# Defective Chevy Cruze 1.4 Turbo



## Blueblackcruze (Feb 1, 2012)

I have a 2012 Cruze LT 1.4 Turbo with the RS package. Car was great up to about 2,200 miles where it just started getting slower in performance and poor acceleration in full throttle or part throttle. Almost got hit by an 18 wheeler twice since the car would not accelerate. The rpm's rev'd up but the car went no faster. Many possibilities I have been looking at and the dealer has been no help 4 times. Now about to go to another dealer. Its possible the transmission is slipping or not communicating properly with the engine. Other thoughts are that its the turbo charger or waste gate actuator. It almost feels as if it just dumps out all the boost. I am going to have to do my own diagnostics and T-tap a boost gauge to see if it still makes boost when accelerating in part throttle or full throttle. The traction control light did come on once for a few seconds while on the highway so obviously the tires were not slipping. I am going to have to get to the bottom of this myself because I dont expect any positive help from the dealer or GM. But I will be logging all of my time and someone is going to pay for the bill. I did not buy a brand new car to get jerked around. I even let the dealer know that I have a lot of experience with turbo charged vehicles and I use to diagnose some turbo car problems for Porsche but I guess they feel they are smarter then I am or that my detailed explanation of the problem is a fabrication. I even took photos of the gauge cluster mpg readings on a recent road trip to FL and the car was getting about 27mpg hwy at 61 to 65 mph and before I started having the problem I was getting 32 to 35 at same or higher speeds and there was no acceleration or hesitation problems. And it was in 85 to 95 degree temperatures. The car performed worse in cooler temperatures which is not suppose to happen in a turbo charged car. Turbos like cooler air and vehicles are suppose to perform better with the cooler temps. So there is something wrong with one or multiple mechanical parts or sensors. This is my first time giving a GM product a try and trying to support the U.S. economy but I am very disappointed. And having GM Customer care from the Phillipeans contact me does not sit well with me either. I hope some of us can get our notes together and find out whats going on with these cars. And I just remembered one day when I accelerated and then let off the gas and the rpms hung for about 3 or 4 seconds before they dropped down. Sounds like slipping tranny issue which is explaining a lot of the other driveability issues. After hearing that so many others are having the same problems I dont think I even want a replacement car. GM can refund me and I will take my business elsewhere. I hope they do the right thing to make me happy otherwise I will be gathering up all the rest of you with the same problems and we will let GM know that we dont have the time or safety concerns to waste in a matter like this. Maybe need to contact NTSB to launch an investigation???


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

Four failed repairs is a Lemon Law candidate in my state. Where is the Chevy Social Media Representative when you really need one? I would have been to a second dealer's service department after two failed attempts by the first one. It certainly doesn't cost anything but your time to file with NHTSA. 
Recall Results | Safercar.gov | NHTSA


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

You should note that these problems aren't the norm. They are factory flukes or lemons, which is why you are protected by a lemon law. There would be a massive influx of users into this forum if these problems were rampant on every cruze made. It should also be worth noting that most people wouldn't join a forum like this if they have no problems. Instead, you will find a few people joining the forum to vent problems and see if anyone else has had such a thing happen to them. Considering the number of Cruzes sold, I'd say the problems reported here are mild.

I would advise taking the car to another dealer and determining the lemon law regulations for your state.


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## cruzeman (Mar 13, 2011)

You most likely have to mail gm a letter stating you are giving them one final attempt to repair the car or it will fall under the lemon law. Check your states website for details.


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## zr1000a1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Assuming it is a 6-speed auto, you have checked the fluid level while warm, no leaks, you are not driving in manual mode and bouncing off a soft or hard rev limiter (do not know if they have them), have experimented in manual mode to see if it duplicates, watched tach to compare how fast and what rpm you top out at before it auto shifts or power goes away, then my guess would be it is either disengaging or there is a torque converter problem. Does the rpm's climb like it did before the problems, just no power? 
Watching a boost gauge would be helpful in diagnosing too. A friend's 1987 Buick Regal T type turbo limited was always popping off the tube from the turbo to the intake manifold, causing problems.
A half-shaft not seated properly might also cause some of this, but there would probably be leaks and a massive failure soon.

