# I Was Given These!



## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

my buddy gave me his 2 12" kicker comps in a box and his infinity reference 310a amp....

i have the added pioneer stereo so how do i set this up?

i was thinking a sub install kit plus a line out converter?

extreme revolution your input is more than welcome!

also the rubber around the edges has seen better days! is there something to fix these?















AMP:

Infinity 310A Monoblock Car Amplifier, Power Amp


cant find the info for the subs  can someone tell me?


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

pull one out of the box and look at the bottom of the magnet. What is the ohm rating?


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

ill check tomorrow , but how will i set these up? i also plan on buying the amp level control remote


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Well it depends on if they are 8ohm or 4ohm, and if they are Dual VC or Single VC. When you look at the ohm rating, check and see if they have 2 or 4 wire terminals.

Here is an example of wiring for a 4ohm Dual Voice Coil to mono block AMP (2ohm load):








Since this system has been run together already, I would assume the subs are wired as they need to be for the AMP, already.
As for wiring into the stereo, I have not looked into that yet on my Cruze, so I really am not much help there. But there is a good How-To on it, assuming the non-splicing route would provide enough for this AMP


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## s0duva02 (Jun 17, 2013)

for installation of extra speakers and amp on stock radio check this youtube video out...i didnt record it, just stumbled across it on youtube2012 chevy cruze amp install with stock radio - YouTube


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

You will need a gm pac harness I'm looking for the part number so you can run RCAs from your stock radio to your amp Amazon has the best price.

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Here's a link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M4WHHE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

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## goinovr (May 6, 2013)

The PAC is the AAGM-44. You can pick it up at tigerdirect.com pretty cheap right now. 

The speakers are most likely 4ohm but might be the 2ohm version. Not sure why anyone would intentionally put 8ohm speakers in a mobile audio setup. Takes twice as much power to deliver the same performance of 4ohm speakers.


No pic for verification but this is most likely the manual for them...You'll have to verify the model on the magnet. 

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2003Comp.pdf


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

thanks alot for the input guys! i will check the sub tomorrow , and also the links you have posted. the subs, box and amp have been toghter since day one so everything should be ready inside the box. 

so this gm harnees will be plug and play with the stereo. so does that mean that i do not need to buy the remote for the amp?

so then all i need is :

-gm pac harness
-sub install kit

am i missing anything?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Ru5ty said:


> thanks alot for the input guys! i will check the sub tomorrow , and also the links you have posted. the subs, box and amp have been toghter since day one so everything should be ready inside the box.
> 
> so this gm harnees will be plug and play with the stereo. so does that mean that i do not need to buy the remote for the amp?
> 
> ...


Remote for amp, are you talking about the ability to adjust the bass level then no you wouldn't need it. 

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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

goinovr said:


> The speakers are most likely 4ohm but might be the 2ohm version. Not sure why anyone would intentionally put 8ohm speakers in a mobile audio setup. Takes twice as much power to deliver the same performance of 4ohm speakers.


They did not come in a 2ohm model, they are 4ohm or 8ohm, you have to wire them up to get 2ohm. The reason for 8ohm is you can wire them to a mono block in 4ohm using 2 subs. If you wire 2 4ohm subs to a mono block you get 2ohm, which a lot of AMPs could not handle (unless you spent top $) back when these were originally released.



goinovr said:


> No pic for verification but this is most likely the manual for them...You'll have to verify the model on the magnet.
> 
> http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2003Comp.pdf


His are older than this model, you can tell by the logo on the cone. The manual will be difficult to find as they are such an older model (think 2000 or maybe a little older)


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

so now the question is how to plug them , my amp 2 left and right output's , or should i plug them in like the picture that dragonsys had put up on here? the car has 2 6x9s so would it not make sense to plug the subs in the same way? or is it not worh it? or is it extra work for nothing. also i want this to be as clean as possible and be quick to remove in case i need more storage again.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Ru5ty said:


> so now the question is how to plug them , my amp 2 left and right output's , or should i plug them in like the picture that dragonsys had put up on here? the car has 2 6x9s so would it not make sense to plug the subs in the same way? or is it not worh it? or is it extra work for nothing. also i want this to be as clean as possible and be quick to remove in case i need more storage again.


