# Snows for a 2011 LS



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

1. If you get a lot of snow, YES.
2. Never put snows on only two wheels. They need to be on all 4.
3. Firestone Blizzaks are excellent for shallow and medium snow, and ice, as well as treadwear. I wouldn't go with winterforces as they are more designed for medium and deep snow, which you won't get much of. Blizzaks should run you $450 a set mounted. I'll be buying a set on steel rims for this winter. 
4. I would get a set of steel rims specifically for the winter tires. That way, you don't need to dismount your tires and pay to have them mounted again in the spring. 
5. Same as it does with all seasons. If you have trouble moving when stuck, you may need to turn it off, but that's very doubtful with Blizzaks. 

You put them on near the first snowfall, and you take them off when the season ends. Don't drive on them longer than you have to.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Get a set of Nokian WR-G2's. Those are truly a "jack of all trades" tire that are rated as a snow tire, yet can be run year-round. They do very well in the snow/wet, and handle well in the summer too. 

SE PA gets more chilly than snowy, at least per my relatives and friends in Newtown and King of Prussia. Sounds like the WR-G2's would be right up your alley as a true year-round tire.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> Get a set of Nokian WR-G2's. Those are truly a "jack of all trades" tire that are rated as a snow tire, yet can be run year-round. They do very well in the snow/wet, and handle well in the summer too.
> 
> SE PA gets more chilly than snowy, at least per my relatives and friends in Newtown and King of Prussia. Sounds like the WR-G2's would be right up your alley as a true year-round tire.


With all due respect, there is no "all season" tire. There's a 3 season tire, and a winter tire. I have never seen a single tire that can do both as effectively. I used to think the same thing with M/S rated tires until I ran snow tires for the first time. The tread compound must be softer for the winter or you aren't going anywhere and your ice traction will be inferior. The soft rubber compound, however, will wear much too soon the moment weather warms up. You'd be lucky to get 15k miles on them if you don't drive them exclusively in the winter. The difference is enormous. 

Want to know how enormous of a difference it is? On a drive out to California from Chicago a couple of years back, we went through a snowstorm that killed 12 or so people and stranded hundreds. Our car wasn't stranded. Heavy winds everywhere, hard packed snow on the ground. We passed by a car that had recently spun out, so I turned off the next exit and came back to help him. He was driving a late model AWD Ford Escape with "all season" tires. He had spun out and ran into the center divider 15 feet from an emergency turnabout, in about 3 feet of snow. A cop showed up and I got permission from him to *tow *him out. Here's what the conditions were like:


























I carry a 25 foot 50,000lb rated truck strap in my trunk for this reason, so I hooked myself up from the front subframe, hooked him up, and with my car in the same snow he was stuck in, I towed him out. Best of all, I have pictures that my sister in law took from the back seat. 


















And the Regal with those snow tires on:


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## 2013Cruze (Aug 4, 2012)

Xtreme what you suggest for snow tires for my LTZ thanks.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

2013Cruze said:


> Xtreme what you suggest for snow tires for my LTZ thanks.


I would highly recommend that you get a set of 16" steel wheels that would come on the Cruze LS and put snow tires on those. 215/60/16 will be the tire size you want. A set of snow tires for the LTZ rims will be very expensive and you don't need snow tires on 18" rims. 

I only have experience with the Bridgestone Blizzak tires. I've run them for two winters now. You saw the pictures above. This year we didn't have much snow, but we did have snow at a critical time when my father in law was in a hospital, and my mother in law was able to use my car to get there, even passing several SUVs that were stuck on the side of the road that couldn't move. 

The benefit will come by using any winter tire due to the rubber compound used. I would recommend also looking at the Continental ExtremeWinterContact, and the Dunlop Graspic DS-3 tires. Expect to pay $105-$115 a tire. The latter two seem to have a better warranty than the Blizzaks. Mine have two winters on them and they have at least two winters' worth of tread left in them.

I don't know what discount tire charges for any of these, but tire rack has them with a rebate right now. I believe discount tire would be able to match that price, but don't quote me on that.

Winter tires sound expensive, but they're really not when you look at the whole scheme of things. If you limited yourself to all-season tires, they would be very ineffective once tread depth begins to lower past the 1/2 point. You'd probably have to replace them once winter comes around with a new set of all-season tires, effectively wasting a perfectly good tire just because it won't handle safely in the winter. With a winter tire, you can hold onto your all-season tires and put them back on in the spring, allowing you to get the full tread life out of them. You also have a much safer and more confident tire for the winter, and won't be wearing out your all-season tires during the period when the winter tires are on. In addition, you'll be keeping your LTZ wheels from getting damaged by debris or salt. When you really think about it, it makes a whole lot of sense. It's just the initial cost that's a bit of an inconvenience.


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## RAW2U (Jul 31, 2012)

sciphi said:


> Get a set of Nokian WR-G2's. Those are truly a "jack of all trades" tire that are rated as a snow tire, yet can be run year-round. They do very well in the snow/wet, and handle well in the summer too.
> 
> SE PA gets more chilly than snowy, at least per my relatives and friends in Newtown and King of Prussia. Sounds like the WR-G2's would be right up your alley as a true year-round tire.






























I agree NOKIAN are AWESOME tires.Living on the west coast normally wet coast.Lots of rain and winter we can have the odd snow storm run threw.But the kicker is ICE.We can have rain , ice and snow all in one day then 70 above the next day.Then run the weather again.
This snow storm we had just installed the Nokians on our 2000 caravan.They are still going 4yrs later and I never switch tires.Google finds people love them and these are the only TRUE all season tire I have ever had or installed.

I have had friends install the Firestones and switch to the Nokians.The downer here in Canada is Kal Tire has the rights to Canada for Nokian.So open your wallet for them.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

RAW2U said:


> I agree NOKIAN are AWESOME tires.Living on the west coast normally wet coast.Lots of rain and winter we can have the odd snow storm run threw.But the kicker is ICE.We can have rain , ice and snow all in one day then 70 above the next day.Then run the weather again.
> This snow storm we had just installed the Nokians on our 2000 caravan.They are still going 4yrs later and I never switch tires.Google finds people love them and these are the only TRUE all season tire I have ever had or installed.
> 
> I have had friends install the Firestones and switch to the Nokians.The downer here in Canada is Kal Tire has the rights to Canada for Nokian.So open your wallet for them.


