# 2014 Cruze diesel service regen fails / stops with ... Diesel Engine Shut Down Soon msg



## vwgtiglx (Jun 13, 2013)

The engine was probably shut down when it was in a pre-regen part of operation - a well documented issue on Gen 1 diesels. The only way out of it is to take to the dealer for a forced Regen and that should take care of it.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Can you tell me how a forced regen at the dealer is different than a forced regen via the BiScan tool? I bought it because I understood it was the same procedure.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

It’s the exact same procedure.

If you have an OBDLINK Gretio - Automotive Scan Tool - Apps on Google Play Gretio will have a few extra service features such as Reset Cat 1 which can sometimes help. The pid “DPF Regen Inhibit Reason” may shine some light but that’s it. There’s nothing extra with the Dealer tool.

This sounds like over temp protection. Monitor EGT 1 and EGT 2 which is pre and post DOC. You will probably see EGT 2 shoot up well into 600, 700C range. The dpf unit is probably glowing at this point.

As for why...

Leaky injector is an obvious contender and I would say most likely if it is in fact EGT 2 over temp.
EGR valve not closing which is causing abnormally high temps. This should give a DTC if this is the case but still a worthy contender. The EGR shall remain shut for the whole procedure.
Throttle valve control not working correctly. Again this is pretty much always a DTC.
The DPF diff pressure sensor could also be faulty but this does not sound like the case. And again it’s highly prone to show a DTC if something is wrong.

If it is overtemp then sadly the dpf is likely destroyed at this point.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Thanks so much for that technical info. It _might _make sense at this point. I took another look at saved data and besides the P2463 for particulate filter I also found a P144E which I missed before and if I'm reading it right that's "Stage 2 Temperature Too Low"... so EGT 2 UNDER not OVER temp? P144E - Chevrolet Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis

As you mentioned, could a gummed up EGR be at fault here? Not closing, possibly, thereby causing the P144E? Or should I see another fault code specific to EGR as well?

Given the lack of recent maint, I wouldn't be surprised if the EGR were just plum full of gunk and had already planned to pull that and the throttle body for cleaning.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Thanks so much for that technical info. It _might _make sense at this point. I took another look at saved data and besides the P2463 for particulate filter I also found a P144E which I missed before and if I'm reading it right that's "Stage 2 Temperature Too Low"... so EGT 2 UNDER not OVER temp? P144E - Chevrolet Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis
> 
> As you mentioned, could a gummed up EGR be at fault here? Not closing, possibly, thereby causing the P144E? Or should I see another fault code specific to EGR as well?
> 
> Given the lack of recent maint, I wouldn't be surprised if the EGR were just plum full of gunk and had already planned to pull that and the throttle body for cleaning.


Well I was not expecting an under temp to cause an engine shutoff. But if it uses the same diagnostic pathway as the over temp it will just treat it the same as an over temp (kind dumb but whatever).

The issues are more or less the same. It's just more likely the dpf/doc is in fact... Destroyed.

I really want to know the history of this vehicle and how it went 6000km without a regen.... After about 2000 km you will get the "DPF Cleaning. Keep Driving" message because a regen 100% MUST occur after a certain distance and time regardless of current soot levels. Like did someone gut the dpf or something? Was it tuned? I have questions.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Snipesy said:


> The issues are more or less the same. It's just more likely the dpf/doc is in fact... Destroyed.


So hoping not... is there a definitive test?



Snipesy said:


> I really want to know the history of this vehicle and how it went 6000km without a regen.... After about 2000 km you will get the "DPF Cleaning. Keep Driving" message because a regen 100% MUST occur after a certain distance and time regardless of current soot levels. Like did someone gut the dpf or something? Was it tuned? I have questions.


As I said, I just picked it up used so can't be 100% sure but what I got from talking with PO was his father bought it new and kept it meticulous until a couple yrs ago when he passed. The son then got the car and basically ignored maint but drove it from time to time (had other cars). For that time it was driven mostly stop and go through city/metro area ... no idea for how long ... regen msgs were obviously ignored and when it finally went to Reduced Engine Power mode, they just kept occasionally driving it because hey it still drove, just slower... 

I knew it needed work and am able to do the work - with a hand figuring out emissions crap when it comes up - but hoping a destroyed DPF doesn't kill the budget.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> So hoping not... is there a definitive test?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If the DOC is gone it will smell quite bad during a Regen. You’re effectively just dumping fuel out and not even the SCR will stop it. No DOC. No temps. No Regen.

