# Anybody Do the timing belt themselves



## JRB'sOilburningCruze (Feb 25, 2015)

$800 for the whole job is not bad. My dealer quoted me $1,370.00. I will be doing it myself. Have 40,000 more miles to go. Between now and then someone will have a YouTube video on how to do it.....

I think the trick is getting #1 on TDC, and locking the cams. Once cams are locked and #1 on TDC, I think it is mainly an exercise of knuckle busting and lots of swearing. Block the engine, pull the front motor mount, remove covers etc, and put everything back with the correct torque settings. I'll get a subscription to Alldata when I try it. They are usually pretty helpful.


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## rescueswimmer (Mar 28, 2013)

I have an all data subscription. Its a great DIY helper and not to costly. Coming from an Aviation background I like knowing torque specs  when I fix things. It looks like it may have more room than the TL I did, I just can't find the tools at a reasonable rate. 

RS


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I researched this when considering the diesel in 2013/2014. I've read the Alldata procedure, and it doesn't look that bad. How tight is it in the engine bay is another question. 

Google the EN tool numbers found in Alldata. You'll find global suppliers of the tools. There's a plug that's removed in the block, and a steel pin that's installed when the crank is at TDC. 

I had a link to a GM training video showing this belt change, but the channel has been removed. There's a company in Italy if I remember correctly that makes equivalent tools which can be obtained from Amazon.uk or other European Amazon sites.


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## CRUISE-CRUZE (Nov 8, 2010)

The 1.4 has a chain as far as I know. Are you talking about 1.8 or the serpentine belt?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

CRUISE-CRUZE said:


> The 1.4 has a chain as far as I know. Are you talking about 1.8 or the serpentine belt?


This is in the 1st Generation Diesel section - this is for the 2.0TD.


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## CRUISE-CRUZE (Nov 8, 2010)

Oopss, my bad!


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## rescueswimmer (Mar 28, 2013)

CRUISE-CRUZE said:


> The 1.4 has a chain as far as I know. Are you talking about 1.8 or the serpentine belt?


Cruise-Cruze your in the Diesel forum.

Well after a closer look that 800.00 did not include the water pump. WTF So its now 1K. I'm just going to order the tools someplace and do it myself. Still should save about 500.00 or more I'm guessing. My TL only gave me about 2" to work and get the belt all lined up. This looks like there should be a good 4 or 5 inches to work with. I have 5000 miles to procure parts and tools.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I've been back and forth on if I want to do this myself or not. 

I generally do all work myself, but I suppose it depends on the timing, how busy I am, and what not. We're pretty far away from it (under 60k miles currently, I believe), so I don't need to worry about making a decision just yet.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

I just did on my 2014. It was a bit tricky. I bought a tool of of eBay, it was just a copy of the GM tool, quality was not to good, had to drill out the holes a bit but, it worked ok.


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## Lugnut (May 4, 2017)

Make sure you get the tools to lock the camshaft and crankshaft in place. This is critical. The eBay kit will do the trick for $60. Once you have those 2 pieces locked in place, the rest is fairly straight forward. If you have ever done a TDI timing belt, then the process is exactly the same. I would HIGHLY recommend doing the idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and water pump at the same time. I bought my kit from IDParts.com. It is a complete kit with Gates parts. Very pleased so far. 

Cruze Diesel Timing Belt Kit - 55580776 - 55580776 - IDParts.com


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

Plus, 10% off through Memorial Day.


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## rescueswimmer (Mar 28, 2013)

Thanks for the info. I had found the crank and cam tools on ebay for 30.00  from what I had read these are correct. I was able to get everything from Rockauto, Almost all Delco stuff, Figured while it was apart I would replace the belt tensioner and idler pulley. With the cruze forum discount it was just shy of 375 shipped.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

I haven't had time to read through the above procedure, but I hope it helps.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

Here some info on timing belt replacement. I hope it is helpful.









[h=3]2014 Chevrolet Cruze 2.0L Eng Diesel[/h] 

Service Manual: TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT - 2.0L (LUZ) DIESEL

Print Date: 6/2/2017



[h=1]*MANUFACTURER'S SUGGESTED SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE*[/h] The manufacturer requires the belt be replace every 97,500 miles or 120 months. If being done at a regular service interval, the belt tensioner, idler pulley and water pump should also be replaced.


