# Disc Italia Cermanic Brake Pads



## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

I'm starting to look for new fronts brakes as I'm about to pass the 30K mileage point. Anyone heard of disc italia brakes? I did a google search and found a lot of positive reviews with Chrysler people. 

Any suggestions for ceramic pads? I'm not a fan of EBC as I have had bad experiences with them. 

As for rotors, I'll probably go with the basic Centric Premium rotor. I wish Brembo made an OEM replacement for the cruze but they don't.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Here you go: www.*disc*-*italia*.com/Ceramic*Brake*Pads.aspx I located the website but at work so no time to research further


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

I saw that and all look good to me - just nervous because I have never heard of this brand before and I can't find any other cruzers with these pads.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Just my $0.02, ceramic pads on a car that wont see north of 160mph is a complete waste of your money, and I'm here to explain why.

Ceramic pads have less bite/braking power as non ceramic, which means that you will actually lose braking power compared to a decent quality non ceramic. The main function of ceramic pads is that they manage heat MUCH better than non-ceramic, which is why you see them on all the crazy top of the line sports cars, because when you're braking from high speeds you need brakes that wont fade.

Now, as for what pads you should buy, I HIGHLY recommend Hawk HP or HP Plus pads if you really use your brakes.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Smurfenstein said:


> Just my $0.02, ceramic pads on a car that wont see north of 160mph is a complete waste of your money, and I'm here to explain why.
> 
> Ceramic pads have less bite/braking power as non ceramic, which means that you will actually lose braking power compared to a decent quality non ceramic. The main function of ceramic pads is that they manage heat MUCH better than non-ceramic, which is why you see them on all the crazy top of the line sports cars, because when you're braking from high speeds you need brakes that wont fade.
> 
> Now, as for what pads you should buy, I HIGHLY recommend Hawk HP or HP Plus pads if you really use your brakes.


The standard pads that come on the car are ceramic (Akebono). 

Generally people like ceramic because they're low-dust, don't fade too much, and don't make noise. At the same time, they don't grip as strongly as semi metallic. 

Hawks are very grippy but they're messy, noisy, and have a crap lifespan. 


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

I don't mean to thread jack, but would the ceramic pads help from warping the rotors or build up on the rotors? I have Hawk HPS pads on my Wife's Cruze, and they weren't any better than the stock ones. Her brakes are shaking again. She drives over two mountains every day that require ALOT of braking because there long slopes, and her car doesn't hold itself back at all.

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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Daryl said:


> I don't mean to thread jack, but would the ceramic pads help from warping the rotors or build up on the rotors? I have Hawk HPS pads on my Wife's Cruze, and they weren't any better than the stock ones. Her brakes are shaking again. She drives over two mountains every day that require ALOT of braking because there long slopes, and her car doesn't hold itself back at all.
> 
> Sent from my Droid Ultra


Yes, but you should look into larger rotors to help dissipate the heat off a larger surface area. Also look into a different brand of rotors than stock AC Delco ones - they're junk. 



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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Warped rotors are a myth. Plain and simple.
It's just pads that where not properly bedded. 

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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Zach.K said:


> Warped rotors are a myth. Plain and simple.
> It's just pads that where not properly bedded.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Not improperly bedded, but have baked onto the surface of the rotor from stopping hard and leaving the pads in contact with the surface of the rotor. 

Warped rotors CAN happen, but it's usually from hitting a puddle with very hot brakes. 


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

The rotors I went with were EBC with the Hawk pads. They were properly bedded. I followed Hawk's instructions to the letter. Does anyone make a kit for bigger rotors?

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## dsmskyline (Mar 21, 2014)

ZZP makes a bolt on 12" brake kit. Utilizes 12" rotors and 2 piston calipers.

replacement rotors would need to be redrilled for the cruze bolt pattern or purchased from ZZP.


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

dsmskyline said:


> ZZP makes a bolt on 12" brake kit. Utilizes 12" rotors and 2 piston calipers.
> 
> replacement rotors would need to be redrilled for the cruze bolt pattern or purchased from ZZP.



