# Project 1.8 Turbo (Turdbo)



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> *Project 1.8 Turbo (Turdbo)*
> 
> I'm back, after a long time not owning a Cruze. Bought a 2012 1.8 LS with manual trans in 2016. Got an itch for a turbo 4 cylinder project. Thought about going the Honda route, but 'Merica, uniqueness, and with these times, I thought "why not turbo what I have, my daily driver, and make it more fun? This will definitely be a *BUDGET* minded build. These **** kids are costing me about $1M a piece x 3.
> 
> ...


Sounds like a lot of work, but I'm sure others will join in if you are somewhat successful.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Sounds like a lot of work, but I'm sure others will join in if you are somewhat successful.


The amount of work isn't too bad.
I'm proceeding with "Stage 1"... I purchased most of the rest of the mechanical parts.

Intercooler and piping
HKS BOV
BOV Flange / pipe
Oil Catch Can

The turbo manifold will be pretty simple. A couple 90º elbows, a couple tee fittings, and a 2.5 coupler... things which I still need to get. I'm waiting on the rest of the parts to come in which will arrive this week.

I have decided that HP Tuners will be the best way to go for tuning the car once all the mechanical parts are together.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> The amount of work isn't too bad.
> I'm proceeding with "Stage 1"... I purchased most of the rest of the mechanical parts.
> 
> Intercooler and piping
> ...


They make headers for the 1.8 that may be a good place to start.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> They make headers for the 1.8 that may be a good place to start.


I happened to get a closeout SS flange from ZZP off eBay. Apparently they stopped making them.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Update...
Rather than upload a bunch of pictures, which for me, the link tends to break after years of the post up... Here's a YouTube video of me vlogging the project.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Update...
> Rather than upload a bunch of pictures, which for me, the link tends to break after years of the post up... Here's a YouTube video of me vlogging the project.
> 
> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="
> ...


Looks good so far Matt.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Looks good so far Matt.


Thanks!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Most of the turbo parts are here! Here's the latest update.


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## Harley Nunes (Apr 25, 2020)

Hey, i'm new here...i have an cruze 2014 1.8l in Brazil and i'm intend to made it turbo aroud 250 HP. Don't leave your dream cause anothers opinions. The car will be really nice to drive and like you see, there's an 1.6l Turbo in Europe. 

Let me know your updates!!!


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I saw the Unichip and thought why splice all the wiring. HP tuners can do everything. The old cavalier guys used to get 250+ hp on the old 2200/2.2l with out much trouble. 
I will suggest you get some proper sized injectors (2200cc sounds big maybe its not haven't done the conversion) if the fuel pump provides enough output.
I know my single ohc 2.0l sunbird makes 165hp stock, with the fmic and t28 and 3" exhaust should be over 200 easy.
Install a wide band and tune it yourself! A buddy had one of the first 2.2l ecotec turbo Cavaliers. It some how ran great on a rising rate fmu and an Apex'I safc2 for fuel correction because he took the time to dial it in. Granted it was way smoother when he upgraded to hp tuners and tuned it. He still has this same setup nearly 18 years later and it is still fast. (Built 2.2l with 125 shot of nitrous) 325-350 whp before nitrous.









All I'm saying is it seems you have the drive to be able to tackle the tuning yourself.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Harley Nunes said:


> Hey, i'm new here...i have an cruze 2014 1.8l in Brazil and i'm intend to made it turbo aroud 250 HP. Don't leave your dream cause anothers opinions. The car will be really nice to drive and like you see, there's an 1.6l Turbo in Europe.
> 
> Let me know your updates!!!


Thank you! I'm going to see this through and make it happen.  I'll keep you updated.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I bet you will make some good power... definently subscribing to this.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> I saw the Unichip and thought why splice all the wiring. HP tuners can do everything. The old cavalier guys used to get 250+ hp on the old 2200/2.2l with out much trouble.
> I will suggest you get some proper sized injectors (2200cc sounds big maybe its not haven't done the conversion) if the fuel pump provides enough output.
> I know my single ohc 2.0l sunbird makes 165hp stock, with the fmic and t28 and 3" exhaust should be over 200 easy.
> Install a wide band and tune it yourself! A buddy had one of the first 2.2l ecotec turbo Cavaliers. It some how ran great on a rising rate fmu and an Apex'I safc2 for fuel correction because he took the time to dial it in. Granted it was way smoother when he upgraded to hp tuners and tuned it. He still has this same setup nearly 18 years later and it is still fast. (Built 2.2l with 125 shot of nitrous) 325-350 whp before nitrous.
> ...


After I discovered HP Tuners, I decided that's the route I'm going to go. I plan on getting an AEM X Wideband and HP Tuners MPVI1 2. The wide band plugs right in to the OBDII port and then you can plug in HP Tuners so AFR / Lamba can be logged.










As far as tuning goes, I'm on the fence about tuning it myself. Perhaps I will, but I just need to research it quite a bit.

I'm going to get a set of larger injectors and see if the stock fuel pump runs out of duty cycle. If it does I'll upgrade it to a Walbro 450. There will be a lot of trial and error when it comes to turboing the 1.8 Cruze since there's little to no info out there.

Here are the stock injectors...









Does anyone know what injectors will work? I take it they have to have the long nozzles as well?

Your 2.0 sunbird should make 250 easy with 5-7 lbs of boost.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

It runs 7-10 from the factory and its low compression, simple boost controller probably will turn it up to about 12-13.

Cool thing you may want to look into is the Lund N-Gauge, it can flash tunes in and out with HP tuners and datalogs as well. 

Really wonder what duty cycle the stock injectors on the 1.8 max out at while the car is NA? Excited to see where this goes. Lots of pics and videos please!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Oh, nice! I'm not that familiar with Sunfires, but that's awesome.

I'll check out Lun N-Gauge. See what it's about.

You and me both. Guess we'll find out cause I'm a cheap ******* and won't install some unless it needs it for 5-8 lbs of boost. lol. I'll be sure to post some videos and snap shots once I get a moment.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Sunbird restore thread if you want to look.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Sunbird restore thread if you want to look.


Dang! That's awesome. Looking good!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I started working on the turbo manifold this past weekend for the 1.8 cruze. I wish I had bolted the manifold down to something, but I think it'll be okay with some machining to the flange. I'm using a stick welder and some 308L stainless rods. It's been about 7 years since I've last welded, but it's coming out alright. Definitely not a show piece. lol
Video coming soon.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

You are going to have to beat the snot outta the T piece at the flange


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Did that before I started welding until I was blue in the face. These Sch 10 fittings are tough as nails. You'll see in the video.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Here ya go gang... Making the turbo manifold... well, to the best of my abilities and with my limited tools.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

DO You have some 90° LARGE clip pliers to clock your turbo? 
C clip pliers - the ones I have. They work well. Harbor Frieght pliers wont cut it. Your manifold is looking great! Did you think about making several pie cuts out of the left over tee parts to fill in around the turbo flange corners where the gap is? It will add more structural integrity to flange. Looking great! Wish I had a stick welder, just have a 90A HF mig. I can booger some stuff together,lol
Keep up the good work!
Just looking again at the video can you re-clock the AC lines to give you more clearance for the exhaust?
I would make sure the air filter had a splash guard around it for puddles... I have a fmic from I think a 2015 ford focus I'd let go for shipping costs. Has a small dent but think it's ok. If your interested I can send pics and measurements.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

Everything is looking good. One thing i might suggest if you haven’t done yet is to replace the oil cooler gaskets before installing the turbo. It’s under the exhaust manifold and since you will be removing it anyways it wouldn’t be a bad idea since they are known to leak.

Also glad to see someone doing this. I’ve thought about a 1.8 turbo for many years now. I like the videos. Makes it easier to follow.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> DO You have some 90° LARGE clip pliers to clock your turbo?
> C clip pliers - the ones I have. They work well. Harbor Frieght pliers wont cut it. Your manifold is looking great! Did you think about making several pie cuts out of the left over tee parts to fill in around the turbo flange corners where the gap is? It will add more structural integrity to flange. Looking great! Wish I had a stick welder, just have a 90A HF mig. I can booger some stuff together,lol
> Keep up the good work!
> Just looking again at the video can you re-clock the AC lines to give you more clearance for the exhaust?
> I would make sure the air filter had a splash guard around it for puddles... I have a fmic from I think a 2015 ford focus I'd let go for shipping costs. Has a small dent but think it's ok. If your interested I can send pics and measurements.


Thanks! It's looking like something I made is shop class, lol, but it'll do. I'm working on straightening the manifold at the moment. Took it to a machine shop and they showed me how much it curled up, so I had to cut the end 90º bends at the head flange, flatten it, and I'm working on rewarding it up a little at a time so the heat doesn't distort it... It's been quite the project of cutting, grinding... rinse and repeat, but I'm going to make it work.

These turbos are pretty easy to clock. Just loosen the bolts, turn and tighten them back down. 

I appreciate it! I'm more than likely will have to bend the AC lines to give me a little more clearance so they don't melt, but I'll tackle that soon. Great idea on the splash guard. If you could send pics and measurements, that would be great. That way I can see if it's something I can use, or modify to make work.

Thanks, again!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Maqcro1 said:


> Everything is looking good. One thing i might suggest if you haven’t done yet is to replace the oil cooler gaskets before installing the turbo. It’s under the exhaust manifold and since you will be removing it anyways it wouldn’t be a bad idea since they are known to leak.
> 
> Also glad to see someone doing this. I’ve thought about a 1.8 turbo for many years now. I like the videos. Makes it easier to follow.


Thank you! I'm by no means a pro at this stuff, but it'll be a fun learning experience. Somebody's got to do it. lol. I'll be the guinea pig.

In the next video I'm working on, I completely took the manifold off, and know exactly what you're talking about. Thanks for the tip! I'm overdue for a timing belt change, so I plan on replacing anything that's looking a little worn, or simple maintenance stuff (water pump, idle pulling, possibly the cam seals, etc..)

I enjoy making the videos, so I'll keep them coming. I'll do my best to document as much as possible. Filming eats up a lot of time lol.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Little update. In the process of flattening the manifold flanges back up.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I had to remove my c clip to get mine clocked properly. 
In your video the oil drain of the turbo is pointed up. To clock the center AND compressor housing you loosen the exhaust side clamps so that the drain is down then tighten. Then to clock the compressor housing only you will need to loosen the clamps and remove the giant c clip. *DO THIS STEP ON A BENCH* with the compressor inlet laying down so the turbine stays centered in the housing and clock appropriately then re install the c clip and clamps.
How much did the manifold bend? You could have a machine ship mill a few thousands off or have it ground if you having sealing issues. Do you have any bluing compound? Apply a coat on the flange then bolt it up with out a gasket. You'll be able to see where your high at.
Keep up the good work!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Thank you! The turbo simple clocks by loosening 6 bolts on the compressor housings. Got it clocked... which I thought I included in one of the videos?

The flange looked like it was smiling, but I've managed to save it.  This has been quite the challenge building a turbo manifold with what limited tools I have, but I'm persistent enough that I'll get it done.

I took it to a machine shop and they advised to cut the ends, flatten the flange as much as possible, and close up the cuts, which I'm working on. I've made 2 trips to their shop, and the last bit of advice they gave was to take a straight edge and find the high spot, use a 4" grit wheel and take it down until it's close to flat so they can finish the machining. They couldn't hook it up to their machine with out making a custom jig. $$$

I'm about 90% finished flattening the flange and will take it to them this week, pending how busy work will be. Here's the latest vlog. The next one will include all my trips to the machine shop, but this will give you an idea of how things are going.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

These came in yesterday for the Cruze. #60 injectors from ZZP I wasn’t expecting them to come in a nice little case, so kudos to them!


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Ooo big squirterz! Are you gonna try to use E85 or just 93?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Ooo big squirterz! Are you gonna try to use E85 or just 93?


We have E85 pump gas, but the stations are far and few between. So initially I'm going to tune for 93. Since I'm going to do the tuning myself, I don't see why I couldn't have a flash for E85 as well for weekends when I want to go to the track.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Plus I'm not sure at what point the stock pump will run out... Something tells me once I get everything on the car it will and I'll be pulling the tank which will be a bear without a lift. lol


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

If it's anything like the Cobalt, it shouldn't actually be too difficult, assuming it isn't full. It's plastic and more towards the middle of the car.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

From what I've seen, you have to drop the whole tank.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I finally finished up the manifold build... It's not the prettiest thing, but it'll get the job done.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Looks don't always mean its funtional!. Function is way better! Art of the sleeper. Keep up the good work man. I think it looks way better than what I could do!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Looks don't always mean its funtional!. Function is way better! Art of the sleeper. Keep up the good work man. I think it looks way better than what I could do!


LOL, words of wisdom. Thanks! It'll look pretty with that turbo bolted to it. Now I can start working on other parts of the turbo build.

I'm thinking I'll either install the fuel injectors, tune for those, then toss on the turbo. Or I was thinking about bolting up the turbo and running the exhaust. Keeping the charge pipe off and letting it put the turbo through it's paces, making sure it's a good unit, has sufficient drainage. If all checks out, bolt up the turbo and injectors and tune for that.

After doing some HP Tuners research for newbs, seems like it's best to take it in stages. What are your thoughts?

I'd personally would just like to toss it all on LOL..., but I've been patient thus far with this manifold build.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

For what it's worth, if someone plans to turbo a 1.8, there's an option aside from making a custom manifold. The Opel Astra Corsa 1.6 is the same base motor as the 1.8. My understanding is the 1.6 turbo will bolt right up to the 1.8 head. Now this is all hearsay from the inter webs, and one person was going to attempt it on a Sonic, which never came to fruition.









53039880110 new turbo for Opel Astra Corsa Insignia 1.6Turbo Z16LET Z16LER | eBay


Find great deals for 53039880110 new turbo for Opel Astra Corsa Insignia 1.6Turbo Z16LET Z16LER. Shop with confidence on eBay!



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Plus it's kinda a tiny turbo, at least for what I'm wanting to do. The boost would kick on at a fairly low rpm with this setup. I was wanting something to kick on at 3k+ because I do 90% of my driving under that range and I'm just wanting it to kick in above 3k rpms.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Bolt it all up and install the new injectors. Don't hook up the wastegate and maybe tie it/adjust it so that it is always open. That way you wont build boost. Dial in the vacuum side /na with the injectors you plan to use as this will be useful in off throttle cruising fuel/timing maps and give you some sort of starting point for the Injectors. Even with the wastegate open I would figure you will be able to notice when that turbo will want to spool with the wastegate on full dump. Or don't hook up the charge pipes. Either way will work if you want to drive it I would imagine. Baby steps  the first time you hear that sucker spool you'll be hooked!


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Also a LOT of the opel/vauxhaul/Holden motors from the same family have parts that can be "shared" with a little thinkin'.

We did this with the quad 4's in the jbody world. Remove balance shafts, port matching different style manifolds, 2.3 liter w41/ho heads on LD9 blocks. I still remember making a rubbing with a crayon on my 2.4 GRD head with wax paper to port match a beretta GTZ intake manifold.

Even my old sunbird OHC 2.0 can share many parts with DOHC and OHC daewoo/opel turbos and na motors. GM engineers don't stray to far from each other on design... engines are in "families" for a reason.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Bolt it all up and install the new injectors. Don't hook up the wastegate and maybe tie it/adjust it so that it is always open. That way you wont build boost. Dial in the vacuum side /na with the injectors you plan to use as this will be useful in off throttle cruising fuel/timing maps and give you some sort of starting point for the Injectors. Even with the wastegate open I would figure you will be able to notice when that turbo will want to spool with the wastegate on full dump. Or don't hook up the charge pipes. Either way will work if you want to drive it I would imagine. Baby steps  the first time you hear that sucker spool you'll be hooked!


See, I would've never thought of that. Thanks bro. I like the adjust the waste gate open. And, I'm ready for that sweet turbo sound!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Also a LOT of the opel/vauxhaul/Holden motors from the same family have parts that can be "shared" with a little thinkin'.
> 
> We did this with the quad 4's in the jbody world. Remove balance shafts, port matching different style manifolds, 2.3 liter w41/ho heads on LD9 blocks. I still remember making a rubbing with a crayon on my 2.4 GRD head with wax paper to port match a beretta GTZ intake manifold.
> 
> Even my old sunbird OHC 2.0 can share many parts with DOHC and OHC daewoo/opel turbos and na motors. GM engineers don't stray to far from each other on design... engines are in "families" for a reason.


Exactly! Which luckily they make forged rods for the 1.6, which should drop in the 1.8... guess we'll see. I know the rod small end is the same diameter and the rod big end is in the same ballpark. Guess I'll truly know once I get to the point of putting together a built motor so I can see what the turbo will do with no waste gate whatsoever.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Even without charge pipes you can get exhaust turbo sounds


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> For what it's worth, if someone plans to turbo a 1.8, there's an option aside from making a custom manifold. The Opel Astra Corsa 1.6 is the same base motor as the 1.8. My understanding is the 1.6 turbo will bolt right up to the 1.8 head. Now this is all hearsay from the inter webs, and one person was going to attempt it on a Sonic, which never came to fruition.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Buy a gasket for the 1.6, match it to the 1.8. If it does not fit, you are only out a few bucks. If it does fit, buy this

K03 Turbine housing for Opel Astra H/J Corsa D Insignia 1.6 Turbo Z16LER Z16LET | eBay
Cut off the housing portion and weld on the turbo flange like you did and you have a smooth complete manifold.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Buy a gasket for the 1.6, match it to the 1.8. If it does not fit, you are only out a few bucks. If it does fit, buy this
> 
> K03 Turbine housing for Opel Astra H/J Corsa D Insignia 1.6 Turbo Z16LER Z16LET | eBay
> Cut off the housing portion and weld on the turbo flange like you did and you have a smooth complete manifold.


And the turbo will essentially be where the upstream cat was. Good thing about the placement as well is the hot side of the turbo will be away from the AC lines and put you more inline with where the stock exhaust would be. The bad, routing the charge pipe will require a longer length and you'll have to navigate around the exhaust and hot side of the turbo because of the placement of the intake being on the opposite side.

EDIT: I'm not sure how big of a turbo you can install, which I'm thinking is a little small for a 1.8, but your boost will kick on pretty low in the rpm range, and then fall on it's face before reline do to the size of the manifold and turbo. IMO. But could make for a lot of fun.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

So here are the money shots. Right now, the turbo is bolted up, full 2.5 custom exhaust with a high flow cat and FlowMaster FX straight through muffler. Sounds awesome, make turbo whines. The T04E starts to spool around 2,500 - 3,000 rpm, which is perfect because keep my daily driving under that. No charge pipe hooked up yet. This is the first bout just getting the turbo hooked up, and creating the exhaust. I did this over the Memorial Day weekend. Started Friday night, and didn't finish until Tuesday by noon. Well, more or less because I did some maintenance stuff while I was at it, like install new oil cooler gaskets, the pan obviously had to be removed for the drain, and resealed, and I cleaned the throttle body while I was at it.

I have a glorified hair dryer on it at the moment. Next step either install the #60 fuel injectors, and tune then charge pipe, or I'll install the charge pipe and adjust the waste gate so it's wide open and doesn't produce boost.

Once I get a moment I'll upload video that documents how I installed it, and what issues I ran into.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Looks really good so far. Curious, did you have to rework the exhaust pipe? I noticed the weld on it.

Once you get it going and tuned, you'll have to make a custom hood to help with cooler air.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Looks really good so far. Curious, did you have to rework the exhaust pipe? I noticed the weld on it.
> 
> Once you get it going and tuned, you'll have to make a custom hood to help with cooler air.


Thanks! I cut the entire stock exhaust out. I used a universal 2.5" kit off eBay. Was about $89. Got a high flow cat, and it has a FlowMaster FX straight through muffler in place of where the resonator resides. I placed the cat in location where the secondary cat is normally. I used a 90 / 45º piece to route the downpipes. I pretty much mimicked the stock exhaust. 3 bolt flange at the bottom of the engine, 2 bolt flange / mid pipe section, and right out the back. Let's just say I looked at a lot of ZZP's and BNR's 1.4 setup photos.

That would be cool. I've done my share of custom hoods.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Looking good definently looking forward to videos of t04 turbo whistles!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Looking good definently looking forward to videos of t04 turbo whistles!


LOL!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I'm going to have to break all the video down into parts. I got a lot of video! Prepping for the turbo install.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I like the beer on the bench! ***** Modelo?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> I like the beer on the bench! ***** Modelo?


lol! Just good ol regular Modelo


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Here we go! I documented everything it took to put the turbo on and what issues I ran into.


