# Help, I'm loosing coolant!



## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

Well, if the diesel cooling systems are like the gas engine ones, the overflow bottle is a weak link. I have seen many people with a leak there taking them a long time to find. They leak at hose connections and crack about dead center on the BOTTOM of the tank. Also, a good way to check for a leaking water pump is to drive it at highways speeds for about 30 minutes. Then once its been at normal operating temperature and driven a little hard, check the underbody moldings and structure for coolant. If you look directly at the water pump it can bee very hard to see.


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

I was losing coolant around the same mileage and it turned out to be seepage at the OEM water pump pulley, you cannot see without removing the timing belt cover. I did not have any visible external leaks or smell either. When I highlighted the coolant loss to the dealer they verbally diagnosed it as normal and took no action.

Since replacement I haven't added any coolant and that was probably 60k miles ago at this point. If you visually checked the hoses / connections it might be worth the hassle of removing the cover.


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## Detrious (Jul 5, 2017)

Look on the back of the engine near the oil filter cap, there are coolant lines there that go to the oil cooler assembly. They like to start leaking or just outright break. That seems to be pretty common at higher mileages. I second the water pump as well, other than a slight smell you might not visibly see a leak. I had that happen on mine. I can't speak to the surge tank cracking, I have not noticed a problem with mine and I don't have a gas version to compare it to.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

LulzT1 said:


> dealer they verbally diagnosed it as normal and took no action


Dealerships....arrg


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Johnny B said:


> Dealerships....arrg


"Aggressive tires causing vibrations which is causing coolant to splash out through the pcv."

I **** you not.


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## Detrious (Jul 5, 2017)

lol, manager said throw words at the owner until they leave


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

Snipesy said:


> "Aggressive tires causing vibrations which is causing coolant to splash out through the pcv."
> 
> I **** you not.


I wouldn't have the words to respond to a clown boy statement like that, I would probably just leave. 🤬


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Johnny B said:


> I wouldn't have the words to respond to a clown boy statement like that, I would probably just leave. 🤬


Yeahhh. Unfortuantely dealerships have a monopoly on anything warranty.

To them I am just a rich kid (seriously I look 15)..... And I have no problem with that. There is no sense in arguing with someone who has already decided to invalidate anything you say.

What they don't know (at least not right away) is I have connections above them.... So..... I don't really care about their opinion. If I say something needs replacing it gets replaced.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

On the Diesel, the #1 source of coolant leaks is the coolant lines to the oil cooler on the back side of of the engine. That's where I'd start.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> On the Diesel, the #1 source of coolant leaks is the coolant lines to the oil cooler on the back side of of the engine. That's where I'd start.


I'll need to check ours if/when I get our car back, as I do smell the faintest whiff of coolant after shutting the car off. Level looks fine.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> I'll need to check ours if/when I get our car back, as I do smell the faintest whiff of coolant after shutting the car off. Level looks fine.


I’ll have to check. My 15 smells normal. I also do coolant flushes every 3 years. I hate coolant line and block corrosion.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

MP81 said:


> I'll need to check ours if/when I get our car back, as I do smell the faintest whiff of coolant after shutting the car off. Level looks fine.


Mine would lose about a quart of coolant per 15k miles from about 50k until 170k. Then around 170k, it rapidly escalated to a quart per 100 miles over the course of a couple months, which is when I began to smell coolant for the first time after shutting the car off. When I was replacing the lines, the ribbed plastic hose crumbled under the pressure of my hands, leaving only the end connectors behind. I saved the end connectors so that when the replacement lines eventually start to leak, I can clamp some rubber fuel hose to the old connectors to create permanent lines that won't need to be replaced again.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> On the Diesel, the #1 source of coolant leaks is the coolant lines to the oil cooler on the back side of of the engine. That's where I'd start.


do you have a picture of the oil cooler so I'd have an idea where to look at? thanks.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

I found the source of the leak, it's indeed the water pump, I attached few pics here.
Now how long can I drive in this condition, I really want to do the timing belt and the water pump in the next 30,000km or so, can I?






























