# 2013 1.4 loss of power on acceleration.



## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

50k miles
no engine codes

last two mornings have been cold and on my way to work while accelerating, the RPMS go up and the engines is turning but my acceleration is slow. Ive owned the car for 43k miles so I know they are slow to begin with but not this slow. Almost like the turbo isnt working or something. Its lost all the little umph that it had. 

When leaving work yesterday the acceleration came back but this morning it was gone again. what gives?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Sounds like something's throwing it into limp mode. Scan for codes - you may have a P0299 (turbo underboost) code pending; it is beginning to be relatively common with age.


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## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

you were correct, i just ran the codes and it has 2 pending. which i didn't even know codes could pend.

p0324 knock control system error
p0325 knock snesor 1 circuit

Im now starting to question my choice of 87 octane fuel. Any other causes?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

dmiller369 said:


> you were correct, i just ran the codes and it has 2 pending. which i didn't even know codes could pend.
> 
> p0324 knock control system error
> p0325 knock snesor 1 circuit


Not what I expect, but yes, it takes multiple occurrences of a code through drive cycles to flag the CEL.

Those codes are likely either a bad sensor or corrosion on the plug to those sensors. They are mounted low on the engine block under the intake manifold I believe.


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## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

the sensor failing is more probable then me using 87 oct fuel?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

dmiller369 said:


> the sensor failing is more probable then me using 87 oct fuel?


87 octane shouldn't throw knock sensor codes. The car should be able to run that without issue (knock sensor will pull timing, sure, but that's what it's programmed to do).


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Try to keep in mind a 'Pending Code' is something the computer saw once......if it was continual, a SES light would be on and it would be a hard code.

Generally, pending codes just hang in the memory until enough drive cycles occur without another occurrence.

Rob


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## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

Robby said:


> Try to keep in mind a 'Pending Code' is something the computer saw once......if it was continual, a SES light would be on and it would be a hard code.
> 
> Generally, pending codes just hang in the memory until enough drive cycles occur without another occurrence.
> 
> Rob


so you are saying this might not even be the reason i went into limp mode?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

dmiller369 said:


> so you are saying this might not even be the reason i went into limp mode?


Or it could be. If it flags the code again in a drive cycle (and you didn't clear it), it will be enough for the CEL to flag.


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## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

My code is now confirmed but the CEL comes on and off. P0324 seems to be the primary code. i have also got a pending p0325.

I cannot for the life of me locate this sensor from the top side. Also are there 1 or 2 of these sensors? I have googled it ALOT. I will be purchasing this sensor today after work and attempting to locate it again. Any help would be great.

also my injects are very very loud. This is suppose to be normal. Any way to make it more quiet?


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## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

SOLUTION: I was sent this picture after I had already located it but I hope this helps others later on who search. Item 3 below is the knock sensor. There is only one. It cannot be see from the top side of the engine bay. It is on the backside of the engine and reachable from underneath the car when its on jacks. I used a 10mm ratcheting wrench. It is not easily visible but it can been seen near the starter. Sensor cost 25.00 and less than 10 min. to replace once the car was up on stands. This solved my problem. I was getting codes: P0324 P0325. I had a large loss of power and an intermittent CEL. Sensors connection was tight. When replacing i would unbolt sensor first and then disconnect harness.

EDIT: I THOUGHT THIS FIXED MY PROBLEM BUT IT DID NOT. >> SEE NEXT POST


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## dmiller369 (Jul 24, 2014)

I replaced the sensor while the car was somewhat warm. I cleared the codes and drove for almost 50 mi with no issues. Once the engine cooled down and was started the next morning, The CEL came back on almost immediately.

This pointed me again to my engine oil. I checked the oil and it was full. The oil gauge life was 41% and I use full synthetic. 

REAL SOLUTION: I ended up replacing the oil even although it should of been ok. I have yet to get another knock. I hope i didnt cause excessive ware on my engine. I will no longer trust the algorithum and just replace every 4-6k mi.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

dmiller369 said:


> I replaced the sensor while the car was somewhat warm. I cleared the codes and drove for almost 50 mi with no issues. Once the engine cooled down and was started the next morning, The CEL came back on almost immediately.
> 
> This pointed me again to my engine oil. I checked the oil and it was full. The oil gauge life was 41% and I use full synthetic.
> 
> REAL SOLUTION: I ended up replacing the oil even although it should of been ok. I have yet to get another knock. I hope i didnt cause excessive ware on my engine. I will no longer trust the algorithum and just replace every 4-6k mi.


