# 2014 Diesel Cruze will not start



## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I have a 2014 that will not start. I just bought it as is and am at the bottom of the learning curve still. It has 243K miles. The interior is very nice and the car looks to have much less mileage than 243K. 

I checked the DTCs and it came up with five of them. 
1) P0098 Intake Air Temp Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
2) P00F5 Intake Air Humidity Sensor Circuit High Input
3) P227D Barometric Pressure Sensor "C" Circuit High
4) P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High
5) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination

I'm pretty sure the MAP sensor has the IAT2 and Barometric pressure incorporated into it. With all of them out I suspect cleaning the MAP won't help and the +5V supply voltage is suspect. I'm hoping that hunting down this issue will be enough to see the car run for the first time.

I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.

The fifth one P069E cleared and did not come back. It now just has the first four. I suspect that one was affected by the previous owner installing an injection pump. They claimed to have replaced it. 

I purchased the 2014 Diesel Cruze from a family that likes to buy broken cars and flip them. This one has not been running for at least the 7 months while they owned it. The family replaced the injection pump supposedly. The EGR looks brand new so I think they replaced that too. I wasn't too impressed by their mechanical prowness. They seemed to have given up because it would not crank. I watched them demonstrate that by putting a dinky little jumpstarter on the totally discharged battery. It was just barely strong enough to turn on dash lights and to put it into neutral. I was surprised how dismayed they seemed to be when it would not crank.

When I got it home I replaced the battery and it immediately cranked properly. They didn't seem to understand that jumpstarter packs often don't work with fully discharged batteries even in low torque gas motors. There should be at least 8V on the battery for the jumpstarter to help. 

I got it with a totally empty coolant reservoir. That worries me a tad. The oil is a normal diesel black without signs of water or unusual wear. It sounds fine as it cranks. The seller claimed to have compression tested the motor without issue. I'm hoping the engine is okay.

We have a 2015 Cruze (1.4L Gas motor) that has already gone through two head gaskets at 120K. We've been looking for a diesel Cruze for a long time and this one will still be the cheapest I've found even if I have to replace the motor. Hopefully the issue is just sensor or emissions related.

I want to get the car running and confirm the condition of the motor quickly. If it checks out the budget for possible motor replacement can be applied to getting an EFI Live tool and license. I've been reading those threads here on the forum and I'm excited to improve the car past its stock configuration.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i entered thread to say egr, but thats not it in this car

im all out of suggestions then


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

First thing I did was check the EGR. Its brand new. I just looked at Live Data on my scanner and all the sensors return reasonable values. I think the codes are "permanent" codes that are cleared and will automatically delete themselves after its driven. Our 2015 gas Cruze saves misfire codes like that too. I suspect the car flippers replaced lots of stuff shotgun style and all those sensors are actually new. Without knowing a clear history I might drain the fuel and focus on the glow plugs next. It sounds like its trying to start when it cranks so I would believe its just disconnected glow plugs.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I see the glow plug symbol flash across the dash when I turn the key. I read that its really fast in these cars so that might be normal. It bothers me that you can't see it lit like a 6.5L GMC or a 1983 VW turbodiesel. I've driven those and I used to cycle the key at least three times to let the heat dissipate into the engine. The light would stay on much longer and I just needed to see voltage at the plugs to check the wires. This seems much different. Even if I see the correct ohms across the individual glowplugs I don't know how to really know they have the engine properly prepped to start. I wonder if I can see the heat increase by putting a laser temperature gauge on the exterior of the engine?


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## shimmy816 (Aug 22, 2020)

for a good manual I use the online chilton at chiltondiy.com It is a subscription but it has been worth it. It seems to be pretty close to the dealership manuals.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

shimmy816 said:


> for a good manual I use the online chilton at chiltondiy.com It is a subscription but it has been worth it. It seems to be pretty close to the dealership manuals.


Thats a great tip, thanks. I may try that next.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I looked at the live data and my first idea was that it was a 5,000 psi main pump output and a 100 psi feed pump from the tank. Turns out that was command pressure and the 100 psi was actual pressure. I finally decided to give a shot of starter fluid into it and it kicked over a few times while I watched the live values start to spike up. All of a sudden the live pressure matched the command pressure and it ran just fine. 

The new injection pump wasn't primed and was having trouble pushing out the air. It ran until it got warm and then I saw a gyser of water coming from a blown coolant line in the back of the engine. That explains why the coolant bottle was empty when I bought it. I'll need to replace that line next before its maiden voyage.


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## shimmy816 (Aug 22, 2020)

awesome.. sounds like you are on the way to getting it running good. I love my diesel it suprises a lot of people... thats a diesel?. also when modded just right they can be pretty quick too.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Boathook36 said:


> I purchased a repair manual from an ebay seller. Its terrible. They sent me a PDF of a 2013 repair manual and another PDF with the 2.0L diesel rebuild instructions. The 2013 manual lacks any diesel code description or sensor troubleshooting info. It isn't even close to what I need or what the description promised.


I made that mistake the other day. I got my money back. The manuals they have are detailed but are for the overseas vehicle - the Diesel addendum is for the LPN 2.0 not the LUZ 2.0. Different engine.

Just ask for a refund and tell them it's not the right engine, you'll get your money back.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

What is the model name for the transmission? I saw a post on this forum stating it was an Aisan unit. Is it the same transmission in my 2015 gasoline Cruze as the 2014 diesel?

I'm a fan of the Aisan AW4. They are much more robust than the Chrysler 42RE equivalents. I've rebuilt Ford Ranger and Explorer transmissions and some Chrysler ones. I install clear fuel filters backwards on the return lines. They fill with grey sludge until the filter element pops free and the fluid bypasses it. If you put it with the arrow pointing correctly it crushes down and starves the transmission once its clogged. Putting it in backwards you don't need to watch it closely because it just stops filtering when its done. The back pressure overcomes the glue and pops the element free long before it bothers the transmission. The Ford and Chrysler trannies are notorious for blown solenoids just because the filter in the pan is a pathetic micron size. The fluid quickly turns to grey sludge from all the fine dust that easily slips through the main filter. I found the fluid would turn totally clear and a beautiful red color after four or five fuel filters and I pulled a few out of limp mode just by doing that. The little screens around the control solenoids get clogged up and then the piston jams. If you get it clean fast enough the solenoid frees up before the coil burns up. I'll be doing the same thing to this Cruze soon. I've used spin on filters meant for hydraulic systems but I've come to prefer the backwards fuel filter the best because I can see what's going on inside it. I had one crack and leak once so I keep a screwdriver and coupler in the car in case that happens. Once its very red I keep the metal coupler in place of the plastic filter so I don't need to watch it closely or worry about it leaking while my wife is driving. The coupler is two male pneumatic fittings ("Industrial hose quick disconnect plugs") with male/female pipe threads to butt them together. I cut out 2" of straight metal pipe and use 5/16" fuel hose and double hose clamps to install them. I've found the air hose fittings work just as well as real brass hose barbs (unless its 60 PSI EFI stuff) and much cheaper. 

