# Fog Light Replacement?



## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

I've been away from the boards for awhile. Got tired of all of the issues with the car, the surging while at a stop light, the distance on my remote start being total crap (20 feet), randomly a buzzing noise from the engine bay.

Now a new issue, which I did not see as a big deal, until I tried to fix it. 2012 LTZ, driver's side foglight is dead, $16 later, new bulb, ready to go...of course, there is all of the plastic panels underneath the car in the way to reach the back of the fog light. 

I removed enough bolts to bend the plastic out of the way, get my hand up there, give the bulb a twist and nothing. Looking from the front, I can almost get the bulb turned enough, but at that point I'm straining so hard that I can get the bulb to unlock and I'm afraid the plastic housing is going to break.

This is ridiculous. I'm not even sure that there is enough room to remove the bulb! 

Anyone have any tips? I tried the best that I could to twist that bulb so it would unlock but no luck here. I was watching from the front and could clearly see what I was doing. 

Another poor design. I really regret buying this vehicle - If I wouldn't take such a bath on selling this car, I'd have another new loaded Silverado


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Noticed those sockets were difficult to remove even with the fog lamp in my hands, so coated the gaskets with dielectric grease first. Hopefully I won't have this problem. 

With a 35 watt bulb in there could imagine that rubber gasket being baked to that plastic. Tail lamp assemblies are the same way, those grommets are also rubber that hardens with age as the socket gaskets, so grease those too.

Boots on the spark plugs are like that Chinese finger puzzle, harder you pull the tighter they get, those got a real good dose of dielectric grease, No way to get under those to pull them up. Rotor flanges got a good dose of anti-seize aluminum wheels love to form electrolysis to steel flanges. Can remove the lugs nuts, but learn quickly you don't even need them as that wheel is welded tight to the flange. 

Should I go on?


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

Maybe this thread can help..

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-h...fog-lights-without-removing-front-bumper.html


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, just trying to replace a burnt out bulb in an existing installation. Not even sure if removing the three screws that hold the fog lamp to the bezel would help, but removing the entire lower cover may. Would try a little PB Blaster on that gasket and take a Charles Atlas muscle building course.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...or, simply call it what it is: a piss-poor design!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm not so certain this is a design flaw. My hands wouldn't fit to replace the fog lamps in my Montana and there was a lot of space under there. Between being really close to the ground and a lack of space, fog lamps simply aren't that easy to get to. As for being difficult to turn, take a look at http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion-forum/43753-headlight-fog.html for why this is. You want a really tight seal to prevent internal fogging over of the lamp housing.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

Remember when headlamps went IN & OUT from the front, not from behind? It's called ergometric design...designed with future service/repair anticipated. Apparently, GM has forgotten *how* to do this.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

The link really didn't help much, I had already removed the shield and I was afraid by twisting so hard on the socket of the bulb, I would literally rotate/break the plastic fog light housing it was in.

I didn't see a way to pull the fog light assembly out of the bumper to allow more room? Removing the bumper is NOT an option, that is the stupidest thing I've ever seen if that is the only choice. 

Way to go engineers!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

70AARCUDA said:


> Remember when headlamps went IN & OUT from the front, not from behind? It's called ergometric design...designed with future service/repair anticipated. Apparently, GM has forgotten *how* to do this.


Along with every other car manufacturer. I had to replace one of those old style head lamps. I'm really glad I was current on my tetanus shot. Changing the newer style bulbs only is much easier in most cars. Fog lamps are also relatively easy to change if you can actually get under the car.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

Of course, the MAJOR difference is switch from sealed beam "*headlamps'* to replacable plug-in "*elements*", which means the light reflector assembly(s) are now part of the body structure, where before they weren't. And, that means lense covers are now part of the body work too.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Oil change ramps is a must unless you can twist your wrist in a manner it wasn't meant to be twisted. Fairly sure when facing the socket from the rear, has to be rotate CCW. But generally try to wiggle it both ways.

Three arms at the rear of the housing are fairly robust where the socket rotates in, doubt if you will break those. And not too proud to use a pair of channel locks when working in tight spaces. But do it gently and get the feel.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

NickD said:


> Oil change ramps is a must unless you can twist your wrist in a manner it wasn't meant to be twisted. Fairly sure when facing the socket from the rear, has to be rotate CCW. But generally try to wiggle it both ways.
> 
> Three arms at the rear of the housing are fairly robust where the socket rotates in, doubt if you will break those. And not too proud to use a pair of channel locks when working in tight spaces. But do it gently and get the feel.


CCW sounds right. I could see the "stops" in the assembly so make sure I was going the correct direction. I considered putting the channel locks on it but I was pretty PO'ed at that point and put it back together. I was on ramps but I'll throw the car on the lift next time and hopefully get a little more strength on it. I wasn't sure how sturdy that fog light assembly was, for fear of breaking it and having a bigger problem.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

When I told my dealer I replaced a bulb, said I didn't have to, covered under warranty. Light bulbs are covered under warranty I replied! Said, they sure are.

If they break it, have to replace it.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

I would have considered a light bulb a "wear" item or something that isn't covered under warranty...?


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

MetallicaMatt said:


> I would have considered a light bulb a "wear" item or something that isn't covered under warranty...?


So did I.


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