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## msav (Apr 24, 2014)

+1 on the oil cooler line. It is corrugated Plastic. Yes Plastic. It gets brittle and cracks if you get unlucky it shatters and dumps all of your coolant.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

msav said:


> +1 on the oil cooler line. It is corrugated Plastic. Yes Plastic. It gets brittle and cracks if you get unlucky it shatters and dumps all of your coolant.


do you have a picture of the oil cooler, I will have to check that too.


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## Roger Ramjet (Oct 11, 2018)

pacolino said:


> My CTD has 140,000km and really it's not there yet to replace the timing belt and the water pump.


I believe that mileage is almost exactly the recommended timing belt mileage(maybe a couple of KMs shy ). I'd start there.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

Roger Ramjet said:


> I believe that mileage is almost exactly the recommended timing belt mileage(maybe a couple of KMs shy ). I'd start there.


Timing belt would be due 10yr/160k km, so definitely close enough at 8yr/140k km to just go ahead and do it all. The coolant leak will also compromise the integrity of the belt if the coolant has been contacting the rubber, so best to get it replaced asap.


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## Detrious (Jul 5, 2017)

The oil cooler is built into the oil filter housing, I don't have a picture of it on the vehicle but this is what it looks like out of the box.


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

Found a pic of my water pump for reference, swapped at 110k


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Speaking in KM converted from miles, the timing belt is rated for 10 years service or 156,911 KM. The DIC is programmed to trigger warnings at every ignition cycle at 160,934 KM.

There have been no reports of a timing belt failing at any number of KM / miles.

The oldest of these engines are about 8.5 years old. The first CDTs were sold in May 2013, with engines assembled in Kaiserslautern probably three months before vehicle assembly in Lordstown.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

Tomko said:


> Speaking in KM converted from miles, the timing belt is rated for 10 years service or 156,911 KM. The DIC is programmed to trigger warnings at every ignition cycle at 160,934 KM.
> 
> There have been no reports of a timing belt failing at any number of KM / miles.
> 
> The oldest of these engines are about 8.5 years old. The first CDTs were sold in May 2013, with engines assembled in Kaiserslautern probably three months before vehicle assembly in Lordstown.


If I decide just to replace the water pump do I need to remove the timing belt in order to replace the pump?


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

pacolino said:


> If I decide just to replace the water pump do I need to remove the timing belt in order to replace the pump?


Yes, but while you're in there just replace the belt, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt and water pump all at the same time. It's about $270 for the whole kit on idparts. Cheap insurance for a critical part really.


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## Roger Ramjet (Oct 11, 2018)

LulzT1 said:


> Yes, but while you're in there just replace the belt, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt and water pump all at the same time. It's about $270 for the whole kit on idparts. Cheap insurance for a critical part really.


☝☝☝
This


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

so I've got an estimate from the stealership for the TB + water pump job for about $1,300 cad, including taxes.
I know the TB kit from Idparts is $340+tax +$30 shipping.
If I get the parts separately from Rockauto they're even cheaper, about $305 cad +tax, all original OEM ACdelco parts. The timing locking tool is $69.81 cad, free shipping on amazon.
So it seems a no brainer here if I do the job myself, I would save about $800 cad which is exactly what I'm going to do.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

LulzT1 said:


> Yes, but while you're in there just replace the belt, tensioner, idler, serpentine belt and water pump all at the same time. It's about $270 for the whole kit on idparts. Cheap insurance for a critical part really.


sigh

he's in canada


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

pacolino said:


> so I've got an estimate from the stealership for the TB + water pump job for about $1,300 cad, including taxes.
> I know the TB kit from Idparts is $340+tax +$30 shipping.
> If I get the parts separately from Rockauto they're even cheaper, about $305 cad +tax, all original OEM ACdelco parts. The timing locking tool is $69.81 cad, free shipping on amazon.
> So it seems a no brainer here if I do the job myself, I would save about $800 cad which is exactly what I'm going to do.


