# AC Stops Working When the Outside Temp Displays



## stopltracr (Jun 20, 2017)

I've only had my 2012 Cruze 1.4 Turbo about a month. I've had the AC issue a couple of times now. Usually my radio doesn't display the outside temp. When it does display, it shows -40 degrees F and the AC stops working. It still blows air, but the air is warm. Pulling fuse 15 doesn't fix it until the outside temperature stops being displayed. Then I can pull the fuse, reset the AC, and everything goes back to normal. 

Has anyone else had this issue? Where is the sensor for the outside temperature?


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

You're temperature sensor in the left front bumper filler panel has been disconnected. 

Address this and your AC will work again.


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## stopltracr (Jun 20, 2017)

Tomko said:


> You're temperature sensor in the left front bumper filler panel has been disconnected.
> 
> Address this and your AC will work again.


Thanks! I checked and sure enough it was just unplugged. Now everything's working perfectly!


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Every automotive connector has some kind of locking tab, sounds like yours could have broken off, why is a good question. Can secure it by wrapping Scotch #33 electrical tap with a dap of hot glue so it won't fall off.

Some you have to squeeze the tab, others expand it, other even have an extra red, knew guys that designed these things, called them frustrated Chinese puzzle designers. Easy for me to connect them with one hand, but when pulling a dash with some odd 20 connectors, need two to separate them but only can get one hand up there.

AC systems have to disastrous conditions, pressures very with temperature, too high, will blow a cork, too low, do not get proper lubrication flow, compressor will be toast. Early compressors used a sump with a sight glass, no problems, switched to what I call a two cycle engine design where the oil is mixed with the fuel, but refrigerant instead. Not nearly as good, mixing oil with refrigerant reduces the cooling capacity, and oil slugging can wreck a compressor, but cheaper.

So mechanical pressure switches were used, both low side and high side, later this was combined with one high side pressure switch that would only close if the pressures were within the 40-420 psi range. But pressures and temperatures increase proportionate, so a much cheaper thermistor is used, this is what you have. Another advantage, can also display ambient outdoor pressures. Kills the AC compressor clutch circuit below about 36*F. Has a negative temperature coefficient, so if opened would show a very low temperature, no AC.

Had to remove mine when I added fog lights, least this one I could see and used both hands to disconnect it, but sounds like somebody used a crow bar instead.


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