# Redesign for Coolant system??? Is this possible?



## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

sounds like a bulletin should be issued by GM. Does the sonic have the coolant smell issue too?


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

The Holden Cruze has the fluid tank on the passengers side and there is no smell. If you look closely the dash area is reversed on the RHD car. Diesel shown but still applies to petrol.

View attachment 51521


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## ChuzCruze (Feb 9, 2012)

My Cruze is currently in the Dealership for the seventh time for this coolant smell issue. Do you have what I am now calling "coolant cough"? I have it every winter since I got this vehicle. My dealership (this Dealership is new to me because I moved and this is their first attempt at fixing it. All other attempts were made by my previous dealership) has stated that they have ordered parts to "fix" this issue. Not sure what they are replacing/repairing, but I will know more Monday.


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

ChuzCruze said:


> My Cruze is currently in the Dealership for the seventh time for this coolant smell issue. Do you have what I am now calling "coolant cough"? I have it every winter since I got this vehicle. My dealership (this Dealership is new to me because I moved and this is their first attempt at fixing it. All other attempts were made by my previous dealership) has stated that they have ordered parts to "fix" this issue. Not sure what they are replacing/repairing, but I will know more Monday.


Not sure about the cough, but, I do have one. But, I've had it for years, and its from some meds that I've been taking.. 

I'm outta my 3/36 warranty, so, it'll either have to be a factory recall, or, something the dealer is willing to do, to try to fix it..


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Contact Chevy Customer Care so they can get you the solution before you waste time going back and forth with service department. Moving the tank won't change anything as the cooling fan will still force the fumes inside. 


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Merc6 said:


> Contact Chevy Customer Care so they can get you the solution before you waste time going back and forth with service department. Moving the tank won't change anything as the cooling fan will still force the fumes inside.


If moving the tank won't fix the problem why is there no smell in the Aussie Cruze? Maybe there is something in the way it is put together and Chev should check to see if something is built differently?


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

The cruze hood prop rod clip is where the sonic coolant tank is, so i would think moving the tank would be harder than one would think. How/where is the sonic hood prop rod? The Buick Encore also uses the 1.4T and has the tank mounted further away like the sonic. 

My cruze has coolant smell any time its below 15F outside. not constantly but you definitely get a whiff every 30 minutes or so. above 30-40degrees it never smells at all. My smell is the surge tank venting, the smell got slightly better when the dealer added the longer tank vent.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Really would hate to lay out another couple hundred bucks for a professional cooling system pressure tester when I already have one with adapters that will handle any radiator cap ever invented. But they don't use radiator caps anymore.

Yet another special purpose tool. Seem to have a box full of special purpose tools that I can't even remember what they were for. But know I needed them at the time for whatever vehicle they were for rather than lay out a small fortune to a shop someplace.

Are they making improvements? In my opinion and experience, the answer is a big fat NO! Just changes. But you can bet, if my Cruze has cooling system problems after warranty, will be laying out that couple of hundred bucks. 

Tell myself, should load up my trailer and get rid of some of these old computer systems I have, but not easy to part with a computer I laid out 6,000 bucks for and only got a year use out of it. Or a color bar generator that I no longer have any use for. The list goes on and on. Call that built in obsolesce.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Aussie said:


> If moving the tank won't fix the problem why is there no smell in the Aussie Cruze? Maybe there is something in the way it is put together and Chev should check to see if something is built differently?


No clue if we have same part numbers or manufacturers for the tank as I see your brakes are on the other side of the bay. I have mine and quite a few others have their bottles in the stock location and have never smelled coolant. I had a quick scare where it was low but with no smells and once topped offed 2000 miles ago it hasn't moved or smelled. I can smell the washer fluid when I spray the windows and can tell when the dealership topped it off. I'm gonna knock on wood since I have no clue how PA and NJ dealerships are. I foresee if the pump goes it will be out of state. 


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Hi newsguy99 and chuzcruze,

Feel free to send us a PM if you are looking for some assistance working with your dealerships to get this issue resolved. I know you spoke with Erica last week chuzcruze but I am not sure if it was for this same issue or for something else. Let us know if we can assist by sending us a PM. We will both be in on Monday! Have a great night. 

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## ehousel (Nov 1, 2013)

if its coming from the overflow tank why not just turn on the recirc air and open a window every so often?


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

The normal operating temps of this engine will have coolant smell coming in with the windows down. With it being winter in our area, the windows cracked may not be the best option.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Of course the reservoir cap must have a good seal on the cap and the cap must be on tight. Reservoir sees the full pressure of the cooling system.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

NickD said:


> Of course the reservoir cap must have a good seal on the cap and the cap must be on tight. Reservoir sees the full pressure of the cooling system.


