# 2013 Cruze A/C off due to high engine temp



## jwandell (Jan 27, 2018)

I am working on a 2013 1.4L Cruze and it is doing the whole "A/C off due to high engine temp". After that message the temp gauge continues to rise and says "engine overheated idle engine". I started with the basics on this but here is what I have done so far.

~Coolant level is fine...pressurized the cooling system and there is NO leaks 
~Replaced BOTH temp sensors (one on the radiator, and one on the coolant valve)
~Replaced thermostat, which incidentally had exploded and was broken
~Also replaced the coolant valve since it did have the typical crack on the neck 
~Ran the car with a temp gauge on it and the engine is NOT actually overheating...it just thinks it is

The car will drive fine until it gets to running temp then it starts with these errors. What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for any advice!


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Is this perhaps a salvage title or flood car?


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## jwandell (Jan 27, 2018)

No it is not. Second owner, clean title.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

The one on your radiator is probably the fan switch. The other one might be your gauge. I'm not sure but there might be a 3rd sensor triggering the messages. Unless the one you replace has 3 wires. Others would know for sure. I'm guessing in the head if there's a 3rd one. 

There's another thread on here with your exact same problem. Might look for it to see what his problem was.


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## jwandell (Jan 27, 2018)

There doesn't appear to be a third sensor. Again I have replaced to my knowledge everything that controls or monitors the temp. When the temp shows on the gauge to be rising...it goes up very fast and then comes down very fast (not the way temps work). but again the car isn't actually overheating.


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## pcdj64 (Jan 17, 2018)

jwandell said:


> There doesn't appear to be a third sensor. Again I have replaced to my knowledge everything that controls or monitors the temp. When the temp shows on the gauge to be rising...it goes up very fast and then comes down very fast (not the way temps work). but again the car isn't actually overheating.


did you replace the sensors with Dorman or GM OEM? i have seen the aftermarket sensors screw up right out of the box.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Have you reviewed these threads? Why not take it in to the Dealer

[FONT=Arimo, HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]

[h=6]#PI1027: AC Off Due to High Engine Temp Message on DIC - (Jul 30, 2013)[/h]By mcg75 in forum Gen1 Service Issues

Replies: 15Last Post: 10-28-2016, 10:53 AM​
[h=6]Normal coolant temp, thermostats, and AC off due to high engine temp[/h]By UpstateNYBill in forum Gen1 Service Issues

Replies: 11Last Post: 08-17-2016, 10:19 PM​
[h=6]Cruze NOT starting - AC off DUE to High Engine TEMP[/h]By Brian4Cruze in forum General Discussion

Replies: 14Last Post: 01-13-2016, 06:07 AM​
[h=6]AC off due to high engine temp. on my Cruze[/h]By JRGLTZ in forum Gen1 Service Issues

Replies: 27Last Post: 12-16-2014, 11:52 PM​
[h=6]A/c off due to high engine temp[/h]By cruzelt12 in forum Gen1 Service Issues


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## jwandell (Jan 27, 2018)

I replaced everything with OEM parts. I have read those threads. A common problem that seems to keep coming up is the water pump. I have not changed that yet. I just don't understand how the temp gauge is fluctuating so quickly. If the water pump was failing/failed would that cause the gauge to react this way?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

[h=1]New Thermostat Failing or Sensor or Other?[/h]


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## Chinashopbull87 (Feb 1, 2018)

I had that happen it was the water pump GM actually had a special warranty / recall for the water pump


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Johng (Feb 4, 2018)

I’m having the same problem with the same fixes previously performed. Going to be replacing the radiator this weekend and the radiator cap when it gets delivered.


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## Johng (Feb 4, 2018)

Changed the radiator and have not been able to get the engine to over heat again in a week. It was clogged due to a combination of stop leak and two different kinds of coolant. Hope this helps.


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## Iamtheonlyjjj (Oct 26, 2018)

Check your top hose from your res to the water out....I have seen them leaking from right where the quick connect is and Dormat has rebuild the water outlet due to checks and leaking issue cause by poor design on chevys end..Also if the radiator caps are suppose to have orings and the venting tube on top has cause issues as well and Dormat has made them as well..They also report leaks at or failure of thd temp sensors on by the rad and one up by the outlet...the thing is with all these leaks the antifreeze dont end up on the ground...lol..I have yet to see it actually be a water pump....Message me if you have any questions...


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

jwandell said:


> I am working on a 2013 1.4L Cruze and it is doing the whole "A/C off due to high engine temp". After that message the temp gauge continues to rise and says "engine overheated idle engine". I started with the basics on this but here is what I have done so far.
> 
> ~Coolant level is fine...pressurized the cooling system and there is NO leaks
> ~Replaced BOTH temp sensors (one on the radiator, and one on the coolant valve)
> ...