IMO I would not connect the 6x9's to the same AMP as the subs. Also, if this AMP has 4 outputs (2 left & 2 right) then the subs are probably not wired together, unless they are bridged on the AMP. If they are Dual VC and 4ohm then I would suggest this wiring, to get a 2ohm load and the most "bang":










If they are Single VC then you need to use this, and get a 4ohm load:










This is the link I am pulling the images form if you want to see the options:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-FvAXvdOgoRE/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

for a clean disconnect, you can always mount the amp to the rear deck or back of the rear seats and then just disconnect the speaker wire form the sub box and pull the box out, leaving the amp in place. Use some twist ties to keep the speaker wire up and out of the way while the box is removed.


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

thanks again for your help. i am going for sound quailty not quantity. i dont want to be the guy with the cruze that vibrates and anoys people , i just want better quailty bass. thats the only reason why i accepted them. the 6x9 are nice but now that i have these subs , i want to see what everyone els on this fourm is talking about in regars to how bad the 6x9 are compared to a real woofer.


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

seems to me that they are 8 oms singe voice coil 

2 12" kicker comp subs for sale


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Well, a 6x9 is a real woofer, it just is not a sub-woofer. They are good for mid bass, not much else, so basically a filler for the subs. I do not know much about the stock 6x9's as my Cruze only has 6 speakers... but I doubt they could handle the bass being put out by the AMP. If you want to AMP the stock speakers pick up a decent (albeit not expensive) mid range AMP.

As for quality, those subs will sound good at both 2ohm & 4ohm, 2ohm will just hit much harder, but at only about 300 watts on the AMP @ 2ohm (~ 120 watt @ 4ohm), they won't be overly loud, and you can always add some dynamat to the trunk lid to help with rattle. But they must be Dual VC in order to run 2ohm and sound good. If yo utry to run Single VC Comps in 2ohm they will not have good quality.

I have a single 10" CVR running 400 watts @ 2 ohm (not in the Cruze though) and it is enough bass to accent the music, but not so much that it rattles the heck out of everyone.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Ru5ty said:


> seems to me that they are 8 oms singe voice coil
> 
> 2 12" kicker comp subs for sale


They came in both 4ohm & 8ohm configurations and had the option for Dual or Single VC, so yo really have to look at your specific subs to find out. Unless those you linked are your subs... if they are then you will need to use this setup:









this will give you a 4ohm load which will only be about 120 watts with that amp, which might be a good start, not bad for free


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

ill check tomorrow and post pics of the rear and how they are hooked up and we can proceed from there!


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## goinovr (May 6, 2013)

I knew they were old. Just wasn't sure when Kicker changed the logo. The Comp's I was looking at only came in 2 or 4ohm loads. Still wouldn't recommend an 8ohm speaker. 



I ran Soundstream back in the day (90's) so I never worried about dropping amps down too far.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

goinovr said:


> I knew they were old. Just wasn't sure when Kicker changed the logo. The Comp's I was looking at only came in 2 or 4ohm loads. Still wouldn't recommend an 8ohm speaker.
> 
> 
> 
> I ran Soundstream back in the day (90's) so I never worried about dropping amps down too far.


I believe the Kicker logo changed around 2001 or 2002, the cone on the Comps changed around the same time. I used to have a Soundstream Mids/Highs AMP, never used their subs. It was a great AMP, and was not very expensive either.

8ohm isn't too bad as long as you bridge it to 4ohm. If running the subs in 8ohm then the output from the AMP is around 70-80 watts, and it would not add much of anything to the stereo, really. Not to mention how underpowered the aubs would be...


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

There's nothing wrong with 8-ohm drivers as long as you have the power you need, which is not hard to get these days. I run two 8-ohm 18" subwoofers, wired down to a 4 ohm resistance to a Boston Acoustics GT-2300 that produces 1000W RMS CEA certified at a 4 ohm resistance. No issues there. 

My tweeters are 8-ohm drivers, but that doesn't really matter since they won't ever use more than 10W of power anyway no matter how loud I crank up the music (within my own tolerance for loudness of course, which is fairly high given I'm using two 18" subs...). 

Furthermore, the reduced resistance of 8-ohm drivers over 4-ohm drivers also reduces the moving mass of the subwoofer, thus improving the sound quality by a marginal amount. With regard to the Peavey Low Rider subwoofers I'm using, the 8-ohm version has a notably lower Qts and a 10% lower moving mass than the 4-ohm version.

