# Snapped a wheel stud



## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

there a .50 knrul so any honda stud will work if you wanna get some stronger ones


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jakkaroo said:


> there a .50 knrul so any honda stud will work if you wanna get some stronger ones


One time, I managed to strip the threads of the lug nut while it was still on the stud. It would spin freely, but wouldn't come out and off the stud, and the wheel was still on...


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## socalcruze (Aug 4, 2012)

You may want to have your torque wrench calibration checked. In aviation circles, calibration checks on torque wrenches is technically required (annually, I think).


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

socalcruze said:


> You may want to have your torque wrench calibration checked. In aviation circles, calibration checks on torque wrenches is technically required (annually, I think).


This snapped stud snapped at much less effort than the other ones. All the others took a lot more effort before the wrench clicked. I know, effort is subjective at best.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> This snapped stud snapped at much less effort than the other ones. All the others took a lot more effort before the wrench clicked. I know, effort is subjective at best.


I've discovered that my problem rate on studs has dropped significantly ever since I started using an impact wrench. I know not everyone has access to one though.

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## danimal (Oct 4, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I've discovered that my problem rate on studs has dropped significantly ever since I started using an impact wrench. I know not everyone has access to one though.
> 
> Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using AutoGuide.Com Free App


I'll disagree with you on that one. Always was taught to hand thread the lugs back on as to make sure you don't cross thread them, which is easy to do with an impact wrench. But to each their own


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

danimal said:


> I'll disagree with you on that one. Always was taught to hand thread the lugs back on as to make sure you don't cross thread them, which is easy to do with an impact wrench. But to each their own


Who said I don't hand-thread them in first before lightly running the impact wrench to twist them? I've personally replaced two studs at a Jiffy Lube because I happened to have a hammer and two spare studs in the car. I paid to have a tire rotation done and the guy doing it didn't thread the lugnuts by hand first before tightening them with the impact wrench and cross-threaded them. I nearly called him a blooming idiot in front of everyone, but lucky for him, they were on the rear hub and I could replace them easily. I got that tire rotation done for free.

You can start twisting the lugnuts first so you don't cross thread them, and continue to tighten them with the impact wrench to save time. 

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## danimal (Oct 4, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Who said I don't hand-thread them in first before lightly running the impact wrench to twist them? I've personally replaced two studs at a Jiffy Lube because I happened to have a hammer and two spare studs in the car. I paid to have a tire rotation done and the guy doing it didn't thread the lugnuts by hand first before tightening them with the impact wrench and cross-threaded them. I nearly called him a blooming idiot in front of everyone, but lucky for him, they were on the rear hub and I could replace them easily. I got that tire rotation done for free.
> 
> You can start twisting the lugnuts first so you don't cross thread them, and continue to tighten them with the impact wrench to save time.
> 
> Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using AutoGuide.Com Free App


True, but you didn't say that in your original post. I'm not being picky here just wanted to make sure others don't get the idea to go nascar style and lock 'em down with the impact. But yes, a hand thread and a light impact works great.  Followed up with a proper torque from a torque wrench.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

I've done the same thing, but it was a bolt on a Honda CBR engine block. The problem was the torque wrench had a special way you had to handle it so I was seeing like 50 ft lbs when it snapped the head off. Then my friend was like, "oh yeah btw, that wrench is funky" :angry:


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I've discovered that my problem rate on studs has dropped significantly ever since I started using an impact wrench. I know not everyone has access to one though.
> 
> Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using AutoGuide.Com Free App


This one was hand-threaded 1/3 of the way down and run down with a cordless impact. Definitely not cross-threaded. 

BTW, the dealer I stopped at did not have a separate listing for the wheel stud. So they'd have to order a whole new hub assembly at $150-170 to do it for me. I'll skip that and DIY again.

Anybody for a writeup on how to replace a front wheel stud on a Cruze? I'll likely get to it this weekend, as the others are properly torqued and the car is driving normally.


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## Beachernaut (Mar 27, 2012)

That's strange, I wonder if your stud had a defect in it.
I would think the stud replacement should be pretty strait forward, unless there's something special about our hub/rotor assemblies. OTOH, if you do it yourself, it'd be a great opportunity for a how to for the board.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Take a look at Rockauto.com. I was looking at parts today, and I think I saw wheel studs. I think they were by Raybestos. The question becomes how do you push them out without hurting the wheel hub bearing?

