# head studs



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Are you talking about these? Cylinder head bolts.










Torque to yield bolts, throwaway, never could figure this out, on my Japanese Vehicles with an aluminum head on a cast iron block, were reuseable. But not on so called domestic engines. 

rockauto. com has them, 35 bucks plus shipping, normally not too bad for shipping.


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

no studs
I keep pulling them 
looking for performance studs
they got them for the 2.2


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## lakemg (Dec 26, 2015)

It's surprising that ARP doesn't make them. I thought they had all the bases covered... I wonder if they would custom make you a set?


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

sure arp will make them I called them
for a small fee of 200$ a stud they will
I also checked with zzperformance they don't do them for the 1.4 Luj
and they do eco performance


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Attaching the head to the engine block? Using the same size threads? Need a ARP thread chaser, follow the same recommended torque sequence.

Having a problem comprehending the advantage of these.

What I would like to see is an aftermarket cast iron head for this thing, this way could scrap those torque to yield bolts. And if the coolant temperature rose 5*F, wouldn't have to be concerned about that aluminum head cracking.

I feel I could live with 5 extra pounds of weight. Back in the good old days, use to port and polish these things. And a Cruze for a performance vehicle? Goes just as fast at 3 mph on a congested freeway just as fast as any other vehicle.


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## lakemg (Dec 26, 2015)

dak10 said:


> sure arp will make them I called them
> for a small fee of 200$ a stud they will
> I also checked with zzperformance they don't do them for the 1.4 Luj
> and they do eco performance


$200/stud???? Holy crap!!!


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

OP never came back for the application nor the reason, cylinder head studs? Just a bolt without a head on it, but a nut instead. 37 Ford flathead used these, with a 45* slope on a V-8, was nice for aligning a new head gasket with studs. Or would slide off and end up on the floor.

57 Chevy used studs for the rocker arms, were pressed in, and anything that could be pressed in could be pushed out, a problem. Aftermarket threaded studs were available for around a quarter each, this was a necessity. Anything above the Chevy used threaded studs they didn't fall out.

Still need torque to yield for this aluminum head 1.4L or else it will fall off. Torque all 12 to 26 ft.-lbs starting in the center and work to the outside evenly. Then rotate each one the same sequence 180 degrees. Those last few degrees can give you a heart attack, wonder if the heads are going break off or not. Use only a six point socket. 

Looked a several kits on that site, thread size is the same, what's the difference?


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

I'm still looking for studs
keep in mind fella's I been doing this for 30+ year I know how to torque a head
I'm not going to pay ARP for this when 2.2L head studs are only 145$
gess I will wait for then to make them in the mean time I will just keep buying bolt kits
but I did get my hands on a complete 1.4L LUJ for a 100$ all good parts to
so I think I will pay the local guy to do them he won't charge me 200$ a stud


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## lakemg (Dec 26, 2015)

Got any videos of this cool rivermaster? Sounds like a neat setup.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

dak10-

I think your one of the first who has removed and reinstalled a head. Can this be done without the GM tools for cam holding when removing the timing chain from the sprockets? Any tips to share, either what your using to mark and maintain position, or the aftermarket tools your using?


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## countryboy90 (Nov 26, 2014)

NickD said:


> OP never came back for the application nor the reason, cylinder head studs? Just a bolt without a head on it, but a nut instead. 37 Ford flathead used these, with a 45* slope on a V-8, was nice for aligning a new head gasket with studs. Or would slide off and end up on the floor.
> 
> 57 Chevy used studs for the rocker arms, were pressed in, and anything that could be pressed in could be pushed out, a problem. Aftermarket threaded studs were available for around a quarter each, this was a necessity. Anything above the Chevy used threaded studs they didn't fall out.
> 
> ...


They aren't using torque to yield because of the aluminum head as my old 6.2 diesel with cast block and heads have torque to yield head bolts. 
They say torque to yield is suppose to hold better because instead of just torqueing it down were each bolt can have different clamp loads (say a bur in a thread that makes resistance go up so the wrench clicks sooner) with torque to yield that extra degree's are stretching the bolts to they have a more even clamping force. Now the reason people go to studs instead of bolts is because studs have more even clamping force.

