# Upgrading LS handling



## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I have a 2011 LS and I noticed the handling is kinda "loose". It is not bad it seems to take turns OK for me. I noticed the car "rolls very quickly" and that gets me in "trouble" when it comes to sudden turns/stopping. Would upgrading to 17 or 18 in wheels help the situation? I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about making the car a little sportier on the handling or how the other trim levels ride. Any ideas?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Try boosting the tire pressure to stiffen the sidewalls before spending money on larger rims.


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

The UR bars from insanespeedmotorsports.com are amazing and will tighten things up nicely, not to mention the sway bar and endlinks that ISM developed. Those in addition to a 17" wheel would make you happy, I think. For reference, the ECO uses a 17" with a 215/55/17 and I get pretty decent handling even without having my bars installed anymore.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Getting rid of the crappy Firestones would be the first step I would take. They are absolutely terrible for handling.

Go with a larger rim size or V-rated tire with stiffer sidewalls. Do some research on Tire Rack.

I believe the suspension setup even on the base LS/LT models is still fairly good for handling, if a bit softer then the 2LT/LTZ suspension.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Thanks I knew I could count on you guys for some input. I will first try the tire pressure and go from there. I don't want to replace the 16s with other 16s if I ultimately go to 17s like the Eco or 2LT. Thats what I get for buying the baseline car. LOL Anything can be changed tho.


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## seaux cajun (Jun 19, 2012)

I also have the LS and kind of had the same issues, I put 17s on the car with better tires and it improved a bit. I am actually about to put 18" lexanis with nexen v rated tires and lowering the car with coil overs so i think that my handling will greatly improve. If you are interested in 17s I will probably be getting rid of mine next week for pretty cheap and the tires only have about 2500 miles on them.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

seaux cajun said:


> I also have the LS and kind of had the same issues, I put 17s on the car with better tires and it improved a bit. I am actually about to put 18" lexanis with nexen v rated tires and lowering the car with coil overs so i think that my handling will greatly improve. If you are interested in 17s I will probably be getting rid of mine next week for pretty cheap and the tires only have about 2500 miles on them.


Keep in mind, larger aftermarket wheels are usually going to be heavier. There are exceptions, but they're very expensive. The only affordable exception is the 17" wheel that came on the Cruze Eco. From a handling perspective alone, that would be one of your best choices. Find a stiffer sidewall 225 or 215 wide tire and you'll be good to go. I'd recommend something like the Bridgestone G019 Grid, or another uni-directional tire. Nitto has some pretty good ones from what I've heard, and their new Motivo looks quite appealing. 

If you're going for handling though, tire and/or wheel replacements are about the most expensive single modifications you can make (with the exception of coilovers, which is another can of worms). You're looking at a good $800-$1200 for a set of wheels and tires. For half that much money, you can easily get front and rear strut tower braces as well as a rear sway bar and poly bushings all around, which I can guarantee you will make a vastly bigger difference than tires will. The value in buying new tires and wheels from a purely handling perspective simply isn't there. In fact, it would be the *last *thing on my list.


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## seaux cajun (Jun 19, 2012)

I agree with extreme i was just pointing out that the handling did improve when i changed my wheels and tires, more specifically the tires, however i am aware that there are cheaper ways of tightening the car up i was simply giving my opinion to the OP's question, I am changing to the 18s because of looks not because i think it will turn into a handling machine. Also i am putting coil overs on which will also help the handling but risk other problems, again I am doing it mostly for looks.


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## Moose (Mar 24, 2012)

Yep, I got the LS as well. Ditch the Firestones. I got a pair of 18inch Falken FK452's They have grip for days, Super impressed with them. Read the reviews im not the only one, nicely priced to. 

The car still hast super soft suspension and likes to roll, but **** that doesnt slow me down with all the grip these tires have, Sometimes i purposly charge through turns at high speed and she stays right where i want her.