I'm not doubting that they're a great all season tire, but I have an extremely difficult time believing that, in snow and ice, they would be superior to a purpose-built snow and ice tire. The tread compound on a dedicated snow tire is so soft that it wouldn't last you more than 10k miles if used year-round. It's impossible to have both a snow tire and a summer tire in one due to the need for a completely different tread compound in both environments. Something that does both will not do both well. 

Would they be "good enough" for the OP? I guess that depends on what he's looking for and what kind of environments he'll be driving in. I ran M/S rated all season tires in Chicago for a while and I got around without any problems, but after trying out the Blizzaks and realizing I could prolong the life of my all seasons, I saw no point to getting a better all-season tire.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

There are some great all season tires out there now, but nothing beats a true snow tire. I just can't see shelling out money for a second set of tires & rims just to get better ice traction. Then I have to store 4 rims & tires year round, and also swap them out every spring & fall. 

I think its better to feel the limited traction conditions sooner(at slower speeds), with snow tires I won't notice how bad it is & when the tire does let loose I'm more than likely going way to fast for conditions & probably going off road anyway. 

I have driven thousands of miles in the winter & after counting just as many thousands of idiot drivers in the ditch it really boils down to this..... snow tires, 4X4 give drivers a sense that they don't need to slow down. Reality is even if you have the best tires & 4x4 the road is still full of idiot drivers just wanting to plow into you or loose control in front of you causing you to get stuck or worse.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Slowing down has the added benefit of getting way better MPG even in the dead of winter. In my last car(a 2004 cavalier, automatic) one trip I took was 600miles of 40-45mph driving because of 10inches of snow on the road. when I filled the tank I got 44mpg(hand calculated), that car window sticker was 31MPG highway. Can only imagine what the cruze can do in those conditions, I bet I can get 50+ MPG with my automatic.


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## cruzers (Dec 13, 2010)

Your cheapest snow tire, is better than your most expensive all-season tire.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Xtreme, take it for what you will, but Consumer Reports considers the WR-G2 a snow tire because it's labeled with the mountain and snowflake symbol. Nokian also considers the WR-G2 a snow tire. Thing is, it can also go year-round without dying in the summer like dedicated snows do. 

Look it up.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

spacedout said:


> There are some great all season tires out there now, but nothing beats a true snow tire. I just can't see shelling out money for a second set of tires & rims just to get better ice traction. Then I have to store 4 rims & tires year round, and also swap them out every spring & fall.
> 
> I think its better to feel the limited traction conditions sooner(at slower speeds), with snow tires I won't notice how bad it is & when the tire does let loose I'm more than likely going way to fast for conditions & probably going off road anyway.
> 
> I have driven thousands of miles in the winter & after counting just as many thousands of idiot drivers in the ditch it really boils down to this..... snow tires, 4X4 give drivers a sense that they don't need to slow down. Reality is even if you have the best tires & 4x4 the road is still full of idiot drivers just wanting to plow into you or loose control in front of you causing you to get stuck or worse.


Snow tires don't empower you to push your limits. They greatly increase your traction and safety when you are forced to. 

I've seen a gust of wind blow every single car on my half of the highway and cause them to temporarily lose control, except mine. It's all about unexpected circumstances. An all season tire doesn't stand a chance against ice. Might as well be driving on ice skates. 

On a side note 4x4 to me is a joke. It helps you get your car moving, but does nothing for stopping and cornering traction. I laugh when people tell me they need 4 wheel drive in the snow. You're always going to be at the mercy of your tires.

I forgot about the storage issue. I have a large storage barn behind the house where I keep stuff like this. Someone who lives in an apartment might need to find a relative who would be willing to store them in a basement or something.

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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

If you want to save some money you can try the General Altimax Arctic. I got mine last year on sale at Walmart for $78 each mounted.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> Xtreme, take it for what you will, but Consumer Reports considers the WR-G2 a snow tire because it's labeled with the mountain and snowflake symbol. Nokian also considers the WR-G2 a snow tire. Thing is, it can also go year-round without dying in the summer like dedicated snows do.
> 
> Look it up.


I looked it up last night, and it looks like a dedicated northern climate tire where snow is expected for a great portion of the year. What's the expected tread life on a pair of these? Something that can do well in snow needs a softer rubber, and something that can wear well in the summer needs a harder rubber. Something will have to give...

I'll admit, I know very little about them, so I can't confidently recommend against them, but what I do know about tires in general makes me greatly question their effectiveness compared to a dedicated snow tire or a general all season tire. 

Time to do more research...

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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

OK folks - AWD and 4 wheel drive simply mean you can get stuck in more inaccessible places.

I agree with XR that dedicated snow tires such as the Bridgestone Blizzaks are the way to go in areas that have a lot of snow. For most of us, however, a good all season tire is more than sufficient.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Might be worth mentioning that Farmer's almanac is predicting snow early this year...as in, late October. 

Anyone want to sell me a set of steel LS rims?

Obermd, you'd be singing a different tune if you tried driving my Bonneville 2 years ago. 75% tread left on a set of Kumho ASX tires and the car was downright frightening to drive in slushy snow. The back end would slide out at 10mph taking turns in residential areas. It was one if the big reasons I sold the car a few months later. Snow tires for 18" rims are expensive, and small rims don't fit over GXP brakes. 

If you do run all seasons in a snowy area, make sure you have the M/S or M+S (mud and snow) rating on the sidewall. 

Sorry if it sounds like I'm arguing with anyone. That's not my intent. Just adding to things I said earlier.

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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Not all "all-season" tires are equal in the snow. Some are junk, while others are quite good for all-seasons. A basic snow tire will out-perform the best all-season on snow. 

Problem is, SE PA often gets wet and slush instead of deep snow. Yeah, surprises do happen. For the most part, it'll be cold and slushy instead of cold and snowy. I'd look for a tire that works well on wet, cold pavement. That's a more performance-oriented snow tire. 

Although for $630+shipping, a set of General Altimax Arctics mounted/balanced sure looks tempting as a snow tire. And, it's the same price as a set of WR-G2's. 

New recommendation: If you have the space to store them, get the Altimax Arctics mounted on steel wheels. It's the same price as what I recommended earlier.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Obermd, you'd be singing a different tune if you tried driving my Bonneville 2 years ago. 75% tread left on a set of Kumho ASX tires and the car was downright frightening to drive in slushy snow. The back end would slide out at 10mph taking turns in residential areas. It was one if the big reasons I sold the car a few months later. Snow tires for 18" rims are expensive, and small rims don't fit over GXP brakes.
> 
> If you do run all seasons in a snowy area, make sure you have the M/S or M+S (mud and snow) rating on the sidewall.


