# Gen2 Skid Plate?



## georgecdisc (Mar 7, 2018)

I had to buy a new one myself. I ended up hitting a large prickly rodent, ended up bending that access panel down. I purchased GM part # 39142248 for about $130 shipped from one of those online GM parts websites. I think the dealer wanted around $270. The part # is described as an "insulator" and fits my 2018 diesel hatchback MT. 

The new part is different than the old one - I was hoping to just swap over the access panel, but nope, they changed it. It now includes that missing front fastener. Hopefully this helps others, as finding images was impossible. The place I purchased from assured me it would fit my car otherwise it wouldn't show up in their catalog when I provided a VIN. No website would let me drill down to select it or show compatibility with my car - just the guy on the phone was able to confirm this.

I would've purchased a better shield if available, but I also could not find one.

Word of caution, the insulator shield is made with fiberglass, which I did not realize until after holding it up with my forearms while installing. I was quite itchy afterwards.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

For 162.00 plus shipping that would be a bit pricey, but it does say it will fit up to 2018.


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## JPinSTL (Jul 9, 2018)

Well at least the new replacement is improved. I put a request in with IDParts about sourcing something sturdier from across the Pond. The dealer quote was $250 installed so likely not TOO BAD of a price considering. 

I'm thinking since I still have the flap a short section of piano hinge and some stainless steel pop-rivets on the front leading edge would be an improvement. I'm also thinking the existing one as a pattern, my plasma cutter, and some sheet metal to make a real skid plate.


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## HondaTech2016 (Apr 20, 2017)

So the little flap cost $130, or the whole under body cover?

I've ripped mine off at the hinge changing the oil so it's been on my to do list to fix.

I plan on drilling a hole and installing a bolt and lock nut. Leaving the nut just loose enough so I can unlock the 3 factory fasteners and pivot it out of the way.


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## johnmo (Mar 2, 2017)

I had a similar experience following a dealer oil change. I stopped at my in-laws house about 20-minutes after picking up my car from the dealer and the access panel had come loose. Completely bogus for the dealer to put that on you. I think mine came loose as I pulled into the driveway, so there wasn't any damage and I was able to close it back up well enough that I could get it back to the dealer the next day. I wanted them to know about it and I didn't get it tightened up fully myself -- wasn't dressed for getting under a car and didn't have a lot of time to fiddle with it at someone else's house.

Side note on dealer service: I've had work done with three different dealers in my area and each of them has managed to disappoint me multiple times. If I wasn't getting warranty work done and trying to keep a lifetime powertrain warranty in effect, I wouldn't darken a dealer's doorstep ever again.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

johnmo said:


> I had a similar experience following a dealer oil change. I stopped at my in-laws house about 20-minutes after picking up my car from the dealer and the access panel had come loose. Completely bogus for the dealer to put that on you. I think mine came loose as I pulled into the driveway, so there wasn't any damage and I was able to close it back up well enough that I could get it back to the dealer the next day. I wanted them to know about it and I didn't get it tightened up fully myself -- wasn't dressed for getting under a car and didn't have a lot of time to fiddle with it at someone else's house.
> 
> Side note on dealer service: I've had work done with three different dealers in my area and each of them has managed to disappoint me multiple times. If I wasn't getting warranty work done and trying to keep a lifetime powertrain warranty in effect, I wouldn't darken a dealer's doorstep ever again.





HondaTech2016 said:


> So the little flap cost $130, or the whole under body cover?
> 
> I've ripped mine off at the hinge changing the oil so it's been on my to do list to fix.
> 
> I plan on drilling a hole and installing a bolt and lock nut. Leaving the nut just loose enough so I can unlock the 3 factory fasteners and pivot it out of the way.





JPinSTL said:


> Well at least the new replacement is improved. I put a request in with IDParts about sourcing something sturdier from across the Pond. The dealer quote was $250 installed so likely not TOO BAD of a price considering.
> 
> I'm thinking since I still have the flap a short section of piano hinge and some stainless steel pop-rivets on the front leading edge would be an improvement. I'm also thinking the existing one as a pattern, my plasma cutter, and some sheet metal to make a real skid plate.


Do any of you have some photo's of this shield installed or not?


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## georgecdisc (Mar 7, 2018)

HondaTech2016 said:


> So the little flap cost $130, or the whole under body cover?


The $130 was the full under body cover that the access flap fastens to. The access flap came with it.


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## st1100man (Dec 17, 2017)

Got my 1st oil and filter change on my 2017 Cruze Diesel. The next day, as I was walking to my car I noticed the oil filter access panel hanging down. shredded. I had only put 10 miles on the car after the oil change, and no other service had been done since new. The service writer said I must have hit something. I didn't back down, and he finally agreed to fix it. The complete lower cover had too be ordered, because there is no availability for the separate oil filter access panel/cover. I was told, "next time it's on you." I did the 2nd oil change myself. It's very easy, and the cover does fit securely. A technician just needs to do his job properly. When I was under my Cruze, I checked the new lower cover and found that a couple screws were not tight. Also, DEXOS-2 type oil must be used. It's hard to find. I recently discovered that Pennzoil EURO-L is applicable. I believe Walmart advertised it in the $6 range. The GM oil was $10 quart at the dealer. For the filter, I used a Mobil-1 M1C-257A. It was $76 for me to do my own oil change. Definitely not cheap.


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## BobJacobson (Jan 10, 2018)

I want one too. I'd live something metal as I smashed mine up last year with winter driving. Also same issue with the oil flap on my car.

Thanks for the part number on the replacement piece I will be ordering one


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2017)

I reached out to the company selling the skid plate to see if it will fit the North American Gen2 Cruze Diesel and have yet to hear back. They list it fitting the 2008-2018 Cruze which wouldn't line up with the Cruze we have here.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

I was thinking the same. If it's made for the 1.4 turbo the oil filter is on top. The oil filter access panel is what I'm curious about. The fuel filter as well.


