# CEL P2002 code and Bump/Jump/Clunk from stop when taking foot off brake



## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

TDCruzeLady said:


> Hello
> 
> I am having difficulties with my 2014 Diesel Cruze, just under 47000 miles. Purchased in May 2013, I am the original owner. I have taken my car in at least 4 times recently for problems. I just got a ScanGaugeII with the Cruze Diesel Special Firmware to see if I could see what is going on.
> 
> ...


Ok, where to start. P2002. I
My first Cruze Diesel threw that code in the first week... And it was a bad DPF. Ask your serving dealership to do a full thottle test... If you get smoke out the tail pipe, you have a damaged DPF.. and the do NOT want to eat the cost to replace it, they are generally over $1000 sometimes closer to $2000. If you have soot in your tail pipe.. that is another sign. What is your driving profile, if it's considerable city stop and go.. the emmisions systems on these cars just don't do well with with that type of driving.. 

Now the clunck is a transmission problem. These cars go into free wheel ( Engine disconnected from Transmission via electronic clutch when you come to a stop, this is a fuel saving feature, it avoids waste of churning fluid in the torque converter. In your case it's disengaging harshly.. one thing to consider, are you running original Transmission Fluid? The service interval would have you believe it is a lifetime fill, that is BS. I changed my high mileage car shortly after I got it, about 43k miles and it was some seriously worn out black fluid that looked awful. New fluid GREATLY improved shift behavior. There is an excellent write up in the How to section of the gen 1 Diesel section of this forum. I'd start there and if it still has issues, it's something more serious, and that warranty should cover, in fact I think the standard power train warranty is still active for you. Good luck and post updates as you work to resolve this. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

Lots of soot tells me bad DPF and perhaps a dirty Throttle Body and EGR. Both or all should be cleaned. Brake cleaner or carb cleaner on throttle body and EGR should get rid of the soot issues.


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

TDCruzeLady said:


> Hello
> 
> I am having difficulties with my 2014 Diesel Cruze, just under 47000 miles. Purchased in May 2013, I am the original owner. I have taken my car in at least 4 times recently for problems. I just got a ScanGaugeII with the Cruze Diesel Special Firmware to see if I could see what is going on.
> 
> ...


I have the same problem with the jolt when starting out from a stop. It only happens when the transmission is hot. It has been doing it since about 40k miles (I now have 80k). The dealer does not seem to care since there is no CEL and they cannot duplicate it. If I think it is going to happen I slowly take my foot off the brake without stepping on the accelerator and when I feel the slight bump I know it is engaged and then I accelerate. The problem has not gotten worse with time and seems to be doing it much less now. Let us know if they find out the cause.


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

Thanks for the ideas, I do more city than highway driving now, tho I am trying to get a good highway drive in several times a week. Usually I am to my destinations in less than 1/2 hour, and traffic here in San Diego can be awful, so even tho I am on a freeway it is stop and go. I will try to get them to do the Full Throttle test and get them to replace the transmission fluid. I did notice that when I used the manual shift right after I had a Bump/Jump/Clunk it did not happen. It is so annoying that it is intermittent. I can go several days without it happening, then the next time it will do it with every stop.


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

Well I don't feel so bad that someone else is having the problem of them not being able to duplicate. I may take a long run out of town on the highway before my next visit. One trip to the dealier, they said they could not get it to duplicate, the mechanic took the car out for 45 mins. I got the car back, spent about 15 mins in the freeway, at the first stop it bummped..... argh... I will post what they find out if they ever figure it out. 


Barefeet said:


> I have the same problem with the jolt when starting out from a stop. It only happens when the transmission is hot. It has been doing it since about 40k miles (I now have 80k). The dealer does not seem to care since there is no CEL and they cannot duplicate it. If I think it is going to happen I slowly take my foot off the brake without stepping on the accelerator and when I feel the slight bump I know it is engaged and then I accelerate. The problem has not gotten worse with time and seems to be doing it much less now. Let us know if they find out the cause.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

TDCruzeLady said:


> Well I don't feel so bad that someone else is having the problem of them not being able to duplicate. I may take a long run out of town on the highway before my next visit. One trip to the dealier, they said they could not get it to duplicate, the mechanic took the car out for 45 mins. I got the car back, spent about 15 mins in the freeway, at the first stop it bummped..... argh... I will post what they find out if they ever figure it out.