I thought I remember something about a wheel stud press in part of the rental tools at Autozone. I would think a hammer wouldn't be great for the wheel bearing.. 

Bearings are also in the rockauto catalog, but that's a hundred bucks.


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## Beachernaut (Mar 27, 2012)

Maybe I missed it, but you didn't mention if it was front or back. I did some searching and also can't find just the studs. Everywhere I look it's the hub assembly. Either way, you'll need to remove the hub. Not sure how hard that's going to be, the diagrams I can find don't go into much detail on how the hub is attached and held in place. It looks like it's a few bolts that holds the hub on, but I can't be sure.

Edit: carbon02 is right. rockauto.com has the studs for $1 or so a piece (but sold in packs).
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=299513


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Sciphi-

I thought I seen a tool for pressing out the studs, something similar to the following post. How to: Wheel stud removal and ride height adjustment - Corvette Forum

This guy is using a 6" C-Clamp as a press to press them off. I suspect there's a way to get it off without pulling the hub, but I suspect the rotor is going to have to be pulled. 

Keep us posted.


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## Beachernaut (Mar 27, 2012)

Yup, the rotor has to be pulled to give you access to the back of the hub and stud, not sure if you could get the stud out without removing the hub though.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I've always used a hammer. They'll pop right out. 

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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

According to AllData, a ball joint remover.. CH 43631 is used. Not sure exactly what that tool is, I didn't google it. Rotor removal, and the bad lug comes out in a position similar to where the caliper bracket is installed. A new one is installed by pulling through with washers and a new lug nut. Flat side to the washers. I think they are assuming that you obtain an open lug nut like what's used on the LS, vs. the Acorn style nut used with the LT. 

This is from 2012 Cruze All Data

Pays 0.3 hours for 1 lug, and 0.1 hours for each additional lug. Does not include R&I Hub Assembly.

They don't give any part numbers for the stud. I'm thinking it may be avalible if there's a procedure, but then maybe not!

AllData makes it look easy, let us know what it's really like to do!


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

This looks like it can be done on the car. The dust shield goes away from the caliper, so it's possible to rotate the snapped stud into position and pop it out. 

I freed my OEM lug nut from the snapped stud earlier, and it took barely any effort to turn it out with a 19mm socket on the lug nut and Channellocks on the stud. No signs of cross-threading. Either I'm stronger than I think, the torque wrench was off although it clicked on all 19 other nuts, or it was a bum bolt. I'm still betting I did something unintentionally wrong, and knackered it. 

Writeup coming this weekend.


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## Big Grouch (Apr 16, 2012)

What should the torque be? And where did you find the spec? If you get the stud out, Dorman has a crapload of wheel studs, and NAPA should also be able to match one up. I can't imagine our cars have unique studs.
When installing it, get an extra lug nut and some grade 8 flatwashers. Put oil on the washers, stack a couple on the stud, then thread the nut on, taper facing out. Tighten it with a ratchet, not an impact, slow and steady until it's seated. Throw that nut out, it may have been compromised, so sense taking a chance. I ALWAYS put a dab of anti-seize on the threads. Also on the backside of aluminum wheels, any place they contact the steel hub or rotor. A little goes a long way.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

Torque is 100 ft-lbs. Found spec in owners manual, when I rotated my tires on Labor Day.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Just so everyone is aware. I get my nuts twisted on a regular basis!

Hoping me and my Cruze are still here to read the posts barring any engine fires!


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## Big Grouch (Apr 16, 2012)

100 ft. lbs shouldn't snap off a license plate screw. I'm sure someone at the factory messed up. I'm guessing the only way to get warranty would have been if the dealer rotated your tires. Still, it couldn't hurt to ask.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

I asked if they could just replace a stud, and they couldn't find the part in the system. I looked at some GM parts websites, and couldn't locate the part number for a plain stud either. 

I'm fine with DIY'ing it since I likely caused the problem. It's not the dealer who caused the problem, it's my doing. Besides, any time spent working on the car is quality time!


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Is snapping lug studs more of a concern than normal with the cruze? He's another post on this forum where it happened.. http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/12-wheels-tires-suspension/3167-watch-your-wheel-nut-torque.html

And I thought I'd rotate tires myself. In a way I'd like them to break on the dealer. The post linked above seems to mention that it may have happened on the first rotation if I recall correctly. 

Sciphi- 

I assume this isn't the first time for rotation?


