# 2014 Cruze Diesel Major Electrical Issues



## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Need help! Yesterday my 2014 Cruze Diesel lost the tachometer, speedometer, directional s, with the engine running. The center display is reporting more errors on basically every system from the air bag, to side detection monitoring. 
I'm a long distance commuter (over 200 miles each day) so my cruise has approximately 96,000 miles on it. I love the diesel but this car's electronics make me question the vehicle's long term reliability. I didn't see any blown fuse, so looking for suggestions since the vehicle is out of warranty :angry: I understand that no company can warranty a vehicle forever and stay in business, but a 3 year old vehicle regardless of mileage should not have electrical issues like this.

My last commuter vehicle (different brand) went 300,000 miles with no major issues before I gave it to my daughter who is still driving it. Very disappointed that everything is out of warranty because I drive the vehicle long distances. Sorry for the rant, but any help is greatly appreciated.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

What happens when you disconnect the battery cable and reconnect it? This could be a spurious error or you could have a failed component. Also, how is the car driving? You could be looking at an electrical issue, a fried BCM, a fried cluster computer/board, or a wiring harness failure.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

obermd,

The vehicle engine continued to run fine with no issue. It's all electrical issues, but I have not disconnected the battery to reset the computer yet. The problem started on my commute home last night, so it was dark when I got home. I brought a different vehicle to work today and will try disconnecting the battery tonight. Also, I didn't mention that the directionals and Radio/Nav system don't work. Though the radio randomly came back on during the drive. 
Thanks for the reply!


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## highmarker (Jul 27, 2015)

I would recommend doing what obermd suggests. But when you disconnect the battery, disconnect both cables (+ and -) and hold them together for about 30 seconds. Then reconnect the battery. This drains all the capacitors and "resets" all the electronics in the car.

I had kind of a similar issue with my Silverado where the gauges on the cluster were going all wacky (fuel level was shown incorrectly, heater/AC was blowing hot on driver side and cold on passenger side, etc.). I disconnected the battery cables, touched them together, and reconnected them and "tah dah" it was all fixed.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks Highmarker! I'll give it a shot when I get home tonight. My fuel gauge, temperature, tach, and speedo are all not functioning, so it can't hurt to try.


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## Schmelz (Nov 24, 2013)

I suggest that you check your battery cables , especially the negative one. Classic symptoms of poor connection. Good luck.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Well, no joy removing the battery cables so I dropped the car off at the dealer this afternoon. Three hours of dealer troubleshooting and they still can't identify the problem. Unbelievable, so now I'm driving a Hertz Chevy Spark while the cost of finding a solution to my problem goes through the roof! Again, unbelievable for a 2014 car!


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

I respectfully suggest that you need a new battery. 

Many 2014 CTD owners are finding that the factory battery is only lasting 2.5 years.

I've written about my experience here:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-c...scussion/155881-factory-battery-replaced.html


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks Tomko and it's worth checking out, though I haven't had any issues starting or driving the vehicle. The electronic cluster (gauges) is the main item not working, along with the radio/nav system. It might be attributed to a low amperage issue, though I would expect the car not to start under those conditions. Apparently, I'm the first person with this issue, but thank all of you for the recommended items to check.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

First things first - have you had the negative battery cable replaced? It is under warranty for 10 years or 120K miles. It fixed some electrical gremlins I had.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...al-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Diesel, No the negative battery cable has not been replaced. The dealership said the negative battery cable and the battery itself are good. I asked them to check the Negative Lead first due to the Spec Coverage referred to above. They suspect the problem is with the BCM though that was 2 hours ago and I still have not received a call. On a positive note, the service manager said they would limit the t/s labor to 2 hours.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

NH_Diesel said:


> Diesel, No the negative battery cable has not been replaced. The dealership said the negative battery cable and the battery itself are good. I asked them to check the Negative Lead first due to the Spec Coverage referred to above. They suspect the problem is with the BCM though that was 2 hours ago and I still have not received a call. On a positive note, the service manager said they would limit the t/s labor to 2 hours.