Before you go for that long drive be sure to have the transmission fluid service done as @MRO1791 suggested. It is NOT a lifetime fill as stated in the owners manual.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Barefeet said:


> I have the same problem with the jolt when starting out from a stop. It only happens when the transmission is hot. It has been doing it since about 40k miles (I now have 80k). The dealer does not seem to care since there is no CEL and they cannot duplicate it. If I think it is going to happen I slowly take my foot off the brake without stepping on the accelerator and when I feel the slight bump I know it is engaged and then I accelerate. The problem has not gotten worse with time and seems to be doing it much less now. Let us know if they find out the cause.


Do you have the original fluid at 80k? If so you'll want to change it ASAP. Mine looked awful at 43k, and it is MUCH improved with now with new fluid.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

MRO1791 said:


> Do you have the original fluid at 80k? If so you'll want to change it ASAP. Mine looked awful at 43k, and it is MUCH improved with now with new fluid.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Which fluid did you use? I am at 45k miles and mine needs changed. Thx


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

I went with Amsoil Fuel Efficient Synthetic ATF and did the 3x change recommended by @XtremeRevolution.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

IndyDiesel said:


> Which fluid did you use? I am at 45k miles and mine needs changed. Thx


I went with the recommended Amsoil, for this Transmission that happens to also be about the cheapest you'll find. You need the 2.5 Gallon. Some gets wasted, it takes a double drain and fill. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

MRO1791 said:


> Do you have the original fluid at 80k? If so you'll want to change it ASAP. Mine looked awful at 43k, and it is MUCH improved with now with new fluid.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


I had the transmission serviced (fluid change) at the dealer at about 60k, however, it didn't make any difference.
One suggestion someone had was to check the brake position sensor, and others have said another said it could make a difference if you brake with the left foot or right. It doesn't matter. If you shift to manual the transmission will engage so there will not be the bump.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

MRO1791 said:


> I went with the recommended Amsoil, for this Transmission that happens to also be about the cheapest you'll find. You need the 2.5 Gallon. Some gets wasted, it takes a double drain and fill.
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


recommended, lol


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Barefeet said:


> I had the transmission serviced (fluid change) at the dealer at about 60k, however, it didn't make any difference.
> One suggestion someone had was to check the brake position sensor, and others have said another said it could make a difference if you brake with the left foot or right. It doesn't matter. If you shift to manual the transmission will engage so there will not be the bump.


I'm always skeptical of any service performed by dealerships... I've had some pretty shoddy work done at several (hence I do all my out of warranty work, and check over any work they do very closely).. it's hard to know if that is part of your issue. I can say my transmission shift performance across the board was significantly improved with a fluid change at 45 K or so, and at that milage the fluid had already gone too far (darker than worn engine oil), I'm considering changing the fluid I'm my other car at about 36k. If you went to 60k.. I'd be concerned that some wear may be part of the issue.

Now if anyone is braking with the left foot.. that is just WRONG on many levels. So I tried that, and guess what? Big shudder and bump as the transmission kicked in.. so that IS a possible cause (theory to practice verified).. Don't brake with the left foot, unless you only have a left foot and also switch that same foot to the accelerator. That delay is what is intended to get the transmission out of free wheel (engagement of torque converter) while the engine is at idle RPM (about 820 RPM).

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

Ok, I'll just take it to the dealer and forget the long ride. Is changing the trans fluid a maintenance thing, or should it be a warranty item? 


Rivergoer said:


> Before you go for that long drive be sure to have the transmission fluid service done as @*MRO1791* suggested. It is NOT a lifetime fill as stated in the owners manual.


