# 2013 Cruze LTZ - electrically hosed



## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

My daughter's 2013 Cruze LTZ began intermittently refusing to start and when you push the keyless start button, all power drops except for a check engine light and a clicking relay in the fuse box under the hood. We replaced the negative battery cable, replaced the battery twice, load tested the battery, checked the alternator and checked every ground connection on the body we could find. I swapped out the starter relay and the main power relay in the fuse/relay panel and checked every fuse. Also for about a month when the no start condition was intermittent, she would lose electrical power while driving and get every warning light on the dash plus lose power steering. Now the car simply refuses to start and only half of the electrical system will work. When you push the start button, some systems will power on and it tells you to lower and raise the drivers window but there is no power to the window switches.

I noticed several things online about fuse boxes going bad on the Cruze and I'm considering buying and installing a new one. But I wanted to check this forum and see if there are any ideas of specifically where to look for this kind of failure.

James


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

Sorry for your issues.

I cannot really help, but I'll ask a few questions.

Is there anything plugged into the OBD-II port? If so remove it.

Have you added anything at all the the electrical system? If so check to make sure none of the wiring has been compromised.

Remove and thoroughly clean the positive cable and test it as well. I personally had issues with mine, months after replacing the negative cable.

Consider adding the Big Three cables to improve the grounding system. 

Look for any parasitic draws in the electrical system.

Make sure you have decoupled all bluetooth items completely as coupled items even when not in use will cause a battery drain.

If for some reason you purchase another battery, buy a H7/97R made for the Turbo Diesel. You'll probably have to install it yourself as most places I went to would not as it is not factory for any model except the diesel.


Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


[h=1]HOW TO: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit[/h]
[h=1]Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable[/h]
[h=1]Cruze Battery Upgrade Options[/h]
[h=1]What I've noticed with the battery drain issue (This is not the thread I was looking for, but it references the issue)[/h]


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## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

Thanks for your response.

Nothing is plugged into the ODBII port, nothing has been added or removed from the electrical system, I have cleaned all connections to the positive cable as well as cleaned, tested and tightened all of the large fuses bolted to the positive bus bar that connects to the battery, the positive cable was tested for voltage drop as well as resistance and seems to be good, there never was anything coupled by Bluetooth but the stereo will not power on as of this time.

The Big Three kit might be a solution. I actually simulated the ground side of the big three kit by clipping jumper cables between the negative post of the battery, the body ground studs and the engine block. I didn't do the alternator portion. According to my testing when it would start and run, the alternator was charging within specs and the voltages were normal. I replaced the battery cable after reading some online posts on other sites about the issues with the cables. I had paid for it and installed it before I found out about the TSB and Chevy paying for replacements. Funny how the parts guy at the local Chevy dealership failed to mentions that GM was paying for the cable and installation.

I'm a retired industrial electrician and I've had machines with 10K connections and miles of cable that were less frustrating than this car.

James


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## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

I forgot to mention the battery is not draining, the car just doesn't start or systems turn on. It has been parked for two months while we try to figure out what is going on and the battery is still testing at 97% charged.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

@Robby


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Are you the original owners? I'm real suspicious of this car may have endured a flood in its not too distant past.

You are reporting issues that I have not seen/experienced and also, not seen or reported on this forum.
Yes, there have been some with electrical gremlins, but not of the magnitude you are reporting.

Rob


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## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

No we aren't the original owners. The car was purchased in 2016 from a Chrysler dealer and only had one problem until 6 months ago and that was a turbo bearing failure which GM repaired under some kind of extended warranty because of previous failures or something. I wasn't involved in that episode. Then about 6 months ago it started having failure to start episodes but if you let it sit for a few minuted it would crank and start. Then the failure while driving down the road started with first losing power steering while driving. That is when I got involved with replacing the negative battery cable first.


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## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

The car wasn't titles as a flood recovery or salvaged vehicle and had no accidents or major insurance claims on Carfax.


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## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

That is why I was considering replacing the fuse box assembly. I had ran across some Youtube videos where the poster was reporting various electrical issues like backup lights being on when in park and power windows not working that were fixed by replacing the fuse box. The part is about $200.

James


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Start removing the various control boxes as well as the fuse blocks and look for corrosion at the plug in points.

Car fax is meaningless and easy to circumvent and it is easy to 'wash' a 'Rebuilt' title. There are actually companies that perform the title washing service.......

If you see corrosion in odd places (seat frames and unpainted dash board supports are good starting points) you know 'they' got you.
Also, check the unibody frame rails.....the folks that 'restore' flood cars generally do not take the time to wash mud out of the rails......you check by putting a finger in the various holes under there searching for mud in places it would not normally be found.

You may have a good car with a bunch of gremlins......I'm just pointing out the possibility since there have been so many flood damaged, title washed cars getting put back on the street......often without the selling dealers knowledge.
These are usually purchassed by dealers at auction.

Rob


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## jlrice54 (Dec 9, 2018)

Thanks for the pointers. It gives me a starting point.

James


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

This sure sounds like a power distribution problem. But you've taken care of the common culprits. It's time to look elsewhere.

I'd start by inspecting the high-power fuse box that's mounted on top of the battery. Make sure the thick "straps" (they're actually high current fuses) aren't developing any cracks that could lead to an intermittent connection. And all the connections and solid and don't show any signs of overheating. 

Second, I'd inspect the BCM - the Body Control Module. It's the computer that runs the whole show - including the power windows. IIRC, it's located inside behind the right kick panel on the passenger side. Because it's mounted so low, it's susceptible to flood damage.

You said you replaced the negative cable on the battery, but you might want to look at that small wire. It goes to the BCM so it can monitor the battery voltage. I'm not sure, but it may be the power return for the BCM, so if it's damaged, it could result in a very confused BCM.

Lastly, you might want to look at this video below. While that mechanic says it's common, based on this forum, it's pretty rare. But something to consider. If nothing else, I'd take the top of the fusebox off and examine the connectors as well as the battery connection. The lid indicates that it shouldn't be pressure washed, but who knows what was done by the folks cleaning up the car for sale. What really gets my attention is the mention of power window problems. The backup lights suggests a confused BCM.






At any rate, I think you have the tools and experience to get this fixed. Good luck.


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