# Regarding rim spacers



## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Anyone buy any spacers for our style bolt pattern? Or know if any companies even sell them for our cars? Thanks!


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

you can get them from summit racing,ive heard.but it is just a piece of aluminum too


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## Skilz10179 (Mar 22, 2011)

I highly doubt there are any spacers out there in our bolt pattern. There are universal spacers out there that will probably work but finding some that are hubcentric to our hub bore so they won't be sloppy / out of balance might be challenge. Also, I wouldn't go any bigger that 3mm without extended studs.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Yeah 3mm was what I was thinking. Thanks skills ! 



Skilz10179 said:


> I highly doubt there are any spacers out there in our bolt pattern. There are universal spacers out there that will probably work but finding some that are hubcentric to our hub bore so they won't be sloppy / out of balance might be challenge. Also, I wouldn't go any bigger that 3mm without extended studs.


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## lostmymind (Dec 15, 2011)

If you are capable of writing the program, most machine shops should be able to do it relatively cheap if you buy a good quantity (10+)


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## FatKidsCruze (Sep 2, 2011)

Skilz10179 said:


> There are universal spacers out there that will probably work but finding some that are hubcentric to our hub bore so they won't be sloppy / out of balance might be challenge.


Speaking of hub bore does anybody know the size? Haven't searched or had my wheels off yet to measure.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Yeah I got you guys, thanks for all the help! Let you know how it goes in search of these spacers lol


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

I just need the exact measurements and all dimensions I need to order these or at least speak to someone about these .


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## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

You will not notice a difference with 3mm spacers. Not worth the money.

You can go up to 5mm on stock studs. Anything greater and its recommended to swap for longer studs.

If your adding spacers to widen the stance on the stock wheels and make them flush with the fenders, take measurements. I'm guessing in order to make them flush its gonna take more than 3-5mm spacers to make any noticeable difference. Your gonna have to go bigger.

Custom wheel adapters...
Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Centric Rings | Motorsport Technology


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## maven (Feb 27, 2011)

Cruze uses a 5x105 bolt pattern as most know, and the hub bore is 56.5mm IIRC

Theres a guy on ebay that builds whatever you want at good prices. Just search wheel spacers usa made. Youll see all his stuff come up.


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## FatKidsCruze (Sep 2, 2011)

maven said:


> Cruze uses a 5x105 bolt pattern as most know, and the *hub bore is 56.5mm* IIRC


Thanks, thats the number I was looking for!


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Still cant find any spacers  

I just need 2 for my rear tires only! Not gunna space out the front!


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## Skilz10179 (Mar 22, 2011)

CHEVYCRUZE RS said:


> Still cant find any spacers
> 
> I just need 2 for my rear tires only! Not gunna space out the front!


Try checking the first page of this thread...


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Ive looked on SummitRacing and couldnt find anything that fit the cruze bolt pattern.



Skilz10179 said:


> Try checking the first page of this thread...


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## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

They need to be custom made dude. Period.


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## Skilz10179 (Mar 22, 2011)

I saw some spacers listed for the Cruze on ebay a couple days ago...


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Thanks skills, I hope they fit though.


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## ronbang (Mar 1, 2012)

just buy wheels that fit that you dont need spacers for go to tirerack


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

I wanted spacers for my stock RS wheels, not ready to buy rims yet......plus spacers will give my rims a better look...... But for now I'm good haha, getting the coilovers on next week!


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## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

I emailed a few places a few weeks ago. Price range is $300-$360 for a custom made set of 4 wheel adapters. One place said the minimum thickness they would go is 1". My specs were .75". Thats what I measured so that my 17x7 Eco wheels would be flush on all 4 fenders.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

evo77 said:


> I emailed a few places a few weeks ago. Price range is $300-$360 for a custom made set of 4 wheel adapters. One place said the minimum thickness they would go is 1". My specs were .75". Thats what I measured so that my 17x7 Eco wheels would be flush on all 4 fenders.


They'll need enough material the nuts to catch onto, as well as enough material to flush mount the studs, and enough total thickness to completely cover the stock studs. 

Why would you want to push your Eco wheels .75" outward? I'm aware of the advantage to having a wider track, but you'll be catching a lot more air turbulence on those wheels and will take a significant hit in fuel economy.


