# Sound Upgrade for a Newbie



## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

What ever route you choose make sure not to waste money buying stuff that you might later on change.
1. Find out what you want to do for your long term goal. Active or passive.
2. Don't buy it just because you want to Immediately in stall it. 
3.Given your limited budget I'd say use this time to figure out "EXACTLY" what components you want and need and stick to that plan. Wire, amps, box, subs, sound deadening, mini dsp, baffles, ect.
4.Buy all the parts first then do the install.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Upgrade the head unit I would go alpine but your looking at 400+ alone for a decent double din deck unless you can find a cheap seller, I'm from Canada so stuffs not that cheap here, your looking at another 150-250 for the wiring harness GMS-044 I believe to keep onstar and all functions working properly in car, then if you have steering wheel controls you would need that modual, another 30-50 bucks and you will need the double din conversion trim piece that's another 30-70 bucks, I would at least go this route first if you want sound quality you can always use stock stereo but you really loose sub controls going that way and all the systems I've herd that went that way sound like poo. Just upgrading the head unit alone makes the stock speakers way better, you don't really need to upgrade them stock speakers in the past were junk now they are not bad at all I heard a set in a Cruze hooked up to a 4 channel 800w amp and my god it was clear,.. I'm sure others will chime in on this and maybe contradict what I'm saying but I would def upgrade you radio first, have any questions give me a PM


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Upgrade the head unit I would go alpine but your looking at 400+ alone for a decent double din deck unless you can find a cheap seller, I'm from Canada so stuffs not that cheap here, your looking at another 150-250 for the wiring harness GMS-044 I believe to keep onstar and all functions working properly in car, then if you have steering wheel controls you would need that modual, another 30-50 bucks and you will need the double din conversion trim piece that's another 30-70 bucks, I would at least go this route first if you want sound quality you can always use stock stereo but you really loose sub controls going that way and all the systems I've herd that went that way sound like poo. Just upgrading the head unit alone makes the stock speakers way better, you don't really need to upgrade them stock speakers in the past were junk now they are not bad at all I heard a set in a Cruze hooked up to a 4 channel 800w amp and my god it was clear,.. I'm sure others will chime in on this and maybe contradict what I'm saying but I would def upgrade you radio first, have any questions give me a PM


Whos systems have you heard if you listen to tjem on YouTube of course there gonna sound like crap camera's cant keep up ecxpecially with my system. Xtreme really knows what he's doing he build custom speaker boxes on here mayne he will chime in, he has an epic dual 18" SQL setup all on stock headunit. I'm also stock head unit. 

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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Just went on a Cruze with a few guys sub hit's to hard on low volume and not hard enough on high volume I mean if you want to use an adjust knob that will turn up or down the bass, but it still won't filter out all the stuff you can on most head units... I know Xtreme knows his stereos but saying that he builds custom boxes in an argument don't mean anything about electronic setup, even tho i know he knows his stuff all you need to know is the specs of the sub and know how to use a measuring tape and do drawings to make a proper box setup, and not using plywood also helps lmao, you won't believe the Hondas I have seen with plywood boxes lmfao and for an alpine a Extra 150 you can get 45w to each speaker instead of 18 or 12w and that makes a huge difference if you don't want to do all the requiring extra wiring for door speakers to an amp, and loose all your chimes in car that would be a great route as its just plug and play... Just my 2cents everyone has there own opinions just giving mine


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Just went on a Cruze with a few guys sub hit's to hard on low volume and not hard enough on high volume I mean if you want to use an adjust knob that will turn up or down the bass, but it still won't filter out all the stuff you can on most head units... I know Xtreme knows his stereos but saying that he builds custom boxes in an argument don't mean anything about electronic setup, even tho i know he knows his stuff all you need to know is the specs of the sub and know how to use a measuring tape and do drawings to make a proper box setup, and not using plywood also helps lmao, you won't believe the Hondas I have seen with plywood boxes lmfao and for an alpine a Extra 150 you can get 45w to each speaker instead of 18 or 12w and that makes a huge difference if you don't want to do all the requiring extra wiring for door speakers to an amp, and loose all your chimes in car that would be a great route as its just plug and play... Just my 2cents everyone has there own opinions just giving mine




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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

You could keep the stock head unit and go with a DSP, and it would still look stock but perform the way you want it.


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

Thank you all for the advice. I will surely consider all of the ideas given. I love the idea of replacing the stock head unit, but as mentioned, doing so would require extra parts (and labor) which will quickly send me over the $500 mark.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Just went on a Cruze with a few guys sub hit's to hard on low volume and not hard enough on high volume I mean if you want to use an adjust knob that will turn up or down the bass, but it still won't filter out all the stuff you can on most head units... I know Xtreme knows his stereos but saying that he builds custom boxes in an argument don't mean anything about electronic setup, even tho i know he knows his stuff all you need to know is the specs of the sub and know how to use a measuring tape and do drawings to make a proper box setup, and not using plywood also helps lmao, you won't believe the Hondas I have seen with plywood boxes lmfao and for an alpine a Extra 150 you can get 45w to each speaker instead of 18 or 12w and that makes a huge difference if you don't want to do all the requiring extra wiring for door speakers to an amp, and loose all your chimes in car that would be a great route as its just plug and play... Just my 2cents everyone has there own opinions just giving mine


Lol. Sorry man, people who have been here a while known how much actual modeling and design goes into my boxes and systems. There is so much more to it that you have no idea about. 

For the record, plywood is a great material to build boxes out of. I use MDF because it's cheaper than good 7-ply plywood and it's a more dead material, but with the proper bracing, plywood will give you identical results while being significantly lighter. 

Unlike every audio shop in this country, I don't just throw better parts at a system to make it sound better. I design systems to drop jaws and raise the hairs on your arms with name brands you've never even heard of, at prices that will blow your mind. 

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OutOThsWrld said:


> Thank you all for the advice. I will surely consider all of the ideas given. I love the idea of replacing the stock head unit, but as mentioned, doing so would require extra parts (and labor) which will quickly send me over the $500 mark.


Keep the stock head unit, and you can do a lot. With that budget though, your options are limited even if you do already have a sub. You will need a new box, and you will need to decide if a prefabbed box will meet your needs or even if your current subs will suit the type of music you listen to most. 

A new head unit is a very bad choice for an upgrade at this price point because the benefits are very minimal. The factory integration modules are expensive, and the entire kit offers you little to no improved sound quality considering the stock speakers aren't very good to begin with. You would get far better sound with a PAC AA-GM44 and some amplified speakers. 

