# Coolant Reservoir Level-won't stay topped off



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

6speed said:


> My ECO maximum coolant level when cold will not stay there. A few times I have added a cup or more of Dex-Cool to the arrow on the side. I drive 40 miles, let it cool all day, & check. It falls an inch. The car gurgles about 10 minutes when I shut it off. There are no leaks on the ground or in the engine compartment. Outside the vehicle, there is a faint smell of coolant. The reservoir cap is snug tight. Does anyone know where my coolant is going & what the problem/correction is?


I'm not sure, but I would take it in to have your dealer check it. I believe there was a PI out on something like this earlier this year.


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## Pissy (Aug 29, 2012)

it could be like a pin hole somewhere.. it gets hot and evaporates before it drips or anything... good luck! hope it gets fixed


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

I have the same problem please let us know what they find. The coolant seems like it gets to a certain and then stays at that level but I could be wrong. I have a smell of coolant at times but no leaks and already had the dealer look at it and they did not find anything but they topped it off with coolant and now it is down again.


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

Speaking of coolant- does this look normal? I took this a while ago and think the engine was cold. Thanks.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

fastdriver said:


> Speaking of coolant- does this look normal? I took this a while ago and think the engine was cold. Thanks.
> 
> 
> View attachment 8288


that is about where my level is currently. 

car is running normal, no overheating, a little coolant smell every now and then but nothing on the ground and no leaks to my naked eye. I know it was higher when I took it in last January to have the dealer check out the smell. They did the dye test and could not find any leaks but they topped it off and it was higher than it is currently. 

One thing I do have to say is the hvac is the best I ever had on the car. My ac freezes my daughter out in the back seat and the heat is rarely on full hot even on the coldest of days.


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## jdubb11 (Mar 14, 2012)

the heat is rarely on full hot even on the coldest of days.

when you say coldest days, how cold is that. my ac is cold but my heat and car warm up plain sucks.


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## bartonmd (Jun 30, 2011)

What kind of load are you running how long before shutting down? e.g. do you pull in and park it 1/8 mile after running 80mph on the interstate, without letting it idle to cool the turbo?

With the turbo being water cooled, it'll boil off some coolant if you shut it off with the turbo too hot.

Mike


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

jdubb11 said:


> the heat is rarely on full hot even on the coldest of days.
> 
> when you say coldest days, how cold is that. my ac is cold but my heat and car warm up plain sucks.


I haven't really notice how long it takes to warm up but last winter temps were around 10 at night and before getting to work I would have to turn the heat down because I was burning up. This year we had a few nights below freezing but I have never had the temp to full heat yet even while warming up.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

bartonmd said:


> What kind of load are you running how long before shutting down? e.g. do you pull in and park it 1/8 mile after running 80mph on the interstate, without letting it idle to cool the turbo?
> 
> With the turbo being water cooled, it'll boil off some coolant if you shut it off with the turbo too hot.
> 
> Mike



I never noticed the load before I turn the engine off but I never let it run before I shut the motor off so this possibly could be it.


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

jsusanka said:


> that is about where my level is currently.
> 
> car is running normal, no overheating, a little coolant smell every now and then but nothing on the ground and no leaks to my naked eye. I know it was higher when I took it in last January to have the dealer check out the smell. They did the dye test and could not find any leaks but they topped it off and it was higher than it is currently.
> 
> One thing I do have to say is the hvac is the best I ever had on the car. My ac freezes my daughter out in the back seat and the heat is rarely on full hot even on the coldest of days.



Looks low to me, but would hope that is one of the things they supposedly check when they change the oil!

My AC and heat are great too. A lot of people complained about the AC not being cold. Mine will freeze you out.


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

jdubb11 said:


> the heat is rarely on full hot even on the coldest of days.
> 
> when you say coldest days, how cold is that. my ac is cold but my heat and car warm up plain sucks.



My heat is great ONCE it warms up! It is very slow to warm up compared to other new cars I've owned. My rear defroster takes forever to start working too. Sixteen months and she's back to her maker!


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

bartonmd said:


> What kind of load are you running how long before shutting down? e.g. do you pull in and park it 1/8 mile after running 80mph on the interstate, without letting it idle to cool the turbo?
> 
> With the turbo being water cooled, it'll boil off some coolant if you shut it off with the turbo too hot.
> 
> Mike


I NEVER knew this! You're supposed to let the car run before shutting it off? For how long? I must have missed that section in the owner's manual.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

6speed said:


> My ECO maximum coolant level when cold will not stay there. A few times I have added a cup or more of Dex-Cool to the arrow on the side. I drive 40 miles, let it cool all day, & check. It falls an inch. The car gurgles about 10 minutes when I shut it off. There are no leaks on the ground or in the engine compartment. Outside the vehicle, there is a faint smell of coolant. The reservoir cap is snug tight. Does anyone know where my coolant is going & what the problem/correction is?