Thanks for the info, I will be looking into this.

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## Wyre (Jul 23, 2011)

Personally I have been using Centric brake parts for ages. I highly recommend the Cryo treated steel rotors and the Centric Posi-Quiet ceramic pads.


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Since we're on the topic, I don't want to highjack, but it falls in line with what you're asking. EBC Brakes USR Series USR1747 - Disc Brake Rotor | O'Reilly Auto Parts These are the ones I've been considering. Couple questions. First, are slotted or cross drilled better and why. Second, do these rotors stay black through their lifespan, seems silly but I like the look of the black rotors. Finally, ceramic or non ceramic with slotted/cross drilled rotors?


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Finally had a chance to come back to this thread - stay away from slotted and/or cross drilled. They're terrible for daily drivers. 

As for ceramic pads versus others, I have done a lot of testing (not on the cruze though) with versus types of materials and I really like ceramic. Yes, they don't have the best initial bite but once warmed up, they grip nicely and the fade is minimal through the life of the pad. Additionally, they're low dust.


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## Ger8mm (Mar 13, 2014)

> cross drilled. They're terrible for daily drivers.


not all the time, they were perfect for my truck hahaha


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Yes all the time. Unless you have a track truck.


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

giantsnation said:


> Yes all the time. Unless you have a track truck.


Nope

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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

What's wrong with slotted/dimpled? I've had them on my pickup, and never had a problem with them getting hot, shaking, and fading on the mountains like I have with just plain rotors.

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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Daryl said:


> What's wrong with slotted/dimpled? I've had them on my pickup, and never had a problem with them getting hot, shaking, and fading on the mountains like I have with just plain rotors.
> 
> Sent from my Droid Ultra


There is nothing wrong with slotted/dimpled rotors, aside from lower pad life. In terms of braking power they work wonders by improving initial bite, however it comes as a cost of pad life as with more bite, comes more wear. This is why most people will steer (lol) away from slotted/dimpled as it means replacing pads more often for a slight increase in breaking bite/performance.

@Germ: They are terrible for daily drivers, and here's why (instead of simply noting anecdotal evidence);

Drilled rotors are, exactly as they're written, drilled rotors. This means that after the rotor is made and cured, they drill into it countless times. Now this creates a neat effect where air is allowed to freely move in/around the rotor face, allowing the brakes to cool faster and take longer to build up heat. However by drilling into a metal object, you weaken the overall integrity of the object, thus making the rotor prone to cracking, which has been known to happen before the rotor face is worn away through braking.

Now, as for your truck, I have no doubt that they were wonderful, amazing brakes, because cool brakes on a daily vehicle will never see overheat gitter or brake fade. Its like having a 500whp car and only using 200 of that power. It will do its job, and it will do it very well, however you are still risking rotor cracking, and with holes in the surface, the rotor then becomes the equivalent of a slotted/dimpled rotor in terms of pad wear.


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

:idisagree:Not 100% correct. You guys want the truth from an engineers point of view. 

First and foremost, the purpose of the brake rotor is as a surface for the friction compound (brake pad to act upon) and as a heatsink. The brakes slow down/stop the car simply by converting kinetic energy into heat energy by means of friction. The reason rotors are big heavy things is because they need to be able to absorb the energy in the form of heat. The main reason for Big Brake Kits is not really to increase braking torque (how much force the brakes can retard wheel rotation with) but simply to install bigger rotors that can handle more heat. If you wanted to increase braking torque ONLY, you could do that simply by using higher friction coefficient (known as Mu) brake pads. On street tires, all that would do is make it easier to lock up your wheels when braking.

 How well a brake system (not looking at the brake pads yet) handles heat is affected by how much heat the rotors can absorb and also how quickly they dissipate the heat they do absorb. The more mass, the more heat they can absorb, the better the airflow over and through the rotor, the more effectively the rotor can transfer that heat to the ambient air flowing over it.

