# Sticky  FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir



## Justinus (Aug 18, 2014)

I installed the Viton 4.0mm ring a couple weeks ago along with topping up my coolant tank. I still have a lowering coolant level along with the cabin smell, so I ordered a bottle of dye and a UV flashlight to try and see if it will help locate the source of the leak. 

The Viton ring was much better fitting on cap installation than the one in my new tank cap, but I think it's entirely possible since I still have my issues that it's still venting. I don't want to cram on the 4.5mm ring unless it's entirely necessary, though.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I just stuck this thread and updated my http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...e-cabin-odors-sources-resolution-summary.html thread.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

To add to this thread, I was having the coolant venting issues as described in the OP. After discussing the issue with Blue Angel, I've been using the 4.5mm Buna-N o-ring since September 2014. I have not experienced any noticeable coolant loss since installing the new thicker o-ring. I haven't checked to see how well it is resisting compression set, but as long as it stays properly sealed I am happy. Great job on the write up!


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Justinus said:


> ...I think it's entirely possible since I still have my issues that it's still venting. I don't want to cram on the 4.5mm ring unless it's entirely necessary, though.


Are you still seeing moisture forming in the vent channel? Is the tank throat smooth? If yes to both, it's entirely possible your cap is not functioning properly. If you have a new cap and both new and old caps are leaking, well, I'm not sure what to tel you other than to try the 4.5mm o-ring in case your reservoir throat is oversized.

Let us know if you make progress.


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## Justinus (Aug 18, 2014)

Blue Angel said:


> Are you still seeing moisture forming in the vent channel? Is the tank throat smooth? If yes to both, it's entirely possible your cap is not functioning properly. If you have a new cap and both new and old caps are leaking, well, I'm not sure what to tel you other than to try the 4.5mm o-ring in case your reservoir throat is oversized.
> 
> Let us know if you make progress.


I haven't noticed moisture in the vent channel since replacing the tank/cap and installing the O-ring. That's why instead of doing more changes to the surge tank, I'm going for the dye test. I have a suspicion I may have a seperate problem.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Can't check my vent channel since it was REMOVED to add the longer vent tube per GM's wonder smell "fix". They did tape a longer vent tube on, which I have had to reattached a dozen times since the tape can't handle underhood heat or vent moisture. Would have to replace my surge tank because of said "fix", not really happy about them destroying part of my car for something that doesn't do crap to solve the problem. 

Wonder if I contacted CS if they would foot the bill? The vent tube that would have lasted the life of my car was replaced with a rubber tube and gorilla tape! Anyone have the part number on the surge tank?


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

spacedout said:


> Anyone have the part number on the surge tank?


13393368

13393368 | RESERVOIR | 2012 Chevrolet Cruze

Doorman has a tank and cap for $16.57 through RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5927844&cc=1501801

I'm not sure if that's a factory part or not? If it's actually a different (Doorman made) part it might be worth giving it a shot! If so, I would hold off on any o-ring mods until you prove the tank out.

I would give GM Customer Service a shot. Getting your dealer to agree to replace it it probably a waste of your time.

Just a thought, if you wanted to check your tank you could put a piece of clear packing tape over the vent channel opening. Any moisture would surely condense on the underside of the tape.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I ordered the 4.5 mm ring before BlueAngel was working with the Viton ring. Here's a few pointers for installing this larger ring. 


1. Put the o-ring on and lubricate it with coolant.

2. Carefully install the cap, if it doesn't thread all the way stop. Leave the cap as tight as it is, and leave the car parked for 24hrs. This gives the o-ring time to conform to the bottle.

3. The next day remove, relubricate and install the cap a little further, until it threads all the way. 

I initially could not turn the cap all the way. I was about 3/4 of a turn away from complete tightness. Allowing the cap to sit under pressure in the tank for a day allowed the new o-ring to mold to the tank. 

The cap now goes all the way on in one attempt, just like a factory cap would. It's that first tightening that can be somewhat over tight. Give it time, don't force it, or you will be replacing the tank! 

Works great. I would agree to start with the smaller Viton O-ring, but given the price of shipping of these rings, I didn't want to reorder them again.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I have one of the larger openings so I need the Buna o-ring. Watch out for this one - it doesn't handle the cold well and will vent after a while when it's cold but the cooling system is starting to build pressure. I need to order some more to deal with this.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I'm glad I ordered a half a dozen. I did notice that even the BUNA 4.5mm ring takes a visual compression really fast. In three weeks the new o-ring visually looks as flat and smooth as the old cap ring combo. 

Nice idea with the tape over the vent to see if it's leaking. I'll put a piece of scotch tape on it for observation. I've had really good luck with Dorman parts. Hopefully 6 rings will provide several years of excellent coolant service. If not, I'll be replacing the tank and cap with the DORMAN before I'll ever go back to ACDelco for this part. 

Thanks to both obermd and BlueAngel for this fix. My heat at the heater core is much more of a uniform temperature over time. I always knew the coolant was boiling, but I never realized how bad it was. 

I had a Cruze rental in Arizona that was always running the radiator fans even on 40F mornings. I think that car may have vented itself to it's death. I feel sorry for whoever buys it as a used car. What an 0-ring will fix.


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## Slammed2014Eco (Feb 13, 2014)

I ordered a new ring probably about 4 months ago or so, after meeting with Mike (Obermd) at a meet we had here in Denver we were checking out the coolant resevoir because of the amount of coolant I was using and I siwtched to the one he recommended (Can't remember the number off hand) but I haven't had any issues since and I also switched over to the coolant boost from amsoil after I stopped having venting issues.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Slammed - you have the Buna ring.


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## Slammed2014Eco (Feb 13, 2014)

What he said ^


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

obermd said:


> I have one of the larger openings so I need the Buna o-ring. Watch out for this one - it doesn't handle the cold well and will vent after a while when it's cold but the cooling system is starting to build pressure.


Mike, I noticed when it was really cold out, like -18C (0F) cold, that the cap would occasionally let off a little steam. I was at first concerned, but then the vent was dry for days afterward until another cold spike. I got thinking...

Thermal expansion varies with temperature; the greater the temperature difference, the greater the expansion difference. On really cold nights the coolant will contract more than normal, sucking more air through the cap (as designed). Then it heats up to the same temperature as normal, but from a lower starting temperature. When this happens it reaches the cap's operating pressure and a small amount of steam escapes.

To clarify, I believe this is the pressure relief in the cap operating as designed, not a leak past the o-ring.

I think this is normal operation and I didn't bother reporting it, though I probably should have. If the car goes back to a dry vent in warmer weather I don't think you've got anything to worry about.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm going to order several Buna o-rings later this week and replace the one I have. My coolant is down to the bottom of the arrow and there are no other signs of a leak.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

obermd said:


> I'm going to order several Buna o-rings later this week and replace the one I have. My coolant is down to the bottom of the arrow and there are no other signs of a leak.


I confirmed that my water pump is leaking this past week, so that was likely the source of my glacially slow coolant loss, since solving my cap o-rings and replacing my coolant vent tube. For me it was checking my coolant level for the first time in about a month and finding it at the bottom of the tank, and tell-tale signs of coolant below the water pump pulley... time for my car's first dealership visit since new.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

Thanks for your writeup. This is great information and such a simple solution with orings.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> time for my car's first dealership visit since new.


I never thought the day would come, where Blue Angel's baby would see the dealership for service! I noticed that the water pumps are now back in the Rockauto catalog for about $50. For a while they were totally missing, and I was thinking due to the extended warranty on the pump, manufacturers wouldn't be selling/stocking a part that most average people may not buy.

