# A little more bass



## igorgetz (Dec 18, 2011)

Amplified Bazooka.


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## Gdubs (Apr 23, 2011)

Bzooka tube! I had one and it provided quite a bit of bass in my cobalt. I think the bass on the Pioneer system is decent it lacks real clear High's


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Lots of guys here have the 50watt Bazooka tube. It goes for about $150 It mounts easily in the trunk and has a nice amp included


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## CHUV (Jun 25, 2011)

50W? Would that be enough?


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## Chevyderek72 (May 16, 2011)

CHUV said:


> 50W? Would that be enough?


Depends, for me...no. But for a lot of people I bet its enough. My girlfriend had a 6 or 8 inch bazooka, I don't remember the watts but it sounded really good. It didn't hit very hard or shake very much but it sounded pretty good actually. I've got a single 12 pioneer in a very small box in the corner of my trunk pushing 800 watts rms and I absolutely love it. Hits really hard and sounds great, probably takes up just about the same or less space than a bazooka but it will cost you more. I've got around 500 into my system, but you can always do it for less. I did all in the install so price is with just product.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using AutoGuide App


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## Dpedraza (Oct 24, 2011)

well one that will put you at the higher end of your price point an infinity basslink. I had one in my nissan and it sounded good. Gave me the added bass i wanted but wouldn't rattle the car apart


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## 4piecekit (Mar 17, 2011)

I have a 12 in the trunk but I have to fold down the driver's side rear seat to get it to sound like it did in my old hatchback.


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## Dale_K (Jul 16, 2011)

The 50w Bazooka works excellently. I have one in my Cruze and I had to turn it back after using it for a week with the control knob at 3/4 full. Plus it's pretty easy to install. You don't have to take the dash apart because the correct wires are available at a huge electrical connector near the hood release lever behind the kick panel. And the fuse box is right there too. You can get an add-a-fuse gadget at any auto parts store and kind of double tap the power port fuse. Search bazooka and you'll find some stuff.

I messed up at first and almost tapped into the wrong wires. The right wires, with the right colors are right in front of you when you look at the big connector. The other thread has the color codes.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

i got a jl audio 10w1 ill sell you for 50 bucks,then all youll need is a 500 watt amp and it will be clean bass and you can fine a amp cheap


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## Cruz3r (Jul 13, 2011)

Dale_K said:


> The 50w Bazooka works excellently. I have one in my Cruze and I had to turn it back after using it for a week with the control knob at 3/4 full. Plus it's pretty easy to install. You don't have to take the dash apart because the correct wires are available at a huge electrical connector near the hood release lever behind the kick panel. And the fuse box is right there too. You can get an add-a-fuse gadget at any auto parts store and kind of double tap the power port fuse. Search bazooka and you'll find some stuff.
> 
> I messed up at first and almost tapped into the wrong wires. The right wires, with the right colors are right in front of you when you look at the big connector. The other thread has the color codes.


 hey dale k can you send me a link to that thread with the color codes?


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## cruzeman (Mar 13, 2011)

this link will tell you everything you need to know!!

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/11-appearance-body/989-my-new-interior-lighting.html


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## Dpedraza (Oct 24, 2011)

CHUV said:


> 50W? Would that be enough?


there's a 250 10" version

http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BTA10...G47G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1326164388&sr=8-4


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## Cruz3r (Jul 13, 2011)

thanks cruzeman!


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## awc5004 (Oct 9, 2011)

I went with the 8inch 100watt bazooka and love it. Was like night and day after I installed it. You can get Bazooka BTA8100 BT from amazon for about $160 >>>







http://www.amazon.com/Bazooka-BTA8100-100-Watt-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B0002QYS8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1326238118&sr=8-1 

Pick up the FAST harness package from crutchfield for $40 >>> Bazooka F.A.S.T Package Connect a powered Bazooka Bass Tube® to your factory radio at Crutchfield.com As mentioned before, you will have to get an add-a-circuit, which can be picked up at your local autoparts store. 

