# FYI: To All Wanting To LOWER



## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

You HAVE to replace nuts and bolts when you R/R nuts and bolts holding suspension into place. Had it not been for Pedders 20% charge for restocking fee, I would have canceled my order!!! Look forward to a $50 bill for the new hardware to replace your new hardware on the car!!!! GM used torque to yeild nuts on the following which you will NEED to replace and re-torque them to the proper specs:
1. You need the bolts that go through the bottom of the shock into the rear axle (one for each side, two total)

2. You need bolts that hold the strut to the steering knuckle (2 for each side, total 4 bolts)

3. You need the sway bar endlink nuts where they attach to the strut( 1 each side, 2 total)

If you have a friend that works for GM, which is great for me!!! I'm cutting my cost in half by having him order the parts for me, some of you may not be so lucky.


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

i'm not hating just curious where your getting this info

and also what are you talking about with the rear axle and shock? are you talking about the lower shock mount?


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

GM technicians, but if you don't believe me, go ahead and re-use!!! or at least try


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

FieroItaliano85 said:


> GM technicians, but if you don't believe me, go ahead and re-use!!! or at least try


lol don't believe GM techs with regards to aftermarket parts, for the most part they're completely ignorant to them and will tell you anything to not use them. I'm not saying this might be real, you can probably verify with ISM our vendor here but I don't believe anything GM techs tell me regarding any non-GM part


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

so im screweddd??? i have pedders coming any day now


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

shawn672 said:


> lol don't believe GM techs with regards to aftermarket parts, for the most part they're completely ignorant to them and will tell you anything to not use them. I'm not saying this might be real, you can probably verify with ISM our vendor here but I don't believe anything GM techs tell me regarding any non-GM part


This is not an aftermarket/OEM part deal. This is, if a GM tech where to have to replace the strut/shocks, they would have to replace all the above mentioned parts. I'm just as pissed off about it as the next guy. I'm making people aware that they will HAVE to replace the parts mentioned if they want to lower their car. Not find out about it after they tore it apart.

Also, my friend of 21 years(we go back to preschool) is a GM tech and did the research for me. I believe him over anyone, thanks.


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

CHEVYCRUZE RS said:


> so im screweddd??? i have pedders coming any day now


You aren't screwed, you just have to go order those parts from your dealership.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Or order from any number of GM dealers that sell online for cheaper than the local GM dealer. Unless one has a hookup at the local dealer.


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

I am just suprised that there are 5 spring companies(eibach, b&g, h&r, pedders and dgr) that have springs out and have never once mentioned this issue.


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

osiris10012 said:


> I am just suprised that there are 5 spring companies(eibach, b&g, h&r, pedders and dgr) that have springs out and have never once mentioned this issue.


This...


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## Sheldon (Jul 25, 2011)

My cruze is fine, I run lowered king springs.


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

Sheldon said:


> My cruze is fine, I run lowered king springs.


And you installed them and you re-used your stock parts? 

I'm not making this shiit up guys, why the **** would I want to go buy extra parts when I just paid $380 for springs....


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

i can tell you that after i got the first set of test fit b&g's on my cruze i had to put a new set of front springs on due to them needing a little more of a drop(after 6000 miles) and when i went to loosen everything(all original hardware) it was so tight i had to double up on wrenches for the extra leverage to break them loose. i would definitely like to know whats up with the torque to yield hardware. once again i am not saying you or your friend is wrong i would just like to hear of this issue from more than one person.

hey insanespeed have you heard of this issue and if not think you could find out for us. thanks


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## gregeshleman (Jan 6, 2011)

*GM SERVICE MANUAL PROCEDURE*


Strut Assembly Removal and Installation 
*Special Tools*

_CH-49375 _Wrench

*Procedure*


Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.









Separate the brake hose (1) from the shock absorber.








B
Remove the steering knuckle nuts and bolts (1). *DISCARD the bolts*.









Remove and *DISCARD the stabilizer shaft link nut* (1) from the front strut.
Lower the vehicle.
Open the hood.









Remove the upper strut mount nut (1), use the _CH-49375 _wrench .
Remove the strut mounting plate (2).
Separate the front strut from the knuckle.
Remove the front strut assembly from the vehicle.
For servicing the individual strut components, refer to Strut, Strut Component, or Spring Replacement.
*Installation Procedure*


Install the front strut assembly.*Caution: *Refer to Fastener Caution in the Preface section.