I haven't been in either, and I still have a splash shield that hasn't been cut. I really like how it keeps the bottom of the engine compartment so clean. 

The trick with the water pump would be supporting the engine. I'm not a fan of a jack on the aluminum oil pan, but Amazon does have a 3 point engine support bar for $60. 

Good luck with your first dealer visit.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

Great write up! I bought some rings. I was wondering if you could explain how to interact with this cooling system. If I take the cap off and replace the old ring in there do I have to go through the routine of letting the car run without the cap off before I put it back on or is that only for when I add fluid? I also overfilled my tank a little bit and the level is actually to the joint above your mark in the picture do you think that will be a problem? 

thanks for all you info I appreciate it


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

You don't need to worry about bleeding the cooling system unless you think you have air in it. Just taking the cap off and replacing it is fine, no worries there.

As far as the high coolant level, I wouldn't worry about it. If you see signs of venting and the fluid is too high, that's probably why. The system should loose a little water over time from that steam and the level should drop. If the level is correct and it's still venting, that's when you know something's still not right.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

carbon, it hasn't been into the dealer yet! If I could get my hands on a $50 water pump I would probably do the job myself. Chances of that happening are pretty slim for me up here in Canader, where the dealerships LOVE to charge for parts.

My car has to go in for a recall notice (air bag coil), so I might have to bite the bullet and just get the pump done at the same time. Drat.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

"We have received your order and wanted to confirm you know the V4.00X023 O-ring is backordered. We will e-mail when we have the expected date that they are due in from the factory. If you would like to upgrade to expedited shipping call or e-mail us. "

Blue Angel looks like you increased sales of their o-ring  looks like it is backordered.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

jsusanka said:


> Blue Angel looks like you increased sales of their o-ring  looks like it is backordered.


Time to call them up and collect my commission!


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Doing some technical googling, I found another potential source for you. 

Viton O-ring 23 x 4mm Price for 5 pcs - Orings and More

I haven't ordered from them, so please check everything out before ordering. It looks like they only sell packages of 5 rings for $6.30, but will ship them for $2.75. However, it looks like the 4.5 mm x23 BUNA ring is not there. If I recall from googling earlier this year the 4.5 mm cross sectional area is a bit harder to find. 

I also remember seeing amazon carry rings. "Viton O-Ring 23mm x 4 mm" you'll have to look there.

I believe here's the product on Amazon. Amazon specifies rings by OD. If the cross section is 4 mm and ID is 23 mm. OD is 31 mm right? Appears to be that way reading the posting info. Package size varies here all the way up to 100 rings per package. The link is for 5 rings for $8.20. Probably not the best price per ring, unless you buy the 25 pack, but that's a lot. 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQXOBBW/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Blue Angels original seller still gives you the advantage of buying a bunch of different sizes and materials to try to solve the issue. If they restock the Viton, I would probably order from them, unless I was doing an amazon order for other items. 

The problem is finding the 4.5mm x 23 mm Buna ring. I couldn't find it on Amazon. That cross section has to be an odd ball.


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## VINdecent (Feb 24, 2011)

My 2 Cents on this issue, it may help others troubleshoot. Thanks to the posters on this thread for helping me self troubleshoot this.

I have a 2011 Cruze 1LT RS 1.4 Auto

I ordered the O-Ring as well before they sold out and also ordered a new surge tank, cap and various hoses online from gm parts direct for $60 as I was about to dive into this myself, see my story below. 

I previously had the dealer do the water pump about 3 weeks ago under the service advisory as I was losing coolant pretty consistently. I must have bought 2 gallons of 50/50 mix over 3 months. 

Anyway I got it back and it was ok for about a week then started leaking again but this time it was different. I couldn't see anything obvious but the surge tank was venting and the coolant was now boiling where it didnt really do that before, I was mostly losing coolant from the water pump dripping. This new symptom was also causing coolant to hit the engine and cause steam to emanate from under the hood and also you can smell it in the cabin now. 

I put the new O-Ring on which sealed much better and checked the rim/lip and it was smooth on the tank. The engine did appear to warm up faster and blow hotter air from the HVAC. After this I noticed I was still losing coolant and now more rapidly. I finally found the culprit.

The Water Outlet has a small hole in the elbow which I couldn't see before, now it was very easily spotted due to it bubbling and steam coming out. I am thinking now the system is pressurized better it made the hole more visible. I noticed the coolant is bubbling from the joint and leaking onto the engine. I don't know if this is caused by the dealer putting pressure on it during the water pump replacement or if there was a smaller hole that grew over time.















Again it leaked from the pump before and the engine was clean to now leaking from somewhere higher and leaving Dexcool stains over the top driver side of the engine.

I called GM to find out if this is covered under the powertrain warranty since my bumper to bumper was up 2 years ago. The lady on the phone while nice was not sure, I found the wording on the website regarding the cooling system unclear as it stated "and/or outlet" . They through in a free hour of troubleshooting on my file if I bring it into service since the last time I brought my car in the dealer made me agree to a diagnostic charge of $129 an hour when I brought it in under the service advisory. They wound up covering it with no charge and I did wind up spending $500 with them on 2 tires, pads and rotors which I knew I needed anyway.

Anyway I am awaiting a call back from the dealer to schedule this, I found the part for $20 online (*55565334 )* but if I can get this covered I might as well since I don't want Dexcool all over my driveway when swapping this part out and risk them using it against me if I have future claims on the powertrain.

In the end I think there are a multitude of issues with the cooling system design on the early Cruze's, from the water pump to the surge tank sealing to the various parts in between.

Also my AC hasn't worked in 2 years also but that is another story for another thread...


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

FYI on the stock status of the o-rings. 

Your sales order #58873 is attached. 


The O-rings are expected in by 3-12-2015 from the factory. The warehouse will check them in and ship the order out complete ASAP. 

Thank you for your business - we appreciate it very much.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

VINDecent-

Your first picture is zoomed in so far I can't specifically tell where it's leaking. Some members have reported leaks on the hose from the water outlet to the top of the coolant reservoir. This is the coolant bleed hose. I believe that's what GM calls it.

Isn't 55565334 a completely molded plastic piece? So the plastic is actually cracked and leaking? 

Make sure you check the coolant sensor that goes into 55565334. It appears that the sensors may be a press fit with an o-ring and clip, vs. a traditional threaded fitting. There's a seller on flea-bay that is selling 55565334 and it shows a lot of pictures, and apparently it comes with the electrical coolant sensor in it. It's that picture that made me realize that connections may not be traditional threaded, and rather may be a press fit with more o-rings.


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## VINdecent (Feb 24, 2011)

Hi Carbon, the part is the water return that I zoomed in, theres 4 Outlets after it leaves the block, 1 goes straight up and back to the surge tank, the other 2 go two the front to various places and the 3rd heads to the back, I cant remember exactly. 55565334 is a complete mold but you can see the crack in the crease of the elbow in mine. It started so small and underneath is the hot engine / exchaust manifold I believe so when it leaks on there it creates steam and the smell of burning coolant. I should be receiving the part tomorrow so I will dive in and see what kind of sensors are connected.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

While I haven't lookd physically at the car, I can't figure out the connection that heads out the back. The ones in the front are the water coolant from the oil cooler, connection to the top radiator, and air bleed back to the tank. 

The connection that heads to the back must maybe go to the throttle body? I suspect that's heated, you can't see that connection all that well. or maybe somehow it's tied into the heater core hose at the firewall? 

