# Factory Battery Replaced



## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

Thanks for the info.

Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Sounds like a very logical choice for a battery replacement. If your diesel had less than 36,000 miles and three years would have the battery been replaced under warranty?


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> Sounds like a very logical choice for a battery replacement. If your diesel had less than 36,000 miles and three years would have the battery been replaced under warranty?


Yes, factory battery is three / 36. I was over the 36. 

But I was fully satisfied with the way the battery performed in that time and very happy that it left me stranded at home and on a Sunday morning. Not in the combat zone at Friday midnight.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Looks like a great battery based on specs, but who sells Northstar? I'm guessing you didn't order it online and have something as heavy as a battery shipped..


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Last diesel I had prior to this one was a 95 Mercedes diesel and it had a new battery prior to my purchase and didn't keep it long enough to wear that one out. Sounds like for those of us in a colder climate the battery used for a diesel doesn't last as long as a battery used in a gas car or truck. I had a 2003 Ford F-150 that had the original battery in the truck when I traded it in in summer of 2014.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> Looks like a great battery based on specs, but who sells Northstar? I'm guessing you didn't order it online and have something as heavy as a battery shipped..


I've had an Odyssey battery drop shipped from the distributor before and wouldn't hesitate to do it again. That battery arrived in two days and less than two months from its date of manufacture. 

But this time I found three shops in town that had NorthStar NSB-AGM94R in stock. I went with the one that offered me trade price.


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## VtTD (Nov 5, 2013)

Nice write up. We've only had a few -10s this winter, both this past weekend. Both mornings it started but the battery didn't sound too hot. Since it's already mid feb, I'm going to try to get through this winter and replace it before next winter so it's good to hear what others are replacing it with. I'm at 46k... I think last winter did a number on the battery.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> Last diesel I had prior to this one was a 95 Mercedes diesel and it had a new battery prior to my purchase and didn't keep it long enough to wear that one out. Sounds like for those of us in a colder climate the battery used for a diesel doesn't last as long as a battery used in a gas car or truck. I had a 2003 Ford F-150 that had the original battery in the truck when I traded it in in summer of 2014.


im in the coldest climate of the diesels on this board

my battery is still good.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

boraz said:


> im in the coldest climate of the diesels on this board
> 
> my battery is still good.


Is your car outside for cold starts? My car is in a garage and rarely gets colder than 35 degrees in the garage.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> Is your car outside for cold starts? My car is in a garage and rarely gets colder than 35 degrees in the garage.


100% of the time


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

Batteries Plus makes one that has 5 year full replacement.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Tomko said:


> At 2.5 years and 44,000 miles my factory battery gave up.
> 
> But as we all know, diesels are hard on their batteries.


2005 6.0L PS, 168K mi and 10 years on OEM Autolite batteries and still cranking, now that's not very hard on the batteries for a diesel even with 200 amp glow plugs for the kick start at -37 F. It must be that new smart charging GM uses with the AGM tech. The 2005 PS only had the dumb charging system with old tech lead acid battery.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

theonlypheonix said:


> 2005 6.0L PS, 168K mi and 10 years on OEM Autolite batteries and still cranking, now that's not very hard on the batteries for a diesel even with 200 amp glow plugs for the kick start at -37 F. It must be that new smart charging GM uses with the AGM tech. The 2005 PS only had the dumb charging system with old tech lead acid battery.


Or maybe it's because you're equipped with dual batteries?


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Forget about that 36K miles, wasn't even close to that number, but was at 34 months, so with a good dealer, first two sucked to borrow a teen age phrase, replaced it at no charge to me.

Suppose to be the same exact battery you can buy from Delco with up to a six year warranty, yeah prorated but saving a buck is still saving a buck. But with new vehicles, 36 months is it. 

Why do they go bad? Because they were born bad. And maintainance free is not free, can't even add a few drops of distilled water to these things. If that electrolyte was low from the factory, you will have problems. 

No such thing as maintenance free. But certainly increased the number of new batteries sold. This is making somebody very happy, but certainly not you or me.


