# 2014 diesel



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

nobody has 300,000 miles yet

bunch have 150-250

im only doing 18,000 miles a year, so ill be 200+ in another 5yrs

i eggspect the car to keep goin, i should retired by then, yearly miles will drop

@Gator probably has the most


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'd say as long as you keep up the maintenance and make sure the salt stays off the car, it should last basically as long as you'd like it to. Cars really don't have quite the "finite" lifespan that they used to in years past - ****, even my '98 Cavalier was at 258k miles when I got rid of that, and I only did so because it picked a fight with a fire hydrant.


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

If it isn't nickle and diming you to death in maintenance cost, keep driving.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

You have a great car. Do the timing belt at 200k and drive it another 100k. 

Even if you had something major like a transmission or emissions issue, it’d still be worth it.

Spending $30k+ for a new car would a horrible investment especially when the one ya got is only 6 yrs old. 

But hey, it’s your choice......


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## Longhauldiesel1 (Jan 16, 2020)

Well it seems as if all your concensus is the same as mine. I have put all the recommended changes plus some to the car. I'm interested to find out how long and how many miles it will last.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> I'd say as long as you keep up the maintenance and make sure the salt stays off the car, it should last basically as long as you'd like it to. Cars really don't have quite the "finite" lifespan that they used to in years past - ****, even my '98 Cavalier was at 258k miles when I got rid of that, and I only did so because it picked a fight with a fire hydrant.


I think I can take it.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Regular maintenance. No salt or decent under washing... There isn't really any reason it will fail.

When it comes to selling used car the value of it is not proportional to what its really worth to you.

Some things I would expect to fail at that mileage are the NOx sensor 2, if it hasn't already. And the welding to the NOx catalyst itself which can just be repaired by paying someone $50 to reweld it.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> I think I can take it.


Oh, nothing left to take - the car ripped that bitch (cast iron) out of the ground and threw it like five feet.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

The motor will easily outlast the car. Diesels are pretty stout. 

I’ve got a Cummins with 270k miles that runs like day 1...and I work it pretty hard. That’s what sold me on the small car diesel. I’d still have my 182k Jetta TDI if VW hadn’t screwed the pooch with the EPA. 

But hey, I ended up with the CTD...a BIG improvement. Got almost 140k on it now and expect to go another 140k or longer. 

Stay on your maintenance and it’ll pay in the long run, especially with your high mileage driving pattern. Happy Cruzin’.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Oh, nothing left to take - the car ripped that bitch (cast iron) out of the ground and threw it like five feet.


If you’re going to hit something, make sure you hit it hard and show it who’s boss. Mission accomplished.... casualties moderate.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> If you’re going to hit something, make sure you hit it hard and show it who’s boss. Mission accomplished.... casualties moderate.


She showed it who was boss:










If only she wasn't mortally wounded in the process!


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> She showed it who was boss:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Gone but not forgotten. She fought bravely and won. We salute her fight.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I have around 135k on mine and plan to take it to 175k or so to get rid of it before it looses all it's value. But the reality is a new car or newer used car will cost you more than any repair your current car will require, so financially it's more responsible to just keep driving your current car.

Once the car's value is down to the 2-3k range and requires a transmission or diesel system replacement, that may be the time to get rid of it but I would hope to have sold it by then to not lose the existing value. However, a 2-3k transmission job is still cheaper than even a newer used car.

The other consideration is how often it breaks down. Once or twice a year is probably OK to keep repairing it since that's actually not that frequent, but if you are breaking down every few months then it's probably time to move on.


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## Mark cruze diesel (Oct 3, 2019)

Rivergoer said:


> You have a great car. Do the timing belt at 200k and drive it another 100k.
> 
> Even if you had something major like a transmission or emissions issue, it’d still be worth it.
> 
> ...


When's the timing belt due on a CTD? I recently got a car with 153k and I don't know if the timing belt has been done. I was thinking they were due at 90k


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Mark cruze diesel said:


> When's the timing belt due on a CTD? I recently got a car with 153k and I don't know if the timing belt has been done. I was thinking they were due at 90k


Every 97000 miles.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

I'm at 138k on mine. Originally planned to hand it over to my daughter with a quarter-million on the odometer when she turns 16. Depending on what options are on the used market for me in 3 years, I might hold onto it a bit longer and hold onto my wife's old Suburban for her to drive instead. 

In the past, beyond expected steering/suspension repairs that come from driving on horrible roads, the only problems I've had on it have been with the emissions system and a couple minor auxiliary items like the wiper motor. The only concern I have going forward is the Transmission. If I ever have opportunity to get a good deal on one, I'll probably throw it in the corner of the garage for when the time comes. If I can find a fluid additive to remedy the occasionally-sticking 5-4 and stop-neutral solenoids, though, or if they don't worsen to the point they break something else when they stick, that might even last. Overall, I'm expecting to easily get 400-500k out of it before my daughter moves on from it at the end of med or grad school. Maybe it'll even have enough life left in it that she can pass it down to her youngest sister after that.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> If I can find a fluid additive to remedy the occasionally-sticking 5-4 and stop-neutral solenoids


Let us know if you find a fix - I presume your neutral-stop solenoid leads to it slamming into drive after you try to get going from a stop?