I don't understand why they are not replacing it Your symptoms appear to be right in line with what the spec coverage states. If I were you I would ask them to replace that since it's covered. Good luck.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Does this thing have a DIC like the gas Cruzes do that shows the system voltage? Should read a steady approximately 14.7 volts, but goes down to 13.7 volts when hot or even past 15.0 volts when cold.

Mine sure started to jump all over the place, on mine with the blower motor on full was measuring 2.1 volts between the negative battery terminal, not the clamp on it to the engine block. Problem with mine was Chevy never dipped the end of that bare copper wire that is crimped inside the negative battery clamp.

Ha, my first digital voltmeter cost $3,500.00, can buy a half way decent one today for ten bucks about the same cost to make a cell phone, but expect to be screwed blue when you buy a phone.

I soldered that cable to that battery clamp, installed it, did the same test, but now it was only dropping 0.014 volts, this gave the electrical system an extra 2 volts to function properly. But still was getting more jumping around on the DIC display.

So checked the positive side as well, get a 0.3 to 0.5 volt drop, isolated this to an ignition relay in the underhood fuse/relay box. Actually an ignition switch is a stupid name, diesels do not have an ignition system, in aircraft, more intelligent people, call this a master switch.

Whatever, its the switch that provides all the power to all the electrical and electronic devices in your vehicle. It use to be a real power type switch, but in the Cruze, just a tiny little thing that fires up the BCM that closes a relay contact in that fuse/relay box with point contacts, stupid, a real ignition power switch used a self cleaning sliding contact switch, more problems that were never problems before. 

Had to cut that relay open, sure doesn't help to read, Made In China, China makes crap, just a bit of carbon arcing debris on the contacts creating more resistance causing all this grief. Cleaned that off and was good again, but did replace it with a Panasonic relay. Some of finest relays were made here in the good ole USA, put that in your history book, those basterds in Washington working for Asians did this to us.

Not saying these are your problems, but using the voltage drop method works, a fully charged battery at 75*F should read 12,9 volts, if left disconnected for a couple of days, due to a self discharge would drop down to 12.1 volts, all this stuff is basic for a person trained in electronics and electrical.

Reason why your dealers can't find simple basic problems like this, have zero electronic training, but yet have the nerve to call themselves experts. Don't even know the difference between a resistor or a door knob.

Paying someone 125 bucks an hour that doesn't know sh!t is a major problem, Made in China is another one. Replacing sliding contacts with point contacts is another problem.

Like prochoice is politically correct word for murdering an unborn child, maintenance free is an advertising word for throwaway.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

NickD said:


> Had to cut that relay open, sure doesn't help to read, Made In China, China makes crap, just a bit of carbon arcing debris on the contacts creating more resistance causing all this grief. Cleaned that off and was good again, but did replace it with a Panasonic relay. Some of finest relays were made here in the good ole USA, put that in your history book, those basterds in Washington


Had the same issues with the relays controlling xfer case servo for 4WD on my F350 when vehicle was 2 yrs new. One pays $50K for a "*Super Duty*" vehicle which can be disabled in snow by a cheap $7.50 relay. The stealers wanted $65 for the relays. The first and second replacements did not work right out of the box!! Can you say made in China!! Third time the charm as it's said. Year later same issue all over again, this time around got a substitute replacement from Newark Elec for $7.50 (single quantity) and no further problems since, going on 7 years now.

Blame our self for those bastards in Washington and Springfield , *get out and vote this time around!! :angry:*


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Diesel,

So the Chevy dealer after 1.5 days of troubleshooting, replaced the Negative Battery cable as I suggested they check when I dropped it off. Their troubleshooting also indicated that the airbag sensor in the passenger seat was bad and needs to be replaced (not a problem when it went in). They order the replacement part and sent me on my way (17 March) with the airbag light on. Halfway home I stop at a store and shut the vehicle off. When the vehicle restarted, the airbag service light magically went out and all seemed fine. Today (28 March) I start the car for work and the Radio/Nav Display is dead. So i quickly check the display fuse and find it is blown. As soon as I plug in a new fuse it blows! No clue what is shorted and causing the fuse to immediately blow.