Tires - FK452 - Falken Tire


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

TIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! since im probaly one of the few who switched to a grippier tire they make a world of diffrence,and a larger wheel would not hurt either,
if i were you patman idd go for new wheels and tires then work on bracing and suspesnion later cause without tires youll still be on stock steelies and really the tire is what is touching the road not the braces,


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## silverls (Nov 12, 2011)

I put the UR front upper bar on my 12 LS and it does make a difference with the roll. Im not gonna ditch the tires til after they are worn but 40psi seems to make them a lot better. Like boats said ISM has front sway link and a rear sway var and thats what im saving for now

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jakkaroo said:


> TIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! since im probaly one of the few who switched to a grippier tire they make a world of diffrence,and a larger wheel would not hurt either,
> if i were you patman idd go for new wheels and tires then work on bracing and suspesnion later cause without tires youll still be on stock steelies and really the tire is what is touching the road not the braces,


Not to be argumentative, but allow me to share my experience.

I pulled sustained (several seconds) .91 Gs on a windy mountain road in my 1995 Buick Regal (can anyone say land yacht?) on 15" stock alloys and 235/60/15 tires, with a 70/30 front to rear weight distribution. The stock LTZ will reach .85 Gs on the skidpad. 

The modifications were:

Custom manufactured rear transverse lowered leaf spring (flex-a-form) 
Lowered front springs for a Monte Carlo (suspension techniques)
KYB GR2 shocks front and rear
Polyurethane control arm and sway bar bushings
Aftermarket ADDCO 22" rear sway bar
Custom front and rear strut tower bars (made them myself)
Extended studs with 1/4" wheel spacers on the rear

I have a picture of the display on my Passport G-timer proving it reached those numbers. 

At the end of the day, what will get you around a corner faster? $1000-$1200 in tires and wheels, or $1000-$1200 in suspension mods? 



Now, those who know something about GM platforms knows that the 95 Regal is on the same platform (GM w-body) as the Chevy Lumina, Grand Prix, Monte Carlo, and Olds Cutlass Supreme. I have a buddy who had the exact same suspension modifications on his Grand Prix, except he had coilovers on the rear while I (at the time) had the flex-a-form custom rear leaf. He has youtube videos of his grand prix autocrossing. You can find him searching for "aweb80." With those modifications on factory 16" x-lace alloys and all-season tires, he would spank C5 Corvette Z06s all day long on the autocross track. At one point, he tried 18" Eagle 077s and discovered the car's handling actually degraded, and ended up selling them to put his 16s back on. 

I know, the Cruze is no w-body, but in order to determine how to improve handling, you have to determine why your handling sucks and what you're trying to fix.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Not to be argumentative, but allow me to share my experience.
> 
> I pulled sustained (several seconds) .91 Gs on a windy mountain road in my 1995 Buick Regal (can anyone say land yacht?) on 15" stock alloys and 235/60/15 tires, with a 70/30 front to rear weight distribution. The stock LTZ will reach .85 Gs on the skidpad.
> 
> ...


true but wheels and tires are a great addtion for looks and performance over stock heavy steelies with crappy firestone tires,imo the eco wheels are the best only if alil bigger


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jakkaroo said:


> true but wheels and tires are a great addtion for looks and performance over stock heavy steelies with crappy firestone tires,imo the eco wheels are the best only if alil bigger


No doubt about that! If the Eco wheels were available as an 18" wheel and .5" wider, they'd be on my short list of wheels to buy. They'd probably be fairly expensive though. Reminds me of the 18s I had on my Bonneville GXP. Very desirable, and very expensive to find even used but I've never seen a car they didn't look awesome on.


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## silverls (Nov 12, 2011)

jakkaroo said:


> true but wheels and tires are a great addtion for looks and performance over stock heavy steelies with crappy firestone tires,imo the eco wheels are the best only if alil bigger


Are steelies really that heavy on this car? Normally steelies are pretty light. 