 Vented rotors make use of this by increasing the surface area and airflow and directionally vented rotors are even more effective. A vented or directionally vented rotor acts in a similar fashion to an impeller blade/wheel (like a turbo compressor or hairdryer). The spinning action forces air outwards from the center and it induces airflow through the rotor with cold air being sucked in at the center and the hot air being flung out the edges. Vented rotors dissipate heat much better than non-vented rotors and directionally vented rotors improve the effectiveness.

 Crossdrilling on the other hand does NOT show appreciable cooling differences when in use. They will help cool the rotor qucker when the car is stopped and sitting but they actually REDUCE the heat capacity of the braking system when the car is being driven hard maing the brakes actually run a little hotter. So you're thinking, "Wait a minute,... say what? If increasing surface area means better heat dissipation, then more holes means more surface area, so it should help at least a bit right?" Wrong.

 The crossdrilled holes do not act the same as the vented passages in the rotor. The venting is radial to the rotation and draws air through the vanes. the cross drilled holes are axial to rotation. The difference in airflow when you're blowing through a straw (the vented vanes) as opposed to blowing across the hole of the straw is huge. Now you're thinking, yeah, but they use devices like paint guns that work by drawing paint out of the bottle by blowing compressed air over the thin tube. Well, you're talking about Bernoulli's principle here. 

 Fast moving air has lower pressure than slow moving or stagnant air. The fast moving air over the tube is at lower pressure than the air in the spray gun bottle so the higher pressure pushes paint out and Voila, you're apinting your car/house/whatever. The principle doesn't work when the air is moving fast over both ends of the tube (in this case, the hole drilled through the rotor. There is no significant airflow through those holes when the rotor is spinning and any airflow is FAR less tha the airflow through the vanes in a vented rotor. Ah... now you see,... but wait, wasn't there a mention of higher temps due to cross-drilling? Even if the airflow is minimal in the drilled holes, why would it cause higher temps? Because it reduces the mass of the rotor, thus reducing it's capacity for absorbing heat.

 What happens when you use your brakes hard? Well the brakes get hot obviously. But what would a brake rotor temperature chart look like? Well, upon first application of the brakes, the temp rise is very rapid and increase as long as the brakes are applied and the wheels are still turning (friction still producing more heat). then when you let off the brakes, the temps level out and start to drop. They drop faster if the car is stil moving since there's more air flowing over the rotors, but they don't completely cool off that rapidly. if you're driving hard and braking a lot, the rotors never cool off, but each subsequent braking event adds more heat to the rotor potentially before it can dissipate it. This is where rotor size and thermal capacity comes in.

 if you plan on driving hard and doing a lot of hard braking, you need to make sure you have enough rotor mass to absorb all that heat because if you don't, you could exceed the thermal capacity of the rotors to act as heatsinks. When that happens, your rotors simply can't dissipate the heat as fast as you're putting them into the rotors and since any guven material of a set mass has a specific thermal capacity, once you reach this point, the rotor cannot efficiently absorb the heat anymore and the brake rotor and pad temperatures will rise very rapidly with each application of the brakes. The temps shoot up fast and high enough to easily exceed the MOT (maximum operating temp) of the brake pads and you get pad fade. You can also get things so hot that it boils the brake fluid in the calipers and this is also where it's possible to actually warp rotors. You can identify a rotor that has really been warped. It changes color. You'll see a bluish boundary somwhere between the rotor and hat as the heat at that point changes the molecular structure of the metal. The heat stress is visible. 

 Cross-drilling = less mass, = less capacity to absorb heat before this point is reached. when you're running close to the edge of the thermal capacity, the brake system will be consistently a little hotter because it's easier to push the system with less mass and thermal capacity over the edge.

