# Need some advice with GM Buy back program



## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Who is the extended warranty with? If it's not GM ......


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## amped24 (May 31, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Who is the extended warranty with? If it's not GM ......


It was purchased through the dealer but it is not directly through GM. I feel the title/registration fees should be reimbursed am I in the wrong here?


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

I had a prior buyback, it took a lawyer to make them do it. The lawyer I used charged their fees to GM. It is reasonable for them to deduct some for mileage since that was use of the car. The registration was not charged by GM, your State is ripping you off there. I think you need to take up the extended warranty with the company directly, typically some prorated refund is possible. I would advise against ever buying such a warranty.. you'd be better off to take that money and keep it in savings just in case and most often you'll never need it. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Registration, title, license fees are not collected by GM, so......that's the downside of a buyback.
You are paying $.05 per mile for usage....that is not abnormal.

The aftermarket service contract is between you and the carrier......the dealer may be able to help since they market the program.
That one item is the only thing I see you getting some kind of a refund for.

Buybacks are not a pleasant experience.....been there, done that.

Rob


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## amped24 (May 31, 2015)

Robby said:


> Registration, title, license fees are not collected by GM, so......that's the downside of a buyback.
> You are paying $.05 per mile for usage....that is not abnormal.
> 
> The aftermarket service contract is between you and the carrier......the dealer may be able to help since they market the program.
> ...


Am I wrong to think I shouldn't have to pay registration twice because they sold me a bad car? It just doesn't seem right to me, I'm going to try talking to the dealership/GM to see if they will take that fee out of the mileage cost or add it to the MSRP I don't think that's unreasonable. I shouldn't have to pay more for their screw up :\


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

amped24 said:


> Am I wrong to think I shouldn't have to pay registration twice because they sold me a bad car? It just doesn't seem right to me, I'm going to try talking to the dealership/GM to see if they will take that fee out of the mileage cost or add it to the MSRP I don't think that's unreasonable. I shouldn't have to pay more for their screw up :\


Since you have to register annually and you've had the car for over a year the first year's registration is entirely on you. You may be able to get GM to cover the unused part of the second year. Also, check with your state DMV on this as many states have an unadvertised "proration" for partial year registrations that are designed specifically for situations where you no longer have the car.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

amped24 said:


> Am I wrong to think I shouldn't have to pay registration twice because they sold me a bad car? It just doesn't seem right to me, I'm going to try talking to the dealership/GM to see if they will take that fee out of the mileage cost or add it to the MSRP I don't think that's unreasonable. I shouldn't have to pay more for their screw up :\


Each state has different registration laws/fees......you state sounds somewhat draconian IMO.
If you are buying another car from the same dealer they could/should consider removing their documentation fee if one was applied. I'm guessing that is part of the $475.00 fee you brought up.

The $1332.00 fee......Well, if you were in Illinois that would have been the sales tax and it would be (or a large portion would be) applied to the replacement car, again, only if the replacement is coming from the same dealer.
If you are not buying another car from that dealer then you could try to get G.M. to sweeten the deal if you bring up the fact this financial loss would not have happened if the car had been 'fit for use'......not your fault the vehicle did not perform as advertised.

No yelling though.....you know, the old 'you get more with sugar' thing.

Good luck!

Rob


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## amped24 (May 31, 2015)

Robby said:


> Each state has different registration laws/fees......you state sounds somewhat draconian IMO.
> If you are buying another car from the same dealer they could/should consider removing their documentation fee if one was applied. I'm guessing that is part of the $475.00 fee you brought up.
> 
> The $1332.00 fee......Well, if you were in Illinois that would have been the sales tax and it would be (or a large portion would be) applied to the replacement car, again, only if the replacement is coming from the same dealer.
> ...


Ah yeah I was reading it wrong Iowa charges a 5% tax on new cars sold maybe there's something I can do to get them to offset that :\. Thanks for your advice.


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## amped24 (May 31, 2015)

obermd said:


> Since you have to register annually and you've had the car for over a year the first year's registration is entirely on you. You may be able to get GM to cover the unused part of the second year. Also, check with your state DMV on this as many states have an unadvertised "proration" for partial year registrations that are designed specifically for situations where you no longer have the car.


