# Hello fellow Cruze owners. How cheap is it to change your own oil?



## chetan114 (Aug 23, 2020)

I have a 2014 LT and typically will pay $65 at a drive through oil change, but I'm balling on a budget and need to save money. This would be a helpful skill to learn in the long run and I'm wondering what everyone thinks... worth it? Looks like I can get 5 quarts of oil for $30 at an automotive store.
Edit: While y'all are here, I have been experiencing rough idling and trouble starting the engine the first time after gassing up. Check engine light is on. Codes were P0171 I think and maybe P0403, but I'm not exactly sure. A couple months back it was accelerating poorly and I had to get my coil pack replaced. Some people say purge valve for this problem.

192.168.o.1
192.168.0.1
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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Walmart sells 5 quarts for $20 plus oil filter price.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

A gallon of rotella T6 synthetic is 30$ at Walmart, filter maybe 5-8$. What’s a big perk of DIY is that you know it’s done right.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

chetan114 said:


> Looks like I can get 5 quarts of oil for $30 at an automotive store.


For that price, I can get the oil _and filter_ at Walmart. You can buy lunch with the savings after you're done 

Tip: Use a 6-pt socket on the drain plug - you're less likely to round the shoulders.

Doug

.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Walmart SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic Dexos1 is ~$14 for a 5qt jug.
Your choice of Fram, Mobil1, K&N, and ACDelco filters are all under $10. 
Makes a quality oil change that's meets the newest GM specs for under $25.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

pandrad61 said:


> A gallon of rotella T6 synthetic is 30$ at Walmart, filter maybe 5-8$. What’s a big perk of DIY is that you know it’s done right.


I wouldn't exactly call running Rotella T6 in a 1.4L Turbo, "done right." There are a LOT of reasons not to run that oil in these engines.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Cheap oil is recycled oil.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I wouldn't exactly call running Rotella T6 in a 1.4L Turbo, "done right." There are a LOT of reasons not to run that oil in these engines.


Well it meets the Gm minimum standards and is a multi vehicle formula. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Ro...ynthetic-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-Gallon/515810764


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> Well it meets the Gm minimum standards and is a multi vehicle formula. I also have quite a few vehicles that I maintain that use it so it’s easier to have the same oil.
> 
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Ro...ynthetic-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-Gallon/515810764


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

It's not dexos certified


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

pandrad61 said:


> Well it meets the Gm minimum standards and is a multi vehicle formula. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Ro...ynthetic-Diesel-Engine-Oil-1-Gallon/515810764


It doens't meet the Dexos1 specifications required for this vehicle, and it falls short on performance metrics. There many technical reasons to avoid it. I'll copy an article I wrote a while back here so you can review:


