# Repost: Negative battery terminal ground wire broken at connecting tip



## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

Note: This is a repost from the Gen 1Powertrain forums as the issue is electrical wires. Apologies for the repost

I have a 2011 Chevy Cruze LT and today while cleaning the negative battery terminal with a battery brush, the ground wire that is bolted to the terminal broke off. It was very flimsy and makes me wonder how it held up all along. Can that wire be replaced without going to a mechanic and I observed it goes under the fuse box. I don’t know the exact term used for that wire, but as it is broken I am not sure I can start the car. I could not find any videos or posts where the ground wire tip broke off. Any info and part number with pointers on how to fix would be appreciated

Adding the image should make the post clearer.

I am not sure if this wire goes all the way to the alternator or is connected to the fuse at the top the battery positive terminal


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Can you just crimp a new eye connector on the wire?


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

TDCruze said:


> Can you just crimp a new eye connector on the wire?


That's what I would do


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

Hi,
1. you may be able to buy a large enough "eye" crimp connector to fit over and crimp onto the existing broken one. Peel back and carefully cut away the shrink wrap to reveal the existing broken connector and shop for a connector that will fit over it. Buy a crimping tool, hacking this connection may lead to ground problems. I don't think the broken connector can be removed from the wire easily and without chewing up the wire itself.
fyi - If you cut the broken connector off the ground wire, there may not be enough length to reach the battery terminal. It looks like the connector and it's strain-relief(keeps wire rigid so it doesn't drape onto battery top edge-i think) is almost 2"
2. if you can't get a good connection with the 1st method, buy an identical eye connector as the broken one. Follow the wire down to the bottom corner of fuse box. The wire(harness) is held in place by a wire tie secured to the bottom edge of the fuse box.(pic) If you release or _carefully cut_ the plastic wire tie(mine is grey), there may be sufficient additional slack in the harness to reach the battery terminal, then you can cut off the broken connector and crimp on a new one.
I have not done this repair, offering advice after looking at my negative battery connection and "eyeballing it".


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

12ecofamilycar said:


> Hi,
> 1. you may be able to buy a large enough "eye" crimp connector to fit over and crimp onto the existing broken one. Peel back and carefully cut away the shrink wrap to reveal the existing broken connector and shop for a connector that will fit over it. Buy a crimping tool, hacking this connection may lead to ground problems. I don't think the broken connector can be removed from the wire easily and without chewing up the wire itself.
> fyi - If you cut the broken connector off the ground wire, there may not be enough length to reach the battery terminal. It looks like the connector and it's strain-relief(keeps wire rigid so it doesn't drape onto battery top edge-i think) is almost 2"
> 2. if you can't get a good connection with the 1st method, buy an identical eye connector as the broken one. Follow the wire down to the bottom corner of fuse box. The wire(harness) is held in place by a wire tie secured to the bottom edge of the fuse box.(pic) If you release or _carefully cut_ the plastic wire tie(mine is grey), there may be sufficient additional slack in the harness to reach the battery terminal, then you can cut off the broken connector and crimp on a new one.
> ...


Thank you for a detailed step by step help and I very much appreciate it. Like you said and as others have also chimed in, I will try out a ring type or eye terminal similar to the broken one. The gauge size is what I am debating between 12-10 AWG and 22-18 AWG and is it okay to replace with a larger size than the broken connector? Would it be fine to buy a similar size gauge wire ( gauge equal to the terminal connector) to crimp in case the length is too short. The length was another factor I was doubting and your pic on where the wire leads to helps a lot.



WillL84 said:


> That's what I would do


Yes I am going to get a ring terminal and try out crimping like @*12ecofamilycar *suggested


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

touches said:


> The gauge size is what I am debating between 12-10 AWG and 22-18 AWG and is it okay to replace with a larger size than the broken connector? Would it be fine to buy a similar size gauge wire ( gauge equal to the terminal connector) to crimp in case the length is too short. The length was another factor I was doubting and your pic on where the wire leads to helps a lot.


One thought I had on this was to look for a wire that already has a terminal on it. You might need to buy something more complex and just cut off that piece. For example, I've seen some battery cables that had a small (eg, 12 gauge) wire with terminal already spliced into the cable. You could cut that section off and splice it onto the end of you broken wire and avoid dealing with crimping.

If you try to put a 22-18 gauge terminal on that wire, it may be too small. That wire is more like 12 gauge from what I can see.

My usual advice on this is to solder all connections, including the crimps. That's a sure way to avoid corrosion later affecting the crimp, or the crimp coming undone.

If you cannot solder, maybe you have a friend who can do it in exchange for a 12-pack of his/her favorite beverage.

Doug

.


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## eddiefromcali (Aug 21, 2017)

any stereo shop can crimp a new terminal on


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I would carefully cut the old connector off while trying not to damage the wire too much (assuming you cannot replace the whole cable). If it is long enough, just cut the wire and restrip. I would not under any circumstance recrimp over the old terminal.