 There's also the problem that cross-drilling causes stress risers on the rotors. coupled with the thermal expansion that occurs during braking and repeated hard use, the holes make it much easier to develop deep stress cracks in the rotors. There's a reason NO race team that uses iron rotors has cross-drilled rotors. They use either plain or slotted rotors. The cross-drilling simply reduces the thermal capacity AND weakens the rotor courting the possibility of failure from stress cracks actually leading to a fragged rotor.*
*


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## stamas (Mar 7, 2014)

My brakes on my car are not that great , and my car only has 8000 km , I think it's to do with the 16 inch rim and big side wall just havering 18 inch low profiles would improve my braking dramatically , but my ride would be compromised and suspension components would wear quicker ,


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## 14cruze1.4 (Oct 7, 2013)

Smurfenstein said:


> Just my $0.02, ceramic pads on a car that wont see north of 160mph is a complete waste of your money, and I'm here to explain why.
> 
> Ceramic pads have less bite/braking power as non ceramic, which means that you will actually lose braking power compared to a decent quality non ceramic. The main function of ceramic pads is that they manage heat MUCH better than non-ceramic, which is why you see them on all the crazy top of the line sports cars, because when you're braking from high speeds you need brakes that wont fade.
> 
> Now, as for what pads you should buy, I HIGHLY recommend Hawk HP or HP Plus pads if you really use your brakes.


Just to clear up a bit about ceramics, its not that they "handle" heat better they dont bite the rotor untill a certain temperature. they more so silp on the face and dont do anything. thats why non ceramics are better for stopping unless like you said youre slowing down from a high speed. 
also there is no brake fade with disc brakes. thats a drum brake thing. as a drum heats up its fades away from the brake lining and then loses braking force. a disc as it heats up expands and pushes into the pads actually increasing the brake force.


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## stamas (Mar 7, 2014)

14cruze1.4 said:


> there is no brake fade with disc brakes. thats a drum brake thing. as a drum heats up its fades away from the brake lining and then loses braking force. a disc as it heats up expands and pushes into the pads actually increasing the brake force.


What he said ! I'm sure the fade you will get will be the brake fluid boiling or the pads melting ( breaking down )


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

So I take it dimpled, and drilled are no different as far as causing stress cracks?

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Yes just as bad. Read my prior post.


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Hey who is the engineer you're quoting? I can only find it as some Max at 3si.org (3000gt forum). Would be nice to finish that read. 

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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

giantsnation said:


> Yes just as bad. Read my prior post.


That's what I figured. I always preferred just the slots anyhow, but couldn't find those to put on my Silverado.

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Zach.K said:


> Hey who is the engineer you're quoting? I can only find it as some Max at 3si.org (3000gt forum). Would be nice to finish that read.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


my friend is an engineer for GE but he used to work for a company that developed amongst other things brake materials. That meant countless hours of testing or driving around in a brand new Tahoe and slamming on the brakes from 75mph. 

His explanation was even more in depth which why I only posted a piece from another site. Sorry I meant to include the link - Cross-Drilled Rotors Myth - Xtreme Import Performance


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

If you go up a page from extreme import, it states that write up was taken from 3si.org. so the extreme link is not where it originated. I'm curious to see where that write up came from. 



> -This is something important that everyone should know and understand.
> It is a post made by a very knowledgeable user on 3si.org about
> cross-drilled rotors
> Cross-Drilled Rotors Myth


Knowledgeable user does not necessarily equal engineer. 
Now I appreciate this write up but so far it is just a well written piece with little documentation. I can appreciate you have a friend who works in the field but I find opinions on brakes vary to greatly to be satisfied by one well written article that has only circulated the net with no substantiation. 

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Not opinion this is fact. My friend verified and agreed with everything stated - I actually confirmed with him.


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

With lack of substantiation though. You're just telling me a buddy of yours(unnamed, no credentials) states this to be fact. Sorry but however a great read it's nothing more then that without documentation. 

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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

I've been reading nothing, but good reviews on the Disc Italia slotted rotors, and pads. I'm giving them a shot on my Wife's Cruze next time minus the ceramic pads. Nothing else has worked so why not give them a shot. I've had great luck with slotted before.