There are some cars that should simply be parked from Labor Day to Memorial Day. Your Bonneville may have been one of them.

+1 for the M+S rating as a minimum rating for winter driving. In addition - no less than 4/32" of an inch in the winter.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> Not all "all-season" tires are equal in the snow. Some are junk, while others are quite good for all-seasons. A basic snow tire will out-perform the best all-season on snow.
> 
> Problem is, SE PA often gets wet and slush instead of deep snow. Yeah, surprises do happen. For the most part, it'll be cold and slushy instead of cold and snowy. I'd look for a tire that works well on wet, cold pavement. That's a more performance-oriented snow tire.
> 
> ...


Out here, it's either slush, or hard packed snow. Neither are great for all season tires. I personally think that a Blizzak or equivalent tire rated for ice and light/moderate snow would be better than a Winterforce or equivalent tire rated for deep snow. The heavy snow tires don't seem to do as well on ice and slush.

I second your recommendation for winter tires on steelies and keeping one set in storage when the other isn't being used. 

I'm going to look at those Altimax Arctics as I need something for the Cruze this winter. My Blizzaks are 225/60/16 which might be too big for the Cruze. Still not decided on that yet.

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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

I saw a car today with an early 2013 inspection sticker that had completely bald front tires. Yeah, those tires were likely the legal 2/32" at the inspection 6 months ago. I hope the owner puts new tires on before winter hits. Just the thing to stop quickly in inclement weather thanks to snow tires, only for somebody like that with Baldini NoTreads to slide on by.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> I saw a car today with an early 2013 inspection sticker that had completely bald front tires. Yeah, those tires were likely the legal 2/32" at the inspection 6 months ago. I hope the owner puts new tires on before winter hits. Just the thing to stop quickly in inclement weather thanks to snow tires, only for somebody like that with Baldini NoTreads to slide on by.


That's one reason I promote snow tires so heavily. It's not just about your own stopping and turning traction and safety, but about your ability to respond to idiots like those when they lose control of their car.


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## maybecruze (Aug 29, 2012)

I have Pirelli Winter Carving on my Civic. They are excellent in snow and slush, are just as quiet if not a bit quieter than my Michelin Hydroedge summer tires. Treadwear has been great - I have put about 20,000 km on them and there is still lots of tread. Not overly expensive either. Pirelli Winter Carving


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

What about the steel rims? I've been having a hard time finding a set of rims at a decent price. I think the ones you generally find online are chinese knock offs. I'd prefer to have something better...any suggestions?


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Downingtown, I have relatives that live there. Cool, lol.

My two cents, being a PA resident as well, we're supposed to get hit pretty hard this winter, from what I hear. My suggestion, no need for wheel upgrades, and as long as you are being cautious while driving in snow(as anyone SHOULD be), our cars will handle just fine with the excessive weight.

4 snow tires are NOT neccesary, just the drive wheels(front two). Being a PA resident, I'm sure you already know how to handle snow.. and I'm sure you'll do just fine. 

I'm actually anxious for my Cruze's first winter, I'm excited to see how well it handles the snow.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MetallicaMatt said:


> What about the steel rims? I've been having a hard time finding a set of rims at a decent price. I think the ones you generally find online are chinese knock offs. I'd prefer to have something better...any suggestions?


Steel rims are all you need for the winter. It's senseless to expose a nicely finished set of wheels to the salt, corrosion, and potential road debris and damage you'd run into otherwise. This is one very good reason not to run your stock alloys during the winter. 



OnlyTaurus said:


> Downingtown, I have relatives that live there. Cool, lol.
> 
> My two cents, being a PA resident as well, we're supposed to get hit pretty hard this winter, from what I hear. My suggestion, no need for wheel upgrades, and as long as you are being cautious while driving in snow(as anyone SHOULD be), our cars will handle just fine with the excessive weight.
> 
> ...


Running snow tires on only the drive wheels is a dangerous idea. The reason for this is that snow tires are not intended only to improve your traction to start moving, but to get you traction when you need to stop, to keep you planted on the road when you hit an ice patch, and to keep you from losing control while turning. If you have excellent traction on the front and terrible traction on the rear, the moment you take a turn based on your traction on the front, you have a very high chance of sliding the rear end out and losing control. 

I can't stress enough, tires are not just about your own ability to drive, but your ability to respond to everyone else's *in*ability to drive, and your ability to perform evasive maneuvers in case of an emergency (patch of ice, gust of wind, animal crossing the road) without crashing your car into a tree, pole, or ditch.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Steel rims are all you need for the winter. It's senseless to expose a nicely finished set of wheels to the salt, corrosion, and potential road debris and damage you'd run into otherwise. This is one very good reason not to run your stock alloys during the winter.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh I understand you completely, I just have always done fine with just 2. Whether I have 2, 4, or even 0 snow tires installed, I still keep my distances from everything and everyone, on top of driving much slower than I typically would. I've never had troubles in the rear with stopping or 'fishtailing' really.

Then again, this is my first brand new car, and I may slap on 4 just to be extra safe. I haven't even had a winter with mine just yet, so I'm anxious to see how it performs.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

OnlyTaurus said:


> I'm actually anxious for my Cruze's first winter, I'm excited to see how well it handles the snow.


The 1.4 has no trouble making the OEM tires lose traction on cold, snowy ground. The traction control also makes getting up a snow-covered hill impossible unless it's turned off. Learn the location of the off button, it might come in handy. And, the car predictably understeers with the stability control on. With it off, given enough grip, it'll oversteer in a split-second. Sometimes it's predictable, other times it's not. 

Comparing apples to sushi, but our Fit's OEM Bridgestones were horrid in the snow. The car wasn't safe past 35 mph on those in any amount of frozen precipitation. A set of Blizzak LM 25's made it predictable and capable in the snow.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

After reading this thread I am so glad we tend to get dry snow in Denver. The trick here is to not be on the road during the first real storm of the season. That's the storm that all the 4-wheel drive idiots will end up off the road, which by itself is a good thing. Unfortunately some of them manage to take other drivers out with them.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

sciphi said:


> The 1.4 has no trouble making the OEM tires lose traction on cold, snowy ground. The traction control also makes getting up a snow-covered hill impossible unless it's turned off. Learn the location of the off button, it might come in handy. And, the car predictably understeers with the stability control on. With it off, given enough grip, it'll oversteer in a split-second. Sometimes it's predictable, other times it's not.
> 
> Comparing apples to sushi, but our Fit's OEM Bridgestones were horrid in the snow. The car wasn't safe past 35 mph on those in any amount of frozen precipitation. A set of Blizzak LM 25's made it predictable and capable in the snow.


