# Blasirl’s Build:



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

_I've been toying with this post since day one and would have probably never posted it, but someone I know was harassing me, so here is the text beginning. Pictures will follow - sometime. My main impediment is every time I complete something, something else goes south or I change my mind and replace something. You would also think being an electrician the electrical projects I have pending would be top notch and done, but nooooo, I don't want to start em even - so someday..._

*2014 Chevrolet Cruze Fleet LT 1.4l AT*
Standard:
My fleet 1LT included the 1.4-liter turbocharged gasoline engine, 16-inch alloy wheels, OnStar, keyless entry, a tilt-and-telescoping steering wheel with audio controls, cruise control, a leather-wrapped steering wheel. air-conditioning, a six-way (manual) adjustable driver seat, a 60/40-split-folding rear seat, a trip computer, full power accessories, Bluetooth phone connectivity and a six-speaker sound system with a CD/MP3 player, satellite radio, USB port and an auxiliary audio jack.

It also came standard with stability control, antilock brakes, full-length side curtain airbags, front knee airbags and front and rear side-impact airbags as standard. A front-disc/rear-drum brake setup is standard on all models (except the 2LT, LTZ and Diesel, which are upgraded to four-wheel disc brakes). Also standard is OnStar, which includes automatic crash notification, on-demand roadside assistance, remote door unlocking and stolen-vehicle assistance.

Current Modifications:

Huskie Floor Liners throughout
Wing Spoiler (body color)







Spring assisted trunk openers







Split Leather shift knob cover (red stitching)







MGP "Cruze" caliper covers (red) -------_I have a set of unused rear covers FS or Trade - long story (still for sale as of 02MAR20)_







Cruze Pedal Covers (red)







(where's the pic??)
Snowshield & Mirror Mitts
Door Lock knobs & Bezels (red)







Sunglasses holder (gray) (How to install)








Cover Craft Sun Shield {Thanks to spacedout} *EDIT:* Upgraded to Rose color to match - _Blue shade FS or trade. (still for sale as of 18SEP20)_
Diode Dynamics XP50 Reverse Lights








Reverse Camera







Open anytime interior trunk release button
Trunk mounted volt meter, power and USB outlets







Trunk side rear seat covers
Rear Fog light (laser) - [see Reverse Camera photo]
Dual Fog light switch (still need to know how to get second switch to work)







Glass look rear window quarters *UPDATE*: Removed and replaced with black appliques - [See window tint photos]







Plasti-dipped rear chrome bar (red) (now it is painted 2020)
Shark Fin antenna cover (body color) (Had to repaint it once)
Diode Dynamics side marker lamps (amber)
Fog/Driving lights i.e. Flip Flop amber/white lamps - [See lip spoiler photo]
Leatherette parking brake covers (red stitching)
Couture RS look front lip spoiler (body color) _[this was rudely ripped off of my car at 70 mph on the Toledo Turnpike by a retread. Funny, I was on my way to court to fight a ticket procured during the Lordstown meet] *EDIT:* Added Lip Spoiler back! 19OCT17 @ 60280_







Z-Spec grille (Black Granite) {Thanks to Cully77} - [See lip spoiler photo above]
Splash Guards (fourth set now 2020)







Centrex High Carbon rotors
LS window seals (black) {Thanks to Scott at Lordstown} (black appliques finally installed July17) -[See window tint photos]
K&N Air Filter {thanks to Merc6}
16” LT rims with Blizzaks for winter with matching black & red wheel storage covers
A couple of 5hp stickers
In-dash USB charging port








Ultra Racing upper rear shock tower bar
Grenade valve caps (red) {since changed to chrome valve caps with a red R for Robert - the power wash ripped out one and stranded me at the carwash} May 2018
18” LTZ rims {Thanks to whitecruze} with Continental Pure Contacts (1 size wider) (waiting on TPMS) UPDATE: Chinese TPMS took an immediate dump, replaced with Sam’s Club items (replaced one of these ~JUL20)







Window tint by New Wave (35% I think)- 29JUL17 (redid the windshield tint after windshield replacement)




















This last photo is the difference between winshield and strip tint.​
Eibach springs {Thanks to Overbuilt} - 23AUG17








Bilstein B8 Sport Struts - 23AUG17
Moog front sway bar links & bushings - 23AUG17








Ultra Racing upper front shock tower bar - 23AUG17







GM strut mounts and bellows - 23AUG17
Front End Alignment - 25AUG17 (Sep 20)

MISC items:
Will not let me upload any more pictures!

Pending Modifications:

Rear View mirror with video screen (issues with wiring)(installed May 18, but not completely connected)







Smoked BMW style tails (need to decipher wiring)(tried to install May18, but ran into issues)(tried twice in Jun18)

















Add MyLink {Thanks to justsowicked} (Need to redo VIN first somehow)
Wndow vents (smoked) – (too lazy to put them on yet) (Done)
Whiteline 22mm Rear sway bar *Edit:* Completed at 65,000 19MAR18
Autometer Cobalt Boost and AFR gauges installed but not yet connected May18 *EDIT:* Connected Boost electrically 16JUL18 *EDIT:* Completed install 28AUG18
LTZ Cluster upgrade OCT2018

Planned Modifications:

EBC Greenstuff brake pads
Color match steering wheel trim (changed the Wheel to a Camaro Hot Wheels steering wheel)
Upgrade sound system (while keeping stock head unit) ala XR’s post


Completed Repairs:
Replaced negative battery cable (Warranty)
New Duralast brake pads and Centrex rotors
Repaired PF fender (repainted peeling paint & replaced fender liner 18SEP20)
Repaired DF rocker panel 19OCT17 @ 60280
Repaired front end 23MAY18
New camshaft seals 17AUG18 (Warranty)
New valve cover and gasket 17AUG18 (Warranty)
New water pump and a free coolant refill. 17AUG18 (Warranty)
Engine degreased 17AUG18 (Warranty)
Replaced (currently being shipped)one snow tire (Warranty) 03DEC18 73,XXX - *EDIT:* Installed 10DEC18 *EDIT:* Replaced all four snows 2021)
Slow coolant leak / Check Engine / Security System / battery 03DEC2018 73,XXX
DF rocker panel repaired again along with tire rash from when the H2 tried to eat me.
Changed the oil & Filter - 95912 - no analysis, Oil Analyzers must have shipped the two kits I ordered to China before they would come to me. 18DEC20
Installed a ZZP magnetic drain plug - 95912 -18DEC2020
Replaced the Surge Tank hose for the second time & topped off the coolant - 95912 - 18DEC2020
Replaced both intake and exhaust camshaft position sensors with Duralast part SU14096 and also purchased a crank position sensor SU13894 28APR21

Completed Modifications:
ZZP Pillar Pod {thanks to LS2 BLAZER}(May18)
Depo smoked side markers {this guy is the cheapest, but his Customer Service Sucks]Installed 23MAY18) Updated Link 20APR19
Bilstein B8 shocks - [Tire Rack shipped me the wrong ones - waiting on reply 26AUG17] *EDIT: *Installed at 65,000 19MAR18
Amsoil Oil (Wix filters) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}*Edit:* Completed at 65,000 19MAR18 *EDIT:* More oil waiting in the wings 2021
Amsoil Brake Fluid (time) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}*Edit:* Completed at 65,000 19MAR18
Amsoil Trans Fluid (time) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}*Edit:* Completed at 65,000 19MAR18
Big Three Kit (2 grounds installed so far - time) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}*Edit:* Finally completed the third cable on 11MAR18
Completed HomeLink, but not yet installed 07JUL18 see pics below *EDIT:* Installed 17JUL18
Diode Dynamics HP24 Switchback front signal LEDs installed 19JUL18
Installed a Verano engine shield SEP18
*EDIT: *Moog strut mounts and bellows - (same) [DST shipped the wrong parts - substituted GM parts]Soon to install a Scangauge II {Thanks to PanJet}* EDIT:* Installed
06JUN18 - *EDIT:* 26NOV2018 - gauge went blank - unsure of problem as of yet. Gauge went back on 10DEC18
Periodic oil changes
Re Vinylized the back bowtie 09AUG18
Purchased and installed power heated leather seats. - acquired them all piecemeal by 06APR19
*How I swapped in power seats*
 *How I Swapped in Power Seats part 2*
*How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats*
* How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats pt 2*
Hot Wheels Camaro steering wheel w/paddle shifters - I had to rehab it first before I installed it.
Carbon Fiber shifter/stereo surround - 2020
Dual exhaust with U-Power tips - 2020
Glove Box Light Ready to install. Waiting on connector from Mouser and Diode Dynamics LED. *EDIT:* Installed 18JUL18, but having electrical issues (fixed)

Additional mods listed here


Pending Issues/Repairs/Modifications:
Amsoil Coolant & Coolant Boost (As I have a fresh coolant change via the warranty this will be waiting) {Thanks to XtremeRevolution}
Troubleshoot the rearview mirror connections
Troubleshoot the glove box light (done) - 2020
Figure out the connections for the taillights I bought 5 years ago and install them
Waiting on my Amsoil shipment (18SEP20)(Received)
Forge Wastegate Actuator
Forge BPV
BNR LS7 coil upgrade
Racer X manifold
60lb fuel injectors
DP

*The day I brought her home in November of 2014:*

I still cannot find these pics...

*For Sale / Trade items:*

Eibach camber bolts - [so far not needed] - _FS or Trade - (still for sale as of 18SEP20) *EDIT:* Ended up installing these 2021
Complete set all black LT seats
Blue Covercraft sunshade
Full set of LS window seals and appliques )(all black)_


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Red Hot Cherry Bomb

(My "lowered" post)​


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

What to name her?

Little Red Car | Speed is my name


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Add the Whiteline front sway bar bushings to that mod list. A tutorial is coming as soon as I make some baffles. 

Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Add the Whiteline front sway bar bushings to that mod list. A tutorial is coming as soon as I make some baffles.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


I just purchased a set of Moog lifetime warranty ones with all the other Moog parts. Are you saying they are better and that I will see a difference?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Blasirl said:


> I just purchased a set of Moog lifetime warranty ones with all the other Moog parts. Are you saying they are better and that I will see a difference?


I just realized I said sway bar. I meant lower control arm. The OEM sway bar bushings I believe are poly. They definitely seemed stiffer than rubber I've had on previous cars.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Added a few pic's - more to come


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## mikestony (Jan 17, 2013)

Where did you find the rear trunk spring assists?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mikestony said:


> Where did you find the rear trunk spring assists?


Here is one example : Spring Assist

I actually have two on mine, but one will will work for a normal trunk lid.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

Blasirl said:


> Here is one example : Spring Assist
> 
> I actually have two on mine, but one will will work for a normal trunk lid.


What does it actually do? Mine already pops open.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

sailurman said:


> What does it actually do? Mine already pops open.


Even before I added a spoiler, my trunk would lazily open and many times I would hit the button accidentally - think butt dialing - and the trunk would look closed until I did a sudden stop and voila - open trunk in the middle of the road. This way, I KNOW when it is open. I added a second spring when I added the spoiler.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

So it 'Springs' all the way open :xxrotflmao:


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Leave it to an anchor clanker!

Go Army - Beat Navy!


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

Am I seeing the caliper covers correctly? Did you have to mod anything to fit them with the 16" 1lt wheels?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mechguy78 said:


> Am I seeing the caliper covers correctly? Did you have to mod anything to fit them with the 16" 1lt wheels?


No, none whatsoever. You do need to insure they are are installed absolutely correctly though as any little anomaly will cause them to rub. But once you get them set, they are great. Just remember to check them immediately after when you have your tires rotated etc as more than likely they will have knocked them out of alignment. I would also suggest you find a source for stainless star washers as the supplied ones only last until you take them off.

*EDIT:* After about 2.5 - 3 years these have been removed. Once you allow them to get tweaked a few times, they seem to refuse to stay put. I kept rubbing the bottom lip and it started to drive me nuts. I'd be at a long light and have to jump out and re-position the drivers side at least 3 times a week.


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

Great to know. I have been eyeballing those but veered away as they wee noted for either 17" or 18" wheels. Guess they'll be back on the list. Thanks for the info.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mechguy78 said:


> Great to know. I have been eyeballing those but veered away as they wee noted for either 17" or 18" wheels. Guess they'll be back on the list. Thanks for the info.


Do you have four wheel disks? If so I have a new unused rear set I'll make you a deal on.


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

Blasirl said:


> Do you have four wheel disks? If so I have a new unused rear set I'll make you a deal on.


No rear disc here, but thanks for the offer.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mechguy78 said:


> No rear disc here, but thanks for the offer.


Oh well - someday.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

She's finally lowered!

More pics and info here: Red Hot Cherry Bomb​


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Add the Whiteline front sway bar bushings to that mod list. A tutorial is coming as soon as I make some baffles.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


Just thought I'd mention that my Whiteline rear sway bar just showed up in the mail the other day.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Updated some of the info and posted a few more pics.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Finally had time to have the Bilstein shocks, the Whiteline swaybar and the Amsoil fluids installed.

















Just a photo that would not upload before - some minor mods:

bag hooks, steering wheel cover, CD organizer, sunglasses holder, radar detector and dash cam are all in this pic


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Tried to install all of my waiting projects that had to route through the pillar, but ran out of time. Here are a pic of the new mirror for now though.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Finished installing the pillar cover with the gauges, but haven't connected the gauges.


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Nice build, I like it. I just bought those "Euro tail lights" for mine. Were you having issues with them? How do you like them?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jondaytona said:


> Nice build, I like it. I just bought those "Euro tail lights" for mine. Were you having issues with them? How do you like them?



I actually figured out the wiring and put them in the Cruze two nights ago, but the tails and one brake light decided it wasn't going to work so I reinstalled the factory ones as the Bomb went to the body shop yesterday morning. Maybe after I get back from Lordstown.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Made some minor updates to the post.

Had the front end repaired last week at Pulera's. It started out looking like this after a tangle with a hidden piece of sheet metal. The metal was crumpled up and painted white/silver and was under a layer of fluffy snow in the middle of the roadway.









An after picture to come. I thought I had one, but found I still need to take them.

EDIT:
I found the paperwork for something that occurred on 25MAY2018

I went to Quaker City Motorsports Park dragstrip while in Lordstown and forgot to post my terrible times.

67582
The tires were 38psi
1/2 tank 87 octane
Traction Control on
Bone stock, no tune 1.4T
Trunk Junk
18" LTZ rims

I believe this is my second run.


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## Heretic (Apr 25, 2018)

That's a very nice ride, Blasirl! You should be proud of her.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Heretic said:


> That's a very nice ride, Blasirl! You should be proud of her.



Thanks,

So far so good although it seems for every step forward I went at least two back:dizzy:


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## Heretic (Apr 25, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> it seems for every step forward I went at least two back:dizzy:


It does seem to work that way with both women and cars. :rotate:


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*HomeLink Project*

1. So I finally was able to complete my HomeLink Project









2. This is the backside assembled.









3. This is the cutout. I learned that I could have cut even less out right at the last step when I clipped on the keypad.










4. This is the unit set in the cutout.










5. And this is where I found I could have cut out less material.









If you look close, you can see where the black tabs are not in contact with the area cutout for them. They did sit there up until I found the keypad would not clip on. There was just a bit too much space between the keypad and the unit. In picture four, you can see where I cut out around the tabs in line with the keys. Originally this was not the case and it set in there very nicely albeit too far from the cover. With them cut out, the cover snapped in nicely, but the back end lifted a bit. Oh well, live and learn. It seem to work well now. Hopefully in the next couple of days I can program the unit and actually install it.

EDIT: Installed 27JUL18 How to Program


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*How I installed a Verano engine shield*

I finally installed the Verano shield I ordered a few months ago. I first had to figure out how to get my 4 ton jack under the car. I made a mini ramp to get it up higher.










I then set about stenciling the new shield so hopefully it remains intact.










These are the closeups of the two labels










As you can see, I had a bit of a leak on the passenger side so I waited to install until after they were addressed.










Before I installed the new one, I compared the two for differences.










I used a hole saw and a razor knife to add the new holes. After installing it, I found the two holes used to connect the shield to the wheel well shroud on both sides were off. I used a wood bit to make some new ones in the shield.










I had to use the drill upside down to get it in there.










The only other items I had to deal with to install the shield was the two missing body nuts and an extra-large hole in the shield. The extra-large hole was easy, I just added a stainless fender washer to the original screw. It took me awhile to figure out a temporary solution for the two missing body nuts. I ended up using two Harbor Freight panel nuts and the matching screws. I expect they may last over winter. U-Clip and Screw Assortment, 170 Pc.
























Actually there one more item I chose to do and that was to create an opening around the oil drain plug.
I used a 3” hole saw and a scrap of plywood to make a jig and the drilled out the plastic / aluminum sandwich.

























Hopefully that will keep sloppy oil changes from lighting my fire.

Happy Modding!

71462


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

I’ll have to get a closer look at this in the upcoming off season so I can get mine on. I sourced mine along with the panels that go under the floor boards from a Verano at a local wrecking yard. 

By by the way, I like the idea of the cutout for the drain plug.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mechguy78 said:


> I’ll have to get a closer look at this in the upcoming off season so I can get mine on. I sourced mine along with the panels that go under the floor boards from a Verano at a local wrecking yard.
> 
> By by the way, I like the idea of the cutout for the drain plug.


The two side ones and the rear one? I never thought to look at Veranos for those. I had always thought they were only on the ECO's . If you have the actual body nuts or just the HF clips, a drill and the bits this is a quick job. I am not sure what you mean by off season, but this is an hour job at most. 

I had looked at all of the posts I could find on the shield and the only person I remember mentioning adding holes was @spacedout, but he never was specific. I know I eventually will drill some more once I figure out where the drips accumulate, but I knew for sure the drain plug area was going to be one of them. I didn't mention it, but you need to pull back on the shield while you are spinning the drill. I would go fairly slow and really pay attention where your fingers are. Also remember you are going through the aluminum too.


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

Correct I have the two side ones on. The front and rear stud was there for each side to line them up with. I drilled new holes around the edges to line up with existing hole in the chassis and used push pins to hold them up.

Couldn’t figure out the rear one as it seems to be missing a bracket or something in order to install it but I have it as well. My catback also doesn’t help as it sits below the bumper rather than sit in the cutout, I would more than likely have to clearance the rear piece in order to make it fit

We have a “busy” season at work that is about to end which will give me another day off each week to work on things. Given the hours I work there is no getting anything done until a day that I have off, not enough time before to finish what was started and too tired to do anything afterwards on the days that I work. 

This is will be in addition to the collection of parts that have been slowly coming in to be completed this winter for regular maintenance in my book. Come spring my Cruze should be a little bit closer to where I want it to be.


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## eddiefromcali (Aug 21, 2017)

good job on the shield. I installed mine a few months back....it hangs down a bit in the middle....didn't see where I could bolt it to or anything. Is yours tucked up nice or does it hang a lil too?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mechguy78 said:


> Correct I have the two side ones on. The front and rear stud was there for each side to line them up with. I drilled new holes around the edges to line up with existing hole in the chassis and used push pins to hold them up.
> 
> Couldn’t figure out the rear one as it seems to be missing a bracket or something in order to install it but I have it as well. My catback also doesn’t help as it sits below the bumper rather than sit in the cutout, I would more than likely have to clearance the rear piece in order to make it fit
> 
> ...


