# Sticky  Cruze Manual Transmission (M32) Issues



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I wanted to create a thread that described the known issues with this transmission and their resolution. This contains the collective knowledge and experience of the CruzeTalk forum for the past couple of years, knowledge acquired from our brothers and sisters over on the Sonic Owners' Forum, and knowledge taken from overseas where the M32 is used in many Vauxhall and Holden vehicles. 

*Notchy Shifting*
This will develop as early as 5k miles and will worsen as it goes by. If you are reading this thinking to yourself "but my transmission is fine," then you don't know what this transmission should feel like. I thought mine was fine until the problem was explained to me. If you have to force your shifter into gear as you accelerate with even a moderate amount of power, you have a problem. I'm talking up-shifting, not down-shifting. I can shift my Cruze up with a pinky. The cause of this is degraded transmission fluid. 

*1-2 Shift Grind*
This is the result of the design of the synchros, a high 1-2 gear ratio change, and the stupid thin OE fluid shearing down too easily. The gear is fine, and the issue is mostly harmless, but it is rather annoying. Since it is synchro related, you will notice it more on the Cruze Eco than on other models, as the Eco has a higher 1-2 shift ratio change. There is no known mechanical fix. However, keep reading. 

*Heat*
We have learned from our cousins with Holdens and Vauxhalls overseas that this transmission reaches dangerous operating temperatures with only 20 minutes of in-town driving. It is a very compact transmission and the heat has nowhere to go. A high engine operating temperature contributes to this problem. 

*5-6 Shaft Lubrication*
Filled to the GM recommended level, the transmission starves the 5-6 gear shaft of proper lubrication. This was discovered on the Vauxhall forums when they were losing shaft bearings left and right. The solution was to overfill the transmission by half a quart, for a total of 2.5 quarts. 
*
Fluid, the solution...sort of. *
From the factory, the transmission uses a rather thin fluid, chosen for fuel economy purposes. However, it does not lubricate well (see 1-2 shift grind & notchy shifting), and it does not hold well up to heat. The solution to the notchy shifting is new fluid. Our members have used Royal Purple and Redline's offerings, and none of them perform as well as Amsoil Synchromesh. In fact, Royal Purple was the worst fluid we have tried, and the fluid ended up coming out dark and burnt. 

This will sound like a sales pitch, but know that this has been tried, tested, and verified by the Gearheads on CruzeTalk. Amsoil Synchromesh completely eliminates the notchy shifting. It has a very high quality formulation of fully synthetic base stocks, and a very good friction modified package that greatly improves the function of our synchros. While it may not completely eliminate the 1-2 shift grind, it does help, *A LOT*. The 75W-90 GL-4 fluid has been reported to completely cure the 1-2 shift grind for many people. On my Cruze ECO, I have not yet been able to make it grind. Those who can note that even under hard driving, it happens rather rarely, in the range of 2 times a month as opposed to several times a week. Filling to 2.5 quarts total also helps with the heat issue, and provides better lubrication of the 5-6 gear shaft. *EDIT: GM has officially updated the transmission fill specification to 2.32 quarts as of at least 05/2016!*

Here is the fluid recommended as an OE replacement: AMSOIL Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid 5W-30

For tuned vehicles and vehicles driven more spiritedly, I recommend the 75W-90 transmission fluid and transaxle gear lube: AMSOIL Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90



Disclaimer: These products aren't officially recommended by AMSOIL's technical team due to variations in specification (and the constantly changing OE specification). Use at your own discretion, as I cannot be held liable for any side effects or problems. This product is offered as an option based on the success others have had with it.

More information on Gen1 Cruze Clutch and Shifting upgrades: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-gen1-powertrain/236181-gen1-cruze-clutch-shifting-upgrades.html


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## zerogravity (Jul 21, 2013)

Order placed. 
Going with 3 quarts for a 2 1/2 qt fill. I only have 2500 miles on it. And want the good stuff in it to help prevent issues down the road. Did an oil change today to get the break in oil and shavings out. Went with Pennzoil Platinum (on sale at local Advanced auto for 24 bucks with filter). I plan on changing it out in another 2500 miles to ensure all the break in oil and shavings are out. From there I will either go with Pennzoil Ultra or Amsoil.
Do i need to change this oil out in ONLY 2500 miles? Who cares.... its my money and my engine. Going on a road trip to VA soon, with 9 hours each way, all highway miles with light city driving while Im there. Shoild be good enough to flush out the engine before I drop money on a more expensive oil.


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

After that first change, you should be good. 7500 miles or 10% on the DIC

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## zerogravity (Jul 21, 2013)

newsguy99 said:


> After that first change, you should be good. 7500 miles or 10% on the DIC
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Yeah I know I could go more, but I want Pennzoil Ultra or Amsoil in there. The only Penn Ultra they had at3the time was euro 10w 40. "Back in the day" I was a diehard Mobile 1 fan...... times change, as well as the formula. When I had my 99 Trans AM I would change the synthetic oil no less than every 3000 to 3500k miles. She was ran a little hard. But fun to drive.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

How does the current Mobile 1 do? My dealership also has Mobile 1 oil they will use instead of the AC Delco oil.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

obermd said:


> How does the current Mobile 1 do? My dealership also has Mobile 1 oil they will use instead of the AC Delco oil.


Not very good. It's not a true synthetic anymore. Just a group 3 hydrocracked oil. Amsoil and Pennzoil are one of the only ones left that make a true PAO/Ester synthetic oil. I have a thread in the 1.4T section on it. 

Sent from mobile.


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

Too bad I no longer own a Cruze. I would be buying this even though I did not have the MT.

Andrei... How effective is it for the automatic ? Maybe it's a stupid question...


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

iKermit said:


> Too bad I no longer own a Cruze. I would be buying this even though I did not have the MT.
> 
> Andrei... How effective is it for the automatic ? Maybe it's a stupid question...


This fluid isn't effective in an automatic, but Amsoil's auto transmission fluid is GREAT.

Sent from mobile.


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## Gunrunr (May 9, 2011)

I'm glad I came across this post. My manual 6 speed in my ECO started grinding 3rd gear at about 60k miles. It usually only did it under acceleration. I now have 84K miles on it and have finally taken it in. The next day the dealer called me and told me that they were ordering a new transmission for it. Thankfully its covered under their 100k mile drive-train warranty. I'm thinking of putting 5k miles on the new tranny to work out all the break in trash then switch over to Amsoil. Has anyone had to get a new transmission because of grinding gear issues?


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

I would do it almost immediately - 500 to 1K miles max.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gunrunr said:


> I'm glad I came across this post. My manual 6 speed in my ECO started grinding 3rd gear at about 60k miles. It usually only did it under acceleration. I now have 84K miles on it and have finally taken it in. The next day the dealer called me and told me that they were ordering a new transmission for it. Thankfully its covered under their 100k mile drive-train warranty. I'm thinking of putting 5k miles on the new tranny to work out all the break in trash then switch over to Amsoil. Has anyone had to get a new transmission because of grinding gear issues?


Service interval for that transmission was update for the 2014 owner's manual to 45k miles per fluid change. You exceeded that by almost double. The notchy shifting should have given it away. Now you know just how poorly GM chose their fluids for this transmission. 

500 miles tops before you get a better fluid in there.

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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

We have a few reports of manual transmissions being replaced due to gear issues.


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## Gunrunr (May 9, 2011)

OK then. Thanks for the input. I'll be sure to change it out at 500 miles then. That comes out to only a week of driving to work


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gunrunr said:


> OK then. Thanks for the input. I'll be sure to change it out at 500 miles then. That comes out to only a week of driving to work


Better order it soon then. Shoot me a PM and I'll get you a quote.

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## Gunrunr (May 9, 2011)

OK, an update on my tranny issue. The dealership just installed a new transmission in my Cruze and the reason for the replacement was......

removed trans open side cover and found third gear syncro and blocker ring coming apart found parts are not available not service ordered new trans installed.

This is how my paperwork read. Cars runs great now. Next step is to get my AMSOIL in.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Gunrunr said:


> OK, an update on my tranny issue. The dealership just installed a new transmission in my Cruze and the reason for the replacement was......
> 
> removed trans open side cover and found third gear syncro and blocker ring coming apart found parts are not available not service ordered new trans installed.
> 
> This is how my paperwork read. Cars runs great now. Next step is to get my AMSOIL in.


Hello Gunrunr,

Thank you for the update! I'm happy to hear that the car is running well for you, and you are back to enjoying your Cruze. If there is anymore assistance needed or if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out to us.

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## sjager (Apr 24, 2014)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Service interval for that transmission was update for the 2014 owner's manual to 45k miles per fluid change. You exceeded that by almost double. The notchy shifting should have given it away. Now you know just how poorly GM chose their fluids for this transmission.
> 
> 500 miles tops before you get a better fluid in there.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


I've just purchased a used 2011 Chevy Cruze Eco and have noticed the notchy shifting only after I've done my research on these boards. The mileage is at 45000km (roughly 28k miles.) It's definitely rather annoying.

Will using the AMSOIL Transmission Fluid get rid of this notchy shifting or only prevent it from getting any worse than it is now? I'm going to do it either way - but I'm really hoping I can get the gearbox to be smooth again. This has really spoiled my used purchase over anything else (I love the car otherwise.)


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sjager said:


> I've just purchased a used 2011 Chevy Cruze Eco and have noticed the notchy shifting only after I've done my research on these boards. The mileage is at 45000km (roughly 28k miles.) It's definitely rather annoying.
> 
> Will using the AMSOIL Transmission Fluid get rid of this notchy shifting or only prevent it from getting any worse than it is now? I'm going to do it either way - but I'm really hoping I can get the gearbox to be smooth again. This has really spoiled my used purchase over anything else (I love the car otherwise.)


It will get rid of the notchy shifting. It is a function of the fluid you're using degrading over time.

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## sjager (Apr 24, 2014)

XtremeRevolution said:


> It will get rid of the notchy shifting. It is a function of the fluid you're using degrading over time.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


Thanks so much, I will get right on fixing this


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Extreme how do I go about getting a quote for some 6MT Tranny fluid? Just a pm or is there a thread I missed?

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## sx sonic (Nov 25, 2013)

Got a question for anyone with the 13+ M32 trans. Does your shifter have a lot of side to side slop when in gear?

If I'm in gear I can wiggle the shifter side to side like 1". 1st. 2nd, 5th, 6th have the most play and 3rd, 4th have just a little. I highly doubt this is normal but since the my trans was replaced with the updated version (with different style linkage) I'm not positive.

Here's a pic of the shifter linkage for the updated trans, the older style looks a good bit different. If yours looks like this please let me know how much play you have in the shifter while in gear.


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## jdubs23 (Sep 26, 2014)

I'm guessing that this may be the issue I've been having with my '12 cruze LT? It's started grinding moving from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear the past couple of weeks and it has been notchy since, well pretty much the day I got it? I just figured that was the way they made it to shift. my question is, with it grinding has something already gone wrong? Will replacing the fluid help at this point, or am i looking at running into the same thing Gunrunr did, and looking at having to drop a new tranny in it with the grinding gears issue?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jdubs23 said:


> I'm guessing that this may be the issue I've been having with my '12 cruze LT? It's started grinding moving from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear the past couple of weeks and it has been notchy since, well pretty much the day I got it? I just figured that was the way they made it to shift. my question is, with it grinding has something already gone wrong? Will replacing the fluid help at this point, or am i looking at running into the same thing Gunrunr did, and looking at having to drop a new tranny in it with the grinding gears issue?


