# Hard bang into reverse and smell within car



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

@Robby @Blue Angel


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I think I'd change the trans fluid right quick. It might be low. This car has no transmission dipstick, so you might as well change it. Since you just bought the car, you have no idea if the prior owner changed it when they should have. I'd also inspect the lines where they enter the transmission cooler as that seems to be a known leak point.


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## Slinder1991 (Apr 2, 2018)

ChevyGuy said:


> I think I'd change the trans fluid right quick. It might be low. This car has no transmission dipstick, so you might as well change it. Since you just bought the car, you have no idea if the prior owner changed it when they should have. I'd also inspect the lines where they enter the transmission cooler as that seems to be a known leak point.


What history I do have of this Cruze is that the transmission was replaced at some point. Depending on how one would look at it, I'm a bit more glad to have found out the Chevy dealership did the swap. 

The car is being shipped pretty soon from Alaska to MA this week anyway so I'll try to look at the level and cooler


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

On a manual, it wouldn't be trans fluid. It sounds like the clutch hydraulics are to blame. Might try re-bleeding the system.

Heater cores are relatively uncommon, but leaks throughout the engine compartment are VERY common (oil and coolant). Check the integrity of the PCV system (there's a thread here on it "Cruze PCV system explained) and the water outlet that the coolant expansion tank connects to.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Sounds like rust on the flywheel/pressure plate or even the input shaft splines. 
If you park the car in reverse, and hit the clutch and brake when you engage the starter, the clutch should free up upon starting.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Slinder1991 said:


> 2. My other issue I have is a coolant/ oil? Smell through my vents when I have the heat going. Not exactly sure what the cause is, I checked the water pump for leaks and lines, found nothing. I read about the overflows vent line needing to be modified, so I used some clear tubing and changed it up but the problem persists. Thinking heater core is causing the smell?


*2013 Cruze oil smell from heater*

This was deleted from the above post


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## Slinder1991 (Apr 2, 2018)

jblackburn said:


> On a manual, it wouldn't be trans fluid. It sounds like the clutch hydraulics are to blame. Might try re-bleeding the system.
> 
> Heater cores are relatively uncommon, but leaks throughout the engine compartment are VERY common (oil and coolant). Check the integrity of the PCV system (there's a thread here on it "Cruze PCV system explained) and the water outlet that the coolant expansion tank connects to.


I had a feeling it might have something to do with the hydraulics. When it would be hard to put into gear or give that bang into reverse, it was giving a feeling of the clutch not being fully depressed. 

Just out of curiosity with possible air in the hydraulics though, how or why would the problems only be intermittent and not constant as I'm driving and I only seem to have this issue on a cold start up 


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## Slinder1991 (Apr 2, 2018)

Taxman said:


> Sounds like rust on the flywheel/pressure plate or even the input shaft splines.
> If you park the car in reverse, and hit the clutch and brake when you engage the starter, the clutch should free up upon starting.


I never park in gear, always have it in neutral. The problem is very off and on. Some cold starts it will happen and some it won't 


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Slinder1991 said:


> I never park in gear, always have it in neutral. The problem is very off and on. Some cold starts it will happen and some it won't


Sounds like the clutch is sticking. 
If you start it in gear, starting it will break it loose and you won't abuse your synchros trying to use them to break it loose when you first put it in gear.


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## Slinder1991 (Apr 2, 2018)

Taxman said:


> Sounds like the clutch is sticking.
> If you start it in gear, starting it will break it loose and you won't abuse your synchros trying to use them to break it loose when you first put it in gear.


My apologies, I seen your original reply wrong when I read it. 

I’ll give it a try starting in gear, clutch and brake pressed in. I'm completely just used to always have it in neutral to start any manual car. 


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