I'm hating this car more by the minute. I spent extra money for the Cruze diesel expecting it to last for at least 5 years of long distance commuting. The motor may make it, but the electronic problems are horrible! 
Voltage in the DIC this morning ranged from 13.9 to 14.7 volts
Any suggestions? I'm very disappointed in this Chevy!:angry:


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

NH_Diesel said:


> Diesel,
> 
> So the Chevy dealer after 1.5 days of troubleshooting, replaced the Negative Battery cable as I suggested they check when I dropped it off. Their troubleshooting also indicated that the airbag sensor in the passenger seat was bad and needs to be replaced (not a problem when it went in). They order the replacement part and sent me on my way (17 March) with the airbag light on. Halfway home I stop at a store and shut the vehicle off. When the vehicle restarted, the airbag service light magically went out and all seemed fine. Today (28 March) I start the car for work and the Radio/Nav Display is dead. So i quickly check the display fuse and find it is blown. As soon as I plug in a new fuse it blows! No clue what is shorted and causing the fuse to immediately blow.
> 
> ...


Man that sucks! I found a thread on a similar topic, but it doesn't have a follow up as to the definitive solution. Either way, a reprogram or a new head unit seem to be in order. I am not 100% clear on if the batter cable caused it though. I never had any MyLink issues after I had my battery cable replaced. Hopefully it's only ONE more trip to the dealer to get your car sorted once and for all! Please keep us posted. 

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...r-having-negative-battery-cable-replaced.html


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

I'll post back when they figure it out. Thanks for the reply!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

NH_Diesel, the Cruze uses a variable output alternator so your voltage fluctuations are normal and in range. Kind of weird when you first see it though.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

NH_Diesel said:


> I start the car for work and the Radio/Nav Display is dead. So i quickly check the display fuse and find it is blown. As soon as I plug in a new fuse it blows! No clue what is shorted and causing the fuse to immediately blow.


I think you're the first person here to report such a problem. This one should be interesting. Either the display unit has really managed to blow itself up, or you have a pinched cable in the dashboard.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

if a fuse is blowing all the time that is a good thing. You should be able to find the short fairly easily. Will need to look at the wiring schematic and see what is on that circuit. If it blows with the radio plugged in and does not with the radio not plugged in then it's the radio.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

jkhawaii said:


> if a fuse is blowing all the time that is a good thing. You should be able to find the short fairly easily. Will need to look at the wiring schematic and see what is on that circuit. If it blows with the radio plugged in and does not with the radio not plugged in then it's the radio.


The radio works fine, just no display and none of the buttons below the display work. You can change the station and source using the Steering Wheel controls. It may be a pinched wire as the dealer changed the negative battery cable after checking multiple other locations.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

obermd said:


> NH_Diesel, the Cruze uses a variable output alternator so your voltage fluctuations are normal and in range. Kind of weird when you first see it though.


I figured the voltages were within range. Though it is weird how the voltage goes down when I accelerate and up when I hit the brakes. Kind of the opposite of what I would expect.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

NH_Diesel said:


> I figured the voltages were within range. Though it is weird how the voltage goes down when I accelerate and up when I hit the brakes. Kind of the opposite of what I would expect.


It may be counterintuive from an engine RPM point of view - but it makes sense in terms of reducing engine load and maximizing alternator drag when energy is already being converted to heat by the brakes.


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## smkn600ctd (Dec 16, 2013)

My electrical issues continue too. So now they are replacing the instrument fuse block for what they think is the cause of a intermittent open. 

Turn the fan control...shows on the screen that your turning it, but the fan says and stays off. 

The a/c will stop blowing cold...anywhere from 5 min or till you shut it the car off.

The other person on a Bluetooth phone call hears a sin wave/whining electrical noise, but inside the car it's sounds like a normal phone call.

The car has shutoff and back on instantaneously (like you turned the key off and then right back on). Engine bucks and all the dash lights came on.

So far two negative cables and a a/c dash control has not fixed it. Each time they would tell me I was crazy and no problem found. So now I stop what I am doing or where I am going and drive straight to the dealer, leave it running and have the same advisor and the manager come out. It's almost stupid that they know me by name and I don't even have to wait for them to fill out the work order and sign.