Thanks for the heads up, I will remember to try this.

How would you disable Stabilitrak? Fuse? I've noticed even if traction is off, the computer will still attempt to adjust you if it senses out of whack wheel speeds.


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## RAW2U (Jul 31, 2012)

2010 USA Cars sliding and crashing down icy hill in the snow! - YouTube
Collision on Ice Covered Overpass on Video - YouTube
Winter Car Bowling - YouTube
This is what happens when it snows in Seattle - YouTube

Some cheap entertainment. 
Here on the west coast is ever changing weather in the winter.We do not get lots of snow normally.The pics i posted above we have not had snow like that for 3years now.we are lucky if we get 4-6 inches and if it stays around for a week off and on we are lucky.Just enough for the kids to get a few runs in.Yet 1hr from our door we can drive threw winter conditions up to 3 local mountains.
Grouse Mountain - The Peak of Vancouver
Latest News At Cypress Mountain | Cypress Mountain
DiscoverWhistler.ca - Whistler British Columbia Canada, Hotels, Reservations, Real Estate, Condos
The trick here in the west coast is the ICE.snow comes and goes little by little but the warm days then freezing at night is the worst.Day after day during the winter months here we fight the ice.Then throw in our elevation changes.To drive 10 miles around the lower mainland we can go up and down from sea level to 800-1500 ft back down to sea level.Making hills a skating rink along with intersections.
Snow tires for us here help, but rather ICE designed tires are more practical for our area.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OnlyTaurus said:


> Oh I understand you completely, I just have always done fine with just 2. Whether I have 2, 4, or even 0 snow tires installed, I still keep my distances from everything and everyone, on top of driving much slower than I typically would. I've never had troubles in the rear with stopping or 'fishtailing' really.
> 
> Then again, this is my first brand new car, and I may slap on 4 just to be extra safe. I haven't even had a winter with mine just yet, so I'm anxious to see how it performs.


My Cruze did "ok" in the light snow we had around here. You could tell the tires liked to break loose very easily, but the ABS and stability control helped, but that was with "brand new" tires. In any amount of moderate or heavy snow, I took the Regal out instead, which I put the Blizzaks on immediately after the first snowfall hits. 

You may have had decent experiences, but as I said, it's not sane and careful driving that creates the potential for disaster. It's that huge gust of wind when you're driving 45mph on hard packed snow, or that guy in front of you who lost control and is suddenly facing your direction. I've had it happen more times than I've been able to count. My ability to stop before him meant the difference between my car being totaled and my getting home safely that night. 

If I was the only one on the road, I'd run all-season tires in the winter and not think twice, but people seem to be getting more and more stupid every year when it snows. It's particularly worse where I live, where the roads are more populated.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Very true, all of what you said. I'm probably just going to throw 4 snowies and be a little more cautious this year, for the reasons I've stated, and the fact that starting October, I'll be traveling to Pittsburgh and back a few nights a week(furthering education, again.. lol).


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

OnlyTaurus said:


> Thanks for the heads up, I will remember to try this.
> 
> How would you disable Stabilitrak? Fuse? I've noticed even if traction is off, the computer will still attempt to adjust you if it senses out of whack wheel speeds.


Hold the traction control button for 5 seconds. That will turn off Stabilitrak. Unlike other GM cars, the on/off switch seems to really turn off the TC and Stabilitrak. I took the car off the public roads to determine what it would do with the electro-nannies disabled. 

It's possible to have Stabilitrak do some autonomous braking even with the traction control off when the yaw sensors sense sideways movement. 

I'd definitely take the car to a parking lot and do some donuts once the first snow falls.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

sciphi said:


> Hold the traction control button for 5 seconds. That will turn off Stabilitrak. Unlike other GM cars, the on/off switch seems to really turn off the TC and Stabilitrak. I took the car off the public roads to determine what it would do with the electro-nannies disabled.
> 
> It's possible to have Stabilitrak do some autonomous braking even with the traction control off when the yaw sensors sense sideways movement.
> 
> I'd definitely take the car to a parking lot and do some donuts once the first snow falls.


Good info Sciphi, thank you kindly. :goodjob:


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I posted in another thread, and figured it would be relevant here as well:



> Your current tires are rated for 90k miles. Without a doubt, that's a high mileage tire. It achieves this with a harder rubber compound that doesn't wear as easily. If you want better snow traction in an all-season tire, you need a higher performance all-season tire that will probably get about half the amount of mileage.
> 
> Say your all season tires are $150 apiece after installation, and your higher mileage Michelins are $200 apiece after installation. A good set of snow tires will run you $125 apiece after installation.
> 
> ...


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Interesting..

Good analogy nonetheless. It seems I just may be looking for a set of steelies over the next 4-6 weeks.

As always, nice work Andrei.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Out here, it's either slush, or hard packed snow. Neither are great for all season tires. I personally think that a Blizzak or equivalent tire rated for ice and light/moderate snow would be better than a Winterforce or equivalent tire rated for deep snow. The heavy snow tires don't seem to do as well on ice and slush.
> 
> I second your recommendation for winter tires on steelies and keeping one set in storage when the other isn't being used.
> 
> I'm going to look at those Altimax Arctics as I need something for the Cruze this winter. My Blizzaks are 225/60/16 which might be too big for the Cruze. Still not decided on that yet.


Gotta agree that in true winter climes, nothing beats 4 snow tires.

I had the same problem last winter trying to decide what to do for winter rims. I ended up getting steel rims right from my local Chevy dealer parts counter for not much more than what it would cost from gmpartsdirect. 

My thread here http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/12-wheels-tires-suspension/5013-needing-rims-snows-my-cruze-2.html, but I'll save you the trouble of reading the whole thing and just cut and paste the last post...

"Just updating what I'm finding out about winter rims. I printed out the order sheet from gmpartsdirect for 4 steel rims (part# 13259234 and price $39.35 ea.) and 4 sensors (part# 20922900 and price $34.99 ea.), then brought the sheet to the local Chevy dealer while I was getting some warranty work done to see if they could match the price. Can't hurt to ask, right? Well, they got closer than I thought they would. I do realize they need to make a profit. 

