# My second Cruze, project "Magpie"



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

After wrecking my first Cruze ( other project thread> black pearl ) I liked it so much I decided on #2, partially because I had a wearhouse of parts and like the performance feel, boy did I lose...


I'm owner #3 and the motor sounds like ****, getting a p0011 code ( intake cam adjuster inconsistent) don't know if that is the cause of the harsh start, but is an issue above 4k rpm on hard throttle. The oil cooler seals are shot too, and the bearing in the tranny for gear #3 is sloppy. I took a brief look under the the engine and looks like the accessory side engine seals are trashed.


Things I need to do for a safety are replace the front brake components and swap the rear coils springs for new.


And first thing to do change the oil. I like quaker state based on price... I change every 5-6k km/ 3500mi oil filter is usually wix as I get 6 at a time from rock auto for Penny's and the wix has a rubber o ring unlike any other with a felt seal.










And... There was regular oil in place. Soon as the snythetic hit it quieted down right away. Hopefully this is the issue.

Got the calipers loaded and ready, but the left side background in the above picture has a big ol snow drift in the way.. I never did make it to the garage due to a big old snow drift in the way. So the lane way was the best way.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I have the stock coil springs off my 2012 if you want to buy them, I'm in Québec and can ship. They're in great shape, DM if you want them


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

landrystephane92 said:


> I have the stock coil springs off my 2012 if you want to buy them, I'm in Québec and can ship. They're in great shape, DM if you want them


Ahhh man thank you, but I got a set of Moog replacements.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Cruzing12 said:


> Ahhh man thank you, but I got a set of Moog replacements.


all good, I have a set of Moog sway bar end links if you want to upgrade yours. I didn't know my coilovers came with adjustable ones.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Loaded the front calipers and break cleaned the rotors. Ready for the break job with a 80cc syringe so I can vacuum it out.

It's sad I can't hit these with primer and paint before I put them on. Hopefully the zinc dip is good enough for a couple months duty till I can get to that.


On the other hand the starting knock is down to 1 second instead of the first 3-5, and P0011 is gone, and overall running an sounding smoother... I don't know if it's track day smooth though as previously once my past car was at temp I'd have it in the 4 to 6is ( went to TMP in Cayuga and trashed in a wet track for 4 straight hours) opt thought timing belt would be liked and oil cooler a must.



.... Wanting to go to Shanonville motor sports park for there track day


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Nice and sparkly...

Got the shop to change over the coils, and passed safety, with a recommendation that I replace the rear struts.


The to do list

Oil cooler
Intake cam actuator (there's an aftermarket solonoid and connector spliced on, every 3rd-ish start problem goes away)
Rear struts
Timing belt

Got a look at under the engine while it was on the hoist, not bad rust wise. But the motor is leaking around the oil pan, rear main and front seal. Judging by the age of the valve cover and factoring in conventional oil use the PVC could need servicing.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Did it with electrical tape, tried painting the last car but life doesn't have time for that.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

All done.









Not bad.

Changed the gear oil out, one bottle amsoil gear and a bottle n a half of amsoil Synchromesh. And some 600km later the shifting has improved, idling sound has improved, and milage is a tad better.

The unfortunate thing 5th an 6th bearings whine up to 2200rpm and sometimes growl. Shifting hard from second to third there is a double clunk noise coming from the tranny. So yeah bearings are needed for this one. 


I'm hoping I can call the scrap yard and track down my last car, see if I can get myself the tranny so I can freshen it up an do a swap in a weekend instead of a multi week rebuild.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Little update,

Been 2500km and the tranny oil is working its magic, there's still bearing noise though but shifting is as it should be now.


Researching oil passages in the motor and possible ways to clean them out as well as where the check valves are. Been 3500km since the synthetic oil change and the engine oil is that black shade that needs changing. 

So oil change, some marvel mystery oil added in and oil filter swap some... 400km in? to hopefully clean it up, cam rattle hasn't been too pronounced on start up but the p0011 code is still present.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Just put on order the last of the tuneup parts, should hopefully be able to do everything this weekend... hopefully, I've been a little un attentive in my motivation. so, this weekend's to do list, change the front wheels over, change oil, engine air filter, oil cooler, and timing belt coolant top off slash a check engine light code for the rad temp sensor not reading right. the P0011 cam code will wait as may 1st is coming quick

stuff on hand,

Quaker State synthetic 5w30
Two "big box premium oe spec" oil filters 
bottle of marvel mystery oil. 
fram engine air filter
3 gallon distilled water, plus empty jugs
skp replacement oil cooler 
9 exhaust studs and nuts plus manifold seal
stuff to come

new ac delco spark plugs
continental timing belt kit
two temp sensors
haven't read the guide on the MMO but assume adding it in during a idle prior to the oil change and swapping the oil filter out after a couple 100km could do it some good. i've been keeping an eye on the oil and about the 3000km mark its gone dark enough to consider changing. fact it sat so long and had regular oil there may be some crud. 









It sucks when you plan and you end up doing half. Took a wire wheel to the drums and and surfaces. got the rear drums tightened up, and in that fit of energy called it a day putting on the rear rims in my avatar pic, DAI Apex 16",


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Today's the day. I'm looking forward to fooling around and wrenching on the car. One more thing I gotta check out is the ac compressor... The car stalls every time the ac clutch engages.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Mmmkay full parts haul









Mmm yeah look at that 151 thousand km in a OEM filter... Boy.









Plugs look good all were loose Sept for cylinder 1. Cylinders 2,3,4 seem to have alot of deposits built up on them.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

More new lug nuts. Black 7 spline to go with the summer rims.









She's a self lubricator. Most the oil on this side appears to be from the oil pan... Hopefully not the front timing seal.









Didn't get a better shot of the front but the oil travels up to the oil cooler and oil pressure sensor. 

And this about summarizes all the work I did. I tried going for the timing belt, but who has thin wall reverse torque. In my previous car I got lucky using a 8mm socket on the timing cover but not this time.