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

Same here. About a month ago after 2.5 years, 58,500 miles and some very cold days and nights (I park outside) my OEM battery ended its life. Needless to say I was pretty disappointed with its life span. I ended up going with a Bosch Platinum 94 series battery with 800 CCA. I was in a pinch (needed a working car to get to work), so I didn't get to do any research on the brand. It seems to be doing well though. Hopefully I can get at least 5 years out of it.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Seems like the general consensus is 2.5 years battery life. That's how long mine lasted. YMMV


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

mine died at about 2.5 years.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Gator said:


> mine died at about 2.5 years.


Yikes, does sound like a 2.5 year battery, guess in 2 years I might as well count on buying a new battery. What brand did you replace with?


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Tomko said:


> Or maybe it's because you're equipped with dual batteries?


No...actually the battery life is due to dumb charging at a constant 14.5V after the glow plugs go out. Unlike the Cruze smart charging which allows the charge voltage to vary while driving from a low of 11.2V (high discharge) to 15.3V (over charge ) which appears to condition (damage) the battery to a discharge state if left unused for a week, eventually leading to premature failure as so many Cruze drivers appear to be experiencing.


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

Ive recently been having issues with my battery. 2014, 66,000 miles on it, and the rear terminal, closest to the firewall, can't remember which that is, but its started to corrode really bad. I mean, the entire terminal, and the cable connector is just a ball of blue snow. So, its on it way out. Its been outgassing like that for about 3-4 months, now. I just keep cleaning it off. I have a spray paint size can of battery neutralizer, and terminal paint. I spray the cleaner on there, it foams, I suck it out with a shop vac, and spray it with red. Ive done that 2-3 times, now. So I know it needs to be replaced. I just haven't gotten around to it, yet. The oil change is at 35%, so I will just get it done next oil change. Im not really happy with how long it lasted. But what can you do? Im also a big fan of OEM, and will definitely just go that route. I don't plan on still owning the car when the next one quits on me. I see a 435i or an ATS Coupe, in my future.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Factory battery replacement 200.00


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Gator said:


> Factory battery replacement 200.00


Yep. Mine came to $232.95


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

They quoted me $139 for my gas Cruze.


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## GlennGlenn (Nov 27, 2015)

My car build date is early Dec 2014. Car sat on lot for a lil over a year before I purchased. Cold weather climate. Quite possible battery went bad in that year. I have the feeling it's either battery or alternator causing issue, but since it's under warranty, I'll let dealer determine that. @Tomko, thanks for the great info. Q:are you telling me that if they replace battery that it'll be a smaller new with less cca????


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Could even have a problem with a battery where particles drop off causing leakage between a positive and negative plates creating a high self discharge rate with a warranty repair.

With a low charge, battery will freeze up and the sides will budge out, partial freezes can break the seal at the upper terminals causing all of that corrosion you are seeing on the terminals. 

Maintenance free batteries can be low on electrolyte, no way to check this, upper plates sulfate greatly decreasing the capacity of the battery. Depending on whom you get the battery from, even with a warranty, can have quite a battle.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

GlennGlenn said:


> My car build date is early Dec 2014. Car sat on lot for a lil over a year before I purchased. Cold weather climate. Quite possible battery went bad in that year. I have the feeling it's either battery or alternator causing issue, but since it's under warranty, I'll let dealer determine that. @*Tomko*, thanks for the great info. Q:are you telling me that if they replace battery that it'll be a smaller new with less cca????


Every CTD I've seen left the factory with a 730 CCA Group 94 size battery. Don't accept anything smaller or lower in CCA. 

For comparison the 1.4 and 1.8 Cruze leave the factory with a 525 CCA Group 47 size battery. 

The highest CCA Group 94 size battery I could find is the 860 CCA NorthStar. But it ain't cheap. I paid $305 locally for mine. Cheaper on the internet but I needed it now.


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## PanJet (Jun 18, 2013)

Tomko said:


> So I connected my trusty Deltran Battery Tender Plus and after six hours it still wouldn't start. so I reset the tender and left it on for the rest of the third day and all day on the fourth.


I know this isn't the cause of your issue, but a Battery Tender isn't going to touch much more than a motorcycle battery for actual charging (maintaining a charged battery it'll do okay). The Plus only charges at 1.25 amps, and I believe it automatically drops into trickle mode after 8 hours regardless of the battery status, meaning even if you reset it every 8 hours, it would still take days to fully charge a dead battery.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Most batteries are about 60 amp hours right? So charging a battery at 50% charge at 1.25 amps would be 30 hrs/1.25 or roughly 24 hours. If I recall correctly even the battery tender JR will maintain in charge mode for 48 or 72 hours. It's definitely longer than 8. 