Bandpass boxes are designed to sound loud, and their sound quality is great in a very narrow range of frequencies, but because that range is so narrow, they are a poor choice for anything but loud synthetic bass. IMO, you would get much better results if you sold the subs and box and used that money for something that suits your preferences better. 

A single SQ-based 10" sub would probably be your best bet, and if you keep power requirements low, you could go with a 5-channel amp to save you money and significantly lower the install complexity. 

Terry provided very good and sound advice that you would be wise to consider. Don't just slap something together, because you won't be happy with it. Take your time, and save some money if you have to in order to get the results you want. We're all here to help you reach those goals. 

Is this something you will be installing yourself, or something you will take to a shop?

My personal recommendation at this point would be to sell the subs and box and go straight to a front stage upgrade with a miniDSP. Then, save more money and add subs at a later date.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Keep the stock head unit, and you can do a lot. With that budget though, your options are limited even if you do already have a sub. You will need a new box, and you will need to decide if a prefabbed box will meet your needs or even if your current subs will suit the type of music you listen to most.
> 
> A new head unit is a very bad choice for an upgrade at this price point because the benefits are very minimal. The factory integration modules are expensive, and the entire kit offers you little to no improved sound quality considering the stock speakers aren't very good to begin with. You would get far better sound with a PAC AA-GM44 and some amplified speakers.
> 
> ...


I don't get what you mean about more to it then what I stated? Of course the design of the box is important but it's just measurements and setup of the box and I would only use MDF, plywood is junk... SQ is my highest concern if your going to keep the stock head unit I would have to disagree on getting door speakers I'm not trying to be rude I know you know what your talking about but anything stock is no good, especial the head unit but for his budget the stock speakers are more then good enough for your average person, I mean if you want it clear at the volume your ears ring all day and night after getting out of your car then yes upgrade the speakers, I must say tho the clarity of the stock speakers in the cruze are amazing compared to past cars I have had you would be surprised on just amping the stocks, it would out perform most mid to low end aftermarket speakers, keeping the stock stereo was not an option for me tho I wanted a tv screen that would play videos and Netflix from my iPhone amd i like all the EQ adjustments I can do at my fingertips so that was one of the reason I upgraded I hate anything stock tho but right now I don't feel like running another amp and wiring the door speakers, to much work for me for the little benefit it has I might just be going deaf tho haha.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

CyclonicWrath said:


> I don't get what you mean about more to it then what I stated? Of course the design of the box is important but it's just measurements and setup of the box and I would only use MDF, plywood is junk... SQ is my highest concern if your going to keep the stock head unit I would have to disagree on getting door speakers I'm not trying to be rude I know you know what your talking about but anything stock is no good, especial the head unit but for his budget the stock speakers are more then good enough for your average person, I mean if you want it clear at the volume your ears ring all day and night after getting out of your car then yes upgrade the speakers, I must say tho the clarity of the stock speakers in the cruze are amazing compared to past cars I have had you would be surprised on just amping the stocks, it would out perform most mid to low end aftermarket speakers, keeping the stock stereo was not an option for me tho I wanted a tv screen that would play videos and Netflix from my iPhone amd i like all the EQ adjustments I can do at my fingertips so that was one of the reason I upgraded I hate anything stock tho but right now I don't feel like running another amp and wiring the door speakers, to much work for me for the little benefit it has I might just be going deaf tho haha.


Wow your contradicting yourself on this post haha stock is not good but keep the stock paper cone speakers but spend your budget on an expensive head unit thay will help you destroy your stock speakers.

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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Wow your contradicting yourself on this post haha stock is not good but keep the stock paper cone speakers but spend your budget on an expensive head unit thay will help you destroy your stock speakers.
> 
> Sent from my Droid


If you read it I said for his budget, and I have yet to blow them or make them distort I'm waiting till they go before I change them out I already have component speakers to go in the car but just don't have the time to wire everything up and I have been told to just run the wire from amp to the stock wires behind the head unit but I like to upgrade the gauge over stock when you amp it, unless its less then 60w to each speaker but even then.. And the stock head unit I would say is the biggest problem in the hole car, I bet just upgrading that gives the hole system a hole new sound, yes it's more then 500 bucks your looking at a grand to put a head unit in there and getting someone to instal it, but I'd say its more then worth it, I know 3 other people that regret doing what you and Xtreme have done but I'm glade it works well for you guys


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

CyclonicWrath said:


> If you read it I said for his budget, and I have yet to blow them or make them distort I'm waiting till they go before I change them out I already have component speakers to go in the car but just don't have the time to wire everything up and I have been told to just run the wire from amp to the stock wires behind the head unit but I like to upgrade the gauge over stock when you amp it, unless its less then 60w to each speaker but even then.. And the stock head unit I would say is the biggest problem in the hole car, I bet just upgrading that gives the hole system a hole new sound, yes it's more then 500 bucks your looking at a grand to put a head unit in there and getting someone to instal it, but I'd say its more then worth it, I know 3 other people that regret doing what you and Xtreme have done but I'm glade it works well for you guys


What should we regret I am SPL and he is SQL. And I'm going to stop thread jacking his thread.

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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Haha I said 3 other guys I know regret it and I'm glad it works for you I'm not saying you should regret it!!! Please read my comments


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Yay he wants to lay his dogs down for a while ,and trust that the newb has no idea or direction to go .
Keep the Mtx , slap in some good quality component speakers in the front doors and pillars . String the wiring for the subs and amp in the trunk . Your not loosing that much space , unless your carrying luggage all of the time , there are plenty of how to threads . Also there is plenty of great ideas rolling around this forum . 

SMurf where are you ! Chime in any moment now , you have the ideas !


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> I don't get what you mean about more to it then what I stated? Of course the design of the box is important but it's just measurements and setup of the box and I would only use MDF, plywood is junk... SQ is my highest concern if your going to keep the stock head unit I would have to disagree on getting door speakers I'm not trying to be rude I know you know what your talking about but anything stock is no good, especial the head unit but for his budget the stock speakers are more then good enough for your average person, I mean if you want it clear at the volume your ears ring all day and night after getting out of your car then yes upgrade the speakers, I must say tho the clarity of the stock speakers in the cruze are amazing compared to past cars I have had you would be surprised on just amping the stocks, it would out perform most mid to low end aftermarket speakers, keeping the stock stereo was not an option for me tho I wanted a tv screen that would play videos and Netflix from my iPhone amd i like all the EQ adjustments I can do at my fingertips so that was one of the reason I upgraded I hate anything stock tho but right now I don't feel like running another amp and wiring the door speakers, to much work for me for the little benefit it has I might just be going deaf tho haha.


