# How long have your brake pads lasted?



## au201 (May 18, 2013)

You must do a lot of highway driving. I think it's a combination of good OEM parts and the cruze's automatic transmission downshifting and creating quite a bit of engine braking which helps to save your brakes. 


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I didn't have such luck! My calipers were seized and it made it so my brakes were always on so my factory pads lasted @ 42000 miles. Needless to say that killed my MPG for an Eco. So 42K. for mine I guess you could say that is serious city driving!!!


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I threw away my factory pads and rotors at 30K. I was tired of their poor heat handling capacity that caused the material to easily bake to the rotors.

I've since changed for a better pad compound and rotor and have driven nearly 20K with no pulsation whatsoever (I'd seen it in 9K, then 12K with the old ones). Don't drive like an idiot; I just drive in traffic that sometimes likes to go 70-0 for no reason at all.


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## Alex V. (Sep 20, 2013)

Mine are at 68,500 mi. and counting. Front rotors have been turned once but I kept the pads, and I believe they still have at least 1/3 left - maybe more like half. Mine's an manual and I seldom clutch-brake in normal driving. I'm a little displeased at how quickly the Cruze's brakes get hot, but, for the same reason I make allowances in other lacking areas of the car, it isn't designed to be raced.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

At 60k the dealer was so pressed for me to replace my pads and rotors. The car felt like it stopped fine to me but why not upgrade from the stock setup? Went ahead and got Centric Blanks and StopTech pads. Started tear down and this happens...


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## anthonysmith93 (Jul 15, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> At 60k the dealer was so pressed for me to replace my pads and rotors. The car felt like it stopped fine to me but why not upgrade from the stock setup? Went ahead and got Centric Blanks and StopTech pads. Started tear down and this happens...


No wonder they wanted you to replace! haha


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## zen_ (Mar 15, 2015)

Not sure how many miles were on my pads when I took them off @ 125K, but my guess is the PO probably changed them once since the caliper bolts with thread lock were not insanely hard to get off. There was still like 50% pad left, but as others have said, the OEM pads / rotors were simply not cutting it for long periods of time in city driving. The Centric rotors + Raybestos EHT pads handle heat much better, seem to have a little more bite, and dust less, but the pads are a little noisy totally cold.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Use to live in a country, (USA) where every town of reasonable size had an electroplater, until the EPA banned them all. Was watching that Chopper program on Discovery, said they had to ship parts down to Tennessee, did the EPA skip that one? Mexico is more like it.

Putting those steel clips on those cast iron pad brackets is okay, until they trap road salt, expands, and locks the pads. Really have to stay on top of this. Doesn't help to have a DOT that spreads tons of this salt on the roads, but think they are finally getting wise to this. Use to pour tons of salt with eight inches of snow on the roads, not a plow, just a salt truck.

Not only wrecking our vehicles, but the road as well. After a huge battle did manage to get my rear disc calipers replaced, they were never plated and refused to ratchet anymore. But they refused to replace those pad holders. So cleaned them myself and gave them a heavy coat of anti-seize, still tees me off. Want 61 bucks for that POS piece of cast iron. Even humidity will rust these things, but maybe not a problem in Arizona, sure is here.

Know people who are lucky to hit 4K miles for brakes, a green light means to floor the gas pedal, a red light means to slam on the brakes. Just way too many variables. Still lots of pad left at 45K miles, but really have to stay on top of these.


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## fj5gtx (Sep 1, 2014)

My originals only lasted about 200 miles.... I bought my 14 eco on a Tuesday evening, and on the following Saturday - I replaced the front brake pads with aftermarket ceramic pads. I prefer brake pads that don't immediately turn my rims black! I also took the opportunity to remove the retaining screw from the rotors and the drums. I believe those are to retain the component placement while its on the assembly line - and look like they could be a royal PITA to remove once corroded.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

What kind of caliper is this? Sure doesn't look OE, looks like a good one. Torx is a four letter word.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

fj5gtx said:


> My originals only lasted about 200 miles.... I bought my 14 eco on a Tuesday evening, and on the following Saturday - I replaced the front brake pads with aftermarket ceramic pads. I prefer brake pads that don't immediately turn my rims black! I also took the opportunity to remove the retaining screw from the rotors and the drums.* I believe those are to retain the component placement while its on the assembly line - and look like they could be a royal PITA to remove once corroded.*


That's what they are for initially and this tool helps remove them. You hit with hammer and turn in the direction you wish it to go.














NickD said:


> What kind of caliper is this? Sure doesn't look OE, looks like a good one. Torx is a four letter word.


