# Help No Compression 2014



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

If you believe there is no compression you should check for DTCs, and if possible check the data stream for proper fuel pressure. After that a compression check, whether relative tested electrically or physically with gauges is next.


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## garyr (Aug 11, 2019)

hello
Here are the codes I came up with. I should state here that the enjine lite has been on for a while. It was pulling a DEF sensor code. Already had the tank replaced once and figured that it needs it again. 
www.obd-codes.com
P011B-00 Coolant / Air Temperature Correlation P011B Engine Coolant Temperature/Intake Air Temperature Correlation
P053A-00 Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Control Circuit /Open P053A Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Control Circuit /Open
P2199-00 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1/2 Correlation P2199 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1/2 Correlation
P21DD-00 DTC History status 
P2453 Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance P2453 Diesel Particulate Filter Pressure Sensor A Circuit Range Performance
By sounding like it has no compression, it sounds like a small block chevy with all spark plugs removed without the hiss.
I am going to try to check the belt timing marks now. I gather that is a project.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

As Maven said, perform a compression test. If you actually don't have compression, you about have to tear the engine down and figure out why.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

The belt may look like it's there and in good shape but it isn't. 

Look at the timing belt while someone is cranking the motor. If it don't move. It's broke.

It's the #1 reason a motor free spins. 

Course, these days. I guess it could be anything.


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## garyr (Aug 11, 2019)

garyr said:


> Hello
> Gary from Ohio here
> 2014 cruze diesel 78,000 miles maybe
> Always heated garage kept.
> ...


????????????????
Me again
Is it possible for the belt to jump time if all of the tensioners and idlers and the belt
are all nice and tight and functioning???
I don't Think So
Comments??


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I think we've actually seen it before - the belt can stretch over time and jump a tooth or two. That said, you're below the change interval for the timing belt, so I'd be surprised if it did that, as I recall those cars were past the change interval.

As mentioned above, I think it's worth pulling the inspection cover off the cam gears and watching the timing belt as someone turns the engine over. But as others have said, I think you need to run a compression test to confirm if it's truly an issue - it may not be. I presume those codes were not there before the engine turned itself off?


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

I had a similar situation with my 2015 once, but it was following a partial intake cleaning. Trying to do some cleaning without a full tear down.. I cleaned the throttle valve area using a solvent then blew out the intake extensively to clear out any residual solvent such that it would not be a factor to the next start. Much to my surprise when it was all put together it not only didn't start right away, it sounded as you described.. like no compression and minimal starter load turning the engine.. it was quite alarming. 

After several tries, it eventually did start, but I had it hooked up to another battery and let some time between start attempts to let the starter cool off. 

I can only guess at the what caused this, I can't be sure, but I would guess chunks of crud/carbon found there way to the intake valves and when opened, then closed the crud was sufficient to to prevent the valve from closing completely and therefor prevented compression, and thus the condition. Even more vital for a diesel is compression. 

If your car has not had any intake cleaning at your miles, you have massive crud built up in your intake. My crud was at a mere 45K miles, you hare well beyond that already. 

As to timing belt, here is my advice on that.. if you think a timing belt failure is possible, DO NOT continue to crank the engine! If it slipped a few teeth and you have not already damaged the engine, you are lucky, but if you do have a timing belt issue, and keep cranking it you could eventually do severe engine damage, but I don't think you have a timing belt issue at 78K miles.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Ah yes - you make a very good point...the amount of **** usually found in the throttle valve and/or the EGR valve is astonishing. That said, it would be odd for it to start...and then die, usually they lead to a complete no-start situation - but anything is possible, knowing just how bad it gets.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> Ah yes - you make a very good point...the amount of **** usually found in the throttle valve and/or the EGR valve is astonishing. That said, it would be odd for it to start...and then die, usually they lead to a complete no-start situation - but anything is possible, knowing just how bad it gets.


You just gave me another idea, and perhaps a more likely cause... 

Does the EGR open up a bit to help warm up the engine? I think it does, and perhaps the EGR opened up a bit, perhaps too much and caused a stall and thus got stuck open... We do know people have had a no start situation from a stuck open EGR, but that does not explain the appearant loss of compression/starter load.


