# Just installed Hawk HPS Pads and EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors!



## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Is there a proper way to reinstall bolts that have been originally installed this way or is some lock-tight and a ratchet enough?


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

I know imma get to see them tomorrow but, PICS MAN!


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Haha ill snap some in the morning


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## rpcraft (Jan 12, 2013)

FYI, automotive manufacturers have being using torque to yield fasteners on most chassis and engine components since the industry was created... It's been the standard for them and many other industrial applications (skyscrapers, ships, etc) when it comes to proper clamping strength and the ability to resist vibrations. The only thing that has really changed is the technologies that allow for more accurate measurement (bolt stretch and assembly lubes).


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Good to know. I didn't have a torque wrench small enough to get into the fender well and into where the break bolts were so I went ahead and got them tight and went another quarter -half turn on everything that I took off. Is this acceptable?


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

I also couldn't find torque specs for any of the break bolts...


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## Hoon (Mar 18, 2012)

I used the hawk HPS in a different application, had squeaking/squealing and insane dust, but very good performance. I got 60K miles out of them because they were tougher than the rotors, lol. 

Please report back after a few thousand miles with results on the Cruze!


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Thank you for the specs! Given the way that I installed them: tight + 1/4 to 1/2 turn, will I be okay or should I pick up a smaller torque wrench, take them back apart and torque to proper specs...?


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Hoon: I will definitely report back! I read a lot of good reviews about the Hawk HPS pads which is why I went that route instead of the EBC pads so hopefully they hold up to the hype. I'm also looking forward to seeing how the EBC rotors do, I've never used their brake products but I know they make good quality parts!


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Sounds good, I will leave them for now. I'm due to rotate the tires in about 1800 miles so I will check everything then to make sure there isn't any unusual wear or visual issues. Thank you for your help!


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Rotor pics, not the best but it'll give you an idea!






















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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

do they make a lot of noise thats my only concern.


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

So far they're quieter and smoother than stock but ill have to break them in some more and let you know!


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

I acually have a question my boss didn't really say yay ot nay. Would it be safe to use stock pads and rotors dd then swap to slotted rotors and performance pads at the track. Do y'all think there might be a downside to thia idea.

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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Aside from an appreciable amount of time involved in swapping them out frequently (took me almost 2 hours to do mine, granted that's on the longer end of the spectrum) and potential wear and tear associated with regular disassembly and reassembly I don't see and major issues with doing this. My main question is why wouldn't you just run the performance pads and rotors all the time?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

well i have to travel 400 miles to my autocross meets in Dallas , and almost the same distance to sandia raceway in new mexico.
addition: and if they do squeal i dont want that with everyday driving as i dont need better brakes for daily driving.


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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

Gotcha, that makes sense. I don't see any reason why you couldn't change them out for races, I would just be careful to torque everything to spec and carry back up bolts just incase. The process is somewhat involved but I imagine if done frequently you could have it down to a relatively fast swap. 70AAR commented earlier in this thread that you SHOULD change out the bolts on the caliper and rotor bracket when servicing the system but I spoke to my dealership this morning and they don't stock the bolts nor do they change them out when doing break jobs so I think it is probably safe to use the original bolts a few times, again though I would stress proper torque each and every time if you're planning to swap them frequently. Hope this helps!


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

The Butcher said:


> Gotcha, that makes sense. I don't see any reason why you couldn't change them out for races, I would just be careful to torque everything to spec and carry back up bolts just incase. The process is somewhat involved but I imagine if done frequently you could have it down to a relatively fast swap. 70AAR commented earlier in this thread that you SHOULD change out the bolts on the caliper and rotor bracket when servicing the system but I spoke to my dealership this morning and they don't stock the bolts nor do they change them out when doing break jobs so I think it is probably safe to use the original bolts a few times, again though I would stress proper torque each and every time if you're planning to swap them frequently. Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


Yea u didn't think anything would happend and I always torque properly.

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## bryanakron40 (Nov 8, 2012)

I know everyone likes the look, but you guys do know they don't improve braking performance, right?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

bryanakron40 said:


> I know everyone likes the look, but you guys do know they don't improve braking performance, right?


This.

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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

The Butcher said:


> Gotcha, that makes sense. I don't see any reason why you couldn't change them out for races, I would just be careful to torque everything to spec and carry back up bolts just incase. The process is somewhat involved but I imagine if done frequently you could have it down to a relatively fast swap. 70AAR commented earlier in this thread that you SHOULD change out the bolts on the caliper and rotor bracket when servicing the system but I spoke to my dealership this morning and they don't stock the bolts nor do they change them out when doing break jobs so I think it is probably safe to use the original bolts a few times, again though I would stress proper torque each and every time if you're planning to swap them frequently. Hope this helps!
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


Front pads on the Cruze are easy. It would take an experienced wrench about 30 minutes to slap new pads onto the car once they got it up into the air. For the bolts, I'd think that torque to yield bolts would not be in a place that sees regular service like the brake caliper.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

bryanakron40 said:


> I know everyone likes the look, but you guys do know they don't improve braking performance, right?


They don't improve performance but they do transfer heat better.

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> They don't improve performance but they do transfer heat better.
> 
> Sent from my Droid using AutoGuide.Com Free App


Maybe...in Lamborghinis, track cars, and extreme stress applications where far better rotors are used to begin with.

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## The Butcher (Apr 6, 2011)

I've always heard that they improve heat transfer but truly I went with them for looks, I wanted improved breaking over stock which is why I went with hawk pads and I really didn't want to turn and reuse the stock rotors and have them get hot spots really bad again so ultimately I just decided to upgrade. They look great and breaking is noticeably better in my opinion.


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## Invierno (Nov 23, 2012)

Where did you buy the rotors? 

I was about to buy some drilled Brembo rotors from TireRack when I first got my Cruze, but since then they have disappeared from TireRack. Only the Hawk HPS pads are available. I have always used Brembo rotors on all my previous cars and loved them, but I guess they aren't making them for us anymore :/

So, where did you get the EBC rotors? I've never been a fan of EBC's brake pads, but maybe their rotors are at least better than our stock rotors....


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