# DIY Salvage Diesel Cruze Project



## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Well here it goes, this is my project....2014 Cruze Diesel with 93k miles, bought from the infamous Copart auction(yay). I have mixed feelings about that "wonderful" business, but that's a whole other thread. I decided that my last auction vehicle was not worthy enough for my 80mi/day drive as I'm only averaging 19mpg with a 2006 Cadillac STS V8 RWD. Boy is it fun with over 300 horseys though, and it will be missed. Anyways, $120/wk in gas is not acceptable and I ran across this diesel Cruze for $3000. Appeared as if it only needed front and rear bumper covers, a tail light, and a rear reinforcement bar. No big deal....right? I thought because the Cruze has been out since 2011 and a cheaper entry level car, parts are cheap and plentiful within local junkyards. Not so much, but I'm dealing with it. Just to add to this, I am Polish (take that how you want), and very high, low standards...lol. Upon inspection of the car once it was home, I quickly realized why it was deemed a total loss from the insurance company. The impact in the rear pushed the trunk in a bit. I researched how cars are pulled apart on frame racks, so I decided to make a body hook from scrap steel that I had lying around. Unfortunately, the only thing strong enough was 1x2 solid bar. So, a little overkill, but it sure worked good with a chainfall attached to my diesel Suburban. That's where I'm at right now. I'm doing everything myself, possibly even the paint if I purchase new bumpers. Crossing my fingers, hopefully it'll look good when I'm done. If not, oh well, she runs pretty dang good already....SEND IT!


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## Cruzen18 (Jan 28, 2018)

Nice project car...looks good! :welcome:


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

You're doing what I set out to do last summer, but when high mile first gen diesels kept going over $5k, I found a 2000 mile 2017 RS gasser and bought that instead. Yours looks to be the same black granite color as my 2017.

Try to find bumper plastic from a same color car. 
Rear should be fairly easy, front might be harder to find used, they're usually hit in the front. 
I believe there are very cheap aftermarket bumpers available for first gen. The owner of my body shop tells me he typically pays around $30 for new plastic bumper covers. 
Rockauto has a first gen RS front bumper cover for $50 (plus freight).


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

You sir have my interest, keep us posted on progress (and pics too)...good luck.

PS Thanks for the new ‘use’ for my old 4x4 ‘Burban...Frame Straightener...LOL


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Thank you thank you. I'll be heading out Saturday to check out some bumper covers at local yards. 


Taxman.....so true. I've found rear bumpers and only one broken front (with active shutter) that I'm going to look at so far. I've seen the cheap aftermarket, but keep thinking about how I would have to buy everything "ala carte" at that point. Buying oem with everything on it already but just needs a coat of paint sounds slightly better to me, so I'm going to try that route first. Looks like you got a nice deal yourself, basically a new car for a few grand. I'm really liking this color too, just not sure how I'm gonna like spraying it though.


Rivergoer....you like that eh? Lol, I figured SOMEone would get a kick outta that


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Woohoo, I'm on a roll! Found a Titanium Metallic rear bumper in good shape for a decent price. I don't even have to paint it, just snap it on! Still gonna go check out that front bumper on Saturday. Thanks again Cruzen18 for your suggestion to car-part.com


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Ok, so I get an hour Northwest from home to look at an ECO front bumper. It was completely junk so I went and sat in my truck and checked the ol innerweb before I left. Found a grey front bumper from a 2013 Cruze an hour south in Detroit for a couple hundred bucks. Screw it, knowing it was gonna be a shade off due to an update in 2014, I just wanted to be done and picked it up. It's halfway decent, too bad it's just a bit off on the grey. Oh well, I need experience with spraying.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Had fun pulling the seatbelts out today. Gonna send em out to a company in Massachusetts to be rebuilt this coming week for $45/ea.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Looking for any help with info on the diesel active grille shutter. I'm assuming in the one pic, the wire dangling on the left would be for the shutter actuator. In the second pic is a closeup of that connector. I picked up a used shutter assembly locally, but the connector will not plug in. I can't find much for info specific to a 14 diesel, but it does have the WA7 RPO code which whatever I find online suggests is the same part number for all Cruze 2011-2015. Am I missing something?


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Looks like a fun project! The prices on first gen diesels have held really well for the mileage they are usually at.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Sunline Fan said:


> Looks like a fun project! The prices on first gen diesels have held really well for the mileage they are usually at.