To the op about this, measure your head bolts and call arp with the measurements and ask if they have anything else that would work. I just did this with my 6.2 diesel for main bearing studs. I got the thread size and pitch, depth in block before threads start and length of hole the stud has to go thru. Even tho they don't make a kit for my engine they still found studs from other things that will work.


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

sure I videos lots of them
how do I upload them on here or can I upload them here


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> dak10-
> 
> I think your one of the first who has removed and reinstalled a head. Can this be done without the GM tools for cam holding when removing the timing chain from the sprockets? Any tips to share, either what your using to mark and maintain position, or the aftermarket tools your using?


no I don't think it can b done without the cam tool kit
I got one off e-bay for 180$ kent moore tool wanted 690$ for it the dealer said they did have the kit
the kit has everything in it u need to do the job
the dealer wouldn't do it for me at all so I had to do my homework on this 
you don't have to remove the front timing cover to do a head gasket
tip 1 and I know better but I did it per gm manual clean and dry head bolt this was my mistake
the kit is a Sealey model no. cse5007







going to do this again and lube the bolts this time and see if it works better


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

countryboy90 said:


> They aren't using torque to yield because of the aluminum head as my old 6.2 diesel with cast block and heads have torque to yield head bolts.
> They say torque to yield is suppose to hold better because instead of just torqueing it down were each bolt can have different clamp loads (say a bur in a thread that makes resistance go up so the wrench clicks sooner) with torque to yield that extra degree's are stretching the bolts to they have a more even clamping force. Now the reason people go to studs instead of bolts is because studs have more even clamping force.
> 
> To the op about this, measure your head bolts and call arp with the measurements and ask if they have anything else that would work. I just did this with my 6.2 diesel for main bearing studs. I got the thread size and pitch, depth in block before threads start and length of hole the stud has to go thru. Even tho they don't make a kit for my engine they still found studs from other things that will work.


Get your information from an engineering materials handbook instead off some idiot off the net.

RDS can be machined and formed to a stud or a bolt, take your choice, induction heated to around 2,200*F, then oil squenched for hardening. than had to slowly heated to around 1,300*F and cooled slowly or it will be too brittle and snap like a cracker.

In use, Young's modulus of elasticity is exceeded. for a torque to yield application that permanently deforms it. The spring type action, this is also how springs are made is what equalized the compression forces. And thus also a throwaway part. But still retains a degree of springiness. 

Key reason for their use is that a cast aluminum head has seven times the coefficient of thermal expansion then on a cast iron engine block. They have to be able to expand, then contract to their original dimensions to maintain proper torque. 

Another advantage of torque to yield, a smaller diameter bolt (or stud) can be used to make the stockholders happier. 

Designing this stuff is a team effort, mechanical, materials, stress analysis, production, machinist type engineers. If you stay half awake during these meetings, can ever learn something, but also watch out for those bean counters, also always there with the prime consideration of cost. Then their is mostly the EPA and OSHA concerns for compliance.


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

https://youtu.be/tjhydmutHN8 video that was asked to see


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

dak10-

About a year ago there were some posts by a member chuckitt who was working on an airboat. Is this your company? I think the airboat application is pretty cool. 

Here's a link to Trifecta's site with pictures of this engine setup for those that haven't seen an air boat setup. 

Cruze 1.4L Turbo set-up for Airboat - chuckitt - Gallery - trifectaperformance.com 

There's one person over at the sonic forums who's pulled apart a 1.4L Preloader I believe is his name, but I haven't seen the assembly of the head without the tools that you mention. They are available in the UK, and i believe I remember seeing an Italian manufacturer. 

There's an online site if you google Vauxhall Workshop Manuals Astra J, you'll find a site with some LUJ info from Europe. Most of the special tools in Europe are known with EN numbers, vs. the Kent Moore J numbers here in the states. The EN numbers have aftermarket manufacturers. Some of these may come in handy when you start tearing down an engine. 

Welcome to the site, and thanks for sharing your info. Your a true engine internal pioneer with what your working on!


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Okay, nothing to do with a stock Cruze. Would help to know this.