If no smell maybe EGT 2 is just not working but again that tends to cause a DTC almost always. However EGT 2 is relatively trivial to replace but you will need a special tool unless you want to remove the entire DPF. You may or may not be able to wrench it out just be cautious. If you have trouble don’t keep trying else you’ll strip it.

If its not EGT2, and it’s not the DOC. Then not enough fuel is passing the exhaust to collect on the DOC. As for why... Injector, throttle valve, egr, more or less the general issues you would expect.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

I would also add this is a GM screw up. That vehicle should be speed limiting. My guess is the Dpf Issue is somehow inhibiting the SCR checks from running which is what causes the countdown.

Dieselgate 2.0. Although this is obviously a mistake not intentional. Still GM should pay for it but good luck with that.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

@Snipesy may know better than I do but would this code prevent it from doing a normal regen whle driving on the freeway? If this was me, I'd just go out onto the freeway and sit at 70MPH for a couple hours and see if it burns out some of that soot just from normal operation and through the (way overdue) regen process.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> @Snipesy may know better than I do but would this code prevent it from doing a normal regen whle driving on the freeway? If this was me, I'd just go out onto the freeway and sit at 70MPH for a couple hours and see if it burns out some of that soot just from normal operation and through the (way overdue) regen process.


I have never seen the soot accumulation code itself prevent a regen before. Even in cases where the soot is maxed out and the DPF diff. pressure sensor is barely even functional.

Italian tune ups won't really work without the post injection. The engine itself is simply unable to produce enough heat to do a proper clean on its own. It must dump lots of extra and that fuel must burn in the exhaust.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

I had no smell on the couple forced regens that ended prematurely so hopefully that's a good sign. Also checked for but did not find any excess discharge or raw fuel at the tail pipe. .In the next few days I'm going to pull & clean the egr and tb and try a forced regen again. I'll post back on results. I appreciate all the info ya'll have provided so far 

As a thought, instead off doing a service regen - or if it fails - can I get on the hwy and call a regular regen with BiScan? Do you think there would be a difference?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> I had no smell on the couple forced regens that ended prematurely so hopefully that's a good sign. Also checked for but did not find any excess discharge or raw fuel at the tail pipe. .In the next few days I'm going to pull & clean the egr and tb and try a forced regen again. I'll post back on results. I appreciate all the info ya'll have provided so far
> 
> As a thought, instead off doing a service regen - or if it fails - can I get on the hwy and call a regular regen with BiScan? Do you think there would be a difference?


It doesn’t make a difference if the scan tool calls for a normal Regen or if the ECM does. You can do it. It just won’t do anything differently. The Regen reason will switch to device control or something along those lines but that’s it.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

jalias said:


> I had no smell on the couple forced regens that ended prematurely so hopefully that's a good sign. Also checked for but did not find any excess discharge or raw fuel at the tail pipe. .In the next few days I'm going to pull & clean the egr and tb and try a forced regen again. I'll post back on results. I appreciate all the info ya'll have provided so far
> 
> As a thought, instead off doing a service regen - or if it fails - can I get on the hwy and call a regular regen with BiScan? Do you think there would be a difference?


Just thinking through the physical structure of the emissions on the vehicle. Could a physically plugged DPF be restricting flow to the point that the re-gen is impossible, and EGT1 is heating up, but EGT2 is not heating up because of the restricted flow, which exceeds some threshold in the programming and shuts it all down? I would think this would be accompanied by a differential pressure sensor code if it was that restricted, but maybe a second failure of some kind, like restriction in the tubes to the pressure sensor, is responsible for that not setting. 

Another thought, if you're not in an emissions inspection state, there are other solutions that would be simpler, and most likely less expensive. You just have to know who to talk to.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> Just thinking through the physical structure of the emissions on the vehicle. Could a physically plugged DPF be restricting flow to the point that the re-gen is impossible, and EGT1 is heating up, but EGT2 is not heating up because of the restricted flow, which exceeds some threshold in the programming and shuts it all down? I would think this would be accompanied by a differential pressure sensor code if it was that restricted, but maybe a second failure of some kind, like restriction in the tubes to the pressure sensor, is responsible for that not setting.
> 
> Another thought, if you're not in an emissions inspection state, there are other solutions that would be simpler, and most likely less expensive. You just have to know who to talk to.


If it runs somewhat it’ll regenerate. You’ll eventually get a low turbo performance code if it gets that bad. Eventually followed by the engine just not starting...