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## Cruze_Mcbo (Jun 4, 2020)

Beautifull exhaust manifold , what diameter of tubbing did you use. I'm turbo an1.8 too!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Cruze_Mcbo said:


> Beautifull exhaust manifold , what diameter of tubbing did you use. I'm turbo an1.8 too!


Thanks, haha... it came out... ehhh, alright.  I used 1.5" stainless steel tees and 90º elbows.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I just reread some of the posts and realized you have 60lb injectors and see you are thinking about removing the fuel pump. If you detune the stock one (at least on a 1.4 - not sure if they are different between it and 1.8) it will work.









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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I just reread some of the posta and realized you have 60lb injectors and see you are thinking about removing the fuel pump. If you detune the stock one (at least on a 1.4 - not sure if they are different between it and 1.8) it will work.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thanks! I’ll definitely look into it because dropping the fuel tank doesn’t seem like fun lol.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Just a quick update. Working on tuning the car, or learning how. Idle dialed in, but working on getting the car to not run lean and have some drive ability. I have my boost gauge and wideband installed as well in a zzp style pillar. Got a blemished one pretty cheap.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Just a quick update. Working on tuning the car, or learning how. Idle dialed in, but working on getting the car to not run lean and have some drive ability. I have my boost gauge and wideband installed as well in a zzp style pillar. Got a blemished one pretty cheap.


What is that with the Mercedes emblem on it?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> What is that with the Mercedes emblem on it?


That's the BOV.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

T04E....**** that's a **** ton of air for that car. LOL I'll have to watch your videos now, looks like you've got a cool solid little budget project here.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Ma v e n said:


> T04E....*** that's a *** ton of air for that car. LOL I'll have to watch your videos now, looks like you've got a cool solid little budget project here.


LOL, you may be right about that, but it'll make for some good fuel economy under 3k, and some power when I want to rug it.

Thus far I have about 600-700 in parts. HP Tuners has been the most expensive part of it all. Easy the same cost as all the mechanical parts. I have at least 1.5k miles on the eBay turbo as a glorified hair drier, so can't complain about the quality of the Chinese turbo.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Quick update. I'm finally to the point in tuning where I'm safely building boost! 9 lbs is when the waste gate kicks in. She doesn't like much timing at all, but I have it pulled back to keep things safe until I get fuel completely sorted out. Then I'll take it to my buddies shop, toss it on the dyno, fine tune the fuel and see how much timing she likes with that 10.5:1 CR.

I'll post some quick short videos soon as I'm giving you guys the "inside scoop"...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Sounds great, just some minor drone at idle.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Sounds great, just some minor drone at idle.


Thank you!


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Intercooler install video!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

This is coming along really nicely. There have been many waiting for someone to do this succesfully. I think you may be the one.

When you install the gauges, if you are going to use the ZZP piller pods, be carefull with the removal of the factory one as the tether can give you issues. If you have not seen one yet, my tutorial on the installation of the pods has some decent pictures of them.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I also had a slightly bent post at the top of my pillar that gave me fits. Don't believe this was any fault of zzp. The whistle is nice...


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> This is coming along really nicely. There have been many waiting for someone to do this succesfully. I think you may be the one.
> 
> When you install the gauges, if you are going to use the ZZP piller pods, be carefull with the removal of the factory one as the tether can give you issues. If you have not seen one yet, my tutorial on the installation of the pods has some decent pictures of them.


Thank you! Hahaha. This is true. Probably one of the reasons I've waited for a while to do it, but I figured, might as well go for it. That's the whole reason I got the 1.8 with the manual.

I am! I purchased a blemished one to save a little money. Thank you! I have actually read your write up and will be very helpful.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> I also had a slightly bent post at the top of my pillar that gave me fits. Don't believe this was any fault of zzp. The whistle is nice...


Thank you! I'll have a video up soon of installing the pillar gauges and the start of tuning.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Okay, so you guys are getting the inside scoop. I have my gauges installed, and started tuning. Just to get the hang of using HP Tuners I left the charge pipe off and kept the stock air box. Tuned the MAF sensor, everything has been going well. Added the charge pipe, and the MAF sensor is out of range. So I'll have to rethink my intake pipe situation. I could do a MAF delete, but I would prefer to have it because in Houston we go from freezing to a swampy 100+º's during summer. It's summer, so I'd like the MAF to do the work to keep the AFR / lambda spot on.

Because I'm still learning, in which I'm on HPTuners forum, I'm trying to figure out how to scale the MAF. I've gotten some replies, but for a noob it can be a little confusing. So switch the car over to running strictly off of the VE table.

The next thing I quickly ran into was I ran out of map sensor, so I got a 1.4 3 bar sensor and scaled my MAP. Tuning the VE table has been pretty straight forward. I have her pretty dialed in, and went ahead and put e85 in. She's running even stronger on e85.

Before I mention some of the issues I have been running into, I just want to note I have been slowly moving towards boost. Keeping the RPMS low, keeping an eye on my KR, and lambda. I've been logging my drivability as I would normally drive keeping things out of boost. Light throttle kinda stuff. Dailed in. Now were moving to boost. I've got the car into waste gate pressure. The highest it's logged has been 9 psi, but it generally kicks in around 7-8 lbs of boost. BTW, she pulls nice!

ISSUES...
1) What I have been running into, is more than likely an improper crankcase ventilation setup. Now that I'm getting into boost, I'm getting oil spray everywhere. The longer it stays in boost, the more oil shows up in my engine bay.

As you may have seen from the videos, I have a bung coming out the back of the intake, to an oil catch can, and back into the intake side of the turbo inlet. BIG MISTAKE. I'm getting oil shooting out of the catch can, and there is some oil in the entire system. So that'll require some cleaning out. I did give it a try with a baffle, used a piece of hose and a hose clamp to see if perhaps the camshaft has just been tossing oil into the bung. No success, and still having the same issue.

I've looked at how the 1.4 is setup, but unfortunately it doesn't do me a whole lot of good because the 1.4 intake is designed with an additional port to pull the crankcase pressure. Although the check valves seem to give me a little clue as to what I can try.

My question is, and after research without any real clue as to the best way to setup the crankcase vent for the 1.8, what ideas do you guys have to properly setup the crankcase vent on this NA motor? I'm stumped at this point. I'm going to ask on a turbo forum, but I'd figure you guys are pretty knowledgeable.


2) Plug selection. I ordered a set of colder range plugs, tried the gap initially at .30. Got a little spark plug blow out in boost, but this was after the intake side of things already had oil in it. Let's just say I fouled a couple set of plugs already.

I bought a set of 1.4 plugs, colder range, gap is .28. Once I get the oil catch can situated, what plugs would you recommend? A buddy of mine, mechanic by trade, said to give a set of plugs that doesn't have the tiny point, can't think of the proper name at the second.

I'm thinking the stock style 1.4 plugs should be fine? Any help or suggestions in this area would be great.


3) Once I scaled the VE table for the 3 bar MAP sensor, my timing tables are out of wack, and really only running on one column of the timing table. I scaled up the grams of air with no success. I'm still only getting data one row. I'll check with the HP Tuner guys, but I'd figure I'd ask here just in case because we are talking Cruze specific and this is uncharted or undocumented territory for the 1.8.

4) Lastly, I'm not really seeing any options for an upgraded coil? Looks like I may have to stick with the stock NKG setup. I'm going to reach out to ZZP, and see if they have any solutions, but we'll see.

Thanks for you time and feedback!


----------



## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

.Do you have a check valve installed?

Does the 1.8 have a coil pack like the 1.4? 
I'm not sure if the coils are fired as a waste spark system (all coils), 2 coils at a time, or one coil at a time. A wiring diagram might shed a little light. Probably could do a ls7 coil setup. The harness might not be to hard to make.


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> .Do you have a check valve installed?
> 
> Does the 1.8 have a coil pack like the 1.4?
> I'm not sure if the coils are fired as a waste spark system (all coils), 2 coils at a time, or one coil at a time. A wiring diagram might shed a little light. Probably could do a ls7 coil setup. The harness might not be to hard to make.


I don't have a check valve installed. Does the check valve work close under boost or when under vacuum?

After doing a little research, I saw the LS7 setup. Looks pretty cool. Are the LS7 coils stock units that could be bought for a reasonable price? $500 is pretty pricey for the MSD style coil, but I guess that's the price you pay to get a better setup. This project is starting to quickly go from a budget build to $$$ lol.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

-loki- said:


> Does the 1.8 have a coil pack like the 1.4?


The 1.8 has a four-plug unit like the 1.4T, but the spacing is a bit different as I recall (ie - they're not interchangeable).



> I'm not sure if the coils are fired as a waste spark system (all coils), 2 coils at a time, or one coil at a time. A wiring diagram might shed a little light. Probably could do a ls7 coil setup. The harness might not be to hard to make.


On the 1.8, there is a separate wire from the ECM for each coil, so there's no need for wasted spark. That is, I assume the oomputer fires them all separately. But I know, some of the V6's used wasted spark - each coil (transformer) fired 2 cylinders simultaneously.

I've attached a schematic for the 1.8 ignition (2013).

Doug

.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Because I'm still learning, in which I'm on HPTuners forum, I'm trying to figure out how to scale the MAF. I've gotten some replies, but for a noob it can be a little confusing. So switch the car over to running strictly off of the VE table.


*Talk to @RoninDusette, I think he has done this.*



Crewz said:


> 1) What I have been running into, is more than likely an improper crankcase ventilation setup. Now that I'm getting into boost, I'm getting oil spray everywhere. The longer it stays in boost, the more oil shows up in my engine bay.


*Can you post some sort of diagram of what you did? Just recently Ronin asked about this. The tiny bit of info I found kind of eludes to the fact that it is very similar to the 1.4 in at least function, if not form.*



Crewz said:


> As you may have seen from the videos, I have a bung coming out the back of the intake, to an oil catch can, and back into the intake side of the turbo inlet. BIG MISTAKE. I'm getting oil shooting out of the catch can, and there is some oil in the entire system. So that'll require some cleaning out. I did give it a try with a baffle, used a piece of hose and a hose clamp to see if perhaps the camshaft has just been tossing oil into the bung. No success, and still having the same issue.


*I am pretty sure the catch can belongs in the PCV circuit*



Crewz said:


> 3) Once I scaled the VE table for the 3 bar MAP sensor, my timing tables are out of wack, and really only running on one column of the timing table. I scaled up the grams of air with no success. I'm still only getting data one row. I'll check with the HP Tuner guys, but I'd figure I'd ask here just in case because we are talking Cruze specific and this is uncharted or undocumented territory for the 1.8.


*Again, talk to Ronin*


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

plano-doug said:


> The 1.8 has a four-plug unit like the 1.4T, but the spacing is a bit different as I recall (ie - they're not interchangeable).
> 
> 
> On the 1.8, there is a separate wire from the ECM for each coil, so there's no need for wasted spark. That is, I assume the oomputer fires them all separately. But I know, some of the V6's used wasted spark - each coil (transformer) fired 2 cylinders simultaneously.
> ...


Thank you. That's very helpful. I'll dig into what it'll take to put some on in the near future.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> *Talk to @RoninDusette, I think he has done this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you! I'll post a diagram a little later tonight. After doing some research I think I might have a solution figured out. I'll be sure to reach out to see if he can guide me in the right direction.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Pretty sure it blocks boost as I don't think you would want to pressurize the crankcase, but don't quote me on that as I haven't googled it yet. 

I would think an oem ls7 coil per plug setup would still be superior to the stock 1.8 coil pack. Looking on ebay... maybe 150 for a set of four with a harness??? Hmmm


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Okay, here are the two variations that I tried that were a major fail. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

At this moment, I am guessing, but don't you need a valve to block boost and only allow vapor recovery during vacuum?


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I believe you need 2 check valves... you definitely do t want to pressurize the crank case or can. The vaccum in the crank case helps seat the piston rings and you need the check valve to block the positive pressure.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> At this moment, I am guessing, but don't you need a valve to block boost and only allow vapor recovery during vacuum?


That's what I'm thinking where I went wrong...



-loki- said:


> I believe you need 2 check valves... you definitely do t want to pressurize the crank case or can. The vaccum in the crank case helps seat the piston rings and you need the check valve to block the positive pressure.


I think you're right. I need one for the PCV because after some research, my thoughts below, I originally thought is closed under positive pressure, but looks like it would be wide open and I've been pressurizing the crankcase. Not good. So I'll need to get rid of the corrugated tube that goes from the internal pcv in the valve cover and behind the throttle plate. Add a check valve there to keep boost from going into the valve cover / crankcase. Maybe that's all I need along with the catch can? I see setups, as you mentioned with 2 check valves. Looks like the 1.4 has that kind of setup. 

My understanding of the stock PCV system, NA, under high vacuum, Idle, part throttle low RPM, high load situations it's restricting the airflow or vacuum it's pulling from the crankcase. Under low vacuum, full throttle, it opens up more. The system is metered. Correct me if I'm wrong.










This is where things get not so clear for me when it comes to a turbo PCV setup, and feel free to chime in. I'm here to learn, need to get my system setup properly for my application, and I'm more than willing to be the 1.8 turbo guinea pig. I'm going to need to have two separate systems. I'll need to add a check valve between the stock PCV and the throttle body, because the PCV doesn't completely close. I'm think the issue with my setup is exactly that, boost is being pushed past the PCV and into the crank case. While I'm at it, I'll use the catch can I have.

But, the second part of the system... while under boost, I need to vent, or pull the extra blow by generated from the turbo. So perhaps tap the valve cover on the opposite side of the PCV (front) run that to a check valve that will open under boost and allow the pressure to be pushed or pulled out, add an oil catch can that will vent to atmosphere...??? During vacuum the check valve is closed so there's no vacuum leak. Looks like most turbo setups have it go directly to the intake side of the turbo. But let's say this setup doesn't work? Then I'll have to reclean the intake system all over again...

What do you guys think? Here's a diagram... of the two options.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I am not saying this is correct, but isn't this the same as option 1?


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

XR did the homework on the 1.4...

Cruze 1.4 vacuum diagram

This should help with your setup I believe.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I am not saying this is correct, but isn't this the same as option 1?
> 
> Looks like it. I take it I would need to put a check valve on both sides so I'm not pressurizing the catch can and shooting oil everywhere? I know a PCV is a pretty simple system, but how did this become so complicated? The V8 guys have the PCV on one side, and vent on the other... which is why I thought maybe the vent needs to be on the other side? I'm so confused...
> 
> View attachment 287649


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Looks like it. I take it I would need to put a check valve on both sides so I'm not pressurizing the catch can and shooting oil everywhere? I know a PCV is a pretty simple system, but how did this become so complicated? The V8 guys have the PCV on one side, and vent on the other... which is why I thought maybe the vent needs to be on the other side? I'm so confused...


The V8 valve covers are somewhat separated although still connected. Maybe it was just for looks - balance, Feng Shui whatever.

We ( by we I mean you ) need a guinea pig to cut up their 1.8 valve cover to see how close it is to a 1.4 PCV setup.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> The V8 valve covers are somewhat separated although still connected. Maybe it was just for looks - balance, Feng Shui whatever.
> 
> We ( by we I mean you ) need a guinea pig to cut up their 1.8 valve cover to see how close it is to a 1.4 PCV setup.


🤣 I'm on it!!!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

About 18 more photos coming...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Another 10...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Last batch...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

So, from what I've gathered, after cavemanning the crap out of the valve cover, the PCV gathers air mainly from the exhaust side of the valve cover in which it's an oil separator. The PCV pulls in the positive crank case pressure, and blow by gases. It separates the air, pulls it along the pulley side of the valve cover... It also looks like it's pulling air from the intake side as well?

I'll put together a diagram...

You're probably wondering? Why the head is off? I took it apart so you guys can see how the PCV works... kidding. One of the main reasons it's apart is because I under estimated the importance of a properly setup PCV system and completely set it up wrong. I should have done more research, but as you guys know. There's not a whole lot of info out there for turbocharging an 1.8. All I could find is, the PCV is built into the valve cover. Long story short, My charge pipe, turbo, intake, and my engine at that matter got hosed with oil and blow by gases. I pulled the charge pipe off, and cleaned it, put it back together. At that point it was too late. The intake was full of oil as well which cause spark plug fouling, it's fouled my MAP sensor, as well as my MAF sensor. Let's just say the car would hardly idle, run, and when it would decide the AFR was correct a puff of smoke would come out. The car was also running in constant boost at that point, the turbo was running pretty hot (doesn't seem damaged, but it melted the valve cover, charred my hood insulation, and the ECU was pulling 10º timing and still had 10º of knock. I could barely drive 35 and had a huge lose of power.

While data logging I got all kinds of error codes. MAP sensor out of range, MAF sensor out of range. I also didn't have my down stream 02 sensor hooked up...

So, I felt the need to pull the head off and pistons out to inspect everything. The pistons look great, aside from lots of carbon build up. The intake needs a major cleaning to get rid of all the oil blown into the intake, along with the carbon build up from the systems stock PCV. There are still hone marks towards the top of the cylinders, can't catch my nail on any of part of the cylinder walls, and the wear padding on the pistons are still great. The bearings look pretty decent too.

The plan at the moment is to hone the block, clean the carbon off the pistons, rings, and intake. I'm going to gap the top and bottom rings for boost, .022. I purchase a port and polish kit, so while the head is off, you better believe it. Some port and polish work is going to go into the head. I have a valve train organizing try to keep things in order. I'll knock off any sharp edges in the combustion chamber while I'm at it and smooth out any harsh edges, which will lower the CR a touch. This engine has 10.5:1 CR. so it can't hurt.

I got a bunch of parts in to essentially rebuild the motor. I may just go ahead and pull the block since I'm about 8 bolts away, send it to the machine shop, have it decked, and the cylinder head decked as well after finishing port and polish work. Perhaps a 3 angle valve job while I'm at it. I got some ARP studs in as well as some forged connecting rods. So the crank will definitely need to be balanced. Stock pistons will go back in, unless my buddy can indeed get some forged blanks that'll work and can be machined to work for the 1.8. Well see what my budget allows, and how much of the work I can get done as a favor. I'll keep ya'll updated on that.

So, basically I'm looking at moving on to Stage 2 of my plan. Tuning the car on the 7-9 lbs of boost, in which it was living just fine on. Once I get that dialed in, off to the dyne we go, and I'm going to crank the boost until the T40E can't be turned up anymore. Oh, there's plans to upgrade the clutch as well to hold the power.

This project has quickly went from a budget build and moving closer to being fully built... Thanks to my mistake in an improper PCV setup for the turbo lol


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Just ruminating here...

Are the pistons the same or different diameter as the 1.4?...

Are the springs the same or different as the 1.4?... just thinking about the stiffer springs for the 1.4 ...

Decking the block / shaving the head ... I was told the 1.4 does not have enough meat to do that as something will no longer fit on the front - how about the 1.8?...

Stock pistons ... the 1.4 has many piston issues, does the 1.8 ...

You should talk to @XtremeRevolution about the differences between the 1.4 and the 1.8. He is the 1.4 PCV guru.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Get it boi! We are all rooting for you! 

Besides the springs are there any foreign turbo variants of the 1.8(1.6 or others) that some cams could be sourced from. Daewoos Vauxhalls etc...

I would see if you could get a MLS head gasket from cometic.

Sounds like your having some fun on the 4th! I'm cutting down apple trees! If I had my cnc upgrade done I'd machine some stuff for ya


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Just ruminating here...
> 
> Are the pistons the same or different diameter as the 1.4?...
> 
> ...


The 1.4 specs are:
Bore 
72.5 mm
2.854 in

Stroke 
82.6 mm
3.3 in

Full specs on the engine here.

The 1.8 specs are:
Bore 
80.5 mm
3.169 in

Stroke 
88.2 mm
3.472 in

Full specs here.

Mu understanding is they're completely different animals which is why a lot of the parts, engine wise, aren't interchangeable with the 1.8. The overseas 1.6 has interchangeable parts. It's pretty much the same engine casting aside from piston size, I believe. The stroke might even be different.

I did some reading on the Opel Astra forums and found the 1.6 and 1.8 have the same size connecting rods. I cross referenced the rod specs and they seem the same. We shall see because I ordered some 1.6 rods and we'll see how true that is. Hopefully I didn't waste $200. They will arrive Monday.
Here are the connecting rods with ARP studs, which have been confirmed. Lots of good reviews on MaXpeeding Rods... rods... lol








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I've only heard about issues with the 1.4 engines. Fingers crossed mine hold up just fine. Lots of the LS guys run stock bottom end junkyard motors. Pistons, rods, and even the rings just opened up to .035, 25lbs of boost, and 800-1,500hp depending on cubic size. A build my brother is putting in his truck, so he's also watching my progress on this little 1.8. The only thing done to these engines are a hone, decking, the stock rings opened up for boost, and larger injectors... of coarse better top end stuff, but the bottom end stock. What kills a turbocharge engine are the ring lands breaking due to the piston rings butting up under the increased heat generated by MOE POWA BABY!!





