# Coolant issue (habitual) and Dealer complaint



## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

Well took mine in today for I think the 4th time for the coolant issue they had already replaced the water pump, something else, and the outlet on the reservoir (most recent). They called me after they had the car for 6 hours, said they need to replace the outlet (again!?) and that there was a hose that needed replacing for an insane amount for a hose. Called their parts dept and held the hose for when I get the car back and it was only 1/6 the cost. The hose is part number 13251447. 
Service guy said the labor was so high bc it had to be routed around stuff etc.... This is the hose that comes out from the reservoir and makes a hard turn down and connects, no routing needed and they wanted an hour of labor to do that!? Nope!

I'll be getting the car back tomorrow and replacing the hose myself, and then refill the coolant. 

But for those with constant problems of coolant leaking, that hose or the outlet it connects to at the reservoir could be the culprit. They replaced the outlet twice now in a month on mine. 

Here's where the hose connects on the driver's side 








And the diagram of where it goes (hose #1)


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

This is a classic case of where a different (better) dealer could have made all the difference.

You don't say what year Cruze you have, how many miles, or whether it is still under warranty. I'm going to guess it's out of warranty.

If so, this is also a classic case of where having a few basic wrenching skills can save you a boatload of money. I'm well out of warranty now at 154,000 miles and non warranty repairs have cost me less than $200 total because I did the work myself and didn't pay dealer prices for parts.

When you replace that hose and/or water outlet, make sure you get all the rubber o-rings off the old parts or it will leak. Ask me how I know. lol


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

Lol thanks for the tip. I'll remember that tomorrow. The vehicle is a 2011 LT2 with roughly 85,000, so still under the powertrain warranty. 

My other vehicle is a 2000 Dodge Ram and I do all my own work, so no worries. I also do all the oil changes on my Cruze, and when the warranty is out I will do all my own work on that as well. I love to work on cars etc, not a pro but I have the means to do what I need. 

And you're correct, I will be getting a full copy of all previous work done at that dealer and if another problem arises, I'll drive the extra 30 minutes to another one. 

The other thing is, I wonder if they didn't somehow damage that hose when working on it a month ago, as the leak was present almost immediately after they made the repair.


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

Also, since you've replaced that hose yourself before, assuming from previous answer, what do I have to do to disconnect it on the lower end near the engine itself? Just pull the silver pin that's bent in a u shape and it disconnects?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

I just replaced the water outlet, my hose was fine. But yes, slide the u-shaped metal clip out and the hose comes off. I don't remember now if there was more to it than that.

As for the returning leak, I dunno. Maybe they damaged an o-ring getting it out of the old part?


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

Awesome thanks. Should be a simple and quick repair that will only cost me the hose and some coolant. Guess I'll treat myself to a few beers on my next day off as my labor payment. Lol


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Two radiator repair shops in town, old guys, hymm, I am an old guy too now. went out of business when brass radiators were replaced by aluminum and plastic.

Plastic and aluminum radiators are a throwaway part and have yet to find a good cleaning agent that doesn't eat away at the plastic or the aluminum even if it doesn't leak.

Neoprene hoses with clamps were never much of a problem either, if a heater hose was bad, could be easily replaced, sold these by the foot. Now its all snap together plastic, actually one hose cut to length fit all, now all these hoses are special and peculiar to each vehicle. Sit on the shelve for years, and the IRS charges taxes like crazy, because inventory for them is profit. 

You pay though the nose for these.

O'rings have no place in either cooling or AC systems, with high pressures and temperatures they baked on and can't think of a better word than b!tch to remove. With a quick coupler, have a male and the female, males were not too hard to clean off but those females are a b!tch, any remnants of the old O-ring left in there, won't get a new seal. Should actually be coated with silicone so they won't bind or twist, but actually preferred using non-hardening Permatex, also would provide lubrication but also better seal protection.

With AC most of the BS started when Al Gore took an interest in AC, use to use brass fittings with aluminum tubing, those always gave a good seal with a wrench and some muscle power. Also dumping that good old Scharder valve, that could be replaced for pennies, went to a quick coupler for the R-134a ports with a large neoprene disk that would never reseat properly, and the whole line has to be replaced. Stupid really stupid, and steel caps were also replaced by plastic, they will harden with age, crack, with more leaks.

O-rings don't seem to stick to plastic as well, can be soaked in denatured alcohol to soften them up for cleaning. But once cleaned and lubricated, they snap together so nicely, but getting to this stage is a first class PITA.

Ever hear of a PCV valve that could be replaced for pennies with neoprene hose? Don't even look at the price for that piece of plastic crap used in the Cruze for replacement, you will get a heart attack for sure. 

