# Engine Power Reduced and Oil Life?



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Car believes that the engine has overheated. 

When was the last time you checked the coolant level?

What modifications have you made to the vehicle? Any tunes, etc.?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'll check for a coolant leak/coolant level when I drop my wife off at the car. Can't say I've checked it recently, but it hasn't had an issue with running even close to hot, well, ever. I'll ask her if she noticed if the coolant temp was super high.

The car is totally stock in regards to the powertrain. No tunes or anything. CAI is still sitting in the box it was shipped in, haven't gotten around to installing it (probably a good thing, just for convenience of not having to prove it didn't cause anything).


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Reset the oil life monitor and see if it allows the car to operate normally again. Keep in mind the oil life monitor doesn't know what oil you're using. It assumes you are using an oil that barely passes their required specification.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Do you check oil on every fill up? An oil problem will cause overheat, and perhaps that is the issue. Modern cars will shut down to prevent catastrophic internal engine damage. 

Don't assume synthetic oil will never have a problem. Fuel dilution is always a potential problem for these cars, seen as increasing oil level. 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

My wife fills it up almost every time, since it's her car, so no, I don't. 

It's only a few hundred miles since it hit 0%, which is usually around 7400-7500 miles, but I'd have to check. As far as she remembers, the coolant gauge wasn't hot, but I doubt she paid attention to that. I'm not sure the vehicle could physically overheat in that short amount of time, anyway, so I wonder if a sensor could be at fault.

Guess I won't know until I pull codes. I will try resetting the oil life to see if that does anything, as well.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

_Condition/Concern_

_Since 2010 all GM vehicles have been equipped with the oil life monitor (OLM) system_
_The monitor calculates the percent of oil life remaining, based on 3 pathways_

_The OLM starts its calculation for all pathways after the first 50 miles to account for marshalling and time before sale. Subsequently, calculations begin immediately after each reset._

_Recommendation/Instructions_
_Oil Life Monitor Calculation Pathways:_
_1. Engine revolutions- Oil life starts with a fixed number of revolutions and will decrease with each revolution. Cold / hot coolant temp readings have multipliers that reduce engine revolutions pathway quicker depending on how far from the normal oil temperature the vehicle is operating._
_Note: If engine coolant temp gets above 260F, engine overheat condition, the oil life will go to 0%._

_2. Mileage from last reset – Starting with MY 2013, the OLM is capped at 7500 miles for all GM powertrains except the Volt. In perfect conditions a vehicle would reach 7500 miles from the last reset and the oil life left would be 0%._

_3. Time- This pathway is a liner function, a fixed decrease in oil life for a given time after the oil life is reset. The oil life will drop to 0% after 1 year regardless of the amount of engine revolutions or how many miles since the reset._

_Note: The Volt uses a 2 year timer instead of 1 year. It also uses the engine revolution counter. It does not use the mileage pathway to count down. _


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

So that kind of makes sense then - it _thinks_ it has overheated (I doubt it did) - so that's why it came up and said "Engine Oil Life 0%" and why the fan was on Hardcore-mode.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I have a 2012 MY13 Holden Cruze diesel, so oil life may differ to the US diesel. I have just done an oil change after 8,000km and 12 months. The oil life was at 61%. I have found that both the engine fans, car has 2 fans, are really loud after switch off when the car is doing a DPF regen. This is not a problem unless the DPF light is burning, then you just keep driving above 2,000rpm till it goes out. (I believe the US cars don't use this light).


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> My wife fills it up almost every time, since it's her car, so no, I don't.
> 
> It's only a few hundred miles since it hit 0%, which is usually around 7400-7500 miles, but I'd have to check. As far as she remembers, the coolant gauge wasn't hot, but I doubt she paid attention to that. I'm not sure the vehicle could physically overheat in that short amount of time, anyway, so I wonder if a sensor could be at fault.
> 
> Guess I won't know until I pull codes. I will try resetting the oil life to see if that does anything, as well.


I have the same issue with my wife not wanting to check oil as well, so I try to do pre-emptive fill-ups for her so I can be sure it gets done, and my sons are trained to do it when they are with her.. not having any luck getting the daughter to do it! 

