# Here's what it looks like under my 202K mile diesel Cruze



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

The yellow highlighted part is pooled oil. The red circle more clearly shows where the oil is coming from. Any ideas?


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## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

Get a can of Junk brand engine cleaner and spray it all over under your engine. Then take it thru a car was to degrease everything. Too hard to see without more light on everything.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Are you able to get under there during the day to maybe get a better shot? Was hard to tell where it was coming from, though having not been underneath ours, yet (perks of buying it new?), I might not be able to theorize exactly where you were looking at.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

That was like watching some kind of black ops or WWII movie. 

The blair witch project: diesel edition.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I am going to try to get under there to get a better look in the next couple days. Nothing's hitting the ground yet though.


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## fubar121 (Feb 27, 2017)

Hard to see but the camera did pick it up.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Can't see anything on the video.. however found a leak on my wife's car when doing my first oil change... Drain plug was not on tight.. so much for GM service. I only removed the plug since I had a new sealing washer, the old one was solid, new one had integrated rubber seal, the new one was OEM GM part.. that was also interesting. Another thing, with your mileage, and number of oil changes, residual on the filter drain spout could be leaving some oil behind. It's hard to get in there and wipe down that spout. You aren't seeing any oil use when you check oil level, correct?​ 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## MOTO13 (Mar 26, 2014)

After you clean it, spray the area with any brand of aerosol athletes foot powder. The oil will leave a clear trail for you.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

MRO1791 said:


> Can't see anything on the video.. however found a leak on my wife's car when doing my first oil change... Drain plug was not on tight.. so much for GM service. I only removed the plug since I had a new sealing washer, the old one was solid, new one had integrated rubber seal, the new one was OEM GM part.. that was also interesting. Another thing, with your mileage, and number of oil changes, residual on the filter drain spout could be leaving some oil behind. It's hard to get in there and wipe down that spout. You aren't seeing any oil use when you check oil level, correct?​
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


It used about 1/2 quart in 12500 miles which is about what it's always done. I was wondering about the oil filter area, that's a good suggestion. 



MOTO13 said:


> After you clean it, spray the area with any brand of aerosol athletes foot powder. The oil will leave a clear trail for you.


Good idea. I've heard of that before but had forgotten.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> It used about 1/2 quart in 12500 miles which is about what it's always done. I was wondering about the oil filter area, that's a good suggestion.


I've been fighting an oil leak on the Cobalt for a couple years now - and I'm willing to bet it's coming from the oil filter cap. I forgot to tighten it down during an oil change in '14, and it lost a quart very quickly. It's not been losing as much as of late, but it still leaks. It's the original cap (116k miles) so it's very possible that it not being tightened down and heat-cycled warped it or something like that.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

I noticed a decent amount of oily accumulation on the bottom of my Diesel (about 70,000 miles) last oil change, but didn't have time to investigate further. I also don't have anything hitting the ground. The accumulation is near where the engine and transmission join up, and everything around the perimeter of the the oil pan feels dry. So, I'm guessing either rear main or transmission is leaking, since the accumulation is on the opposite end of the engine from the oil filter. I'm also getting some rough downshifts like before I switched to the AMSOil fluid, which makes me wonder if transmission is low. Once I get my Jeep back together and out of the garage (in the middle of a month-long brake, suspension, and front end overhaul on it, along with draining and replacing every fluid in it front to rear), I need to pull the Diesel in and check the trans level, pull the aero panel, and investigate the leak. I figure I've got another 30k and 18 months of powertrain warranty left, so I don't have to be in a hurry to get to it.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

Looks like it could be the oil cooler seals. I beleave that is the oil cooler you are looking at. If so. May as well replace the cooler while replacing the seals (its like $140 or something like that)


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## JRB'sOilburningCruze (Feb 25, 2015)

Is the leak right above and to the sensor sticking out of the block? Don't know if that is the coolant temp sensor or oil pressure sensor. I'd pull the cover off the top of the engine and really inspect around the valve cover. I'd also really check around the oil filter assembly. And as far as the transmission lines, pretty common GM cooling line issue. Those crimps fail. My Silverado experienced that as well as my son's S10. The S10's oil cooler lines did the same thing. Thankfully they were easy to replace. All in all good info in your video. As my car racks up the miles, I'll keep an eye on the backside of the engine & trans lines.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

revjpeterson said:


> I noticed a decent amount of oily accumulation on the bottom of my Diesel (about 70,000 miles) last oil change, but didn't have time to investigate further. I also don't have anything hitting the ground. The accumulation is near where the engine and transmission join up, and everything around the perimeter of the the oil pan feels dry. So, I'm guessing either rear main or transmission is leaking, since the accumulation is on the opposite end of the engine from the oil filter. I'm also getting some rough downshifts like before I switched to the AMSOil fluid, which makes me wonder if transmission is low.