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

carbon02 said:


> Is snapping lug studs more of a concern than normal with the cruze? He's another post on this forum where it happened.. http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/12-wheels-tires-suspension/3167-watch-your-wheel-nut-torque.html
> 
> And I thought I'd rotate tires myself. In a way I'd like them to break on the dealer. The post linked above seems to mention that it may have happened on the first rotation if I recall correctly.
> 
> ...


No, this is time #5 that I've yanked the wheels for putting on winter wheels or rotating tires. Every time I've loosened/tightened with my cordless impact. The thing can't tighten nuts to more than 50-60 ft/lbs. 

I had a second stud break on me, ironically replacing the lugnut I took off outside the parts store to get an open nut to run the new studs down with. This time it was a rear stud on the opposite side. 

I'm thinking it's time I swapped out all the studs now that I have all the necessary tools. I don't want a wheel flying off while going around a corner, or a stud breaking on me sometime this winter.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Updating this. 

Rant on: It's impossible to replace the front wheel studs on this car without taking off the wheel bearing!!!!! And the bloody wheel bearing is just to the left of very difficult!!!!! Who puts a bolt right above the flipping axle and underneath the strut where it's difficult to get a wrench when the suspension is unloaded!!! I'm lucky the wheel bearing popped right out when the bolts were loosened, otherwise I'd have been hosed. And, a new bearing is $150, at least right now. 

Rant off. 

After taking off the front wheel bearing, I replaced all 5 studs in there just in case some other studs were bad too. Getting the bearing out is not a job I want to do again, at least not until well past 100k miles. Everything that came out got coated with either brake grease or anti-seize to make the next time easier. 

The rear wheel studs were cake. A ball joint separator made easy work of the snapped stud, and a 4 lb sledge knocked the other ones out quickly. 

I torqued the studs to 95 ft/lbs instead of the recommended 100. The new ones felt much less "stretchy" when tightening them down than the old ones did, even the ones that were looking okay. 

Glad that's over.


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## Big Grouch (Apr 16, 2012)

Glad to hear you used anti-seize. I bet you a dime no one else on this forum has dealt with more wheel studs than I have, I learned very early to use it, and always use a torque wrench. Still, I wonder why you had such a problem? Recycled tin cans used at the wheel stud factory in China perhaps?


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

I'm not sure. Either it was a bad batch of studs, or my technique with the torque wrench was wrong. Still, those studs "should" be able to withstand a lot more than the 100 ft/lbs listed as the lug nut torque specification. It could be the specification is wrong, too. 

I'm going to torque my wheels to either 90 or 95 ft/lbs from now on. That's still enough to hold on a wheel, and hopefully will save somebody else the hassle and potential expense of yanking the wheel bearing.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks for the update. 

Help me understand the clearance issues with replacement of the front stud with hub on car. 

Is it clearance problems in getting the tool in place, or clearance with the length of the stud hitting something when you push it back?

Which design of ball joint press did you get to work? Especially for the rear, where disassembly isn't required. This may be worth adding to the How to.

AllData's been wrong before, but according to them the studs can be replaced on the car using CH 43631. I think this is the European equivalent of what's typically the Kent Moore J tools.

SPX Catalog - Remover Remover J-43631

Who knows AllData's procedure could be wrong.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

carbon02 said:


> Thanks for the update.
> 
> Help me understand the clearance issues with replacement of the front stud with hub on car.
> 
> ...


That tool will indeed replace a broken wheel stud, once an open lug nut has been fitted to keep the tool from walking. I used that one on the broken one on the rear. 

The problem is that there is not enough clearance between the back of the hub and the knuckle to fit a new stud in without both loosening the bearing and grinding down a portion of the brake dust shield that is protruding past the knuckle, right into the space that the stud needs to occupy. If you're handy with a die grinder, this can be ground down and might provide enough clearance. I didn't have air or electric where I worked, so this wasn't an option for me.


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## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

I looked on the net and here and didnt find it : What are the studs on the North american Cruze ?

What type / thread ?

What lenght ?



Thx !


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

M12x1.5 thread pitch, and about 2" long. Look here for a part # to reference: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-h...bearing-lug-stud-no-pictures-camera-died.html


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## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

sciphi said:


> M12x1.5 thread pitch, and about 2" long. Look here for a part # to reference: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-h...bearing-lug-stud-no-pictures-camera-died.html



Thx alot !


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## Invierno (Nov 23, 2012)

ARP Wheel Studs FTW


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