# issue after issue....send help!



## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Terrible?


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## rejesterd (Oct 31, 2019)

The P00C7 code is probably why they recommended replacing the MAP sensor (i.e. the intake air/pressure sensor). But it seems like these guys want to just replace sensors because of error codes, when they should have just diagnosed the problem.

So you said the vehicle overheated.. for how long? And was it only one time? I assume the overheating was caused by the leaking hose. Was it the upper or lower radiator hose, or a different hose?

If you look at your exhaust after the engine has warmed up, do you see any excessive smoke? If so, note the color.

Can you remove your spark plugs? If you don't have a spark plug socket, I would get one and take a look. If you find that one or more spark plug tips looks cleaner/very different from the others, then I would guess you have internal damage that's causing most of your error codes. It's possible you have a leaking head gasket due to the overheating, and now coolant is getting mixed in with the exhaust gases. That would cause O2 sensor codes. I'm not sure about the turbo-related codes, but it seems like you have a serious issue with the car. I would maybe risk $100 or so and take it to someone else who will hopefully perform better diagnostics. It's worth the $100 to know if your engine does have internal damage, because at that point, I think you can stop sinking money into it. Fixing internal engine damage is rarely worth it on a modern car.. thousands of dollars usually.


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## Trishtish707 (Nov 4, 2019)

Trishtish707 said:


> vehicle overheated and shut off/ hose broke/ I replaced hose; now check engine light is on and radiator fan comes on full blast right when car is started and does not shut off.
> 
> After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
> P112C (no description given)
> ...


UPDATE
New Codes after work stated above was complete-
P0237- (Came Up Twice) -Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P112C- Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0236-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
C0A00-
B2AAA-

Is there a Turbocharger Boost Sensor?

Does anyone know what the code B2AA & C0A00 is? 

Also we installed a new air intake/charge temperature sensor but the car is still pulling the P112C code?


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## kelaog (Aug 1, 2019)

Trishtish707 said:


> UPDATE
> 
> 
> Is there a Turbocharger Boost Sensor?
> ...


There is on the diesels, not sure what you have. The MAP sensor handles boost pressure and intake air temperature. It would appear to me that is causing all of your issues based on your CEL's. 

If you had a scan tool you could easily monitor boost pressure and intake air temperature and you would probably see those values don't make sense.


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## Trishtish707 (Nov 4, 2019)

rejesterd said:


> The P00C7 code is probably why they recommended replacing the MAP sensor (i.e. the intake air/pressure sensor). But it seems like these guys want to just replace sensors because of error codes, when they should have just diagnosed the problem.
> 
> So you said the vehicle overheated.. for how long? And was it only one time? I assume the overheating was caused by the leaking hose. Was it the upper or lower radiator hose, or a different hose?
> 
> ...


So you said the vehicle overheated.. for how long? 
*im not exactly sure, I was driving down freeway had music up looked down to see car saying "Vehicle overheat Shutting down" It was only this one time it has ever overheated 

The hose we replaced was "General Motors 95039026 HVAC Heater Hose/ aka inlet heater hose it goes to the firewall 

I have not checked the exhaust or spark plugs.

I would take it in but no mechanic will actually tell me if it has internal damage or not, they just want me to keep sinking money into them. worst part is this car is not even paid off, I still owe like $4k. 

I updated my original post with the new codes the car is pulling.*


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## Trishtish707 (Nov 4, 2019)

kelaog said:


> There is on the diesels, not sure what you have. The MAP sensor handles boost pressure and intake air temperature. It would appear to me that is causing all of your issues based on your CEL's.
> 
> If you had a scan tool you could easily monitor boost pressure and intake air temperature and you would probably see those values don't make sense.


my Cruze isn't diesel 

what is MAP sensor?


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## rejesterd (Oct 31, 2019)

Trishtish707 said:


> *I would take it in but no mechanic will actually tell me if it has internal damage or not, they just want me to keep sinking money into them. worst part is this car is not even paid off, I still owe like $4k. *


I would call a shop and just say "I think I might have a leaking head gasket due to an overheating issue I had. Can you do a leak-down test and tell me what you think?" I think if you just spend an hour of labor to have someone do a leak-down test, it's worth knowing either way. Good luck.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

kelaog said:


> There is on the diesels, not sure what you have. The MAP sensor handles boost pressure and intake air temperature. It would appear to me that is causing all of your issues based on your CEL's.
> 
> If you had a scan tool you could easily monitor boost pressure and intake air temperature and you would probably see those values don't make sense.


In simple terms, OBD II fault *code B2AAA* is a *code* that is sometimes displayed by some scanners or *code* readers when that particular scanner or *code* reader is programmed with an OBD II communication protocol that is incompatible with the OBD communication protocol in use on the affected application.


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## kelaog (Aug 1, 2019)

Trishtish707 said:


> my Cruze isn't diesel
> 
> what is MAP sensor?