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

http://home.wavecable.com/~vtucker/A4/rotors.pdf


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Read that and you'll see how bad drilled rotors are for our cruze (any daily driver). Slotted rotors are gaining popularity but I don't trust the integrity of these rotors and not too mention the add cost/benefit is just not there.


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Great read GN, thanks for that. **** had me smiling and highlighting the whole time until the bottom of page 24 where he states NO GOOD for Daily driver. .... **** lol. 

However I would like to add the following table from his summary that supports Slotted rotors.










However I am not convinced a truly attentive driver such as some of us, would be in a higher risk category due to the fact that we pay attention to our vehicles we look for things that are wrong and out of place. Cracked rotors to myself and others would stand out. 

His biggest reason for them being bad for daily or spirited driving is due to lack of inspection and attention to the rotors. He also notes no added benefits in daily driving seeing as we won't see the braking situations like racing.(Not your once a month track day) but in most of the studies he provided braking was better, cooling was better and performance was better on the cross drilled and slotted rotors. 

Also of note is as rotor technology goes away from Iron and towards carbon ceramics and other materials the worry of rotors cracking and failing due to the drilled and slotted will be gone. 

So I take away from this, if you are going to run Drilled and Slotted, inspect your rotors if you do any serious heavy braking, such as coming down a mountain driving like, well I do. 

Thank you again GN for posting that. I advise all to really read that investigation. 

Zach


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## 14cruze1.4 (Oct 7, 2013)

rotor material is very important and each has their place. I work for bendix and for those who dont know we manfacture an air disc brake. our rotors are about 17inches in diameter 1.75" thick. Depending on setup they will last a over the road truck about 1 million miles and we do condone turning the rotors becasue it takes away material which is out heat sink. the rotors cant absord anymore heat and then the brake becomes in-efficient. but drilled and slotted rotors do have an advantage becasue they can dissipate heat quicker becasue they have more surface area but less mass so they cant absord as much heat. I personally like the looks of drilled and slotted rotors and will prolly put a set on my car down the road


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Zach.K said:


> However I would like to add the following table from his summary that supports Slotted rotors.



Like I said, these are becoming increasing popular which makes me nervous. If the slots are not machined correctly or if the rotor material is ****, you're going to have problems. The other issue that I have is that typically slotted rotors cost a more and for us Cruzers, I just can't justify that. Lets look at this a little more:

DISCITALIA SLOTTED - $235/pair
EBC USR SLOTTED - $205/pair
POWERDISC SLOTTED - $190/pair
EBC® - RK Series Premium OE Replacement Rotor - $130/pair
Centric® - Premium Brake Rotor - $61/pair (my current choice)

Just looking at the above are the cheapest slotted rotors (that I would recommend - I realize you could eBay a set from china) worth that much more than plain rotors?


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

giantsnation said:


> If the slots are not machined correctly or if the rotor material is ****, you're going to have problems.


This is assuming that there is no QC\QA. I have a little faith in the better brands out there, like stoptech, Adams Rotors, and EBC, Hawks etch... to market quality parts. 

What your state above can and does apply to even regular blank rotors, pads, plugs etc... 
You just cannot bias your rotors due to that if your dont bias everything else you buy. 

Those are actually pretty fair prices you listed. 

I bring with me to Cruzetalk a Motto from the Audi forum I am on. 

""""Buy Nice or Buy Twice" 

keep that in mind on any purchase.


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

I've done a couple hundred hours in a street prepared Miata (track class for timed events). When I first set up the car, I did slotted rotors and EBC green pads. I learned a painful lesson with those brakes. First, the slots tore all the material off the pads, and second, I exceeded the operating temperature of the pads.

To get nice and consistent lap times on a 30 minute run, I went to slightly larger discs, with no slots, and Cobalt pads. They were rated 100 to 1100F. While not ideal for driving when it's cold out, just using the brakes once would get it into it's temperature range.

Having read what Giant posted, I agree that your are best off with a standard disc and high temperature pads. You want to match your pads to your braking duties. For instance, 30 minutes on 11" discs on a 2200lb car with 1100 degree pads was pretty good. This setup could easily handle 30 minutes of hot lapping. But I wouldn't want to double that time. 

