# Replaced my 3rd pcv valve today at 108k ...



## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

The original lasted until 32k, then the first replacement went at 77k. I'm now out of warranty (108k) and the other day while sitting at a light, I felt a slight stumble. I knew what it was even before I looked at the dash and saw the check engine light come on. Being out of warranty, I decided to do it myself, thanks to XtremeRevolution's excellent How-To. http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...-replace-valve-camshaft-cover-1-4l-turbo.html

I went to my local Chevy parts counter with the print out of what the valve cover assembly would cost from GM Parts Direct:


[SIZE=+1][/SIZE]55573746  Engine Camshaft & Valve Rocker Hardware  COVER 1$42.01 1$42.01$27.52$0.00$42.01Shipping & Processing & Handling:$10.97
 *Your Total Charges:*$52.98 
He agreed to sell it to me for the $52.98 plus sales tax. I could have ordered it, and saved on the sales tax, but I wanted to fix it right away as I drive up to 200 miles a day for work.

Here is what it looked like under my valve cover after 105,000 miles of GM Dexos blend oil, after having just removed the old valve cover. At 105k, I switched to full synthetic and did my own oil change.




























I cleaned up the cylinder head with a synthetic towel, installed the new valve cover, cleared the codes, and now I'm good to go. We'll see how long this pcv valve lasts now that I'm running full synthetic.


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## CruzeEcoBlueTopaz (Jan 5, 2012)

Im also on my 3rd valve cover. My first went at 105k and my second at 180k which is about a 90k miles average per valve cover for me. I recall reading a recent post from a member on the cruzetalk facebook page mentioning that under warranty GM techs are now instructed to replace the air intake manifold with a new version anytime they replace the valve cover. Perhaps a new air intake design might help prevent the valve covers from leaking air. 

Good luck with the new cover I hope it lasts more then 30k miles for you.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

You guys do know your 100k power train is good till 127k


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

SneakerFix said:


> You guys do know your 100k power train is good till 127k


what?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

CruzeEcoBlueTopaz said:


> Im also on my 3rd valve cover. My first went at 105k and my second at 180k which is about a 90k miles average per valve cover for me.


We both got our cars about the same time, so maybe it is as much a time thing with these as it is the miles.



CruzeEcoBlueTopaz said:


> I recall reading a recent post from a member on the cruzetalk facebook page mentioning that under warranty GM techs are now instructed to replace the air intake manifold with a new version anytime they replace the valve cover. Perhaps a new air intake design might help prevent the valve covers from leaking air.


When did they begin telling the techs to do this?



CruzeEcoBlueTopaz said:


> Good luck with the new cover I hope it lasts more then 30k miles for you.


Thanks. Good luck to you too!


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Were both of the replacement covers the revised style disc?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> Were both of the replacement covers the revised style disc?


The last one that was installed at 77k was the new style. I don't know about the one that was installed at 32k, but I would guess not. EDIT: First replacement was new style.

I have done my oil changes approx. every 5k. This year I have not been driving in a manner that is best for fuel mileage... In other words, I have been driving in a more "normal" manner, unlike last year where I drove with a lighter foot. I wonder if this has anything to do with this last pcv valve not lasting as long as the last one. The first year I had the Cruze, I did not drive as conservatively either.

32k out of the original pcv valve, 45k total out of the next, 31k out of the last one. Coincidence, or is it related to how easy I take it on the gas?


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

UpstateNYBill said:


> The last one that was installed at 77k was the new style. I don't know about the one that was installed at 32k, but I would guess not.


The new replacement engine that was installed in May of 2012 in my cruze came wit the new style, This engine has 50K on it now. The oil was changed every 3-5K for the first 20K with the dealer fill dexos blend, then switched to Mobil 1 which is changed every 6000-7500 miles.

I also drive my car pretty easy most of the time, using the torque app the there day on a 2hr drive recently I never passed 2800RPM. I do at least take my car to 5K RPM a few times a tank though, My average MPG for the last 3 months has been 37MPG with my 1LT auto.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

They revised it that early? Well then I'll revise my earlier statement since the 1st replacement didn't occur until Oct. of 2012. It must have been the newer style.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

UpstateNYBill said:


> They revised it that early? Well then I'll revise my earlier statement since the 1st replacement didn't occur until Oct. of 2012. It must have been the newer style.


That's why I mentioned it. Was shocked the other day when I removed the ecotec cover to see which version my car had.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

spacedout said:


> That's why I mentioned it. Was shocked the other day when I removed the ecotec cover to see which version my car had.


How can one tell what version is on the engine? Is there a part number under the Ecotec cover, or is there something else that's visual?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

carbon02 said:


> How can one tell what version is on the engine? Is there a part number under the Ecotec cover, or is there something else that's visual?


The newer style valve cover turns up at the little vent port on the disc. The older style was pretty much flat. 

Old:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sTeM4BZwaqM

New:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fDdLxOUcSdU

It was apparently redesigned again but doesn't look any different from the "new" version.

My car (2011 build date 2012 model) came with the old disc but I think later 12's came with the new style.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

It's time for my 4th pcv valve cover. Noticed a slight stumble and bucking tonight when I was almost home. Check engine light came on a minute later, and the engine has pretty rough idle now and I can hear and feel air hissing from the cover. Hooked up my cheap code reader, and pulled P0106, P015B, and finally C342D, whatever that is.

It's been 45k since my last pcv valve, and while I've been running full synthetic oil since 100k (at 153k now), I've been pushing the engine a little harder than usual. I did manage to get 45k out of a pcv valve one other time with the semi-synthetic but I really babied the engine.

It has been in the back of my mind that I should pro-actively pick up a pcv valve cover since I figured I'd be needing another one soon, but never got around to it. I should listen to that little voice in my head a little more closely.


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## ndwood626 (Mar 2, 2013)

Just put my 4th one on two nights ago @ 179k. Hard to believe there isn't a better material to make these valves with. Not a hard job and the part isn't that expensive (usually $50 or so on the bay), but I cant help but think this could be fixed with a more capable material.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

There's another thread here on the Forum that was commented on by Robby about this topic. Apparently there's a bulletin to dealers saying they should remove the 1" PCV vent connection at the intake manifold, and look for an orange check valve. 

I believe it's the check valve in the intake manifold that is causing the failure of the valve covers. 