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

Blasirl said:


> I would carefully cut the old connector off while trying not to damage the wire too much (assuming you cannot replace the whole cable). If it is long enough, just cut the wire and restrip. I would not under any circumstance recrimp over the old terminal.


@touches @Blasirl
Yeah I should have tied the 'recrimp over a crimp' suggestion in with "hacking" but it sure doesn't read like that...my bad.
Not a permanent fix or 1st course of action, but as a last resort to get to the parts store and back before cutting the wire.


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> One thought I had on this was to look for a wire that already has a terminal on it. You might need to buy something more complex and just cut off that piece. For example, I've seen some battery cables that had a small (eg, 12 gauge) wire with terminal already spliced into the cable. You could cut that section off and splice it onto the end of you broken wire and avoid dealing with crimping.
> 
> If you try to put a 22-18 gauge terminal on that wire, it may be too small. That wire is more like 12 gauge from what I can see.
> 
> ...


That's a great idea, unfortunately the auto parts stores near my place namely O'reillys and Advance auto parts do not carry a simple 12 Gauge ring terminal and had no clue about battery cables with terminals attached. I have ordered 12 AWG ring terminals from Amazon and being my only vehicle, I am stuck waiting at home for these parts to arrive with the auto shops above ruled out. Like you said the stock wire seemed to have the connector already attached to the wire. I do have a 16 AWG fork connector but no sure if I can use them on this wire and if it can carry the required amps.



Blasirl said:


> I would carefully cut the old connector off while trying not to damage the wire too much (assuming you cannot replace the whole cable). If it is long enough, just cut the wire and restrip. I would not under any circumstance recrimp over the old terminal.


Yes sir, I have cut the connector and have stripped the wire and like you said if it is long enough I would just crimp them.

Attaching some pictures for any reference


















This was the connector type and ring terminal just sort of disintegrated and came apart.



12ecofamilycar said:


> @touches @Blasirl
> Yeah I should have tied the 'recrimp over a crimp' suggestion in with "hacking" but it sure doesn't read like that...my bad.
> Not a permanent fix or 1st course of action, but as a last resort to get to the parts store and back before cutting the wire.


No problem at all, and your picture helped me a lot and any guidelines in this forum is a learning experience


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

The ring terminal was long enough to crimp and I connected wire to the negative terminal. After installing the battery, I get a *P00B4 DTC service definitions not found error code. *I am just tired of having one problem after another with this Cruze and being a student the costs to buy the tools and the replacement parts are taking a hard hit on my finances. Is this a major issue? Is it due to the ring connector crimping or any wrong sizes?


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

Someone on the forum who has real diagnostic experience would be better at helping you with the code but...

p00b4 is "radiator coolant temp sensor circuit high".

The sensor itself is easy to replace and $12 on amazon...there are 2 temp sensors; rtc(radiator temp sensor) and etc(engine temp sensor) 2 different part numbers even though they look identical.
One plugs into the coolant outlet(etc)drivers side of the engine, the other is in the passenger side edge of radiator(rtc). each has an electrical connector. Coolant has to be drained to replace them so you don't end up with a coolant mess.

I doubt it's anything to do with the actual connector you repaired, maybe having the battery disconnected for a while, but again, wait for a diagnostic expert type member to reply.
Don't despair! I thought I was the only 1 car household, it's a pain



touches said:


> The ring terminal was long enough to crimp and I connected wire to the negative terminal. After installing the battery, I get a *P00B4 DTC service definitions not found error code. *I am just tired of having one problem after another with this Cruze and being a student the costs to buy the tools and the replacement parts are taking a hard hit on my finances. Is this a major issue? Is it due to the ring connector crimping or any wrong sizes?


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

12ecofamilycar said:


> Someone on the forum who has real diagnostic experience would be better at helping you with the code but...
> 
> p00b4 is "radiator coolant temp sensor circuit high".
> 
> ...


Thank again for giving pointers on the parts, this has been a nightmare month, I replaced the valve gasket and installed the PCV V3 fix kit, changed the MAF Sensor, replaced the spark plugs,, negative battery cable terminal. Now these problems again!

I went to an auto shop to get a scan and they came up with the following codes:

P00B4

DTC Descriptor DTC P00B3 00 - Radiator Coolant Temperature (RCT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
DTC Descriptor DTC P00B4 00 - Radiator Coolant Temperature (RCT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0532

DTC P0530 03 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0530 07 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage
DTC P0532 00 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0533 00 - AC Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage
I just noticed my windshield wipers do not work and the windshield washer fluid does not blow as well. I am not getting a beep sound when I lock the doors of my car using the key.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

touches said:


> The ring terminal was long enough to crimp and I connected wire to the negative terminal. After installing the battery, I get a *P00B4 DTC service definitions not found error code. *I am just tired of having one problem after another with this Cruze and being a student the costs to buy the tools and the replacement parts are taking a hard hit on my finances. Is this a major issue? Is it due to the ring connector crimping or any wrong sizes?


