# Extremely loud rear shock absorbers.



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

The rear of my car is pretty loud over bumps. Not so much shock noise, or really much in the way of what I would call rattling, but there is suspension impact noise. 1LT with Z-link rear setup.


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

So no one knows of this strut dust cover is supposed to move like this??


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

I'm looking at the pic and trying to understand what it is that's happening based on what you've written.

Your pic looks like the bump stop and rod cover are not positioned at the top of the shock rod, but have fallen down and are resting on the shock body instead... is that correct? Look at this photo, you can see that the bump stop and cover are supposed to be elevated above the shock body so that they do not move with the shock, and the shock rod is not visible:



Does this make sense? Am I understanding the issue correctly?


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

jblackburn said:


> The rear of my car is pretty loud over bumps. Not so much shock noise, or really much in the way of what I would call rattling, but there is suspension impact noise. 1LT with Z-link rear setup.


 When I complained about my Rear end last month as you know I received an entire replacement trailing arm. What does the Z link do, and why are these rear suspensions so basic and poor in the CRUZE? I have given up on the noise even though its worse. Nothing left to replace? Sounds like the Wheel well, e brake cable area. Possibly a shock although not my first thought?


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Eddy Cruze said:


> What does the Z link do, and why are these rear suspensions so *basic and poor* in the CRUZE?


The basic design of the Cruze suspension is sound and shared by many cars. The Z link is just a lateral stabilizer that helps keep the rear located during high load corners.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

snappa, If I was you I would go to the junkyard and get rear shocks for cheap off of a cruze. install them on your car and see what happens. It will take about 30 min a wheel, not even. If that fixes the noise buy new high quality shocks for the car.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Eddy Cruze said:


> When I complained about my Rear end last month as you know I received an entire replacement trailing arm. What does the Z link do, and why are these rear suspensions so basic and poor in the CRUZE? I have given up on the noise even though its worse. Nothing left to replace? Sounds like the Wheel well, e brake cable area. Possibly a shock although not my first thought?


http://www.steeda.com/blog/2013/08/steeda-mustang-watts-link/

^Stuff about the Watts link is applicable. 


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I think this is the same view as yours (the grey metal plate in back). Yeah, shouldn't be seeing that rod unless your car is up on a rack or something

.









Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Checked my LR shock this morning, looks just like yours j.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Interesting thread,

The shock shaft shield (plastic cylinder) is supposed to be retained at the top of the shaft and in so doing, retains the bump stop as jblackburn's photo shows.
In your photo (OP) the whole shootin match is off the retainer and down on the shock body itself.

Try to firmly push the shield (and bumpstop) back up......it may re-engage the shaft retaining step with a snap type feel.
If it won't, and you are under 3/36 warranty, let the dealer either repair it or replace it......but, I really think you will be able to reset the cover as described unless the hole in the shield is damaged.......that would be new shock time.

BTW are both shocks showing this or not?

Rob


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Snappa said:


> Is it normal for these to move so freely and be so loud? Anyone else experience this?


Absolutely not. See the pics above, your bump stop and rod shield should not be falling down like that. If your car is still under warranty and this will be a warranty claim, I would argue to have the rear shocks replaced as well. The purpose of those guards is to keep debris from contacting the shock rod so it doesn't wear out the seals in the top of the shock. If you've been driving for some time with the guards down like that there's a chance debris has caused excessive wear to those seals, which is no fault of yours.

Actually, re-reading your post you say you "manipulated" the guard and bump stop. Did you have to pull them down, or are they falling down on their own? If they are staying in place in the upper position by themselves they are working properly. If this is the case and they are still making noise, well that would be a complaint to bring up with the dealer for sure.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Robby said:


> Interesting thread...


I'm wondering if this could somehow be related to the noises others are noticing with the rear going over bumps... wondering if the shield is "rattling" on the shock body or something like that. Depends if the OP's shield is falling down that way by itself or if they pulled it down fo rthe pic. Either way it's interesting that the described noise is duplicated by manipulating that shield.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

I'm hoping the OP succeeds in repositioning the shield and stop to see if the noise is resolved myself.
Although, I would think this would make more noise outside of the car than inside.

Rob


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

This is exactly whats going on. I don't understand how to reposition the shield. I plan on doing a tire rotation and will do it then, but how? What is the shaft retaining step? Are you referring to a groove or something within the metal portion that bolts directly to the cars body? And yes both shocks are doing this. Wat would cause something like this to even happen?? So no adhesive is involed in this being retained, just snap type fitting?


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

Robby said:


> Interesting thread,
> 
> The shock shaft shield (plastic cylinder) is supposed to be retained at the top of the shaft and in so doing, retains the bump stop as jblackburn's photo shows.
> In your photo (OP) the whole shootin match is off the retainer and down on the shock body itself.
> ...


I didn't pull them down at all, they were already down. When i said manipulating, i meant that i attempted to move them back up and when it went up and back down thats when i heard the noise that i had been hearing for the last few weeks.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Snappa said:


> I didn't pull them down at all, they were already down. When i said manipulating, i meant that i attempted to move them back up and when it went up and back down thats when i heard the noise that i had been hearing for the last few weeks.