There's a post by "Preloader" over on Sonicforums.com that explains the PCV system operation, and shows pictures of the intake and this orange check valve that is part of the intake. 

The problem is replacement of the check valve requires a new intake. The intake is only sold fully loaded with the fuel rail and throttle body, and is several hundred dollars.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

carbon02 said:


> There's another thread here on the Forum that was commented on by Robby about this topic. Apparently there's a bulletin to dealers saying they should remove the 1" PCV vent connection at the intake manifold, and look for an orange check valve.
> 
> I believe it's the check valve in the intake manifold that is causing the failure of the valve covers.
> 
> ...


Yes I saw that thread. I haven't looked at my check valve yet.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Mine went through another valve cover 7K after the first one because that check valve was missing. Granted, I don't do the long highway stints that I believe you do.

However, I did definitely notice that the car was leaking oil out of the throttle body hose, so that's another indication.









^That's the little guy you're looking for. If you can't see in in there, take a few Q-tips and some solvent and try to clean off the back side of the little intake manifold port.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> Mine went through another valve cover 7K after the first one because that check valve was missing. Granted, I don't do the long highway stints that I believe you do.
> 
> However, I did definitely notice that the car was leaking oil out of the throttle body hose, so that's another indication.
> 
> ...


Where is that as you look at the engine and how does the hose come off that fills that hole?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Top/middle of the intake manifold at the back of the engine; there's a corrugated hose that wraps around the top of the head from the turbocharger to the top of the intake and a little metal clip that holds it on. Careful removing it - the plastic gets brittle.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

jsusanka said:


> Where is that as you look at the engine and how does the hose come off that fills that hole?


That connection is at the center on the engine, near the back on the intake manifold. I believe you remove the connection by removing the "C-Clip" or pulling it back, and then lifting the hose off. Be carefull as this hose is plastic, and is known to be brittle.

I didn't read JBlackburns post before I wrote this. He got to it before I did!

JBlackburn- On your first intake manifold does the check valve litterally get pulled out of the intake when it goes bad? To the point where it's never found again? 

I guess I don't remember you ever mentioning this problem? The solution was a complete Intake manifold? Is there a source for these other then GM's fully integrated fuel rail and injector $300, solution?

Hopefully a company like Dorman is reading forums, and starts reviewing the engineering for this intake part. It's way to expensive packaged the way it currently is from AcDelco/GM.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

For whatever reason, the valve gets jammed into its port and won't return.
When it is jammed, you cannot see the tip of the valve.....thats why you pull the hose to see if the valve is visable.

If the valve is jammed, the PCV cannot handle the excess crankcase pressure that occurs under boost conditions for any length of time and the diaphram (disc) fails.
Chevrolet found this after a number of PCV failures, after a unusually short time after repair, failed again.

Although the intake manifold seems expensive, the realities are it is unusually inexpensive.
Comes with 4 injectors (usually close to $100.00 each) and a new throttle body that is close to three hundred by itself.
If it is out of warranty, you have some valuable parts to add to your personal inventory.(this assumes you are a bit of a gearhead, heh heh)

Rob


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

carbon02 said:


> That connection is at the center on the engine, near the back on the intake manifold. I believe you remove the connection by removing the "C-Clip" or pulling it back, and then lifting the hose off. Be carefull as this hose is plastic, and is known to be brittle.
> 
> I didn't read JBlackburns post before I wrote this. He got to it before I did!
> 
> ...


Nowhere to be found! I never got around to writing a post about it, but I had it replaced at the dealer under powertrain warranty, so I was not able to see the old part they removed. I did, however, have to look up the TSB myself after hearing about this and point them to the check valve to actually have it fixed - the dealer had never heard of this issue with Cruzen before, but now the shop foreman and several of the techs are aware of it.










I agree the new parts packaging they do on these cars is stupid. Throwing an unnecessary throttle body, injectors, and purge valve at a car that doesn't need it just seems like a waste to me.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> Mine went through another valve cover 7K after the first one because that check valve was missing. Granted, I don't do the long highway stints that I believe you do.
> 
> However, I did definitely notice that the car was leaking oil out of the throttle body hose, so that's another indication.
> 
> ...



I just checked and it is NOT visible. I was suspicious this time around that the valve in question was indeed stuck because my idle is MUCH worse this time around compared to the other times that my pcv valve cover went bad.

Is there any reason to suspect that trying to clean the check valve with some solvent will fix it so I don't have to replace the intake manifold? Has anyone had any success getting it unstuck?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I'll defer to Robby on that one. I'd hope it can just be removed, cleaned, and unstuck, but I suspect there is probably something to them replacing the whole manifold just for that.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Just great. I called the parts department at my go-to Chevy dealer, and they don't have an intake manifold in stock. Neither do any of the other local dealers. Looks like I'll have to replace the valve cover, and hope that the check valve will somehow free up.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I think it's something that most don't keep in stock & have to order.

RockAuto or GM Parts Direct should have them for cheaper than you can get from the dealer (around mid $300's if memory serves correctly).


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> I think it's something that most don't keep in stock & have to order.
> 
> RockAuto or GM Parts Direct should have them for cheaper than you can get from the dealer (around mid $300's if memory serves correctly).


I can get it from gmpartsdirect for about $320 shipped, but that is ground shipping. I'd like to replace it sooner than that, but 2nd day would cost me about $370 shipped. I might be able to have it on Monday for less than that from Chevy. I just show them the price sheet from gmpartsdirect and they cut me a deal for not much more than the $320.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

UpstateNYBill said:


> I went to my local Chevy parts counter with the print out of what the valve cover assembly would cost from GM Parts Direct:
> 
> 
> 55573746  Engine Camshaft & Valve Rocker Hardware COVER 1$42.011$42.01$27.52$0.00$42.01Shipping & Processing & Handling:$10.97 *Your Total Charges:*$52.98 
> He agreed to sell it to me for the $52.98 plus sales tax. I could have ordered it, and saved on the sales tax, but I wanted to fix it right away as I drive up to 200 miles a day for work.



Costs are up since the last time I looked at gmpartsdirect, especially the shipping which is double what it was last year..

*Order Summary*



 $44.39 
VALVE COVER _Part #55573746_ 
 

Subtotal$44.39Shipping$21.65
 
Total 
$66.04


Still got the new valve cover from my dealer for $56.32 so it pays to print out the page from gmpartsdirect showing just the cost of the part from them.