This must be my down season as I have went through a ton of boxes piling up in the basement (mostly parts for the Cruze) and installed a bunch of things.



eddiefromcali said:


> good job on the shield. I installed mine a few months back....it hangs down a bit in the middle....didn't see where I could bolt it to or anything. Is yours tucked up nice or does it hang a lil too?


Thanks. Mine bulges a bit too, but it is stiff because I used all the available mounting points.


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## eddiefromcali (Aug 21, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> This must be my down season as I have went through a ton of boxes piling up in the basement (mostly parts for the Cruze) and installed a bunch of things.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Mine bulges a bit too, but it is stiff because I used all the available mounting points.


same here..used all the available spots, just nowhere to bolt it up to where it kinda bulges


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*Renewing the Plasti-dipped Chrome Bar*

Renewed the Plasti-dip on the Chrome Trunk Bar yesterday. (EDIT: This is now painted body color)

1. Cleaned it with glass cleaner and then taped it off.










2. Added a light coat and then about a minute later completed it with a wet coat.










3. Removed masking while it was still wet.










All done - for now!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

eddiefromcali said:


> same here..used all the available spots, just nowhere to bolt it up to where it kinda bulges

















I kind of think that is better as it is farther (further?) away from the exhaust except for the flap on the right of the rear of the opening. Less melted stuff.


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## sparkman (Oct 15, 2015)

Trunk bar looks really good, it's really close to the OEM color.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

sparkman said:


> Trunk bar looks really good, it's really close to the OEM color.


Thanks, I really got lucky as that is the only red Plasti-dip color I found. Now if I could only find some touch-up that actually matches my car...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I added to my Cruze tool collection today:


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I finally found the time to thoroughly clean and install the LTZ gauge cluster I bought from xbazzarex.


While it was in pretty good shape, it was extremely dirty. I disassembled the unit into its multiple pieces and started by using a clean parts brush to dislodge most of the dirt. Then I took it to the shower and sprayed it with hot water. Once I felt it was clean, I used my air compressor to blow it dry. I then cleaned the lens with glass cleaner. I considered using either olive oil or baby oil on the lense, but I was afraid it would sour inside the cluster. I may try it on the outside later.

This picture is the sequence of the parts.










At first, before I actually took the unit apart, I thought the chrome ring and the clear lense were the parts I need, but I discovered I was mistaken. The smoked piece on the left as well as the chrome ring were what I needed.










I found that most of the "How To" threads omit a bunch of details. One thing I discovered was the small clips holding the flap (not sure what it's called) that covers the steering column are easily undone using a small screwdriver or two.

















I also realized that this is a job to do when you are not in a hurry, agitated or in need of the commode. All of the little clips are very fragile. This made me stop and really make sure that the clips are in the right place and ready to be re-engaged.










Here is a before and after of the completed install.

















*EDIT:* Some related links:
How To Remove Instrument Panel(Cluster) For Cleaning
How-To: Upgraded Instrument Cluster


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Recently ordered new filters from Rock Auto and discovered something after changing my filter



















I discovered that WIX makes a private label filter for CarQuest


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Last week the DIC had the padlocked Cruze body and a P0171 code after the car had sat for a week while I was on vacation. For some reason the car would not release my key until I went through the process of turning it on and off while slightly turning the steering, hitting the brakes and trying the shifter occasionally. The battery had died as well (I had a flat too, but that doesn't affect the engine too much.) After jumping the car, all seemed normal except for the dash lites.









*Blurry padlocked Cruze symbol*

I had also been having issues with the coolant leaking ever since the water pump had been replaced. So, driving around on a donut, breathing antifreeze with a christmas tree on the dash just didn't put me in much of a Christmas Spirit.










I dropped off the car with my favorite mechanic and just said fix it. I had to drive the Children's hospital to visit my daughter and just wanted to go. So, he changed the water outlet and added some coolant. He hard reset the electrical system as while it was in his possession, the interior of the windshield frosted (windows were closed) and the HVAC system decided not to work. and am monitoring the codes for now.

*EDIT:*

My good friends check Stabilitrack and power Steering are back. I have to see what the codes are later. 73100 miles 11DEC18


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

The two CELs went away and things were good until three days ago. Another CEL. I did not have my reader setup and kept going. Parked for a day and when I restarted, CEL was gone. When I get a chance, probably in a few more days, I'll check for all of them to see what they are / were.

Two days ago I hit the big 75,000. so far so good. My wife took the Bomb for a ride, came back and told me the radio now works. I haven't yet really tested it to see if indeed I get more than 1 station, but will also do that on the way home tonight. Was kind of brain dead this morning.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

P0171 last week, this past Friday and now again today. They show up and go away. 

A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. 
There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry. 
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection 
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) 
Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector 
Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!) 
Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0171

I'm hoping it is just a dirty MAF.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Boy, potholes are killing my car. I now have a metallic clunk on what seems to be the drivers side. Is is intermittant, but definite. I cannot see anything except some wire mess/screen coming off of the exhaust. I'm hoping to get some good weather so I can jack the car up and have a looky lou. I might get in trouble for this, but...










*EDIT: *I have discovered that the sway bar was the culprit. I added Whiteline sway bar end links for the cure.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I am looking forward to changing the snows out for my pure contacts, a thorough cleaning and swapping in my Hot-wheels steering wheel soooon!


what-did-you-do-your-cruze-today


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I discovered an LKQ pick n pull yard not too far from my house and a few weeks ago made my first trip there. I was able to get a bunch of parts I wanted to be able to put my Cruze back to stock if I needed to. I picked up a key surround, a center top junk box, a spare steering wheel bolt, a drivers door wiring harness, a center console harness, two tail light harnesses, a couple of positive battery cables, a ton of fuses and relays and finally, ECO panels and all of the fasteners for all three panels all from an ECO - the two rims left on it were trashed so no go on those. I found about ten Cruzes and most were LTs.

I found a 2LT that had a leather interior and started to take it out. For the price I could not pass it up. I was able to get the passenger seat out, but I did not know how to disconnect the seat belt and not wanting to ruin anything. I left it. I also picked up some rims for my daughters Cobalt as well as a trunk lid liner and a spoiler.










I went back eight days later expecting the leather seats to be gone, but they were still there. I had looked at how to remove the seat belts before I went back and did that right away. I did not however look well enough to see how the spring release on the rear seats worked. After about two hours of trying, I took out the sawzall and brute forced them out. The front seat was powered almost all the way back so I went out to my Cruze and pulled the battery and grabbed some wires. (I discovered the Blue Fungus was back - I must have a parasitic draw somewhere)

I tried everything to find a connection to power up the main harness. The front end was in terrible shape and I ended up not being able to power it up. I thought, "well, I made it this far, I'll strip the covers off, leave the frame and use mine." Well, that did not go as I thought it would either. I was able to remove the head rest cover only. The head rest would not come out. I had forgotten about the coat hanger trick. As I was about to leave, someone walked by and I asked if they had a minute. I held the push button in and we both pulled up. It gave way and I now had a complete headrest although it was stripped.

As I had already had the leather off the seat, but still captured by the head rest wells, I had a new challange. I stared into the wells until I went blind trying to figure out how to operate the releases. Closing time was coming so I pulled out the big guns again. I pulled them out with a pair of Channel Locks. Even with them out, I still could not figure out how to peaceably remove them. Now the leather seat back came right of as well as the heated seat pad. I was out of time so I had to leave the seat bottom intact.

View attachment 270569
This may not be the original pic










I was able to talk my son into coming with me about 9 days later. Guess what, The lone seat was still there. This time I brought a few DeWalt batteries fully charged and some wires with connectors for the batteries. My son stuck his head into the glass lined floor andproceeded to directly hot wire all of the motors. He would have been happy to only do the one needed to move the seat forward, but you know Murphy...

Whle he did that, I removed what looked like a decent intake manifold, an intact MAF, the body side drivers door main connector (someone who only took the outside mirror painted panels busted out the window as the door would not open and trashed the door panels and actually the mirrors as well - some people) and some other odds and ends I thought might come in handy. Eureka, he got it. I moved in with the breaker bar and removed the seat bolts and seat, I also snipped out the body side connector in case I needed to harvest some pins. All in all it was a good day, I had lunch with my son and scored some leather sets!











I finally consolidated the power heated leather seats from the 2012 2LT in my garage. As I said earlier, the drivers was stripped apart because I thought I would not be able to get the motor to run to move the seat off of the floor bolts to remove them. I figured half a seat was better than no seat. So I set forth to try and repatriate the leathers back to the seat. It took me about an hour as the zippers are extremely tricky to get started without tearing the stiching apart. I found the headrest was much easier to recover if you roll the leather between 1/3 and 1/2 back on itself. Do not pull on the small side tabs though, the stiching will come right out.
Except for the wells, this is the reconstituted drivers seat.










Now to install them


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Yesterday I did some spring cleaning - installed some new mud flaps and cleaned up the engine bay. I was going to wash her today, but it rained instead.








here is a broken flap








Broke the lugs








jacked her up
View attachment 270579









Cleaned off the area and found that the flaps rub the paint off. Good thing the panel is plastic.



After installing the rears, I decided I might as well put the fronts on. Not sure why, but I originally choose not to do this when I installed the first set.
You have to remove the plastic rivnut from inside the wheel well, and also from under the door sill. You can kind of see the hole in the shroud. I ended up using a panel nut and one of the screws that came with the flaps as the hole in the flap was too small and I did not want to weaken it any more than it already was. I also just screwed a second screw into the wheel well shroud. Not the best, but we will see.
[







ATTACH]270985[/ATTACH]

This is a front flap installed









This is some of the hardware









As I finished each end of the vehicle, I torqued the lugs to 100 ft-lbs.
View attachment 270585









Cleaned the engine bay up a bit.