Not to be rude, but you don't get what I mean because you're used to throwing parts at a problem. Don't like the sound? Throw $500 at a head unit and factory integration modules. Want it louder? Throw $500 into a component set. Before you know it, you're $3k in and still not satisfied. I've heard the story over and over again a hundred times. I know people who have gotten out of the car audio game completely because they could never get it to sound good no matter how much they spent, and companies keep advertising that if you can just buy the higher priced parts, it will sound so much better. Frankly, that's a big load of BS, because it takes some design work to make a system sound good. 

Box design is not just measurements and setup of the box. You have to model the volume in simulation software so you can get the Qts that suits the type of music you're listening to with that specific sub. You have to model this with cabin pressurization gain and boundary loading factored into the frequency response in so you know what it's actually going to sound like in a car; not sitting on the ground in open space. You don't just put together some dimensions that fit a pre-defined volume and say "welp, I'm good to go now." You need to consider how much fiberglass or mineral wool you need to use in the box to absorb internal harmonic distortion reflections. That is, if you want a truly good sounding box. 

I'm not going to sit here and argue with you on the subject if you're going to make ridiculously inaccurate statements such as "plywood is junk." Back up your statements or get out of the discussion. Plywood is strong, but is not as dead of a material as MDF. MDF is heavy, but is holy terror on tools and bits, is absolute torture to breathe on a daily basis (thus requiring good dust extraction attachments to your tools and well-ventilated shop), and it absorbs moisture more than any other material you'd think of using on a box. Ask any experienced speaker designer and they will tell you that plywood is a perfectly suitable material if braced well. Key term is* if braced well*. Keep in mind I'm not talking about $20 a sheet scrap plywood that people board up windows with. I'm talking void-free baltic birch ply. While the stuff you can get at home depot is "ok" if you're in a tight spot, I prefer (if I have a way to transport it), 7-ply void-free hardwood plywood from Menard's.

If SQ was your highest concern, you wouldn't have dropped so much money on a head unit for a comparatively (to a miniDSP) dismal gain in sound quality. What you got was appearance, functionality (video playback, tuning from the driver's seat without a laptop, etc.), and if your head unit is set up for an active crossover, you have what I would call pathetic DSP capabilities compared to a miniDSP. Oh, and ease of tuning, which frankly is irrelevant to me as you never need to re-tune a system if it's tuned correctly the first time. It is statements like "anything stock is no good" that causes people to ignore your posts when it comes to audio. The stock head unit provides a perfectly good signal if you know how to work with it. The stock speakers, however, measure terribly. I posted the frequency response measurement last year in one of my car audio threads. If you truly wanted sound quality, you could have run a miniDSP setup with a 4-channel amp and I would have sent you the tune file for a specific pair of drivers. You would be MILES ahead of where you are now in terms of sound quality. The fact is that with what you can do with a precision measured tune on the miniDSP (which I now have for *two *speaker configurations), upgrading the head unit is an extremely poor value. That is, specifically with regard to sound quality. 

You might compare the speakers to other cars and what you remember them sounding like, but I've *measured *the ones in the Cruze, with a precision measurement microphone. My evidence is not anecdotal; it's scientific and proven. I have proven repeatedly that I can achieve jaw-dropping sound that puts incredibly expensive systems to shame and achieves near perfect frequency response and time alignment, while using a stock head unit. With regard to what you can do by amplifying the stock speakers, keep in mind you are comparing these to "mid to low end" car audio speakers. That statement holds a great deal of importance, as 50% of the price tag on car audio equipment is for the name slapped on the label. Why do you think I recommend drivers made by companies like Tang Band, Vifa, Dayton, Silver Flute, Seas, Scanspeak, Aurasound, etc. instead of car-audio specific brands? The value in big-box car audio brands is absolutely terrible. I don't know why more people don't realize that you can't just throw more expensive parts at a car and expect it to sound good. Truly good sound requires truly good design. There are a small few companies that provide a very good value for the products they sell (one of which is Image Dynamics), but the list isn't really that long.



CyclonicWrath said:


> And the stock head unit I would say is the biggest problem in the hole car, I bet just upgrading that gives the hole system a hole new sound, yes it's more then 500 bucks your looking at a grand to put a head unit in there and getting someone to instal it, but I'd say its more then worth it, I know 3 other people that regret doing what you and Xtreme have done but I'm glade it works well for you guys


How is the stock head unit the biggest problem in the car? This is the second time you've said it without any evidence. Where is the problem? Have you measured distortion to determine that the signal is distorted? Have you hooked it up to an oscilloscope to determine if/and where it is clipping? What have you done to determine and claim so strongly that the head unit is the biggest problem in this car?



CyclonicWrath said:


> Haha I said 3 other guys I know regret it and I'm glad it works for you I'm not saying you should regret it!!! Please read my comments


I didn't design a system for those three people, and frankly I know of extremely few people who can design one correctly, so that really means absolutely nothing. It's all anecdotal evidence. Every single system I have designed for anyone on this board while using the stock head unit ended up with those installers being very happy and very satisfied with the results. That's not 3 people, not 4, not 5. Think in the range of over 20 system designs...just for Cruzes. The source signal coming from the factory head unit is perfectly fine, and if someone doesn't know how to make a system sound good with the factory head unit in the Cruze, then they need to take a step back and do some learning before they try to design a system again. That kind of anecdotal evidence really isn't worth much in a discussion. 

The stock head unit has some flaws when it comes to system design, but you can achieve much better results putting the money you'd otherwise spend on a head unit into a proper miniDSP-based setup. 

Justin (Smurfenstein) is in right around $1500 total for his install. That's two 18" pro-audio Peavey [Black Widow] Low Rider subwoofers, a Boston Acoustics GT-2300 that does 1000W *@ 4 ohms*, a GT-475 that does 74W x 4 @ 4 ohms, and a miniDSP based front sound stage with a very wide extension (playing down to 1600Hz) Seas tweeter, and Dayton RS-series reference midwoofers utilizing a phase plug design for better off-axis response. That is a competition-winning install. I tuned it myself, and it looks 100% bone stock inside the car. With the exception of a USB cable sticking out of the dash, there is absolutely no change that would lead you to believe there is anything installed in the car. The sound stage is spectacular, the time alignment is, yet again, dead on the driver's position, and each individual driver is precision measured and tuned with 36 *parametric *equalizer bands to sound absolutely perfect in the driver's position. I'm not even sure if an aftermarket head unit *exists *that can do that. 

