# What's wrong with my Cruze?



## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

At 40040 mi. CEL code P11D7 (nox sensor) I cleared the code. 46488 mi. same code I cleared it again. 48129 same again. 49430 same code. Dealer replaced sensor (under warranty). The next day CEL back again same code. Returned to dealer. Dealer replaced injector pump. Dealer called me and said engine won't run, starts and stalls. Dealer replaced fuel rail. Dealer found code P2453-00 (differential pressure sensor bad, replaced). Dealer reported EGR valve stuck open. Dealer said I need to replace fuel filter (DIC said 35% remaining) done at cost of $170.00. The car was at the dealers 2 weeks and 3 days. It's now one week later and the CEL is back on code P11D7. The dealer is not sure when he can look at again (he will call me). I have to drive over a thousand miles in the next 6 days. He thinks it should be ok to drive. 
During the last month the regens. have been about every 110 miles instead of the normal 400 to 1000mi.
My thought is that something is causing excessive soot dirtying the sensors and loading up the DPF.
Any thoughts? I have considered taking it to another dealer.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

I have had P11D7 quite a few times in my early ownership experience. One nox sensor was replaced - and the final fix was the discovery of bolts broken at the exhaust pipe to the SCR catalyst. 

Dealer thought that ice broke them. But now we see many CTDs have the same fault. 

Once those bolts were replaced I never had another check engine light. I'm currently at 49,000 miles.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

My bolts were changed when my P11D7 code was fixed by changing the NOx2 sensor. So they must've caught on.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Barefeet said:


> At 40040 mi. CEL code P11D7 (nox sensor) I cleared the code. 46488 mi. same code I cleared it again. 48129 same again. 49430 same code. Dealer replaced sensor (under warranty). The next day CEL back again same code. Returned to dealer. Dealer replaced injector pump. Dealer called me and said engine won't run, starts and stalls. Dealer replaced fuel rail. Dealer found code P2453-00 (differential pressure sensor bad, replaced). Dealer reported EGR valve stuck open. Dealer said I need to replace fuel filter (DIC said 35% remaining) done at cost of $170.00. The car was at the dealers 2 weeks and 3 days. It's now one week later and the CEL is back on code P11D7. The dealer is not sure when he can look at again (he will call me). I have to drive over a thousand miles in the next 6 days. He thinks it should be ok to drive.
> During the last month the regens. have been about every 110 miles instead of the normal 400 to 1000mi.
> My thought is that something is causing excessive soot dirtying the sensors and loading up the DPF.
> Any thoughts? I have considered taking it to another dealer.


What does "not sure when I can look at it again" mean, exactly? Shouldn't he have a schedule in front of him? 

I think the suggestion to take a look at the exhaust bolts is a good one. I am also wondering if reprogramming the fuel trims might help the issue.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I think a PM to our Chevy Customer Care account is in order. It sounds like your dealer is shooting in the dark and really needs to be told to call GM TAC for assistance.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

So they threw a bunch of random parts at it, charged you almost 200 dollars for a filter that takes 5 minutes to replace, got sick of messing with it, and gave it back and said that they don't know when they can look at it again? 

Basically they don't know what's wrong with it and don't feel like messing with it.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

justin13703 said:


> So they threw a bunch of random parts at it, charged you almost 200 dollars for a filter that takes 5 minutes to replace, got sick of messing with it, and gave it back and said that they don't know when they can look at it again?


dealer pricing for parts and min charge for labor...it adds up.



justin13703 said:


> Basically they don't know what's wrong with it and don't feel like messing with it.


yep


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

You guys are all right! The flanges are corroded and one bolt is broken off. How can the mechanic keep replacing the nox sensor and not even see the missing bolt less than two feet away?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Barefeet said:


> You guys are all right! The flanges are corroded and one bolt is broken off. How can the mechanic keep replacing the nox sensor and not even see the missing bolt less than two feet away?
> View attachment 199761


You definitely need to find a new dealership. Yours is obviously staffed by untrained monkeys.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

for those of you who have had it broken. where do you live (salt states) and how long have you owned. i looked under and mine is not rusted but i live in florida


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

now you know not to go back there


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

pandrad61 said:


> for those of you who have had it broken. where do you live (salt states) and how long have you owned. i looked under and mine is not rusted but i live in florida


Yes, Rochester, NY mucho salt!


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

i know cars are "rustproofed" form factory but its not really proof just slows it down.. i dont see an issue for me soon but now ill keep an eye on it or replace them with grade 10 bolts and nuts now


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## its a syn (Feb 24, 2016)

Take it to the dealer, tell him I have all the time in the world for you to fix warranty work. Go to his manager an tell him you deserve a comparable car to drive while this is done. A real dealer will do this.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Barefeet said:


> You guys are all right! The flanges are corroded and one bolt is broken off. How can the mechanic keep replacing the nox sensor and not even see the missing bolt less than two feet away?
> View attachment 199761


Normally I would recommend going to another dealer, however I would take that photo and show it ot the shop manager where you were taking your car.


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

pandrad61 said:


> i know cars are "rustproofed" form factory but its not really proof just slows it down.. i dont see an issue for me soon but now ill keep an eye on it or replace them with grade 10 bolts and nuts now


316L stainless steel if you can OP.


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

spacedout said:


> Normally I would recommend going to another dealer, however I would take that photo and show it ot the shop manager where you were taking your car.


