# major electrical problems after amp/sub install. 2012 cruze



## Landon3185 (May 20, 2013)

i recently installed an amplifier and subwoofers in my buddy's cruze. i installed two kicker cvr10's with a 500 watt jl audio amp. i hooked a 4ga power wire straight to the battery, the ground wire is hooked up to a body ground in the trunk, the power wire is hooked to the 12v outlet in the back seat. it has the factory stereo so i hooked up the line converter to the speaker in the right rear door. whenever i turn it up loud the dash lights start cutting off and everything goes nuts. i added a 2 farad capacitor and checked the battery and the problem remains. if i disconnect the amp power wire it goes away. i thought the capacitor would eliminate the current draw problem. today i turned it off and when i got back in it it had no power at all as if the battery were completely removed. after about 10 minutes it started right up and everything was normal. ive installed many stereo systems and i am pretty knowledgeable about vehicle electronics. i just dont know much about this car and im trying to decide if this is completely related to the amp/sub install or if the amp is shining a light on an underlying problem.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Go to the "how to" and look at the audio install. It's stickied 


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Btw there's no need for a cap for a 500 watt amp.


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## Landon3185 (May 20, 2013)

the reason i installed the cap is because it was obvious that current draw was causing the concern.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

What is this power outlet you talk of in the trunk

Pics would help also
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## Landon3185 (May 20, 2013)

not a power outlet in the trunk. its a power outlet on the back of the center console to allow rear seat passengers to plug in a phone charger. thats where i hooked the remote power wire.


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## Landon3185 (May 20, 2013)

i read the entire "how-to" thread about audio install. i did everything as it said except instead of using the PAC interface kit i used a regular PAC line converter.


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## Tjax (Sep 14, 2012)

Maybe the "big 3" update as I've seen others talk about is needed. 


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## Dieselard (Jan 2, 2012)

I have been running an alpine 1000w RMS amp, with a JL 300/4 amp. I dont have any lights flickering or anything out of the ordinary. You must have a grounding problem, or too small of a gauge wire. 
I am using a PAC LOC but before I wasnt, and was running 500rms and never had a problem.


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## louierocko (Mar 26, 2013)

It sounds to me like the charging port connection is the problem. The remote wire needs to be connected to a switched 12 volt source. You can use a fuse tap to get power from an unused switched source in the fuse panel. Another option is using a Line Out Convertor with a signal sensing remote turn on.


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## caughron01 (Mar 25, 2013)

Sorry if its been mentioned im on my cellphone. 
Have you checked the wires you hooked to the speaker to make sure they are secure and not touching something?

If thats not it it sounds like where you hooked the remote wire could be the problem.

Have you ruled out maybe a bad amp?



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## Stevear22 (Mar 6, 2013)

Try hooking the trigger wire up differently. In the fuse panel in the car there is a spare accessory slot tap into that. I don't know how true it is, but I've heard majority of the stuff is all Data.. Not actually 12v. Could all be like 5v-ref so when your draw from that your screwing up the signal. I guess you could also start by disconnecting that trigger wire if the problem doesn't continue then run a new one right to the fuse panel and try that out. 


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## Jamessteel (May 20, 2014)

does anyone have a solution to this?? I am having the exact same issue. My remote wire is up in the fuse box. The dash lights go crazy and the car shutters on ocasion. Thanks


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Jamessteel , we would need to know exactly how you wired up your amp to give you an educated guess to your concern . Are you utilizing a Line out converter ? 

There is a 12 volts + at the rear of your console !


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## dthomp2366 (Feb 21, 2012)

Landon3185 said:


> i recently installed an amplifier and subwoofers in my buddy's cruze. i installed two kicker cvr10's with a 500 watt jl audio amp. i hooked a 4ga power wire straight to the battery, the ground wire is hooked up to a body ground in the trunk, the power wire is hooked to the 12v outlet in the back seat. it has the factory stereo so i hooked up the line converter to the speaker in the right rear door. whenever i turn it up loud the dash lights start cutting off and everything goes nuts. i added a 2 farad capacitor and checked the battery and the problem remains. if i disconnect the amp power wire it goes away. i thought the capacitor would eliminate the current draw problem. today i turned it off and when i got back in it it had no power at all as if the battery were completely removed. after about 10 minutes it started right up and everything was normal. ive installed many stereo systems and i am pretty knowledgeable about vehicle electronics. i just dont know much about this car and im trying to decide if this is completely related to the amp/sub install or if the amp is shining a light on an underlying problem.


Can you post a picture of the ground? Did you sand off the paint before grounding? Also can you post a picture of the power wire connection to the battery?


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