The grinding is caused by the fluid not being thick enough to allow the synchros to engage properly, and the notchyness is caused by the same. The fluid will resolve the notchy problems and either greatly aleviate the grind or cure it altogether.


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## Hazlitt777 (Nov 2, 2013)

I put the Amsoil in my eco manual 15,000 miles ago, after having put 6000 on the car with the original fluid. It is a 2014. This oil made a huge difference. Runs like a top.


However, how many miles can I run it like this before replacing it? 100,000? 50,000? (I also overfilled it to 2.5 quarts.)

Finally, if you could provide any links to articles focused on this unique manual transmission, I would appreciate it.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Hazlitt777 said:


> I put the Amsoil in my eco manual 15,000 miles ago, after having put 6000 on the car with the original fluid. It is a 2014. This oil made a huge difference. Runs like a top.
> 
> 
> However, how many miles can I run it like this before replacing it? 100,000? 50,000? (I also overfilled it to 2.5 quarts.)
> ...


There aren't a whole lot of articles around. Most of it can be found by going to google.co.uk and searching for "m32 gearbox." 

Glad you swapped it in and noticed a difference. Pretty much everyone does. You should be good for 40-50k on this fluid before shifting starts becoming inconsistent.


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## Hazlitt777 (Nov 2, 2013)

So do you have any speculations as to how many miles a person can get out of this manual...and this 1.4 litre engine for that matter, before repairs will be needed...say if one changes the manual transmission fluid every 45,000 and the engine oil every 5000? 200,000?



XtremeRevolution said:


> There aren't a whole lot of articles around. Most of it can be found by going to google.co.uk and searching for "m32 gearbox."
> 
> Glad you swapped it in and noticed a difference. Pretty much everyone does. You should be good for 40-50k on this fluid before shifting starts becoming inconsistent.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

You will be looking at a clutch replacement long before you look at replacing this transmission. How long a clutch will last in this car is an unknown at this point, which can also vary wildly depending on driving habits.


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## propony (Oct 3, 2014)

Hello Im new to the forum and I have just bought a used 2014 1.4 eco. My question is and I havent been under the car yet so dont hate. Is the drain an fill plug easily accessiable from under the car. Or is there a link I can go to that show A how to. Thanks guys


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

Here is the How-To:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Hazlitt777 said:


> So do you have any speculations as to how many miles a person can get out of this manual...and this 1.4 litre engine for that matter, before repairs will be needed...say if one changes the manual transmission fluid every 45,000 and the engine oil every 5000? 200,000?


Under sane driving conditions, this transmission should easily exceed 500,000 miles. It will really depend on how you drive it. Good maintenance will go a long way.


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## propony (Oct 3, 2014)

Thank You!!!!!ccasion14:


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## Jofiree (Oct 17, 2014)

When the engine is cold, my MT have some difficulty to shift into 2nd gear, it's not grinding, but you feel that there is a little resistance. Do you think the amsoil would resolve the problem? Do you have a how to for changing the trans. oil?

Thank you!


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Jofiree said:


> When the engine is cold, my MT have some difficulty to shift into 2nd gear, it's not grinding, but you feel that there is a little resistance. Do you think the amsoil would resolve the problem? Do you have a how to for changing the trans. oil?
> 
> Thank you!


It certainly helps significantly but does not alleviate the first to second stiffness entirely. That's just a characteristic of this transmission. However, once warmed up a little, the fluid makes all gear changes extremely smooth. 

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html


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## nebojsa (Jan 3, 2011)

On the Amsoil website which AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid .Which GM number belongs to the chevy cruze eco


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## nebojsa (Jan 3, 2011)

Strange that the 2013 cruze owners manual shows automatic transmission change interval but nothing for the manual.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

nebojsa said:


> Strange that the 2013 cruze owners manual shows automatic transmission change interval but nothing for the manual.


Manual is "life of the vehicle" but the fluid quality and under filled amount in the trans dictates otherwise. 8-10k is enough to burn it up and cause random issues like grinds regardless how you shift and close to freezing up in cold weather.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Merc6 said:


> Manual is "life of the vehicle" but the fluid quality and under filled amount in the trans dictates otherwise. 8-10k is enough to burn it up and cause random issues like grinds regardless how you shift and close to freezing up in cold weather.


Lifetime fluid is BS, manual or automatic. I think the 14 and 15 owners manuals do specify a change period for the MT fluid.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

nebojsa said:


> On the Amsoil website which AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid .Which GM number belongs to the chevy cruze eco


AMSOIL doesn't provide a "matching" fluid for the ECO MT. I'm running AMSOIL syncrhomesh. They have a second fluid that works for colder climates as well.



nebojsa said:


> Strange that the 2013 cruze owners manual shows automatic transmission change interval but nothing for the manual.


Download the 2014 Owners Manual and use the Severe service schedule with two modifications. Clutch/Brake fluid every 30,000 miles and Syncrhomesh every 45K miles. The OE synchromesh is really only good for 15K miles and even then it's a little too thin for the 1->2 shift under load.


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## Jofiree (Oct 17, 2014)

obermd said:


> AMSOIL doesn't provide a "matching" fluid for the ECO MT. I'm running AMSOIL syncrhomesh. They have a second fluid that works for colder climates as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Download the 2014 Owners Manual and use the Severe service schedule with two modifications. Clutch/Brake fluid every 30,000 miles and Syncrhomesh every 45K miles. The OE synchromesh is really only good for 15K miles and even then it's a little too thin for the 1->2 shift under load.


Is there a way to complain at my GM dealer to do the switch with the warranty? I mean it is not normal that the OEM trans oil last only 15k!


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Jofiree said:


> Is there a way to complain at my GM dealer to do the switch with the warranty? I mean it is not normal that the OEM trans oil last only 15k!


Short answer, no.

Although we, as passionate lovers of machines, disagree with the manufacturer regarding lubricant quality and change intervals, the manufacturer has determined that the lubricant used is satisfactory for the life of the vehicle.

The dealer is not in a position to override the manufacturer and make warranty claims.
The transmission is covered under the 5yr 100mile powertrain program and the manufacturer has determined that the lubricant will remain satisfactory for at least that long.

Forum posters have found, by substituting different products, and altering the maintenence schedule, that the overall vehicle performance in day to day operation, can be enhanced and make a pleasant vehicle more pleasant to operate.
The possibility of enhancing the lifespan of components presents itself as well.

So, it all boils down to the desire to enhance overall operation and, from a cost standpoint, it's on our dime.

Same would apply to motor oil......the majority would not recommend operating your vehicle on the recommended oil for the suggested change mileage.....the manufacturer disagrees.
The dealer, being full of mechanics, likely agrees with our thoughts as well but is not in a position to provide free oil changes just because we don't agree with the manufacturer.


Rob


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

nebojsa said:


> On the Amsoil website which AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid .Which GM number belongs to the chevy cruze eco





nebojsa said:


> Strange that the 2013 cruze owners manual shows automatic transmission change interval but nothing for the manual.


AMSOIL hasn't released a fluid recommendation for the Cruze manual transmission because GM keeps changing the part numbers. They've changed it twice for a total of three part numbers, and three different formulations. Synchromesh is a higher viscosity so it would not be a direct match. 

That being said, our members have noticed that it shifts much smoother and lasts a lot longer. Combine this with the fact that the GM fluid is over $30 *per quart*, and that the transmission is underfilled from the factory for an insignificant fuel economy gain, the choice for many becomes very clear.


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## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

Okay, so questions, I drive with spirit more often than not, so I'd use the 75w90 setup, yes, but I think I've read something that saidthe 75 is not going to improve shifts quite as much. Is this true?

Second, I went and bought some Lucas 75-90 and it has limited slip additives, that's a no no, correct? 

Just asking beforeI did the switch. .


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

170-3tree said:


> Okay, so questions, I drive with spirit more often than not, so I'd use the 75w90 setup, yes, but I think I've read something that saidthe 75 is not going to improve shifts quite as much. Is this true?
> 
> Second, I went and bought some Lucas 75-90 and it has limited slip additives, that's a no no, correct?
> 
> Just asking beforeI did the switch. .


It dramatically improved shifts for me. 

It's *not* as good in the first 1/4 mile in the morning when cold. Then it's absolutely fantastic the rest of the time.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

170-3tree said:


> Okay, so questions, I drive with spirit more often than not, so I'd use the 75w90 setup, yes, but I think I've read something that saidthe 75 is not going to improve shifts quite as much. Is this true?
> 
> Second, I went and bought some Lucas 75-90 and it has limited slip additives, that's a no no, correct?
> 
> Just asking beforeI did the switch. .


Not all 75w-90 gear lubes are made equal. The recommendation here is for the AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4 transmission fluid, not just any 75W-90. Sounds like you may have picked up a differential gear lube. What is the GL rating anyway? 

The AMSOIL 75W-90 MTF is on the thin end of the 90 weight scale and is suitable for applications requiring an 85 weight oil like this transmission. It is specifically designed as a manual transmission and transaxle gear lube. 

The AMSOIL 75W-90 will improve shifts just as much as the Synchromesh fluid. I noticed very, very little difference switching between them as I've tried both, but jblackburn had his 1-2 shift grind cured moving up to the 75W-90. Again, specifically the AMSOIL 75W-90. The biggest difference with the 75W-90 as noted is that the cold weather shifting will be a bit stiff for the first few shifts till the fluid warms up a bit. Unless that Lucas oil is a true synthetic, I would actually strongly recommend against it as this transmission seems to be pretty hard on oil from the oil analysis results I've seen and it will shear down the Lucas fluid in short order.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> It dramatically improved shifts for me.
> 
> It's *not* as good in the first 1/4 mile in the morning when cold. Then it's absolutely fantastic the rest of the time.


This...

Not sure I trust it as I got Lucas to aerate on the hand crank display when cranking down on it by hand(not a scientific test, just what they give us to test with) Redline for some members didn't seem to last long and I kinda trusted that over Lucas as well.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Merc6 said:


> This...
> 
> Not sure I trust it as I got Lucas to aerate on the hand crank display when cranking down on it by hand(not a scientific test, just what they give us to test with) Redline for some members didn't seem to last long and I kinda trusted that over Lucas as well.


In the synthetic engine oil market, Lucas made an absolutely pathetic showing. That told me everything I need to know about how prepared they are for modern engines. Not at all. 

In the 5W-30 viscosity, 15% is the API maximum, 13% is the Dexos1 maximum, and Lucas "full synthetic" came in at 14.9 with a very low TBN, no Moly, and no Boron. I would seriously rather use GM's oil over that.


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## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

Haha glad I checked. I'm an auto tech, but not fluid proficient. I fix stuff and build for power and trust others for fluid recommendations. 

It is a gl4/5 deal, says full synthetic. Honestly, was getting some stuff for the Harley and some headlight bulbs for my car and as I walked past remembered this topic and decided to grab something. Brought it home and was looking at it and decided to check here before returning, friction modifier on the bottle was enough to make me weary.


As far as that display in the stores, that's of their additive, in engine oil it hides problems, and we'll but it also nearly doubles the thickness of the oil. I, personally, don't add anything to oil ever, I'll pull an engine and rebuild before that.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

170-3tree said:


> Haha glad I checked. I'm an auto tech, but not fluid proficient. I fix stuff and build for power and trust others for fluid recommendations.
> 
> It is a gl4/5 deal, says full synthetic. Honestly, was getting some stuff for the Harley and some headlight bulbs for my car and as I walked past remembered this topic and decided to grab something. Brought it home and was looking at it and decided to check here before returning, friction modifier on the bottle was enough to make me weary.
> 
> ...


