# Diesel newbie needs help!



## BruceH (Nov 12, 2013)

I bought my 2014 diesel Cruze a few weeks ago and I have a few questions not answered by the manual. 

First question is about the break-in process. The manual says to drive varying speeds, and not to hit certain rpm's etc. Is there anything I need to know that may not be in there?

Related to the first is the second question. The cold start in the morning, (regardless of ambient temp.) it does take some coaxing with rev's between 1-1,500rpms to move the needle. With the remote start, it seems to warm up much faster. What's an appropriate take off temp? 

Also related is the third question. When I do start driving, by about 100ft, there's a strange pop and click. The pop sounds like a small spring snapping, originating near the pedals. The click follows immediately after and sounds like it comes from the dash. What is it?

Finally my last question. I'm nearing my first fill-up and I am wondering is it best to add a diesel additive to every fill-up?

Thank you for any replies!


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Hi BruceH, the break in is mainly, do not use maximum revs and when driving on the freeway don't go too long at a steady speed vary it a bit. It is best to start the engine and only idle for long enough for all the warning lights to go out and then drive normally without quick starts until the temperature starts to come up, which happens much faster when the engine is under load. When you rev the engine without moving the car you are not warming the transmission and this also has to be heated to work at it's best and reduce wear, hence the gentle driving on a cold engine. The temperature gauge on my car doesn't move until 60C (140F), so in winter you feel some heat even before the gauge moves, although I believe your car has an electric heater which mine doesn't. Diesel engines are slow to warm up so this is normal and not to be a worry for you. Hope this is of some help, Aussie.

PS, additives are put in by the oil companies in winter so I would ask your local Chev dealer if you aren't sure before adding anything, you know protect your warranty.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Regarding the 'Pop Click' sound......you are describing the anti-lock brake self test.....it will do this at the first roll out with every restart.....around 12 to 15 mph.

Rob


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## BruceH (Nov 12, 2013)

Thank you both! 

I must have skipped that somewhere in the manual, thank you Robby!

Aussie- It's not nessicerey to allow the engine to sit and run then? Just start and drive gently until it's warmed?


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

BruceH said:


> Thank you both!
> 
> I must have skipped that somewhere in the manual, thank you Robby!
> 
> Aussie- It's not nessicerey to allow the engine to sit and run then? Just start and drive gently until it's warmed?


I have used that method in every car I have owned and always get many miles out of them without major problems. Just make sure all warning lights are out first.


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## BruceH (Nov 12, 2013)

This is my first new car (Second car ever), and first diesel. I really want to do it right so it lasts a long time.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

BruceH said:


> This is my first new car (Second car ever), and first diesel. I really want to do it right so it lasts a long time.


Even when the engine has lots of miles on it never work it hard when cold always wait until the engine reaches normal temp before giving it to it. I learnt this the hard way when I was very young.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i live 6 hrs north of the us/can border

-40 winters

no additives will be added to my fuel


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The ABS self check at 12.4 MPH isn't mentioned in the owners manual.


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## v8318cid (Oct 3, 2012)

Modern fuel injected vehicles generally don't require a warmup because the computer is able to automatically adjust fuel flow based on air intake (usually in shorter supply in a cold engine due to less engine vacuum). A carbureted engine would require a longer warmup because it didn't have the ability to dynamically adjust the fuel to air ratio. Failure to warm the engine would result in poor engine performance until the engine reached operating temperatures (or at least close to them). This is also partly why a carb engine has a choke on it. The choke restricts air flow into the engine so that, at least on startup, the engine can generate more vacuum than would normally be present Fuel injected engines do not because the ECU will automatically adjust fuel flow to compensate. These concepts are aimed primarily at gasoline/petrol engines, but diesel engines operate in a similar fashion, minus the presence of engine vacuum. Long story short, a warmup period isn't necessary on most modern engines, gas, diesel, or otherwise. Its just a waste of fuel, unless you live in a very cold climate (sub-zero temps).