Anyway, Chevy quoted me $49.66 for rims and $44.16 for sensors, so that's about $80 more total than gmpartsdirect but there's no shipping charge (about $75 for 4 rims and sensors) and you can probably get the parts within a day or so. You will have local taxes to pay though, depending on where you live. States like NH that have no state sales tax could potentially get their parts for about the same as gmpartsdirect without waiting 10 days for shipping.

I also mentioned at the parts counter at Chevy that I already had some winter tires from my Impala (225/60 16's) that I was considering using on the Cruze (stock 215/60 16's). He cautioned me that since everything speed related is electronic, it could cause an issue with braking and handling, since all that stuff is calibrated for proper sized tires and number of rotations of the wheels (ABS, stability, traction, odometer). Different sized tires could throw that off. He suggested I check with the service department to be sure, but at this point I think I'll just take the 215/60 16's off the Taurus and put them on the Cruze's winter rims, and throw the 225's on the Taurus since the Taurus is a pretty basic car and shouldn't care."


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## BerettaZ (Jul 1, 2012)

Had to chime in here...
Xtreme is right on the money.
I got my first set of Blizzaks in the mid 90s on a set of steelies for my old Cavy Z-24. Since then I've had a total of 7 sets of winter tires on various cars here in Cleveland, Ohio. 5 of those have been Blizzaks, which have all been fantastic in the snow and ice. I have a set of Nokians on my Odyssey. They do trade off a little bit of winter performance for longer tread life. The Michelin X-Ice tires I tried have been the disappointment overall...I wouldn't purchase those again.
Other points:

1. Steelies are the best way to go, since nicer rims are more likely to get beat up in the winter. If you insist on aluminum wheels, stay away from the cheapies...the cheap Elbrus rims I put on my wife's Vue had oxidized clearcoat after just 2 winters.
2. Go with the smallest rim you can put on the car. Smaller diameter rim=taller/narrower tire, which is best for snow traction.
3. Snow tires have made AWD unnecessary for me. I would MUCH rather have the improved traction when turning and stopping from the tires that AWD doesn't provide.
4. As far as cost, i look at it as buying the car's second set of tires up front. The few extra dollars for rims (and a decent floor jack for the switchovers) is money very well spent.
5. You are much more likely to keep your nice rims looking nice-no salt, no sliding into curbs, etc...
6. Snow tires + FWD + manual transmissions=winter driving fun :th_coolio:

Once you have a dedicated set of winter tires/rims during a snowy/icy winter, you will never be without them.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

UpstateNYBill said:


> Gotta agree that in true winter climes, nothing beats 4 snow tires.
> 
> I had the same problem last winter trying to decide what to do for winter rims. I ended up getting steel rims right from my local Chevy dealer parts counter for not much more than what it would cost from gmpartsdirect.
> 
> ...


Are the TPMS sensors absolutely necessary?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

No, the TPMS sensors are not necessary. From what I have been told, you will have the TPMS idiot light lit up on your dash though, same as what you would get if you rotated your tires and didn't do the re-learn procedure.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

UpstateNYBill said:


> No, the TPMS sensors are not necessary. From what I have been told, you will have the TPMS idiot light lit up on your dash though, same as what you would get if you rotated your tires and didn't do the re-learn procedure.


I've been rotating my tires regularly and haven't had an issue. I just don't see $200 being worth knowing what my tire pressure is just for a season. You did refer to the price for each, right?


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## BerettaZ (Jul 1, 2012)

I put the sensors on the winter set for my wife's vehicle, but I've gone without. In my Cobalt, the DIC told me that the TPMS had issues at start up that I could clear off the screen, but the TPMS light would stay lit all winter. Mildly annoying, but I got used to it pretty quick. 
I assume the Cruze will be the same way.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

Yes. The sensors are not cheap. I went with them because I spend up to 5 hours in the car every day for work.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

BerettaZ said:


> I put the sensors on the winter set for my wife's vehicle, but I've gone without. In my Cobalt, the DIC told me that the TPMS had issues at start up that I could clear off the screen, but the TPMS light will stay lit all winter. Mildly annoying, but I get used to it pretty quick.


If I can't find a set of used steelies with TPMS already on them, I think I'll just deal with it. Do you know if there's any TPMS transmitter out there for the Cruze that fakes the signal?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

I just googled "TPMS 20922900" and came up with a seller on eBay selling them for $32 each with free shipping. At least it's cheaper than what I paid in January.


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## mabzmuzik (Jul 19, 2012)

****. I will be using my steelies with no TPMS for the winter season here in Illinois. **** this is the first car I had that has this sensor. I can tell if I have a flat.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

I've heard the TPMS sensors aren't necessary. I got them for the Cruze, and don't have them for the Fit. It's sure nice to check the tire pressure from the dash when it's 10*F outside. I was concerned about possible issues with the car's electronics. Looks like it'll set the dummy light on the dash the whole winter, just like our Fit does.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> I've heard the TPMS sensors aren't necessary. I got them for the Cruze, and don't have them for the Fit. It's sure nice to check the tire pressure from the dash when it's 10*F outside. I was concerned about possible issues with the car's electronics. Looks like it'll set the dummy light on the dash the whole winter, just like our Fit does.


Shouldn't be much of an issue then. I don't feel bad about not using them. 

Check out this joker:







1) CHEVY CHEVROLET CRUZE STOCK 16 STEEL WHEEL RIM 5474 5X105 | eBay

I offered him $20 a wheel, making it $36 shipped each. GMPartsdirect is $51 shipped. I wonder of he'll accept. LOL.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

LOL. For $70 per wheel, one can get a set of cheap alloys. I got a set of cheap generic 16" 5-spoke alloys from DTD last year for winter wheels that weren't much more than that. They weighed 3-4 lbs a corner more than the OEM Eco wheels, IIRC, so I didn't feel like the car was dragging boat anchors around all winter.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

sciphi said:


> LOL. For $70 per wheel, one can get a set of cheap alloys. I got a set of cheap generic 16" 5-spoke alloys from DTD last year for winter wheels that weren't much more than that. They weighed 3-4 lbs a corner more than the OEM Eco wheels, IIRC, so I didn't feel like the car was dragging boat anchors around all winter.


How much do the steel rims weigh?