I was able to watch a couple diesel Cruze auctions prior to mine. They were pretty comparable and seem to be going for about the same price (~$3000+). Keep in mind these were salvage titles, while my research on clean title cars was coming up with about $10k for local private ads and about $12k+ for local dealer ads (typically less miles at a dealer though).

I expect to have about $5600 total into my project which includes Copart fees and inspection fees, to which it will be branded "Rebuilt" title.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

I've got too many things going on right now so I'm doing a little here and a little there. Sucks that I ordered a rear bumper bracket online from Arizona, idiots send it in a bag and of course shows up broken. They want it shipped back, then they'll ship a new one. All for a ten dollar part...lol awesome. So here's a couple pics of what I did. The other day I caulked the trunk where it had separated, then put it all together yesterday. I found some cool carbon fiber decals and covered my Chevy emblems. Because the car is of a grey color, I though the carbon fiber would really look good so I had to do it for only a few bucks.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

The CF wrap on the bowties does look good, and works very well with the gray, as you mentioned.

So...if it broke during shipping due to their own negligence, they can feel free to pay for the shipping to send it back...


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Thanks MP81, and yes they gave me a return label thankfully. I'm just irritated that I have to wait another week to get my rear bumper installed. At least they're taking care of it though.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Jondaytona said:


> Thanks MP81, and yes they gave me a return label thankfully. I'm just irritated that I have to wait another week to get my rear bumper installed. At least they're taking care of it though.


Probably worth it to them so people don't try to scam and get the part for free.

I used to work for a wheel manufacturer and we'd do that all the time for dealer warranty replacements. Wheel couldn't be resold since it was used, so it was just worth scrap value, which isn't much. So shipping it was a cost. But we asked to have them ship it back so we knew the customer wasn't getting free extra wheels.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

After looking into the connector to the grille shutter, I've realized it is all correct. I just needed to lube the gasket of the connector a bit so it would go together properly. Glad it was just something stupid.


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## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

I love totaled Cruzes! I've rebuilt 4 of them. Do you have a scan tool that does SRS? You'll need one to reset the SDM or you'll have to send it out for reset. It's under the console. Glad you figured out the shutters. 2 of my Cruzes were Eco's with damaged shutters. On those cars, I needed to change the Fuel Pump Driver module $30 used vs $400 ish for the shutter assembly to turn off the CE light the shutters created. Not sure how to remove them on a Diesel. I've used two base Cruze aftermarket front covers, and they fit and look fine for about $60.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

The shutters should be the same as the Eco - I believe it is (basically) the same front bumper.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Gus_Mahn said:


> I love totaled Cruzes! I've rebuilt 4 of them. Do you have a scan tool that does SRS? You'll need one to reset the SDM or you'll have to send it out for reset. It's under the console. Glad you figured out the shutters. 2 of my Cruzes were Eco's with damaged shutters. On those cars, I needed to change the Fuel Pump Driver module $30 used vs $400 ish for the shutter assembly to turn off the CE light the shutters created. Not sure how to remove them on a Diesel. I've used two base Cruze aftermarket front covers, and they fit and look fine for about $60.


Yes, I have a Snap On Solus Pro that will hopefully do the job. 

I was able to Craigslist a local shutter from an earlier Eco for only $80 and a standard front bumper in good shape for $250 with everything included. Within the week I will hopefully get everything together and see if it works. 

I've heard of issues with removing the shutters, but a fuel pump module takes care of that!? 

Thanks for the info!


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## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

Jondaytona said:


> Yes, I have a Snap On Solus Pro that will hopefully do the job.
> 
> I was able to Craigslist a local shutter from an earlier Eco for only $80 and a standard front bumper in good shape for $250 with everything included. Within the week I will hopefully get everything together and see if it works.
> 
> ...