I'm looking at the block, and the meat on the head. Surely a couple thousands taken off to clean up the deck, and head to make sure they seat, shouldn't be an issue. I'll confirm with my machinist, which I am not.

Darn it @XtremeRevolution chime in! LOL


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Picture of the head and block meat lol, not that it means a whole lot. Let's push the envelope shall we?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Get it boi! We are all rooting for you!
> 
> Besides the springs are there any foreign turbo variants of the 1.8(1.6 or others) that some cams could be sourced from. Daewoos Vauxhalls etc...
> 
> ...


LOL! Trying! Thanks bro!

The 1.6 rods, which I got an affordable set on the way. I'll post pictures once they come in and see how much difference there is in weight. I'm sure I'll have to have the rotating assembly balanced.

The stock head gasket, thank the lawt, is a MLS (3 layers with a coating).  Score!!! Did GM want this motor boosted? Thus far with, record data log has been 9 psi... Couldn't tell you seat of the pants WHP, but it's been scooting on e85 and has me wanting more.

LOL! I'm enjoying it, aside from my daily driver being down and camping at my shop to get work done, and to work on the Cruze. Still having a blast. With all the COVID stuff going on, I've been having most things delivered anyhow. Just miss getting her in boost and tuning. Wont be long before it's back up and running though and able to handle more power.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Meat lolz


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Meat lolz


 LOL!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I'm thinking this may be my best bet. Separates the stock PCV system. An oil catch can will go in line so I'm not cleaning carbon / oil deposits in the intake and it'll help extend the life of the engine since I'm this far along in practically rebuilding the engine. The check valve will keep the oil catch can from seeing any boost, as well as the crank case. The other part of the system will pull crankcase pressure out, but will close under any vacuum. Thoughts?


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

With that setup you need 4 check valves... block both sides of the lines during boost I believe...


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

On the right side of it block under boost... but yes your wanting 4 check valves to prevent back flow during the desired condition.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Mu understanding is they're completely different animals which is why a lot of the parts, engine wise, aren't interchangeable with the 1.8. The overseas 1.6 has interchangeable parts. It's pretty much the same engine casting aside from piston size, I believe. The stroke might even be different.
> 
> I did some reading on the Opel Astra forums and found the 1.6 and 1.8 have the same size connecting rods. I cross referenced the rod specs and they seem the same. We shall see because I ordered some 1.6 rods and we'll see how true that is. Hopefully I didn't waste $200. They will arrive Monday.
> Here are the connecting rods with ARP studs, which have been confirmed. Lots of good reviews on MaXpeeding Rods... rods... lol
> ...


This is coming along nicely. I am surprised there are only a few of us posting here. I think when this is done, you'll get a ton of folks looking for more info and possibly parts. You may have to gear up to do this again.

Have you tried to talk to someone at RacingsPioneer? They are based in China and maybe they can put you in touch with someone that is doing a similar build on a 1.6. 
Do you think the spring seats are the same and also the same diameter? If so you may be able to use the upgraded 1.4 springs. If not you'll probably have to find a manufacturer to make some based on your specs.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

The boost should not be coming from the valve cover, so I don't think you need to check it there anyways, so probably put it on the blue lines. Remember now, I am a limited turbo knowledge guy...
I would think a basic flow diagram of a turbo setup and a PVC setup would be a good thing to look at though, just to get the cockles out of this.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Yea I'm really surprised there isn't more traffic on this build. Lots of fun and technical info-jargen.


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## txcruze26 (Jul 7, 2015)

Man you guys are smart, glad I found this thread


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Check valves are cheap insurance, by having 2 in the same circuit you have redundancy if one should fail open.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> On the right side of it block under boost... but yes your wanting 4 check valves to prevent back flow during the desired condition.


Sounds good. I'm going to toss up what I think might be a simple solution that will closely resemble the stock 1.4 setup.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Here is what I'm thinking will work and is simple. Somewhat operates like the 1.4 setup.

The stock PCV, system stays intact and will pull in crankcase pressure as intended. Oil catch can to keep the system clean, and a check valve to keep between to keep boost pressure from entering. I'll tee it just after the stock valve cover outlet, check valve so there is no vacuum leak. So the system will be closed under vacuum but will either open during boost, and or all the easiest path of resistance for the crankcase pressure to be pulled in either behind the the throttle body or just in front of the turbo. Oil catch can, may even put a cheap Harbor Freight oil air separator there for cheap insurance.

I'll more than likely run this setup, unless someone can point out why this wouldn't work pretty much like the stock PCV setup. I have tested the stock PCV, or diaphragm before tearing it apart. It doesn't completely close but regulates the pressure, unless the PCV has gone bad. I do have a new OEM GM cover at the shop in which I'm going to check it with some light pressure, 5 psi, so indeed make sure my theory is correct.

By using the stock outlet / inlet, I'll take advantage of the built in oil / air separator built into the valve cover, and I won't have to drill a how and worry about making some sort of baffle to keep oil from being flung or sucked into the system.


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

I don't think you'd want that upper one going into the intake by the engine as that'll be pressurized with boost. You'd have to route them both to the turbo inlet side so they always see vacuum.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> This is coming along nicely. I am surprised there are only a few of us posting here. I think when this is done, you'll get a ton of folks looking for more info and possibly parts. You may have to gear up to do this again.
> 
> Have you tried to talk to someone at RacingsPioneer? They are based in China and maybe they can put you in touch with someone that is doing a similar build on a 1.6.
> Do you think the spring seats are the same and also the same diameter? If so you may be able to use the upgraded 1.4 springs. If not you'll probably have to find a manufacturer to make some based on your specs.


Thank you!!! Hahaha, I'm sure too once I'm all finished and there will be a ton of questions. I'd say ask now as things are unfolding and participate.

I have the springs off now. I need to straight up and find my dial calipers to get measurements so I can see what'll work. I don't know much about the 1.4 springs, but I was surprised to see the stock springs on the 1.8 are beehive style springs. Perhaps a second inner spring would be enough to keep valve float under control at higher RPMS. I would be nice to get the motor revving up to 8k and still building power, but as it sits now, or while I had things up and running, the car falls on it's face around 5,500 which I'm resolving while the car is apart.


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Check valves are cheap insurance, by having 2 in the same circuit you have redundancy if one should fail open.


This is true.


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

txcruze26 said:


> Man you guys are smart, glad I found this thread


LOL! Welcome aboard!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

WillL84 said:


> I don't think you'd want that upper one going into the intake by the engine as that'll be pressurized with boost. You'd have to route them both to the turbo inlet side so they always see vacuum.


The stock PCV goes from the valve cover to behind the throttle body, which will see boost. So I'm going to install a check valve to stop boost. Knowing that, check out the diagram I just posted and let us know if your thoughts on the setup while the car is apart.


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Crewz said:


> The stock PCV goes from the valve cover to behind the throttle body, which will see boost. So I'm going to install a check valve to stop boost. Knowing that, check out the diagram I just posted and let us know if your thoughts on the setup while the car is apart.


Yea that added check valve should work fine I would think


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I got a lot done over this weekend on the Cruze...

I Chem Dipped the pistons (they practically look like new) as well as the chambers while the valves were in. Simply laid the head flat and poured it into the chambers. No fluid leaked past the valves, so they are in good working order. I do plan to at least lap them to clean them up. It took about 4 hours per piston, and 4 for the head.


















I then disassembled (no disassemble Johny 5! if you get that, we're getting old) the cylinder head using the proper cam locking tool, and a good old fashioned tried and true way of using a socket and hammer. Wear and play on all parts look good after 120k miles. So a refresh is all that will be needed here.

I kept things organized with a valve train organizing tray. We're keeping with the theme of LOW BUCK, which will include the rebuild of the head. A pizza box with holes can save you some $$$, but I'm cool with the $25 expense because something tells me it's not the last engine I'll do.

The valve springs are a beehive style, which is great. I'll get dimensions to see if there's anything I can find that will help with valve float at higher RPMs.

I have new valve seals on the way, and new cam seals are already in. Let's just consider these consumables like oil. They're cheap, and while I'm in there, this is the best time to do it.

























Speaking of, I went ahead and gasket matched the intake ports, and polished the intake runners as well. It took me about 4 hours total from start to finish for the intake side.

























I started to work on the exhaust ports, but ran out of time for the weekend and my carbide bit started gumming up with carbon. I should have poured chem dip in the exhaust ports will I had things together. Live and learn.

Lastly some key parts came in. Some good news and bad news though...

Upgraded rods from MaXpeeding Rods... They are the same size, come with ARP studs, but I still need to check the width with dial calipers, but the small and big ends are the same size diameter wise. I install a pin from the stock rods, perfect clearance. Install bearings, good to go. The weight isn't too far off, so I may be able to balance the big and small ends myself without the machine shop costs. I'll update you on that.

The bad... The tangs on the rod body are on the other side. After all these are made for the 1.6 guys on the other side of the pond. Solution maybe to just get two sets of rod bearings.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Aside from that, these seem to be a direct drop is, with some balancing.

My ARP studs came in... the bad. Even though this is the part number recommended, they will not work. They are larger in diameter, the thread pitch is different, and they are shorter. If I have time to contact ARP to send them a stock stud, I will. These were the part number Carid.com and others stat work. Part number is 131-4001 WHICH DON'T FIT. If worse comes to work, I'll just get some stock ones and call it a day. I'll sleep better with ARP studs sandwiching things together, but I know I'm working with a very unpopular model of car to modify.










I'll report back once I have more.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> This is true.


But twice to clean...


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Thank you!!! Hahaha, I'm sure too once I'm all finished and there will be a ton of questions. I'd say ask now as things are unfolding and participate.
> 
> I have the springs off now. I need to straight up and find my dial calipers to get measurements so I can see what'll work. I don't know much about the 1.4 springs, but I was surprised to see the stock springs on the 1.8 are beehive style springs. Perhaps a second inner spring would be enough to keep valve float under control at higher RPMS. I would be nice to get the motor revving up to 8k and still building power, but as it sits now, or while I had things up and running, the car falls on it's face around 5,500 which I'm resolving while the car is apart.


I was thinking about the aftermarket 72# valve springs for the 1.4. I think they are from ZZP or BNR. You should be able to ask for specs from them.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> I got a lot done over this weekend on the Cruze...
> 
> I Chem Dipped the pistons (they practically look like new) as well as the chambers while the valves were in. Simply laid the head flat and poured it into the chambers. No fluid leaked past the valves, so they are in good working order. I do plan to at least lap them to clean them up. It took about 4 hours per piston, and 4 for the head.
> 
> ...


Did you CC the chambers? You should be able to do that yourself.

If the rods don't work you can have them shot peened to strengthen and stress relieve them and magnafluxed to look for cracks.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Did you CC the chambers? You should be able to do that yourself.
> 
> If the rods don't work you can have them shot peened to strengthen and stress relieve them and magnafluxed to look for cracks.


I haven't yet. When I was sucking out the Chem Dip with a syringe, I thought I should have kept track of the fluid. I'll do that with some alcohol when I get a moment.

Speaking off...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I was thinking about the aftermarket 72# valve springs for the 1.4. I think they are from ZZP or BNR. You should be able to ask for specs from them.


Thanks. I'm going to look into those. Once I get a moment I'll measure the springs.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

WillL84 said:


> Yea that added check valve should work fine I would think


I think so too. Thanks!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> But twice to clean...


You're right about that.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Everything checks out on the MaXpeeding Rods... rods... They're within specs. Mine are a little on the looser end because of wear in, but they're good to go! A solution for the bearings will be just to order the 1.6L variants so the tangs will match up.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Some boost sounds!!! This is while I was tuning and doing a ton of logs before the system got lined with oil.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I just got off the phone with ARP, since both attempts at buying a kit, that's supposed to work with the Cruze, have been a big fail. The gentle man the answered the phone was nice enough to send me a couple head studs. 1 option is a single stud from a Toyota, and the other will be an oversized stud for a Dodge Neon. Should the Toyota stud not work, the plan is to see whether or not they can machine the block for a larger 11mm stud. I'll keep you guys posted once I get that situated / figured out.


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## Histak (Jan 28, 2018)

Got a lot to set-up.  But, it sounds like a winner! Thanks for sharing.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Histak said:


> Got a lot to set-up.  But, it sounds like a winner! Thanks for sharing.


A lot of work ahead, but I'm enjoying it.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Ton of research going into this... The ARP studs arrived which I'll check if what they sent will work tomorrow and get some work done on the car.

After taking measurements, looks like SuperTech's Beehive SPR-MC56BE valve springs will work. They're about $130 and work with the stock retainers. I'm going to place an order for some and from my measurements, they should work. My only concern is the top ID of the spring seem a little tight. The springs are rated at:

Press.Seat: 65 @33.6mm
Press.Open: 163 @10

This weekend I'll finish up porting and polishing the exhaust ports. The plan is to hand lap the valves. The head deck is FLAT. Just needs a little cleaning and will be good to go. The block will come out as well as any other accessories on the block, then off to the machine shop for crankshaft balancing, a light hone, and decking enough to clean up the surfaces.

I've order a ton of new parts to freshen up the block. New seals, gaskets, thermostat, water pump, belts, etc, etc... full rebuild.

I've been racking my brain about camshaft options and have called many places, including comp cams, with no success in search of custom camshafts, and or a regrind. That or they're just not interested in working with me on this one off project. I have found a few options overseas, but they do not seem to have the camshaft position sensor exciters for both cams which could cause an issue with the ECU and a constant check engine light. There are Z18XE options, but it has to be the Z18XER, A18XER or their 1.6L variants that utilize VVT with the hydraulic sprockets.

Dbilas Sport Camshafts

Piper Camshafts - Couple options

That about it really. And at $800, It's quite the gamble? Uh... go fund me account???? lol


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Time for all the 1.8ers to rally round!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Time for all the 1.8ers to rally round!


Heck, I own a screen printing shop so maybe it'll be more enticing if I created a design and some shirts. I'm thinking for the design, a 3/4 view with the hood off, fat turbo in this style...










Tagline... Moon Tune with some turbos as the "O's"? At $25 a shirt, I would need to sell about 35 to order the cams and you guys could decide which set I should spring for...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The new rod bearings came in for the forged MaXpeeding Rods connecting rods. They're Top Line. I'm not familiar with them, but have read some good reviews about them. They look like a great fit thus far, but I'm going to grab some plastigage and make sure everything is within spec before sending the rotating assembly to the machine shop for balancing. There's not many options for these engines as far as Clevitte, etc.. so stock STD size GM OEM bearings will go in place of the main bearings.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Got a lot done over the weekend. Finished porting and polishing the exhaust side of the cylinder head. Matched up the ports to the exhaust manifold.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I ordered the SuperTech SPR-MC56BE springs and they came in today. They fit the stock replacement valve seals, but the stock retainers are a no go, which I kinda knew from my measurements and their specs, but I figured it was worth a shot. So I'm going to have to order their RET-MC56/T1 titanium retainers. They should work fine since the valves are 5mm. Fingers crossed 😂


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Indiana! I'm just south of fort wayne!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Last but not least, I've found a place called, Web Cams, that does a hardweld and regrind on stock cams. You send your cams in, they weld em up, treat em, and grind them to your specs. Kicker is the price. $963, plus I would have to buy new lifters / cups which is about another $250. I'm thinking about springing for it with their reputation and trying to break some new ground here.

Now I just need to wait for the retainers to come in, then the head and block will go off to the machine shop. I'll see if my guys can flow test the heads at different lifts so I can get an idea of what lift I should go for. While everything was together, the car had a lot of mid range pull, so perhaps something with a little higher LSA would benefit the build and give it a little bit of a lope, which I would be sick!

Any cam grind suggestions (duration º, duration @ .050 and LSA) would be great if you want to play along. The build is for street and weekend warrior drag strip fun. After cylinder head decking, and block decking, the static CR will be closer to 10.75:1. I'm personally thinking something around 270+º, 230+º @.050 and a LSA of 109-111.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Indiana! I'm just south of fort wayne!


Have you heard of them? Jokers Shine?


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Nope... been kinda out of the scene for a grip. There was a ton of clubs back in the early 2000's up here, not sure about currently. I'd by a shirt that had a turbo Cruze


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

If Mantapart was still around, I bet they would have all sorts of stuff these motors. Webcams is super reputable, cant go wrong... still could be cheaper if you could find an OEM with desirable specs to drop in.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Nope... been kinda out of the scene for a grip. There was a ton of clubs back in the early 2000's up here, not sure about currently. I'd by a shirt that had a turbo Cruze


I hear that! I haven't been part of a scene since the release of the first Fast and Furious, then there was a huge police raid. Lucky I wasn't out that night. lol
Sweet! I'll work on a design and the profit will go towards mods (cam, ignition, clutch, dyno time, etc..) See if we can't set some sort of record lol.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> If Mantapart was still around, I bet they would have all sorts of stuff these motors. Webcams is super reputable, cant go wrong... still could be cheaper if you could find an OEM with desirable specs to drop in.


Give it some time. There's only so many 90's and 2000's cars, before you know it the wrecking yards, which they already are, will be filled with 2010 cars. The very undesirable 1.8, because it's NA, will be plentiful. Well, given someone can show some power potential... Cough... ZZP...BNR... wanna sponsor an ignition system...

EDIT: I was kinda expecting the price from Web. I'm sure in the future this build could be done for thousands less than all the custom order stuff I'll have to do, or make.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Tons of cobalts and ions in there now...I have no doubt you can crack 300 hp pretty readily given everything your doing. 160hp/l... is very doable these days...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Tons of cobalts and ions in there now...I have no doubt you can crack 300 hp pretty readily given everything your doing. 160hp/l... is very doable these days...


I agree x2. Limiting factor will be the intake, throttle body, and my log style manifold. It'll be fun to see what it can do with some cheap DIY parts and some home porting. That cam cost though might break the budget build aspect lol.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

You made an exhaust manifold... make an intake use a drive by wire tb from say... a v6....or bore out another 1.8l tb a few mm and make a new butterfly.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> You made an exhaust manifold... make an intake use a drive by wire tb from say... a v6....or bore out another 1.8l tb a few mm and make a new butterfly.


This is true! I’m thinking while the engine is off at the machine shop, about making an equal length manifold and an intake. I’m just wondering if the ECU will freak out without the tps and the open / closed manifold runner 🤔


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

New video! Tuning and upgrading the injectors.


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## yt400pmd (Apr 29, 2017)

have you considered this: 






LS Ignition Coil Upgrade


Hey everyone, this will be a work in progress/diary DIY. I will keep editing this first post until conclusion. I typically do my big forum posts like this, so sorry. I HOPE to at least have the proof-of-concept running/idling the car 11/18/2017. That all just really depends on the time I have...



www.sonicownersforum.com





for an ignition?


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Just leave the motor for the tb runner installed but hanging... see what all other vehicles the tps is used in. 

Cancel that.... it appears the drive by wire tb have built in tps that does not appear servicable.... I haven't had to deal with them before.

Depending on the number of pins on the tps circuits and the total maximum resistance range of the tps wipers. I would assume that gm would mostly use the same control circuit and motors to keep costs due to variation to a minimum. The tb may not be a big issue the bore for the AC delco replacement is listed @2.321" (58.95mm). That's pretty big given the displacement of the motor. The old twin cam 2.4l had 52mm tb and easily made close 300 on less than 10lbs. I'm guessing it is not really going to be a restriction until you get close to 350hp or better.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

@yt400pmd that's a good link.... will be keeping an eye on it myself. Believe we've tossed that idea around. He just might have to do it since just about all in now. I love build threads


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

yt400pmd said:


> have you considered this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice! Thank you for sharing that. I'm going to give this a whirl.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Just leave the motor for the tb runner installed but hanging... see what all other vehicles the tps is used in.
> 
> Cancel that.... it appears the drive by wire tb have built in tps that does not appear servicable.... I haven't had to deal with them before.
> 
> Depending on the number of pins on the tps circuits and the total maximum resistance range of the tps wipers. I would assume that gm would mostly use the same control circuit and motors to keep costs due to variation to a minimum. The tb may not be a big issue the bore for the AC delco replacement is listed @2.321" (58.95mm). That's pretty big given the displacement of the motor. The old twin cam 2.4l had 52mm tb and easily made close 300 on less than 10lbs. I'm guessing it is not really going to be a restriction until you get close to 350hp or better.