[h=1]*SPECIAL TOOLS*[/h] 

 EN-956-1: Extension
 EN-46788: Crankshaft Fixing Tool
 EN-46789: Camshaft Locking Tool
 EN-47634: Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool
 J-43405: Engine Support Fixture Adapter
 J-28467-518: Main Support Beam
 J-28467-1A: Cross Bracket
 J-28467-5A: Strut Tower Support Assembly
 J-28467-2A: Radiator Tube Shelf Assembly
 J-36857: Engine Lift Bracket
 J-28467-8A: Hook Assembly
 

[h=1]*REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION > REMOVAL*[/h] 

 NOTE: If the engine timing belt is being replaced according to the maintenance schedule the timing belt tensioner, idler pulley and water pump must be replaced.


Protect the fender with covers.
Remove the battery cover and disconnect the battery negative cable.
Remove the engine sight shield. Release the engine sight shield retainers by pulling the engine sight shield upwards.
Remove the front wheelhouse liner.
Remove the generator, air conditioning compressor and power steering pump belt (drive belt).
Install the EN-913-A wrench to the tensioner bolt (3). See Fig 1.
Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise, using the EN-913-A wrench in order to release the tension from the drive belt and to insert the EN-6130 holding pin (2). See Fig 1.
Remove the EN-913-A wrench.
Remove the generator, air conditioning compressor and power steering pump belt. See Figure.
Fig 1: Releasing Tension From Drive Belt







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Remove the crankshaft pulley (2). See Fig 2.
Install a wrench on crankshaft sprocket (center) bolt in order to hold the crankshaft. NOTE: The crankshaft sprocket bolt must not be loosened.

Remove the 4 crankshaft pulley bolts (1). See Fig 2.
Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Fig 2: Identifying Crankshaft Pulley







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Remove the belt idler pulley (engine mount side). See Fig 3.Fig 3: Identifying Belt Idler Pulley







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Remove the timing belt front cover. See Fig 4.Fig 4: Identifying Timing Belt Front Cover







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Install the engine support fixture: See Fig 5.
Install the bracket to fender frame (1). NOTE: Do not install bracket to fender frame on top of fender lip.

Adjust the length of the strut tower support assembly (4).
Use a grade 10.9 bolt to install the engine lift bracket hook assembly (6). NOTE: If the engine is not equipped with engine lift bracket, install the J-36857 engine support fixture in place.
Fig 5: Installing Engine Support Fixture







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY
Legend for Fig 5 

Engine Support Fixture Adapter Leg (Qty: 2)
Main Support Beam
Cross Bracket
Strut Tower Support Assembly
Radiator Tube Shelf Assembly
Hook Assembly

Remove the engine mount. See Fig 6.Fig 6: Identifying Engine Mount







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY
Legend for Fig 6 

Engine Mount Bracket Bolt M8 (Qty: 3)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolt M10 (Qty: 3)
Engine Mount Bracket

Remove the engine mount bracket. See Fig 7.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the 2 lower bolts (1). NOTE: Note the different length of bolt.

Attach the engine lifter to the engine lift brackets.
Fig 7: Identifying Engine Mount Bracket







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY
Legend for Fig 7 

Engine Mount Bracket Bolt M8 (Qty: 3)
Engine Mount Bracket Bolt M10 (Qty: 3)
Engine Mount Bracket

Lower the vehicle. NOTE: Avoid the contact with cooling fluid and oil, it will damage the timing belt and can not be reused.

Fig 8: Installing Locking Tool (EN-46789) 







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY 

Set the cylinder 1 to TDC:
Remove the camshaft housing closure bolt.
Install the EN-46789 locking tool (1) in the camshaft housing. See Fig 8.
Turn the engine clockwise until the EN-46789 locking tool (1) audibly engages.

Remove the oil pump bolt (1). See Fig 9.Fig 9: Identifying Oil Pump Bolt







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Install the fixing tool stud (1) of the EN-46788 fixing tool. See Fig 10.Fig 10: Identifying Fixing Tool Stud







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Lock the crankshaft, using the EN-46788 fixing tool (1). See Fig 11.Fig 11: Identifying Fixing Tool (EN-46788) & Extension (EN-956-1)







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Loosen the camshaft sprocket (1). See Fig 12.Fig 12: Identifying Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool (EN-47634)







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY

Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt, by using the EN-47634 holding tool (2) with the EN-956-1 extension (3). See Fig 12.
Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt (2) to release the tension from the timing belt. See Fig 13.
Remove the EN-46788 fixing tool.
Remove the timing belt (1). See Fig 13. NOTE: Observe the direction of timing belt rotation.