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## CRUISE-CRUZE (Nov 8, 2010)

08 10 Chevy Cruze Aluminium Wheel Hub Spacer 5mm 4p | eBay


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## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

CRUISE-CRUZE said:


> 08 10 Chevy Cruze Aluminium Wheel Hub Spacer 5mm 4p | eBay


Those are only 5mm. There won't be any visual difference to the naked eye.


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## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Why would you want to push your Eco wheels .75" outward? I'm aware of the advantage to having a wider track, but you'll be catching a lot more air turbulence on those wheels and will take a significant hit in fuel economy.


Pure asthetics. Thats the only reason.

A significant hit in fuel economy?? Thats debatable. Be rest assured I will post before/after results of my fuel consumption.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

evo77 said:


> Pure asthetics. Thats the only reason.
> 
> A significant hit in fuel economy?? Thats debatable. Be rest assured I will post before/after results of my fuel consumption.


Not at all debatable. Its a fact, and if you think its debatable, I'd advise having a good debate with google. It happens a lot on lifted trucks even with stock tires. You expose more tire, which creates additional aerodynamic drag. By causing your wheels to stick out an inch further out, you're exposing more actual tire which would otherwise have been covered up by the fenders and the body lines of the car. That air no longer slips past the car, but slams against your tire as if it were a pile of bricks. You'll be counter-balancing much of the fuel economy savings you're getting by driving an Eco. 

Feel free to create a thread about this on cleanmpg.com or ecomodder.com forums land you'll get the same answer as I gave you. 

Why do you think the tires are as recessed into the body as they are currently? I can guarantee you that this wasn't an afterthought. 

The other thing to consider is the fact that you'll now be hurling significantly more road debris onto your driver door and rear fender. Your paint will eventually get chipped, and if you ever go through a puddle, you'll have to get out and wipe down your window.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

I think aerodynamics on street cars is quite stupid to debate over theres not goin to be a big number because the tire sticks out a little bit 5mm is nothing like an inch bro and if it was an inch I still dont see any diffrence if thats the case you better take your mirrors of bc there sticking out like 7 inches
I mean look at the 90s model cars thats what aerodynamics did for us and thenn look at 2000 and above we went back to square dont you think if it would have made a big dif our cruzes would havr a front end like a 90s camaro
Sent from my R800x using AutoGuide.com App


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> I think aerodynamics on street cars is quite stupid to debate over theres not goin to be a big number because the tire sticks out a little bit 5mm is nothing like an inch bro and if it was an inch I still dont see any diffrence if thats the case you better take your mirrors of bc there sticking out like 7 inches
> I mean look at the 90s model cars thats what aerodynamics did for us and thenn look at 2000 and above we went back to square dont you think if it would have made a big dif our cruzes would havr a front end like a 90s camaro
> Sent from my R800x using AutoGuide.com App


First of all, please punctuate. Its not that much work, but it keeps my head from hurting when I read these kinds of posts and try to figure out where one thought ends and when the next begins. 

Second, its not a stupid debate, nor is it a debate for that matter; it's a fact. The aforementioned spacers will require a minimum of one inch to produce. Why? Because your studs need to either be covered completely or recessed elsewhere inside the wheel. The spacer then has its own set of studs, which the wheel bolts up to. At least, that's the correct way to do it. One inch is not 5mm, its 25.4mm, and it exposes significantly more tire to the air. 

We need mirrors, they're federal regulations, and they produce significantly less drag than one inch of tire would. The Cruze Eco comes with a ton of features that combined improve fuel economy and make it a class-leading car. A lip spoiler, low rolling resistance tires, and even the rims themselves are designed to reduce turbulence. A grille shutter, a lower air dam, underbody panels, 10mm lowering over other models, and weight savings. Each one of those doesn't make a massive difference, but together, they do make a difference. 

The incorrect way to space out your wheels like you live in the ghetto is to have a plate spacer machined that goes over your studs. You are limited to how much you can do on this and its generally a bad idea because you lose thread depth for your lugnuts. Can't count how many stripped studs and lugnuts I've seen from kids who used those spacers. They end up spending a whole lot more money to get the studs replaced because you can't always just hammer them out; they occasionally require an entire wheel hub removal, which includes removing the brakes. Compound that with the fact that people rarely know how to securely tighten their lugnuts and you have a recipe for disaster. These spacers generally make your car more unsafe to drive. If anyone here happens to try this, please let me know your general location and general route is so I can be sure to avoid you. If you so much as get in an accident that was at no fault of your own and a wheel falls off, and they blatantly discover that you had wheel spacers on (even if those spacers didn't cause your wheel to fall off), you will have an extremely difficult time explaining to them why they should pay for your car's repairs because a case can be made against you due to an unsafe modification. 