As for the intake manifold, I'm going to have to play it by ear. It was too late to order the part today. The parts guy is going to order it for me on Monday morning, but he can not say when it will be in. It would appear that due to limited availability, dealers aren't allowed to stock the part. They must submit the vin number of the car along with stating that the car is out of service in order to get the intake manifold shipped quickly. In other words, the intake manifold is on backorder.

Tomorrow I will replace the pcv valve cover assembly and see how it runs after that. Any ideas on what kind of cleaner I could use to try and free up the stuck check valve in the intake manifold? Brake cleaner? WD-40?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Try some carburetor cleaner.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

How about pulling the intake manifold and trying to reseat the check valve from the inside? Gaskets are individually available. 

I can't see how so many sellers have part ACDELCO 55581014 GM Original Equipment for sale, and they have it to ship out. I can't believe GM wants information such as VIN ect to order the part. 

I wonder if there's a new part number revision for this intake?

There's even a thread of someone trying to make an exterior check valve in the hose. I'm not sure I would do that, but this intake manifold is going to cause a lot of us grief if we keep the car. 

There's been tons of valve cover replacements. Now we know what maybe causing the failures, and many Cruzes are starting to run out of the 5 year powertrain. 

Lot's of us will be following this thread.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

ndwood626 said:


> Just put my 4th one on two nights ago @ 179k. Hard to believe there isn't a better material to make these valves with. Not a hard job and the part isn't that expensive (usually $50 or so on the bay), but I cant help but think this could be fixed with a more capable material.


Can you look and see if the orange check valve is visible?



carbon02 said:


> How about pulling the intake manifold and trying to reseat the check valve from the inside? Gaskets are individually available.


Since I didn't pick up a gasket for the intake manifold when I got my valve cover, I wasn't able to do this. I did try sticking a piece of wire in there and I can feel the check valve blocking the path, so it is definitely in there. I was able to get a piece of lightweight picture hanging wire past the check valve, but not a piece of coat hanger wire.



jblackburn said:


> Mine went through another valve cover 7K after the first one because that check valve was missing. Granted, I don't do the long highway stints that I believe you do.
> 
> However, I did definitely notice that the car was leaking oil out of the throttle body hose, so that's another indication.


The only leaking oil I had was an extremely minor seepage out of the one side of the valve cover, so minor it wasn't worth bothering with since I figured (correctly) that at some point I would be replacing it again anyway.

I did replace the valve cover this afternoon, and the Cruze is running and idling correctly again. I took it for a quick spin and all appears normal. Another look at the check valve shows it is still MIA though.

At this point I am unsure what to do. My thoughts on the subject are as such.

How long has my orange check valve really been MIA? Jblackburn's PCV valve cover only went 7K before failing again, but is that the norm? Might some go as long as 31K to 45K like mine did before failing again? If the check valve in my Cruze just went bad recently, then why did all my previous PCV valves go bad, even with the new PCV valve design?

My choices at this point are as follows...

1: Continue with the order for the intake manifold and replace it as soon as possible, which probably wouldn't be until next weekend.

Pros: Replacing now will guarantee longevity of new PCV valve.
Cons: Cost of the intake manifold.

2: Order the intake manifold and keep on hand for eventual replacement along with another PCV valve.

Pros: The part will be on hand for when it is needed.
Cons: Cost of the intake manifold and another PCV valve, plus failure could happen in the middle of winter.

3: Do nothing.

Pros: Cheap. if new PCV valve lasts another 45k, putting me at about 200K. This means I will have to buy another Cruze anyway, or I will be out of 
compliance for getting reimbusement for use of my personal for work purposes.
Cons: Failure of PCV valve could still happen in the middle of winter, and I would probably then have to order and wait for the intake manifold, plus 
another PCV valve, so cost could still be a factor.


I feel like being a guinea pig at this point and going with option 3, partly because I'm cheap. Yeah, it might cost me an additional PCV valve cover, but that's not much compared to the potential savings of as much as $400 or so. You can be sure I'll be bitching and complaining though if I have to go through all of this again in 7K miles, which would put me into early January and potentially nasty winter weather. lol


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

Could someone explain the sequence of events where this happens? If the check valve is missing does your car run like crap? I haven't had a chance to look for the check valve yet but my car is running great and since the ecm reprogramming I am getting like 32 mpg mostly city driving with a 2011 1LT vs the 27-28 I was getting before the programming. Do you have to a code for this to happen? Or could it be happening without any signs of problems? I have 45,000 miles and have never had a check engine light and the car is still running smooth and zero oil consumption between once a year oil changes.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

jsusanka said:


> Could someone explain the sequence of events where this happens? If the check valve is missing does your car run like crap? I haven't had a chance to look for the check valve yet but my car is running great and since the ecm reprogramming I am getting like 32 mpg mostly city driving with a 2011 1LT vs the 27-28 I was getting before the programming. Do you have to a code for this to happen? Or could it be happening without any signs of problems? I have 45,000 miles and have never had a check engine light and the car is still running smooth and zero oil consumption between once a year oil changes.


My only symptoms were oil leaking at the throttle body hose. Oil level hadn't gone down on the stick. Car ran fine. Gas mileage was fine. No codes. But I guess it just puts the wear and tear on that rubber diaphragm, and my guess would be that it doesn't draw vacuum through the PCV system at idle or deceleration and defaults to drawing vacuum only under boost, since that's where these engines spend most of their life.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I would not order this part and keep it on hand. Given the high number of parts versions for things like the valve cover, coolant outlet, and coolant bleed to coolant tank, I suspect this part could go through a revision. Or an aftermarket part could be offered. 

I guess purchasing a used one from a recycler might be an option, but you'd have to carefully inspect the check valve. 'Preloader" over at Sonic Forums showed some pictures of the check valve from the inlet side of the manifold. Pictures you can only get with the intake removed. 

With a $10 gasket being available, I wonder if the check valve could be physically reset from inside the manifold.


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## roadrunnerA12 (Jan 21, 2015)

It's not a valve cover. It is a cam cover. Just sayin'


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> My only symptoms were oil leaking at the throttle body hose. Oil level hadn't gone down on the stick. Car ran fine. Gas mileage was fine. No codes. But I guess it just puts the wear and tear on that rubber diaphragm, and my guess would be that it doesn't draw vacuum through the PCV system at idle or deceleration and defaults to drawing vacuum only under boost, since that's where these engines spend most of their life.