On a gas Eco the shutters removed sets a P069E and U0284. Both codes make it look like a fuel system issue because the fuel pump driver module (right rear 1/4 behind trim) controls the fuel pump to regulate fuel pressure without a mechanical regulator, and on an Eco it also controls the shutters. I found this thread on HPtuners when trying to turn my CE light off. Though I like the thought of the shutters, I never did see much of a loss with them removed. At most 1-2 mpg. My '12's(one with shutter, on without) always seemed to get better milage than my '13(removed shutters), which was more obvious than my '12 with shutters vs the '12 with them removed.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Gus_Mahn said:


> On a gas Eco the shutters removed sets a P069E and U0284. Both codes make it look like a fuel system issue because the fuel pump driver module (right rear 1/4 behind trim) controls the fuel pump to regulate fuel pressure without a mechanical regulator, and on an Eco it also controls the shutters. I found this thread on HPtuners when trying to turn my CE light off. Though I like the thought of the shutters, I never did see much of a loss with them removed. At most 1-2 mpg. My '12's(one with shutter, on without) always seemed to get better milage than my '13(removed shutters), which was more obvious than my '12 with shutters vs the '12 with them removed.


Awesome info, much appreciated! I have 8 DTC's right now and one of which is the P069E that was confusing me. So from what you've said, that should reset once I install everything.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Nice job.. You have done almost exactly what I would do.. except I would use my tractor to do the pulling..

I might steal your design for the pulling bar if I find a Copart CRUZE one day.


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## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

Jondaytona said:


> Awesome info, much appreciated! I have 8 DTC's right now and one of which is the P069E that was confusing me. So from what you've said, that should reset once I install everything.


Salvage cars get a lot of ghost codes caused by low voltage. They sit so log that the battery often dies, and this will cause codes to be set. Deep cycling can ruin the battery, but all of my Cruze batteries have taken a charge and lasted at least 2-3 years after rebuilding. Airbags turn on all kinds of lights, service stability, service traction, service airbag... I've even had service steering after installing clock springs (airbag plugs melt on early Cruzes). Apparently some were clocked wrong at the manufacture. Charge the battery, clear the codes, and see what comes back after a few starts.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

So far, so good....received my seatbelts in the mail yesterday. I was able to install them and get the interior back together again. Reconnected the battery, hooked up the scan tool and cleared all codes. Took it for a quick ride, went from 8 codes down to 1, P069E for the fuel pump module. Once I get the front bumper together and plug in that shutter, I'm hoping what "Gus_Mahn" posted ends up being true in my case as well. She runs and drives great, so I can't imagine why else that code would be triggered. Hopefully by next week I'll have it inspected and legal to drive.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

I hope I don't get too much crap for this since I have little confidence with body/paint work, but I'll be posting my progress on this crappy front bumper. Looks like it had the "2.5mph test" performed on it, so I'm gonna attempt to make it better. Here's some pics with what I'm starting with....


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Aaahhh, another sense of accomplishment! Got the rear bumper on and buffed out. Still working on the front.....slowly, but I got Axalta paint by VIN (121V Iridium Metallic). Base, clear and everything to go with it including a lil putty to smooth things out for $130. Not bad. Nason would have been cheaper, but for one bumper, I wanted to see how it comes out. We'll see in the next few days I guess!


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Looking good. My 2017 is Iridium/Titanium/Black Granite/U121V also. Need to get some paint, my body man won't sell me any now that he's gone water based. Probably means I couldn't spray it if he gave it to me.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Yeah, I really like the color, doubt it so much when I finally spray it though due to the flake. 

I've heard of the water-based transition over the years, but haven't seen it yet. Apparently that's how they're painting from the factory now???


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

frankh said:


> Nice job.. You have done almost exactly what I would do.. except I would use my tractor to do the pulling..
> 
> I might steal your design for the pulling bar if I find a Copart CRUZE one day.


Almost same exact Cruze diesel as mine up for auction on Copart today in Indiana! Looks like it needs airbags and two doors, maybe a lil rear quarter bump. I'm watching it just to see if it goes for less or at least the same as what I paid for mine.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> I've heard of the water-based transition over the years, but haven't seen it yet. Apparently that's how they're painting from the factory now???


Yeah, they've been using water-based paint for quite some time now.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Yeah, they've been using water-based paint for quite some time now.


Remember the early 1990s, when paint was falling off GM products in sheets, particularly white and blue ones? I called it water based leprosy at the time.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I do remember that. It was common on other brands too, but always was a blue or white GM product you see with the paint missing.

It has come such a long way since then.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

So I've been working more on a boat lately than the Cruze just so I could get it in the water for the holiday (which was perfect BTW). 