I know this was a year ago but I'm having the same situation and the mechanic has done everything did you ever get this figured out I'm trying to avoid spending lots of money because this seems to be a common problem


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## GMDONE (Oct 15, 2019)

Kristy said:


> I know this was a year ago but I'm having the same situation and the mechanic has done everything did you ever get this figured out I'm trying to avoid spending lots of money because this seems to be a common problem


Hi Kristy. So what is everything your mechanic has tried or answers you were given? How many miles are on your Cruze?
Kind of radical I almost begin to wonder did some one put software bugs for the holidays for this over heating issue.


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

GMDONE said:


> Hi Kristy. So what is everything your mechanic has tried or answers you were given? How many miles are on your Cruze?
> Kind of radical I almost begin to wonder did some one put software bugs for the holidays for this over heating issue.


You never know these days oh, it is very frustrating. My mechanic has changed the thermostat the temperature sensors and the water pump. I'm already looking at about $500 worth of work and still a broken car, now he's saying it's got to be a blown head gasket. I tend to disagree looking at all of the issues with this car online I don't think it is something that serious. I just bought the car 8 months ago.and of course no on it so I really can't afford for nothing serious to be wrong. Any help would be so appreciated because I am at wit's end. The car has about 95,000 miles on it 2013


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## GMDONE (Oct 15, 2019)

Kristy said:


> You never know these days oh, it is very frustrating. My mechanic has changed the thermostat the temperature sensors and the water pump. I'm already looking at about $500 worth of work and still a broken car, now he's saying it's got to be a blown head gasket. I tend to disagree looking at all of the issues with this car online I don't think it is something that serious. I just bought the car 8 months ago.and of course no on it so I really can't afford for nothing serious to be wrong. Any help would be so appreciated because I am at wit's end. The car has about 95,000 miles on it 2013


What is the car doing? Are you loosing coolant with no signs of it? Before it ended up in the shop did you have a chance to check the oil? Sadly they can blow head gaskets. Which can also be determined by having a compression test done.


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

He did the compression test but said it looks normal the only reason why he's saying head gaskets is because that's the only thing left the car was running perfectly fine I changed the oil and replace the antifreeze hose that's hooked up to the reservoir tank and driving home it started to overheat... I have been without a car a week. I see this as a constant issue all over online and I don't know maybe I'm crazy but it looks like a easy fix I'm no mechanic


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## GMDONE (Oct 15, 2019)

No. This mechanic is not being honest. If the head gasket is even slightly going your not going to get normal compression readings. 
The reservoir tank is a very common problem and is replaced very easily. Just maybe this is the issue. But also have you ever had the cooling system flushed? Radiator hoses replaced? And yes these cars have chronic problems. Even after the parts have been replaced. Could even be the cap on the overflow tank. But I wouldn't agree to head gasket because that's the last thing he can think of.


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

I agree completely. Unfortunately I couldn't take it to dealer and had it towed to this guy. According to him, he has done everything. I'm not mechanically inclined so I have no idea. I am a single mom and cannot afford to pay for major replacements. I don't even know what to tell him next.....


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

It does not look like it is leaking he says, anywhere.


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## GMDONE (Oct 15, 2019)

Kristy said:


> I agree completely. Unfortunately I couldn't take it to dealer and had it towed to this guy. According to him, he has done everything. I'm not mechanically inclined so I have no idea. I am a single mom and cannot afford to pay for major replacements. I don't even know what to tell him next.....


You wouldn't get any better results with a dealership. My 2014 has been at the dealer for over 2 weeks. Only reason is due to previous work done under warranty.
Are you loosing coolant? 
I dont think I would agree to the head gasket. This is a sticky situation. 
It is possible that the thermostat housing and sensor he replaced is bad. BTW it's all one piece plastic house,gasket,thermostat and gasket. New parts do go bad.
Maybe some other members can chime in. Lots of conversations about this problem over the last few weeks.


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## GMDONE (Oct 15, 2019)

GMDONE said:


> You wouldn't get any better results with a dealership. My 2014 has been at the dealer for over 2 weeks. Only reason is due to previous work done under warranty.
> Are you loosing coolant?
> I dont think I would agree to the head gasket. This is a sticky situation.
> It is possible that the thermostat housing and sensor he replaced is bad. BTW it's all one piece plastic house,gasket,thermostat and gasket. New parts do go bad.
> Maybe some other members can chime in. Lots of conversations about this problem over the last few weeks.


There's a cylinder leak down test he can do that is more sensitive in theory different than a compression test. But if compression isnt showing any slight changes, I still wouldn't agree with the head gasket. If you're not loosing coolant. Does the check engine light come on? What codes has the shop seen?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Kristy said:


> I know this was a year ago but I'm having the same situation and the mechanic has done everything did you ever get this figured out I'm trying to avoid spending lots of money because this seems to be a common problem


Make sure there is no fluid of any type in the sensor connectors. Blow them out with some compressed air.