It's the heater core outlet to the coolant system. 

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAsse...4501&modelYear=2011&searchString=Heater+hoses


Now my mind is thinking. I'll have to take a look tonight. 

Good luck with the repair.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Could the connection heading to the back of the engine actually be going to the cabin heater core?


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

carbon02 said:


> The connection that heads to the back must maybe go to the throttle body? I suspect that's heated, you can't see that connection all that well. or maybe somehow it's tied into the heater core hose at the firewall?


The rear output of the water outlet goes straight to the heater core, the throttle bodies on these cars are not heated.


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## VINdecent (Feb 24, 2011)

Yes the one going straight back was going to the heater core. I replaced the water outlet over the weekend, it wasn't that bad just a lot of hoses to connect 3 torx bolts and a sensor which looks like a temperature probe possible on the inside. The new water outlet came with the sensor pre-installed and the gasket. Of course whatever coolant was in the hoses leaked out onto the engine, I had a pan under to catch as much as possible. So far no leaks or smells.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

VINdecent said:


> Yes the one going straight back was going to the heater core. I replaced the water outlet over the weekend, it wasn't that bad just a lot of hoses to connect 3 torx bolts and a sensor which looks like a temperature probe possible on the inside. The new water outlet came with the sensor pre-installed and the gasket. Of course whatever coolant was in the hoses leaked out onto the engine, I had a pan under to catch as much as possible. So far no leaks or smells.
> 
> View attachment 138226


I had the sensor leaking and the dealer just replaced the sensor. I wish they gave me a new water outlet under the power train warranty. Is the new one you bought plastic and is it a different design than the old one? I think this thing should be metal.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

BowtieGuy said:


> To add to this thread, I was having the coolant venting issues as described in the OP. After discussing the issue with Blue Angel, I've been using the 4.5mm Buna-N o-ring since September 2014. I have not experienced any noticeable coolant loss since installing the new thicker o-ring. I haven't checked to see how well it is resisting compression set, but as long as it stays properly sealed I am happy. Great job on the write up!


Since burping my system and filling it up to a little over the the full cold mark and not replacing any rings on my cap I am not seeing any coolant loss. I do have a question I do see a little white residue at end of the vent on the side of the reservoir tank. Is that normal? I am not losing any coolant and don't have any coolant smell. Since I am not losing coolant I am almost afraid to touch anything and replace the o-ring. I am thinking if I start to lose any coolant though I will replace an o-ring ( I bought a few and have them ready to go lol) but I am leaning towards leaving well enough alone.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

I would just clean the vent (it pops off the side of the reservoir) and then monitor for any signs of venting. The vent isn't a functional sealing component so you won't be disturbing the delicate balance of your cooling system.


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## VINdecent (Feb 24, 2011)

jsusanka said:


> I had the sensor leaking and the dealer just replaced the sensor. I wish they gave me a new water outlet under the power train warranty. Is the new one you bought plastic and is it a different design than the old one? I think this thing should be metal.


Funny my Wife said the same thing, she didnt understand how a little piece of plastic is connected between a metal engine and rubber hoses. It appears to be the same as the old one, it had a Made in Germany sticker on it. I was told the part number I had originally was replaced with a newer part number and I would receive the updated part. Perhaps a new vendor makes it? I know the hoses I ordered were made in some East European country and I think the Surge Tank was produced in Bulgaria, the surge tank appeared to be slightly different, better built.

So far No Leaks, knock on wood.

To summarize, the Water Pump was replaced, surge tank, cap, water outlet, overflow hose from outlet to surge tank, Had the new O-ring at first but didnt put one on the replacement cap since it appears to click now so I figured i would see how that goes.

Spent around $130 for everything from various sources, eBay gm dealer, GMpartsdirect.CO (not .com, they suck), the Oring store provided in this thread.

FYI the Water Outlet was backordered from the major online dealers with no ETA at the time, luckily I found a Buick dealer on ebay that had one in stock and sent it priority mail (restored my faith in some dealers).


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

I wonder if there's a high demand on the water outlets due to leaks?

Regarding the revised part number, it's likely if the part number changed then something functional changed with the part. If early parts were failing that could be why. Do you happen to have the two part numbers handy? The current part number listed through Cultrag is 55565334:

55565334 | WATER OUTLET | 2012 Chevrolet Cruze

For $21 it includes the coolant temp sensor, seems to be a decent value.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

BlueAngel-

A while back I was commenting about a thread about the air bleed hose leaking. In researching that thread I noticed there were two separate part numbers for the water outlet. If I recall from some pictures online from an E-Bay seller of the old part, the connection from the water outlet to the air bleed is different. 

In your link it's around the plastic piece at the top of the page. From the air bleed connection to the water outlet. 

I've never had this apart, and I know you have. Is this a hose connector with flow going through it, or is it some type of float check valve that lifts up to burp air, but remains seated to prevent coolant flow back to the tank?

I could be wrong, but with my engine running it doesn't seem like there's liquid flow in this line back to the coolant bottle. 

There's a lot going on at the water outlet, and I'm not sure that I've figured out the flow path of coolant with thermostat open & thermostat closed.

Thermostat closed just doesn't go to radiator, but always flows through heater core, but not air bleed, or at least it doesn't look like there's flow in the bottle.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

carbon, the connection is just an open hose connection. There's a small circular feature on the reservoir where the hose connects. If you watch it closely, every now and then a few small air bubbles will get trapped in it and spin around, indicating the flow into the reservoir.

It is my understanding that the flow through that line is actually quite high. Someone (obermd I think) posted when they had dye added to the cooling system, they saw it circulate back through the tank shortly after being added.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

That was me. It took less than a minute for the dye to start flowing back into the coolant tank.


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## VINdecent (Feb 24, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> I wonder if there's a high demand on the water outlets due to leaks?
> 
> Regarding the revised part number, it's likely if the part number changed then something functional changed with the part. If early parts were failing that could be why. Do you happen to have the two part numbers handy? The current part number listed through Cultrag is 55565334:
> 
> ...



My part was: [FONT=arial, sans-serif]25193922 if you google image the other part number [/FONT]55565334[FONT=arial, sans-serif] I see a few threads from international message boards that seem to have a similar problem and needing replacement.[/FONT]


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## theburro (Apr 7, 2013)

Thanks for this writeup. Hoping this solves my issue. New Cap on left, old cap on right. Note the gasket on the old cap. Nice and deformed. Car only has 54,000 miles on it.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

theburro said:


> Thanks for this writeup. Hoping this solves my issue. New Cap on left, old cap on right. Note the gasket on the old cap. Nice and deformed. Car only has 54,000 miles on it.
> 
> View attachment 174594



Does your new cap click when you put it back on or does it still go on without a click? I like to know if you need a new coolant tank or just a cap to get the click. I would like the click so I know the thing is on there all the way.


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## theburro (Apr 7, 2013)

There's no click. 

Only cap with a click that I know of is the gas cap ???


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

jsusanka said:


> Does your new cap click when you put it back on or does it still go on without a click? I like to know if you need a new coolant tank or just a cap to get the click. I would like the click so I know the thing is on there all the way.


Just spin it down until it stops spinning. My cap goes through a tight spin and then gets an easy spin before stopping. I, too, like the idea of a click stop cap, but that's unfortunately not what we have in the Cruze.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

theburro said:


> There's no click.
> 
> Only cap with a click that I know of is the gas cap ???


Last time I was at the dealer getting my water pump replaced I checked out a 2014 in the lobby of the dealer and I took the coolant cap off and put it back on and right when it was at the end of putting it back on it clicked and then you could not turn it anymore.