I was able to get some putty on the front bumper, prime it, then wet sand it. Unfortunately, the primer came out like Rhino-liner for a pickup bed. I'm guessing one shouldn't use 4yr old primer that has been thru Michigan winters. So that's where I'm at. I'm debating on whether I should prime it one more time or just attempt to spray the color now.....


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

FINALLY!!! I got er dun....to my standards anyway. First heated ugly areas with a heat gun to reshape the bumper. First mistake was grabbing an orbital sander that was already lying around from using on my boat for it's bottom paint. There was 100g paper on it and the orbital made some nasty cuts in the bumper. From then on, I decided to hand sand and I plastered some bondo. I think I used 320 or 360 before priming it. Second mistake, using 4yr old primer that was in my cabinet. For some reason I couldn't hand mix it good enough and it was thick and came out textured like rino-liner. Wet-sanded that down with 400, got er smooth. Laid 3 base coats, third was far away with the air up and slow passes as a suggestion from someone in order to lay the flake a lil nicer, and I think it worked. Followed by 3 coats of clear. Clear is tricky for me as I have a fear for runs, so I tend to err toward the lighter side until I'm comfy with what I'm doin. By that time, I already had the second coat on and realizing there wasn't much left in the gun, so I heavily coated the highly visible areas (top edges, front and sides that meet the fender). By doing this, I feel like it's "acceptable" for a salvage car that will be driven 100miles/day, and I don't think I'll have to wet sand it. We'll see after I install it I guess. Here's some pics....

Started with these issues














Here's the base,







...and the clear,







Here's with a flash to see the color, and this angle shows the crappy orange peely better too,








Can't wait to get it on now!


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

BTW, that was the third time throughout 24yrs that I had attempted to paint with a paint gun. Furthermore, the last time I painted a hood 4yrs ago, I bought a 2-gun HVLP kit from Harbor Frieght Tools for about $40. That's what I used for this bumper as well. Not too bad, but nothing like my buddy's $600 SATA. I regulated at 10psi with the Central Pneumatic, slightly higher with the clear coat, seemed to work out decently.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

I'm sorry guys, but I couldn't stand those OEM circular tail lights that remind me of an early 2000's Impala, so I replaced em....









I'll have to get a pic during the day, but I'm likin' these


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

What kind of shape were the stock lights in?


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

You've done a really good job on that car, esp the paintwork. Congrats.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

MP81 said:


> What kind of shape were the stock lights in?


Umm...perfectly fine, lol. Yeah, I'm stupid, I know.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> Umm...perfectly fine, lol. Yeah, I'm stupid, I know.


Haha, no, I may want them. Easier to black out a separate set of taillights and be able to drive the car at the same time.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Brake on...


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Brake off....


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

I don't think they're bright enough on a sunny day...ugh, waste of more money to China people.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

thebac said:


> You've done a really good job on that car, esp the paintwork. Congrats. /forum/images/smilies/smile.png


Thank you, much appreciated.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

So here's the final assembly on the front. Not perfect, but surprised myself with the paint job. One clip seems to be broke on the driver fender that's bugging me cuz you can see the bumper cover isn't snapped in all the way. Oh well, I'll let it go for now.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Jondaytona said:


> I don't think they're bright enough on a sunny day...ugh, waste of more money to China people.


The camera may be deceiving, but those look dangerous in the photos. 

Maybe some super bright LEDs would make a difference, if you can find some that are honestly brighter than a 27 watt 1156 bulb.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

MP81 said:


> Haha, no, I may want them. Easier to black out a separate set of taillights and be able to drive the car at the same time.


At this point, I just might be going that route myself since I don't feel like these new lights are bright enough. I dunno yet, I'm gonna look into it and see what I wanna do.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Well, if you decide you want to sell em, let me know, I'm only 45 min away, haha.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> I'm sorry guys, but I couldn't stand those OEM circular tail lights that remind me of an early 2000's Impala, so I replaced em....
> 
> View attachment 263481
> 
> ...


Were these plug and play? I have a set that are not. I thought I had the harness figured out, but I am still having issues.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> Were these plug and play? I have a set that are not. I thought I had the harness figured out, but I am still having issues.


