# Help me out please cranks but no start pcm low voltage



## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

I have a 2016 chevy cruze lt
My car was running before i parked it for two months now it cranks doesnt start i had the battery checked and charged at autozone still wont crank ive checked all the fuses they work car has fuel pressure

scanned the ecu had some codes and also the control module voltage is at 11.7 i think thats low i checked all the the ground connections by the control module they are fine nothing loose

i really dont know at this point my last option is to go to different autozone and have the battery tested again because i really dont know whats causing low voltage or the circuit being open



















Update: I got the battery recharged again and tested they claim its a good battery i tried to start it up something different happened it kinda weakly started then died
I checked the fuel rail i have pressure 




But after 24 hours and around 6 times trying to start the car the battery is now at 12.3 In the key on position


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## Fireworks234 (Jan 4, 2018)

Yeah that's a low voltage. Not sure if it's so low that a healthy car wouldn't start but definitely low. But can't hurt to get the battery tested again, worst that happens is that you "waste" a trip to Autozone before shelling out cash to start troubleshooting.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

If you had the car sitting for 2 months.. the battery is likely damaged. You have almost 4 years on that battery, I suggest you consider replacement. Based on my prior experience working in an auto parts store, it is hit or miss if you get someone there that knows how to properly test a battery, and how long did they charge it? A completely dead battery will take some time to charge properly, if it can be recovered at all. In the future, for long storage, I recommend you disconnect the battery, or better yet, look into a battery maintainer to keep it charged up, they are pretty cheap, about $10 will get one on Amazon.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Oh, one other thing... your temp says 34 Degrees. If you had a dead battery in freezing temperatures, that can do even more damage to the battery. I'm assuming it's an AGM, but if its a flooded cell, its for sure damaged by freezing.


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## Fireworks234 (Jan 4, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> Oh, one other thing... your temp says 34 Degrees. If you had a dead battery in freezing temperatures, that can do even more damage to the battery. I'm assuming it's an AGM, but if its a flooded cell, its for sure damaged by freezing.


It says engine temp is 34*C


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

Thanks for the replys 
I had the battery recharged again at autozone it was at 12.6-12.7 volts then it dropped it 12.4-12.5 After cranking it about 5 times. But after i installed the charged battery it started weakly then died i disconnected the fuel pump module to check if it will spill out fuel from the fuel rail and it didnt when i put it back on there was definitely pressure 
I cant figure this out i asked autozone they said the battery is good just needs to be charged but i dont understand how a battery can drop from 12.6 to 11.7 in like 3-4 days is that normal?


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Bsuriel3 said:


> Thanks for the replys
> I had the battery recharged again at autozone it was at 12.6-12.7 volts then it dropped it 12.4-12.5 After cranking it about 5 times. But after i installed the charged battery it started weakly then died i disconnected the fuel pump module to check if it will spill out fuel from the fuel rail and it didnt when i put it back on there was definitely pressure
> I cant figure this out i asked autozone they said the battery is good just needs to be charged but i dont understand how a battery can drop from 12.6 to 11.7 in like 3-4 days is that normal?


That kind of drop in 3-4 days would indicate a bad battery. Can you use a jump from another battery, or try a known good battery from another car, at least for a test? I'm about certain you need a new battery from what you describe. If you are able to start and run on another battery that would prove it. Also, try to leave volt meter on the battery as you try to start, and look for the drop. If is going below 9V you have a bad battery. Even at 9V with the starter it is iffy. A proper battery test looks at the battery voltage with a load applied, that is the type of test they should be doing at Autozone. It is quite common for a bad battery with some internal damage to show an acceptable post charge voltage, but when load is applied it drops dramatically. This points to internal resistance within the battery itself. 

One other caution, continued cranking with a weak battery will likely shorten the life of your starter. If the battery is bad, as I suspect it is. It can also put a strain on the alternator as well. In older cars I've had it was not uncommon for the battery and alternator to fail within a short period of time of each other, from that I've learned it is cheaper and easier to replace a weak battery at the first sign of trouble, to save the rest of the electrical system, being the starter, and alternator.. but these days you are also talking about all kinds of computers and electronics, which don't do well with unstable voltage supplies. 