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## theburro (Apr 7, 2013)

jsusanka said:


> Last time I was at the dealer getting my water pump replaced I checked out a 2014 in the lobby of the dealer and I took the coolant cap off and put it back on and right when it was at the end of putting it back on it clicked and then you could not turn it anymore.


Maybe you broke it. LOL.

Factory cap and new cap both had no click on my 2013. I took the factory cap off a few times before to inspect things.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

jsusanka said:


> Last time I was at the dealer getting my water pump replaced I checked out a 2014 in the lobby of the dealer and I took the coolant cap off and put it back on and right when it was at the end of putting it back on it clicked and then you could not turn it anymore.


The surge tank was changed somewhere in 13 my and they have a 'indent' type feel just before the cap stops turning.....I suspect that is the 'click' you are asking about.

Not uncommon to run across running changes as a car/truck is continually updated as the build continues.
If you parked a 2011 next to a 2015 Cruze you would find lots of small physical differences.......and to drive one and then the other, you would notice NVH improvements as well as some driveability changes.
The way the biz is.

Rob


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Actually, the caps on newer cars do click into place. Here's a video I took of a '14 (I think) in a showroom:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5bhRqbVZQE&feature=youtu.be

I believe all caps have the locking feature, but only the newer tanks have a stop high enough to engage the first of the two raised tabs on the cap, giving that click just before seating.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Obermd & Others-

How long is the BUNA o-ring lasting? I think I'm currently leaking again out of the cap, with no other noticeable coolant losses. I think it's about 9 months on the BUNA ring. 

I briefly scanned this post again, and I believe Obermd mentioned that he had to order more rings. Maybe it's a temperature thing. It's -2F today, and when I installed the battery tender jr, on the factory battery I noticed the coolant was low.

I have to dig for where I placed those rings, or order others. I don't have Viton to try, but it appears the BUNA ring may have a short lifetime if your in the Midwest Northern tundra temperatures (<0F).


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

You didn't mention how low the coolant dropped.

It is normal to see it drop some as temperature falls (contraction) overnight but once up to operating temperature it often is back up to normal level.

Rob


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

carbon02 said:


> Obermd & Others-
> 
> How long is the BUNA o-ring lasting? I think I'm currently leaking again out of the cap, with no other noticeable coolant losses. I think it's about 9 months on the BUNA ring.
> 
> ...


I'm on my second winter with the Buna o-ring. Over the summer I lost maybe a quarter inch of coolant (cold engine) but it drops faster in the winter. This o-ring doesn't seal as well when the tank is cold.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

The coolant dropped maybe two ribs based on the markings on the side of the bottle. Final level before filling was level with the top of the lower outlet hose. It took maybe 2-3 cups to fill it back to the molded seal level of the tank. 

I the top of the coolant cap above the lower o-ring was wetter than normal. Leading me to believe I'm venting again. 

The water pump has had some dry coolant on it over the past year or so, but it would take a mechanic with a lot of patience to actually see it. Since the level stabilized after installing the ring last March I thought the pump was ok. I'm sure there's staining behind the pulley, I can see it with an inspection mirror, but there's not any on the timing cover, or a notable drip, so I think I may have issues asking for replacement. 

I'll have to look at it again. I'm a little leery of taking it in for the pump, because I don't want anyone jacking on the oil pan to support the engine. 

My 2012 still has the factory splash shield, and no recalls have been completed. 

I wish I had a topside engine support and I'd do the water pump myself this spring. Still trying to figure out what to use, vs. a floor jack on the oil pan. I believe this could easily cause an oil leak at the gasket.

Anyway sorry for getting off topic.. 

It's time to seriously look for the new BUNA rings. I should have put them in the glovebox!


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Carbon, I believe a small amount of venting is normal when it gets really cold out. The reason being, as the temperature drops more and more at night, the coolant contracts more as well, sucking more air in though the cap. When the engine warms up there is now more air in the system compared to when the car sits over night in warmer weather and the pressure rises enough to vent the excess.

I am using the Viton o-ring still and I noticed the same thing last week when it got bitter cold at night; my tank vent had condensation in it. I dried the tank throat, the vent and the underside of the cap, and since temps have been a little more reasonable the past week or so I have yet to see any more signs of venting.

Once the weather warms up a little in your area, try the same (take cap off and dry everything). If there's still venting going on with temps hovering just below freezing you may need a new o-ring. Note also that the VAST majority of people with a cap venting issue have coolant odors that enter the car while driving. If you are not smelling coolant in the car your cap and o-ring are likely doing OK.

If you have slow steady coolant loss over time the water pump is the #1 suspect. As Rob has pointed out before, a small amount of coolant weeping from the pump is considered normal, but shouldn't require frequent coolant top-ups. Maybe once/twice a year at most, down one bar or so. If you are seeing coolant residue behind the pulley it might need changing.


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Snappa said:


> In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?


Very few rubber compounds are resistant to glycol over the long term. The o-rings on the surge cap also have to deal with high temperatures, so my best guess is they do need to be replaced periodically.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Snappa said:


> In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?


Here's a link to the product page:

4mm X 23mm V75 Viton O-ring Black [V4.00X023] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

It states that the Viton o-rings are not compatible with glycol BRAKE fluids.

Here's a link to their fluid compatibility page:

Fluid Compatibility Chart : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

If you scroll down the list to Glycols you'll notice that Viton (V) gets a "1" rating, or "Excellent", indicating less than 10% swell.

Also consider that the o-ring isn't really submerged and in constant contact with the coolant, more so with water vapor that condenses at the top of the tank (the actual glycol in the coolant doesn't evaporate much).


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## theburro (Apr 7, 2013)

theburro said:


> Thanks for this writeup. Hoping this solves my issue. New Cap on left, old cap on right. Note the gasket on the old cap. Nice and deformed. Car only has 54,000 miles on it.
> 
> View attachment 174594


So far, so good. Coolant smell is not present on my 30 minute commute to work in the mornings for the last 2 weeks. Pretty happy now


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

So after a couple of weeks of single digit weather in the mornings my coolant level has dropped half a rib. This is about what I expected.


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## 03glgold (Jan 26, 2016)

So I am contemplating taking my Cruze in for program N140417 because my cruze is low on coolant and I am not finding where it is coming from. It is about an inch below full, unfortunately I don't know exactly where it was when I test drove it, because even though I checked oil and everything, that was the one thing I forgot to look at. I have driven 1800 miles since I got it a little over a month ago. On the test drive I paid attention and smelled for coolant as is advised on here in many places and it never came up on my test drive. Unfortunately, about 2 hours into my trip home from buying it, it did have a faint smell. Since then it intermittently smells like coolant. Sometimes I only notice it inside, sometimes only outside, and sometimes I smell it in both places, it is never super strong though, just enough to be noticeable. My question is if I take it in, what is the most expensive thing I can expect to encounter. It is a 12' with 51k miles on it now so it still has powertrain warranty yet, but I know that doesn't cover the vast majority of the cooling system. I am uncertain as to if it would be better for me to buy some dex-cool and put it in myself and see what changes, or if I should just take it in and let them do what they do. I have always owned everything outright and without warranty and have done everything myself, so I am not sure what my best option is on this one.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Welcome to the forum- 

I'd get some dexcool and fill it up to just under the weld seam where the tank is welded together. 

The next thing I would do is read the threads on the o-ring fix. Which I believe is covered in the seven pages of this tread. 