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## garyr (Aug 11, 2019)

Well you all have given me a lot to chew on. 
Could not see anything wrong with the timing belt so I blew it all out and buttoned it back up.
I took #2 glow plug out and held a magic marker in the hole,(it seemed to block the opening) ,while I turned the engine over a couple revolutions. and no compression. Then I worked a finger down in there and after another couple revolutions it started to have compression. I do not have a tester. Put it all back together but haven't tried to start it yet. Did not have an answer yet.
The throttle body fellow got me thinking so I looked at a youtube video on cleaning cruze throttle bodies and the crud
buildup and that is next on my list. When I figure out where the EGR valve is I should look at it too. If there is an EGR valve with the DEF and all.
Diesels are a new bird for me although I have owned a few.
Thanks for all your input. I will let you know as/if it progresses.
Gary


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Itll still try and turn over with a stuck EGR and/or throttle valve.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

MRO1791 said:


> You just gave me another idea, and perhaps a more likely cause...
> 
> Does the EGR open up a bit to help warm up the engine? I think it does, and perhaps the EGR opened up a bit, perhaps too much and caused a stall and thus got stuck open... We do know people have had a no start situation from a stuck open EGR, but that does not explain the appearant loss of compression/starter load.


The only time the EGR is closed is during part of a Regen and some high throttle.

The EGR is super critical for proper heat management. Warming up and after.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

If there's damage. It's going to happen on the first revolution. What else could happen besides valves and pistons on a diesel?



MRO1791 said:


> I had a similar situation with my 2015 once, but it was following a partial intake cleaning. Trying to do some cleaning without a full tear down.. I cleaned the throttle valve area using a solvent then blew out the intake extensively to clear out any residual solvent such that it would not be a factor to the next start. Much to my surprise when it was all put together it not only didn't start right away, it sounded as you described.. like no compression and minimal starter load turning the engine.. it was quite alarming.
> 
> After several tries, it eventually did start, but I had it hooked up to another battery and let some time between start attempts to let the starter cool off.
> 
> ...


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

According to this thread. It's an interference motor.









Diesel Timing Belt / (Non)Interference Engine &amp...


Does anyone know if this engine is interference or non-interference? It has relieved pistons so I thought it would be non-interference, but I've found conflicting information. Also Chevy says the timing belt, water pump and other components have to be replaced at 97,000 miles or every 10...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

garyr said:


> Well you all have given me a lot to chew on.
> Could not see anything wrong with the timing belt so I blew it all out and buttoned it back up.
> I took #2 glow plug out and held a magic marker in the hole,(it seemed to block the opening) ,while I turned the engine over a couple revolutions. and no compression. Then I worked a finger down in there and after another couple revolutions it started to have compression. I do not have a tester. Put it all back together but haven't tried to start it yet. Did not have an answer yet.
> The throttle body fellow got me thinking so I looked at a youtube video on cleaning cruze throttle bodies and the crud
> ...


@Rivergoer usually posts a second thread related to that - but here's mine, which'll show you where it's at:








My EGR/Throttle Plate Experience


So, as I had mentioned in the couple of recent threads about cleaning the throttle plate and EGR valve, I wanted to check ours and clean if needed to combat some running/starting issues my wife has been encountering in the past months. I started at about 8PM, so it was pretty dark, but that...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## garyr (Aug 11, 2019)

Ok, Before the no start on Saturday the car ran perfectly except a couple weeks ago
in town at around 1500rpm in 4th gear it started lugging or kinds jerky. 
I took the throttle body off today and cleaned it. I really feel bad because it is ugly in there.
It looks like the intake opening is wayyyy restricted by at least 20%. see photo's if it will allow me to post.
I feel bad because I now am obligated to remove and clean the intake manifold at some point. 
Should look at the EGR valve. 
Came in to get cleaned up then I will try to start.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

garyr said:


> Ok, Before the no start on Saturday the car ran perfectly except a couple weeks ago
> in town at around 1500rpm in 4th gear it started lugging or kinds jerky.
> I took the throttle body off today and cleaned it. I really feel bad because it is ugly in there.
> It looks like the intake opening is wayyyy restricted by at least 20%. see photo's if it will allow me to post.
> ...


That is HORRIBLE. I haven't seen a throttle body look like that in a long time.