Bottom line is this: replacing the head unit for the sole purpose of achieving better sound quality is a bad way to spend $500+. I will admit this is a very special situation when I'm around, as I already have the precision measured tune file that you can just write right onto the miniDSP to achieve the same sound I have in my car. You get professional tuning with proven (in both car audio and home audio), high performance drivers that will annihilate anything you can hope to accomplish with an aftermarket head unit at even double the cost. 

This is the reason why I don't recommend that people replace the head unit off the bat if their purpose is better sound quality. It simply isn't the most cost-effective way to get there. Not when a complete miniDSP-based setup will cost you under $600 in parts shipped to your door, including amplifier, wiring, and line out converter.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Furniture Grade Plywood for a Sub Box , heck why bother covering it . The Grain Quality of Baltic Birch alone Impresses Me !


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## Rauen (Apr 27, 2013)

I used to have subs, but I don't know much at all about sound systems. The system in the LS sucksss. I listen to AM radio for baseball games probably 50% of the time and my front door speaker blew in my 2013. Honestly I just want to replace all 4 door speakers and put some 6x9s in the cutouts that they have provided in the trunk


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## RollinOn18s (Mar 28, 2013)

I am sure our head units in our cruzes have come along way from the ac delco in my 1993 cavalier. I still would think getting an upgrade would be the right first step. I do agree with xtreme to sell the subs and box and that will help cover the cost of the new head unit.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

RollinOn18s said:


> I am sure our head units in our cruzes have come along way from the ac delco in my 1993 cavalier. I still would think getting an upgrade would be the right first step. I do agree with xtreme to sell the subs and box and that will help cover the cost of the new head unit.


If you really think replacing the head unit will improve sound more than spending that same $500 on a miniDSP full active processor, front speakers, amplifier, and wiring kit, then by all means go for it. It's your money after all. I'm just here to help you get the most out of it. 

The 20 or so people who I've designed miniDSP-based systems for on this forum alone were beyond blown away by the results. Those who heard my own system at the Lordstown meet can speak for themselves.


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

I heard Justin's (smurfenstein's) in person last night. With a stock head unit, it had better sound quality than anything I've ever heard in person in my life. I've heard a $2k head unit on an almost completely stock system (save for the subs and tweeters) and it was nowhere NEAR what Andrei has put together. The MiniDSP is a FAR superior sound processing method. PERIOD.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Lol okay whatever you say!


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## boats4life (May 28, 2011)

I don't care if you don't believe me. I'm a completely unbiased observer, and to be completely honest, I also doubted that he could get that kind of sound the way he was saying... Until I heard it. He has specifically tuned every speaker for the drivers ear and it more than shows.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Lol okay whatever you say!


You're doubting him, but I have proof as to why it works. I can walk outside right now and get a frequency response of my system as well as show you the time alignment settings. I already walked you through why a sub box requires more than just a tape measure and T/S parameters, and I am more than ready to walk you through why a head unit will not get you the same results that you will with a miniDSP. Maybe it annoys you that you spent nearly $1k and you're nowhere close to how our cars sound with a stock head unit? I don't know. 

What I do know is that I can provide solid proof for all of the things I've said so far. However, I've asked you to provide proof of how you came to the conclusion that the stock head unit in the Cruze is the worst part of the car, and you've failed to provide that proof or evidence. You say you're all about sound quality, but I'm not seeing it. Not trying to be rude, although I am a bit annoyed that I have to explain this here. 

It is critical to measure the frequency response of each individual speaker and tune that frequency response with a parametric equalizer. Not a graphic equalizer; a parametric equalizer. It is also critical to measure the distance from your ears to all of the drivers and tune the time alignment accordingly. It is also critical to understand that the paper cones in the Cruze have no low pass filter and have a nasty breakup in the high vocal range that you cannot fix with an EQ. It is also critical to understand that the tweeters have a very jagged frequency response because they're flat out cheap, and that they are crossed way too high, resulting in a severe loss of midrange. Do you need more proof? 

Here you are. Frequency response of the stock system. I can walk you through each individual peak and dip and tell you exactly why it's there. 










Some say that car audio is entirely subjective. I say anyone who says that has a flawed or incomplete understanding of audio in general. Audio is a science, and while you can tune to give yourself a little more mid or a little more vocal or maybe a harder kick drum or a deeper low, at the end of the day, cone breakup is still fatiguing, tweeter diffraction is still a massive issue, 3rd order harmonic distortion is still going to muddy up your tweeter's vocal range, and your inability to time align will kill any resemblance of "sound quality" you think you are hearing. 

Sounds to me like you've never heard a properly designed car audio system.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> You're doubting him, but I have proof as to why it works. I can walk outside right now and get a frequency response of my system as well as show you the time alignment settings. I already walked you through why a sub box requires more than just a tape measure and T/S parameters, and I am more than ready to walk you through why a head unit will not get you the same results that you will with a miniDSP. Maybe it annoys you that you spent nearly $1k and you're nowhere close to how our cars sound with a stock head unit? I don't know.
> 
> What I do know is that I can provide solid proof for all of the things I've said so far. However, I've asked you to provide proof of how you came to the conclusion that the stock head unit in the Cruze is the worst part of the car, and you've failed to provide that proof or evidence. You say you're all about sound quality, but I'm not seeing it. Not trying to be rude, although I am a bit annoyed that I have to explain this here.
> 
> ...


You know I don't read your hole msg because I don't have time, but I'm glad it works for you keep doing what your doing.... So what sound competitions have you won.....


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> You know I don't read your hole msg because I don't have time, but I'm glad it works for you keep doing what your doing.... So what sound competitions have you won.....


Like trying to explain advanced audio concepts and teach you something you have proven you have no knowledge of, competing is a waste of my time. I don't need a trophy or a ribbon to justify anything. My designs and my work speak for themselves. Literally. I'm sure more people will chime in to remind you of that fact.

If you don't bother reading people's posts when they prove you wrong, why do you bother to post at all?

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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

But I do agree on a minidsp or something similar, I would still upgrade the head unit tho, and going digital the right way I'd go Audison I'm not into the no name crap, and I don't provide facts because its a forum and I have a life I don't live on the computer, I'm on my phone


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> But I do agree on a minidsp or something similar, I would still upgrade the head unit tho, and going digital the right way I'd go Audison I'm not into the no name crap, and I don't provide facts because its a forum and I have a life I don't live on the computer, I'm on my phone


Flaunting big brand names? Calling miniDSP crap? You just lost any credibility you ever had on this board. To top it all off, you've ridiculed myself and another member. Heck, even the guys on DIYMA praise the miniDSP. A quick Google search on your part would have saved you quite a lot of headache. 

