# Fuel Filter Change...Need advice



## Bbruew (Jul 6, 2019)

Its time for me to swap out my fuel filter and I just need some advice on the priming process. Yes i can swap the filter etc, The manual is just slightly confusing on the process so i was wondering if someone could just spell it out for me real quick. I've searched google and there seems to be nothing on this. lol

Thanks


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

What does the manual say the process is? Usually they don't say anything about it (unless you're speaking of the service manual?).


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## Bbruew (Jul 6, 2019)

after reading it again and again slowly i think i got it


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I haven't seen how the 2nd gen's is done, but I imagine it is pretty similar to the 1st gen's procedure which basically was: open the drain in the fuel filter cap (if you want to), close drain, loosen fuel filter "cap" and thread it out of the main housing. Pull the fuel filter out, put the new one in, and reinstall it. 

I'm not sure if the 2nd gen has an aeroshield underneath like the 1st gen did, but that was honestly the most time-consuming part of the operation.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Haven't changed my fuel filter yet on my 2018 sedan but I did drain the bowl for possible water accumulation as a preventative measure. There is no shield. I know when it's time to replace the filter I'm going to have one hell of a time. It's all plastic and the mounting is flimsy.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

From the owner's manual:

*To prime the fuel system:*

*With the engine off, press and hold ENGINE START/STOP without applying the brake for five seconds to place the vehicle in Service Mode. Wait for 30 seconds to allow fuel to fully cycle. Press ENGINE START/STOP again to turn it off. Do this step three times or more while the engine is off. *
*Press ENGINE START/STOP with the brake applied for a maximum of 40 seconds at a time, with five seconds between ignition attempts, until the engine starts. If the engine tries to run, but does not run smoothly, increase the RPMs slightly by using the accelerator pedal. This will help force air through the system. *
*Repeat Step 2 if the engine stalls and will not restart. *
*After a few attempts, if the engine still does not start, see your dealer.*


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Taking step 1 above, you basically want to turn on the electrical system of the car because that includes running the low pressure fuel pump. Turning it on without allowing the car to start means the fuel pump will send diesel fuel through the filter without cranking the engine. Repeating this process means fuel will be pumped through the filter and fuel system to remove all or almost all of the air bubbles from the system. Cycle it a few times and then start the car, and let it run for 5-10 minutes to make sure the entire fuel system is pressurized and operating correctly.


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## HondaTech2016 (Apr 20, 2017)

Think of holding the button like turning the key 1 click on older cars to the "run" postion. 

Holding the button down will illuminate the dash almost like the vehicle is going to start but it doesnt. 

Just let it do that 3 times and itll usually start the 4th time. May crank longer than usual, but it will eventually start.

The priming process is the easy part, getting the cap off the housing is the real fun part.


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## Bbruew (Jul 6, 2019)

thanks fellas i actually figured it out as i did it, completely made sense haha. Man that thing was on there tight and the bracket its held in to is a pile of **** lol. I basically had to hold the bracket as i was turning the filter housing off.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

That's surprising - they must have changed the mounting scheme compared to the Gen 1.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Bbruew said:


> thanks fellas i actually figured it out as i did it, completely made sense haha. Man that thing was on there tight and the bracket its held in to is a pile of **** lol. I basically had to hold the bracket as i was turning the filter housing off.


Did you take a few pictures? Can you remember enough to maybe write up a How-To for the next guy?

How-To: Write a Tutorial


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## coalminer (Oct 31, 2018)

I replaced my fuel filter over the weekend, just shy of 40k and the fuel filter monitor just hit 0. I had no problems getting the cap off, used a 36mm axle socket, took a little force, but not as much as what others have reported. One thing I noticed is that the new filter does not come with the orings for the drain plug, wish those would have come with it. Did not take that long to prime the system, could listen to the pump working and it changed pitch when the air was gone. Started up first time no problems, only cranked a half second or so longer that normal. 

