# Water pump still leaking after replacing



## nickgarthwaite2012lt (Aug 17, 2021)

I had a really bad leak from my water pump so i replaced it and it stopped for a few days. now its leaking again i think thru the bearing and impeller because its dripping down from under the pulley mount. any solutions?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

R&R the water pump is very technique and part sensative. Here on some hints from how I replaced mine, leak free i might add.

1. Use the replacement OEM water pump.
2. Clean the gasket surface thoroughly.
3. Use the OEM gasket (red in color) that comes with the new OEM pump.
4. Do NOT use any RTV.
5. Replace the TTY bolts with new ones.
6. Torque the bolts using a criss-cross sequence in at least 3 stages until you get 71 in-lbs.
7. Tighten the TTY bolts an additional 30-45 degrees.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

Well, Nick if it is leaking through the bearing seal, replacement is the only option. JLL is correct on all his tips, people (including techs) mess up water pump installs a lot.
But I have to disagree with using an OEM pump. I've owned many cars and I have only ever had one water pump ever go out, until last summer when my Cruze pump bearing seal went out. In fact, IIRC GM is giving an extended water pump warranty for the 2014 and older Cruzes. All that said, I since don't trust there water pumps.  I would put in an after market pump. When I had my pump go bad, no one gave me a good aftermarket recommendation. So I just put in a MasterPro from O'Reilly, no issues so far.


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Johnny B said:


> Well, Nick if it is leaking through the bearing seal, replacement is the only option. JLL is correct on all his tips, people (including techs) mess up water pump installs a lot.
> But I have to disagree with using an OEM pump. I've owned many cars and I have only ever had one water pump ever go out, until last summer when my Cruze pump bearing seal went out. In fact, IIRC GM is giving an extended water pump warranty for the 2014 and older Cruzes. All that said, I since don't trust there water pumps.  I would put in an after market pump. When I had my pump go bad, no one gave me a good aftermarket recommendation. So I just put in a MasterPro from O'Reilly, no issues so far.


Johnny B,
Thanks for the info and advice on which aftermarket pump works! Did you replace the TTY bolts with new ones like JLL recommended or just re-use the existing ones? Just found out my '14 Cruze turbo doesn't qualify for the recall, even though the pump housing is leaking. I really wonder if whatever "different" pump they used has the same or a different issue from the "recall" pump. Ugh.


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Also, I usually replace the thermostat when I do a water pump and it looks like I'm taking off the housing to do this repair anyways. Do you have any recommendations for/against replacing the thermostat (8 years old, 120k miles) and any particular brand/model that works well on this car or will any do?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Johnny B said:


> Well, Nick if it is leaking through the bearing seal, replacement is the only option. JLL is correct on all his tips, people (including techs) mess up water pump installs a lot.
> But I have to disagree with using an OEM pump. I've owned many cars and I have only ever had one water pump ever go out, until last summer when my Cruze pump bearing seal went out. In fact, IIRC GM is giving an extended water pump warranty for the 2014 and older Cruzes. All that said, I since don't trust there water pumps.  I would put in an after market pump. When I had my pump go bad, no one gave me a good aftermarket recommendation. So I just put in a MasterPro from O'Reilly, no issues so far.


I think @Thebigzeus might have some input on this subject. He put in 2 aftermarket water pumps that leaked before he broke down and bought the OEM unit. That took care of his leak.

That being said, I do honestly believe that most OEM parts (GM/Ford/Fiat-Chysler) are superior to most aftermarket replacement parts sold in most auto parts stores. That was just based on my experiences in the shop I worked at. Your experiences may differ.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

For many parts I like OEM. Maybe the new pumps have the seal issue fixed. That said, many of the OEM pumps seem to fail in under about 80K. And what I don't understand is in the older cars the seals would generally be fine until the bearings went bad and took the seal out. My water pump, the bearing and impeller were prefect. The seal just let loose one day, I personally find it unacceptable for any manufacturer to mess up a flipping water pump seal. And from what I have seen, the seal is what normally fails. I'd like to know, because I don't have much doubt that I'll need another water pump at some point.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Johnny B said:


> For many parts I like OEM. Maybe the new pumps have the seal issue fixed. That said, many of the OEM pumps seem to fail in under about 80K. And what I don't understand is in the older cars the seals would generally be fine until the bearings went bad and took the seal out. My water pump, the bearing and impeller were prefect. The seal just let loose one day, I personally find it unacceptable for any manufacturer to mess up a flipping water pump seal. And from what I have seen, the seal is what normally fails. I'd like to know, because I don't have much doubt that I'll need another water pump at some point.


I believe that the reason a lot of the plastic components and seals fail on the 1.4L LUJ/LUV is because of the high engine operating temperature that's programmed into the ECM. Not because it's a bad quality seal. It is very possible that ACDELCO had a bad seal design and/or quality issues with the seal itself. But excessive heat kills anything and everything.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

spromoscruz said:


> Did you replace the TTY bolts with new ones like JLL recommended or just re-use the existing ones?


I have to be careful here 
I knew about the TTY bolts, I could not locate any even after calling around including a local dealership.
I reused all my bolts. After about 6 months not a drop of leakage.
IMO the key to success is have the block seal surface freaking hospital brain surgery CLEAN.
And torque all the bolts, to many people don't use a torque wrench and they mess it up bad. They break and strip out bolts all the time. Like JLL said, 71 in-lbs is the spec and that is so little I doubted it but it worked perfect.

For the thermostat, I do recommend replacing it. Assuming of course it is original. And for the thermostat, get an OEM. In this case, I do believe the OEM thermostats are the best.