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

v8318cid said:


> Modern fuel injected vehicles generally don't require a warmup because the computer is able to automatically adjust fuel flow based on air intake (usually in shorter supply in a cold engine due to less engine vacuum). A carbureted engine would require a longer warmup because it didn't have the ability to dynamically adjust the fuel to air ratio. Failure to warm the engine would result in poor engine performance until the engine reached operating temperatures (or at least close to them). This is also partly why a carb engine has a choke on it. The choke restricts air flow into the engine so that, at least on startup, the engine can generate more vacuum than would normally be present Fuel injected engines do not because the ECU will automatically adjust fuel flow to compensate. These concepts are aimed primarily at gasoline/petrol engines, but diesel engines operate in a similar fashion, minus the presence of engine vacuum. Long story short, a warmup period isn't necessary on most modern engines, gas, diesel, or otherwise. Its just a waste of fuel, unless you live in a very cold climate (sub-zero temps).


The gentle warm up has nothing to do with fuel use, a cold engine is where most engine wear happens. The hard way I mentioned was when the previous owner of a second hand car I bought had removed the thermostat to stop engine overheating. As a result the engine never reached anywhere near operating temperature in winter and I had to rebuild the engine and found 5 out of 6 compression rings broken into pieces. He should of replaced the faulty thermostat with a new one.


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## titanman2789 (Oct 27, 2013)

I would not let the car sit there and idle more than a couple minutes (maybe as much as 5) unless you want to clog the dpf. The temp needle really doesn't move until you start driving and with a cold exhaust temp you're only trapping soot in the dpf, not burning it off. Auto regen only works when you're driving so the more you idle the greater chance you'll have of needing a trip to the dealer

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

http://Tdiclub.com


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## v8318cid (Oct 3, 2012)

Wasn't making a comment regarding fuel use (sorry if it came across that way, not intentional). I was making a point about engine performance, as in preventing stalling (all too common on a carb'd car I used to have). As for engine wear, yes, a cold engine does encounter the most wear, but it should be contained to the first few seconds of operation where the engine oil hasn't had time to coat the internal surfaces such as piston walls and crankshaft bearings. After a few moments, a properly functioning oiling system should be able to distribute enough oil to prevent additional damage. Granted, this assumes a gentle start and not a case where the driver races the engine to force a faster warmup. I know most diesels take longer to warm up so it would be tempting to try to push it harder. 
While I cannot say one way or the other whether the thermostat caused your ring issue, I doubt it helped the engine operate correctly. I would assume that the improper operating temperatures caused excessive carbon buildup thus resulting in cylinder scoring and damage.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Any engine is designed to operate within a certain heat range and if it operates outside that range the internal clearances between piston and cylinder are not quite right, thus causing more engine wear to increase or even cause damage. The car I had my problem with had no temperature gauge, so I fitted an accessory gauge set with temp, tacho. and voltage. After a 20 mile drive the temp gauge was still not registering and it started a 90F. I thought that the gauge was faulty so I carefully removed the radiator cap and put my finger in the water and it was luke warm. After finding no thermostat and putting a new one in the car ran at 170F. I didn't realise this before because the car wasn't fitted with a heater and only an overheat light before I added the gauge.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I know the break-in is a subject of much debate. I have 28K miles on my CTD now and I broke it in HARD. WOT from a stop all the time (after engine warmed up) and at this point the car still runs like new, has broken in quite nicely with zero oil consumption and nice power, noticably more than when new. And yes, I know nearly everybody out there will tell me that my break in method is bad lol


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Oh and by the way, welcome to the fold OP! You will love the car!


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## Nellie (Oct 27, 2013)

yes idling is bad now days cause of the **** dpf
the most engine damages occurs at start up starting and stopping the engine wasnt good.
reason y everyone who had a diesel back in the day left them running. less wear and tear and you werent tearing you starter up (diesels have high compression and is very hard on a starter). those were heavy and expensive.
modern day has changed some of this, but they still need to idle for a min. not like 10 mins.
either way the motor will out last the car!


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## BruceH (Nov 12, 2013)

Thank you guys so much for the feedback. Even if some of it is slightly conflicting! 

I think letting it idle for a minute or two is fair, especially in cold weather. I drove gently to work today and the temp didn't even reach the usual position when it's warmed. I suppose I should have added that my drive to work is only 4 miles away, and 3.5 of those miles are highway(55mph). Ergo my concern about the warmup procedure.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

The minute or two idling has two purposes.
1. It allows the oil to reach all moving parts before they are stressed under load.
2. It allows enouph heat to begin expanding the aluminum piston to the cast iron cylinder bore, reducing blowby and reducing ring edge loading.

After the minute or two, put in gear and accelerate gently to speed.....this way, the trans warms gradually as does the engine.
Applies to any IC engine regardless of how it is fueled.

Rob


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