The issues people were having was either the cap or the surface of the tank where the cap is suppose to seal. 


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I know my cap doesn't seal entirely properly at the full pressure it's supposed to run at. I fight the smell that comes when my reservoir is completely full by lowering the coolant level a bit. Most of the time, unless I just shut the engine off, I smell absolutely nothing. 

I'm too lazy to fight this battle with the dealer. I don't know if the whole tank needs to be replaced, or just the cap, but I may try it at some point. As long as I'm not LOSING coolant rapidly (I have only had to top it off twice in a year and half), I really don't care.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> I know my cap doesn't seal entirely properly at the full pressure it's supposed to run at. I fight the smell that comes when my reservoir is completely full by lowering the coolant level a bit. Most of the time, unless I just shut the engine off, I smell absolutely nothing.
> 
> I'm too lazy to fight this battle with the dealer. I don't know if the whole tank needs to be replaced, or just the cap, but I may try it at some point. As long as I'm not LOSING coolant rapidly (I have only had to top it off twice in a year and half), I really don't care.


It is always(from what I seen) a cooling system issue in the 1st 2 years of a redesigned GM car. 97-98 Buick Century/Regal had this issue where the radiator neck was not perfectly smooth. Wanna say 06-07 Impala had similar water pump issues we had in 11-12 Cruzen. Trying to save a few pennies always cost them dollars every time. As for me, I still haven't smelled the coolant vent nor see the level drop since my appropriate level post.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> I know my cap doesn't seal entirely properly at the full pressure it's supposed to run at. I fight the smell that comes when my reservoir is completely full by lowering the coolant level a bit. Most of the time, unless I just shut the engine off, I smell absolutely nothing.
> 
> I'm too lazy to fight this battle with the dealer. I don't know if the whole tank needs to be replaced, or just the cap, but I may try it at some point. As long as I'm not LOSING coolant rapidly (I have only had to top it off twice in a year and half), I really don't care.


Not a drop lost in two years now, besides everything else, have to tighten the living daylights with that cap. When I first got my Cruze, cap was ready to fall off. Used a magic marker with a strong light for a line right over the coolant level so I can see that level. Seem to have a problem reading lightly engraved white letters on a white background under the shade of the hood.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

jblackburn said:


> As long as I'm not LOSING coolant rapidly (I have only had to top it off twice in a year and half), I really don't care.


Same here, had to add a 4 inches to the surge tank in 36,000 miles(a couple inches every fall). I also only keep the tank half full, as full caused the smell to be much worse/more often.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

A much easier solution for the excessive pressure build up would be to reprogram the ECU to run the car 10 degrees (F) cooler. It appears that those who have the Trifecta Tune don't have the coolant odors from the surge tank.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

I did question that 221*F on the DIC, is this for thermodynamic efficiency?

On the other hand, can close all vents except one, max heat, put a hot dog on a stick and roast it, so you can have a hot lunch when driving.


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## WhiteAndBright (Mar 4, 2013)

The coolant smell isn't from the antifreeze tank, its from inside the vehicle.. 
They used a Glycol based lube in the air ducts, when the heat is on it warms
the lube witch puts off an antifreeze smell..

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-service-issues/5843-antifreeze-smell-thread.html


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

NickD said:


> I did question that 221*F on the DIC, is this for thermodynamic efficiency?
> 
> On the other hand, can close all vents except one, max heat, put a hot dog on a stick and roast it, so you can have a hot lunch when driving.


Yup. And emissions I suppose. If you demand more power, such as going up a hill or going for a pass, you'll see that temperature display drop like a rock as the car opens the thermostat entirely and decreases temperature to reduce knock.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

WhiteAndBright said:


> The coolant smell isn't from the antifreeze tank, its from inside the vehicle..
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-service-issues/5843-antifreeze-smell-thread.html


Mine's definitely the tank and not the heater box - there have been reports of both.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

WhiteAndBright said:


> The coolant smell isn't from the antifreeze tank, its from inside the vehicle..
> They used a Glycol based lube in the air ducts, when the heat is on it warms
> the lube witch puts off an antifreeze smell..
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-service-issues/5843-antifreeze-smell-thread.html


It can also be from the engine bay. One of the problems is that the temperature is run so high that the pressure in the surge/capture/refill tank goes above the 20 PSI rated on the cap and the pressure is released from the cap. If you have the coolant dye in your car you can see flecks of coolant dye in the vent channel. It's this vent that PI-0940 routes to the underside of the engine with that stupid hose. Dropping the temperature even 10 degrees will reduce the pressure in this tank and you won't get the overpressure and subsequent venting. In the North American Cruze, this vent is about a foot directly in front of the main HVAC intake vent at the base of the windshield - thus GM's long held belief that all the problems were coming from the engine bay.