One weird thing when I went to reset the fuel filter monitor, it didnt actually reset until I turned the engine off and back on.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Just replaced my fuel filter yesterday. After making one attempt to remove the filter bowl I decided it was best to remove the entire housing instead. One must be careful in removing the fuel lines. They are quick release with a locking tab and a push and hold to release to pull it back off the nipple on the bowl assembly. The electrical connector also has a quick release tab and it pulls off. You can easily break any of the tabs or release clips on the fuel lines and or the electrical connector if you don't pay attention to details. So after I removed the bowl I simply used a strap wrench to hold the housing and wrenched off the bowl. This was my first replacement since new. It was pretty **** tight. I would have definitely ripped the housing off the plastic mount. This is a terrible design from GM. No way to unscrew the bowl without inflicting damage of some kind. Even screwing on the bowl with a new well lubricated o ring it was difficult to overcome the preload of the o ring until the bowl was properly seated in the housing. I had to use the strap wrench method again. Before reinstalling I suggest spraying the connector with electrical contact cleaner. One thing I noticed was one of the fuel lines continues to drip fuel. So have a nice size drain catch until your ready to reinstall the bowl. Yes it is messy. After it was all back together I primed the fuel filter 4 times. Engine fired up normally with no running problems. 

So quick recap.
Removing the bowl assembly is best option.

Be careful with fuel lines quick disconnects and electrical connector release tab.

Expect fuel to constantly drip from fuel line when disconnected.

Prime fuel filter 4 times. 
2 or 3 times may work but 4 times was problem free on start up.

Don't forget to leak check the lines and filter bowl with engine running. 

Next time should be easier.
🤞


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

6speedTi said:


> After making one attempt to remove the filter bowl I decided it was best to remove the entire housing instead.


I found the best process to be using an air impact gun on the lowest setting. Hold the top of the housing and even though it's using very little force, it's the repeated hammering of the lower housing that breaks it free. Pull that trigger and let it hammer away for a good 20-30 seconds and the impact (even if very low force) of that hammer will unscrew it just fine.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Barry Allen said:


> I found the best process to be using an air impact gun on the lowest setting. Hold the top of the housing and even though it's using very little force, it's the repeated hammering of the lower housing that breaks it free. Pull that trigger and let it hammer away for a good 20-30 seconds and the impact (even if very low force) of that hammer will unscrew it just fine.


I tried that. Way too much torque on the whole housing. It's just a bad design. Shame on GM.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

6speedTi said:


> I tried that. Way too much torque on the whole housing. It's just a bad design. Shame on GM.


 I found the plastic seems to swell and get tighter over time, as it was an issue on my 2015 on the second filter, not the first. There is also a billet aluminum cap for duramax that should be the same, it's a bit pricey at $70, but I'm thinking about getting one for next time I do this so that it won't be an ongoing issue. I did use some teflon based grease on the cap when I put it back on, but it was still tight.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> I found the plastic seems to swell and get tighter over time, as it was an issue on my 2015 on the second filter, not the first. There is also a billet aluminum cap for duramax that should be the same, it's a bit pricey at $70, but I'm thinking about getting one for next time I do this so that it won't be an ongoing issue. I did use some teflon based grease on the cap when I put it back on, but it was still tight.


After I removed the filter housing and placed it on the ground on top of a shop rag to prevent any damage. I used a heavy duty strap wrench to hold it down. Then I used my six point impact socket with my impact gun which has some serious torque and it took some constant triggering until the filter bowl started to rotate. It faught me coming off and going on. New oring and lubed up the filter bowl screws on so tight that I could not fully screw it in by hand. I impacted the bowl on until it bottomed out on the housing. It's so tight that it doesn't need to be torqued. It's not going to back out on it's own. The aftermarket aluminum bowl may look similar but unless I see them side by side I'm not buying one. And even then it may go on and come off just like the OEM one.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

6speedTi said:


> I tried that. Way too much torque on the whole housing. It's just a bad design. Shame on GM.


If so, you're not holding the top housing firm enough. I did it as a two-person job: I was holding the top housing fast using both hands (with weight lifting my upper body strength is immense) and my cousin was pulling the trigger on the impact hammer.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Barry Allen said:


> If so, you're not holding the top housing firm enough. I did it as a two-person job: I was holding the top housing fast using both hands (with weight lifting my upper body strength is immense) and my cousin was pulling the trigger on the impact hammer.