EDIT:
I am making assumptions that with four visits to the dealer they applied all firmware updates and you are not throwing any codes.
Also are you using premium top tier gas with at least 91 octane to see if you are not possibly pinging so bad that timing has been curved? Maybe a bad tank of gas?
**Every time traction control comes on it reduces power or applies front brakes, depending on system, until you regain traction. Electronic stability control usually also will apply brakes at various wheels, but not sure which exact system that the Chevrolet Cruze uses. The ability to turn off traction control and or electronic stability control temporarily until you hit a specified speed (usually 35) or until next start-up is a real plus on certain cars. Comes in real handy when pulling out at intersections, instead of losing all power when traffic is coming or waiting.
Check to see if tires are not overinflated. This will cause the wheels to break lose prematurely and trigger traction control.


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## wbwing (Feb 23, 2011)

But have you contacted GM/Chevrolet Customer Service directly? GM is serious about improving their customer service experience and you should really give them a try. They can work with dealers to get your car properly checked out. I would take it to a different dealer, unfortunately, not all dealers have the same standards for service. Once again, I really think you should give Chevrolet Customer Service a try before you start digging into things yourself. That may actually void your warranty.

Customer Assistance - 1.800-222-1020 8am - 9pm EST Monday to Saturday


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## fastdriver (Jan 7, 2011)

blackbluecruze-

Sorry to hear about your problems. I have a few issues with my car too, but it's a lease and as long as it keeps running, I'll stay away from the dealer except for oil changes and tire rotations which are far and few between with the amount of miles I put on the car. My car will be a year old on 2/14 and I only have 6,200 miles.

Some advice from one who had MAJOR issues with my 1999 "MOTOR TREND CAR of the YEAR", Chrysler 300M. First off, document EVERYTHING! Every time the car goes in to the dealer, make sure they write on the slip what you are complaining about AND make sure you get a copy of the slip when you pick up the car. Keep notes on when you call them and what they say and who you spoke to. Also, FORGET "customer service"! They are TOTALLY useless for major problems. Besides, they are outsourced to different companies. I know that Buick "customer service" is handled by IBM! Secondly, maybe to follow protocol, tell the dealer that you want the factory rep from the Chevy zone office to come in and check the car and speak to him. I found with my Chrysler that they were totally USELESS yuppies who sided with the dealer! After all, who wines and dines them when they come down to the dealer?

There was no way that I could have filed for Lemon Law because the problems were too varied. There wasn't ONE problem that I could file for. One of the major problems was the tires. They were defective and the car pulled to the left INSTANTLY on the highway no matter what lane I was in. I let 3 different dealers try to fix the problem for 10 1/2 months. They had more excuses than Lady Gaga has outfits! I finally decided to call the tire company directly. They had me take the car to their factory dealer and found that the tires were defective. They replaced all four free of charge. NO PROBLEM! The car was as straight as an arrow after that! The tires were not warranteed by Chrysler. The dealers did EVERYTHING from rotating tires, balancing and aligning the car, replacing the rack and pinion steering etc. NOT one of them EVER said anything about the tires possibly being defective. I never said anything because I didn't want them to think that I was being a wise guy. When my patience was gone, then I took action. As for all the other problems that the dealer was not willing to address, I called Chrysler Corporate in Auburn Hills DIRECTLY. THAT'S when I got action! They could NOT believe what I was telling them about the dealer and the factory reps! I told them that if I stayed up all night I could not come up with stories like I was telling them. One factory rep got fired because he would NOT help me despite what corporate told him to do!

SO, my advice to you is to call GM Corporate in Detroit- 313-556-5000 is their number I believe. If you want to go the Lemon Law route, then check here for your state. 

Lemon Law Statutes and Guides - State Lemon Laws

Whatever you do, good luck and keep us posted as to what happens. ONE other thing that you have at your disposal nowadays that I did NOT have back in 1999 is *FACEBOOK!* You can post your problems there and get INSTANT recognition from people all over the world including GM! You could threaten GM with that if they remain unwilling to help you!


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## MinnluvsCruze (Jan 13, 2012)

Oh wow, glad you posted this, I am having the SAME TROUBLE!!! The thing doesn't move like it used to, if I kick it to pass, the thing revs and does nothing hardly at all. Scary to drive on freeway, I have to take mine in now. UGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was fine until about 2,000 miles too. I'm disappointed all around with Cruze. Too many issues! let us know what you find out.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

What happened to Good old Stacy the GM Customer Service rep that was on this forum? If she was real, she certainly would be interested in this!!!!!


