# Wheel nut torque on aftermarket wheels



## Rockhead (Jul 10, 2014)

So I just bought a set of Mach M7 rims and have a question about the wheel nut torque. The manual says around 100 ft-lbs of torque on factory rims. I called the supplier I bought the wheels from and they said 70-80 ft-lbs of torque. This seems low to me, has anyone else come across this? I'm spooked by such a low torque, but then again don't want to warp/crack my wheels. Maybe a dab of loc-tite on the threads?

Any advice would be good. Thanks


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Stick to GM's recommendation. I'm sure if you spoke with someone at the wheel company they would say the same. The fastening torque should be based on the thread diameter/pitch and the nut seat style, neither of which change when changing wheels.

This could be the case of changing the nut seat type, in which case you may use the supplier's torque spec.

It is not advised to put any lubrication or thread locking compound on the wheel studs. Doing so alters the amount of torque required for a given clamp load. The torque given in the manual is intended for use with dry threads.

Applying anti-seize to the hub is acceptable and recommended, it will make wheel removal much easier and reduce the chances of having a wheel stuck to the hub.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

I always torque my lug nuts down to ~75lbs. unless otherwise advised.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

I can't imagine aftermarket rims are weaker than factory aluminum ones, so I would stick with the 100ft-lbs GM recommends.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Smurfenstein said:


> I always torque my lug nuts down to ~75lbs. unless otherwise advised.


I tried torquing to 80 and found it took several rounds to get the nuts to stay put. I would torque to 80, drive for the day, then re-torque. Many times I found a few nuts that had backed off and turned a bit when re-torqued. That was just an experiment to see if 80 was enough, so I went back to 100.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

spacedout said:


> I can't imagine aftermarket rims are weaker than factory aluminum ones, so I would stick with the 100ft-lbs GM recommends.


Being the pessimist I am, and knowing the safety/quality standards in the auto industry are pretty strict, unless you're buying a higher end aftermarket wheel I personally would assume it to be weaker than OEM. I've heard so many stories about the quality, or lack thereof, of Chinese castings... I think there's a reason many aftermarket wheels are heavy, that being they need extra material to guarantee adequate strength.

Having said that, you can't paint everyone with the same brush, and I'm sure some companies make very high quality wheels in China. Some, definitely not all.

I have cheap Chinese made wheels for my car in the summer, ASA GT-06's. They are low pressure cast and shot peened though, not gravity cast, so I have "some" faith in their strength.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

i dont pass anything over 65lbs, had some lugs bust on some of my other cars and ****, its not an easy fix. good luck to all.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

when on standard gm lugs i go 100lbs and follow gm recommendations.


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