Manifold Air Pressure. On the diesel it is a combined unit with the temp sensor. It will give you atmospheric, vacuum, and boost pressure. After checking Rockauto for the 1.4L turbo it appears its the same part #. I found a listing for both a turbo boost sensor and a manifold air pressure sensor. I wouldn't think there would be two but I'm not familiar with the gas engine. Both can read temperatures however. Perhaps your MAP/IAT (intake air temperature) sensor, if you have one, is also faulty resulting in the remaining P112C code. It would be installed directly on the intake manifold downstream of the throttle body is. 





 video showing replacement of the boost sensor. Is this what you changed?





__





2014 CHEVROLET CRUZE 1.4L L4 Turbocharged Manifold Pressure (MAP) Sensor | RockAuto


RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.



www.rockauto.com




ACDELCO 55567257




__





 2014 CHEVROLET CRUZE 1.4L L4 Turbocharged Turbocharger Boost Sensor | RockAuto


RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.



www.rockauto.com




ACDELCO 55568175


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Is your engine still losing coolant after fixing the leak.. i.e are driving it? If so you have probably warped the cylinder head. Get the leak down test done at an independent shop.


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## kelaog (Aug 1, 2019)

frankh said:


> Is your engine still losing coolant after fixing the leak.. i.e are driving it? If so you have probably warped the cylinder head. Get the leak down test done at an independent shop.


For what it's worth,

If it was my car I would see if operating temps were normal after the fix, if yes,
2. Check oil to see if the color is milky/chocolate milk in color, if no
3. Check to see if coolant is milky, if no
4. Is exhaust when cold starting the car a thick white cloud that doesn't dissipate immediately. If no,
5. Is exhaust a thick white cloud while warm, if no.


If you answered the same as my questions then the car is fine. The safety shutdown stopped you from wrecking it.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Trishtish707 said:


> After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
> P112C (no description given)
> P00C7 (no description given)
> P0238- Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
> ...


P112C: CHEVROLET - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 3 Circuit Low Voltage
Possible causes:
Faulty Intake Air Temperature sensor 
Intake Air Temperature sensor harness is open or shorted 
Intake Air Temperature sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p112c_chevrolet.html 

P00C7: Intake air pressure measurement system - multiple sensor correlation - Probably the MAP sensor though. (Also check your gas cap)

P0238 - Potential causes for this code to set are: 
DTC’s related to intake air temperature sensor (IAT), 
engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT), 
or 5 volt reference Intermittent wiring problems 
Faulty boost sensor "A" 
Short circuit to voltage on sensor circuit 
Faulty PCM
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0238

P0237 - Potential causes for this code to set are: 
Faulty boost sensor "A" 
Faulty turbocharger 
Faulty PCM 
Wiring problem
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0237

P0236 - Potential causes for this code to set are: 
Vacuum supply 
Pinched, collapsed or broken vacuum lines 
Faulty control solenoid 
Faulty PCM
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0236

A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 
O2 Heater element resistance is high Internal short or 
open in the heater element 
O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance open or short to ground in the wiring harness
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135

P0134 - A code P0134 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 
Bad O2 (oxygen) sensor 
Bad heater circuit in the O2 sensor Wiring or 
connector to the sensor frayed / broken 
Blown heater circuit fuse 
Holes in the exhaust system 
PCM failure
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0134

P0132 - A code P0132 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 
The oxygen sensor heater circuit is shorted out 
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed (less likely)

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0132


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## rejesterd (Oct 31, 2019)

kelaog said:


> For what it's worth,
> 
> If it was my car I would see if operating temps were normal after the fix, if yes,
> 2. Check oil to see if the color is milky/chocolate milk in color, if no
> ...


Yeah, these are very simple tests you can do and they can often clarify the main problem much better than the ECM can. Rummaging through that many codes is futile imo.


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## Trishtish707 (Nov 4, 2019)

frankh said:


> Is your engine still losing coolant after fixing the leak.. i.e are driving it? If so you have probably warped the cylinder head. Get the leak down test done at an independent shop.


I haven't driven it since we replaced the hose other then to take it to the shop once to be diagnosed


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## Samuyo (Oct 28, 2019)

Trishtish707 said:


> vehicle overheated and shut off/ hose broke/ I replaced hose; now check engine light is on and radiator fan comes on full blast right when car is started and does not shut off.
> 
> After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
> P112C (no description given)
> ...


My 2016 was overheating at 42,000 miles... the water pump was bad, dealer replaced for free


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## Antho_420 (Jul 15, 2020)

Trishtish707 said:


> vehicle overheated and shut off/ hose broke/ I replaced hose; now check engine light is on and radiator fan comes on full blast right when car is started and does not shut off.
> 
> After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
> P112C (no description given)
> ...


where u ever able to find the problem ?


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## aeemgee (Jul 16, 2020)

Sounds like what I'm experiencing. (2012 Eco Manual @~134k miles). Mine overheated, broke the water outlet valve tip right off into the hose. It's at the dealer now. They replaced water pump, thermostats/sensors, battery, and are now saying it's failing pressure tests and want me to say yes to continue testing and add to the bill or call it a loss. I bought it brand new and paid it off after almost 5 years and I'm really having hard time with the fact that it's supposedly scrap at not even 140k miles.


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