# Codes, codes, and more codes!



## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

2012 Chevrolet Cruze LT. 1.4l 93k miles. Only use premium unleaded gas. Oil and air/oil filter change (5W-30 full synthetic) every 5-7k miles.

Originally, I kept getting the standard codes pointing to valve issues (P0171, P0106, P0107)

What I've replaced/added:
-New MAP sensor (GM)
-New MAF sensor (Bosch)
-New Coil pack (AC-Delco)- made sure to lightly grease boots (dielectric)
-New Bosch Iridium Spark plugs, pre-gapped and checked to ensure .028 gap
-New Canister Purge Valve (OEM) and evap hose that connects to the purge valve and intake manifold
-New valve cover (AC-Delco)
-BNR throttle body spacer (for the V1 PCV bypass/fix)
-New intake manifold (included all gaskets, AC-Delco)
-V1 PCV bypass/fix (removed orange valve in new intake manifold before installing the fix)
-New negative battery cable 
-New heater HVAC intake line 
-New Positive Crank Case ventilation hose (the corrugated one that goes from turbo to the intake manifold). I bought a new one, but stripped the corrugated hose off, keeping only the the piece with the valve that connects to the turbo, the elbow that connects to the intake manifold, and the small line that runs from the turbo to the bottom of the manifold. I replaced the corrugated hose with REAL PCV hose to prevent the eventual brittle decay.

Current issue: 
Still getting the P0106 and P0107(MAP/baro), and also now getting P0300 (random cylinder misfire), P0442 (Evap leak- small), P0202 (Injector Circuit/Open, Cylinder 2), and P0002 (Fuel volume regulator control circuit Range/Performance)

I made triple sure all connectors and lines were properly secured, checked and cleaned (used just a cloth) fuel injectors (replaced o-rings- injectors themselves were very dirty, but free of defects), checked voltage on fuel injector connectors (all between 11-13 volts), and made sure the fuel injector rod was seated properly in the manifold. I suspect an issue with the fuel injectors and perhaps the fuel rail itself, but my mechanical knowledge is limited to intake/HVAC, and general maintenance.

My Father-In-Law will be helping me run a compression test this weekend, just to check for leaks (it is entirely possible that I need to reseat the hose that connects from the throttle body to the turbo- that thing's a bitch to get on/off- which may account for the baro codes). 

Any suggestions/tips are greatly appreciated!


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## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

My new fuel rail came in (came with injectors), and I installed it, and no more codes!

I think the old rail was bent or something (it looked straight, but I did have more difficulty than I expected when trying to re-seat it into the manifold), which caused the misfire and fuel system codes. Also, I noticed differences between the appearance of the fuel injectors on my old rail and new one, which probably indicates that they were also an issue (the clips that go around the injectors to lock them to the rail were bent, and cylinder 1 and 2 injectors were definitely not in good shape). 

In addition, the MAP sensor, while appearing plugged in, was not _fully _plugged in, which accounts for the baro code.

That being said, sometimes the RPMs will drop inappropriately (on acceleration or while going uphill), causing a slight hesitation, stalling feeling. No codes, however, so I'm not concerned, yet. It's probably due to the vehicle being on blocks for the past few weeks, while I did the above work. Probably just needs to get all the fluids running through it again. Ill check for codes again tomorrow, and update this, if anything changes, and I'll probably take a peek at the plugs, as well. Possibly didn't torque all of them down appropriately.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I was going to suggest a few things, but you have already done them. Keep us up to date. Did you take pictures of any of the installs, especially the fuel rail?


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## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> I was going to suggest a few things, but you have already done them. Keep us up to date. Did you take pictures of any of the installs, especially the fuel rail?


Photos of the installs themselves, no. But I did take photos before and after replacing everything (to note where things went, and also to compare old parts to new). 

Below is the comparison of my old fuel rail and the new one:









Here is what I did to the intake manifold (the V2 PCV bypass):


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## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

Additional photos of work done:


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## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

I did do a nice, long drive today, as well. No codes, and RPMs are normalized. I'm guessing I just needed to drive it around to get the fluids going and flush any gunk out.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Glad to see you put some jb around the outlet on the intake manifold fix kit. Mine has been leaking oil there, the 3rd time I took it off slathered it with RTV and ever since it's been good.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Aurora021 said:


> I did do a nice, long drive today, as well. No codes, and RPMs are normalized. I'm guessing I just needed to drive it around to get the fluids going and flush any gunk out.


Glad it all worked out. Just curious, why did you not use the old manifold instead of buying a new one? I bought one from a junkyard and pre-prepped mine, but really it would not have taken much longer to do it once I took off the original manifold.

Now you need to keep an eye on the water outlet.



Thebigzeus said:


> Glad to see you put some jb around the outlet on the intake manifold fix kit. Mine has been leaking oil there, the 3rd time I took it off slathered it with RTV and ever since it's been good.


I have not had any issues with mine. I must have re-read and watched the video about four times before I put it on to make sure I followed every nuance in the instructions. Hopefully it stays that way.


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## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Glad it all worked out. Just curious, why did you not use the old manifold instead of buying a new one? I bought one from a junkyard and pre-prepped mine, but really it would not have taken much longer to do it once I took off the original manifold.


Old manifold had started separating at the seams; otherwise, I wouldn't have bothered.

Surprisingly, no water outlet issues, yet, but now that I've said that...!


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## Aurora021 (Sep 8, 2020)

Thebigzeus said:


> Glad to see you put some jb around the outlet on the intake manifold fix kit. Mine has been leaking oil there, the 3rd time I took it off slathered it with RTV and ever since it's been good.


That's not JB; it's RTV, lol. Put some there, just in case the drilled opening was slightly too large (it shouldn't be too big; still tight squeeze when screwing everything together, but it eases my mind knowing everything's air-tight).


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Aurora021 said:


> That's not JB; it's RTV, lol. Put some there, just in case the drilled opening was slightly too large (it shouldn't be too big; still tight squeeze when screwing everything together, but it eases my mind knowing everything's air-tight).


Ah color looks just like jb weld


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