Keep in mind, 4 years on a battery is not bad, depending on your use pattern and climate. Long non-use, non-charge periods are death sentences for batteries in modern cars, all cars now have some parasitic load on the battery when sitting idle, that is how they unlock when you hit the button on that key fob. There are computers running in power save mode, all the time.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Fireworks234 said:


> It says engine temp is 34*C


I see your point, that is about 93 degrees F, which since the engine won't start indicates a very hot climate, and that is also death to a battery, and 4 years in a hot climate is doing pretty well for a battery. That is pretty hot for an engine that is not running.


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

MRO1791 said:


> That kind of drop in 3-4 days would indicate a bad battery. Can you use a jump from another battery, or try a known good battery from another car, at least for a test? I'm about certain you need a new battery from what you describe. If you are able to start and run on another battery that would prove it. Also, try to leave volt meter on the battery as you try to start, and look for the drop. If is going below 9V you have a bad battery. Even at 9V with the starter it is iffy. A proper battery test looks at the battery voltage with a load applied, that is the type of test they should be doing at Autozone. It is quite common for a bad battery with some internal damage to show an acceptable post charge voltage, but when load is applied it drops dramatically. This points to internal resistance within the battery itself.
> 
> One other caution, continued cranking with a weak battery will likely shorten the life of your starter. If the battery is bad, as I suspect it is. It can also put a strain on the alternator as well. In older cars I've had it was not uncommon for the battery and alternator to fail within a short period of time of each other, from that I've learned it is cheaper and easier to replace a weak battery at the first sign of trouble, to save the rest of the electrical system, being the starter, and alternator.. but these days you are also talking about all kinds of computers and electronics, which don't do well with unstable voltage supplies.
> 
> Keep in mind, 4 years on a battery is not bad, depending on your use pattern and climate. Long non-use, non-charge periods are death sentences for batteries in modern cars, all cars now have some parasitic load on the battery when sitting idle, that is how they unlock when you hit the button on that key fob. There are computers running in power save mode, all the time.


After everything i tried Im leaning toward the battery too because the car was working fine before it sat i dont think anything else then the battery can go bad after two months of sitting am i wrong? What else can go bad? Ive never had a start issue untill it sat for two months


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm going to make this easy for you -

REPLACE THE BATTERY

The Cruze is hard on the 12v battery and batteries that test fine will fail to provide enough voltage and current to start and operate the car. Excessive heat and cold will shorten the life of a battery. 34C is hot, no matter how you define hot. 34F wouldn't be cold for a battery.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Is that 11.7 with car cranking or not?

The old style points ignition needed 11 volts cranking to provide spark.


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

I bought the battery to napa and they said the battery is healthy they suggested to check my starter im going to test it tomorrow morning but what do you guys think about it being the starter?


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Put a voltmeter on and post us your cranking volts. Hopefully a close to fully charged battery


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

I changed the battery and it still doesnt work.. ive tried everything that i know of. the car was just Parked for two months..


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Bsuriel3 said:


> I changed the battery and it still doesnt work.. ive tried everything that i know of. the car was just Parked for two months..


To be clear.. you put in a new battery and it is still not starting, or did you put in the 4 year old original battery that was tested and charges and told was fine by NAPA? Have you hooked up a volt meter to the under hood terminals and looked at the voltage during cranking? With all the messing around with the battery, be sure to verify you did not damage a cable in the process. 

It seems unlikely anything other than the battery would be affected by 2 months of sitting, EXCEPT.. Look to see if you have a rodent invasion.. they have been known to chomp on wires and cause electrical nightmares in cars. I have had to place ultrasonic repellent devices under the hood, which slowed them a bit, but had to also add some spices.. Now standard car maintenance includes a dusting of cyanne pepper too.


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

MRO1791 said:


> To be clear.. you put in a new battery and it is still not starting, or did you put in the 4 year old original battery that was tested and charges and told was fine by NAPA? Have you hooked up a volt meter to the under hood terminals and looked at the voltage during cranking? With all the messing around with the battery, be sure to verify you did not damage a cable in the process.
> 
> It seems unlikely anything other than the battery would be affected by 2 months of sitting, EXCEPT.. Look to see if you have a rodent invasion.. they have been known to chomp on wires and cause electrical nightmares in cars. I have had to place ultrasonic repellent devices under the hood, which slowed them a bit, but had to also add some spices.. Now standard car maintenance includes a dusting of cyanne pepper too.


