# Need IGN source for heated steering wheel install



## sadpanda (Jan 6, 2020)

2017 LT 6MT... Cloth interior, heated seats, power driver seat, no sun roof. I have Alldata and a GDIS

I am trying to retro fit a heated steering wheel. Purchased wheel and clock spring only to discover the rest of the chassis wiring is missing. Fuse block appears to be pinned (X50A under hood, F45) however wiring is not present at main connector (X200) nor at clock spring (X1).

Instead of trying to route wire through the factory harness/pin factory connectors I figure tapping the instrument panel fuse block would be easier.

Previous posts suggest F29 or F31 for switched ignition source 
cruzetalk how-to-gen-ii-2017-dash-cam-w-fuse-tap-install.240065/
cruzetalk hardwire-instrument-panel-fuse-block.226361/

However, F28-F33 are not pinned on my vehicle.

According to AllData F4, F30 and F33 are all on the same circuit (F8 and F31 are on this same schematic but shown as not used) powered by KR76-Retained Accessory Power Relay. It looks like everything else in this block is constant B+ 

Right now it looks like my only option is to open up the fuse block and jumper/pin one of these unused fuse connections.... Unless somebody else has a better idea.

Thanks in advance


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

sadpanda said:


> I am trying to retro fit a heated steering wheel.


What's the current spec for the heated wheel? That is, what was the current rating for F45? If it's a few amps, you might steal that from an existing circuit, preferably one rated at 7-10x the expected draw. You don't want to piggyback a 10A heater on a 20A circuit. But you'll probably be safe squeezing an extra 3-5A out of a 30A circuit.

Otherwise, start at the battery and run a new line (with new fuse at the battery). That can be a challenge finding the best path thru the firewall. But the car audio guys should be able to help with that.

BTW, regardless of where you tap in, I would add a fuse at the point, for the rating of the steering wheel heater.

Doug

.


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## sadpanda (Jan 6, 2020)

No need to run a dedicated battery line for 7.5a circuit when there is plenty of unused capacity in the 'instrument panel' fuse box. When retro fitting factory options I prefer to stick with OE routing and pining. It just doesn't seem worth it in this case given its only two wires and the engine side harness/bulk head connector is buried. 

I'll probably just do the pin/splice. It looks like I have a very early build car and most others that try this mod will have an easier route. I was fishing to see of someone else had come across this and found a clever/clean solution.


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## sadpanda (Jan 6, 2020)

Opened up the instrument panel fuse box and fond a whole lot of nothing useful. Some of the higher amp B+ circuits on the left side are bussed but the IGN+ was point to point.

I could have just fuse tapped off the only IGN+ circuit I have available (front power port) but there isn't much overhead if we are running an inverter AND I'm not keen on cutting the harness so I decided to use 2 fuse taps and a 4 pin micro relay.

Power port tap supplies a few miliamp of IGN+ and activates relay on sunroof B+ to supply load. A total kludge however I don't have the correct fuse block terminals in stock to do anything else cooler so good enough for now and on to the next


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