 Ah Iowa has a 5% sales tax on new cars I was reading my invoice wrong I wonder if there's a way to get it waived on the next car.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

amped24 said:


> They want me to pay $4000 since I put 20,000 miles on the vehicle seems a little outrageous


you used 20,000 miles of the cars life....theres a cost to that.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

First sorry you have a lemon car, but from what I read I thin GM is being very fair with you. Registration fees vary state to state....take the deal and move on.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

[h=1]States That Allow Trade-in Tax Credit[/h]
One major benefit to trading-in your used car is most States give you a tax credit when purchasing a new car.For example, if your new car costs $20,000 and you have a trade-in worth $5,000, then you only have to pay sales tax on $15,000. If your sales tax rate is 10%, you're looking at savings of $500 in this particular case.
The following states currently allow a tax credit on your trade-in as of January 2011:
* The *Potential Savings* is based on a trade-in worth $5,000

*State**Maximum Tax Rate**Potential Savings **Alabama10.5$525Alaska7.5$375Arizona11.73$587Arkansas11$550Colorado10.4$520Connecticut6$300Delaware0$0Florida7.5$375Georgia8$400Idaho8.5$425Illinois10$500Indiana7$350Iowa7$350Kansas9.8$490Louisiana11$550Maine5$250Massachusetts6.25$313Minnesota7.88$394Mississippi7.25$363Missouri10.49$525Nebraska7$350Nevada8.1$405New Hampshire0$0New Jersey7$350New Mexico8.69$435New York8.88$444North Carolina8.25$413North Dakota7.5$375Ohio7.75$388Oklahoma11$550Oregon0$0Pennsylvania8$400Rhode Island7$350South Carolina9$450South Dakota6$300Tennessee9.75$488Texas6.25$312Utah8.35$418Vermont7$350Washington9.5$475West Virginia6$300Wisconsin5.6$280Wyoming6$300
The only states that DO NOT currently give a tax credit as of January 2011 are:
California
District of Columbia
Hawaii
Kentucky
Maryland
Michigan
Montana
Virginia

If you live in one of these states, you have more incentive to sell your car to a private party.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Honestly that sounds pretty reasonable. I started down the buyback path before deciding that I just didn't want to deal with all the crap anymore. 

Perhaps the dealer could work with you if you buy another car from them to transfer or refund the extended warranty contract, or part of it.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

It sucks that you have to go through a buy back and that you had so many problems, but you still got 1.5 years and 20K miles of use out of the car. You should try to negotiate the value of that time, but you shouldn't expect to get it for free. Maybe you could figure out how many miles were driven while you had problems, or in driving to the dealership, and ask them to pay for those. 

The registration/title/license fees are also not on GM. Like a previous person said, you might be able to negotiate for the unused portion of your current registration, and maybe even for the time it was in the shop. And the warranty is not on GM. You purchased that yourself. You should see if the warranty company will give you a prorated refund. 

I personally think you are expecting a lot. Why don't you also ask them to refund all the gas you used?


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

After thinking about this a little. The more you come across in a reasonable business friendly with the tone of a consumer that is frustrated by the bad experience but want to work out the details will go a long way. In other words, present your case, especially on warranty and ask them to help make this a better experience for you and let's move forward together.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

Robby said:


> Registration, title, license fees are not collected by GM, so......that's the downside of a buyback.
> You are paying $.05 per mile for usage....that is not abnormal.
> 
> The aftermarket service contract is between you and the carrier......the dealer may be able to help since they market the program.
> ...


Statutorily, what they are offering is consistent with the Lemon Law in my state. There's always a mileage deduction ( wear and tear) on lemon law cars. The other items would have to be paid by you regardless of whether you purchased a lemon or not. That includes an extended warranty which was not GMs decision. Unused portion of extended warranty is refundable as well.


Btw! You're the third person I know of on this forum who's lemon lawed a CTD. The other so don't come around anymore.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

Most of those warranty companies will let you cancel at any time and pro rate a refund depending on how many months you used. By the time you get the refund for that, the rest of the deal doesn't sound bad at all. They're basically saying that your use of the vehicle for two years or however long you've had it, dropped the value by 4,000. Which sounds very reasonable to me.


