# P0106 - Replaced PCV and Intake Manifold - CEL still on



## kipkap (Mar 11, 2020)

Hey guys,

A little bit ago I had the hissing valve cover and the missing orange dot on the intake manifold on my 2012 Cruze Eco automatic. I replaced both the valve cover and the intake manifold, making sure to put some RTV on the seams.

I'm happy to report that the car feels like it's running fine. I've driven it about 60 miles and I haven't noticed any surging on idle or any other RPM. 

However, I can't get that check engine light to turn off! I've tried clearing it with an OBD scanner, disconnecting the battery, running the car and turning it on and off but I still get P0106. I've also replaced the MAP sensor and checked for air leaks everywhere down the MAP I could but still I haven't had any luck getting that light turned off.

Any suggestions for getting this car back to 100%? Did I miss something or should I keep running the car and hope it goes out on it's own?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

kipkap said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> A little bit ago I had the hissing valve cover and the missing orange dot on the intake manifold on my 2012 Cruze Eco automatic. I replaced both the valve cover and the intake manifold, making sure to put some RTV on the seams.
> 
> ...


Welcome Aboard!

Make sure the connector is clean and dry.

A *P0106* could be caused by:

Bad MAP sensor
Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector
Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem
A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold
Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities)

Read more at: P0106 DTC Code - MAP / Baro Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here


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## Robo911 (Jul 11, 2019)

Had a similar issue, turned out to be the little black hose under the intake came off the nipple.


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## kipkap (Mar 11, 2020)

Robo911 said:


> Had a similar issue, turned out to be the little black hose under the intake came off the nipple.


Did you have to remove the intake to put the hose back on?


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## Robo911 (Jul 11, 2019)

No sir, it's a little 1/4" hose you would have had to remove and reinstall on the new intake. You will need a mirror to see it under the intake, just above the alternator.


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

Robo911 said:


> No sir, it's a little 1/4" hose you would have had to remove and reinstall on the new intake. You will need a mirror to see it under the intake, just above the alternator.


If this hose fell off would it cause a boost leak when testing with a pressure test system? I bought the coolant/boost test kit from cruzekits and I've verified my system is holding boost but it will not boost from the cars power.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

christopher.k.ck said:


> If this hose fell off would it cause a boost leak when testing with a pressure test system? I bought the coolant/boost test kit from cruzekits and I've verified my system is holding boost but it will not boost from the cars power.


If you have followed the instruction for the kit, then the car will hold normal boost. Do you have any modifications to the engine that would cause higher boost pressures?

@XtremeRevolution


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

The kit works fine and the instructions are easy to follow. There are no modifications. I use an obdii reader to measure boost. When I was getting on the highway it hit 15lbs and after that it had no boost. When I got home I inspected for visual air leaks and couldn't find any. I tested the system with the kit and it holds pressure. I used a mirror to check the hose under the intake manifold and it is attached. I disconnected the map sensor and checked for water/dirt in the connection. I decided to clear the codes and now everything is working again. I'm not sure what tripped the codes to cause the power loss but so far it seems good. I'm taking it for a long trip today so we'll see.

P0106
P0236
P2227


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Potential causes for this code, *P0236* , to set are: 

Vacuum supply 
Pinched, collapsed or broken vacuum lines 
Faulty control solenoid 
Faulty PCM
Read more at: P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Range Performance

Causes for this *P2227* code may include: 

Defective or damaged BAP (Barometric Air pressure) sensor 
Defective or damaged electrical connector 
Wiring issue (e.g. open, short, corrosion) 
Electrical short (internal or mechanical) 
Loose electrical connection 
Heat damage 
Mechanical malfunction causing altered BAP readings 
ECM (Engine Control Module) issue
Read more at: P2227 Barometric Pressure Sensor A Range/Performance


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

Thank you for all the information. As I mentioned earlier I could not find any leaks in the system so I cleared the DTC's and the car resumed operating like normal. It's been almost a week of daily driving now and I have put about 600km on the car since the CEL was cleareed and I was unable to reproduce the DTC's. Fingers crossed I guess..


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