I used 1/4" wheel spacers on the front wheels of my 95 Regal because I couldn't otherwise clear the coilover springs with the 245 width tires, but I did obtain longer wheel studs for that purpose. 

I'm not referring to aerodynamics for the purpose of performance, I'm referring to it for the purpose of drag reduction and fuel efficiency, and the brick front ended cars we had in the 90s are nothing like the cars we have today. For that matter, I'm not sure why you're comparing a Camaro to a Cruze. They are purpose built vehicles with entirely different purposes and target markets. One is all show, go and performance, and one is all practicality, economy, and efficiency. 

Let me summarize: 
You will lose fuel efficiency by exposing more of your tire to the air due to drag at higher speeds. That's a fact. Using generic "slip over stud" spacers is an unsafe way to space out your tires due to the loss of tread depth.

Now, people have and always will have the right to do whatever they want with their money. I'm not trying to convince anyone here of what to do; they'll do it anyway if they set their minds to it. However, being a public forum with thousands of visitors per day if not hour, there's a responsibility to provide the whole truth, and I'm posting what I am so that someone else who comes along will know the risks and disadvantages to doing this. I'd appreciate it if the necessity for this information was respected.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> They'll need enough material the nuts to catch onto, as well as enough material to flush mount the studs, and enough total thickness to completely cover the stock studs.
> 
> Why would you want to push your Eco wheels .75" outward? I'm aware of the advantage to having a wider track, but you'll be catching a lot more air turbulence on those wheels and will take a significant hit in fuel economy.


I hate to say this but people like you on forums make them suck 

Sent from my R800x using AutoGuide.com App


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> I hate to say this but people like you on forums make them suck
> 
> Sent from my R800x using AutoGuide.com App


I've been quite respectful. I'm not the one who's throwing insults, so keep that in mind when *you *tell me *I* make forums suck. I pointed out the facts. If you disagree, I invite you to provide proof. I'll repeat what I said earlier: I posted what I did to make others aware of the risks and disadvantages of spacing out your wheels. If you do it correctly, you take a hit on fuel economy. If you do it incorrectly, you become a potential road hazard and you expose yourself to massive financial risk in the event of a collision. I'm here to make sure people know that. 

As I said earlier, _you are free to to do what you wish with your money_, but there exists a responsibility to provide complete and accurate information regarding both the positive and negative aspects of such a modification on a forum that thousands of people will read each day. If you don't tell the other side of the story, I or someone else will. 

Nothing breeds more ignorance than the spread of misinformation. On that note, I am open to being corrected should you find information that's contrary to what I've said, and believe me when I say that I will stand corrected when proven wrong.


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)




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## sedanman (Dec 10, 2010)

I don't think .75" or even 1" of tire sticking out is going to create that much drag. A little bit maybe but I doubt it will be so significant as to make a big difference in mileage.

Safety is a concern if they are improperly installed.

Having said that I don't think xtremeRevolution makes the forums suck. Debate on these topics always winds up with someone learning something, even if we are wrong sometimes in our posts.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sedanman said:


> I don't think .75" or even 1" of tire sticking out is going to create that much drag. A little bit maybe but I doubt it will be so significant as to make a big difference in mileage.
> 
> Safety is a concern if they are improperly installed.
> 
> Having said that I don't think xtremeRevolution makes the forums suck. Debate on these topics always winds up with someone learning something, even if we are wrong sometimes in our posts.


Well, that's what the truck guys also said. Believe me, some of this stuff has surprised even me, but when people lose 2-3mpg on the highway with a 2" lift and stock tires on stock wheels, it kind of makes you think. Yeah, I know, there are more reasons than just the drag from tires, such as the additional air going under the car, but nonetheless, you are creating drag and defeating the purpose of getting a car with an "ECO" badge on the back. Sticking the tires outward 1" more will add quit a bit of area to the front of your car. Huge difference? Not sure. Hundreds of hours of research goes into making these cars as aerodynamic as possible. Someone would have to test this in a controlled environment with the fuel completely topped off to the filler neck to see what the difference would be. As a best guess, I'd say it will certainly drop you a solid 2-3MPG at highway speeds, if not more. Is anyone willing to shell out $350 plus shipping to find out? 