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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

silverls said:


> Are steelies really that heavy on this car? Normally steelies are pretty light.
> 
> Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.Com Free App


If i remember right there 46 something my eco wheels are right around 34 so theee decent but figure theee 16s too

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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

OK I like the idea of 17s Eco if I can get them but 2 concerns: 1 Cost and what would I do with the steelies an tires since the 16s only have 24000 miles on them they do not need replacing and I don't have the room to store them for Winter. That is why I said I would try higher pressure in my tires to see how that affects the "overall" first.


Thanks


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Patman said:


> OK I like the idea of 17s Eco if I can get them but 2 concerns: 1 Cost and what would I do with the steelies an tires since the 16s only have 24000 miles on them they do not need replacing and I don't have the room to store them for Winter. That is why I said I would try higher pressure in my tires to see how that affects the "overall" first.
> 
> 
> Thanks


Run the higher pressure and drive them till you can't get around in the winter anymore. Then, get rid of them. No sense in wasting a perfectly good tire unless you're desperate for lateral grip.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

I installed the Ultra Racing front strut bar, rear 2pt upper strut bar, and increased my tire pressure to 42psi. My Eco handles like crazy now!

Hoping my Cruze and my Droid 3 are still here to send this message barring any engine fires!


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Patman said:


> OK I like the idea of 17s Eco if I can get them but 2 concerns: 1 Cost and what would I do with the steelies an tires since the 16s only have 24000 miles on them they do not need replacing and I don't have the room to store them for Winter. That is why I said I would try higher pressure in my tires to see how that affects the "overall" first.
> 
> 
> Thanks



Update I just increased pressure to @42 all the way around and I love it!!!! I feel the road again and it is not a "cushy ride" anymore. Ergo I don't find myself going as fast and handling an braking improved also. Before the ride was rather soft and the car would get away from me speed wise now not so much 

I will see how that goes for a while

Thanks again.

For everyone's information: I am not trying to get the car to handle like a Porsche or Vette. So pulling "gs or taking 40 mph turns at 75 is not my intent. I was actually trying to prevent the car from not letting me feel what is going on. I was looking for more road feel like my Aleros with 205 55 16s and stiffer suspension. I am almost there.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Glad to hear that. If you noticed a difference in how it feels, you will definitely notice a difference in fuel economy over the course of your tank of gas. Two birds with one stone!


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

Patman said:


> For everyone's information: I am not trying to get the car to handle like a Porsche or Vette. So pulling "gs or taking 40 mph turns at 75 is not my intent. I was actually trying to prevent the car from not letting me feel what is going on. I was looking for more road feel like my Aleros with 205 55 16s and stiffer suspension. I am almost there.


Haha, I took a 30 mph turn at 70 this morning on my ECO tires at the stock 35 psi (might be around 33 with the weather right now though) lol


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

jakkaroo said:


> TIRES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! since im probably one of the few who switched to a grip pier tire they make a world of difference,and a larger wheel would not hurt either,
> if i were you Patman id go for new wheels and tires then work on bracing and suspension later cause without tires you'll still be on stock steelies and really the tire is what is touching the road not the braces,


Well today I "bit the bullet"! I bought new tires Michelin Defender XTs. 24000 mi on the FR710s and that was it!!!! I got a **** of a deal on the Defender XTs $600 installed at Sam's Club(Tire discounters wanted 740 for the same set of tires installed with alignment and all the other crap they give you!) Sam's will rotate and balance for free They weren't busy and I came in asking for exactly what I wanted the Defender XTs. Michelin has a $70 rebate on a set of 4. The guy at Sam's took 70 off the total installed price so $595. The Defender is a LRR tire that is rated at 90000 miles. Yes I still have the steelies! I have no problem with them That is why I went to 2012 hub caps from the 2011 caps. Haven't had a chance to drive too much just @ 15 miles on the highway and it feels better already! Looking forward to hitting some turns with it and seeing if the LRR s improve MPG!


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