Using one of these tenders to really charge a battery takes days but can be done. Although I'm guessing trying this with cold temperatures maybe difficult, as the battery may not absorb the charge as well. 


Maybe I'm totally wrong, but I'm guessing that's the reason why he disconnected and reconnected it after one day, was to force it back into charging if it went into maintenance mode.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Not a diesel, but my ACD battery barely made it 2 years before it kicked the bucket. The second one lasted half that.

My car sits a lot as it's primarily driven on weekends or to run errands during the evenings, probably not great for the battery.

Went to an AGM battery up a size from the stocker, and it's been holding voltage for close to a year now.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> Most batteries are about 60 amp hours right? So charging a battery at 50% charge at 1.25 amps would be 30 hrs/1.25 or roughly 24 hours. If I recall correctly even the battery tender JR will maintain in charge mode for 48 or 72 hours. It's definitely longer than 8.
> 
> Using one of these tenders to really charge a battery takes days but can be done. Although I'm guessing trying this with cold temperatures maybe difficult, as the battery may not absorb the charge as well.
> 
> ...


Yep. That's what the disconnect is for. To reset it back. 

I've regularly brought a variety of batteries back from the dead with a Battery Tender Plus. It just takes a little bit of time and patience. Biggest battery I've ever brought back was a 770 CCA. I bought my first one back 20 years ago. I currently have three of them. I had one go bad about five years ago but it was replaced without any trouble at all under warranty.

They've saved my bacon quite a few times. And make a nice Father's Day gift, or gift to someone who doesn't know much about cars. At one time they even made pink ones to give to the ladies as gifts.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

With everyone buying batteries after 2 plus years, has anyone looked into the X2 Power AGM by Battery Plus? Supposedly a re-branded NorthStar for $$$ less and includes 5 year warranty! At 239.99 a lot more battery for the money then OEM at a similar price.:eusa_clap:

Or maybe shoe horn in one of their Group 27F for a little more power, length and width looks good but height 
might be a little too much??:go:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli94ragmdp


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Tomko said:


> Every CTD I've seen left the factory with a 730 CCA Group 94 size battery. Don't accept anything smaller or lower in CCA.
> 
> For comparison the 1.4 and 1.8 Cruze leave the factory with a 525 CCA Group 47 size battery.
> 
> The highest CCA Group 94 size battery I could find is the 860 CCA NorthStar. But it ain't cheap. I paid $305 locally for mine. Cheaper on the internet but I needed it now.


I never looked at my original battery but assumed it was 800. That explains why the Cadillac battery I got with 765 CCA cranks faster in cold weather.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

12 buck battery lasted over 25 years in my old Ford tractor, but then became a 25, 50 75, 100, 200 buck battery. And they are not making them as good as they use to. 

Ha, back then, if your bumpers matched, could get or give a push start, even with an AT, had the hydraulic pump driven by the output driveshaft. Sure changed that moving it to the front of the engine, can push it all day and never start at vehicle.

If this isn't enough, first got rid of bumpers, followed by getting rid of towing hooks, with a dead battery, you are dead in your tracks.

Can't really complain about jumper cables, was extremely good for selling automotive electronic parts, just one instant of connecting them up in reverse would blow all these components up. Ha, even a vacuum tube radio if left on could take a reverse voltage, solid state changed all this. Today's cars, can easily cause more than 3,000 bucks worth of damage. 

With flashram, just a 0.75V glitch on the wrong pin, can reset all of your code to zero, computers are really dumb without code.

Battery is also the key filter for all the glitches an alternator can generate, could be prevented by using a linear regulator, but all my God, that would add a buck to the manufacturing cost of the automobile. 

Batteries with low capacity do not filter very well, even though they can start your engine if in good tune. Typically, if a lead acid battery has three complete discharges, it is worthless. To make this happen more frequently, added always hot to many of the electronic control circuits.

Remote entry and anti-thief are guaranteed battery discharges. Radios can even turn itself on along with the headlamps with the correct glitch in the wrong place.