It shouldn't be a two man task. It shouldn't take more torque to spin it off then what's required to properly torque it back on. I ran it on without the oring and it went on easy by hand. New oring or the old one it creates a very tight interference fit or a high pretorque load. I've never experienced this in my 35 plus years working on automobiles and commercial aircraft. I suspect the bowl or housing has swelled or it's a manufacturing defect. So this is what I expect the next time I replace the fuel filter.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Incase anyone is having the same problem as me with the removal and installation of the fuel filter bowl here is the part number of the filter bowl. GM 23217900. In case anyone wants to try and replace the bowl to see if the bowl is the problem. What I might do in the future is order the entire assembly from Amazon and see how that one spins off and on. I will also buy the aftermarket aluminum bowl and do a side by side comparison and take measurements as well. If the new bowl spins on and off easily then it's safe to assume my original has a design build flaw or the diesel fuel might have expanded the bowl and or housing. I doubt the fuel has an affect on the material. If the new one does the same thing then I will try it with aftermarket aluminum bowl assuming it measures up the same and see how that one spins on and off. If anyone decides to try this before I do let us know your results. This will be a project for me but not for a while.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

I just want a billet aluminium CAT fuel filter replacement option for this car. There is some space to turn it sideways so the filter doesn't stick down below the bottom of the car. I'd love for it to be a spin-on filter I can easily replace every 20,000 miles.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

MRO1791 said:


> I found the plastic seems to swell and get tighter over time, as it was an issue on my 2015 on the second filter, not the first. There is also a billet aluminum cap for duramax that should be the same, it's a bit pricey at $70, but I'm thinking about getting one for next time I do this so that it won't be an ongoing issue. I did use some teflon based grease on the cap when I put it back on, but it was still tight.


Do you have the Duramax part number?



6speedTi said:


> Incase anyone is having the same problem as me with the removal and installation of the fuel filter bowl here is the part number of the filter bowl. GM 23217900. In case anyone wants to try and replace the bowl to see if the bowl is the problem. What I might do in the future is order the entire assembly from Amazon and see how that one spins off and on. I will also buy the aftermarket aluminum bowl and do a side by side comparison and take measurements as well. If the new bowl spins on and off easily then it's safe to assume my original has a design build flaw or the diesel fuel might have expanded the bowl and or housing. I doubt the fuel has an affect on the material. If the new one does the same thing then I will try it with aftermarket aluminum bowl assuming it measures up the same and see how that one spins on and off. If anyone decides to try this before I do let us know your results. This will be a project for me but not for a while.


Between the both of you, do you have any pictures?


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> Do you have the Duramax part number?
> 
> 
> 
> Between the both of you, do you have any pictures?


Of what specifically?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

6speedTi said:


> Of what specifically?


Hopefully anything that will help to make a How-To: post.

How-To: Write a Tutorial


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

I


Blasirl said:


> Hopefully anything that will help to make a How-To: post.
> 
> How-To: Write a Tutorial


 I simply contributed some information on my experience with a specific task or issue I came across. Do I really need to take photos everytime I contribute some helpful information to either get input from others or make it easier on others when they come across a similar issue?
I mentioned the fuel filter bowl, housing and the aftermarket fuel filter bowl. Do I need to post photos of these items and or any other items in the future?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

6speedTi said:


> I
> I simply contributed some information on my experience with a specific task or issue I came across. Do I really need to take photos everytime I contribute some helpful information to either get input from others or make it easier on others when they come across a similar issue?
> I mentioned the fuel filter bowl, housing and the aftermarket fuel filter bowl. Do I need to post photos of these items and or any other items in the future?


You are not required to do anything aside from abiding by the forum etiquette rules. Having said that, We have a pretty decent How-To: section for the 1.4, but not so much for the 1.6, 1.8 and especially the CTD. I am not sure how much time you spend on the forum, but we constantly get new people asking the same questions as most problems one encounters, so too does another. As I do not own a CTD, I am just trying to help other community members.