Yeah by the time you add something to make your own special blend, you could have gotten a better oil to begin with. If you paid $700 with tax title tags out the door for something, then yeah. Your intent was to get by on short trips for the winter or as a parts fetcher until the engine build was complete and dropped back into your real car.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

170-3tree said:


> Haha glad I checked. I'm an auto tech, but not fluid proficient. I fix stuff and build for power and trust others for fluid recommendations.
> 
> It is a gl4/5 deal, says full synthetic. Honestly, was getting some stuff for the Harley and some headlight bulbs for my car and as I walked past remembered this topic and decided to grab something. Brought it home and was looking at it and decided to check here before returning, friction modifier on the bottle was enough to make me weary.
> 
> ...


GL-4 fluid to be safe. A GL-5 has 2x the extreme pressure additives. Problem is they wear down soft metals like brass in synchros where the transmission calls for a GL-4. I can give you the technical explanation of why it happens. Some of the newer EP additives don't have that problem. 

I never believed in a "mechanic in a can." I subscribe to the belief that a very good synthetic is the prescription for long engine life. The high film strength protects metal parts, and its resistance to oxidation prevents any kind of sludge or deposit. In other words, you never create the situations that would even benefit from such an additive. 

Very cool to met someone else who wants to do things the right way. There are many people out there who just want the quick fix. The "mechanic in a can."


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## just a cruzer (Nov 23, 2014)

so Im going to change out the stock crap an put in Amsoil 75w-90.. after that how often should i be changing the trans fluid?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

just a cruzer said:


> so Im going to change out the stock crap an put in Amsoil 75w-90.. after that how often should i be changing the trans fluid?


After that, follow the GM recommendation of 45k miles under severe service driving. You could probably double that if you do 100% light highway driving. 

The Synchromesh fluid is good for 45k miles but this being thicker should be fine for a tad longer than that.


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## TonyBallgame (Jan 28, 2015)

Can i take my cruze in and have the trans fluid changed to the amsoil? Not proficient or skilled enough to do this my self. My 2015 cruze is at 400 miles and i want this to be the first thing i take care of. Any recommendations would be helpful! Thanks


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

TonyBallgame said:


> Can i take my cruze in and have the trans fluid changed to the amsoil? Not proficient or skilled enough to do this my self. My 2015 cruze is at 400 miles and i want this to be the first thing i take care of. Any recommendations would be helpful! Thanks


It is not very likely a dealership will change your manual transmission fluid to Amsoil. There is a how to I have linked to, and it is very easy to follow.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html


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## UlyssesSG (Apr 5, 2011)

BowtieGuy said:


> Change your manual transmission fluid to Amsoil. There is a how to I have linked to, and it is very easy to follow.
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html


 Great resource, thanks.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

TonyBallgame said:


> Can i take my cruze in and have the trans fluid changed to the amsoil? Not proficient or skilled enough to do this my self. My 2015 cruze is at 400 miles and i want this to be the first thing i take care of. Any recommendations would be helpful! Thanks


Depends on the dealership. Mine did with no questions asked.


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## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

Just wanted to throw in my 20mi experience since I swapped to amsoil today then drove home from work with it. 

Shift feel? Still kinda "gear feeling" but much more positive. Drove light and heavy and couldn't get it to replicate the random half shifts I'd been getting where it seems to almost pop back out. 

Shifts in heavy driving didn't just glide in like I had hoped, but you can be authoritative without it grinding like before. 

Overall I'm happy. Maybe it will get smoother, but if it doesn't, its cool. I can feel a difference that feels like a healthier unit and frankly, mechanical feels in a car get my gears all Spinny anyways. 

Next mods will include short shifter, which I'm slightly intimidated by because of the lack of tutorial for the newer boxes, and a tune. 

Just thought I'd share my experience with everyone. 

Gerald


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

170-3tree said:


> Just wanted to throw in my 20mi experience since I swapped to amsoil today then drove home from work with it.
> 
> Shift feel? Still kinda "gear feeling" but much more positive. Drove light and heavy and couldn't get it to replicate the random half shifts I'd been getting where it seems to almost pop back out.
> 
> ...


The shifting improves after a day or two of driving. That's what a lot of people have reported when switching to this fluid.


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## Ranscapture (Jun 20, 2013)

obermd said:


> Depends on the dealership. Mine did with no questions asked.


please tell me you're in Los angeles and if not what can I do to make mine do this? I have nowhere to work on the car by myself. Thanks


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Ranscapture said:


> please tell me you're in Los angeles and if not what can I do to make mine do this? I have nowhere to work on the car by myself. Thanks


Denver. Ask your dealership - they may surprise you. The techs and advisers at mine were really happy I was switching to AMSOil.


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## SueO (Dec 24, 2015)

Hi, I read your post about the tranny fluid for Manual transmissions but what about the 2012 Cruze LS automatic transmissions? Do they have similar issues with substandard thin fluid? Because I have noticed my car is jumpy on acceleration and shifts a lot while under 30 miles mph. A jerky ride for sure.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

SueO said:


> Hi, I read your post about the tranny fluid for Manual transmissions but what about the 2012 Cruze LS automatic transmissions? Do they have similar issues with substandard thin fluid? Because I have noticed my car is jumpy on acceleration and shifts a lot while under 30 miles mph. A jerky ride for sure.


No, doesn't really apply......entirely different lubricant for a entirely different component.

Is this car new to you or is this concern a recent development?
The 6sp auto used in the Cruze is a fairly new design and many pick up on the very different shift timing and intensity when compared to automatics that were in use in older cars.

Rob


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

If anyone is still seeking opinions on this, I decided to take this advice in June of this year for my '14 1.4L LT Cruze with the getrag M32-MR5 6-speed manual (The non-eco manual). Here are my findings.


I first researched this issue because I was suffering from the 1-2 grind during quick changes and moderate-hard acceleration. I learned to drive manual on my previous car which was an '09 cobalt with a 5 speed manual getrag F23. I would grind a gear here or there when I was learning, mostly just because sometimes the synchros would take an extra second before sloting into gear but my foot was already in motion to release the clutch from muscle memory. I only ever ground that car a handful of times in the 6 years and 100K miles I owned it. But once I got the cruze, I noticed it grinding trying to get into second in certain circumstances even if the clutch was all the way in. After doubling the number of times I ground a gear within 4 months of having the cruze I was tired of that issue.


One of the things that astonished me was how watery the stock fluid was, the transmission drained itself completely in about 3 seconds. I replaced that with about 2.3 quarts of the amsoil synchromesh 5w-30. It was 2.5 quarts looking at the bottles but some got stuck in the pump handle I was using so a little didn't make it in. I am slightly upset my transmission does not appear to have the level plug. that would have made it a little easier to fill it to the proper level.


Even so, there has been a major difference in the feel of the transmission for the better. It doesn't grind anymore, its much less clunky during warm up and smooth as butter when its up to temp. Would definitely recommend doing this.


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## joshuastillman (Aug 20, 2015)

Hi I have a 2014 eco with the 6 speed manual and lately after driving for a while once I shift into 4th gear it's hard to pull it back out to go up or down is the fluid to blame in this situation or is this another issue


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## joshuastillman (Aug 20, 2015)

joshuastillman said:


> Hi I have a 2014 eco with the 6 speed manual and lately after driving for a while once I shift into 4th gear it's hard to pull it back out to go up or down is the fluid to blame in this situation or is this another issue


just an update took my cruze into the dealer and I guess they said they need to replace transmission and the shifter assembly,


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## Ranscapture (Jun 20, 2013)

the few of you is lucky to get replacement transmissions. I've been arguing with them since about 7k miles. now im at 82k.


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## cumminsdieselfreak (Jan 26, 2015)

Has anyone had their manual transmission leak fluid at the top of the transmission?


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## zen_ (Mar 15, 2015)

So what is the expected end game with an M32 that has developed a whine, and is out of warranty? Mine has gone from barely noticeable, to very noticeable in 2nd, 5th, and 6th gears. Swapped to the slightly heavier AMSOIL 75w90 from the synchromesh I had in for 20K, and it may be slightly less noisy, but certainly not a magic fix. I am not having any issues with shifting, grinding, or overall smoothness of the transmission yet, but it's getting harder to ignore the noise. 

I gathered GM simply replaced the transmissions under warranty as an issue that couldn't be serviced, but is that the fix in all cases, or do they just do that rather than repairing / rebuilding a transmission at a dealer service center? I think I'm about due up for a clutch anyway, and am basically wondering if there is any hope that my transmission can be repaired by a good mechanic rather than replaced at much greater cost.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

zen_ said:


> So what is the expected end game with an M32 that has developed a whine, and is out of warranty? Mine has gone from barely noticeable, to very noticeable in 2nd, 5th, and 6th gears. Swapped to the slightly heavier AMSOIL 75w90 from the synchromesh I had in for 20K, and it may be slightly less noisy, but certainly not a magic fix. I am not having any issues with shifting, grinding, or overall smoothness of the transmission yet, but it's getting harder to ignore the noise.
> 
> I gathered GM simply replaced the transmissions under warranty as an issue that couldn't be serviced, but is that the fix in all cases, or do they just do that rather than repairing / rebuilding a transmission at a dealer service center? I think I'm about due up for a clutch anyway, and am basically wondering if there is any hope that my transmission can be repaired by a good mechanic rather than replaced at much greater cost.


Take it apart and put in new bearings, or just pick up a used, lower-mile transmission from a junkyard. But, since there are so few manual Cruzens out there, that might be easier said than done.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

So far, replacement of the assembly is the only path.

There are no repair parts for the unit in the GM system........the aftermarket may be getting something together, but I don't have a lot of hope.
Expressed as a percentage of the build, there just aren't enough out there to go through the effort of cataloging part #s, pricing the parts, updating the computer parts system to reflect those parts and prices and finally, having inventory at each parts warehouse.

Rob


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## zen_ (Mar 15, 2015)

That's a bummer that the bearing(s) can't be replaced if it's just that, like the Vauxhall M32 article shows. 

Considering that people have complained about this issue developing at very low miles, I wouldn't even know how to guess on getting a good used unit...and the MF3 option for the Eco model seems to be harder to find. Then again, there's one on fleebay right now with 3K miles for $650.


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## lonewolf04 (May 6, 2016)

So new to the Cruze forum and owner of all of 2 days now. Bought the amsoil synchro 5w-30 and gonna change it. But before i do I wanted to know if this should solve the 3-2 downshift wine or even just second gear wine after being acceling in 2nd and letting off? Just something I noticed after driving more. Trams has 51k on a '12 and sure it's never been changed. That or I can take it in under power train and see what the dealer says. Don't wanna waste $40 in fluid if it's going to need something else.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

lonewolf04 said:


> So new to the Cruze forum and owner of all of 2 days now. Bought the amsoil synchro 5w-30 and gonna change it. But before info wanted to know if this should solve the 3-2 downshift wine or even just second gear wine after being acceling in 2nd and letting off? Just something I noticed after driving more. Trams has 51k on a '12 and sure it's never been changed. That or I can take it in under power train and see what the dealer says. Don't wanna waste $40 in fluid if it's going to need something else.


Slight 2nd gear whine is normal - they all do it. The fluid won't change it.


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## lonewolf04 (May 6, 2016)

jblackburn said:


> Slight 2nd gear whine is normal - they all do it. The fluid won't change it.


Thanks, good to know its normal. Just thought it was pretty loud. Still changing the fluid because it's used and no real service history.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I first went with synchromesh, then to 75W-90, then back to OE fluid when flywheel was replaced, then back to synchromesh now. 

Even the new OE fluid is too thin. It got too notch after a long drive. Synchromesh just feels... Perfect. 