Thanks, I really appreciate it. Definitely something to consider. I'm going to get this thing back together with the stock intake and throttle body. Get things running well, hit the dyno, then work on upgrading the manifold / throttle body setup.

I wish I had hooked up the PCV up properly, or researched it a little more before taking these next steps so those who want to add a turbo to their car could know what to expect with similar easy to do DIY turbo manifold, and a tune. I'm still not too far off from that, with the exception of the head now being ported, and the upgrades being made to the valve train. lol

So the plan at this point is everything is going to the machine shop for a valve job (3 angle, although stock it looks like that's what it has). I've had pretty decent success with hand lapping the valves, well the intake valves. The exhaust valves could use some turning to clean them due to carbon build up. Soaking them in Chem Dip helped, but while it's apart, I'm going to do it right.

As far as the cam goes, my buddy and I are going to talk to his dude over at Craig Caulk Racing Heads, and see if he knows of anyone that does a reweld, custom grind, and recommendation for the intended use (street car, weekend warrior) weight of the car, etc. Worse case scenery, which isn't a bad thing, send them over to Web Cams for the service. I may hold on that because it'll be easy peasy to upgrade once the car is back together.

Some of the things I need to consider is upgrading the clutch which will run about $600, and upgrading my ignition. Which from that tutorial seems like about a $250 DIY upgrade.

More to come soon.


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## yt400pmd (Apr 29, 2017)

here is a couple of pics of this setup on my 1.4 i built an extra harness and i have 4 extra wires that you are welcome to if you want them.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Good news! Finally found a reputable cam regrind at a reasonable price, although turnaround time is 3 weeks. Crower Cams and they charge $220 for both cams. Once they receive the cams they'll let me know what profile they can grind into the cams.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

yt400pmd said:


> here is a couple of pics of this setup on my 1.4 i built an extra harness and i have 4 extra wires that you are welcome to if you want them.


Nice work! I appreciate it! Had I read this before I made a purchase this morning, I would have taken you up on that. I placed an order for 8 cheap Chinese coil and going to give this a try. How's the car run with this setup?


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## yt400pmd (Apr 29, 2017)

It runs well. I've only had it for about 7k miles and so far no issues. I'm not running enough boost to really know if it is making a difference. The ease and availability of swapping these out for troubleshooting makes it worth while. 
I tried running it without tuning and it will idle and rev to about 3k rpm. After 3k rpm it starts to miss


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I too was thinking about doing this but just put the MSD on my car because I wanted it back on the road... definitely a worthwhile thing to look at.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

yt400pmd said:


> It runs well. I've only had it for about 7k miles and so far no issues. I'm not running enough boost to really know if it is making a difference. The ease and availability of swapping these out for troubleshooting makes it worth while.
> I tried running it without tuning and it will idle and rev to about 3k rpm. After 3k rpm it starts to miss


Nice! I went ahead and purchased some LS1 coils, the wiring harness, plug... just need to order the pins, seals, some wire, and make a bracket. That'll come later once I get the car back together.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> I too was thinking about doing this but just put the MSD on my car because I wanted it back on the road... definitely a worthwhile thing to look at.


Had MSD put one together for a 1.8, I would have grabbed one up, but since I'm in the rebuild process, this just adds that custom touch. lol


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The latest video! You guys have the inside scoop, but here's the issues that came up with the PCV not sorted out.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> The latest video! You guys have the inside scoop, but here's the issues that came up with the PCV not sorted out.


Sounded like you were traveling through a drive by shooting for a bit there...

Since you have taken off the front fascia at least a dozen times now, any pointers on doing it? I have had mine taken off and replaced by others, but now I need to add some "stuff" that I would prefer to keep to myself.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Sounded like you were traveling through a drive by shooting for a bit there...
> 
> Since you have taken off the front fascia at least a dozen times now, any pointers on doing it? I have had mine taken off and replaced by others, but now I need to add some "stuff" that I would prefer to keep to myself.


Certainly! There's about 3-4 torques screws along the inner fender. There's a couple blue plastic holders where it meets the fender. Be careful not to lose those or break them. Might want to get a couple just incase. There are 3-4 body clips up top under the hood. The type with the plastic push pin and body. Simple to remove and are at any auto store if you lose or break any. There are 2 10mm bolts in the upper corners under the hood next to those quick clips. You'll have to remove the torqs screens and clips that attach the slash guards / aero dynamic plastic under the car as well. You don't have to completely remove them, but mine are out while I get this thing sorted out. Under the headlights there are about 4-5 plastic tabs that secure the upper right and left bumper cover. They simply snap in, but to remove them you could use / get some plastic molding removal tools. Just pry down until you see them. You might want to use a couple tools to pull the cover down so you can see them. You just need to press them down out of the slots in the bumper. At this point mine just pops off because I've removed it so many times. So once it's time to do some paint work, I'll replace the brackets that hold under the lights. Just take your time and don't force things and you'll be good.

I'll get some of this in a video and point it out once I remove the intercooler and all to clean them before it all goes back together.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Lastest video!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Happy Friday!


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Nothing like flip flops and moddin some cars!


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Certainly! There's about 3-4 torques screws along the inner fender.


Just to be that ******* (maybe it'll help if you need to google for one in the event it wanders off, because fasteners love to do that): they're called "torx".

May very well have just been autocorrect, and if so: don't mind me!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Nothing like flip flops and moddin some cars!


LOL! Especially when it's 100+º out...


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

MP81 said:


> Just to be that ***** (maybe it'll help if you need to google for one in the event it wanders off, because fasteners love to do that): they're called "torx".
> 
> May very well have just been autocorrect, and if so: don't mind me!


LOL, you're right about that torx. Nope, I just spelled it wrong.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Yeah it's been friggin hot this year... and dry. Waiting for my yard to burst into flames. LoL


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Yeah it's been friggin hot this year... and dry. Waiting for my yard to burst into flames. LoL


LOL! Need a fire extinguisher just for the yard (goes to turn on water hose... no water)...


----------



## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Valve spring and retainer solution for our 1.8L's!


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

First 200mph cruze.... 
Loading...
Loading...
Loading...

Keep up the good work man!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> First 200mph cruze....
> Loading...
> Loading...
> Loading...
> ...


Hahaha, Thank you!!!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Another piece of the puzzle! 215mm aluminum flywheel. Now I just need to get a clutch to hold the power. I'm looking into a KY 6 puck clutch.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Valve spring and retainer solution for our 1.8L's!


This is coming along nicely. Not that you need to tell, but are you keeping track of the costs? Someone in the future may want to know.

I may be wrong, but my whole life, it was deck the block and shave the head.

I can't wait for the finish!


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Definently agree! Exciting stuff!


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## yt400pmd (Apr 29, 2017)

Crewz said:


> Another piece of the puzzle! 215mm aluminum flywheel. Now I just need to get a clutch to hold the power. I'm looking into a KY 6 puck clutch.
> View attachment 288130


Where did you source these

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> This is coming along nicely. Not that you need to tell, but are you keeping track of the costs? Someone in the future may want to know.
> 
> I may be wrong, but my whole life, it was deck the block and shave the head.
> 
> I can't wait for the finish!


Thank you. Down to the penny, and I wish I wasn't, lol. By the time it's all said and done, it'll be around $3,500 which in my opinion isn't a whole lot. I've spent $7-8k on past projects (V8's) that were 425 hp motors at the flywheel. Below is what I'm gunning for...

It just really depends on what the parts need. I messed up and tried "machining" the head by using the backwoods method of a thick piece of glass and 200 grit sand paper to clean it up. Well... I took enough material off of the head to realize I should let the pros look at it. So they had to machine .006 just to clean up my mess up. Was trying to keep things budget friendly for the DIYer. Long story short, let a machine shop tell you what it needs. The deck of the block is flat and just needs a little cleaning. Something to note as well is there is a oil pressure regulator just below the deck that's not replaceable and if it get messed up, you have to replace the block.

You and me both! So much so, I thought about skimping on a couple things, but that just won't do for the goals I have in mind.



-loki- said:


> Definently agree! Exciting stuff!


Thanks! I'm trying to be patient, lol, but the next things I'm getting done will be well worth it for the peace of mind.



yt400pmd said:


> Where did you source these
> 
> Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


I got the flywheel from ZZP. Mainly just to talk to them on the phone and let them know I'm coming for them. lol


*Project Update:*

It may be apparent at this point, I'm going all out (SEND IT!!!), but I want to fill you guys in on where my head is at with the car at this point. As I mentioned above, I purchased an aluminum flywheel (huge difference in weight by the way) and I'm getting a clutch from KY to hold my power goals. I'm trying to swing as much business to the smaller shops as possible.

ZZP recently posted a video of a world record run of their 12.9 1/4 mile run in a Sonic 1.4t that has every bolt on they carry as well as a Stage 1 cam which they're making available in the near future. All fine and dandy but this is a 1.8 build. That video definitely inspired me to... well beat their record. When I placed my order for the flywheel, I needed to call to make sure I was getting the proper size flywheel. They also had some notes mentioning that the single mass flywheel will create some gear noise as well as chatter so I wanted to know whether it'll be something I can live with.

Tyler answered the phone. I congratulated them on their world record run, and asked what they all had done. I asked what the Cruze 1/4 record is. He told me he doesn't know and that they lump the Sonic and Cruze in the same category...??? So I told him I'm gunning to beat their record with my 1.8 build lol. Little friendly competition from an unknown... he didn't find it very funny.

What I do know is their Sonic is making 290whp and they were trying to get their Sonic in the 12s with their V3 turbo. All part of marketing efforts obviously. Now that they accomplished that goal, they stepping it up to an aftermarket manifold and a larger turbo from my understanding.

My goal is to beat their record and get the car closer to the 400whp mark. I ideally 450whp, butttt.... well see. I would be happy with 350whp, but in order to beat their record and hold it for a while, I'll have to take advantage of having the extra .4 liters towards where they'll have to either ditch their efforts at making their 1.4s any faster and start developing things for the 1.8. All good news for you 1.8 guys/gals.

Am I being too ambitious? LOL


*How Will I Accomplish This?*

As you very well may know, at this point the head is port and polished, found valve springs and retainers to keep valve float at bay, the T04E turbo can support up to a claim 420hp (more than likely flywheel hp figures?), full 2.5 DIY down pipe and exhaust with a high flow cat, straight through muffler, etc. I'm going to have to rethink a few things to obtain my goal.

_Manifold_. I'm ditching my beloved log style manifold for a couple reasons. I don't believe it will support my hp goals, and there was a stress crack by the turbo because it's supporting the weight of the turbo, and the front of the exhaust system. So I'm going to fabricate a long tube equal length design that not only will help with scavenging but will also allow me to bolt the manifold to the stock catalytic support on the block. That'll help support the system and should flow well enough for my goals.

_Ignition_. I already have all the parts I need for a LS2/LS7 upgrade. I went with the D585 coils (because the data is easily accessible to plug into HP Tuners), purchased a harness / connector and I'm designing a bracket to mount the coils. Since the 1.8 valve cover is so different than the 1.4, I having to design it from scratch... I'm thinking the best solution will be to mount them where the stock plastic cover will be in order to leave room to top off the oil, and not get everything too close to the exhaust side of the cylinder head. Here is what I have so far. I still need to mock everything up before I send the design out to be laser cut. It still needs more tweaking but it's getting there.











_Pistons._ I was going to run the stock pistons with the rings gapped for boost. That, IMO, would work just fine and dandy granted I don't run into any knock. There's plenty of guys out there run Big BANG LS engines on the stock bottom end with just ring gap. What kills pistons is lack of ring gap and detonation. I would be comfortable with that around 250hp, BUT I'm aiming for the moon here. Yesterday I sent off one of the stock pistons to JE Pistons for a full custom set of forged pistons. Here goes the patience part... It'll take up to a month for them to make a set and they'll run $150 piston. I definitely wanted peace of mind pushing this motor to the limit.

The stock 1.4 CR is 9.5:1 and the 1.8 is 10.5:1... How do you get more power? More compression!!! I'm going to keep the motor at the 10.5:1 ratio, or try to. I need to go back and check to make sure the MaXpeedingRods connecting rods I have are indeed the same length. When I measured them, they did seem to be a few thousands shorter which would put the piston down in the hole more, therefor lowering compression. The head was also decked .006, so I have some homework to do in the sense that I need to cc the combustion chamber, see how far down in the hole the piston will be with the new rods, what the compressed thickness of the gasket is, as well as the bore size of the piston to know where I'm at.

Unless I change my mind, looks like the car will stay running on e85 to keep detonation at bay which is no big deal because there are plenty of stations around with e85 here in Houston.

_Camshafts_. I sent my cams to Delta Cams, with bad news... they told me they couldn't weld on the cams because they're hollow cams, which I knew (it's also a benefit to an extent, less rotating weight) and they couldn't grind anything into them because and I quote "there's not enough shim in the world to keep the lifters from rattling"... lol (I disagree). I'm sure Ken and John over there are just slammed and they're just not willing to take on something new. They didn't seem interested in taking on these cams and were kinda grumpy, but I'm not taking _NO_ for an answer... 

Before I sent the cams to Delta, I called CompCams (they didn't want to fool with it either) and Crower. I really wanted to send my business to a smaller shop, but... I'm really impressed with the guys over at Crower. They have been super friendly and helpful. IMO, part of the reason why is the size of their operation. They have enough machines, and staff towards where they're not overwhelmed. I brought up all of the concerns the guys at Delta had. The crew at Crower told me if anything, because they are hollow, they'll at least be able to grind their Stage 1 grind into them. At this moment, I'm waiting on my cams to come back from Delta, and I have to send them to Crower. It took Delta, after at least 4 phones to even open my package and tell me no. Let's just say 2-3 weeks time invested in shipping them back and forth, and giving them a little push to give me answer. I may just have to go to the scrap yard and pull a couple cams to send off because Crowers turnaround time is 1 month.

Fasteners. I had ARP send over a couple studs. The one I'm going with is 11mm vs the stock 10mm, and the block will require machining but we felt it'll give the build the best chance at surviving the power goals and up to 25lbs of BOOST! I also cross referenced the stock main cap bolts, and ordered some from ARP which are on their way. IMO, the weakest part of the 1.8 will be the 2 bolt main caps and I'll be pushing the limit of what they can hold. Any more power than my goals will more than likely need some custom splayed 4 bolt main caps.

That's all I got for now, but I would love to hear your feedback and get your help if there's anything else you can think of to achieve these goals.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Boy, when you get an idea, you seem to run full speed ahead with it. I wish I was of the age and means to do that now. I have way too many projects competing for my time.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Boy, when you get an idea, you seem to run full speed ahead with it. I wish I was of the age and means to do that now. I have way too many projects competing for my time.


You can say that again. There's something really fulfilling about these kind of projects. The challenge, the research, learning, the failures, and to the best of my abilities, pulling off an end goal. It's fun learning from everyone as well. For example, I would have never thought about the LS upgrade. So many little projects and not so little...the manifold, springs, cam, pistons, rods, tuning, etc.

I know exactly what you mean. I'm trying not to stretch myself too thin, which is why I don't mind the pistons, and cams taking some time because it'll give me time to kinda "find time" for each project at a time.

I own a small screen printing business, in which I have vlog and do tutorials... similar to the videos I have been creating about this build. Heck, even that takes up some time, but it's a fun creative process.

Mikey Designs & Silk Screen - YouTubewww.youtube.com › channel

Part of me would really love to make a living doing projects like these for a living. Just doing what I enjoy. Whether it be about art, cars, music (I've been playing music semi professionally since '06). Having multiple interested keeps me from getting burned out from doing the same old same old...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The LS coil upgrade underway!


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## yt400pmd (Apr 29, 2017)

you are doing great! i really like the attention to detail that you are giving this.
have you thought about raising the coils up via some sort of bracket to reduce the angle of the plug wires? i moved my coils toward the firewall to reduce the angle on the wires on the 1.4.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

yt400pmd said:


> you are doing great! i really like the attention to detail that you are giving this.
> have you thought about raising the coils up via some sort of bracket to reduce the angle of the plug wires? i moved my coils toward the firewall to reduce the angle on the wires on the 1.4.


Thanks! I appreciate it. I’ve thought about it and I’m going to play around with the positioning some more. I plan to get some spacers to get the coils up off the cover I’ll make and see if shifting them will help. I may even have the wiring tuck under the cover I make if I can get away with finding a solution to keep the wires from melting.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Thanks! I appreciate it. I’ve thought about it and I’m going to play around with the positioning some more. I plan to get some spacers to get the coils up off the cover I’ll make and see if shifting them will help. I may even have the wiring tuck under the cover I make if I can get away with finding a solution to keep the wires from melting.


What about a little bit longer coil wires?

I also just ran across a very old post speaking to 1.6 rods and pistons, not much there but a spec for stock.









any one can tell me forged piston and conrod for 1.6t?


which brand made for cruze 1.6t? where can i orde? any website? thanks..




www.cruzetalk.com


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Both Spec and ClutchMasters sell aluminum flywheels. Just beware light weight flywheels and 6 puck clutches are lots of fun in traffic...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> What about a little bit longer coil wires?
> 
> I also just ran across a very old post speaking to 1.6 rods and pistons, not much there but a spec for stock.
> 
> ...


I think I'll try lifting them up some and see how that works. I've seen how BNR does theirs and I'm not a fan of how the oil filler cap is somewhat covered on their 1.8 LS conversion.

Nice! I have one of my stock pistons at JE Pistons and they're going to make a set based off of the piston and my CR requirements. I should hear back from them any day now to go over the design.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Both Spec and ClutchMasters sell aluminum flywheels. Just beware light weight flywheels and 6 puck clutches are lots of fun in traffic...


 You're right about that. I don't find myself sitting in traffic too much these days. Maybe 2-3 a month if I hit rush hour in Houston, but for the most part, because I work for myself, I've set my schedule to avoid it. lol


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Some exciting stuff coming soon! The manifold flange I designed and the coil mount for the LS upgrade are being water jetted out by a fellow 1.8 enthusiastalmost, pistons are being CNC'd by JE Pistons, in which I'm getting their piston rings that are good for boost to go along with them... still waiting to hear what can be done with the cams, but they're at Crower and I expect to hear something Monday.

I'm debating about going a different direction with the turbo size. I may upgrade to a GT3076r with an external waste gate in which exhaust will need to be sized up to 3". Apparently 350whp has been done, so I'm shooting for 400+. To support the upgrades I'll need to get some 160# injectors and an upgraded fuel pump.

More coming soon.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

160#'s!!!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> 160#'s!!!


 Having this down time while waiting on the cams and pistons... I found some injectors that will be more suitable for the build. 1400cc 133lb fit Siemens Deka. These will drop right in place of the current 60lbers I have and will give me a better chance at dialing in a nice idle without a boost reference pressure regulator. The plus side as well is they start at $200 a set vs $350.









1400cc 133lb fit Siemens Deka for sale | eBay


Get the best deals for 1400cc 133lb fit Siemens Deka at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!



ebay.to


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Did the 1.8 come with the 60#ers? I know ZZP was selling them, but I don't recall you mentioning them before. This is going to get interesting here.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Did the 1.8 come with the 60#ers? I know ZZP was selling them, but I don't recall you mentioning them before. This is going to get interesting here.


The 1.8 comes with around 33-35# injectors. During the course of the build, I upgraded to the 60# injectors, which worked great for the previous setup. The 60#'s are rated up to 250whp with E85 and 300whp on pump gas. Since I'm chasing 400+whp (dare I say 500whp?) on E85 I will need to dump a lot more fuel into the engine.

Definitely going to get interesting! The down time for JE Pistons to do their job, and Crower has left a lot of time on the table to think. Probably too much lol...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> The 1.8 comes with around 33-35# injectors. During the course of the build, I upgraded to the 60# injectors, which worked great for the previous setup. The 60#'s are rated up to 250whp with E85 and 300whp on pump gas. Since I'm chasing 400+whp (dare I say 500whp?) on E85 I will need to dump a lot more fuel into the engine.
> 
> Definitely going to get interesting! The down time for JE Pistons to do their job, and Crower has left a lot of time on the table to think. Probably too much lol...


I knew I should have waited to buy my 60#ers. I could've bought yours. I get ahead of my self when it comes to parts. I bought a catback exhaust two years ago or so and am just now getting ready to put it on.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I knew I should have waited to buy my 60#ers. I could've bought yours. I get ahead of my self when it comes to parts. I bought a catback exhaust two years ago or so and am just now getting ready to put it on.


