# Been changing my engine oil when the oil remaining life hit 20%.



## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Change it. If you're running the AC Delco Dexos 1 oil you should be changing at 40% left. Mobile 1 should be changed at 20%.


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## Private Cruze (Jul 16, 2013)

*Why oh why (OLM)?*



obermd said:


> Change it. If you're running the AC Delco Dexos 1 oil you should be changing at 40% left. Mobile 1 should be changed at 20%.


Why is there an OLM if everyone is second-guessing it?

If you think your car has been driven in extra hard or dusty conditions, maybe do it early.

I use full synthetic and change it between 5-8% life remaining, but I do all highway.

86K in less than two years.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The OLM in the 2011 and 2012 Cruze is seriously optimistic. GM changed the OLM software for 2013 resulting in a far more accurate reading. We have had several members send their used oil off for analysis and the numbers I posted for the 2011 and 2012 Cruze are the numbers that reflect when the oil is no longer capable of protecting the engine in sever conditions. Before you say "I don't drive in severe conditions", the definition of severe is the average rush hour, or short trips, extended periods of high RPM, etc. Basically 90% of drivers world wide should be using the "severe driving conditions" maintenance schedule.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Strictly Mobile One with that green dexos label on it and Delco filters.

Good point on the owners manual recommendations, 0% on the oil life remaining plus another 600 miles grace period.

Reason why I chose 20%, oil was getting rather black at that point, with more breaking in, a heck of a lot cleaner. Besides the temperature now is -11*F, suppose to be in the 30's next week. Baby, its cold outside.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Going another 500 miles or so won't hurt a thing. I'd be just as inclined as you to wait til the weather's better - I've worked on my cars in 10-20F weather and couldn't feel my hands for a very long time afterwards.

I usually change at 15-20%. I use the M1 Extended Performance in my Cruze, but found it was OK to go another 1500-2000 miles over an 8000 mi change interval. I've done testing on the regular M1 too (not in the Cruze) and it was good up til 8000 mi or so.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, winds from the SW gets to as high as 45*F up here, but from the NW, below zero. But sure not coming from the Arctic, according to Inconvenient Truth, polar bears up there are getting sun burnt. Has to be from Siberia, its always the Russians causing us problems.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

I typically drive 70% highway and even the dealer fill dexos synthetic blend would be a nice amber color at 6,000 miles, never black. I have mobil 1 in the car now & at 6,000 miles looks just as good, the OLM on my 2012 is showing 44% still. I will keep changing my oil with mobil 1 every 4 months/7500miles, though in the winter I sometimes do a change at 3months/3000miles since I drive a ton more short trips with a cold engine. 

Sure you need oil analysis to really tell anything about the oil quality/life expectancy, I would think since the oil is still retaining some of its original amber color its not completely broke down yet. One problem with oil analysis is every person needs to send in there own oil since its really based on ones own driving habits, everyones results will be as varied as our MPG.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

You guys are going to look at me like I'm crazy when, on my next oil change, I wait till 12k miles before sending the oil for testing analysis...without draining it.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

XtremeRevolution said:


> You guys are going to look at me like I'm crazy when, on my next oil change, I wait till 12k miles before sending the oil for testing analysis...without draining it.


Honestly as good as my oil looks at 6,000 miles with 70% highway, with analysis I would have no issues going past 10,000 miles. With mobil 1 & no analysis on my 3800 I changed the oil every 10,000 miles and sold that car with more than 260,000 miles on it. 

I would be interested to see your results.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

spacedout said:


> Honestly as good as my oil looks at 6,000 miles with 70% highway, with analysis I would have no issues going past 10,000 miles. With mobil 1 & no analysis on my 3800 I changed the oil every 10,000 miles and sold that car with more than 260,000 miles on it.
> 
> I would be interested to see your results.


I am hoping for 18-20k miles with my driving conditions and a true synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic anymore. Used to be, but not anymore. I will be changing the Wix oil filter every 6-8k, I haven't decided on the exact interval yet.


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> You guys are going to look at me like I'm crazy when, on my next oil change, I wait till 12k miles before sending the oil for testing analysis...without draining it.


 Since the car is under warranty I follow the OLM. Also since I'm running non-Dexo licensed Amsoil I send in a sample to Blackstone when I change the oil. Currently I'm at 20% OLM with 7K miles on the oil. I'm not worried about warranty coverage with the oil and I like information hence the oil reports however if there is an issue I have data to back me up.