Also note that generally speaking, a doubling in impedance often doesn't cause a halving in power output. Typical behavior of Class-D and Class-AB amplifiers is such that you have slightly higher than half the amount of power with a doubling in impedance. An amplifier that produces 1000W @ a 2 ohm resistance will produce closer to 600W @ a 4 ohm resistance, and 350-400W @ an 8 ohm resistance. 

Lastly, most subwoofers will exceed their mechanical limit of excursion in a well-designed sealed enclosure long before they reach their thermal power handling (rated as watts RMS on the subwoofer's label). The power rating of a subwoofer is far more important when installed in a vented enclosure due to the vent (aka port) strongly controlling the excursion of the subwoofer near the tuning frequency. This behavior not only allows one to apply more power to the subwoofer before it reaches it's mechanical excursion limit, but also reduces the subwoofer's ability to vent and dissipate heat through the subwoofer's vented pole piece. 

If the OP were to install the subwoofers in question in a well-designed sealed enclosure with a Qts in the 0.5-0.7 range, the OP may find that despite being "underpowered" (referred to as a comparison between thermal power handling and amplifier capability), the subwoofers will reach their mechanical limits with minimal to no clipping. Of course, this depends on the source signal as well, but you get the idea.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Also note that generally speaking, a doubling in impedance often doesn't cause a halving in power output. Typical behavior of Class-D and Class-AB amplifiers is such that you have slightly higher than half the amount of power with a doubling in impedance. An amplifier that produces 1000W @ a 2 ohm resistance will produce closer to 600W @ a 4 ohm resistance, and 350-400W @ an 8 ohm resistance


I know, and I didn't half it from 4ohm (116) to 8ohm (70-80), but I did have to guess since 8ohm was not listed on the specs for the amp.


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

Sorry about the delay, heres the pics. Dual voice coil, 8ohms , at the moment each sub it wired separately to its own + - port on each side

Sent from Ru5ty's galaxy S III


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

I read the discription for the gm PAC adapter and it says not to be used with the factory installed amplifier .... Which I have because of the pioneer system... So could I just run the wires from my 6x9's to my subs instead ? How many watts is the factory amp and it it safe for the kicker comps?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Ru5ty said:


> Sorry about the delay, heres the pics. Dual voice coil, 8ohms , at the moment each sub it wired separately to its own + - port on each side
> 
> Sent from Ru5ty's galaxy S III


I'd definitely use those, but they're single voice coils, not dual. dual voice coils have a total of 4 terminals. Those look like they have two, unless I'm missing something. Wire them down to 4 ohms and you'll be good to go. Looks like they'd sound pretty good. Most subs of that era sounded a heck of a lot better than the newer subs we have on the market today. 



Ru5ty said:


> I read the discription for the gm PAC adapter and it says not to be used with the factory installed amplifier .... Which I have because of the pioneer system... So could I just run the wires from my 6x9's to my subs instead ? How many watts is the factory amp and it it safe for the kicker comps?
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


They are pretty generic descriptions. You're safe to use it on the head unit of Pioneer-equipped Cruzes. Many have already. You could, however, run them off the wires from the 6x9s, but then you wouldn't have the front RCAs in case you want to upgrade from speakers at some point in the future.


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## Ru5ty (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks , each side of the sub has 2 terminals , but I think they are just there to help connecting them tighter in series . I'm going to try running the wires from the 6x9 to the subs and see what happens. I'm not expecting an amazing result , but if its enough ill just leave it that way and hook the amp up later .


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Ru5ty said:


> Thanks , each side of the sub has 2 terminals , but I think they are just there to help connecting them tighter in series .http://www.autoguide.com/mobile


1 terminal, multiple connections, so they are Single Voice Coil.
IMO I would not connect them to the 6x9's, as you won't get the sound you are expecting, but that could just be me


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Dragonsys said:


> 1 terminal, multiple connections, so they are Single Voice Coil.
> IMO I would not connect them to the 6x9's, as you won't get the sound you are expecting, but that could just be me


I must have understood that incorrectly. For some reason I thought run the line out converter off the 6x9 wires.

Factory amp doesn't have enough power for those. Not by a long shot.

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