 The bright side is they'll be affordable for another person that might be tight on cash, or you could return yours


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Crower finally get back to me! The stock cam specs are:
Intake - 205º @ .050 and .393" lift.
Exhaust - 196º @ .050 and .353" lift.

Shane said they can grind in... .015" more lift and the following durations which he said should really wake them up.
Intake - 216º @ .050 and .408" lift.
Exhaust - 212º @ .050 and .368" lift.

Only issue is the exhaust camshaft arrived with one of the position sensor exciter broken off and they can't weld the tooth / notch back on because even if it's off by a thousandth, the timing would be off and it could throw a code.

Good news though, I found a new GM replacement exhaust camshaft which I'm having sent directly to them. Once that arrives, sometime next week, it'll be another 2 weeks turnaround time for them to grind the camshafts.

For those of you wondering, the cams on the 1.8 are flat tappet hydraulic camshafts. Kinda old school if you ask me, lol, but this is a platform that has worked for GM / Opel for decades now.

Progress!!!... slowly but surely.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I'm really happy with how this is turning out!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

That plate and standoffs are calling out for some powdercoat!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I know you have already picked the turbo, but I just ran across this resource:









Garrett Performance Turbo


How to choose a turbo starts with two main inputs. What is your target crank horsepower? What is your engine displacement? Every turbo has a range for




www.garrettmotion.com


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> That plate and standoffs are calling out for some powdercoat!


I think so too! But part me also likes the look of the raw stainless... perhaps at least a clear coat. What color would you go with if you did? Red? Black?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I know you have already picked the turbo, but I just ran across this resource:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very cool. Thanks for sharing! Very smart on Garrett's part. I went through and punched in, essentially what I'm trying to do at minimum. The GT2871r, and GT30 is what they recommended for the 1.8. I had actually considered getting the GT30 Maxpeedingrods variant, which they have a couple that I highly considered. These definitely would be a benefit through the horsepower and torque curve.

What made me pull the trigger on the bigger Maxpeedingrods GT3582 was it suits my hp goals, and lots of guys have run them on 1.6 and 1.8 platforms for years without issues, even without the coolant lines hooked up.

There's also a little bit of method to the madness. The M32 gearbox / manual trans is rated to 240 ft lbs. The GT3582 won't really kick in until the engine has passed it's peak torque curve. To keep the transmission and bottom end alive, I would like the power to come on after it's peak torque. Torque tends to be what kills motors, and not rpm and hp.

I've seen a particular car (Corsa) that made over 600hp to the flywheel in the Z18XE variant of the 2H0, and his crank came apart. With it being uncharted territory, I'm a little weary of pushing it past 500hp without it coming apart lol.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> I think so too! But part me also likes the look of the raw stainless... perhaps at least a clear coat. What color would you go with if you did? Red? Black?


Not really sure, but off the top of my head, you have red and black, maybe a bit of yellow to pop it.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Not really sure, but off the top of my head, you have red and black, maybe a bit of yellow to pop it.


Sounds like a job for Photoshop to see what different colors would look like


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Hey man I know youre probably going a different route with water to air but I just got the A16LET intake installed. Had to drill and tap the head and will have to reroute some wiring near the throttle body, but turned out nicely and if my fab guy frees up, car should be under boost not too long for now.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

F18D4T said:


> Hey man I know youre probably going a different route with water to air but I just got the A16LET intake installed.


The what? Post a link.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Hey man I know youre probably going a different route with water to air but I just got the A16LET intake installed. Had to drill and tap the head and will have to reroute some wiring near the throttle body, but turned out nicely and if my fab guy frees up, car should be under boost not too long for now.
> View attachment 289018
> View attachment 289020


I've considered it! Just waiting for one of you guys to completely install one, lol. Let me know how the relocation of the throttle body goes and if there's any issues with bolting it up. Also, does the fuel rail install okay, etc...

Did you get any pictures of the ports? I know it's the A16LET is the same engine, different internals, but compared to the 1.8, do you see any choke points, or in other words, does it look like a better flowing manifold? What is the plan with the Variable Intake solenoid? Turn it off?

I was thinking air to water because of it being more of a straight shot, and keeping things more consistent. It get's 110º+ here in Houston and really makes the AIT's high, which kinda is no bueno for the air to air cooling. I'm not 100% set on it though.



Blasirl said:


> The what? Post a link.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> I've considered it! Just waiting for one of you guys to completely install one, lol. Let me know how the relocation of the throttle body goes and if there's any issues with bolting it up. Also, does the fuel rail install okay, etc...
> 
> Did you get any pictures of the ports? I know it's the A16LET is the same engine, different internals, but compared to the 1.8, do you see any choke points, or in other words, does it look like a better flowing manifold? What is the plan with the Variable Intake solenoid? Turn it off?
> 
> I was thinking air to water because of it being more of a straight shot, and keeping things more consistent. It get's 110º+ here in Houston and really makes the AIT's high, which kinda is no bueno for the air to air cooling. I'm not 100% set on it though.


I'll list the tricky stuff of the install first because its' probably the info you're after...

There is no MAP sensor port on this manifold as the A16LET has it located on the charge pipe I believe. There are 2 vacuum ports on the left hand side of the manifold which I just drilled out to suit the MAP sensor and tapped the hole for the bolt to hold it into place









I had to use the A16LET throttle body as the F18D4 has an offset bolt spacing whereas the A16LET throttle/manifold are a square configuration. The A16LET throttle also does not have the stupid throttle body heater passages, which I have temporarily rerouted and will use for the turbo coolant feed/drain. I just opened the wiring harness plastic cover and separated the throttle wiring to made it exit the other side, no soldering and no wires snaking all over the place. I removed all the harness brackets etc. and the intake piping will nicely squeeze past 









I had to hack the cam bank 1 sensor which you cant really see because the throttle blocks it as it protrudes into where the throttle body would sit. I just carefully cut away the connector plastic with a dremel to expose the bare pins and bent them upwards then soldered them permanently to the wiring harness. I could have bought an A16LET cam position sensor as its' a right angled connector but I wanted to get it done so I could drive the car again lol.

The hardest and scariest part was drilling and tapping the head, I managed to do it whilst it was still in the engine aby/block but it would have been much much easier to do if the head was out of the engine bay. The middle 2 top bolt holes are very close to the water jacket (I found this out the hard way) and you may have to seal them with RTV if you go through as I did haha. I used 150mm M8x1.25 bolts to secure the intake for the long bolts and the stock ones for the 3 short holes.

I have a A16LET fuel rail on the way but it was pretty easy to make a bracket to attach the F18D4 fuel rail until I get it.

I didnt get any pictures of the ports but they have HEAPS of room for porting and it looks like it flows much better than the stock intake. I just turned off the variable intake runner DTCs by setting them to no error then making my VE tables all the same. This should make my tuning life much easier as I wont have to tune for open/closed separately. The brake vacuum line directly plugs into the manifold, evap I'll have to route to the intake when its done.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Looks like a very clean install, and thank you for the write up!

The 1.6 and 1.4 do have the MAP port on the charge pipe, but looks like a really nice solution you came up with. Do you recall if the installed height of the injectors, as well as the bore of the injector seat is the same as the stock 1.8? Looks like the 1.6 intake has two ports for coolant? Which are capped off on your install? Only real difference I see between yours and mine is it came with a flex fuel sensor? Or do your vehicles come with that as a standard option?

Lastly, I see you have a hose going to a catch can for the PCV. Where is the other end going? Back into the throttle body? Is there a PCV port in the A16LET throttle body? Any size difference between the two throttle bodies? (please tell me the A16LET is larger lol)

I appreciate it!


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Looks like a very clean install, and thank you for the write up!
> 
> The 1.6 and 1.4 do have the MAP port on the charge pipe, but looks like a really nice solution you came up with. Do you recall if the installed height of the injectors, as well as the bore of the injector seat is the same as the stock 1.8? Looks like the 1.6 intake has two ports for coolant? Which are capped off on your install? Only real difference I see between yours and mine is it came with a flex fuel sensor? Or do your vehicles come with that as a standard option?
> 
> ...


As far as I can tell both use Siemens Deka injectors and they sit exactly the same in the manifolds. The fuel rail I bought comes with the injectors so I'll compare them with my stock injectors to confirm that theyre the same dimensions. 

Theyre definitely not coolant ports haha, they would feed straight into the intake ports! One of them is for PCV, which has a one way valve in the pipe also teeing to the airbox I think, the other I have no idea what its' used for. Currently the outlet of the catch can is just vented to atmosphere but I plan on routing it to the intake once thats all done. Venting to atmosphere resulted in heaps of water/condensation buildup in my can so I wouldnt suggest doing that long term. I'm routing it to the airbox as it will only ever be in vacuum, anywhere that sees boost will require those 1 way valves which I dont want to do for simplicity's' sake.

Mine didnt come with a flex sensor, thats another mod I had previously completed. I have the E78 ECU, which allows you to pin and simply turn it on in the tune definitely something I would recommend you do! Its' quite easy providing your ECU supports it.

The throttle body does not have a PCV port, or any other ports for that matter which is quite handy as its' a tight fit. I think they're both the same size 63mm/2.5".


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> As far as I can tell both use Siemens Deka injectors and they sit exactly the same in the manifolds. The fuel rail I bought comes with the injectors so I'll compare them with my stock injectors to confirm that theyre the same dimensions.
> 
> Theyre definitely not coolant ports haha, they would feed straight into the intake ports! One of them is for PCV, which has a one way valve in the pipe also teeing to the airbox I think, the other I have no idea what its' used for. Currently the outlet of the catch can is just vented to atmosphere but I plan on routing it to the intake once thats all done. Venting to atmosphere resulted in heaps of water/condensation buildup in my can so I wouldnt suggest doing that long term. I'm routing it to the airbox as it will only ever be in vacuum, anywhere that sees boost will require those 1 way valves which I dont want to do for simplicity's' sake.
> 
> ...


Cool! It would be interesting to see and know what it would take to interchange wise.

LOL, that's would be no good. Wont run on coolant haha. Be sure to install a one way check valve so you're not boosting the case. That was an issue I didn't foresee happening because I figured the PCV would close shut under positive pressure, that's not the case. It just regulates the amount of flow depending on the amount of vacuum being pulled.

Nice! Off the top of my head, I can't recall the ECU mine has, but 78 sounds familiar. I has all the settings for flex fuel, minus the actual hardware. It's my understanding that they made the 12+ Cruzes E85 capable but only made that available for certain countries. I plan to solely run the car on e85 cause My compression ratio will still be in the 10.5:1 range to produce more power under boost. Plenty of pumps around Houston with corn.

Nice. Good to know. I've been doing some research and it looks like a lot of GM throttle bodies in the 60-65mm range flow around 450-550 cfm, depending on the size of the shaft of the throttle body being a restriction. So we should be good for up to 600hp before it because a restriction.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Fix the front bumper while I'm waiting on parts... What do you guys think of the fresh new look?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Fix the front bumper while I'm waiting on parts... What do you guys think of the fresh new look?


For those of you who are afraid of painting / bodywork etc...
*Painted to Match, Front Bumper Cover Fascia for 2011-2014 RS

EDIT: Try this instead:



https://www.amazon.com/MBI-AUTO-Painted-Bumper-GM1000924/dp/B076MPSS1S


*


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Fix the front bumper while I'm waiting on parts... What do you guys think of the fresh new look?


Your air compressor sounds like it is playing the spoons...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> For those of you who are afraid of painting / bodywork etc...
> *Painted to Match, Front Bumper Cover Fascia for 2011-2014 RS*


The link is broken?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Your air compressor sounds like it is playing the spoons...


LOL, if I were to do it again, I wouldn't get an Ingersol. So noisy, and when I got it, I had some many issues. Took 2 months to put it to work. But it does the job for my line of work and it's nice having the compressor for whatever.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> The link is broken?





https://www.amazon.com/MBI-AUTO-Painted-Bumper-GM1000924/dp/B076MPSS1S


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Coming along good man


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> For those of you who are afraid of painting / bodywork etc...
> *Painted to Match, Front Bumper Cover Fascia for 2011-2014 RS
> 
> EDIT: Try this instead:
> ...


Nice!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

-loki- said:


> Coming along good man


Thanks bro!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Update:

CC'd the heads. Came out to 49cc's.





Started working on finishing up the LS coil conversion to realize that my 7 pin connector didn't come with, nor is the seal retainer included. That should be here on the 28th, but I'm going to proceed with doing the wiring.

















Got ahold of Crower this week. Cams were set to ship on 10/21, so those should be in soon. JE is waiting on back ordered piston rings. Shouldn't be much longer before it's go time.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Another little project taken care of. Rebuilding the oil pump. I created a thread to make it easier to find HERE.

Now that they have stopped making the 1.8, and the Chevy Cruze all together, I'm sure the subject of how to rebuild the oil pump will come up during a full rebuild.

A new pump costs $300 Amazon.com: EMIAOTO Engine Oil Pump for Chevy Cruze Sonic Aveo Epica Opel 1.6L 1.8L 55565003 25195117 25190865: Automotive BUT here are the parts to do it for around $50
Oil Pump Gears - 2008-2018 GM Engine Oil Pump Rotor 93185662 | GM Parts Online
Relief Spring 1 - Spring 55352597 | GM Parts Online
Relief Spring 2 - Spring 24405909 | GM Parts Online
Oil Check Plug - Plug 11099272 | GM Parts Online

While you are at it, you might as well get the oil pump screen, --- 2009-2018 GM Oil Pick-Up 55353334 | GM Parts Online --- which I didn't cover in the video because I'm in the process of building my eying for boost (thread here), and I will be covering the oil pan mods for an oil return from the turbo.

Depending on the condition of the relief valve, piston, whatever you want to call them, you may need to refer to a diagram for those part numbers as mine didn't really need them even with 120k miles on the odometer.






A better photo of how the pump looks disassembled. It's pretty easy and straight forward. Most of the parts will only go in one way, but pay attention to the video as the larger pump gear / rotor does have a bevel and that faces towards the pump housing.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Another upgrade for the project!


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Coming together man! I think one problem with your last MAF setup is that it was too close to the turbo, would be very messy air. That IC is a huge improvement over your last one, would be nice to know the IAT difference. Car is going in on thursday to have all the fab work done, so ill hopefully join the turbo squad soon!


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## CCruze14 (Jun 11, 2020)

F18D4T said:


> would be very messy air


Maybe a diffuser would solve that problem? The turbulence coming out of the compressor would definitely screw with a MAF sensor. The diffuser would certainly restrict flow and decrease effective boost but it would smooth out the airflow.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

CCruze14 said:


> Maybe a diffuser would solve that problem?


Yeah, looks like he's going to use something to fix the turbulence in his next iteration


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Coming together man! I think one problem with your last MAF setup is that it was too close to the turbo, would be very messy air. That IC is a huge improvement over your last one, would be nice to know the IAT difference. Car is going in on thursday to have all the fab work done, so ill hopefully join the turbo squad soon!


Thanks!!! I absolutely agree. Its' definitely been a learning experience. With intake the stock diameter, with the airflow straighter, and more length behind the MAF, should make for an easy MAF tune.
That's awesome! Post some pictures here. Would love to see it! What turbo are you going with?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

CCruze14 said:


> Maybe a diffuser would solve that problem? The turbulence coming out of the compressor would definitely screw with a MAF sensor. The diffuser would certainly restrict flow and decrease effective boost but it would smooth out the airflow.


I got an airflow straighter, which really shouldn't restrict it much. I'll continue to adjust a few things as I get it closer to peaking out the power, and making little mods to squeeze out every ounce of power.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The cams are in!


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Thanks!!! I absolutely agree. Its' definitely been a learning experience. With intake the stock diameter, with the airflow straighter, and more length behind the MAF, should make for an easy MAF tune.
> That's awesome! Post some pictures here. Would love to see it! What turbo are you going with?


Im going with a Garrett GT2560R, should make nice responsive power and if I ever decide I want more I can swap it with a 2860RS. Manifold was completed today, I'm really excited to see the restr of the work once its complete


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Sorry to hijack your thread, but heres some more progress on mine. Thought you might wanna see


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Nice manifold, did you build it?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Sorry to hijack your thread, but heres some more progress on mine. Thought you might wanna see
> View attachment 289492
> View attachment 289493


LOL! No worries. Feel free to share photos here. The more the merrier cause there's so many ways to go about it. LOOKING AWESOM! I'm jealous. JE Pistons, said they should be ready by Thanksgiving. I'm not sure if that's a "we'll ship them, or you'll get them before thanksgiving". Hopefully before so I can take the holiday weekend to build the motor and start the manifold.

My only piece of advice and I would make some sort of bracket to bolt to the engine block where the cat / manifold originally bolted to. It'll help support the manifold and turbo. Mine started to crack because there's so much weight being held up. Between the turbo, downpipes, plumbing, feed / drain lines, and 1/3 of the exhaust up until the cross brace under the car.

Seriously, keep the pictures coming.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Taxman said:


> Nice manifold, did you build it?


No, I wish I had the skills to make stuff like that. I got a pro to do it 



Crewz said:


> LOL! No worries. Feel free to share photos here.


No worries, I'll keep you updated on my build  Wow the pistons are soooo close. Im loving how youre going into such depth in the build like cams etc, the thing is going to be a monster when its finished!
Regarding bracing the manifold, my fab guy reckons its' a bad idea as many SR20s amongst other things with premade kits hes' worked on have cracked due to them not allowing even expansion of the manifold, putting pressure on certain parts. its' made of sch.40 tube as well, so plenty of strength. The exhaust will have extra bracing though and a flex join of course


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> No, I wish I had the skills to make stuff like that. I got a pro to do it
> 
> Hahaha, I hear that. I'm no pro by any means, but I just do my best.
> 
> ...



Sounds good. Wont be much longer on the pistons. Can't wait to get them in so it can go together. I talked to JE and they said they said they should be out before Thanksgiving... so I'll call today at some point and see where we're at. Which reminds me, I still need to get the larger ARP head studs on order. I had my machinist machine the stud holes out to 11mm, from 10mm.

She should be a real beast. I'll have to put some miles on her NA to keep tuning easy, to break the engine and clutch in. After 500 miles, the real fun will begin.

That makes sense. I might try some elongated holes on mine to allow for expansion. I bought a tig welder so I can fabricate mine. I don't want someone else having all the fun. lol. Only other real update is I bought a set of 114# 1200cc injectors, and sent my fuel pump out to Deatsche works to have a larger pump installed and tested.

I'll have more soon and keep those updates coming.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Sounds good. Wont be much longer on the pistons. Can't wait to get them in so it can go together. I talked to JE and they said they said they should be out before Thanksgiving... so I'll call today at some point and see where we're at. Which reminds me, I still need to get the larger ARP head studs on order. I had my machinist machine the stud holes out to 11mm, from 10mm.
> 
> She should be a real beast. I'll have to put some miles on her NA to keep tuning easy, to break the engine and clutch in. After 500 miles, the real fun will begin.
> 
> ...


I've been looking at fuel pump options, I shouldn't need one while I'm low boost but keen to seer what you come up with. ZZP sells a venturi adapter for normal intank pumps was considering the walbro 255.

I think it may be done this week, fab guy just got a bunch of new tools so he can get back to work on the last bits  basically exhaust and oil dipstick modification thats left, and some ic piping/compressor housing powder coating

Also looking into relocating the IAT sensor into the ic piping post intercooler near the throttle for more accuracy.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

So a little update, all intercooler piping and heater hose modifications are complete... AND powdercoated black along with the compressor housing. IMO it looks great. All thats left is somehow relocating the dipstick and the exhaust.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Looking really good! You should be good for up to 300whp on pump gas and 250 on e85 with the stock pump... but why stop there? lol

It's hard to tell from the photos, but on mine I just bent the bracket and it stayed in the stock location.

Any plans to wrap the exhaust side of the turbo? As good as the fabrication looks, I wouldn't want to cover it up, but the both myself and another big turbo 1.4 owner had the same issue with the turbo melting the cam cover. Mine was fine until I really started hammering on the boost often.

What have you guys come up with for the PCV? (Edit... I see what you did with the catch can and venting to atmosphere? Keep the posts coming)


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Yeah my dipstick going to be a little tricky as my wastegate actuator (turbosmart aftermarket) is in the way, I'm sure we'll come up with something. Im thinking of making an aluminum shield above the manifold /back of turbo, putting a turbo beanie on the turbine housing and also have a metal valve cover if that fails. PCV will eventually be connected to the intake so suck out that nasty air.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Just a quick update on my build...