The aftermarket o-ring fix lasts about a year with really cold weather, then a new o-ring is required. There's clearly something going on with the 2012's not sealing between the radiator cap and the coolant tank. 

I changed the coolant o-ring again last week and used a little glycerin on the ring, made it screw down much smoother. 

Be careful, don't force anything, and make sure you order both o-rings suggested by Blue Angel. I ordered the BUNA ones before the Viton one was discovered, and I don't want to order again. 

With the engine hot in a garage out of the wind open the hood and sniff around. The thermostat water pump is on the passenger side. The coolant tank, and the water outlet hose, right to the left of the battery is on the drivers side. 

If you can see dried coolant you may have a leak. 

The water pump is covered under a special warranty for 10 years 120,000 miles I think.. 

The water outlet is also covered under powertrain I believe. 

But if it's not visually obvious you may find a shop won't give it time to actually fix it, and you'll have a bill for nothing.. 

Good Luck


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Water pump is 10 years/ 150,000 miles.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

> So I am contemplating taking my Cruze in for program N140417 because my cruze is low on coolant and I am not finding where it is coming from. It is about an inch below full, unfortunately I don't know exactly where it was when I test drove it, because even though I checked oil and everything, that was the one thing I forgot to look at. I have driven 1800 miles since I got it a little over a month ago. On the test drive I paid attention and smelled for coolant as is advised on here in many places and it never came up on my test drive. Unfortunately, about 2 hours into my trip home from buying it, it did have a faint smell. Since then it intermittently smells like coolant. Sometimes I only notice it inside, sometimes only outside, and sometimes I smell it in both places, it is never super strong though, just enough to be noticeable. My question is if I take it in, what is the most expensive thing I can expect to encounter. It is a 12' with 51k miles on it now so it still has powertrain warranty yet, but I know that doesn't cover the vast majority of the cooling system. I am uncertain as to if it would be better for me to buy some dex-cool and put it in myself and see what changes, or if I should just take it in and let them do what they do. I have always owned everything outright and without warranty and have done everything myself, so I am not sure what my best option is on this one.




Hey 03glgold, 

I?s sorry to hear that you?re experiencing concerns with your Cruze. Please know that your dealership would be in the best position to assist with this vehicle concern as they have the technical skills and expertise needed to properly diagnose your vehicle. If you would like assistance getting in contact with a dealership in your area, feel free to send us a private message and we would be glad to help. 

Cecil J. 
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## 03glgold (Jan 26, 2016)

Thanks to those that replied. I am thinking I will probably fill it myself and see if I can figure out whether it is the water pump area or the tank. I would guess the tank since there is no visible evidence. While I know where plenty of gm dealerships are, and the one in hays seems to be decent, I have trouble trusting a dealership to keep from trying to make it as expensive of a visit as possible.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

03glgold said:


> Thanks to those that replied. I am thinking I will probably fill it myself and see if I can figure out whether it is the water pump area or the tank. I would guess the tank since there is no visible evidence. While I know where plenty of gm dealerships are, and the one in hays seems to be decent, I have trouble trusting a dealership to keep from trying to make it as expensive of a visit as possible.


Purchase a small bottle of the GM florescent coolant dye. It will help you find the leak. These bottles are about $10.


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## tmlferguson (Mar 28, 2013)

Hi guys,

Great thread here.
Lots of information.
I think I’m going through the same thing.

About a month or so ago, I noticed that the fan was coming on a little more than normal, but my engine temp was staying consistent.
Then I lost my heat. Called my local mechanic and he suggested that I was low on coolant.
Sure enough, I open up the hood and the reservoir was pretty much empty.
Got some coolant and topped it up. Worked like a charm.

I checked it again today and it was low again…not as low as before, but pretty close.
I only have about 78K km on it.
I also recently had it in to my mechanic for it’s inspection and asked him to inspect the water pump and engine compartment for coolant leaks to which he reported that he saw none.

If/when I replace the O-Ring and it still loses coolant, where will I be looking next for the leak?

Does anyone have a Canadian source for the O-Rings?

Thanks!


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## zen_ (Mar 15, 2015)

Thanks for this guide. The Viton o-ring seems to have cured the occasional coolant smell I was getting as the engine approached operating temperature with the tank filled to full. Probably just a worn out part in my case.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Blue Angel is in Canada, and used the supplier that he listed to deliver. It's a really small package for a few rings, I don't believe he had any extra fees.


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## tmlferguson (Mar 28, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> Blue Angel is in Canada, and used the supplier that he listed to deliver. It's a really small package for a few rings, I don't believe he had any extra fees.


Right on. I didn't think that it would be expensive. I just would have rathered get them locally.
Thanks.


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

jsusanka said:


> Does your new cap click when you put it back on or does it still go on without a click? I like to know if you need a new coolant tank or just a cap to get the click. I would like the click so I know the thing is on there all the way.


I've go the 2014 diesel and yes my cap clicks.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Good thread. I think I might try the o-ring update. I did my oil change today and I noticed that the coolant seemed low. It was about half full (or half empty). I took a photo of my engine bay the morning after I purchased the car new, and it was at the full mark at that time. So it has gone down about half in two years. I took it over to the dealership and the service writer said it looked a little low, but he thought it was OK because he doesn't see any leaks, and the car was hot at the time, and it fluctuates. He asked if I had the coolant recall done. They did it about a year ago. I also don't see any leaks or stains, and there is no coolant smell anywhere, anytime. I checked the coolant cap, and there was some white crud on the o-ring, which I cleaned off. And the o-ring does look a little flat. The cap does click when it is tight. I am going to fill it myself in the morning and see how long it takes to drop down again.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I topped off the tank this morning. I could clearly see where small amounts of coolant have dripped out of the fill cap and run down the front of the tank and dripped onto the brake parts below the tank. The surface inside is very smooth, so it must be the o-ring. I cleaned it all off and I will watch it for a while. Probably need to try the o-ring update.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I got my o-rings from the O-Ring Store. I ordered two of each of the 4x23 buna-n, the 4.5x23 buna-n and the 4x23 viton. The old o-ring was completely flat on both the inside and outside. It almost looked like a square o-ring instead of a round o-ring. I decided to put the 4x23 buna-n on again. With the old o-ring the cap was completely effortless to remove. With the new o-ring it was tight. I will check it again in a few thousand miles to see how it is doing.


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## Stingray1974 (Mar 14, 2012)

Great post with lots of detail. Caps and tanks can be cause of venting and loss however there may be high temperature causing venting and loss.
My experience with a 2011, 2012 and now 2015 Cruze ECO coolant loss. The dealers replaced water pump, added vent to tank, sealed cowl, replaced tank, replaced cap, and even replaced heater core and still could not fix loss and odor. I noticed all these cars get over 240 deg at times and vent due to pressure. I changed my cooling profile in the ECT program and NO MORE COOLANT LOSS !! Temperature does not get above 228 deg now however I have seen 232deg after turning car off. 
Below is from my post:
[h=2]Coolant odor and loss issue. Problem found.[/h]I had a 2012 Cruze ECO and now a 2015 ECO. This is a great car and with 42 mpg is very efficient. I had the coolant problem with both cars and have worked with dealers and GM about 3 years and still have the problem. Many customers having the same issues that cannot be resolved in 2011 through 2015 model years. 

The sealed coolant system can only lose coolant two ways. 1. By a leak and none have ever been found on my cars and 2. By high temperature allowing gasses to escape out the overflow which appears to be happening. The bulletins and recalls mostly deal with the odor symptom like routing the overflow to the ground and not the root cause of overheating. Obviously they know the tank is venting coolant and by overheating. 