Subaru's were more popular for experiment aircraft use, maybe because these are horizontally opposed engines, look a bit closer to an aircraft engine. But still required liquid cooling that would add a lot of extra dead weight.

But because it was an automotive engine, and not an aircraft engine, was almost affordable. Ha, not sure, but feel the 1.4L is also a liquid cooled engine. Translated, more problems. 

Are you using sea water for cooling? Got a Volvo with a 350 Chevy that they claim is made to their specifications that uses sea water. Have to remember to drain and blow it out before the first frost. Got on boating site, too much grief, people that didn't know they were suppose to do this had some major problems.

Apparently Volvo specializations did not include using a stainless steel block, still cast iron. People using these things in salt water also had their share of problems. We are strictly in fresh water, but still have to watch that temperature gauge due to water weeds that can plug the intake. 

Ha, if I had an aircraft engine driving a fan, wouldn't have these problems. But would have to wear a hat with a string on it.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Other solution is this.










Only adds $$$$$$ to the cost of the boat, blue can be anti-freeze.


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

well all my coolant this the same u run or better
I don't use sea water or swamp water as far as the aircraft engine he stops to cool off and I'm still going
I would like to out this tuned engine and see what it can do
my tune is from trifectia so my trouble are from my boost pressure
lets b real if u shave the head far enough boost pressure will go up (check valve clearance)
and I can still make my own studs if I choose to

I also know most people here see the relationship or understand what I have done to this little kick ass engine


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Running that high of a boost pressure, you may or may not be able to keep the head gasket together. I looked at some of your earlier posts or the pictures in your profile, where propane was mentioned. 

Your fueling with standard 93 Octane gas, or is this the Trifecta E-85 ethanol tune. Or are you really extreme and trying to feed propane or CNG?

I kind of doubt the latter propane fuel. However, would the E-85 tune with the 45-50 lb fuel injectors get you in the same power range, but do it at a lower boost pressure?

Based on your earlier posts, this maybe your second head gasket job? Therefore your looking for studs to make this change easier and potentially stronger? 

At least you have a cast Iron block to work with, and you don't have to worry about pulling the threads out of an aluminum block..


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

dak10 said:


> well all my coolant this the same u run or better
> I don't use sea water or swamp water as far as the aircraft engine he stops to cool off and I'm still going
> I would like to out this tuned engine and see what it can do
> my tune is from trifectia so my trouble are from my boost pressure
> ...


Stock boost pressure in the little 1.4L engine is already 35 psi peak pressure, need an electronic type pressure gauge with a scope to read it, boost gauge shows average, and what that intake manifold sees is nothing but average. Pressures are jumping up and down all over the place.

Blown head gaskets sounds like a Toyota Supra club I was once in, guys were screwing around with the waste gate valve blowing head gaskets, the weakest link. But not the only thing, throwing rods through the block. Ha, wasn't in that club very long. Was a kit available in 1989 dollars for $10,000.00 to rebuild the entire engine that could take that extra pressure.

One part in particular was an extra heavy head gasket, besides a new crank, piston, rods, just about everything. Kicked that around for awhile, but not really into racing, and can only drive 55 mph anyway.

One thing marketing doesn't like to talk about, the Cruze engine is a consumer grade engine as opposed to an industrial or military grade engine, rather talk about My Link or another piece of junk they add to a vehicle. Only has 12 head bolts that averages out to three per cylinder, this can also be the problem.

One thing you can do with an aircraft you can't do with an air boat, is fly straight down, if that tip of the prop gets anywhere close to the speed of sound, will shatter into a thousand of pieces.

Also brag about a 200K mile engine, if very well taken care of, how about a commercial diesel powered truck that can hit 4 million miles before it requires an overhaul? And can be overhauled. Ever hear of the word, throwaway?


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

I don't think the head gasket is really blown
the first time I tore it down the gasket didn't show any signs of a blow out
I don't think the head bolt r strong enough
this is y am looking for studs
and the symptoms r the same turbo dumping pressure an check engine flashing missing cylinder 2 sometimes
so I'm going to try a ******* fix on it to see if i'm right
I will let ya know in a couple days if it works


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## lakemg (Dec 26, 2015)

Thanks for posting the video. Sure looks like fun!!!