So don't wonder why we have problems.


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## MilTownSHO (Oct 9, 2013)

2.5 years huh? I'm just about to flip 70 thousand and April will be the 2.5 year mark since I drove it off the lot.

We shall see... so far I see zero signs of trouble with it


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

MilTownSHO said:


> 2.5 years huh? I'm just about to flip 70 thousand and April will be the 2.5 year mark since I drove it off the lot.
> 
> We shall see... so far I see zero signs of trouble with it


No trouble with mine until 3 days before it almost failed to start the car. I noticed a slight difference in cranking speed for 2-3 days before it was obvious it needed replacing.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> My car sits a lot as it's primarily driven on weekends or to run errands during the evenings, probably not great for the battery.
> 
> Went to an AGM battery up a size from the stocker, and it's been holding voltage for close to a year now.


 Have AGMs in my GTO and BMW, both cars get minimal driving, both cars drain their batteries sitting in the cold weather. The BMW was giving low charge warnings, and shutting down accessories/lights to conserve the battery. Finally warmed up enough and drove enough last weekend to make it happy. This past fall I let my GTO sit too long and battery voltage went below 8. Had to borrow a restorer/maintainer from my bother (said it cost about $100), saved my $200+ Optima Red Top. I have used a battery tender jr when the battery still has some life in it, takes 3 to 4 days to fully charge.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

MilTownSHO said:


> 2.5 years huh? I'm just about to flip 70 thousand and April will be the 2.5 year mark since I drove it off the lot.
> 
> We shall see... so far I see zero signs of trouble with it


I had zero warning with mine. I'm just grateful that it gave up on me at home on a Sunday morning.


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## boneheaddoctor (Dec 10, 2014)

That's a Racket. One of my Mercedes diesels take a group 49 battery that's got 850cca rating and is physically a lot larger for about $140 last time I bought one back in the fall.

Those of us with diesel tracks generaly have two batteries because we need both to supply enough CCA's to turn over our engines. If you've ever see the monster batteries they have to turn over Catapillar Gensets...and they have a pair of those being they are 24v starters...they put out roughly 1,500 cca but are some seriously big and heavy things...

Shame they won't fit because I've got three Benzs with big honking batteries in them and I've never had an Interstate Battery die in less than 5 years in all the years I've owned these cars.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Well BHD where's your CTD in terms of miles and chronometer?

I'm wondering if you might be one of the next up?


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## rescueswimmer (Mar 28, 2013)

Didn't read through the whole post but my 14 D with about 60K on it Battery Died as well. Just to add to the list.


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

Please HELP me! I am having charging problems.
My late 2014 (August built) is having starting problems here in the mild climate of 
Southern California and my local dealer is really jerking me around!
I am no kid either and I do know a thing or two having had many many diesels since 1966.

My original Delco factory battery is dated 25-8-14 and I believe it I still good. 
When I charge it with my Sears 2-10-50 amp charger, it can sit for several days and will always start the car!
The problem is with the charging system: 
The volt meter shows 12.2 or 12.3 even with every thing electrical is tuned on, so I believe there is a charging problem!
Except for when the car is decelerating at which time I see 14.5 volts. Go figure?

The dealer wants to install a new factory battery (NOT THE PROBLEM IMHO!) plus a new positive cable all at my expense. 
The car was first in service in Feb. 2015 and all these problems began in November 2015 
when the car was only nine (9) months in use.
I have installed at my expense a brand new factory alternator but that was a waste of $400 as that wasn't the problem!

Any suggestions prior to my starting LEMON LAW proceedings? 
I really love my DIESEL CRUZER but I need a dependable vehicle and my dealer has had 
many attempts to correct the bad charging system and is not able fix it! 
BTW, that $138 positive battery cable is back ordered! Could that be a clue as to what the problem is? 

Please help me IF you have any suggestions.

My 'old' E-320 CDI with 191K miles still has the original AGM battery so I know 
that a quality battery can and will last. 

Regards,

Derrel H Green

[email protected]


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Derrell - you do not need an alternator. Whoever made that decision should never make another on this vehicle. 

You need a battery and probably a cable. 

What is your mileage?


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I know the forum is currently having problems being able to locate and search posts, but I don't think you need a battery or an alternator. Here's my theory.

