# Best place to tap wires for Line Out Converter?



## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Easiest assuming you have the non amplified would be behind the radio.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Ehh I think I will stick to taking the doors off


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

loganste123 said:


> ehh i think i will stick to taking the doors off


why?


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

It seems the easiest, and Ive replaced cruzes headunits before, and its tight back there. Between splicing, soldering and making a new connection I think it would be too tight.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Well Its not. How easy do you think it will to remove the door panels run wire through the door, through the boot, through the kick panel twice? Or you can remove your radio.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

1. Using a panel removal tool, gently 
pry the upper trim/vent housing 
panel from the dash. Remove the 
factory clip from back of trim/vent 
housing panel 

2. Using a panel removal tool, gently 
pry the shifter surround panel. 
On manual transmission vehicles, 
unclip and reposition the shifter 
boot. Disconnect indicator plug. 


3. Remove (2) 9/32” screws from the 
storage pocket. Remove storage 
pocket.

4. Remove (4) 9/32” screws from the 
accessory control panel. Gently pry 
the edges of the panel to release 
the clips. Disconnect the accessory 
control panel plugs.

5. Remove (2) 9/32” screws from the 
radio control panel. Disconnect the 
radio control panel.

6. Remove (4) 9/32” screws from the 
radio chassis. Disconnect the radio 
chassis.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Why not the kick panel by yer left foot , below the fuse panel . Easiest by far !


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## Nano-Skiff (Aug 25, 2014)

brian v said:


> Why not the kick panel by yer left foot , below the fuse panel . Easiest by far !


I feel like there was a Cruze amp install video on youtube showing it done there.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

brian v said:


> Why not the kick panel by yer left foot , below the fuse panel . Easiest by far !


Because that would only be left so you wouldnt get full stereo signal


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

I am sure All of the wires neede for his purpose of connecting a LOC are in the wiring harness that can be found underneath the kick panel ! 

Wait what is the OP 's intention with the LOC ?


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

it wasnt stated which line output converter will be used. If you can get the passenger and driver side leads from one kick panel than that would be ideal if its easy to get to. I pulled my radio out soldered my 4 leads mounted my line out converter (loc) different brand and reinstalled my radio in less than 10 minutes. Going to the doors is gonna be at least an hour.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Nano-Skiff said:


> I feel like there was a Cruze amp install video on youtube showing it done there.


I believe I saw that too. is there alot of room to work with in there?


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

hificruzer226 said:


> it wasnt stated which line output converter will be used. If you can get the passenger and driver side leads from one kick panel than that would be ideal if its easy to get to. I pulled my radio out soldered my 4 leads mounted my line out converter (loc) different brand and reinstalled my radio in less than 10 minutes. Going to the doors is gonna be at least an hour.


I took my door off today in a flat 2 minutes flat. But I see what youre saying, what kind of connections/crimps are you using?


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Mono block amp!


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## cruzible (Feb 10, 2014)

*Help Needed*



loganste123 said:


> Mono block amp!


HI All,

I am having some issues with an Install, my problems are :

1. Has happened using 2 Different Active Sub Enclosures
2. Has also done the Same using the Factory Head Unit, and also bought DVD/GPS System
3. Since Head Units do not provide RCA Connectors
4. Have Wired Both Subs via High Level Imput Connections
5. Have removed Trim Panels Between Front/Rear Doors(Pillar Area)
6. Found Wiring Colour Codes of : (youtube)
Passenger side rear
White + 
Blue/Black -
Driver side rear
Dark Green +
Dark Grean/Black -
7. All put back together, and absolutely LOW Level Output from Sub Enclosure
8. Unless I am completely MAD, I have just put the Same Sub Enclosure into my Mercedes Sprinter Van, also hooked up via the Same High Level Imput, via Speaker Wires, and it Thumps Hard.

I have since removed ALL of the Wiring, including Power Cables, and everything that was there as basically have had enough of this, and can not work out what is happening, also took the Car to a reputable installer, he too was stumped as to why it was happening.

I am asking all the Members on the Forum for assistance or guidance on what I might be doing wrong, as its doing my head in to say the least.

Regards

[email protected], Australia


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

loganste123 said:


> I took my door off today in a flat 2 minutes flat. But I see what youre saying, what kind of connections/crimps are you using?


Yea taking the door off takes seconds running the wires thru properly is a pain in the ****


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

cruzible said:


> HI All,
> 
> I am having some issues with an Install, my problems are :
> 
> ...


I little hard to follow you but what do you mean on #7.? Low level is signal with no real current like what rca carries, high level is signal with current what connects to your speaker leads. So uninstalling everything was silly because now you cant test and diag what went wrong. so you will be likely to make the same mistake when reinstalling.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

So you are saying in the kick is where I should tap the wires at? I hate using LOC's and always try and convince the customer to upgrade their headunit. my plan of attack was just crimping the wires together then running them back to the trunk. Sound ideal? Im just trying to avoid taking the radio out


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## cruzible (Feb 10, 2014)

Hi hificruzer226

Yeah should have been more expressive in what it or was doing.

The sound was coming out of the Enclosure, but at an extremely Low Volume Level, Hardly Audible even adjusting the Gain Level did not make any difference at all, I am wondering if the Wiring on my car is different from the o/seas Cruze as such, but when I changed the Head Unit, (has the Chevy Start Up Logo on Ignition), and different Options from my Original Factory one.

But all Plugged up without any hassles, so one would assume they are wired the same.

The other thing I find bizare, is with the Factory Holden Head Unit, I can crank the Volume to full, Bass level at Full, and yet it will not distort or make the Speakers Clip.

Regards

Darren


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

loganste123 said:


> So you are saying in the kick is where I should tap the wires at? I hate using LOC's and always try and convince the customer to upgrade their headunit. my plan of attack was just crimping the wires together then running them back to the trunk. Sound ideal? Im just trying to avoid taking the radio out


Why are you so worried about taking the radio out>?


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

cruzible said:


> Hi hificruzer226
> 
> Yeah should have been more expressive in what it or was doing.
> 
> ...


What line level converter are you using?


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

hificruzer226 said:


> Why are you so worried about taking the radio out>?


Idk I just feel like it would be too tight to do it back there


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Its not I have been there. There is less room behind the kick panel than the radio. Just try it behind the radio you will not regret


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## cruzible (Feb 10, 2014)

Hi hificruzer226

I am not too sure as to what your referring to, but this is the Sub Enclosure that I am trying to use.

All I did was tap into the Factory Speaker Wires, then run them to the High Level Imput Connector in the Fusion Enclosure.

*Fusion 12 Active Wedge Enclosure Cp-Aw1122 Subwoofer Amplifier*

Fusion 12 Active Wedge Enclosure Cp-Aw1122 Subwoofer Amplifier

I hope this can answer some things for you.

Regards

Darren


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I used the wiring behind the driver kick panel. Kinda PIA when it came to finding which wire you were dealing with, but they were all there.


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## Jaycruze (Jul 11, 2011)

I tapped mine here, I first had it up beside the hood-release up front but went back here to avoid and interference from the power line.

Mine is just for a sub so I only needed one side, You don't need to pop open the door either, just the panel at the bottom of the pillar.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Jaycruze said:


> I tapped mine here, I first had it up beside the hood-release up front but went back here to avoid and interference from the power line.
> 
> Mine is just for a sub so I only needed one side, You don't need to pop open the door either, just the panel at the bottom of the pillar.
> 
> ...


This is exactly where I tapped mine, simple and in an easy location. One thing I sure as **** hate is all that sticky glue on the factorys tape.


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