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

CyclonicWrath said:


> You know I don't read your hole msg because I don't have time, but I'm glad it works for you keep doing what your doing.... So what sound competitions have you won.....


I have but I don't have the time to waste on a stereo to get exact things like you... my dad on the other hand did, not anymore he got out of that I would say useless hobby and now he's on to the next one...like he told me he grew up.... I drive my car to work and back, I don't want to sound proof the hole thing I don't want it to be quit in cabin, I got full exhaust and other mods I want to hear, so why go so hard into the system sq when you can hear outside noise unless your parked?, and who listen to music parked, that what earphone are for so you can walk around... you might have programs and what have you but if I do something I do it on my own and if I don't know how I figure it out, sorry you don't know me I have no more time on this subject but thanks for trying........and I'd till upgrade the head unit first


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Flaunting big brand names? Calling miniDSP crap? You just lost any credibility you ever had on this board. To top it all off, you've ridiculed myself and another member. Heck, even the guys on DIYMA praise the miniDSP. A quick Google search on your part would have saved you quite a lot of headache.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


Lmao I don't think your credible anymore cuz you can't read....where does it say a minidsp is crap? I know your a mod but sir you are a joke and there is a hole fb group against you and this site because you are a mod so who doesn't have any credibility............ Good day sir?


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

And just because you can't afford name brand stuff does not mean it is not better then the cheap stuff you buy! It may work good with "proper tuning" but so does high end name brand crap but I'm sure I will get another lengthy reply on why not


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Ok Cyclone, aside from your extreme lack of punctuation and grammar that makes trying to read your posts painful, your "logic" is so flawed it almost hurts. Am I attacking you right now? In a way, yes, but that is only because your posts have such a blind ignorance towards Andrei's work that I feel like I have no better way to go about my post than to defend him.

First off, replacing a head unit is probably, the absolute worst thing you can do to "upgrade your car's sound quality" and the reasoning behind it is quite simple actually. You can claim all you want that a head unit can provide a higher quality signal to your speakers compared to a factory head unit, which is true in almost all cases, but signal strength isn't the problem here. Its like trying to put 4G on a Nokia[the supre old, meme/indestructible ones], you get an almost asinine benefit from doing so, if any at all, because the actual system/speakers themselves cant even begin to dream about taking advantage of the upgraded signal. The only illusion that the upgraded head unit gives you is the fancy touch screen, loads of apps/goodies, and a slightly more advanced bass/midrange/treble control over factory that you've tricked yourself into believing that you've improved the quality of your speakers.

As for your comment on how anyone with a ruler and wood can make a sub box. Yeah you're right, in the same way that anyone with a ruler and wood can build a house. As Andrei has mentioned numerous times, the amount of actual thought behind each individual box is probably more than you or I put into a given hour, or even day of our everyday lives. In all honesty I would actually be more than happy to PAY for you to fly to Chicago to meet Andrei and have your own thoughts on car audio hushed and put to shame, but then again, I'd rather spend my money on doing something useful, since whats another uninformed, self-proclaimed "audio expert" dealing out lies going to affect my life? I have a real system that will crap on people who put twice the money I have going with full Alpine, Kenwood, Kicker, or other "popular brand" systems... and I'm content with sitting back, knowing that you're just blowing smoke, while I can back up my bark, and so can Andrei.

Also, saying that putting money into an audio system for SQ is a waste, then why are you making such a big deal about it? From that last post you basically said that anyone who puts money into car audio SQ is a complete retard, calling it a waste of time, and saying that your "dad used to do it but grew up". I'm sorry, but if your dad ever did anything on the same level that Andrei does you wouldn't be so badly misinformed, or maybe your dad just never taught you anything important, I don't know, I wasn't around when you were raised. Its great that you put mods into your exhaust, I'm all for that, but don't rip on others for not conforming to your tastes/interests. Not to mention that you don't need sound deadening over every single square millimeter of your car just to sound good unless you're parked, I have nothing more than 10 total CLD tiles in my trunk/front doors and I what little outside noise that is audible inside my car cant even be heard over my system past 12-15 Vol on the head unit.

Oh wow you also have a group on FB laughing at us? What is this High School? The cool kids got made fun of by someone with a brain and now they're laughing at us to make themselves feel better when the truth behind the fact is that they're the ones who need to wake up. Also, where is the credibility behind this so called group? I bet its just you posting a status to all your friends with construed quotes/facts so that you can try and pretend like you know what your talking about, which you clearly don't.

If I lose my title as a Mod or even get banned over this I'm perfectly content. I'm not going to just sit here and be polite to someone who cant even show the same shred of common decency, let alone someone with a complete disregard to posts proving why you're wrong. Oh I'm on my phone, so I didn't read your message, so I'm still correct about everything because I'm self centered and think I'm God's gift to the world. Take your own advice and grow up.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Hay smurf you can get deep and funny at the same time wew , now if some one can get the newbie on the thread to give us some input about what he would like to do with his cruzen . We just might be able to get back to business as usual !


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Okay I read first paragraph I'm not making fun of his work at all I know he knows his ****, but he also always has to be right, he gets so far off topic its insane and yes off topic, he's just trying to sell his product to people... attack me all you want I don't care I was just stating an option that most people that want sq without going digital because who listens to the same genre of music all the time and hook a laptop up to change all that crap because you went with a cheap digital setup, correct me if I'm wrong here... I listen to Country, Rock, hip hop,death metal...etc except from that biebs fella, so I don't want it programmed for one genre of music and my iPhone add punctuations and auto corrects words I don't want it too I'm not all that concerned about it, you still get what I'm getting at right? Anyways it's pretty simple to get a great sounding system without going that way and if you like the stock look of your car giver...p.s. quit twisting my words around saying I said **** I did not


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Your headed in the right direction , the direction your going


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Okay I read first paragraph I'm not making fun of his work at all I know he knows his ****, but he also always has to be right, he gets so far off topic its insane and yes off topic, he's just trying to sell his product to people... And plywood... Really a lot of stereo people would laugh at you for saying that I don't care what type or how many ply, MDF only... attack me all you want I don't care I was just stating an option that most people that want sq without going digital because who listens to the same genre of music all the time and hook a laptop up to change all that crap because you went with a cheap digital setup, I listen to Country, Rock, hip hop,death metal...etc except from that biebs fella, so I don't want it programmed for one genre of music and my iPhone add punctuations and auto corrects words I don't want it too I'm not all that concerned about it, you still get what I'm getting at right? Anyways it's pretty simple to get a great sounding system without going that way and if you like the stock look of your car giver


He doesn't always has to be right, he has the need to make sure[as Admin] that people who come to this forum seeking help for their cars get the CORRECT info, or at least, the BEST info in terms of relatability to the member's needs/wants/desires, all while trying to save their money if possible. Also, out ov everything that he's mentioned, only two items are his products, the sub box, and the audio tune file; both of which are absurdly cheap compared to what you would have to pay if you went elsewhere. Also, for the sub box, if you so choose, he will design the box for you, and send you the blueprints for you to get the materials and assemble it yourself.