Without maintence records and with 243K miles I'm just going to work way through fluid changes. I think it needs struts too. It sits much lower than our other Cruze. It sure accelerates better and runs much smoother than our 1.4L gas Cruze. We're very happy with it already.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

shimmy816 said:


> I love my diesel it suprises a lot of people... thats a diesel?. also when modded just right they can be pretty quick too.


I sure do agree! Its already much quicker than I expected. My wife complained about the noise of the engine at first but once the hood was closed and she was inside she agreed its very quiet. Then she drove it and now she loves it. I'm really impressed how smooth and quick it accelerates compared to the old stuff I've driven. Its considerably better than our 1.4L Cruze in every way.

My father once got pulled over in his 1983 Turbodiesel VW Quantum. Its a generic sedan much like the Cruze. The cop complained about the smoke and was totally shocked to hear it was a diesel. He often had people talk to him in parking lots and such. I'm fully expecting my wife to experience the same attention while driving this. The Quantum has been sitting for the past 5 years and once this new Cruze started for the first time he was asking me to get that car spruced back up and back on the road too. That engine rattle is addicting.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)




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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I've been reading that my 2015 1.4L has a 6T40 transmission. The 1.8L was downgraded to a 6T30 and eventually the 1.4L was downgraded to a 6T35 in 2016. I'm guessing our 2.0L Diesel Cruzes used a 6T45 or 6T40. I haven't found any concrete info yet. I would snag a spare transmission if I could and its much easier to find 1.4L donors than 2.0L.

Now I see reference to the "Aisin AF60" under the transmission ratios thread. Wikipedia calls it an AWTF-80. It sounds like its much better than the 6T40 and not at all compatible. I did see advertisements for the transmission controller that implied it was the same unit for both.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Boathook36 said:


> I've been reading that my 2015 1.4L has a 6T40 transmission. The 1.8L was downgraded to a 6T30 and eventually the 1.4L was downgraded to a 6T35 in 2016. I'm guessing our 2.0L Diesel Cruzes used a 6T45 or 6T40. I haven't found any concrete info yet. I would snag a spare transmission if I could and its much easier to find 1.4L donors than 2.0L.
> 
> Now I see reference to the "Aisin AF60" under the transmission ratios thread. Wikipedia calls it an AWTF-80. It sounds like its much better than the 6T40 and not at all compatible. I did see advertisements for the transmission controller that implied it was the same unit for both.


the car has aisin af40-6 trans, same as tf-80sc

its way better than any gm trans

same that the aw4 is better than any chrysler trans

i have 2 1998 xjs with aw4, both over 350,000km each....one of them i changed the overdrive solenoid, the other ive done nothing to...just fluid and filter erry 80,000km


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

boraz said:


> the car has aisin af40-6 trans, same as tf-80sc
> 
> its way better than any gm trans


Ours is a piece of ****.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

In my lifetime fleet, I’ve had THM125C, 700R4, 4L60E, 4T80E, and AF40-6. My ownership experiences with this Aisin transmission make me pine for a return to GM transmissions.


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## shimmy816 (Aug 22, 2020)

just from experience pushing the diesel way past where it should be .. for reliability get a external trans cooler do a trans change even though it is supposed to be sealed.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

It still running great as I hit the 200 mile mark since I got it. "Running Great" is relative to my very low expectations. It is much smoother and faster than our other Cruze. The fuel mileage is frankly bad and it is very hard to start while cold. I'm attributing that first to the remaining check engine codes and then maybe increased back pressure from old emissions components. I bet they are pretty well clogged up in those canisters after 243K miles.

The codes left to fix are:

1) P069E Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination.
2) P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit

It is very hard to start when cold. I have to cycle the key at least six times sometimes. I knew I must have some work to do with the glow plugs and now this code is here. I think I found the glow plug control module by the picture on Rockauto of what a new one looks like. It looks like its near the passenger side headlight. I haven't figured out where the actual glow plugs are yet. I should pull them all to clean and ohm out the wires.

I read that the P069E could be from some plastic shutter doodad on the underside of the car. It goes away and comes back around the 50 degree mark so that seems to match up as the culprit.

The Eco tab reports 20 mpg average with 30 mpg average on a long trip with over an hour on the highway. That seems low to me. 

We're looking at saving up for the downpipe and an Autoscan V3. The majority of the used ones I'm spotting for sale are V2 and I'm really hoping to get a V3. I also see alot of ones that look like V2 with a fancy sticker on the front from third party tuning packages. I'm avoiding them because I figure I'll need to get another VIN license because the tuner and the end user both used up the two VINs they typically come with direct from EFI Live. Maybe someone here can provide first hand experience with how that works. 

I'm really hoping the tuning files from the now defunct brands like Oz or whoever can be found and saved externally. I figure they are fair game to share now that you're not affecting the sale of future customers. I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve for all that.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I was down for awhile with the car nearly impossible to start. I purchased new glow plugs. It looks like three of the glow plugs were newer than the fourth and it was the dark fourth one that was totally shot. The next problem was that the threads came out very rounded. I was not risking further damage to the threads so I purchased a tap to chase the threads. Its 9mm x 1.0 for the tap. Of course I purchased a 10 x 1.0 tap and die first and putting the die on the old glow plugs proved it was too loose. The second time I got them through NAPA and was pleasantly surprised they are much cheaper and faster for individual tap and dies than Amazon.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The dark glow plug wasn't fully seated into the cylinder head because the threads were too bad. Only about five turns got tight. I had to use the die on an old glow plug and keep running that down because the tap didnt have enough threads to stay straight. The long shank of the glow plug kept it straight and the smaller softer threads helped clean up the burr slowly. Eventually the tap was able to put good threads in and now all four thread fully in with finger tension. I like that it doesn't get tight until the bottom is fully seated and sealed. 

The car still doesn't start and the glowplug symbol flashes up for less than a second. I'm thinking the module died too. I'm going to bypass the module and see if starts before looking for other possible causes.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

We have about two thousand miles on the car already. After finding the badly cross-threaded glow plugs and retapping and replacing them the car still did not start. Turns out the starter was in bad shape and then the high pressure fuel line on the brand new fuel injection pump was installed improperly by the previous owners. It had popped off. Those three things took about a month to figure out and it has been running well since.

We got one flat and I tried to use the spare tire from our other Cruze. I had figured on grabbing a spare tire from a gas Cruze at a junkyard. I was rather surprised to find the bolt pattern is different. The gas Cruzes have a 5x105mm pattern and the Diesel uses 5x115mm. I'm not aware of any other car that uses 5x115mm. I'm going to try a spare from my old Jeep Cherokee next. Thats 5x4.5" which comes rather close at 5x114.7mm. I haven't tried it yet. The tiny doughnut spare has very little backspacing so it might be okay. I probably need at least a 16" rim to clear the caliper brackets. The Jeep 16" and 17" wheels are usually 5x5". All the 5x4.5" Jeep wheels I have are 15". I think the Rubicon wheels from 2003-2006 might be the only compatible donor I've found so far and those are only 16". I'll keep looking.