I have doubts the dpf is recoverable in this case, Even if regen temps achiveved the particles are too big to burn off, Manual cleaning will at best cause the material to break apart. I’ve restored a dozen deleted trucks so far. Seen it all.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Snipesy said:


> If it runs somewhat it’ll regenerate. You’ll eventually get a low turbo performance code if it gets that bad. Eventually followed by the engine just not starting...
> 
> I have doubts the dpf is recoverable in this case, Even if regen temps achiveved the particles are too big to burn off, Manual cleaning will at best cause the material to break apart. I’ve restored a dozen deleted trucks so far. Seen it all.


The DPF in semi tractors are manually cleanable but would something as small as the one on a CTD also be manually cleanable?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> The DPF in semi tractors are manually cleanable but would something as small as the one on a CTD also be manually cleanable?


It would need to be cut in half and re welded to use a cleaning machine. So no not really cleanable.

But it won’t matter. If the DPF is caked like a neglected grill the compressed air will destroy the filter material before the soot is removed. Generally speaking those machines are only used for dpf retrofit kits in Cali.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Got the EGR and throttle body removed this morning... shoulda done it earlier but wow what a great weekend 

The EGR doesn't look too bad... about what I'd expect given the mileage... but definitely could use a cleaning and the action was sticking when I manually tested it. On removal, a bit of oil came out... is that normal for this engine? Or should I be looking for something causing that now?

The tb... wow I don't know how the engine was getting the air it needed. It is soooo gunked with carbon it's unreal. Chunks the size of small ice cubes broke off while I was separating tb from intake. With the plate open, I'd say volume / circumference area is reduced by 1/4-1/3 or more.

Realizing neither of these might be the actual regen issue, should I be looking at testing / replacing downstream NOx? Or, worse yet, has anyone actually replaced the dpf and what's involved? I haven't looked closely at it, but is it a bolt-on or welded?

Plan is to get these cleaned, reinstalled and force a regen again. Any data I should look at and post up that could help diagnose if the regen fails after a few minutes again with the engine shut down msg?

Thanks again for all the great info I've read so far


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Got the EGR and throttle body removed this morning... shoulda done it earlier but wow what a great weekend
> 
> The EGR doesn't look too bad... about what I'd expect given the mileage... but definitely could use a cleaning and the action was sticking when I manually tested it. On removal, a bit of oil came out... is that normal for this engine? Or should I be looking for something causing that now?
> 
> ...


A stuck throttle body may have been whats causing the regen to fail. Worth a shot. It needs to adjust air to generate more heat. For monitoring you just need to watch EGT 1 and 2. EGT 2 should be higher than EGT 1 at around 500-600C while EGT 1 may sit a little lower.

For sensors the NOx sensor will not affect regen. Only the EGTs, possibly the O2 sensors and of course the differential pressure sensor. The PMS is just there for general monitoring it doesn't do much engine wise.

I dont believe the dpf is recoverable but prove me wrong. It's tucked in there and iirc the manual has you move some stuff like egr cooler bits. You dont need to do that but it'll make handling the pressure pipes easier.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Speaking of cleaning the intake TB, has anyone found a permanent fix for the issue of the air charge hose clamp fatiguing and coming off the throttle body? I'm curious if just putting a hose clamp on it would be enough or is there a fixed clamp part#? I asked elsewhere and didn't get a response.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

Snipesy said:


> I dont believe the dpf is recoverable but prove me wrong. It's tucked in there and iirc the manual has you move some stuff like egr cooler bits. You dont need to do that but it'll make handling the pressure pipes easier.





jalias said:


> Realizing neither of these might be the actual regen issue, should I be looking at testing / replacing downstream NOx? Or, worse yet, has anyone actually replaced the dpf and what's involved? I haven't looked closely at it, but is it a bolt-on or welded?


Removal of the DPF is relatively easy. Nothing mechanical has to be removed to uninstall it--only stuff like heat shields, engine cover, underbody shield, etc. The two most difficult steps are reaching some of the heat shield bolts, and removing the V-clamp that holds the turbo and DPF together. If your flange bolts on the bottom of the DPF are badly rusted, that could be a trouble point. If you want to be really safe, having new flange nuts and a new Turbo-DPF gasket on hand wouldn't be a bad investment at less than $20 total for parts you're not likely to find in-stock locally. 