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## zr1000a1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Any updates? Is it a problem with the turbo, boost, wastegate, etc. or a transmission problem or other?
here are a couple sites for diagnosing turbos:

Common Turbo Problems neat chart to help diagnose.

Turbocharger Diagnosis & Repair site has lots of info for diagnosing many things.

Edit:
They say to idle a turbo charged car for a minute or two before shutting off to prevent or at least delay problems.

Also, does anybody know if there are specific instructions on oil changes of this turbo engine to make sure that turbo is filled with clean oil and everything is primed without air pockets? Or is it just coolant cooled?

Think I just answered my own question. Yeah!
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/10-e...ssion/1414-engine-coolant-turbo-opinions.html
way to go Aarcuda!

and

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/544-cruze-oil-change-1-4t-18.html


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Even in central Wisconsin have a ton of Chevy dealers in every little town, purchased my Cruze from a one that has a good reputation for good service. A very important consideration even if I had to pay a hundred bucks more of the thing.

If that happened to me, wouldn't dare put a wrench to it, good way to void the warranty. From your description, not even sure what the problem is, but if you are in gear with an AT and the engine revs up, sure sounds like AT problems. Most obvious is low on AT fluild. With low AT fluid an AT can get wrecked in a very short time, hydraulic pressure is low and clutch plates slip, get red hot and burn. Only takes a couple of minutes of this.

Read someplace with a crazy reason given, someone poured windshield wiper fluid in the AT dipstick hole and for that reason, got rid of the dipstick. Have to get the vehicle up on a level hoist, remove a side plug and pump in fluid until it drips down into your face. Was your AT level ever checked? If you did have slippage, transmission is already shot, need a brand new one.

With no AT slippage and lack of engine power, could be one of a thousand things with all that electronic control stuff, fuel, ignition, and variable valve timing, plus turbo problems.

Its not your problem, but Chevy's problem, least until your warranty expires, but even after then, you have rights that vary from state to state.


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## zr1000a1 (Jan 25, 2012)

Good post. I totally forgot there is no transmission dipstick in the Cruze. So the proper procedure is to probably check when completely cooled down, car level, fill till starts to drip out of side plug hole? 

Definitely would want the dealer to do everything under warranty.


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## sheleb1 (Sep 16, 2011)

I have the same problem with lack of power with my ’11 1.4L AT, when the engine hasn’t completely warmed up to operating temp. Its especially more noticeable with cold winter temperatures than in the summer. Even after running it a couple of minutes, pulling into fast moving traffic, from a stop, on a side street is scary. I never know how much I should step on the gas. Sometimes pressing the gas more will actually make the car accelerate slower! I’ve had a few occasions where I felt that I’ve almost come to a complete stop, half way into the turn! So now I just have to wait for a big break in traffic, or let the car sit and warm up completely before I leave for work. I’ve never had this issue (to this degree at least) with any of the 7 other cars that I’ve owned.

In my case, I don’t think that there’s anything ‘wrong’ with this car. Unfortunately, I think that’s just the way it was designed. It seems that when the engine hasn’t warmed up completely, it revs very high, even when not being pushed very hard. And in the 3,000-4,000 rpm range there is just very little power coming from this engine. Also, I think the transmission, either slipping or searching for the right gear, may have something to do with it.

I have tried using the manual (sport?) mode, but I find that coming from a complete stop, I have to be extremely fast in up shifting from 1[SUP]st[/SUP] to 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear. Its too much messing around when trying to merge into high volume traffic. Next time I’m shopping around for a new car, I’ll know to make sure I take the test drives with a cold engine; not one that the dealer has had idling for a while before I arrive.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Had to goose my 2012 2LT MT this morning after only driving two blocks in 9*F weather to avoid hitting an idiot that tried to cut me off. Don't like to do that with a cold engine, even a warm one, but the Cruze with a 1.4L took off like a bat out of ****.

If your Cruze won't take off when cold, something is wrong with it. Car is in open loop mode at this point, and don't buy that crap just because you don't have a check engine lamp on, everything is okay. Darn things can only detect an open or a short. A sensor like the MAP or MAF can be way out of tolerance and not generate a code. See your dealer.


