# Is it the tires or the design?



## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...first, do a search here and then read what others have reported about this problem.

...then, rethink what you think about the "tires" being the cause.


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## robertbick (Jan 1, 2011)

I have driven on salted/sanded roads many times this past winter with no paint chips.


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## cruzen (Mar 3, 2011)

Design. not the tires. I have same problem. Had some mud flaps put on they were so small they did not help. GM is repainting the car and installing larger mud flaps at their cost.


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## cruzen (Mar 3, 2011)

I know there is a few of us having this happen and alot are not. I am wondering if it is just one model of the Cruze or not. What model are you driving mine is a 2011 LS.


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## EcoCruzer (Mar 4, 2011)

I see a few chips on the driver side of my Eco. I think it might be the door set in too far (not flush) leaving that edge sticking out slightly. I will see if the dealer can put some protection on there.


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## robertbick (Jan 1, 2011)

Mine is the LTZ RS with no paint chip problems.


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## WHITECO (Mar 31, 2011)

Man you guys are making me so nervous....My wife is about ready to kill me as I keep wanting to go and put the clear rock guard on the back doors....I have ordered mudflaps and I hope those do the trick...cause I sure don't want chips on the back doors at all


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## SilverCruzer (Nov 30, 2010)

I don't have chips (salt on the road but no/little gravel), but I have noticed all the grime-salt-dirt that collects on the sheet metal inside when you open the door. This does not get removed at the car wash so it becomes a potential rust spot.


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## cruzeguy1977 (Feb 20, 2011)

*To end paint chip problems*

Hi all here's what's going on. I experienced the paint chip problems on my LT 2 took the car in had the mud flaps put on and some 3m on affected area. I then contacted GM Canada and reported my issue. I then returned to my dealer( whom Im very happy with) had the service managar look at my car only to find out that my doors should be adjusted as they stick in to far to allow the rocks to chip the paint. My car will be going in soon for repairs and corrective action.


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## Lambo LVr (Apr 12, 2011)

*Paint chips*



cruzen said:


> I know there is a few of us having this happen and alot are not. I am wondering if it is just one model of the Cruze or not. What model are you driving mine is a 2011 LS.


 I also have an LS model. Black granite metallic


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## Lambo LVr (Apr 12, 2011)

cruzeguy1977 said:


> Hi all here's what's going on. I experienced the paint chip problems on my LT 2 took the car in had the mud flaps put on and some 3m on affected area. I then contacted GM Canada and reported my issue. I then returned to my dealer( whom Im very happy with) had the service managar look at my car only to find out that my doors should be adjusted as they stick in to far to allow the rocks to chip the paint. My car will be going in soon for repairs and corrective action.


 WTF!!! I already brought this car in to re-align the rear bumper (no charge). Now I have to go back and have the doors adjusted? If my steering wheel falls off I'm gonna snap.


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## jrg7474 (Apr 9, 2011)

same thing has happened to me the rear door was in too far leaving the edge exposed causing rock chips to it to the dealer the realigned the door and painted the chipped areas


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

same here, i have a ltz rs and i haven't noticed this problem yet....guess i gotta pay more attention tommorow when I open my garage lol

thanks for the heads up guys!



robertbick said:


> Mine is the LTZ RS with no paint chip problems.


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

CHEVYCRUZE RS said:


> same here, i have a ltz rs and i haven't noticed this problem yet....guess i gotta pay more attention tommorow when I open my garage lol
> 
> thanks for the heads up guys!


I did notice a chip in my LTZ RS yesterday on the driver side. The rear door is underflush to the bodyside a little bit so I am going to adjust the striker to get that a bit outboard. I will probably go .5mm overflush and see if that stops the chip condition. That is the only door where I have closure effort issues as well. My daughter typically has to take a second attempt at closing the door. So adjusting the striker will also alleviate the DCE problem as well. I will have to keep an ear out for added noise, but I dont think it will be a problem.


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## cruzen (Mar 3, 2011)

o ya they are adjusting my back doors too


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## scaredpoet (Nov 29, 2010)

Can someone post a picture of these paint chips? I want to know what to look for on mine.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

^ By the sounds of things, it is the leading edge of the rear fender that is being chipped away. If the rear edge of the rear doors is a bit too far inwards it will expose the leading edge of the rear fender. If this happens the road debris kicked up by the front tires will hit the leading edge of the rear fender head on, instead of being gradually deflected outwards by the shape of the rear door. A relatively thin 1" piece of Paint Protection Film wrapped around that leading fender edge would be enough to protect it from all but the largest road debris.



TSURacing said:


> The rear door is underflush to the bodyside a little bit so I am going to adjust the striker to get that a bit outboard. I will probably go .5mm overflush and see if that stops the chip condition. That is the only door where I have closure effort issues as well. My daughter typically has to take a second attempt at closing the door. So adjusting the striker will also alleviate the DCE problem as well. I will have to keep an ear out for added noise, but I dont think it will be a problem.


My friend, do you or did you at one time work in a Car Assembly Plant? 

One of two things can happen during the vehicle assembly process:

1. The strikers will be positioned on the body and tightened down while being held in a pre-determined spot by a fixture. This adjustment can be made to the fixture.

2. The strikers are not adjustable and the adjustment will be made by permanently deforming the striker (bending it) with a tool specifically made for this purpose. If the correction is needed on enough vehicles (it seems to be pretty common here) a shift in the manufacturing process will position the striker bolt recieving threads outboard by the required amount.