It's well documented that the gas Cruze was the first model for GM to use a variable charging senario, and it appears that it was rolled out into other Cruzes, and possibly even other GM products.

When you charge at home with the battery charger your raising the status of charge. This is calculated using the estimated battery temperature, actual air temperature and voltage. As the car leaves the charger it's at 100% Status of Charge.. If the ambient temperature increases, it appears the control system senses that more Cranking Amps are available, therefore decreasing the charge. 

This is what's commanding the low voltage. Yes 12.2 Volts seems lower than the 12.5 many of us see, but it could be due to your charging amperage, or the external temperature of California, where it's warming up at this time of the year, and I'm betting it's over 77 degrees. 

Part of this programming is to also command a higher voltage when engine load is low, such as decelerating or going down hill. This is either covered in this post by some diesel members, or in a separate post, but your not the first one to say this.

Commanding charging when the car is accelerating add's to the load on the engine, and in the 1.4L gasser, it's pretty obvious, that the car drives like a gutless wonder. Hence the reason why in my opinion GM is attempting to monitor the status of charge, and use a current sensor on the negative battery cable to monitor the amp draw. Charging harder when the user won't notice. 

There's also part of the charging control system that will not allow the car to operate for more than I believe it's 20-30 minutes at the "open voltage 12.5 or so" before the car commands a desulfination mode.. With a charging voltage of 14 something volts. 

If you want to be sure your ok, remove the battery fully and have a full diagnostic battery test done. If it tests good, have the confidence to reinstall the battery and drive it for a few days and see what happens. 

The combination of using the charger, along with what I suspect is increasing temperatures at this time of the year, is commanding low charge voltage.

I could be wrong, but I've spent a lot of time reading AllData about the charging system in the gas model, and I can't see why the diesel would be that much different.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

D Cruzer said:


> Please HELP me! I am having charging problems.
> My late 2014 (August built) is having starting problems here in the mild climate of
> Southern California and my local dealer is really jerking me around!
> I am no kid either and I do know a thing or two having had many many diesels since 1966.
> ...


do you have over 36000 miles on car? If less those repairs should be warranty work.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> Part of this programming is to also command a higher voltage when engine load is low, such as decelerating or going down hill. This is either covered in this post by some diesel members, or in a separate post, but your not the first one to say this.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

I would recommend confirming that the battery is in a good state by getting the battery load tested at a shop you trust even if its your local parts store. If it tests good then start looking into the RVC system, note that these systems appear very sensitive to ohmic contacts developing in the high current cable lugs due to what appears to be poor lug to cable crimps. There is a bulletin out on the negative battery cable but I would maintain it is in all the high current current battery cables with potential crimped lug problems. It is also my contention that the RVC system strategy is further exacerbating the charging problem because of the defective ohmic contacts in the charging system path. In other words instead of a "smart" charging system its becoming a dumb charging system due to real world defective parts and environmental conditions.

If you have a friend that works on cars and is good at soldering you could have him fix the defective crimps. Its just a matter of pulling the cables out of the vehicle then re-staking the lugs, drilling a small hole in the lug and soldering the lug/cable through the hole. The cables would including the small 3" jumper from battery positive terminal to fuse block top of battery, neg battery cable from neg battery post to right fender, and the pos cable between fuse block on top battery to fuse block on the right fender, pos cable from fuse block to starter to alternator including the bracket which connects the cable to the starter (in my case I decided to replace this cable with my own hand made #2 welding cable so that when its -37 F outside it can get the battery's full CCA to the starter).

This has help similar problems on my '15 diesel Cruze where before these repairs I would see voltages as low as 11.1 V for extended periods even while driving at hwy speeds with low load or high load. Now the only time I see voltages lower then 12.6v is when I'm starting the car... glow plugs and starter are active.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

D Cruzer said:


> Please HELP me! I am having charging problems.
> My late 2014 (August built) is having starting problems here in the mild climate of
> Southern California and my local dealer is really jerking me around!
> I am no kid either and I do know a thing or two having had many many diesels since 1966.
> ...


These batteries haven't been the best. There have been several failures, including mine. Have you had the negative battery cable TSB done? What is your mileage?


