# 2011 Manual Intermittent No Start



## mnpontoon (Nov 23, 2020)

Hello, 
I've read through many topics that seem to be similar to this, but very few have documented resolutions.
My 2011 Manual Cruze with the 1.8 engine has been having intermittent starting issues where I can hear the starter solenoid click, but no luck starting it. Usually after popping the hood and poking around it would start.
I replaced the starter as many threads/advice pointed to that.
The issue went away for a little while but returned, occurring once every few days at this point. 
After reading about the negative battery recall, I went and got that replaced, but am still having the same issue. My current method is to pop the hood, and tap the starter with a hammer and slam the hood down. Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't. The car has so far always started eventually, but its getting very tedious, especially with winter getting colder.
What should my next steps be? Fuse replacement, Starter Relay Replacement? Something else?

Thanks for the help


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Maybe the replacement starter was bad also?
I'd try replacing the starter relay. Relays are cheap. Also is the starter wire making good contact? Also, Battery?


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## mnpontoon (Nov 23, 2020)

Forgot to mention, battery was replaced less than a year ago. Not saying it couldn't be the issue. What would be the best way to check battery? Monitor voltage while trying to start during the no-start condition?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

mnpontoon said:


> Forgot to mention, battery was replaced less than a year ago. Not saying it couldn't be the issue. What would be the best way to check battery? Monitor voltage while trying to start during the no-start condition?


The best way is with a battery load tester. But the way you mentioned will work too.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mnpontoon said:


> I can hear the starter solenoid click, but no luck starting it.


I assume you mean you can hear the solenoid click, but the starter itself won't spin. That's a pretty common failure for GM starters. It's the contacts in the solenoid going bad. The usual fix is a new starter (with solenoid). However, if something is keeping the starter from fully engaging, the solenoid may not pull in far enough to hit the contacts. The other issue is if something is wrong with the power lead to the starter. Might be worth checking the big starter fuse (in a compartment on top of the battery - it looks like a strap) for stress fractures.


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## mnpontoon (Nov 23, 2020)

Update: During no start condition, I popped out the starter relay from the main fuse box and reinserted. Then monitored battery voltage (via internal display screen) while starting. It fired up on the first try after relay reinsertion with voltage dipping to 11.6V. (This was after 3 attempts to start it with only clicking)

I also checked the main starter fuse and it looked fine, but it also had the black plastic(?) shell around it. Wasn't sure if I was supposed to remove that to check.
It seems unlikely that it would be a second bad starter (brand new) and the result of this one trial points me toward replacing the relay. Hopefully I can repeat these results next time the issue occurs


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

mnpontoon said:


> Update: During no start condition, I popped out the starter relay from the main fuse box and reinserted. Then monitored battery voltage (via internal display screen) while starting. It fired up on the first try after relay reinsertion with voltage dipping to 11.6V. (This was after 3 attempts to start it with only clicking)
> 
> I also checked the main starter fuse and it looked fine, but it also had the black plastic(?) shell around it. Wasn't sure if I was supposed to remove that to check.
> It seems unlikely that it would be a second bad starter (brand new) and the result of this one trial points me toward replacing the relay. Hopefully I can repeat these results next time the issue occurs


Manufacturing defects happen more than you realize.

11.6V is on the low end of things. Ideally it should be near 12.7.

Also I was thinking it could also be a faulty clutch switch.


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## mnpontoon (Nov 23, 2020)

JLL said:


> Manufacturing defects happen more than you realize.
> 
> 11.6V is on the low end of things. Ideally it should be near 12.7.
> 
> Also I was thinking it could also be a faulty clutch switch.


I guess my thinking was that I was having the no-start issue, replaced the starter, and am still having the no-start issue. It seems like it would be more likely to be a different issue that wasn't resolved by the starter replacement rather than 2 identically faulty starters that only cause intermittent issues.

To clarify on the battery: 
Before starting its sitting around 11.8-12.0
During starting it drops to 11.5-11.7
After starting climbs up to 14.5V or so. 
-All monitored through onboard system

Any tips on checking clutch switch function?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Remove the switch and test it for continuity. It's a switch, so in the open position there should not be continuity. When the switch is in the closed position there should be continuity. If there isn't continuity when there should be or vice-versa, the switch is bad.

ALSO check the clutch pedal switch circuit for power at the electrical connector.


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