Personally, I'd be more concerned about the rocks getting kicked up into my doors and rocker panels and scratching up my paint job. Rocker panels love to rust out on many cars and I wouldn't be surprised if debris kicked up into those panels is one of the primary reasons they do. Extending the wheels outward would just make the problem that much worse unless you got some unsightly mud flaps. 

If anyone doesn't know what rocker panel rust looks like, here are some pictures. It is obvious that this area rusts very easily due to the rocks being kicked up by the tires directly in front of them chipping away the paint until it slowly starts to rust. By extending the wheels outward, you make this problem all that much worse and increase the affected area. You might even have to get out and clean your windows after driving through a puddle.


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

The added drag will take away mileage, but not much. Especially at lower speeds (non-highway driving). I believe the biggest issue is (as xtreme pointed out) safety; ie. not installing longer lug nuts to account for the added space. I myself though about doing the same, but haven't seen any for the Cruze. That site that was posted earlier in the thread is great, but expensive. I'm still considering it though... Maybe just spacers and stickier tires, hmm... lol. (after the coilovers and chassis bracing, of course.)


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

boats4life said:


> The added drag will take away mileage, but not much. Especially at lower speeds (non-highway driving). I believe the biggest issue is (as xtreme pointed out) safety; ie. not installing longer lug nuts to account for the added space. I myself though about doing the same, but haven't seen any for the Cruze. That site that was posted earlier in the thread is great, but expensive. I'm still considering it though... Maybe just spacers and stickier tires, hmm... lol. (after the coilovers and chassis bracing, of course.)


Right, the effect will only be significant at highway speeds. 

I guess if you're going to drop $350 on wheel spacers, you probably won't mind the extra $10 you're spending on a 15 gallon tank of gas.


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## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

We can TALK about it and copy n paste from google all day long but proof comes from real world testing.

Trying to convince myself to lay down the green for them but its at the bottom of my priority list.


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## CRUISE-CRUZE (Nov 8, 2010)

Keep in mind also that biger spacers put more stress on the wheel bearings....


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

evo77 said:


> We can TALK about it and copy n paste from google all day long but proof comes from real world testing.


There isn't a question about whether or not what I said is true with regard to there being additional drag. The only question that remains to be answered is how much effect that drag will have on your fuel economy. 

I'll see if I can do some more research on the topic.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CRUISE-CRUZE said:


> Keep in mind also that biger spacers put more stress on the wheel bearings....


As well as increase unsprung weight.


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Attempting to discredit something that someone says on the basis of "you don't have proof" is silly. There isn't a question about whether or not what I said is true with regard to there being additional drag. The only question that remains to be answered is how much effect that drag will have on your fuel economy. Don't make the mistake of assuming I'm a newbie at this and I'm just searching Google for answers as if I was born yesterday. I'll choose not to be insulted by that comment but it wouldn't be too hard to.


Unneccesary defensiveness here, Xtreme. He was simply saying he'd like to see real world results instead of words on a page, not doubting whether they were true or not.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

boats4life said:


> Unneccesary defensiveness here, Xtreme. He was simply saying he'd like to see real world results instead of words on a page, not doubting whether they were true or not.


Fair enough, I'll edit my post. Thanks for calling me out on that.


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## whatsstuckk5 (Mar 4, 2012)

It really is amazing what people will argue. Considering I own a vehicle with the largest motor GM has produced in the last 30 years and one with the smallest motor in the last 8 or 10 years, Id say im far from new to this mileage game, or lack of mileage game. 

Owning a lifted 8.1 driven 2500 HD truck I know exactly how SMALL mods affect mileage. Given, on a truck that is mostly city driven and gets 8-9 mpg city on a GOOD day, a drop in 5% of mileage is no big deal, its still a drop in mileage nontheless.

Theres no doubt and you can not argue that you will lose mileage by pushing the wheels/tires out. it may be almost non existent with a small 3 or 5mm spacer, but whos going to notice 1-2%? I saw numbers the other day where the .5" drop from non eco to eco helped the drag coefficient go from .32 to .29...all from a half inch of drop. noticeable? barely. but it helps. 5mm is noticeable, but barely, but...its gonna hurt drag coefficient. 