I replaced the tires with one size larger. They are 215/65R17. The tires are 28" diameter instead of 26-1/4" for the stock size (215/55R17). They fit well. I was prepared to clearance any rub spots and they fit without having to. Plenty of room even in hard bumps. It adds 1 MPH to every 20 MPH on the speedometer. If the speedometer says we're going 80 we're actually going 84. If it says 60 we're actually going 63. That extra girth around the rim made a huge difference in ride quality. It soaks up the potholes and rough roads much better. The nose clears most curbs now with that extra inch of ground clearance.

I still have a check engine light because my active grill shutter was found to be damaged. One of the pins corroded and broke off inside the plug. I think the 1.8L gas Cruzes used the same unit but I haven't found any of those yet. I may try to defeat it for now. I think the shutter gets 12V to activate on two pins then returns a ground on a third pin to indicate status. I could mimic that with a relay. I haven't tried it yet.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Verano doughnut spare for CTD


Will this fit the CTD 5 x 115 bolt pattern, 4 x 16 dia. Offset????




www.cruzetalk.com


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Boathook36 said:


> I'm not aware of any other car that uses 5x115mm.


Plenty do. Malibu, 1st gen Volt, Verano, ATS, all the old W-Bodies...

As @Tomko posted, the Verano is the favorite for a spare tire, because the Diesel uses Verano brakes.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Thanks for mentioning the Verano. I had never even heard of one before that. There is one at the local yard for me to check out. 

The horn doesn't work. There is power at the fuse. I checked the connections from underneath and there is no obvious issue. Its time to quit grumbling about it and full the front clip to keep trouble-shooting. I'm planning on working on the active grill shutters at the same time.


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## shimmy816 (Aug 22, 2020)

front bumper not to bad... just all the stupid little plastic push connections that half break when you pull them.. buy some before you start......experience......lol


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I'll never buy those dang things. I put everything together with old scrap pieces of 12G Romex wire.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I finally fixed my active shutters today. The previous owner replaced the assembly but the plug has one of the four pins exposed more than the other three. Through the hole you can see heavy green copper oxide and a broken pin jammed inside it. I poured sulfuric acid drain cleaner into a glass shotglass and dunked it for about 30 seconds. When all the green oxide was gone I rinsed it thoroughly. I've used better combinations of cleaning products to etch corroded PCB boards before but this worked okay for this. Its nice bright bare copper all the way inside where I could never reach with a wire brush or file. I was able to dig out the broken pin with tweezers. Its plugged into the motor and fastened to the body separate from the shutter assembly. It worked and did its little startup dance and the code finally cleared. I expect it to last longer without the load of the shutters. The shutters themselves are wired tight in the open position by drilling a hole in the center. I have very little regard for whatever the heck the shutters are meant to accomplish.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Here's the plug after the acid bath and before digging out the broken pin. Its visible in this picture.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I also installed the dash camera today. I ran a 10 foot usb extension cable up through the B pillar trim and let it poke out next to the grab handle. From there a short cable is plugged into the dash camera. Its the cheapest camera I could find that supports a 256 gig microSD card. It was $150 at best buy. It has a second camera feed to face rearward to view both front and rear. It is powered on all the time and left recording even when parked. If I was to let the car sit for several days I just unplug it by the grab handle to keep from killing the battery. The plug turns off with the ignition normally but I defeated that by yanking the relay and jamming it shut. 

The interior fuse block swivels down to expose three relay slots on top. The plastic cover on the relay isn't hard to pop off. From there I jammed a spoon against the contact. That contact is normally pulled by the electromagnet to make contact then springs away once the electromagnet releases when the ignition turns off. My little chunk of spoon keeps the camera and phone chargers on all the time. The cover pops back on the relay and it looks unmodified so I write a big X on the top to remember which one I've defeated.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

This is a good picture to share. The limiting factor for tire size is the Strut to tire clearance. This space stays constant as the strut moves up and down with the spring. I did not need to modify anything at all and there was plenty of space around the tire everywhere else. I used 215/65R17 tires that are nearly 2" bigger than stock and the difference in ride quality is even much bigger than I expected. Its so much nicer with the extra cushion affect of having such tall sidewalls.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Boathook36 said:


> This is a good picture to share. The limiting factor for tire size is the Strut to tire clearance. This space stays constant as the strut moves up and down with the spring. I did not need to modify anything at all and there was plenty of space around the tire everywhere else. I used 215/65R17 tires that are nearly 2" bigger than stock and the difference in ride quality is even much bigger than I expected. Its so much nicer with the extra cushion affect of having such tall sidewalls.


Good lord that is way too much sidewall. Even with the stock "sport" suspension on the diesel, the 215/55R17 is plenty comfortable.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I'm fixing this up for my wife to drive Uber in Philly. She drove 60K miles last year and beat the snot out of the gas Cruze with several flats and a tire unbeaded from the rim. When there are weekend bonus promotions she sticks to the rough areas all day and its all zipping through back alleys and over sidewalks. I've already had to drive my van an hour away and rebead her tire with lighter fluid to get it home among several late night tire repairs. Before COVID I once had to steal a tire off the display rack at a 24 hour Walmart to switch on to her car to get it home. 

We welcome the thought that extra sidewall could prevent a repeat event. I saved the stock tires that came off to make some full size spares or to prevent another midnight Walmart raid. 

The attached pictures show old versus new. I only replaced two initially to make sure they would clear. I also included the picture of the old tire unbeaded from the rim. That event prompted me to do it sooner than later. 

Our driveway is brutal. My family drives SUVs and trucks that make the Cruze feel like a Go-cart so we never care to fix the rough spots. The difference in ride quality is mostly measured in how well it now drives across the same driveway every day that used to be jarring and painful for her. 

Happy wife, happy life. It was money well spent.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

...why is she driving over sidewalks? That seems like you could easily solve the problem by...not driving over sidewalks...?


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

We drove to the hospital to have our daughter in our 1980 Turbodiesel IH Scout Traveler. With her water broken I had her sit on the plastic shower curtain to keep my seats safe, of course. We drove over medians, sidewalks, maybe a pedestrian or two. I guess she got a taste for it then. That deep diesel grumble just makes her want to hop a curb.

Its surprising how often people stop in the middle of narrow one-way roads in Philly and put on their hazards and just exit the vehicle and walk away. It boggles the mind. The definition of what is road is up for interpretation based on what you're able to drive over. 

The black air dam trim below the facia used to snag on the 6x6 lumber we use as a curb stop in the driveway. A 2" taller tire lifts the facia 1" which now clears the 6x6 so she can park the tire tight to the curb stop. We're happy about it.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

There have been one or two Cruzes on this site that have actually been lifted successfully...might be a worthwhile idea if you're looking for some further extra ride height.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

It broke down today. It is in need of a service regen. It cut off with codes P2455 "Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor "A" High" and P2453 and P22A1. The extra height helped it get up the tow ramp without dragging.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Replacing the DPF Canister was much more difficult than I expected. After it was loose it did not want to drop out of the car. I had to remove the engine mount to finally get it out. Even that was surprisingly hard. The upper bolt is barely accessible by a Ujoint and a long extension poked up through the radiator fan.