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## elegant (Jan 6, 2011)

I am getting Michelin X-Ice X-13's for my extra set of 17" Cruze rims. As they are new this fall, there are no reviews. However, the reviews of last seasons X-12's were very, very positive. Also, the X-13's weigh less than almost all other true snow tires with the mountain snowflake ratings, at only 22 lbs.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> How much do the steel rims weigh?


I'm not sure. I'd guess heavier than the Eco wheels. FWIW, the 15" steel wheels on my LeSabre were heavy beasts, heavier by far than either set of alloys. 

Maybe somebody can drag the scale out to the garage and weigh the LS rim/tire?


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

I just placed one steel rim with mounted snow tire on the digital bathroom scale and it weighed 45.5 lbs. (Accuracy of scale not guaranteed)


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

My issue has been trying to find rims (aluminum or steel) for sale, for a decent price.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MetallicaMatt said:


> My issue has been trying to find rims (aluminum or steel) for sale, for a decent price.


I've run into the same issue here. I may end up having to just buy the steelies new from gmpartsdirect for ~$50 apiece shipped.

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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

My dealer quoted me (with none GM wheels because he said the price was "insane") ~$1000 for Blizzacks, steelies with hub caps. Add another $200 if I wanted TPMS.

In the past I have been able to just piece together everything myself, might do that again. What is the PN for the wheels on gmpartsdirect? What about lug nuts, I'll be needed those as well, since I don't want to use my LTZ ones.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

MetallicaMatt said:


> My dealer quoted me (with none GM wheels because he said the price was "insane") ~$1000 for Blizzacks, steelies with hub caps. Add another $200 if I wanted TPMS.
> 
> In the past I have been able to just piece together everything myself, might do that again. What is the PN for the wheels on gmpartsdirect? What about lug nuts, I'll be needed those as well, since I don't want to use my LTZ ones.


Steel rims (part# 13259234) and TPMS sensor (part# 20922900).


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## RAW2U (Jul 31, 2012)

Not sure but 4 of each of these plus tires could not be $1000.00
GM Parts Direct: 13259234 - WHEEL
*[h=2]13259234 - WHEEL $38.96[/h]**[h=2]20922900 - SENSOR $34.6[/h]*


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

It's possible to spend $1000+ on wheels and snows. I did that with a top-shelf setup consisting of 16" alloys that resemble OEM 5-spokes, TPMS sensors, and Nokian snow tires. Those snows are quieter and better-riding than the OEM Goodyears! And do they ever work well when the road disappears under the white stuff. I could have purchased cheaper tires and omitted the TPMS sensors. I'm happy with what I got and how well it all works.


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## RAW2U (Jul 31, 2012)

Ya ya can spend 20 to $30,000 on tires and rims depends on your pocket:th_coolio:
I was rather pointing out rims and sensors for a good deal.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

When you start to add things up, $1000 is about normal. I started adding up what it should cost me to buy everything individually:
Tires - Blizzak WS70 @ $101.71/each - Total of $407
Rims - $52/each - Total of $20
TPMS - $32/each - Total of $128 (optional but I'm going with them this time around)
Install rims/tires - $15-20/each? - Total $100 - high side
For a grand total of $843. This is leaving out some tax I think, and is not including the new lug nuts I'll need or any hub caps.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Keep in mind, there are deals all over the place. For example, firestone will have a buy 3 get one free sale, and if you throw it on a Firestone credit card, you get an additional 5% or 10% discount. If you don't need TPMS, you can also shave that price a bit.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I crunched some numbers earlier to aid in my decision making process. 

I've been considering one of two tires; either the Bridgestone Blizzak, or the General Altimax Arctic. Here are the numbers I came up with. 

Altimax Arctic Purchased from TireRack:
Tires: $93 per, $418 total
Rims: $69 per, $276 total
Total plus shipping: $736
Note: no tax applied due to ordering from out of state

Blizzak Purchased from TireRack:
Tires: $116 per, $464 total
Rims: $69 per, $276 total
Total plus shipping: $827
Note: no tax applied due to ordering from out of state

Blizzak Purchased from Local Firestone:
Tires: $124 per, $496 total
Rims: $197 shipped from gmpartsdirect
Total plus 8% tax, minus 5% discount for using firestone card: $775

Then I realized I have a set of 225/60/16 Blizzak tires on the rims that usually go on the Regal, and I won't be driving the Regal in the winter. The difference in diameter is .3" greater over the 215/60/16 Blizzak tire. I'll probably throw those on the Cruze, but figured the above numbers might be useful for someone.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Not to change the subject, but heres a good question I thought.

What should pressures be with snow tires? Granted many of us are running 50 right now.

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OnlyTaurus said:


> Not to change the subject, but heres a good question I thought.
> 
> What should pressures be with snow tires? Granted many of us are running 50 right now.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.Com Free App


That's actually a really good question. I believe somewhere in the 30s would be appropriate on snow tires, since you want as much surface contact as possible on unstable surfaces like packed snow.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

That's what I was thinking, until I was contemplating this..

Its known that putting 50 in the tires makes them stiffer for better handling and longer wear. Shouldn't that be the case for snow tires too? Especially since the concept of the added 'stiffness' could essentially help 'cut' through snow and ice better?

Ultimately, tire pressures are rated for comfort nowadays. Adding extra pressure stiffens the tire, thus causing you to feel road imperfections easier. With the engineering behind radial tires now, theres really no 'overimflation' issues, compared to the old bias-plies. Inflating to 45+ might take the smallest tread off the road, but like I said, the added stiffness should benefit even greater. 

Just a thought 

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OnlyTaurus said:


> That's what I was thinking, until I was contemplating this..
> 
> Its known that putting 50 in the tires makes them stiffer for better handling and longer wear. Shouldn't that be the case for snow tires too? Especially since the concept of the added 'stiffness' could essentially help 'cut' through snow and ice better?
> 
> ...


I guess it really depends on the kind of snow you're on. Sometimes, you can't cut through the snow. Around here, it's either slush, or hard packed snow, but rarely is it deep snow that you need to cut through. On that note, you'd want more narrow tires, not higher inflated tires, in order to cut through snow. If you had the option, you could run 205 wide tires instead of 215s or 225s to dig a bit better. 