Install the strut mounting plate (2).
Install the upper strut mount nut (1), using the _CH-49375 _wrench and tighten to *45 N·m (34 lb ft)*.









Insert the front strut in the knuckle.*Warning: *Refer to Torque-to-Yield Fastener Warning in the Preface section.
Tighten the steering knuckle nuts and NEW bolts (1) a first pass to *90 N·m (66 lb ft) +60 - 70 degrees*.
Tighten the steering knuckle nuts and bolts a final pass to *plus 60 to 70 degrees*.









Install a NEW stabilizer shaft link nut (1) and tighten to *65 N·m (48 lb ft)*.









Install the brake hose (1) to the strut.
Install the front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
Lower the vehicle.
Check the front camber alignment specifications. Refer to Front Camber Adjustment.


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

THANK YOU!!!! Was just about to do this!!!!


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

nice i appreciate the clarity on this subject. do you have the rear suspension remove and install


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## gregeshleman (Jan 6, 2011)

Rear Spring Replacement 
*Removal Procedure*


Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Support the rear axle with a tall jack stand near the shock absorber.
If the springs are being removed to service other components and the spring tags are missing, mark the position of the rear spring to ensure proper installation.
Remove the lower shock absorber bolts. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement.
Using the tall jack stands, slowly lower the rear axle in order to remove tension from the rear springs.









Remove the spring (1).









Remove the upper spring seat/jounce bumper (1) from the spring, while leaving the lower spring seat on the axle.
*Installation Procedure*












Install the upper spring seat/jounce bumper (1) on the spring.









*Note: *If the spring is equipped with tags, ensure that the tags are at the upper rear portion of the spring. If marks were made during removal, ensure the marks are properly aligned.
Install the spring (1) making sure the lower coil is seated into the lower spring seat.
Using the jack stands, raise the rear axle in order to compress the rear springs.
Install the lower shock absorber bolts. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement.
Lower the vehicle.


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

wow thanks for this its definitely going to help everyone out. the only other question i have is do you mind throwing up the rear shock remove and install so we can see the proper torque to put on the new lower bolt? i appreciate all the help this definitely clears up alot of questions.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

The design of the GM nuts/bolts is a "torque to yield design". They were the exact same instructions for any bolts on my Trans Am suspension, which I re-used with no problems while beating the crap out of it at the track. I am sure you can safely re-use all of the bolts and any of the nuts (as long as they don't have a nylon thread lock) and you won't have any issues. Just put a little blue loctite on them and they are not going anywhere.


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## gregeshleman (Jan 6, 2011)

Shock Absorber Replacement 










Callout
Component Name


*Preliminary Procedures*


Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
1
Rear Shock Absorber Bolt.
*Warning: *Refer to Torque-to-Yield Fastener Warning in the Preface section.
*Caution: *Refer to Fastener Caution in the Preface section.


*Procedure*


Support the rear axle with a suitable jack stand.
Install NEW bolt. Do NOT reuse old bolt.
Support the front of the vehicle and raise the rear axle to proper r-height. Refer to Trim Height Specifications.
Use _EN-45059 _angle meter for additional tightening.
*Tighten*
First Pass: 150 N·m (111 lb ft)
Final Pass: additional 60 - 70 degrees.
*Special Tools*

_EN-45059 _Torque Angle Sensor Kit
For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools.
2
Rear Shock Absorber Bolt (Qty: 2)
*Tighten*
100 N·m (74 lb ft)
3
Rear Shock Absorber
4
Rear Shock Absorber Nut
*Tighten*
20 N·m (15 lb ft)
5
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Mount
6
Rear Shock Absorber Bumper Upper


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

im going to re-use and see what happens lol.......my pedders are coming in shortly!!


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## getblended (Jun 15, 2011)

No one has mentioned it because you don't need to replace those things. You can if you want to, but its not necessary. Save your money


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

NBrehm said:


> The design of the GM nuts/bolts is a "torque to yield design". They were the exact same instructions for any bolts on my Trans Am suspension, which I re-used with no problems while beating the crap out of it at the track. I am sure you can safely re-use all of the bolts and any of the nuts (as long as they don't have a nylon thread lock) and you won't have any issues. Just put a little blue loctite on them and they are not going anywhere.


