# 2012 eco MT fluid change



## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The book says 2 qts. The Vauxhall guys say 2.5 for the same transmission. There's a thread here for doing your own drain and fill. The OEM fluid is apparently only good for about 15K miles. I swapped mine out with AMSOIL Synchromesh at 45K and there was a noticeable improvement in shifting. In addition my 1-2 WOT shift no longer grinds with the AMSOIL.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Thought is was 3 1/2 quarts, was no question with 80's Honda's, they used a dipstick. Not a darn reason why the Cruze can't use a dipstick, just rivet a blade on that cap and put a full mark on it.

Think somebody developed an allergy to dipsticks, the dipstick. 

Not only lube for the MT, but the differential as well in a transaxle. Least the Honda's were this way, sure the Cruze is also.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Nope, 2.5 quarts to refill. It's a easy DIY with the right tools. Use Amsoil Synchromesh, since it has a great track record in this transmission. Change it 40k miles later, rinse and repeat for as long as you own the car.


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## Alex V. (Sep 20, 2013)

The online manual I used (via a friend that had access to info through the college he got his auto tech degree from - maybe Alldata?) said to put in what came out, which was 1.6 qts. on my car - I did mine at 10K and used OEM fluid, and now at 25K it feels like the fluid's getting thin on long, hot runs on the interstate so it's getting changed again at 30K. I'm not knocking Amsoil's synchromesh, but my personal opinion is that I want to see more miles accumulated in _this _transmission before I trust the DIY gearheads on using a fluid that doesn't meet GM's spec. I'm a DIY gearhead myself, and I know there's probably nothing in the Amsoil fluid that'll harm the M32, but I don't make a habit of WOT 1-2 shifts and a 5-grand 3-4 powershift doesn't grind in my car so I'll let more mileage-verified evidence accumulate before I switch to Amsoil.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Alex V. said:


> The online manual I used (via a friend that had access to info through the college he got his auto tech degree from - maybe Alldata?) said to put in what came out, which was 1.6 qts. on my car - I did mine at 10K and used OEM fluid, and now at 25K it feels like the fluid's getting thin on long, hot runs on the interstate so it's getting changed again at 30K. I'm not knocking Amsoil's synchromesh, but my personal opinion is that I want to see more miles accumulated in _this _transmission before I trust the DIY gearheads on using a fluid that doesn't meet GM's spec. I'm a DIY gearhead myself, and I know there's probably nothing in the Amsoil fluid that'll harm the M32, but I don't make a habit of WOT 1-2 shifts and a 5-grand 3-4 powershift doesn't grind in my car so I'll let more mileage-verified evidence accumulate before I switch to Amsoil.


1.5 is what the car barely comes prefilled to dealershipand what dealership refills to when they drain/fill for axle and other work. 2.5 is what has been used to help adequately lube 5th and 6th gear. 

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html


^this is going to be your local real world data for this trans.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Alex V. said:


> The online manual I used (via a friend that had access to info through the college he got his auto tech degree from - maybe Alldata?) said to put in what came out, which was 1.6 qts. on my car - I did mine at 10K and used OEM fluid, and now at 25K it feels like the fluid's getting thin on long, hot runs on the interstate so it's getting changed again at 30K. I'm not knocking Amsoil's synchromesh, but my personal opinion is that I want to see more miles accumulated in _this _transmission before I trust the DIY gearheads on using a fluid that doesn't meet GM's spec. I'm a DIY gearhead myself, and I know there's probably nothing in the Amsoil fluid that'll harm the M32, but I don't make a habit of WOT 1-2 shifts and a 5-grand 3-4 powershift doesn't grind in my car so I'll let more mileage-verified evidence accumulate before I switch to Amsoil.