The truth here is that if you're in need of snow tires for ice and snow traction, added stiffness and cornering ability isn't going to be necessary. You simply aren't pushing your car to any limits that would merit that additional handling ability. Your car will handle like a pig no matter what because of the softness of the rubber.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I guess it really depends on the kind of snow you're on. Sometimes, you can't cut through the snow. Around here, it's either slush, or hard packed snow, but rarely is it deep snow that you need to cut through. On that note, you'd want more narrow tires, not higher inflated tires, in order to cut through snow. If you had the option, you could run 205 wide tires instead of 215s or 225s to dig a bit better.
> 
> The truth here is that if you're in need of snow tires for ice and snow traction, added stiffness and cornering ability isn't going to be necessary. You simply aren't pushing your car to any limits that would merit that additional handling ability. Your car will handle like a pig no matter what because of the softness of the rubber.


Noted, thanks for the input.

I'm actualy going to test this after a good day of snow. I'm curious to see where it will lead.

I wasn't concerned about pushing the car to its limits, I was implying that the the tires could dig into the snow better over-inflated, since camber is compromised on cornering, but in a good way. The corners of the tires sustains more pressure and contact on cornering, say, the LF inside and the RF outside when turning right.

That being said, I'm curious if oveinflating the tires could help give those tire corners more of a 'knife' effect in the snow, which would GREATLY improve cornering in snow.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OnlyTaurus said:


> Noted, thanks for the input.
> 
> I'm actualy going to test this after a good day of snow. I'm curious to see where it will lead.
> 
> ...


You bring up some very good points. I'm looking forward to seeing what you discover through your testing. In the meantime, I'll see what research I can dig up on the topic.

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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Excellent, remind me if you come across something that would clarify this.

Unfortunately, we both, among many others, still have a couple months 'til we see snow, but I am anxious for this test regardless. It would be 'ground-breaking' if this test could be confirmed. Could very well help millions that travel in snow every year.. thus hopefully cutting winter accidents in half, if not more.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OnlyTaurus said:


> Excellent, remind me if you come across something that would clarify this.
> 
> Unfortunately, we both, among many others, still have a couple months 'til we see snow, but I am anxious for this test regardless. It would be 'ground-breaking' if this test could be confirmed. Could very well help millions that travel in snow every year.. thus hopefully cutting winter accidents in half, if not more.


Agreed.

I would recommend checking Farmer's Almanac. We're supposed to get snow as early as mid October in the lower lakes region. November and January are predicted to be the snowiest months. 

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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

Why not contact the tire manufacturer?


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## Skraeling (May 30, 2012)

Run general altimax arctics. Very affordable and quiet riding. Handling is good on dry and wet as well

An enthusiast favorite among my Subaru crowd.

Handle ice with ease as well.


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Agreed.
> 
> I would recommend checking Farmer's Almanac. We're supposed to get snow as early as mid October in the lower lakes region. November and January are predicted to be the snowiest months.
> 
> Sent from my Bulletproof_Doubleshot using AutoGuide.Com Free App


Yup, I've been following it as well, a snowy Halloween. Different to say the least, considering its been in the 70's til Thanksgivng for the past 4-5 years(atleast here), lol. That why I feel it's going to be a brutal one this year especially, we are overdue for a TRUE winter.



Skraeling said:


> Run general altimax arctics. Very affordable and quiet riding. Handling is good on dry and wet as well
> 
> An enthusiast favorite among my Subaru crowd.
> 
> Handle ice with ease as well.


Yes, I'm considering those actually. If I decide on 4 snow tires, I'm going to give those a shot. Good reviews and $400 for 4 shipped to my door. I'm also lookin into Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice from Sears.com. $127/tire plus up to $160 rebate when you buy 4. Not sure how much of a rebate you get, but I may try the Goodyears if I just stick with snows in the front.



MetallicaMatt said:


> Why not contact the tire manufacturer?


When it comes to the conversation me and Xtreme just had for a few posts, not all tire companies focus on the in-depth 'tricks' you can accomplish with tires. To be honest, I've never seen anyone else considering over-inflating snow tires to test 'extra' traction. I'm just going to personally test it. Actions speak louder than wrds, my friend.


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## silverls (Nov 12, 2011)

Snow Tires are a must for anyone above like, VIrginia. lol. I see a lot of people in VA run all seasons all year long and do fine in the like 2 inches of snow all year that they get. Back in Pittsburgh PA however, we laugh at people who try that, then cuss them out because we have to deal with them sliding all over the road because we just got 8 inches in 2 hours and their tires cant grip anything. 

The Blizzak is THE snow tire in my mind. Have had them on a few vehicles and ALWAYS 4. They grip so well that when i would go to a parking lot to rip the e-brake in my honda's and my dad's Daewoo Lanos in the snow (DRIFTER LOL) I could get speed, rip the e-brake to slide out, and as soon as i let off the e-brake the back end would catch grip and i would straighten out without any finagling or skill needed. The car only slid if i made it slide, wonderful tires.

I can throw 2 cents in for the Nokian WR series as well. They do make a SNow and Ice tire in this series I cant pronounce it but it starts with an H and is about 20 letters long lol. My sister had these on a FWD 05 Vibe and they worked just as well as the blizzaks did in most cases. However they really were just a snow tire. THey did not grip well on dry land or warm rain so they were more of a hazard when it wasn't snowing. (You will have that in a super soft tread with lots of sipes.) 

Honestly, if you don't have to drive in the snow when it gets really bad out. Or don't plan to, then snow tires are not a good investment. But if you work at a job where you have to be there, 2 inches or 10. Then buy them. whether you have a 2wd, fwd,rwd, awd. It doesnt matter. you can have whatever drive you want but if the tires don't have grip, you just gonna spin.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

Xtreme - You wouldn't happen to know the Part Numbers for lug nuts and hub caps would you? I'm curious about the pricing on those as well.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MetallicaMatt said:


> Xtreme - You wouldn't happen to know the Part Numbers for lug nuts and hub caps would you? I'm curious about the pricing on those as well.


The lugnuts should be universal. I'll be installing some standard non-chrome ones on the steelies from an auto shop. Shouldn't be anything special. I don't know what the part number for wheel covers is.


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## Skraeling (May 30, 2012)

OnlyTaurus said:


> I may try the Goodyears if I just stick with snows in the front.


 Just NO. Do NOT, I say again do NOT just get TWO snow tires on the front. This is an easy way to become best friends with your neighborhood tow truck driver and emergency service personnel. it doesnt matter if your car is only fwd or rwd... NEVER do it.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Skraeling said:


> Just NO. Do NOT, I say again do NOT just get TWO snow tires on the front. This is an easy way to become best friends with your neighborhood tow truck driver.


Agreed. All 4 or none at all.