I saw this arise in the beginning and saw enough interest that it must be a common problem and it was not in the How-To: library. I was hoping at least one person would attempt to write one. We have a pretty decent format and that is the link I re-posted. I see quite a bit of instructions, all that was needed was some pictures to go with it. I might even give it a go and try to put it together, but someone who has actually done it would do a better job.

gen1-diesel-how-to-diy-library


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

I found that Rock Auto has the ENTIRE filter assembly for about $40. As I have 2 filter changes coming up soon, I ordered the entire unit, so if I have any problems getting the cap off, I'll just replace the whole thing. I would take 2 entire assemblies to get over the price of that one aluminimum cap, so at this point it's too expensive to justfy buying it. 





__





More Information for GM GENUINE TP1017






www.rockauto.com





Here is the cap if anyone is interested: 



https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07T1QQ2T7/?coliid=I3P9CTPOMH1EYT&colid=1UAW6N83PBF83&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Blasirl said:


> Hopefully anything that will help to make a How-To: post.
> 
> How-To: Write a Tutorial


When I do the upcoming filter changes I'll try ot snag some pictures and put together a how to guide per your recomendation. 

The Gen 1 has pretty good stuff, and actually if there is a Gen 1 guide on the filter, it's basically the same on Gen 2, but on the other side of the car, and no panels need to be removed to access the filter, so it's a bit less effort on Gen 2.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> I found that Rock Auto has the ENTIRE filter assembly for about $40. As I have 2 filter changes coming up soon, I ordered the entire unit, so if I have any problems getting the cap off, I'll just replace the whole thing. I would take 2 entire assemblies to get over the price of that one aluminimum cap, so at this point it's too expensive to justfy buying it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you end up removing the entire fuel filter assembly be very careful with the release tabs on the fuel lines. Two lines and different types of release for each one. The electrical connector on top has a small release tab that's difficult to reach unless the housing is removed from the mount and pulled down a bit for better access. One of the two drain lines will continuously drip fuel. 
To release the housing from the mount there is a tab you need to push towards the housing away from the mount. Then the housing slides up and clears the mount. I suggest you disconnect the fuel lines first incase you accidentally kink them while handling the filter housing. I removed my filter housing, place a strap wrench around it and then used my impact wrench with short quick pulses on the trigger to spin off the bowl. Hopefully for you the new housing will work without the problems some of us had. Good luck. Next time I replace my fuel filter I'll have a new assembly on hand and a aftermarket aluminum filter bowl as well and see what works best.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> I found that Rock Auto has the ENTIRE filter assembly for about $40. As I have 2 filter changes coming up soon, I ordered the entire unit, so if I have any problems getting the cap off, I'll just replace the whole thing. I would take 2 entire assemblies to get over the price of that one aluminimum cap, so at this point it's too expensive to justfy buying it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ebay Ebay has the black aluminum filter bowls for $32.99.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

6speedTi said:


> Ebay Ebay has the black aluminum filter bowls for $32.99.


Can you provide a link or a search term for those? That would be a great thing to get.. just could not go for the $70 one on amazon..


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

6speedTi said:


> Ebay Ebay has the black aluminum filter bowls for $32.99.


Found them on EBay, Thanks for the tip.. that is a much more reasonable priced option over replacing the entire assembly.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Filter cap aluminum GM in Fuel Filters for sale | eBay






www.ebay.com


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## cdccjohnson (Apr 10, 2018)

I had to use a impact gun. Struggled like everyone else. Once I tired this, it was easy. I did have a can of diesel and prefilled the filter before I installed. By doing this it made the priming almost a non-issue.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

cdccjohnson said:


> I had to use a impact gun.


I've recommended this and been told "NO, DON'T DO THAT!"

My advice above still stands. Put the impact gun on the lowest setting and have someone else with strong muscles firmly brace the filter housing. Use the hammering/vibration of the impact gun to rattle it loose.




> I did have a can of diesel and prefilled the filter before I installed. By doing this it made the priming almost a non-issue.


This is entirely unnecessary, but you can do it if you want. Use the priming procedure in the instruction manual and the low-pressure fuel pump will completely fill the filter and fuel lines. When I did it the car started and then chugged to a stop once with maybe some small air bubbles in the line. The second start was fine and it ran steady after.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

6speedTi said:


> Ebay Ebay has the black aluminum filter bowls for $32.99.