If my trans had the 1-2 shift grind problem, I'd be running the 75W-90 again, but I find the synchromesh fluid to be just fine and a tad easier to shift when cold.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Years later, GM has officially updated the transmission capacity spec for both models with and without a level adjustment hole to 2.32 quarts!


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## Hazlitt777 (Nov 2, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Years later, GM has officially updated the transmission capacity spec for both models with and without a level adjustment hole to 2.32 quarts!


Putting 2.5 quarts in mine as I did, hasn't caused me any problems. Hopefully I didn't overfill it.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Hazlitt777 said:


> Putting 2.5 quarts in mine as I did, hasn't caused me any problems. Hopefully I didn't overfill it.


That's a small enough difference that it won't matter at all.


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## joshuastillman (Aug 20, 2015)

just perfect, my brand new trans with 10k on it has now developed the whine people are referring to does anyone know the cause of this issue I see people talking about replacing bearings but I know when they replaced the trans in January they said there was no way to rebuild it at this time only replace so off to the dealer it goes Monday


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## lonewolf04 (May 6, 2016)

No rebuild, its a replacement.


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## Vuarra (Apr 18, 2016)

Quick question for XtremeRevolution... I know I remember seeing Amsoil products at the retail level in the past. I'm not comfortable purchasing them from my local guy, nor mail order. What happened to make that change?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Vuarra said:


> Quick question for XtremeRevolution... I know I remember seeing Amsoil products at the retail level in the past. I'm not comfortable purchasing them from my local guy, nor mail order. What happened to make that change?


Actually I can answer this one. AMSOil at retail just means that the retailer has decided to become an AMSOil dealer and stock it along with their other products.


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

So, it's normal not to be able to shift to 2nd when the rpm's are like 4500-5k? I try and all it does is grind, not going into gear until the RPM's drop. I'm so use to the Vibe GT that shifts smoothly at 8000 and has 287k miles on it. lol :sad010:


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

PAChevyCruze said:


> So, it's normal not to be able to shift to 2nd when the rpm's are like 4500-5k? I try and all it does is grind, not going into gear until the RPM's drop. I'm so use to the Vibe GT that shifts smoothly at 8000 and has 287k miles on it. lol :sad010:


Dump the GM swill and put in the AMSOil Synchromesh. Solved the same problem for me.


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

obermd said:


> Dump the GM swill and put in the AMSOil Synchromesh. Solved the same problem for me.


Plan on it since I read this. Gonna try it in both my 6 speeds, though the Vibe shifts smooth.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

PAChevyCruze said:


> Plan on it since I read this. Gonna try it in both my 6 speeds, though the Vibe shifts smooth.


I believe the Vibe would use the 75w-90 GL-4 that's also listed in the original post in this thread, not the Synchromesh. Let me know if you'd like a quote on either or both. 

AMSOIL Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90


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## scha7530 (Apr 15, 2012)

I just had my transmission replaced at 61500 miles for the 2/5/6 gear whine. It was tough at first for the dealer to acknowledge that there was a noise at all. 

The transmission that was installed was a "remanufactured" transmission. The interesting thing about it is that the shift lever on the top of the trans is a completely different design than the original, and also that the complete sidecover is different. The one I got appears to be the "late" cover that I had seen on some european astra site. Apparently this one has bigger bearings. I suppose once the warranty is out next april, I will dump the SAE 70 GL-4 and go with some 75w-90. I did redline MT90 in my '04 Colorado and that shifts incredibly well now. Will probably go with that.


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## Camcruse (Oct 4, 2011)

scha7530 said:


> I just had my transmission replaced at 61500 miles for the 2/5/6 gear whine. It was tough at first for the dealer to acknowledge that there was a noise at all.
> 
> The transmission that was installed was a *"remanufactured" transmission.* The interesting thing about it is that the shift lever on the top of the trans is a completely different design than the original, and also that the complete sidecover is different. The one I got appears to be the "late" cover that I had seen on some european astra site. Apparently this one has bigger bearings. I suppose once the warranty is out next april, I will dump the SAE 70 GL-4 and go with some 75w-90. I did redline MT90 in my '04 Colorado and that shifts incredibly well now. Will probably go with that.


I believe the same with mine.


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## scha7530 (Apr 15, 2012)

The PN for the work order is 19332699 and says "remanufactured transaxle"

Also, here's photos showing the shifter lever and also the part of the end case that seems to ID that it's the latest style:


On this one, it's the boss with the very large ball pressed into it. I haven't seen this on an original trans for a '12.


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## RedEco (Jul 25, 2016)

Mine makes the 1-2 gear rattle only when its cold and only once then no more rattle. I bought Amsoil 75w90 hope that will help a little.


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## GregoryD (Aug 11, 2013)

I myself have been using the Amsoil manual transmission fluid 75W-90 for 2 years now, filled to 2.5q. I had an argument about 2 years ago with the service manager at my dealership in regards to this, lol. He tried to tell me it would blow up my transmission and void my warranty. If you like sporty driving then use the heavier weight lubricant. We all know manual drivers like sporty.


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## user1414 (Mar 3, 2017)

Some great info here. I'm in the market for a new 2016/2017 Cruze L manual, I'll assume it also runs the M32. If yes,have they made any changes to alleviate these issues in the 2nd generation Cruze?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

user1414 said:


> Some great info here. I'm in the market for a new 2016/2017 Cruze L manual, I'll assume it also runs the M32. If yes,have they made any changes to alleviate these issues in the 2nd generation Cruze?


There are no gear ratio changes, I believe it's still the same transmission. Same large 1-2 shift gap which exasperates the grind, only now there's more power going through the transmission than before which will make heat issues more prevalent.


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

XtremeRevolution said:


> There are no gear ratio changes, I believe it's still the same transmission. Same large 1-2 shift gap which exasperates the grind, only now there's more power going through the transmission than before which will make heat issues more prevalent.


These are the gear ratios for the all the Cruze models with a 1.4 engine.

*MR5 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS* for Non-ECO first gen
 *Transmission model**MANUAL 6-SPEED**RPO Code*MR5*GEAR RATIOS*  First4.27 Second2.35 Third1.48 Fourth1.07 Fifth.88 Sixth.74 Reverse3.82*TORQUE CONVERTER* *LUBRICANT CAPACITY (pints/litre)*  Fluid Capacity4/1.8928*MAX GVW(lbs/kg)*5027/2280.2472

*MF3 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION* for the ECO first gen
 *Transmission model**MANUAL 6-SPEED (FWD)**RPO Code*MF3*GEAR RATIOS*  First4.27 Second2.16 Third1.30 Fourth.96 Fifth.74 Sixth.61 Reverse3.82*TORQUE CONVERTER* *Maximum Engine Torque (lb-ft/N-m)*148/199.8*LUBRICANT CAPACITY (pints/litre)*  Fluid Capacity4/1.8928*MAX GVW(lbs/kg)*5027/2280.2472

*MF3 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION* for second gen
 *Transmission model**MANUAL 6-SPEED (FWD)**RPO Code*MF3*GEAR RATIOS*  First4.27 Second2.16 Third1.30 Fourth.96 Fifth.74 Sixth.61 Reverse3.82*TORQUE CONVERTER* *Maximum Engine Torque (lb-ft/N-m)*148/199.8*LUBRICANT CAPACITY (pints/litre)*  Fluid Capacity4/1.8928*MAX GVW(lbs/kg)*5027/2280.2472


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Eric, awesome info. GM's media site has the M32 ratios for the Gen2 listed wrong (they have them as LT gearing from the old car). It would probably make it more drivable, but less highway MPG.

I copied your info here; if you'd like, feel free to start a new thread in the Gen 2 section w/ all transmission ratios if you have that available (autos too):

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-gen1-powertrain/335-cruze-transmission-axle-ratios.html


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

jblackburn said:


> Eric, awesome info. GM's media site has the M32 ratios for the Gen2 listed wrong (they have them as LT gearing from the old car). It would probably make it more drivable, but less highway MPG.
> 
> I copied your info here; if you'd like, feel free to start a new thread in the Gen 2 section w/ all transmission ratios if you have that available (autos too):
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-gen1-powertrain/335-cruze-transmission-axle-ratios.html


Will do.


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

jblackburn said:


> Eric, awesome info. GM's media site has the M32 ratios for the Gen2 listed wrong (they have them as LT gearing from the old car). It would probably make it more drivable, but less highway MPG.
> 
> I copied your info here; if you'd like, feel free to start a new thread in the Gen 2 section w/ all transmission ratios if you have that available (autos too):
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-gen1-powertrain/335-cruze-transmission-axle-ratios.html


http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/377-...8-2nd-gen-cruze-transmission-axle-ratios.html


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

GM dealers are filing them with 2.5L of fluid. That spec is only initial fill. I had several dealership techs check that for me. 

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

XtremeRevolution said:


> GM dealers are filing them with 2.5L of fluid. That spec is only initial fill. I had several dealership techs check that for me.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


I can tell you right now that not every GM dealer is doing that.


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

I'm not saying that they shouldn't be filling with 2.5 or should be, just that not every dealer is.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Check the spec in the service manual. I've seen photos of that screen and I doubt dealers get a different service manual. 

I only stress this because we've had so many issues on this transmission being under-filled and years of experience in Europe has everyone recommending and repair manuals specifying 2.5 liters, and I think it's very important that people realize that. 

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Check the spec in the service manual. I've seen photos of that screen and I doubt dealers get a different service manual.
> 
> I only stress this because we've had so many issues on this transmission being under-filled and years of experience in Europe has everyone recommending and repair manuals specifying 2.5 liters, and I think it's very important that people realize that.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


You act like I didn't spend years on the leading edge of development for the M32; sorry it wasn't in a Cruze.

I'm talking about initial fill. They don't come with 2.5 from the factory, and dealership prep guys don't pull them off the truck and put another half quart in.


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## EricSmit (Dec 21, 2016)

And here is the screen, straight out of global for a 2015 Cruze.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Initial fill is not equivalent to capacity. I've stated my reasons. 

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


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## user1414 (Mar 3, 2017)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Check the spec in the service manual. I've seen photos of that screen and I doubt dealers get a different service manual.
> 
> I only stress this because we've had so many issues on this transmission being under-filled and years of experience in Europe has everyone recommending and repair manuals specifying 2.5 liters, and I think it's very important that people realize that.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


Are you referring to the 1st gen or 2nd gen? I would hope that GM is filling these correctly with 2.5 quarts at the factory. Looking at the owners manuals of both 2016 and 2017's there are now warning lights and chimes on the display for the manual transmission for the 2017 which I could not find in the 2016 owners manual...

MANUAL TRANSMISSION —RELEASE CLUTCH PEDALThis message displays and a chime sounds if the manual transmission clutch pedal is partially applied foran extended period of time while the vehicle is being driven. Driving with the clutch pedal applied can reducethe life of the clutch. Fully release the clutch pedal after each gearchange.

REDUCED PERFORMANCE —REDUCE CLUTCH USE This message displays and engine torque is momentarily limited if excessive manual transmission clutch slip is detected while the clutch pedal is fully released.Reduce clutch slip during acceleration from a stop and during gear changes to allow the clutch to cool. This should prevent further slips with the clutch pedal fully released. If this message displays repeatedly, see your dealer.