Think about what you are doing with your brakes!

If you are still on stock brake fluid, then you don't need better pads or bigger rotors. The longest and hardest I ever used brakes on the street was for 10 minutes on a mountain road in the middle of the night. And even that was only 50% of what a HPDE or Timed Event would need. 

I have never had my brakes get hot on the street, mountain driving or not. You want to see hot brakes? Take note the next time you follow a bedding procedure. THOSE are hot brakes! And I am a far cry from that in any street situation.

And because of that, I'll be putting slotted/cross drilled rotors on my car. Because I don't heat them up enough to even get remotely close to their limit.


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Well put Danny


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

That mountain must not have been like the two my Wife goes over every day to work, and back home. I've had both of our Cruze's shaking badly going down either side. This is with both stock brakes, and EBC blank rotors with Hawk HPS pads that were bedded to the letter of Hawk's instructions.

I start at roughly 30-40 mph at the top, and by the bottom you have to use the brakes a lot because these cars just will not hold themselves back. When you get behind someone it's even worse. You can let them get ahead of you at the top, but by the middle to bottom of the mountain you have to be all over the brakes because they're poking along at 25, and the Cruze acts like a run away train because there's no compression braking.

For me personally I see no con's to the slotted rotors. I've had them before with no problems as far as brake shake compared to blank rotors. Now if I lived out where it's flat I definitely believe that blank rotors would suit me just fine.



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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Danny5 said:


> And because of that, I'll be putting slotted/cross drilled rotors on my car. Because I don't heat them up enough to even get remotely close to their limit.


So you're going to pay a lot more for looks - might as well add a fart can and stickers to your car. Good luck with drilled rotors and I hope they don't crack for you when you need them most.


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

giantsnation said:


> So you're going to pay a lot more for looks - might as well add a fart can and stickers to your car. Good luck with drilled rotors and I hope they don't crack for you when you need them most.


And derail it back to trash talk. This discussion was actually going pretty good too. 
Nice

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Sorry it was just frustrating - people ignore the facts and put others lives at risk.


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

On a side note here, what size are the front rotors on the Cruze? I'm getting two different sizes at 10.9" and 11.8". 

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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

Anyone?

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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

Daryl said:


> That mountain must not have been like the two my Wife goes over every day to work, and back home. I've had both of our Cruze's shaking badly going down either side. This is with both stock brakes, and EBC blank rotors with Hawk HPS pads that were bedded to the letter of Hawk's instructions.
> 
> I start at roughly 30-40 mph at the top, and by the bottom you have to use the brakes a lot because these cars just will not hold themselves back. When you get behind someone it's even worse. You can let them get ahead of you at the top, but by the middle to bottom of the mountain you have to be all over the brakes because they're poking along at 25, and the Cruze acts like a run away train because there's no compression braking.
> 
> For me personally I see no con's to the slotted rotors. I've had them before with no problems as far as brake shake compared to blank rotors. Now if I lived out where it's flat I definitely believe that blank rotors would suit me just fine.


My bad. My experience with Cruze brakes probably differs a LOT from the gas models...


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

Danny5 said:


> My bad. My experience with Cruze brakes probably differs a LOT from the gas models...


Not saying your wrong, I was just stating how my experience has been different so far.

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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Daryl said:


> That mountain must not have been like the two my Wife goes over every day to work, and back home. I've had both of our Cruze's shaking badly going down either side. This is with both stock brakes, and EBC blank rotors with Hawk HPS pads that were bedded to the letter of Hawk's instructions.
> 
> I start at roughly 30-40 mph at the top, and by the bottom you have to use the brakes a lot because these cars just will not hold themselves back. When you get behind someone it's even worse. You can let them get ahead of you at the top, but by the middle to bottom of the mountain you have to be all over the brakes because they're poking along at 25, and the Cruze acts like a run away train because there's no compression braking.
> 
> ...