Since I have 4 cars that eventually need them.. I made an offer to buy the 2 remaning for $30each.. the seller accepted and they are on the way. Thanks for the tip. Got 2 for less than the price of one on amazon.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> Since I have 4 cars that eventually need them.. I made an offer to buy the 2 remaning for $30each.. the seller accepted and they are on the way. Thanks for the tip. Got 2 for less than the price of one on amazon.





MRO1791 said:


> Since I have 4 cars that eventually need them.. I made an offer to buy the 2 remaning for $30each.. the seller accepted and they are on the way. Thanks for the tip. Got 2 for less than the price of one on amazon.


Your welcome on the tip. Glad to help. Let us know how they measure up side by side and how they fit compared to the OEM filter bowl. I'm going that route next but I just replaced my fuel filter so it will be a while. Thanks.


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## BodhiBenz1987 (Jan 13, 2018)

Barry Allen said:


> From the owner's manual:
> 
> *To prime the fuel system:*
> 
> ...


Possibly a stupid question but just want to be sure ... I assume in a manual, you would just substitute "clutch" for "brake" in these instructions?
Hoping to give this a try this week or weekend. I still have 40% life left per the DIC but at about 30k miles I just want to see what state it's in.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

BodhiBenz1987 said:


> Possibly a stupid question but just want to be sure ... I assume in a manual, you would just substitute "clutch" for "brake" in these instructions?
> Hoping to give this a try this week or weekend. I still have 40% life left per the DIC but at about 30k miles I just want to see what state it's in.


Yes. Sit in the car and do not engage the clutch (keep your foot off the pedal). Press and hold the start button and after something like 5-7 seconds the instrument cluster will light up and the car will be in service mode. This does engage the low pressure fuel pump for priming a new fuel filter.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

6speedTi said:


> Your welcome on the tip. Glad to help. Let us know how they measure up side by side and how they fit compared to the OEM filter bowl. I'm going that route next but I just replaced my fuel filter so it will be a while. Thanks.


Got my 2 Aluminum filter bowls, and have a new filter assembly so I verified they DO FIT perfectly.. not only that, even the brand new filter assembly it was insanely tight to get the original plastic bowl off! The Aluminum one for billed for the Duramax 6.6L is a prefect fit, and it went on with normal resistance for the O-ring seal, not the insane almost break the plastic housing torque of the stupid plastic bowl. I have one car near due and it will get the AL bowl/lower cap when I do that change.. Also, the EBay link got me 2 of these for $60 plus $5 shipping, where that exact same item was $70 on amazon.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> Got my 2 Aluminum filter bowls, and have a new filter assembly so I verified they DO FIT perfectly.. not only that, even the brand new filter assembly it was insanely tight to get the original plastic bowl off! The Aluminum one for billed for the Duramax 6.6L is a prefect fit, and it went on with normal resistance for the O-ring seal, not the insane almost break the plastic housing torque of the stupid plastic bowl. I have one car near due and it will get the AL bowl/lower cap when I do that change.. Also, the EBay link got me 2 of these for $60 plus $5 shipping, where that exact same item was $70 on amazon.


Glad to hear. Good information. Saves me the trouble of ordering a new oem filter assembly to verify if my original was a production fluke. I'll order the aluminium black bowl on ebay when I get close to a filter change. 

Question? Are you going to keep your original filter assembly and install the aluminum bowl or use the new filter assembly you ordered and use the new aluminum bowl?
Just curious.
Again thanks for the info.👍👍


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## BodhiBenz1987 (Jan 13, 2018)

6speedTi said:


> If you end up removing the entire fuel filter assembly be very careful with the release tabs on the fuel lines. Two lines and different types of release for each one. The electrical connector on top has a small release tab that's difficult to reach unless the housing is removed from the mount and pulled down a bit for better access. One of the two drain lines will continuously drip fuel.
> To release the housing from the mount there is a tab you need to push towards the housing away from the mount. Then the housing slides up and clears the mount. I suggest you disconnect the fuel lines first incase you accidentally kink them while handling the filter housing. I removed my filter housing, place a strap wrench around it and then used my impact wrench with short quick pulses on the trigger to spin off the bowl. Hopefully for you the new housing will work without the problems some of us had. Good luck. Next time I replace my fuel filter I'll have a new assembly on hand and a aftermarket aluminum filter bowl as well and see what works best.