 The amsoil likely has different friction coeficent then the OE fluid, and it just took a while for the trans to relearn. I'm not a fan of "universal" ATF. that's one area where it's best to use what the manufacture Calls for.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

revjpeterson said:


> I noticed a decent amount of oily accumulation on the bottom of my Diesel (about 70,000 miles) last oil change, but didn't have time to investigate further. I also don't have anything hitting the ground. The accumulation is near where the engine and transmission join up, and everything around the perimeter of the the oil pan feels dry. So, I'm guessing either rear main or transmission is leaking, since the accumulation is on the opposite end of the engine from the oil filter. I'm also getting some rough downshifts like before I switched to the AMSOil fluid, which makes me wonder if transmission is low. Once I get my Jeep back together and out of the garage (in the middle of a month-long brake, suspension, and front end overhaul on it, along with draining and replacing every fluid in it front to rear), I need to pull the Diesel in and check the trans level, pull the aero panel, and investigate the leak. I figure I've got another 30k and 18 months of powertrain warranty left, so I don't have to be in a hurry to get to it.


How will you check the trans fluid level? I was thinking the best method might be to do a drain and fill, filling with the well documented amount on this forum. 



jkhawaii said:


> Looks like it could be the oil cooler seals. I beleave that is the oil cooler you are looking at. If so. May as well replace the cooler while replacing the seals (its like $140 or something like that)


Thanks for the tip. I will take a closer look at that too.



JRB'sOilburningCruze said:


> Is the leak right above and to the sensor sticking out of the block? Don't know if that is the coolant temp sensor or oil pressure sensor. I'd pull the cover off the top of the engine and really inspect around the valve cover. I'd also really check around the oil filter assembly. And as far as the transmission lines, pretty common GM cooling line issue. Those crimps fail. My Silverado experienced that as well as my son's S10. The S10's oil cooler lines did the same thing. Thankfully they were easy to replace. All in all good info in your video. As my car racks up the miles, I'll keep an eye on the backside of the engine & trans lines.


Yes - to the right and above the sensor. 

It's been pretty cold here lately so I've been putting it off for a while, but I do plan to spend some time going over the car. I think I will opt for replacing the transmission cooler lines with OEM, rather than some of the solutions I've read about. I would do a drain and refill at that point to adjust the level. 

Does anybody know: How likely are the transmission cooler lines to just suddenly fail? Do they just simply leak?


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

diesel said:


> How will you check the trans fluid level? I was thinking the best method might be to do a drain and fill, filling with the well documented amount on this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If it is indeed the same failure mode as the Duramax trucks, they generally just weep/leak until the owner is frustrated enough to change them. I'm sure they could burst/fail but it is not something I have heard of.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> How will you check the trans fluid level? I was thinking the best method might be to do a drain and fill, filling with the well documented amount on this forum.


Isn't there a check/sight plug in the trans? While level and running, fill it until fluid starts to come out, and that's the proper level.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

diesel said:


> How will you check the trans fluid level? I was thinking the best method might be to do a drain and fill, filling with the well documented amount on this forum.





MP81 said:


> Isn't there a check/sight plug in the trans? While level and running, fill it until fluid starts to come out, and that's the proper level.


That's pretty much my plan. Pull it in to the garage warm and pull the check plug and fill plug. If I add fluid and nothing comes out, I'll know it was low. If I add fluid and it comes right out the check plug, I'll know it was full.


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## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

Get the trans super hot, pull the small drain plug, no more than 1/2 too 3/4 of a quart should come out. If less 

you know it was low.Replace plug and add 3/4 of a quart. This was told to me by a volkswagon tech.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Chris Tobin said:


> If it is indeed the same failure mode as the Duramax trucks, they generally just weep/leak until the owner is frustrated enough to change them. I'm sure they could burst/fail but it is not something I have heard of.