TRANSMISSION HOT —SLOW DOWN This message displays and a chime sounds if the manual transmission fluid is hot and if the vehicle speed is high. Driving with the manual transmission fluid temperature high can cause damage to the vehicle.Drive at a slower speed to cool the manual transmission fluid. This message clears when the vehicle has slowed sufficiently or if the manual transmission fluid has cooled sufficiently


This above is all on page 149 of the 2017 owners manual. Also they are calling for replacement intervals now every 45,000 miles (72,000km) and the part number spec'd (19259104 US 19259105 in Canada)comes up as a straight 70w GL-4 gear oil which is considerably thinner than the Amsoil the forum is using, leading me to believe there must be some sort of changes to the internals and/or bearings. Now where to confirm this, seems only logical they would do 
something and increase the reliability especially with the 2nd gen getting a slight bump in power/torque. The tall unsporty ratios don't bother me, not looking to race, reliability is top priority as I keep my cars for around 8-9 years or so and it has to hold up for at least that long..Sorry for the long post


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## tagger (May 6, 2013)

I'm just going to leave this here for those that are interested...

M32 Gearbox Bearing Fix


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## testerguy (Aug 21, 2017)

You Guys think it would be possible to get GM to change the transmission/bearing on the warranty? I currently have 1750 000km on the eco and its way past the 100k warranty but is there any recourse? Any lawsuit on the way? My cruze is whining a bit these days.


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## testerguy (Aug 21, 2017)

Do you guys think I could get a warranty fix for the transmission?I have a 2012 Eco cruze 175 000km. I have been told by GM dealer that the transmission bearing is leaking or going out. After reading here I feel like this is an oversight from Gm... Do you think it is possible to get it fixed under warranty or comped in any way? (warranty ends at 100 000km here)

Thanks for your input


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## Nescafe (Mar 16, 2015)

Hope one of you M32 manual transmission gurus can offer some insight to my odd situation. I spent about 3 hours at the dealership and ended up driving away confused and skeptical. Service advisor said my 2012 cruze required special transmission fluid, 11 quarts which they did not have on hand to do a flush. He offered a regular drain and fill of 4 quarts which I declined. They also "discovered" that my battery is kaput, and I declined for them to replace it... Now literally 8 hours later my battery starts to show signs of dying, engine cranks hard, windshield wipers and hazards come on, as it struggles to start, but the battery shows 14.4v. 

I've researched my ass off, and last time I drained the oem fluid for Amsoil synchromesh my I ended up getting a warranty replacement transmission less than 5,000 miles later because it would pop out of 3rd gear, and after that I ended up getting another warranty transmission at a different Chevy dealer not so long after that... 

So right now I'm going to replace my battery and negative cable, and forget about breaking the seal on my transmission. Any suggestions?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Nescafe said:


> Hope one of you M32 manual transmission gurus can offer some insight to my odd situation. I spent about 3 hours at the dealership and ended up driving away confused and skeptical. Service advisor said my 2012 cruze required special transmission fluid, 11 quarts which they did not have on hand to do a flush. He offered a regular drain and fill of 4 quarts which I declined. They also "discovered" that my battery is kaput, and I declined for them to replace it... Now literally 8 hours later my battery starts to show signs of dying, engine cranks hard, windshield wipers and hazards come on, as it struggles to start, but the battery shows 14.4v.
> 
> I've researched my ass off, and last time I drained the oem fluid for Amsoil synchromesh my I ended up getting a warranty replacement transmission less than 5,000 miles later because it would pop out of 3rd gear, and after that I ended up getting another warranty transmission at a different Chevy dealer not so long after that...
> 
> So right now I'm going to replace my battery and negative cable, and forget about breaking the seal on my transmission. Any suggestions?


It takes 2.5 qts of normal MT fluid. It's obvious that service advisor or whomever you spoke with has no idea what they are talking about. How many miles on the current replacement trans? 

Battery voltage needs to be checked with the engine off; you are seeing charging voltage. Better yet, have it load tested by an auto parts store.


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## Nescafe (Mar 16, 2015)

Transmission has close to 20,000 miles, so I'm not due for it according to the service interval, and I attempted to get some fresh fluid in there as preventative maintenance.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Nescafe said:


> Transmission has close to 20,000 miles, so I'm not due for it according to the service interval, and I attempted to get some fresh fluid in there as preventative maintenance.


If it is still shifting ok and not hard to get into 2nd or other gears, I think you're ok for at least 10-15k. The newer GM MTF isn't as horrible as it used to be, at least from my replaced transmission.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## Nescafe (Mar 16, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> If it is still shifting ok and not hard to get into 2nd or other gears, I think you're ok for at least 10-15k. The newer GM MTF isn't as horrible as it used to be, at least from my replaced transmission.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Still functioning as normally as I can recall. It doesn't like being slam shiifted and the linkages under the hood are pretty loud ofcourse. 

I've been applying white lithium grease to the base of the shifter in the center console every oil change. Other than Amsoil synchromesh are there any other tweaks/mods to make sure the gearbox holds up over time?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Nescafe said:


> Still functioning as normally as I can recall. It doesn't like being slam shiifted and the linkages under the hood are pretty loud ofcourse.
> 
> I've been applying white lithium grease to the base of the shifter in the center console every oil change. Other than Amsoil synchromesh are there any other tweaks/mods to make sure the gearbox holds up over time?


Not really much more you can do for it. I liked the Amsoil 75w-90 fluid better if you don't live somewhere that gets super cold. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

Nescafe said:


> Hope one of you M32 manual transmission gurus can offer some insight to my odd situation. I spent about 3 hours at the dealership and ended up driving away confused and skeptical. Service advisor said my 2012 cruze required special transmission fluid, 11 quarts which they did not have on hand to do a flush. He offered a regular drain and fill of 4 quarts which I declined. They also "discovered" that my battery is kaput, and I declined for them to replace it... Now literally 8 hours later my battery starts to show signs of dying, engine cranks hard, windshield wipers and hazards come on, as it struggles to start, but the battery shows 14.4v.
> 
> I've researched my ass off, and last time I drained the oem fluid for Amsoil synchromesh my I ended up getting a warranty replacement transmission less than 5,000 miles later because it would pop out of 3rd gear, and after that I ended up getting another warranty transmission at a different Chevy dealer not so long after that...
> 
> So right now I'm going to replace my battery and negative cable, and forget about breaking the seal on my transmission. Any suggestions?


Sounds like another case of crappy dealer service. You'd think the service center at the place that sells the car you bought would know how to research information and know about their products. However they just see way too many vehicles to have specialized knowledge like you're going to find on a forum dedicated to the car.

So, I see you mentioned M32. There is two versions of this 6-speed manual transmission offered in the gen 1 Cruze, one for the 1LT & 2LT and a special M32 for the eco model. The only difference being gear ratios (the eco gets a triple over-drive transmission) It was discovered that GM was under filling the early year models with transmission fluid from the factory using only about 1.6 quarts. This would cause the bearings on the 5th & 6th gear shaft to be starved for oil, and the trans would also overheat causing premature failure. Symptoms for that are a whining noise that varies with road speed. The solution recommended by GM is to fill the transmission up to 2.5 quarts. 

It's also pretty widely accepted that the stock transmission fluid used is also really crappy, and changing to Amsoil synchromesh or 75w-90, though the brand isn't not specifically recommended by GM, seems to solve these issues. I can personally vouch for the synchromesh as I changed it in my 1LT at 7400 miles, and I'm now at 43,000. My 1-2 grind issues (more on that later) seemed to decline sharply and it feels smoother over-all.

Another issue lies with the choice in gear ratios. The transmissions was designed to assist the Cruze in getting the best possible fuel mileage so the gear ratios really, really suck. The 1.4L turbo is a tiny engine and has no boost when you're idling at a stop so 1st gear has to be really short to get that heavy car going. Then the gap between 1st and 2nd is so large you could fit another transmission in there, and every gear after that only has the goal of trying to keep the engine under 2K while you drive. And the gear gaps are even worse on the eco model. That makes the syncro's job much harder and tends to cause a grind under hard & fast shifting from 1-2. The transmission requests that you take your time in between gears applying light pressure to the gear you want and allow it to slot itself in when it feels good and ready. 

As for the battery, a healthy battery should read at the terminals ~12.7V when the car is off. But the only true way to know if your battery is good is to have it dynamically load tested. As mentioned, when the car is on, the alternator is usually charging (usually between 13.7v - 15.3v) to help supply electricity to the accessories and keep the battery topped off. When the battery begins to fail, it has a harder time holding a charge so the alternator has to supply much more electricity to keep it topped off so it works harder. Eventually it can't keep up and you get electrical gremlins or it will refuse to start. If your 2012 is still rocking the original 5-year old battery, it's almost certainly time to replace it but check to make sure it had the negative battery terminal recall taken care off first.

Hope some of this helps, let me know if you have any other questions or need some clarification on something above.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nescafe said:


> Still functioning as normally as I can recall. It doesn't like being slam shiifted and the linkages under the hood are pretty loud ofcourse.
> 
> I've been applying white lithium grease to the base of the shifter in the center console every oil change. Other than Amsoil synchromesh are there any other tweaks/mods to make sure the gearbox holds up over time?


My 2012 has been holding up adequately, with the exception of the flywheel that needed changing once. I've switched back and forth between AMSOIL Synchromesh and AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4, and have settled on the latter. Is imply need to let the car idle in neutral before taking off on very cold mornings for 30-45 seconds, but it works fine afterward. I always used 2.5 quarts (with the exception of the first time), and I haven't had the 5/6 gear shaft bearing failure that many with 2011/2012 transmissions reported. I have just over 69,000 miles now, and I am BNR tuned and also tow a boat (~1,000 pounds) regularly with my Cruze. My only issue is that my shifter starts sticking after long drives, but I suspect that has more to do with the shifter cables.


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## chris19000 (Oct 4, 2015)

Has anyone had any luck with the dealership replacing outside of regular warranty period/mileage? This started for me at about 110K (miles) but I kept racking up commuter miles until "I could get the time to check it out" and am now outside of even what I understand to be extended coverage amounts.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

chris19000 said:


> Has anyone had any luck with the dealership replacing outside of regular warranty period/mileage? This started for me at about 110K (miles) but I kept racking up commuter miles until "I could get the time to check it out" and am now outside of even what I understand to be extended coverage amounts.


GM sometimes offers to cover part of the cost as "good will," but it's usually only a fraction like 25% of the cost. You still have to foot most of the bill.


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## Nescafe (Mar 16, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> My 2012 has been holding up adequately, with the exception of the flywheel that needed changing once. I've switched back and forth between AMSOIL Synchromesh and AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4, and have settled on the latter. Is imply need to let the car idle in neutral before taking off on very cold mornings for 30-45 seconds, but it works fine afterward. I always used 2.5 quarts (with the exception of the first time), and I haven't had the 5/6 gear shaft bearing failure that many with 2011/2012 transmissions reported. I have just over 69,000 miles now, and I am BNR tuned and also tow a boat (~1,000 pounds) regularly with my Cruze. My only issue is that my shifter starts sticking after long drives, but I suspect that has more to do with the shifter cables.


I'm about to pull the trigger on the 75W-90 Amsoil fluid, since it's not detrimental to switch back and forth between the fluids from your experience. I'm weary tho, last time I swapped out the OEM for Amsoil Synchromesh the transmission started popping out of 3rd gear less than 5k miles later, ended up with a new trans on the now completed warranty....

It's just a drain and fill procedure right? No flushing for a manual trans?? Also is it advisable to measure how much fluid was drained or will 2.4~2.5 quarts be going in no matter what?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nescafe said:


> I'm about to pull the trigger on the 75W-90 Amsoil fluid, since it's not detrimental to switch back and forth between the fluids from your experience. I'm weary tho, last time I swapped out the OEM for Amsoil Synchromesh the transmission started popping out of 3rd gear less than 5k miles later, ended up with a new trans on the now completed warranty....
> 
> It's just a drain and fill procedure right? No flushing for a manual trans?? Also is it advisable to measure how much fluid was drained or will 2.4~2.5 quarts be going in no matter what?