Thanks do you know what the TSB is on the check valve? If I don't see the check valve I am going to get this fixed under warranty before it expires and I would like the TSB number if I have to take it in for the fix.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

roadrunnerA12 said:


> It's not a valve cover. It is a cam cover. Just sayin'


I'd agree, but...that's what GM's calling it too.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

jsusanka said:


> Thanks do you know what the TSB is on the check valve? If I don't see the check valve I am going to get this fixed under warranty before it expires and I would like the TSB number if I have to take it in for the fix.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

jblackburn said:


>


Thank you very much!. When you say leaking oil at the hose on the throttle body was it actually like dripping oil or did it just look dirty. I have cleaned around my throttle body what look liked grease, oil, and grime but I thought it was normal dirt and hasn't come back so far.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

jsusanka said:


> Thank you very much!. When you say leaking oil at the hose on the throttle body was it actually like dripping oil or did it just look dirty. I have cleaned around my throttle body what look liked grease, oil, and grime but I thought it was normal dirt and hasn't come back so far.


The small coolant hose and transmission just under where it connects to the throttle body were covered in fresh oil and a fair bit of grime too.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

carbon02 said:


> I would not order this part and keep it on hand. Given the high number of parts versions for things like the valve cover, coolant outlet, and coolant bleed to coolant tank, I suspect this part could go through a revision. Or an aftermarket part could be offered.
> 
> I guess purchasing a used one from a recycler might be an option, but you'd have to carefully inspect the check valve. 'Preloader" over at Sonic Forums showed some pictures of the check valve from the inlet side of the manifold. Pictures you can only get with the intake removed.
> 
> With a $10 gasket being available, I wonder if the check valve could be physically reset from inside the manifold.


I agree, Option 2 was my last choice and wasn't really a consideration.

I saw that picture, and while it's tempting to try and see if it can be "reset", I'm going to go with the guinea pig option because I want to see how long the new pcv valve will last. Even if I did manage to reset the check valve, I probably wouldn't trust that it would stay "reset".



roadrunnerA12 said:


> It's not a valve cover. It is a cam cover. Just sayin'


Yeah, like jblackburn said.

But also, you can look at it this way: "pcv valve" cover. In other words, a cover that includes a valve.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Experiment and see if it can be unstuck please! I want to know myself!


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> Experiment and see if it can be in-stuck please! I want to know myself!


Me too!

But I didn't list the other "pro" to doing option 3, and that is laziness. I don't want to do it if I don't have to! 

If I end up having another failure soon, I will have to replace it. At that point, I would have the old intake manifold to play around with, and I WILL keep this thread updated (or start a new thread).


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> The small coolant hose and transmission just under where it connects to the throttle body were covered in fresh oil and a fair bit of grime too.


Thanks for your help I haven't noticed anything like that the only parts I wiped off were the metal part on the throttle body and couldn't really tell if it was oil or not I didn't really think anything of it at the time. I am going to check the intake manifold and see If I can see that orange check valve. Hopefully all is okay but who knows and I figure I better check it before my power train warranty runs out next April.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

Finally got to check for the check valve in my intake manifold. Here are the pics so this is what I saw when i pulled the hose off so I guess I am good. Thanks for your help this forum rocks. Sorry for the pics but you can see the orange check valve in the pics my phone was just not dead center on top of the hole.
View attachment 169522
View attachment 169522
View attachment 169530


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## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

jsusanka said:


> Finally got to check for the check valve in my intake manifold. Here are the pics so this is what I saw when i pulled the hose off so I guess I am good. Thanks for your help this forum rocks. Sorry for the pics but you can see the orange check valve in the pics my phone was just not dead center on top of the hole.
> View attachment 169522
> View attachment 169522
> View attachment 169530


I have three Cruzes here right now. I checked all three: a '12 Eco Manual with 85,000 miles (already changed the cover once), a '12 Eco Auto with 54,000, and a '13 Eco manual with 30,000 miles. They all looked like your picture, although on all the valve was discolored brown and not orange. Is the thinking that yours is OK?

The '12 auto had a blown disc on its valve cover, so I just changed it today. Both it and the '13 are rebuilt titles, so there's no warranty. 

I thought about trying an external bypass of the check valve. The way the system is designed, the intake is connected to the breather box within the valve cover through ports in the head. Under boost the check closes and blowby it routed to the inlet of the turbo. Under vacuum manifold check is open and the blowby is drawn into the intake manifold. These ports would need to be blocked (maybe a stainless shim between the intake and head) and two ports could be put into the top of the valve cover inside breather box. One would connect to the intake with a check valve to prevent boost pressurizing the crankcase, and the other would run to the turbo inlet. 

It's not that in against buying intake manifolds, but I don't know that GM has solved the issue yet. I'd be likely to buy an intake if I knew that the issue wouldn't return.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Gus_Mahn said:


> I have three Cruzes here right now. I checked all three: a '12 Eco Manual with 85,000 miles (already changed the cover once), a '12 Eco Auto with 54,000, and a '13 Eco manual with 30,000 miles. They all looked like your picture, although on all the valve was discolored brown and not orange. Is the thinking that yours is OK?
> 
> The '12 auto had a blown disc on its valve cover, so I just changed it today. Both it and the '13 are rebuilt titles, so there's no warranty.


Chances are, the '12 auto was on it's original valve cover and it has been redesigned since then, so that can explain this particular failure even if the check valve is operating normally



Gus_Mahn said:


> It's not that in against buying intake manifolds, but I don't know that GM has solved the issue yet. I'd be likely to buy an intake if I knew that the issue wouldn't return.


It might take a while to find out if the new intake solves the problem for those who have had it replaced, especially since I suspect it takes a while for most valve covers to go bad even the check valve is bad. Time will tell.


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## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

UpstateNYBill said:


> Chances are, the '12 auto was on it's original valve cover and it has been redesigned since then, so that can explain this particular failure even if the check valve is operating normally
> 
> 
> 
> It might take a while to find out if the new intake solves the problem for those who have had it replaced, especially since I suspect it takes a while for most valve covers to go bad even the check valve is bad. Time will tell.


We got the car with 19,000 miles 2 1/2 years ago. The cover did look like the updated design with the little vent. Did all '12's come with the original design VC?