The oil cooler i stopped at the dipstick tube turns out the self lubrication doesn't cover dipstick tubes as the bottom is rusted into the oil pan. So next oil change I'll rip out the tube sand, prime, an paint. And take care of that later


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Placed on order a dip stick seal and a doorman oil cooler seal kit. I'm looking into the oil pressure sensor too..


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

And I finally got to the timing belt. I broke the cover, the brass insert spun so it was a sol moment. There's no oil seepage on the timing side, but the idler bearing did poop its contents everywhere so a bit of grim with all the belt dust. Given that I washed the timing cover, hermonic balancer and gave a soapy scrub to the inside... The p0011 code looks strong with this one... New soliniod, new cam gear "Ina china" complements of the previous purchaser. Although original belts/ rollers. The water pump seems to have a couple seeping spots better veiwed without the timing cover on.











Stressing that you need the "special" lock tool to change your belt? Naw easy peasy the exhaust cam is a easy one hander to twist. I do recommend the carry over method with this. Marking spots with sharpy as pictured below, makes for a fool proof way as you verify the belt Length carrying over the marks, and everything is marked on the gears.










And back to better. The car runs a little more responsive. And quieter

Weird notes I thought I torqued the crank bolt, and on start up the bolts threaded out. After reinstalling I turned on the car and the headlights were blinking along with the parking brake on warning beeper, even though I didn't have the parking brake drawn. Second start up the lights still blinked and the next start it was back to normal.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

good stuff, the sort of maintenance I hope to be doing this summer.

on another note, what direction does that crank turn? clockwise of counter-clockwise?


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

landrystephane92 said:


> good stuff, the sort of maintenance I hope to be doing this summer.
> 
> on another note, what direction does that crank turn? clockwise of counter-clockwise?


So facing the engine as pictured it will be a clock wise rotation. With the slack and tensioner on the left. Fyi the tensioner has a two stage spring so there's a lot more travel for installing the belt.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Can you possibly measure the outside diameter of the ribs for me, that would be greatly appreciated


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

landrystephane92 said:


> Can you possibly measure the outside diameter of the ribs for me, that would be greatly appreciated


Auhhh, I'm not sure what rib you mean


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Cruzing12 said:


> Auhhh, I'm not sure what rib you mean


The crankshaft pulley, the harmonic balancer, if it's easier, you can measure circumference by wrapping a tape around it. I'll extrapolate.

edit : I'm asking because this is a measurement I don't have yet to finish my supercharger calculations.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

landrystephane92 said:


> The crankshaft pulley, the harmonic balancer, if it's easier, you can measure circumference by wrapping a tape around it. I'll extrapolate.
> 
> edit : I'm asking because this is a measurement I don't have yet to finish my supercharger calculations.


No beans bro, it was a work night so I had to drive it to work in the morning, but if I'm in there again I will.... And I assumed that too, been keeping an eye on your build


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Cruzing12 said:


> No beans bro, it was a work night so I had to drive it to work in the morning, but if I'm in there again I will.... And I assumed that too, been keeping an eye on your build


dangit, oh well haha

looking at parts on rockauto I found that said 142mm, so I'm wondering if that's the right dimensions because it doesn't look the same.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

landrystephane92 said:


> dangit, oh well haha
> 
> looking at parts on rockauto I found that said 142mm, so I'm wondering if that's the right dimensions because it doesn't look the same.


physically 142mm sounds about right as i recall it being in the 5-6" range.




Can't wait.... So tomorrow I hit the highway at 330am to be in Shanonville by 7-715. 3.5hr drive. 8hr track day. Poor car is going to be a rented mule by days end, not to mention myself at ...8... 3.5...2... =15hrs.. give or take 16hrs total.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Track time went well. Wasted half a tank bombing there at 3k rpm almost the whole 3.5 hrs there. Coming back was a quarter tank lol. Took an easy coming back on the back roads opting for a more scenic route.

As for the day there was eight 20minute sessions. Just long enough to make the car work up a smell, coolant temperature didn't change, but smelled of burning oilly, rubbery... Something. Felt pretty good doing corners at speed that floating feeling as you are turning. turn in was good and had oversteer, quite nimble as I've read everywhere.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

and growing pains, i've recently noticed a binding noise from the front right strut. upon inspection the spring is loose in its perch. so i guess that is another part on the list... and talking about the list i've got two radiator support brackets coming in. i was doing my normal engine bay inspection and seen one bracket completely gone.


Flipping to the tranny, there is an occasional wine in 2nd, 4th an 6th wine regardless now with 6th feeling sluggish. 1st no problems, 3rd, have to give it time shifting from 2nd above 5k rpms, 5th seems to be no problem. At 155k KM. So I'm guessing the 2,4,6 gear spool got shimmed too tight from factory, or 6th gear bearing is going out prematurely?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> View attachment 297362
> 
> And I finally got to the timing belt. I broke the cover, the brass insert spun so it was a sol moment. There's no oil seepage on the timing side, but the idler bearing did poop its contents everywhere so a bit of grim with all the belt dust. Given that I washed the timing cover, hermonic balancer and gave a soapy scrub to the inside... The p0011 code looks strong with this one... New soliniod, new cam gear "Ina china" complements of the previous purchaser. Although original belts/ rollers. The water pump seems to have a couple seeping spots better veiwed without the timing cover on.
> 
> ...


*Service Bulletin - NHTSA*
*Outdated but related: **TSB# 14371A: Water Pump special coverage*


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> Track time went well. Wasted half a tank bombing there at 3k rpm almost the whole 3.5 hrs there. Coming back was a quarter tank lol. Took an easy coming back on the back roads opting for a more scenic route.
> 
> As for the day there was eight 20minute sessions. Just long enough to make the car work up a smell, coolant temperature didn't change, but smelled of burning oilly, rubbery... Something. Felt pretty good doing corners at speed that floating feeling as you are turning. turn in was good and had oversteer, quite nimble as I've read everywhere.


FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir
Antifreeze Smell Thread
Cruze Cabin Odors, Sources, and Resolution Summary
2013 Cruze oil smell from heater
Heat Is Causing A Bad Oil Smell?


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Only update so far...

Got backed into by a 2010 Toyota Tacoma. They're backing out onto the street and hit my car, pushing it up against the curb throwing off the camber.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Guy that's giving the repair estimate said it looks like they'd write it off.

So this is it guys, no more than an empty tank and driving it like I stole it till I know.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Finally got tired of filling up, and bleeding the coolant system a couple times a week and decided to change the bottom hose clamp. And the arfing petcock had no drain hole lol. So I uscrewd the whole plug and did the slow drain.


Got it all bleed and topped off, and so far it's dry... Sucks having to repair a possibly condemned car.

On a side note the PCV is done. Pulling the dip stick there isn't the break in vacuum, undoing the oil cap sound as thought how the pulling of the dip stick should sound, and finally, engine is stumbly below 2000rpm. 

the transmission is doing better. i decided another half liter of oil couldn't hurt and well it's helped, whine is down to 3rd and 4th gear and only under moderate acceleration.


Still no word on insurance yet


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Insurance got back to me, and they're want to write it off. Sadly they are low balling as the pay out doesn't cover a replacement at market value

Time to see what my options are, like the design is simple so I see another 500k km left in the car. I don't know about Ontario legislation but the insurance company has previously gave me the run around about needing a "OMVIC" license to buy back my previous car.


Like driving hasn't been a problem, neerly 2000km I've put on since being hit, and the rear end looks better. 


Twats


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

I'm going to just roll with it for now, hence finally finding a name for this car "Ghost". I contacted the body shop that did the quote for the insurance company and they quoted 10,350 to fix it, essentially repainting the whole side of the car. visited a couple other repair shops and neither got what I was asking for, gave me a straight answer. I did however stop by the scrap yard and for 200 bucks I could have a bolt up ready door, and with a hard wood block and mini sledge i could work some therapeutic magic on my baby, say including the door 800 bucks

now last I have to do is attempt to contact the guy and see if he'd like to settle it without insurance, and or how much he'd be comfortable paying.


on the other hand I'm getting antsy I'm 200 km away from an oil change and have parts I must put on,


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

officially past 10,000km and now at 5400km on the oil, still looks decent.

stripped down the hit door and ordered a new one in black, not sure how stripped out the door i ordered is, but all the hardware on the original seems good.

water level seems to be holding for the first time in, ever.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

A familiar look not too long ago. It was my first Cruze I had to replace both radiator supports due to a ditch jump, this time around mother nature got to this fine specimen ( hardly) and the bracket gave way.









Driver's side radiator support bracket.









A rather simple job... Well I scrapped everything off and also covered everything in fluid film. Then between the cross member and bracket I applied impact grease, should be good to go for a while.









Passenger side radiator support bracket and more fluid film.









And I haven't seen a common picture so I'll post it here. This is the radiator temp sensor, changed that and one of the CEL code went away.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

And last thing.









Fully loaded door.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Long weekend coming up, so will... Have to do something to the car. The car is back to leaking coolant this time from the oil cooler that I still haven't done yet.

Took a look at swapping doors and everything looks easy. The wire for the door simply plugs in. And there isn't too much in the way.

Fyi driving on the highway there's a low pressure cuase of how the door is opened slightly. Came off the highway and ears were poping lol


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

don't look at the dog taking a ****, instead look at the missing door. Took a look and feel of the right hand door well and carried that over best I could to the driver's side. A simple(custom) block of wood and a hammer got it feeling good enough to close with no binding or hard pushing









In natural light the colors don't seem mismatched at all. My car is covered in gravel dust, an pollen.









And the snitzel I'm going to have to live with. The latch for the door did get pushed in an up. I figure a big enough hammer may encourage it to come out. But other than a slide hammer I'm not sure on how I'd apply outward force.









Next is drop the wheel, wheel liner. And hammer it out. Not sure if a heat gun would help everything flex better. But I'm going to need to touch up and paint.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

And the saga continues. Every single exhaust nut came off flawlessly. and like last time I reused all the hardware, sept for the bottom left nut as it rusted too much.










And I found my oil seep. The oil cooler was absolutely covered in oil, and dried coolant. The seals baked smoother than glass. I got a doorman oil cooler seal kit in, along with a skp oil cooler assembly. Changed all the seals associated with it and swapped coolers. "Fyi the doorman oil cooler kit didn't come with the thermostat return pipe seal" so I flipped the seal over and it's working so far.









Filthy










So this little pipe is sketchy there's no stopper going into the block.









Everything worked out good. No leaks, but I did get an air pocket resulting in the "ac off" warning. Just needed a good burp.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

So one thing I noticed, or want to do, is reroute this wire above to the left of the water pump outlet and further away from the exhaust manifold and possibly make a heat sheild too. Right now I'm rocking no heat sheild just to make sure there's no leaks. It doesn't feel right having that raw heat out there like that.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Lol insurance lives.

So a month out I just get a call from a new adjuster. Previous one quit and left no info so new guy still thinks cars at the shop, and some how I'm going to give it up to em.


Talk to your manager.
,

Day after the body shop giving the quote called and asked if I had all my belongings out of my car as they were going to tow it away that day, and asked if I was going to be paying up for the rental.

Oh boy.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

160k km 580mi short of 100k miles. Usual is 7.2l/100km but out of city driving with no bumper air intake dam I'm about 5.2-6l/100km. Real good, about 750km a tank.