Good thing too...car is at 35650 miles. They have had the car a whole week about a month ago and now they have it again for another week waiting for the fuse block from Detroit.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

I'd think about buying a GMPP or GMEPP before you roll over 36,000.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Tomko said:


> I'd think about buying a GMPP or GMEPP before you roll over 36,000.


Too late for me! My Cruise Diesel is just under 100,000 miles when the electrical problems started.


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## econ (Sep 5, 2015)

smkn600ctd said:


> My electrical issues continue too. So now they are replacing the instrument fuse block for what they think is the cause of a intermittent open.
> 
> Turn the fan control...shows on the screen that your turning it, but the fan says and stays off.
> 
> ...


This is when I would find a new dealer. The dealer's job is to provide service, not criticism. It took me a while to find a good dealer I could trust, but I now drive close to an hour to a dealership because they have built a relationship with me based on service.


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## smkn600ctd (Dec 16, 2013)

econ said:


> This is when I would find a new dealer. The dealer's job is to provide service, not criticism. It took me a while to find a good dealer I could trust, but I now drive close to an hour to a dealership because they have built a relationship with me based on service.


3 Different Dealers.....the car is great...the electrical is about as good as a Fiat. That's why now, as soon as it F's up, I stop what I am doing and change direction and head straight over to the dealership, and leave it running in the service drive to get the manager and the SA. It has not been a great vehicle ownership experience. 

As for an extended warranty, I'll be spending the money on paying off the negative equity and selling it, if it became too much more of PITA. 

$2K warranty and dealers still can't figure it out, or $2K down on something else and be done with it....


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

smkn600ctd said:


> 3 Different Dealers.....the car is great...the electrical is about as good as a Fiat. That's why now, as soon as it F's up, I stop what I am doing and change direction and head straight over to the dealership, and leave it running in the service drive to get the manager and the SA. It has not been a great vehicle ownership experience.
> 
> As for an extended warranty, I'll be spending the money on paying off the negative equity and selling it, if it became too much more of PITA.
> 
> $2K warranty and dealers still can't figure it out, or $2K down on something else and be done with it....


Better than $2K out of pocket! I have a bad feeling about my ride's electrical system and the thought of paying for multiple trips to the dealer. This problem is becoming a huge pain in the a$$ and wallet!


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## spaycace (Feb 9, 2012)

Are the owners having these issues all owners of 2014 MY diesels?


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

spaycace said:


> Are the owners having these issues all owners of 2014 MY diesels?


My issues are with my 2014 Cruze TD...


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

spaycace said:


> Are the owners having these issues all owners of 2014 MY diesels?


NH_Diesel is the first report we've had of extensive strange electrical issues.


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## smkn600ctd (Dec 16, 2013)

Mine is a early 2014


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

smkn600ctd said:


> Mine is a early 2014


 Where again is Las Vegas CA?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

spaycace said:


> Are the owners having these issues all owners of 2014 MY diesels?


My very early build 2014 diesel has been a great, if not perfect, car. I have 162K miles on it and it continues to provide reliable transportation. Very few people have reported extensive issues, and they mostly revolve around incompetent dealers unable to sort the cars properly.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

diesel said:


> My very early build 2014 diesel has been a great, if not perfect, car. I have 162K miles on it and it continues to provide reliable transportation. Very few people have reported extensive issues, and they mostly revolve around incompetent dealers unable to sort the cars properly.


I've been really happy with my Diesel in terms of performance, comfort, etc. and I'm one here who has been saying the same thing for the last 2.5 years. However, I'm beginning to develop a bit of annoyance with mine these days. I haven't spent much time around CruzeTalk in the last few months because we're expecting our 5th baby on Monday and preparing for a move to Michigan 4 weeks following, but mine is starting to peck away at me with problems. I had the O2/EGR problem while under warranty, then a Particulate Matter Sensor and NOX2 failed on me about a year apart. Now as I enter my third summer with the car and just crossed 55,000 miles, I've had codes for the Active Grill Shutter for about a month and just this week, I got the P21DD for the DEF tank heater. I still love the car, but if it keeps nickel and diming me with emissions problems after the move next month (and I go from driving 500-700 miles a week to driving less than 100 in a typical week), it might become a choice between moving on from my Diesel to something else (or even just bringing my Jeep back into service as the daily driver) or keeping it but deleting the emissions.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> but mine is starting to peck away at me with problems. I had the O2/EGR problem while under warranty, then a Particulate Matter Sensor and NOX2 failed on me about a year apart.