Is the car still covered under warranty?


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

Well i have the add on warranty which means 100 dollar deductable i believe. Just attempted to re-seat both of them and they just fall down. Its as if the bump stop in undersized. Could this possibly be caused by a drying out of those? Is there some type of lubricant that can be applied to cause them to swell back to size to they can fit back in tightly?


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

Well i have the add on warranty which means 100 dollar deductable i believe. Just attempted to re-seat both of them and they just fall down. Its as if the bump stop in undersized. Could this possibly be caused by a drying out of those? Is there some type of lubricant that can be applied to cause them to swell back to size to they can fit back in tightly?


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

I would see if your warranty will cover the repair, and as I said before try to push for new shock absorbers as well, though i don't know if they will go for that if there's no proof they've been damaged.

If you can't get the warranty to cover it, replacing those parts doesn't look too expensive:









They're #6 on that diagram, about $12/ea online, and not hard to replace if you have the tools/knowledge. You could try sticking them back into place with some epoxy or similar, but that may not be a robust long-term solution.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

If I was him I would just purchase 2 brand new shocks from online. Cant be that exp.


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

So those bump stops should not be on top of your shocks at ALL. The only reason they would be down like this is either because someone modified the shock (ie lowered) or somebody pulled them out. They are pressed in to place. You should not be able to press them back into their location without considerable strength.

Considering that it would take dang near 1-200lbs of force to drop them out of their mounted location, there is no way you can supply this to get them back up. You will have to disassemble the upper mount to get the bump stops into place. (It is only 2 bolts)

This is the noise you are experiencing. Luckily, an easy fix. Should take you only an hour or two in your driveway. 15 minutes with air tools.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

I see that Rod on both sides although only hear the noise on the right rear?. I am also missing a plastic Rivet from my trunk latch, also Plastic. What keeps it on? There are about 5 Rivets and I found one in the trunk. Good looking Car, really cheap though...


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Not following you Eddy... are you saying your bump stops have fallen down as well? A little confused as to your use of J's picture, what is the red arrow pointing to?


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

I'm saying I have this noise in this area and GM replaced the entire rear end. Did no good and cost GM a bunch of money. I'm trying to learn where my noise is really coming from? Shocks are a logical source of possible noise. the Car has 800 miles on it.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Eddy Cruze said:


> I . Good looking Car, really cheap though...
> 
> View attachment 64345


hillarious and very True !


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

I have attempted to put them back in only to have both side reach their limit (the top of the bump stop made full contact with the inside of where they insert to) So this has to be a case of some type of shrinkage occurring because they slip in too easily and slip out as if no pressing in the world would get them to stay in again. Where are the two bolts located in the upper mount?


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

You can see the two shock mount bolts in jblackburn's original pic:



jblackburn said:


> View attachment 64217


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

There is one other option...

Remove the plastic sleeve. You can buy aftermarket bump stops and shock boots if you are really concerned about bottoming out.

Amazon.com: OES Genuine Strut Bump Stop: Automotive

Amazon.com: Monroe SA1997 Shock-Mate Shock Absorber Boot Kit: Automotive


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

Blue Angel said:


> Checked my LR shock this morning, looks just like yours j.





Blue Angel said:


> You can see the two shock mount bolts in jblackburn's original pic:


as much as I'd like to say its as easy as two bolts, it's not. Infact it might not even be two bolts but rather one... One that's harder to get to that is. That silver mounting brackets is merely what holds the strut in place. Those two bolts are what hold the that part in place itself. The silver strut rod moves freely up and down in that but is held stationary by a bolt that screws onto threads on top of that rod (number 9 in diagram). I'm guessing once that is loose I can compress the strut to release it. But removing those two bolts isn't going to set that assembly free though because of that one. This mean removing material
in trunk to access it.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

With the car jacked up, the tire removed and the suspension at full droop, you will have to jack the suspension up slightly before removing the shock mount because the shock is what keeps the spring from pushing the suspension farther. With that done you should be able to remove the lower bolt from the suspension arm and the two bolts holding the top shock mount in place, this will get the shock out of the car.

The nut on the end of the shaft holding the shock to the mount may be difficult to remove without an impact wrench (it's most likely a crush nut), though there may be a hex on the shaft to put a socket on, I haven't had it apart so I don't know for sure. Whatever you do don't try to hold the shock shaft in a vise or with pliers, you'll damage it.

It shouldn't be a big job if you have the tools and some mechanical ability. If you get stuck you can always put it back together. If you do go through with it take some pics and let us know who it went.


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## KSanders (Feb 7, 2014)

I've been having the same basic noises from the rear of our car. They replaced the shocks, the noise is still there, they refuse to do any more repairs since GM only pays for one warranty repair on the same issue. They keep telling us that they have never heard of this complaint from anyone else. Obviously they should be reading Cruze Talk and other web sites. We're still working with the dealership/customer service, etc and are getting really tired of this.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> I think this is the same view as yours


Y'all need a better view, of a pair of beautiful round things.