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## Beachernaut (Mar 27, 2012)

cruzers said:


> Your cheapest snow tire, is better than your most expensive all-season tire.


I heartily agree, but don't cheap out either. Get a good dedicated tire for the winter, I've heard good things about Blizzaks.

I have snow tires for several of my vehicles, some get studs also.


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## Skraeling (May 30, 2012)

studs are really not necessary.

[video]http://www.tirerack.com/a.jsp?a=EA5&url=/tires/tests/videoDisplay.jsp&ttid=123[/video]


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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

Skraeling said:


> Just NO. Do NOT, I say again do NOT just get TWO snow tires on the front. This is an easy way to become best friends with your neighborhood tow truck driver and emergency service personnel. it doesnt matter if your car is only fwd or rwd... NEVER do it.


I understand the consequences, don't get me wrong. However, in the 8 winters I've been driving in, some more brutal and snowy than usual, I have NEVER had an issue with just running snows on the driven wheels.

At the time, my financial situation sometimes wouldn't allow me to get 4 snow tires. So I had to deal with it, and I'm good with it.

Having 2 is better than none. And if anyone else is in a financial struggle, as I was, then you heard it from the guy that has been doing it for many years. Never had an accident or even 'fishtailed' with only running 2 snow tires. As long as you are careful, you'll be just fine.

If you can get 4, get them. Its going around that the North and Northeast States are to expect a harsh winter this year. So be preparred..


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## Beachernaut (Mar 27, 2012)

Skraeling said:


> studs are really not necessary.



Depends on the conditions. In the conditions we deal with here throughout the winter, studs are good insurance. On my Blazer with the snow plow it's mandatory. It all depends on how harsh your winters are. Many of the roads here will be snow packed/ice for months at a time. I don't mind spending extra and stud my tires. It's only like an extra $10.

The difference between a snow tire and a studded snow tire is about the same as the difference between a snow tire and an all season.

Either way, the driver makes all the difference in the world. This is what happens when you don't pay attention, I'm not sure what the stats are, but I'm willing to bet 80% of the drivers that slide off the road (not counting those in accidents caused by others) were talking on the phone, playing with the radio, or doing something besides keeping their attention on the road.

My daughter learned the hard way.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Beachernaut said:


> Depends on the conditions. In the conditions we deal with here throughout the winter, studs are good insurance. On my Blazer with the snow plow it's mandatory. It all depends on how harsh your winters are. Many of the roads here will be snow packed/ice for months at a time. I don't mind spending extra and stud my tires.
> 
> The difference between a snow tire and a studded snow tire is about the same as the difference between a snow tire and an all season.
> 
> ...


It is worth noting that not all states allow the use of studs on tires.


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## Beachernaut (Mar 27, 2012)

That's also a good point. Thanks XR.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

I emailed GMPartsdirect, requesting part numbers (mainly looking for lug nuts and hub caps) and they of course, wanted my VIN first. Well, since my LTZ didn't come with 16", I just went to Autotrader, found the VIN off of a 2011 LS for sale that had 16" with caps. (Hopefully the vin is correct). They replied with:
per VIN 1G1PC5SH9C7190634 supplied.
13259234 16" x 6.5" steel wheel, requires to order one per location needed.
22854866 tire pressure indicator sensor, requires to order one per location needed. *(Please note earlier in this thread that PN 20922900 was said to be the TPMS p/n???? - Which one is correct?)*
9594683 wheel nut, requires to order one per location needed. *- $3.71, is this one nut or 5?*
9594433 wheel nut cap (light argent), requires to order one per location needed. -*$3.04, not sure what this is, plastic cover for the lug nut perhaps?*
20934135 wheel trim cover, requires to order one per location needed. -*$51.87!! For a flipping hub cap?? 
*
When I went to the GM Stealership to get a quote (and to get PN's to look online) he said the hub cap came with lug nuts, but on the quote it didn't break down the individual part numbers, just a grand total...d'oh.

So now I'm not sure what to order, other than the steel rim works out consistant so far....


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## Mikeske (Jun 19, 2012)

I will not be driving the Cruze in the snow as that is what my Buick is for. Since I live in the part of the country that does not get much snow the Cruze and my wifes Caliber will remain parked when it snows. I will be using my 1998 Buick Park Avenue with studded snow tires on it if I have to drive in the snow. Since I live on a hill that has a 4% grade for a quarter mile studs are the only thing that will bite into the ice that ends up being packed down and since this is a private road it never gets plowed. We just toss some sand on it to get the ice to melt.


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## UpstateNYBill (Jan 14, 2012)

MetallicaMatt said:


> 22854866 tire pressure indicator sensor, requires to order one per location needed. *(Please note earlier in this thread that PN 20922900 was said to be the TPMS p/n???? - Which one is correct?)*


*20922900**[SIZE=+1]*[/SIZE]This part has been replaced by a new part number. The new part number will be used if you add this part to your cart.* Same part, same price. 22854866 is the updated part number according to gmpartsdirect.



MetallicaMatt said:


> 20934135 wheel trim cover, requires to order one per location needed. -*$51.87!! For a flipping hub cap??
> *
> When I went to the GM Stealership to get a quote (and to get PN's to look online) he said the hub cap came with lug nuts, but on the quote it didn't break down the individual part numbers, just a grand total...d'oh.
> 
> So now I'm not sure what to order, other than the steel rim works out consistant so far....


Yeah, over $50 for a hubcap is too expensive for my taste for spare wheels, which is why I am going without. I may try NAPA or where ever for a cap just for the axles once I actually drag out the snows.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

I was going to order the lug nuts from them as well, since the threads will be on the OD as well for the hub caps. My LTZ lugs wont work. $3/lug? Or $3/set of 5?


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Other places online sell the steel wheels that fit our Cruzes. I'd also look at tire/wheel packages purchased online. Free mounting/balancing to boot, and no need to worry about buying covers that aren't necessary.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

Tirerack ended up being more expensive than doing it myself if I remember correctly


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Check other places, too, before ruling it out completely.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

Any suggestions?


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

A question regarding buying new TPMS. Will I need to flash the sensors or anything, so they will talk to the car, or just put them on the vehicle and set the corner like I would the factory sensors?


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

Placed my order with GMPartsdirect last night, and get an email today stating the wheel is on backorder, with no ETA from GM. (Even though it stated "In Stock" when I placed my order)

Any recommendations on where else to get an 16" steelie? I want the OEM wheel, not the knock off from Tirerack.


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