I talked to the SM showed him the picture. We talked about all the parts and labor over the last five weeks. When the mechanic replaced the NOX sensor he missed the broken bolt. After that they did not put the car back on the lift and just kept addressing new codes and following GM guidelines. He heard my complaints, gave me a new Malibu loaner and two hours later my car was repaired with stainless bolts. I'm satisfied.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Barefeet said:


> I talked to the SM showed him the picture. We talked about all the parts and labor over the last five weeks. When the mechanic replaced the NOX sensor he missed the broken bolt. After that they did not put the car back on the lift and just kept addressing new codes and following GM guidelines. He heard my complaints, gave me a new Malibu loaner and two hours later my car was repaired with stainless bolts. I'm satisfied.
> View attachment 199809


Can you post the part numbers for those bolts?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

diesel said:


> Can you post the part numbers for those bolts?


There won't be a part number from GM.....GM would only show the numbers for the original studs/nuts.

Fasteners are likely coming from a general purpose nut and bolt bin that every repair shop keeps on hand.

Rob


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

Barefeet said:


> I talked to the SM showed him the picture. We talked about all the parts and labor over the last five weeks. When the mechanic replaced the NOX sensor he missed the broken bolt. After that they did not put the car back on the lift and just kept addressing new codes and following GM guidelines. He heard my complaints, gave me a new Malibu loaner and two hours later my car was repaired with stainless bolts. I'm satisfied.
> View attachment 199809



Did they address or did the bolt repair resolve the frequent regen issue. I had the dealer do the ECM update ( fuel trim) and it made it worse. Getting regens with 80% highway speed use @ >65 MPH at less than 100 miles per Regen. GM Customer Care tells me : Just take it back to dealer (again) for issue. Frustrating to say the least. By the way, no bolt issue here as car is 7 months old and only 6 K miles.

Going back to dealer today and will see what happens. I am currently parked at frustration station.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Robby said:


> There won't be a part number from GM.....GM would only show the numbers for the original studs/nuts.
> 
> Fasteners are likely coming from a general purpose nut and bolt bin that every repair shop keeps on hand.
> 
> Rob


Hmm, interesting. I wonder if anybody knows exactly what I would look for to get the proper bolts/nuts for this application. I know some numbers have been thrown around, but those were more for the material quality I think, rather than the size/pitch/length and whatever other parameters describe something like this.


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

diesel said:


> Can you post the part numbers for those bolts?


13229872 Gasket
1516076 (S)Nut 
It's a flange nut for a check valve. What they had on hand.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Barefeet said:


> 13229872 Gasket
> 1516076 (S)Nut
> It's a flange nut for a check valve. What they had on hand.


Thanks, but are you missing a digit on the nut? I tried googling it and didn't come up with anything.


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

diesel said:


> Barefeet said:
> 
> 
> > 13229872 Gasket
> ...


You will need more than just a flange nut. You really just need to know the diameter (typically 3/8" or M10, not sure on this car) and buy a bolt with nut long enough to join flanges and stick slightly beyond the nut (maybe 1" or so?). Coarse thread is fine. Next oil change I'll be climbing under to address this since I have a consistent CEL for P11D7, hopefully this fixes it. Hardest part will be removing old studs and cleaning the rust to get a good seal.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Barefeet said:


> At 40040 mi. CEL code P11D7 (nox sensor) I cleared the code. 46488 mi. same code I cleared it again. 48129 same again. 49430 same code. Dealer replaced sensor (under warranty). The next day CEL back again same code. Returned to dealer. Dealer replaced injector pump. Dealer called me and said engine won't run, starts and stalls. Dealer replaced fuel rail. Dealer found code P2453-00 (differential pressure sensor bad, replaced). Dealer reported EGR valve stuck open. Dealer said I need to replace fuel filter (DIC said 35% remaining) done at cost of $170.00. The car was at the dealers 2 weeks and 3 days. It's now one week later and the CEL is back on code P11D7. The dealer is not sure when he can look at again (he will call me). I have to drive over a thousand miles in the next 6 days. He thinks it should be ok to drive.
> During the last month the regens. have been about every 110 miles instead of the normal 400 to 1000mi.
> My thought is that something is causing excessive soot dirtying the sensors and loading up the DPF.
> Any thoughts? I have considered taking it to another dealer.


Hello Barefeet,

We're terribly sorry to hear you're continuing to experience this code in your Cruze and can understand how frustrating this is for you. I do see you're considering visiting another dealership and we would be happy to facilitate that process on your behalf. Please send us a direct message with your VIN, contact information, and preferred dealership. We look forward to speaking with you further and working toward a potential solution.

Best,

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

CHECK VALVE NUT | Genuine GM | 11516076


Barefeet said:


> 13229872 Gasket
> 1516076 (S)Nut
> It's a flange nut for a check valve. What they had on hand.


Sorry 11516076


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Barefeet said:


> CHECK VALVE NUT | Genuine GM | 11516076
> 
> Sorry 11516076


Thanks! Sorry to be tedious, but is the P/N just for the nut, or the nut and bolt?


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## Barefeet (Jan 1, 2014)

diesel said:


> Thanks! Sorry to be tedious, but is the P/N just for the nut, or the nut and bolt?


Nut only. chevycruzeassembler posted the same part number. See posting #15 heading "Detached Exhaust". His invoice is the same as mine. I think the gasket seal is the most important. New gasket with clean mating surfaces and any good stainless bolts maybe 3/8" X 1 1/2" (not sure as I didn't measure them). They didn't charge me anything, although I'm not sure if this is covered under the extended warranty.


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