I'd advise never lettting that oil monitor go to zero... but that aside, yes an oil problem can lead to a very rapid engine overheat. On my first car, many years ago, it had a broken guage line.. that caused low pressure and it ran out of oil, and all in less that 3 miles. It got really hot, and was quite loud as well. I plugged the leak, topped of the oil and set out again, thinking perhaps I was OK, given the very short run time involved.. I was wrong. In that short time it had spun a connecting rod bearing. It went about 10 miles, now not leaking any oil, but the bearing was making enough heat to over heat the engine coolant, and it got very, very loud as the connecting rod was basically boring out a smaller diameter on the crank shaft. 

From this experience, I never push my luck on oil and oil changes, I'd preffer to do them on the early side than to find that kind of engine damage. That car was a cheapo, and the new crankshaft cost more than the car was worth.. so I used it for parts and got another cheapo car. 

I'm hoping yours is not a catastrophic problem, but running the oil past the change interval is something I would never do.. based on my experience. 

On the plus side, GM (and most OEMs) have done well to have the cars system's cause an engine shut down, as it did in your case to protect the engine. A friend of mine had an oil change done at a quick lube place, and they did not tighten the filter.. which later came loose on a long trip, and on the highway, it ran out ALL of the oil.. his car shut down fast enough to prevent any damage, my older car was a 1979 model, none of that technology existed then. In your case the good news may be the engine systems protected you from the worst, we can hope for that to be the case.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

All righty, spent about 15 min with the car while my wife called AAA to get the tow truck out, prior to heading home so I could get some while she waits on the tow truck - I'll go pick her up and drive her to the dealer so I can give them the run down of everything.

Anyway - turning ignition on (but not starting), no abnormal messages. Started the car, let it idle for a few minutes, drove it around the parking lot, let it idle a few more...nothing, worked fine. Coolant temp seemed to be acting like it always has. I checked coolant level prior to starting it, and it seemed a bit low - but I don't know for sure considering there appears to be no Cold/Hot markings on the surge tank at all. It was at the lowest strength rib. 

I also pulled up Torque/Bi-Scan. It has the two codes we've had for months that come and go - P20E2 and P20E4 (which seem to point to EGT #2 having some problems, as those are correlation codes between 1/2 and 2/3, however I noticed two new codes: P2428 (EGT Too high bank 1) and B2AAA (which, from what I can find, is some kind of ghost code nobody can see to decipher). Bi-Scan also shows "[GMX] Reduced Engine Power Reason (History): High Temperature", so that confirms it was a high-temp shutdown.

So that begs the question - could a false EGT sensor reading cause the high-temp limp-home?


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> All righty, spent about 15 min with the car while my wife called AAA to get the tow truck out, prior to heading home so I could get some while she waits on the tow truck - I'll go pick her up and drive her to the dealer so I can give them the run down of everything.
> 
> Anyway - turning ignition on (but not starting), no abnormal messages. Started the car, let it idle for a few minutes, drove it around the parking lot, let it idle a few more...nothing, worked fine. Coolant temp seemed to be acting like it always has. I checked coolant level prior to starting it, and it seemed a bit low - but I don't know for sure considering there appears to be no Cold/Hot markings on the surge tank at all. It was at the lowest strength rib.
> 
> ...


Hmm, it appears that yes, the EGT might cause the high temp shutdown. The coolant tank does have a full cold mark, it's not easy to see, but its there, and it is at the seem of the tank, near the top, so yes, your coolant tank is low. My 2015 seems to lose a tiny amount of coolant, ever since new, and I've had it looked at when still under warranty. They could not find a leak.. it still has the UV dye added to assist in finding a small leak. It would appear you have some coolant loss, and if that tank is that low, it could have sucked in an air bubble.. and it might have been an actual coolant temp issue in addition to the EGT. 

What concerns me, you have worn out oil, which gets thin, and more thin when it gets diluted with fuel as part of post injection for regen, and to keep up EGTs for the emmissions system. If you have oil leaking by in the turbo, it can be overfueling the engine and be part of that high EGT. Did you check oil level, and what was the level? 

I should also point out, it is not a good idea to ignore an EGT temperature code, if the computer is not getting an accurate EGT for regen, it could be doing an inadequate regen, or even an over hot regen. The EGT probes are used to control the temperature in the exhaust during regen, it's actually a pretty narrow temperature band, and it's just below where the DPF materials can be damaged.. we are talking 1200F, not much above that and the structural materails begin to melt.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Well, even if the coolant is at that lower line - that was a cold reading. It's the surge tank, so it will only go up when it is hot, so I'm not too concerned just yet - I have more Dexcool here at home that I can add, if the dealer doesn't while it is there. 