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## smkn600ctd (Dec 16, 2013)

I am having my 2015 Durango RT being bought back by Chrysler as we speak.

I got a lawyer...they billed Chrysler $3000. Chrysler is paying me back the full purchase price, the Nevada sales tax, Nevada registration, minus 1750miles of usage (about $750 bucks).

It was painless. Sent them the original purchase agreement, the copy of the registration and the 7 Dealer repair orders. 

Don't let them cheat you on the registration.


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## Starks8 (Jul 20, 2011)

amped24 said:


> Well the car is scheduled for another visit to the service department wednesday this makes the 12th one in under a year and a half. GM called me today and said they want to do a GM buy back


Curious as to all the issues you were having to get GM to finally agree to doing a buy back? Unfortunately, I have a feeling I might have to go down this road myself.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

Starks8 said:


> Curious as to all the issues you were having to get GM to finally agree to doing a buy back? Unfortunately, I have a feeling I might have to go down this road myself.



I believe his is a CTD and yours is a gas @Starks8 , big difference in reasons for LL. His is most likely emissions issues .


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

DslGate said:


> I believe his is a CTD and yours is a gas @*Starks8* , big difference in reasons for LL. His is most likely emissions issues .


I am interested in understanding what issues both of you are having?


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## amped24 (May 31, 2015)

IndyDiesel said:


> I am interested in understanding what issues both of you are having?


Mine has been a huge range of issues from emission sensors going "bad" constantly, check engine light every couple weeks, just recently my air condition stopped working, along with another sensor failure. I also have a weird rattle noise coming from the engine bay. It has been in service for over 90+ days just with emission issues. :\.

Also I was misreading the invoice and will only have to pay the sales % on the difference which is huge, i went in asking for another diesel cruze and was told that would be impossible. I really do love the car just not the issues that came along with it. The dealership is only offering me ~50% refunded on my extended warranty that hasn't even activated yet (2-5 year still under 24 month chevy warranty) So they want me to eat ~$1,800 for buying a bad car I can't say I'm very happy about this so far. I have emailed chevy and will keep everyone updated.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

amped24 said:


> ...this makes the 12th one in under a year and a half. ....$3,800 I spent on the extended warranty/tire protection/ etc.


If the warranty is for an additional three years along with the vehicles included three years (or whatever) you have not yet started to use any of the extended warranty yet with the exception of the tires and any other add-on's you elected so you should either be able to transfer the package to the new vehicle with only the add-on's prorated for a year and a half or get a refund based on that.



amped24 said:


> GM called me today and said they want to do a GM buy back and offered me a msrp of $27,000...


$0.20 / mile is not bad.

$1,332 registration fee the $475 title/license fee not to mention the This seems outrageous since they sold me a lemon car does anyone have any experience working with this? It honestly seems like I not only got screwed by buying a lemon but they're trying to screw me a second time.[/QUOTE]

I am not sure what the sales tax rate is there, but figure out how much of the registration fee is for taxes. You could make the argument with the state that the replacement value of the vehicle minus the prorated amount is in effect an insurance payment made by GM to you for receiving a defective product. Prorate the amount of taxes paid to get a final value of what you will need to pay on the new vehicle.
The plates should be transferable to the new new vehicle for nothing or a nominal charge. (it is in WI anyways)
I.E.

1. Lemon vehicle cost minus prorated use value equals residual value.
2. Registration fee minus actual registration cost leaves the tax paid *or* use your states tax rate times the original cost of the vehicle to determine the actual taxes paid.
3. Prorate the taxes over the cost of the vehicle to see how much of them apply to the used value. That amount belongs to the state, but the rest should transfer, if not try to get GM to pay for it.
4. Subtract the used value of the car along with the taxes for that portion from the original paid price (not including warranty, registration/plates etc) and that is the beginning basis of what you should get from GM.
5. The only other items you could add the cost for would be any amounts discussed above that you did not get - say the warranty company said to bad so sorry and you get nothing, well then add that or vice versa.