#991 78286


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*How I swapped in power seats*

I acquired my leathers seats (I’ll refer to these as the new seats) a few weeks ago, ordered new headrest sockets and gathered all my tools.









I disconnected the battery using a 10mm socket and 3/8” ratchet.
I opened the driver’s door and used a razor to gently pry the cover on the seat belt connection open and then used my seal puller to open it all the way. No marks were left. I used just the pick on one at LKQ and it left a small divot.

















I then used the same 10mm socket and ratchet to unthread the bolt holding the belt together. After what seemed like a long time ratcheting, I checked to see why it was not coming out. I forgot this bolt is held in by a friction washer, so the next time I checked sooner.










After disconnecting the belt, I put the cover back on and closed the cap so I would not lose or break it. These can be rebuilt – more on that later.
I then moved the seat (the old seats) all the way forward. I discovered later that I should have raised it all the way up as well.










Through the back door, I used my articulated ratchet along with a ½” to 3/8” adapter and the largest Torx bit from my Harbor Freight kit to break the front seat bolts loose. A short, but beefy ½” drive ratchet with a pipe nipple for a sliding cheater was my other choice. I now know why the Torx bits were on sale. They all are marked 3/8 for the ratchet size and nothing for the Torx size.










I used my impact with a socket adapter and the Torx bit to remove them after breaking them loose. The impact was not strong enough to loosen them.
Once the bolts are out, I used my knees to push the seat up and forward and grabbed the slide rails with my hands and pulled back about 1-2 inches until the front hooks released.

















I set the seat down, got out and went to the driver’s door. I used a rawhide mallet to hold the seat up so I could disconnect the umbilical cord. First, I flipped the trap door open.


















I then found the tab used to lever out the connector.



















I levered out the locking device and the plug came right out. I pulled the mallet out and set the seat back down.


















I got out and should have put the seat all the way back, but I didn’t, and I struggled to get the seat out the front door. The passenger side I remembered to put the seat back and I took it out the back door. Much easier.

With both drivers’ seats (old and new) out and lying on their sides, I started on the new seat as these had blown seat belt tensioners.









I am going to describe this as if the seats are in the normal position even though I have them lying on their sides. I found that if I grabbed the tensioner cover plastic about 2/3rd’s of the way towards the front and with my fingers between it and the seat, twist and lift upwards while at the same time, using my other hand to push the front of the plastic piece up and also towards the front (forgot to take a picture of this), it will start to pivot off up and towards the back of the seat.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*How I Swapped in Power Seats part 2*

Now, using the same Torx bit and my long breaker bar, I broke the silver bolt loose. Again, I used the impact to finish the removal process.

















Now to remove the wiring. I found that the clips used to hold the harness to the frame differed between the 2014 Lt and the 2012 2LT donor. The 2LT metal teeth clips needed to be helped along with a small flat tip screwdriver. Think shark bite. The LT clips were easy snap on/off types.
The plug for the harness was a bit tricky to figure out. Find the red tab and pull it out fully.




















There is a small tab that then needs to be squeezed to separate the plug.














I ended up disconnecting the black push in clip so I could see how this worked. I used my little flat tip to lift the capture loop and slid it off. I removed it altogether from the seat to get this picture of it.










I set the tensioner aside for the moment.

Rinsed and repeated on the old seat. I then took the tensioner from the old seat and installed it on the new seat. You should use blue Loctite on the bolt, but used red as that is what I had on hand. It may be a mistake as red is supposed to be permanent. I torqued the bolt to 33ft-lbs using my torque wrench, the adapter and the Torx bit.

I then reinstalled the better looking of the two plastic covers. (Remembering that they are left and right handed.) I then put the blown one from the new seat back on the old seat. I did not use thread locker nor did I reattach the harness thinking that if I ever changed back to stock or possibly sold the stock seats, someone would end up taking those off again and possibly be rebuilding them. Why make it harder.
With seat out I took the time to vacuum the carpet. The driver’s side was terrible compared to the passenger side. Some slob must have taken up residence. I also cleaned up the console a bit too.










I inserted the front seat through the rear door and installed it in reverse of the removal. Same for the passenger side. Again, the bolts require blue Loctite and 33ft-lbs of torque.

This is a comparison between the 2LT cord (top) and the LT cord (bottom)












To be continued later


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats*

To start, I disconnected the battery with a 10mm socket and 3/8” ratchet. I removed the back-seat bottom by tugging on the end of the seat and gradually going toward the center.










I then used a 15mm open end wrench to take of the three nuts under the center of the folding seat backs.










With the nuts removed, folded the seat backs down. I then lifted the bracket up and gently pulled the seats towards the front seats creating a V between them.










I stepped into the V opening with one foot and reached down and lifted at the intersection with the now unbolted bracket. I lifted, up and forward, at the same time until the seat swivel pin came out of the 40% seat.










With the seats separated, the real work was to begin. I had read somewhere that all you had to do was push the seat back toward the door to get it out. It was
not all that easy nor was it clear on how to disengage the spring-loaded pin. I struggled with this for quite some time. I tried screw drivers, brute force pushing while trying to lift. Nothing doing, especially by myself. I was getting tired when I hit a eureka moment. I ran downstairs and grabbed one of my longer reversable quick clamps. I quickly reset it to be a spreader and got to work.
These are shots in sequence as far as what to look for but are of both sides. I just pieced this together to explain it. The first picture is the spring-loaded pin at rest. The second is when the seat is pushed towards the pin socket. The third is after it was removed and the fourth is an empty socket.










To be able to lift out the seat, the pin needs to look like number two. In order to get it there, I used my quick clamp spreader.

_I lost this photo somehow_

This is after I popped out the first pin.










I reset and pushed the 60% seat to get it out.

















Because I could not steady the spreader and lift at the same time, I used a prybar, as centered under the pin as best I could, to facilitate the lift. Now that the seat is disconnected, I set the 60% back against the front seats, so it will be out of my way even though it is still connected via the seatbelt.
























The next thing is to remove the nut holding the center passenger seatbelt. Remember the tab on the right and how it goes back together.










The last part of the removal, for me anyways, was the airbag bolsters. I think it would make things easier if you take them out either before or after the seat bottom is removed. I found that grasping both sides of the top is easiest. When you are pulling, pull out perpendicular to the sheet metal behind the bolster. Remember that the bolster pivots out for removal. This picture shows the metal loop that is sandwiched with a plastic piece that is inserted into a plastic cup that is in a sheet metal hole.

The second picture shows that the cup and insert is still in the hole as it did not come out with the bolster. I was able to reuse the clips this time. I ordered a pair of them just in case I damaged them. The third picture shows the lower mounting hole. [The plastic piece on the bolster just slips in, rotate the bolster towards the seat and clip in the top clip to install it.]
























The next thing to do to remove the bolsters is to unplug them. I found that a pair of needle nose pliers did the trick for me. I used a pair that the teeth were still decent and grasped the orange part and using my other hand, held back on the yellow part. It came apart very easily.































Now that the seats are out, I set about vacuuming and cleaning up the melted Good & Plenty’s my daughters left me. (I think I have since found a better way to remove the seats, but I’ll explain this later.)


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*How I removed and replaced my Rear Seats pt 2*

I cleaned up the leather seats and used some leather conditioner on them as well. I moved my pleather seat back covers as well.

Now to reinstall the seats. What I had done was to install the 60% seat first, torqued two of the nuts correctly and tightened the third with a wrench guessing at the torque. When I installed the 40% seat, I had no problems getting it in. Because of this, I discovered that it would be easier to bolt down the bracket first, torque the 15mm nuts to 33 ft-lbs, bring in the 60% seat and reinstall the seat belt remembering its orientation, and torque the 19mm nut to 33 ft-lbs as well. Now insert the pivot pin, remembering the plastic washer and then set the spring lock pin in place. Do the same with the 40% back.




















The last thing was to install the rear seat bottom.















wheel


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Just a minor modification...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Rehabbed my Camaro wheel last week

How-To: Disassemble a steering wheel to rehab it.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Installed my Paddle Shifter wheel last week.

How-To: Add a Working Paddle Shift Steering Wheel


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I really hate the editing interface. I was way deep in creating this post and because of a misdropped photo, it deleted the entire post. 45 minutes down the drain. They really need to create an auto draft saver or something.

AAARRRRRG!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Or allow a Word file drop in.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Getting ready to Change my oil.









I also had a few pairs of disposable gloves and a roll of paper towels.

I rolled onto my low profile ramp, jacked up the car and put it on stands. My driveway is sloped towards the street so the rear stands were a bit taller than the front, The drive also leans a bit to the right, so I ended up jacking up the right side a bit to level it left to right. It was a bit wonky as the car was only resting on two of the four stands as well as the jack. As long as I didn't pull or lean on it though, it was fine.



















First, I pulled an oil sample








That was messier than I thought it would be.

Prior to changing the oil, I performed an engine flush with Valve Medic. In all honesty, this is the first time I have ever bothered with something that before now, I thought was snake oil. To my tuned ear, it seemed that as time went on, running the engine with the flush in it, it got quieter. Quiet enough to get me thinking about getting a bottle of injector cleaner to see if that also helps with the incessant ticking. So first I brought the engine up to temp and then poured in the Valve Medic. I discovered after the fact that I should have done this the day before. I was reading about the Amsoil Flush and one other and forgot to read about the one I had. They all have different processes and I must have unconsciously chosen a different one. Que Sera Sera!










After about 20 minutes of varying the RPMs, I shut off the engine and pulled the dipstick, the filter and cover and then finally pulled the plug.










Here you can see my shield cutout worked wonderfully. For about 10 seconds the oil started to drip and pull forward for reason even though the car was level, but none spilled on the shield.

I changed oil again - Amsoil Signature Series SAE 5W-30. I am using up my supply of WIX filters, so will change out one in about 7,500 miles.