What has your TBN been at with 10K+ mile drain intervals?
Our second oil change with 6,400 miles had a TBN of 2.2, we are just over 15K on the car now.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Diesel Dan said:


> Since the car is under warranty I follow the OLM. Also since I'm running non-Dexo licensed Amsoil I send in a sample to Blackstone when I change the oil. Currently I'm at 20% OLM with 7K miles on the oil. I'm not worried about warranty coverage with the oil and I like information hence the oil reports however if there is an issue I have data to back me up.
> 
> What has your TBN been at with 10K+ mile drain intervals?
> Our second oil change with 6,400 miles had a TBN of 2.2, we are just over 15K on the car now.


The OLM is a suggestion, not a requirement, and the dealer cannot void your warranty for exceeding the OLM with an oil that far exceeds the OE specifications. 

I only became an Amsoil dealer 2 months ago, which was a week after I changed my oil, so it will be some time in January when I put Amsoil in. What oil specifically are you using, and what oil did you use on your 2nd oil change?


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

NickD said:


> That it just hit now. Checked the oil, still at the full mark and would called the color a medium tan. Ha, with the recent snow, sub-zero temperatures and the underneath of the car loaded with road salt.
> 
> Think this one time will wait a couple of more weeks.


what did the oil taste like?


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> What oil specifically are you using, and what oil did you use on your 2nd oil change?


5w-30, SSO.
Changed out the factory fill at 2500 miles, second fill was 5w-30 SSO for 6400 miles, third fill is 5w-30 SSO with 7K+ so far and 20% remaining.


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## Bullet (Aug 9, 2013)

Strange thing is that our recommendations for oil change is 30000 km here and 15000 km for You there. Why it is so? Should be similar engines, though assembled in different plants. Well, I have 1,8 liter and most of You 1,4T, but the recommendation is the same for both engines.



NickD said:


> .... Has to be from Siberia, its always the Russians causing us problems.


Oh, You are so far away from them, we are their neighbours and they our dear enemies. People are people in every country, politicians are spoiling any country.

I can assure You that the Arctic is still cold, though it's not like it used to be earlier. Not enough ice for Polar Bears for moving and prey on seals. But in the coast of Arctic Sea it still feels quite cold, and the water is cold even in summer. I've been swimming there and it is not a similar pleasure than here in "south".


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Bullet said:


> Strange thing is that our recommendations for oil change is 30000 km here and 15000 km for You there. Why it is so? Should be similar engines, though assembled in different plants. Well, I have 1,8 liter and most of You 1,4T, but the recommendation is the same for both engines.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You guys have better quality oils. All but a small few of the oils we can buy here aren't even true synthetics. 

Sent from mobile.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Diesel Dan said:


> 5w-30, SSO.
> Changed out the factory fill at 2500 miles, second fill was 5w-30 SSO for 6400 miles, third fill is 5w-30 SSO with 7K+ so far and 20% remaining.


A TBN of 2.2 is what concerns me. Any idea why it was so low? That oil starts with a TBN of 12 which is far higher than other oils on the market. 

Sent from mobile.


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## Bullet (Aug 9, 2013)

The recommendation for us is also saying Dexron II for us and Dexron I for You.
And GM original oil.


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> A TBN of 2.2 is what concerns me. Any idea why it was so low?


That is a good question for which I do not have an answer.
For comparison I run Rotella T 15W-40 in my 6.5L turbo Diesel and ran the last oil change 12 months and 4500 miles and had a 7.4 TBN reading.
The factory fill on the Cruze showed a 3.3 TBN reading at 2500 miles.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Engine oil analysis seems to have an average price range in the 40 buck range, some DIY kits are available.

Do you feel I should pay 40 bucks to learn if I can get another 500 or so miles off my existing oil? Also provide additional information like what kind of contaminates are in your oil, like coolant or excessive blowby. But these have other telltale signs, like higher than normal cylinder leak down tests, coolant system pressure test, increased oil consumption, and one sniff of the exhaust tells me instantly coolant is getting into the combustion chamber.

They tell you this may save costly repairs in the future, someone would have to explain this to me, if they detect contaminates, you already have a problem. And repairs are required right now!

Ha, been checking my oil level and color for the last 60 years, works for me, and the key reason for getting rid of vehicles have never been engine problems. But with the rest of the vehicle going back to its natural state, iron oxide. 

Now will I get into trouble with my powertrain warranty for changing my oil at the 20% level as opposed to the 0% level as recommended in my owners manual? Maybe I should check this out with my dealer.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

NickD said:


> Engine oil analysis seems to have an average price range in the 40 buck range, some DIY kits are available.
> 
> Do you feel I should pay 40 bucks to learn if I can get another 500 or so miles off my existing oil?


I have done analysis in the past, my girlfriend hit a 4x4 piece of wood at 55mph that took out the aluminum oil pan on our 04 cavalier. I shut the engine down ASAP(within seconds), to try avoiding any further damage. Looked under car and had a hole the size of my fist in the front of the pan. 