Causes for this code may include:

Defective radiator or other coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
Dirty/plugged sensor pickup
Sensor O-ring/Gasket leaking
Broken or damaged wiring harness
Fuse ECM issue
Pin/connector problem (corrosion, melting, broken lock tab etc.)

Read more at: P00B4 Radiator Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High

Both temp sensors:




or




or


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Causes for this code may include:
> 
> Defective radiator or other coolant temperature sensor (CTS)
> Dirty/plugged sensor pickup
> ...


Should I replace the sensors even if I don't see the AC Off due to High temp error message? Are the windshield wipers and no beeping sound when locked tied to this or is it another electrical problem I need to check?


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

Perhaps older battery? Maybe was it sufficient and recharged somewhat when car was being driven but lost too much charge when it was disconnected? 

But... AC sensors, and coolant sensors, and weird wipers/wiper fluid pump, and door entry beep issue all within a day or so?

Should probably retrace the ground wire steps or anything electrical work to rule out a random mistake of some kind; think 'obvious 1st'- like-all connectors connected, or is something shorted and blew fuse(s), coolant spillage into a connector, or rats ate my fusebox...(sorry, you can see acorns under my fusebox in the pic), then move on from there.


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

12ecofamilycar said:


> Perhaps older battery? Maybe was it sufficient and recharged somewhat when car was being driven but lost too much charge when it was disconnected?
> 
> But... AC sensors, and coolant sensors, and weird wipers/wiper fluid pump, and door entry beep issue all within a day or so?
> 
> Should probably retrace the ground wire steps or anything electrical work to rule out a random mistake of some kind; think 'obvious 1st'- like-all connectors connected, or is something shorted and blew fuse(s), coolant spillage into a connector, or rats ate my fusebox...(sorry, you can see acorns under my fusebox in the pic), then move on from there.


Exactly that was my first thought, all these problems within a day and the windshield and horn beeping seems weird. My battery was dead and had to be recharged, it was tested today and came out okay. I will retrace the steps to the wires, but how do I check for shorted and blown fuses? Where can I find the wiper fluid pump and wiper motor to check for loose connections?

Should I as well get a new battery? I have ordered the sensors from Amazon after seeing your post, but I am still unsure as my wipers and door sensors being off!


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

You can check for blown fuses on the items that don't work in the fuse box, the fuse locations are listed in the box cover. There is a fuse puller in the box or use fingers. Get some replacements 1st, in case one(fuse) gets lost or falls into an unreachable space...
Check for loose connections only on the things you worked on 1st, then move on from there.
When you removed the battery, could have inadvertently caused a short but prob would have noticed that.
Replace it? If it's pretty new and checks out ok...idk but if it's 4 years old maybe check walmart price, I've had good luck with them.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

touches said:


> Should I replace the sensors even if I don't see the AC Off due to High temp error message? Are the windshield wipers and no beeping sound when locked tied to this or is it another electrical problem I need to check?


Test them. If you don't want to remove them, at least test for continuity.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

This is an enlarged pic


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

Blasirl said:


> Test them. If you don't want to remove them, at least test for continuity.


So prob easiest way to test the coolant sensors while installed would be to buy a spare sensor connector w pigtail attached and connect multimeter to the wires? Have to find that connector, dealer parts dept may be easiest. Maybe amazon.
Morning cold engine here in the northeast at about 40 degrees, warm engine 200-225 approx.
my sensors are new but I'm interested in the test experience


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## 12ecofamilycar (Jul 7, 2019)

Hi, just checking in, any luck with your wipers, washer pump, entry beep?


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

12ecofamilycar said:


> Hi, just checking in, any luck with your wipers, washer pump, entry beep?


Hello, firstly my apologies as I had to get back to work using the local bus and Uber and could not focus on my car. Your post on backtracking was a godsend and lifesaver. Today I did exactly like you mentioned and found a loose bolt in the engine fuse box!!. I tightened it and the fuse location chart given by @Blasirl was of immense help as I could track the wiper fuse location. I unplugged and blew off some dust and plugged them back in and started the car. To my wonderful surprise the wipers started working along with the washer fluid and the beeps returned and importantly the check engine light disappeared. I test drove before I could rush in and post it here and so far I didn't get the lights back on. The two sensors I ordered from Amazon and also heeding your advice I got a set of fuses as well have not been used. I may change the sensors but will defer it as I have had enough of time spent on this car and have to catch up with work. Only the power seat seems to be working erratically and it no longer raises up or down. I don't see it as much of a hindrance but will look into it at a later time. But more importantly thank you so very much for being there and helping me to get back on this vehicle. thanks to you, @Blasirl,@plano-doug and others who commented and without this forum I would have been lost for options to think and work. Thank you all once again


