you need to get the car aligned? i have done rear shock absorbers in the past on other vehicles and did not need to get it aligned.. hoping its the same with the cruze


No alignment necessary


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## Rancid (Sep 16, 2017)

awesome thanks! 

I have an extended warranty so I don't need to deal with that for some time, but good to know I can do them myself if they fail after the warranty period. Rears are generally pretty simple in my experience.


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## Cruze11’RS-ECO (Apr 12, 2020)

Snappa said:


> Long story short, was driving around with a chronic complainer of automobiles in the passengers seat of my Cruze LS with z link suspension setup in the rear. Ironically this dude doesn't even own an automobile (which is why I drive him around) yet says the dampening on my car going over bumos is terrible. Mind you we live in a very bumpy town and the roads aren't the best. Anyway I'm sitting at about 51,150 miles. I have the stock front and rear suspension and it's an LS. How long does the shocks and struts last on these cars? I'm asking more so of the rear because if any vibration is felt, it's from back there. To me it feels about normal or average. I'm not saying it's perfectly smooth. I also purchased new tires over a year ago with the tread depth above what's considered brand new. They are kumo brand or whatever.


I know this is super old but I was reading and couldn’t help but notice you saying you have an LS?????
The Chevy Cruze doesn’t have an LS unless you performed an LS engine swap....the Cruze comes as LT,LTZ, eco, eco LT/LTZ it’s 2020 and I still haven’t seen anybody mention doing an LS swap I’m only mentioning this because you mentioned that you have an ✌🏼LS✌🏼 A couple times so it must not have been a typo.. please fill me in lol


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Cruze11’RS-ECO said:


> I know this is super old but I was reading and couldn’t help but notice you saying you have an LS?????
> The Chevy Cruze doesn’t have an LS unless you performed an LS engine swap....the Cruze comes as LT,LTZ, eco, eco LT/LTZ it’s 2020 and I still haven’t seen anybody mention doing an LS swap I’m only mentioning this because you mentioned that you have an ✌🏼LS✌🏼 A couple times so it must not have been a typo.. please fill me in lol


LS is the base trim level of most of GM's current lineup.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruze11’RS-ECO said:


> I know this is super old but I was reading and couldn’t help but notice you saying you have an LS?????
> The Chevy Cruze doesn’t have an LS unless you performed an LS engine swap....the Cruze comes as LT,LTZ, eco, eco LT/LTZ it’s 2020 and I still haven’t seen anybody mention doing an LS swap I’m only mentioning this because you mentioned that you have an ✌🏼LS✌🏼 A couple times so it must not have been a typo.. please fill me in lol


The Gen II's even have an L.

Gen II Cruze trim levels

Gen I Cruze trim levels


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> LS is the base trim level of most of GM's current lineup.


And here I thought this was pretty common knowledge...


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Cruze11’RS-ECO said:


> I know this is super old but I was reading and couldn’t help but notice you saying you have an LS?????
> The Chevy Cruze doesn’t have an LS unless you performed an LS engine swap....the Cruze comes as LT,LTZ, eco, eco LT/LTZ it’s 2020 and I still haven’t seen anybody mention doing an LS swap I’m only mentioning this because you mentioned that you have an ✌🏼LS✌🏼 A couple times so it must not have been a typo.. please fill me in lol


The first gen uses LS,LT, LTZ etc. The second has an L, LS, LT and Premier. LS has nothing to do with an LS engine swap. It's literally the base model trim for the 1st gen and one step up from that on the second gen.


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## Cruze11’RS-ECO (Apr 12, 2020)

I didn’t know that.. idk Why they would call it that and its not REALLY an LS Engine In the vehicle, that would really be something if someone were to make it happen,, Anyways thanks for the update!!


WillL84 said:


> The first gen uses LS,LT, LTZ etc. The second has an L, LS, LT and Premier. LS has nothing to do with an LS engine swap. It's literally the base model trim for the 1st gen and one step up from that on the second gen.


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## Cruze11’RS-ECO (Apr 12, 2020)

MP81 said:


> And here I thought this was pretty common knowledge...


Well that’s what I was asking it gets confusing when someone says they have an LS!! it’s COMMON to ask if your a Cruze enthusiast (and as a person who’s been waiting for someone to perform this swap) if the engine itself is an LS..
Don’t be a smarta** just because someone asked a commonly KNOWN question and for good reason at that..


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Cruze11’RS-ECO said:


> I didn’t know that.. idk Why they would call it that and its not REALLY an LS Engine In the vehicle, that would really be something if someone were to make it happen,, Anyways thanks for the update!!


My 99 and 02 Silverados were both LS models which were 1 step above base. I think back then base was nothing - the emblem on the rear side of the cab just said Silverado on it. Then there was LS and then LT then later on came the LTZ.

This was the base model emblem for the 99-07 (I think) trucks:









And the LS:









But yea, they just refer to trim packages. even the trucks - while V8's - were LT engines not LS engines. I believe only the performance cars got the actual LS engines (Camaro, Corvette, etc)


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Cruze11’RS-ECO said:


> Well that’s what I was asking it gets confusing when someone says they have an LS!! it’s COMMON to ask if your a Cruze enthusiast (and as a person who’s been waiting for someone to perform this swap) if the engine itself is an LS..
> Don’t be a smarta** just because someone asked a commonly KNOWN question and for good reason at that..


GM doesn't (currently) name their trim levels based on the engine.

Basically every car/crossover Chevy makes has an LS trim level. It's not just specific to the Cruze. It's the entry-level (or one step above, if the vehicle has an L base trim level) trim name. Has been for a while. As mentioned above, the trucks in the late '90s had that trim level.

Spark LS
Sonic LS
Malibu LS
Camaro LS
Trax LS
Equinox LS
Traverse LS


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