Also, all of what I've learned of audio from Andrei leads me to believe/understand that with a properly tuned system, the speakers are set up to play any/all genres of music optimally, as long as the songs themselves are properly recorded. Does that leave you with a slightly narrowed variety of music to listen to? Yes, but there are songs in all genres that have been properly recorded, and do sound quite breathtaking on the system that he has designed for my Cruze. I still get goosebumps whenever I listen to a new, quality song for the first time because it sounds so amazing, and from going the head unit swap route in my first car, I can personally attest to how little it does to your system.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Okay I read first paragraph I'm not making fun of his work at all I know he knows his ****, but he also always has to be right, he gets so far off topic its insane and yes off topic, he's just trying to sell his product to people... attack me all you want I don't care I was just stating an option that most people that want sq without going digital because who listens to the same genre of music all the time and hook a laptop up to change all that crap because you went with a cheap digital setup, correct me if I'm wrong here... I listen to Country, Rock, hip hop,death metal...etc except from that biebs fella, so I don't want it programmed for one genre of music and my iPhone add punctuations and auto corrects words I don't want it too I'm not all that concerned about it, you still get what I'm getting at right? Anyways it's pretty simple to get a great sounding system without going that way and if you like the stock look of your car giver...p.s. quit twisting my words around saying I said **** I did not


Let me clarify a few things.

I argued a point to prove that if you are going for sound quality, replacing your head unit is not the best bang for the buck. You incessantly disagreed, so I clarified. You then turned it into a pissing match, which frankly I'm not going to continue for much longer. 

I don't care if I don't sell any product in this thread, nor did I have an intention to. Why? Because nothing I mentioned in this thread is my product. I build and design custom subwoofer enclosures (which I did not advertise here), I sell a "kit" with an 8" sub that I actually have to order if anyone wants one (which I've sold one of, and that's fine with me), and I do just about everything else for free. I don't sell the miniDSP (look it up, it's sold from an overseas company), and big news flash for you: I don't charge for my tune file. All those hours of tuning and precision measurement are free for anyone who wants to buy the parts and hook them up, which is why the miniDSP is such an incredibly good value for Cruze owners. Let me repeat that. You buy the parts from minidsp.com and madisound.com/parts-express.com (which I am not affiliated with), I make absolutely zero money, and I send you a complete tune file to turn your car into an SQ-winning machine for FAR less than you'd spend on "high end", big name brand components. I do it because I'm sick of seeing people waste money on their cars chasing results they will never get with the "throw more money at it" mindset. 

I would correct you because you are wrong, but you've stated numerous times that you won't read it, so why should I or anyone here waste our time? I've tried to teach you a few things in this thread, and your responses have been disrespectful and ungrateful to put it very, very mildly. 

If you think that the system is programmed for only one genre of music, then you yet again confirm my statement that you really need to do some research and learn a bit before you make arguments. You really are just digging yourself further into a hole because of your lack of knowledge on this subject. 

I don't *have *to be right when it comes to this topic; I *am *right. Frankly, I am surprised I've used what little time I've had here to explain something you are so h3ll-bent on ignoring. The reason I'm giving you a hard time about it is because I don't appreciate you misleading people and giving them false information. That's something I simply won't stand for around here.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Let me clarify a few things.
> 
> I argued a point to prove that if you are going for sound quality, replacing your head unit is not the best bang for the buck. You incessantly disagreed, so I clarified. You then turned it into a pissing match, which frankly I'm not going to continue for much longer.
> 
> ...


Your right I don't know much about a minidsp but also call me old school and I've heard none digital system give me goose bumps... But really saying I don't know about stereo is very ignorant and disrespectful to me. Plus I don't spend anytime researching new crap, but instead of calling me stupid it would have been nice to explain what a minidsp does and how respectfully... No where did I say you are wrong, that you were stupid, I just disagreed because of my ignorance to dsp... And I didn't know being on this forum was an English exam.. Smurf


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

At this point, everyone needs to drop the arguments and settle it via PM. As of right now there's no need to continue it on this thread. 

CW I urge you to read XR's stickied threads if you want to learn more about the MINIDSP it's In there. 


Topic related posts only from this point forward.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

I have to learn things myself before I believe what other say.... But anyways what exactly are you looking for in your system OP, like I mean do you want it to look stock and sound good or look a bit better then the ugly stock unit, like Tv screen, iPod options, or do you just want to spend 500 and only 500? Because its going to be tough no matter what route you go for that cheap I must say..maybe just save another 500 and go at it for 1g and if you have money left over bonus if not well you know it's going to sound good.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> I have to learn things myself before I believe what other say.... But anyways what exactly are you looking for in your system OP, like I mean do you want it to look stock and sound good or look a bit better then the ugly stock unit, like Tv screen, iPod options, or do you just want to spend 500 and only 500? Because its going to be tough no matter what route you go for that cheap I must say..maybe just save another 500 and go at it for 1g and if you have money left over bonus if not well you know it's going to sound good.


No, it won't be tough for that cheap. That's what I and everyone else here have been saying all along, but you've refused to believe it.

~$575-$600 gets you a fully-tuned, full active miniDSP front sound stage (speakers and adapters included) with an amplifier, PAC AA-GM44 harness, and and an OFC wiring kit. 