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

Gus_Mahn said:


> I have three Cruzes here right now. I checked all three: a '12 Eco Manual with 85,000 miles (already changed the cover once), a '12 Eco Auto with 54,000, and a '13 Eco manual with 30,000 miles. They all looked like your picture, although on all the valve was discolored brown and not orange. Is the thinking that yours is OK?
> 
> The '12 auto had a blown disc on its valve cover, so I just changed it today. Both it and the '13 are rebuilt titles, so there's no warranty.
> 
> ...



It is normal for it to be black. The procedure someone posted before was to clean the area with a q tip and some intake cleaner. I cleaned it with this AMSOIL Power Foam®. One swipe with the q tip and cleaner made the orange show.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Gus_Mahn said:


> We got the car with 19,000 miles 2 1/2 years ago. The cover did look like the updated design with the little vent. Did all '12's come with the original design VC?


From what others have said, the design change in the PCV valve cover did come at some point in the 2012 model year. What is the build date on the '12 auto?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Gus_Mahn said:


> We got the car with 19,000 miles 2 1/2 years ago. The cover did look like the updated design with the little vent. Did all '12's come with the original design VC?


Mine was the original design (flat valve disc, not the little raised vent). It's an early '12, 10/11 build date. Production of 2012 models was stopped for a bit in late 2011; I suspect that many of the updated parts were put on '12's after that.


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## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

UpstateNYBill said:


> From what others have said, the design change in the PCV valve cover did come at some point in the 2012 model year. What is the build date on the '12 auto?


It's fairly late production 3/12.


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## Farmer (Mar 6, 2013)

I cleaned out the hole with carb cleaner and the orange is not showing up. 
Oil is actively leaking through the throttle body and there is a slight shake when the engine is idle, similiar to when the A/C is turned on, but A/C is off.
There is no check engine light. Will the dealer replace the intake manifold under warranty?

Valve cover was replaced under warranty about 3 weeks ago.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Farmer said:


> I cleaned out the hole with carb cleaner and the orange is not showing up.
> Oil is actively leaking through the throttle body and there is a slight shake when the engine is idle, similiar to when the A/C is turned on, but A/C is off.
> There is no check engine light. Will the dealer replace the intake manifold under warranty?
> 
> Valve cover was replaced under warranty about 3 weeks ago.


Yes they should. Reference the PI number I provided somewhere above in this post and take that with you to the dealership. Mine was covered without (many) questions asked under PT warranty.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Just a minor update. Since I replaced the last valve cover at 153,000 and verified that the check valve was stuck, all is still well at 159,000. Crossing my fingers that even with a stuck check valve, I will make it through winter and beyond without having to replace another valve cover. Anyone want to take bets on whether I make it to the middle of summer or thereabouts (180,000 +/-) on this valve cover before it goes bad again?


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## iggy (Feb 14, 2013)

I just got done getting my second cam-cover replaced due to bad PCV valve , this on my 2012 cruze with 95,000 miles. As I recall the first replacement was done at around 62,000 miles. The mechanic told me I was the first he's done that required a second cover replacement.

Now, I'm wondering about this check valve in the intake, that's apparently in the PIP5197 tech service bulletin... I'm still unclear where this check valve is supposed to be located, I'd like to check mine to see if it's visible or not... if it's not, I'd like to see if I can get that fixed, assuming it's really what's causing the PCV valve failures

Can anyone help me find the darn thing?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

iggy said:


> I just got done getting my second cam-cover replaced due to bad PCV valve , this on my 2012 cruze with 95,000 miles. As I recall the first replacement was done at around 62,000 miles. The mechanic told me I was the first he's done that required a second cover replacement.
> 
> Now, I'm wondering about this check valve in the intake, that's apparently in the PIP5197 tech service bulletin... I'm still unclear where this check valve is supposed to be located, I'd like to check mine to see if it's visible or not... if it's not, I'd like to see if I can get that fixed, assuming it's really what's causing the PCV valve failures
> 
> Can anyone help me find the darn thing?


There's a plastic corrugated hose that wraps around the head from the turbo to the middle of the intake manifold on the back. Release the clip and pull it off the intake manifold and peer in the little hole. An orange dot should be visible at the back of the intake if your check valve is there.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

iggy said:


> I just got done getting my second cam-cover replaced due to bad PCV valve , this on my 2012 cruze with 95,000 miles. As I recall the first replacement was done at around 62,000 miles. The mechanic told me I was the first he's done that required a second cover replacement.
> 
> Now, I'm wondering about this check valve in the intake, that's apparently in the PIP5197 tech service bulletin... I'm still unclear where this check valve is supposed to be located, I'd like to check mine to see if it's visible or not... if it's not, I'd like to see if I can get that fixed, assuming it's really what's causing the PCV valve failures
> 
> Can anyone help me find the darn thing?


Right here... My finger is on it.









Please excuse the dirty engine compartment, winter is here. 

Btw, still going strong at 161k.


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## iggy (Feb 14, 2013)

Well it's back at the dealer. It drove fine for 25 miles. After work it was running rough and threw a code 302 ( cylinder 2 misfire ) the later a 0299 ( apparently a turbo code of some sort ). I asked the to be sure to check the intake check valve even if they figure it's the coil pack or something else. I just wait and see now.

Probably not related, but the did do the emissions recall ECU flash this morning in addition to the value cover replacement.


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## iggy (Feb 14, 2013)

Well, they say that they have replaced the intake on my cruze now, and also that I needed a new coil pack. The intake covered under warranty but not the coil pack...

At first hearing that the coil pack is not covered by 100,000 mile power train warranty I was dismayed , how can it not be covered I think to myself, the power train can't do nothing without it.

Early research says it's not covered, is a part of emissions which has it's own warranty, and coil packs are not covered out as far as 95K miles .

If it weren't for the fact that it drove 25 miles without any problems, I would have said... but the darn thing worked fine when I bought it to you, it doesn't now, it's your fault.

Meanwhile, I think they said something like $160 for the part and another $60 for labor to replace the coil pack.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

iggy said:


> Well, they say that they have replaced the intake on my cruze now, and also that I needed a new coil pack. The intake covered under warranty but not the coil pack...
> 
> At first hearing that the coil pack is not covered by 100,000 mile power train warranty I was dismayed , how can it not be covered I think to myself, the power train can't do nothing without it.
> 
> ...