It's difficult for customers to know the car is getting a little hot. In fact you have to monitor the OBD11 data to see it overheats because the gauge only goes up to about midway at 190 deg F and even if temperature goes over 240 deg F the gauge does not move further. I have noticed high temperature above 240 deg F in some circumstances that allows boiling, odor and coolant loss. This can happen in the winter and summer both and loss is 4-8 ounces at every oil change.

I looked at the cooling program and it shows a 194 deg mode and a 221 deg mode. The 221 deg mode algorithm does not respond until temperature gets hot in a couple torque modes. The 221 mode is different from the 194 mode and other cars I have looked at. I proposed a program change to prevent this overheat condition and the cause of the odor and fluid loss. Unfortunately I am still waiting on GM to fix the problem, they said if I make the change it will void my warranty.

Please let me know if you have coolant loss/odor and what your thoughts are. I have worked with Dealer, Manager, District Manager, GM Customer Care, Corporate Office and others and still trying to get this fixed and to help them identify the root cause so they can fix this problem for other customers.

This is ECT Program



Here is proposed Program
​


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Great info Singray! A couple questions:

1. Did you notice any change in how the car runs, particularly under boost in high ambient temps?
2. Did your check the ignition maps to see if there are any temperature related changes as a result of slightly lowering the coolant temperature?


The reason I ask is, I've noticed my car runs very well right up until about the point where the engine temp maxes out (a minute or two after the gauge gets into its happy place). After that, when it's warm out, I notice some slight inconsistency in power delivery, and only from time to time. The feeling is that the ignition advance is fluctuating, and I know there's lots of talk about "phantom knock" where the engine just seems to pull timing on a regular basis under load. Just wondering if dropping the peak coolant temps slightly has any effect on this?


If there's coolant boiling somewhere, particularly in the head, this could be a source of knock.


I also noticed there are two positions for the relief spring in the coolant cap, the lighter of the two being where it's set on our cars. I wonder if stepping up to the higher spring load in the cap would keep the coolant from boiling (if that's the issue)? I hesitate to simply try it out since I'm not sure what the higher setting is on the cap. Stock is 20 psi, if the higher setting is only 22-25 psi or thereabouts it's probably OK, but if it's higher than that I wouldn't want to subject the cooling system to those high pressures.


If you have another thread where this is being discussed, please direct me to it and we can continue there.

EDIT: Found it:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/6-ne...74-coolant-odor-loss-issue-problem-found.html


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## cufarmer (Oct 16, 2014)

I have been dealing with this venting issue for a while. First it emptied the tank to the point that it got an air pocket somewhere in the cooling system. At the time, I thought the surge tank ruptured. I Bought a Dorman tank to replace it on the side of the road. Bleeding air off was never quite successful (in part due to steep grade of driveway). However, I did get a good couple of weeks of running before being back in the same boat.
A $124 towing fee after the needle suddenly pegged on the highway at 75 MPH, shutting me down to extreme limp mode (idle) caused me to apply 'Old School' thinking to the problem, wasting $74.99 on a thermostat assembly. Four hour of labor later, on inconsistent grade, I managed to get the thermostat installed and the system bled of most of the air (I thought). That was a week ago.
Yesterday my son borrowed the car. Knowing (I thought) that there was still air in the system (how there could be, I didn't know), I had him check the coolant level before venturing out more than two miles. Obvious signs that he had been following my instructions popped up last night while on a curbed non-shoulder stretch of feeder road that had no driveways or side streets for a mile. Again, I ended up in schloe-mo. Once safely off the feeder road, I opened the hood to find the surge tank cap had been removed and not replaced. Again, hours of bleeding and short on fluid (or a place to get it at 3 AM), I had almost resigned to calling for a tow. 6 AM rolled around and Dexcool became available. I baby'd the thing home. 
Today I discover this **** thread...been here forever...which could have saved me a lot of headache.

Question: The dorman tank is venting. Has it been determined if it uses the same size o-ring as the OEM tank?


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## danz90 (Jul 8, 2016)

anyone experiencing coolant loss due to the water outlet housing leaking?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

danz90 said:


> anyone experiencing coolant loss due to the water outlet housing leaking?


We've had reports of leaks at the water outlet. As far as I know they have all be actual cracks in the housing. Note there is a new design so you'll need to replace the hoses that connect there as well.


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## cufarmer (Oct 16, 2014)

I ordered the N70 o-ring (4.5mm) and it seems to have stopped the problem where coolant was boiling and vapor was escaping.
Tank appears to be holding pressure and I have not had to add coolant since. FYI, tank is a Dorman part.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

cufarmer said:


> I ordered the N70 o-ring (4.5mm) and it seems to have stopped the problem where coolant was boiling and vapor was escaping.
> Tank appears to be holding pressure and I have not had to add coolant since. FYI, tank is a Dorman part.


This is proof that this is a design flaw and not a general manufacturing issue. Management's assumption that an o-ring can hold pressure in all scenarios is what destroyed the Challenger in 1986.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

cufarmer-

Does a standard cap fit the dorman tank, or do they have their own cap design? I believe there tanks are sold with the cap, and with some of their products they redesign the cap as well.

I've been going through 1 ring every year. If I ever have to replace the tank, I'm thinking Dorman for this, vs. taking another shot with OEM.


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## Nitram (Sep 11, 2013)

I had the severe bubbling coolant in the reservoir after the engine was turned off (temperature gauge and all else were fine during running). I discovered that my reservoir throat had a burr (distortion) that made anyone (i.e. my GM mechanic today) think that the cap was at its bottom of travel/tightening. NOT SO. Turning the cap past this false stop gave me 3 more turns before the O-ring was engaged and sealed -- BUBBLING COOLANT PROBLEM GONE!! Caution - never remove the cap when the coolant is hot. Thanks all for focusing me onto the reservoir cap and throat.


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## Jimscozz (Jul 24, 2016)

Is there a replacement o-ring for the coolant overflow tube from the engine to resuvare tank?
Jim. 1.4 turo 2012 LT/RS


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## 888 (Jan 14, 2014)

I got my 14 6MT with 20k miles back from the dealer yesterday, I think this is the third visit for coolant loss. Last time, it was the water pump and I got the burning coolant smell. 

This time they had it hooked up to pressure three or four different times over nights and weekends, after driving and while cold, and could not get it to leak. 

Based on this thread and the fact the cap is where the pressure was connected, I suggested they replace the cap and we'll see what that brings to the party. He did mention that the parts department has been going though a lot of caps (or maybe cap O rings), and he did not know that previously. 

We have a 6 hour drive ahead of us this weekend so that will give it a chance to show me if the cap fixed it. I'll check the coolant reservoir surface tomorrow where the cap seals for defects before we take off. 

I asked them what was next if this didn't solve it and they thought head gasket failed in a spot where the oil and coolant couldn't mix. Apparently, the converter burns hot enough that any traces of coolant in the cylinders is burned off before it reaches the end of the tailpipe. Not sure how many HG failures people have seen but hopefully we won't get to that point.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

888 said:


> I got my 14 6MT with 20k miles back from the dealer yesterday, I think this is the third visit for coolant loss. Last time, it was the water pump and I got the burning coolant smell.
> 
> This time they had it hooked up to pressure three or four different times over nights and weekends, after driving and while cold, and could not get it to leak.
> 
> ...


GM has a coolant dye that dries where ever there's a leak. This is how I figured out it was my cap/tank seal.


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## 888 (Jan 14, 2014)

We drove the car around 8 hours on a road trip this weekend after the cap was replaced and the level remained the same. I didn't have time to inspect the surface finish where the cap O ring seals. 