Other news, the oil cooler has some how solved my P0011 timing code, I assume there's debris in the oil cooler since it goes through the cooler before the filter. So I'll have to rip it apart out of curiosity. Currently CEL free.



mini update, p0011 is back. put on over 800km this weekend. also i comfirmed my my suspicion that a wheel sensor is dirty. the last i'd say 3 weeks there's been the ocasional abs/traction pump clicking upon initial movement. and during a hoon sesh this weekend i shifted and dumped clutch right as the road transitioned from pavement to gravel resualting in a momentary burn out, followed by the "service abs!, service traction control!" whipped out the obd2 computer then and there to find the right rear sensor acting up, first i'll try cleaning the encoder rin of debris as they have a habit of collecting magnetic dust.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

So I don't know how but I've been relatively vibration free, after the backing into... Today I wanted to adjust the drum brake as the parking brake has been a little deeper a pull than usual, a typical drum problem. well that rim that took the hit has a inch and a half wobble in it.









Right at the top.

Totally shocked, inspected the tire and no abnormal wear. But there does seem to be a uneven pressure mark where the rim meets the drum face, and visibly looks like the itsy bitsy spokes saved the day. Least the DAI Apex rims run about 200/PC. Plus 100 install.

Insurance asked for the invoice for the replacement door and said the car would need to go on a "frame rack". So I ordered up replacement struts, gold spec Delco water pump ,and a rear wheel bearing as the sensor has coincidentally stopped working.



Also on the side I ordered a transmission fluid cooler, eventually I want to do more demanding stuff, and longer drives.


And lastly in a multi point cooling system that is old, when you fix one problem it typically moves as it allows for higher operating temps and pressure. Blawh blawh my next leak isn't the water pump that looks like it is leaking but the upper hose connection to the heater core has popped a seal.

Upon letting the car cool off, turns out the top hose was never seated to begin with, from when I assume whoever did the clutch job/ engine swap, that suns a bee been holding with the safety clip on the wrong side of the pipe. Wow.

Boy


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Cars been good, boiled out almost a gallon of coolant when the feed pipe slide off the heater core inlet.


Changed out the wobbly wheel. I figure the wheel bearing is cooked as I had an hours drive to get to where my extra wheels are and the drum was almost untouchably hot. Explains the wheel speed sensor not working to a tee.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> Cars been good, boiled out almost a gallon of coolant when the feed pipe slide off the heater core inlet.
> 
> 
> Changed out the wobbly wheel. I figure the wheel bearing is cooked as I had an hours drive to get to where my extra wheels are and the drum was almost untouchably hot. Explains the wheel speed sensor not working to a tee.


So, did you buy it back from the insurance company? I lost the thread awhile ago.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> So, did you buy it back from the insurance company? I lost the thread awhile ago.


Nope, it's been a dick ache.

The adjuster assigned to me quite, so that was a whole month without contact. FF to early July they gave me a buy out quote as their "certified" body shop was going to work the car bumper to bumper for $11k. At that point I said arf off and that I AM KEEPING MY CAR, the other guy left his info and their company is accepting full responsibility.

So I went to a body shop got a quote and sent it off, currently they're still calculating it out, they asked me last week for the invoice for the door, and I'll be sending out the quote I got for the replacement wheel today.


Door-250
Rim -270
Quarter panel- 1600
Wheel bearing 150


Feeling frustrated, I usually have 1 day a week free time fill it with working on the car. but I've been keeping it to the essentials because idk how it's going to play out. There's body work I'm aching to do "as I picked it up in March," right now it looks like a POS and everybody that's looked at it is treating it as such, because i don't know k if I'm going to be wasting 10+hrs polishing the body back to normal for nothing



Sadly the quarter panel is just the dent they're going to "pull" it out via tack and pull. Preferably I'd like to cut it out and weld a new one in as that would be the best way to get the body lines perfect and would take care of the rust spot I have too...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> Nope, it's been a dick ache.
> 
> The adjuster assigned to me quite, so that was a whole month without contact. FF to early July they gave me a buy out quote as their "certified" body shop was going to work the car bumper to bumper for $11k. At that point I said arf off and that I AM KEEPING MY CAR, the other guy left his info and their company is accepting full responsibility.
> 
> ...


Buy your own welder with the stud option and do it yourself. Might be near in price, but you get the equipment.


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## Mark cruze diesel (Oct 3, 2019)

Blasirl said:


> Buy your own welder with the stud option and do it yourself. Might be near in price, but you get the equipment.


What's a good stud welder? My car has a dented in rocker I'd like to fix sometime maybe


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Buy your own welder with the stud option and do it yourself. Might be near in price, but you get the equipment.



awh yeah, was thinking more invasive.....





....










Cut starting at the middle of the door well "as that rust is.... structural paint there is no metal" and carry that over to the trunk under the bumper cover and go up as far needed for best form. A brief verbal quote from the salvage lot said about 500 for a quarter cut. Arf alot faster and possibly cheaper than the labor would be to pull it out.


Most of the issue is waiting on insurance. If it was a hit n run it'd be a partially different situation, an out of pocket one. With alot less red tape, but compensation is better than nothing.








Oh @Blasirl
Yeah, I'm looking at it that way. I had priced out rebuilding the transmission and going to a shop to get it dealt with.... I could get a used tranny, new bearing kit, and an engine hoist for the price of them only taking the transmission out of the car.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Progress.

Insurance wants me to go get an inspection/ alignment done and go from there.

Right now I know I'd need a right hand strut. And the rear wheel bearing. 








Gold spec water pump, Moog wheel bearing, two Monroe quick struts.












Yeah I forget to tell myself I'm building a tranny cooler setup for sedan class tractor pulls.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> awh yeah, was thinking more invasive.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just remember --- it is a Cruze (not a Supra).


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Just remember --- it is a early 2000's CIVIC (not a Supra).


Had to lol.

Yes it's an econo car. For myself, something that I can easily work on, parts are cheap. And enough power for what I want/ track capable enough to run with the miatas.

I guess my current pride n joy, only current hobby. Previously I've fixed bikes as a kid for money, still play with my RC monster trucks. So I veiw the car as a bigger rc lol.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

yesterday pried the drum off to prep it for the mechanic to take a look. drilled an "inspection port" in the face of the drum but the adjuster was seized so no bueno, but a good concept since there is no access port for the adjuster. 