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> No, it won't be tough for that cheap. That's what I and everyone else here have been saying all along, but you've refused to believe it.
> 
> ~$575-$600 gets you a fully-tuned, full active miniDSP front sound stage (speakers and adapters included) with an amplifier, PAC AA-GM44 harness, and and an OFC wiring kit.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


Sorry what were those numbers again I think he wants to spend 500 not 600 so you made my point it would be hard to go either route spending only 500, specially if he wants new subs and a box to go with it... Your skull must be thicker then mine... Now stop arguing and lets just see what he really wants if he wants to go minidsp and stock stereo that his choice not yours, so quit trying to ridicule me with your none credibility talk towards me.., 500!!!!! Not 600!!!!! Jeezus


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Sorry what were those numbers again I think he wants to spend 500 not 600 so you made my point it would be hard to go either route spending only 500, specially if he wants new subs and a box to go with it... Your skull must be thicker then mine... Now stop arguing and lets just see what he really wants if he wants to go minidsp and stock stereo that his choice not yours, so quit trying to ridicule me with your none credibility talk towards me.., 500!!!!! Not 600!!!!! Jeezus


I make a point to overestimate so people don't find unwanted surprise expenses, but you're nitpicking instead of accepting that there is in fact a solution that several people in this thread recommended that fits his budget. There's a reason why it was suggested but you refuse to accept it as an option, so I copied an old cost sheet I made a while back for you.

Minidsp, miniDC, and plugin = $122 shipped
Silver flutes 6.5" drivers plus VIFA tweeters = $102 shipped
My MDF routed baffles = $65 shipped
PAC AA-GM44 = $33 shipped
KNU Wiring Kit = $66 shipped
Boston Acoustics GT-475 from techronics.com = $138 shipped

Speaker wire: $20 locally

Total: $546. Darn. That's still over $500. I guess we'll have to go with the plastic adapters sold on crutch field for $10 shipped instead of mine. Knocks off $55 so we're down to $491, which even leaves us room for a 12-pack of bud light.

I'm not ridiculing you. I'm correcting your misinformation. Please understand the difference and knock off the personal attacks. You can comment all you want on my expertise and I will back up my statements and provide proof of my claims, but petty insults like saying I have a thick skull are uncalled for. 

In his opening post, the OP stated clearly that he does not have the money for an entire system, that he wants something that will make the biggest difference for his money, and that he would upgrade more later. He also stated his goal is to improve sound. 

Furthermore, he said he has *about* $500, and agreed that selling the subs and box would be an option, so you grilling me over $75-$100 was also inappropriate. 

There is no contest here and the OP has already told us what he's looking for. If you're not sure, re-read the original post.

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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

Thanks for the advice XtremeRevolution. I was already considering the fact that I would have to sell the subs and box to get the sound I'm looking for. And yeah, I probably will go with the front stage upgrade and mini dsp first. I've already checked it out and read some reviews. It seems like a pretty amazing piece of work. I'll admit though, all those adjustments are foreign to me.

I'm actually looking to have a shop do the work for me. I've never done any audio work before and I would love to take a crack at it myself, but I just don't have the time. My days off usually consist of running errands and doing other work.


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

Wow...that sounds like a deal! I'll definitely look into that.

I do have a question however, what's your take on soundstream products? I was looking at some of their gear and it looks pretty impressive (especially for the price) but I haven't seen any reviews.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

OutOThsWrld said:


> Wow...that sounds like a deal! I'll definitely look into that.
> 
> I do have a question however, what's your take on soundstream products? I was looking at some of their gear and it looks pretty impressive (especially for the price) but I haven't seen any reviews.


Do you want a slamming system or something low key.

Sent from my Droid


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Do you want a slamming system or something low key.
> 
> Sent from my Droid


I wouldn't say slamming necessarily as I'm not looking to one-up anybody, but I do enjoy crisp audio with a little bit of power.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

OutOThsWrld said:


> I wouldn't say slamming necessarily as I'm not looking to one-up anybody, but I do enjoy crisp audio with a little bit of power.


Well I'm slamming lol I have window flex. 

But look these they are really good in both aspects. 
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/m178-image-dynamics-car-audio.html

Also they make a good component set up if you can't afford the MiniDSP.

Sent from my Droid


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Well I'm slamming lol I have window flex.
> 
> But look these they are really good in both aspects.
> Image Dynamics Car Audio: Subwoofers, Speakers & Amps
> ...


Thanks! Will do.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

OutOThsWrld said:


> Thanks! Will do.


Keep us posted were here to help.

Sent from my Droid


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Keep us posted were here to help.
> 
> Sent from my Droid



I definitely will. Thank you guys for all the input. This community is truly AMAZING and I'm quite lucky to have found it. I was never really into car mods prior to owning my cruze and finding this site, but after reading a lot of threads here and seeing all the cool stuff that can be done I'm definitely going to make some changes. I just tinted my windows this weekend 5% in the rear and 15% upfront. Next up on my list is probably the door handles. I want to get the chrome ones to give it some shine and also balance out all the black. Since I have the LS model the window sills are all black too and I'm not a huge fan of the "blackout" look. I know it's pretty popular, but definitely not my preference.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OutOThsWrld said:


> Wow...that sounds like a deal! I'll definitely look into that.
> 
> I do have a question however, what's your take on soundstream products? I was looking at some of their gear and it looks pretty impressive (especially for the price) but I haven't seen any reviews.


Their amplifiers aren't bad. 

The reason why I recommended the Boston GT-475 is because it's on a ridiculous sale. Boston Acoustics got out of the car audio market very recently and their amps are going VERY cheap. The GT-2300 that usually goes for $400-$500 is a $200 amp. 

Here's the link for the GT-475. 

Boston Acoustics GT-475 500 Watts GT Reference Series 4-Channel Amplifier

I very highly doubt you will be able to beat that much power from a high end SQ amp for such a low price. Justin and I both use this amp because the deal is too hard to pass up. 

If you're not in too big of a hurry, you can grab the GT-2300 for your future subwoofers while the amp is still available. 

Boston Acoustics GT-2300 1400 Watts GT Reference Series 2-Channel Amplifier

They look very pretty together.


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Their amplifiers aren't bad.
> 
> The reason why I recommended the Boston GT-475 is because it's on a ridiculous sale. Boston Acoustics got out of the car audio market very recently and their amps are going VERY cheap. The GT-2300 that usually goes for $400-$500 is a $200 amp.
> 
> ...


Talk about an insanely good deal! I'm still working on getting the money together, so hopefully they don't sell out before I get a chance to get my hands on one (or two). Thanks for the heads up!:th_dblthumb2:

One more thing though. Keeping in mind that I want to save trunkspace and use a single 12 or 10 inch sub wouldn't that 2 channel amp be a little too much juice for it?


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

CyclonicWrath said:


> I have to learn things myself before I believe what other say.... But anyways what exactly are you looking for in your system OP, like I mean do you want it to look stock and sound good or look a bit better then the ugly stock unit, like Tv screen, iPod options, or do you just want to spend 500 and only 500? Because its going to be tough no matter what route you go for that cheap I must say..maybe just save another 500 and go at it for 1g and if you have money left over bonus if not well you know it's going to sound good.