Fig 13: Timing Belt Tensioner Bolt







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY
 

[h=1]*REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION > INSTALLATION*[/h] 

Install the NEW timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket.
Lock the crankshaft, using the EN-46788 fixing tool (1). See Figure. NOTE: Make sure that the timing belt does not fall out of the sprocket while installing the EN-46788 fixing tool.


Install the timing belt in the following sequence: (See Fig 1)
Start with the crankshaft sprocket (4).
Second the timing belt tensioner (5).
Third the water pump (6).
Fourth the high pressure pump sprocket (1).
Fifth the camshaft sprocket (2).
The last one is the belt idler pulley (3).
 NOTE: The marks on the timing belt must fit to the marks on the sprockets, see arrows in Fig 1.

NOTE: The timing belt tensioner must be loose.

Fig 1: Timing Belt Routing 







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY 

Bring the tensioner (1) in correct tension. See Fig 2.
Loosen the tensioner bolt.
Bring the mobile index to the reference position (bore), see at arrows in Fig 2.
Tighten the tensioner bolt to 25 (18 lb ft).
 Fig 2: Adjusting Tensioner 







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY 

Fasten the camshaft sprocket bolt. See Figure.
Install the EN-47634 holding tool (2) to the camshaft sprocket (1).
Hold up with the EN-956-1 extension (3) and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 120 (89 lb ft).

Remove the EN-47634 holding tool (2) and the EN-956-1 extension (3). See Figure.
Remove the EN-46788 fixing tool and the EN-46789 locking tool. See Figure.
Rotate the engine 720 degrees. CAUTION: It is absolute necessary that the engine is turned clockwise ONLY.

Check the engine timing.
Install the EN-46789 locking tool. See Figure.
Install the EN-46788 fixing tool. See Figure.

Remove the EN-46789 locking tool and the EN-46788 fixing tool.
Install the oil pump bolt (1) and tighten to 9 (80 lb in). See Figure.
Install the engine mount bracket. See Figure.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Install the bracket bolts. NOTE: Note the different length of bolt.

Attach the engine lifter to the engine lift brackets.

Install the engine mount. See Figure.
Remove the engine support fixture. See Figure.
Install the timing belt front cover. See Figure.
Clip the wiring harness to the timing belt front cover.
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Install the belt idler pulley (engine mount side). See Figure.
Install the crankshaft pulley. See Figure. NOTE: Install a wrench on crankshaft sprocket bolt in order to hold the crankshaft.
NOTE: Make sure the guide pin is in its recess (see arrows). 

Install the generator, air conditioning compressor and power steering pump drive belt.
Install and position the generator, air conditioning compressor and power steering pump drive belt (1) around all of the pulleys. See Fig 3.
Install the EN-913-A wrench to the drive belt tensioner bolt (3). See Figure.
Rotate the tensioner clockwise (see arrow in graphic). See Figure.
Remove the EN-6130 holding pin (2). See Figure.
Rotate the EN-913-A wrench counterclockwise to bring the tension to the drive belt.
Remove the EN-913-A wrench.
 Fig 3: Drive Belt Routing 







Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS COMPANY 

Install the front wheelhouse liner.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the engine sight shield.
Connect the negative battery cable and install the battery cover.
Remove the covers from the fender.
 

[h=1]*TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS*[/h] TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS


ApplicationFt. Lbs.Belt Idler Pulley Bolt18 (25)Camshaft Sprocket Bolt89 (120)Crankshaft Pulley Bolts18 (25)Engine Mount Bolts & Nut46 (62)Engine Mount Bolts To Engine Mount Bracket37 (50)


Engine Mount Bracket Bolts 8 mm18 (25)10 mm37 (50)Timing Belt Tensioner Bolt18 (25)Wheel Lug Nuts100 (136) Inch Lbs.  Wheelhouse Liner Bolts23 (2.5)Oil Pump Bolt80 (9)Timing Belt Front Cover Bolts80 (9) 
 [SUP](1)[/SUP] Then rotate another 60-70 degrees.

  


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

For some reason it removed all the pictures.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Are there any torque to yield bolts involved?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Based on the torque specs, I would say probably not (no additional angle).