From there, the question would be whether there's anything you can do to physically clean it or not. I have no experience with reinstalling, but I imagine it's a straightforward reversal of the steps. The one spot I could see being challenging would be reconnecting the differential pressure sensor lines to their tubes on the DPF in the space available. It could also be interesting figuring out which line goes back on which tube unless you labelled them before removing.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> *The one spot I could see being challenging would be reconnecting the differential pressure sensor lines to their tubes on the DPF in the space available*.


It's easily the most difficult process. There is not much wiggle room. The hoses do not go on easilly, even lubricated. And every time I've done it the clamps had to be replaced as they just lacked any sort of tension and slid on and off.

You definitely don't need to label which is which. They will not fit any other way.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Fork in the road today... got the egr and tb all cleaned up went to install and found coolant where egr installs. I had stuffed shop towel in the cavity just to keep crawly or other things out while off for cleaning and the toweling was soaked with coolant. Normal when egr removed?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Fork in the road today... got the egr and tb all cleaned up went to install and found coolant where egr installs. I had stuffed shop towel in the cavity just to keep crawly or other things out while off for cleaning and the toweling was soaked with coolant. Normal when egr removed?


No.

I’m not sure where you are referring to.

A common failure point is the two hoses which connect to the EGR cooler. These little connector pieces are replaceable.

If it’s an internal seal well... GM only sells the entire EGR cooler assembly. It’s very expensive to the point a donor engine starts looking appetizing.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Snipesy said:


> No.


Crap. But didn't think so anyway.


Snipesy said:


> I’m not sure where you are referring to.


The hole/cavity left exxposed when you remove the EGR. I had a wadded shop towel stuffed there to prevent things falling/getting in that area while EGR removed. Was soaked with fluid and when I wrung it out, appeared to be coolant.


Snipesy said:


> A common failure point is the two hoses which connect to the EGR cooler. These little connector pieces are replaceable.


Source for a good pic or diagram? I see the one and it appears to be ok but can't see a 2nd in the cramped space... but I could be looking right at it and not recognizing it.

At any rate, everything's back together and running and driving but holding off on a force regen until I can source the coolant leak. Again, thanks so much for all the help... your knowledge of these is amazing


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Crap. But didn't think so anyway.
> 
> The hole/cavity left exxposed when you remove the EGR. I had a wadded shop towel stuffed there to prevent things falling/getting in that area while EGR removed. Was soaked with fluid and when I wrung it out, appeared to be coolant.
> 
> ...








Emission Components for 2015 Chevrolet Cruze | GMPartsDirect.com







www.gmpartsdirect.com





#7 and #8 in that diagram are the little connectors which hook onto the coolant pipes.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Back on the CTD after a few long work days. Try a forced regen with BiScan again with same results.... regen initiates, runs 5-6 minutes then ends prematurely with a diesel engine shut down soon msg.

What should my EGT's be reading going in to and during the regen? I'm seeing EGT1 at 240-260, EGT2 270ish and EGT3 starts in the same ballpark but gradually climbs to 640-645 before the shut down msg.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Back on the CTD after a few long work days. Try a forced regen with BiScan again with same results.... regen initiates, runs 5-6 minutes then ends prematurely with a diesel engine shut down soon msg.
> 
> What should my EGT's be reading going in to and during the regen? I'm seeing EGT1 at 240-260, EGT2 270ish and EGT3 starts in the same ballpark but gradually climbs to 640-645 before the shut down msg.





jalias said:


> Back on the CTD after a few long work days. Try a forced regen with BiScan again with same results.... regen initiates, runs 5-6 minutes then ends prematurely with a diesel engine shut down soon msg.
> 
> What should my EGT's be reading going in to and during the regen? I'm seeing EGT1 at 240-260, EGT2 270ish and EGT3 starts in the same ballpark but gradually climbs to 640-645 before the shut down msg.


Huh. And it otherwise runs fine? No other DTC? Like any? Like not even something silly ?


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Other than the P2463 and P144E codes, no, nothing. And yes otherwise it starts runs and drives seemingly fine - but with "reduced engine power". I also keep a close eye on PIDs when attempting the forced regens so for 5-6 minutes and what I can see appears normal. It needs new tires but I don't think that's affecting it 

Do you know what's a normal range for EGT2?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Other than the P2463 and P144E codes, no, nothing. And yes otherwise it starts runs and drives seemingly fine - but with "reduced engine power". I also keep a close eye on PIDs when attempting the forced regens so for 5-6 minutes and what I can see appears normal. It needs new tires but I don't think that's affecting it
> 
> Do you know what's a normal range for EGT2?


above 350C.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Is the EGT 2 sensor the lowest of the 4 that are mounted through the front heat shield?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Is the EGT 2 sensor the lowest of the 4 that are mounted through the front heat shield?