6speed,
I would like to apologize for the issues that you are experiencing with your Cruze. I would also recommend that you take your Cruze into your dealer to have them look into this for you. Please keep me posted on the progress with your dealer. If you have any questions, comments or concerns please feel free to contact me anytime.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

jsusanka said:


> I have the same problem please let us know what they find. The coolant seems like it gets to a certain and then stays at that level but I could be wrong. I have a smell of coolant at times but no leaks and already had the dealer look at it and they did not find anything but they topped it off with coolant and now it is down again.



jsusanka,
I would also suggest that you take your Cruze into your dealer to have them look into this for you. Please keep me posted on the progress with your dealer. If you have any questions, comments or concerns please feel free to contact me anytime.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## Bohdan (Apr 28, 2012)

So far my levels goes up and down slightly dependent on how hot the engine is and after it cools down. This is the only coolant tank I have owned that does not have a low point marked. It has the high up arrow but nothing below.This coolant issue seems to be one of the biggest problems other then trans going for the Cruze. I have seen other Cruze cars in my travels models from 2011 and a few 2012 and have spoken to many owners that I have met in coffee shops that are not members like we are and have seen there coolant levels. They think this is normal to keep adding to it as times goes by. Many I have seen are around at the half point or less. I have asked them to join this site and to get real answers to this issue. This coolant issue may just continue with the 2013 models since what has really changed parts wise from early 2012 to now. Does GM have a fix for this issue since to keep going back to the dealer and wasting time for them not to be able to locate this problem. I wonder if the coolant that cools the Turbo is slowly being blown thru it and since it is so little over time is not noticeble.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

fastdriver-

That's where my 2012 Cruze level is as well. Doesn't appear to change much, and I believe the car was delivered with a level near there. 

Here's my theory:
As the heat is used the cold coolant is returned near the thermostat. This keeps that area cool, and the thermostat to the radiator closed. When you shut off the car coolant loop from the heater core, to the block, to the overflow bottle is under extreme heat and the bottle overpressurizes and vents. 

Try not running the heater all the way on hot, so that the cold coolant opens the termostat to the radiator. This will cool the car faster when it's shut off. 

Also try shutting of the heat 1-2 minutes before your planning on shutting off the car. I believe this keeps the temperature down, by allowing the entire radiator to act as a heat sink when the car is off. Also seems to be less "antifreeze smell" in the garage. (That's another issue.. (Search Radiator Coolant Smell) on this forum. 

As for the fellow Minnesotan with no heat.. Drive with no blower motor until the coolant temperature gets to 190F+. This can take 3-4 miles with the cruze.. Once over 190F, slowly turn up the heat.. 

It is possible in cold minnesota to turn the heat on full blast and watch the Diagnostic Instrument Center temperature Drop from 220F down to 190F. 

It's a small engine, and if you don't allow the engine to come to temperature before using the heat, well then your going to have problems. 

I think the coolant system is actually over designed, because of the Turbo during hot summer temperatures that it sort of effects us when it's cold outside.. No I haven't tried blocking the grill, I don't think it's that bad.

Or use the remote starter.. Assuming that you have one..


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

FYI members that feel they are 'losing coolant'..

Check your thermostat housing and underneath. If you don't know where it is, it is on the right side of the engine, as if you were staring at it from the front of your car. Check and see if there is any sign of coolant on your transmission case and bellhousing.

Reason I mention this, I've serviced quite a few Cruzes already because some of the gaskets on the thermostat cover or the whole assembly itself(where it attaches to the engine) were 'twisted' from the factory.

Just a heads up. I have the occaisional smell and have to top it off every once in a while myself, but I have no idea where my coolant is going.


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## Bohdan (Apr 28, 2012)

On the 1.4 engine looks like it is on the left side where the main belt drive is and it is connected to the water pump yes.


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## jdubb11 (Mar 14, 2012)

thanks for the thoughts. my cruse doesnt show the temp in the dic. sounds like they changed that between 2011 and 2012. however i can watch the temp needle go down at stoplights =(


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

Thanks all. I'll keep an eye on it. Just seemed like it was on the low side.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

fastdriver said:


> Speaking of coolant- does this look normal? I took this a while ago and think the engine was cold. Thanks.
> 
> 
> View attachment 8288


Way too low.


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

obermd said:


> Way too low.



Thanks. When I bring it in to have the "data decoder" installed, I'll have them check it. With 11,700 miles I shouldn't be looking to add coolant, but this car is like no other I have owned so I better be more vigilant about everything for the next 16 months.


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## GoldenCruze (Dec 18, 2011)

fastdriver said:


> Speaking of coolant- does this look normal? I took this a while ago and think the engine was cold. Thanks.
> 
> 
> View attachment 8288


Normal. That is exactly the level for my car since I bought it. Some will think that it is low, but you only need enough in the tank to prevent air getting into the system when it cools. All of that empty space is for expansion if the system really overheats. But it probably wouldn't hurt to add another half inch or so of coolant.

I suspect that some may be getting the antifreeze smell because they see the coolant level, think its low, and add more fluid than it is designed for. When everything heats up it can vent. There really needs to be a cold level mark on that tank so that people don't guess.