With the DPF removed it is able to drive but its in "reduced power" mode. Our horn isn't working and I confirmed its a bad relay before attempting to remove the fuse box assembly. It irks my soul that the horn relay isnt accessible without replacing the entire fuse box. Since futzing with the fuse box several sensors lost power and it has been barely running since. It wasnt able to do a regen and that killed the DPF. 

Two of the three lower flange bolts broke. Ive got the backside ground smooth and I still couldnt beat out the broken studs. Im driving it with just one stud until I find time to drill out the other two.

I tried to remove the oil drain plug and the head stripped totally round from frickin' numbnuts overtightening it. That will be fun to fix. Its due an oil change and I can't change it yet.

I think I'm getting close to "done." Let's hope.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The Horn works now. I took apart the fuse box and attempted to figure out which relay was bad. I popped off the covers and scratched at the contact surfaces. When it went back together the horn was healed.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Boathook36 said:


> Replacing the DPF Canister was much more difficult than I expected. After it was loose it did not want to drop out of the car. I had to remove the engine mount to finally get it out. Even that was surprisingly hard. The upper bolt is barely accessible by a Ujoint and a long extension poked up through the radiator fan.


had none of these issues removing my dpf, im not understanding what youve done


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

There is a bracket supporting the middle of the DPF. Two nuts on the DPF come off easy but the bracket wouldnt allow the DPF past. The second picture shows that.
















I couldn't get to the two 13mm nuts on the engine block without removing the engine mount and lifting the engine up just a little. The upper engine mount bolt was accessed through the radiator fan with a Ujoint and long extension.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Boathook36 said:


> There is a bracket supporting the middle of the DPF. Two nuts on the DPF come off easy but the bracket wouldnt allow the DPF past. The second picture shows that.
> View attachment 292884
> View attachment 292885
> 
> ...


copy

now i remeber that bracket...but also read your comment wrong , i thought you went THRU the fan like from the outside of the car 

when i did mine, i watched the yt video and read the tutorial on here, and didnt have to remove the engine mount though


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

boraz said:


> copy
> 
> now i remeber that bracket...but also read your comment wrong , i thought you went THRU the fan like from the outside of the car
> 
> when i did mine, i watched the yt video and read the tutorial on here, and didnt have to remove the engine mount though


You have to bend the pressure pipes a little bit to get it out at all.

In addition the manual has you remove... Quite a lot... From the engine bay. Including the intercooler pipe. None of this really helps the dpf get out but it does give some space for hands.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Snipesy said:


> You have to bend the pressure pipes a little bit to get it out at all.
> 
> In addition the manual has you remove... Quite a lot... From the engine bay. Including the intercooler pipe. None of this really helps the dpf get out but it does give some space for hands.


been a couple years, for sure never touched intercooler pipe, dont member bending pressure pipes, but i wasnt concerned with damaging it

what i remember is fussing with 10mm? nuts, like on heat shield or something, could only turn them 1/10000th of a turn or stuff was in the way, and rounding off the exhaust stud nuts


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I left the heat shield on and didn't touch any other parts. Once the engine tilted up (only about a half inch past where it could before the engine mount was off) it cleared the bracket and came out. It was already very close to clearing and maybe would have cleared with the heat shield off. If I did it again I'd still pop the three mount bolts before tackling all those heat shield bolts. I didn't remove the bracket off the engine until after the canister was gone. 

I initially thought I would have rather left the engine mount alone and popped the radiator fan out of the way. Theres just so many wires in the way and honestly I couldnt even see how the fan is attached. I gave up on that tactic pretty quick.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The car still has code P0103 "Mass Air Flow Sensor High" despite replacing the MAF. My live data shows that the MAF value is 30.4 lb/min at all times regardless if the new or old sensor is plugged in or even just unplugged. The IAT1 and IAT2 temperatures change as its plugged and unplugged. I've cut the plug off at the only crimp spot I saw a tiny crack in the insulation along the loom. Each pin shows continuity from the plug to the place I cut it at. Of course the sockets could still be loose. I found 5 volts on three of the eight bare wires.

Im not aware of any other sensors incorporated into the unit. Maybe barometric pressure? I thought maybe its a 0V and 5V input then maybe each ouput has a reference pair to account for 8 wires and 3 sensors. 

Im assuming there is a bad wire to blame. That seems more likely than a Dead On Arrival sensor. Its probably a variable resistor to ground. If it was a square wave output it would probably not report 30 lb/min while open. I figure on getting the pinout then shorting a ground to various places on the signal wire until I see the live data change to confirm continuity to the ECM. 

I have a PDF manual from ebay that is utterly useless. I may try the subscription service next to try to find documentation.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

We currently have 12,000 miles on the car since we got it this past April. The latest problem is a bad harmonic balancer. I haven't found any replacement listed at any of the usual auto parts places. It shakes the belt so bad it slaps the alternator bracket and makes some dreadful noises at low idle. One belt already broke and the next one is about half worn out already. 

The two smooth idler pulleys wore out along the way too. The tensioner is taking a beating as the belt slaps around. I ended up pulling both the idler pulleys from a 2008 Chrysler Pacifica with the 4.0L engine. The upper idler pulley now has the better bolt from the Pacifica and it was a big upgrade. The picture shows old versus new. The Pacifica bolt has the shoulder for the bearing integrated into the bolt and its much stronger and wobble free now. Down on the tensioner the outer washer on the lower idler pulley has a shoulder meant to stabilize the bearing. That was wiped out. The identical washer with shoulder was found on the Pacifica. My Cruze now has both Pacifica pulleys swapped in. The slightly larger lower pulley fit on the upper spot so I'm running the same pulley at both without an issue with the change. The upper used to be smaller than the lower pulley but now they are the same (Both Pacifica pulleys were identical to each other and to the lower larger pulley on the Cruze tensioner).


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I used the old washer from the upper idler pulley along with that black plastic in the picture. A 3/8" drill bit and a vise grip was used to enlarge the hole in the black plastic. The third picture shows that enlarged black plastic now in the interior of the opposite bearing it used to live inside of. The old upper washer just has a 3/8" hole so I married that together with the washer that engages the bearing. The second picture shows the two washers married together. The bearing doesn't wobble anymore with both washers working together.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Looking back, it seems I forgot to update after I fixed the MAP sensor. It was a short in the wiring harness under the fuse box on the way to the Active Grill Shutters. They share the same fuse. Removing the shutter motor didn't help because it was in the harness.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I've checked every parts store around and came up dry. I can't see a harmonic balancer listed anywhere. I'll try the dealerships on Monday.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The dealer didn't have a problem getting a "Balance Shaft" along with a new bolt for $115. The parts guy got a laugh out the wierd name and made sure to cross reference a picture to make sure it really was the harmonic balancer. 

The part number 55586935 "Vibration Damper" and 55204664 "Balancer Bolt" came up on a GM direct parts wholesaler website along with a nifty picture now that I have the actual part number to search with.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Since replacing the harmonic balancer I have also replaced the alternator and AC clutch. I used the AC Clutch from a 1.8L gas Cruze and can confirm they are exactly alike.

I had to replace the belt tensioner. I broke the old one open and was surprised to see it uses teflon pads as dry bearing surfaces. Mine wore through them and scored deep into the aluminum. I drilled and tapped a hole for a grease zerk on my replacement unit and pumped it full of grease. Between that and the upgraded thrust washer it is considerably smoother, quieter, and vibration free.