I purchased a new battery and i dont see any damage wrong with the wires Can it be my ignition switch? the car has stalled before when i was making a right turn at a light
Also when the key is inserted i can moves it around kinda flimsy is that normal i havent noticed untill today


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## ezap28ltz (Mar 31, 2013)

Bsuriel3 said:


> I changed the battery and it still doesnt work.. ive tried everything that i know of. the car was just Parked for two months..


Not sure if you checked the fuses or relays


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

ezap28ltz said:


> Not sure if you checked the fuses or relays


I did snd i replaced them just incase


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

Can it be my airflow sensor i have the code p16a7


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Bsuriel3 said:


> I purchased a new battery and i dont see any damage wrong with the wires Can it be my ignition switch? the car has stalled before when i was making a right turn at a light
> Also when the key is inserted i can moves it around kinda flimsy is that normal i havent noticed untill today


Well, that is new information. A stall making a turn is not normal.. a loose key in the ignition doesn't sound right, only one of mine has a key, the Gen 1, and it's not loose and never stalls in a turn. 

Inspect the entire intake and car for issues, it might be more than one problem you are dealing with in this case. That stall was a problem that pre-dated the weak battery from extended storage.


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## Fireworks234 (Jan 4, 2018)

Bsuriel3 said:


> Can it be my airflow sensor i have the code p16a7


That could easily keep a car from running properly. I'd check the MAF wires and make sure they're connected and not chewed through. This could be the culprit right there. Also I think all Gen 2's are keyless and don't put a key in the ignition. Is this a Gen 1?


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Fireworks234 said:


> That could easily keep a car from running properly. I'd check the MAF wires and make sure they're connected and not chewed through. This could be the culprit right there. Also I think all Gen 2's are keyless and don't put a key in the ignition. Is this a Gen 1?


I think only the LT and Premier have keyless start. Pretty sure the LS uses a regular key.


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

I cleaned and disconnected my sensor car still doesnt work i have no clue what it is
I have fuel at the rail sparkplugs are new car cranks alternator is fine new starter and both ignition relays and the fuel pump module works even purchased a new battery 
Im thinking about changing my ignition switch and pcm any suggestions?


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## Fireworks234 (Jan 4, 2018)

WillL84 said:


> I think only the LT and Premier have keyless start. Pretty sure the LS uses a regular key.


News to me. Good to know.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

just because you have fuel don't mean you have pressure. I'd be checking for 60 psi.

maf won't cause the car to not start. It will cause the car to not rev.

that's been my experience with every bad maf I've dealt with.


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Fireworks234 said:


> News to me. Good to know.


Optional on the LT, standard on Premier



> Keyless Open and Start included in the available Convenience Package on LT and standard on Premier.


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## Bsuriel3 (Apr 9, 2020)

snowwy66 said:


> just because you have fuel don't mean you have pressure. I'd be checking for 60 psi.
> 
> maf won't cause the car to not start. It will cause the car to not rev.
> 
> that's been my experience with every bad maf I've dealt with.





snowwy66 said:


> just because you have fuel don't mean you have pressure. I'd be checking for 60 psi.
> 
> maf won't cause the car to not start. It will cause the car to not rev.
> 
> that's been my experience with every bad maf I've dealt with.


if i had a fuel issue wouldnt the car throw a code?


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Bsuriel3 said:


> if i had a fuel issue wouldnt the car throw a code?


No idea on todays cars. 

No on yesteryears cars


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

snowwy66 said:


> just because you have fuel don't mean you have pressure. I'd be checking for 60 psi.
> 
> maf won't cause the car to not start. It will cause the car to not rev.
> 
> that's been my experience with every bad maf I've dealt with.


Seeing how he posted in the 2nd gen he'd have to know where to check. Being that it's a DI engine I'm willing to bet there'd be a code thrown if it didn't have the proper pressure.


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