The oil isn't that worn out - we've run it to 0% every single time without issue. I'm not too concerned about that, seeing as people have gone far longer without issue on other oils. The GM stuff isn't nearly as good as AMSOil or anything, but I'm quite sure it's not junk, either. And no I wasn't able to check the level, as the engine wasn't warm, so I could not get an accurate reading if I had. 

The EGT code has thus far only been correlation of the 1 and 3 sensors to sensor number 2 - meaning sensor number 2 is the culprit. The other two sensors work still, so it should not be a massive issue, and I've watched them while (my wife was) driving, and did not see anything out of the ordinary. It's possible that EGT2 could be why fuel economy is a little lower as of late. But one of them definitely pegged the engine enough that it caused the shutdown - but I'd bet large sums of money it wasn't the actual coolant temp (whether it was sensor or not remains to be seen, but it cannot feasibly have heated up that fast, especially being a cold-blooded diesel). 

It's at the dealer now and my wife has an '18 LT Sedan courtesy car, so they can take their time. Would love if it's something covered under warranty.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Please keep us posted on what the service department finds on this issue.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Absolutely, will do. They should be able to get to it tomorrow morning - but like I said, we have a new Cruze to use in the meantime, so my wife gets to drive something different for a little bit - and something that isn't full of dog hair.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Will be interested to find out the problem. I am not at all concerned about oil going to zero. I have done it once. In the manual it says you have up to 400 miles when it hits zero. I seriously doubt in a few minutes the car was actually over heating, the sensors just made it look that way is my guess.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

IndyDiesel said:


> Will be interested to find out the problem. I am not at all concerned about oil going to zero. I have done it once. In the manual it says you have up to 400 miles when it hits zero. I seriously doubt in a few minutes the car was actually over heating, the sensors just made it look that way is my guess.


Oh does it say that? I'd guess it is right around 500-550 over or so. The dealer couldn't get the car in for a week for an oil change, otherwise we'd have had it done last week. I was going to do it myself with the Euro L and filter in the basement, but the forecast called for rain all week - so of course I planned on that, and it was sunny every day, haha.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Well...this sure looks oddly similar: https://gm.oemdtc.com/8426/14-e-316...engine-stalls-in-idle-2009-2015-opel-vauxhall

If EGT2 needs to be replaced, it doesn't look too bad to do, given it is right on the front of the DPF - shouldn't be too bad to get a wrench on - and it's only $40 for the sensor.

I'm thinking that since it has a P20E2 and P20E4, the common sensor between the two is EGT #2, since that was the only one that seemed to not be consistent between the three on Bi-scan.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

So, the dealer gave me a call this afternoon with the diagnosis. As I thought, the EGT #2 sensor was on its way out, likely getting closer to out than it was previously. This caused the car to become unable to regen on its own this last time - likely causing the EGTs to spike as it tried (this last part is my guess as an engineer). So, in short, EGT #2 needs to be replaced, and the car needs to be forced to do a regen to clear everything out. 

Overall, the total cost is $4XX (because of course neither of these things is powertrain, rather, emissions, with its pidley little warranty), I told them just to go ahead with it. By the time I get parts, and assuming that the bi-scan app can force a regen in the method that the car is requiring, my wife will be without a car for a week, so I felt it best just to have them do it - plus, it is warrantied for a year at least. I'm also wondering if the EGT sensor's funky behavior caused the small drop I've seen (or at least think I've seen, it could be entirely in my head) in overall fuel economy, perhaps regenning more frequently that it should.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

If I read this correctly, moral of the story is the EGT #2 can just ‘go bad’ at anytime without warning? 

That would really bite getting stuck in the middle of my desert commute, well over 110F and 80 miles from the nearest Chevy dealer......ugh.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Well, EGT has been throwing the P20E2 and P20E4 codes since earlier this year. I imagine the sensor has degraded further and further, eventually rendering the vehicle unable to regen at this point. And I'm guessing it spiked a hot enough temp - one that more than likely wasn't even possible with how short the car was driven prior to it doing that and thus was a faulty reading, that it caused the REP and subsequent shutdown.