Dealer charged me $500 to install a new pan(tow & oil change included), I changed oil again at 150miles and took a sample and sent to blackstone. I also took a sample at 3,000 miles just to make sure there was no excessive wear happening from all the aluminum pan shrapnel. I would have made a claim on my insurance if their was more internal engine damage & needed some way to check, oil analysis was the answer. I traded car 20,000 miles later just to be safe the engine life was not hurt by the incident(I also wanted a cruze). 

I agree though in most instances oil analysis is not worth the money. If it cost 3/4 or more of the oil change cost why not just change the oil?


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

NickD said:


> Also provide additional information like what kind of contaminates are in your oil, like coolant or excessive blowby. But these have other telltale signs, like higher than normal cylinder leak down tests, coolant system pressure test, increased oil consumption, and one sniff of the exhaust tells me instantly coolant is getting into the combustion chamber.
> 
> They tell you this may save costly repairs in the future, someone would have to explain this to me, if they detect contaminates, you already have a problem. And repairs are required right now!
> 
> Ha, been checking my oil level and color for the last 60 years, works for me,


On some 3.8L and 4.3L GM engines I have found coolant leaking into the oil from the lower intake manifold gaskets via UOA. No noticeable coolant loss and no change in color for the oil, a UOA will catch trace amounts of anti-freeze before major gasket failure.

On my 6.5TD now that I know the oil holds up to 12 month intervals that is what I'm going to use.


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## Nobody (Feb 12, 2012)

****, after reading this it makes me wonder if I should have my oil less often. I run Strictly Mobile One dexos label and Delco filters and I change my oil at 50%.

Seems dark enough at that point, certainly isn't a light brown.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

in my two jeeps in my sig

i change the oil once a year, regardless of mileage, max has been 19,000 miles

i use the cheapest 5w30 dino oil i can find and cheapest filter, most often GASP fram

somehow my motors havent blown up


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

boraz said:


> in my two jeeps in my sig
> 
> i change the oil once a year, regardless of mileage, max has been 19,000 miles
> 
> ...


The 4.0L has been showing signs of camshaft failure due to the removal of ZDDP in the US. Has Canada removed ZDDP in its oil as well?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Nobody said:


> ****, after reading this it makes me wonder if I should have my oil less often. I run Strictly Mobile One dexos label and Delco filters and I change my oil at 50%.
> 
> Seems dark enough at that point, certainly isn't a light brown.


You can definitely run longer on that change interval.

Oil color is a useless indicator. Oil is supposed to suspend particles, that's what makes it turn dark. The filter gets out the harmful junk.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Diesel Dan said:


> The 4.0L has been showing signs of camshaft failure due to the removal of ZDDP in the US. Has Canada removed ZDDP in its oil as well?


30 something years later, something is actually killing the AMC I6.:blowup:


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

spacedout said:


> I have done analysis in the past, my girlfriend hit a 4x4 piece of wood at 55mph that took out the aluminum oil pan on our 04 cavalier. I shut the engine down ASAP(within seconds), to try avoiding any further damage. Looked under car and had a hole the size of my fist in the front of the pan.
> 
> Dealer charged me $500 to install a new pan(tow & oil change included), I changed oil again at 150miles and took a sample and sent to blackstone. I also took a sample at 3,000 miles just to make sure there was no excessive wear happening from all the aluminum pan shrapnel. I would have made a claim on my insurance if their was more internal engine damage & needed some way to check, oil analysis was the answer. I traded car 20,000 miles later just to be safe the engine life was not hurt by the incident(I also wanted a cruze).
> 
> I agree though in most instances oil analysis is not worth the money. If it cost 3/4 or more of the oil change cost why not just change the oil?


I get the oil testing analysis kits through Amsoil for $25.75, and that includes return shipping via either UPS or post office. My oil changes moving forward will be $40 and I can go 15k miles on them or more with oil testing analysis. 

The idea here is that I will know for sure how long I can go on the oil moving forward. I plan to get one oil testing analysis done the first time to make sure my interval is safe and them every other year after that to make sure I'm not missing something in the engine. What you find out can save you a lot more than the cost of an oil change.

Sent from mobile.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Also the bit about following the owners manual maintenance schedules to maintain that 100k miles/5 year, whichever comes first powertrain warranty.

This I will follow with proof it was done.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Diesel Dan said:


> On some 3.8L and 4.3L GM engines I have found coolant leaking into the oil from the lower intake manifold gaskets via UOA. No noticeable coolant loss and no change in color for the oil, a UOA will catch trace amounts of anti-freeze before major gasket failure.
> 
> On my 6.5TD now that I know the oil holds up to 12 month intervals that is what I'm going to use.