Here's my experiences with mystery coolant leaks. In a couple of cases the problem was a slow leak at the water pump seal. The seal held with engine running. After shutdown the leak was so slow that the coolant evaporated because the block was still hot. When it finally cooled, the pressure was reduced enough in the cooling system so that it didn't leak anymore.

Another mystery leak was a top engine leak. The coolant would rapidly drop to a certain level and stay there. In my case it turned out be an intake manifold gasket leak on a V8. Very hard to find. I suspect that any other source at the top of an engine could act the same.

A good shop can perform ares sure test. If they don't and say there isn't a leak, then you'll have to insist on the test.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Bohdan said:


> On the 1.4 engine looks like it is on the left side where the main belt drive is and it is connected to the water pump yes.


Negative sir. Thats just your inlet. Look on the right, where the outlet hose is connected. Thats your therm assembly.


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## bfitz (Oct 24, 2012)

what kind of coolant should I use for my 1.4 L turbo Cruze?


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## Bohdan (Apr 28, 2012)

I found this on GMs site for the 1.4 engine for 2012. The thermostat location has been circled and this is what my engine looks like.


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## bartonmd (Jun 30, 2011)

fastdriver said:


> I NEVER knew this! You're supposed to let the car run before shutting it off? For how long? I must have missed that section in the owner's manual.


This isn't a Cruze thing. This is an "every turbo car" thing. 

The Cruze isn't as prone to eating bearings and coking oil and stuff as some of the older, non-water-cooled turbos, but the turbos are still really hot, and more so when they've been run hard without cooling them down. Idling and letting the turbos cool is a big thing with diesels, because the turbos are largely not water cooled.

Mike


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## taywell33 (Mar 20, 2012)

I have been having the same issues with my wife's fully loaded LTZ. She claimed she smelled anti freeze in the car after approximately 15 min of highway driving. After looking at the reservoir tank I noticed it was half gone with only 8,000 miles on the car. I took pictures of the engine the day my wife got the car. I took the car into the dealership and they filled the reservoir up with UV coolant and told me to bring it back in a week to look for leaks. After a week took it back to the dealer NOTHING! I didn't believe the dealer so I took a handheld black light from my son's fingerprinting kit-went all over the engine with the lights out NOTHING! couldn't check the heater core of course without disassembling the car.

My wife and I noticed antifreeze smell in the garage and I read somewhere on this forum that the smell is the result from the reservoir tank being located in front of a air filter on the firewall. So I decided to try this cheap fix (pictured) to run the overflow of the reservoir to the bottom of the car with some cheap hosing I got at Lowes in the plumbing department and some gutter sealant around the hose at the tank. My wife hasn't noticed the smell in the car since and it is hardly noticeable (if at all) in the garage.. This fix hasn't resolved the loss of coolant so I guess until that is resolved somehow I'll keep topping off the coolant every 6-12 months. Hope that helps some people having the same issues.


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## GoldenCruze (Dec 18, 2011)

> his fix hasn't resolved the loss of coolant so I guess until that is resolved somehow I'll keep topping off the coolant every 6-12 months.


 Keep in mind that the purpose of the reservoir is to keep air out of the radiator, which helps improve cooling capacity of the system. Judging from those pictures, it looks to me that you are over filling the reservoir. The problem here is that there isn't a clear marking for the cold fill level, only the max hot level. My car brand new had about an inch of coolant in the bottom of that tank when I bought it and I haven't had to add anything to it yet. What is important is that the bottom opening of the tank remains covered with coolant when the engine is cold so that air doesn't enter the radiator. That huge empty space left in the tank is for hot fluid expansion. In your case I'll bet that the fluid is expanding so much that it going our of the over flow tube. Leave it alone, and don't add any fluid. I'll bet that you will see the fluid stabilize and not drop any more.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

bartonmd said:


> This isn't a Cruze thing. This is an "every turbo car" thing.
> 
> The Cruze isn't as prone to eating bearings and coking oil and stuff as some of the older, non-water-cooled turbos, but the turbos are still really hot, and more so when they've been run hard without cooling them down. Idling and letting the turbos cool is a big thing with diesels, because the turbos are largely not water cooled.
> 
> Mike


Since the owner's manual doesn't address idling the car for a couple of minutes after a long run, I wonder if the noise some members, including me, have reported is the car cooling off the engine and turbo. My Montana had a cool down feature for it's engine as well, so I know GM does this for some vehicles.


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

bartonmd said:


> This isn't a Cruze thing. This is an "every turbo car" thing.
> 
> The Cruze isn't as prone to eating bearings and coking oil and stuff as some of the older, non-water-cooled turbos, but the turbos are still really hot, and more so when they've been run hard without cooling them down. Idling and letting the turbos cool is a big thing with diesels, because the turbos are largely not water cooled.
> 
> Mike


That may be, but I have NEVER owned a turbo before and never knew this and did NOT see anything about this in the owner's manual. If it is so important, WHY isn't it in the manual?


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

fastdriver said:


> That may be, but I have NEVER owned a turbo before and never knew this and did NOT see anything about this in the owner's manual. If it is so important, WHY isn't it in the manual?



