# Timing belt change



## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

The newer diesel may be different. Nobody on here has actually changed a timing belt yet. We have one member named diesel who has like 147k miles on his and he's going to change his around 150k miles


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## dave32gtr (Nov 29, 2015)

It's a 2010 model. Didn't realise there was a newer version. Better check I bought the right belt!
Scheduled change here in Australia is 90000kms (56000miles?)


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Sorry, I'm using the app, it doesn't let me see locations. Most of the people on here are in north America.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Didn't know the diesel was using a timing belt, belt, tensioner, and pulley come to over 200 bucks. Price of diesel fuel around here is 40% greater, kind of two negatives plus DEF not to switch to diesel.

Yet the most desirable fuel for commercial use. Is this yet another case of screwing the little guy?


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, when I first purchased a Honda, walked into their shop before work started, introduced myself and handed them a box with two dozen sweet rolls inside.

They let me borrow all the special tools I needed, not considered competition, because very few people are working on their own vehicles today. 

Ha, when I first cracked open the manual for a TH-400 automatic transmission complete overhaul saw a list of special purpose tools a mile long. Met a guy my age that was overhauling these for years. You don't need all that crap, a large C-clamp and a couple of brass plates is all you need. Worked for me. But don't know until you start.

Auto Zone and others may have the tools you need, ha, doesn't hurt to ask, the the answer may kill you.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Diesel fuel costs 40% more than RUG in WI? Really? It's only a 16% difference here.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

It's $0.05/L more here


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## kmacleod (Oct 15, 2010)

$1.53 for regular here, $2.49 for diesel.

Ken


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

kmacleod said:


> $1.53 for regular here, $2.49 for diesel.
> 
> Ken


Wow! RUG is $2.15 and diesel is $2.49


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

NickD said:


> Didn't know the diesel was using a timing belt, belt, tensioner, and pulley come to over 200 bucks. Price of diesel fuel around here is 40% greater, kind of two negatives plus DEF not to switch to diesel.
> 
> Yet the most desirable fuel for commercial use. Is this yet another case of screwing the little guy?


Big deal. Almost every overhead cam engine uses a belt these days and the common interval change is 100K miles. Labor is most of the cost of a timing belt change. There are dozens of reasons diesels are used for commercial purposes. Mainly because of the torque needed for hauling heavy loads, longer engine life and diesel is a more efficient fuel over gasoline. As for the cost, it just must be in your area. I pay $2.19 a gallon. DEF fluid is required in nearly every newer diesel vehicle, including light duty pickup trucks and commercial vehicles. So I'm not sure who is getting screwed.


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## 2014Oilburner (Feb 1, 2015)

Diesel is 2.07 here in Delaware...gasoline is 2.09


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I am finally getting my timing belt changed but not going to touch it myself since I've never done a timing belt replacement and afraid I might screw something up.


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

2014Oilburner said:


> Diesel is 2.07 here in Delaware...gasoline is 2.09


Where at? I'm in Delaware too. Cheapest I've seen it is $2.19.


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## CruzeDan (May 17, 2015)

I'd rather have a GM motor with a timing belt than a GM motor with a chain at this point. (Looking at you 3.6). Diesel is 2.00 in NJ, Gas is like 1.87. Diesel is still cheaper than the Premium my 22 MPG Subaru H6 used.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Belts are just so annoying. Never had to change a chain on any of my gm's and that was awesome.


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

money_man said:


> Belts are just so annoying. Never had to change a chain on any of my gm's and that was awesome.


To have a belt on a diesel is just silly. However, it is what it is. My old Chevy Cavalier has a chain and still quiet after 278,000 miles. GM screwed the pooch on this one.


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## PanJet (Jun 18, 2013)

DECruzer said:


> To have a belt on a diesel is just silly. However, it is what it is. My old Chevy Cavalier has a chain and still quiet after 278,000 miles. GM screwed the pooch on this one.


VW has used belts on their diesels for years and continue to do so even with their new engine.

When the Gen 2 CTD hits the market, it will actually be one of the first small diesels in the U.S. to have a chain instead of a belt.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

TruckTrend is not too pleased with the timing belt used in the Cruze diesel either.

First Drive - 2014 Chevy Cruze Clean Turbodiesel - Diesel Power Magazine

Trying to find out if this is an interference engine or not, with an interference engine, if the belt breaks or slips, the pistons will crash into the valves and in some cases, even crack the heads. Never was a good idea.

One thing about a chain, it constantly receives clean engine oil, belt depends upon one or two very limited lubricated ball bearings where the grease dries up. My major reasons for a broken belt was not the belt itself, but these two pulleys would seize up. Also a dust shield that really does not shield from road debris, see a mess when you remove the belt cover.