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

GMDONE said:


> There's a cylinder leak down test he can do that is more sensitive in theory different than a compression test. But if compression isnt showing any slight changes, I still wouldn't agree with the head gasket. If you're not loosing coolant. Does the check engine light come on? What codes has the shop seen?


The check engine light come on very briefly one or two times this is my second mechanic it was towed from the first mechanic that works very closely to him and I told this new mechanic that they were missing head gasket and now he's saying head gasket even though he was like that can't be the head gasket.I am so frustrated with this as this is my only vehicle and I work about 45 minutes away from where I live, AutoZone give me a code of p00 B7 engine coolant flow low performance. I just don't understand that I owe this guy and still have a broken car I get it the time he spent in it but I just don't understand how this is so completely difficult to figure out


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Pull your coil pack, remove the plugs and send an endoscope into the bores. If the cylinders are clean, wet or damaged in any way, you have an internal coolant leak.

Causes for this engine code may include: 

Low coolant 
Stuck thermostat 
Defective ECT sensor 
Faulty radiator coolant temperature sensor 
Shorted or open circuits or connectors 
Bad PCM or 
PCM programming error

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p00b7


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

Blasirl said:


> Pull your coil pack, remove the plugs and send an endoscope into the bores. If the cylinders are clean, wet or damaged in any way, you have an internal coolant leak.
> 
> Causes for this engine code may include:
> 
> ...


thank you so much I will pass along this information to my mechanic he seems to be completely baffled about what's going on he's giving me about five different scenarios, and this just popped up out of completely nowhere


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## GMDONE (Oct 15, 2019)

Kristy said:


> The check engine light come on very briefly one or two times this is my second mechanic it was towed from the first mechanic that works very closely to him and I told this new mechanic that they were missing head gasket and now he's saying head gasket even though he was like that can't be the head gasket.I am so frustrated with this as this is my only vehicle and I work about 45 minutes away from where I live, AutoZone give me a code of p00 B7 engine coolant flow low performance. I just don't understand that I owe this guy and still have a broken car I get it the time he spent in it but I just don't understand how this is so completely difficult to figure out


As you see what Blasirl posted. Its complex and a mechanic that doesnt really know which direction to go or lacks in extensive troubleshooting skills leads to incorrect repairs. This car isnt the trouble free car. It's a rats nest. But I will forewarn on the coil pack the boots tear which are basically like plug wires the 1st GM dealership with the incompetence team of code readers ripped my boots when my stabilatrack went nuts. Taped them up with black tape. I did my own repair. But it's the only way to get the plugs out.
Maybe another shop? I fully understand not having the car. And the expenses associated with trying to resolve failures.


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## Kristy (Dec 23, 2019)

I don't know about taking it to another shop I g


GMDONE said:


> As you see what Blasirl posted. Its complex and a mechanic that doesnt really know which direction to go or lacks in extensive troubleshooting skills leads to incorrect repairs. This car isnt the trouble free car. It's a rats nest. But I will forewarn on the coil pack the boots tear which are basically like plug wires the 1st GM dealership with the incompetence team of code readers ripped my boots when my stabilatrack went nuts. Taped them up with black tape. I did my own repair. But it's the only way to get the plugs out.
> Maybe another shop? I fully understand not having the car. And the expenses associated with trying to resolve failures.


 I was thinking about taking it to another shop but this will be the third one and I hate to start the process all over again but I also hate being stuck with new part in the car that I didn't need in being charged for him while he played process of elimination. I appreciate all the information you have given me I have been looking this up for a week and a half now


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

GMDONE said:


> As you see what Blasirl posted. Its complex and a mechanic that doesnt really know which direction to go or lacks in extensive troubleshooting skills leads to incorrect repairs. This car isnt the trouble free car. It's a rats nest. But I will forewarn on the coil pack the boots tear which are basically like plug wires the 1st GM dealership with the incompetence team of code readers ripped my boots when my stabilatrack went nuts. Taped them up with black tape. I did my own repair. But it's the only way to get the plugs out.
> Maybe another shop? I fully understand not having the car. And the expenses associated with trying to resolve failures.





Kristy said:


> I don't know about taking it to another shop I g
> I was thinking about taking it to another shop but this will be the third one and I hate to start the process all over again but I also hate being stuck with new part in the car that I didn't need in being charged for him while he played process of elimination. I appreciate all the information you have given me I have been looking this up for a week and a half now


























Gap with this, check with this, and throw this away!

Remember to re-gap your plugs to .028, torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug, ensure the boots have no rips / tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric / silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them. Read _Hesitation Gone!_ if you need new plugs.

Use a very small flat tip screw driver coated with silicone grease to gently pry around the boots and if needed inside the boots. Slowly and be careful when prying or just buy new boots.


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