A word to those running Rotella T6 and other HDEOs in gasoline engines because some loudmouth on BITOG or some forum told you to. Don't. I used to tell this to people all the time; that HDEOs don't belong in gasoline engines, but I've learned a lot more lately as to specifically why that is the case.
Reason 1: Primary ZDDP. What most people just call Zinc, ZDDP is an additive package in oil that is known for anti-wear properties. I'll spare you the science behind ZDDP decomposition tiers and the nature of boundary lubrication, but what you have to realize is that there are 200+ formulations of ZDDP and they are not all equal. They come in two main categories: primary and secondary. Primary ZDDP is used mostly as an antioxidant to fight oxidative thickening in engine oils in high-heat applications, of which there are plenty in diesel engines, and is also geared more for lower friction coefficient. By contrast, gasoline engines either use mostly secondary ZDDP with some primary, or exclusively secondary (which is the case of higher quality oils), and is geared more for tribofilm formulation. Basically, your 1200ppm of Zinc in Rotella T6 is not actually protecting better than 800ppm of Zinc API SN spec synthetic oil and certainly not better than a high secondary ZDDP formulated gasoline engine oil.
Reason 2: Anti-foaming. Also referred to as air release, the oil has to release air pockets generated during friction and movement. Rotella is not very good at this, and that's OK when you are running a Detroit Diesel with a 2100RPM redline or even a 6.7 Powestroke with a 3400RPM redline (where the anti-foaming starts to become a bigger issue), not so much when you're running a Subaru FA20 with a 7400RPM redline. Under extended use, this can eventually aerate the fluid enough to cause catastrophic failure, or at minimum power loss.
Reason 3: Detergents/Dispersants. Diesel engines typically deal more with soot handling and dispersion, so the additive package is designed accordingly. On the other hand, gasoline engine detergent packs are designed more to handle acidity. This discrepancy can also result in reduced performance in gasoline engines as the detergent tries to clean the cylinder walls, which compromises the seal between rings and cylinder walls and reduces compression and efficiency.
Reason 4: The other day someone challenged me to post oil analysis reports of Rotella T6 shearing (thinning) in viscosity. I did a google image search for Rotella T6 (virgin viscosity of 14.9 cSt) and struggled to find a single oil analysis that was actually in-spect! In fact, I'd say 9/10 oil analysis reports showed that it had sheared in viscosity. If you're looking for a high quality base oil with additives that don't shear in viscosity, this isn't your best option.
Now I'm sure I'll get the classic "I've been using this oil and nothing has blown up yet" rhetoric by people who are too cheap to consider better options like AMSOIL, Driven Racing, Motul, and Schaeffer, but that doesn't mean that the product doesn't have its deficiencies simply because you want it to work. I realize people have a higher tendency to believe information that they agree with regarding a cheaper product than a more expensive one, but unless you already knew everything I presented in this post, you ought to reconsider your lubricant choice in gasoline engines (especially high-revving and turbo gasoline engines). There are far better options on the market that will protect better and make more power.
Feel free to share wherever appropriate.
Resources:
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s11249-016-0706-7
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1023/B:TRIL.0000044495.26882.b5
https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/BOK/LS/Additives/The%20Chemistry%20and%20Function%20of%20Lubricant%20Additives.pdf
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/31107/oil-lubricant-additives
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-
https://www.stle.org/images/pdf/STLE_ORG/Newsletter/2019/TL/FilmThicknessAndFrictionOfZDDP.pdf


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

chetan114 said:


> I have a 2014 LT and typically will pay $65 at a drive through oil change, but I'm balling on a budget and need to save money. This would be a helpful skill to learn in the long run and I'm wondering what everyone thinks... worth it? Looks like I can get 5 quarts of oil for $30 at an automotive store.
> Edit: While y'all are here, I have been experiencing rough idling and trouble starting the engine the first time after gassing up. Check engine light is on. Codes were P0171 I think and maybe P0403, but I'm not exactly sure. A couple months back it was accelerating poorly and I had to get my coil pack replaced. Some people say purge valve for this problem.


Don't buy oil at a auto parts store, it's sometime 50-75% more expensive than a big box store. Even if you don't buy oil from them, you can still refill the 5qt jug with used oil and take it back to Auto Zone or wherever to recycle for free.

You should be able to get oil + filter for around $30. Make sure it's the correct viscosity and meets Dexos spec (green icon on label). Also don't buy the cheapest fram oil filter you can get. Get the mid tier or premium. Better yet, just grab an ACDelco filter if they carry them.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

snowwy66 said:


> Cheap oil is recycled oil.


Source? Also, even if so, is that a problem?


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Thebigzeus said:


> Source? Also, even if so, is that a problem?


You're eyes are your source. 

It's a problem for me. I like Virgin oil. If you don't mind recycled. Knock yourself out. 

P.S. I wouldn't recommend going the duration.

Seems like I recall something about it in class, also.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

snowwy66 said:


> You're eyes are your source.
> 
> It's a problem for me. I like Virgin oil. If you don't mind recycled. Knock yourself out.
> 
> P.S. I wouldn't recommend going the duration.


Supertech looks the exact same as pennzoil.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Thebigzeus said:


> Supertech looks the exact same as pennzoil.


r u sure? And is it dex certified?


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

snowwy66 said:


> r u sure? And is it dex certified?


You can always check for yourself here: dexos®


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> You can always check for yourself here: dexos®
> 
> View attachment 288766


One nit on that. Motor oils can meet the certification spec, but not carry the cert. Sometimes the licensing fees are exorbitant, and the lube vendor skips the cost of paying extra to use the dexos logo (or some other cert logo) on their label, but still fully conforms to the dexos spec.

I'm not saying that's the case with the aforementioned Rotella, but I recall a case some years ago with another well known oil brand where they opted to forego a licensing fee, but clearly stated in the fine print they were fully in spec.