Yes, plug n play brake lights, then the trunk lights were a lil different, but basically plugged in also. The brake lights had the entire harness that went through and into the body/trunk area where they plugged in. The trunk lights had two wires going into a connector, then two open wires. The connectors plugged in to give you running lights while the extra wires are there for brake light option. Which I'm going to try wiring in to see if that helps make them more visible during the day. I could take pics or draw a diagram if you need it, let me know.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Here's the last thing I'll be installing for a while, a nice pair of projector headlights with LED DRL/Blinkers. I have an HID kit that I didn't have time to install yet. I was able to dig up some nice info through our forums on how others were wiring their DRL's and HID's. Eventually I want to do the same with these. Wire the HID's to the running lights so they only come on at night when the auto-sensor tells them to. Then wire the DRL's to the headlight circuit so they come on when the computer originally tells the DRL's to come on. Hence the reason "no time" yet, this wiring install alone will take some time. BTW, I had the factory HID system in my Caddy and I loved em. I'm very happy with these new projector style headlights for the Cruze even with the halogen bulbs, they perform just like the Caddy did. Can't wait to get the HID's installed now.

Here's a pic of what these new headlights look like with just the running lights on....


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

And here's a pic during daylight...


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Also, I wired my rear tail lights as brake lights too. Added a wire from the brake light harness to the decklid tail lights since there was an option for it on these aftermarket lights.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

In that light, from that particular angle anyway, they look brighter than the (factory?) 3rd brake light.

Not meaning to derail Johnny's thread, but I'd be all over this if it was in Michigan instead of Montana. Perfect exterior/interior colors and 53kmi, should be driveable with a new rear axle and a wheel, a bit more expensive to make it pretty again:
https://www.copart.com/lot/32573108


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

I wouldn't say brighter than factory, but maybe the same. I'm sure the way the daylight shining off the back window has an effect with comparison to the tail lights that are in the shade. I think the tail lights will work, but I definitely think they should be a bit brighter though.

I don't know about anyone else, but I do not see that color Cruze very often. That does look to be a good deal to take up. Looks like a quarter panel, rear bumper cover and some suspension work....not too bad considering how little it will probably go for!


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Thought I'd bump Johnny's thread with this recovered stolen 2014 in case anybody else wants to play along. 
https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=28405990


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Taxman said:


> Thought I'd bump Johnny's thread with this recovered stolen 2014 in case anybody else wants to play along.
> https://www.iaai.com/Vehicle?itemID=28405990


I'm 45 mins from there. What would you consider a decent starting bid might be? I have never followed auctions aside from an occasional Mecums.

EDIT: Just looked up the site on Google Maps and I'm about two hours away. Not really in Milwaukee.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Blasirl said:


> I'm 45 mins from there. What would you consider a decent starting bid might be? I have never followed auctions aside from an occasional Mecums.
> 
> EDIT: Just looked up the site on Google Maps and I'm about two hours away. Not really in Milwaukee.


All depends on the title situation at this point. With no visible major damage and with it running and driving, it'll be a big draw for a lot of rebuilders. Hopefully it comes with a clear title, which would allow you to bid on it without a license, but it'll also drive the price up. Even without a clear title, there's a lot of value there. I would say $3-5000, even though I don't watch these regularly to know for sure.

Plan on adding sales tax and other fees to that price too. You need to remove it from the location within a few days, so you can't easily go get the paperwork and then go get a title and plate to drive it home. Maybe, but doubtful. They may require you to have it transported out. You could have a flatbed haul it, but getting another carrier would be a lot cheaper. If you have to pay for transportation too, plan on the sales tax and fees to be about another $1000 total. Still a good deal for a low mileage diesel, assuming someone didn't put dirt in the fuel tank or oil or something.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Basically what the "Epic Beard Man" said is true in my opinion as well. With my recent experience, I lost a car at auction at $3000 which was very similar damage and distance from my current Cruze (salvage title, just under 100k miles, minor to moderate damage w/o airbag deployment). So the next car that was going up was my current Cruze, I raised my bid amount and won the auction at $3100. By the time I got there to pay for it, the added fees for me(average Joe non-dealer) was about $900. In my case, my thinking was that since my car was smashed, there's a 99% chance it was running/driving without major problems. Not to mention the auction listed it as "Runs and Drives". These things help my mind settle knowing it should be ok, but still taking chances in any case.