In short: ******* $40 sensor that can and will go bad causes $400 in repairs. The EGT sensors all look pretty easy to get to, so if I see another EGT code (unless it's within a year and it is #2, the dealer can do that for free), I'll just replace the sensor right then.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Thanks for sharing your experience. If I get those fault codes would be better to just replace sensor and see if that corrects issue. I wonder if your wife drives mostly short distances and that may contribute to having more sensor issues?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Shortish...we work at the same place, our drive is roughly 17 miles each way (25-30 min in the morning, 35-45 min coming home). Where she works out is about 5.5 miles away (~15 min drive), so that would make up the bulk of the short drives. Most tanks are around 95% city. 

I do try to make it a point and try to avoid starting the car to move it out of the driveway to in front of the house, since diesels really hate that, but that doesn't always work out.

When we bought the car, we were located farther away and had a 50 mile drive in to work, so we were doing 100 miles a day in the car, almost all of that freeway, so it really made sense. Granted, it still does pretty **** good on mileage considering we drive almost all city now (Mid-30s in the summer, with her occasional leadfoot and not coasting as long as I would when coming up to a stop), but my Volt is a far better match for all that. And for the most part, the Volt likely matches the cars fuel economy on the freeway, as well, just having a little over half the range, due to the 8.9 gallon gas tank. But charging two cars would be a mighty big pain.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Biscan will absolutely do a service Regen, I've done several and helped test that function for Snipesy. Glad to hear it wasn't more destructive. 
For MPG, if you are running the original ATF in the transmission.. I highly recommend you consider changing it, that will help MPG.. did it to 2 Gen 1 diesels with noticable results. Old fluid was barely noticeable as ATF being as dark as it was. The transmission temp on these cars is really high.. the biscan app can monitor it and I've seen it over 250F! 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

MRO1791 said:


> Biscan will absolutely do a service Regen, I've done several and helped test that function for Snipesy. Glad to hear it wasn't more destructive.
> For MPG, if you are running the original ATF in the transmission.. I highly recommend you consider changing it, that will help MPG.. did it to 2 Gen 1 diesels with noticable results. Old fluid was barely noticeable as ATF being as dark as it was. The transmission temp on these cars is really high.. the biscan app can monitor it and I've seen it over 250F!
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


Okay, good to know in the future. So I could have done it myself - if I wanted to wait for the sensor, that is. 

I have Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic fluid in the trans - put that into the trans in January, then replaced the cooler lines in March, adding more back in (via that goofy ass refill level check procedure). The stock fluid oddly enough, at around 65k, wasn't really all that dark - I was surprised! I didn't notice too much of a difference in transmission operation, it still has its clunky moments.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> Okay, good to know in the future. So I could have done it myself - if I wanted to wait for the sensor, that is.
> 
> I have Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic fluid in the trans - put that into the trans in January, then replaced the cooler lines in March, adding more back in (via that goofy ass refill level check procedure). The stock fluid oddly enough, at around 65k, wasn't really all that dark - I was surprised! I didn't notice too much of a difference in transmission operation, it still has its clunky moments.


I'd guess the driving pattern, geography and climate factor in to the Transmission fluid life. The first car I changed was the one that I bought used, with over 43K miles in 10 months from prior owner, who from service history was driving up and down the west coast, and in to dessert areas of the south west in summer.. so hot, and hills, etc. The second car recently done was not as bad for the fluid, it might have been fine for another 20K, but I changed it at 46k. It had a slight red to its mostly black color, the first was all black and very thin, and the before and after in shift perfomance was very noticable on the first, not so much on the second. Now, the second has had pretty gentle use, but out west we have mountains, and the highest transmission temps I've seen are climbing steep grades at highway speed, that is where I've seen it go over 250F. At that temperature even the best fluid will start to breakdown. It may be that your cold MI winters, and few long steep hills make a difference on the life of the fluid, in fact I'd bet it does.. my wife is from MI, and I've spent considerable time out that way, so I'm pretty familiar with the geography and climate.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

I changed my transmission fluid at 65k miles, it has almost 69k on it now, used Amsoil in it now, I really haven’t had too many funky shifts before or after. My fluid was dark, when I spoke to service manager I think he said almost all transmission fluid turns dark now and it may not be the best way to determine if it’s still working properly. Changing it in the diesel is pretty weird with no dipstick. I like fresh fluids in my cars and for sure believe in maintaining a car.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