 OEM calipers with Centric Premium Rotors and Power Stop Evolution Plus Z17 pads

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4379013&cc=3000993&jsn=1

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4504491&cc=3000993&jsn=2


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I had mine checked at 60K miles and was told that based on wear the fronts should last for 250K or so and the rears close to 300K.


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## cruze2011white (Feb 2, 2011)

If your brakes are that rusted you need to be cleaning your car during the winter months after a snow. My moms car was like that only because it was never driven much after snow. I have my original rear rotors and pads and I been through ohio winters with a lot of salt. Front were replaced at 90k. The first chance I get I the underbody sprayed on my car, **** I even do it by hand and bare the cold if I have too at a self service place.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

fj5gtx said:


> My originals only lasted about 200 miles.... I bought my 14 eco on a Tuesday evening, and on the following Saturday - I replaced the front brake pads with aftermarket ceramic pads. I prefer brake pads that don't immediately turn my rims black! I also took the opportunity to remove the retaining screw from the rotors and the drums. I believe those are to retain the component placement while its on the assembly line - and look like they could be a royal PITA to remove once corroded.


OEMs are already ceramic


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

cruze2011white said:


> If your brakes are that rusted you need to be cleaning your car during the winter months after a snow. My moms car was like that only because it was never driven much after snow. I have my original rear rotors and pads and I been through ohio winters with a lot of salt. Front were replaced at 90k. The first chance I get I the underbody sprayed on my car, **** I even do it by hand and bare the cold if I have too at a self service place.


The Cruze gets washed about 2 times a week in the winter. Underground heated garage FTW but the amount of salt doesn't matter with frequency of washes. My other car sat and still rusts not touching salt.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

> That's what they are for initially and this tool helps remove them. You hit with hammer and turn in the direction you wish it to go.



Have a couple of those, by also have a Made in the USA impact wrench with an adjustment on it, can turn it down to zero, pull the trigger and slowly increase the pressure while putting a ton of axially force on it. Ratchets very slowly with light impacts to break it free. If I hit it with full force, bit will round out the inside of those Torx.

Okay for the rotors, but a heck of a lot of these Torx things you don't have a straight shot, so tend to put another four letter word in front of that four letter Torx word.

Took the liberty of blowing up your photo and made it brighter.

View attachment 194970


Ha, now it looks like OE, see you have some plating left on your pad holders, like I been saying, buying a brand new vehicle is like buying a lottery ticket. Are you feeling lucky? Mine are very brown colored, think they call this ferrous oxide and came from the factory unplated.


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## Yates (Aug 24, 2012)

Can't speak for the Cruze yet...it only has 24000 miles on it. But I recently replaced my 04 GMC Canyon front brakes at 60000 and they still had a good 15000 left at mostly city driving. Changed them anyway since they were already up on the lift. It was fitted with the low dust type brake pads which seem to outlast the cheapos three times as long.


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## sparkman (Oct 15, 2015)

Mine are almost toast at 35k. Going to have them changed next oil change, there is some vibration under hard braking too.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I changed my front rotors and pads at 27,000km because of vibration and wear in the rotor. The new ones have been great and braking is much smoother. The rears pads were changed and discs machined at 43,000km. I now get very little dust on the wheels.

View attachment 194978


The rust on those brakes is worse than even old cars in Sydney, sure glad we never have to worry about salt on the road.


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## Handles (Oct 8, 2012)

Changing from my winter tires to summer ones about 2 months ago, i checked things out and both front and rears have plenty of life left in them. '11 eco MT, 105,000 miles. Quite a bit of highway driving to work, but during the week it's city driving. So i'm pretty pleased.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

NickD said:


> Have a couple of those, by also have a Made in the USA impact wrench with an adjustment on it, can turn it down to zero, pull the trigger and slowly increase the pressure while putting a ton of axially force on it. Ratchets very slowly with light impacts to break it free. If I hit it with full force, bit will round out the inside of those Torx.
> 
> Okay for the rotors, but a heck of a lot of these Torx things you don't have a straight shot, so tend to put another four letter word in front of that four letter Torx word.
> 
> ...


LOL Who knows what happened between your year and my year. Seems like a bunch of discontinued parts if you go looking. The current calipers are like $75 each. What did you pay for the rears and did they come looking better than the fronts new? 

Here is a up close before I took em apart. I may grab more closer pics later thursday when I go redo the pins. Did pads rotors and fluid and braking is pulling to the side. no hung caliper evidence, just want to cover all bases before blaming one of the drums. 














sparkman said:


> Mine are almost toast at 35k. Going to have them changed next oil change, there is some vibration under hard braking too.