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## kkilburn (Mar 1, 2011)

The 6T40 Transmission is a huge piece of crap, and GM knows it, but will do nothing about it. Your best bet is to get rid of the car as fast as you can, before you get screwed on depreciation. I basically had the same problem. I wouldn't ever dare and try to pull into traffic if the car wasn't 100% warmed up. I had too many close calls of almost being hit. If the car is cold you basically have to go 3/4 throttle or more to avoid being hit, and if you give it any more gas, you risk having turbo problems in the future. It's a lose-lose situation. Good luck. My advice would be to get off the sinking Cruze ship.


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## macumbee (Feb 10, 2012)

I have a 2011 Cruze bought in June. 3 months after I had it the steering went out, it was in the shop for almost 2 weeks. About 2 months after that I had to have a new compressor. 2 months after that my brakes go out. Is there anything I can do?? Everytime I take my car in they have it for atleast a week. I am so **** frustrated!!!


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Snap, makes me kinda glad I have a manual transmission and a boost readout. Oh, and a working clutch, so far. Downshift and floor it, the car goes. If the car stops making boost, I'll know it by glancing at the gauge. 

Boost gauge is a must in these cars. Glad I have one on my ScanGauge II.


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## MonkeyRench (Feb 10, 2012)

kkilburn said:


> The 6T40 Transmission is a huge piece of crap, and GM knows it, but will do nothing about it. Your best bet is to get rid of the car as fast as you can, before you get screwed on depreciation. I basically had the same problem. I wouldn't ever dare and try to pull into traffic if the car wasn't 100% warmed up. I had too many close calls of almost being hit. If the car is cold you basically have to go 3/4 throttle or more to avoid being hit, and if you give it any more gas, you risk having turbo problems in the future. It's a lose-lose situation. Good luck. My advice would be to get off the sinking Cruze ship.


It's not the trans that crap. It's the programming in the TCM that is crap. That is what is causing the delay when you hit the gas. Also might be the above stated problem of the thread. Also if you are getting your traction light at highway speeds, then your car is pulling timing out by huge amounts thus causing your power loss. Everything that you are describing isn't mechanical in my opinion it's tuning related. It sucks to know, but if the dealer won't reflash an update to both the ECM and the TCM, your best bet maybe to have an aftermarket tune. The factory tuning is another reason for you having to go 3/4 throttle to wait for a downshift. It's part of the "gas saving" tune that GM uses.


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## kkilburn (Mar 1, 2011)

I don't really believe its the "gas saving tune". GM has multiple cars that can achieve the same gas mileage while still providing safety and performance. No one should have to buy an aftermarket tune to fix their car (transmission). My Cobalt ran better than the Cruze. I didn't have to wait 20 minutes for the car to warm up before I wasn't nervous about driving in traffic.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

kkilburn said:


> I don't really believe its the "gas saving tune". GM has multiple cars that can achieve the same gas mileage while still providing safety and performance. No one should have to buy an aftermarket tune to fix their car (transmission). My Cobalt ran better than the Cruze. I didn't have to wait 20 minutes for the car to warm up before I wasn't nervous about driving in traffic.


Just curious about your experience. Have you had the car to more than one dealership? I think there are a lot of Chevy dealers that are way behind the learning curve on Cruze service. 

I also am convinced that the 2011 Cruze software was not up to par, and a great many of those issues were corrected with the 2012 MY. Pardon my I/T background, but it almost looks like the 2011 software was a Beta version. You would think that Chevy would come out with a software update package for the 2011s to correct things. Maybe they did, and you have to request it to get the updates? After all that's the way Microsoft does it. They pump out largely untested software packages and then fix things with a Service Pack later on, after the customer set wrings out the problems for them.

Oh, never mind, you traded your 2011 Cruze in.


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## kkilburn (Mar 1, 2011)

Yeah, I had my Cruze taken to 3 different dealerships. Varying across the state of Michigan. It was in the shop 12 times. I was even given three different loaner Cruzes when my car was in the shop. Two were 2012 1.8L and one was a 2012 1.4L. All of them had terrible transmissions also. I just cannot understand how I can feel the transmission so much that I have to take it in to the dealership, they go for a ride and say its fine. GM definetly dropped the ball on this car. I had the newest BCM and TCM updates as well.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Blueblackcruze said:


> I have a 2012 Cruze LT 1.4 Turbo with the RS package. Car was great up to about 2,200 miles where it just started getting slower in performance and poor acceleration in full throttle or part throttle. Almost got hit by an 18 wheeler twice since the car would not accelerate. The rpm's rev'd up but the car went no faster. Many possibilities I have been looking at and the dealer has been no help 4 times. Now about to go to another dealer. Its possible the transmission is slipping or not communicating properly with the engine. Other thoughts are that its the turbo charger or waste gate actuator. It almost feels as if it just dumps out all the boost. I am going to have to do my own diagnostics and T-tap a boost gauge to see if it still makes boost when accelerating in part throttle or full throttle. The traction control light did come on once for a few seconds while on the highway so obviously the tires were not slipping. I am going to have to get to the bottom of this myself because I dont expect any positive help from the dealer or GM. But I will be logging all of my time and someone is going to pay for the bill. I did not buy a brand new car to get jerked around. I even let the dealer know that I have a lot of experience with turbo charged vehicles and I use to diagnose some turbo car problems for Porsche but I guess they feel they are smarter then I am or that my detailed explanation of the problem is a fabrication. I even took photos of the gauge cluster mpg readings on a recent road trip to FL and the car was getting about 27mpg hwy at 61 to 65 mph and before I started having the problem I was getting 32 to 35 at same or higher speeds and there was no acceleration or hesitation problems. And it was in 85 to 95 degree temperatures. The car performed worse in cooler temperatures which is not suppose to happen in a turbo charged car. Turbos like cooler air and vehicles are suppose to perform better with the cooler temps. So there is something wrong with one or multiple mechanical parts or sensors. This is my first time giving a GM product a try and trying to support the U.S. economy but I am very disappointed. And having GM Customer care from the Phillipeans contact me does not sit well with me either. I hope some of us can get our notes together and find out whats going on with these cars. And I just remembered one day when I accelerated and then let off the gas and the rpms hung for about 3 or 4 seconds before they dropped down. Sounds like slipping tranny issue which is explaining a lot of the other driveability issues. After hearing that so many others are having the same problems I dont think I even want a replacement car. GM can refund me and I will take my business elsewhere. I hope they do the right thing to make me happy otherwise I will be gathering up all the rest of you with the same problems and we will let GM know that we dont have the time or safety concerns to waste in a matter like this. Maybe need to contact NTSB to launch an investigation???


Blueblackcruze,
I would like to apologize for the issues that you are experiencing with your Cruze. I have been experiencing some technical issues the last couple of weeks on this forum or I would have responded sooner. I would like to look into this for you. Can you please send me a PM with your personal information (full name, address, and phone number), VIN number, dealership that you are working with as well as your current mileage? I look forward to hearing back from you as well as assisting you with these issues.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

sheleb1 said:


> I have the same problem with lack of power with my ’11 1.4L AT, when the engine hasn’t completely warmed up to operating temp. Its especially more noticeable with cold winter temperatures than in the summer. Even after running it a couple of minutes, pulling into fast moving traffic, from a stop, on a side street is scary. I never know how much I should step on the gas. Sometimes pressing the gas more will actually make the car accelerate slower! I’ve had a few occasions where I felt that I’ve almost come to a complete stop, half way into the turn! So now I just have to wait for a big break in traffic, or let the car sit and warm up completely before I leave for work. I’ve never had this issue (to this degree at least) with any of the 7 other cars that I’ve owned.
> 
> In my case, I don’t think that there’s anything ‘wrong’ with this car. Unfortunately, I think that’s just the way it was designed. It seems that when the engine hasn’t warmed up completely, it revs very high, even when not being pushed very hard. And in the 3,000-4,000 rpm range there is just very little power coming from this engine. Also, I think the transmission, either slipping or searching for the right gear, may have something to do with it.
> 
> I have tried using the manual (sport?) mode, but I find that coming from a complete stop, I have to be extremely fast in up shifting from 1[SUP]st[/SUP] to 5[SUP]th[/SUP] gear. Its too much messing around when trying to merge into high volume traffic. Next time I’m shopping around for a new car, I’ll know to make sure I take the test drives with a cold engine; not one that the dealer has had idling for a while before I arrive.



sheleb1,
I would suggest that you take your vehicle into your local dealership and have them look into this for you. They should be able to run some diagnostic test to make sure everything is running properly. Please keep me informed on the outcome of your visit to the dealership. If you have any additional questions please feel free to message me.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## turboGP1966 (Aug 7, 2014)

There is a known issue with the wastegate actuator shaft bushing wearing beyond 0.8mm and jamming. That kills boost down to about 5PSI Max as the turbo struggles to pressure an intact tract with a giant hole in it. I know because mine did it over the weekend. I have an Edge CS and they can have it back when they pry it from my cold dead hands. I used it several times to debate the heck out of the BMW dealer when my piece of crap 08 CooperS was back in for repairs again, and it showed me not only that the boost dropped to crap but finally when the MIL clicked on, exactly what the code was and what it meant. I would recommend an ALDL plug-in guage for anyone who plans on keeping a modern car any length of time. Get them to check for P0299 or P0206. Im pretty sure its not your trans.