 $160 is a good price considering it would be more than that shipped from gmpartsdirect. I'd be curious to know why they say the coil pack needs to be replaced. Sounds like they are giving it to you at their cost for a reason. Did they damage it when they removed it to replace the valve cover and intake? That would be my suspicion.


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## iggy (Feb 14, 2013)

Lets just say that one of the rubber boots on the coil pack is visibly cracked/torn. I did ask for the old parts back and did receive them back. So, while I can't say with 100% certainty that they damaged the boot upon the original valve cover repair, I do know that the last time I had pulled the coil pack, none of the boots were torn. Now, I haven't touched the coil pack or anything really in over a year. So, it's highly likely that the damage was done during the valve cover repair. Now, I can't even say for sure that the last time I had the coil pack off was before or after the first valve cover replacement. Bottom line, is it's highly likely they damaged it during the warranty repair of the valve cover. Another thing I do not know at this point in time, is if the old coil pack would still work if the ripped boot were replaced and nothing more. ( I will eventually test to see , once the weather gets warm again )

So, in general, I love this dealer they've been very good to me, better then any other car dealer I've ever used... So, I really don't want to raise a big ruckus about this. But what REALLY bothers me, is that GM can't produce cheap and readily available replacement boots for these freaking coil packs. It's totally unacceptable that you can't buy just the boot, or that a dealer can't even obtain just the boot. I know how easy it is to rip one, and I don't really fault the mechanic for the problem. I do find GM at fault for their in ability to provide replacement boots at a reasonable cost when they inevitably get ripped. 



UpstateNYBill said:


> $160 is a good price considering it would be more than that shipped from gmpartsdirect. I'd be curious to know why they say the coil pack needs to be replaced. Sounds like they are giving it to you at their cost for a reason. Did they damage it when they removed it to replace the valve cover and intake? That would be my suspicion.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

iggy said:


> So, in general, I love this dealer they've been very good to me, better then any other car dealer I've ever used... So, I really don't want to raise a big ruckus about this. But what REALLY bothers me, is that GM can't produce cheap and readily available replacement boots for these freaking coil packs. It's totally unacceptable that you can't buy just the boot, or that a dealer can't even obtain just the boot. I know how easy it is to rip one, and I don't really fault the mechanic for the problem. I do find GM at fault for their in ability to provide replacement boots at a reasonable cost when they inevitably get ripped.


Understandable, and one would expect that a boot will tear at some point, and isn't necessarily because of negligence or carelessness on the dealer's part.

You do have options. From another thread here on the forum...



> View attachment 115985
> I ran into the same problem when replacing my spark plugs for some reason at 20k miles one of my spark plugs was causing cylinder 4 to misfire. I looked up and down for just the spark plug boot and i couldnt fond anything. I ended up using the Autolite 500461 spark plug boot and cutting it from the top for the correct length and trimming off the top piece that would be to high for the valve cover so in the end it pretty much looked identical to our stock one. I also was able to use the stock springs so everything worked great. Car is running much smoother now.


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## iggy (Feb 14, 2013)

Yeah, well I do already have the Autolite boot in my garage and if I had known, I was going to be charged for a new coil pack and labor to install it, rather then it be covered under warranty, I probably would have done the repair myself ( assuming that it really was just the cracked boot and not actual damage to the coil pack ).

Now, I have 3 spare boots that aren't cracked, and maybe a good coil pack... that effectively cost me $228 . Oh, and by the way, near as I can tell, you can buy a new coil pack online ( rock auto ) for around $90. 

So, if I am critical of the situation, here's what seems to have happened. I get the standard check engine light and codes that indicate a bad PCV valve , which requires the replacement of the entire cam/valve cover, which is covered under the 100,000 mile drive train warranty, I take the car in for that. The drive in at 7AM when they open, no appointment at all, two hours later I'm on my way to work. ( not bad really, you find me another dealer that would do things that quickly with no appointment) I drive to work 25 miles everything seems fine, no missing, no problems. I do a bit of research and find out that these PCV valve failures can be a direct result of the failed check valve in the intake manifold, I think to myself 'I wonder if my check valve is broken' . I go to start my car to head home from work, I get to the first stop light and the car is miss firing, check engine light comes on, etc... ( I have the android app 'Torque' and a blutooth OBD2 reader ) I see using Torque that the light is for a misfire in cylinder two. Immediately I think... freaking coil pack and/or spark plug boot failure, and wonder if I can limp home. Eventually another code shows up P0299 (under boost), the dealer still being open as I drive by it on my way home, I stop in and let them know what's going on. They take the car and drive me home.

OK, so getting closer to the critical part... They had to remove the coil pack to swap the valve cover. Very likely they damaged the spark plug boot while removing it, they may or may not have actually known they did damage it. I drive 25 miles without problem but there after have problem with miss fire in cylinder #2, and a under boost code show up. I stop at the dealer on my way home to see what they have to say and get them to follow up on the repair they did that morning. I discuss the intake check valve issue and ask that they be sure to check that, etc... they drive me home and keep my car. I get a call later the next day , saying they are replacing the intake under warranty but are not sure if a coil pack is needed and warn me that it won't be covered under warranty if it is needed. Still later they call me again telling me that it did need a new coil pack and tell me how much that cost me and that I can get the car in the morning. 

Ok... so Because of original PCV valve issue ( old days it would have cost like $5 and 10 minutes to fix ), they pull coil pack to replace valve cover, probably damage the spark plug boot but may not have even noticed the damage done. I have to take the car back because of missfire, they then find the bad intake check valve and fix it, put things all back together and realize the miss fire still exists , solution is non warranty $220 job. I have to pay, because I cant say for sure, what is very likely the obvious problem for the non warranty work , is the failure of a another $5 part ( the spark plug boot, which you can't buy separate from the coil itself )... Ultimately I get screwed to the tune of $228 for what should have been all covered under warranty and/or a 4 inch rubber boot that should cost no more then $5. 

Me now one owner of two Chevrolet Cruze cars, pissed off at GM and the fact that they can't make a car that allows you to actually fix the darn cars by replacing cheap individual parts, but have to swap out larger expensive components that lead to other unforeseen failures of other small cheap parts that you can't buy individually. I tell you at this rate, GM will be bankrupt again in the future.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

FWIW, your traditional plastic PCV valve won't work with a turbo car. The setup gets more complicated when you have vacuum coming from two different places depending on whether or not the car is in boost. 