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

IndyDiesel said:


> Sounds like a very logical choice for a battery replacement. If your diesel had less than 36,000 miles and three years would have the battery been replaced under warranty?


My local dealer would not replace my battery even though the 'D' was in use for only nine months 
but the odo reading was 40K in November. Bought the '14 in Feb. 2015.


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

diesel said:


> These batteries haven't been the best. There have been several failures, including mine. Have you had the negative battery cable TSB done? What is your mileage?


You guessed it! Car has 49K in 13 months. Dealer just replaced the negative (ground) battery cable even when they knew about
the TSB recommended replacement back in Nov. when I first started having to call AAA/Chev roadside service. 
See why I do not trust or care for this dealer?


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

Tomko said:


> Derrell - you do not need an alternator. Whoever made that decision should never make another on this vehicle.
> 
> You need a battery and probably a cable.
> 
> What is your mileage?


You got that right! A $365 costly mistake!


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

IndyDiesel said:


> do you have over 36000 miles on car? If less those repairs should be warranty work.


A person would think that Chev. would fix their problem with this cars' electrical system 
when the car is only nine months in use and only 40Kmiles, but NO! 
There was a time when they would have. I can dream can't I?


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

*So RECOMMENDATIONS Are:*

Replace the positive cable which is not available now and is back-ordered.

I believe my original battery is still good but when is goes, I will buy a better quality replacement.

The better replacement is a ? 

Thanks to all who replied and for all your help! Thought I was over on Freds for a while there!

Regards,

D Cruzer


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

D Cruzer said:


> I believe my original battery is still good but when is goes, I will buy a better quality replacement.
> 
> The better replacement is a ?
> 
> ...


This is covered in post one of this thread.


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

Tomko said:


> This is covered in post one of this thread.


Thanks. I done found it and called the shop and the gal could not believe 
what I laid on her that I have learned here.
Read ALL about it in theonlyphoenix's excellent post found at #32.

BTW, they evidently do not charge for installing their new batteries?
And of course they will properly test my original factory battery to see if it is still good. 

Guess where I will be taking D CRUZER instead of to ol' useless, 
the local Chevrolet dealer down by the Lake?

All along, I kept trying to get 'em to understand that there was nothing wrong with my battery;
The problem was that the battery was not being properly charged!

BTW, what a good feeling to chat with a bunch of people who collectively 
know so much more than the dummies at the local stealership!

Now I wonder what the LEMON-LAW people will say when I run these simple facts by them?
Do you suppose that the lawyer will not be so concerned about
whether the vehicle is still under warrantee or not? 
Can you say class action law suit?


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

carbon02 said:


> I know the forum is currently having problems being able to locate and search posts, but I don't think you need a battery or an alternator. Here's my theory.
> 
> It's well documented that the gas Cruze was the first model for GM to use a variable charging senario, and it appears that it was rolled out into other Cruzes, and possibly even other GM products.
> 
> ...


Are there any posts on this forum that talk about the "GM variable charging scenario"?

I need to be better educated on this new-to-me system.

Thanks in advance.

D Cruzer


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

D Cruzer said:


> Now I wonder what the LEMON-LAW people will say when I run these simple facts by them?
> Do you suppose that the lawyer will not be so concerned about
> whether the vehicle is still under warrantee or not?
> Can you say class action la suit?


Careful about bringing up the L word. All help from the manufacturer stops at the first mention then it's your lawyer and their lawyer sorting out the details. The lemon law process is not nearly as easy as people think it is. It is a long, drawn out process that takes many months and usually does not result in the repurchase of the car. It usually results in a settlement. Meanwhile, you are making payments on a car that has issues. The car manufacturers are not in business to buy back cars. If you want to go that route, quietly run your case by a lawyer and see what they say. They may or may not want to take your case, but they all generally will give you a free consultation. I've been the lemon law route before and it's not at all fun. By the way, I don't think there really are any true lemon laws that apply to used cars, at least not as well as new cars. I don't recall if you bought new or used, but that plays into it as well.


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

I bought it new Feb 03, 2015.

Started having these dead battery problems in Nov. 2015 at 40K miles.
Nice sunny warm day here in Southern California (77 degrees). 
Nothing to do with your cold back east weather either.