you have to remove the lock tool in order to put on the belt as per the instructions, so the tool is literally of no use.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

brodie29a said:


> i was re-reading this thread and noticed you where talking about timing, if your wp is part of the timing belt do yourself a favor and study doing water pumps on belt driven engine’s (my cruze is chain driven so my wp works off the serpentine belt). now this a huge assumption on my part but if diesel engine work similar to gas most likely it’s an interference engine. unless you have done timing belt replacements before if your one tooth off your engine is junk. long story short if you feel like you can do the job then do it but if this a first time repair and your having any doubts about doing it take the car to a pro. i’m not trying to be a d on this i’m just trying to save you time and money, because a timing/wp replacement is a risky move on an interference engine even for the most skilled mechanic.


Thanks for the advice brodie. 
I’m very well aware of the risk, as long as you don’t rush the job and take all precautions and the TB marks are aligned with all marks on crankshaft and the camshaft it should be a piece of cake this job.
My only concern is the quality of the parts I’ll get from either idparts or rockauto, I haven’t ordered them yet.
There is a member here who had issues with the newly installed wp, it was leaking several times, he installed/removed it few times but I understand he did not wait for at least 24hrs before refilling the system with coolant which I think it’s critical so the wp seal would bond properly with the surface.

I do all maintenance to my CTD and I’ll do this one too. I plan to do it in 2 days, first day remove all old parts and drain coolant, install all new parts and torque to spec, leave everything for 24hrs to settle.
2nd day fill the cooling system, remove all air,test drive, check for leaks. That’s the plan bud.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

The parts I ordered from Rockauto and Amazon were all OEM or ACDelco Professional replacement parts, and I'm approaching my second timing service with no problems arising since I did the first one. As far as bonding time for the water pump gasket, I refilled mine and ran it up to operating temperature within an hour of installation and haven't had any issues. If the surface is clean, and it's torqued to spec, it should be good. You can wait to be safe, but it shouldn't be absolutely necessary. After all, if you took it to a shop, they'd fill it and send you on your way without keeping it overnight.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i cant say i remember knowing anything aboot having to wait 24hrs for it to bond

i did wait 24 some odd hours before adding coolant cuz i had troubles setting the belt tensioner and walked away from it til the next day


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

brodie29a said:


> hey if you feel confident that you can do the repair and save save on the labor cost and i meant no disrespect so if i did that i apologize (i try and play it safe with wp and timing because i learnt the hard way and try to help others from making my same mistakes)


no worries bud, no need to apologize, we're here to learn and share from everybody's experiences. The thing is I'm really deep in sh** with my money and this wp leak came totally unexpected.
The 24hr waiting period before filling the coolant I've read from this guy who probably didn't clean properly the wp contact surfaces and he probably did not torqued it's screws to spec, here is that thread:








Water pump update/design change?


So lucky me, opened the hood today and see orange liquid on the motor mount on the pulley side, very cool, considering I did the water pump about a year and a half ago... I replaced it with an AISIN WPK-819 https://www.amazon.com/AISIN-WPK-819-Engine-Water-Pump/dp/B01M16MJG7 which I thought was...




www.cruzetalk.com





I see the TB kit from idparts is on backorder, so I will order from rockauto and amazon. The only parts I don't see at rockouto are the bolts for the engine mount and bracket, anyone knows from where I can get those bolts? Thanks again.


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## e-iowa-o (Sep 2, 2015)

Highking Tool Diesel Timing Locking Kit Compatible for GM Vauxhall Opel SAAB Alfa Romeo Engines 1.9/2.0 CDTI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNYHM...abc_2H7H19N15AN45Y0PW4BV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This worked well for me. Pinned the cam into correct position. There's a cpl good step by step threads on here for timing belt replacement. 

Also, the plastic oil cooler lines failed on me a few weeks ago. Found a pin hole and when I flexed it just crumbled. So, if you see a leak don't touch it till you get the parts in hand. lol..