Pretty much the same thing as this >>>







http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1326238666&sr=1-2 I tapped into the #6 fuse on my box with a 10 and 20 fuse. Then i just crimped a wire from the add-a-circuit and ran it down to the wire cluster under my e-brake. 
*(pulled from itsbmw's thread) *









The major advantage of going with either a 50 or 100watt bazooka is the fact that you do not have to run an amp wire or access the back of your receiver. Just pull up the upholstery by the foot plate, just below the e-brake, and tap in there. The FAST9999 taps into the cars wires. You then plug its connector into the FAST-BTAH and run it back to your trunk. No need to hook up the RCA cables on the harness.

Also, I tapped into the rear speakers, not my front as per the advice of some of those on this board. When you get down to the wires, peel back some of the electrical tape so you have something to work with. There are many similar color combos down there so make sure you have the right ones. 

Here is what you should be looking for: 
Left Rear: 
(+) Dark Green 
(-) Dark Green, Black Stripe 

Right Rear: 
(+) White 
(-) Dark Blue, Black Stripe

*(pulled from itsbmw's thread) *Left Rear Wires









Hope this helps!


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## Dale_K (Jul 16, 2011)

I'm not so sure the rear speaker wires are the best choice but I can't say for sure since I never tried them. Using the front speaker wires definitely worked well for me.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I wouldn't exactly call a bazooka tube the best bang for the buck. A high tuned, boomy sounding box that provides "loud" but inaccurate bass with poor sound reproduction above 80hz and below 40hz isn't my idea of a great value. Properly designed sub boxes with good subs and a dedicated amp can be had very, very easily for $300 and will not only get louder, but will also sound 10x better than a boom tube. The only real advantage is simplicity.


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## 1990tsi (Apr 29, 2011)

True that, tha bazooka tube is a joke like BOSE. 
With new D class monoblocks being so small and efficient you can mount the thing almost anywhere, use speaker level input or LOC and running a dedicated power wire takes about 5 minutes more than taping your bass tube into the fusebox. 

Now that you have a dedicated amp installed, it's sub time! Alpine has a new 8" that needs something like .25 cubic foot for an enclosure and it supposed to wail.

I'm running one of these in a ported box http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/862298/big/sr104.jpg and a 5 channel PPI amp powering my front components and the sub. 

Sounds waay better than the pioneer system, and a lot better than 'most' people who have just swapped out speakers without amplifying them. total cost, installed myself, is under $350


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## cruzeman (Mar 13, 2011)

well for people that dont want the extra hassle the bazooka does the trick nicely. I couldnt imagine listening to the stock system without the tube in my trunk!!!


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## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

cruzeman said:


> well for people that dont want the extra hassle the bazooka does the trick nicely. I couldnt imagine listening to the stock system without the tube in my trunk!!!


Just like people with 10" subs in boxes couldn't imagine using a tube... and those running 12" subs in ported boxes couldn't imagine living off a 10" -- further, dual 12" or a 15" are all some people will live with. 

It's all about perception. If you've been living with stock audio your entire life, then of course a tube is going to sound amazing. This may be as far as some go... but chances are, if you care enough to upgrade your system by adding a tube for more bass, there will likely come a time where you want even more (we all do eventually no matter what we have) - so there may be some advantages to doing it "right" the first time... however there is nothing wrong with adding the tube as a starter/temp upgrade and taking it from there.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

fredmr said:


> Just like people with 10" subs in boxes couldn't imagine using a tube... and those running 12" subs in ported boxes couldn't imagine living off a 10" -- further, dual 12" or a 15" are all some people will live with.
> 
> It's all about perception. If you've been living with stock audio your entire life, then of course a tube is going to sound amazing. This may be as far as some go... but chances are, if you care enough to upgrade your system by adding a tube for more bass, there will likely come a time where you want even more (we all do eventually no matter what we have) - so there may be some advantages to doing it "right" the first time... however there is nothing wrong with adding the tube as a starter/temp upgrade and taking it from there.


This is a conundrum I face every day as a home theater speaker designer and builder. The problem is that peoples' ears aren't trained to hear what actually sounds correct, only what they think sounds best _relative _to what they've heard before. People will praise BOSE speakers like they're the best things since sliced bread, but my speakers will blow them away in every single aspect. What do you say to someone who bought those silly little BOSE satellite speakers? 

Now, its not all about perception. Its also about what you want. There are bassheads out there for which a 15" sub or two 12" subs are all that will work because all they care about is just being loud at any cost. I went into and out of that phase in about 1 year's time. I'm more concerned now with the accurate reproduction of sound. 