I'll have to fix/finish this later


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I just posted the results of my first Oil Analysis report.









1.4T Used Oil Analysis Thread


Great to hear! As I was driving home yesterday I was thinking I would go 18K total and change filter at 9K if that was deemed appropriate. Is there a better cartridge filter than the WiX? Other than a bypass setup. I am going to research running the filter longer or a better one. 18K intervals...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I really need to document my progress more often here. It was really difficult for a time as every time I would fix or add something, another problem would rears it head.

Pictures have been taken, but I have no time to upload at the moment. I have to clean up the timeline as well, but...

So off the top of my head ... and possibly after a few edits -- here is what I remember...

Jun19 - Bought a Magnaflow dual exhaust - still not installed: *Future Aural Goodness - Magnaflow 15495 Dual Cat Back Exhaust Unboxing*
EDIT: Installed at 930050  with UPower dual tips
23OCT19 - cleaned out the intake, cleaned my drop in K&N and re-oiled it. Made a video and it was terrible
27NOV19 - Did a seasonal tire rotation 85404
Replaced the front seal
Repaired a broken bolt for the AC bracket - no idea how it broke - took care of some rather disturbing noises though
Bought the V1 kit, but did not install for some time.
Bought a Trifecta Tune - not yet installed - installed
13DEC19 Inspected brakes, replaced front pads
Installed the V1 kit on a spare intake I acquired this past summer, just in case.
Good thing as I got three codes and a repeat so I installed the intake. I pulled the turbo to intake hose off a bit too hard and lost the plastic ring. I just put it back on with two o-rings and it seemed to stay snugly.
I made an appointment with a local Dyno shop to see what my base line is.
I thought I was good to go as the car ran great ... for a few days, P0420, I think, returned
Bought a new PCV hose just before XR announced his fix kit for that 
Installed new hose - back to running great again ... for a few days
I went to get an emissions check on the 16th and failed as I did not do enough drive cycles yet. The next day --
Water outlet I replaced a few years ago split off, spewing antifreeze all over the nice clean engine bay, I wanted to spew too. (the new emoji list blows!)
Bought a lifetime thermostat housing and gasket, Lifetime water outlet, a new reservoir to water outlet hose and some other assorted gaskets to get the free shipping. 12DEC20
Found that only the outlet needed to be replaced. It was dark and I needed to order the parts that moment as we had two out of three vehicles down at the moment and I had to work through the holidays so I went over kill sans correct diagnosis...
Yesterday went to the new Rocket wash and wash her up.
Went for an emissions test today and passed! Yahoo. Running like dream..
Too late to go to the Dyno this year, but will make an appointment next year (week).
The plan is to get a baseline, change to premium fuel, run for about a month or so on that and re-dyno again. Then I will install the tune on a basically stock motor. I'll data log and try to get it right before I go back and dyno again. I then have a few minor mods to install and yep, you guessed it, dyno again.
EDIT:
Dyno Tested again
05JUN20 Replaced my sway bar links 90388
On to fix the Caravan for now though.

Happy New Years all!

milestone


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Windshield Wiper Transmission Replacement










So, 30JAN20 at about 086981 miles on the clock, it appeared that my relatively new wiper transmission took a dump. The wipers stopped midway up the window. It's funny how long it took me to realize they were no longer wiping. Yesterday, I pre-order a new one from Autozone. This is the one:








Dorman Wiper Transmission 602-231


Shop for Dorman Wiper Transmission 602-231 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.



www.autozone.com





Today at 087036 miles I decided to replace it. I assembled what tools I thought I would need and I pulled the wipers and then the wiper motor cowl off.








Just to see what was wrong, I reached in and flipped on the wipers. They worked??
I thought, WTF? I suddenly realized I never went back and re-torqued the wiper arm nuts. Since I had already ripped it all apart, I cleaned out the area under the plastic cowl, wiped down the lower portion of the windshield and I installed new gaskets on the cowl before replacing everything. Once all was back together, I tested the wipers - duh - Completion Backwards Principle prevailed. Had to reset them at least a dozen times to get them just right. I should have remembered the last time, but I digress... While staring at the working transmission, I pulled out the new one just to compare it. The new one was very sturdy and it was coated black. Looked and felt pretty nice.

Again I had a WTF moment. They were different! The crank arm was on the left of the new one and in the center of the old one. Good thing the old one wasn't broke (-(although the left pivot seems to wobble a bit). 






#1,222

How to: Remove windshield wiper arms and windshield cowl





*THE TUBES ~ White Punks On Dope 
(The Completion Backward Principle Videos 1981)*

_at the very end look for Brian V_


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Space saver for now - still writing the post

Positive Battery Terminal Cleanup










While I was working on the wiper transmission above, I accidentally flipped the positive battery terminal cover up and saw what looked like a nesting type pathogen or blue mold for those non-medical folks.

















Again, WTF! This will be the third and probably last time I do this. If anyone hears about a sale on the 94R (H7) AGM batteries, please let me know. Well, I got out our battery cleaning kit and proceeded to slay the mold. The copper sulfate is fairly easy to get off, but the best thing would be to remove the over-structure / fuse box etc. and give it a bath with vinegar and baking soda. My battery - the original one by the way - has a leak next to the positive terminal that seeps out and eats the copper battery clamp. It is a fairly slow process as this has been happening since 2014 when I bought it.









Cruze Battery Upgrade Options
Holy Famunda Batman! There’s a blue fungus among us!


#1,222
#62


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

65000 - initial Amsoil Change (MAR2018)
 7500
72500 - second filter change (OCT2018)
 7500
80000 - second Amsoil change (actual 80551) (AUG2019)
 7500
87500 - second filter change due (actual 88386 15MAR2020) 

I think I am going to have it analysed again, so I will pre-order a test kit and probably another batch of oil just to be ready


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I decided to do a baseline dyno test on the stock engine on 87 octane fuel. I will probably post a video of it with the explanation from the operator later on. it took me forever to just get this posted. I will post a better quality copy when I can figure out how to convert a pdf to a png or jpg (EDIT: without piecing it together). I am currently on my second tank of 93 octane fuel. When I get through half of the next tank I plan on returning to the dyno to do another three pulls.

This is your Cruze on 87 Octane...









Picture: What did you do WITH your Cruze today


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> I will post a better quality copy when I can figure out how to convert a pdf to a png or jpg.


You can do that if you have access to Illustrator, but it's sort of a niche tool. It can read pdf's and export numerous bitmap formats.

That said, since I no longer have a working copy of Illustrator, what I usually do is do a Print Screen and paste it into Paint (or something similar such as paint.net , then save it as jpg or png.

To get better resolution, you can zoom in on the pdf in Acrobat Reader, and take multiple pics - eg, section it into quarters. Then, with multiple copies of Paint open, paste each shot into Paint, trim off the fat, then copy that into yet another Paint and re-assemble the image. 

Needless to say, it's a PITA doing it that way, but my software budget is pretty thin, so sometimes I have to make do like a hack  

Doug

.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

plano-doug said:


> You can do that if you have access to Illustrator, but it's sort of a niche tool. It can read pdf's and export numerous bitmap formats.
> 
> That said, since I no longer have a working copy of Illustrator, what I usually do is do a Print Screen and paste it into Paint (or something similar such as paint.net , then save it as jpg or png.
> 
> ...


I did the shrink in Adobe to get a whole picture in paint and uploaded it. I did not want to painstakingly section it as I have done that many times in the past. Somehow I will find a way to do it though.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I have finally been able to upload and minimally edit this video. The first four RPM ranges are blurred, but they are 2504, 2853, 3203 and 3902. Again, this is basically a stock 1.4 engine running on 87 Octane fuel.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Next up...










87581 25FEB2020


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Before the shave (older pic as camera did not cooperate with me)














































New Jewelry 24MAR2020


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I was doing some detailing yesterday and I must have left the door open too long or maybe the key in the on position too long, not sure exactly, but since I have been nursing this original battery from 2013, I figured since it was nice out and I was off I would install a new one. I shopped at about nine different sites online and ended up getting a great deal on a new battery from Pep Boys. $147 for an H7/94R.











Big Battery
25MAR2020


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Installed a set of Well Visors I bought long ago.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

This is your Cruze on Premium...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

This is a comparison of the 87 to 93 performance. The lower two darker lines, one of each color, is the 87 pull


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

After the drag strip opens and I can do a few runs, I'll move onto the next phase:

.......................................


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Interesting, why trifecta if I may ask?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Finally was able to upload the video of the 93 Octane pull. Not as good an explanation on this one. I'll be making sure the right person explains it next time.






Tire rotation: What did you do to your Cruze today?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

My best two runs:


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Is that with the traction control button off, then holding the button for 5 more seconds to completely disable it?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I did not know how to disable it completely, so I think I may have forgotten to shut it off on both of those runs. The track was really sticky and I bypassed the burnout pit, so except for being really slow off the line, the car did really well.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> I did not know how to disable it completely, so I think I may have forgotten to shut it off on both of those runs. The track was really sticky and I bypassed the burnout pit, so except for being really slow off the line, the car did really well.


Yeah it did. I notice when you completely turn it off, you can spool the turbo up by holdling the brake and giving throttle. Good way to snap an axle if it wheel hops, but it comes out of the hole much harder. I shaved 2 sec off my 0-60 time using that method.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I forgot to mention that this is without a tune installed, just in case that is not obvious. Just premium fuel, in the tank, 18" rims and trunk junk too. I did brake torque it though. I started the night not doing it and ended up trying it.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> I did brake torque it though.


Got ya, it wont spool the turbo really at all without T/C off. Not sure why. You planning to go back once you do some more upgrades and a tune I assume?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> Got ya, it wont spool the turbo really at all without T/C off. Not sure why. You planning to go back once you do some more upgrades and a tune I assume?