Your comments about door closing efforts seem to support this, though this inboard condition at the bottom of the door _could_ be the result of correcting a fit issue at the middle/top of the door also... where cosmetics are concerned (like having the belt line moldings lined up perfectly) compromises are made all over the place.

On a new car I wouldn't be too concerned about noise unless you were making a MAJOR adjustment to the door position since the seals will not have taken a severe set yet. On an older vehicle this alteration could be enough to reduce seal contact and cause noise at speed.

I spent almost four years working as a Program Engineer inside GM representing a sealing supplier (Integrated Supplier) so I got to see many, many things that happen in CAPs that the general poulation are not aware of... Interesting indeed, and as the Design Engineer for the seals door closing efforts were at the top of my list during the launch of a vehicle. Next came operator ergonomics...


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## WHITECO (Mar 31, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> ^ By the sounds of things, it is the leading edge of the rear fender that is being chipped away. If the rear edge of the rear doors is a bit too far inwards it will expose the leading edge of the rear fender. If this happens the road debris kicked up by the front tires will hit the leading edge of the rear fender head on, instead of being gradually deflected outwards by the shape of the rear door. A relatively thin 1" piece of Paint Protection Film wrapped around that leading fender edge would be enough to protect it from all but the largest road debris.


I have some white vinyl left from doing my badge overlays....I am wondering if I put a 1nch strip along that edge might work just as good??


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## Lambo LVr (Apr 12, 2011)

*???*



scaredpoet said:


> can someone post a picture of these paint chips? I want to know what to look for on mine.


 look for paint chips!!!!!!


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

My friend, do you or did you at one time work in a Car Assembly Plant? 

Yeah, Ive been known to frequent such places. 

I made the adjustment to the striker and moved the door out as much as I could visually tolerate on the body feature in the top half of the door. It is now a bit high on the belt line trim and outboard at the top of the door, but it isnt terrible. The bottom of the door is just about flush, so we will see if this helps. I discovered when I cleaned the area that I have 5 small chips already. I am going to get tint quoted this weekend and I will ask about the PPF.
The bracket that holds the threads for the striker bolts is spot welded to the bodyside assy, but it is willing to shift a little bit with some persuasion.
If I am not happy with this fitment in a few days I will find a piece of firm rubber and do it the old-fashioned way.
I am not thrilled with this condition.....


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

^ Just out of curiosity, does the other (passenger?) side of the car have the same fittment issue?

It's really interesting to work with the body shop dimentional guys... man, they're getting hit from all angles when it comes to getting the body to look good! One thing is for sure, though; if enough people raise this issue with their dealers it will escalate to the plant level and a correction will be investigated. I'd be surprised if this is not already happening, but it will depend on how many other "fires" are burining with higher priority.

WHITECO, a strip of white vinyl should offer some protection, though most vinyls are much thinner than PPF and will offer less "impact resistance"... larger debris will be more likely to damage the paint through a layer of vinyl than through a typical PPF.

If you were to visit a shop that installs PPF, ask them if they will cut you a 1"-2" strip of the stuff and you can apply it yourself. It's a little tricky to get perfect but a white car will hide any air bubbles that end up trapped beneath, and a thin strip should be fairly easy to apply. You may not even need to do the "soapy water squeege" technique, you may be able to just put it on dry.

I bought 10 feet of 48" wide Clearshield material from a local dealer here to do the entire doors of my GF's new BMW. The 48" wide material was $20/foot, so a 1" strip (cut clean and straight on their plotter) should cost the same or less. It can't hurt to ask. If you're getting the front of the car done just ask to keep the "scrap" left over and you can cut the strips out of that yourself.


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## WHITECO (Mar 31, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> ^ Just out of curiosity, does the other (passenger?) side of the car have the same fittment issue?
> 
> It's really interesting to work with the body shop dimentional guys... man, they're getting hit from all angles when it comes to getting the body to look good! One thing is for sure, though; if enough people raise this issue with their dealers it will escalate to the plant level and a correction will be investigated. I'd be surprised if this is not already happening, but it will depend on how many other "fires" are burining with higher priority.
> 
> ...


Unfortunately I wasn't aware of this problem when I had the front of the car done originally...when I went back to the company that did the job he wanted $50 to do the back of the car...We have allready ordered mudflaps for the car so we are going to use those and then just not worry about the rock chips if we get them...it is just a car afterall


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## Skilz10179 (Mar 22, 2011)

Can someone please post up some pics of where exactly you guys are getting all these chips?


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## MaximusPrime (Mar 23, 2011)

I've been really lucky so far, but I am going to remain vigilant and bring it to my dealer the moment I notice any.


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## texas_silver_streak (Apr 16, 2011)

MUDFLAPS on a car??? I got 'em on my 4 X 4 yeah! but on a car????? Can someone post a pic? I gotta see this. LOL


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## RS LTZ (Jan 5, 2011)

I have a LTZ RS and no paint chips.

I wonder if the RS rocker moldings are helping to keep the rocks away from the corners?? I have about 3700 miles on my Cruze so I'm sure I should have seen chips by now if they were going to happen (I hope).


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## cruzeman (Mar 13, 2011)

here are the oem mudguards,,hoping this will help me!!


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

RS LTZ said:


> I have a LTZ RS and no paint chips.
> 
> I wonder if the RS rocker moldings are helping to keep the rocks away from the corners?? I have about 3700 miles on my Cruze so I'm sure I should have seen chips by now if they were going to happen (I hope).


I would be inclined to think so. I have a Protege5 that has the MazdaSpeed aero package which includes extended rocker panels and bulges behind the wheel openings like the RS package. The car is nearly eight years old and no chips behind the wheel wells.


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