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

touches said:


> Hello, firstly my apologies as I had to get back to work using the local bus and Uber and could not focus on my car. Your post on backtracking was a godsend and lifesaver. Today I did exactly like you mentioned and found a loose bolt in the engine fuse box!!. I tightened it and the fuse location chart given by @Blasirl was of immense help as I could track the wiper fuse location. I unplugged and blew off some dust and plugged them back in and started the car. To my wonderful surprise the wipers started working along with the washer fluid and the beeps returned and importantly the check engine light disappeared. I test drove before I could rush in and post it here and so far I didn't get the lights back on. The two sensors I ordered from Amazon and also heeding your advice I got a set of fuses as well have not been used. I may change the sensors but will defer it as I have had enough of time spent on this car and have to catch up with work. Only the power seat seems to be working erratically and it no longer raises up or down. I don't see it as much of a hindrance but will look into it at a later time. But more importantly thank you so very much for being there and helping me to get back on this vehicle. thanks to you, @Blasirl,@plano-doug and others who commented and without this forum I would have been lost for options to think and work. Thank you all once again


There are at least two recent threads on fixing the seat. I will see if I can find them.

EDIT:

Here is one and it refers to another in it.









2011 LTZ Power Seat Issue


My wife's Cruze recently developed an issue with the drivers side front power seat. The base front lift has quit working. It sounds like the motor is working and it just clicks like a cam gear is broken. The bases rear lift works fine and forward/back is working fine. Before I pull the seat...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> There are at least two recent threads on fixing the seat. I will see if I can find them.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> ...





Blasirl said:


> There are at least two recent threads on fixing the seat. I will see if I can find them.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> ...


Thank you once again @Blasirl . I saw the video about checking for the fuse, is that a circuit breaker fuse type? I am not sure if a standard fuse can be swapped in its place. From the threads I could not understand from the first reading on what to check, but I will go through again and try out the methods that have been posted


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Fuse 13, 25A. I am guessing it is a dual element fuse. I could not find one for sale nor the part number.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> Fuse 13, 25A. I am guessing it is a dual element fuse. I could not find one for sale nor the part number.


From the video, I blew up the pic and got some part numbers.










The 8-character (13898717) doesn't come up at the two GM parts sites I checked, but Google finds it at Amazon and eBay.

The Buss p/n on Google hits the same Amazon and eBay pages 

The description says it's a breaker, but the mechanics of that are not clear - I don't see a lever. Perhaps the end pops out when it's thrown?

Or maybe it's the kind that times out and resets itself.

HTH.

Doug

.


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> From the video, I blew up the pic and got some part numbers.
> 
> View attachment 285733
> 
> ...


I searched in Amazon like '14V 25A fuse' and got a mini circuit breaker type, not sure if it has the same mechanics though


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

touches said:


> I searched in Amazon like '14V 25A fuse' and got a mini circuit breaker type, not sure if it has the same mechanics though


Both of these look just like the one in the video. The only downside is that I haven't seen any onesies - they're all 25-packs 

Doug






Amazon.com: GM BUSS Fuse Circuit Breaker 13898717 Pack Of 25: Automotive


Buy GM BUSS Fuse Circuit Breaker 13898717 Pack Of 25: Body - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com













GM BUSS Fuse Circuit Breaker 13898717 Pack Of 24 | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for GM BUSS Fuse Circuit Breaker 13898717 Pack Of 24 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



www.ebay.com





.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Sounds like I will definitely raid the next Cruze I find at the Pick N Pull.


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## ezap28ltz (Mar 31, 2013)

touches said:


> I searched in Amazon like '14V 25A fuse' and got a mini circuit breaker type, not sure if it has the same mechanics though


Fuse....# 6 Part # 19116527
2011 Chevrolet Cruze 1LT 4DR BLOCK-I/P JUNCTION

Or this 25A Mini ATM Automotive Circuit Breaker Blade Fuse 14VDC Car Boat Van | eBay


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## touches (Jan 26, 2020)

ezap28ltz said:


> Fuse....# 6 Part # 19116527
> 2011 Chevrolet Cruze 1LT 4DR BLOCK-I/P JUNCTION
> 
> Or this 25A Mini ATM Automotive Circuit Breaker Blade Fuse 14VDC Car Boat Van | eBay
> View attachment 285749


Oh this is amazing find, How did you come across these diagrams? Thank you very much, I'll look into these


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I know this is an old post, but I was at a Pick n pull yard yesterday and scored a few of these automatic circuit breakers. When I pulled them I could not remember why i wanted them so this morning I did a search and found this video explaining them.


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