So, Wisconsin looks to be a dealer only state (at least thru Copart anyway), which means you probably won't be able to bid through an auction on a car without the help of a broker. The good part is that the bidding stays lower. If it comes up as a clear title (repo maybe?), I'd say a dealer only auction might bring up to $5k for that Cruze, whereas a salvage title will keep it right around $3k, IMO.

The lower miles and no visible damage on that Cruze will help bring more money at auction though.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Sunline Fan said:


> All depends on the title situation at this point. With no visible major damage and with it running and driving, it'll be a big draw for a lot of rebuilders. Hopefully it comes with a clear title, which would allow you to bid on it without a license, but it'll also drive the price up. Even without a clear title, there's a lot of value there. I would say $3-5000, even though I don't watch these regularly to know for sure.
> 
> Plan on adding sales tax and other fees to that price too. You need to remove it from the location within a few days, so you can't easily go get the paperwork and then go get a title and plate to drive it home. Maybe, but doubtful. They may require you to have it transported out. You could have a flatbed haul it, but getting another carrier would be a lot cheaper. If you have to pay for transportation too, plan on the sales tax and fees to be about another $1000 total. Still a good deal for a low mileage diesel, assuming someone didn't put dirt in the fuel tank or oil or something.





Jondaytona said:


> Basically what the "Epic Beard Man" said is true in my opinion as well. With my recent experience, I lost a car at auction at $3000 which was very similar damage and distance from my current Cruze (salvage title, just under 100k miles, minor to moderate damage w/o airbag deployment). So the next car that was going up was my current Cruze, I raised my bid amount and won the auction at $3100. By the time I got there to pay for it, the added fees for me(average Joe non-dealer) was about $900. In my case, my thinking was that since my car was smashed, there's a 99% chance it was running/driving without major problems. Not to mention the auction listed it as "Runs and Drives". These things help my mind settle knowing it should be ok, but still taking chances in any case.
> 
> So, Wisconsin looks to be a dealer only state (at least thru Copart anyway), which means you probably won't be able to bid through an auction on a car without the help of a broker. The good part is that the bidding stays lower. If it comes up as a clear title (repo maybe?), I'd say a dealer only auction might bring up to $5k for that Cruze, whereas a salvage title will keep it right around $3k, IMO.
> 
> The lower miles and no visible damage on that Cruze will help bring more money at auction though.



I was guessing about $5000.00. I cannot seem to find out if it runs / drives though. When I was younger I had many friends in the auto industry and included a couple of dealers, but no more. Anyway I think my wife would kill me if I added another project to the list...


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Blasirl said:


> I was guessing about $5000.00. I cannot seem to find out if it runs / drives though. When I was younger I had many friends in the auto industry and included a couple of dealers, but no more. Anyway I think my wife would kill me if I added another project to the list...


I bought my parts Excursion through IAA. The start code says run and drive, so it should. They seem to test that, because they move the ones that way that they can I think, vs. waiting for the forklift.

If it didn't start, it would say so- no start, no key/cannot test, bio hazard, etc. Mine had a key, but they couldn't test because the doors were ajar since the accident and completely drained the batteries. I think they typically use a jump box, but with the power required to start a diesel, it wasn't going to cut it with two dead batteries. I think for fear of leaking fluids too, they probably don't try it with rollovers, which mine was.

When it was delivered at home, they had to drop it at the end of the driveway. I towed it up the driveway, swapped in two batteries, added oil and power steering fluid, and she fired up. I too assumed that prior to the wreck, it must have been running and driving fairly well, so there shouldn't be any huge problems that would prevent it from starting and running. In fact, it seemed to be running quite well, with that final tank having gone 21.3 miles per gallon.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

It can get tricky though. I bought my Cadillac STS that had push button start with a key fob. It was labeled as "NO KEY", but there was one that came with the car it just needed to be programmed. So that was a plus for me, no big deal. Then, a guy I work with decided he's gonna buy an Audi A6 that was branded "FLOOD". Title came back clean/green, but the engine was blown....go figure. He decides he's now gonna buy a Nissan Altima "RUNS DRIVES", which it did, but wouldn't go over 2mph due to a clogged catalytic converter. Found out that was a repo too. I swear, it seems as if you're better off buying a vehicle that was involved in an accident because for the most part at that point, running and driving will be the least of your worries.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> I was guessing about $5000.00. I cannot seem to find out if it runs / drives though. When I was younger I had many friends in the auto industry and included a couple of dealers, but no more. Anyway I think my wife would kill me if I added another project to the list...