Simply a new car battery that IS NOT being properly charged while the car is being driven!

New X2 is $260 installed with a five year non-prorated replacement.
Sounds like the best deal?

So your idea is to simply allow Chevy to get away with building a 
poor vehicle that is not dependable for more than a few months?
Wish I could afford that but I can not!

BTW, doing the 'L' bit is not that hard here in California. Been there; Done that!

How else can I get this undependable relatively new car fixed or replaced?
When you pay $27K for a Cruze D, don't you have the right to expect a dependable car?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

D Cruzer said:


> I bought it new Feb 03, 2015.
> 
> Started having these dead battery problems in Nov. 2015 at 40K miles.
> Nice sunny warm day here in Southern California (77 degrees).
> ...


I've heard California does make it easier for lemon law cases. Out east, it's not that easy. When I had a lemon, my lawyer said exactly that - I have the right to expect a car that works properly! Anyway, good luck. I hope it gets sorted out for you. Keep us posted on the repair process. I know you can't reveal any details of your lemon law case on here.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

D Cruzer said:


> I bought it new Feb 03, 2015.
> 
> Started having these dead battery problems in Nov. 2015 at 40K miles.
> Nice sunny warm day here in Southern California (77 degrees).
> ...


This quote is from a California website talking about its lemon laws, perhaps an attorney can help identify if this case is eligible for the lemon law, obviously not an expert on California lemon law.

*e “Lemon Law”:* A special provision, often called the "Lemon Law," helps determine what is a reasonable number of repair attempts for problems that substantially impair the use, value, or safety of the vehicle. The "Lemon Law" applies to these problems if they arise during the first 18 months after the consumer received delivery of the vehicle or within the first 18,000 miles on the odometer, whichever occurs first. During the first 18 months or 18,000 miles, the "Lemon Law" presumes that a manufacturer has had a reasonable number of attempts to repair the vehicle if either (1) the same problem results in a condition that is likely to cause death or serious bodily injury if the vehicle is driven and the problem has been subject to repair two or more times by the manufacturer or its agents, and the buyer or lessee has at least once directly notified the manufacturer of the need for the repair of the problem as provided in the warranty or owner's manual or (2) the same problem has been subject to repair four or more times by the manufacturer or its agents and the buyer has at least once directly notified the manufacturer of the need for the repair of the problem as provided in the warranty or owner's manual or (3) the vehicle is out of service because of the repair of any number of problems by the manufacturer or its agents for a cumulative total of more than 30 days since delivery of the vehicle.


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## dougc905 (May 24, 2015)

Wow. These batteries aren't cheap! Just searched for the Northstar battery - never heard of them before - turns out to be Swedish company with global distribution. Canadian pricing from their website is ~$350.

In Ontario, Total Battery (NorthStar Ultra High Performance Pure Lead AGM Battery - Group 94 (L4) - NSB-AGM 94R (L4) will sell for ~$308. I'd have to drive to Barrie from Toronto if I wanted to save shipping fees.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

dougc905 said:


> Wow. These batteries aren't cheap! Just searched for the Northstar battery - never heard of them before - turns out to be Swedish company with global distribution. Canadian pricing from their website is ~$350.
> 
> In Ontario, Total Battery (NorthStar Ultra High Performance Pure Lead AGM Battery - Group 94 (L4) - NSB-AGM 94R (L4) will sell for ~$308. I'd have to drive to Barrie from Toronto if I wanted to save shipping fees.


Good grief......you folks get hammered!

How bout a nice drive down to Buffalo for a battery and lunch?........Fuel/food/a nice drive and I think you still would save money.

Rob


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## dougc905 (May 24, 2015)

The manufacturer's online price in USD is $280. Can't find a brick & mortar retailer for these batteries in the area. It appears that after the exchange rate, the CDN price is cheaper.


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## D Cruzer (Feb 20, 2015)

D Cruzer said:


> I bought the Cruzer new Feb 03, 2015.
> 
> Started having these dead battery problems in Nov. 2015 at 40K miles.
> Nice sunny warm day here in Southern California (77 degrees).
> ...


So I now have the new X2 installed! Price installed was $233.


What a difference the new more powerful battery makes! Like night and day.
Thank to the member who pointed out this battery to us. 
Certainly the proper way to go. Do not mess with a new factory battery.