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## JPinSTL (Jul 9, 2018)

6speedTi said:


> I was thinking the same. If it's made for the 1.4 turbo the oil filter is on top. The oil filter access panel is what I'm curious about. The fuel filter as well.


My understanding is the fuel filter is underneath the floor pan in the rear seat area and not up by the engine.

I have not heard back from the Skid Plate source in the UK or any feedback from IDParts on possibly offering a solution. For now I'm going to modify the existing shield and hinge the front leading edge of the oil filter access panel.


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## [email protected] (Mar 16, 2017)

Just an update the company in the UK has still yet to get back to me. If there is enough interest I can try to work with our local fabricator to get a better option made. 

We have ones for the MkIV TDIs made out of .05 inch aluminum that work well as a replacement to stock units without being a full on skid plate. Could be a good fit for the Cruzes.


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## JPinSTL (Jul 9, 2018)

[email protected] said:


> Just an update the company in the UK has still yet to get back to me. If there is enough interest I can try to work with our local fabricator to get a better option made.
> 
> We have ones for the MkIV TDIs made out of .05 inch aluminum that work well as a replacement to stock units without being a full on skid plate. Could be a good fit for the Cruzes.


I've tried the UK Co as well with no response. I'd be up for an aluminum skid/shield. The Cruze sits a bit higher than the low oil pan dragging Golf, but that stock skirt on the Cruze won't hold up over time. If pricing is in line with the VW MkIV I'll order. - JP


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## JPinSTL (Jul 9, 2018)

[email protected] any updates on your end? Or has this died with Chevy cutting production? I'd still be interested in a better solution than stock?


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## Z71 (Jan 1, 2019)

I just changed engine oil on my 2018 Cruze TD at 3k miles. After loosening the access flap and realizing that the flap must be forced down to open on its paper front "hinge", I reattached the flap and removed the whole splash shield. There are about 16 or so 7 mm hex head screws to remove and a couple of push pins, but definitely better than messing with the awful flap and trying to hold it down while draining oil. It seems that at dealerships they simply tear off the flap from its front paper hinge to remove it completely. This I did not want to do as there is no front bolt holding it up and the front would sag. This splash shield is the cheapest splash shield I have ever removed on any car and I have done a lot over the years. this splash shield looks like it is made of fiberglass reinforced carboard, or something similar.


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## Chase1451 (Jan 10, 2020)

Has anyone found a replacement for the oem side plate?


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## FlagrantBacon94 (Apr 8, 2020)

So, I had my oil done at the dealer a few months back, and noticed that there was a sound coming from the car if I drove over 60-65 mph. Forgot to check it the day after as it was raining, and I don't have any sort of garage or cover to put my vehicle in. I remembered it the following week since i heard it again, the cover had been sheared off from the point it was attached to the rest of the cover, and only one of three screws were holding it in place. The dealership took responsibility for it as I wasn't happy with them, and physically showed it. So they replaced it free of charge and I didn't worry about it until today. I was on my way home when periodically I would hear scraping coming from somewhere on my vehicle whenever going over uneven road. So I looked under my car thinking it might be the oil cover, and it was. Two of the three screws were holding it in place, the rear screw is missing and the front part that attaches it to the rest of the cover was sheared off again. Has anyone found a better solution to the replacement part, because I'm tired of having to already get a third one.


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## mcorr2016 (Jan 31, 2018)

A few oil changes ago I noticed the fabric material ripped, which allowed the door to come completely off the skid plate (insulator). It made oil changes a lot easier not having to maneuver around it, just had to make sure the screws were tightened fully so the door wouldn’t come off.... The last couple weeks I’ve had to drive in some pretty nasty conditions (6+ inches of snow). Where the fabric ripped allowed a small window for snow to wedge itself while going through deep snow, which turned into ice. I noticed I was bottoming out on bumps/ transitions I usually have no issues with. I took the skid plate off to remove all the ice, and the destroyed door. Unsure if the ice was making contact with the oil pan or filter housing when I was bottoming out, luckily everything looks completely fine underneath. I suspect the wind over time slowly bends down the metal which allowed it to scoop the snow.


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## cdccjohnson (Apr 10, 2018)

I made my own panel. I used a 1/8" heavy plastic sheeting. I used the old door as a template, drilled the bolt holes (make sure they were wide enough to allow movement needed. I then cut the front at a size so it would be able to be inserted into the front edge of the floor pan. I had previously tried it with some thin aluminum flashing but it was two thin to deal with the wind drag and would buckle to the point that the leading edge.

So far so good. I will try and take some pictures with the next oil change.


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## jrb3 (May 17, 2017)

I don't have a picture, buy I have the hinge type front that ripped. I took 2 strips of aluminum that extend past the flap and bolted them together to sandwich with the non-door part. Now, I just unscrew the back 3 and slid the door off.


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## 4gfirstmax (2 mo ago)

Hello, new Cruze TD owner. Mine was missing the front compartment insulator when I bought it. I have ordered one from my local dealer, but have yet to crawl under to look at what fasteners are required. Does anyone know where I could find an exploded diagram with p/n for fasteners ( from what I read, there are only 2 types…). I’d like to have all my stuff together before pulling it up on the ramps. Thanks in advance. Sorry for the thread resurrection…


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## Jetblast33 (Mar 12, 2017)

I don't know how many fasteners but this is the part number
*GM 11547421*


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## 4gfirstmax (2 mo ago)

Jetblast33 said:


> I don't know how many fasteners but this is the part number
> *GM 11547421*


Thank you!


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