We can totally help with that. GM parts list our pads at $140 or so and my dealer wanted like $300 for the job. $127 later I had pads and rotors better than stock.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Been doing my own brake jobs for years now, like 64 years, major tools are my fingers. C-Clamp? If I can't push that piston in with two thumbs by releasing the bleeder first periphery of the piston needs to be cleaned first, putting on new boots is the last step in a caliper.

Some tools I do use are hones for wheel cylinders, calipers, and master cylinders, but with many today, can't even buy new rubber, not a darn reason I couldn't hone the master cylinder on many vehicles, but claim and lie like crazy, have to buy a brand new one for $$$$$. Rubber is the key problem.

See guys at shops install pads with sledge hammers, if you can't put these in with your fingers, they are two tight and will never release. With drum, have to pull the backing plates, clean and paint them if reusable. Shoes have be lubricated, if they stick, your back up self adjustment won't work, found anti-seize to be the best lubricant, also for the contact points of pads.

Been stuck with ABS for years now, have to work if stuck with them, could lose an insurance claim if they don't, more crazy laws. Some had shorted transistor, that I could replace, others needed just a good flushing out, could do this by hot wiring the ABS pump. Can't do this on the Cruze, really tees me off, no access to the pump lead and need a GM Tech II scanner for this. And they sure have that POS module buried. Scope was my major tool to check the sensors, really no access for this either. 

Yesterday my DIC blank out saying my Stabitrack was bad, not even using the darn thing. Checked my rear view mirror, nobody behind me, stepped on the clutch, switched off the ignition, not far enough to lock the steering wheel, another stupid thing with cars that never worked for thief protection. Opened and closed the driver's door, another stupid thing to shut down everything. Put it back in run, eased out the clutch, engine started, then I could read my speedometer again.

Know I have yet another stupid point contact relay someplace with dirty contacts, not getting a clean voltage for a power on reset. Really hate how they are making vehicles today. Cheap, cheap, cheap, all except for the sticker price and replacement parts. We are sure getting robbed.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Oh they lie like crazy with ABS not interfering with normal braking, it sure in the hail does. A stuck solenoid valve or a shorted drive transistor, you get no brakes to that particular wheel period!

HOW CAN THEY LIE LIKE THIS AND GET AWAY WITH IT?

And they expect an 89 cent microcontroller to compensate for the the human brain? Maybe so with way too many idiots driving on the roads. Idiots designing for idiots is more like it.


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## IndyCruze11 (Aug 15, 2016)

I see this is an older thread yet did not know where else might be good to share.

So I'm not clear what it is about the brakes on my 2011 LT, but they have been the longest life I've ever encountered! I first heard some noise at 80K and had them checked to be told they did not even look half worn. Mostly highway miles is a strong factor as I have often seen about double the life on most cars. So it was not until recently *with 162 K miles* that I heard the noise again to return for a check at Thrifty Brakes. I've known the owner for many years, as he has often been accustomed to sending me away with no expense as he says "you'll be back when they truly do need work/replacement". The backs looked like new (no surprise given the front taking on most of the stopping work) with no parts required. Indeed the front pads were finally worn down requiring replacement and the rotors were questionable enough that I decided to have them turned. My friend, the owner, commented that he'd be out of business if many of his customers had similar experience. Highway driving does make a big difference from start/stop city driving. With that, I asked for the OEM stock pads as I'd love to go another 160k before more brake work. 

I'm just wondering if other owners are also seeing similar super long-life.


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## winks79 (Dec 20, 2013)

Got 64k on my 2013 and still look like new. I expect to get 150k miles plus out of them. Driving habits make a huge difference. I get high mileage out of all my vehicles brakes. Anticipate stopping and coast to a stop, not waiting to the last second to stop, will all extend life of brakes on any car, but it does seem the Cruze does exceptionally well. Weight of vehicle, and highway versus city driving, does make a huge difference also. Heck I have a 93' Sierra that still has the original pads and rotors on it also, but it only has 114k miles on it.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I had my brakes checked at 60K and was told they should last well over 200K at the rate I was using them.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

IndyCruze11 said:


> I see this is an older thread yet did not know where else might be good to share.
> 
> So I'm not clear what it is about the brakes on my 2011 LT, but they have been the longest life I've ever encountered! I first heard some noise at 80K and had them checked to be told they did not even look half worn. Mostly highway miles is a strong factor as I have often seen about double the life on most cars. So it was not until recently *with 162 K miles* that I heard the noise again to return for a check at Thrifty Brakes. I've known the owner for many years, as he has often been accustomed to sending me away with no expense as he says "you'll be back when they truly do need work/replacement". The backs looked like new (no surprise given the front taking on most of the stopping work) with no parts required. Indeed the front pads were finally worn down requiring replacement and the rotors were questionable enough that I decided to have them turned. My friend, the owner, commented that he'd be out of business if many of his customers had similar experience. Highway driving does make a big difference from start/stop city driving. With that, I asked for the OEM stock pads as I'd love to go another 160k before more brake work.
> 
> I'm just wondering if other owners are also seeing similar super long-life.