So as far as the shaking goes with the pad deposits, did you Rebed afterwards to remove the deposits?

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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

Zach.K said:


> So as far as the shaking goes with the pad deposits, did you Rebed afterwards to remove the deposits?
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


No sir, was not aware that doing that would fix anything? Too late now to try it again?

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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Daryl said:


> On a side note here, what size are the front rotors on the Cruze? I'm getting two different sizes at 10.9" and 11.8".
> 
> Sent from my Droid Ultra


Good question, do they list them as front or rear? Gas or Diesel?


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

Merc6 said:


> Good question, do they list them as front or rear? Gas or Diesel?


Listed as front, no other info. I was told by Smurfenstein that the diesel has 11.8" rotors, and the gas cars have the 10.9".

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## stamas (Mar 7, 2014)

sounds correct as the dizezal would need more stopping power because of the heavier motor


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

Daryl said:


> No sir, was not aware that doing that would fix anything? Too late now to try it again?
> 
> Sent from my Droid Ultra


That's what I have always experienced is that bedding the rotors after a trip like that gets deposit build up gets you a *clean* rotor. Basically removes the built up pad deposit and smooths it back out. 

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Ok ordered part 1 of the brake job - Amazon.com: Motive Products Power Bleeder Fits most late model GM cars and trucks: Automotive


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

Zach.K said:


> That's what I have always experienced is that bedding the rotors after a trip like that gets deposit build up gets you a *clean* rotor. Basically removes the built up pad deposit and smooths it back out.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App



I'll have to try that sometime this week.

Sent from my Droid Ultra


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Just a quick update here - ordered hawk ceramics and centric premium rotors. Too many mixed reviews on brakeworld.com and disc italia.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

This was an interesting read.

I had to do an emergency brake job on my Cruze tonight. 

Last night, after going out to eat with my wife, I heard the tell-tale "squeak" from my driver's side brake pad. I knew the pads were getting down there but the one inside pad was apparently just a little bit more worn.

Stopped at my usual Chevy dealer today during lunch and they had none in stock. Fortunately, I usually hit multiple counties in a day for work purposes and found a dealer with one set of OEM pads in stock for the bargain price of $100 (compared to list price of $144). Otherwise, I was going to have to hit up Advance Auto or NAPA on the way home.

I am not hard on my brakes and I actually like how they perform. The brakes grab quickly when needed, and the original pads lasted 3 days shy of 2 years and 99,230 miles. The original rotors are nice and smooth too, so I think I'll be good for a while now. 

Btw, the Chevy parts dept. says the OEM pads are semi-metallic. (I was suspicious of this claim by the parts department as they were also telling me they do have a cheaper pad available for $65, which I thought would have been the semi-metallics.)


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

So after all is said so far... is there any reason cross drilled/slotted would be a problem on a daily highway driver? Not concerned with cracking a rotor as they'll NEVER see that kind of trauma in the first place. Mostly concerned with stopping distance. I could also careless about pad replacements. Those are cheap and easy to do. Can someone answer this question directly without a loaded answer?


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

iTz SADISTIK said:


> So after all is said so far... is there any reason cross drilled/slotted would be a problem on a daily highway driver? Not concerned with cracking a rotor as they'll NEVER see that kind of trauma in the first place. Mostly concerned with stopping distance. I could also careless about pad replacements. Those are cheap and easy to do. Can someone answer this question directly without a loaded answer?


No problem, you just will not see the benefit. So if your comparing cost vs functionality then it's not worth it if you want them for looks and don't mind the extra cost ( I assume you won't buy ebay cheapos) then go for it 

Delivered from my pigeon


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Zach.K said:


> No problem, you just will not see the benefit. So if your comparing cost vs functionality then it's not worth it if you want them for looks and don't mind the extra cost ( I assume you won't buy ebay cheapos) then go for it
> 
> Delivered from my pigeon


Cheapos.. Heck no lol. Much like any other mod, aside from engine, this is purely aesthetic and nothing more. As long as I'm not compromising safety.


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