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

Well, I am not braking with the left foot, so that is not my problem. The bump happens as I lift my foot off the brake, but before I have put my foot on the accelerator. The Bump has only been happening since July, it is not something that always happened. I probably was at about 43000 miles when it started, I will definitely get the fluid changed.


MRO1791 said:


> I'm always skeptical of any service performed by dealerships... I've had some pretty shoddy work done at several (hence I do all my out of warranty work, and check over any work they do very closely).. it's hard to know if that is part of your issue. I can say my transmission shift performance across the board was significantly improved with a fluid change at 45 K or so, and at that milage the fluid had already gone too far (darker than worn engine oil), I'm considering changing the fluid I'm my other car at about 36k. If you went to 60k.. I'd be concerned that some wear may be part of the issue.
> 
> Now if anyone is braking with the left foot.. that is just WRONG on many levels. So I tried that, and guess what? Big shudder and bump as the transmission kicked in.. so that IS a possible cause (theory to practice verified).. Don't brake with the left foot, unless you only have a left foot and also switch that same foot to the accelerator. That delay is what is intended to get the transmission out of free wheel (engagement of torque converter) while the engine is at idle RPM (about 820 RPM).
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

HI Rivergoer, Thanks for the info on the fluid change What do you mean by 3X Change?? I am totally clueless about autos so sadly I rely on the dealer to do the right thing, so far they have been very good and I have been satisfied. I have another year+ or warranty so I am getting my work done at the dealer. I will be looking for a good diesel mechanic when that is finished unless I decide to get another car. ITH


Rivergoer said:


> I went with Amsoil Fuel Efficient Synthetic ATF and did the 3x change recommended by @*XtremeRevolution*.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

TDCruzeLady said:


> HI Rivergoer, Thanks for the info on the fluid change What do you mean by 3X Change?? I am totally clueless about autos so sadly I rely on the dealer to do the right thing, so far they have been very good and I have been satisfied. I have another year+ or warranty so I am getting my work done at the dealer. I will be looking for a good diesel mechanic when that is finished unless I decide to get another car. ITH


open the drain plug of the trans

itll stop draining at some point, but the design of the transmission, there is still ALOT of fluid in there, unlike engine oil change, where it all or 99% comes out

so for this transmission, you drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill....youve essentially changed MOST of the fluid....you could keep goin and do more, but the amount of OLD fluid you get on subsequent drains isnt worth the $$$ of the new fluid.


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

Thanks...


boraz said:


> open the drain plug of the trans
> 
> itll stop draining at some point, but the design of the transmission, there is still ALOT of fluid in there, unlike engine oil change, where it all or 99% comes out
> 
> so for this transmission, you drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill, drive a bit, drain, fill....youve essentially changed MOST of the fluid....you could keep goin and do more, but the amount of OLD fluid you get on subsequent drains isnt worth the $$$ of the new fluid.


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## TDCruzeLady (Aug 14, 2013)

The dealer has ordered the repair parts for the P2002 Emission issue. They worked with the Chevy Engineers and did the full throttle test. They are replacing both the Catalytic Converter and the DPF. While in the shop I'm having the transmission fluid changed. I've asked them to give me a sample of the fluid they removed, I am assuming when new the fluid is pinkish?? The Cat and DPF repair are covered under warranty, whew! Thanks for all the ideas!!


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

TDCruzeLady said:


> Ok, I'll just take it to the dealer and forget the long ride. Is changing the trans fluid a maintenance thing, or should it be a warranty item?


maintenance.

its called 'lifetime fluid' but under 'severe service' which most cars fall under, it specifies changing at xxx miles, cant remember off hand.

but the trans is a long used item in DOZENS of vehicles, incl saabs...back in 2014 before i bought my car i asked a longtime saab mechanic...(currently owns 13 saabs) he said he had no issues with the trans aside from some EASY to change speed sensors...he recommended 30,000 mile fluid changes, thats what im goin with, everybody is entitled to follow w/e schedule theyre comfortable with.


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## harley01 (May 30, 2018)

Same problem after driving 25 minutes or more


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