Yes, the next step is to install the tune and then back to the dyno and then the track. Rinse and repeat after bolt-ons as well.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Tune installed 29JUN20
90908


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> Tune installed 29JUN20
> 90908


You’re barely gonna be able to keep your foot off the throttle now.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> You’re barely gonna be able to keep your foot off the throttle now.


So far only twice on the juice. I have a few issues with the new tune to work out first.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> So far only twice on the juice. I have a few issues with the new tune to work out first.


I have a terrible habit of it now, the atmospheric BPV and boost gauge doesn’t help either...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Tune is doing wonderfully well now. I regapped the plugs to .024 and it purrs like a kitten.

Finally added a bit of carbon fiber...










Flip


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Center Console

I had a senior moment and turned a bit to sharply and turned my lowered Cruze into a Low-Rider Cruze so to speak. I hit a concrete divider and the front end lifted at least a foot off the ground.










Went to the house and put on a snow tire for a coule of days. Ordered a new tire from Sams and had it back on the car in two days. Not bad for a non-stocked tire.











I also learned something very interesting about these tires. They have an early warning indicator for when you no longer use them in (S)now, (W)et or (D)ry conditions in that order. The bad tire had between 5 and 6 /32nds of an inch of tread left.









Tried to make an appointment for a 4 wheel alignment, but the shop is temporarily closed for some reason.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Factory Tune on Premium vs Trifecta 'Stock' Tune on Premium The lighter colors are the 'Stock' Tune pull.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

93 Octane - Trifecta Stock Tune vs Trifecta Elite Tune


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

93 Octane - Trifecta Elite Tune Runs 2 and 3


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Was finally able to have my Dual Exhaust installed.










back from the shop
930050


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Had the alignment done. Spec sheet to follow...

Changed the Oil / filter and drain plug
Swapped out the surge tank hose for a second time and topped off the coolant.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Just a short list of items to be added in the future:


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Used, and dirty, but it will clean up OK.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I think I neutered the car!
Was driving home from work yesterday and for some reason I flipped the switch while at full throttle to kick in the Elite tune, which I purposely try to never do, and ….nothing! No boost whatsoever. If I feather the throttle I can get it up to about 3 psi, but then it drops back down to nothing.

I put it back to the Advantage Tune and still nothing. It was like I had a 1.8 with fewer cubes. No codes or CELs so far and I had put about 15 miles on her after this happened. I popped the hood once I was home and everything looked as it should. If it is nice tomorrow, maybe I'll do a boost leak test.

98669


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> I think I neutered the car!
> Was driving home from work yesterday and for some reason I flipped the switch while at full throttle to kick in the Elite tune, which I purposely try to never do, and ….nothing! No boost whatsoever. If I feather the throttle I can get it up to about 3 psi, but then it drops back down to nothing.
> 
> I put it back to the Advantage Tune and still nothing. It was like I had a 1.8 with fewer cubes. No codes or CELs so far and I had put about 15 miles on her after this happened. I popped the hood once I was home and everything looked as it should. If it is nice tomorrow, maybe I'll do a boost leak test.
> ...


Now what did you do?
I don't quite understand.....

How does this flipping a switch thing work?
I would think that in terms of performance, when you start changing hard parts that you would need to stick with one ECM Calibration all the time to keep the things consistent. Maybe I'm not understanding how Trifecta does it?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

You might want to try re-flashing the tune - I'm wondering if, since you were under high load, it confused the **** out of the ECM.

Someone I know just had something similarly weird happen with his FoST - he was sitting in the car, engine off...with the air on? (it was only like 60 out, so I'm not sure why this happened, but I digress)...and killed the battery. Recharged the battery - car would start and then die a few seconds later. New battery. Same thing.

Reflashed his stock tune, car runs just fine. Reflashed his performance tune, and he's back to normal. Somehow it just made the ECM go crazy, apparently. But it was fixed with reflashes.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

JLL said:


> Now what did you do?
> I don't quite understand.....
> 
> How does this flipping a switch thing work?
> I would think that in terms of performance, when you start changing hard parts that you would need to stick with one ECM Calibration all the time to keep the things consistent. Maybe I'm not understanding how Trifecta does it?


You can flip your cruise control switch on or off to hot toggle between tunes flashed on the ECM.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Thebigzeus said:


> You can flip your cruise control switch on or off to hot toggle between tunes flashed on the ECM.


Fancy....

But I could also see how it may be problematic under certain circumstances.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

I tend to lean toward mechanical side of things when I see issues with turbo systems. My brain says look at the waste gate actuator. I get that these are technically electronically controlled via a solenoid but if the mechanical part that holds the gate closed is not functioning then no boost. again this is just my thoughts.. I'm new to this car but not new to turbo systems. Other thought that it I believe your looking into is a coupling has slid loose somewhere llowing the pressure out instead of containing it to the pipes.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

Blasirl said:


> View attachment 290173
> 
> 
> View attachment 290174


Where did you get this ? Just metal sheathing or is there an insulator inside as well ?


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I think maybe boost leak from giving it the beans.

Reflash and tighten your pipes. Give us a report.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

Thebigzeus said:


> You can flip your cruise control switch on or off to hot toggle between tunes flashed on the ECM.


Cruise control on = Stock + or eco tune Cruise off is sport mode unless his eco tune is set for something else.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> Now what did you do?
> I don't quite understand.....
> 
> How does this flipping a switch thing work?
> I would think that in terms of performance, when you start changing hard parts that you would need to stick with one ECM Calibration all the time to keep the things consistent. Maybe I'm not understanding how Trifecta does it?


Basically I have two tunes loaded at the same time. One is considered a stock tune - with provisions for installed aftermarket parts, the Advantage Tune, and the other is one that takes advantage of the installed aftermarket parts, but also modifies the fuel tables, shift points etc. to get the most out of the engine without blowing it up. Trifecta uses the Cruise control switch to switch between them. If you have cruise on, you really don't need the Elite tune. If it is off, well, away we go.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

MP81 said:


> You might want to try re-flashing the tune - I'm wondering if, since you were under high load, it confused the **** out of the ECM.
> 
> Someone I know just had something similarly weird happen with his FoST - he was sitting in the car, engine off...with the air on? (it was only like 60 out, so I'm not sure why this happened, but I digress)...and killed the battery. Recharged the battery - car would start and then die a few seconds later. New battery. Same thing.
> 
> Reflashed his stock tune, car runs just fine. Reflashed his performance tune, and he's back to normal. Somehow it just made the ECM go crazy, apparently. But it was fixed with reflashes.


I first considered that, but I wanted to get some readings with a OBD-II reader that can chart live data. I went for a ride today, after doing the static reading and made sure I was at operating temp, and recorded for about five minutes. Since this is the first time I have used this reader, I have not yet really looked at the data. What I do know is as of last night, I still had a P0420, that I had planned on taking care of this week, This morning though, I had two more codes. P0017 and pending P0014. These have to do with the crankshaft sensor.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Mr_Pat said:


> I tend to lean toward mechanical side of things when I see issues with turbo systems. My brain says look at the waste gate actuator. I get that these are technically electronically controlled via a solenoid but if the mechanical part that holds the gate closed is not functioning then no boost. again this is just my thoughts.. I'm new to this car but not new to turbo systems. Other thought that it I believe your looking into is a coupling has slid loose somewhere llowing the pressure out instead of containing it to the pipes.


When I popped my hood this mooring, the engine was idling and I could here a metallic clicking that wasn't quite regular in rhythm. So I am staring into the engine bay listening thinking WTF is this. Well anyway I happened to be staring at the waste gate actuator thinking, maybe that is my culprit or maybe possibly my BPV as well. Then my mind wandered to later this spring and going to the track to see what my current setup can do. Then I snapped back thinking I may have to forgo the track and install my Forge pieces. 

Well, I still needed to go for a ride to get my live data for the reader, so I went. Guess what, The Boost is Back! (_That kinda sounds like the lyrics from an Elton John song_)


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Mr_Pat said:


> Where did you get this ? Just metal sheathing or is there an insulator inside as well ?


That is exhaust wrap.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

-loki- said:


> I think maybe boost leak from giving it the beans.
> 
> Reflash and tighten your pipes. Give us a report.


Could not find any boost leaks at all.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*P0017 *causes may include:

Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
Misalignment of timing belt/chain
Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
Bad crank sensor
Bad cam sensor
Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
A mis-built or mis-timed engine
A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Read more at: P0017 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B)

A *P0014* DTC trouble code may be caused by one or more of the following:

Incorrect camshaft timing
Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)

Read more at: Code P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Did you clear the codes and try again? Limp mode causes all sorts of weird stuff and codes. Ask me how I know lol.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Thebigzeus said:


> Did you clear the codes and try again? Limp mode causes all sorts of weird stuff and codes. Ask me how I know lol.


Yes it does. This one time, at band camp....

Oh, Sorry wrong story.

Last summer when I replaced my intake manifold, I lost the clip that secures boost bypass valve solinoid electrical connector and thought, "Oh, it'll be ok." Then a month later after the E85 install, I went to do a WOT run for a data log. It pulled hard at full boost. When I let off and went to take off again for a stop light, nothing. No boost whatsoever. And then an check engine light. I thought I blew something up! 

When I got home, I pulled a P0033 (Turbocharger or Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit). The boost bypass valve control solenoid electrical connector came off. I plugged it back in a searched the driveway for the clip I lost a month earlier and somehow I found it.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

JLL said:


> Yes it does. This one time, at band camp....
> 
> Oh, Sorry wrong story.
> 
> ...



Its the little things that matter


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> Did you clear the codes and try again? Limp mode causes all sorts of weird stuff and codes. Ask me how I know lol.


I have not yet, but the codes did not appear until the next morning as I was looking at my Scan Gauge on the way home when it happened. 
What has me a bit worried is the odd tick. It could be a piece of some part that broke free causing the codes to show up.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I reset the codes this morning and almost immediately the P0017 came back


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> I reset the codes this morning and almost immediately the P0017 came back


Rut-Row.....