One thing with even new tensioners and idler pulleys I pop off the bearing seals, should be stamped with the company of origin. Will only accept Made in the USA, Canada, or Japan, China is really crap.

There are three types of ball retainers, riveted is the best, spot welded steel is second best, plastic is pure crap. Whatever idiots started using plastic should be shot have a long torture period, sure causing us a lot of grief. Another bad joke is using a plastic idler pulley, will dump these in a hurry even if I have to make my own pulley out of steel on my machine lathe. Plastic gets very brittle with age and heat, this would break a belt in a hurry, I trust Gates Made in the USA for a timing belt.

Use to say, only use OE, but the way things are today, don't know where in the hail they are made. Over years of experience if satisfied with the bearing, clean it out and only use Wolf's High Temperature Wheel Bearing grease. This stuff last for years and never gets hard. With even some "good" bearings find some white crap inside.

The timing belt is only the beginning of problems, they added also the single drive belt driving components also with limited lubricated bearings. For me, this is even more work, if that one belt breaks in some deserted area out of cell phone range in subzero weather, this can be the end of your life! Compounded by all that aluminum and plastic in these things with very low melting points. If that water pump quits turning, you really have major problems.

In the long history of automotive, these were never problems before, but sure are now. What's their solution? OnStar, and not a very good one at that, doesn't work at law on tree lined roads we deal with. 

Not too concerned on these issues with my 88 Supra or 82 454 CID motorhome, both have three belts. I really got teed off at GM with their air compressor idler pulleys, were using a retainer ring to hold in that bearing ring, but then started peening it in to save a half a cent. When cast iron ages, gets rock hard and can't even peen in a new bearing, it chips off! So had to drill four holes and used countersunk flat head screw to hold it in. Then the a$$holes used an interference fit for the clutch plate, another really stupid idea, where others were using shims for the proper spacing. That compressor shaft really has to be rusty so that interference fit would hold. Maintaining the proper gap was another newly created problem.

Like I am saying what never use to be problems before are sure problems now. Planning soon on checking all those limited lubricated bearing on the Cruze, more problems that were never problems before. Money will never replace my family.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

CruzeDan said:


> I'd rather have a GM motor with a timing belt than a GM motor with a chain at this point. (Looking at you 3.6). Diesel is 2.00 in NJ, Gas is like 1.87. Diesel is still cheaper than the Premium my 22 MPG Subaru H6 used.


LOL I think the 3100/3400 guys changed chains but they were things you should do on a full rebuild anyways. 1.4 chains seem to be holding up.

For my other car, the belt job usually includes pulleys, tentioner, and water pump.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

PanJet said:


> VW has used belts on their diesels for years and continue to do so even with their new engine.
> 
> When the Gen 2 CTD hits the market, it will actually be one of the first small diesels in the U.S. to have a chain instead of a belt.


Timing belt job locally is $800-$1000 on a tdi. If it snaps, which does happen, $3000-$3500. 

I'll take the chain any day.


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## roadrunnerA12 (Jan 21, 2015)

Is the engine in question an interference engine?


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Most things I've read have said yes.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

To achieve the very high mechanical compression the pistons darn near have to contact the head.
Diesels will have pockets in the piston crown for valve clearance and a bowl is machined into the crown between the pockets.....that bowl is the actual combustion chamber.

Any diesel will strike its valves if the cam timing is off and, of course, if a timing belt breaks the cam timing is now off........piston assisted valve closure is the result......likely other destruction.

So, any diesel is a interference design.

Rob


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

View attachment 171369

Tight!


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

Timing chains are not all that if not manufactured correctly. Head over to the Acadia forum and read all about the timing chain issues that the 3.6 has had in it's early days from 2007 to 2010.

The timing belt on my 91 Jetta TD was a breeze to change. Plenty of room to work. To bad they can't make vehicles that easy to work on anymore.


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## vwgtiglx (Jun 13, 2013)

DECruzer said:


> View attachment 171369
> 
> Tight!


Attachment - no workie!


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## Jeep1943 (Mar 18, 2016)

Two days ago the serpentine belt (fan belt?) started to shred which allowed a portion to find its way in under the timing belt cover.
This allowed the timing belt to slip and I can confirm beyond a doubt that it is an interference engine.
Fortunately (I say with jest) I was able to find a low km replacement for under the cost of a head rebuild.
My Cruze is a 2010 2ltr Turbo Diesel which has done 91000 kms and had only had the timing belt replaced 4 weeks ago. In OZ to repair the head starts at $2K AUD, then add the costs of pistons, gasket kit etc plus labour.