Because it is not important on the cruze. If the turbo is to hot at shutdown it sounds like they have a circulating pump to cool to a safe level. I have yet to hear this pump as other have, but I tend to be easy on the car the last 2-10miles of a drive. At most I idle for 10 seconds before I shut the car off. 

Since turbos were first put on tractors it was known you needed to idle after working the engine/turbo to cool things down. I remember being on an uncles farm as a kid, they would leave the tractors idling while they ate lunch(20-30minutes) just to cool the super heated turbos.


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## bryanakron40 (Nov 8, 2012)

Honestly, I don't think it would make that much of a difference. It has been printed in many owner's manuals over the years and the majority of people ignore it. Also, since these aren't a SS model with high HP, they may have deemed it unnecessary.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Add my ECO to the list of coolant leaks. I had the flourescent dye put in on my way home from work. I've dropped about an inch of coolant in the last 4,500 miles. I'll keep an eye on my level and when the car gets an oil change at 18K we'll put the black light to the underside of the engine.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

I bought some anti freeze and topped it off on 0ct 23rd following the instructions in the manual. So far the level has stayed the same and I smelled antifreeze by the over flow tank a few times but the level hasn't dropped and I have no puddles under the car. I did notice the cap came off really easy and when I was putting it back it seemed like I had had to turn a lot more times than when I did taking it off. When I put the cap on I stopped when it started to get hard and could turn anymore then I turned the car off and was cleaning up and I tightened the cap one more time and it turned really easily like 3/4 a turn and now it seems like it is on better than it was before I added anti-freeze. I don't know maybe I am imagining it but hopefully my cap just wasn't on properely before.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

obermd said:


> Since the owner's manual doesn't address idling the car for a couple of minutes after a long run, I wonder if the noise some members, including me, have reported is the car cooling off the engine and turbo. My Montana had a cool down feature for it's engine as well, so I know GM does this for some vehicles.


I've never idled my turbo cars before shut down unless I've been driving them really, really hard. Coking doesn't happen with water-cooled turbos (or with a good synthetic oil used); it was moreso something that happened with the old oil-cooled Garrett turbos on old Volvos/Saabs at the onset of the turbocharging era. Both turbo technology and oil technology have come a long way since then and made this an unnecessary practice.


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## SwaggerWagon (Nov 15, 2011)

Sorry to bump this if there is another thread about this that is more current.

2012 Cruze Eco MT *33,308 @ Overheat*
I have been going thru **** for the last week and it all climaxed today.
I was preparing for a road trip between Buffalo, NY and Provo, UT starting the weekend before last. *I'm spark noting the rest because i'm so frustrated at the moment, even though this may look too long... the bullshit i've had to deal with is ridiculous*
So i popped the hood to see if i had enough wiper fluid and to see if everything was alright and i noticed my coolant was down to exactly where the pic is from the first page. I called my local Chevy mechanic who is a legit guy and he told me to just add some dexcool and water like the manual says. I drove from Buffalo to eastern Ohio the next day and freaked out cause i completely forgot to grab some dexcool because he checked the car @ my house. Walked into a dealership in OH and they gave me a jug and told me to go for it. Popped the hood and although the engine was warm but not scalding from the drive cause it cooled for a bit i decided to open it up. When i did so it depressurized and filled the tank right back up to the line. Problem solved? ......guess not
-Drove all the way to Utah, no problems. Came out of the hotel in the morning, popped the hood and it was down again. 
-I decided that i would need an oil change around half way home so i decided to get it done in Provo.
-Took it to Larry H. Miller Chevrolet (insert rage from this point forward)
-Service man at the desk is a complete tool
-I comment that it freaked me out that regular gas is 85 and he responds with "I know, it's great isn't it" and i say no it's not cause you're not supposed to run less than 87 in my car..... he tells me i'm wrong..... i point out it's a Cruze... he THEN agrees
-Tell him my coolant was low right after he checks my mileage and he says it's because i need my "30,000mile Service"
-Insists i have this service done even though half the things on it have been done in the last 2 months (tire rotation, alignment and too much else to list) for $489!!!!!!!!!! 
-I check CruzeTalk and find out this is bullshit, i call my dealership who tells me it's bullshit, i then check the owners manual again... no extra service until 45k
-I say absolutely not and he badgers me about it, quits and does only the oil change
-I notice it's only $40 and ask if it shouldn't be more because of the synthetic oil and he says it's only semi-synthetic and that's why it's only $40
-Two hours later i realize my car is outside the waiting trailer and no one said a single word to me while i was the only person in the waiting room
-Service cashier gives me two free car washes, never see service man again
-Drive back to the hotel, no probs
-That night i drive from Provo to Orem (like 15 mins), pop the hood and my coolant tank is full a bit above the line and it's literally boiling.... steam coming off it..... never seen or heard this happen but the engine temp maxes out @ 217-219 for the rest of my adventures until overheat.
-Today, three days later i head out from Provo to Canon City, CO
-Make it thru numerous deserts and stop twice with the car off for at least a half hour at a time
-Right in front of Vail, CO my heat guages go crazy
-Car goes into engine idle mode, make it about an 8th of a mile farther with reduced power to a safe spot
-Complete engine power failure after stopped for no more than 30 seconds
-Short line of fluid about 20 feet out back of car
-Change Oil soon light and numerous other come on after car is turned off
-Fan runs for a few minutes after car is off
On* tows me to Silverthorne, CO to Hudson Chevy