I am in the prosses of checking out the p0011, I checked with the obd2 scanner and it's now accompanied by a p0010/ an high idle. i unplugged the solenoids and guess(well I hope) I found my problem. the connector for the intake solenoid is in pieces and most likely isn't making connection.

it's a shame. the previous owner got the parts cannon at it.... vvt sproket, vvt solenoid, timing belt, cams pulled ( there's non factory sealer on the vvt cam cap) and quite possibly the head too.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

So what I found was a darn shame, and a reason I don't go to garages.









(Found it, ac Delco PT3182 )
Connector is in pieces, blades not making contact. I'd be pissed paying all that money for a mechanic to try n slip that under the carpet.

I Jerry rigged it but it didn't last more than 10 minutes. Called the parts shop, nope. Called the dealership, everything but. So off to see if there are any close by scrap yards.



If worst comes to worst I'll solder the wires to the solenoid pins.









Screen was clean, that little spec below came out with the valve body.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

So drove into work with the wiring for the solenoid disconnected, having a p0010,p0011, and high idle. 

Disconnected the car drives so much better. But still in a reduced power mode.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Okay, one last look into finding a connector and boom baby.
It's a AC Delco PT3182. Sku- *19300960.*

Other good news the car got a 4 wheel alignment and nothing was off with the rear. That an I'm currently going junk yarding for the connector, cam sprocket slap is strong.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Okay scrap yard paid off










Car runs, has power. I'll run the OBD2 later to clear/ check codes. Right now best that's happening. Later solder and heat shrink, and maybe an OEM solenoid as I suspect the doorman unit in place is causing an issue since it's not a OEM unit.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Mini update.










I tidied up the wires and got the solder flowing, hooked up OBD2 an cleared the codes. Proceeded to do a one wheel burn out coming out of limp mode... But got about 20km and CEL came back on.

So back to the scrap yard, back to the same car and retrieved a cam solenoid like I should of in the first place lol. Along with the visit I glanced and talked about pricing.

U pull, tranny 195, that quarter panel cut out? Around 100 after labour(they cut). Makes it too hard to not stock up on parts...

------------------------------

Going to clean the solenoid and put it in after work.

... Coming back from work cel went out so I haven't touched anything, car must be "oh you went through that trouble for me? , I'm going to work properly now"


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Parts haul. Got a black driver's side vent, and Guage cluster inserts. Also nabbed a window seal. Pro tip use a 18guage wire and floss it along the trim piece and up it comes.


Talked about rear quarter panel at the pic n save yard and starts at 70, they have a emaculet 2014 black Cruze with not even rust on the bottom pinch welds. Might have to say arf it and spend a day down there

As for the manual transmission they had three autos in 😅. Two 1.8L


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

abit more to add,

discovered the rad fan isn't working after giving a neighbor a boost resulted in a boil over. relays are clicking, so it's just multi meter time..... Update, everything checked out continuity wise with the multi meter, but there was no capacitance in the fan circuit. 


insurance is repairing the car, but i did a rigidity test on the rust spot below the damage and i now have two "speed holes" in my rocker... so i'll probably proceed with the quarter cut and explain to insurance how it will save on labor costs .


and I dreamt of a rear lift kit. make a custom k frame that mounts in spot of the rear axle cups with drop downs. Having those drop downs braced together, and, back to a spacer for the z link. Just don't know about the front... But the dream also had general A/T's tires on lol.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

If one dares to try getting a quarter cut go with like a 18" Sawzal blade that way you can do most the work in one cut.... My self? Took me a couple after work visits to the u pull to get this cut out of a 2014 LT eco. Sorry no pics yet of the donor as I was so excited to get the up on outta there...





















And my "speed holes" hope inside is good enough for the skin graft...

I got the word from insurance that they're fixing the damage... So hopefully I can offer the quarter cut to save on labour, and get the rust repaired in one go.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

and lastly i want to touch on the P0011 again. i got the oem solenoid from the wreckers and it's better, as the engine light goes out every now n then now. But the problem is still there. with me finding out the rad fan isn't working and the leaks/ failures I've had/ fixed leads me to believe my first conclusion was right but for different reasons. one that the engine has been baking and the check valve being deep inside has been the casualty, whether heated to the point of losing magnetism ( the ball is magnetized ), spring tension, heat stress fractured the plastic backer that keeps it all together, or stagnating oil once shutting off at a high temp causing stuff to carbon up?


I have had said check valve since forever. with insurance fixing the quarter panel, exhausting other possibilities to resolve a P0011 issue, and coming due for a oil change. i've decided to give it a try. the access plug is behind the alternator, so i'll most likly be taking the intake manifold off in one piece with the throttle body and filter box. followed by the alternator. I'm not to sure what i'm walking into as for how gumbed up the oil gally is, i'll be taking out the solenoids and trying to clean from there down to the valve


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

man i need to learn spanish better, youtube's auto translator can only do so much... 






about 5 other videos, and this engine is riddles with check valves. two on the vvt side orange and blue , three between the head and block, blue and two blacks and another two orange in the head.

good thing i verified that i had the wrong part, the dealer and i looked at the parts diagram and the catalog has the blue check valve marked down as the orange valve... parts desk time.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

.... Man








Old rad fan had it's day come and go, time for a working SKP replacement. Ended up removing the two rad hoses to wiggle it out. Got exactly a gallon out the rad, and exactly another gallon in. 










And my ledger since purchase... No that five was from the previous owner... Must of had the engine tranny out as there's firewall, fuel line, connector damage you name it, even put the bell housing bolts back in wrong order as one is tight but not seated.... Arf'n mechanics.

As listed,

Plugs, oil, tranny oil.
Timing belt, accessory belt.
Oil cooler, oil.
Oil, radiator fan.