Our oil analysis has shown the OE fluid is pretty much shot by 10k. If you haven't noticed the shifting degrade yet, you weren't paying attention. Not trying to be a smartass, that's just how this fluid is. The guys in the UK have more experience with the M32 than we do. Hundreds of thousands of miles. All of them have said the OE fluid causes notchy shifting, and that a synthetic replacement in a 75W-80 or 75W-85 is strongly recommended. In addition, they have noted a high number of 5-6 gear shaft failures (which we've seen on this forum as well) due to the OE fill level in the transmission, and have recommended that we fill to 2.5 quarts. One of my buddies is a courier, which follows your driving patterns, and is going on 126k miles with the AMSOIL Synchromesh fluid. He sent me an oil analysis report of the fluid after his first change. See for yourself. 










76,709 miles on the fluid, which is almost double what we recommend on this forum. We find a viscosity drop from 9.7 to 7.1; one entire viscosity grade. It wasn't ever determined what the aluminum levels came from, but at 76,709 miles, it wasn't all that great of a concern. Keep in mind the OE fluid is notably thinner than this. 

The earlier models M32 transmission had a level plug. I put 2 quarts into mine the first time I changed to AMSOIL Synchromesh and nothing came out of the fill plug. Yes, my car was on level ground. A search on vxronline.com confirms that the fluid capacity is 2.4 liters (officially). This doesn't include the extra half a quart they recommend to help protect the 5-6 gear shaft bearings. 

HOW TO- changing gear oil..
M32 gbox oil change - have tried search

They don't have AMSOIL Synchromesh available to them, but they do *strongly *recommend a synthetic 75W-80 gear lube, which is what AMSOIL Synchromesh is. 

Which gearbox oil do i need to use
Astra Owners Network Forum | MK1 - MK6 | VXR | T8 | T9 | Zafira | Astra Van

Reading along, you will find some people recommending 3 liters even. The following service document specifies the capacity at 2.4 liters. I'll let you do the math. 

https://www.diagnostics.org.uk/2010/01/m32-6-speed-manual-transmission-1-9-cdti-vxr/


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## Alex V. (Sep 20, 2013)

If I conveyed that I hadn't noticed a _change_ in shifting, that was not my intent - I can tell the fluid is losing its viscosity at 15K miles, but I shift aggressively from 2nd through 5th many times and I'm not feeling anything I consider undesirable until the fluid is just-off-the-freeway-on-a-100-degree-day hot. I've only tried the WOT 1-2 shift once or twice, and while my car didn't grind it's possible it would if I did it more frequently or when the fluid was nice and hot. I've driven manual transmissions - 3, 4, 5, and 6 speeds - since I was 8, and I'm aware of what it feels like when the synchro isn't doing its job. I will say, as wide as the ratio gap is between 1st and 2nd gear the synchro has its work cut out for it.

Very good points - sadly, I can believe that GM would under fill these transmissions. I don't read every thread on this board about trans. lubrication and missed the owner you cited, but your facts are evidence enough for me and my car will be switched to Amsoil when 30K rolls around.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Alex V. said:


> If I conveyed that I hadn't noticed a _change_ in shifting, that was not my intent - I can tell the fluid is losing its viscosity at 15K miles, but I shift aggressively from 2nd through 5th many times and I'm not feeling anything I consider undesirable until the fluid is just-off-the-freeway-on-a-100-degree-day hot. I've only tried the WOT 1-2 shift once or twice, and while my car didn't grind it's possible it would if I did it more frequently or when the fluid was nice and hot. I've driven manual transmissions - 3, 4, 5, and 6 speeds - since I was 8, and I'm aware of what it feels like when the synchro isn't doing its job. I will say, as wide as the ratio gap is between 1st and 2nd gear the synchro has its work cut out for it.
> 
> Very good points - sadly, I can believe that GM would under fill these transmissions. I don't read every thread on this board about trans. lubrication and missed the owner you cited, but your facts are evidence enough for me and my car will be switched to Amsoil when 30K rolls around.


