# Catalytic Convertor Glowing Red Hot



## Hablewitz21 (Jul 1, 2020)

Hello everyone! First time poster and new to the website.

I have a 2014 Cruze 1.4L RS LTZ with approx 92,xxx miles. My issue started a little over a month ago and the car has been in and out of 2 different service shops (including my dealer) since. 

One time driving I smelled something odd, so I decided to step out of the car. Upon doing so, I didn’t find anything out of place and the car was running well; However, just to be sure, i popped the hood and noticed a part (cat convertor) glowing red, almost as if it were a tomato. I took the car in and the cat was replaced, along with a few plugs and valves. I got the car back and it was running fine, but i just wanted to make sure it wasn’t doing the same thing, and when i popped the hood, sure enough it was still glowing red. I proceeded to take it back to the same place and the guy said he couldnt find anything wrong.

Something still seemed eerie about the whole situation to me, so I took my car to the dealer. The dealer ran the diagnostic tests and everything came back as if nothing was wrong. I took the car back to the dealer yesterday to get a second opinion and the technician was equally baffled and said it might just “need to be broken in.”

Does anyone have any advice what to do because I’m not sure what to do. I don’t feel entirely comfortable driving my car when my gut is telling me something is wrong.

The thing I found most odd, was that NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EVER CAME ON. I am not extremely into cars, however i know a few things here and there, and love learning about cars. From other posts on the site, I would have at least thought my check engine light would have come on and a code would be shown, but apparently not in my case. 

Thanks for the input in advance! 
-SH


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Hablewitz21 said:


> Hello everyone! First time poster and new to the website.
> 
> I have a 2014 Cruze 1.4L RS LTZ with approx 92,xxx miles. My issue started a little over a month ago and the car has been in and out of 2 different service shops (including my dealer) since.
> 
> ...


Welcome Aboard!

I would hazard a guess that raw fuel is getting to the converter. Another possibility is that the motor is running rich or for some reason the fuel is not being completely burned. That would entail a bad coil or plug(s). I would pull the coil pack and look at the plugs. If you have a cheap endoscope, look at the pistons. If they are clean or wet, it is most likely from un-burned fuel.

Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

*Set gap with the black portion of this tool.*










To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE *IRIDIUM* CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

*Measure the gap with feeler gauges.*










*Throw this away.*












Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

*-BKR8EIX-2668* (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
*-BKR7E-4644* (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read _Hesitation Gone!_ for more info on the plugs.






A good replacement coil is the MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Hablewitz21 (Jul 1, 2020)

Hello! Thanks for the input.

This was one of the things i was considering. However, wouldn’t I see a loss of power and decrease in fuel economy due to a misfire? The car has (somehow) been running typical; no loss of power, good gas milage, etc. This is where I’m stumped.


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## Shroomie (Jan 16, 2017)

Hablewitz21 said:


> Hello everyone! First time poster and new to the website.
> 
> I have a 2014 Cruze 1.4L RS LTZ with approx 92,xxx miles. My issue started a little over a month ago and the car has been in and out of 2 different service shops (including my dealer) since.
> 
> ...


Mmm.. you had the plugs, cat, and valves replaced? Exhaust valves? They tore the engine down?


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## Hablewitz21 (Jul 1, 2020)

Update: I took it to the dealer two additional times.

The first time they opened a case with GM. Couldn’t find anything wrong. The cat temp was within the acceptable range of 910-930 F°

Once I got the car back, my check engine light finally came on with a P0420 code (which i knew would happen). I again took it to the dealer and they were able to locate the issue and replaced the PCV valve (an air leak was present). Picked it up today and drove off. Not 10 minutes later, the check engine light came back on. I proceeded to buy my own scanner and sure enough it again was the P0420 code. 

The dealer suggests i replace the (new) catalytic converter. Its covered under warrenty so im not worried about the cost. However, when I was driving home, i was looking at the live data on my scanner and the cat was reaching temperatures of 1400-1500 °F

I’m worried that the convertor isnt the issue and there is an underlying issue that is causing the cat to get to these temperatures. Not sure what to do or where to go. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-SH


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Have dealer drive it around in open loop mode and see if issue replicates. They can do that with their scan tool.