I did not want to have to go the "L" route as aside from the battery problem 
which my local dealer somehow could not properly diagnose, the car is now 
as it should be! 

Wish I had not wasted the money on that new alternator!


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

D Cruzer said:


> So I now have the new X2 installed! Price installed was $233.
> 
> 
> What a difference the new more powerful battery makes! Like night and day.
> ...


Glad to hear it's sorted out!


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## 2014Oilburner (Feb 1, 2015)

Well I got to add my 2014 with 21K miles and 15 months of service to the dead battery list. I drive the car everyday and there was no sign at all that the battery was going to fail...then in the morning I couldn't unlock the doors with the remote...I turn the key and the car just went crazy with dash warning messages... engine fan coming on and other whirling sounds coming from the car...so I just jump start the car and it starts and all is normal and I drive to work showing 14.9 volts...car starts after work and I drive to the dealer. I tell them the battery is bad but they have to hook the battery up to a tester and I wait two hours for the machine to tell them the battery is bad. The dealer installs a new battery under warranty and all is fine. The replacement battery has the same part # but is rated at 800 CCA instead of 730 CCA that the factory used.
I get home and put a charger on the new battery and it's not fully charged so I am fully charging the battery overnight. I wonder if the batterys are failing early because they are not fully charged before being put into service.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

2014Oilburner said:


> Well I got to add my 2014 with 21K miles and 15 months of service to the dead battery list. I drive the car everyday and there was no sign at all that the battery was going to fail...then in the morning I couldn't unlock the doors with the remote...I turn the key and the car just went crazy with dash warning messages... engine fan coming on and other whirling sounds coming from the car...so I just jump start the car and it starts and all is normal and I drive to work showing 14.9 volts...car starts after work and I drive to the dealer. I tell them the battery is bad but they have to hook the battery up to a tester and I wait two hours for the machine to tell them the battery is bad. The dealer installs a new battery under warranty and all is fine. The replacement battery has the same part # but is rated at 800 CCA instead of 730 CCA that the factory used.
> I get home and put a charger on the new battery and it's not fully charged so I am fully charging the battery overnight. I wonder if the batterys are failing early because they are not fully charged before being put into service.


Really seems like batteries are a weak link in our diesels. There are so many possible factors i can't even begin to guess what the root cause is. I am glad to hear you got yours replaced under warranty!


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

I know this is a wild guess, but could it be the alternator is not designed for the low rpms? That same battery in a gasser seems to hold up a year or two more.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Kind of like a trickle charge and the life of the battery is shortened, just a guess


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

*28 months*

Two years and 4 months, two shorted cells!
Dealer replaced 94RAGM 800 CCA $190 plus $24 installation


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## dougc905 (May 24, 2015)

With the current new thread on dead batteries...

Tomko - you've had your Northstar battery in use for a while now. Any comments on how it is performing?


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

dougc905 said:


> With the current new thread on dead batteries...
> 
> Tomko - you've had your Northstar battery in use for a while now. Any comments on how it is performing?


It has performed seamlessly. Just like the factory battery did until that one terrible day in February this year. 

I've previously gotton over 10 years of service from factory Delco batteries. But all of them were the traditional wet-cell freedom designs. The CTD is my first experience with an AGM design. 

Despite their advantages (greater power density, leak-proof case) I'm starting to believe that they give less overall service and very little warning before they fail. At least that seems to be the case with the Delco AGM that the CTDs left the factory with.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Tomko said:


> very little warning before they fail. At least that seems to be the case with the Delco AGM that the CTDs left the factory with.


Mine gave a couple days warning. It subtly cranked slower in the morning for a couple days, but by the 3rd day, it was barely able to start the car.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

I've been extremely lucky than because after 2.5 years I've yet to have an issue with my battery


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

money_man said:


> I've been extremely lucky than because after 2.5 years I've yet to have an issue with my battery


Hafilax is a very temperate costal environment. Not terrible cold nor terrible heat. So I'm guessing your battery may go longer. Plus, remeber that mine gave up after one day of eight consecutive starts in -25 weather. 

Regardless of temperature, has your car ever been started eight times in one day?


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Doubt it. **** my previous car was a 2005 cobalt and it still has the original battery.


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