And I going to assume, since this is the first oil change since the new oil cooler went in that the two to three aluminum shavings per filter pleat are to be expected, oil came out amber( 6800km) and no residual metal in the drain bucket. Also I was down a whole liter of oil too. No obvious symptoms but a whole liter.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

posting for self reference but a pretty good insight into what the 1.8 ecot tec is


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Mmmkay, dealer got the orange check valve in, so I'll be trying to change the valve cover and the check valve while getting pictures for a write up. While I'm in there I'll have the intake manifold and alternator removed, so will clean up the grounds and electrical connections, as well run my power cables through the shift cable grommet.

looking to run one 4awg positive and another 4awg ground through the grommet. I plan to add a 500w mono block amp and on camping occasions hook up a second battery and a 1000watt inverter, hence the dedicated ground.


I also want to start painting my brake components. The calipers have minor salt from late winter, but overall the zinc coating hasn't rusted. I still have new drums sitting around for the old car and they too will be painted white with varying degrees of black for taste.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Here we are the two check valves this engine has. Orange in the side of engine for vvt cam sprockets, and blue between the head and block for cam shafts.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Getting to it. Pulled the throttle body along with the breather assembly, unbolted the alternator and here we are, access. furthermore i'll have to remove the intake simply for more clearance. 









All the way in there. i seen a video of a guy simply pulling it out with a #8 screw, but south America is a lot different than the rust belt of Canada.



also yeah my PCV is syphoning oil I pulled the PCV hose and had oil leaking out of it just transferring it on to the work bench.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Got to it. 3/8" ready rod filed to a tapered end. A bit of carbon deposits on the valve when removed. Full write up in the powertrain subthread.>>> 1.8L and 1.6L P0011 and P0016, Oil check valve...









Turned the engine over to rid it of debris... sploosh










New one in spot.

Runs like a champ now, idles like a champ too. Actually has some power now.


Wrenching notes, the metal nipple for the brake booster was previously broken, and JB welded back in, unfortunately the repair isn't holding. Next the linkage pivot for the intake actuator valve is worn to a point. I have a aftermarket linkage kit with brass pivots, but may see about using tied rod ends from a hobby shop and custom fabbing something.
Lastly the fuel line is kinked, I'm not sure how bad it's affecting pressure or volume but it's cringy. and lastly the crimp ring for the passenger side cv boot is gone... yeah felt that before I seen it. in the second picture you can see the snicker strip of axle grease on the right side of the steering rack motor proceeding up the fire wall. opposite most the grease got deposited on the the intake manifold, followed by the starter, and wire loom.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

😑 100km in CEL. Code reader sais! P0011

Rrrhhhmmmrrrhhhrrr.... Rrrrr.

300 km more an no codes. No starting cam slap.  



After giving some thought into the broken brake booster nipple, I've had an intermittent high idle for a while now, and remembering back to when I changed the plugs, plug one was a little different in color to the rest. this nipple is located on the cylinder one intake. since I had the intake off oil came leaking out and contaminating the fractured area so I was thinking some rtv sealer but now impact grease may fit the bill. this stuff is slimy tacky and thick, with my first car there were integral vacuum pot activated butterflies in the intake manifold and the bushing worn enough to let air by. end result I packed the impact grease into the surrounding area of the pivot and it was enough to stop the leak.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

up coming services.

I want to take off the rear hub and give the magnetic encoder ring a wipe down, the hub has been getting hot and I assuming the seal popped and leaked out some grease causing the ABS light to trip.

Number two, I recently discovered my engine has been a little heavy on the oil and a fluctuating 900rpm at idle... after my last servicing, having the PCV hose and intake manifold leak oil on the work bench. I'm going to change the valve cover, pull plugs for for their 20k km/ 13k mile inspection, and dump some Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinder hole... I seem to be having piston slap while warming up😔



I'll leave out the intake cam gear for now in favor of trying to fix the high idle by swapping the valve cover only as the main valve cover seal isn't leaking right now, and save that main seal for when I got to pull the solenoid cam cap to assure the passages are clear.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

last oil change I added in some MMO into the oil to get me ready for this.









Upon first sight, at the used car dealer lot, this valve cover didn't inspire me to believe the engine was well kept...



















That rust spoton the lobe isn't distinguishable by feel.









Dark dark dark. I was planning for a simple cover swap but I can't let this be, adding in the mmo seems to help loosen the carbon a tone.










And P0011 intensifies, lol. Looking at the sealer it's compairably cringy to the feeling of steeping in dog poo with you bare feet. Since there is minimal need for sealer any where on this engine I think it would of been best to of spread it film thin, clean out over lap, an allow for some cure time then slap it on. I'm not sure.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Didn't take long to strip all the carbon and oxide off the top faces with a bare razor blade. Round two will have it ready for the valve cover seal. In the mean time as I removed the plugs I poured in some marvel mystery oil for an approximate 1/8" of fluid height per cylinder. I will follow up by turning the crank to work it in/ make sure it won't hydro lock on me.









Spark plugs 19,000km in service. From left to right starting with #4. All 4 plugs even in color this time. Will consider moving to 19ft/lbs for tightening torque as two had come lose during their 19k service.

-------------


Working in the MMO. After a couple crank cycles and 15 min wait cylinder 1 and 4 seem to leaked out, 2/3 still having residual amount on the dip tester. Topped up with more and will see.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

All clean, all on, all together. Replaced the valve cover with a new skp unit... And like I've read around the forums the non OE covers required some modifications to the hard wire boxes mostly to facilitate them to slide on better, and the coil pack cover end up being a bit off so I ended up highlighting the inner seam in silver sharpie for extra bling. In the meantime I'm giving it a rest before I attempt turning the engine over. I did give a check on the piston heads before assembly and about four free reving cranks from the starter and they were only wet so may not even be a problem.











And oh me oh my what do we have here? I seem to have a reservoir for a self lubricating chassis system, ultra rare on these models.  the little pool of transmission oil has been there for at least 15000km slowly and surly enveloping the whole transmission


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

start up wasn't a problem, about 5 seconds in and the smoke started coming out thick and returning to normal. Put on a 500km road trip and nothing but awesome the car feels drivable. the idle is spot on around 780rpm now. Never knew the PCV was hurting low end idle so much. now I can preform a right hand turn and come out of it in third without much problem throttling up from a idle rpm. Where as before I was having drivability issues below 2000k rpm in any gear. 