I know it's hard to describe something like this, but for the fuel lines, once each clip is released, do they just pull off? Or is there something else you have to hold down or press? Looking at mine it seems both are sort of circlips. I was able to get both clips to slide out of place, but it didn't seem like the connectors were loosened at all and I didn't want to pull hard. Also on the electrical connector, is it a tab you push down towards the connector, or pry away? I tried looking at it with an inspection mirror and can't figure it out. I really don't want to break anything and defeat the whole purpose of removing the housing.
I tried to do the filter today and confirmed I have one that isn't going to budge. I looked on AllDataDIY and the instructions said to stick a wrench extension between the housing and frame to help secure the housing ... seemed like a neat idea but didn't work at all. Even slight force on the housing bowl torqued the housing so much it popped the wrench out. At this point I'm considering three options 1) prime it and take it to the dealer to do the filter when convenient (I already drained the bowl, of course) 2) remove the whole housing and try it on a bench, or replace it with one I just ordered from Rock Auto or 3) weld together some kind of bracket that will hold it there more securely during this job. I'm not enough of an engineer for #3 and #1 is a hassle since the only dealer I trust is 40 minutes away. So I'm leaning towards #2.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

BodhiBenz1987 said:


> I know it's hard to describe something like this, but for the fuel lines, once each clip is released, do they just pull off? Or is there something else you have to hold down or press? Looking at mine it seems both are sort of circlips. I was able to get both clips to slide out of place, but it didn't seem like the connectors were loosened at all and I didn't want to pull hard. Also on the electrical connector, is it a tab you push down towards the connector, or pry away? I tried looking at it with an inspection mirror and can't figure it out. I really don't want to break anything and defeat the whole purpose of removing the housing.
> I tried to do the filter today and confirmed I have one that isn't going to budge. I looked on AllDataDIY and the instructions said to stick a wrench extension between the housing and frame to help secure the housing ... seemed like a neat idea but didn't work at all. Even slight force on the housing bowl torqued the housing so much it popped the wrench out. At this point I'm considering three options 1) prime it and take it to the dealer to do the filter when convenient (I already drained the bowl, of course) 2) remove the whole housing and try it on a bench, or replace it with one I just ordered from Rock Auto or 3) weld together some kind of bracket that will hold it there more securely during this job. I'm not enough of an engineer for #3 and #1 is a hassle since the only dealer I trust is 40 minutes away. So I'm leaning towards #2.


Yes, the clip retains it, and if I recall, there are 2 different types, because it would make too much sense to make them the SAME. Once the clip is released it pulls off with some force, but don't go crazy, if it takes too much it's not released completely. The new filter housing does in fact have a filter inside already, so you could just intall it, but you'll be doing this crazy again next time. I highly advise that Aluminum cap. I had to apply stupid torque to get the cap off the brand new housing that had not even been installed on the car! It was easier to do on the bench, but the Al cap went on with a reasonable amount of O-ring resistance, and I expect future changes on the car with the Al cap to go quick and easy.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

6speedTi said:


> Glad to hear. Good information. Saves me the trouble of ordering a new oem filter assembly to verify if my original was a production fluke. I'll order the aluminium black bowl on ebay when I get close to a filter change.
> 
> Question? Are you going to keep your original filter assembly and install the aluminum bowl or use the new filter assembly you ordered and use the new aluminum bowl?
> Just curious.
> Again thanks for the info.👍👍


I have on cap on one of the 2 new housings I have on the shelf (The first one I bought when I damaged/repaired the original on my Gen 1, which is holding up OK, but next change it gets replaced). I tend to stock up when I get a good deal on price, and it fluctuates for these parts.. I have FOUR cars that need them. Right now I have just the 2 Al caps, but I'm going to bid or offer for 2 more to see if I can get a deal on 2 more, those changes are bit out in the future. The one about due now, I'm hoping to get the plastic cap off when I do the change, and install with the Al cap. If it won't budge, I'll remove the housing and install the new housing that has the Al cap already in place. I absolutely will not be putting a plastic cap back on a car, unless if have no other option. This is a design or manufacturing problem for sure, there is no way that cap should be so tight.


