# Multiple Electrical Issues



## McNeo (Dec 17, 2013)

Interesting. Still under warranty? I'd bring her in. Everything in these cars is controlled by a computer, even your signals (there's no flasher relay for them).


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## Omen87 (Jul 19, 2013)

McNeo said:


> Interesting. Still under warranty? I'd bring her in. Everything in these cars is controlled by a computer, even your signals (there's no flasher relay for them).


Nope. I'm at 42,7xx. I had to have the 6MT replaced under warranty around 36k. I'm wondering if something didn't get hooked back up or routed quite right. Or it's possible the battery has an internal fault I suppose.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Check your battery grounds, as they are known to have issues, and can cause these strange happenings.


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

I have a few thoughts on your topic.

- The temperature will redisplay after a few hours. It needs time to recalibrate. If it doesn't pop back up then move on to my next thought

- Bad BCM or ECU. There have been a few replaced. If under warranty it's covered

- Like Dragonsys said, the ground cable has been known to be a weak point in this car. You can always do a big 3 upgrade but I would check other factors before throwing parts at the car.

- A bad alternator may not be charging the system correctly and therefore the voltage is dropping causing the system to constantly reset or act funny (bad grounds can cause this too)

- A bad battery that won't hold a charge can be the culprit as well if it isn't properly powering the electrical components.

You can have the battery tested at any autostore for free. Under warranty, don't wait, take it in!


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Omen87 said:


> Alright, yesterday my '11 Eco started to lose its mind. The first thing I noticed was I went to make a turn and my right front turn signal was out. OK, no big deal, I'll stop by a get a new bulb. Well, when I went to take the bulb out It looked perfectly fine. So I switched the left and right bulbs. Lo and behold the RF blinker still didn't work and the LF still did. Now I'm starting to get worried. I get in my car to leave and my blower motor doesn't work. WTF. Not on any speed whatsoever. The center display showed my changes, but no fan. Check the 40A fuse and it's fine. Now I'm starting to get frustrated. I get to a friends house later and pull up behind their car and see my DRLs are not on. Alright...starting to lose my cool. Both headlights are out, still no RF blinker, no running lights in my LR taillamp, and no reverse lights. My buddy comes over and starts poking around in the underhood electrical box, prodding at wires, and I see my headlights flicker on. Then I close the driver door and everything pops back on. What. The. ****. I can't find a loose connection anywhere. There is the tiniest bit of corrosion on my positive battery terminal. Drive home park it for the night.
> 
> Get up this morning and it seems to be fine. But I pull into the driveway and disconnect the battery and clean the terminals spotless. Reconnect everything, fires up everything is working. Or so I think. Look down at my DIC...something's changed. My instantaneous fuel economy is now reading in gal/hr instead of MPG. I figure it got changed to imperial when the battery was disconnected. Nope. Still on US. I switch it to imperial and back to US. Still gal/hr. All the numbers were saved though. It still knew my average fuel economy, trip odometers, average speed, everything. Then I look over at the stereo to reset the clock. Where the **** is the temperature? It's blank. Nothing there at all.
> 
> So now here I am, hoping that someone has had their Cruze start to lose its marbles like this and have a solution.


Hello Omen87,

I am truly sorry that your Cruze is experiencing these issues! I would be happy to look into further and document your concerns. Please send a PM with your VIN, current mileage, contact info and a preferred dealership, and I can definitely assist. Hope to hear from you soon.

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Battery or battery cables would be my first guess.


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## Omen87 (Jul 19, 2013)

Well today I went by my local O'Reilly Auto Parts and used their Autometer starting/charging system tester. It passed the battery, 115A draw on starting, and the alternator is charging great. Tomorrow morning I'm going to get my DVOM out and start checking grounds and cleaning them and whatnot. Also going to do some voltage drop tests across both the power and ground cables. I didn't have any issues today except for when I was leaving work. I go to work at 2:30 and leave at 11 so the car sits for almost 9 hours. When I unlocked it I could see as I was walking up my left rear taillights flickering and the headlights flashing on and off momentarily. It does it somewhat rapidly, then slows and stops within about 20 seconds. By the time I get in it and start it there aren't any issues. So I'm at a bit of a loss at the moment. I'm out of basic warranty, so I doubt it would be covered under anything else.


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## Omen87 (Jul 19, 2013)

Well after disconnecting and cleaning every chassis ground I could find under the hood I thought I had solved my issue. But I was wrong. It did it again last night, lasted long enough that I could get the hood open and poke around. What kicked everything back on was giving the fusible link block a good smack. So, now I guess I'm going to attempt to clean all my positive connections and see if it helps at all.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

There have been a few users than had a strange combo if electrical issues that needed the entire underhood fuse block replaced to fix, sounds like your loose connection/problem may be in that area.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Omen87 said:


> Well after disconnecting and cleaning every chassis ground I could find under the hood I thought I had solved my issue. But I was wrong. It did it again last night, lasted long enough that I could get the hood open and poke around. What kicked everything back on was giving the fusible link block a good smack. So, now I guess I'm going to attempt to clean all my positive connections and see if it helps at all.


Hey Omen,

I apologize that your continuing to experience these electrical concerns with your Cruze. If you would like any assistance into your dealership, I would be happy to do so. They may be able to find the cause and come up with the right solution. Let me know in a private message! 

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Omen87 (Jul 19, 2013)

spacedout said:


> There have been a few users than had a strange combo if electrical issues that needed the entire underhood fuse block replaced to fix, sounds like your loose connection/problem may be in that area.


I was outside for less than 10 minutes and found my problem.

The #1 auxiliary fusible link is fried:









Along with the cable:









And it started to melt the holder:









I'm out of my basic warranty. Will this get covered by anything else? The car was built 5/11. I'm at 38 months and 42,xxx miles. Unless this gets thrown under emissions or powertrain I'm probably going to end up footing the bill.

_EDIT:_ After further testing, that fusible link shows 0.2 ohms resistance. So basically still a perfect connection.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

I'd be looking at the resistance the cable has.....the stud and link damage are the result of resistance, not the cause......unless the stud was loose.....my money is on the cable itself though.

Rob


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## Omen87 (Jul 19, 2013)

Robby said:


> I'd be looking at the resistance the cable has.....the stud and link damage are the result of resistance, not the cause......unless the stud was loose.....my money is on the cable itself though.
> 
> Rob


That cable feeds the instrument panel fuse box. I just pulled out my IP fuse box and tested the cable: 0.3 ohms. So either the stud came loose or....I don't know what else. No blown fuses anywhere to indicate an overload damaged it.


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