I've run the Synchromesh fluid for 30k miles before, most of that tuned. Safe to say you had something going on that was unrelated to the fluid or caused by the old fluid. 

2.5 quarts no matter what. 

I've used and heavily abused both fluids. At 70k miles, the transmission is still shifting and feeling fine. 

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


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## Auuurrrgh (Dec 17, 2017)

I thought I would add a Me Too to this post. 2012 Eco with 44,500 miles started whining and I saw this post. I took it into the dealer to get the transmission oil changed and check on the noise. The service manager tried to convince me not to replace the oil until 60,000 miles. He called me a couple hours later and quoted me full price for the transmission replacement. I pushed back and got ~30% in "good will," which did little to improve my good will towards the company.

So here I am with a remanufactured transmission and wondering what to do to keep it in good shape. Has anyone had issues with the bearings in the M32 after filling it to 2.5 Quarts of Amsoil?


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## Nescafe (Mar 16, 2015)

Haven't seen any posts discussing the difference in M32 transmission cases from 2016 on, definitely good to know for anyone buying a used one from craigslist/ebay. If you ended up with the new one the casing has a new channel to get fluid to the last bearing.

I'm pretty jealous that in the UK they have so many cars using the M32, that there's a niche market aimed just for them. Says they got the tools from bosch and can split the casing to swap out the internals without dropping it from the car (on a vauxhall that is)... 

https://www.eco-torque.co.uk/single...eed-To-Know-About-Uprated-Bearings-End-Casing


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## denny759 (Feb 22, 2018)

Guys, I'm sorry if this has already been answered (I searched and couldnt find an answer) but do all Gen1 cruzes have the exact same m32 manual transmission. I understand that the eco model is a bit different than the regular manual BUT would a regular 2011 cruze 6 speed manual transmission be the exact same one as the 2015 cruze 6 speed manual trans? Please let me know. (Should i stay away from 2011, 2012 and 2013 models?)


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

denny759 said:


> Guys, I'm sorry if this has already been answered (I searched and couldnt find an answer) but do all Gen1 cruzes have the exact same m32 manual transmission. I understand that the eco model is a bit different than the regular manual BUT would a regular 2011 cruze 6 speed manual transmission be the exact same one as the 2015 cruze 6 speed manual trans? Please let me know. (Should i stay away from 2011, 2012 and 2013 models?)


The shifter assembly on top of the trans changed a little bit for 2013+, but it will bolt up the same.

I think they'll probably all have the bearing/flywheel failures.

The LT/Eco gearing is different. If you want to switch between one gearset and the other, the car won't care.


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## fisherju3800 (Apr 13, 2018)

Hello, I'm new to forum and new to the Cruze. I just picked up a 2016 Cruze Limited LS with the 1.8L and 6 speed manual, with about 8000 miles on the clock. I too have felt that the transmission is a bit notchy (not as bad as my 1987 Fiero GT), but still noticeable, especially when cold. 

I would like to switch out the transmission fluid, probably for the AMSOIL 5W-30, since I live in Michigan; however, I'm concerned about voiding the powertrain warranty. Anyone have experience with this? Are there any alternative fluids that GM recommended?

Thanks!


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

fisherju3800 said:


> Hello, I'm new to forum and new to the Cruze. I just picked up a 2016 Cruze Limited LS with the 1.8L and 6 speed manual, with about 8000 miles on the clock. I too have felt that the transmission is a bit notchy (not as bad as my 1987 Fiero GT), but still noticeable, especially when cold.
> 
> I would like to switch out the transmission fluid, probably for the AMSOIL 5W-30, since I live in Michigan; however, I'm concerned about voiding the powertrain warranty. Anyone have experience with this? Are there any alternative fluids that GM recommended?
> 
> Thanks!


There are no alternatives. 

AMSOIL synchromesh works well in that transmission, in those conditions. Some dealers have even filled the Synchromesh MTF for their customers.


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## fisherju3800 (Apr 13, 2018)

XtremeRevolution said:


> There are no alternatives.
> 
> AMSOIL synchromesh works well in that transmission, in those conditions. Some dealers have even filled the Synchromesh MTF for their customers.


Thank you for the response. I'll have to check with the dealer and see what they say.


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## 1988gmc355 (Jul 20, 2016)

Is there harm going to happen by parking uphill on my driveway that is somewhat steep and the fluid being at the back of the trans as I pull away before fluid begins to be moved around? You can hear noise before the fluid starts to really move. I guess I should back out and go down the hill when I pull away vs up the hill.


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## lonewolf04 (May 6, 2016)

fisherju3800 said:


> Hello, I'm new to forum and new to the Cruze. I just picked up a 2016 Cruze Limited LS with the 1.8L and 6 speed manual, with about 8000 miles on the clock. I too have felt that the transmission is a bit notchy (not as bad as my 1987 Fiero GT), but still noticeable, especially when cold.
> 
> I would like to switch out the transmission fluid, probably for the AMSOIL 5W-30, since I live in Michigan; however, I'm concerned about voiding the powertrain warranty. Anyone have experience with this? Are there any alternative fluids that GM recommended?
> 
> Thanks!


I live in Michigan and use amsoil synchromesh. I had my trans replaced under warranty with synchromesh in it and didn't get questioned. I was hoping it would have taken care of the slight 2nd gear whine it had, but bearing was going out. I never kept stock fluid in it during the winter since I bought it at 51k miles, now has 118k. When the trans is cold soaked overnight and you first start moving in the morning the shifter feels slightly notchy but nothing extreme. It goes away after maybe a mile or two.


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## zdzielinski (Jul 18, 2018)

Hey there,

I've recently bought a used 2012 Cruze Eco Manual at around 62k miles, so far I've ridden it up to 67k miles.

I was looking at replacing the transmission fluid as I can't verify if that's ever been done, although I had the clutch replaced so I'm not sure if my mechanic would have had to replace it when they replaced my clutch.

I'm unsure if I have the m32 transmission and I don't know how to check.

I'd like to put something besides OEM transmission oil in and if it's safe to put the amsoil transmission oil in then I'll do it, I just want to make absolutely 100% sure I have the right transmission for it, that I'm buying the right fluid, and that it actually is safe to put in my transmission.

Is anyone able to help me figure out these things? Aside from that, is it safe to change the transmission fluid at my mileage when I'm unsure if it's ever been changed? I'm not planning on doing a flush, just a self change by draining it out for a few hours.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

zdzielinski said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I've recently bought a used 2012 Cruze Eco Manual at around 62k miles, so far I've ridden it up to 67k miles.
> 
> ...


Yes, M32. 

Amsoik Synchromesh for an area with cold winter's; 75-90 for an area with mildish winter's (you rarely see teens to single digits). 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


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## reithi (Jul 9, 2015)

I recently had an issue with my wife's 2013 1.8 LS 5-Speed transmission with 78,000 kms (48,467 miles). I had taken the car for regular drive to check if it had any issues that required attention.

I stopped at a hardware store to buy some stuff but the car would not engage any gear. It seemed to be stuck on 5th gear in neutral position.

Having read this thread and having no record of changing transmission fluid, I totally freaked out I would need a new transmission. Got the car on a tow truck to take to my local garage.

After pulling the entire front suspension down, we got the transmission out. We drained about 1 liter (1.05 quarts) of totally worn out fluid and opened up the selector cover fearing the worst as Cruze is not a common car in these parts of the world. Finding a replacement would be an uphill task.

As luck would have it, we found it engaged all gears manually. No damaged synchronisers [emoji847]. I took the opportunity to replace clutch, plate and release bearing and refilled with 75W-90 transmission fluid. Thank you XtremeRevolution.

No meshing gears or notchy shifting just super smooth shifting [emoji2]


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## Muir86 (Dec 25, 2018)

Really nice writeup on the gearbox:th_dblthumb2: 
Would never have guessed my new Cruze shared the same box as my 2008 Corsa - will defo get right on changing the fluid once i get it!

To add I know a good telltale sign of worn main shaft bearings is stick movement in 1st & 5th, once that becomes noticeable you're probably looking at a new gearbox/complete refurbish in the near future.

My Corsa has just crossed 135k miles and his some play & movement, not in 1st/5th yet thankfully.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

The M32 calls for a straight 70W GL4. 

75w90 is too thick for anywhere but the hottest climes in my opinion, and I've found the cars with it in them feel "smooth" but at the sacrifice of quick shifts, they also feel sluggish to me. This is why neither Amsoil, nor any other major brand recommends it as a replacement for the specified GM 19259104 fluid. Even 5w30 syncromesh is to thick in my opinion, not mention it likely has sacrificed GL4 protection level, something necessary for the final drive and main shaft bearing components in particular.

Using a fluid that is literally more than twice as thick as recommended makes it "feel smooth", but this increased viscocity slows downs fluid evacuation from synchronizer comes and this shearing dramatically increases the oil, and the synchros temps. And lead to premature failure in worst case scenarios.

All that said, I really like, and highly recommend Redline MT-LV as an appropriate replacement for 19259104.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Ma v e n said:


> The M32 calls for a straight 70W GL4.
> 
> 75w90 is too thick for anywhere but the hottest climes in my opinion, and I've found the cars with it in them feel "smooth" but at the sacrifice of quick shifts, they also feel sluggish to me. This is why neither Amsoil, nor any other major brand recommends it as a replacement for the specified GM 19259104 fluid. Even 5w30 syncromesh is to thick in my opinion, not mention it likely has sacrificed GL4 protection level, something necessary for the final drive and main shaft bearing components in particular.
> 
> ...


Observe the date on this thread; November 2013. That's how long *hundreds* (if not over a thousand by now)of community members have been running both AMSOIL Synchromesh and AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4. 

75W-90 is a dual-rated gear oil. It has a wintergrade rating of 75, irrelevant at operating temperatures, and a 100C viscosity SAE rating of 90. However, 90 is simply a range on the scale, from 13.5 cSt to 24.0 cSt. That's a big range. AMSOIL's 75W-90 GL-4 is cSt of 13.9; all the way at the bottom of the scale. *Do not confuse AMSOIL's 75W-90 GL-4 with other 75W-90 GL-5 differential oils*. I have been using the 75W-90 GL-4 for about 40,000 miles, while BNR tuned and towing my boat and utility trailer (~900 pounds and 600 pounds empty, respectively), filled at 2.5 quarts. I can shift at 90F, and I can shift at -5F just the fine. It is not "too thick" and in fact shifts better at freezing temps than GM's fluid did. 

If you submit the oil for analysis on the factory Castrol BOT 303, you'll find a 100C cSt viscosity of 6.0-6.5. It is very thin, about as thin as ATF (really should make you reconsider your position on the importance of the EP additives in thicker gear oils) and intentionally done so for fuel economy at the expense of protection (go research the 5/6 gear shaft bearing and input shaft bearing failures on the M32; they didn't occur on Synchromesh or SAE 85/90 weight gear oils). This forum is full of complaints about GM's 70W fluid, and rightfully so; it works in low temperatures but causes some serious issues as it thins when heated, where hundreds of owners have concluded it is *too thin*. 

Because of all of the failures attributed to this excessively thin fluid, and because of the inconsistent and notchy shifting it causes when hot, most owners have switched to either of AMSOIL's options and have been quite happy with the results. The overwhelming majority are using AMSOIL Synchromesh, which has a cSt rating of 9.7 @ 100C. It is slightly thicker than the OEM fluid without being excessively thick. *I've sold about 120-140 changes per year for the last 5 years, primarily to M32 owners*. This is not a small sample size. If there were some real-world reasons to avoid recommending it, I would have heard them by now, or they would have been posted in threads like this. The oil analysis reports we have received also don't support your suspicion regarding premature failure or wear. 