None of this is based in fact, just logic, so if I am wrong due to technicalities - sorry, but I am trying to give you a way to figure out if the offer is fair. I also did this on the fly, so you should really do this with the actual numbers. You did not give enough information for me to calculate it out fully.

You need what you paid for the vehicle
The sales tax rate for your state (assuming part of the registration fee is for taxes)
The ratio of "use" using the manufacturers warranty length, the extended warranty length, and the time you have owned the car - whichever applies
and just for comparisons sake, get a value from KBB and other sources for the current value of your vehicle.

Hope this helps


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Good luck with this. I've been through lemon law twice and you're getting a far better deal than I did even with a lawyer. Plus adding a lawyer to the mix extends the timeline significantly. YMMV


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

amped24 said:


> Mine has been a huge range of issues from emission sensors going "bad" constantly, check engine light every couple weeks, just recently my air condition stopped working, along with another sensor failure. I also have a weird rattle noise coming from the engine bay. It has been in service for over 90+ days just with emission issues. :\.
> 
> Also I was misreading the invoice and will only have to pay the sales % on the difference which is huge, i went in asking for another diesel cruze and was told that would be impossible. I really do love the car just not the issues that came along with it. The dealership is only offering me ~50% refunded on my extended warranty that hasn't even activated yet (2-5 year still under 24 month chevy warranty) So they want me to eat ~$1,800 for buying a bad car I can't say I'm very happy about this so far. I have emailed chevy and will keep everyone updated.


Might ask in future if you can add warranty after right before full warranty expires, I realize if you finance that may not be a good option but in this case would have save u a lot.


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## WBANDET (Oct 12, 2016)

I bought a 2016 Cruze on Friday, Oct 14 and before I drove it off the lot to take it home, the engine light came on. The salesman thought it might be a simple matter and after filling my car with gas he took a look under the hood. The light was still on and so we went back to the dealership and one of the mechanics who was heading home took a quick look and cleared the light and then I went home. Next day the light came back on. After a few times of this, I took my car to the local Chevy dealership and from 7am to 4:30pm they worked on it and put 60 miles on my car. I was told by service advisor (after the fact) that they put 50+ miles on my car. They thought it might need to be driven another 100 miles to see if problem was completely resolved. I told him I was going to a memorial service the next day (on Fri Oct 21) in San Jose CA and I'd put that much miles on it and let him know. After the memorial service was over and before heading to the Celebration of Life, the engine light came on again. I called the service advisor and my salesman (two different dealerships) and told them about the problem. I took my car to the dealership where I had purchased the car (in Elk Grove, CA) on Monday, Oct 24 and my car has been there ever since. Today is Nov 14, Monday. I received a phone call on Thur Nov 10 from the service advisor who said my car was ready. By the way, they first thought the problem was the fuse box. After waiting several days for them to find the part, they found the problem still existed so then they called GM tech support and were told it was the transformer. So, that was installed and on Nov 10 I was called and I drove all the way to Elk Grove (I live in Stockton CA) with my 80 year old mother (she had traded in her car to help my buy my new Cruze) and we got in the car and then drove half a mile to get gas and then just as we get on the freeway, the engine light came on. I called the service advisor and told him I was bringing the car back. I had to find the exit off freeway and go back to dealership and they put me back in the rental that I had just turned in. The service advisor said he was going to have his assistant call me the next day because he was going to be off a few days. I get a phone call on Fri, Nov 11 from the foreman who tells me that GM engineers say the problem is the computer system so they are going to overnight the computer system. An hour later I get a call from the service advisor's assistant who says the problem was the "Module" and it is being sent to the dealership and it will be at least until Monday, Nov 14 before they can get it resolved. Oh yes, and I noticed when I picked up my car on Nov 10 (for the less than 30 minutes that I had it) that the dealership had put 23 miles on the car (732 was mileage when I took it to them and it had 755 miles when I left). I've looked up CA Lemon Law and it says 4 times for same problem or 30 days of car being out of service. This car is a lemon in my opinion. I know I don't want a replacement car. I don't trust Chevrolet.


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