The 5-4 shift - it sticks on the downshift? Or is it just really jerky?


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

MP81 said:


> Let us know if you find a fix - I presume your neutral-stop solenoid leads to it slamming into drive after you try to get going from a stop?
> 
> The 5-4 shift - it sticks on the downshift? Or is it just really jerky?


Yes. The Neutral-stop stick is a delay in going back into gear when starting to move from a stop, followed by a slam that has me looking in the rear view mirror to see if I was rear-ended. The most common time for it to happen is after a moderate or longer (10+ miles) time at a constant speed, followed by a stop at a traffic light. (For example, if I would drive the expressway across town, then stop at a light at the bottom of an exit ramp. It almost always happens when the temperature is 55 or higher outside. So, I went months, from November through March without an incident, but in the past couple weeks, it has returned. It's always had the rough 5-4 downshift since new, and it improved somewhat with the switch to AMSOil transmission fluid around 40k. The more dramatic intermittent 5-4 kick showed up around 90k, around the same time as the stop-neutral stick, and if one occurs, I can usually anticipate that the other will follow it at the next opportunity, and they won't go away until the powertrain has cooled to to at or near ambient temperature. I also noticed that it seemed to help a little when I added an extra couple tenths of a liter on the previous fluid change

My plan is on the next drain/fill of the transmission (hopefully this week) to add a 15 or 20 ounce bottle of LubeGard Platinum at the end of the level-setting process, instead of adding the 0.4 liters of fluid. I'm sure the AMSOil experts would say not to do this, but the fluid alone hasn't been eliminating this problem, the LubeGard is labelled as compatible with AW-1 spec fluid, and I have had some good experience in the past with this product un-sticking things in transmissions. The Lucas Oil transmission additive also looks like it could do what's needed, but my past experience with the LubeGard has me leaning toward giving that a try first.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yup - we've noticed the neutral/stop issue only really happens when it is warmer out - basically all of winter it does not have the issue at all. The second it's warmer out? Whiplash.

The 5-4 issue sounds similar to what we have, as well - generally in warmer weather as well - though I'm not sure if it's on 5-4 or 4-3. Either way, it's an extremely rough downshift.

The other more pressing issue we have right now is the very loud clicking when the TC locks and unlocks in 4th gear - which it appears to do just as you roll to a stop, as well.

We have AMSOIL fluid as well, and it didn't seem to help much, if at all. But if it's as you're thinking, stuck solenoids, then I expect that's why.

Very curious to see how that works out for you. Have you checked your trans lines to make sure they're not leaking - ours were at one point, prior to it getting AMSOIL, and I'm wondering if the lower fluid level led to some/all of these issues (I don't _think_ they were happening until after I replaced the cooler lines and the fluid).


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

A bit late into this thread, but I have a 2012 Holden Cruze diesel and having owned it from new it has only 78,000km on the clock, about 49,000 miles. I am retired and bought it so I could retire on a fairly new car. I have no issues with it and as it has chain driven cams I don't have any timing belt to worry about. I have a question about fuel gelling, as we are nearly into our winter months here. How cold does it have to get before summer fuel gels? I ask because it is about 6 weeks since I last filled up and the tank is still full of summer fuel. It is going to be 6C (42F) at night and soon will get to around 0C, will this be low enough to cause gelling?


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## Rebooter (Mar 27, 2020)

Diesel don't start gelling until -18C, don't worry.


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## mkohan (Dec 19, 2015)

Gelled fuel can be a frustrating problem. You might consider driving it some and putting in winter fuel or put some anti gel in the tank.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Thank you for that information. Here in Sydney Australia 0C is about as cold as it ever gets and then only at night. We have been self isolated for over a month now and have only driven to the supermarket a couple of times covering about 30km since my last fillup. Some of our restrictions are being lifted today (Friday) and things are starting to be freed up after the Corona virus pandemic. The restrictions the government applied have worked really well here and while the effects will last a long time so far less than 100 people have died Australia wide from the virus. I hope to do more driving in the next week or two.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

The smaller fuel system of the cruze is a bit more resistant to gelling than a full size truck. If the car starts it's unlikely you will have a problem.

A big problem is water separating in the fuel lines and freezing entirely. In which case the car just won't start or not start as easily. But you won't really see that problem unless the car sits still for multiple days.


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## Sperry (Aug 3, 2013)

Coming up on 220,000 miles and only had 1 emissions problem. DEF heater went , I’ve had a few check engine lights come on but they go out after a while . Last code was for an oxygen sensor but the dealer cleared it while doing the timing belt and it hasn’t come back since . I keep thinking about getting another car but this one still runs too good.


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