All of the tribology research I've done has indicated that all Synchromesh fluids have GL-4 levels of EP additives (one link just as an example), so that's a misguided concern. 

Yes, thicker fluid takes longer to evacuate from the synchros, and if it were so thick that it would be problematic, you'd also notice greater difficulty shifting into gears (it would require more force to shift). There is a difference between a theoretical problem and a practical problem, and that difference can be explained by the question, "just how much of a difference does it actually make?" I'd argue that with Synchromesh or SAE-80 weight gear oils, that difference is negligible, and inconsequential with 85/90 dual-rated transmission fluids. 

I'll keep using the 75W-90 GL-4 MTF because I tow with this car, which is tuned and has a GTX turbo installed, running an E50 ethanol blend, and making substantially more power than it did when it was stock. So far, my shift quality and synchro engagement speed has been exceptionally good, especially since I designed the clutch accumulator bypass and removed the clutch delay valve.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

As I pointed out, a lot of my post was what I chose to opine on the subject. How many people use fluid x doesn't affect my opinion. In fact one could argue mt fluid usage is subjective. Ones smooth is my sluggish. My quick may be someone else's notchy. 

I don't argue that BOT303 is very thin, {6.2 at 100c by BPs own SDS if I recall}and I never recommended it, nor have I found it to be durable.

That said, swapping to a fluid with massively higher viscocity can/does have the side effects I mentioned. This is not opinion. The advantage or detriment of the behavior of the trans at differing viscocities is as I mentioned, subjective for most.

The 75w wintergrade viscocity may be
Irrelevant at operating temp, but that does not make them irrelevant. The Amsoil 75w90 has a viscocity at -40degrees of nearly six times that of the Redline MTLV, the Amsoil syncromesh, is even THICKER. And this increased viscocity is there from -40, to 40, to 100.

I'm not sure exactly what select facts you expect me to glean from Widmans write-up, nor do I believe the assertion that there are no Syncromesh formulations that offer less than GL4 protection levels. Amsoil states Syncromesh is for "transmissions and transaxles where non-extreme-pressure fluids are used". Nowhere in the MTF document (g2080) does it mention the fluid is suitable for applications where GL4 level protection is needed.

If your chosen fluid works and feels good for you, that's great, you should use it. Doesn't mean it's right for everyone and every car, as you mention your situation is unique. I offered differing opinions and anecdotal and factual evidence to go along with recommendations. It's up to individuals to make up their minds. Now there's one more quality fluid to choose from, one that is far superior in use to the stock fill, and still maintains proper levels of protections, proper viscocities and garners the makers approval for this applications.

Cheers.


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## Muir86 (Dec 25, 2018)

Here's a link to a very good indepth writeup on why & how M32 boxes fail: M32 Gearbox – WG Motorworks
General consensus being too low oil level causing insufficient lubrication of pinion bearings (premature wear & overheating) as well as poor quality factory fill - exactly the points Xtreme has listed.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Ma v e n said:


> As I pointed out, a lot of my post was what I chose to opine on the subject. How many people use fluid x doesn't affect my opinion. In fact one could argue mt fluid usage is subjective. Ones smooth is my sluggish. My quick may be someone else's notchy.
> 
> I don't argue that BOT303 is very thin, {6.2 at 100c by BPs own SDS if I recall}and I never recommended it, nor have I found it to be durable.
> 
> ...


People don't use "quick" and "notchy" interchangeably. Notchy refers to a resistance getting into gear. There is no confusion there, so let's not treat everyone's experience as being dubious or worthless. The metric just about everyone has used for transmission shifting performance is how quickly it gets into gear, how smoothly it gets into gear (lacking gritty feedback or resistance that you need to apply additional force to overcome), and whether or not the 1-2 gear shift grinds. People don't switch because everything is working great on the OEM fluid; they switch because there are problems. 

You don't recommend BOT 303 and acknowledge it's very thin, but you recommend Redline's equivalent, which is the same 100C cSt viscosity, without knowing anything about its formulation that might guarantee any better results. You don't see the problem there? Given the problems we've seen on the same viscosity, same GL rating fluid from the factory, I'm not seeing the justification and you've had two opportunities to provide it. What makes Redline's fluid a far superior one to the stock fill? It's the same viscosity, the same GL rating (and note, the stock fluid doesn't shear at all according to oil analysis, *so it actually is pretty durable*). Do you have anything to base this off of other than a general impression of Redline as a brand? Because I used to recommend them too before ConocoPhillips bought them out. Do you have any trending oil analysis from extended use on that fluid? Do you have any evidence to support your recommendation or the assertion that it's superior to the factory fill? What, exactly, makes it better in your eyes? 

I agree, the side effects exist, but as I noted in my post, you haven't discussed the degree to which they exist. *Just because something exists theoretically, doesn't mean it is consequential in context*. I don't expect you would have done any testing on this particular transmission to evaluate fluid temp or trending wear so I won't ask for the evidence, but if you can't at least give an indication of just how much of a difference you expect, then there's not much to be discussed; it's all rhetoric. Now, I have had people accidentally use AMSOIL's 75W-90 GL-5 Severe Gear differential oil and report some shifting difficulties which would support your analysis, but that's not the fluid we're discussing here, and is significantly thicker in viscosity than the 75W-90 GL-4 (which AMSOIL actually dual rates as an 85/90). The only time I've sold people the 75W-90 GL-4 is when they had a 1-2 shift grind and had no other way to get rid of it. The overwhelming majority of owners run Synchromesh, which I've run in the past as well. 

Synchromesh fluids are overwhelmingly GL-4 compliant even though they are not rated as such because GL ratings are typically reserved for applications where extreme pressure protection is required (differentials), of which the M32 is not one. The GL rating refers to the percentage of EP additives in the oil. Yes, the M32 contains a built-in differential, but it is not subjected to extreme pressure loads, as evidenced by the fact that the factory fill uses a 6.5 cSt transmission fluid and not one person, on any fluid, has ever reported an issue with the stock differential in the nine years this transmission has been in service in the US. Surely you are aware that an increase in viscosity also improves film strength, and that it's better to rely on hydrostatic film than it is to rely on boundary lubrication (EP additiveS) when that film fails. You're questioning GL ratings and in the same breath stating that the two fluids hundreds of Cruze owners have been using are twice as thick in viscosity. 

As for viscosity, you're going about it all wrong (besides the fact that your data isn't correct either). I don't care how the fluid flows at -40F, because 99.9% of people on this forum will not drive their vehicles in those conditions. Those who do will have engine block heaters at minimum, which will also transfer heat to the transmission that's bolted to it, or allow ample idle time to warm up the engine and transmission so they won't be operating the fluid at -40F. Viscosity is a nonlinear curve, and using one, two, or even three data points doesn't provide an accurate representation of viscosity. Fluid formulations may start thin and add polymers to thicken them at higher temps, or start thick and use pour point depressants and other viscosity index improvers to thin them when they cool. How a fluid performs at -40F is absolutely no indicator of how it will perform at -20F, 0F, or 30F, and you don't have the data necessary to make that evaluation. 

For example, at -40F, Synchromesh is thicker than 75w-90 GL-4. However, at 104F, Synchromesh is approximately half the viscosity of 75W-90 GL-4. Again, viscosity curves are nonlinear. 

I'll leave you with this oil analysis of AMSOIL's Synchromesh driven for 76,709 miles. Aside from some aluminum, likely entered through the breather port or leeched from the housing, the actual wear levels are remarkably low. The viscosity has thinned to a 7.1 cSt (rather close to the OEM fluid, in fact), but there is no noteworthy metallic wear that would support your blanket assertion that using a thicker fluid is going to cause long term wear or any other problems, or that the EP additive concentration of this fluid is inadequate.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Muir86 said:


> Here's a link to a very good indepth writeup on why & how M32 boxes fail: M32 Gearbox – WG Motorworks
> General consensus being too low oil level causing insufficient lubrication of pinion bearings (premature wear & overheating) as well as poor quality factory fill - exactly the points Xtreme has listed.


Curiously enough, they recommend a 75W-80 gear oil, which is a comparable viscosity to AMSOIL Synchromesh.


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## Cruze70 (Aug 28, 2014)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I wanted to create a thread that described the known issues with this transmission and their resolution. This contains the collective knowledge and experience of the CruzeTalk forum for the past couple of years, knowledge acquired from our brothers and sisters over on the Sonic Owners' Forum, and knowledge taken from overseas where the M32 is used in many Vauxhall and Holden vehicles.
> 
> *Notchy Shifting*
> This will develop as early as 5k miles and will worsen as it goes by. If you are reading this thinking to yourself "but my transmission is fine," then you don't know what this transmission should feel like. I thought mine was fine until the problem was explained to me. If you have to force your shifter into gear as you accelerate with even a moderate amount of power, you have a problem. I'm talking up-shifting, not down-shifting. I can shift my Cruze up with a pinky. The cause of this is degraded transmission fluid.
> ...



I disagree with this post, I have 100k miles on my 2014 Cruze with 6 speed manual, I have driven it in the mountains, in Florida during the summer, in Canada during the winter. I live in a city and in the summer time the heat is amazing. I have never had a single one of the issues listed up here. I have never needed anything other than routine maintenance except for replacing the waterpump at 89k miles.


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## MimiMomi (Jun 1, 2019)

My 2014 1.4L manual would only go into 3d gear on I-95. 60,605 miles. Dealer admits it needs a new transmission, which they say is covered under the warranty, but still want me to pay for the shifter cable, clutch and flywheel claiming they aren't covered under the powertrain..... can anyone help me to verify or give information which would help me advocate w/ my dealer?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

MimiMomi said:


> My 2014 1.4L manual would only go into 3d gear on I-95. 60,605 miles. Dealer admits it needs a new transmission, which they say is covered under the warranty, but still want me to pay for the shifter cable, clutch and flywheel claiming they aren't covered under the powertrain..... can anyone help me to verify or give information which would help me advocate w/ my dealer?


Clutch is a consumable. Flywheel is definitely covered. Shifter cable shouldn't need to be replaced; if it is because the trans is different, it should be warrantied.


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## lonewolf04 (May 6, 2016)

jblackburn said:


> Clutch is a consumable. Flywheel is definitely covered. Shifter cable shouldn't need to be replaced; if it is because the trans is different, it should be warrantied.


It was my understanding the shift cable is the same between the 2 different trans designs. The only thing different was the tower. I had my '12 replaced with a new trans a couple years ago (newer design) and there was no shift cable replacement. Regardless that would be a warranty item and it would associated with the trans replacement if it changed. 

I agree with you tough, everything but the clutch is covered.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

lonewolf04 said:


> It was my understanding the shift cable is the same between the 2 different trans designs. The only thing different was the tower. I had my '12 replaced with a new trans a couple years ago (newer design) and there was no shift cable replacement. Regardless that would be a warranty item and it would associated with the trans replacement if it changed.
> 
> I agree with you tough, everything but the clutch is covered.


Yes, same here - mine was replaced with the updated design & shift cables weren't needed. I did pay for the clutch and clutch actuator (throw-out bearing).


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## fisherju3800 (Apr 13, 2018)

I'm having an issue with my manual transmission (2016 Cruze Limited LS 1.8L 6M) that I haven't seen covered on the forum anywhere and was wondering if anyone else has experienced this. 

