# Need some opinions on sound staging for my system!



## Livingfortheice (Apr 22, 2014)

Hey everyone,

I am getting ready to finally throw my sound system in my car. I'm using the PAC adapter that plugs into the radio, running those two RCA wires to a clarion EQS746 6 channel/7 band EQ, then to my 4 channel amp and monoblock amp. I have everything ready to go except my rear speakers. 

Here is where i need peoples input as i am not a master of car audio yet!

My front speakers are MTX TXC 6.1 components. Very loud, love them, just redid the foam surround on them myself. Came out sexy
My subs are 3 MTX terminators, running @ 400W RMS @ 2 ohms.
My rear speakers are fried from my old car, and i'm looking to get new ones. I was either going to go with a pair of 2-way coaxial speakers or some 2 way 6x9's. But i cannot for the life of me decide. I know 6x9's are notorious for being heavy with low frequencies, and since i have my subs, thats not my goal with these. The reason i was thinking the 6x9's would be better here is because of their positioning in the vehicle. Since the rear 6.5" speakers are in the door, the sound is going to be shooting into the footwell, and that isn't where you want to project sound. 

I dont know where to go with this, so any input would be much appreciated! 

Thanks!
Ben


----------



## TheMaterial (Sep 5, 2012)

Livingfortheice said:


> Hey everyone,
> I was either going to go with a pair of 2-way coaxial speakers or some 2 way 6x9's. But i cannot for the life of me decide. I know 6x9's are notorious for being heavy with low frequencies, and since i have my subs, thats not my goal with these. The reason i was thinking the 6x9's would be better here is because of their positioning in the vehicle. Since the rear 6.5" speakers are in the door, the sound is going to be shooting into the footwell, and that isn't where you want to project sound.
> 
> I dont know where to go with this, so any input would be much appreciated!
> ...


6x9's come as a coax. Are you more asking if you should put 6x9's in the rear deck, or replace the 6.5s in the rear doors? 

If you are worried about the rear door speakers being muffled, don't. You don't sit back there and you barely will hear them. 

Now if you are after just pure volume, you could change your rear door speakers, and add 6x9s into the deck and amp them all. It may sound like doo doo brown but it will be loud. 

My advice would be, put in your fronts ,if you must change your rear doors, leave the deck alone and add your sub. You should be rocking. If you want stupid loud add 6x9's into the deck and amp all the speakers and set up to your liking.


----------



## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

6x9s are not a total waste but you'll have to do some modification to even hear them from the rear deck if they're not preinstalled. Won't sound great bouncing the sound off glass but it won't be the worst thing you've ever heard. I wouldn't be too concerned about the position of the door speakers as much as I would be with the type/quality of speaker you install. If it's a good speaker and it's amplified you'll hear it just fine.


----------



## Livingfortheice (Apr 22, 2014)

Im not one of those "I want everyone to hear me" d-bags! LOL. I prefer moderately loud, but overall, i would take quiet and in harmony than loud and cluster f*%k sound... I will be adding these: Amazon.com : Alpine SPS-610 6-1/2" 2-Way Type-S Series Coaxial Car Speakers : Component Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics to the rear door. I am getting antsy waiting to get the money together so i can get all this stuff in my car!...

Another question for you guys... Did you put anything like dynomat on your doors? I have never done this with my old car and everything sounded pretty good.. Almost no rattling. Just wondering how this car will be handling the louder, more powerful speakers

Ben

P.S. - super hungover right now.... Sorry for the awful grammer and puncuation.


----------



## trevor_geiger (Nov 29, 2012)

As far as aftermarket speakers go the Cruze handles them pretty well..now a decent amount of power and a subwoofer not so much..


----------



## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

You should always dynamat, at minimum, the surrounding area around the speaker. It's not just about rattle. Your speakers will sound better with it overall without going into killer tech specs. I've had those Alpine speakers before and they sound just fine. Adding a sub is another story. Unless you want to be that guy who is clueless to his trunk rattle or at the very least license plate... add some dynamat or the cheaper variant FatMat.


----------



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

iTz SADISTIK said:


> You should always dynamat, at minimum, the surrounding area around the speaker. It's not just about rattle. Your speakers will sound better with it overall without going into killer tech specs. I've had those Alpine speakers before and they sound just fine. Adding a sub is another story. Unless you want to be that guy who is clueless to his trunk rattle or at the very least license plate... add some dynamat or the cheaper variant FatMat.


Both are poor chooses for sound deadeners. Not to sound rude, but an elementary acoustic understanding of sound deadening would make clear that to dampen sounds caused by vibrations, you need a mass loaded layer between a flexible medium. Both dynamat and fatmat are poor (and overpriced) vibration deadeners. 

Sounddeadenershowdown.com sells proper vibration deadeners (CLD tiles) that are purpose built. Most installers love to show off 100% coverage with peel and stick deadeners, when in reality every industrial application never uses 100% coverage.

What bothers me most about peel and stick deadeners is that their manufacturers market them as the multipurpose door treatment. False. If you want to deaden vibrarions, get a vibration deadener. If you want to block sound, get a mass loaded layer. Use the right tool for the job. You'll end up spending less, adding less weight, and getting better results. 

License plate rattle is caused by the plate rattling against the trunk or cover (or both). You solve that by eliminating the play that causes that vibration. Butyl rope works perfectly well for that purpose, as would double sided tape. Dynamat would deaden the vibration caused by the plate, not the vibrarion caused by the plate and trunk lid or frame touching each other.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


----------



## Livingfortheice (Apr 22, 2014)

Thank you for both of your inputs! I did not know that difference Xtreme, so thanks for the enlightenment. I have a small piece of dynomat that i will be putting on my license plate to eliminate the vibration against the car body... As for vibration deadening, i will have to look into that more! 

Ben


----------



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Livingfortheice said:


> Thank you for both of your inputs! I did not know that difference Xtreme, so thanks for the enlightenment. I have a small piece of dynomat that i will be putting on my license plate to eliminate the vibration against the car body... As for vibration deadening, i will have to look into that more!
> 
> Ben


Sorry I didn't get to this thread till now. Been busy with other things. Review my SQ how-to car audio thread in this section as a sticky. That will give you some more information on designing a sound stage. 

Contact [email protected] for CLD tiles, MLV, CCF, butyl rope, and everything you need to get the best results from your money on a deadening job. The guy knows what he's talking about.


----------



## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Shows how long my day has been... forgot all about CLD tiles. Aside from the correction, if you had it lying around and didn't have the spare change, install it  Otherwise take the better advice and go with CLD. XR is correct in stating that you don't need 100% coverage. It's all about correcting the problem. For example it would be like repainting your whole car because of a chip on the bumper.


----------



## Livingfortheice (Apr 22, 2014)

Ya, thats one big mistake i made 2 years ago. I was super novice in car audio and thought that you needed to coat the entire trunk with dynamat and other types of sound deadeners. I spent like $300 on it. It sounded good, but now that i have a new car, i can't take that stuff with me which sucks. But i will look more into the CDL tiles. My sound system is still just a baby in terms of power and what not. But i will be looking into it. Thanks for all the help everyone

Ben


----------