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## lrussell07 (Jul 26, 2015)

Having the exact same issues with my 2013 Chevy Cruze R/T. Took it to a dealership and they said my Turbo was bad. They changed it, but it has not fixed the problem. It appears the wastegate is not fully engaging like it should and I have no power at all. I too have almost been rear ended. Tried turning Traction Control off and it ran better for a little bit, but now the problem has started again. Took it back to the dealership again and they say they can find nothing wrong with it. I have almost 50,000 miles and the issue started at about 49,000 miles, that means I have been driving my car with this issue for 1,000 miles now with no improvement. I am scared to drive the darn thing, but have not choice. What now? Am I just stuck with a car that I bought brand new and still paying on? Surely GM knows about this issue and is doing something to fix it.


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## mross (Nov 13, 2015)

*Cruze Turbo Problems*

We have a 2012 Chev Cruze ECO and we are on our third turbo - there is something wrong with this car. Chevy needs to fix this major car defect.


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## Teri (May 7, 2016)

I used to love my cruze Ltd. 3 waterpumps...1 New turbo...gaskets...valves.. Breakdowns....Thermostat...hoses etc and antifreeze and oil smells and heat and foggy Windows problems persist. Finally went to dealer and getting an irritated response like I did something wrong by be ing inconvenienced for past two years. Car is defective...trading it in for what its worth is a ripoff. What's wrong with Chevrolet? Don't they care? It is unfixable and that sucks! I've demonstrated that I want it fixed but why should I keep driving to dealer time and again and being without what I'm paying for. I was told "aren't we giving you a loaner" and you are over due for oil change to insinuate I am not maintaining it when it broke down less than 10 miles after being repaired and the turbo went...they changed the oil then . why should I be defending myself when I bought this car in good Faith. I'm not sure what to do next cept I'm mailing a letter to Chevy as they require. This car should be recalled.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Teri said:


> I used to love my cruze Ltd. 3 waterpumps...1 New turbo...gaskets...valves.. Breakdowns....Thermostat...hoses etc and antifreeze and oil smells and heat and foggy Windows problems persist. Finally went to dealer and getting an irritated response like I did something wrong by be ing inconvenienced for past two years. Car is defective...trading it in for what its worth is a ripoff. What's wrong with Chevrolet? Don't they care? I'm not sure what to do next cept I'm mailing a letter to Chevy as they require. This car should be recalled.


 What will the letter say? I can save you the postage, no letter is required to dump your Car. Cars break but let me ask you, how much out of pocket did you personally spend? Not sure what buying the car in good faith means, or why the CRUZE needs to be recalled. For what its worth G.M. seems to have a very proactive Warranty policy including loaners or rental cars. Not long ago only upper end manufacturers offered this perk. Let us know what you buy!


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## Pajoas (Jul 24, 2013)

My Cruze was horrible too, Worst car i ever owned I dumped it 2 years in with 30,000km in because I knew when the 3 year bumper to bumper was up I would never be able to afford to keep the thing on the road ( I basically bought the car then drove in to the chev service dept and never left the whole time I owned it) . According to my mechanic the 1.8L was the one to buy apparently they were rock solid it was the 1.4T that gave the problems and if you look in these forums its the 1.4T that does have the majority of issues . If I would have bought the 1.8l version I would be still driving it today


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Pajoas said:


> According to my mechanic the 1.8L was the one to buy apparently they were rock solid it was the 1.4T that gave the problems and if you look in these forums its the 1.4T that does have the majority of issues.


 The reason there is more issues reported with cruze 1.4T is 3/4 of the models that's the only engine available. Only the base model LS gets the 1.8L, so low volume in comparison. I had some initial issues with my 2012 1.4T, but put over 90,000 trouble free miles on it after that(one water pump replaced under warranty at 94,000 miles).