Next is the intake cam gear for the P0011. on startup there's the odd slap and I can delete the CEL and it will stay off until I ease into WOT. And after that all attention on the tranny. What I thought was piston slap may actually be the DMF as I hear it while coasting under power a schrung schrung schrung, surging gear mesh noise. If that's the case I may torture myself with a SMF. probably another fatality of not having a rad fan cooking any and all rubber in the engine bay.


Cars good


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Threw some primer on the drums. going to finish in engine enamel white. I was going to see about adding some black to the drum to tame the vast white face but the rim seems to do the trick.









Etching primer has this pearl look to it... Just a pearl over spray and your set.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Finished painting inside and out, looks sharp. I'm not certain on if I should add a clear coat on the outside for protection. When I painted the caliper hangers on my previous car the coating held up alright, but that's front vs rear.











------------------------------











Hmmm two national delivery trucks on the side of the road... Did one break down?

"Hey Sir!" Oh hell no... This car is jynxed. This is the second time I've been backed into. this time a posty truck, but only seems to be a flesh wound this time.










I'm going to dream hard about how to turn this gaping hole in to a badge of character... The company maneger, I assume, told me they'd take care of it personally. Having just got into the area of pic n pull I could salvage me a bumper cover for as cheap as $50, but be out 3-6hrs of time, and travel.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

winter is coming up and I'm looking at a set of winter wheels... the winter tires that came with my car at purchase were some brand spanking new Pirelli's but oddly sized at a 215-50R16 (stock is 215-60R16) at least a couple inches short, and the tread being tight knit tailored to wet asphalt/ ice. something I do come across on my driving surfaces, but I'm a rural back road blazer so I'm looking out for some aggressive treads. that and seeing about going down a rim size to 15. Fiddling with a tire calculator I found a compromise at 205-70R15. It specs out the same as a 215-60R16 with the exception of being a half inch taller on paper.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

a confirmed problem my DMF is broken... the weather has been cool this past week getting down to 2C/ 35F. I'm not sure if it's solely the temp but cold starts the flywheel will just vibrate until you tension up the clutch or drive around until the engine is up to temp. 


the CEL keeps intermittently showing, P0011 every time.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Pulled all 3 wheels, cleaned them up, topped them off at 35psi, and rotated them. Torqued all 4 wheels at 95ft/lb. Pushed the pistons in on both front calipers to see that the units are still free and circulate the stagnant brake fluid back to the reservoir.

Probably going to get rubber conditioner or tire shine soon. Parking on the street during the day has dry rotted the side wall of the rubber, not anything bad just enough to be noticable.












So I got "mother's back to black" tire cleaner. And yeah about the third scrub everything was finally clean, but the side walls lacked any real shine... So back to the store and picked up "Mother's back to black" tire shine. Man the rubber is as glossy as the rims now. 


@Blasirl 
Been saving up for a 7" multi buffer. But am more focused on the internals like the engine and suspension, so I'll eventually pay for it by collecting enough points at the gas station  .


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Parts hual...

Went to two different scrap yards today. The first yard I ended up getting a rear trunk latch, and a hand full of body panel clips. The second yard had what I was looking for, front passenger side door hinges, IN WHITE, and as a bonus I came across a debadged weather tech floor mat for the driver's floor... Beer scent included, guess buddy wreck while sipping as there was a beer bottle just chilling on the floor.


white door hinges on a black car... Why? for myself. I'm wanting the color scheme to be two tone but not over done. Like the door handle I did on the last car, from the top edge wrapped around in side white to the bottom edge. Wouldn't notice unless you are 4-5' from the car and looking. Any further away and out of vantage. These hinges should be good, relatively new(2014 model) and being as the front door hinges are interchangeable getting them from the passenger side guarantees they haven't been as abused.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Wrrrck wrrrck wrrrck wrrrck wrrrck wrck wrck Wu k k k k. A 3/8 self tapper. In hind sight I would of just cut the head off with a coping saw as it was holding pressure. None the less I touched it...


About 20km out from 170,000km. oil change is just before the due range... Been aiming for 5000km/3110mi change intervals, but end up cutting it at about 7000km/4350mi. This time around I have all that MMO oil mixed in from when I soaked the pistons and what ever came out of the rings too.

Next is body stripping, November the 7th the car goes into the body shop ideally I'd like to have most of what I imagine they be working around removed, ie, fender, rear bumper, door seals, internal furnishings. Just so things don't get brokener. 

While I'm in there change over the door hinges too. And patch the front bumper, not sure on paint work but I have 1/4" thick white PVC cuttings that I can shape up to look like something protruding from the bumper. And to the hood using the same PVC and making tiara ets where I have the white tape.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Fender off, looks clean otherwise. And yes running with it, and yes used a paper bag to aim the headlight. 









Then there's this cancer. The fender bolt got about half way out and snapped the head. As for the rust hole a surprising amount of that sediment from running gravel roads was in there.


Oil change at 5200km... And another at 12km.










Yeah, that's 9 liters of oil, my ratchet, and the drain plug still in the bucket. Put the drain plug and poured in the remaining half liter from the fresh bottle, and syphoned off four liters from the oil bucket.

