# Control Arm Replacement?



## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

I'm looking to replace my front right control arm after I verified it was bad (ball joint) during a recent alignment check. According to the alldatadiy.com service manual, all 4 bolts are to be replaced. I have attached one of the steps as reference. It seems odd to me that GM would use TTY bolts for this application. Can anyone with access to a GM service manual confirm this?

I just want to confirm that all 4 bolts mounting the control arm to the car must be replaced as specified in the alldatadiy service manual before I go out and buy these ridiculously expensive bolts (~$30 total from a dealer).


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## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

I don't have access to the manual, but as a technician, I wouldn't hesitate to reuse bolts that looks like they're in decent shape. This is said about most bolts on this car like the caliper bolts. I would call and get an itemized quote for the job from GM without mentioning them and see what happens if you're still concerned...

I should mention that (most of the time) when bolts are that important for replacement, they're included in a mood part number. The pinch bolt you show is the only one I've seen ever included in an aftermarket control arm...


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

Ok, so digging into this further, it looks like they revised the control arm part number (and maybe the design?) for the 2014+. It looks like for the 2014+ part number, all bolts are to be replaced. I have not found yet if the 2013 bolts are reusable with the revised control arm, or if they need to be replaced just like the 2014+ control arm mounting bolts.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I believe I seen the Control Arms in the Rockauto catalog, and possibly I think there was a Dorman aftermarket application for this. Dorman is typically pretty good at providing all the parts required, or possibly having these bolts separately. 

It seems like there's dozens of bolts on this car that are torque to yield based on the instuctions, yet I'm guessing shops aren't replacing them, or there would be more sources for these crazy special bolts. 

One option is to use an online GM parts catalog to see if you can determine not only the GM part number, but also the metric description. With that info you can order bolts from boltdepot.com. I think that's the website that I've used in the past.

http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...012&ukey_trimLevel=25215&searchString=control arm

The nut is #28 but the bolt appears to be a #30, which doesn't appear to be listed.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

I can find them on gmpartsdirect.com, I just don't want to spend $30 just for 4 bolts. I'm almost positive the dorman kit doesn't come with them. I will see what comes with the revised part number control arm when it gets here tomorrow and I can compare it with the old one.

I may pull the bolts and take them into a dealership to compare with what the new ones look like.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

BowtieGuy said:


> Can anyone with access to a GM service manual confirm this?


My 2013 manual lists a number of bolts in the Front Suspension tightening specifications as "Use NEW Fastener". (Emphasis preserved.)

Most of the torque specs are torque + degrees.

For example, for the "Control Arm to Steering Knuckle Bold and Nut"



First Pass: 37 lb ft (1)
Second Pass: Loosen the Nut: 120 degrees
Third Pass: 37 lb ft
Final Pass: 35 degrees

(1) Use NEW Fastener.


Here's the list of torques that do NOT have that notation:


Front Suspension Strut Mount Nut
Steering Gear Outer Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Nut
Strut Shaft Nut

That's it.


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## atikovi (Dec 27, 2011)

I'd say a dab of Loctite would work just fine.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'm not going to risk my life over $30.

There are other places I'd be more open to experimenting, but not something as critical as control arms. 

Alldata: Why shouldn't torque-to-yield head bolts be re-used

"Once stretched, they are not as strong as before. Consequently, they cannot provide the same amount of clamping force and may break or shear off if reused."

If you end up in a accident, and it's found that you didn't replace the TTY bolts, I'm not sure as your insurance company will stand by you.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks for the reply ChevyGuy.

I know the dangers of reusing TTY bolts. I just wanted to confirm that they are in fact TTY and do need replaced. Do I just need new bolts? Or do I need new bolts AND nuts with them?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Re use the nuts.....only the bolt stretches to yield.

Rob


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

Thanks. I figured, but this car is so young in life that this repair has quite a few miles to go. So I would rather make sure the repair can go the distance. I'm also not entirely sure the bolts are actually TTY, but still have the requirement. I'll replace them and compare new with old.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Using GM parts direct to determine some of the part numbers and then taking those part numbers into the dealership site that I listed above gives the following:

Final confirmation is up to the person doing the project. I have not ordered these parts..

11589280 Bolt M12x1.75x95.9. (8.9)

This is the way to distill this information. 

The bolt is Metric size M12, the thread pitch is 1.75 and it's 95.9 mm long. The bolt hardness grade is (8.9)

You'll find M12 x 1.75 bolts fairly easily online. Google Metric Bolt depot and you'll find a good website.

Find something that is at a minimum a hardness of 8.9, you could go higher if that's what the supplier has.

Some of GM's bolts are specific lengths for GM and are harder to find. In this case I believe the bolts have nuts on them, and do not thread into blind holes. Therefore you maybe able to go with the next standard length beyond 95.9 MM if there's enough clearance beyond the nut. I bet the standard length is 100 mm.

I hope this helps people find metric fasteners. There's no reason to pay $10.00 for a bolt. 

You'll have to determine if you need a standard bolt or a flange bolt. Flange bolt has the washer built in. 

Something like this, and it's a grade #10.9

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17529

I think you could also use a grade 8.8 with confidence. 

I thought someone mentioned the torque spec on this was around 40 ft-lbs. I don't know how an 8.9 hardened bolt at this low of a torque can be stretched under the Torque to Yield typical definition. I've run into this before on the Intrigues that were built over 15 years ago. It seems like any critical piece of hardware is marked in the manual as one time use. Is it really distorted, or for legal reasons do they want the part replaced? We'll never know.. 

The information above is to be used at your own risk. I'm not responsible if something goes wrong, but I have sized and purchased bolts before rather than buying dealership hardware..


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

Bolt part numbers are:
11518632 (x1)
11589279 (x2)
11589280 (x1)

Im just going to keep it simple and go with the dealership bolts. Ridiculously expensive for 4 bolts, but I know they are the correct parts.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

carbon02 said:


> I thought someone mentioned the torque spec on this was around 40 ft-lbs. I don't know how an 8.9 hardened bolt at this low of a torque can be stretched under the Torque to Yield typical definition.


I doubt if the 37 ft-lbs does the stretching. I'll bet it's the 35 degrees that comes next.

And I wouldn't be all that confident that the specs you've listed would cover a TTY bolt.


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