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

I know some kits include 3 new engine mount bolts, but it doesn't seem like they're torque to yield, so not sure why.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

started mine this am, so far 2.5 hrs for:
spotting car
jack it up, remove wheel
airbox, timing cover
fender liner

i work slow and had to break out the extractor on one of the t15 fender screws, lol


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I started mine today too. I'm about 1.5 hours in. I chose not to remove the air hose from the turbo and instead just pull that back. Some of the connectors and hose clamps were weird and I didn't want to break them, so I just removed the air hose from the MAF and pulled out the box, still plenty of room. For the clip that goes into the top belt cover I just clipped the zip tie and left the fastener in the cover. Easier to just run a new zip tie. I also pulled out the inner fender panel out.

Tomorrow my plan is to get the radiator drained, support the motor, pull the mount and bottom cover, pull the crank pully, lock everything in with my timing kit and take the belt and pump off. Unless I really screw something up the whole process should only be about 4-5 hours.

So far it has been not frusterating at all, which is nice. Brad's and the other guys videos were nice because knowing what to take off before even trying is a lot easier than just starting and constantly being blocked by something as you are trying to figure it out for yourself. That is very frustrating.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> I started mine today too. I'm about 1.5 hours in. I chose not to remove the air hose from the turbo and instead just pull that back. Some of the connectors and hose clamps were weird and I didn't want to break them, so I just removed the air hose from the MAF and pulled out the box, still plenty of room. For the clip that goes into the top belt cover I just clipped the zip tie and left the fastener in the cover. Easier to just run a new zip tie. I also pulled out the inner fender panel out.
> 
> Tomorrow my plan is to get the radiator drained, support the motor, pull the mount and bottom cover, pull the crank pully, lock everything in with my timing kit and take the belt and pump off. Unless I really screw something up the whole process should only be about 4-5 hours.
> 
> So far it has been not frusterating at all, which is nice. Brad's and the other guys videos were nice because knowing what to take off before even trying is a lot easier than just starting and constantly being blocked by something as you are trying to figure it out for yourself. That is very frustrating.


im 4hrs in now (incl removing the oil filter deflector)

next step is drain and remove tbelt...


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

What is the total time to do this?


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

TheRealHip said:


> What is the total time to do this?


lots saying 4hrs

im gonna be 8hrs (2 4hr days)...but im usually double what the internet says....an air or power ratchet would speed it up a bit

so far its easier than the delete


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I put in another few hours today. So far about 4 hours of actual work and I'm just now putting stuff back together. But I am going slow and taking a lot of breaks. I have the whole weekend to finish so not in a rush.

After I pulled the motor mount piece with the bushing (part on the car) I noticed one of the bolt threads were really chewed with threads missing. I went to five places and no one had the bolts. I finally just cleaned the bolts and threads out as best I could with at tap and die set.

I got the new water pump on today and will be putting everything else back together tomorrow. The top bolt on the WP goes into an oil passage. All three bolts had blue thread locker on them so I put more back on using waterpump safe blue from Permatex.

Having the cam/crank lock kit makes me feel a lot better. So far everything is lining up nicely except the crank had to be rotated backwards about a 1/8" to get aligned. My belt tensioner was way out, so the belt was stretched pretty bad at 123,000 miles.

Here's a picture of the bottom cover and the five sizes, yes FIVE different bolt sizes. I hope this helps the guy that pulls them out without paying attention where they went.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

anybody got bad wear on timing belt idler pulley?...i put a new one on


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Well, that definitely shows why it is recommended to replace it when you replace the timing belt...quite a bit there!


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

@*boraz*

I put a new tensioner and the new idler pulley on mine, but mine was not worn like that. It actually looked quite good and the bearing was still full of grease. I did notice the tensioner pulley had a small dab of red locktie on it. I'm not going to put that back on but I did put some blue on before torquing it. So far it seems the 3 waterpump bolts, the tensioner pulley bolt, and the 2 outside bolts on the lower cover are the only things with locktite.

Got the belt on today and tension set but only had about 2 hours to work on it so didn't get very far. Even with the cam lock, there was no way in hell I was loosening the cam sprocket bolt, so I had issues holding the belt in time on the crank and fitting it over everything. Finally stuffed some paper towel in to hold the belt from slipping down on the bottom and was able to finish getting it routed the tension set.