Doug

..


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

plano-doug said:


> One nit on that. Motor oils can meet the certification spec, but not carry the cert. Sometimes the licensing fees are exorbitant, and the lube vendor skips the cost of paying extra to use the dexos logo (or some other cert logo) on their label, but still fully conforms to the dexos spec.
> 
> I'm not saying that's the case with the aforementioned Rotella, but I recall a case some years ago with another well known oil brand where they opted to forego a licensing fee, but clearly stated in the fine print they were fully in spec.
> 
> ...


Yep, Amsoil isn't on the list...


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

I can get at oil change at Chevrolet for $44 after taxes. That's with Valvoline full synthetic and ACdelco filter plus tire rotation.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for.

I tried one of them $45 oil changes. For 2 days.


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

Avoid the confusion. I do by using my local Chevy dealer....$39.99 ...and they put in the correct oil and filter. Every 5000 miles.
For what it would cost me to buy the "correct" oil and filter....plus crawling around under the car.....the "savings" simply are not that much...if any.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

jimmyc said:


> Avoid the confusion. I do by using my local Chevy dealer....$39.99 ...and they put in the correct oil and filter. Every 5000 miles.


Sure they do. My oil change kids *NEVER* make mistakes


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

What mistakes? Chevy dealer. I would say these oil change places are more likely to mess up......


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

jimmyc said:


> What mistakes? Chevy dealer. I would say these oil change places are more likely to mess up......


Dealers give people a false sense of security, I have had to have them fix my oil pan leak twice, took a week both times. The second time they somehow couldn't get the sealant. Terrible experience. For oil changes they usually use the new innexperienced techs, simple enough job for them and they make peanuts per hour. Up to you if you want to trust your ride to them I guess.


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

I got 4 free oil changes when I bought the car new. After them over filling it every time I skipped the last one. They suck!


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

TheRealHip said:


> I got 4 free oil changes when I bought the car new. After them over filling it every time I skipped the last one. They suck!


From the dealer I assume?


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

Yep the dealer. Had to get under neath the car and drain a little out to get it to the right level.


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

Bad dealers: Good dealers. Sounds like you guys gotta come up here to Beautiful Downtown New Jersey to get a good oil change.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I buy filters from RockAuto and [email protected] for ACDelco the buy the oil at a local auto parts store or Walmart @$30 for Dexos oil


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

jimmyc said:


> What mistakes? Chevy dealer. I would say these oil change places are more likely to mess up......


Wrong oil, wrong quantity of oil, wrong filter. It's pretty common. Envision a mistake that can be made during an oil change....and it's been made. At a dealer, and at independent and chain shop


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

For $75 or so, I put in Amsoil Signature series with an Amsoil 15k filter and am coming up on 15k miles. I do not know what period your are changing your oil on, but I am saving a bundle. 

A code *P0171* may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. 
There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. 
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor 
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection 
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve 
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) 
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) 
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
Read more at: OBD-II DTC: P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)

The causes for a *P0403* EGR code could be any of the following: 

Bad EGR solenoid 
Excessive resistance in control circuit (PCM controlled ground) due to an open, chafing or damage to the harness Poor connection at the EGR solenoid harness (worn or loose pins) 
Water intrusion at the EGR solenoid harness 
Blockage in EGR control solenoid holding solenoid open or closed causing excessive resistance 
Loss of supply voltage to EGR solenoid 
Bad PCM
Read more at: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction


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## everett33 (Aug 1, 2018)

$11 Filter
$3 drain seal
$23 5 quarts of oil
Prices fluctuate, so I buy a few when they are cheap.






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## lion0013 (Mar 10, 2020)

I use Amsoil @ $13/qt and Amsoil filter @ $19, but that's just me. Nothing but the best for my ride.


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## 15cruzediesel (Sep 30, 2019)

Saving money is always a good thing however I prefer to do it myself so that I know it was done correctly and with quality filters and oil.

It also gives me a chance to inspect under the car for others issues.

For the most part between 20 and 30 dollars. Mostly depends on finding deals on filters.


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## Diamond193 (Jul 28, 2019)

lion0013 said:


> I use Amsoil @ $13/qt and Amsoil filter @ $19, but that's just me. Nothing but the best for my ride.