It’s kinda just sticking in the dpf midway. Makes a 90. Not the big boy that’s the O2.

Regardless even EGT1 should be reading higher. So something there is going wrong. Glow plugs or injectors maybe. The 6.6L does use a glow plug to heat the injector so it’s possible the Cruze uses a residual glow as well. Such a process is not documented in the service manual, but it wouldn’t be the first time. No codes though.

Injectors you would think would have some drive ability issues... Failling fuel pump or clogged filter would set off a code....

MAF is an interesting issue. If the MAF reads low it will demand more air. More air is less temps... But you would think that would set off the O2 sensor at least
but it’s possible the active Regen is inhibiting the O2 sensor.... Interesting...

Beyond that I’m at a loss.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

What should EGT 1 be reading? I might need to invest in alldata or a service manual set because I'm missing alot of the tech specifics for this engine.

I was going to pull EGT 2 to test it. What made sense to me was that after force regen initiated and car rev'd to 3k rpm, ECM diagnostics looked for EGT 2 to hit a certain temp by a specified time before it actually started the regen process. When the temp is not reached within that time, it canceled regen request and shut down engine because of low EGT (hence the P144E)

Made sense to me EGT 2 could be at fault given EGT 3 temps were where they should be... I mean if there was a fault further up the process... MAF, fuel, etc... all 3 EGTs would be low wouldn't they?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> What should EGT 1 be reading? I might need to invest in alldata or a service manual set because I'm missing alot of the tech specifics for this engine.
> 
> I was going to pull EGT 2 to test it. What made sense to me was that after force regen initiated and car rev'd to 3k rpm, ECM diagnostics looked for EGT 2 to hit a certain temp by a specified time before it actually started the regen process. When the temp is not reached within that time, it canceled regen request and shut down engine because of low EGT (hence the P144E)
> 
> Made sense to me EGT 2 could be at fault given EGT 3 temps were where they should be... I mean if there was a fault further up the process... MAF, fuel, etc... all 3 EGTs would be low wouldn't they?


during a Regen you should expect EGT 2 to be slightly higher than EGT1. As for how much higher is kind of up in the air and honestly it doesn’t matter if it’s less than EGT1 just as long as it’s in acceptable ranges.

It will be generally more as some unburnt fuel will burn in the DOC while the remaining will collect on the front of the DPF and burn there. Hence why EGT 3 is the highest as at that point, after the DPF, all fuel should have combusted.

The fact EGT3 is actually climbing tell me something is stopping the exhaust stream itself from becoming hot enough. As it needs to be hot else the catalyst and dpf will not be able to burn the fuel optimally. But the injectors themselves are properly dumping fuel and that fuel is making it to the exhaust.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Looking at some old data logs... Exhaust should get progressively hotter for first 5 minutes.

2 minutes after regen start EGT 1 and 2 should be roughly close to each-other around or above 700F / 350 C. EGT 3, doesn't matter at this point but its around 500F or 250C.

From this point EGT2 will start climbing quickly to about 900F / 500C. This will take about another 2 minutes. EGT 3 will be slowly rising but not above EGT2. EGT1 kind of just sits at its 700F to 800F temp.

At around 4-5 minutes EGT 3 will climb past EGT2 to a standard regen temp of somewhere between 600C and 700C. It kind of bobs around a little until regen completes. And then it just cuts off. Doesn't really do any special cool down process.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Finally had some more free time to look in to this. Took a closer look at components to think through the process and gather my thoughts and noticed a couple of "that-aint-right's"... would any of these have a hand in the original problem (failed regen)? Or maybe I should start another thread...

1 - Discovered the EGT 1 sensor location is actually using an EGT 2 sensor part GM55581305 instead of the correct GM55598259. Any difference between the 2 besides maybe cable/connector length?... 

2 - The engine appears to be missing the part in the picture below (maybe vacuum line? marked with "Turbo <-----"). What is this, was it on all models (like not introduced after a specific product date or discontinued), and if it should be there why the heck would someone remove it???

Also don't know why I missed it before but noticed many of the factory connectors are not where they should be, non OEM zip fasteners, etc. Clearly some work was done here before. With what I see moved or altered, it'd have to be a big front component like radiator, radiator fan or even dpf I don't know.

At any rate, any advice is appreciated. Thanks all!


