# Block heater plug use



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

its an oil pan heater, not a block heater

i have had it hanging out the hood at the right headlight, but the fit of the hood is pretty tight, i dont see the cord lasting too long that way

while mine was under block heater cord recall for awhile i was too busy to take it in, i didnt plug it in, the car started normal to -51c


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## albertacruze (Feb 5, 2015)

Go to an auto parts store and pick up a replacement block heater cord (not specific to your cruze just a generic replacement cord that is flat). Cut the block heater side plug end off and put on a female 3 prong plug end, plug the new length of cord into the heater cord under the hood. The flat cord hangs out of the hood nicely without getting pinched but is still held nice and snug.


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## bw_bi (Oct 13, 2015)

Thanks for your input - i am still pondering on my best solution.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Didn't have block heaters back then, nor could afford alcohol anti-freeze at six bucks a gallon when minimum wage was 75 cents per hour. Ha, had to drain the block and radiator every night, but back then, they made this easy. Get up early in the morning and heat a pot of water on the stove and pour that in. If you flooded the engine or frosted up the spark plugs, had to pull them and heat them over the gas range. During your break or lunch hour, had to go out and run the engine so the block wouldn't freeze.

Back then the first block heaters has a 1,000 watt element and had a check valve so had to be installed in the lower radiator hose, upper would be blocked by the engine thermostat. And had to be installed the same way coolant would flow or wouldn't get any coolant flow at all. Practically all vehicles need this in cold weather with a carburetor to start the darn thing. Air was so cold, didn't vaporized the gas and would flood the engine. Fuel injection solved this problem.

But not a cure for a diesel depending on compression to get that combustion, glow plugs help a little but not that much. A heated garage sure helps. Electricity was around a penny a KWH, getting pretty expensive today at over 15 times the price. Minimum wage sure didn't go up this much.

Did you know those two 2,200 volt power transmission lines are not grounded. If they were, would attract lightning. But this feeds a center tapped step down transformer for two 120V lines with 240V across the pair. And NEC law states you must ground that center tap that makes your whole home subject to lightning. That lightning is sure attracted to a ground.

And with metal plumbing and you in a bathtub puts you in the circuit if you drop in a 120V appliance. Wouldn't if that plumbing wasn't grounded, the path would be within the appliance itself. The reason my son's father-in-law's recently burnt down to the ground, was hit by a ground electrical that attracts lightning. Neutral is grounded and tied to that third wire ground, but current is not suppose to flow through that grounded wire. So thus the U-ground plug. After this came polarized two prong plugs in all plastic appliances today. Only difference is the hot wire goes through the switch, but still hot inside. And nothing gained in a lamp socket, will still get a shock if you stick your finger in there.

Ha, got me started when a U-ground plug was mentioned, but neutral is grounded anyway. Would sure check that heater element that both wires are not grounded, could make your vehicle subject to lightning. Pouring tons of salt on the roads doesn't help either, besides converting your dream car into a pile of rust. 

Back then, just left the plug up high and had to open the hood, sticking it out the grill, would also be exposed to road salt and will have a corroded mess. Don't have this problem down south, another solution, but watch out for the flooding and hurricanes.


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## bw_bi (Oct 13, 2015)

NickD - Thanks for the historical perspective. I'm glad we continue to innovate and make progress. The kind of solution I'm interested would be designed into future models by providing a through port inlet similar to the plug inlet designed into electric cars. A more refined, user friendly fit/finish for this option.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

an oil pan heater is a waste of money. a true block heater or coolant heater/circulator is the only thing worth your time.


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## James1549 (Sep 14, 2015)

Cut a large hole in the fender and mount this ejector! When you turn the key on, the cord will eject automatically so you won't drive off still plugged in.

Kussmaul Electronics WP Auto Eject, Model #: 091-18WP-120


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## bw_bi (Oct 13, 2015)

James1549 This is the idea. Is the fender strong enough to hold this kind of installation?


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## James1549 (Sep 14, 2015)

Yes a fender is strong enough. You have to be sure you have enough clearance behind the area where you plan to install. The yellow is not the most appealing, try to find one in black. A lot of emergency vehicles use these for block heaters and on-board battery chargers.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

James-

Thanks for sharing such an interesting link! I guess for that gotta go service like an ambulance there needs to be an outlet like this. One could have googled for days and probably not found such an interesting outlet. 

I wonder what an EV car does if the driver attempts to drive off with the cord plugged in? Given the control systems of most EV's maybe it doesn't even start. 

Interesting plug for an RV or an ambulance.


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## CruzeDan (May 17, 2015)

Yea the Volt won't let you move with the plug in the car's receptacle, plugged into the mains or not. The Volt also has an antitheft system which will lock the cord to the receptacle and sound the alarm if it is tampered with.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

James1549 said:


> Cut a large hole in the fender and mount this ejector! When you turn the key on, the cord will eject automatically so you won't drive off still plugged in.
> 
> Kussmaul Electronics WP Auto Eject, Model #: 091-18WP-120



another derivative would be to mount this on the bumper cover in center behind where the license plate would be and then the plate could be mounted from hinges which would allow it to swing up and out of the way when you needed to plug it in.


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## bw_bi (Oct 13, 2015)

theonlypheonix - I've been looking at that very idea. Trying to figure out the hinge movement. There is little to no room for the plate to rotate around a hinge. May have to hinge the entire plate holder. Still working on it.


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## bw_bi (Oct 13, 2015)

theonlypheonix - I've been looking at that very idea. Trying to figure out the hinge movement. There is little to no room for the plate to rotate around a hinge. May have to hinge the entire plate holder. Still working on it.

Currently going with the through port at this link.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71d7bPSwbfL._SY355_.jpg


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

bw_bi, - that's what I was looking into was hinging the plate holder and fitting a magnet to keep the plate from blowing up in the air while driving.. 
Another basic plug : Black 15 Amp 125 Volt On-Board Charger Inlet | Marinco


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## Namuh333 (Dec 9, 2015)

Bought a 2015 Chevy Cruze in September. I was a little shock when I could not find a way to bring the block heater cord to the front of the vehicle through the grill area like I have done for last half century or so. I live where -40 is normal in winter months and somehow opening the hood every time you plug in doesn't cut it. Spoke to a GM mechanic and he told me that the block heater only cuts in after -18 celcius. That might be OK if you live in a milder climate area....but not here. I will be bringing in to the dealership and hopefully we can work something out... My suggestion - running another shorter extension through the grill (?) and connect to the block heater cord. The male plug for the extra extension would have to be put on after it has been threaded through the grill, etc.
Should know in a few days if it works....will keep you posted.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Namuh333 said:


> Bought a 2015 Chevy Cruze in September. I was a little shock when I could not find a way to bring the block heater cord to the front of the vehicle through the grill area like I have done for last half century or so. I live where -40 is normal in winter months and somehow opening the hood every time you plug in doesn't cut it. Spoke to a GM mechanic and he told me that the block heater only cuts in after -18 celcius. That might be OK if you live in a milder climate area....but not here. I will be bringing in to the dealership and hopefully we can work something out... My suggestion - running another shorter extension through the grill (?) and connect to the block heater cord. The male plug for the extra extension would have to be put on after it has been threaded through the grill, etc.
> Should know in a few days if it works....will keep you posted.


theres a mod on this forum to bypass the-18c thing...

ive never plugged a vehicle in until -15c anyways, so it doesnt bother me and besides its not a block heater, just oil pan heater


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

We regularly get -15°c and sometimes for a week or two see -30°c. I've never plugged in a car before in my life and they always start. Including my ctd last winter in -30°c temps.


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