I'm a 21 y/o Army Officer with a decent understanding of cars and machinery but obviously not enough.
Sorry for the typos and lack of proper grammar from my rage.
Worst Memorial Day ever.
What in the **** just happened?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

SwaggerWagon said:


> Sorry to bump this if there is another thread about this that is more current.
> 
> 2012 Cruze Eco MT *33,308 @ Overheat*
> I have been going thru **** for the last week and it all climaxed today.
> ...


When I got here my question was "how far down?" If only a little it's most likely from overpressure in the system that resulted from climbing from 800 ft above sea level to over 8,000 ft, which you had to do to get to Provo from Buffalo, Ohio. However, I suspect a hose or clamp else from later in your post.



SwaggerWagon said:


> -I decided that i would need an oil change around half way home so i decided to get it done in Provo.
> -Took it to Larry H. Miller Chevrolet (insert rage from this point forward)
> -Service man at the desk is a complete tool
> -I comment that it freaked me out that regular gas is 85 and he responds with "I know, it's great isn't it" and i say no it's not cause you're not supposed to run less than 87 in my car..... he tells me i'm wrong..... i point out it's a Cruze... he THEN agrees


85 Octane was the normal regular for areas above 4,500 ft in the US, and still works in most cars in the US above 4,500 ft. It doesn't work in the Cruze, including the LS with it's NA engine.



SwaggerWagon said:


> -Tell him my coolant was low right after he checks my mileage and he says it's because i need my "30,000mile Service"
> -Insists i have this service done even though half the things on it have been done in the last 2 months (tire rotation, alignment and too much else to list) for $489!!!!!!!!!!
> -I check CruzeTalk and find out this is bullshit, i call my dealership who tells me it's bullshit, i then check the owners manual again... no extra service until 45k
> -I say absolutely not and he badgers me about it, quits and does only the oil change


Good catch and good for you standing your ground. This guy is an idiot. When I purchased my ECO from Ed Bozarth Park Meadows I specifically asked about this because I do know that GM would sometimes change the service requirements at altitude. This is not the case for the Cruze.



SwaggerWagon said:


> -I notice it's only $40 and ask if it shouldn't be more because of the synthetic oil and he says it's only semi-synthetic and that's why it's only $40


That's all I pay for an oil change at Ed Bozarth when I use the AC Delco Dexos 1 oil.



SwaggerWagon said:


> -Two hours later i realize my car is outside the waiting trailer and no one said a single word to me while i was the only person in the waiting room
> -Service cashier gives me two free car washes, never see service man again


You finally found someone, in this case the cashier, who cares about the customer. He/She won't last long there if the first guy you talked to is typical.



SwaggerWagon said:


> -Drive back to the hotel, no probs
> -That night i drive from Provo to Orem (like 15 mins), pop the hood and my coolant tank is full a bit above the line and it's literally boiling.... steam coming off it..... never seen or heard this happen but the engine temp maxes out @ 217-219 for the rest of my adventures until overheat.
> -Today, three days later i head out from Provo to Canon City, CO
> -Make it thru numerous deserts and stop twice with the car off for at least a half hour at a time
> ...


This section is why I changed my mind about the reason for your coolant drop. Your car had a pressure related leak that finally got to a point that it failed completely. This kept the coolant system from properly pressurizing, which is why it was boiling. Make sure your oil is changed as part of the coolant system is repair. It should be covered as part of the repair since you just had it done (and should be in GM's tracking system for your car since it was done at a dealership. The change engine oil light came on because the OLM can't tell if the oil was damaged by the overheat in the engine.



SwaggerWagon said:


> On* tows me to Silverthorne, CO to Hudson Chevy
> 
> I'm a 21 y/o Army Officer with a decent understanding of cars and machinery but obviously not enough.
> Sorry for the typos and lack of proper grammar from my rage.
> ...


Hopefully Hudson Chevy takes care of you. When you get your car back, please double check the coolant level to ensure it's at the top of the arrow on the tank. Anything above that is a guaranteed way to get coolant odors in the engine bay and outside the car (and possible inside the cabin). Anything below that and we don't know what the long term impact to the engine will be because the coolant will boil at a lower level.

Thank you for your service to our country.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Has this issue been resolved? Please keep me posted and let me know if there is anything that I can do to assist you. Private message is the quickest way to contact me. Thank you for serving!

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Beat me to it Jackie. I was also going to ask if SwaggerWagon's coolant leak has been fixed.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

I am waiting and hoping to see a positive response too obermd! We will see!