That's good to know. I will keep an eye under the car to make sure it doesn't start hitting the ground before I get around to replacing.



MP81 said:


> Isn't there a check/sight plug in the trans? While level and running, fill it until fluid starts to come out, and that's the proper level.


No, there's no way other than possibly hooking up to the GM dealership computer that I know of. When you pull the drain plug as outlined in the DIY fluid change, there's a known quantity that comes out. That's the amount to put back in. 



NHRA said:


> Get the trans super hot, pull the small drain plug, no more than 1/2 too 3/4 of a quart should come out. If less
> 
> you know it was low.Replace plug and add 3/4 of a quart. This was told to me by a volkswagon tech.


That could be right, but I don't think anybody on the forum ever measured what comes out when the small plug is removed, so you can't be sure.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

I find transmissions without dipsticks kind of frustrating to be honest. I don't like guessing how much fluid to replace with, can understand when changing the lines how that could be confusing.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> No, there's no way other than possibly hooking up to the GM dealership computer that I know of. When you pull the drain plug as outlined in the DIY fluid change, there's a known quantity that comes out. That's the amount to put back in.


If the car is at operating temp, running and level, there should not be any fluid that comes out. That would imply its been overfilled.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Yes you can check the fluid level properly if you have a scan Guage, it's covered in my transmission service thread

The Volvo method includes heating fluid to certain point, removing check plug and add till it comes out then replacing plug and topping off with another certain amount. The Gm method was similar


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

MP81 said:


> If the car is at operating temp, running and level, there should not be any fluid that comes out. That would imply its been overfilled.


The plug is on the bottom, though, so I think that there's a certain amount that it would be missing when nothing comes out with plug removed.



KpaxFAQ said:


> Yes you can check the fluid level properly if you have a scan Guage, it's covered in my transmission service thread
> 
> The Volvo method includes heating fluid to certain point, removing check plug and add till it comes out then replacing plug and topping off with another certain amount. The Gm method was similar


I forgot about those details, I will have to review that. Seems like the Volvo method is sort of what I mention above in reply to @MP81


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Must be because it's an Aisin trans, rather than a GM/Ford unit? Those have a horizontal sight plug you simply remove while running and level (and at operating temp), and add fluid until it comes out of the hole, then put the plug back in. That's how I did my Cobalt's 4T45E, it was really easy.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

MP81 said:


> Must be because it's an Aisin trans, rather than a GM/Ford unit? Those have a horizontal sight plug you simply remove while running and level (and at operating temp), and add fluid until it comes out of the hole, then put the plug back in. That's how I did my Cobalt's 4T45E, it was really easy.


Yeah similar idea but of course they had to complicate it...


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## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

MP81 said:


> If the car is at operating temp, running and level, there should not be any fluid that comes out. That would imply its been overfilled.


When I changed my fluid all most half a quart came out of it and the trans lines had been leaking for some time already. If your trans fluid is not 160-175 degrees less will come out or maybe none at all because of expansion.


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## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOfjTW6b6AU


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

Clean it off really well and add some of this AC Delco dye to the oil, then look at it a few days later with a black light. It should show you where your leak is coming from.

I also spray down the oil filter area with Super Tech carb cleaner from Walmart. Works great, dries fast.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

NHRA said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOfjTW6b6AU


The part at the end where they talk about the +/- 0.5 L tolerance makes me feel better about my trans cooler lines leaking. 



BlueTopaz said:


> Clean it off really well and add some of this AC Delco dye to the oil, then look at it a few days later with a black light. It should show you where your leak is coming from.
> 
> I also spray down the oil filter area with Super Tech carb cleaner from Walmart. Works great, dries fast.


Thanks for the tip. That's a great idea. I see they say it's safe for diesel engines, but I wonder if it's DPF safe. I will look into this more.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

diesel said:


> Thanks for the tip. That's a great idea. *I see they say it's safe for diesel engines, but I wonder if it's DPF safe.* I will look into this more.