How does that saying go...it's better to ask for forgiveness than permission?

Lol, I did it for 8yrs, was a good run for me I guess. I don't know how my parents made it over 50yrs married. My hat's off to those that can keep it together! Seems to be a rarity these days.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> How does that saying go...it's better to ask for forgiveness than permission?
> 
> Lol, I did it for 8yrs, was a good run for me I guess. I don't know how my parents made it over 50yrs married. My hat's off to those that can keep it together! Seems to be a rarity these days.


Been together for 32 years and married for 26


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

So I have a thread on trying to figure out my P227B DTC, but figured I'd post a follow up here as well. I dropped the Cruze at the dealership yesterday to have it diagnosed. They wanted to be sure I understood that all warranties are null and void once a vehicle has a branded Salvage title. I understand the bumper to bumper up to 36,000mi type of deal, but the federal emissions too? I think that's a bunch of crap. Just my opinion.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

The emissions warranty is only 2 years/24k miles, if I remember correctly. It's super short.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

MP81 said:


> The emissions warranty is only 2 years/24k miles, if I remember correctly. It's super short.


It was actually your post in another thread that I read that gave me hope there was still warranty on certain things....


"_Some people are saying that the Particulate Matter Sensor is covered under the extended warranty. Is that correct?

_It is covered under a special warranty - 10 years/120k miles."


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

The DPF sensors arent covered. Found that out. They arent that bad to replace yourself. The one thats the main problem is on top rear of the engine. Easy.
DEF tank reservoir/heater is covered 10yr/120,000....just had that replaced, but the DEF temp sensors are not covered. 
If you plan on keeping the car, look at OzTuner's options for removing the crap parts.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

The Particulate sensor that is covered with special coverage (which we've had replaced, earlier this year) is the one near the NOx2 sensor, out back (last sensor in the exhaust system). The last one on this list: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201...-diesel-emissions-sensor-number-location.html

But yes, EGT sensors are not covered. Currently I think our #2 is going out, as we get two codes - the 1/2 correlation and the 2/3 correlation. Running Torque and Snipey's Bi-Scan app, you can see EGT #2 reading ~200 degrees higher than #1 or #3.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

thebac said:


> The DPF sensors arent covered. Found that out. They arent that bad to replace yourself. The one thats the main problem is on top rear of the engine. Easy.
> DEF tank reservoir/heater is covered 10yr/120,000....just had that replaced, but the DEF temp sensors are not covered.
> If you plan on keeping the car, look at OzTuner's options for removing the crap parts.


Thanks for the info. And yes to the removing crap parts, lol. Just been contemplating whether I want to deal with a smokey tailpipe like my non-emissions Detroit diesel from 1997 that's in my Suburban.



MP81 said:


> The Particulate sensor that is covered with special coverage (which we've had replaced, earlier this year) is the one near the NOx2 sensor, out back (last sensor in the exhaust system). The last one on this list: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201...-diesel-emissions-sensor-number-location.html
> 
> But yes, EGT sensors are not covered. Currently I think our #2 is going out, as we get two codes - the 1/2 correlation and the 2/3 correlation. Running Torque and Snipey's Bi-Scan app, you can see EGT #2 reading ~200 degrees higher than #1 or #3.


Yeah thanks, unfortunately I was quick to replace my particulate sensor a few weeks ago, spent something like $130 off the innerweb. That took care of 1 of 2 DTC's. Oh well, hopefully I get some decent news from the dealer next week and it won't be too expensive.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I believe GM will reimburse you for that.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Ok, I'm done done done done. Got my car back yesterday after almost a thousand dollar ECM replacement and she's running the best yet and absolutely nothing wrong with it now. I'm excited to just drive it. Here's a pic of the last thing I did to it just before taking it in to the dealer. I'll be moving on to my next project, trying to keep my old Detroit Diesel cool since I noticed it running very hot last week while hauling my new camper. I really appreciate this forum and all the people within, thanks!







Sorry, kind of a crappy pic. I'll post a few more one day when I finally get to waxing the whole car down and lookin real good.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Great work!


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Thanks!