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## garyr (Aug 11, 2019)

All dexos 2 oil, filters and DEF fluid are all bought from dealer and changed within 10% of due times ALWAYS, but I am the second owner.
Sticking my finger back into the inlet tube, pre throttle body, it is all a black oily film..
I wonder if the turbo has a leak or something...When I unhooked the air box there was a single small stream of motor oil 
running outward from the turbo venturi. I mean like only a drop that coursed outward.
The only thing is It ran perfectly fine until Saturday.
I was in our heated garage thankfully but still ??
I am going to look at the vehicle warranty. and see about that. Dealers scare me.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

garyr said:


> All dexos 2 oil, filters and DEF fluid are all bought from dealer and changed within 10% of due times ALWAYS, but I am the second owner.
> Sticking my finger back into the inlet tube, pre throttle body, it is all a black oily film..
> I wonder if the turbo has a leak or something...When I unhooked the air box there was a single small stream of motor oil
> running outward from the turbo venturi. I mean like only a drop that coursed outward.
> ...


What's 10% of due times mean?
Knowledge is power. If the dealer scares you, either find a new dealer or learn enough about your vehicle to be confident enough to call the dealer on their BS if they try to give you some.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

The oily film you're seeing pre-throttle plate is normal...and also what mixes with the EGR (and thus, soot) to create all...that.

I make it a point to clean the throttle plate and EGR valve roughly every 40-45k miles or so. The intake, though...mine looks like that, and I don't see an easy way to clean it - _especially_ the valves inside the runners.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

garyr said:


> Ok, Before the no start on Saturday the car ran perfectly except a couple weeks ago
> in town at around 1500rpm in 4th gear it started lugging or kinds jerky.
> I took the throttle body off today and cleaned it. I really feel bad because it is ugly in there.
> It looks like the intake opening is wayyyy restricted by at least 20%. see photo's if it will allow me to post.
> ...


Yep. that is what it does. It's normal thanks to the heavy flow of EGR that mixes with a bit of oil from the turbo seals and then you get that thick crud. All modern diesels with EGR do this. Ironically a simialar issue is happening to the GDI (gas direct injection) engines as well, they are getting big deposits in the intake and on the intake valves, since no gasoline is going through the intake, which normally helps keep it clean, they are getting crud in the intake and it requires a deep cleaning and tear down, just like we are seeing with the Diesels. On my Cummins I'm doing the 60K oil breather filter change, and some other work including a wiring harness. As part of that I pulled the EGR, and it was soot stacked in one of 2 ports at almost 50% blocked. When I get a chance I'll try to get a picture to share. What you are seeing is the new normal for these engines.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

MRO1791 said:


> Ironically a simialar issue is happening to the GDI (gas direct injection) engines as well, they are getting big deposits in the intake and on the intake valves, since no gasoline is going through the intake, which normally helps keep it clean, they are getting crud in the intake and it requires a deep cleaning and tear down, just like we are seeing with the Diesels.


Even more ironically: they're getting particulate filters in Europe, and will likely be here soon. Everyone can then feel our pain!


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## garyr (Aug 11, 2019)

Good Morning All
I finally got her started.
Tuesday evening I got in and hooked up the scanner and
cleared the codes. I was sitting there and said to myself Ahhh why not,
so I started cranking her like a kid who's car stalled on the way to 
Lovers lane and she started to hit a few times and then a few more 
and then the battery died.
Put her on the charger overnight and piggied another battery onto it in
the morning and after cranking it for wayyyy too long she took off. Putt putt putt
and then took ahold.
The man door in the garage was closed but the overhead door was open. Let
her run for maybe 5 minutes clearing out any gunk or whatever. Noticed a hesitation on accelleration;
maybe just because I now know the restriction is there. When I shut it 
down and got out there was a really odd odor that is not normal auto smell. I figured it is the ammonia burning
off.. No smoke, just that smell. The exhaust stops everything.
Anyway it is running and the only thing I can figure is that when I started it the other day without the glow plugs
the motor rumbled when it first started maybe knocking loose some of that junk which caught in the valves. losing compression. Removing and cleaning the intake manifold is way up there on my to do list.
Since I have you here:
We also have an 06 Sprinter 2500 van conversion. When starting it as soon as the first cylinder hits the starter disengages. Is that normal for a Mercedes? Shure is frustrating when it is cold out there.
Thanks for all of the input,
Happy New Year, Gary


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

So what was the result post-cleaning? Still no-start or now all good?

Edit: Didn’t see the last post. EGR is as EGR does. Unfortunately periodic cleaning is a maintenance item for diesels.


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