I actually want to keep my car looking stock at the moment. An aftermarket touchscreen unit would be nice, but since I just bought the car recently I don't want to make too many changes. Also, the adapters I've seen for the aftermarket units aren't too flattering themselves. If they have one in the same black that the stock unit has then it might look good.

You're right. I will most likely save up another $500 and go from there. Thanks for the advice.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

OutOThsWrld said:


> I actually want to keep my car looking stock at the moment. An aftermarket touchscreen unit would be nice, but since I just bought the car recently I don't want to make too many changes. Also, the adapters I've seen for the aftermarket units aren't too flattering themselves. If they have one in the same black that the stock unit has then it might look good.
> 
> You're right. I will most likely save up another $500 and go from there. Thanks for the advice.


That is prob the best thing to do. Most of the systems on this forum (who use the sites I've provided in my 1st post) only cost around $1k-1,200. And that's basically covering all of the important areas. Amps, speakers, wiring, box, baffles, deadening, ect.

How far do you want to take your build?
Don't worry we have enough audio veterans on here to help you every step of the way so that you can save your self some major money by doing the install yourself.



Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> That is prob the best thing to do. Most of the systems on this forum (who use the sites I've provided in my 1st post) only cost around $1k-1,200. And that's basically covering all of the important areas. Amps, speakers, wiring, box, baffles, deadening, ect.
> 
> How far do you want to take your build?
> Don't worry we have enough audio veterans on here to help you every step of the way so that you can save your self some major money by doing the install yourself.
> ...


Ultimately I want to do a full rebuild. Money is my biggest obstacle (as I would imagine is for most people). Essentially I would like to replace all the speakers, add a sub and a minidsp, an amp or two, and maybe even get a double din. Considering I want to keep it looking as stock as possible I've even considered swapping the stock unit for another one that's touchscreen with navigation. Although all I've been able to find are those chinese ones with crappy graphics.

Do you know if the new one with chevy mylink is available? I know its over 1k and probably not worth the money, but just out of curiosity.


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## EcoDave (Mar 7, 2013)

The only person that has successfully swapped out a non-Mylink unit with a MyLink one was a Brazilian guy who worked at a manufacturing plant in Brazil. 
He had a lot of resources readily available and it looks like an extremely complicated process.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-a...-first-cruze-world-adapted-oem-navigator.html

Anyways, Grab the Vifa Tweeters *NOW *before the sale ends.
Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter 264-1028




XtremeRevolution said:


> *The Cookie-Cutter SQ Parts List*​
> 
> You don't have to follow this list, but it is the quickest and most cost effective way to achieve excellent results on a given budget. The two lists will be split between two budgets and two levels of involvement. These will be the Passive and the Active lists. The Passive list is easier to install and more straightforward, but the Active list will sound better while requiring more understanding and learning on your part. I will always recommend the Active if you can afford it, but will make the Passive list available to you should the Active list provide some obstacles.
> 
> ...


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## queencitypr0 (Feb 16, 2011)

OutOThsWrld said:


> I actually want to keep my car looking stock at the moment. An aftermarket touchscreen unit would be nice, but since I just bought the car recently I don't want to make too many changes. Also, the adapters I've seen for the aftermarket units aren't too flattering themselves. If they have one in the same black that the stock unit has then it might look good.


Scosche GM5205B Double/Single DIN Dash Kit For Select 2011-Up


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

My reason for a 100% stock looking car is that I live near Chicago. I've had my system stolen before. If I park in Chicago, I don't want anything attracting attention.

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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

queencitypr0 said:


> Scosche GM5205B Double/Single DIN Dash Kit For Select 2011-Up


VERY nice! I may consider this later on, but barely have the money to do this upgrade.


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

EcoDave said:


> The only person that has successfully swapped out a non-Mylink unit with a MyLink one was a Brazilian guy who worked at a manufacturing plant in Brazil.
> He had a lot of resources readily available and it looks like an extremely complicated process.
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-a...-first-cruze-world-adapted-oem-navigator.html
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heads up! I'll check it out for sure.


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> My reason for a 100% stock looking car is that I live near Chicago. I've had my system stolen before. If I park in Chicago, I don't want anything attracting attention.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


That's definitely a motivator for me as well. On a side note, Justin swung by and showed me his system. WOW...unbelievable. That thing sounds immaculate and the subs are RIDICULOUS! :wtf:


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

OutOThsWrld said:


> That's definitely a motivator for me as well. On a side note, Justin swung by and showed me his system. WOW...unbelievable. That thing sounds immaculate and the subs are RIDICULOUS! :wtf:


The miniDSP based system I recommended earlier for about $550 would sound almost identical to that, minus the subs of course. His system used slightly more expensive parts. To get the exact same front stage as he's using, you'd have to spend ~$70 more. I personally like the Silver Flutes better than his Dayton RS door drivers, but I've never really been a fan of aluminum midbass drivers in a 2-way system. Paper cones are generally more pleasing to the ear when it comes to natural instruments. 

Now you know why I was fighting for the miniDSP. Spend that same money on just a head unit and it won't sound anywhere near what that does. 

The most amazing thing to me is the ability to use very robust tweeters in a very awkward alignment and create an incredible sound stage with a 2-way system. People spend thousands on custom 3-way installs to achieve these results because they limit themselves to weak car audio tweeters that can't play as low as these do. If you remember when you listened to that system, all of the sound combined into one source in the front of the dash. It just blended perfectly. 

When I tell people I design systems that drop jaws, I'm not messing around.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## OutOThsWrld (May 26, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> The miniDSP based system I recommended earlier for about $550 would sound almost identical to that, minus the subs of course. His system used slightly more expensive parts. To get the exact same front stage as he's using, you'd have to spend ~$70 more. I personally like the Silver Flutes better than his Dayton RS door drivers, but I've never really been a fan of aluminum midbass drivers in a 2-way system. Paper cones are generally more pleasing to the ear when it comes to natural instruments.
> 
> Now you know why I was fighting for the miniDSP. Spend that same money on just a head unit and it won't sound anywhere near what that does.
> 
> ...


You're not kidding. All the sound was RIGHT in front of me. There was zero audible distortion. Simiply incredible :not_worthy:


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> Anyways, Grab the Vifa Tweeters *NOW *before the sale ends.
> Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter 264-1028


 Thanks for the tip - just submitted my order.


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