Still waiting on JE Pistons. Last time we talked, about 3 weeks ago, they said they should have the pistons out before Thanksgiving. Haven't heard anything from the machine shop so...

On the bright side, I purchase a tig welder to fabricate the turbo manifold, exhaust, and intercooler piping / intake. I have some welding coupons on the way so I can get plenty of practice in before moving onto fabricating.

The 114# 1200cc injectors are in. I'll post more about that once I get around to that boost level. They're good for up to 600hp. I've been putting in my homework time to tune for those.

Speaking of tuning, I reached out to ZZP to see if they would be interested in helping with the tune, but they probably know as much as I do and didn't want to take it on. Even if I were in MI, on their dyno, they're still not sure how to go about tuning the 1.8. So I'll just keep on keeping on.

On the tuning side of things, I found cool little product called a WOT Box, which essentially kills the ignition at a certain RPM to help build boost from a dig and allow no lift shifts whilst keeping the boost built. Just thinking ahead because GM's Cruze ECU doesn't have parameters to tune for launch control.

Last but not least, I purchased some solid transmission mounts, front and rear, that are CNC'd out of solid aluminum, and a short throw shifter. An actual shifter, and not the L bar type that bolts onto the transmission. Although... I'm wondering if adding that as well might make for a SUPER short shift? 

More to come soon... Trying to be patient over here waiting on those pistons.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Can't wait to see how you go welding, I had a crack at TIGging my own manifold before I went the route I'm on now and its quite tricky to get the metal to not warp. You're going to have to clamp/bolt the flange on something really solid or it'll go banana shaped like mine did on the last runner lol. Really interested to see how that WOT box works too. My car just got finished at the workshop, I just have to go pick it up  will update when I have it, hopefully a day or two


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

F18D4T said:


> No, I wish I had the skills to make stuff like that. I got a pro to do it
> 
> 
> No worries, I'll keep you updated on my build  Wow the pistons are soooo close. Im loving how youre going into such depth in the build like cams etc, the thing is going to be a monster when its finished!
> Regarding bracing the manifold, my fab guy reckons its' a bad idea as many SR20s amongst other things with premade kits hes' worked on have cracked due to them not allowing even expansion of the manifold, putting pressure on certain parts. its' made of sch.40 tube as well, so plenty of strength. The exhaust will have extra bracing though and a flex join of course


I would still consider something that may not be bolted, but at least be there when it flexes so as to keep it from going too far. Sort of like a jack stand but permanently mounted to the structure near the manifold and barely near the manifold.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Looking really good! You should be good for up to 300whp on pump gas and 250 on e85 with the stock pump... but why stop there? lol
> 
> It's hard to tell from the photos, but on mine I just bent the bracket and it stayed in the stock location.
> 
> ...


I just got my exhaust wrap in the mail. Waiting on the SS zip ties and tool now.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Received my car today, making all the right noises just need to make my turbo coolant lines before I can run it long enough to properly tune it! Hit [email protected] 3.5k rpm so hoping once I can rev it out it holds around there or I fear the stock internals won’t hold.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Can't wait to see how you go welding, I had a crack at TIGging my own manifold before I went the route I'm on now and its quite tricky to get the metal to not warp. You're going to have to clamp/bolt the flange on something really solid or it'll go banana shaped like mine did on the last runner lol. Really interested to see how that WOT box works too. My car just got finished at the workshop, I just have to go pick it up  will update when I have it, hopefully a day or two


That's awesome!!! I definitely learned my lesson when welding up the log style manifold. So I'm going to build a jig out of mild steel. Me too! Can't wait to get to the point of putting the WOT Box to use.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Received my car today, making all the right noises just need to make my turbo coolant lines before I can run it long enough to properly tune it! Hit [email protected] 3.5k rpm so hoping once I can rev it out it holds around there or I fear the stock internals won’t hold.
> View attachment 289775
> View attachment 289776
> View attachment 289777


Very exciting! Looks really good. You should be fine on the stock internals at those levels. Can't wait to see some video


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I just got my exhaust wrap in the mail. Waiting on the SS zip ties and tool now.


Nice! Would love to see some pictures.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Fuel Pump Ugrade! This applies to the 1.4 and 1.8.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Fuel Pump Ugrade! This applies to the 1.4 and 1.8.


For reference I looked up the stock pump and it is rated to flow [email protected] 43psi so at 58psi it is somewhere around 130lph. Definitely not enough to support your goals haha. 

I need to get a new actuator spring with a lower cracking pressure because ATM its heading for 1bar boost lol. thinking a 3psi spring so end boost will be around 7psi where the flapper will be fully open... Got an exam tomorrow morning, hopefully can pickup the parts I need after and have it ready to tune.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> For reference I looked up the stock pump and it is rated to flow [email protected] 43psi so at 58psi it is somewhere around 130lph. Definitely not enough to support your goals haha.
> 
> I need to get a new actuator spring with a lower cracking pressure because ATM its heading for 1bar boost lol. thinking a 3psi spring so end boost will be around 7psi where the flapper will be fully open... Got an exam tomorrow morning, hopefully can pickup the parts I need after and have it ready to tune.


Definitely not! LOL... the stock pump will support 250 on e85 and 300whp on gas / petrol. That's awesome! Keep us posted. Sounds like things are coming along nicely.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I decided to install the fuel pump last night


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Made some great progress tuning the car, boost is almost instant with this size turbo and got into WOT tuning  Got a boost leak preventing me from going any further, need a new compressor outlet gasket the one I made didnt like the manifold heat... Other than that, I dont think I'll need to heat shield anything everything is pretty distant from the turbine and is far from melting temps 

Had another problem though... Blew the oil dipstick out at high rpm and spat oil everywhere, found my catch can was very restrictive to the PCV system so as a temp fix I've got it vented direct to atmosphere from the valve cover. Got any ideas on how to improve the PCV on these things? Thinking of getting some extra vent ports on my alum valve cover but worried about oil being pushed through without some sort of baffling covering it.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Made some great progress tuning the car, boost is almost instant with this size turbo and got into WOT tuning  Got a boost leak preventing me from going any further, need a new compressor outlet gasket the one I made didnt like the manifold heat... Other than that, I dont think I'll need to heat shield anything everything is pretty distant from the turbine and is far from melting temps
> 
> Had another problem though... Blew the oil dipstick out at high rpm and spat oil everywhere, found my catch can was very restrictive to the PCV system so as a temp fix I've got it vented direct to atmosphere from the valve cover. Got any ideas on how to improve the PCV on these things? Thinking of getting some extra vent ports on my alum valve cover but worried about oil being pushed through without some sort of baffling covering it.


That's awesome to hear! That's a lot of crankcase pressure to push out the dipstick! What did you guys end up doing for the dipstick? IMO, you'll need to set it up with some check valves. The stock PCV is designed for a NA car and was never meant to see boost. Install a check valve coming from the PCV so it'll only function under vacuum. As soon as it sees boost, the check valve will close, and be reverted to another catch can, or a dual catch can setup that'll vent to atmosphere. Similar to how the 1.4 is setup, but rather than feeding it back into the intake side of the turbo, just vent to atmosphere to avoid and issues with oil blow by. I'm thinking I may get an aluminum cam cover, tapping the cover just to give it some more ways to breathe.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> That's awesome to hear! That's a lot of crankcase pressure to push out the dipstick! What did you guys end up doing for the dipstick? IMO, you'll need to set it up with some check valves. The stock PCV is designed for a NA car and was never meant to see boost. Install a check valve coming from the PCV so it'll only function under vacuum. As soon as it sees boost, the check valve will close, and be reverted to another catch can, or a dual catch can setup that'll vent to atmosphere. Similar to how the 1.4 is setup, but rather than feeding it back into the intake side of the turbo, just vent to atmosphere to avoid and issues with oil blow by. I'm thinking I may get an aluminum cam cover, tapping the cover just to give it some more ways to breathe.


The dipstick was cut at the base and welded at a different angle, a new bracket was made to secure it to the compressor housing. Works great and I figured out why oil was spitting out... It was way overfilled by me because I filled it in my driveway which isn't flat . Still not sure on my catch can, its a Mishimoto unit which filters basically everything out but as previously mentioned is quite restrictive. AFR tuning is all done to 3PSI which is the WG spring in it at the moment while I made sure there were no major problems with leaks etc. Im comfortable to go back to the 7PSI spring just have to wait till tomorrow because the car is hot and I've already burnt my hand on the compressor housing which is not something I want to do again lol


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> The dipstick was cut at the base and welded at a different angle, a new bracket was made to secure it to the compressor housing. Works great and I figured out why oil was spitting out... It was way overfilled by me because I filled it in my driveway which isn't flat . Still not sure on my catch can, its a Mishimoto unit which filters basically everything out but as previously mentioned is quite restrictive. AFR tuning is all done to 3PSI which is the WG spring in it at the moment while I made sure there were no major problems with leaks etc. Im comfortable to go back to the 7PSI spring just have to wait till tomorrow because the car is hot and I've already burnt my hand on the compressor housing which is not something I want to do again lol


Awesome! Sounds like you're getting it all sorted. A non baffled catch can will help with the restriction. Those Mishimoto catch cans are pretty good for NA, but the copper / bronze muffler / filter in there will add some restriction.

Time for a turbo blanket! lol


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The start of fabricating the turbo manifold... this will either be great, and become a way to help make manifolds for you guys as well, or an epic fail...lol


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Been busy over Christmas so havent had a whole lot of time to mess with the car, but a little update... Turned it up to 10PSI and installed an IAT sensor just before the throttle body, was very simple just removed the pin from the stock MAF and updated the ECU offsets. Went from idle IATs reporting 65 celcius+ to basically ambient and this allowed me to get my SD tune more accurate  Done about 1500KM and had zero engine/trans issues!

Hope your parts arrived, keen to see an update on your build


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Been busy over Christmas so havent had a whole lot of time to mess with the car, but a little update... Turned it up to 10PSI and installed an IAT sensor just before the throttle body, was very simple just removed the pin from the stock MAF and updated the ECU offsets. Went from idle IATs reporting 65 celcius+ to basically ambient and this allowed me to get my SD tune more accurate  Done about 1500KM and had zero engine/trans issues!
> 
> Hope your parts arrived, keen to see an update on your build


Great idea! If you could share that offsets, the IAT sensor you got, and a photo that would be cool.

Same here. The holiday season was busy, and it's been nice taking a little bit of a break from work, and working on the car. Just been playing some music, which I haven't had time for in a long while. LOL, and built a guitar... let's just say it was a gift.

I called JE a couple of weeks ago, right after the holiday break, and they said they would ship out that week. I'll have to check back to see if they left. So it should be any day now that they come in so I can move forward with the project. Lot's more content to come. I got a short throw shifter, some billet trans mounts as well.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Great idea! If you could share that offsets, the IAT sensor you got, and a photo that would be cool.
> 
> Same here. The holiday season was busy, and it's been nice taking a little bit of a break from work, and working on the car. Just been playing some music, which I haven't had time for in a long while. LOL, and built a guitar... let's just say it was a gift.
> 
> I called JE a couple of weeks ago, right after the holiday break, and they said they would ship out that week. I'll have to check back to see if they left. So it should be any day now that they come in so I can move forward with the project. Lot's more content to come. I got a short throw shifter, some billet trans mounts as well.


Been away on a long needed holiday, sorry for the late update. I used a RaceWorks IAT sensor Motorsport Air Temp Sensor - Raceworks
Offsets are provided in the product page but I needed to add more data points and just interpolated the difference. Only have it RTVd in at the moment as it requires a bung to be welded onto the IC piping. Hope the pistons have arrived in the meantime, theyve had you on tour toes for ages now  

Im going to need to upgrade my fuel pump as I found the tune on straight e85 goes heaps rich on the top end when switching back to unleaded - Ran out of flow. Going to leave it like this though for now as I dont want it to go lean when running E and I regularly switch between the two because its' not readily available around my area (Flex sensor is a lifesaver!)

offsets are:
Resistance: 41.0 53.0 70.0 94.0 125.0 169.0 234.0 280.0 326.0 393.0 460.0 561.0 662.0 819.0 976.0 1,212.0 1,448.0 1,827.0 2,206.0 2,825.5 3,445.0 4,488.0 5,531.0 7,361.5 9,192.0 12,348.0 15,504.0 21,380.0 27,256.0 27,256.0 27,256.0 27,256.0 27,256.0
Temperature: 150 140 130 120 110 100 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0 -5 -10 -15 -20 -20 -20 -20 -20


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Been away on a long needed holiday, sorry for the late update. I used a RaceWorks IAT sensor Motorsport Air Temp Sensor - Raceworks
> Offsets are provided in the product page but I needed to add more data points and just interpolated the difference. Only have it RTVd in at the moment as it requires a bung to be welded onto the IC piping. Hope the pistons have arrived in the meantime, theyve had you on tour toes for ages now
> 
> Im going to need to upgrade my fuel pump as I found the tune on straight e85 goes heaps rich on the top end when switching back to unleaded - Ran out of flow. Going to leave it like this though for now as I dont want it to go lean when running E and I regularly switch between the two because its' not readily available around my area (Flex sensor is a lifesaver!)
> ...


Your project is looking really! I forget what the stock fuel pump is good for. 250whp on E and 300whp on pump gas. I definitely need to get a flex fuel sensor. What pin on the ECU does it plug into?

Thanks for providing the awesome information.

I've definitely been waiting waaayyyyy tooo long. I'm not impressed with JE Pistons at the moment. I purchased them back in July... I called first week of Jan after the holiday season. They said the pistons would be ready that week. 2 weeks later, called and they gave me the Covid runaround and said that the forgings had some issues. **** things better be gold plated, or at least some sort of an apology note... Maybe even toss on a ceramic coating on the top for all the trouble. Part of me wanted to pull my order, get a refund and see if Weisco couldn't help. So still waiting.

Only other thing I can do, until I get the pistons, is toss in my short throw shifter, but what fun is that if I can't demonstrate the driving experience difference...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I think I would ask for the coating .


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> What pin on the ECU does it plug into?


This is a great write up about flex on our cars Chev/Holden 1.4L Cruze E85 FlexFuel Conversion


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Well I've either found the limit of the trans or just broken a CV... Hoping the trans didnt lock up causing the cv to break :/


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I think I would ask for the coating .


Tell me about it. I'm going to call tomorrow. Otherwise I'm going to post a video about my thoughts. And let's just say I know how to SEO rank videos that'll be at the top of the search when there name comes up. Not a threat, but this is ridiculous. It's been 7 months. They can give me the run around about Covid this, flawed forgings that. I've dealt with other vendors that I thought 3 months was ridiculous. Ugh.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> This is a great write up about flex on our cars Chev/Holden 1.4L Cruze E85 FlexFuel Conversion


Nice! I'll check it out. Did it work for the 1.8 ECU? I forget the model numbers, but I know the ECU for, at least mine, is a different number.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Well I've either found the limit of the trans or just broken a CV... Hoping the trans didnt lock up causing the cv to break :/
> View attachment 290549


You might need to wrap the exhaust right by the CV, but I'm sure you're ready to break the axle. That's the weakest point on our cars. Get ready to just keep them in stock.

EDIT: If you have a manual, Should be the M32 gearbox. They're pretty stout. Here's an upgrade video. Might want to check which version you have.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Nice! I'll check it out. Did it work for the 1.8 ECU? I forget the model numbers, but I know the ECU for, at least mine, is a different number.


Mine is an E78 ecm and yeah I've had it running flex before I even started the turbo project  I have the 6T30 automatic transmission and its cooked, there's a hole in the side of the case lol. Going to swap in a 6T45 from our 1.6 turbo that we have here in Aus, they're rated at almost double the torque spec.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Mine is an E78 ecm and yeah I've had it running flex before I even started the turbo project  I have the 6T30 automatic transmission and its cooked, there's a hole in the side of the case lol. Going to swap in a 6T45 from our 1.6 turbo that we have here in Aus, they're rated at almost double the torque spec.


 Yikes! Ever thought about swapping to an manual? Sounds like it'll be a nice replacement. Besides, autos are faster, if they can hold.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Yikes! Ever thought about swapping to an manual? Sounds like it'll be a nice replacement. Besides, autos are faster, if they can hold.


I have thought about it, but I am an auto fan they're faster and just more relaxing to drive in traffic. The new trans will hold anything I can throw at it before forging the engine, it's rated at 160kW/315Nm and will hold quite a bit more than that as that's rated for a 2200kg car. The old one was only rated at 104kW/175Nm and held way more than that before I turned the car up a bit and popped the diff accelerating hard around a corner from a light.










The 6t30 has a much thinner case than the new trans...
















The new Torque converter is also larger... Gearing differences will also allow me to reach a much higher top speed


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Very cool! I'm a fan of both auto and manual. My previous projects both had autos, but they were mated to a V8's. Old th350 trans that I built. Pretty easy to modify an auto to take more torque. A little machining for an extra plate and clutch.

Looks like a promising trans swap. Any mods that need to be done to the trans mounts or axles?


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Very cool! I'm a fan of both auto and manual. My previous projects both had autos, but they were mated to a V8's. Old th350 trans that I built. Pretty easy to modify an auto to take more torque. A little machining for an extra plate and clutch.
> 
> Looks like a promising trans swap. Any mods that need to be done to the trans mounts or axles?


Trans mounts are the same, I've just ordered axles as they're different on the trans side. Only thing I needed to modify is the bracket for holding the shifter cable, I could have tried to find the one for that trans but why bother when all it took was 2 new bolt holes


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Trans mounts are the same, I've just ordered axles as they're different on the trans side. Only thing I needed to modify is the bracket for holding the shifter cable, I could have tried to find the one for that trans but why bother when all it took was 2 new bolt holes


LOL, that's awesome. Once you get it back up and running, it would be great to see some video of it rippin'.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> LOL, that's awesome. Once you get it back up and running, it would be great to see some video of it rippin'.


Would have had it running today but I got shafted on my driveshafts 😂 Will get a vid of it going when I can, was planning to take it to the drag strip before I broke it.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Would have had it running today but I got shafted on my driveshafts 😂 Will get a vid of it going when I can, was planning to take it to the drag strip before I broke it.


LOL, sounds good. Looking forward to the results.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> LOL, sounds good. Looking forward to the results.


So... This trans upgrade kind of rabbit-holed but for the better! Ended up also getting a brake upgrade to 300mm rotors on the front as the axle hub assembly from the 1.6/diesel here isnt compatible with the 1.8 bearings. Entire upgrade was $400 for the trans, ~$400 for the axles/hubs/brakes and a bit of blood/swearing. Not bad having a stronger and safer car now for 800AUD/~650USD! All that's left is to bleed the bigger and now painted brakes  Will try and get to that tomorrow and get a vid up


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> So... This trans upgrade kind of rabbit-holed but for the better! Ended up also getting a brake upgrade to 300mm rotors on the front as the axle hub assembly from the 1.6/diesel here isnt compatible with the 1.8 bearings. Entire upgrade was $400 for the trans, ~$400 for the axles/hubs/brakes and a bit of blood/swearing. Not bad having a stronger and safer car now for 800AUD/~650USD! All that's left is to bleed the bigger and now painted brakes  Will try and get to that tomorrow and get a vid up


I know the feeling when it comes a rabbit hole. lol. Sounds like a solid upgrade, well worth the blood and swearing. Sounds good. Whenever you get a chance.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## guuyuk (Nov 12, 2015)

Used to have a short shifter like this in my Miata (which reduced the already short throw to about 2 inches). Most of the short shift kits for the M32 change the pivot arm on the top of the transmission like this M32 transmission, M32 gearbox, M32 Getriebe, M32 versnellingsbak, Boite M32
Combining the two would be interesting, although the shift effort would probably be a lot higher.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

guuyuk said:


> Used to have a short shifter like this in my Miata (which reduced the already short throw to about 2 inches). Most of the short shift kits for the M32 change the pivot arm on the top of the transmission like this M32 transmission, M32 gearbox, M32 Getriebe, M32 versnellingsbak, Boite M32
> Combining the two would be interesting, although the shift effort would probably be a lot higher.


Funny thing is, I thought about combining the two. I went the physical short throw, in cabin shifter, because mine had seen better days. And physical appearance. I may combine both in the future, but something tells me it'll be over kill and could make it easy to do a money shift.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Project update:

I went to the machine shop today, where my engine has been sitting for 7 months waiting on these pistons. We both have called JE, and the pistons have shipped. So they should be in this week. Ugh, I hate saying should because of how much of a run around I've gotten. When I went to the machine shop, my plan was to grab the block, and toss it in the car so I could at least move forward with making a jig, manifold, mockup the intake and charge pipe as well. That way once they come in, all I would have to do is assemble the bottom end.