Im the same way.


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

$37.50 PLUS SH&H.? OK. plus your labor. 
My dealer does it for $39.95+tax.....plus tire rotation and "safety check" (however accurate that is).
You're happy...I'm happy.

But really....in my youth....what you did is exactly what I did. But now.......


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

You guys are overpaying for Amsoil, JC....


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Ma v e n said:


> You guys are overpaying for Amsoil, JC....


Yeah I really wanted to try it, but opted not to, just a bit too much. Sticking with Penzoil ultra plat.


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## pinkjuano (Jan 17, 2020)

My sister has a 2013 Cruze LT and I have a 2014 Cruze LT. We both had the issue of the car not starting correctly after filling it with gas. Some googling showed that we weren't the only ones and that replacing this part ( Amazon.com: ACDelco 55573017 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve: Automotive ) fixed the issue. There are some like $10 cheaper, but we fixed these over a year ago and the ACDelco's have not had any issues with starting the engine after pumping gas since we replaced them. 

I also had similar acceleration and coil pack issues, buuuut that was because I initially used unleaded gas when I bought my car which totally ruined the turbo and catalytic converter. Replacing the turbo and converter (and using strictly premium gas) fixed my issues, but I had different engine codes. I'm not sure if you're already using premium fuel, but I just wanted to throw out any information I have to see if it would help--ALWAYS use premium gas if you have the LT.


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

"....initially used unleaded gas....."? Where can one buy LEADED gas anymore.....well, maybe isolated places, but realistically. unleaded is all we got. That's what these cars are meant to run on. The pumps say "89 Octane with up to 10% Ethanol". (More than that, unless you have a "Flex Fuel" motor.....damage)

These 4 cyl turbos are mean to run on "regular" gas. Putting "Premium" in there is only throwing money away.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

jimmyc said:


> These 4 cyl turbos are mean to run on "regular" gas. Putting "Premium" in there is only throwing money away.


Incorrect. In fact it’s the exact opposite.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

jimmyc said:


> These 4 cyl turbos are mean to run on "regular" gas. Putting "Premium" in there is only throwing money away.


These engines are crippled and have significant enough computer controls that they CAN run on regular. What they are "meant" to run on is a different story. There's a notable difference in idle quality, episodes of knock retard , power delivery, and depending on the driver , fuel economy when switching from low octane to higher octane fuel.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

jimmyc said:


> "....initially used unleaded gas....."? Where can one buy LEADED gas anymore.....


Yeah, I saw that, too. As you noted, I think he meant regular unleaded, as opposed to premium.

As for the octane, even the normally aspirated 1.8 benefits from 89. These motors have like 10:1 compression, so the higher octane makes a noticeable improvement, altho it takes a little while for the ECM to adapt to it. I can see the turbos really liking it.

Doug

.


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## pinkjuano (Jan 17, 2020)

jimmyc said:


> "....initially used unleaded gas....."? Where can one buy LEADED gas anymore.....well, maybe isolated places, but realistically. unleaded is all we got. That's what these cars are meant to run on. The pumps say "89 Octane with up to 10% Ethanol". (More than that, unless you have a "Flex Fuel" motor.....damage)
> 
> These 4 cyl turbos are mean to run on "regular" gas. Putting "Premium" in there is only throwing money away.


I obviously meant regular unleaded as opposed to premium lol. Putting regular unleaded into these 4 cyl turbos is throwing money away and ruining your car. They are very finnicky and many other threads and posts on this forum will confirm that they need to run premium to work properly.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> You guys are overpaying for Amsoil, JC....


Break it down..


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

2014 Owners Manual, page 9-52 : "87 octane or higher". I've been running 89 ("regular in New Jersey) no problems at all.
Pennsylvania and New York State...same. No problems.

Can't remember anywhere I've been when the pumps said "87". Always 89 Around me, only VALERO says "Top Tier". I use that quite a lot....but the difference? (cars' performance?) Can;t tell.. But then, the CRUZE is not a "performance" car. Simply a 4 door sedan. Runs great, runs the interstates at 70 all day in comfort. And that's all I want. My hot-rod days ended the day after I got married.  ((Ford Fairlane 427 Cobra Jet/ Chevy Chevelle SS 396. Ahh..those were the days))


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Every manual since I've been driving has stated 87. And my oldest car was a 67 olds.