That to me represents a significant problem. The issue as described elsewhere on this board is that the fluid shears down. The molecules break apart and form new smaller ones, which reduces the viscosity of the fluid. A reduction in viscosity compromises the film strength of the fluid, its ability to protect bearings and gear surfaces as required, and its ability to engage synchronizers. I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir here. The problem is that this becomes a compounded problem. The thinner it gets, the weaker it gets, the more easily it shears. At some point, your inability to protect raises heat levels, and you get thermal runaway. 

GM used a very thin fluid and a minimal volume of it for fuel economy. Our only saving grace is that these transmissions are pretty robust. The guys in the UK on 1.6L Turbo motors are putting down over 250hp to the wheels day in and day out and heat is the only issue they run into with these transmissions. Not many are breaking hard parts. I suspect that the transmission would go quite a while on poor fluid without actually failing, but I wouldn't want to find out how long.


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## Alex V. (Sep 20, 2013)

Agreed and understood.


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## SunnyinHollister (Mar 17, 2011)

If you are regularly driving in 100 degree temps than consider Amsoil 75W-90 MTL. Also consider getting a magnetic drain plug from Richard at MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUGS


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## SunnyinHollister (Mar 17, 2011)

CruzeEcoBlueTopaz said:


> I have personal experience with an aftermarket magnetic drain plug. It is my opinion that after purchasing an aftermarket drain plug and using this drain plug over the course of 3 to 4 oil exchanges it caused the oil pan threads to become worn. I noticed the drain plug was difficult to screw in and unscrew so I went back to the oem plug which was smooth and felt normal. Unfortinently after another 3 to 4 oil exchange I was forced to replace the entire oil pan because of the completely stripped threads. I would suggest staying with the oem plug.
> 
> 
> Also while using the magnetic plug there was never any visual debris attached to the plug. Its my opinion that the magnetic plug is unncessary. Use a quality oil and filter and you shouldnt even need a magnetic plug.


Obviously you must have got one with threads that were damaged, galled, or otherwise screwed up. If the magnetic drain plug is of the same thread and size there should be no issues. The drain plug I got from this vendor was a OEM drain plug that was modified to fit a neodymium magnet so you would not have any of the issues you describe. Secondly, there is no oil filter in a manual transmission. A lot of OEMs use magnetic drain plugs for good reason. Most automatic transmissions that have filter also you a magnet in the pan. What a magnetic drain plug will do for you is it will give you another way of checking on the health of your transmission when you service it while capturing more metal particles.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

SunnyinHollister said:


> Secondly, there is no oil filter in a manual transmission.


Interesting to know. I wonder what that oil filter in my ECO MT is for then.


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## SunnyinHollister (Mar 17, 2011)

obermd said:


> Interesting to know. I wonder what that oil filter in my ECO MT is for then. I think you ate some Colorado Brownies.


Maybe I missed it on the parts diagram, but where is the filter and oil pump? I've yet to see an oil filter and oil pump on a manual transmission but his could be the first. Transfer cases have pumps, but only a rock catcher strainer on the inlet.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Not sure where it is on the parts diagram but look down on the right hand side of the engine block on both the 1.8 and 1.4T engines and you will see an oil filter. It's buried down on the side of the block but it's there. We have instructions here on how to change the oil: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/544-cruze-oil-change-1-4t.html. While aimed at the 1.4T (LT, ECO, LTZ) trims the procedure is similar for the 1.8 (LS) trims. Both the automatic and manual transmissions have a filter.

In addition, Subaru also uses oil filters on all their vehicles, including their manual transmissions.


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## SunnyinHollister (Mar 17, 2011)

obermd said:


> Not sure where it is on the parts diagram but look down on the right hand side of the engine block on both the 1.8 and 1.4T engines and you will see an oil filter. It's buried down on the side of the block but it's there. We have instructions here on how to change the oil: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/544-cruze-oil-change-1-4t.html. While aimed at the 1.4T (LT, ECO, LTZ) trims the procedure is similar for the 1.8 (LS) trims. Both the automatic and manual transmissions have a filter.
> 
> In addition, Subaru also uses oil filters on all their vehicles, including their manual transmissions.