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## upstater (Feb 22, 2011)

Two years worth of coolant smell both interior and exterior of my 2011 Cruze. Had water pump, heater core, reservoir tank patch job and HVAC box replacement. Car still smells of coolant inside cabin. Documented this month by servicing dealer. Make sure you get every repair order for your concerns. Read them before leaving. If they are not accurate tell them to correct it. You will need it. Went through all this B.S. only to hire a lawyer and GM still rolled right through the 60 day response deadline in my state. To quote my dealership service director "that's quite the car you've got there". This is constructive information if you have a Cruze that GM cannot cure.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

upstater, I'm going to take a huge guess here that your engine cowl is leaking like a sieve. Get this sealed off and have your coolant surge tank and pressure cap replaced. The coolant surge tank/pressure cap seal is the only thing that dealerships can't test and many of our engine cowls leak air from the engine bay right to the cabin air intake. Also, get your cabin air filter replaced as it's most likely full of glycol particles.


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

After everything I read in this thread, I am no closer to a reason for my coolant loss.
I have a 2011 ECO with 52K. I have filled the tank 3 times after I found it empty. The last time resulted in a "no heat" condition which led me right to the tank. 
I do _not_ have the coolant smell issue. I _cannot_ detect any visible leaks.
But the coolant is going someplace.
After the recalls ( awaiting the third one ) a bad transmission ECM, replacement of the A/C evaporator, around 15 days in the shop so far, and now this coolant issue, I am not happy.
First Chevy ... may be my last.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

flstc1450, 

I am sorry to hear you are having this concern with your Cruze. I would like to look into this further for you. Please private message me your name, VIN, phone number, dealership, and mileage. I look forward to hearing from you soon. 

Erica Tiffany
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

Went for a short drive yesterday. Plenty of heat, but after returning to the car a couple hours later and driving home ... NO HEAT !
Temp gauge showed normal operating range, checked tank and level was visible.
I am heading for the dealer this AM, but don't hold much hope of them finding the intermittent problem with the heat, or coolant loss.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

flstc1450 said:


> Went for a short drive yesterday. Plenty of heat, but after returning to the car a couple hours later and driving home ... NO HEAT !
> Temp gauge showed normal operating range, checked tank and level was visible.
> I am heading for the dealer this AM, but don't hold much hope of them finding the intermittent problem with the heat, or coolant loss.


PM Erica your info to hopefully avoid or at least cut the Tug of War games short.


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## Blue_RS (Aug 30, 2013)

The coolant smell is very strong in the engine bay and interior( when i have the heat on, if i turn the hvac on recirculate its not as strong.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Blue_RS said:


> The coolant smell is very strong in the engine bay and interior( when i have the heat on, if i turn the hvac on recirculate its not as strong.


That is most likely a cap not holding pressure, either by virtue of a failure in the cap or the surge tank throat having a area where the cap can't seal......the area leaking, being just ahead of the cabin air inlet, is allowing the heater to draw the cooling system vapors into the cabin......as you said, hardly does it when in recirculate.
When in recirculate, only about 10 to 20 percent of the outlet air in the cabin is outside air.

So, bum cap or tank or both.

Rob


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Blue_RS said:


> The coolant smell is very strong in the engine bay and interior( when i have the heat on, if i turn the hvac on recirculate its not as strong.


This is a real good indicator that you have a coolant leak in the engine bay. Your service department should be able to find and fix it. If they can't they need their noses checked.


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

Merc6 said:


> PM Erica your info to hopefully avoid or at least cut the Tug of War games short.


Have done !
Also been advised by dealer that water pump is leaking and is being replaced today.
I never saw any signs of leaks, but the coolant went someplace.
I hope it fixes the intermittent heat issue.
Recall #4 being done while in the shop.


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## ChuzCruze (Feb 9, 2012)

My Cruze is in the dealership (been there for four days now) for the coolant smell inside and outside of the vehicle. Having the HVAC assembly replaced after having a water pump replaced, the coolant reservoir PI done, coolant reservoir cap replaced and several cooling system pressure checks. My wife and I are buying her a new vehicle this month to replace her Toyota Yaris with a SUV...and it will not be a GM, which is disappointing, just too many issues with the Cruze.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

flstc1450 said:


> Have done !
> Also been advised by dealer that water pump is leaking and is being replaced today.
> I never saw any signs of leaks, but the coolant went someplace.
> I hope it fixes the intermittent heat issue.
> Recall #4 being done while in the shop.


It leaks slow enough to be burned off by the heat of the engine w/o smoke show from what I been hearing reason they say look careful for the residue. It must be an extremely slow leak as when I had a pinhole leak in the hose to my heater core on my other car it bellowed clouds of smoke out from under the hood and into the HVAC system. I **** near jumped out the car and thought it was on fire. 