Do you have the timing tools to check the timing?


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Aside from wiring issues or a bad sensor... It sounds like you may have a larger mechanical issue unfortunately. Especially with a ticking sound. Think the chain tensioner is loose and you’re hearing that through the valve cover? I bet so. Was it loose enough for the chain to skip a tooth, also plausible.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Skipping a tooth on a chain would be very hard. You would have to have sheared a tooth on a gear. Sorry to hear Blasirl keep up us to date. A compression test may yield if the timing is jacked. You could be ticking because the ecu knows the equipment sensing the timing is off.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Is the 1.4 an interference engine? Hope you get this resolved bud.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Do you have the timing tools to check the timing?
[/QUOTE]
Not at this point. All I have is an old Craftsman timing light.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> Aside from wiring issues or a bad sensor... It sounds like you may have a larger mechanical issue unfortunately. Especially with a ticking sound. Think the chain tensioner is loose and you’re hearing that through the valve cover? I bet so. Was it loose enough for the chain to skip a tooth, also plausible.


The ticking is irregular, like a piece of metal is bouncing around. It is not very loud either.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

-loki- said:


> Skipping a tooth on a chain would be very hard. You would have to have sheared a tooth on a gear. Sorry to hear Blasirl keep up us to date. A compression test may yield if the timing is jacked. You could be ticking because the ecu knows the equipment sensing the timing is off.


Thanks, will do.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

-loki- said:


> Is the 1.4 an interference engine? Hope you get this resolved bud.


Me too as this is my daily.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

-loki- said:


> Is the 1.4 an interference engine? Hope you get this resolved bud.


Thankfully the LUJ is *not* an interference engine, unlike the 1.8L and 2.0L diesel.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> The ticking is irregular, like a piece of metal is bouncing around. It is not very loud either.


If this is the case, I would drive it as little as possible until you figure out the issue.

Do you have a second vehicle you can drive?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> If this is the case, I would drive it as little as possible until you figure out the issue.
> 
> Do you have a second vehicle you can drive?


Unfortunately no, our household is already down one vehicle and I travel about 200 miles plus every eight days.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> Unfortunately no, our household is already down one vehicle and I travel about 200 miles plus every eight days.


Sorry to hear that.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

What about the cam solenoid/phasers? How does the ECU know what position they are at? Maybe if there is a feed back circuit for those you may have one going bad? But the ticking could be part of the tensioner assembly or just a chain with a bad roller somewhere. Is there any sort of rhythm to the ticking?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

-loki- said:


> What about the cam solenoid/phasers? How does the ECU know what position they are at? Maybe if there is a feed back circuit for those you may have one going bad? But the ticking could be part of the tensioner assembly or just a chain with a bad roller somewhere. Is there any sort of rhythm to the ticking?


No rhythm, kinda random.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> No rhythm, kinda random.


My bet is either a timing guide or the timing tensioner...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> Yes it does. This one time, at band camp....
> 
> Oh, Sorry wrong story.
> 
> ...


I was just going back over these conversations in case I missed something. I just saw you mentioned the E85 install here. Did you install the Racer-X version?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> I was just going back over these conversations in case I missed something. I just saw you mentioned the E85 install here. Did you install the Racer-X version?


No. I bought my E85 kit from Vermont Tuning. It came with Injectors, an ethanol sensor, a fuel line, a wiring pigtail, scotch locks (which I didn't use), a fuse tap, and an ECM terminal pin.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> No. I bought my E85 kit from Vermont Tuning. It came with Injectors, an ethanol sensor, a fuel line, a wiring pigtail, scotch locks (which I didn't use), a fuse tap, and an ECM terminal pin.


I was looking at the Racer-X version and the installation instructions threw me. I think they meant to say remove the grey pins and install the black and white one, but then where do the grey ones go?

" Locate pin 20 and 34, and using a small flat head screwdriver press the gray pins out of the connector. You will then pull the black ground wire though pin 20 and the white signal wire through pin 34. Make sure the connector is seated correctly in the terminal. With pins seated, re-assemble the connector and route wiring. (Fig 4) "

https://racerxfabrication.com/install/sonic/flex-fuel-kit.pdf


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> I was looking at the Racer-X version and the installation instructions threw me. I think they meant to say remove the grey pins and install the black and white one, but then where do the grey ones go?
> 
> " Locate pin 20 and 34, and using a small flat head screwdriver press the gray pins out of the connector. You will then pull the black ground wire though pin 20 and the white signal wire through pin 34. Make sure the connector is seated correctly in the terminal. With pins seated, re-assemble the connector and route wiring. (Fig 4) "
> 
> https://racerxfabrication.com/install/sonic/flex-fuel-kit.pdf


This is how I wired the ethanol sensor pigtail. I connected the red wire to a switched power source. I connected the black wire to a grounding post on the driver's side strut tower. Finally I added the signal wire to pin #34 of the grey ECM connected using a pin. I had to remove a dummy plug in the connector and then I installed my new pin.

Does that make sense?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> This is how I wired the ethanol sensor pigtail. I connected the red wire to a switched power source. I connected the black wire to a grounding post on the driver's side strut tower. Finally I added the signal wire to pin #34 of the grey ECM connected using a pin. I had to remove a dummy plug in the connector and then I installed my new pin.
> 
> Does that make sense?


So the dummy plug is the grey plug they were referring to?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> So the dummy plug is the grey plug they were referring to?


Yes. I believe they make a special tool for it, but a *very* small screwdriver will work.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Did you dig into the repair yet?


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

JLL said:


> My bet is either a timing guide or the timing tensioner...


Yep, I think it has to be the guide. Somewhat common to loosen on these engines.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

-loki- said:


> Did you dig into the repair yet?


I am still on my work cycle, so not yet.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Bump for an Update @Blasirl


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

JLL said:


> Bump for an Update @Blasirl


I am quite intrigued as well, I personally wouldn't want to risk driving with CEL's on.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Thebigzeus said:


> I am quite intrigued as well, I personally wouldn't want to risk driving with CEL's on.


Me either. But from what I understand he doesn't really have another option available.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Sometimes you just have to risk it. A good beater car is highly underrated to have around. Hope he's getting it fixed up.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

-loki- said:


> Sometimes you just have to risk it. A good beater car is highly underrated to have around. Hope he's getting it fixed up.


Rental cars can be had for $20 a day or so 🤷‍♂️


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

-loki- said:


> Sometimes you just have to risk it. A good beater car is highly underrated to have around. Hope he's getting it fixed up.


A beater car is GREAT to have around. Two forms of transportation is a game changer.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I recorded some data on an Actron OBD-II reader and downloaded it onto the attached pdf. If anyone knows how to read this thing, please help me out.
I highlighted a few things that stuck out, but I am not a this gadget guy. I am leaning toward replacing the exhaust side camshaft sensor, but I figured I ask here first.

I gave away my 2nd vehicle last week, and I am not renting a car unless something radical happens.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

I still say it skipped a tooth. Those codes lean that way too. Isn't it rattling a bit? I really would take the valve cover off and check the tensioner/guide.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> I still say it skipped a tooth. Those codes lean that way too. Isn't it rattling a bit? I really would take the valve cover off and check the tensioner/guide.


I thought about the tensioner as well. But after changing the sensor. one bolt and a bit over $20 is easier than pulling the cover.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> I thought about the tensioner as well. But after changing the sensor. one bolt and a bit over $20 is easier than pulling the cover.


It would also cause the other codes as it's not getting a clean burn I believe... I mean yeah go ahead and change it, it can't hurt. Buy a new gasket for it too if it doesn't come with one since they leak somewhat often. (Had to have both of mine replaced)


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

I would change the exhaust cam shaft position sensor. If it is reporting back incorrectly it will cause it to run like dookie. The 420 code is probably a result of the cam being out of phase from where it is supposed to be. 

Ecu commands 30° 
Actuator moves normal commanded amount.
CPS says hey actuator you didnt get there or you moved to much because its fubar. 
Ecu tries to correct
Making car run like crap. 
This correction happens constantly. 
Just like a servo on CNC.

Let us know what happens.
I think your onto it though.


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## -loki- (Dec 13, 2019)

Or... the camshaft position sensor is fine and the cam is not physically moving as it should and it's being reported its not.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Did you make any headway on your issue @Blasirl ?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> Did you make any headway on your issue @Blasirl ?


I'm on vacation, but before I left I changed both exhaust and intake sensors, no changes. Will try other things after returning.


Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk (**** self correction)

Milestone


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> I'm on va ccx ation, but before I left I changed both exhaust and intake sensors, no changes. Will try other things after returning.
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk


Enjoy your vacation!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

_The following is a long and boring story - you can skip and miss not much._

I went to Sam's to have the tires swapped as I have a lifetime package for both sets of tires. The Back Story: I bought a set of Blizzaks from Tire Rack on my way home from Lordstown in 2017. I had also picked up my 18" rims on the way through Ohio. I knew I wanted Continentals but thought I could get a better deal at Sam's. I had Tire Rack mount my snows on the LT rims and drove home. Went to Sam's the next day and compared the offer from Tire Rack to theirs. They said they would match it and I got the better tire price to boot. I also paid an extra $41 for the balance and rotate package for the snows as they were brand new. This set me up for lifetime seasonal tire rotations and balancing as they were on separate rims and did not entail little if any extra work on their part. I had tire bags with location indicators on them so they would know where to rotate the tires to next season. I also set this deal up with my daughters Cobalt.