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

pacolino said:


> no worries bud, no need to apologize, we're here to learn and share from everybody's experiences. The thing is I'm really deep in sh** with my money and this wp leak came totally unexpected.
> The 24hr waiting period before filling the coolant I've read from this guy who probably didn't clean properly the wp contact surfaces and he probably did not torqued it's screws to spec, here is that thread:
> 
> 
> ...


The engine mount bolts are available on Rock Auto. They just don't show up in the catalog for the Cruze, so you have to do a part number search for 11570514 and they'll pop up.



More Information for GM GENUINE 11570514


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> The engine mount bolts are available on Rock Auto. They just don't show up in the catalog for the Cruze, so you have to do a part number search for 11570514 and they'll pop up.
> 
> 
> 
> More Information for GM GENUINE 11570514


oh man I didn't see your message until after I ordered everything except these bolts, how many bolts are on the mount and the bracket?


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

pacolino said:


> oh man I didn't see your message until after I ordered everything except these bolts, how many bolts are on the mount and the bracket?


There are more bolts on the mount, but I think only the 3 bolts that insert vertically to hold together the two sides of the mount are specified for replacement during the timing service (all of the kits only include these 3), and the bolts that attach the mount halves to the engine and frame are reused. If I remember last time I did this service, the other bolts are a different size, so not sure what their part number would be if one did desire to replace all of them.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> There are more bolts on the mount, but I think only the 3 bolts that insert vertically to hold together the two sides of the mount are specified for replacement during the timing service (all of the kits only include these 3), and the bolts that attach the mount halves to the engine and frame are reused. If I remember last time I did this service, the other bolts are a different size, so not sure what their part number would be if one did desire to replace all of them.


Thank you, I ordered 3 bolts right away. I found an universal cam locking tool on amazon, you only need to lock the camshaft and the fuel pump pulleys, once it's set to TDC the crankshaft would not move anywhere, you need a great force to move it, here is a picture of the tool on amazon and it's much cheaper than Highking tool:


https://www.amazon.ca/Universal-Engine-Timing-Removal-Durability/dp/B09DP4Q8SS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=universal+timing+belt+lock+tool&qid=1633702733&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNVY2U1E3RUVFQjNNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTg0NDYzM01DOTdENVEzSjdGSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDM0NTkwMUZaQ1M0WkFHUlRIQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

pacolino said:


> Thank you, I ordered 3 bolts right away. I found an universal cam locking tool on amazon, you only need to lock the camshaft and the fuel pump pulleys, once it's set to TDC the crankshaft would not move anywhere, you need a great force to move it, here is a picture of the tool on amazon and it's much cheaper than Highking tool:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Universal-Engine-Timing-Removal-Durability/dp/B09DP4Q8SS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=universal+timing+belt+lock+tool&qid=1633702733&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNVY2U1E3RUVFQjNNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTg0NDYzM01DOTdENVEzSjdGSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDM0NTkwMUZaQ1M0WkFHUlRIQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


 Will that tool reach across the span between the cam gear and the fuel pump pulley? It's hard to judge scale, but it feels like it's not long enough from the photo. I think most of us have either skipped the locking tool entirely or used it and found it ultimately unnecessary. I bought the $30 ebay one, but found that it was going to get in the way more than it helped, and I didn't use it. The fuel pump pulley doesn't need to be in time, and as long as the timing belt is marked, and the engine is stopped at a spot where the marks on the timing pulleys are contacting the belt, one can just time the cam and crank with the belt markings.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

revjpeterson said:


> Will that tool reach across the span between the cam gear and the fuel pump pulley? It's hard to judge scale, but it feels like it's not long enough from the photo. I think most of us have either skipped the locking tool entirely or used it and found it ultimately unnecessary. I bought the $30 ebay one, but found that it was going to get in the way more than it helped, and I didn't use it. The fuel pump pulley doesn't need to be in time, and as long as the timing belt is marked, and the engine is stopped at a spot where the marks on the timing pulleys are contacting the belt, one can just time the cam and crank with the belt markings.