With that being said, I left the engine there so when they come in they could hone the bores to the final size. Then I could pick it all up before the end of the week and start checking bearing clearances, valve to piston clearance, and doing final assembly. Definitely would make things easier to only have to put the engine in once.

I'm shooting for a completion date of March 27th for Cleetus and Cars. Only issue is, we're moving our business, where my car has been sitting, and that's a huge project all on it's own.

More to come.


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## Cruzin2011 (Jul 5, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Thank you. Down to the penny, and I wish I wasn't, lol. By the time it's all said and done, it'll be around $3,500 which in my opinion isn't a whole lot. I've spent $7-8k on past projects (V8's) that were 425 hp motors at the flywheel. Below is what I'm gunning for...
> 
> It just really depends on what the parts need. I messed up and tried "machining" the head by using the backwoods method of a thick piece of glass and 200 grit sand paper to clean it up. Well... I took enough material off of the head to realize I should let the pros look at it. So they had to machine .006 just to clean up my mess up. Was trying to keep things budget friendly for the DIYer. Long story short, let a machine shop tell you what it needs. The deck of the block is flat and just needs a little cleaning. Something to note as well is there is a oil pressure regulator just below the deck that's not replaceable and if it get messed up, you have to replace the block.
> 
> ...


Old thread but very interesting, just wanted to let you know ZZP is in the 11’s now 


Crewz said:


> Yikes! Ever thought about swapping to an manual? Sounds like it'll be a nice replacement. Besides, autos are faster, if they can hold.


the automatics in these cars take up far more drivetrain loss, like 60hp more than the manuals


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Cruzin2011 said:


> Old thread but very interesting, just wanted to let you know ZZP is in the 11’s now
> 
> It's still pretty fresh, lol, and on going. I saw that.  I believe it was a 11.84 with the 1.4. Car is completely stripped with slicks. They currently have a turbo on the car with a Xona turbo capable of 600hp. They're trying to see what they can push the engine to until it breaks, and then beef up whatever fails.
> 
> ...


That's just the nature of automatics. I doubt it's 60 more. If that were the case the car would be a real turd with around 50 hp to the wheels. Although, I could be wrong because I haven't really looked into what a stock auto dynos at.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Modern automatics hardly create more drivetrain loss than manuals do anymore - they're _way_ more efficient than automatics from years ago - in a number of applications, they're _more_ efficient.

In the Cruze, since it's a 6AT, you're maybe looking at a 1-2% increase in drivetrain losses over a manual, but that's about it.


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## Cruzin2011 (Jul 5, 2020)

MP81 said:


> Modern automatics hardly create more drivetrain loss than manuals do anymore - they're _way_ more efficient than automatics from years ago - in a number of applications, they're _more_ efficient.
> 
> In the Cruze, since it's a 6AT, you're maybe looking at a 1-2% increase in drivetrain losses over a manual, but that's about it.


You sure on that? I’ve got an email from Tim at ZZP when I asked him what my car should be capable of making... he asked if it was a stick or auto... the auto took up to 60 more horsepower and he even commented that yes, the auto are that bad.

I’ll share the email if need be


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Cruzin2011 said:


> You sure on that? I’ve got an email from Tim at ZZP when I asked him what my car should be capable of making... he asked if it was a stick or auto... the auto took up to 60 more horsepower and he even commented that yes, the auto are that bad.
> 
> I’ll share the email if need be


I'm very sure on that, yes.

Referencing a C6 with an LS3, the figures that group sticks by as givens for drivetrain loss is 12% for the M6, 15% for the A6. That is a figure that will be _less_ on a FWD car, given the smaller amount of actual drivetrain. 

My Cobalt put down 220 whp (with an unlocked torque converter), and I guarantee it is not 60 HP less than if it had a manual. I would bet money that my car, with an F23 or F35, it would put down 250 whp - and would do the same if the converter stayed locked during the run. There simply isn't enough drivetrain to cause more loss.


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## Cruzin2011 (Jul 5, 2020)

MP81 said:


> I'm very sure on that, yes.
> 
> Referencing a C6 with an LS3, the figures that group sticks by as givens for drivetrain loss is 12% for the M6, 15% for the A6. That is a figure that will be _less_ on a FWD car, given the smaller amount of actual drivetrain.
> 
> My Cobalt put down 220 whp (with an unlocked torque converter), and I guarantee it is not 60 HP less than if it had a manual. I would bet money that my car, with an F23 or F35, it would put down 250 whp - and would do the same if the converter stayed locked during the run. There simply isn't enough drivetrain to cause more loss.


Ok,

Different info from two different people... it happens.

“It varies from car to car depending primarily on the customers fuel, but around 240whp if manual, and 190whp if auto. Yup, the auto sucks up that much.”


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

That's likely due to an unlocked converter, so it's not an apples to apples comparison - an ideal auto dyno session would use a locked converter to get numbers you can compare.

I should rephrase what I said above, because I realized I combined two different dyno sessions:

My Cobalt put down 220 whp with the stock manifold and tiny 1.75" downpipe - the converter stayed locked for this run.

When I put a mid-length header and a 2.5" downpipe on the car, performance was _noticeably_ improved, but on the same dyno, it only made 200 whp - because the converter _refused_ to stay locked. If it had listened, I expected to see around 240 whp. So instead of a 20 whp gain, I saw a 20 whp loss - a difference of roughly 40 whp.


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## Cruzin2011 (Jul 5, 2020)

MP81 said:


> That's likely due to an unlocked converter, so it's not an apples to apples comparison - an ideal auto dyno session would use a locked converter to get numbers you can compare.
> 
> I should rephrase what I said above, because I realized I combined two different dyno sessions:
> 
> ...


Makes sense, I had a switch in my Buick GN that I could lock the converter with a flip of a switch, when I really upgraded the drive train I had a 9 inch non lockup converter in there.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Cruzin2011 said:


> You sure on that? I’ve got an email from Tim at ZZP when I asked him what my car should be capable of making... he asked if it was a stick or auto... the auto took up to 60 more horsepower and he even commented that yes, the auto are that bad.
> 
> I’ll share the email if need be


I have a feeling he was talking about the power that the transmissions can hold? Having driven stock man/auto cruzes there is no way that the auto sucks that much power as it would be extremely noticeable and they felt almost identical. I blew up my 6t30 auto around the 200whp mark so that would make sense. 

@Crewz been trying to get a vid but its been raining non stop lol


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## Cruzin2011 (Jul 5, 2020)

F18D4T said:


> I have a feeling he was talking about the power that the transmissions can hold? Having driven stock man/auto cruzes there is no way that the auto sucks that much power as it would be extremely noticeable and they felt almost identical. I blew up my 6t30 auto around the 200whp mark so that would make sense.
> 
> @Crewz been trying to get a vid but its been raining non stop lol


Could certainly be


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> I have a feeling he was talking about the power that the transmissions can hold? Having driven stock man/auto cruzes there is no way that the auto sucks that much power as it would be extremely noticeable and they felt almost identical. I blew up my 6t30 auto around the 200whp mark so that would make sense.
> 
> @Crewz been trying to get a vid but its been raining non stop lol


LOL, whenever you get a chance.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

One step closer to completing the manifold.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Looking great! Cant wait to see how the manifold turns out  I will be interested to see how you route your turbo piping now that you've decided to flip it around 

Here's a little vid showing my car in action... Forgot to turn off TC, the audio sucks and its a bad angle haha. Ill get a helper to operate the camera next time. Something to note I have found that without having a TIAP sensor my throttle is being limited to only 60% and it only gets there at high RPMs (Thanks HPTuners forum for ending this tail chasing). I'll have to add a map sensor into my IC pipe before the throttle to get the most out of my setup, it is really sluggish until high RPMs.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Looking great! Cant wait to see how the manifold turns out  I will be interested to see how you route your turbo piping now that you've decided to flip it around
> 
> Here's a little vid showing my car in action... Forgot to turn off TC, the audio sucks and its a bad angle haha. Ill get a helper to operate the camera next time. Something to note I have found that without having a TIAP sensor my throttle is being limited to only 60% and it only gets there at high RPMs (Thanks HPTuners forum for ending this tail chasing). I'll have to add a map sensor into my IC pipe before the throttle to get the most out of my setup, it is really sluggish until high RPMs.


Sounds good and looks like it's really scooting! If you can get some video of the engine that would be cool. I could toss it up on YouTube. I'm sure a lot of the gang would love to see that.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

@Blasirl Looks like I got that GT30 after all...  Maxpeedingrods hooked me up with a little bit of a sponsorship.





The manifold is coming along as well. Just finishing up the welding.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Man I cant wait to see your manifold come to life!

Made a quick video of the engine bay, dont plan on making YT vids so its a bit rough but you can get a good look at what's in there


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Man I cant wait to see your manifold come to life!
> 
> Made a quick video of the engine bay, dont plan on making YT vids so its a bit rough but you can get a good look at what's in there


Definitely looks good! That's about all I was willing to push the stock internals. 8psi with 10 psi spikes. Definitely make it scoot. Any plans to dyno the car? I need did with the first variation. Would be interesting to see what power it's running. I know there was a cruze pushing 155 to the hubs with 5psi vs the stock 90 whp. I'd guess you're around 175-190 which is a substantial increase.

I can't wait either. Almost finished with it.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Definitely looks good! That's about all I was willing to push the stock internals. 8psi with 10 psi spikes. Definitely make it scoot. Any plans to dyno the car? I need did with the first variation. Would be interesting to see what power it's running. I know there was a cruze pushing 155 to the hubs with 5psi vs the stock 90 whp. I'd guess you're around 175-190 which is a substantial increase.
> 
> I can't wait either. Almost finished with it.


I do plan to get it on a dyno, I know somebody who will let me use the one in their shop  Just want to sort out a throttle issue that I'm having due to not having a TIAP before seeing what it makes. I'd imagine I'm around 175-190 like you said, also interested to see if my intake manifold might surprise me with a little more!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> I do plan to get it on a dyno, I know somebody who will let me use the one in their shop  Just want to sort out a throttle issue that I'm having due to not having a TIAP before seeing what it makes. I'd imagine I'm around 175-190 like you said, also interested to see if my intake manifold might surprise me with a little more!


Nice! Looking forward to the results. I wouldn't be surprised to even see figures in the 200+. Have you thought about getting some 1.6t rods, and opening up the ring gap for boost? I'm sure at 2bar the engine would be putting down some impressive numbers. With just a few hundred more in parts, an afternoons worth of work, a light hone, and a little balancing, who knows how far the engine could be pushed.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

You guys are getting the first glimpse at the manifold 95% finished. I just need to belt sand the flange surface a little to level it. I'm VERY happy with how it came out, being that it's my second time to make one, and a first for a long(er) runner turbo manifold. Was SOOO much work, but well worth it.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

Oil filter/cooler relocation possible ? Looks pretty sweet lol currently wondering if I shoulda bought the 1.8 I test drove now ... wonder if they still have it .


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Mr_Pat said:


> Oil filter/cooler relocation possible ? Looks pretty sweet lol currently wondering if I shoulda bought the 1.8 I test drove now ... wonder if they still have it .


It so happens the 1.6T here has a bottom mounted oil cooler that will bolt on  

That is looking amazing, you've done an amazing job of the manifold! Really looking like its coming together now thats a MAJOR piece of the puzzle ticked off


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Nice! Looking forward to the results. I wouldn't be surprised to even see figures in the 200+. Have you thought about getting some 1.6t rods, and opening up the ring gap for boost? I'm sure at 2bar the engine would be putting down some impressive numbers. With just a few hundred more in parts, an afternoons worth of work, a light hone, and a little balancing, who knows how far the engine could be pushed.


I have thought about this but for now I'm totally happy with how the car is performing except for the throttle issue ATM and wont be turning it up until the start of next year probably (Major career change in-between now and then as well). Once I am in a good financial state I'll buy a new engine to forge and swap in then crack open this one to see how it held up (if it does). I've got about 90k hard driven Kms on this engine so I'm not going to bother opening it up I'd rather start on a fresh one.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> It so happens the 1.6T here has a bottom mounted oil cooler that will bolt on
> 
> That is looking amazing, you've done an amazing job of the manifold! Really looking like its coming together now thats a MAJOR piece of the puzzle ticked off


Thanks! LOL, I thought about getting one if the current one becomes an issue after running the exhaust. Was a lot of work, but very satisfying to see it come together.



Mr_Pat said:


> Oil filter/cooler relocation possible ? Looks pretty sweet lol currently wondering if I shoulda bought the 1.8 I test drove now ... wonder if they still have it .


They do, which come stock on the 1.6 turbo variant (same block). GM part #55355599. 
Great thing is they come with the oil feed as well.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> I have thought about this but for now I'm totally happy with how the car is performing except for the throttle issue ATM and wont be turning it up until the start of next year probably (Major career change in-between now and then as well). Once I am in a good financial state I'll buy a new engine to forge and swap in then crack open this one to see how it held up (if it does). I've got about 90k hard driven Kms on this engine so I'm not going to bother opening it up I'd rather start on a fresh one.


Definitely a smart way to go about it. I'm sure it'll continue to hold up fine. You definitely have a nicely done conversion.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Manifold alllll finished up!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Manifold alllll finished up!


Man, First time I have ever seen a double Rams Horn, 13 electrode manifold from the River Styx! 

I am looking forward to seeing this thing fired up! Pay attention to the oil cap to make sure it does not melt.

Oh and I believe that sensor is call a Camshaft Position Sensor.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Man, First time I have ever seen a double Rams Horn, 13 electrode manifold from the River Styx!
> 
> I am looking forward to seeing this thing fired up! Pay attention to the oil cap to make sure it does not melt.
> 
> Oh and I believe that sensor is call a Camshaft Position Sensor.


Hahaha, you and me both! I'll definitely keep an eye on it. Don't want to set things on fire. I may just have to get the under mount cooler that comes on the 1.6t.

The cam position sensors are towards the driver's side ('merica). Now I need to brush up on what the VVT solenoid is called.  If it's something fancier than that. I just draw a blank sometimes when the camera is on.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The pistons are FINALLY in!!!


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## CCruze14 (Jun 11, 2020)

So I haven't checked in on this in a while, whats the cost for getting a decent running turbo on the 1.8L totaling so far?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

CCruze14 said:


> So I haven't checked in on this in a while, whats the cost for getting a decent running turbo on the 1.8L totaling so far?


It just depends on how crazy you want to get with it. When it was the stock engine with the T04E, it cost me around $1300. Largest expense was HPTuners and a Wideband.
In it's current state, I'd guesstimate I have around 5,500 - 6k.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)




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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

I enjoy your vids but family first man. Gotta take care of the other half the toys will be there waiting . Tinker when you find a minute or just need a breath. Hope she gets well soon.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Crewz said:


> It just depends on how crazy you want to get with it. When it was the stock engine with the T04E, it cost me around $1300. Largest expense was HPTuners and a Wideband.
> In it's current state, I'd guesstimate I have around 5,500 - 6k.


$5,500 - $6,000, what a bargain  
Can't wait to see your COTM submission BTW!


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Loved ones first! Hope all goes well with that situation  
Im at about 8k USD deep into my build and I have none of the fancy forged pistons etc that you have :/ Youve done a great job DIYing and keeping costs low!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Loved ones first! Hope all goes well with that situation
> Im at about 8k USD deep into my build and I have none of the fancy forged pistons etc that you have :/ Youve done a great job DIYing and keeping costs low!


Family definitely first!
Did you do the work yourself or pay someone? Thank you. It's fun tinkering with cars, and at least giving it my best at the DIY aspects of the build.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Crewz said:


> Family definitely first!
> Did you do the work yourself or pay someone? Thank you. It's fun tinkering with cars, and at least giving it my best at the DIY aspects of the build.


I had the fabrication of the manifold/ic piping/exhaust done by somebody else, all the other stuff I’ve done myself. I didn’t want the headache of having any of that stuff having to be redone because of my poor welding skills as it’s my only car. It’s down atm though as a bad expansion joint cover in a carpark flicked up and caught my exhaust and put a hole in the oil pan :/


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

F18D4T said:


> I had the fabrication of the manifold/ic piping/exhaust done by somebody else, all the other stuff I’ve done myself. I didn’t want the headache of having any of that stuff having to be redone because of my poor welding skills as it’s my only car. It’s down atm though as a bad expansion joint cover in a carpark flicked up and caught my exhaust and put a hole in the oil pan :/


That sucks. Was it a city owned thing? If so get an estimate or use your receipt and go to the street department. Make some noise and see what happens. It has worked in the past.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> That sucks. Was it a city owned thing? If so get an estimate or use your receipt and go to the street department. Make some noise and see what happens. It has worked in the past.


No it was privately owned, they've been cooperative so far this type of thing falls under public liability here in Aus. They said if the car is of legal ground clearance (100mm) there will be no issues.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

F18D4T said:


> No it was privately owned, they've been cooperative so far this type of thing falls under public liability here in Aus. They said if the car is of legal ground clearance (100mm) there will be no issues.


Are you lowered?


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Are you lowered?


Yes, 50mm lowered. Still above legal ride height though at about 110mm


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> I had the fabrication of the manifold/ic piping/exhaust done by somebody else, all the other stuff I’ve done myself. I didn’t want the headache of having any of that stuff having to be redone because of my poor welding skills as it’s my only car. It’s down atm though as a bad expansion joint cover in a carpark flicked up and caught my exhaust and put a hole in the oil pan :/


Dang, must have got pretty banged up. Hope you get it back on the road soon.


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## PeanutthaKid (Apr 6, 2021)

Been watching this build and all the videos and this has pushed me to start planning my own 1.8L build. I do have some questions though....

@Crewz The rods you used, are those from the 1.6L Corsa VXR by chance? I got tech specs from GM in regards to the motor and for the most part everything seems like those H Beam forged rods are a perfect match, but I'm having difficulty getting the stock center to center specs.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

PeanutthaKid said:


> Been watching this build and all the videos and this has pushed me to start planning my own 1.8L build. I do have some questions though....
> 
> @Crewz The rods you used, are those from the 1.6L Corsa VXR by chance? I got tech specs from GM in regards to the motor and for the most part everything seems like those H Beam forged rods are a perfect match, but I'm having difficulty getting the stock center to center specs.


Nice! Welcome to the 1.8 build gang.

They're 1.6 Corsa VXR rods. 19mm on the small end. I went with these at the time and got them for a steal at $200.
Center to center length: 129.75mm
Big end diameter:46mm
Small end diameter: 19mm
Big end width: 21.8mm
Small end width: 19.9mm

https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/?track... Search for "Compatible for Opel Vauxhall Corsa VXR Z16LER Z16 1.6 Conrods Con Rod Connecting Rod*"*

Once I get the block back from machining and toss them in, I'll see if they're perhaps the same distance down in the hole. They seem just a smidge shorter to help with lower the CR for boost. However, they've installed nicely on the crank, but you will have to get different bearings because the tangs are on opposite sides vs the same side like on the stock rods.

I don't plan to push the engine more than 600 crank hp, and 8k rpm. From what I've seen from the 1.6 VXR dyno videos, that are basically the same block, they tend to like to rev high 8,200+


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## PeanutthaKid (Apr 6, 2021)

I was looking at those and there was also a set of I Beams I found for about 300. Good to know and thanks for the videos. Also family is definitely first. I'm dealing with some family stuff myself or this this would be done already.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

PeanutthaKid said:


> I was looking at those and there was also a set of I Beams I found for about 300. Good to know and thanks for the videos. Also family is definitely first. I'm dealing with some family stuff myself or this this would be done already.


Sorry to hear that. That's life for ya. I'll be back to working on the car as soon as the engine gets out the machine shop. Definitely could use a day a week where I don't think about anything, aside from accomplishing my goal with this car before getting back to reality.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Hey gang! Been a hot minute since I've uploaded or talked about the car. With this down time I have be doing a lot of thinking, planing, and collecting of parts.

The engine is still at the machine shop, but it'll be ready any day now. Some of things I've having done to the block to shoot for a 500+whp goal is I ordered a set of ARP head studs for a dodge neon SRT-4.