Waynne

Excuse the differences in spelling and terminology.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Jeep1943 said:


> Two days ago the serpentine belt (fan belt?) started to shred which allowed a portion to find its way in under the timing belt cover.
> This allowed the timing belt to slip and I can confirm beyond a doubt that it is an interference engine.
> Fortunately (I say with jest) I was able to find a low km replacement for under the cost of a head rebuild.
> My Cruze is a 2010 2ltr Turbo Diesel which has done 91000 kms and had only had the timing belt replaced 4 weeks ago. In OZ to repair the head starts at $2K AUD, then add the costs of pistons, gasket kit etc plus labour.
> ...


Good morning from Indiana in the states. If I read your post correctly you had the timing belt replaced then the serpentine belt shredded and took out the new timing belt. Did your mechanic inspect the serpentine belt when timing belt was replaced? Sounds like it would be a good idea to replace the serpentine belt along with the timing belt during that major service. Sorry for the problems you had but thanks for the post.


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## Jeep1943 (Mar 18, 2016)

The serpentine belt was in very good condition. Put it down to just 'one of those things'. However, I would replace both at the same time now.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Jeep1943 said:


> The serpentine belt was in very good condition. Put it down to just 'one of those things'. However, I would replace both at the same time now.


If you haven't changed your engine yet, investigate getting a series II engine. They have duel cams that are chain driven, the fan belt can't get at them because the chain is internal and there for the life of the engine.

View attachment 185721
This is my series II engine, 120 kw and 360 nm torque.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Jeep1943 said:


> The serpentine belt was in very good condition. Put it down to just 'one of those things'. However, I would replace both at the same time now.


I had both of mine done at the same time and glad I did. I wonder if there's any liability on the part of the shop that replaced it for you. Could there be some shoddy work? Don't you have to take the serp belt off to do the timing belt?


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

diesel said:


> I had both of mine done at the same time and glad I did. I wonder if there's any liability on the part of the shop that replaced it for you. Could there be some shoddy work? Don't you have to take the serp belt off to do the timing belt?


The older diesel is a single cam unit with 16 valves.


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## Jeep1943 (Mar 18, 2016)

There was no sign of shoddy work. I looked at another Cruze at work and the serpentine belt is showing the same sort of wear/ damage.

The dead engine- valves completely trashed, possible cracked pistons and damaged B/E bearings.
The turbine of the turbo is full of oil; amazingly the engine still ran.....of sorts.


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## Jeep1943 (Mar 18, 2016)

The only engines available at the moment are all the same unit as the original.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Jeep1943 said:


> The only engines available at the moment are all the same unit as the original.


It was just an idea, most likely a lot of work as the exhaust and computer would also be different.


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## Jeep1943 (Mar 18, 2016)

A successful engine transplant was carried out. The new (only 70000km) engine is a lot quieter than the original.
Total cost was $2600 Aus, and was done by a local 'Commodore Spares' outlet.
Very happy with the work.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Jeep1943 said:


> A successful engine transplant was carried out. The new (only 70000km) engine is a lot quieter than the original.
> Total cost was $2600 Aus, and was done by a local 'Commodore Spares' outlet.
> Very happy with the work.


That is a really good price, I think you lucked out on that deal.


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## Jeep1943 (Mar 18, 2016)

fingers crossed. The other quotes I received ranged up to $3500. To repair the original engine was almost the cost of a new small car.


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## moereloos (Mar 8, 2011)

dave32gtr said:


> Hi all,
> Looking at doing the timing belt on my wifes 2.0l Diesel cruze over the Christmas break and have a couple of questions..
> I have the belt,tensioner already. What else should I be changing at the same time? (water pump etc?)
> Looking at this guide How to Replace timing belt on Chevrolet Cruze 2.0 CDI 2009- It lists 5 special tools needed for the job. Are they all really needed?
> ...


Yes the pin for the crank and the plate is required for the Cam.

I am in the process of replacing mine. I bought the replacement kit which consists of the water pump+ gasket, the Tensioner and idler pulleys and belt.https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...mhPjOfIUn2sKtWUxj2-wfQ&bvm=bv.121421273,d.ZGg

The issue I have is that the backing plate requires to be removed from the crankcase to get access to the water pump.

This catches on the Diesel injector pump on the lower side.

I tried to remove the Pulley of the Injector pump but that seems no possible. Even if te pump is removed it cannof fit through the hole.

Any ideas anyone ?

Well she has done 160,000 miles and now replacing belt-----


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## swedgemon (Jan 16, 2017)

A few years back I was advised to put an arrow on a serpentine belt before I removed it to insure it was going in the same direction when I put it back on...valid ??...invalid ?? I have seen the damage one of these belts will do on a GMC SUV...not pretty.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

swedgemon said:


> A few years back I was advised to put an arrow on a serpentine belt before I removed it to insure it was going in the same direction when I put it back on...valid ??...invalid ?? I have seen the damage one of these belts will do on a GMC SUV...not pretty.


Probably not a bad idea, but maybe not necessary.


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