It usually takes people only one listen in any of my cars to completely change their perception about what sounds "good." 

The work involved in setting up a correct system isn't a whole lot more than hooking up a bazooka tube, but the results are vastly better. The beauty of car audio is that you're not alone, and there are people like myself who will guide you through the process, advise you on what parts to purchase, and walk you through every step of the way. 

I set up a system for my buddy's Cobalt in the Fall and he can't stop raving about it. Anyone who shows off their system needs only one listen in his car to shut them up for good. I can post some pictures of that install for anyone interested. 

For anyone who's interested in learning why a correctly designed sub box is important, here's a thread I made on another forum that might be of some use to you. 

Why sub boxes are important


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## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Now, its not all about perception. Its also about what you want. There are bassheads out there for which a 15" sub or two 12" subs are all that will work because all they care about is just being loud at any cost. I went into and out of that phase in about 1 year's time. I'm more concerned now with the accurate reproduction of sound.
> 
> It usually takes people only one listen in any of my cars to completely change their perception about what sounds "good."


People may not know what they want until they have that one listen to a quality system. If their only experience is a less superior product, they are going to perceive that as good, thinking that's what they want when they may not realize how much better it really can be. I'm not an SPL guy either - I was just using the 15" etc example because it seemed to relate more to level of the thread. 

On the other hand I agree - there is a "know what you want" limit sometimes, but I certainly haven't found it; in my case, it's all about budget.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

fredmr said:


> People may not know what they want until they have that one listen to a quality system. If their only experience is a less superior product, they are going to perceive that as good, thinking that's what they want when they may not realize how much better it really can be. I'm not an SPL guy either - I was just using the 15" etc example because it seemed to relate more to level of the thread.
> 
> On the other hand I agree - there is a "know what you want" limit sometimes, but I certainly haven't found it; in my case, it's all about budget.


Likewise. I've discovered its easy to have SPL with no SQ. That's not expensive or complicated. What is complicated is having sound quality, and what's even more complicated is having an effective mixture of both. 

Let me give you an example. I'm currently working on installing an Image Dynamics IDQ15 sub in my Cruze. Its a 15" sub, but it has an unusually low 13.5mm of excursion. It has a very low moving mass, and works excellently in small sealed boxes. The advantage is excellent transient response, and a linear in-cab frequency response from 30hz on up to 120hz. These are about as musical and transparent of a sub as you can get, but they don't make subs like this anymore. In fact, this one was made in around 2001.


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## 1990tsi (Apr 29, 2011)

Wow it's nice to see someone else rocking old school gear in the cruze!

Just came across a pair of 8" PPI flat cones a little older than my 5440 amp that I might try to glass a box for if they still work


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

1990tsi said:


> Wow it's nice to see someone else rocking old school gear in the cruze!
> 
> Just came across a pair of 8" PPI flat cones a little older than my 5440 amp that I might try to glass a box for if they still work


If you think the IDQ15 is old school gear, you should see the front stage amps I'm planning on installing as well. 

These are a Coustic Power Logic AMP-460 and AMP-160. The smaller will power the tweeters and the larger for the woofers, in an active setup using a MiniDSP. These were made in 1992.


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## Slopoke (Jan 4, 2012)

Hopefully this makes sense?
Im going to start my system with the bass and move forward in the car. Have any of you installed a bandpass box in your cruze? Im thinking of pulling the rear deck 6x9 and firing the ports thru the existing holes where the 6x9's are or where. I think the trunk is sealed so tight that not much bass will get into the cab. I dont want a trunk rattling machine
Im going to run my 2 kicker 12's.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Slopoke said:


> Hopefully this makes sense?
> Im going to start my system with the bass and move forward in the car. Have any of you installed a bandpass box in your cruze? Im thinking of pulling the rear deck 6x9 and firing the ports thru the existing holes where the 6x9's are or where. I think the trunk is sealed so tight that not much bass will get into the cab. I dont want a trunk rattling machine
> Im going to run my 2 kicker 12's.


I'm not sure if you're using the term bandpass the way its technically used. A bandpass box is a type of box design that uses separate chambers in a calculated fashion so as to increase output significantly. 