The alternator has a mechanism inside the pulley that I presume acts as a shock absorber. When it failed the front bearing froze. I was able to free up the main shaft and put a solid pulley from a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Alternator in its place. That worked great and made it much quieter for the 200 miles we drove while a new alternator was being shipped. The day before the part arrived the main shaft froze again and the bad alternator managed to stall the engine and prevent it from starting. I didn't realize it was the starter for a spell because I figured the belt would fail before the engine would stall. I also broke down the day before with a bad negative battery cable. Apparently there is a recall out for those because the crimp joint wasn't done properly. Mine totally separated and pulled apart when I tugged on it. I ran new ground wires and since then I get an annoying condition because the current sensor is bypassed.

We blew past 270K miles already and its been running very well.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The front tire recently fell off at highway speed. All 5 wheel studs sheared off at once. I found the wheel and the tire was sliced and ruined but the rim survived. There was no signs of being loose. I've seen a couple wheels driven loose and the rim is usually heavily scored and often ruined. This was very different. I figure it had been over-tightened in the past and just gave out after a really bad pothole she hit earlier that day. We had 269K miles at the time.

We now have 16" rims from a 2005 Chevy Equinox in the back. They work in the front too if your tires are smaller. The stock Equinox 16" tires are the same diameter as my oversize 17" tires that are still in the front. They have about a quarter inch difference in backspacing, however, so the Equinox tires have a slight rub against the strut if I use them in the front. A slightly smaller diameter tire would fix the rub. Instead I'll probably put a spacer in the front to fix the difference in backspacing. I noticed the new wheel studs are fully threaded versus the stock studs that don't have threads at the tip. I'll still have the same amount of thread as stock after adding the spacers. I only replaced the studs on the side that broke so far but I'll eventually do the other side as a precaution. I'll eventually find what box I hid the spacers I already own by then. I'll also need to add wheel sensors to those rims too. I'd like to use those tires up first because they have very few miles on them but are about 6 years old. I'd like to wear them bald before they reach 7 years. I also like the 1" increase in sidewall. 

I was able to straighten the fender for now. I haven't replaced the rotor yet. Its slightly out of balance now with all the road rash it endured after hitting pavement at 70 mph. Thankfully she was able to control it and the tire didn't hit anything.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

My oil drain plug was overtightened before I got the car. I tried several different methods to try to remove it and the hex head became stripped and totally round. I gave up and carefully drilled a hole in the tapped hole already in the front of the pan without damaging the existing threads. The DEF delete pipe didn't use the old oil pan mounting holes. The bottom one is now my oil drain. I park facing down a steep hill now and it seems to drain fast and thorough. The old M12 mounting bolt is working as my drain bolt thanks to a universal gasket. The gasket is rubber fused to a metal washer. It works great although its meant to be replaced at each oil change. In practice I replace it every other or every third oil change. I don't even need ramps anymore. Its easy to reach the bolt. I just put a jack under the passenger wheel to lift up just enough to fit the oil pan underneath. I also pop that tire off anyway to reach the filter.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)




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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The new tires are mounted on 16" rims from a 2005 Chevy Equinox. They are the same tire diameter as I upsized the original 17s. They sit a quarter inch back from the originals, which just makes my upsize hit the strut in the front. I'll add a spacer in the front to clear thanks to the extra quarter inch of threads on the new studs. You can see old vs new in this picture because I left it mismatched for now.

A nasty pothole left our brand new tire with the sidewall sliced open. That is instant death and cannot be repaired. Going to a 16" rim both increases the shock absorbtion of the tire but also lets me use E rated LT tires with much stronger sidewalls. Airing at 35 psi on a LT tire limited to 80 psi normally also makes for a very spongy very durable pothole eater. The negligble difference in fuel economy is worth preventing the multiple times she lost a whole days wages on downtime. We've killed several tires over the last 150K miles of full time ridesharing and each time were horrid events with lost wages and disgruntled customers. The difference in ride quality is pretty big, with stock tires feeling very harsh in comparison to our upsized setups.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The Cruze went into limp mode a bunch of times recently. It was a bad Camshaft Sensor. We're just shy of 276K miles.

When in limp mode it followed the same pattern. At start up the Tach jumps up and down during initialization but then it would rest at zero and stay there. The backup camera would not turn on while in reverse. The trans would stay in 2nd gear and reduced power which limits the speed to about 30 MPH. The first dozen times it happened it would clear and stay out of limp mode with a restart or two. Once clear it would stay out of limp mode and drive fine just as long as you didnt turn the engine off. 

The only new code to show up was P0341 "Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Performance". There is a code for a totally bad or unplugged sensor but that never showed up. The bad sensor was trying to work.

Several new ABS specific codes also showed up, which basically points to the ECU picking up wrong camshaft signals and calling it "invalid data." If the camshaft sensor puts out the wrong value at startup the computer just turns off the TCU because GM engineers are jerks. If you make it past the startup pitfall it was driving perfectly. 

1). U0101-71 Lost Communication with Transmission Control Module- Invalid Data

2). U0100-71 Lost Communication with Engine Control Module- Invalid Data

3). C0800-03 Control Module Power Circuit- Low Voltage

We were able to go the week waiting for the part by just constantly cycling the starter and quick throwing it in reverse to check it quicker. The backup camera working was a faster positive indicator than the Tach needle. The part itself is really easy to get to. Just two 10mm driven bolts to push a line out of the way and then one 10mm bolt on the sensor itself.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Boathook36 said:


> Several new ABS specific codes also showed up, which basically points to the ECU picking up wrong camshaft signals and calling it "invalid data." If the camshaft sensor puts out the wrong value at startup the computer just turns off the TCU because GM engineers are jerks. If you make it past the startup pitfall it was driving perfectly.



The CPS sensor is critical for the ECM's torque calculation. It's just a 'guess' on what torque the engine is making based on fuel, engine rpm, air, O2, etc....

Without that calculation, the ECM can't service torque requests.

The "TCU" is 90% torque reduction requests. 10% of it is wheel brakes.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Also don't forget the crankshaft variation relearn. This is very important even if the new sensor seems to work fine.

It's very simple you just command it, and slam on the throttle.

Camshaft doesnt require it. Words are too **** alike.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

It went back into limp mode after replacing the camshaft sensor. A new code showed up. Its P0016 which I think means a lack of corrolation between camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I have a new crank sensor ready to install. How do I command a crankshaft variation relearn? Maybe I should do that before and/or after replacing the CKS along with the CPS?


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Some googling came up with EFI Live instructions to do the Crankshaft Variance Relearn, although it said code P0341 must already be clear to do it. P0016 and P0341 are both there together. It drove about 100 miles on the new camshaft sensor before going back into limp mode. A dead out of box new sensor might be all there is to it.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

A new code showed up as P24A5 "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Control Valve Stuck." This time it runs horribly while in limp mode with smoke and no power. Before when in limp mode it ran as normal and accelerated right up to the speed limited by 2nd gear. Now it runs horribly also. Im guessing thats the line I moved to get to the Camshaft sensor coming off a valve on the intake hose before the turbo. Yay. The plot thickens. 