MRO1791 said:


> I'd guess the driving pattern, geography and climate factor in to the Transmission fluid life. The first car I changed was the one that I bought used, with over 43K miles in 10 months from prior owner, who from service history was driving up and down the west coast, and in to dessert areas of the south west in summer.. so hot, and hills, etc. The second car recently done was not as bad for the fluid, it might have been fine for another 20K, but I changed it at 46k. It had a slight red to its mostly black color, the first was all black and very thin, and the before and after in shift perfomance was very noticable on the first, not so much on the second. Now, the second has had pretty gentle use, but out west we have mountains, and the highest transmission temps I've seen are climbing steep grades at highway speed, that is where I've seen it go over 250F. At that temperature even the best fluid will start to breakdown. It may be that your cold MI winters, and few long steep hills make a difference on the life of the fluid, in fact I'd bet it does.. my wife is from MI, and I've spent considerable time out that way, so I'm pretty familiar with the geography and climate.


Yeah - and all the highway driving the first half a year with the car probably helped - as well as the trips down to NC and back (and now Atlanta and back), even with the mountains - that car doesn't have to work very hard climbing them. And yes, we have some gradual "hills" here, but for the most part, you're talking very flat. I'd be curious to check the trans temp next time we're making a decently long trip (obviously when my wife is driving), just out of curiosity. 



IndyDiesel said:


> I changed my transmission fluid at 65k miles, it has almost 69k on it now, used Amsoil in it now, I really haven’t had too many funky shifts before or after. My fluid was dark, when I spoke to service manager I think he said almost all transmission fluid turns dark now and it may not be the best way to determine if it’s still working properly. Changing it in the diesel is pretty weird with no dipstick. I like fresh fluids in my cars and for sure believe in maintaining a car.


The service manager is correct. My buddy has a 2010 or 2011 Fusion, and makes it a point to change his trans fluid regularly (with the 6F35 auto - aka, the Ford version of the 6T40), because it comes out alarmingly dark, very quickly. He's thinking it has to do with the fact newer transmissions don't have separate (changeable) filters, and that would make sense to me.

And yes, it's real odd - especially considering it's not even like other "sealed" transmissions which have the typical check plug on the side of the casing (like my 4T45E in my Cobalt)...nope, the check plug is on...the bottom? And you have to count how fast it drips after you open it while it's running...a little disconcerting at first...and then add some random amount of fluid after tightening it back up. The AF40-6 is weird as all ****.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> And yes, it's real odd - especially considering it's not even like other "sealed" transmissions which have the typical check plug on the side of the casing (like my 4T45E in my Cobalt)...nope, the check plug is on...the bottom? And you have to count how fast it drips after you open it while it's running...a little disconcerting at first...and then add some random amount of fluid after tightening it back up. The AF40-6 is weird as all ****.


Well, I had the VW DSG transmission on that 2012 TDI.. and it is MORE weird. Not only did it have a similar "snorkel" style drain, and level check.. the only way to put fluid in was from the bottom, with a special tool of course. It was possible to fill very slow via the filter housing on top, but that was not in the manual, and it needed very special fluid... and to do the job many things, including the battery had to come out. I guess after that the AF-40-6 seemed closer to normal to me, but certainly odd compared to most!


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

I measured the fluid at each transmission fluid change, well some gets spilled which happens and how do you measure spillage? So I found it to be a guessing game. I guess I estimated pretty close, it has had no funky shifts since, and hasn’t had for last 30k miles. 

My son previously had a 2005 Pontiac Vibe which was same drivetrain as a Toyota Matrix, had 155k miles on when he sold it, we changed the transmission fluid every 20-25k Miles, was just a drain plug as I recall and and easy fill, the fluid was always dark. It didn’t cost much so I just did it anyways. So I have been exposed to this color of fluid before.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

IndyDiesel said:


> I measured the fluid at each transmission fluid change, well some gets spilled which happens and how do you measure spillage? So I found it to be a guessing game. I guess I estimated pretty close, it has had no funky shifts since, and hasn’t had for last 30k miles.


I found the AF40-6's refill procedure online, so that's what I used after I did the trans lines.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

So @MP81 .....wife still drivin’ the loaner or is the diesel back on the road???