3100 and 3400 was like that as well with leaks. A popular pre MY 01 3100 upgrade was the 3400 UIL/LIM combo and throttle body from a MY 2000 LA1 3400 Impala since all those parts have to come off to replace gaskets. 



NickD said:


> Also the bit about following the owners manual maintenance schedules to maintain that 100k miles/5 year, whichever comes first powertrain warranty.
> 
> This I will follow with proof it was done.


I usually pay dealer with my own oil so I have history and no need to dispose of oil. I had situations where containers leaked and I was replacing trunk carpets. I learned that the oil change cans at Wally World green caps are crap and the washer fluid caps from rain-x and others are a suitable and better fit. 


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

For transporting waste oil I have a bunch of 2.5 gallon rotella T jugs. They are very sturdy and have a wide mouth opening for pouring.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Guys with plastic intake manifolds on a V-6 or V-8 are always having coolant leak problems. I solved that problem for myself by saying I don't want one of those.

Not too bad on a four, no coolant flow in these, but can get vacuum leaks due to the O-rings they use like on the 2.2L DOHC Ecotec engines. O'Rings rot away.










Never was a problem with all cast iron engines, started with using aluminum with cast iron heads, and really got bad with plastic. Deals with substantially differences in the temperature coefficients of expansion. Its in all the engineering handbooks, but who reads those anyway.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

NickD said:


> Guys with plastic intake manifolds on a V-6 or V-8 are always having coolant leak problems. I solved that problem for myself by saying I don't want one of those.
> 
> Not too bad on a four, no coolant flow in these, but can get vacuum leaks due to the O-rings they use like on the 2.2L DOHC Ecotec engines. O'Rings rot away.
> 
> ...


IIRC the 3800 went from plastic to metal for that reason. 


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Diesel Dan said:


> The 4.0L has been showing signs of camshaft failure due to the removal of ZDDP in the US. Has Canada removed ZDDP in its oil as well?


no idea

used lotsa american walmart brand 5w30 dino oil as i drove semi in the states alot and it was cheaper than canada


have never looked at zddp levels, see it all over the jeep forums, just pay zero attn to it


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## rcclockman (Jan 16, 2012)

Is it possible to get a new software update at the dealership for a 2012 Oil Life monitor? So it will be like the 2013's ?????????


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## nobog (Oct 25, 2011)

What I don't get is some cars I've had from the past tell you to change oil at 20% or what ever but they don't specify the oil type (I know the Cruze does) so it doesn't know if you used Kmart oil, semi-syn, or the best-on-the-market full synthetic. So what this tells me there is no _significant_ difference in motor protection between the different types of oil. This of course assumes the same current rating between the oil types. I use full syn mainly for the easy cold starting ability. There are so many variables change it when you are happy.

True story, in my previous life worked in an auto shop - Chevy Jimmy, 350 ci, 35,000 miles, pulled the oil plug and nothing came out until after a few seconds a molasses type goo dribbled out. New filter, 5 qts later, motor sounded fine. Talked to the owner -oil was NEVER changed. I have no doubt there was internal damage but these engines are very robust indeed. (yes I know a 1.4T is not a iron block V8 chevy)

JK


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

rcclockman said:


> Is it possible to get a new software update at the dealership for a 2012 Oil Life monitor? So it will be like the 2013's ?????????


Hey rcclockman,

We would be happy to check with our internal resources. If this is something you would like us to look into for you send us a PM including your full name and VIN. 

We look forward to your reply, 

Jonathan A. (Assisting Jackie)
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

nobog said:


> True story, in my previous life worked in an auto shop - Chevy Jimmy, 350 ci, 35,000 miles, pulled the oil plug and nothing came out until after a few seconds a molasses type goo dribbled out. New filter, 5 qts later, motor sounded fine. Talked to the owner -oil was NEVER changed. I have no doubt there was internal damage but these engines are very robust indeed. (yes I know a 1.4T is not a iron block V8 chevy)


Seen the same thing on a 3800 in a Buick LeSabre that was only 2 yrs old.
Air filter had a layer of debris on it a good 1/4" thick but owner would not spend $15 for a new air filter. Car did have a nice new set of 100 spoke gold wheels, wide whites and spinners however. Just have to have priorities I guess.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Hot 33*F day, finally changed my oil and filter, 12% remaining oil life, 8,501 miles since last change. Tossed in a can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas a couple of weeks ago to clean out the carbon. Old oil still looked kind of clean, filter wasn't that bad either. Pulled out exactly 4 1/2 quarts, put that same amount in with new. Dead on the full mark. Recorded all the data.

Now this job is done. Feel the average cost since I am getting twice the mileage with standard oil using Mobile One. Actually costing me more like 15 bucks a change.


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