This.. while GM might recommend their techs to replace the bolts and link when changing it out, doesn't mean you have to.. Just be sure to get it torqued down correctly if you can and 2nd to the loctite suggestion, a little dab before threading the bolt and you're good to go


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

I'm not taking chances...better safe than sorry. This is the first I have heard/seen something like this. I've always re-used as well. Not this time though.


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## dragnframe (May 27, 2011)

If everybody who modded there car put new nuts on each time, GM wouldn't have needed to get bailed out. Trust me, use your old ones


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## Skilz10179 (Mar 22, 2011)

I didn't bother reading passed the first couple posts, just reuse your stock hardware and you'll be fine...


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## limited360 (May 6, 2011)

Stock re-use is my plan...


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## R1XSTA (Aug 30, 2011)

Hey ChevyCruze, its been a few days. Surely your springs are in now. How the standard bolts holding up?


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

I still haven't got mine, so I am sure he hasn't got his


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## kevin1214 (Feb 26, 2011)

i lowered and used all my stock parts... ^_^ works fine but when i turn my wheels slowly there is like a DUNK sound  but only when i turn my wheel REAL slow.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

My cruze is running pedders witth a 1.5" drop all around and its running perfect. I kept all the stock nuts and bolts on lol


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

CHEVYCRUZE RS said:


> My cruze is running pedders witth a 1.5" drop all around and its running perfect. I kept all the stock nuts and bolts on lol


chevycruze rs...the ride looks really good. makes me want those wheels even more..i have the b&g's on mine and at first we had the same issue with the front sitting higher. after taking measurements we noticed that the car was actually sitting level its just the the front fenderwell is larger than the rear giving it the illusion in height difference do to the fender gap being larger. it looks like yours is sitting alot lower in the rear than mine...looks awesome..keep us updated...thanks for the info and pics


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Thanks Osiris, Yeah the back of my car is SLAMMED lol, my JDM buddies thought I had coilovers for a second thats how low my rear is in real life. Unfortunantly, the front is whats killing me, I gotta make both gaps equal to make me completely satisfied lol. 

What do you think im better off doing......cutting my stock springs or cutting the pedders springs? At this point i really dont care i just want both gaps equal. Id have to cut off 2 coils on each spring (only in the front)


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## osiris10012 (Feb 4, 2011)

i myself wouldn't cut either of them. cutting them down could potentially cause some issues. your springs are specifically designed for the spring rate and amount of coils in the spring and many other factors. i am not a professional by all means but i have never heard of any good coming out of cutting springs. a professional would be your best bet for advice on this subject.


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## FieroItaliano85 (Aug 5, 2011)

CHEVYCRUZE RS said:


> My cruze is running pedders witth a 1.5" drop all around and its running perfect. I kept all the stock nuts and bolts on lol


You got your already???? WTF!!!! I am so pissed. What are they doing, sending 1 set over at a time? Jesus:angry:


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## FatKidsCruze (Sep 2, 2011)

CHEVYCRUZE RS said:


> Thanks Osiris, Yeah the back of my car is SLAMMED lol, my JDM buddies thought I had coilovers for a second thats how low my rear is in real life. Unfortunantly, the front is whats killing me, I gotta make both gaps equal to make me completely satisfied lol.
> 
> What do you think im better off doing......cutting my stock springs or cutting the pedders springs? At this point i really dont care i just want both gaps equal. Id have to cut off 2 coils on each spring (only in the front)


This is why Pedders coilovers are in my ECO's future!


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## JusticePete (Oct 6, 2011)

GM has been using TTY bolts in the suspension number of years. The caliper bolts have been TTY for maybe 20 years. The TTY tightening process is torque to XX pounds and then turn an additional XX degrees. TTY bolts are more secure than a standard bolt and that is why GM is using them. The downside is availability. When you can't get them from GM what do you do? The official answer is to wait for the parts from GM and always follow the GM assembly instructions. Not everyone does. Some technicians make them tight to the German spec of Gudentight and use LocTite.


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## VGT (Oct 9, 2011)

Read what happens to a TTY bolt when torquing, and then decide if you think you should reuse them. Quit being _cheap_, sounds like a Honda forum in here.


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