Charging $$$$$ per hour, dealers can't even to afford to do these jobs right, so best to DIY.

Can't help but feel with all this new crap to make assembly so much easier, why does that sticker price keep on going up? If anything, should be going down. But until the American public wakes up and starts leaving this crap in the showroom, that price will keep on going up.

Shame on me for telling the way it is.


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

I can't say I disagree, I don't buy anything brand new and I buy from private sellers or a friend that owns a car lot (used) and works with me, finds what I want, and then we pay them the cost.


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## Yates (Aug 24, 2012)

All I know is I add an quarter inch or so of coolant every six months or so to keep it up to level. The dealership said this is normal loss and to keep it full to prevent a water pump failure. I figure any loss is problematic and I hope the warranty takes care of the rest. I kind of freak out reading all of the assorted coolant problems on here and just wait for the **** to hit the wall.


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

Well the dealership just called, and because the hose broke while they were replacing the other part, it's covered under warranty, which is nice bc I expected the car to be done and picked up by now and they've still not finished yet. But I'll definitely be looking at another dealer for any future warranty work and get copies of all the work already done. 
But yes, the coolant issue in these cars is concerning and I will be checking the coolant level regularly to keep an eye on any other problem that arises and maintaining the coolant level.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

gmwilkes said:


> and I will be checking the coolant level regularly to keep an eye on any other problem that arises and maintaining the coolant level.


According to 11-4 of the owner's manual, coolant should be checked every time your refuel. (I'll bet most don't.)


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Which year's manual. The 2016 manual says to check the engine coolant level every 7,500 miles (page 306). It's very possible this has changed in the manual.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

obermd said:


> Which year's manual. The 2016 manual says to check the engine coolant level every 7,500 miles (page 306). It's very possible this has changed in the manual.


OP said he had a 2011, so that's where I looked.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Screw the manual, check my fluids before any long trip, for me, about 20 miles. Was full when I first got the thing, but low about three days later. Topped it off with Dex-cool, have other GM stuff that uses this, and not that stupid 50-50 kind. Haven't touch it since, like four years now.

But this doesn't mean its going to stay that way, so will keep on checking it. I am very cognizant of plastic and aluminum parts. If they still made them out of cast iron and real neoprene tubing, wouldn't be as concerned as much, or not even concerned at all.


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## Djacob (Nov 15, 2015)

I had the same issue with the water outlet and breather hose. The water outlet cracked over time and the breather hose had a slow leak until I took it out and the tip snapped clean off. Both are poorly made parts of poor material.


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

Djacob said:


> I had the same issue with the water outlet and breather hose. The water outlet cracked over time and the breather hose had a slow leak until I took it out and the tip snapped clean off. Both are poorly made parts of poor material.


I would agree seeing as my outlet has been replaced twice now, and the most recent (at the time this post was originally made) resulted in the hose snapping off so they replaced it free of charge bc they broke it. I'd put money on it that they caused damage to it when they replaced the outlet the first time.


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## mielie (Jul 5, 2015)

Will be replacing that outlet hose connection at dealer, car still under 100k warranty. Surely that entire connection can be replaced with a simple T joint, sold by Home Depot.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

You know this has been a re-occurring theme. Whenever there is a leak at the water outlet the dealer seems to always tries to find a way to charge the customer for something related but not covered under warranty. 

Just fix it GM you know the water outlet is a problem on these cars and you know this thing should not be plastic. 

I don't understand how a hose can be a problem when they are replacing the water outlet already. If the hose doesn't have a hole or a cut on it then it isn't the problem. If it is leaking where it joins the water outlet then I would say the water outlet is the problem. 

Sorry but how this OP was treated by the dealer just doesn't pass the sniff test.


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## gmwilkes (Sep 3, 2015)

jsusanka said:


> You know this has been a re-occurring theme. Whenever there is a leak at the water outlet the dealer seems to always tries to find a way to charge the customer for something related but not covered under warranty.
> 
> Just fix it GM you know the water outlet is a problem on these cars and you know this thing should not be plastic.
> 
> ...


Sorry for such a late reply, but you're right, it doesn't pass the sniff test. Also, I have a reliable mechanic we've had work on most of our cars and I believe he can do warranty work. If so, I'm gonna take my business to him for any of it.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

gmwilkes said:


> Sorry for such a late reply, but you're right, it doesn't pass the sniff test. Also, I have a reliable mechanic we've had work on most of our cars and I believe he can do warranty work. If so, I'm gonna take my business to him for any of it.


Only a GM authorized service department can do warranty work.


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