Just out of curiosity to see whether there is a pattern developing to these issues? What is your practice for oil change intervals, type and brand of motor oil, stations you generally shop for diesel and do you know % biodiesel of the fuel and do you use a fuel additive and if so which fuel additive do you use?


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

theonlypheonix said:


> Just out of curiosity to see whether there is a pattern developing to these issues? What is your practice for oil change intervals, type and brand of motor oil, stations you generally shop for diesel and do you know % biodiesel of the fuel and do you use a fuel additive and if so which fuel additive do you use?


I change at 5-10% on the Oil Life Monitor, which usually is about 7500 miles. I use the AMS Oil 5w-30 European. I buy fuel at a few locally-owned stations that I know sell quality fuel at a high volume, since there aren't national chains in my area. In most cases, the owner or manager can tell me exactly what's in the tank, and I always purchase 100% #2 Diesel with no BioDiesel. I occasionally use the AMSOil diesel additive, but so infrequently that I've only gone through 64 ounces of it over the 55k I've owned the car. I suspect that loose intake clamps may have been to blame for the sensor issues, and I haven't had any more fail since I tightened the intake clamps. The new failure is a DEF system problem, though, which would be unrelated to intake air, fuel, or oil. It's just that there are too many complex parts on this system so there are bound to be failures when that many parts and systems are involved.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

NH_Diesel said:


> My issues are with my 2014 Cruze TD...


 oh. How's the CD player? You don't have young children that like to put coins inside do you? May not apply to your vehicle but I've seen that quite a few times. Most of the time fuses would blow.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

revjpeterson said:


> I change at 5-10% on the Oil Life Monitor, which usually is about 7500 miles. I use the AMS Oil 5w-30 European. I buy fuel at a few locally-owned stations that I know sell quality fuel at a high volume, since there aren't national chains in my area. In most cases, the owner or manager can tell me exactly what's in the tank, and I always purchase 100% #2 Diesel with no BioDiesel. I occasionally use the AMSOil diesel additive, but so infrequently that I've only gone through 64 ounces of it over the 55k I've owned the car. I suspect that loose intake clamps may have been to blame for the sensor issues, and I haven't had any more fail since I tightened the intake clamps. The new failure is a DEF system problem, though, which would be unrelated to intake air, fuel, or oil. It's just that there are too many complex parts on this system so there are bound to be failures when that many parts and systems are involved.


How low do you let the DEF go before refilling? I am trying to determine if there is a correlation to running it low and burning out the heater.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

diesel said:


> How low do you let the DEF go before refilling? I am trying to determine if there is a correlation to running it low and burning out the heater.


I usually let it get below 35% before refilling, rather than doing it every oil change, but I've never let it go below 20%.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

revjpeterson said:


> I usually let it get below 35% before refilling, rather than doing it every oil change, but I've never let it go below 20%.


Well, that blows my theory about the heater cooking itself in very low DEF.


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## smkn600ctd (Dec 16, 2013)

Finally picked up mine after being at the dealer over a week. They replaced the fuse block and the entire harness attached to it. The harness and block are one part number. So hopefully it's finally fixed. 

But there is always a but...they scratched the panel above the left ac rotary switch...so they get to fix that now too


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

smkn600ctd said:


> Finally picked up mine after being at the dealer over a week. They replaced the fuse block and the entire harness attached to it. The harness and block are one part number. So hopefully it's finally fixed.
> 
> But there is always a but...they scratched the panel above the left ac rotary switch...so they get to fix that now too


Good luck and keep us posted.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

jkhawaii said:


> oh. How's the CD player? You don't have young children that like to put coins inside do you? May not apply to your vehicle but I've seen that quite a few times. Most of the time fuses would blow.