Safe for XXXXX engines would refer to internally when using it as a carburetor cleaner it will be ingested by the engine. He was recommend using it externally as a degreaser. In which case it is safe for all engines, but you may want to be careful for painted surfaces. Personally, I prefer to use brake cleaner over carb cleaner...


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Be careful with getting true engine degreaser on a blacktop driveway. The solvent in the degreaser will attack your driveway surface. Use brake clean with cardboard.


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## bostonboy (Apr 8, 2015)

I like using a leak dye detector & my trusty black light flash light. Also try & clean area so you can pinpoint it quicker & better. I get packs from eBay for cheap & always have spares when a friend comes over.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Chris Tobin said:


> Safe for XXXXX engines would refer to internally when using it as a carburetor cleaner it will be ingested by the engine. He was recommend using it externally as a degreaser. In which case it is safe for all engines, but you may want to be careful for painted surfaces. Personally, I prefer to use brake cleaner over carb cleaner...


I was talking about the dye that you put in the oil. I like the idea, but hesitant as to how it may affect the emissions components.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> I was talking about the dye that you put in the oil. I like the idea, but hesitant as to how it may affect the emissions components.


Your oil shouldn't be near the emissions components, if it is - you're burning it.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

MP81 said:


> Your oil shouldn't be near the emissions components, if it is - you're burning it.


With sound logic like that, I take it you don't use low saps oil then


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

What little bit of dye that goes in I wouldn't think would hurt anything. Plus I would also think that they would state on the bottle if it wasn't for diesel engines with emissions.


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## mkohan (Dec 19, 2015)

I'd be very leering of adding anything to the oil. With 200K you can expect a little leaking. do you need to add oil between changes?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

BlueTopaz said:


> What little bit of dye that goes in I wouldn't think would hurt anything. Plus I would also think that they would state on the bottle if it wasn't for diesel engines with emissions.


Most likely you're right, but I've gone 202K without any major emissions issues and I think it's partly because I have always used the proper oil. Even a little bit of something other than proper oil making its way past the rings makes me nervous. 



mkohan said:


> I'd be very leering of adding anything to the oil. With 200K you can expect a little leaking. do you need to add oil between changes?


So far, no. I change every 15K and it doesn't require me to add any in between changes. I think for now, I am just going to keep an eye on it. 

We are supposed to have some warm, dry weather this weekend. I might get under there a bit more and see if I can figure anything out.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> So far, no. I change every 15K and it doesn't require me to add any in between changes. I think for now, I am just going to keep an eye on it.
> 
> We are supposed to have some warm, dry weather this weekend. I might get under there a bit more and see if I can figure anything out.


Then you're not really burning any, and blow-by still would appear to be negligible. I wouldn't worry about a little something in the oil - you could also do it right before changing the oil if you are still worried.

What oil do you use? AMSoil? We're coming up on another oil change, and I think it's time for me to finally make the switch over to full synthetic and do it myself, especially since it won't cost much more than a regular oil change at the dealer (even with their $40 pricing for it), and I'll have to do it half as often - saving money (and time) overall.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

MP81 said:


> Then you're not really burning any, and blow-by still would appear to be negligible. I wouldn't worry about a little something in the oil - you could also do it right before changing the oil if you are still worried.
> 
> What oil do you use? AMSoil? We're coming up on another oil change, and I think it's time for me to finally make the switch over to full synthetic and do it myself, especially since it won't cost much more than a regular oil change at the dealer (even with their $40 pricing for it), and I'll have to do it half as often - saving money (and time) overall.


Look into the Penzoil Euro L dexos2 oil available at many Walmarts for around $22.xx for a 5-quart jug (there is a thread on it). I haven't used it yet, but bought 2 jugs for my next two oil changes. I spoke with an oil analysis lab owner, that told me it is a good oil and I will do mid cycle analysis on it to make sure the engine is happy with it. But several others have said they are using it, and the price is great!!!


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

I'm only at 64% before analysis. Will take a while here. I have two kits for the next two oil changes.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

MP81 said:


> What oil do you use? AMSoil?


Yes I've been using the Amsoil Signature Series for a while now and very happy with it.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> Yes I've been using the Amsoil Signature Series for a while now and very happy with it.


Delco filter?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

MP81 said:


> Delco filter?


Opel 55577033.

I bought a bunch of them on Ebay when I first got my Cruze.


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