On another note. 

My aunt and uncle won't buy anything over 85. I don't think they've ever spent a dime on higher. And they have a 10 dodge which is 11.1 and a 14 Traverse I think 10.5 IIRC.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Where in NJ is 89 "regular"?


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

Ma v e n said:


> Where in NJ is 89 "regular"?


 Everywhere that I know of....pumps have 3 grades. 87...89...93. Sunoco has an extra one....94. 
87 does just fine in my CRUZE....use 89 if you feel better....93 & 94 are, IMO, a waste of money when it comes to my CRUZE.


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## winks79 (Dec 20, 2013)

I thought this thread was about how cheap it is to change your oil yourself. Didn't see anywhere the original poster ask about what gas everyone was using.

Anyway, I always use Super Tech Full Synthetic, not the high mileage either, and ac delco filter. Cost is around $20. Easiest car I have ever change the oil in. Takes me about 10 minutes and you don't even have to get any oil on you. I don't ever take the plug out or have to get under car at all. I use a mityvac to suck the oil out through the dipstick tube, and it gets it all out with no problem. The filter is right on top of the engine, so no need to crawl under for anything. I've changed it this way since it was new and car now has 136000 miles on it with never an issue.

I recommend everyone who does fluid changes on their vehicles to purchase a fluid vacuum pump. One of the best investments I have every made. I've used it for bleeding brakes, removing tranny fluid, removing coolant, and many other things. Paid for itself many times over.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

jimmyc said:


> Everywhere that I know of....pumps have 3 grades. 87...89...93. Sunoco has an extra one....94.
> 87 does just fine in my CRUZE....use 89 if you feel better....93 & 94 are, IMO, a waste of money when it comes to my CRUZE.


You literally previously said you didn't know where 87 was regular you only saw 89....LOL


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

And I haven't seen 94 at a NJ Sunoco in at least a decade. Where is there still 94?


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

MAVEN: Here in Beautiful Downtown New Jersey, our Sunoco Pumps all have 94. I use Sunoco, Valero, Conoco, EXXON, no-name....and when i "say Fillup with Regular" the pump jockeys (yes...NJ seems to be the only state with these guys anymore) they always reach for the 87.
When I'm in a state (all the rest) with self serve, I always go to the cheaspest....and never had any problems. Now....being fair, in my previous cars (Ford/Chevy) their electronics had a "knock sensor" that instantly retarded the timing so one never heard anything "bad". Can I presume my (and yours) 2014 CRUZE have the same? . 
.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

I live in southern NJ, and there's no 94 available at any Sunoco anymore, hasn't been for sometime.
And I've never heard anyone refer to 89 as regular either. Pumps down here at Sunoco have 87,89,91,93. So do some of the Conocos.


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

Maybe I'm wrong? Could be......(not the first time........)


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## Strawberry644 (Oct 10, 2020)

as far as oil i dont get any good deals at walmart so i get royal purple 0w20 for half price (47cad about 35usd or so) when its on sale as the castrol edge they sell is 69.99 all the time (note i only look for dexos oil the castrol edge always on sale is gold and not the black container that is accually dexos) i also get a fram gold filter to match (royals is stupid price and not sold in any store)

im writing from up in canada but here petro(owned by sunoco) has 94 down to 87 but its all blended with 10 percent ethanol no matter what you buy, IMO if im paying the extra why should they save money by diluting it (not saying its bad for our cars but you know might as well hold them to a standard) so now i go to shell instead as they are the same premium price for 91 with no ethanol blend.
in summary im currently babying this as its my first "new" car ,havent made a choice yet on the 91 vs 94 ethanol at the same price


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Walmarts around here sell pennzoil for $20.

Pumps around here are 85, 87, 91.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

snowwy66 said:


> Walmarts around here sell pennzoil for $20.
> 
> Pumps around here are 85, 87, 91.


Your re out in the far west plains or up in the Rockies arent you?


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Yep


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Yeah, that's the land of low octane. LOL.

Sunoco used to sell 86 octane here in Jersey, about 30yrs ago, but Boone I know of sells anything below 87 anymore as I believe the laws regarding fuel mean it won't meet specs.


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