That was a lot more drive time than it usually took to show up before, considering my wife drives maybe 3 miles each way to work. So I'm hopeful the O ring just hardened up and that was behind the problem. if so, I can round up a viton O ring somewhere and it may last longer than the standard NBR.


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## 888 (Jan 14, 2014)

obermd said:


> GM has a coolant dye that dries where ever there's a leak. This is how I figured out it was my cap/tank seal.


I'll keep that in mind if I have more problems. It wasn't suggested by the service guy yet, which is a bit concerning.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

888 said:


> I'll keep that in mind if I have more problems. It wasn't suggested by the service guy yet, which is a bit concerning.


He may not be aware of it.


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## gwsmallwood (Jun 25, 2018)

I'm not sure if I'm having this particular problem or not, but my cap is definitely loose, and a quick inspection showed the flat siding on the O-Ring, so I went ahead and ordered one of the Viton rings.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I've found that using a little glycerin on the o-ring goes a long way to getting these "buna replacement rings" to fit without having to stress the cap when screwing it back on. 

I'm still using the larger Buna ones mentioned in this thread. After lubing the gasket before screwing it down I've now gone 18-20 months without replacing this seal.

The solution works for me, but for some reason I've gone through seals. About one every 12 months or so. 

I'm not sure if this weird problem ever got fixed with latter GEN1 Cruzes. You don't see as much action with these threads as you did when the issue was more prevalent.


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## Phil2 (Nov 22, 2014)

Where can i purchase this O ring?

Phil


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## fyrftr422 (Aug 15, 2012)

This thread looks like it may help solve my coolant loss reappearance. I had sooo many issues with coolant loss, fluid odours in the car, heat loss, etc, etc. Had water pump and heater core replaced while still under warranty, and they put some tape/tar on the drainage tube of the overflow tank. I'm now having coolant boiling in the overflow tank, coolant loss and car overheating, but not regularly. Frustrating when I can't seem to replicate a cooling event to my mechanic. 

I have thought about replacing both the tank and cap, which now seems to be likely culprit.

Anyone ordered these items in Canada? Really don't want to be ad with the ridiculous cross border shipping we now face


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## brent769 (Apr 4, 2013)

Rockauto?


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## fyrftr422 (Aug 15, 2012)

Rockauto isn't Canadian


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Rockauto does ship to Canada competitively. The O-rings we were ordering for the coolant reservoir cap were from a company out of ID If I recall correctly. 

The oring store.com or something like that. 

Also make sure that with the engine cold, and off you remove the white bleeder valve on the passenger side coolant tank near the top. When doing this have the coolant bottle full greater than the plastic welded seam. You'll see fluid pulled in. 

You may have a venting problem.


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## HarleyGTP (Dec 14, 2013)

185K on a cruze diesel and I just started to smell some coolant smell after driving from the engine compartment. I'm going to try these fixes to see if it will mend the problem. Thank you.


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## Drew's Cruze (Jul 31, 2015)

So the wife drove Chicago to Indy - solo - for the first time ever in our 2015 1LT 1.4L Cruze (bought new, currently 35,3xx I think) and sends me this text message:









Just what I wanted to see when I'm at home with the kids, 180 miles away. Luckily we have relatives nearby, and there was easy access to some coolant for the ride home. She made it home safely, and refilled the coolant shortly thereafter. After leaving Indy, the needle never made it past halfway, but upon inspection, I saw there was coolant apparently leaking from the not-quite-accessible water pump, and had gotten on the accessory belt etc., not to mention a fair amount on the garage floor. My '99 Tacoma has not has such issues (knock on wood) so it has taken over family transport duties.

I'm not exactly clear on the warranty status from what I've read here and elsewhere, as we are past our 3/36 bumper to bumper, but still under the 5/60 powertrain warranty. Plus I've read about the extended 10/150 warranty for certain year water pumps. I called a local Chevy dealer who of course not only hadn't heard of Cruze water pump issues but also said there was no special coverage either. No, I won't be taking the car there. It will likely be going back to the dealer of purchase, but they don't have any time open until next Monday.


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## AlCruze (Nov 18, 2019)

HELP PLEASE!!!
I have a 2016 Cruze Limited LT with 118,300+ HW miles. I just got the water pump (I think) and thermostat replaced at the dealer, oh and the purge valve. It was running like a dream. I got my oil changed and of course, they bring up more work that needs to be done (that wasn't mentioned previously). One service, in particular, was the coolant reservoir needs to be replaced (but no rush, his words), that was a week ago. I just drove 50+ miles home from work, stopped to get gas and BOOM, WHITE SMOKE BILLOWING FROM MY HOOD. I immediately pull over and pop the hood, COOLANT EVERYWHERE! I have no clue what happened, or what to do now except take it back to the dealer.


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## BLWizzRanger (Dec 19, 2019)

This is a great thread in identifying a problem and seeing the solutions to help fix it. Too bad my daughter's Cruze has the issue. Long story short, I:

a. Replaced the O-ring on the cap (saw yellowish crust on the cap)
b. Didn't see a decrease in the reservoir's fluid level after getting the Cruze up to operating speed 
c. Didn't notice any leaks

So after my test run, the reservoir's level didn't change. I thought it would be less but, maybe I didn't run it long enough to make that difference. Anyways, after the test run and looking at the engine I noticed the sound where it seems like air and fluid are exchanging places.This lasted for over 3 or 4 minutes after turning the car off. I have a video that I can post, but, this site won't allow links in first posts. However, my phone was placed between the fan and engine and more toward the driver's side. I can only assume that I need to bleed off the air in the cooling system and will do so. But, could this sound be coming from any other areas/systems in my engine bay and/or is this sound normal?

Thanks in advance.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

BLWizzRanger said:


> This is a great thread in identifying a problem and seeing the solutions to help fix it. Too bad my daughter's Cruze has the issue. Long story short, I:
> 
> a. Replaced the O-ring on the cap (saw yellowish crust on the cap)
> b. Didn't see a decrease in the reservoir's fluid level after getting the Cruze up to operating speed
> ...


Welcome Aboard!

Post some more threads and put your video on YouTube and post that link here.

Start by introducing yourself and your Cruze here.


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## BLWizzRanger (Dec 19, 2019)

Thanks *Blasirl*
Here is the link of the gurgling sound my Cruze is making.

https://youtu.be/PH6bX8ONq14


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

BLWizzRanger said:


> Thanks *Blasirl*
> Here is the link of the gurgling sound my Cruze is making.
> 
> https://youtu.be/PH6bX8ONq14


Use the video icon to post a video, it will show the YouTube screen in your post instead of a link. This one seems to be broken. Also use @BLWizzRanger instead of copying the name - works as a pager instead of a link to me.


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## BLWizzRanger (Dec 19, 2019)

I will try this again... Thanks.

Cruze Sounds


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## Ranscapture (Jun 20, 2013)

Blue Angel said:


> I hope this thread helps some people rid their cars of coolant odors. Remember also that the Cruze water pump is a popular source of leaks and is now covered under an extended 10yr warranty.


Hi, please tell me more about this, I’ve had my water pump replaced twice and the third is leaking. Since my Cruze is only 7 years old, can I just go into Chevy and have it replaced for free? My second pump was installed from a different shop because I thought I was out of warranty. But it is still an oem pump, I don’t have to tell that to the dealership about that. Thanks!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Ranscapture said:


> Hi, please tell me more about this, I’ve had my water pump replaced twice and the third is leaking. Since my Cruze is only 7 years old, can I just go into Chevy and have it replaced for free? My second pump was installed from a different shop because I thought I was out of warranty. But it is still an oem pump, I don’t have to tell that to the dealership about that. Thanks!