Well, every other time I would go, someone new would be there and try and charge me for the seasonal rotation. I was able to get them not to most of the time. This brings me to the other day. I had made the appointment last week after trying for about 4 weeks on and off calling to schedule. I had to physically go there to do it as they are short staffed and basically do not answer the phone. If you get through to the service desk, sometimes you can leave a message and they might call you back. For me, I have a home phone and they leave a message that they called and to call them back. Basically, amounts to no appointment, so I go in. I was lucky to get a first thing in the morning appointment on my off day over a week later. I loaded up my summer tires and got there early.

I had a good rapport with a few of the other employees, but today there are two guys I have not seen before except when I made my appointment. First thing they want to charge me extra for the seasonal change. I go through the same spiel I usually do and one of them finally says “we’ll take care of it” while the other is looking for ways to still charge me. I leave my keys and go into the store. 15 minutes later I get called back to the desk.

They said we have some bad news. You need new tires. They had brought out one of the summer tires (Continentals). Sure enough, it was being worn on the inside of the tire. They immediately started in on me to buy some Goodyear's that were on sale. I said I wanted the Continentals. I would buy another of them set from them. He said they were not in stock. He then went on to tell me I also needed new snow tires and that they were worse than the Continentals. I agreed and had expected that. I asked for a quote. He immediately said that they were not available in my size. I said I was not going to decide standing there in front of his desk as to purchasing other brands of tires. He then said that they did not know what to do. Then they agreed to put the snow tires back on. I said put three of the summer tires on and one snow tire and order me one of the Continentals. He said he could not do that as the rim sizes were different. I said the overall diameter was very close. They refused. I then called BS on them. I thought to myself that this was just a high-pressure tactic to buy tires right then and there. I then went and sat down to wait for my car. 

After they put the snows back on, they brought out my keys. I told him that they had just lost sales for eight tires and that I would not be coming back. After getting home, I called Firestone to get a quote on both sets of tires. They are competitive on the snows , but over $300 above on the other. They offered me the same deal for the rotations and balancing and said I could have the summer tires delivered to them If I bought them elsewhere. I also already have lifetime warranty for the front-end alignment with them, so this will be easier for me in the long run.

Later, I dragged out the jack, stands, chock block and tools and proceeded to swap the rear tires. I go to remove it and thought holy cow, what gorilla put these on. Just to see, I retrieved my torque wrench and set it to 100 ft-lb's and tried to remove the lug. Click, moved to 110, click, 120, click, 130, 140, 150 and then beyond the vernier markings – click. WTF. Well over 150 ft-lbs. on every lug. I got my 3-foot breaker bar out and struggled to get them off. I changed the rears. I then went on to change the brakes on the passenger side. Once done, I pulled the cover off the same tire they had showed me earlier. As I did so, a small dull silver thing fell to the ground. It did not occur to me what it was at first. I went on to roll the tire over to get it ready to mount. I happened to look at the inside of the rim and saw the paper backing next to three other stick on weights and realized what had fell out of the cover. I reach down and saw that a second weight was barely hanging on.

So, in conclusion, it seems they did not like it when I called BS on them for not swapping out my tires. You would think they would at least put on the better set. I still do not see why they would not put on three summers and one snow. When I replaced one of my summers last fall, they had no issue with me pulling in with that very combination on. Then to add insult to injury, they over tightened my lugs by 50%. Add this to the possible tampering with the weights on the tires and what do you get? 

It just occurred to me that they never said anything to me when they did the summer to winter swap about my summer tires needing replacement.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> _The following is a long and boring story - you can skip and miss not much._
> 
> I went to Sam's to have the tires swapped as I have a lifetime package for both sets of tires. The Back Story: I bought a set of Blizzaks from Tire Rack on my way home from Lordstown in 2017. I had also picked up my 18" rims on the way through Ohio. I knew I wanted Continentals but thought I could get a better deal at Sam's. I had Tire Rack mount my snows on the LT rims and drove home. Went to Sam's the next day and compared the offer from Tire Rack to theirs. They said they would match it and I got the better tire price to boot. I also paid an extra $41 for the balance and rotate package for the snows as they were brand new. This set me up for lifetime seasonal tire rotations and balancing as they were on separate rims and did not entail little if any extra work on their part. I had tire bags with location indicators on them so they would know where to rotate the tires to next season. I also set this deal up with my daughters Cobalt.
> 
> ...


I can't read all that my friend. You lost me at long and boring.  Can I get the short version please? Or is that the video?


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Just an FYI, Discount tire price matches everyone. Go there, for sure.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> I can't read all that my friend. You lost me at long and boring.  Can I get the short version please? Or is that the video?


Got boned by Sam's


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> Just an FYI, Discount tire price matches everyone. Go there, for sure.


I have a set of Continentals being delivered to Firestone from them.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> Got boned by Sam's


We never considered Sam's Club or Wal-Mart competition when I worked in the automotive service industry. We would be the people that they called when someone screwed up. They were notorious for over torqueing lug nuts, or worse, oil drain plugs and then snapping wheel studs or stripping drain plug threads the next time around when they tried to service the vehicle the next time around.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

This my second or third water outlet, I kinda forgot now. This one is a Dorman. The saving grace is it's a lifetime warrantied part, unlike GM's. Repaired on 17JUN21


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I forgot about this - 02JUN21:


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> I forgot about this - 02JUN21:
> View attachment 292871


I'm confused. That's your average speed over 7,070 miles displayed in the DIC. What are you getting at?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> I'm confused. That's your average speed over 7,070 miles displayed in the DIC. What are you getting at?


Didn't know that. Not sure how I got it to display either. 

Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk


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## Shroomie (Jan 16, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> _The following is a long and boring story - you can skip and miss not much._
> 
> I went to Sam's to have the tires swapped as I have a lifetime package for both sets of tires. The Back Story: I bought a set of Blizzaks from Tire Rack on my way home from Lordstown in 2017. I had also picked up my 18" rims on the way through Ohio. I knew I wanted Continentals but thought I could get a better deal at Sam's. I had Tire Rack mount my snows on the LT rims and drove home. Went to Sam's the next day and compared the offer from Tire Rack to theirs. They said they would match it and I got the better tire price to boot. I also paid an extra $41 for the balance and rotate package for the snows as they were brand new. This set me up for lifetime seasonal tire rotations and balancing as they were on separate rims and did not entail little if any extra work on their part. I had tire bags with location indicators on them so they would know where to rotate the tires to next season. I also set this deal up with my daughters Cobalt.
> 
> ...


it's pretty common these days with the torque. I seem to get the arsholes who torque 150+... I'm standing on the cheater hoping I don't snap a stud trying to break it loose 😆


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> Didn't know that. Not sure how I got it to display either.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk


If your turn the little arrows on the turn signal stalk you can cycle through the different screens. On my car, I have: Trip 1, Trip 2 (what you display), Gallons Used, Speed, Blank, Navigation, and a Screen showing Speed, instantaneous fuel economy, and miles to empty.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

JLL said:


> If your turn the little arrows on the turn signal stalk you can cycle through the different screens. On my car, I have: Trip 1, Trip 2 (what you display), Gallons Used, Speed, Blank, Navigation, and a Screen showing Speed, instantaneous fuel economy, and miles to empty.


I kew about most of them, just not specifically the avg MPH over the trip, which in this case is the total mileage I put on the vehicle since I purchased it.


P0355 & P0356 issue: 
I have a P0355 & P0356 on a 4 cylinder ??? -- SOLVED! 
P0355 and P0356 along with never ending cranking


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Another coolant blowout!

Last time this area had a failure was 17JUN2021 at about 100632 miles. This time, 07AUG2021:










Time for a little detailing I see.

This is my description of what happened:









Blew the Surge Tank Hose yesterday - and fixed it.


This was totally unexpected. I finally get 'er runnin' right and all of a sudden, she overheats. WTF! I go back home, and as I pull in I see the temp is 231*F. Oooui that's hot! I pop the hood and I look close and see what I thought was a broken clip at the water outlet. I had not that long...




www.cruzetalk.com





I discovered that a little longer screwdriver is the way to go to remove the vent screw. Instead of angling over the top, this one is able to go straight to it under the hoses.



















Washer Filter


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Here is a Winjet unboxing for your viewing pleasure🤢


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I ordered a new set of Blizzak WS90's today. I have a local Firestone who price matches. I brought in a PDF from Discount tire, who offers a military discount, and they beat the price by a few dollars. About $105 each.
Tomorrow I will order a new set of Continental Pure contacts.

Also spent a fair bit of time trying to figure out a P20197 along with my perennial P0420. So far no luck.

103571

New Shoes

EDIT: Just installed the snows a couple of days ago:









What did you do TO your Cruze today?


Chrome in air quotes. They made it have a metal like appearance so I lump it into the fake chrome category. It doesn’t look ideal too me, I’d prefer black. I wouldn't say it's metal-like at all, just silver. My Cobalt is similar, albeit just flat-silver. And that matches the stitching and...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

107924 160010MAR2022 31*F

I was finally able to try out my new jack on the lowered Cruze. Works like a charm. Pulled an oil sample and changed the oil & filter, and reset the OLM. Next I have to get my emissions done.



















Previous oil analysis
oil change


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> 107924 160010MAR2022 31*F
> 
> I was finally able to try out my new jack on the lowered Cruze. Works like a charm. Pulled an oil sample and changed the oil & filter, and reset the OLM. Next I have to get my emissions done.
> 
> ...




ohh Amsoil, fancy! You got all your engine issues sorted I take it?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

For the most part. I am still trying to pass my emissions test. I also discovered a pinhole leak in my exhaust flex coupling. I am hoping to find someone who will just plug the hole for a reasonable amount so I can get through until I replace the midpipe. Once I pass the emission test and fix the pinhole I plan on my next round of mods and then on to the dyno again.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Installed my Forge Wastegate and BPV on 11MAY2022. Figured out the over boost problem on 20MAY2022. There were at least 200 agonizing miles in between installation and full boost!











Menards to the rescue!


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