I agree, the coil pack parts not being available as separate parts is dumb though. And the turbo/manifold. And the intake manifold that comes with injector, throttle body, purge valve, etc.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

UpstateNYBill said:


> Just a minor update. Since I replaced the last valve cover at 153,000 and verified that the check valve was stuck, all is still well at 159,000. Crossing my fingers that even with a stuck check valve, I will make it through winter and beyond without having to replace another valve cover. Anyone want to take bets on whether I make it to the middle of summer or thereabouts (180,000 +/-) on this valve cover before it goes bad again?


Update! No one took me up on my bet. lol

Reached 180,000 today and still going strong on this valve cover with a known bad/missing check valve.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

jblackburn said:


>


Just printed this out for the Buick dealership I go to. My CEL came on and it's a P0171 code. This will be the second time I've had this valve replace but the first time was prior to this PI but after the redesign of the PCV valve itself.


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## Abodame99 (Jul 14, 2016)

Hello everyone! I'm about to get my 2nd camshaft cover in less than a year. I have a question though. My cruze is a 2012 ltz, and I only had the 50,000 mile powertrain warrenty. I'm at 62000 miles now, but when I got the cover replaced the 1st time last year, I was only at around 35000 miles. I checked the valve in the intake, and it's nowhere to be found. The dealership should have replaced the intake manifold at the same time they replaced the camshaft cover right? I'm going to go tomorrow and get them to replace the intake manifold and the pcv camshaft cover since they didn't follow TSB PIP5197B the first time. I should have a good case right?


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## Abodame99 (Jul 14, 2016)

Just to make sure I'm looking in the right spot!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Abodame99 said:


> Hello everyone! I'm about to get my 2nd camshaft cover in less than a year. I have a question though. My cruze is a 2012 ltz, and I only had the 50,000 mile powertrain warrenty. I'm at 62000 miles now, but when I got the cover replaced the 1st time last year, I was only at around 35000 miles. I checked the valve in the intake, and it's nowhere to be found. The dealership should have replaced the intake manifold at the same time they replaced the camshaft cover right? I'm going to go tomorrow and get them to replace the intake manifold and the pcv camshaft cover since they didn't follow TSB PIP5197B the first time. I should have a good case right?


Create an account at https://my.chevrolet.com/home/?evar18=ch_header_link and then add your car to the account. Check your warranty status. As far as I know all the 2012s had 100,000 mile /60 month power train warranties.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Abodame99 said:


> Hello everyone! I'm about to get my 2nd camshaft cover in less than a year. I have a question though. My cruze is a 2012 ltz, and I only had the 50,000 mile powertrain warrenty. I'm at 62000 miles now, but when I got the cover replaced the 1st time last year, I was only at around 35000 miles. I checked the valve in the intake, and it's nowhere to be found. The dealership should have replaced the intake manifold at the same time they replaced the camshaft cover right? I'm going to go tomorrow and get them to replace the intake manifold and the pcv camshaft cover since they didn't follow TSB PIP5197B the first time. I should have a good case right?


Hello Abodame99,

Thank you for keeping the forum in the communication loop! Please keep us updated on your dealership visit. Our team is available via private message and we are always happy to help in the best possible. We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused and look forward to your future updates.

Kind regards,

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Abodame99 (Jul 14, 2016)

Well, I just left the dealership. Obermd, you were right, it is 100000 mile warrenty. They replaced the camshaft cover. I showed them the TSB but they wouldn't replace the intake manifold because they said a TSB isn't an obligation to replace it. Does that sound right? I tried explaining to them it would save us all time and money in the long run, but he wasn't listening.


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## MrBlue (May 13, 2012)

This is disappointing to hear that there is an on-going issue. My CEL just came on tonight and the codes point to another cam cover, 1st one at 97,000 a year ago! The part that really stinks is that I'm at 128,000 miles and will have to pay to have it fixed. Paying for a cam cover it one thing, but add an intake manifold to the mix and it is going to be expensive. Yes I can do this myself but I expected better than this at 128,000 miles.
MrBue


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

MrBlue said:


> This is disappointing to hear that there is an on-going issue. My CEL just came on tonight and the codes point to another cam cover, 1st one at 97,000 a year ago! The part that really stinks is that I'm at 128,000 miles and will have to pay to have it fixed. Paying for a cam cover it one thing, but add an intake manifold to the mix and it is going to be expensive. Yes I can do this myself but I expected better than this at 128,000 miles.
> MrBue


How much longer do you expect to keep your current Cruze? I never bothered to replace my intake manifold, even though I am sure it has been missing the check valve for well over 100,000 miles. The cost of a manifold is around $300, that's the equivalent of 5 pcv valve covers. At 30,000 miles per cover (or more), that's an additional 180,000 miles for the same cost of the manifold (if you DIY). If you do replace the manifold, what's to keep it from going bad again anyway? There's probably a reason the new Cruze engine went back to a traditional pcv valve. Do the math, and then decide whether it is cost effective to replace the manifold. As long as the car runs fine with the new pcv valve cover, why bother?


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## amlechner (Aug 11, 2016)

Any update to this issue? I have a 2011 1.4 Eco Manual with 105k on it. The check engine light came on right at 101k, I know, how lucky right??!. I took it to the dealer finally right before 103k, they said the valve cover needed replaced, the "check valve in intake found to be missing", a coolant leak at the turbo, and the outlet neck of the turbo is cracked (total of $2100). The car runs mostly fine to be honest. It idles slightly rough, but I have noticed that the leaking valve cover has gotten worse over the last almost 2k, which I suppose is to be expected once a sealed system with pressure is pushing on something that already began failing. 

I hadn't gotten that far into reading this post until today, and quickly realized (after calling the local dealer today to get me a part number for the check valve) that you can only fix the check valve/diaphragm by replacing the full intake manifold assembly. (Am starting to put it together how the dealer got to $2100 - turbo/exhaust manifold assembly of $1200, intake manifold assembly at $350 plus labor, valve cover at $100 or whatever the stealership charges for it, plus labor @ $85/hour). I asked the service manager to give me a breakdown of the necessary parts and fixes so I knew how they got to $2100, he gave me a the generalities he told me on the phone - not extremely helpful, especially for an extremely detail oriented accountant.