*Service Bulletin - NHTSA*


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## gt_cristian (Apr 7, 2012)

Hi everyone,

My wife purchased a 2020 Trax LS back in March and I looked at the coolant tank. It is different than the one on the 1st Gen Cruze, same PSI rating and one thing I noticed, that surge tank does not have that little hole on the side like the Cruze does (red arrow below). I was always under the impression that my coolant smell was coming from coolant escaping through there constantly. So what would be the purpose of that little opening if the TRAX doesn't have it for the same engine? What would happen if we were to seal it off?









Thank you!


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## WiseManWhite (Aug 10, 2013)

I purchased the M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5) from Amazon. Is that the incorrect size? I wasn't able to slide it directly underneath base the of cap because it seems too small. 

I filled up coolant tank after it was almost completely empty. Car didn't give me a warning. Drove 4 hours and it's already half empty again.

Link: M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Sent from my WP5 using Tapatalk


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

WiseManWhite said:


> I purchased the M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5) from Amazon. Is that the incorrect size? I wasn't able to slide it directly underneath base the of cap because it seems too small.
> 
> I filled up coolant tank after it was almost completely empty. Car didn't give me a warning. Drove 4 hours and it's already half empty again.
> 
> ...


You may have other issues. Is your engine bay clean? Is there any evidence of leaks? Where if so?

These are three links in this thread that explain about the o-ring









FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir


That was me. It took less than a minute for the dye to start flowing back into the coolant tank.




www.cruzetalk.com













FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir


You don't need to worry about bleeding the cooling system unless you think you have air in it. Just taking the cap off and replacing it is fine, no worries there. As far as the high coolant level, I wouldn't worry about it. If you see signs of venting and the fluid is too high, that's...




www.cruzetalk.com













FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir


Many members are experiencing coolant loss over time and venting through the reservoir (surge tank) cap. Symptoms include coolant loss and coolant odors both outside and inside the car. The reservoir vent channel it this plastic piece on the left side of the cap: If your cap is venting you...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## 916LTZCRZ (Nov 13, 2019)

been having boiling coolant issues lately no engine overheat thinkdiag says coolant is 208C/226F range
just looked under hood the hose going to the surge tank and to the top of the water outlet the part that sits on top of the outlet doesnt have the plastic fittings on top its just the hose connected to the plastic tied on by a clamp im not sure if this is the original model but i think a mechanic may have broke it and quick fixed it without telling me.


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## 916LTZCRZ (Nov 13, 2019)

this is what mine looks like someone did this to mine i would know if i made a fix like this. hasnt leaked but i dont know if the device that sits on top regulates coolant flow back to the surge tank. i feel my tank could be warped or bad.Its my second tank has about 80,0000 miles of use on it replaced the cap 2 months ago just started leaking a couple weeks ago out the overflow side. I think its time for a new tank and maybe those o rings thinking of purchasing the 4mm and 4.5


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

916LTZCRZ said:


> View attachment 295177
> 
> 
> this is what mine looks like someone did this to mine i would know if i made a fix like this. hasnt leaked but i dont know if the device that sits on top regulates coolant flow back to the surge tank. i feel my tank could be warped or bad.Its my second tank has about 80,0000 miles of use on it replaced the cap 2 months ago just started leaking a couple weeks ago out the overflow side. I think its time for a new tank and maybe those o rings thinking of purchasing the 4mm and 4.5


The picture is too small.


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## 916LTZCRZ (Nov 13, 2019)

Blasirl said:


> The picture is too small.


I figured it out. I put a dorman reservoir hose on it. Replaced with new oem part for peace of mind knowing oem is on the finicky coolant system. Found the leak on my reservoir tank. It was right on the inside portion of the tip sticking out for hose. It started to hairline crack on the inside then it finally popped and exposed bubbles coming out of it. Dorman tank so it already had the metal tabs in it but it was 80,000 miles old it was warped and time for new one. I put new cap on old reservoir from a new Dorman tank and there was so much play when seated on old tank. The boiling/venting problem went away as soon as new tank was installed


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Glad you found the issue. That and most of the other cooling issues are well documented here on the forum. I would keep an eye on the system for a while as usually there is collateral damage to other connecting parts when the system is messed with.


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## Bluiis1103 (7 mo ago)

Blue Angel said:


> Many members are experiencing coolant loss over time and venting through the reservoir (surge tank) cap. Symptoms include coolant loss and coolant odors both outside and inside the car.
> 
> The reservoir vent channel it this plastic piece on the left side of the cap:
> 
> ...


This might be one of my issues, although I have no idea what the true problem is. I have a 2016 Cruze 1.4L LT. It started over a year ago when my car first overheated. Found a leak in the radiator upper inlet coolant bypass hose. Fixed that. Still leaked. The housing itself was cracked. Replaced that. My dad, when connecting the hoses back, unknowingly tightened one too tight. Drove for a day, overheated again. Found the he had broken the end of the plastic into the hose. Fixed that. After that, it has continually overheated. Slowly at first, maybe every two or three weeks. Then every week, then everyday. Took it to a mechanic. He replaced the radiator, the thermostat, the water pump, and hoses. Drove it for about a week, maybe two, and it overheated again! Took it back to the mechanic, and all he had to say was “get rid of it. Terrible car. I could look at it for you, but I’ll guarantee you’ll be back next month. So I’ve babied it since then. At first, I could drive it maybe 3 - 4 days without it over heating, then boom, it overheats again. Losing coolant. But I can find no leaks. Then it will overheat everyday on short trips, maybe 5 miles. Then it won’t overheat for 3 - 4 days….running the air conditioner as well. Then I’ll make a short trip, maybe a mile, and it over heats again! Noticed a leak this time. The reservoir tank had a crack in the bottom, so I replaced that. Still overheated. I then replaced one of the sensors. Still overheated. Took to the auto parts store and had them run a diagnostics check. Came up with two errors. One was insufficient coolant flow, the other was a sensor was stuck at -40 degrees, and had high voltage. Herein lies the relation to your post. I read that not bleeding the radiator may cause it to overheat. So as I’m taking the cap off the tank, I noticed the o ring on the cap, the big one, was really loose and the small one was almost flat. This is a brand new tank. So I got the old cap out and looked at it. It’s o rings looked perfectly sized. So I switched them. Not only did doing both of those things not stop the overheating problem, it is worse now. I noticed in the link about the caps that the o rings in the good cap in the photo looked loose, just like my new one. Is that how they’re supposed to fit? I saw tonight when I got home it was losing water from that vent on the top of the tank. I’m at my wits end as to what to fix next. Having the other sensor replaced tomorrow, but somehow don’t think that’s the problem. My car runs smooth, idles good, and the oil is clear. What, in your opinion, should be my next step?


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## grtpumpkin (Nov 25, 2016)

To Blue angel. The links in post 116 are not working. I'm not able to find the specific o rings you linked to.
Do you have a part number?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

grtpumpkin said:


> To Blue angel. The links in post 116 are not working. I'm not able to find the specific o rings you linked to.
> Do you have a part number?


The OP has not been online here since May of 2021 so it may be a long wait. Also it would be better to use the reply button as I did to you or to at least use the pager function by typing *@Blue Angel*

I see the link in this post: FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir has died, but there is another one here: FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir that me be what you are looking for.


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