Well my 2013 does not seem to have any sort of filter. I also cannot find any reference to a filter or pump in the parts manuals. Without a pump, the only sort of filter would have to be a splash style screen which would not be accessible from the outside of the tranny. I know that there are some of the guys in Europe that are using coolers with external pumps, but have never seen a reference to an internal pump.

the mystery deepens.....

Can you send or post a picture of the said filter? I'm curious now because if there is a filter that we could replace that would be awesome.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

He said manual transmission. There is no filter on our manual transmission. Sure there is, for the engine oil, but not for the transmission fluid. It is my understanding that we wanted that magnetic drain plug for the transmission fluid. 

As for the magnetic drain plug, here are the iron numbers on a 76,000 mile sample of AMSOIL Synchromesh:










Looks like there's some iron to be caught.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

SunnyinHollister said:


> Well my 2013 does not seem to have any sort of filter. I also cannot find any reference to a filter or pump in the parts manuals. Without a pump, the only sort of filter would have to be a splash style screen which would not be accessible from the outside of the tranny. I know that there are some of the guys in Europe that are using coolers with external pumps, but have never seen a reference to an internal pump.
> 
> the mystery deepens.....
> 
> Can you send or post a picture of the said filter? I'm curious now because if there is a filter that we could replace that would be awesome.


There is a picture of the filter in the thread I referenced. The 2011 - 2014 North American gasoline Cruze all have the same two engines, so if you're changing your oil without changing the filter you're leaving crud in the system.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Good catch Andrei,

SunnyinHollister, are you referring to the actual transmission fluid or the oil? There's definitely an oil filter. I don't know about a filter for the transmission fluid but I wouldn't be surprised to find you're correct if this is what you're referring to.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> He said manual transmission. There is no filter on our manual transmission. Sure there is, for the engine oil, but not for the transmission fluid. It is my understanding that we wanted that magnetic drain plug for the transmission fluid.
> 
> As for the magnetic drain plug, here are the iron numbers on a 76,000 mile sample of AMSOIL Synchromesh:
> 
> ...


There's also a lot of aluminum, which a magnetic plug won't catch.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

obermd said:


> There's also a lot of aluminum, which a magnetic plug won't catch.


We still haven't figured out what the aluminum was coming from. I believe the synchros are brass or some alloy of a yellow metal not including aluminum. It was suspected that the aluminum numbers came from the casing of the transmission, but we weren't certain. He's another 26k into his second change of AMSOIL Synchromesh now. I'm expecting him to send in that sample at 40-50k to see what it looks like. I told him 76k was way too long for this MTF, and the shearing demonstrates that. We knew it would be a problem, but this reinforces just how bad GM's service intervals for this application really are. I might have expected this out of someone who races everywhere, but this guy is a part time courier so these are almost all highway cruising miles.


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## CruzeEcoBlueTopaz (Jan 5, 2012)

LOL I deleted my post I dont know why I was thinking about the engine oil drain plug when this is obviously a thread about transmission fluid..... how embarrasing.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Since the drain plug on the MTF is an allen socket, I wonder if I can get a long enough neodymium motor and just put it inside the opening. Question is, will I be able to get it back out afterward?


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## SunnyinHollister (Mar 17, 2011)

obermd said:


> Good catch Andrei,
> 
> SunnyinHollister, are you referring to the actual transmission fluid or the oil? There's definitely an oil filter. I don't know about a filter for the transmission fluid but I wouldn't be surprised to find you're correct if this is what you're referring to.


I was referring to the manual transmission hence the confusion on my part. And a magnetic drain plug will not catch aluminum or copper. But if I start seeing metal flakes or small pieces of what could be bearings on the drain plug instead of the normal fine black metallic paste, I know a tear down is in my future. They are but one tool of many. 

Cheers!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

This thread makes me think of


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