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## BodhiBenz1987 (Jan 13, 2018)

MRO1791 said:


> Yes, the clip retains it, and if I recall, there are 2 different types, because it would make too much sense to make them the SAME. Once the clip is released it pulls off with some force, but don't go crazy, if it takes too much it's not released completely. The new filter housing does in fact have a filter inside already, so you could just intall it, but you'll be doing this crazy again next time. I highly advise that Aluminum cap. I had to apply stupid torque to get the cap off the brand new housing that had not even been installed on the car! It was easier to do on the bench, but the Al cap went on with a reasonable amount of O-ring resistance, and I expect future changes on the car with the Al cap to go quick and easy.


Stupid question maybe, but will the aluminum housing function just the same in terms of water separation? I haven't had it apart to see what it looks like but I assume it's designed so water separates to the bottom of the bowl since it's the low point?


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## BodhiBenz1987 (Jan 13, 2018)

BodhiBenz1987 said:


> I know it's hard to describe something like this, but for the fuel lines, once each clip is released, do they just pull off? Or is there something else you have to hold down or press? Looking at mine it seems both are sort of circlips. I was able to get both clips to slide out of place, but it didn't seem like the connectors were loosened at all and I didn't want to pull hard. Also on the electrical connector, is it a tab you push down towards the connector, or pry away? I tried looking at it with an inspection mirror and can't figure it out. I really don't want to break anything and defeat the whole purpose of removing the housing.
> I tried to do the filter today and confirmed I have one that isn't going to budge. I looked on AllDataDIY and the instructions said to stick a wrench extension between the housing and frame to help secure the housing ... seemed like a neat idea but didn't work at all. Even slight force on the housing bowl torqued the housing so much it popped the wrench out. At this point I'm considering three options 1) prime it and take it to the dealer to do the filter when convenient (I already drained the bowl, of course) 2) remove the whole housing and try it on a bench, or replace it with one I just ordered from Rock Auto or 3) weld together some kind of bracket that will hold it there more securely during this job. I'm not enough of an engineer for #3 and #1 is a hassle since the only dealer I trust is 40 minutes away. So I'm leaning towards #2.


So I tried #3 today and even though the bracket did a good job preventing lateral movement of the housing, it couldn't really do anything to handle the torsion. I tried to put some rubber inside the circle part hoping it would act sort of like a strap wrench as the housing turned into it, but it wasn't effective enough for the amount of force I was putting on without the cap even so much as budging. I could try a different rubber (like lining it with an actual strap wrench rubber), or, use the current setup with an air wrench, but I'd have to jack it up for the latter. At this point I'm way past the diminishing returns for the effort. On the bright side, I think the bracket will be handy if I switch to the aluminum housing and only need it to hold steady for a human amount of force. 
I have to drive it tomorrow so I just primed it and will deal with it later. I might just have the dealer do it and ask if they'll put the aluminum cap on. At least it primed OK. The second two times I put it in service mode it seemed like I couldn't hear the fuel pump anymore (maybe because it wasn't dealing with air at that point). It stumbled a little when it first tried to start but caught soon after and ran normally. Fortunately I'm not really close to end of filter life anyway, but just wanted to get ahead on this having read what a pain it is.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

BodhiBenz1987 said:


> Stupid question maybe, but will the aluminum housing function just the same in terms of water separation? I haven't had it apart to see what it looks like but I assume it's designed so water separates to the bottom of the bowl since it's the low point?


Yes, internally it's the same, the o-ring seals for the filter against the cap just like the original, and there is a water drain plug, that is a bit different than the original, but if anything allows slightly more volume for water separation. It's a tiny concern that the plug sticks out about 5/16" from the aluminum cap, where the plastic is recessed, but the odds of that being problem with ground clearance is minimal.


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## sledstorm1 (Mar 9, 2017)

Try this, it works well for me. Amazon.com: H&S Motorsports 2017-2018 GM Duramax 6.6L L5P Billet Fuel Filter Housing: Automotive

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