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

Merc6 said:


> It leaks slow enough to be burned off by the heat of the engine w/o smoke show from what I been hearing reason they say look careful for the residue. It must be an extremely slow leak as when I had a pinhole leak in the hose to my heater core on my other car it bellowed clouds of smoke out from under the hood and into the HVAC system. I **** near jumped out the car and thought it was on fire.
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


I am sure that slow leak did burn off while driving. The leak occurred over a long time, I noticed the tank level at 40k and finally had the pump replaced at 52K.
One thing I must add is the dealer plays a big part in these issues. Some techs and dealers are better. My dealer seems to bend over backwards to accommodate me, as they have each time I needed a repair. I either got a loaner car or rides back to my house, and then picked up upon completion of the repair.
Once again, I have had too many repairs, but they haven't cost me anything ... yet.
Hopefully the car has been sorted out and future production vehicles will be free of issues.

Plus, my wife *loves* the car. So long as she is happy, my life is good.
BTW ... over the course of 52K mileage, average fuel economy is 32.


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## Beth'sRS (Jan 21, 2013)

Took my 2011 into the dealer on Saturday for the recall work... after 20 minutes they came out and said my water pump was leaking and needed to be replaced. It has 31000 miles on it. Glad to see I'm not alone! I too was skeptical when they first told me, since I haven't seen any leak evidence at all. (Well, until the tech pulled off my air box and showed me the coolant leaking!) LOL. 
I'm just glad it happened under warranty. :dry:


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Hi Beth'sRS and flstc1450,

I'm glad to hear the dealer is doing their part in order to get your concerns addressed and get you back no the road! Keep us posted if anything changes. 

Sincerely, 

Jonathan A. (Assisting Jackie)
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## RedChevy (May 22, 2011)

I just had my 2011 to the dealer for the exact same condition.
They found 'no problem' and told me that adding a pint of coolant every 5K is 'normal'.

I believe this is an engineering problem that GM won't admit to for $$ reasons...I'm glad I have documented mine in case it worsens later on...


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## MyShibbyEco (Jan 21, 2012)

RedChevy said:


> I just had my 2011 to the dealer for the exact same condition.
> They found 'no problem' and told me that adding a pint of coolant every 5K is 'normal'.
> 
> I believe this is an engineering problem that GM won't admit to for $$ reasons...I'm glad I have documented mine in case it worsens later on...


Did they by chance do a pressure leak down test? Seems like a lot of the cars reported have been passing that test, but still lose coolant. Your best course of action (and what I did) is to put a dye in your coolant and try to pin point where it is leaking from (start by looking at the water pump pulley shaft). This way you can point it out to the dealer and they cannot argue it. See my post here for where to look for the dye residue.

I think this should be a sticky explaining possible actions for this topic. We have a lot of complaints as well as solutions on this board, it would probably make sense to consolidate them. Personally I think the dye-in-coolant approach is the cheapest and best resolution for pin pointing an external coolant leak, especially if one is battling what the dealer says.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

RedChevy said:


> I just had my 2011 to the dealer for the exact same condition.
> They found 'no problem' and told me that adding a pint of coolant every 5K is 'normal'.


ROFL. Sounds like the Ford dealer that told me a quart of oil every 500 miles is normal consumption.


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## JohnnyV (Dec 17, 2013)

My wife's cruze goes into the dealership this friday morning for the same issue. Not sure how long it took for this to happen but we noticed monday morning that the heat was no longer working properly in the car. That's when we noticed the coolant was low so we topped that up and now its going in friday to get looked at. Also noticed the odd time a coolant smell in the car.


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

Chevy Customer Care said:


> Hi Beth'sRS and flstc1450,
> 
> I'm glad to hear the dealer is doing their part in order to get your concerns addressed and get you back no the road! Keep us posted if anything changes.
> 
> ...


Sadly, the Cruze will return to my dealer Monday morning. After a long period of extreme cold temps, my wife said that the control knob for the temp has no effect. It's been so cold she has been blasting the heater, but as temps subsided she attempted to lower the temp. Turning the temp to full cold has no effect ! The heater and all vents continue to blow flames.
I drove the car for a 60 mile loop and was disappointed to find yet another problem, confirming what my wife told me. It was raining and in the high 30's. I needed heat and defrosters, but had to drive in the rain with the windows open so I could breathe, as the rain came into the car with the windows partially down.
I also smell a slight anti-freeze odor now too. The wife doesn't know what that smells like, but does now.
*Can this be related in any way to the replacement of the water pump?
Could the mechanic have accidentally unhooked something, changed a setting or otherwise caused another problem ?
*
Of course the A/C won't work in the summer either if I can't control the temps now.
That issue already had multiple repairs when new.

I will update Monday afternoon.


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

Update to my post #62.
I know I may now be in the wrong thread, but here goes.
The dealer inspected the car this morning and told me I needed a temperature door actuator.
*Part not in stock, so the car sits at the dealer.*
Cost to install actuator, program and calibrate system and labor is, $508 plus tax.
For a car, less then 3 years old, with 52500 miles, this really is an unacceptable repair.
I asked if the replacement of the evaporator ( done previously ) had any connection, I was told the warranty has expired on the car and the repair.
So to sum this up, I am without a car. I will pay over $500 for a repair. 

But, the coolant reservoir has not lost any fluid since the water pump was replaced.


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

flstc1450 said:


> I asked if the replacement of the evaporator ( done previously ) had any connection, I was told the warranty has expired on the car and the repair.