it looks like it just jams itself between the block and back of the gear, separately

doesnt look like it would be in the way

i had more issues with keeping the belt tight around the crank gear while i monkeyed around up top

i ended up shoving wedges between the belt and the lip around the crank gear to keep it from falling off


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

brodie29a said:


> depends on which mount now this is an example but my mount on the driver side by the batt. has around 9 (i’m not removing my battery to count the rest lol) but there are 3 that bolt on top of the trans another 3 to bolt the mount to the mount that bolts to the frame and iirc it’s another 2-3 bolts to the frame and a nut. your engine configuration will be different and your mounts and each mount location uses different amounts of bolts


Those would be the trans mounts. Only the passenger-side engine mount is relevant to this, since it is the only one that needs to be disassembled to complete timing service.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

I received all the new parts, I will need to buy antifreeze coolant before proceed to start, I decided to go with Amsoil low-toxicity biodegradable antifreeze, it's concentrate and comes in 1 gallon jugs. 
Question is: should 1 gallon be enough considering it's concentrate?


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

pacolino said:


> I received all the new parts, I will need to buy antifreeze coolant before proceed to start, I decided to go with Amsoil low-toxicity biodegradable antifreeze, it's concentrate and comes in 1 gallon jugs.
> Question is: should 1 gallon be enough considering it's concentrate?


Depends on dilution ratio and if you drain the system or just replace what you lose from the water pump:

If you completely drain the system, the capacity is 9.5qt, so you would be 1.5qt short even if you're diluting 50/50. 

If you dilute the concentrate 50/50 and you don't drain the radiator, you should have plenty for replacing what was lost from replacing the water pump. 

If you are diluting 70/30, you'd be close on having enough for replacing what was lost from the water pump.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> Depends on dilution ratio and if you drain the system or just replace what you lose from the water pump:
> 
> If you completely drain the system, the capacity is 9.5qt, so you would be 1.5qt short even if you're diluting 50/50.
> 
> ...


thanks, I already purchased 2 jugs of Amsoil concentrate antifreeze, 3.78 liters per jug. I will do a complete flush to remove the old antifreeze so yeah I will need 2 jugs. 
Man this stuff is expensive, paid $120 canadian dollars for two jugs, amsoil membership included.
I received today the TB locking tool, it gives me peace of mind knowing that camshaft, fuel pump and the crankshaft will be locked at TDC during TB and water pump installation. 
Hopefully everything will go smooth, I'll report back how things went.


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## 15cruzediesel (Sep 30, 2019)

pacolino said:


> thanks, I already purchased 2 jugs of Amsoil concentrate antifreeze, 3.78 liters per jug. I will do a complete flush to remove the old antifreeze so yeah I will need 2 jugs.
> Man this stuff is expensive, paid $120 canadian dollars for two jugs, amsoil membership included.
> I received today the TB locking tool, it gives me peace of mind knowing that camshaft, fuel pump and the crankshaft will be locked at TDC during TB and water pump installation.
> Hopefully everything will go smooth, I'll report back how things went.


Good luck!
Probably be easy for you since it sounds like your well prepared.
Be nice to see some pics.....


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

Does anyone know what size is the crankshaft sprocket bolt? I need the right socket to turn over the crankshaft, thanks.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

pacolino said:


> Does anyone know what size is the crankshaft sprocket bolt? I need the right socket to turn over the crankshaft, thanks.


Not sure on that one. I've always just used the "bump the ignition until it's where I want it" method.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

I replaced also the tensioner for the serpentine belt, it has 2 screws, what's the torque spec for these 2 screws?


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

finally, I've completed the TB job successfully, it took me little bit over 12 hrs with longer breaks, over the course of 2 days, next time I can do it easily in half the time.
Comments and pictures will follow soon, I'm so happy that I did it.


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