# Today's cold weather observations - proper fuel, additives, and engine temperature



## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

The only sentence that would make a difference is and should remain as stated fueling up with #1 Yukon Max . The right fuel makes all of the Difference !


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

ive had zero issues with heat/defrost or starting with the car from day one.


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## DrKlahn (Feb 10, 2014)

I've been filling up with a local stations diesel which is a bio mix. I add in about 5 oz of PowerSave white. Seems to be working fine. I was at -17 on the temp gauge this morning and although it turned over longer than normal it fired right up. I usually keep the fan on 2 and use the seat warmer until it gets to the first big mark on the temp gauge, then I'll put it up to 4. When it gets to the operating range I'll crank up the fan. It usually takes about 10 miles to get to the operating range. A bit more on mornings like this one where the wind chills are -30+. My commute has me going almost straight north, so that doesn't help with either temps or mileage (the wind has been consistently out of the N/NW).


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

boraz said:


> ive had zero issues with heat/defrost or starting with the car from day one.


I've actually been very satisfied with heat and defrost. It seems the electric heater does a great job supplementing for interior comfort. I was thinking more about the time it takes the coolant temp to rise and hold reliably. I remember a while back hearing some comments about the time it took to get up to temp and the ability to keep it there, but haven't heard many during the recent cold snap.


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## MilTownSHO (Oct 9, 2013)

I crawled over 10,000 miles last week. Have noticed no difference in the engine holding temperature in regards to break in and more miles.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

revjpeterson said:


> I left to teach this morning with the outside temperature right at -20F. My Diesel started in the way I'm used to after 48 hours resting in the open wind at such temperatures - a first start that quickly stalls, followed by a second perfect, successful start. I took a video of the start, but I can't locate it on my phone, so I assume there was some error in recording or saving it. However, this illustrates the difference proper fuel makes. After filling with untreated #2 fuel 2 weeks ago (my fault - I knowingly took a risk to try to get better economy and got caught), I found myself with a vehicle that would start, but would not run more than 30 sec. at -1F. Even after adding 8 oz of Diesel 911 to try to get it flowing and topping off with 3 gallons of #1 diesel after I got it running, I found myself completely gelled (no start at all) a few days later at -12F. Today, however, after filling with Yukon Max (-40F) Diesel yesterday, I had no problems at -20F. There were no additives for any of these fills, but the right fuel made all the difference.
> 
> I've also noticed an improvement in the car's ability to build and hold engine temperatures in cold weather as it has broken in. In December, with 4000-6000 miles, I could drive for 35 miles at between -5F and 5F before reaching operating temperature, and even then the temp. needle would drop going down a hill or sitting at a traffic light. Now as I am about to roll past 10,000 miles (probably tomorrow) I am driving in temps as low as -20F and reach operating temperature within 10-12 miles and the temp. holds more reliably once reaching operating temperature. It appears that this issue may improve as the vehicle breaks in - at least it has for me. I wonder if any of the other diesel drivers have experienced similar improvement as they log more miles?


Glad to hear it was just a fuel issue and that your car is back to normal. I have been running mine in manual mode to keep the RPMS up a bit and work the engine a little to get it to warm up faster in the cold temps, but once it's up to operating temp, it holds. It hasn't been as cold here as there though.


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

MilTownSHO said:


> I crawled over 10,000 miles last week. Have noticed no difference in the engine holding temperature in regards to break in and more miles.


Same here. I just rolled 13k and I'm noticing no difference in how the engine holds temp. It can drop as much as 30 degrees (according to my ultragauge) just sitting at a traffic light. Nature of the beast I guess. I still love the car.


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## PanJet (Jun 18, 2013)

plasticplant said:


> Same here. I just rolled 13k and I'm noticing no difference in how the engine holds temp. It can drop as much as 30 degrees (according to my ultragauge) just sitting at a traffic light. Nature of the beast I guess. I still love the car.


The 1.4L does the same thing, but perhaps not as much as the diesel. Then again, I didn't have the 1.4L for any winters as cold as this one, but I do recall the temp gauge dropping when stopped at a light when really cold.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

The Reverend has redeemed himself! You are what you eat, sounds like your car is firing on all cylinders! 

I've had no problem down to -9F with #2 "Winterized" Diesel and PS White but like I mentioned in another post around here, our Kobelco SK260 gelled up at -2F. Somebody didn't mix the PS white in the fuel tank when they filled her up!  (The boss cough the boss) We don't get special diesel around here, it's just diesel and comes out of the same hose year around with additives of course.


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## ParisTNDude (Oct 7, 2013)

DrKlahn said:


> I've been filling up with a local stations diesel which is a bio mix. I add in about 5 oz of PowerSave white. Seems to be working fine. I was at -17 on the temp gauge this morning and although it turned over longer than normal it fired right up. I usually keep the fan on 2 and use the seat warmer until it gets to the first big mark on the temp gauge, then I'll put it up to 4. When it gets to the operating range I'll crank up the fan. It usually takes about 10 miles to get to the operating range. A bit more on mornings like this one where the wind chills are -30+. My commute has me going almost straight north, so that doesn't help with either temps or mileage (the wind has been consistently out of the N/NW).


I would have thought you'd have heat from the electric heater as someone else mentioned. I have no clue what prompts the electric heater to start, but it seems to work immediately only if I have the thermostat turned to max with the fan on high speed. It sure is a great feature that seems appropriate for any car. I love it. I am so glad to be retired in Tennessee.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

ParisTNDude said:


> I would have thought you'd have heat from the electric heater as someone else mentioned. I have no clue what prompts the electric heater to start, but it seems to work immediately only if I have the thermostat turned to max with the fan on high speed. It sure is a great feature that seems appropriate for any car. I love it. I am so glad to be retired in Tennessee.


My personal experience is the electric heater seems to work best on the 4th fan setting.


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

I think it would be great if it worked best on the first or second setting. It's nice to have the "extra" heat, but it's not nearly powerful enough (IMHO) and having to turn it that high to feel it just means you wait even longer for the "real" heat from the engine.


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## hulkss (Jan 30, 2014)

diesel said:


> My personal experience is the electric heater seems to work best on the 4th fan setting.


Same experience here, temp on max, fan on 4, warm air in a minute.


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## pro439 (Mar 14, 2014)

There is no #1 diesel fuel being sold for on/off highway purposes in the US this is by the EPA no matter what sticker is on the pump.Unless you've had it lab tested the EPA mandate is 40 cetane minimum and 15 PPM of sulfur.I advise against using bio in the winter months as it can ruin the fuel system.PS is only about good for a furnace not your 2014 diesel the fuel systems in use today are very sophisticated.I don't recommend running just diesel fuel either.Use a quality product such as Standine fleetguard or amsoil w/cetane boost as this type is for year round and added performance.Of course it's your car and your money.Remember when Dodge started w/the 24 valve engine and they were eating fuel pumps I have 275,000 mi on mine w/the use of fuel additive from stanadine.Just my 2 cents worth


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