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Finally had some more free time to look in to this. Took a closer look at components to think through the process and gather my thoughts and noticed a couple of "that-aint-right's"... would any of these have a hand in the original problem (failed regen)? Or maybe I should start another thread...
> 
> 1 - Discovered the EGT 1 sensor location is actually using an EGT 2 sensor part GM55581305 instead of the correct GM55598259. Any difference between the 2 besides maybe cable/connector length?...
> 
> ...


That’s the VGT vacuum actuator control. Sometimes incorrectly referred to as wastegate control with the manual.

As you can imagine that’s a very important component and if it was even slightly not working you would get insane under boost error codes.

Having said that a non-OEM vacuum line can be out of spec. A line of the wrong length will cause the vacuum control to not work correctly. It could potentially be the cause of “too much air” like I mentioned earlier. However I fail to see why it wouldn’t set off a DTC.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

As for the EGT that’s really sloppy and I would never have it that way. I don’t know. The sensor itself is likely the same but they go to a computer module which may or may not be the same. One of those modules is on the side of the air box.


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Dude. You aren't going to believe this... ok maybe you will 

Shortly after my last post, I went ahead and pulled both EGT 1 & 2 sensors. I discovered they were installed reversed. And yes they are different... EGT 2 probe is about twice the length of EGT 1. Also, EGT 2 sensor has a female connector end where as EGT 1 has a male connector end. Of course they match up with corresponding male & female connectors on the harness. Can you guess where this is going?

Whatever idiot did last work on this car not only swapped the install location of EGT 1 & 2, they were also connected the only way you could so that meant this whole time the ECM was reading EGT 1 data from 2's location and vice versa.

That would explain the P144E code and hence the regen failure.

I am so friggin HAPPY right now. After wiping off excess soot and reinstalling them correctly, I had an oh so successful forced regen and now sit at 0g soot mass! Took 37 minutes run time but kept a close eye on things the whole process and I am just giddy with the results.

Also kicking myself for not paying closer attention from the start.

And yes there is a simple rubber vacuum line in place of the OEM vacuum actuator control so I'll get that ordered & replaced.

Thanks soooo much for your expert help!


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Glad it was something simple! Sad to see some hack was clearly in there before though. Hopefully they didn't screw anything else up 🤦‍♂️


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> Dude. You aren't going to believe this... ok maybe you will
> 
> Shortly after my last post, I went ahead and pulled both EGT 1 & 2 sensors. I discovered they were installed reversed. And yes they are different... EGT 2 probe is about twice the length of EGT 1. Also, EGT 2 sensor has a female connector end where as EGT 1 has a male connector end. Of course they match up with corresponding male & female connectors on the harness. Can you guess where this is going?
> 
> ...


Jesus... EGT 1 doesn't have the 90 so how did it not get shredded by the fan? My EGT2 came free of its clips and got nicked pretty bad. I can only imagine how bad it will be if they are swapped.


100% at least get the metal portion of the vacuum line. Rubber melts. It may still be there just shoved aside for whatever reason so check for that before you order.






__





2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze Hose 55591707 | GMPartsDirect.com


2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze part # 55591707 - Hose




www.gmpartsdirect.com










__





2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze Hose 55581648 | GMPartsDirect.com


2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze part # 55581648 - Hose




www.gmpartsdirect.com


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## jalias (Jul 2, 2020)

Snipesy said:


> Jesus... EGT 1 doesn't have the 90 so how did it not get shredded by the fan? My EGT2 came free of its clips and got nicked pretty bad. I can only imagine how bad it will be if they are swapped.


They bent it 90...


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

jalias said:


> They bent it 90...


Im sure they were saying “Those stupid GM engineers! Why make a sensor that hits the cooling fan! Idiots!” as they were finagling the pliers too.


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

jalias said:


> They bent it 90...


🤦‍♂️


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## Speedbuff (Mar 24, 2021)

Snipesy said:


> It’s the exact same procedure.
> 
> If you have an OBDLINK Gretio - Automotive Scan Tool - Apps on Google Play Gretio will have a few extra service features such as Reset Cat 1 which can sometimes help. The pid “DPF Regen Inhibit Reason” may shine some light but that’s it. There’s nothing extra with the Dealer tool.
> 
> ...


Can a forced regen be commanded by a typical snap on scan tool-or is this strictly proprietory gm territory?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Speedbuff said:


> Can a forced regen be commanded by a typical snap on scan tool-or is this strictly proprietory gm territory?


The more expensive ones yes.


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