# 1.8L and 1.6L P0011 and P0016, Oil check valve replacement thread.



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION.

I'm starting this thread to document a resolution to code P0011, P0016. The part in question is an oil check valve. This valve is responsible for the oil passage to the cam phasers.

stopping the oil from draining out




















(Note the blue check valve is for between the head and block for the cam shafts. GM# xxxx)





(video retrieved from youtube by "Coyote_Osornio" )

this video recently came across my youtube homepage, the user extracted the valve with a looks of a #8 screw.






(video retrieved from youtube by "Los Especialistas Automotrices" )

this video highlights the oil passeges for the whole engine


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Okay to start I'd take a firm couple days for this project, I managed to do it in one. First you will need to remove the filter box, throttle body, intake manifold, and alternator to gain full access to the access plug. plug comes out with a #8 allen, but is soft aluminum so be careful about stripping it. at this point you want to guage the depth of the valve so you know how far to insert. I didn't check if there was a recess to stop the valve, but if there isn't there is more than enough depth to lose the valve in the oil galley.










All the way in there. From the video above I tried using a #8 wood screw, but only proved helpful for breaking the orange plastic. once the plastic is out you'll need to fish out the ball, in my case I magnetized a slotted screw driver to get it out.










Main tool off the day a piece of 3/8" threaded rod, 3 nuts, and a washer. I tore apart another tool for a threaded shaft that was easier to customize into an extractor. nontheless the same can be done with the threaded rod and file widdeling the end into a point that will thread into the valve sleeve. two nuts on the end tightened together for grip, and the third nut with washer some where in the middle of the threaded rod. once the rod is threaded into the valve sleeve, this may take a while as oil will do its thing to lubricate, hold the two tightened nuts and thread the third nut against the washer, against the engine block. this will pull the sleeve out. 









now folks take proper precautions and let the starter run the motor till the oil pushes out any potential debris. follow it up with a q-tip or four and make sure there's no metal paste or shavings left behind. now I looked in the fuse box for the fuel pump fuse.... and then the fuel pump relay.... and, well nothing corresponded to their locations. I didn't find where either one was so I hooked the fuel line back up to the fuel rail before turning the engine over, or gas would of come out as soon as the ignition turns on.










installing the valve. the wood screw was a good aid in positioning the valve in the hole. once situated start using a 5/16" socket and extension to hammer the valve in, once in drop a size in socket to finish seating the valve and referencing the depth taken in the beginning.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Looks just like the other one, but it's a beautiful sight. At this point another feel with a Q-tip or two and everything should be good for reassembly.

First start everything worked as it should and no problems yet, letting the car sit overnight should confirm the repair.

my take away, carbon. when I extracted the sleeve there was carbon deposits on the end of the threaded rod, also there was carbon deposits on one of the fingers inside the valve. upon analysis the valve is a restricting check valve only allowing for a minute movement of the ball. if the ball cant fully go back oil gets restricted and the P0011 issue comes up and if it cant seat the passage drains and P0016 come up, also the spring itself is very soft, soft enough to close the valve but not much to fight gravity when tapping the check valve upside down.

in the future or maybe for others peoples benefit getting a can of brake cleaner and sticking the little hose into the valve and giving it a squirt may rid the carbon and may avoid needing to replace the valve all together, but that spring.... is an issue.



@Blasirl @JLL


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

400km since the repair CEL is out, no cam slap on cold start and no reduced power.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

600km cam slap is back but oil pressure is right there so is only slapping for the first couple rotations of the crank, every other couple starts. Cel won't go out yet

I'm following it up with a new cam gear, if there's no improvement, burning it 😂





Been compiling link and searching more on the P0011. Seems Holden Australia had a P0011-14 P0011-16 solve by removing the secondary solenoid screens as engineers deemed they were only needed for break in.



ralph1981 said:


> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone has removed the arc shaped filter screens on VVT solenoids? I read here there is a common problem of them clogging up, presumably higher mileage engines and when neglecting oil changes.
> 
> Holden has responded as follows...
> ...


----------