__





The Official ARP Web Site | Kits







arp-bolts.com





Same length, but they're 1mm larger in diameter, so I'm having the machine shop enlarge the taps to accommodate for that. So that should solve any issue with keeping the head from wanting to lift. The stock MLS gasket should work great here. One of the other things I'm doing is installing some ARP main studs. I dropped them off with the machine shop. We'll see if they work, but should only need a line hone afterwards. Same thread pitch as the stock units. If for some reason they're a little on the tall side, I'll start working on designing some billet aluminum caps.

I thought about getting a A16LET intake from overseas, but I think I'll end up fabricating a custom intake. 1) so it's on the transmission side 2) allowing the charge pipe to be shorter 3) I plan on utilizing a LSJ turbo throttle body, which is larger and has the same connector. I found some stock from ZZP that comes off their GM production engine stock.








New OEM GM Throttle Body COBALT HHR SKY SOLSTICE Regal 2.0 TURBO LNF Ecotec | eBay


ZZPerformance provides you with highly specific technical information, not found anywhere else. 2008-10 HHR SS 2.0. 2008-2010 Pontiac Solstice 2.0. New fresh takeoff from GM assembly line engine. Authentic GM original.



ebay.us





I plan on modeling the custom intake around Racer X's 1.4 design, but adapting it for the 1.8.
https://racerxfabrication.com/sonic/intake/intake-manifold

I'm rethinking the turbo intake as I'm not a fan of the cone "hot air" intakes designs on the market. I do however like RacerX's cold air design
https://racerxfabrication.com/sonic/air-intake/cold-air-intake

Rather than keeping the stock 2.75 intake size, I will be stepping up to a 3.5" with a bell mouth at the opening, inside the cold air box, which will also allow me to use a K&N square style intake. (Take a look at the link above's photos for what I'm going for).

As you guys know, my issue last time around was overlooking the PCV setup. So I got a catch can from Motion Raceworks which will just attach to the PCV from the cam cover. https://www.motionraceworks.com/products/motion-raceworks-top-loader-billet-catch-can-single-12-an-port-32-103

Speaking of cam covers, I ordered a cast aluminum cover relatively cheap so I have piece of mind and don't have to worry about the cover melting. Also, If I need additional PCV, I could always weld on an additional bung. We'll see how it holds up to leaks. May end up using some silicon sealer in the corners. Luckily this thing is already painted black. Not a fan of bare aluminum cam covers.








Engine aluminum Valve Cover Kit Fits Chevrolet Cruze Aveo Saturn Astra 55564395 | eBay


Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Engine aluminum Valve Cover Kit Fits Chevrolet Cruze Aveo Saturn Astra 55564395 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



ebay.us





In a previous video, I installed a DW300c fuel pump and purchased some 1200cc Siemens Deka injectors, which are a great brand. Only issue is there is almost zero characterization data for them aside from minimum pulse width and dead time. Not very helpful with HP Tuners and will make tuning a pain because I would be tuning around a bandaid. So I ordered some Injector Dynamics 1050x injectors.
http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1050-xds/
Our cars run at 58psi and these will flow more than enough for my horsepower goals. Not to mention they already have the characterization already in Excel spread sheets I can just past into HP Tuners.

Last not least, I'm "making" a custom fuel rail. I purchased dash 8 blank stock for cheap that I will have to machine for the injectors and new manifold.








Raw Dash 8 Fuel Rail Extrusion Sold by the foot! RMR-069 | eBay


Dash 8 Fuel Rail Extrusion. The extrusion is made of 6063 T-5 aluminum.



 ebay.us





For fuel pressure regulation I ordered a Radium FPR
http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P1951.aspx And their fuel damper http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-Inline-Kits-P751.aspx 

I will be cutting the stock 3/8 hard line and will be adapting it to dash 8 with a fuel return. Chevy Cruzes come stock with a returnees system. Something I've learned along the way is that the PTFE return line should be conductive to prevent a static charge from building up and arcing through the line causing fuel leaks and / or fire. So this is one part of the build where I'm not skimping, or going the eBay route for fittings. I've purchased some Fragola PTFE line and Earl's fittings. I'm not too thrilled about having to drop the tank again, lol, but it's a necessary evil to convert it to a return style system in order for the fuel pressure to rise 1 psi per 1 psi of boost.

I of course will be documenting and making how to videos along the way. All I have for now, but looking forward to completing this project within the next couple of months.


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## Shlomi Vinny (Jun 29, 2021)

Hey @Crewz, i was exposed to your project just a few days ago, I just finished putting PEC rods and Wossner pistons in my corsa, oversized pistons at 79.5mm. Its my first backyard engine re/build.
I used the Athena MLS head gasket, as it is a partner company of Wossner and PEC, and is highly recommended. Thats my experience with this engine's little 1.6 brother.

To the point, for an intake, definitely use an aftermarket one, or a modified 1.6 one, IMO the throttle body has to be cut off and reattached at least at an angle like the RacerX manifold you showed, or at 90 to the engine like the Edelbrock Victor X manifolds, which is ideal, since its proven to work well, better than the stock Corsa intake, again IMO. 

PEC rods are pretty affordable, hence why I got them, also always ask for VAT off if you buy in the UK as a foreigner.
https://wgmotorparts.co.uk/pec-stee...hall-opel-corsa-d-vxr-1-6t-16v-z16ler-models/

Great idea on the ARP SRT4 head studs, that should work, since this block has plenty meat around the threads, and the thread is M10x1.25 IIRC, so a 1mm oversize is nothing, you could probably go 1/2"(12.7mm) big boy studs just for the fun of it. But im not sure if the head has enough meat on her.

Main crankshaft bearing caps... yeah, theyre not the stoutest, custom caps will probably not hurt at the power youre aiming at.
King Bearings make main bearings for this engine, amazingly they all just fit and had perfect clearance, plastigage is awesome btw.
Main bearings: MB5519AM
Always use new bearings. These, I believe, are the bi-metal soft bearings, like the stock ones, which means junk in your oil will embed into them and will not scratch your crank, or at least somewhat protect it, easily replaceable and cheap.

Good luck with the rail, seems like a sure way of making big power with plenty of fuel. Not much to say about that, since I dont know any of the products youre using, except that they seem to be of high quality and American made. Hell yeah brother!

I saw you got an M32, make sure its the later model with the revised bearing cover and bigger bearings. it should have a long galley sticking out of the casting towards the FL tire.

What about flywheel and clutch? Single mass with a twin disc?

Good luck with your build bro, youre doing great, i saw the oil pump refurb video and was like, ****, i only cleaned the gears and didnt actually open any of the M18 plugs.
Those are 18mm btw, next time you need one of those copper seals:
Amazon.com: COPPER CRUSH WASHERS ID 18mm / 6 PACK: Automotive
So an M18 or 18mm banjo will thread in.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Hey gang! Been a hot minute since I've uploaded or talked about the car. With this down time I have be doing a lot of thinking, planing, and collecting of parts.
> 
> The engine is still at the machine shop, but it'll be ready any day now. Some of things I've having done to the block to shoot for a 500+whp goal is I ordered a set of ARP head studs for a dodge neon SRT-4.
> 
> ...


I have a Racer-X manifold I could loan you for a short period if you deem it necessary to actually see one.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Shlomi Vinny said:


> Hey @Crewz, i was exposed to your project just a few days ago, I just finished putting PEC rods and Wossner pistons in my corsa, oversized pistons at 79.5mm. Its my first backyard engine re/build.
> I used the Athena MLS head gasket, as it is a partner company of Wossner and PEC, and is highly recommended. Thats my experience with this engine's little 1.6 brother.
> 
> To the point, for an intake, definitely use an aftermarket one, or a modified 1.6 one, IMO the throttle body has to be cut off and reattached at least at an angle like the RacerX manifold you showed, or at 90 to the engine like the Edelbrock Victor X manifolds, which is ideal, since its proven to work well, better than the stock Corsa intake, again IMO.
> ...


Thanks for all the tips. Sounds like a pretty killer build. I've looked at quite a bit of the 1.6 "little brother engines" for inspiration.

I have a set of Maxpeedingrods H-beam rods with ARP studs. I should be good there. The replacement bearings I got are the same number you mentioned, King bearings. I found some rods bearing that they make as well that are for hp applications, but the tangs are on the the wrong side of one of them. Hopefully I can at least use the upper half to help take some of the force of the rod / piston being pushed down. I'll know more once the engine is back from the machine shop.
You're right about the amount of meat. I didn't want to go too crazy with over boring the threads just to be sure it'll hold just fine and the block not break around the threads. The SRT-4 guys seem to have pretty good success with the ARP rods, so I'll start there.
For the flywheel and clutch, it's a Clutch Masters single mass aluminum flywheel and a Stage 5 Spec clutch. It's unsprung and has a ton of contact area. It'll hold up to 550 ft lbs of torque, which I don't see the car reaching until it gets in the 750+bhp range. But we'll see since this is uncharted territory (at least that's been documented that I can find).
I'm basing the intake around this boost theory / engineering book I've found. It's an older book, but still holds true in many aspects. But long story short, it'll definitely be similar to a skunk2 style intake, well at least what I can fabricate.

I'll keep you guys updated both here and on the ol' YouTubes.  Cheers.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I have a Racer-X manifold I could loan you for a short period if you deem it necessary to actually see one.





Blasirl said:


> I have a Racer-X manifold I could loan you for a short period if you deem it necessary to actually see one.


That's very kind of you! I may take you up on that offer once I get the block in the car. I'll need to figure out how long of a runner I can get away with, plus with the added size of the plenum, before it's too close to the firewall / other components.

I've actually reached out to RacerX and sent over my designs for a quote, or to see if they're interested in partnering up on a custom manifold build. I've already put in the time, designed the flange, plenum to runner, and throttle body flange to accept the LSJ throttle body... They don't seem very interested at the moment. I may also reach out to ZZP to see if there's a way they would sponsor, or be willing to partner on producing parts for this platform. We'll see how it goes, but something tells me it'll have to be a proof of concept kinda deal before I get their attention... even though I have pretty close to the same amount of subs as they do on YouTube lol.

I was really looking forward to producing my line of parts for the 1.8 platform, but with the way things are going with the EPA cracking down on "emissions defeat devices", it may only be a pipe dream as I'm not willing to put time into a new company to be hit with a fine and a cease and desist. Any how... check this out...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Manifold Design Update:

Over the holiday weekend, I spent a little time designing the manifold flange, runner to plenum flange, as well as a throttle body flange that'll work with the LSJ throttle body.

Fun fact, the LSJ throttle body is the same size opening (57mm) as the stock 1.8, BUT the opening is a little larger. However the LSJ throttle body doesn't have all the PCV and coolant passages

Attached are 3D models of the flange, which accepts the standard 11m injectors, the runner to plenum, and LSJ throttle body flange.

I spent a lot of time taking measurements, printing clear film, lining things up, and tweaking. I've used Sketchup in the past to do just personal projects, and think they came out decent in the program. I did however have to pay someone to convert those files to a STEP file for CNC machining...

I've also spent a lot of time researching and reading Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. Great read even though some of the EFI tech is outdated, but the engineering fundamentals are spot on.

Sadly, I've started getting quotes, they are ridiculous. I've been quoted on average $1,300 to do one intake flange, around $600 for the throttle body flange, and $800 for the runner to plenum flange... which was a real kick in the pants. So now I'm looking to having it made overseas, which I'm not thrilled about, but this is a budget build and I'm not trying to spend close to $3k on a one off prototype.

At this point, I may have to go the laser cut / water jet route and use a cheap Harbor Freight router to get the radius's I need for sufficient air flow transitions...

More to come...


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

Looks pretty sweet.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Mr_Pat said:


> Looks pretty sweet.


Thanks!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Good news. I found a company overseas that'll CNC the parts for pretty inexpensive. $381 to be exact. I was just about to pull the trigger on laser cut parts, but luckily they were pretty affordable (Unfortunately not based in the US..). It'll take about 3-4 weeks before they're complete.

In the meantime, I have been working on the plenum design. Once the parts come in, and the engine is in the car, I'll be able to determine how long the runners will be. @Blasirl how long are the runners on the RacerX manifold?

On another note, I talked to the machine shop and the engine is supposed to be ready today, but I won't be able to make it in time to pick it up, so that'll have to wait until next week. No biggie.

More to come soon.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> Good news. I found a company overseas that'll CNC the parts for pretty inexpensive. $381 to be exact. I was just about to pull the trigger on laser cut parts, but luckily they were pretty affordable (Unfortunately not based in the US..). It'll take about 3-4 weeks before they're complete.
> 
> In the meantime, I have been working on the plenum design. Once the parts come in, and the engine is in the car, I'll be able to determine how long the runners will be. @Blasirl how long are the runners on the RacerX manifold?
> 
> ...


I have been over the top busy and will be for the next week, but I will see if I can measure it up for you. From where to where do you want me to measure?


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> I have been over the top busy and will be for the next week, but I will see if I can measure it up for you. From where to where do you want me to measure?


I appreciate it. Whenever you get a chance. From the top of the flange that mates to the head, to the base of the plenum.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Just to be crystal!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> View attachment 293299
> 
> 
> Just to be crystal!


#2. Thanks for clarifying.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> #2. Thanks for clarifying.


I'll try and remember tonight. I was sidetracked last night.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

I love when things go smoothly! The CNC parts are finished, and ready to ship. They sent over a couple pictures, and they look absolutely beautiful! Can't wait to get these things in.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The plenum came in a few days ago. Was a little pricey, but hey… made in ‘Merica…








I’m looking forward to working on this.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

I'm looking forward to seeing this in the car. Nice work.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> I love when things go smoothly! The CNC parts are finished, and ready to ship. They sent over a couple pictures, and they look absolutely beautiful! Can't wait to get these things in.
> 
> View attachment 293459
> View attachment 293460


Oh $#!+, I measured this and now that I am on the computer again, I can't remember..._punching in reminder on phone..._a **** thing anymore!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Mr_Pat said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing this in the car. Nice work.


Thanks! You and me both.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Oh $#!+, I measured this and now that I am on the computer again, I can't remember..._punching in reminder on phone..._a **** thing anymore!


LOL, I know the feeling. No rush, because I'm sure I'll still need to install the engine in the car and double check everything before I give it a final weld.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

It's coming along.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

The runners are exactly 4.25 inches


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

The piece that bolts to the throttle body is at an angle too. Pictures and more measurements in the AM.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

PM'd


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> PM'd


Thank you! I really appreciate it.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

What do you guys think of the intake design? Looking for feedback


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> What do you guys think of the intake design? Looking for feedback


I would consider cutting the outside return of the bell mouth or at least lowering the profile of it by pulling it toward the outside when you finally make the thing. And just looking at the crush on the cardboard, Could you not just add another facet at that corner where it crushed? It looked like it was going to fit, but I could not tell obviously. If you would have removed the bell mouth and let the hood close all the ay it would have been more telling.
_
It felt like I was chewing my feet saying that!_


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Good point! I'll have to do that when I get back around to taking it on as a project. Thanks for all the help!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

The engine is finally back from the machine shop!!! After 14 months of waiting, it's finally time to start putting this thing together.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

Looking good


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Mr_Pat said:


> Looking good


Thanks!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Short block ready. I got the wrong ARP studs. They were about an inch too short, so I'm having ARP send me the correct ones. Then the top end will come together.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

She's coming right along!!! Fully build boosted 1.8 soon!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

So close! Yet so much more to do still. Almost there gang!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Update. At the moment, I have clearances for piston to head checked. They're right in the ballpark, but I'll have to "make" a custom head gasket. I've reached out to a few companies, and surprise, surprise, unless it's a LS... they don't have the tooling to make a one off gasket. I've reached out to Cometic, as well as SCE.

I have a custom shim on the way I had cut at sendcutsend.com to give me the clearance I need. Compressed stock gasket is .025". It's a MLS. The middle shim is a .006" flat steel shim that's coated. The plan is to cut out the rivets, remove the middle shim, place the .030 shim I had cut from CRS, coat it with copper spray sealer, and bolt her down with ARP head studs. That's my best fighting chance.

The piston sticks out the hole .038". There is .032" clearance / quench pad in the combustion chamber. With the added shim, that'll give me a squish of .043" clearance which is ideal. Piston to valve clearance will check out at; Intake = .0297”, Exhaust = .0263”.

Did a timing check, and everything lines up just fine after a few turns of the crankshaft, so we should be good there. VVT angles to be adjusted on the dyno to see what it likes.

All part of the little details that go into engine building, boosted or not.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Lookin' Goood Luucy!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Blasirl said:


> Lookin' Goood Luucy!


Thanks! Slow and steady...


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Last set of checks before this thing goes together and is ready for the first start!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

She's up and running! Need to fix the leaking rear main seal... ugh, but another mile stone.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Getting this thing sorted out! The break in fluids look great. Now time to get after finishing up the intake, charge piping, exhaust, and intake!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Rear main seal fixed. Installed the LSD while I was at it!


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Glad to see it back up and running!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

F18D4T said:


> Glad to see it back up and running!


Thanks! Me too. Been so long.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Full length turbo back exhaust installed! Get closer to boost time!


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

She's all finished! Time to tune it and make some boost!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Crewz said:


> She's all finished! Time to tune it and make some boost!


Coming along quite nicely. I am beginning to get a little anxious to see how she performs.
Keep an eye on the bulkhead connection in the future, as the paper tag you left on there may disintegrate. When do you plan to ship the T-shirts?


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## DGM_Insignia (12 mo ago)

Hi mate, I am doing a similar build on an Insignia 1.8 (so same engine). I am good with all the mechanical bits, but I was hoping you can give me a bit more info in regards to the electronics. What did you use and what it took to make it right for the boost. Am I right to think , that with this HP tuners kit, all I need is to plug it in, calibrate the fuel maps and the ignition and it would be job done? If I can somewhat use the original ECU I would definitely prefer that. Also what car have you selected as I can't find 1.8 petrol Cruze or Insignia? Thank you in advance. I will post in* F18D4T*'s thread as well - I hope I will gather info from both of you and see if there are any differences and what suits me best. I love what you guys are doing, thank you for the information, as what you 2 did is pretty much what inspired me to do this build.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

DGM_Insignia said:


> Hi mate, I am doing a similar build on an Insignia 1.8 (so same engine). I am good with all the mechanical bits, but I was hoping you can give me a bit more info in regards to the electronics. What did you use and what it took to make it right for the boost. Am I right to think , that with this HP tuners kit, all I need is to plug it in, calibrate the fuel maps and the ignition and it would be job done? If I can somewhat use the original ECU I would definitely prefer that. Also what car have you selected as I can't find 1.8 petrol Cruze or Insignia? Thank you in advance. I will post in* F18D4T*'s thread as well - I hope I will gather info from both of you and see if there are any differences and what suits me best. I love what you guys are doing, thank you for the information, as what you 2 did is pretty much what inspired me to do this build.


Hey! Sorry about the delayed reply. You're right about that. HP Tuners, you'll need Wideband such as the AEM unit that'll intercept the AFR's to dial in the fueling. Aside from that, log, and adjust fuel and spark as necessary. I've learned most of what I've been doing tuning wise from Goat Rope Garage on YouTube, HP Tuners channel, as well as HP Academy. Good luck with the build. I'm on YouTube answering questions more often than here as it's getting quite the following and has taken more time to answer questions there.


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Hey Gang! Been a while, but definitely still at it. Have ran into my share of issues, but She's running, and we're in tuning stage. I've tuned it myself, but will be handing it over to someone more familiar with tuning than me. Just a few more small changes to the build, such as an AEM TruBoost controller, billet wheel turbo from my sponsor Maxpeedingrods, and a larger intake pipe to the front of the turbo. Aside from that we should see some dyno numbers soon and some ET's at the track.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Don't worry man been keeping an eye on your YouTube videos.


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## fisherju3800 (Apr 13, 2018)

Crewz said:


> Hey Gang! Been a while, but definitely still at it. Have ran into my share of issues, but She's running, and we're in tuning stage. I've tuned it myself, but will be handing it over to someone more familiar with tuning than me. Just a few more small changes to the build, such as an AEM TruBoost controller, billet wheel turbo from my sponsor Maxpeedingrods, and a larger intake pipe to the front of the turbo. Aside from that we should see some dyno numbers soon and some ET's at the track.


I have a question regarding the SPEC Steel Billet flywheel you used for this build. Was it the flywheel that is listed for the 1.4L engine (SC17S)? If so, were you able to use the 1.4L flywheel with no problems/modifications? I have a 1.8L (no mods) and want to replace the DMF with a steel SMF to increase flywheel longevity (DMF is rattling). SPEC told me that the 1.4L and 1.8L flywheels/pressure plates are different but my research has shown that the OEM part numbers for 1.4L and 1.8L are the same.


----------