Push your tires out an inch. drive a few hundred miles on the highway and tell us how well/poorly it goes. It might drop mileage by a couple percent...it might drop it 5+ percent. Personally, Id love to see someone take the time to do that, or wind tunnel test it and see how the drag changes. Im figuring once I drop my eco, ill drop the drag a little more and pick up a couple mpg highway, but almost nothing in town. 

Sometimes you can be as vain as me and justify the slight loss in a better looking vehicle...but thats not how everyone is. i will be happy if i drop it and add spacers and the mileage doesn't decrease.


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

whatsstuckk5 said:


> It really is amazing what people will argue. Considering I own a vehicle with the largest motor GM has produced in the last 30 years and one with the smallest motor in the last 8 or 10 years, Id say im far from new to this mileage game, or lack of mileage game.
> 
> Owning a lifted 8.1 driven 2500 HD truck I know exactly how SMALL mods affect mileage. Given, on a truck that is mostly city driven and gets 8-9 mpg city on a GOOD day, a drop in 5% of mileage is no big deal, its still a drop in mileage nontheless.
> 
> ...


My thought exactly. Drop and a slight push out will look better and cancel out the mileage 'crisis' that is our drag coefficient.

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

boats4life said:


> My thought exactly. Drop and a slight push out will look better and cancel out the mileage 'crisis' that is our drag coefficient.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AutoGuide.com App


Here's my concern. Define a "slight" push out. How do you achieve that without using a proper wheel spacer? Can our studs even be removed without a complete wheel bearing removal? Any time you add a plate spacer, you need longer studs. How many people do you think will actually go through the trouble to remove the mechanical components necessary to get the wheel studs out? 

If you just go with the large 1" spacers and drop the car, they don't cancel themselves out. You assume that lowering the car will make the car more aerodynamic, but that's not always true. There's a fine balance between the coefficient of drag that can be achieved and the downforce/lift that a car produces. The car's ride height both front and rear are adjusted for this very concept. Not only do we already have underbody skid plates and a deeper air dam that do a fine job of reducing under-body drag, but you need to consider what you're doing when you lower the car. 

By lowering the car, you're reducing the amount of air that passes under the car, which will consequentially increase lift. You will improve your coefficient of drag, but now your car also has to counter-act the increased lift at highway speeds. In fact, it can be argued that lowering your car will further reduce your fuel economy. Back to the ride height, have you noticed that our cars have a raked body stance toward the front? This is done to create downforce and counteract lift. 

Again, this car wasn't designed as an afterthought. Everything on the car was engineered in a certain way, for a certain purpose. The offset of the wheels was tucked in a specific amount down to the last millimeter. The wheel arches are as big as they are for a reason. The body lines on the hood, headlights, and front fenders were designed the way they were for a reason. Everything GM did was for a reason, and countless hours of engineering and testing went into coming up with each final decision for this car. The shape of the outer mirrors, the height of the lip spoiler, the spoke thickness and proximity on the 17" forged alloy wheels, and the specific tire width.

I think the following articles touch on a lot of concepts I'm trying to explain:
Race Car Design Tips and Information - Aerodynamics
http://www.rapid-racer.com/aerodynamics.php


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Here's my concern. Define a "slight" push out. How do you achieve that without using a proper wheel spacer? Can our studs even be removed without a complete wheel bearing removal? Any time you add a plate spacer, you need longer studs. How many people do you think will actually go through the trouble to remove the mechanical components necessary to get the wheel studs out?
> 
> If you just go with the large 1" spacers and drop the car, they don't cancel themselves out. You assume that lowering the car will make the car more aerodynamic, but that's not always true. There's a fine balance between the coefficient of drag that can be achieved and the downforce/lift that a car produces. The car's ride height both front and rear are adjusted for this very concept. Not only do we already have underbody skid plates and a deeper air dam that do a fine job of reducing under-body drag, but you need to consider what you're doing when you lower the car.
> 
> ...


i learned this is physics today 19 years old going to college lol


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

I understand where you're coming from, but the down force needed on this car isn't going to put it at a terribly big risk just by the mod we're taking about. Its not an SCCA car, and it won't be driven at anything more than street speeds. This mod is purely for looks and stance, the only question is how to do it safely. We've established that we need longer lugs and it may take a good amount of work to do that. I'm fairly certain that our lugs are removable, however, I haven't had the wheels off to check. Side effects seem to not be an issue and are accepted by the person doing the mod, so let's focus on how to do it properly.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AutoGuide.com App