The trunk may be sealed fairly well, but don't be fooled into thinking that bass won't get through. Bass travels through back seats like they don't exist. Sure, it would be louder if you were able to build a bandpass box that had an opening into the cabin, but its not necessary. IMO, it would sound like crap like most (if not all) Kicker subs do. They get loud and can be abused, and that's the extent of their purpose. If that's what you're going for (just plain loud), then you'll be good to go. Your trunk would rattle whether or not you fired the bandpass opening(s) into the cabin directly.


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## Slopoke (Jan 4, 2012)

thanks extreme, yes i will build a dual actually quad chambered box. The only air will be the ports. I race rc cars and when traveling to the track our darn nitro fuel fumes likes to eat glues. It very hard on system components so i have always sealed it away from the trunk space by building bandpass boxes. One of my concerns is how much reflection from the window for the acoustics. Im aware that bass travels thru almost anything. I dropped a temp box from my sons car in the trunk and about broke the license plate frame with the vibration. After many of years i still dont like cars that vibrate  btw my son thoght it was cool. kids.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Slopoke said:


> thanks extreme, yes i will build a dual actually quad chambered box. The only air will be the ports. I race rc cars and when traveling to the track our darn nitro fuel fumes likes to eat glues. It very hard on system components so i have always sealed it away from the trunk space by building bandpass boxes. One of my concerns is how much reflection from the window for the acoustics. Im aware that bass travels thru almost anything. I dropped a temp box from my sons car in the trunk and about broke the license plate frame with the vibration. After many of years i still dont like cars that vibrate  btw my son thoght it was cool. kids.


When you go with that much cone area and presumably power, there's no way to keep vibrations down, plain and simple. You can reduce the audible effects of that vibration by using sound deadening and CLD tiles, but you're not going to outrun it without some serious mass loading and reinforcement. If you want to get loud and keep vibrations down, that's your only option. 

Bass is very non-directional and it will travel through quite a lot. If anything, firing up into the rear window will cause it to be louder due to boundary loading. The same can be experienced if you fire a sub rearward toward the tail lights. This is why home theater subwoofers are mounted in a corner or against a wall. 

To get the loudest loud bass possible, you need both boundary loading and cabin pressurization. The two are combined to create an effect we (in simple terms) call cabin gain. You can pressurize a car's cabin regardless of where you put the subwoofer so as long as its in a box.


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## Slopoke (Jan 4, 2012)

Cool thanks for your advice.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Cruz3r said:


> i know people are gonna say use the search bar for this. but i have looked all over the site and as a amateur to sound systems...what is the best idea for putting some bass into the cruze for about 300 dollars?



I just ordered the 50 W Bazooka Tube from Amazon 143 with shipping. I will need some help on the installation when it comes in next week. I know there are lots of posts about installation and the like. I will check it out when it comes in.


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## Dale_K (Jul 16, 2011)

This thread has some pictures and the color codes for the wires.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/11-appearance-body/989-my-new-interior-lighting.html

Basically you remove the trim panel near the hood release. There is a very large electrical connector right in front of you and the wires are visible. Use the wire taps with the Bazooka to connect to the front speakers. Buy an "add a circuit" fuse and put it on the switched power outlet fuse. Connect the small Bazooka harness. Pry up the plastic trim along the floor sill by the driver's seat and detact the B pillar trim and rear seat sill trim to run the larger Bazooka harness to the trunk. Mount the speaker, plug in the harness and you're good to go.


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## Michel1980 (Jul 24, 2014)

Old? I used to have in my car believe it or not, salvaged woofers from the infamous infinity KAPPA 9RS *yup the 80ts ampkillers* not the crap after Arnie nudell. I blew up the Emit tweeters of my beloved speakers..so took them apart :sad010:


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## jjducky (Oct 22, 2013)

awc5004 said:


> I went with the 8inch 100watt bazooka and love it. Was like night and day after I installed it. You can get Bazooka BTA8100 BT from amazon for about $160 >>>
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is exactly what i did. If you expect to blow out windows you will be disappointed. If you want to add nice bottom end to the existing stock system i recommend this route. Plus if you need space the harness unplugs in a flash and it comes right out.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

What kind of sodemy is going on in this thread with this silly topic of boobzookas.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Someone necro-posted in a nearly 2.5 year old thread. ****...have I been here that long?

Guys, if you have any questions, please create a new thread.


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