If it does replicate, O2 sensor. If not, injectors possibly, MAF, and of course oil possibly getting into the exhaust stream should be looked into.

But not sparkplugs if there is no rough driving issue.


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## Hablewitz21 (Jul 1, 2020)

Snipesy said:


> Have dealer drive it around in open loop mode and see if issue replicates. They can do that with their scan tool.
> 
> If it does replicate, O2 sensor. If not, injectors possibly, MAF, and of course oil possibly getting into the exhaust stream should be looked into.
> 
> But not sparkplugs if there is no rough driving issue.


Ah, I forgot to mention I just replaced the upstream o2 sensor two days ago. There is no rough driving issue so i figured no misfire and its not the plugs as well. 

I think i’m still going to get the cat replaced since it’s free; I will follow up by taking it to the dealer and trying that out. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks!


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## globuslive (Jul 17, 2021)

Hablewitz21 said:


> Ah, I forgot to mention I just replaced the upstream o2 sensor two days ago. There is no rough driving issue so i figured no misfire and its not the plugs as well.
> 
> I think i’m still going to get the cat replaced since it’s free; I will follow up by taking it to the dealer and trying that out. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks!


Hi Hablewitz21. Have you managed the issue? What was the solution in your case, please? Im struggling with the same issue. I have replaced o2 so far. Engine runs smooth.


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## Lazer (Feb 14, 2016)

Your problem may be further down the pipe, a plugged resonator, or a muffler.


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## globuslive (Jul 17, 2021)

Lazer said:


> Your problem may be further down the pipe, a plugged resonator, or a muffler.


What I found so far, PCV valve nor MAF sensor do not cause it. I plugged advanced scan tool which can do some interesting tests, and I triggered Injector Balancing Mode, and while it was doing said balance, Cat went black in no time on running engine. Seems like very uncommon issue, but its just my luck i guess. No codes


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## SJ Jordan (Nov 15, 2021)

Hablewitz21 said:


> Hello everyone! First time poster and new to the website.
> 
> I have a 2014 Cruze 1.4L RS LTZ with approx 92,xxx miles. My issue started a little over a month ago and the car has been in and out of 2 different service shops (including my dealer) since.
> 
> ...


SH - I am still experiencing the same issue with my 2012 Chevy Cruze LT (1.4 litter turbo). I have had the cat replaced, however the issue still remains! What else did the dealer do?


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

He hasn't been seen since August 2020

His only posts is this thread.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

SJ Jordan said:


> SH - I am still experiencing the same issue with my 2012 Chevy Cruze LT (1.4 litter turbo). I have had the cat replaced, however the issue still remains! What else did the dealer do?


Welcome Aboard!

Start your own thread here.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## jeff j29 (4 mo ago)

Mine did the same thing. cat was glowing bright red. mechanic changed valve cover gasket which also has o rings for spark plug holes. was told when they go bad that oil can make it's way into cat and cause it to burn a lot hotter. after gasket was changed I haven't had the issue. still have 0420 code, but glowing red seems to be fixed. I'm thinking at this point that the converter got ruined by this happening.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

jeff j29 said:


> Mine did the same thing. cat was glowing bright red. mechanic changed valve cover gasket which also has o rings for spark plug holes. was told when they go bad that oil can make it's way into cat and cause it to burn a lot hotter. after gasket was changed I haven't had the issue. still have 0420 code, but glowing red seems to be fixed. I'm thinking at this point that the converter got ruined by this happening.


Welcome Aboard!

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

As I suggested above, Start your own thread here. as you will likely get more help.


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## chilehed (Sep 3, 2020)

Hablewitz21 said:


> However, when I was driving home, i was looking at the live data on my scanner and the cat was reaching temperatures of 1400-1500 °F





SJ Jordan said:


> SH - I am still experiencing the same issue with my 2012 Chevy Cruze LT (1.4 litter turbo). I have had the cat replaced, however the issue still remains! What else did the dealer do?


1500F is a perfectly normal operating temperature for a catalytic converter. The limit is 950C, which is a touch over 1740F.


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