Drive a few hundred miles first before say never. Then you can say your problem was solved. 

the only thing i don't like about the longevity of today's change intervals. Is all the gas building up in the oil. Being a retired auto mechanic that also did emissions. I'd see tons of cars fail emissions because of a long over due oil change. Clean oil usually got em to pass.


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## jbell370 (Feb 7, 2018)

Hi there, I have the same issue here. I have always ran Ultra 94 and Saturday when out I had no option but to get 87. The car ran fine that day and Sunday, given I didnt drive much. Once Monday came a whole new story. Have the hesitation, high RPMs and of knock sensor codes and knock sensor circuit. I took it back to the dealer as it was there last week for plugs and cam shaft seal (oil on the ground) never had an issue with this car at all. I am at 218,000 KM. Dealer said no point throwing parts at it, so I picked it up, added more fuel in hopes of diluting the 'bad gas'. We will see how it goes.


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

Unless you're running on a 100+F day (or night), in the middle of winter, the knock sensor shouldn't be going off.
Even then, it dials back.
it could be something is dragging inside the engine.
Could be a metal flake, could be just about anything, that's causing your cruze to knock.

check your tire pressure, with the new oil and knock sensor done there's no reason it should be on, unless you're trying to floor the pedal at below 2k RPM?
Higher octane fuel could help reduce the knock, but it probably won't get rid of the underlying problem.


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## jbell370 (Feb 7, 2018)

So my ticking time bomb has not changed and no satisfaction from the dealer that did the work, $1578 of work. I am thinking tomorrow I will pull the plugs and check the gap and see what is going on. I would have thought however that if it was the plugs it would have occurred sooner than the Monday. I cant help but think if not the plugs then something went on when they replaced the seal. I have no power at all, having to drive in manual mode and codes are knock sensor and knock sensor circuit, makes sense as the ticking is as loud as can be.


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## redhouse (May 25, 2017)

I'm interested to see how this turns out. I also have a 2013 Cruze w/ 56k. A bit of background: Just last week I noticed when I was accelerating to merge onto the interstate that it seemed like it was cutting out or losing power as it was progressing through the gears. Once I got up to speed I didn't notice it that much. Drove for about 10 highway miles and parked it while I was doing my work. When I came out I noticed that it had leaked quite a bit of something, which turned out to be antifreeze. I started it up and noticed a fairly prominent ticking sound that I had heard previously, but not quite as loud. I also noticed the check engine light was on. 

I took it to O'Reily's and had them run the code which came back at P0324. At this point I added some dex cool and drove it to a mom and pop shop a couple blocks away. They got me in the next day and called me at work to let me know the water pump was shot. I found the service bulletin for that and took it to the dealership where they replaced the water pump under warranty. Before the trip to the dealership at the mom and pop shop I had them change the oil (full synthetic for the life of the car) and air filter and they suggested running a bottle of fuel system cleaner (I think it was bg 44k), which they added. I took it to the dealership and left it there for the weekend until they could get to it Monday. 

I expected the dealership to give it a once over and let me know if anything seemed out of the ordinary. They did try to sell me a battery which I declined and told them I would handle on my own. But they didn't mention anything about abnormal engine noise or ticking. I picked up the car and drove it about 80 miles averaging about 75-80mph hoping it would get the fuel system cleaner flowing through the system. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.

But today I notice even more lagging and intermittent acceleration. I then also noticed the check engine light was back. I had the code scanned and sure enough it's the P0324 again. I have not finished the tank of gas that has the fuel system cleaner in it yet (40% left). I'm not sure where to take it at this point. Do I ignore the code and finish running through the tank of gas w/ the cleaner? Do I top off the gas tank with some better fuel? I have been going to Costco for fuel almost exclusively since last Oct, using 87. Could I be getting bunk gas from them?? 

This seems like enough of a match to the OPs issue that I felt this was appropriate to add to this thread. Not trying to hijack. Any suggestions or info would be much appreciated!


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## jbell370 (Feb 7, 2018)

Welcome to my nightmare, you will have to let me know if you continue to have the issue and if it gets worse. I have and always run 94, that is not the issue, I have done 2 oil changes and for brief 50km the noise gets a little more quiet and the engine light goes off, this is short lived however as the noise returns as does the engine light. One day last week I had stopped by one of my work offices expecting to run in and out, I left the car to idle and ended up taking about 20 minutes, low and behold when I walked outside I thought the car had stalled, not a sound could be heard and sure enough the light was off. I drove the car the balance of the day and it ran like it always used too prior to the seals being replaced. That evening however, I started the car and once again the ticking returned along with the hesitation and surging sure enough 324 again. 