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## Cruzen18 (Jan 28, 2018)

Looks good! Like the clean look of the nose.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> Ok, I'm done done done done. Got my car back yesterday after almost a thousand dollar ECM replacement and she's running the best yet and absolutely nothing wrong with it now. I'm excited to just drive it. Here's a pic of the last thing I did to it just before taking it in to the dealer. I'll be moving on to my next project, trying to keep my old Detroit Diesel cool since I noticed it running very hot last week while hauling my new camper. I really appreciate this forum and all the people within, thanks!
> View attachment 265139
> 
> Sorry, kind of a crappy pic. I'll post a few more one day when I finally get to waxing the whole car down and lookin real good.


Lookin' gooood Lucy!


It looks as if you have Winjet headlights. Can you answer a few questions for me?

[h=1]Questions for Winjet owners[/h]


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> Lookin' gooood Lucy!
> 
> 
> It looks as if you have Winjet headlights. Can you answer a few questions for me?
> ...



I replied to your thread. Let me know if there's anything else you need. I really do like these headlights.


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## Muir86 (Dec 25, 2018)

Jondaytona said:


> I'm sorry guys, but I couldn't stand those OEM circular tail lights that remind me of an early 2000's Impala, so I replaced em....
> 
> View attachment 263481
> 
> ...


Looks like a 100.000$ Mercedes now, really nice lights!
Awesome job on the bumpers too :3tens:


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Here's the latest, K&N oilless(lol really, that's how you spell it...don't look right) and a new AGM battery....


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> Sorry, kind of a crappy pic. I'll post a few more one day when I finally get to waxing the whole car down and lookin real good.


OK, So where's the beef?


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Jondaytona said:


> Here's the latest, K&N oilless(lol really, that's how you spell it...don't look right) and a new AGM battery....
> 
> View attachment 269359


Oilless?
Looks like the usual gauze dirt passer with red K&N tacky oil on it.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> OK, So where's the beef?


Just for you, I went and polished her up last night. If the sun stays out long enough today without the dang rain, I'll try to get a pic with the sun bringing out the flake. There's something about the touch of freshly waxed paint, especially after a clay bar, I love it!


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Taxman said:


> Oilless?
> Looks like the usual gauze dirt passer with red K&N tacky oil on it.


Sorry, I said K&N, it's actually an AEM "Dryflow". I dunno, that's what they claim, no oil. Not to mention, they actually say you can powerwash it....lol no thanks.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Jondaytona said:


> Just for you, I went and polished her up last night. If the sun stays out long enough today without the dang rain, I'll try to get a pic with the sun bringing out the flake. There's something about the touch of freshly waxed paint, especially after a clay bar, I love it!
> 
> View attachment 271593
> View attachment 271595


Wow, THAT’S the same car from post #1? 

Amazing job, well done!


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Jondaytona said:


> Sorry, I said K&N, it's actually an AEM "Dryflow". I dunno, that's what they claim, no oil. Not to mention, they actually say you can powerwash it....lol no thanks.


They say AEM is owned by K&N. 
I did a little reading this AM. 
About the only things I'm sure of is they're less restrictive than paper when new and filter better than oiled gauze. So, at worst, they're better than the usual gauze performance filter.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Taxman said:


> They say AEM is owned by K&N.
> I did a little reading this AM.
> About the only things I'm sure of is they're less restrictive than paper when new and filter better than oiled gauze. So, at worst, they're better than the usual gauze performance filter.


I was able to get this one half off, so I wanted to try it, BUT it's obnoxious with how noisy it is. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone for this application.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Rivergoer said:


> Wow, THAT’S the same car from post #1?
> 
> Amazing job, well done!


Lol, yes sir! The combination of how well this diesel performs and the extras I've installed makes me really enjoy it.

Thank you


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> Just for you, I went and polished her up last night. If the sun stays out long enough today without the dang rain, I'll try to get a pic with the sun bringing out the flake. There's something about the touch of freshly waxed paint, especially after a clay bar, I love it!
> 
> View attachment 271593
> View attachment 271595


Sweet! 

Psst. Your rear wheel well is showing


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> Sweet!
> 
> Psst. Your rear wheel well is showing


Lol, you don't miss anything do ya! It's hard to keep it this clean while living on a dirt road. I gotta get me some more "NO TOUCH", that stuff works wonders.















I bought these wheels because they're painted with a metallic paint pretty close to the car's paint, kinda hard to notice I guess, but I like em.


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