# Back from dealer, more bad news



## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Sounds like you need a better tech not a different car.


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## Addicted2Saab (Jul 22, 2014)

I know these guys suck but in the multiple dealers I went in my area they are the only ones who can diagnose a problem. But the car keeps breaking on me and it's not been a year.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Most of the time the clutch pedal is replaced for the twanging noise, not the whole master cylinder. 

Actually, it's just a burr on something that the clutch spring catches on that needs to be filed down, but Chevy's repair procedure is to replace the whole thing for whatever reason.

Does the clutch take-up feel weird?


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## Addicted2Saab (Jul 22, 2014)

Clutch feels normal. Today the tech said he disconnected the master cylinder and the clutch pedal noise went away.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Addicted2Saab said:


> Clutch feels normal. Today the tech said he disconnected the master cylinder and the clutch pedal noise went away.


Yes, because it's not under tension anymore. I think he's barking up the wrong tree TBH.


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## MyShibbyEco (Jan 21, 2012)

I have to agree with jblackburn and hificruzer226. You're tech sounds like he cannot debug a problem properly. The "twanging" sound jblackburn is talking about can be done yourself, without taking anything apart.

I don't mean this comment to be offensive, but as constructive help, but it would probably be in your interests, regardless of the car you own, to track down and diagnose your car's issues yourself to _some_ degree (if you are already mechanically inclined, awesome). The instant someone tells me I need a new master cylinder, regardless of what _I_ thought it was doing, I'd say "show me why". This skill does a multitude of things; gives you confidence in yourself, your mechanic, and the fixes they perform, it prevents you from being haggled into things you don't need, or into paying for something you have no obligation to. It helps you out when no longer under warranty and have to fix things yourself. Just my two cents.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

You must keep in mind the Tech working on your Car under any Warranty claim including the aftermarket GMPP only get's paid 33 cents instead of a the Dollar of his time with non warranty pay work. The same goes for the shop. I find this hard to accept and it is true. No wonder shops just blow people off when they have problems?


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## MyShibbyEco (Jan 21, 2012)

Eddy Cruze said:


> You must keep in mind the Tech working on your Car under any Warranty claim including the aftermarket GMPP only get's paid 33 cents instead of a the Dollar of his time with non warranty pay work. The same goes for the shop. I find this hard to accept and it is true. No wonder shops just blow people off when they have problems?


That 1/3 price is not quite as you're making it sound. GM pays the dealership labor and parts, but nothing more. While yes a non-warranty job brings in profit, warranty work will still keep the lights on. I know there's more to it, but that's my limited understanding.


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## Addicted2Saab (Jul 22, 2014)

Thanks for all the info guys I appreciate it  yes I can perform mechanical work myself as I am taking my mechanics class right now and working in a shop (mostly tires and oil changes). Thing is I have no time for myself this I why I brought the car to the dealer. But I agree with you these guys down at the GM dealer are morons. They clearly do not care about their customers and this frustrates me. I will let them replace the master cylinder and rear axle bushing (warranty covers everything + a free loaner car). Let's hope it will permanently fix my suspension rattles and noise clutch pedal so I can finally enjoy my Cruze. Really not a bad car


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Curious to see how the rear axle bushing works out - the rear of my car has always been a little bit noisy over rough roads. Good luck!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

After they change the master clutch cylinder you need to carefully check the clutch for both friction point feel and noise. If they don't get the system bled properly your friction point will move. When it still squeaks have them look at the clutch pedal spring.


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## Addicted2Saab (Jul 22, 2014)

Very weird thing guys happening right now. Took the Cruze for a ride tonight and the clutch pedal was super silent (they did lubricate it at the dealer). The pedal would make the noise when it's hot outside thus hot in the cabin or when I used heat to the floor. Tried to replicate the noise but couldn't. I guess lubricating the pedal solved my issue but I still don't understand why the noise was still there when my car was in the shop lol


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Addicted2Saab said:


> Very weird thing guys happening right now. Took the Cruze for a ride tonight and the clutch pedal was super silent (they did lubricate it at the dealer). The pedal would make the noise when it's hot outside thus hot in the cabin or when I used heat to the floor. Tried to replicate the noise but couldn't. I guess lubricating the pedal solved my issue but I still don't understand why the noise was still there when my car was in the shop lol


It's the clutch spring. With the master cylinder out of the system there was nothing for the spring to press against. With it in the spring is under pressure. Lubricating the pedal and spring will eliminate the noise for a while but it will come back if the pedal assembly itself doesn't have the excess trimmed off.

Remember, if it squeaks, oil it.


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