Awh boy oh boy.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Finished the hinge swap. I'm not going to be putting the muck keeper attachment back in the fender, so figured white on black to clean it up. Sanded and took care of rust. And best of all? My door closes like new.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Okay car's off to the body shop. A week maybe a week an a day.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

No car yet,

Been looking at flywheels, and clutches. I'm not really wanting anymore bite, but the DMF on start up is showing signs that it's long gone. I'm seeing a LUK light weight single mass flywheel for pennys, but am eying up a aluminum flywheel from clutch masters as I'd need a dampened clutch disc instead of the stock solid ( they say sprung but pictures illustrate something that isn't)

Next the exhaust, should be a simple fix swapping out the "resonator" section, and see about new hangers for the rear muffler as the one hanger looks like somebody put in a ear plug one size too big.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

not much to report.

got the car back on the 15th, looks shiny and new they painted and buffed the side of the car. ended up having to wait for the wheel so in the mean time I've been rocking bald rear tires in the snow. car holds pretty good considering. and the abs is still out so the car trying to kill me wont be an issue this time. since one can do everything he needs with a manual and throttle, having the abs cut the throttle while pitching the car for a turn is sort of dangerous. 

and the week away the exhuast has gotten so much worse, and exacerbated by the intake manifold linkage giving up the ghost, so the average of 7.1l per 100km shot up to around 9l per 100k.

fun times


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Week of ownership since repair. The rear door has rubbed through the paint work, the holes for the lower door seal had pop rivets popped in... And the body line between the door and fender is still pushed in.

Man what smuckery. I literally gave the body shop a whole fender to make it right. I had no money to offer at the time, other than parts, to grease the wheels so hats off to insurance...









A little inspection, cleaning, taping and waxing.


Almost have a print made for front fender clips. Wanting to fab up a set so I have mounting points when I re assemble. The challenging part is between the bumper and fender. The wheel liner mounts should be easier.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

(image taken from kijiji add of local u pull lot)
donor car, 2014, 1.8l 6mt, 161xxxkm. front quarter impact, drivers side, everything outside the frame sheered. control arm broke around the front sub frame bushing due to pre-exsisting corrosion, hopeful imagination, the action of the rear control arm bushing pivoted the suspension assembly out, pulling the drive shaft out. and fyi they have the cars on rims so having the wheel well deleted was and appreciated bonus. i would of got better pictures but didn't want my phone broke, as I was "army of one'ing it." I showed up at 10:15am and with the help of fellow salvagers moving the crane I was at the gate by 4:10pm with transmission in tow. 











Got a 2014 LS transmission, approximately 161xxxkm. Showed up at the u pull lot and began work on a relatively untouched 1.8L somebody cut the cats and pulled the a/c compressor. At 161k km I don't think this one even had a clutch job done yet as all hardware was factory corroded. All in all it took me 6hrs to disconnect the connectors and wire harness, pull the motor with only one frame mount bolt left in the tranny to allow enough angle for the engine to disconnect, and then yank the tranny via a seatbelt strap.











shot the **** with a couple guys, helping one remove the shift cables for his Pontiac gto, another told me I was crazy, indeed I may be... later on i'll start diss assembling the tranny, diff first.

And one of the few times I've actually had to face motion sickness. see I left the tranny right at the back up against the trunk, instead of the suspension doing its thing the chassis of the car was flexing.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Had some hobby time to rip into the transmission. All the bearings are pitted, and I theorize that it's mostly due to suspended metal fragments. This tranny has good oil scavenging ports feeding the bearings anything that's in the oil. And looking at the gears there's various States of flaking from ware.










This is how far I've gotten into disassembly Diff bearings below look good, compared to the internal end case bearings after.




















Right now hobby time is going to be cleaning the part's I've taken off and sourcing bearings from rock auto, they have them all, but am unsure of a couple sizes.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

So an update on the bearings. Rock auto has everyone sept for the main output bearing, so inadvertently being unable to locate the bearings in north America. I will have to source the last two bearings from the U.K. So knowing this it would be less hassle to buy the whole kit in one go.

*Update to the update.*
Rock auto only has the outer end case bearings, everything else is for the auto. So no, don't go rock auto. I'll end up returning them and order the full kit from ik like I should have....




Here's my take on fixing the flimsy bumper cover to wheel liner mounts. I will be changing the hardware out to red anodized screw.










I also got to putting on new wipers, and while I was at it adjusted the wiper arms for proper form. What a pleasure it is to have clear veiw.










And last more excuses to take off the front bumper, a 22" light bar to be mounted in grill, on top the bumper beam.











100km away from 5000km OCI, and want to take another look at my P0011 issue, this time removing the bridge cam cap and inspecting for any signs of clogging as the previous fixer applied too much sealer and am have day dreams about a pea size piece blocking just enough oil flow to the cam actuator.

on the other side the battery that came with the car is about done, so have another thing on the list to do. I have the battery from the previous car a 4/2021 interstate MTX h7 AGM battery... 80Ahs 1100 c.c.amps . will have to clean the grounds and re wire some things when I do the switch over. previously I had a 4wg run from the alternator to battery, a 4awg ground strap from head to chassis, and a 4awg wire ran back to the amp. this time around I not only have an amp but an inverter, and a desire to run a secondary, or, remote battery. so I envision running two 4awg positive wires with a 4awg ground strap to the back. FYI the shift cable grommet is the perfect location to run said wires through the fire wall

some time around then I have an exhaust issue to take care of. I have a resonator section in coming so hopefully that is all that is wrong with it.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Mmmyeah... Mmmkay. The previous owner had the flange welded. The exhaust flange between cat #2 and the resonator. I ordered a walker resonator and a new seal but will need the flange cleaned up. I need exhaust hangers and to remount the rear muffler heat sheild as it's popped off it's bolt downs.


Oil change went without a flaw, clocking in at 175,700KM. Valve cover is leaking again at the exhaust side corner seam, so perfect excuses to take off the valve cover. Between the P0011 and the exhaust leak anything below 2000rpm gets a bit jerky and luggy.


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

That's sopposed to be one bead... Looks like the new exhaust section is going back.


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## infintesoul (6 d ago)

Things I need to do for a safety are replace the front brake components and swap the rear coils springs for new.


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## infintesoul (6 d ago)

Oil change went without a flaw, clocking in at 175,700KM. Valve cover is leaking again at the exhaust side corner seam, so perfect excuses to take off the valve cover. Between the P0011 and the exhaust leak anything below 2000rpm gets a bit jerky and luggy.


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