For a complete rundown on cabin odors, take a look at http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...e-cabin-odors-sources-resolution-summary.html. There are multiple sources of this odor and thus multiple resolutions.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

The fluid tank should have air space at the top to allow for expansion and if the space is too small the fluid has to go somewhere. If you look at the fluid tank in my first post in this thread the level is where the factory set it and it hasn't moved at all in 16 months.


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

I would love to see them reprogram this thing to run at a lower temp. I've always thought, 220+ was way too high.. Love to see 185-205... Most likely would never have another issue.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

If you think insect buildup is bad on your side view mirrors, windshield, and the front of your vehicle, should look on the inside of your condenser. Restricts air flow, and during the insect season, made much worse when the AC is on.

Bit disappointed with the Cruze on this issue, can't clean these off from the top, have to remove the lower cover. But after awhile develop an appetite for dead bugs, when you brush them off, drop down into your face and mouth.

First frost eliminates this problem, say goodbye to the bugs, hello to the road salt.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

When I was a youngster in the Australian Bush insects were a real problem causing cars to overheat in summer. The cure was really simple you could buy a cover for the grill made from mosquito gauze and it made cleaning off the dead insects really easy as it just clipped on. And on the hood a small plastic wedge shape was put on the leading edge and would fling insects to both sides reducing windscreen splatter. Outside mirrors weren't a problem either, we didn't have any then.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

My latest freezer doesn't even have a condenser, welded a long piece of tubing inside of the external case with plenty of thermal contact and area for heat dissipation. 

And because there is no need for all those fins that have to be constantly cleaned in a lumped condenser, this problem is history. And also no need for a blower motor that can seize up causing additional problems. When I first saw this freezer, was extremely impressed, a very intelligent design.

Not a reason why they couldn't adopt this concept with automotive. Believe they call this thinking outside of the box. Ha, VW Beetle was sure pushing there concept way back in the 50's. You will never have cooling system problems, simply because it does not have a conventional cooling system.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

NickD said:


> Not a reason why they couldn't adopt this concept with automotive. Believe they call this thinking outside of the box. Ha, VW Beetle was sure pushing there concept way back in the 50's. You will never have cooling system problems, simply because it does not have a conventional cooling system.


Just couldn't run them at low RPMs or they'd overheat quickly since they relied on the fan for cooling


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I read an article in a Motor Magazine many years ago about doing away with the engine fan and the conventional radiator and making a barrel shaped radiator that spun from a pulley to keep the engine cool. The way this article was written the writer was expecting this to become standard, but I haven't seen anything about it since. Maybe a water tight connection to the engine was too hard. With modern technology and electric drive it could work as it was very compact.


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## Bullet (Aug 9, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> Just couldn't run them at low RPMs or they'd overheat quickly since they relied on the fan for cooling


We had no such problems here in Northern Countries of Europe. People just felt them too cold inside, mostly because of broken heat exchangers under the car. If everything in trim, those were quite warm. More the older ones with no cold air intakes.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Typically, 85% of this wasted heat goes out the exhaust, engine cooling is only responsible for the other 15%, but about 85% of our gas bill is in the form of wasted heat.

Long time Carnot cycle for IC engines claim the maximum efficiency can only reach 50%, but automotive is not even close to this theoretic efficiency. One four story high container ship diesel engine claims to hit 60% with an extremely long stroke low rpm engine. Kind of shoots down the Carnot cycle theory.

Turbines can hit around 30% for aircraft engines, the blades become progressively larger and a bunch of those to get the most out of this heat energy. Least the stroke of the 1.4L turbo is larger than the bore, an under square engine as it is called. But for years, the cheapest way to get more HP was to increase the bore and that is the way it was done. So much for fuel economy.

Coolant capacity of the 1.4L is only 1.45 gallons of which half of it is water. So losing less than a quart of it, will have air bubbles circulating in your engine and with all this plastic and aluminum, can really be hazardous to its health.

On other vehicles with a large space between the grille and the condensers, installed aluminum screen like on your home windows. Angled down, larger bugs would hit it and drop off, only leaving some smaller ones that could be easily brushed off with your hand. Also protected the condenser against stone chips. 

Never ever had a problem by doing this, the Cruze is a far greater challenge with that minimum space, so haven't done anything yet.

But not a vehicle manufacturer recommended practice, it likes that want you to have leaking condenser and overheating problems.


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