# Trunk Switch WITH rear backup camera



## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

I need to replace the trunk-mounted trunk release switch on my 2014 Diesel. Seems like it should be an easy job, but locating the part has become a bit challenging. The Dorman Part Number 901-166 replacement switch is labeled at most sites with the note "without rear parking camera." I'm not sure why it would be different, but the note seems pretty consistent from site to site, and the Dorman switch is the only one I have been able to locate. 

Has anybody replaced the trunk-mounted trunk release button on their Cruze with the back up camera, and if so what part number did you use? Does anyone know the OEM part number for the switch on a vehicle with a back-up camera or an aftermarket part that is labeled for use with the camera?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

That's a good one. I wouldn't think the Diesel would be that different from a 2LT, but I'm not finding any switch on my go-to place at GM Parts Direct.

I'd think the only difference in the switch between camera and non-camera would be the harness connector.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Is the part just the button or whole assembly?


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

Merc6 said:


> Is the part just the button or whole assembly?


I haven't disassembled it yet to find out. Hoping to have the part in hand rather than take it apart twice.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'll be following this - our switch hasn't worked for a good few months now.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ill ask parts department for a gm #... THEY REQUESTED A VIN SO WE CAN GET A EXACT MATCH


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## 96zed28 (Sep 8, 2014)

My brother has a 2012 and I'm also doing some research on this switch. But as a side note, isn't your 2014 still under warranty?


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

96zed28 said:


> My brother has a 2012 and I'm also doing some research on this switch. But as a side note, isn't your 2014 still under warranty?


Only Powertrain. Bumper-to-Bumper ran out 25,000 miles ago.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

For the benefit of others who might seek this thread out for information. I received the following part numbers from another member in a private message: 

95270498 - OEM part for trunk switch harness WITH backup camera. Includes license plate lights, switch, and (lighting, switch, and camera) connectors as one assembly.

95270497 - OEM part for trunk switch harness withOUT backup camera. Includes license plate lights, switch, and (lighting and switch) connectors as one assembly.

Once I saw how the harness was configured, I chose to attempt the repair using the Dorman 901-166 replacement switch, since it splices onto the harness in place of the old switch, regardless of which harness it is. I hope to get to it one of these weekends before it starts to snow.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Bumping this ollld thread back up - given the proper harness (for backup cam cars) costs $50 and includes the license plate lights, which I do not need, is the Dorman switch the best option (obviously just splicing it into the factory harness)?

It doesn't look "sealed", but I know even the ones that supposedly are could benefit from extra silicone, but I can't figure out where it would want to be applied.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Bumping this ollld thread back up - given the proper harness (for backup cam cars) costs $50 and includes the license plate lights, which I do not need, is the Dorman switch the best option (obviously just splicing it into the factory harness)?
> 
> It doesn't look "sealed", but I know even the ones that supposedly are could benefit from extra silicone, but I can't figure out where it would want to be applied.


I’ve thought doorman as a decent brand so I wouldn’t worry too much.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

MP81 said:


> Bumping this ollld thread back up - given the proper harness (for backup cam cars) costs $50 and includes the license plate lights, which I do not need, is the Dorman switch the best option (obviously just splicing it into the factory harness)?
> 
> It doesn't look "sealed", but I know even the ones that supposedly are could benefit from extra silicone, but I can't figure out where it would want to be applied.


The Dorman switch I installed back when I started this thread has started giving me trouble for the first time after about 4.5 years and 90k miles since replacement. It would intermittently fail to open the trunk over the course of this winter, which I assume was because it had water intrude, then freeze. Then it would thaw out and work again in a day or two. It's presently working, but I have a new one sitting on the shelf that I'll need to install before next winter.

So, maybe consider it an every 4 to 5 year maintenance item, I guess. I'm satisfied with that, since it's such an inexpensive and easy repair, and the spliced-in switch lasted me a year longer than the factory switch did. 

One recommendation I'd make is that if you live in an area where they salt the roads and rust is common, to replace the screws that mount the trim piece to the trunk lid at the same time you're doing the switch, rather than reinstalling with the old screws. I almost destroyed the Philips heads taking it out the first time, so I found some stainless screws at Menards that were the same size. I'll do the same this time, because even though the screws are good enough that I think they'll hold up being removed this time, they're corroded enough that I wouldn't trust them to still be ok when I do this again in 4-5 years at 250k miles.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

So you didn't do any extra measures to "seal" it? 4.5 years for a $15 switch certainly isn't bad at all.


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## Diamond193 (Jul 28, 2019)

Mine hasnt been working for a few months so ive just been using the button on the key fob. Its pretty annoying.


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