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Oh, no, she got the car back Wednesday afternoon.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Glad to hear it...so just the #2 EGT sensor and a forced regen did the trick?

Maybe it was another thread but for some reason I thought the sensor was back-ordered...


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Seems to have done it, yup! I have yet to pop in the scanner and compare the EGT temps now, but they should be pretty similar I would think...

Yeah, they only needed a day to get it.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

MRO1791 said:


> I have the same issue with my wife not wanting to check oil as well, so I try to do pre-emptive fill-ups for her so I can be sure it gets done, and my sons are trained to do it when they are with her.. not having any luck getting the daughter to do it!
> 
> I'd advise never lettting that oil monitor go to zero... but that aside, yes an oil problem can lead to a very rapid engine overheat. On my first car, many years ago, it had a broken guage line.. that caused low pressure and it ran out of oil, and all in less that 3 miles. It got really hot, and was quite loud as well. I plugged the leak, topped of the oil and set out again, thinking perhaps I was OK, given the very short run time involved.. I was wrong. In that short time it had spun a connecting rod bearing. It went about 10 miles, now not leaking any oil, but the bearing was making enough heat to over heat the engine coolant, and it got very, very loud as the connecting rod was basically boring out a smaller diameter on the crank shaft.
> 
> ...


I have had my oil analyzed several times on the Cruze and even after I felt the oil was at the end of its life based on miles driven when the oil was tested the results have shown that it had MUCH more life in it!!! This is with the dealer supplied Dexos 2 oil as well as the Penzoil Dexos 2 that many of us are using now from Walmart.

Now when I get to 0% oil life I sample the oil and will follow their oil change recommendations.

My 2 cents on the issue... YMMV


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Chris Tobin said:


> I have had my oil analyzed several times on the Cruze and even after I felt the oil was at the end of its life based on miles driven when the oil was tested the results have shown that it had MUCH more life in it!!! This is with the dealer supplied Dexos 2 oil as well as the Penzoil Dexos 2 that many of us are using now from Walmart.
> 
> Now when I get to 0% oil life I sample the oil and will follow their oil change recommendations.
> 
> My 2 cents on the issue... YMMV


Who are you using to test oil with? Do they test oxidation?

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Who are you using to test oil with? Do they test oxidation?
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk



I use Apex Oil Lab in Grand Rapids, Michigan. https://apexoillab.com/ I met the team when I did an article on the process for Diesel World magazine a few years back. Very high end facility with a very skilled and knowledgable team on hand!!!

Yes they do test Oxidation By-products, my measurements have ranged from a low of 13.9 abs/mm2 to a high of 18.3 abs/mm2. I personally do not know what abs/mm2 is, but they do and they said the oil was suitable for continued use and that ALL elements were acceptable. I trust their knowledge, expertise and equipment. BTW, I have had 0% fuel and Glycol dillution of my oil at every test interval over the life of the car. The Penzoil Euro L Dexos 2 oil seems to be good stuff at a great price, it is awesome to buy the big jug at my local Walmart for less than $20!!! I have been running it since the free oil changes expired.


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## sparkola (Jun 9, 2014)

I had repeated forced engine shutdowns while on the highway a few years ago. Same reduced power yada yada. Changed my EGT sensor #1 that’s right by the turbo. Issue went away. Never threw a code for it but I ended up changing all 3 and no issues since then.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

MP81 said:


> I found the AF40-6's refill procedure online, so that's what I used after I did the trans lines.





MP81 said:


> And yes, it's real odd - especially considering it's not even like other "sealed" transmissions which have the typical check plug on the side of the casing (like my 4T45E in my Cobalt)...nope, the check plug is on...the bottom? And you have to count how fast it drips after you open it while it's running...a little disconcerting at first...and then add some random amount of fluid after tightening it back up. The AF40-6 is weird as all ****.


What was your source for the refill procedure online, and how much did you determine to add after reinstalling the level-check plug? I've found some procedures online that seem to vary, so I went with the method and quantities that were most commonly cited when I did my drain/fill for the lines last year. Wondering how the procedure you used compares to what I found. I ended up adding 0.4 (quarts or liters, can't remember) after the level check. I'm wondering if adjusting the fill level will make any difference on my rough 4th gear downshifts or my harsh neutral-stop engagement problem.


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