The belt, I replaced my belt just because. The belt is like $18, yup, just do it.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

JLL said:


> plastic components and seals fail on the 1.4L LUJ/LUV is because of the high engine operating temperature


That is logical to me, I would really like GM to lower my coolant temp by about 20-30F. I have read were a couple guys have done it by tricking the ECM, I think it should be a software update GM could do for us.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Johnny B said:


> That is logical to me, I would really like GM to lower my coolant temp by about 20-30F. I have read were a couple guys have done it by tricking the ECM, I think it should be a software update GM could do for us.


GM won't do that because that would likely decrease fuel economy.

A tuner will lower the thermostat temperature though. My car runs right around 200-205F all the time once thing are at temperature.


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Thanks so much to both of you! I like the somewhat countering perspectives... That makes sense on the pump seal and how I supposedly don't have the "failing" pump, yet mine still failed at under 120k miles. Engine runs hot - not cool (pun!). Gasket seal isn't suitable for the engine temp or some other seal design failure - also bad on GM. I used to work with one of the largest worldwide combustion engine gasket companies - if GM properly coordinated on the increased heat load that was going to be associated with this engine design, they could have used a gasket with proper materials and sealing techniques to make it last well over 150k. Oh well. The youtube guy I watched do it with the original bolts and he was careful to put the same bolt into the exact same holes they originally came from... that's a good idea I've seen work in situations like this to not mess up torque. And yeah, tons of people don't use torque wrenches and then complain when they get broken bolts, stripping, or warpage -> causing leaks!

I like the "brain surgery freaking clean" Johnny B! Very good picture to remember when doing this - especially on an engine left in the car for doing the work.

Thanks again!!!


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

JLL said:


> A tuner will lower the thermostat temperature though. My car runs right around 200-205F


Exactly, about 200-210F would make me a happy camper.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

spromoscruz said:


> if GM properly coordinated on the increased heat load that was going to be associated with this engine design, they could have used a gasket with proper materials and sealing techniques to make it last well over 150k


BINGO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Could be Overcooling, #1. Faulty thermostat #2. Inaccurate temperature gauge


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

JLL said:


> I think @Thebigzeus might have some input on this subject. He put in 2 aftermarket water pumps that leaked before he broke down and bought the OEM unit. That took care of his leak.
> 
> That being said, I do honestly believe that most OEM parts (GM/Ford/Fiat-Chysler) are superior to most aftermarket replacement parts sold in most auto parts stores. That was just based on my experiences in the shop I worked at. Your experiences may differ.


I used a combination of oem and aftermarket for my water outlet and thermostat. OEM thermostat and Dorman water outlet.


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Thanks for the additional input. I can't find the OEM thermostat anywhere... Do I have to get from the Dealership or where are you guys getting it from?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

spromoscruz said:


> Thanks for the additional input. I can't find the OEM thermostat anywhere... Do I have to get from the Dealership or where are you guys getting it from?


The ACDELCO store on Amazon. Just make sure it's actually the OEM thermostat. Mine was around $45.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

spromoscruz said:


> Also, I usually replace the thermostat when I do a water pump and it looks like I'm taking off the housing to do this repair anyways. Do you have any recommendations for/against replacing the thermostat (8 years old, 120k miles) and any particular brand/model that works well on this car or will any do?


As the plastic is usually what deteriorates in my experience, I would go with a lifetime warranty unit myself. You may have to replace it again, but at least you will not need to buy another one.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

spromoscruz said:


> I can't find the OEM thermostat anywhere...











Amazon.com: ACDelco GM Original Equipment 131-180 217 Degrees Engine Coolant Thermostat with Water Inlet : Automotive


Buy ACDelco GM Original Equipment 131-180 217 Degrees Engine Coolant Thermostat with Water Inlet: Thermostats - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Thanks so much! LOL - I was looking for just the thermostat by itself, not the housing... I get it now


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## Desacrasa (Feb 23, 2020)

Dealer replaced mine under special coverage warranty


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Johnny B said:


> Well, Nick if it is leaking through the bearing seal, replacement is the only option. JLL is correct on all his tips, people (including techs) mess up water pump installs a lot.
> But I have to disagree with using an OEM pump. I've owned many cars and I have only ever had one water pump ever go out, until last summer when my Cruze pump bearing seal went out. In fact, IIRC GM is giving an extended water pump warranty for the 2014 and older Cruzes. All that said, I since don't trust there water pumps.  I would put in an after market pump. When I had my pump go bad, no one gave me a good aftermarket recommendation. So I just put in a MasterPro from O'Reilly, no issues so far.


Johnny B - I got the MasterPro water pump you mentioned and the gasket is a gray fiber-based one instead of the orange silicone-coated one the GM OEM gasket appears to be? I've heard of many opinions on using just the straight gasket vs gasket dressing (Indian Head, High Tack, etc.) vs RTV (Blue/Black/Grey)... did you get the same type of gasket and did you put anything on it when you installed?


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## spromoscruz (11 mo ago)

Desacrasa said:


> Dealer replaced mine under special coverage warranty


That's awesome - Do you mean your vehicle VIN was eligible under their special coverage bulletin or that you were able to get them to additionally cover it with a VIN that wasn't listed?


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

spromoscruz said:


> did you get the same type of gasket and did you put anything on it when you installed?


Yes, same gasket. I didn't and wouldn't use anything on the gasket. Make double sure both the block and pump seal areas are clean and clear of anything, as a final clean I recommend using alcohol. And using a torque wrench tighten it down using the proper pattern.

You should have also gotten a thermostat gasket. This should be moist when installed, I used fresh motor oil. At the same time check the thermostat over for damage, especially those plastic taps on the inside.


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