I am happy to see UpstateNYBill's success in being a guinea pig and only replacing the much cheaper option of simply replacing the valve/cam cover, however, am not overly excited about any possible problems that this may cause to the turbo. I don't know how it could cause problems to the turbo, I don't know enough about the system to say what could/couldn't happen. I guess I'm still not throwing out the possibility that I may also replace the intake right now with the valve cover, in hopes that all will be well for quite a while, especially since the cost of it is the amount of a cheap new car payment for one month.

I rambled in my first real post and I apologize, but I've been thinking about this car for weeks, and I guess I am just looking to see if anyone had luck with a new intake assembly, or knows that the design has been modified to hopefully fix the mystery of the disappearing check valve, or see if anyone else feels compelled to reply in some useful manner that will help the Cruze Eco community.

Thanks,
Adam


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

amlechner-

There have been many people who have replaced the cam cover. I believe there's even youtube video's on it. This part is about $50.00. There is a member on this forum who has replaced the intake manifold. I believe he got it for around $280 new from an ebay seller. 

The turbo, there's people on here that have replaced or removed the turbo, but I don't think there's a how to with step by steps yet. 
A used turbo from a salvage yard goes $250-$300.. New I think one goes for about $500 maybe.. It appears that it's $590 from this link.

http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...2012&ukey_category=19399&ukey_trimLevel=25215

About $1000 in parts, assuming you really need the turbo.. 

I think your quote for over $2000 is high, even for a GM shop.. I think the procedure for the intake manifold maybe posted on the forum, and I would search for that intake manifold replacement thread. 

I'd do the valve cover, check the intake manifold check valve, replace the manifold if required, and then see if the turbo is still showing problems.. 

I understand the accountant thing, being an engineer myself. I've learned a lot from this forum, and there's a lot of us on here that would help if you decide you want to tackle it.

Good Luck-


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Update: I will pass 188,000 miles tomorrow and still going strong since I last replaced the PCV valve cover at 153,000 miles.

I would not be surprised at all if the check valve has been MIA since my first valve cover was replaced 32,000, otherwise why would it have gone bad in the first place? If so, that would be over 150,000 miles with a bad check valve. I am still on my original turbo which still works just fine, so needless to say, I am not worried about it.


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## mic* (Aug 16, 2016)

There are a plenty of Cruzes around now that are coming out of warranty and I am curious if anyone has modified this system? Eg. replace the corrugated hose with an appropriately sized bit of rubber hose with a standard type pcv check valve in it. 

I would link an image but I'm too noob :grin: *google: pcv check valve


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## chanoman19 (Sep 20, 2016)

My gf owns a 2012 Chevy cruse eco tec and i had to change the value cover on it because air was coming out of the small pvc valve and it stopped shaking.

Then i noticed that the hose that goes in the intake was releasing air through the hose. and i saw that in the forum to get a Q tip and clean it to see the check valve in the intake and i didn't see anything.

I remembered that my gf had replaced the motor once and kept it just in case for parts. My idea was to go to the old mortor and see if i can see the check valve and i finally saw it, but I had to take off from the motor. 

I have pictures to show you guys but dont know how to post pictures on her can someone help me so i post my pictures.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Just a minor update. I'm at 194,000 miles and still going strong on the pcv valve cover that I last replaced at 153,000 miles. Still missing the orange check valve, of course.


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## Juanton (Sep 26, 2016)

Hi all, Thank goodness for this forum. 

Have 2011 cruze that have engine light for vacuum leak constantly. And have the issues above except the blue smoke. The dealer already replaced my turbo last year as well as the PVC. I will have to check but is there a DIY for the pvc valve, and the intake manifold replacement as I am way beyond warranty?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Juanton said:


> Hi all, Thank goodness for this forum.
> 
> Have 2011 cruze that have engine light for vacuum leak constantly. And have the issues above except the blue smoke. The dealer already replaced my turbo last year as well as the PVC. I will have to check but is there a DIY for the pvc valve, and the intake manifold replacement as I am way beyond warranty?


DIY for the pcv valve cover replacement is here: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-...-replace-valve-camshaft-cover-1-4l-turbo.html

What codes are present? I wouldn't replace the pcv valve cover unless you know for a fact that is the cause of the problem.

If it is the problem, I personally wouldn't bother to spend $300+ on an intake manifold if replacing the pcv valve cover fixes the problem. I successfully ran my '12 Cruze for over 150,000 miles even though the check valve was missing from the intake manifold all that time. The cost of a couple of pcv valve covers is a lot less than the cost of an intake manifold and pcv valve cover.


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## Juanton (Sep 26, 2016)

So is safe to leave it? I agree the cost is alot compared to a pvc part. I only have 70 thousand miles in the engine and would like to keep it operational. its my daily car.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Juanton said:


> So is safe to leave it? I agree the cost is alot compared to a pvc part. I only have 70 thousand miles in the engine and would like to keep it operational. its my daily car.


As long as there are no codes and the car runs fine after pcv valve replacement, I think it is fine. My '12 Cruze never broke down once in nearly 200,000 miles even though it had a bad check valve in the intake for most of that time. I also got the best mpg and furthest tank ever of 727 miles for a non-eco Auto LT with that "bad" intake at 175,000 miles on the car.


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## Juanton (Sep 26, 2016)

I'm in NYC. I wonder how you can get 727 miles for a non ECO.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Juanton said:


> I'm in NYC. I wonder how you can get 727 miles for a non ECO.


Epic non-stop road trip to Florida and back!


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## Juanton (Sep 26, 2016)

brilliant. Just for argument sake, the check valve in the manifold. Did they redesigned or the defect is still present?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Juanton said:


> brilliant. Just for argument sake, the check valve in the manifold. Did they redesigned or the defect is still present?


I don't think anyone knows, but there is no evidence to suggest that there is a redesigned manifold or that a new manifold won't suffer the same problem. Time will tell. I have suggested that one of the reasons GM went to the Gen 2 design is because they know the Gen 1 design is flawed.

Regardless, logic dictates that you would have to (DIY) replace a minimum of 5 pcv valve covers out of warranty before it would equal the cost of a new (again, DIY) manifold, and pcv valve covers are a whole lot easier to replace. At the rate of failure I was experiencing, I would have had to drive approximately over 400,000 miles before it would start costing more to just keep replacing pcv valve covers than replacing the intake manifold.


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