I'll check the CD, though I have no children at home.
Thanks for the input.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

The vehicle goes back into the dealer tomorrow to see if they can find my electric problem. I found a corroded pin on the rear collision module located inside the rear bumper on the passenger side. Just one pin corroded which I believed was caused by the poor ground.
Could be wrong, but a bad ground creates all kinds of electric problems. I waited for my vacation before taking it back to the dealer so I could avoid needing a rental car.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

NH_Diesel said:


> The vehicle goes back into the dealer tomorrow to see if they can find my electric problem. I found a corroded pin on the rear collision module located inside the rear bumper on the passenger side. Just one pin corroded which I believed was caused by the poor ground.
> Could be wrong, but a bad ground creates all kinds of electric problems. I waited for my vacation before taking it back to the dealer so I could avoid needing a rental car.


That sounds like a needle in a haystack type of find!


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Well I'm back from vacation and picked up my vehicle Friday from the dealer. The dealer says that both rear "Frt/Rear/Side Object Modules" and the wiring harness need to be replaced due to corrosion. My Nav/Radio display was fixed by removing the display and checking the plugs and wires. I believe my problem was the result of pinched wire from previous dealer troubleshooting (MHO). They spent 1.5 days ripping the vehicle apart suspecting BCMs before they changed the ground wire. 
Bottom line is I own a vehicle less than 3 years old with electrical connections corroded beyond repair. The estimate to replace the modules and harness is over $1,000 with labor to possibly resolve my electrically issue. I hope no other Cruze owner experiences this problem. Spending the extra cash on the LTZ trim is not looking like such a good idea. I put a lot of miles on my Cruze Diesel and don't expect Chevy to warranty everything, but electrical corrosion on a 2014 should not happen. 
Now my driver's blind zone alert is on constantly draining my battery. I can't win with this vehicle.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Ouch! Sorry to hear.

Any idea why so much corrosion? You are the first to report something like this, at least in the diesel section.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

NH_Diesel said:


> Now my driver's blind zone alert is on constantly draining my battery. I can't win with this vehicle.


I think a few others have reported problems with the blind spot alert. It's in the rear bumper - right where the rear tires would throw slush. 

If you're talking about the wiring harness in the rear bumper, I can see that being a problem due to exposure to the elements. But stuff inside the car shouldn't be an issue.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

For whatever reason, some dealers refuse to buy the terminal repair kit for the connectors in the photo.

It contains all the male and female pins as well as the tools for removing them from the plastic connectors.

NH_Diesel.....start calling different GM (not just Chevrolet) dealers and I'm sure you'll hit one that has the kit.......with someone intelligent enough to use it.

The kit was created just so that the harnesses can be repaired to avoid complete replacement.

Rob


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Robby said:


> For whatever reason, some dealers refuse to buy the terminal repair kit for the connectors in the photo.
> 
> It contains all the male and female pins as well as the tools for removing them from the plastic connectors.
> 
> ...



Robby,

Thanks for the info concerning the terminal repair kit. The car itself is great, but the location of the wiring harness and sensors for people living in snowy regions of the country can become a problem. The car itself handles great in the snow with snow tires and pretty good with all season touring tires.


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## NH_Diesel (Nov 6, 2013)

Update:
Replaced rear bumper wiring harness, and both rear collision modules. The harness and module on the drivers rear side had severe corrosion, the passenger's side showed moderate corrosion. Now the nav/radio display is functioning as well as the parking assist sensors. The side collision avoidance and blind zone detection system is still not functioning. I don't know if the system needs to be reset at the dealer or if I now need to replace a BCM. It's obvious that I haven't spent enough money to fix this problem. 
Again, love the diesel engine but the electronics package continues to haunt me!


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

NH_Diesel said:


> Update:
> Replaced rear bumper wiring harness, and both rear collision modules. The harness and module on the drivers rear side had severe corrosion, the passenger's side showed moderate corrosion. Now the nav/radio display is functioning as well as the parking assist sensors. The side collision avoidance and blind zone detection system is still not functioning. I don't know if the system needs to be reset at the dealer or if I now need to replace a BCM. It's obvious that I haven't spent enough money to fix this problem.
> Again, love the diesel engine but the electronics package continues to haunt me!


Sorry to hear you're still having issues and thanks for the update. I am glad I got a base model with no options!


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