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Could try these guys if you still have this problem.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion/164978-http-www-lemonauto-com.html

Couldn't help me with my problem, didn't have three work orders, my dealers refused to look at my Cruze.

Claim it is 100% free. Even with a long discussion, wasn't charged.


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## rgenther (Jul 28, 2012)

You aren't the only one . . 
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion/92018-mechanical-nightmare.html


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## Debra neves (Jul 7, 2016)

I have a 2011 chevy cruze 1.4 lt engine with turbo boost. Driving on Highway took exit to freeway excelleration failed. Almost got run over by a truck. No smoking or noises. Took to dealer to get checked out. Dealer said turbo boost tubes disentegrated? And would have to replace whole turbo along with manifold and nuts bolt . $1558.00 there's been no smoking noise etc. Also said oil pan leaking needs new oil pan gasket. Part $21.00 total to replace $408.08 no smoke or any oil on ground where it is parked? I've been researching and found numerous people with turbo boost problems? Should get together and see if they will do recall on turbo boost


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Debra neves said:


> I have a 2011 chevy cruze 1.4 lt engine with turbo boost. Driving on Highway took exit to freeway excelleration failed. Almost got run over by a truck. No smoking or noises. Took to dealer to get checked out. Dealer said turbo boost tubes disentegrated? And would have to replace whole turbo along with manifold and nuts bolt . $1558.00 there's been no smoking noise etc. Also said oil pan leaking needs new oil pan gasket. Part $21.00 total to replace $408.08 no smoke or any oil on ground where it is parked? I've been researching and found numerous people with turbo boost problems? Should get together and see if they will do recall on turbo boost



We are very sorry to hear that you're experiencing a concern with your Cruze. If you send us your VIN, current mileage, contact information, and the involved dealership, we would be more than happy to look into this further for you.

Best,

Alexis A.
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Debra neves said:


> I have a 2011 chevy cruze 1.4 lt engine with turbo boost. Driving on Highway took exit to freeway excelleration failed. Almost got run over by a truck. No smoking or noises. Took to dealer to get checked out. Dealer said turbo boost tubes disentegrated? And would have to replace whole turbo along with manifold and nuts bolt . $1558.00 there's been no smoking noise etc. Also said oil pan leaking needs new oil pan gasket. Part $21.00 total to replace $408.08 no smoke or any oil on ground where it is parked? I've been researching and found numerous people with turbo boost problems? Should get together and see if they will do recall on turbo boost


Debra, the CRUZE comes with 3 year limited new car warranty, and 5 year/100K Powertrain coverage. A Turbo, especially a tiny non water cooled Turbo can go at anytime, I lost one in a Dodge after 2 months of brand new car ownership. Many of us purchase additional mechanical coverage contracts to insure against breakdowns. As far as I know a recall is only done if there is a defective or dangerous condition. A broken Turbo does not call for a worldwide recall of the CRUZE?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Eddy Cruze said:


> Debra, the CRUZE comes with 3 year limited new car warranty, and 5 year/100K Powertrain coverage. A Turbo, especially a tiny non water cooled Turbo can go at anytime, I lost one in a Dodge after 2 months of brand new car ownership. Many of us purchase additional mechanical coverage contracts to insure against breakdowns. As far as I know a recall is only done if there is a defective or dangerous condition. A broken Turbo does not call for a worldwide recall of the CRUZE?


It is water cooled (diesels are not). 

If a rubber (boost) pipe blew as the dealer suggests, replace the rubber pipe and continue on with your Cruzing. No need to replace the whole turbocharger.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

jblackburn said:


> It is water cooled (diesels are not).
> 
> If a rubber (boost) pipe blew as the dealer suggests, replace the rubber pipe and continue on with your Cruzing. No need to replace the whole turbocharger.


Yes I see it is Water/Oil cooled, my mistake. Turbos get very hot and are subject to failure although we don't read too many failure reports with 1.4T engine


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Eddy Cruze said:


> Yes I see it is Water/Oil cooled, my mistake. Turbos get very hot and are subject to failure although we don't read too many failure reports with 1.4T engine


There have been a fair number of them replaced under powertrain warranty - mostly for turbo underboost codes (P0299) related to wear on the wastegate pivot pin. It's not *common*, but it's not uncommon, either.

However, the way the statement was worded, it made it sound like it just blew a hole in a rubber hose and that the turbo itself wasn't that bad. I've done that numerous times with my previous car - just replace the hose and carry on.


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