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Cylinder leak down test? Actually use one of my adapters from from my compression tester, and hit it with 150 psi with that cylinder at TDC on the firing stroke.

Put a shut off valve and a pressure gauge in series with the adapter and can time the leak down, if quick, open that valve, can hear and feel if it going out the exhaust, intake, adjacent cylinders, crank case, or into the cooling system.

Course a lot easier when they had timing marks, more for the history books to find TDC, and has to be a TDC or else the piston will go down. Do this by making my own. Take an old spark plug, drill the insides out of it and glue in a wooden dowel, so you can rock the piston back and forth mark those two points and find the center. Take a stiff piece of wire tied to some bolt and bend it at the center. Using pi times the diameter dividing by four can find the other three points for a four cylinder. 

Had to do this on a 92 Buick V-6 3.8L, the CAS was mounted on a bracket that appeared to be bent, if this key reference is off, everything is off, and all that fancy digital equipment is telling you lies. What are they saving by leaving off timing marks, a nickel? These guys really tee me off at times. 

Course with a misfire can be ignition or a bad connection to an injector. An oscilloscope is the best tool to check stuff like these, but those idiots never heard of one, can see pulse trains and spot misfires. Idiots say, use an ohmmeter, but do not test, solid state. Bad enough dealing with other idiots in the world, wouldn't expect this for troubleshooing an engine.

Nothing like going to your Chevy dealer with a low brake pedal, first thing they didn't know rear disc calipers are adjusted by working the hand brake. Then I was told this was not the problem because they weren't getting a code. Really don't have to go to a school for the retarded to find idiots, Chevy dealer is a lot closer. 

Ha, ran into another, your rear bumper isn't falling off, ain't getting a code.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

NickD said:


> Okay, nothing to do with a stock Cruze. Would help to know this.


would help to read


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

boraz said:


> would help to read


Are you referring to this?



> hi all
> can anyone tell me where to get cylinder head studs for my 1.4L
> arp does not make them


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Looks like the stock 1.4L cylinder head bolt is an M9-1.25 by 121 mm long with a Torx head. Sure had to learn metric, but can't seem to think metric, closest so called SAE bolt, actually English is a bit over 5/16" X 18, by 4 3/4" long. And this is providing the information I found on the net for the FEL-PRO ES72474 Cruze head bolt is correct, can't believe what you find on the net is always accurate, but does seem to be a little light for a cylinder head bolt. How about a 1/2 or 9/16"?

Always running into problems with this new crap, like sticking a CRS rolled unplated bolt in aluminum snapping the head off. Thinking about the last ones, a water pump or an EGR valve, have to drill these out and don't care if the new bolt is English or metric, but have to go to the next larger size and use either an English or metric tap, a lot cheaper than replacing an aluminum or cast iron casting. Also have to open the hole to accommodate the larger bolt size. Not talking very much, generally a radius of around 3/64" for a good thread cut. 

Just saying with a suggestion, rather than looking for new head bolts, in my world, a stud is a headless bolt that requires a nut, look for thread sizes and check both the head and the block to see if it has the "meat" to handle a larger bolt, of course, would have to be torque to yield.

Also hate torx, in production, computer driven impact wrenches on a jig can be perfectly in line with the head to drive them in. Not the case when using a long extension bent over the hood trying to hold it in line while turning it 180 degrees, slightest off angle, and you will strip that head off. They don't give a darn about maintenance, just ease of assembly. A torx sticks in the socket, its only advantage compared to a standard hex head. But I suppose if they had any brains, that they don't, could use a magnet to do the same thing. 

Hate working on this new stuff. Used to be would break a wrench than a bolt.


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

This is how I fixed the head trouble I had
Replaced them with stock bolt torque to spec
Run the dog crap out of to for 2 hrs
Removed one at a time and torqued to spec engine was still hot its been close
to 2 yrs now and no trouble so far
My boost pressure is still in the high 20's (28)
She still gives head turn performance


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## dak10ssb (Feb 4, 2013)

The very same bolts 
Pulled them one at a time and replaced with new and torque it 10 degrees more


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