In January 2019 @ 23,395 miles, I noticed that the passenger side axle seal was leaking slightly (not dripping on the ground, but the transmission was covered in oil below it). Took it to the dealership and they replaced the seal and fluid under warranty. Later in the year (only a few months later), I noticed it was leaking again from the same seal. Took it to a different dealership (first experience wasn't the greatest) in early September @ 34,294 miles, and they again just replaced the seal. They claimed the first dealership did it wrong. It's now late September @ 34,700 miles, and the seal is leaking again, same as before. 

Thoughts? Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the resolution (transmission replacement, CV axle replacement)?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

fisherju3800 said:


> I'm having an issue with my manual transmission (2016 Cruze Limited LS 1.8L 6M) that I haven't seen covered on the forum anywhere and was wondering if anyone else has experienced this.
> 
> In January 2019 @ 23,395 miles, I noticed that the passenger side axle seal was leaking slightly (not dripping on the ground, but the transmission was covered in oil below it). Took it to the dealership and they replaced the seal and fluid under warranty. Later in the year (only a few months later), I noticed it was leaking again from the same seal. Took it to a different dealership (first experience wasn't the greatest) in early September @ 34,294 miles, and they again just replaced the seal. They claimed the first dealership did it wrong. It's now late September @ 34,700 miles, and the seal is leaking again, same as before.
> 
> Thoughts? Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the resolution (transmission replacement, CV axle replacement)?


I don't know if they did it wrong AGAIN, but I definitely had a seal leak after they removed the trans in my car to replace the flywheel (Drivers side). Another dealership replaced it and that was the end of it.


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## Adams (Sep 23, 2019)

Gunrunr said:


> I'm glad I came across this post. My manual 6 speed in my ECO started grinding 3rd gear at about 60k miles. It usually only did it under acceleration. I now have 84K miles on it and have finally taken it in. The next day the dealer called me and told me that they were ordering a new transmission for it. Thankfully its covered under their 100k mile drive-train warranty. I'm thinking of putting 5k miles on the new tranny to work out all the break in trash then switch over to Amsoil. Has anyone had to get a new transmission because of grinding gear issues?


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## Adams (Sep 23, 2019)

How did you get it covered under the warranty .the warranty expires 80,000.. you said you said you had 84,000 I'm at 85000


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Adams said:


> How did you get it covered under the warranty .the warranty expires 80,000.. you said you said you had 84,000 I'm at 85000


2011-2015 have a 5 yr/100,000 mile powertrain warranty.

2016+ have a 5 yr/60,000 mile powertrain warranty.


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## Adams (Sep 23, 2019)

According to your reply my 2012 Chevy cruze eco should be covered. It has a 1.4 turbo with 85000 mil . the dealer is telling me no. Any suggestions


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Adams said:


> According to your reply my 2012 Chevy cruze eco should be covered. It has a 1.4 turbo with 85000 mil . the dealer is telling me no. Any suggestions


Not anymore; it's >5 years old at this point.


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## Sillysonic (Nov 3, 2018)

I have an issue with a m32. It is rough going into 4 and sometimes 3. Once in the gear it acts normally with no noise or smell. I have tried to change the fluid to a Penzzoil Sychromesh and it did nothing. Is this a sign that I am losing a bearing or have other issues? To be honest I have a 2013 Chevy Sonic 1.4 ltr turbo. Your forums are just much better here


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Sillysonic said:


> I have an issue with a m32. It is rough going into 4 and sometimes 3. Once in the gear it acts normally with no noise or smell. I have tried to change the fluid to a Penzzoil Sychromesh and it did nothing. Is this a sign that I am losing a bearing or have other issues? To be honest I have a 2013 Chevy Sonic 1.4 ltr turbo. Your forums are just much better here


Sounds like the shift cables might need adjustment since they are in the same-ish position of the shifter. I believe this was somewhat common with Sonics.

Take a look at the link below:





Chevrolet Sonic Repair Manual: Manual Transmission Shift Lever Cable Adjustment - General - Manual - Transmission/Transaxle - Powertrain







www.csmans.com


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## fisherju3800 (Apr 13, 2018)

jblackburn said:


> I don't know if they did it wrong AGAIN, but I definitely had a seal leak after they removed the trans in my car to replace the flywheel (Drivers side). Another dealership replaced it and that was the end of it.


I took the car into the dealership again and this time they replaced the axle along with the seal. They said the axle was "excessively loose" in the transmission. So far no leaks, so that seems to have been the problem.


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## Dinodan1001 (Jan 12, 2021)

I have a 2014 Cruze LT 6 speed. Got it a year ago next month used. It has 76k miles on it and the clutch just went on the way home from the in laws. Until 2 days ago I had no issues what so ever. Occasionally I tried going into third and the shifter slipped over to third from a spot between first and third but that hasn’t happened since like a month after getting it. Yesterday while going uphill it kicked out of cruise control and reved higher than normal. Today going up that hill 4th, 5th, and 6th I have nothing but rev. Getting towed now. Calling dealership tomorrow. I have extended warranty but just the base hoping it’s covered.


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## Dinodan1001 (Jan 12, 2021)

Dinodan1001 said:


> I have a 2014 Cruze LT 6 speed. Got it a year ago next month used. It has 76k miles on it and the clutch just went on the way home from the in laws. Until 2 days ago I had no issues what so ever. Occasionally I tried going into third and the shifter slipped over to third from a spot between first and third but that hasn’t happened since like a month after getting it. Yesterday while going uphill it kicked out of cruise control and reved higher than normal. Today going up that hill 4th, 5th, and 6th I have nothing but rev. Getting towed now. Calling dealership tomorrow. I have extended warranty but just the base hoping it’s covered.


Called the dealership they don’t think it’s covered under my basic extended warranty. Quoting 1200-1500 without even looking at it. Can a Chevy representative confirm if this is covered or not like mentioned before?


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

What does your extended warranty cover then?


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## lonewolf04 (May 6, 2016)

Which extended warranty? There are multiple companies that offer. Most likely the clutch will fall under a wear item, same as a brake pad, and won't be covered on most plans.


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## geddinwk (Jul 31, 2017)

I could be totally wrong but the M32 requires GL-3 and not 4 because of the brass synchronizers. I fill with 2.5 of pennzoil syncromesh, amsoil syncromesh was too expensive and the 75w-90 was too hard in the winter. Also, could be wrong but the M32 gear oil change schedule is every 15K miles. GM really just set this gear box up for failure. The maintenance schedule is nonexistent, which is what causes so many problems.


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## Dave's World (Feb 4, 2021)

Would anyone happen to have a clutch delay valve they can sell me?


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## Jimster480 (11 mo ago)

After reading this thread; I'm going to change my fluid too.


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## bradymrw (10 mo ago)

I have 13 LS Original Owner @ 63k Difficulty getting in reverse at times especially when cold and and shift shifting when driving. Does this sound like a fluid change issue?
It drive well on highway when in 6 and absolutely no codes. Also has any one used 
*Ultralub Ultra1Plus SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil, API GL-4*

Instead of the AMSOIL which seems to recommended. This Ultralube is half the price of Amsoil .


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## Jimster480 (11 mo ago)

bradymrw said:


> I have 13 LS Original Owner @ 63k Difficulty getting in reverse at times especially when cold and and shift shifting when driving. Does this sound like a fluid change issue?
> It drive well on highway when in 6 and absolutely no codes. Also has any one used
> *Ultralub Ultra1Plus SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil, API GL-4*
> 
> Instead of the AMSOIL which seems to recommended. This Ultralube is half the price of Amsoil .


Could be a fluid thing especially if it hasn't been changed before. Mine has service records and has been changed before and my car has 90k. "

I would use Amsoil if you can swing it, because honestly they typically make the best fluids.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

If it's only in the cold, it sounds like a fluid issue. Mine was hard to get into 1st in the cold.

The other possibility is a shift cable out of adjustment.

I too would stick with the Amsoil fluids


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

so I just got a junk yard transmission at about 160k km/ 100k miles mileage . I've just pulled the diff and I came to a theory how these bearings pit so much, metal shavings. the magnet was absolutely covered and not only that there are pretty robust oil scavenging channels that would effectively funnel oil and floating gear chips into the bearings.

just a thought.


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## Rillywillynilly (Oct 16, 2021)

I may have missed this somewhere on the site so forgive me if this has been beaten to death. I'm wanting to change out the MTF on my 12 cruze eco, but wasn't entirely sure which weight to use. Odometer currently reads 84,663. Bone stock aside from the PCV kit from Xtreme.

My typical commute starts with 25 minutes of country driving, averaging 45-55mph. Then I hit the interstate for about 45 minutes, averaging speeds of roughly 85mph on a few hills that reach up to 7% grades for a couple (5) miles. The commute then ends with about 5 minutes of city driving. I don't race around town and I wouldn't classify myself as a "spirited driver" but I do like to keep my commute times short so I try to make decent time on the interstate. It looks like I've got the older gearbox with the smaller bearings. That being said, what would be the best option for me to use to replace the old fluid in my transmission? This time of year I'm usually waking up to temps between 15-40 degrees (Fahrenheit) outside, but we don't usually see -0 temps more than maybe once or twice a year. Summers are usually 75-90 degrees. With the sustained higher speeds and pulling the long hills I figured maybe the heavier weight oil might be best to run, but I didn't know if the colder temps would give me fits. The general consensus seems to be that it's just a small bit of resistance for the first few miles when it's cold.

*Sorry. I should clarify that I'm mainly inquiring between the Synchromesh and the 75-90 as I imagine I'll be pointed toward AMSOIL. I'm open to other options, but my original inquiry was between those two


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Rillywillynilly said:


> I may have missed this somewhere on the site so forgive me if this has been beaten to death. I'm wanting to change out the MTF on my 12 cruze eco, but wasn't entirely sure which weight to use. Odometer currently reads 84,663. Bone stock aside from the PCV kit from Xtreme.
> 
> My typical commute starts with 25 minutes of country driving, averaging 45-55mph. Then I hit the interstate for about 45 minutes, averaging speeds of roughly 85mph on a few hills that reach up to 7% grades for a couple (5) miles. The commute then ends with about 5 minutes of city driving. I don't race around town and I wouldn't classify myself as a "spirited driver" but I do like to keep my commute times short so I try to make decent time on the interstate. It looks like I've got the older gearbox with the smaller bearings. That being said, what would be the best option for me to use to replace the old fluid in my transmission? This time of year I'm usually waking up to temps between 15-40 degrees (Fahrenheit) outside, but we don't usually see -0 temps more than maybe once or twice a year. Summers are usually 75-90 degrees. With the sustained higher speeds and pulling the long hills I figured maybe the heavier weight oil might be best to run, but I didn't know if the colder temps would give me fits. The general consensus seems to be that it's just a small bit of resistance for the first few miles when it's cold.
> 
> *Sorry. I should clarify that I'm mainly inquiring between the Synchromesh and the 75-90 as I imagine I'll be pointed toward AMSOIL. I'm open to other options, but my original inquiry was between those two


I would run the 75-90 in this. Yeah it’s a bit clunky when really cold, but shifts much better than the synchromesh the rest of the time. He used to recommend mixing the fluids but I’ve never tried that.


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## Jimster480 (11 mo ago)

jblackburn said:


> I would run the 75-90 in this. Yeah it’s a bit clunky when really cold, but shifts much better than the synchromesh the rest of the time. He used to recommend mixing the fluids but I’ve never tried that.


He could also try the blend. Would make for something not as thick


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Yeah currently running 1.5L of amsoil heavy gear and 1L amsoil Synchromesh.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Miss post


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