If you have rear drums get them adjusted. This will extend the life of your brakes even longer.


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## cruze01 (Mar 25, 2011)

I'm at 67K now and my pads and rotors still look brand new! I'm sure there is wear on them if you had the proper tools to measure it but I can tell at this rate I wont need a break job till way over 100K. And yes, I will absolutely go back with the OEM pads. I don't know what these things are made of but I've never seen this good of service out of any after market pad and I've bought the best I could get from the local parts stores.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Checked mine on Friday, not bad but definitely won't last until 50k miles.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I can't explain why but my brakes were replaced at 27K km with both pads and rotors worn out on the front. The rear pads were replaced at 43K km but rotors only needed machining. The car is a diesel and spends nearly all of it's time in stop start driving, but even so I am not hard on brakes as my previous Commodore went more than twice that distance on pads and weighed the same as the Cruze and in the same driving conditions. I used after market rotors and pads on the front and better pads on the rear. Before I changed the brakes dust on the wheels was a real problem, now there is almost no dust at all.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Those metal clips on the pad holders are sure a problem in road salt areas, trap salt, rust, expand those clips and literally lock the pads. Another problem is the tip of the pads themselves getting rusty jammed on the outside of those metal clips.

Had to stay on top of this by removing all four pad brackets with the pads, had four wheel disc brakes. Cleaning off that rust, and coating with anti-seize that over the years found to be the best to use. That black brake grease stuff is worthless, only good for a month or two.

By doing a lot of downshifting for engine braking, not slamming on the brakes like just about every idiot does around here, had practically no pad wear even after 45,000 miles. If these pad holder were electroplated at all in China, was only done for a half a second.

Use to have electroplating in my own plant, ha, that was employee benefits, but when that became history, had a local electroplater in town, wasn't very expensive, but our crazy EPA banned electroplating in this country sometime in the mid-late 80's, so would have to ship to Mexico or China. 

Another problem I did not have with the Cruze was poorly vulcanized brake hoses, many layers, the inside layer would collapse and act like a check valve not permitting the pads to return to their home position. The boots on those calipers would dry up and let road salt get on the inside, would take two strong men and a boy to pull them out. Calipers could not self center.

Yet another problem is ABS still using hygroscopic brake fluid, moisture would seize those valves and even leave them in the closed position, no brakes to those wheels at all. Should be replaced at least every three years.

Whenever I stop, do a quick walk around holding the back of my hand near each drum or rotor, if I feel excess heat, I know I have problems. And the way they are making this crap today and with extensive use of road salt, can always expect problems. Does road salt really save lives?

Cruze also dumped the rear proportioning valves, pulsing the rear calipers or drums with the two rear ABS valves. Not even sure what happens if your ABS light is on, typically switches everything off. But if those rear brakes are applied full, hitting your pedal would sure put your car into a skid. Anything to save a buck.


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## fyrftr422 (Aug 15, 2012)

228,000 kms (142,500 miles) and still running original pads and rotors. Still unbelievable, but, yes, I live in the country (hour and a half commute to work) and do mostly highway driving, obviously.


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## DMC (Oct 22, 2012)

I'm at 105,000 miles, still have original pads and shoes. Probably won't need to replace for another 20,000.


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## Sklyn (Jan 7, 2017)

on my MY14 1.6L Turbo Manual SriV I'm at about 45000km (28k miles) and near due for front pads and discs. I thought that was pretty reasonable! Will not be replacing with genuine though, upgrades are cheap enough and OEM are sooo dusty!!!!


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I replaced the front pads and rotors at 27K km on my 2012 diesel and the rear pads at 43K km and no dust at all now. I used RDA brakes.


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## Porkchopkb (Nov 20, 2016)

I have 74k on my 2013 and they are close now to needing replacement. I will go with OEM pads again


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## fyrftr422 (Aug 15, 2012)

Well, I had to finally change out my front pads at around 245,000kms (153,000 miles) and not because they were at the end of their life (but they were **** cloae to it). Had one of my slide pins stick and was slowly grinding the pad away. Guess I hadn't lubricated the slides enough lately, stupid me. Still 245k, I'm impressed. I know have 253,000 so I should be good till almost half a million kms.


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