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

Well to up date this situation, for the first time in a while the temperature here in northeast ohio was close to 60 degrees. We have been having temps with ranging from -8 to mid twenties for the last few weeks (temps mainly at about 12 to 25 though). Anyway this noise and conditions with these shocks didn't occur till these winter months. Now on this day where it was way warmer the noise completely gone So I checked out the shocks ad now the dust covers don't move around so easily. I drove on bumpy roads and there was no sound. They now just almost sit in place on the rod/shaft. I bet if I tried push on the them hard enough the bump stop would stay seated in the mount. So basically it can get so cold that in some situations these parts contract/shrink? I have since thoroughly cleaned the wheel well area and suspsension. No signs of leaks (I don't know if these are gas filled struts or not) or wear and tear. The bump stops had no dried out look or cracks or wear at all. Everything honestly looked like new. So you mean to tell me that these things are manufactured at such tolerances or maybe some ill manufactured to the point some owners may experience this if temperatures get low enough? I advise anyone in the type of climate I have described to take a look at their strut dust covers if they are experiencing rear end clunking sounds. Even if they look to be in place, keep track of the temperature outside when you hear the noise and also gently see if the slide up and down freely because remember this problem ceased on mine at a warmer temperature.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Funny you mention that... it seems my shck shields are firmly in place, yet the sound I've been hearing is gone with the warmer temps over the past few days. I've even been driving around with my back seats folded down listening for it and I can't hear anything, just the regular clunks going over sharp bumps and those are just the way the car is.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Blue Angel said:


> Funny you mention that... it seems my shck shields are firmly in place, yet the sound I've been hearing is gone with the warmer temps over the past few days. I've even been driving around with my back seats folded down listening for it and I can't hear anything, just the regular clunks going over sharp bumps and those are just the way the car is.


Mine, too, is much less noisy in warmer temps.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

We're expecting a few sub-0F overnight lows in the next week or so, maybe the noises will come back...


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Ive noticed a loud pop once and a while but i thought it was due to suspension twist since im running coilovers. Im always inspecting my suspension just make sure everything is tight and sitting right. suspensions can be tricky and hard to trouble shoot......lube and monthly check ups are a must!! anything aftermarket.......check it!


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Snappa said:


> Well to up date this situation, for the first time in a while the temperature here in northeast ohio was close to 60 degrees. We have been having temps with ranging from -8 to mid twenties for the last few weeks (temps mainly at about 12 to 25 though). Anyway this noise and conditions with these shocks didn't occur till these winter months. Now on this day where it was way warmer the noise completely gone So I checked out the shocks ad now the dust covers don't move around so easily. I drove on bumpy roads and there was no sound. They now just almost sit in place on the rod/shaft. I bet if I tried push on the them hard enough the bump stop would stay seated in the mount. So basically it can get so cold that in some situations these parts contract/shrink? I have since thoroughly cleaned the wheel well area and suspsension. No signs of leaks (I don't know if these are gas filled struts or not) or wear and tear. The bump stops had no dried out look or cracks or wear at all. Everything honestly looked like new. So you mean to tell me that these things are manufactured at such tolerances or maybe some ill manufactured to the point some owners may experience this if temperatures get low enough? I advise anyone in the type of climate I have described to take a look at their strut dust covers if they are experiencing rear end clunking sounds. Even if they look to be in place, keep track of the temperature outside when you hear the noise and also gently see if the slide up and down freely because remember this problem ceased on mine at a warmer temperature.


Mine have been there the entire time, it gets louder than normal in the cold. I can't comment on your roads as I can here in Cuyahoga and Geauga counties. I had my ECO and 2 loaner Cruze(2013 LS and 2014 2LT) made the same sound as I drive down the same strip of road that has different imperfections, dips and bumps. I was kinda disappointed with the sound till I had 2 more Cruze do it to make it "normal" occurrence. Anyone running lowering springs have the same or more pronounced sound(s) all these threads describe?


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> We're expecting a few sub-0F overnight lows in the next week or so, maybe the noises will come back...


It's back... 0F on the way in this morning and a return to that dull rattling noise in the back of the car.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Have any of you considered epoxying the round orange bump stop into the alm mount where it suppose to sit in??


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

I suggest you bring it in to your dealer make them take another look at it its a brand new car and you don't feel safe lol....and no $$.


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## htsob (Jan 4, 2013)

there is another thread on here..."RATTLE IN THE REAR".....no one seems to have a permanent fix for this issue...my rattle was from new....thought it would go away..I was wrong....I have taken apart many things looking for fix from all tools and spare to seat belts...manipulated tension rods...trunk lock and finally (ironically) the trunk sound dampener....i'll try the shock bumper now....because although mine does have a tie strap on, it moves freely up and down, which, I gather it shouldn't be doing.....thanks guys


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## fixmycruze (Feb 4, 2015)

The OEM shocks are at fault. I had all the same problems including replacing the rear axle assy. Replaced with Monroe shocks. The Monroe shocks are longer than OEM and resolved all the clunking and rattling. Rattled shortly after purchasing the 2014 new from the dealer. GM customer care was terrible and no help at all said the clunking at low speed was normal for the car. I said bull!! Short version of a very long story.


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