Tomorrow after the game I'm going to put the covers back on and finish the coolant flush. Will use 4 gallons of distilled water so hopefully that gets most of it out.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> @*boraz*
> 
> I put a new tensioner and the new idler pulley on mine, but mine was not worn like that. It actually looked quite good and the bearing was still full of grease. I did notice the tensioner pulley had a small dab of red locktie on it. I'm not going to put that back on but I did put some blue on before torquing it. So far it seems the 3 waterpump bolts, the tensioner pulley bolt, and the 2 outside bolts on the lower cover are the only things with locktite.
> 
> ...


yeah i did new tensioner and idler

i went the 'no locking tool route' put marks on the block where the 3 gears were, crank never moved, fuel pump moved alot, cam gear backs off a tooth or so when you take the belt off

i stuffed a wedge down in the crank belt area to keep it on the gear while fumbling away up top

yeah there was red loctite on my tensioner bolt, i dont own red loctite cuz anytime i used it at work, always needed a torch to get things undone, so just used blue


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Finished mine up tonight. Drove about 35 miles without issues. Took around 8 hours total. I still have to put my inner wheel well back in and the front bottom cover, just didn't have time to completely flush the cooling system so I will do that tomorrow after work.

One thing I noticed is I can't get to the white bleeder plug on the top of the radiator, way to much in the way. Does anyone know an easy way to get to it?


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

When I did mine I was actually amazed how simple it was considering this kind of stuff on newer cars is usually a pain. Me and a friend of mine got the whole thing done start to finish in about 3 hours, if we had to do it again probably 2 or less. The trick here is...

BUY THE LOCKING TOOLS! Yeah they’re expensive and it sucks to have to buy something like that to only use it once or twice, but it keeps you from having to check pulleys/alignment before, during, and after putting the belt on. Yes it can be done without them, but it really is worth it to use them.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i had a heck of a time with the timing belt tensioner....the lil arrow wouldnt move, couldnt pry it

the angle i was goin at didnt match the video, removed it compared to old one, reinstalled and it magically got into position

putting everything back together was legit easy

will do again myself in 100k miles.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I too had issues with getting the arrow up on the tensioner. I think if the bolt is too tight it won't move, then when you press up on it, the arrow doesn't move until the last second.

The document I have says book time on this job is 2.5 hours (not including the waterpump). I think it could be done if you knew exactly what to do and worked straight through without stopping to look at it and say "what the **** have I got myself into" like I did about a dozen times.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> I too had issues with getting the arrow up on the tensioner. I think if the bolt is too tight it won't move, then when you press up on it, the arrow doesn't move until the last second.
> 
> The document I have says book time on this job is 2.5 hours (not including the waterpump). I think it could be done if you knew exactly what to do and worked straight through without stopping to look at it and say "what the **** have I got myself into" like I did about a dozen times.


it was freaking me out....the tensioner itself was sliding, didnt look like was much more distance for it to slide before the pin would be free, i was just gonna measure how far it was over against the videos, then it worked....i did have the bolt looser that time


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

Here's a kit off amazon very similar to what I bought when I did mine. Makes it fairly easy and gave me piece of mind too. Not a bad job to do all the in all.Highking Tool Diesel Timing Locking Kit for GM Vauxhall Opel SAAB Alfa Romeo Engines 1.9/2.0 CDTI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNYHMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tlsSDbE7SHXC8


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

electrozap_29 said:


> Here's a kit off amazon very similar to what I bought when I did mine. Makes it fairly easy and gave me piece of mind too. Not a bad job to do all the in all.Highking Tool Diesel Timing Locking Kit for GM Vauxhall Opel SAAB Alfa Romeo Engines 1.9/2.0 CDTI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WCNYHMP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tlsSDbE7SHXC8


That's the one I have. Worked well.

You only have to use the black screw and the circle bar for the crank, and one of the two larger bolts with the spring tension for the cam. I suspect the 1.9 probably have to lock both cams? I'm not sure what the rod with a handle on the left and the rectangle thing on the right are for.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

BDCCruze said:


> That's the one I have. Worked well.
> 
> You only have to use the black screw and the circle bar for the crank, and one of the two larger bolts with the spring tension for the cam. I suspect the 1.9 probably have to lock both cams? I'm not sure what the rod with a handle on the left and the rectangle thing on the right are for.


Maybe if you had to retime the cams on a 2.0? That's the only thing I can think for the other spring loaded pin?‍♂


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