I have not been able to repeat the idle process although I have tried, I am more so thinking that it is a lifter or lifters, not sure why right after the cam seals were done this happened and still not sure why the dealership would not offer any explanation nor even to take a look. So I figure it is time to take the valve cover off and have a look at the lifters, not me of course as I read that you need a special GM kit or something in order to replace the lifters, I also hear that it take approx 4 hours. At this point I just want my car to run as it did before. I will be taking it to another garage, not the dealership who seems to have no interest in repairing it.


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## redhouse (May 25, 2017)

So after another week of intermittent of what I'm assuming are more P0324 codes and sporadic issues accelerating I kept up with my google sleuthing.

After perusing through this link: http ://bestride.com/engine-trouble-codes/P0324 I have a feeling I know what's going on. I take it in to a local shop tomorrow to find out.

When the car was at the dealership getting the water pump replaced I was under the impression that a) the replacement was going to fix what was triggering the check engine light or b) a dealership would perform a basic once-over check (including scanning for any codes) that would bring the issue to light. 

One thing that they did note when they called me to try and sell me a battery was that they "removed a critter nest" that had been built somewhere under the hood. I didn't think much of it at the time but reading through the link above I think it makes perfect sense now. I have some wiring somewhere in there that has been chewed up and spit out and there's a bad connection causing my sporadic acceleration issues and/or P0324s! At least, that's my theory.

I'm hoping this will resolve my issue and if it turns out to be the case that the damage to the wiring isn't extensive...


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## jbell370 (Feb 7, 2018)

I had the water pump done as well many months back when my oil line to the turbo went, no issue with that. I did yesterday against advice from many stop and pick up a bottle of Rislone Nano Synthetic and poured that in, within 1-2 minutes my obnoxious ticking faded away and after driving half way home it was gone completely. I took the Cruze for a ride last night and low and behold my engine light has turned itself off, obviously the knock sensor is doing its job as no tick no light. I have driven 250-300km since yesterday afternoon and so far so good, I hope the ticking is gone, if not then it is engine repair time.

I feel for your nest issue, my good friend has a Nissan Pathfinder and for some reason every squirrel in the area will run past vehicles and head for his, twice this past summer repairs of $800 and $1200 they just love his wiring. He has tried musk and various other scents however none have helped, he ended up cleaning out his garage and now parks there, it was truly funny to watch them run around other cars and head for his truck.


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## redhouse (May 25, 2017)

So the valve cover has been replaced as well as the knock sensor. Still having all of the same issues. Everything will run perfectly for a while and then all of a sudden the ticking is louder and I have the issues with intermittent loss of power while accelerating. usually shortly after the power issues the CEL will come back on. Every time I've had it checked it has been the P0324 knock code. 

I'm taking it into the dealership Monday to have them do diagnostics. I'm hoping they'll tell me whatever the issue is is covered under the powertrain warranty which is still good through October. From the googling and reading I've done I'm leaning toward this being an issue with the hydraulic lifters. 

Couple of questions regarding the powertrain warranty. If it is the hydraulic lifters would that be covered under the powertrain warranty? Also, would they replace all the lifters as some suggest is the best practice as the part is cheap but the labor is costly? My other question: Is a faulty valve cover that requires replacement covered under the powertrain warranty? I've read in some places people have gotten that covered. I took my Cruze into a local shop and they replaced it there. Would I be able to get reimbursed for something like that?

Thanks for any info you all might have.


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## Younggchris2 (May 30, 2018)

Ive got a major issue with my 2013 Chevy Cruze. Since I bought it(used @ 69kmi) I would drive it for a few weeks, sometimes a month or two, before one day after driving I’ll park it and it just locks up, key stuck in the ignition and all power gone.. nothing from attempt to start up, unless I would get it towed or jumped. When I’d get it jumped it would take a few minutes for the power to come back on and car to start. That is the primary issue I’ve been coming across since purchase, but what’s also been happening is I’ll lose all power for a few seconds while I’m driving. Pretty scary. I’ve taken it to the dealership a hand full of times and I’ll say them mfs are good for nothing but trying to get more money out of you; all they did was diagnose new problems.... many which I knew were not even there! Beyond ridiculous!!If anybody has any suggestions or a solution PLEASE let me know!! Thank you!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Replace the battery. Those are all symptoms of a failing battery.


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