The part should have a time frame but workmanship should not. 
If a previous repair exceeded the 12month warranty but the technician accidentally pinched a wiring harness and it too 18 months to cut through the wires the dealer should cover that repair.

Now if you are worried about a previous repair affecting the actuator then make sure you get the old part back. All the actuators I've replaced in the past did not have to be destroyed to remove them. Could the Cruze be different? Yes, hopefully someone who has replaced an actuator can chime in.


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## flstc1450 (Dec 31, 2013)

Diesel Dan said:


> The part should have a time frame but workmanship should not.
> If a previous repair exceeded the 12month warranty but the technician accidentally pinched a wiring harness and it too 18 months to cut through the wires the dealer should cover that repair.
> 
> Now if you are worried about a previous repair affecting the actuator then make sure you get the old part back. All the actuators I've replaced in the past did not have to be destroyed to remove them. Could the Cruze be different? Yes, hopefully someone who has replaced an actuator can chime in.


Thanks !
I will ask for the old part when I pick up the car.
Hopefully Chevy customer care will assist in some way.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Hi flstc1450,

I would like to call your dealership for you. Could you please PM me more information. I will need your VIN, current mileage, full name, a good contact number and the name of the dealership you went to for service. I will look into this for you.

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## jmurf (Mar 25, 2013)

During my weekly fluid checks i noticed my coolant level in the surge tank was at the same level as the pic that fastdriver posted. I took it into the dealership and they jumped all over the water pump. They found it seeping from the upper part of the pump. They topped it off for now and will call me when the water pump comes in. My dealership knew about the water pump/coolant smell issues and didnt give me the run around at all. It looks like they are going to make it right. BTW...its a 2013 ECO AT with 18,700 miles


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

My water pump flaked at 77,400 miles. It's been losing coolant every single one of those miles, just a reservoir full every 10-15k miles. The consumption did speed up a little this fall. I last topped it off 4000 miles ago, and it went through that quickly enough to drip red Dex-Cool down the side of the block and puddle under the car a little. The pump itself is chirping, and has coolant residue all over it. The car's at the dealer right now getting looked at. 

2012 Eco MT, 77,400 miles.


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## cruze01 (Mar 25, 2011)

jmurf said:


> During my weekly fluid checks i noticed my coolant level in the surge tank was at the same level as the pic that fastdriver posted. I took it into the dealership and they jumped all over the water pump. They found it seeping from the upper part of the pump. They topped it off for now and will call me when the water pump comes in. My dealership knew about the water pump/coolant smell issues and didnt give me the run around at all. It looks like they are going to make it right. BTW...its a 2013 ECO AT with 18,700 miles


Hope you have better luck that I did. They recently replaced the pump on my 2013 and it still leaks and smells!


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## ChuzCruze (Feb 9, 2012)

jmuf - I hope that the water pump replacement cures your "coolant smell" issues. I had mine replaced and the smell returned. I also had the HVAC assembly replaced...and the smell returned. I have had other items fixed/replaced and still have the coolant smell issue with my Cruze. I hope you have better luck!


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## jmurf (Mar 25, 2013)

ChuzCruze said:


> jmuf - I hope that the water pump replacement cures your "coolant smell" issues. I had mine replaced and the smell returned. I also had the HVAC assembly replaced...and the smell returned. I have had other items fixed/replaced and still have the coolant smell issue with my Cruze. I hope you have better luck!


Thanks for the replies everyone. My issue wasn't with the coolant smell issue (at least not yet...keeping my fingers crossed on that one). My issue was with the surge tank not staying topped off. They did replace my water pump and all seems to be just fine so far. I wasn't happy that they over serviced the surge tank when they purged the system, but a few mins of my time and my wife's turkey baster the problem was solved. Now my only problem is that i owe my wife a new turkey baster....she wasn't happy with me for some reason..lol.


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## jemof2 (Aug 22, 2012)

Bohdan said:


> I found this on GMs site for the 1.4 engine for 2012. The thermostat location has been circled and this is what my engine looks like.
> 
> View attachment 8373



My car currently has a small leak and it is on items 314, 315 (most likely cause), 316. Waiting to see how much this will cost or if it will be covered under powertrain warranty. I also have no leaks on the ground and slightly sweet coolant smell.


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## cruze01 (Mar 25, 2011)

jemof2 said:


> My car currently has a small leak and it is on items 314, 315 (most likely cause), 316. Waiting to see how much this will cost or if it will be covered under powertrain warranty. I also have no leaks on the ground and slightly sweet coolant smell.


I just got home from the dealer, they replaced my water pump, tensioner and belt. Service manager told me that GM is going to cover the water pumps under warranty for 10 years or 150k miles.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

cruze01 said:


> I just got home from the dealer, they replaced my water pump, tensioner and belt. Service manager told me that GM is going to cover the water pumps under warranty for 10 years or 150k miles.


In a few days keep an eye out on the level again. Mine dropped 3 lines from all the air that finally worked its way out the system over a week and a half of driving. They topped it off and been fine since *knock on particleboard*


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