I found the crankshaft position sensor underneath the starter but dang if I can reach it well. I just drove it home to find a mirror before I switch that.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Boathook36 said:


> A new code showed up as P24A5 "Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Bypass Control Valve Stuck." This time it runs horribly while in limp mode with smoke and no power. Before when in limp mode it ran as normal and accelerated right up to the speed limited by 2nd gear. Now it runs horribly also. Im guessing thats the line I moved to get to the Camshaft sensor coming off a valve on the intake hose before the turbo. Yay. The plot thickens.
> 
> I found the crankshaft position sensor underneath the starter but dang if I can reach it well. I just drove it home to find a mirror before I switch that.


It’s a fault on the 5 (maybe 5.1V) power rail.

The sensors powered by said rail are the Dpf differential pressure sensor, camshaft position sensor, EGR position, EGR cooler actuator, engine oil pressure sensor, and Fuel Rail Pressure sensor.

Could be a wiring short. A internal short in one of those sensors. Or an ECM failure…. But the sensors themselves are likely fine.

I’d even call the ECM/ignition controls relay into question (#7 I think?). Not to be confused with the ignition main relay.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Also if someone wants to be nice and pull up the diagram I am talking about. I don’t have access to the Cruze manual.

It’ll just be called “5V1 and Low Reference Bus” or some other similar name. Another one will be called “Power, Ground, …..” which shows the power from the fuse box to the ECM.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Thats really good information, thanks. I can see Fuel Rail Pressure in the live data and I see 5V across the sensor outer pins and a smaller circa 5V at the middle pin that I think is a sensor output. Both observations contradict that theory.

I thought maybe my new sensor failed and then crowbarred the whole 5V rail down to short. I put in the old sensor. No change in running condition. I confirmed the 5V at the sensor. I didnt actually check 5V while the new sensor was installed but I was more concerned with restoring it to its previous condition. It was previously an intermittant limp mode on the old sensor with full engine power. It never went into limp mode while driving, only at startup. This time happened while in motion and hasnt cleared since, including a constant loss of power. It even sounds horrid as it runs.

There is a bad wheel speed sensor that is unplugged currently. There is a Exhaust Temp Sensor with a damaged wire that is unplugged. It has one bad NOX sensor. It shows a bad Fuel Temp Sensor. I dont know where that sensor physically is. Im guessing its part of the fuel pickup module in the tank. All of those are old conditions around for a couple months.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

What if the 5V rail is being pulled down by the EGR cooler valve itself? The CamPS could just be the most sensitive device on that common rail so the first to send up a red flag.

When I deleted the canister I got an EGR delete blankoff plate but did not install it. I figured if the tune never called for the EGR to open it would not float open by itself. The EGR was also brand new so well seated in its closed position without any crud to cause the valve to leak.

Is it possible for the sudden poor running condition to be caused by exhaust gas akin to an EGR valve stuck open? 

How does the blank off plate help? I thought the nose of the EGR formed the seal keeping the exhaust gas in one tube from continuing down another tube. Wouldnt I need to plug the feed tube coming from the exhaust before yanking the EGR?

What the heck is an EGR cooler? It looks like an interchanger being fed antifreeze to cool the EGR valve output hot gases before they reach the engine. Maybe corrosion caused a leak that is pushing antifreeze spray into my engine? Maybe the valve getting stuck pulled down the 5V rail just enough for invalid data from another sensor?


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I pulled the ECM up from where it clips to the battery tray and what I think is a vacuum valve moved freely on the bypass cooler. It looks like the vacuum comes from a solenoid valve up further forward. I unplugged that solenoid valve. The P24A5 "stuck open" code went away replaced by a P245A code "EGR Cooler Bypass Valve Control Circuit." I'll leave that unplugged for now.

I think the ABS codes are interesting. When in limp mode it shows "invalid data" from the TCU. That could be bad info from the CamPS or contradiction from the CamPS and CrankPS. But it also shows "C0800-03 Control Module Power Circuit- Low Voltage". That seems like it could be exclusive to a bus rail voltage issue.

If I had a second Cruze Id unplug the CamPS and see if that particular ABS code was present. If not Id conclude my CamPS and invalid data codes are just symptoms to a power problem.

Id like to check voltage at the TCU next, just havent figured out how to actually do that yet.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The low power and position sensor mismatch makes me wonder if the timing is off. I read the timing procedure and it seems overly complicated. Can I just align the marks and count belt teeth between them to check it didnt jump a tooth or two?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Boathook36 said:


> What if the 5V rail is being pulled down by the EGR cooler valve itself? The CamPS could just be the most sensitive device on that common rail so the first to send up a red flag.
> 
> When I deleted the canister I got an EGR delete blankoff plate but did not install it. I figured if the tune never called for the EGR to open it would not float open by itself. The EGR was also brand new so well seated in its closed position without any crud to cause the valve to leak.
> 
> ...


These error codes would not be caused by just general poor performance. There is definitely something electrical wrong.

The EGR cooler helps control the engine temp (especially during cold weather). It has a small intercooler effect as well for the EGR gasses. The most common EGR cooler failure just causes coolant to leak outside, but not inside the engine. I am not all that familiar with its exact mechanism.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I pulled the TCM wiring pinout and cut the ground, "power supply," and "key switch signal." All three checked out with a good ground and full battery voltage at the other two. I havent found any loss of voltage so far.

I figure low transmission fluid could cause power loss but it wouldnt be intermittant.

The timing belt is tight but it does shake more than it should, so the tensioner is suspect. It may have jumped a notch. Its my best guess presently.

The camshaft sprocket has a very little wobble to it so that may be affecting the sensor, since it looks like a hall effect reading off the backside of the wheel. I doubt it but its something to consider. I wish I could rent an oscilloscope to see the actual sensor output. I may even buy one. I've used them a bunch in the past.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Boathook36 said:


> The timing belt is tight but it does shake more than it should, so the tensioner is suspect. It may have jumped a notch. Its my best guess presently.


The car is back on the road and the dust has settled. That hunch ended up being exactly the answer. The timing belt had jumped three cogs (out of 199 total on the belt). The belt itself was in decent shape and wasn't the cause of the problem. Obviously I replaced the belt while I had it apart. The previous owner had replaced the fuel injection pump and apparently failed to tighten the tensioner. It walked free and ate a groove against the backside of the belt at the idler pulley. The shake at the camshaft sprocket went away once the new belt was on and the tensioner was properly tightened.

Initially it ran okay and just had an intermittent Camshaft sensor code along with occasional limp mode at startup. I'll assume that was with one notch off. Eventually it refused to get out of limp mode and it started to run with noticeable less power. I'll assume that was with two notches off. I replaced the Camshaft position sensor and it got out of limp mode with the new sensor. The power didn't come back but it was still driving okay. Then it suddenly went into limp mode while driving for the first time (previously it would stay out of limp mode as long as it cleared ECM/TCU handshaking at startup). The engine started to run much worse in a way that seemed like obvious poor timing complete with smokey exhaust and puke noises. I figure that was the exact moment it hopped the third notch on the loose timing belt. At that point the old Camshaft Sensor code (P0341) present at all limp mode events came back along with a new code showing a Crankshaft to Camshaft "correlation error" (P0016). 

