# Lower control arm/ball joint



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

With the correct tools it is a nuts and bolts job…..off with the old, on with the new.
My response is based on replacement due to a loose ball joint.

If the replacement is needed because of a impact damage, it should be performed by a shop since alignment verification will be required.

Rob


----------



## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I would think an alignment would be needed after this work, regardless of reason.


----------



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

My response is based on the fact there are no adjustments, with exception to toe in, on this car.

In general, a control arm is replaced for a failed ball joint (loose) or a control arm rubber bushing peel out.

Once replaced, since the arm is a precision part with no variance regarding mounting points, the factory settings are re-established.

I reiterate though, if the arm is being replaced due to external impact damage, a alignment is required…..most likely the mounting holes will have to be elongated to create adjustability.

Rob


----------



## TheKidJoey (Jul 27, 2013)

Robby said:


> With the correct tools it is a nuts and bolts job…..off with the old, on with the new.





Robby said:


> My response is based on replacement due to a loose ball joint.
> 
> If the replacement is needed because of a impact damage, it should be performed by a shop since alignment verification will be required.
> 
> Rob


not due to accident, just noticed the ball joints boot it trashed.


----------



## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

If the boot is torn, but the joint is good, most won't mess with it. 

It's still a good idea to get your alignment checked afterwards because the new part could have variations from the original. 

Hardest part of the job is separating the ball joint from the knuckle.


----------



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Pickle fork?


----------



## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

I don't know on these. It could be a pinch bolt, and then you just need a chain and prybar to pull it down.


----------



## TheKidJoey (Jul 27, 2013)

I need to get an alignment any way, I just installed coilovers. That's when I noticed the ball joint boot. I'm just trying to be proactive. No sense in getting an alignment if this ball joint is going to go bad. Rather take car of the issue now. The car has 93xxx on it so it probably the best to handle it now.


----------



## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

I like your style sir. I'm actually the same way. It got expensive on a few cars though. Lol


----------



## Ger8mm (Mar 13, 2014)

What are some signs or noises for knowing the joint is bad?


----------



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Ger8mm said:


> What are some signs or noises for knowing the joint is bad?


With the car lifted and the wheels hanging free you grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to move it in and out…..there is no allowable play.
If you feel play, have an observer look at the joint while you reproduce the free play….your helper will see lateral movement at the joint to arm interface if the joint has failed.

At the same time, grab the front and rear of the tire and try to 'steer' it in and out.
Any free play during this test is usually a failed tie rod end….again, have an observer watch the joint to stub interface for relative movement.
Sometimes, this test will uncover a failed inner tie rod ball end….it lives inside the rack and generally requires rack replacement.

Since you're down there, grab the sway bar and try to move it vertically…..you are verifying the end links are still sound.
Any feeling of looseness calls for link replacement.

That should keep everyone occupied for a while, ay?

Rob


----------



## Ger8mm (Mar 13, 2014)

Robby said:


> With the car lifted and the wheels hanging free you grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to move it in and out…..there is no allowable play.
> If you feel play, have an observer look at the joint while you reproduce the free play….your helper will see lateral movement at the joint to arm interface if the joint has failed.
> 
> At the same time, grab the front and rear of the tire and try to 'steer' it in and out.
> ...



:sigh:


----------



## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

You are correct except that inner tie rod ends typically come out without replacing the rack. 

If you're very in tune with your car you'll feel vague steering or awkward movement over bumps. I typically check my suspension at 50k and again at every 25k after that, just for some security.


----------



## TheKidJoey (Jul 27, 2013)

The joint is probable still good. I just want to take care of it before it becomes an issue.


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Toyota used those cradle like brake pad holders with metal clips where rust would build up in between those clips and pad brackets binding the pads burning those up as the rotors as well. Cruze engineers copied this, even with all the negative reviews on Toyota brakes posted at the time.

Honda's did not use replaceable ball joints, an integral part of the control arm, joints were welded in solid, also received negative reviews, guess what else the Cruze engineers copied? The entire control arm has to be replaced.










Yep I looked at my Cruze, sure enough, joints are welded in solid, entire control arm has to be replaced.










Ironically, gmpartsdirect.com seems to have the lowest price, except for S&H charges.



[ 2 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / SUSPENSION COMPONENTS / Lower cntrl arm   *Part Number: 13334022 

lower cntrl arm Left*
MSRP*Online Price*$113.16*$69.02*  
 

 
 

    [ 2 ] FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / SUSPENSION COMPONENTS / Lower cntrl arm   *Part Number: 13334023 

lower cntrl arm Right


*
MSRP*Online Price*$113.16*$69.02
*
 


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Could never find just the rubber boot for ball joints separately, that fork is the worse possible way to remove a joint that will wreck any boot in a hurry. I use an air hammer with a blunt nose tip after removing the nut. One squeeze of the trigger its out, even on a large truck joint. Have to remove the two lower bolts on the strut first, might as just as well remove that top nut and get it out of the way.

Take off your boot, go to lonely parts house and see if he/she can find a boot as is as close to possible as yours. Have to buy the entire joint, but can give that back to the parts guys or just pitch it. 

Torque on the ball joint nut is only 22 ft-lbs, control arms to subframe is 52, lower strut bolts are 66, top is 34 ft-lbs.

Sure getting nailed on rubber parts lately, how about 42 bucks for two master cylinder rubber rings, buying a whole new power rack steering with just a defective tie rod end boot, half axle boots are more expensive than buying a rebuilt half axle.

Now that ball joint boot. Criminal, who wrecked it?


----------



## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

I saw a balljoint boot the other day that was ripped but they covered it quite nicely in electrical tape. The owner said that was 3 years ago and it was still good. 


Sent from the sexy electrician


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

money_man said:


> I saw a balljoint boot the other day that was ripped but they covered it quite nicely in electrical tape. The owner said that was 3 years ago and it was still good.
> 
> 
> Sent from the sexy electrician


Shh! Also helps to seal the end of that tape with hot glue.


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

So much for adding zerk fittings to the ball joints, been doing this for years. They last a heck of a lot long with an occasional shot of grease.

Now I would have to find an old control arm to test it so I don't wreck what I already have. Suppose on next years model, not only the control arms, but will also have to change the subframe as well if just one joint goes bad. 

Ha, in looking over my old tools ran across my bushing installer and reamer for king pins, haven't used this for a long time. And my diamond tipped tool and cutter for starter motors, major problems was worn brushes. With this new crap, making the commutators so thin today, nothing left of them. Forced to buy a new starter with a whole bunch of other stuff.


----------



## TheKidJoey (Jul 27, 2013)

Any of you guys know how to seperate these ball joints. I got the drive side one out with a rubber mallet, but the pass side won't budge at all.


----------



## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

Does this car gave a pinch bolt or is it forced in? 


If it has a force fit what I do is use a chain and pry bar to pull down on the arm and hit the knuckle with the hammer at the same time. It's easiest with two people. 

If a pinch bolt, I use a chisel bit in an air hammer to separate the knuckle around the joint while pressing down on the control arm. 

Y
Good luck man.


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Use a hammer for pounding in nails or pounding out dents, good way to wreck ball joints.

Just use an impact air hammer with a blunt nosed tip on the top of the ball joint stud, pops out in a half a second, even with road salt.


----------

