# 2017 Cruze LE2 Fuel injector



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

If that doesn't fix it the most likely cause is a broken piston, electrical fault at the coil, or valvetrain concern.

Does your vehicle have GM warranty left, or just dealer warranty. Because I'd be changing service departments if there is GM warranty on this vehicle.


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

There is no warranty at all, this was a ASIS dealer as most are here in this state. Car has 104k. I have read that Cylinder 1 is the main piston that breaks. How could I tell if it is a broken Piston, I have never seen that before I started reading about the cruze here.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

You'd need to do a compression and/or leakdown tests 

#1 is definitely common, but I've had all cylinders fa8o, all 4 on one car in fact once. And one car that completely destroyed itself when the #2 piston failed, and broke the rod and cylinder walls


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

Well Just got a call from the dealer, they replaced the injector and did not fix the problem. They are now talking about getting me out of it and putting me in to something else. This is so frustrating, I fell in love with the car.


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

They also said they did a compression test and that cylinder tested fine.


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

So I got the car back and they asked me to drive it over the weekend. They topped it off with high octane gas and seafoam. Still no difference.

So I stopped at Advance auto parts and bought bars leak 2 in 1 engine restore and compression restore. Drove the car 30 miles and it's smoothed out and no code. Does anyone have any ideas or input? I'll post more info when I have it.


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

This is what I used.



https://www.autozone.com/motor-oil-and-transmission-fluid/engine-additive-and-cleaner/bar-s-leaks-engine-repair-16-9oz/94559_0_0?spps.s=3894&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:71700000069889792&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3smABhCjARIsAKtrg6IXmkI7lhpGIYZeTPqF0xl0MgWwy8OFVtp9V76PSht2oJji5r310jEaApfVEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

You fixed it!


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

Well not so much... ANYONE HELP.

So it did the trick for one day and its right back doing the same symptoms. CEL is not flashing, first the stabiltrak light will come on. Then the CEL will come on. This is what I know for sure.
1. Injector was changed by dealer
2.Plugs were changed
3. Coil Was changed.
4. Bars leak and engine restore added to oil
5. Last oil change done wrong weight put in it, they used 0w20
6. High Octane gas put in 
7. Seafoam added to fuel
8. Water remover ISOheat added to the fuel
9. Car is only getting about 29 MPG avg
10. Start stop mode is not working
11. Dealer did a compression check and they said it was low but within specs.

So I know its getting spark and fuel and has compression, I did not find a vacuum leak. I am kinda lost and am now thinking I will need to replace the engine, does anyone have any ideas? How can I look at Cylinder 2 and determine the condition of the piston? Any thoughts would be great!


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Hunt4freedom said:


> Well not so much... ANYONE HELP.
> 
> So it did the trick for one day and its right back doing the same symptoms. CEL is not flashing, first the stabiltrak light will come on. Then the CEL will come on. This is what I know for sure.
> 1. Injector was changed by dealer
> ...


I was being sarcastic....sorry.

First of all the only things you know, unless you've tested it yourself, is that it has new plugs, a new injector and a new coil. 

You need to find out what they mean by "low but within specs". Because I'll tell you 2 things. A: Spec is minimum of 100psi compression per cylinder. 
B: if you have less than 150psi you dont have a healthy engine.

GM specs for compression are not really useful. Perform a compression check. All 4 cylinders should be over 150psi(ideally over 180psi) and no cylinder should be more than 10% different than any other. 

My guess is them saying "low but within specs" is their cop out. They've gotta know this thing may need a piston if they are a Chevy dealer. If they don't they are just woefully inept diagnosticians. Because they seem to have done nothing but replace parts, and do a half assed compression test


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Hunt4freedom said:


> How can I look at Cylinder 2 and determine the condition of the piston?


They can put a small camera down the spark plug hole to inspect the bore of the cylinder and the top of the piston, but you might not be able to see the entire condition of the piston. That would require it to be disassembled and removed = $$$

If a check with a camera reveals scuffing on the wall of the cylinder, that could be a cause of low compression and if the damage is enough it would be to where you want to walk away from the car.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Hunt4freedom said:


> So I stopped at Advance auto parts and bought bars leak 2 in 1 engine restore and compression restore.


Click & Clack on Car Talk used to have lots of hilarious conversations about the wide assortment of magic chemicals available at "Finer auto parts stores everywhere."


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

@Ma v e n I don't believe in those chemicals, was a hail Mary. I will take a look tomorrow, but as for the things I do know as above, yes I know for sure those things were done.. I will test the compression myself tomorrow.

@Barry Allen Thank you. As I said above I don't believe in those chemicals. The dealer is offering to buy the car back, however I don't really want too. They said they would replace the engine in it. Found one online with 60k from a wreck for only $444 USD. I am going to continue to run it tomorrow as they asked me too. Its weird, sometimes it runs just fine, then it will start acting up and then run fine again.

I can drive 30 miles with no light and then I can start it and let it idle in the driveway and it will throw a code, then I can drive it for 10 miles and throw a code, and other times I can start it and let it idle for 30 mins in the driveway and runs smooth and no code. VERY WEIRD


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

Guys, in my experience the answer is no, but just curious. Would the 0w20 oil be at fault here? I found the latest service record and that is what it shows as being used!


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## Hunt4freedom (Jan 28, 2021)

Its defiantly running rich


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Hunt4freedom said:


> Would the 0w20 oil be at fault here?


Probably not. It's just a thinner oil for better fuel economy. I ran 0W-20 in my Hyundai Accent for about 120,000 miles and it's fine.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

You probably say it's running rich because you smell excess fuel or improperly treated exhaust. It's most likely not burning all the fuel necessary or properly treating the exhaust because it's misfiring.


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## Mudjeeper (Nov 23, 2020)

It's common to have corrosion where the wire harness connector plugs into ecm. My son's cruze was doing the same thing but on cylinder 1..turned out to be an easy fix..just take connector off and pop out the inner plastic on the connector and clean with electrical cleaner..I added a little electrical grease also..hope this helps... green on the pins=corrosion


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Mudjeeper said:


> It's common to have corrosion where the wire harness connector plugs into ecm. My son's cruze was doing the same thing but on cylinder 1..turned out to be an easy fix..just take connector off and pop out the inner plastic on the connector and clean with electrical cleaner..I added a little electrical grease also..hope this helps... green on the pins=corrosion
> View attachment 290557


Not on a Gen2 it's not.


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