Hopefully posting that description will help someone diagnose their car sooner if they also experience a stretched or loose timing belt. I can now also say with confidence that three notches isn't enough to smack a valve against a piston. Its back up and running well.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

While the car was down I finally had time to drop the oil pan. What a frickin' pain. The damaged oil drain plug got drilled out. I had to oversize and retap the hole. Its now a 3/4-16 x 1" bolt. Thankfully I found a very narrow very thick washer at tractor supply in their thrust washer section over by PTO parts. The gasket is meant for an M22-1.5 oil plug, which is the next largest standard size if I have to retap it again in the future. The hole is elongated and the threads are fragile at the very opening but the bolt has about 5/8" worth of perfect threads down deeper. I had to get a 2" bolt and then trim it down to 1" using a bandsaw so its not tapered. I tracked down a real oil drain plug with the correct size but ditched it because it had a taper and would have damaged the threads in no time.

I installed the oil pickup conversion part I got from the ebay seller based in Poland. It is a very nice upgrade with a much better fit and function over the stupid OEM version. The old gasket was extremely brittle and just crumbled. I bet I was very close to losing oil pressure. I'm quite happy to have that upgrade finally done.

I broke the stupid oil return line on the backside of the pan. It would not have broken if they used a hex bolt. The dang Torx bolt was terribly stripped and just breaking the line was the only way to get the pan out. I ended up having to yank the starter and cutting the whole line out and replacing it with 3/8" fuel hose. The fuel hose fit the lower barb perfectly but the upper barb was bigger. I could barely get the hose on it and many a curse was uttered. I almost broke down and put a 1/2" hose to a male to male barb to step down the size. There really isn't enough clearance to add the rigid barbs with how it makes an S around the starter, however. I ended up stretching the end with needle nose long enough to get it to fit. I also added hose clamps.

The stripped torx bolt looks like it was overtightened by a previous install and the old RTV at the oil pan gasket face looked crude and lumpy. One of the two rubber plugs over the tiny bolts hidden near the torque converter were missing. I'm petty sure the oil pain has been removed before. I wonder why? Maybe someone has replaced the oil pickup seal in the past. It seems hard to believe considering how poor its condition was. Maybe the last oil change they removed the oil pan and yet they didn't fix the seized drain bolt? I'll admit drilling it out was nerve-wracking but I can't imagine going through all the work to drop the pan for an oil change and then just not fixing it. I can only imagine what was done two owners ago.

I also drained the transmission fluid and refilled it. I bet its the first time in the whole 275K miles. I only got three quarts with just a simple drain and refill. I could get more swapped if I did a proper flush but that's generally a waste of time and fluid. For a flush you run the car with it overfilled and the tiny drain bolt out. Keep pouring ATF in faster than it comes out and let it run a quart or two heavy until the end of the flush. Thats the most thorough but it also wastes alot of new fluid. I'm not really that worried about the viscosity of the fluid breaking down. Its really just about getting the glitter out before it turns to sludge. A flush also is very ineffective because the glitter likes to build up in tight turns akin to how prospecting for gold uses turns to let gold flakes drop out in a sluice. Almost all of it is in the valve body cramming up against the screens of the solenoid. The fluid was as black as can be. There wasn't any red visible at all. The fluid also had the glitter floating up in clouds as it hit the pan. Wow. I can't imagine owning a car and just never changing the "lifetime" fluid. I wanted to replace the internal filter but turns out it requires transmission removal and whole case broken open. I'll be cutting the return line from the radiator and putting in my backwards fuel filter hack very soon. I hope to get all that silver glitter out of the fluid the same way I do it to my other project cars. Keep running it through a very fine filter long enough and it'll work out of the nooks and crannies and be clean again without the 1,000 gal of ATF it would take by flushing methods. I wonder just how far I can keep the original transmission before rebuild?


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

So was looking online for the pickup seal conversion and found this posting. Guy is selling the conversion, but is also including seals for the PCV and oil level sensor. This kit would provide a seal for all of the oil leak spots on the pan









Oil Pump Pickup Pipe Seal for Vauxhall Opel Insignia Zafira 2.0 CDTI Suzuki Sx4 | eBay


Oil Pump Pickup Pipe Aluminium Viton Seal for Vauxhall Opel Insignia Zafira Astra Cascada 2.0 CDTI. Oil Pump Pickup Pipe seal occurs as an O-ring that is situated between the oil pump and the pickup pipe in the Opel Insignia 2.0 CDTI diesel engine.



www.ebay.com


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Boathook36 said:


> I broke the stupid oil return line on the backside of the pan. It would not have broken if they used a hex bolt. The dang Torx bolt was terribly stripped and just breaking the line was the only way to get the pan out.


I believe I read in service data it says to cut a slot in the bolt head.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

BDCCruze said:


> So was looking online for the pickup seal conversion and found this posting. Guy is selling the conversion, but is also including seals for the PCV and oil level sensor. This kit would provide a seal for all of the oil leak spots on the pan


That is the exact item I purchased and installed. It worked great. It shipped from Poland but didn't take too long considering. It beat the initial estimated delivery date by one day.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

BDCCruze said:


> I believe I read in service data it says to cut a slot in the bolt head.


The bolt has a larger diameter section of shank below the pan of the head to prevent overtightening from breaking the plastic. I left it alone and now if I need to remove the pan I just have 3/8" fuel line and a hose clamp to loosen from the barb. I would only need to slot the bolt to replace the Oring and its at the very top of the pan so its just splash oil, not immersion. I didn't actually use the extra O-rings that came with the kit. The base of the barb had little chip off it already and did seem pretty fragile. I don't think it would survive an extended effort to extract that bolt.

That topic inspires me to enthusiastically rant about the joys of Neversieze. I use copious neversieze on all hose barbs with any flexible line or hose. I use it with water, coolant, fuel or oil. I've found stiff old dryrot lines years after installing them and they still release and twist off without having to cut them off or without breaking the barb. It really extends the service life of the stuff I put together. For instance I hate having to replace okay radiator hoses because they are corroded fast to the water pump outlet or radiator. I especially hate replacing a whole caliper because the bleed screw broke. Neversieze is beautiful stuff. 

I used to hesitate on using Neversieze on electrical connections. I used to use the No-ox marketed for electrical panels. Thats basically bulk packaging of the same stuff that auto parts places sell in tiny little packages for battery connections. I've since learned that Neversieze was thoroughly tested for power company use and behaves well. Its also been tested as an alternative for heat sink paste. It actually outperforms the common heat sink goop sold for PC motherboards. The cheap HEI ignition modules with notorious short life last forever if they are globbed in Neversieze before install. I've also been thoroughly testing the limits of high amperage applications. I've used disgusting amounts of it on starter connections, battery terminals, start solenoid connections, sensor plugs, and home electrical applications. If you spread stranded electrical wire fibers apart and goop a whole bunch of Neversieze into it then apply a wire nut that connection will be rust free and perfectly conductive a decade later even in high moisture exterior uses. If you slather it on the inside of aluminum rims they never decay against the steel rotors. If you goop up your welder connections or jumper cable crimps during assembly they wont be green and decayed ever again. The horrible chalk that builds up around battery posts hasn't ever been there since I started slathering them up. Neversieze doesn't conduct micro amperage present in corrosion but it doesn't restrict operational amperage at all, even tiny amperages like hall sensors. It does "dry up" and get thick but a shot of PB Blaster and its instantly renewed to like-new viscosity. I cut the containers in half and use a paint brush to slather it everywhere.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I found this to be a very thorough and well written description of our diesel Cruze transmission.