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

boats4life said:


> I understand where you're coming from, but the down force needed on this car isn't going to put it at a terribly big risk just by the mod we're taking about. Its not an SCCA car, and it won't be driven at anything more than street speeds. This mod is purely for looks and stance, the only question is how to do it safely. We've established that we need longer lugs and it may take a good amount of work to do that. I'm fairly certain that our lugs are removable, however, I haven't had the wheels off to check. Side effects seem to not be an issue and are accepted by the person doing the mod, so let's focus on how to do it properly.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AutoGuide.com App


I was referring to fuel economy, not instability. We can discuss the aerodynamic effects in another thread if you'd like. I would only be re-stating what I've already said otherwise. 

I want to be clear about where I'm coming from. This isn't someone's project thread; this is a thread on rim spacers in general and more than one person seems to be involved. I said it before and I'll say it again, everyone is free to spend their own money however they wish and I certainly don't have a right to tell them otherwise. 

What I do have a right to do however is to present the facts for others who are considering doing this to their car so that they know what to expect and what the consequences will be. I'm perfectly aware that the person who wants to do this to their car is not at all concerned with the effects I'm referring to, and that's perfectly fine; my message is not to him. 

I sense that some people think I'm arguing with him or trying to tell him not to do it; not at all. He can do whatever he chooses. I just want everyone else to feel that they've been thoroughly informed of the effects of such a modification should they come across this thread. I would not at be surprised at all if this thread got bumped from the grave a year from now or every 6 months even. You'd be surprised how often a thread such as this one will show up in a Google search. I've always felt a responsibility to provide complete and correct information. You'll find that another member that goes by limited360 has an identical mindset. 



Now, moving on to the focus of *how*, and not of _why_, there are two ways that this can be approached, which have been discussed; the use of a slip-on plate spacer, and the use of a machined bolt-on spacer. As you have agreed, to use the slip-on spacer, one needs to ensure that the stud length is accounted for. I will outline the process on my 95 Regal as I had to do it there. I'll place this in a quote for organization. 



> The rears are not a problem. You take a big hammer and bash them out. They slide right out once you align them with the slot opening for this purpose. I've done this before in an oil change shop when a kid tried to do a tire rotation and didn't thread the lugnut before he put the impact wrench on it. Took 30 seconds. You then find the longer ones, and fit them as well as you can. Then take a lugnut and tighten them; they will press fit as you tighten the lugnut and you'll be good to go. If the Cruze is like this, you'll be smooth sailing.
> 
> The fronts are not quite as easy. There is no clearance to remove them once they've been hammered out. You need to remove the brake caliper, brake caliper bracket, brake rotor, and then unbolt the wheel bearing enough to get some clearance to get them out. On a brand new car; not a problem. On a 5 year old car that's been driven on the "rust belt," you may find yourself breaking a wheel bearing-knuckle bolt and having your car out of service till you get one from a dealer. During this time, you have to be in neutral so that you can turn the bearing, which will be attached to the CV shaft. Installation is reverse of removal.


Now, the problem with the correct way to do this is that you are limited by a minimum thickness. This adapter will look something like this:









The reason for the minimum thickness is that the adapter needs to be thick enough to completely cover the factory studs. You may be able to get around this by cutting your factory studs a bit shorter or finding shorter ones. A simple dremel with a cut-off wheel would do the trick. The other reason is that the adapter needs to be thick enough to be strong. You need enough material to fit the flush-mount nuts as well as enough material to tighten onto the hub. Keep in mind, by extending the wheel, you are adding a spacer that will now experience heavy axial loads. The thicker the spacer, the greater the load on both the adapter and the wheel bearing. Static load will not be too great of an issue, but once you start taking hard corners and go over bumps during those corners, the game changes. You may say, "well, I never take corners fast." You will if you ever have to perform an emergency evasive maneuver.

The real question is, how thin can you go? Since these spacers are typically used to allow you to use a different bolt pattern or use wheels that vary significantly from the offset your factory wheels have, you may be limited to how far you can allow your tires to stick out before they start rubbing. 

Also keep in mind that 215 wide tires may not look particularly great sticking way out to the edges of your car. You may want to ask someone to try to photoshop this before you drop $350.


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