# Best place to tap speaker wires from factory head unit?



## Cerl3erus (Sep 16, 2016)

Hatch or sedan? Sedans have deck speaker were hatch has door speakers so either behind door panel or behind the deck that's were mines done


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## GraySkies (Feb 6, 2018)

It's a sedan, but this one has door speakers and then tweeters on the dash. I was hoping to pick up both fronts and both rears in one place, rather than opening up all the doors and such, since I'm taking all four feeds into a DSP. Do these wires exit the head unit all in one place behind the dash display, or is the actual head unit someplace else in the car?

This is my first experience with an integrated system like this MyLink, so I'm just trying to get my bearings here.


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## GraySkies (Feb 6, 2018)

Got a look at the alldata manual, and it looks like the head unit is separate from the display, maybe? The diagram makes it look like the head unit is behind the glovebox on the passenger's side. Can anyone confirm whether this is where the speaker wires originate?


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## bpl0807 (Feb 5, 2018)

GraySkies said:


> Got a look at the alldata manual, and it looks like the head unit is separate from the display, maybe? The diagram makes it look like the head unit is behind the glovebox on the passenger's side. Can anyone confirm whether this is where the speaker wires originate?


I have the 7" screen in my 16' LT and am in the process of revamping the entire speaker setup and adding a subwoofer using a line output converter. The way I tapped in was by pulling the headunit, which is indeed attached to the back of the display and tagged in to the speaker wires that come out of the brown plug. Now again, mine is the base 7" mylink like yours, so it should be the same for you. I actually disconnected my rear door speakers by cutting the wires and installing some quick disconnect speaker terminals and ran speaker wire back to the rear deck as I have ordered some 6x9s and pair of Metra 82-3004 GM speaker brackets that even though specify are for the trucks will still indeed work in the factory opening in the rear deck of our 2nd gen Cruzes.


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## GraySkies (Feb 6, 2018)

Thanks for the reply. I will look into that. 

I sorta assumed that the alldata manual showed them coming out of the HMI module because that's where they last originate before they head to the speakers (so the onstar and bluetooth and all that stuff would play through them too). If I can pick them up either place, though, that helps.


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## GraySkies (Feb 6, 2018)

Hey *bpl0807*

Did you happen to come across a pinout diagram for that brown plug in your travels? 

Are the wires there the same color codes as the door speaker wires?


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## GraySkies (Feb 6, 2018)

Finally found pinout in the ALLDATA manual. This is the brown plug on the back of the radio/display unit:


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## roechas (Mar 19, 2018)

Hi All,

I am looking to add a powered subwoofer to my 2018 Cruze LT. Is it possible to tap the rear door speaker wires for my LOC? Are the wires accessible by removing the bottom trim piece?


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## Slimgravy (Nov 12, 2017)

Doing mine now... thanks to that pin out diagram above...


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## Slimgravy (Nov 12, 2017)

These are the 4 wires to the front. In not convinced that the tears get full signal as the sound like garbage.


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## IPhantom (Aug 22, 2017)

roechas said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I am looking to add a powered subwoofer to my 2018 Cruze LT. Is it possible to tap the rear door speaker wires for my LOC? Are the wires accessible by removing the bottom trim piece?


The door panels are pre-assembled so that you cannot take it apart. It comes off as whole piece.
I'd tap at the head unit if possible. Going trough the door boot is a PITA.


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

The best place is actually behind the radio, where usually you have a line out; and install the amp under the dash (steering wheel), because of the ease of access, distance to the factory sound system, and battery.

Then you can run a speaker wire to the trunk under the footboard (door carpet). You just want to insulate them well, as often the stock insulation of speaker wires isn't made for mechanical abuse, and can be damaged easily by force, or over time.

I would not use an amplifier that amplifies the signal from the door speakers.
Regular amplifiers aren't made for this, and amplifiers that are, usually have a lot of hiss.
It'll be the same amount of work (but much cleaner finish) to get the dash console opened up, than to get access to the door speakers, and rewire them from there...


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## roechas (Mar 19, 2018)

Thanks IPhantom for your reply.
I ended up tapping into the wires at the front driver side kick plate


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## Drich84 (Jun 27, 2018)

roechas said:


> Thanks IPhantom for your reply.
> I ended up tapping into the wires at the front driver side kick plate
> View attachment 264999


Are those the rear speaker leads? How does this sound?

Also, where did you wire your remote turn on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## firehawk618 (Feb 24, 2013)

yeah tapping behind the display might be an option for some of you.

For those with the 8" and Bose this is NOT an option.

Your only choices are grabbing a signal AFTER the amp.

On those system GM uses MOST protocol to send the signals from the "head unit" to the amp. The actual way it work is MOST communication from display > HMI > amplifier.

The ONLY place you can get an analog signal is after the amp in those situations.

I figured I would post this here because it is not mentioned in any replies and someone with a Bose may find this thread and head the wrong direction.


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## zackcarnahan01 (Jan 8, 2022)

roechas said:


> Thanks IPhantom for your reply.
> I ended up tapping into the wires at the front driver side kick plate
> View attachment 264999


What wires did you use? On top of kick plate or bottom my 15 cruize I hooked up yesterday now my front windows don't work radio and headlights doesn't turn off when door opens but radio eventually turns off headlights I switched off manually cause it got dark on me and quit for the night also my amps not working where did you run remote wire? Thanks in advance also what did you use for the constant wire and ground?


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