Aisin AW TF-81SC: A vigorous veteran - The AKPPro Magazine


Устройство, ремонт, типичные неисправности автоматической трансмиссии Aisin AW TF-81SC




akppro.ru


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Boathook36 said:


> The bolt has a larger diameter section of shank below the pan of the head to prevent overtightening from breaking the plastic. I left it alone and now if I need to remove the pan I just have 3/8" fuel line and a hose clamp to loosen from the barb. I would only need to slot the bolt to replace the Oring and its at the very top of the pan so its just splash oil, not immersion. I didn't actually use the extra O-rings that came with the kit. The base of the barb had little chip off it already and did seem pretty fragile. I don't think it would survive an extended effort to extract that bolt.
> 
> That topic inspires me to enthusiastically rant about the joys of Neversieze. I use copious neversieze on all hose barbs with any flexible line or hose. I use it with water, coolant, fuel or oil. I've found stiff old dryrot lines years after installing them and they still release and twist off without having to cut them off or without breaking the barb. It really extends the service life of the stuff I put together. For instance I hate having to replace okay radiator hoses because they are corroded fast to the water pump outlet or radiator. I especially hate replacing a whole caliper because the bleed screw broke. Neversieze is beautiful stuff.
> 
> I used to hesitate on using Neversieze on electrical connections. I used to use the No-ox marketed for electrical panels. Thats basically bulk packaging of the same stuff that auto parts places sell in tiny little packages for battery connections. I've since learned that Neversieze was thoroughly tested for power company use and behaves well. Its also been tested as an alternative for heat sink paste. It actually outperforms the common heat sink goop sold for PC motherboards. The cheap HEI ignition modules with notorious short life last forever if they are globbed in Neversieze before install. I've also been thoroughly testing the limits of high amperage applications. I've used disgusting amounts of it on starter connections, battery terminals, start solenoid connections, sensor plugs, and home electrical applications. If you spread stranded electrical wire fibers apart and goop a whole bunch of Neversieze into it then apply a wire nut that connection will be rust free and perfectly conductive a decade later even in high moisture exterior uses. If you slather it on the inside of aluminum rims they never decay against the steel rotors. If you goop up your welder connections or jumper cable crimps during assembly they wont be green and decayed ever again. The horrible chalk that builds up around battery posts hasn't ever been there since I started slathering them up. Neversieze doesn't conduct micro amperage present in corrosion but it doesn't restrict operational amperage at all, even tiny amperages like hall sensors. It does "dry up" and get thick but a shot of PB Blaster and its instantly renewed to like-new viscosity. I cut the containers in half and use a paint brush to slather it everywhere.


So where do you source this product from?


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

Permatex Neversieze is at all the major parts suppliers. Sold in a grey round jar about 6" tall with a metal lid for about $9. Its usually sitting on the shelf below the RTV products. There is also a copper version for high temperature applications like exhaust manifold gaskets. I also use it on all gasket surfaces, which help them from sticking and needing to be scraped off next time. It works great on carb gaskets because if I have to pull the carb apart a couple times to troubleshoot the float gaskets dont rip and crumble and usually don't need to be replaced. It also helps Orings from sticking.

The single best use is for polyurethane bushings. If you replace rubber with polyurethane on suspension parts like sway bar endlinks they will squeak something fierce. If you glob everything with neversieze thoroughly, setting each part and making sure polyurethane never hits metal without it then you'll have a totally quiet ride when you are done. It keeps the threads as clean as the day you installed them and tapered joints ready to pop free as needed, like the ball joint on the Cruze that needs to be popped off each time you pull the CV shaft, like when dropping the oil pan.

I do use it with Stainless Steel but sparingly because stainless is very brittle and very easily galled. It isn't needed to mate stainless to stainless but it does help preserve the metal being bolted and sometimes prevents galvanic action that decays non-stainless in contact with stainless.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

I just bought a second Diesel Cruze. It has 50K miles. It was smashed up two or three owners ago and rebuilt. The last owners got hit while sitting still at a red light. It got hit right at the driver side headlamp. I'm not totally sure what repair is from the first hit or the recent one since it was basically the exact same spot. They started to replace stuff and decided to stop because the second hit caused a crack on the crush zone behind the bumper support. I expected to see a crack on the front subframe by their description and figured it would be an awesome spare transmission and such. It didn't sound repairable when I agreed to buy it. When I saw how minor the crack was and especially where it was I immediately decided to fix the car. It is very minor damage. They tried to weld the front bumper loop to the body and talked about putting a rigid tie between them which would have negated the crush zone and how its supposed to work. Thankfully their "arc-welds" had no penetration and just fell off with a hammer whack. It seems to run well and I'm anxious to get it fully on the road.

I got the new facia, hood, and radiator already. It already has a new fender and headlight assembly. I think I just need a new foglight and bezel and the marker lights seem to be missing. It was $2,700 and with registration, notary costs, EFIlive registration, and the missing parts I'm up to $3,900 so far. I'm not getting a fancy downpipe for this one although it will be retuned the same and my old clogged downpipe has been "unclogged" and swapped on. It was easy to do with the radiator missing.

The Rebuilt title means the 50K mile car stays a spare since the 287K mile car is a clear title eligible for Uber. I would yank any part out of this and put it in the high mileage one to minimize downtime if we had a sudden failure. Hopefully I can stay ahead and get another parts car so I'm ready for failures and don't need to have both down together. This Cruze was too nice to kill for parts so its graduated to be our spare and test mule.

We need a test mule because we have been experimenting with old motor oil heavily filtered and mixed with gasoline. We want to "run black" on the spare Cruze for awhile before attempting to run the main one on a black oil/diesel mix. It works great on the indirect injection systems on my older stuff. For the direct injection Cruze I'm not worried about the lubricity of the injection pump but the injectors themselves will likely need constant maintenance to keep from coking up. I want to eventually add a small amount of propane injection and retune the car to compensate. Propane injection does wonders for the incomplete combustion that causes black soot and black engine oil. I'm hoping to smoke less than it originally did on straight diesel and I'm optimistic that it will also negate the coking problems with the black oil mix.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> I believe I read in service data it says to cut a slot in the bolt head.


That is correct. By law...for some reason...it is some weird-ass tamper proof bolt. It's something like a five-pointed, slanted, interface - it only allows tightening with the proper socket, but not loosening.

The slot didn't work work a ****, but hammering on a 1/2" 12-point worked quite well, since it isn't super tight.

I replaced that bolt with a nice stainless Philips-head one.


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