# Sticky  2014-15 Diesel: What broke and at how many miles?



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

wanna make a one stop place to share what has broken on these cars and what miles

see if theres a pattern, know how long components will last, etc...


oil filter gutter 50k
rear shocks 60k
battery 70k
front shocks 80k
front brakes 90k
rear brakes 90k
front hub 100k
rear hub 120k
glow plugs 125k


im emissions deleted so that stuff breaking isnt reportable in my case


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

im wonderng lifespan of starter, alternator, glow plugs, fuel pump, cv joints, end links, ball joints etc...of course itll depend on use, city/hwy, rough roads etc....but get a baseline kinda thing


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## Detrious (Jul 5, 2017)

boraz said:


> wanna make a one stop place to share what has broken on these cars and what miles
> 
> see if theres a pattern, know how long components will last, etc...
> 
> ...


I'm at 132k. My oil filter gutter fell off around 125k. Battery got done earlier this year, original factory battery, ~115k. Front and rear brake were done recently at around 125k, fronts were gone but rears had about half left. Haven't had anything else on that list yet.

Currently need a particular sensor, code showed up around 125k. Had DEF heater codes late last winter but once it warmed up they've yet to return. However I had that replaced once under warranty at 60k and it went bad again at ~120k so that seems to be a 60k item in my experience.


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## mkohan (Dec 19, 2015)

Currently at 114,000 mile, Front and rear brakes done at 98,000. Timing belt, tensioner, water pump at 103,000. Battery at about 75,000 (3 YRS). DEF heater at 58,00 and at 105,000 (under warranty). I retired in 2018 so the car was driven mostly highway for first 3 yrs (85,000 miles). mostly city since at 10,000 per yr. Oil & filter every 7,500 (Penzoil euro). Fuel filter very 30,000. Been a great reliable car for me.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

I’m currently at 104,000 miles.

Warranty Pay:
Human Machine Interface
OnStar Antenna
HVAC fan
windshield wiper motor and transmission
six side detection modules
two side detection module harnesses
two DEF heaters
Transmission Control Module
transmission valve body
transaxle
EDIT:
a few emissions sensors, probably three, uncertain if NOx or O2
battery ground cable
oil drain bolt
exhaust flange bolt
High Pressure Fuel Pump

Customer Pay:
two batteries
brake pads and rotors all around
transmission cooler hose
windshield
three fuel filters
two engine air filters
two HVAC filters
engine oil and filter always changed at 0% oil life monitor
EDIT:
serpentine accessory drive belt at 95,900 miles.
passenger vanity mirror cover at 96,100 miles.
timing belt, water pump and related at 97,900 miles.
thermostat and housing assembly at 99,300 miles.
four OEM tires at 103,900 miles. (Vehicle spends five months of the year on four winter tires. So nine years and about 60K on the factory tires. Replaced due to onset of dry rot.)

Always use Total INEO MC3 5W30 dexos2 motor oil and Shell V-Power diesel fuel.

It’s been a great car. But I’ve gotten my money’s worth out of GMPP: Nine years / 106K.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Tomko said:


> I’m currently at 95,600 miles.
> 
> Warranty Pay:
> Human Machine Interface
> ...


the side detection modules----were they all the old style ones before the weatherproofed them better, or those ones still dont last?

i had two replaced warranty, then they failed again before they extended the mileage for the new replacements, i just disconnected them


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i have a spare wiper transmission, bought it after a wave of members here had issues, it was cheap when i bought it

i have october off, gonna look closer at it, see its showing signs i should just pre-emptively replace


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I think we're closing in on 120k miles now. Car was purchased new at 91 miles on 5-13-14.

Prior to 2-8-20 (at 105,634 miles), we ran ACDelco dexos2 oil to ~7500 miles each change @ 0% life, afterwards Pennzoil Euro L to ~8900 miles.

This log doesn't include regular maintenance (so no oil changes, fuel/air filters, DEF, etc):

Passenger Side Detection Sensor Replaced (36,887 miles, 3-20-16)
Passenger Side Detection Sensor Reprogrammed (42,683 miles, 6-24-16)
O2 #1, NOx #1 & DEF Reservoir Replaced (44,403 miles, 8-4-16)
NOx #1, O2 Sensor Replaced, ECU Recalibrated - Recall #15594 (50,403 miles, 11-21-16)
Negative Battery Cable Replaced (55,626 miles, 3-8-17)
Cluster Switching On/Off, MyLink Screen Fuse Blowing - Due to bad driver/passenger side detection sensors/harness. Disconnected (57,169 miles, 4-7-17)
NOx #1 Replaced - Recall, Battery Replaced (64,987 miles, 9-25-17)
Particulate Sensor Replaced - Special Coverage, Replaced Rusted/Broken SCR Bolts (71,626 miles, 2-18-18)
NOx #2 Sensor Replaced (71,798 miles, 2-21-18)
Leaking Transmission Cooler Lines Replaced (73,759 miles, 3-27-18)
EGT #2 Sensor Replaced (81,434 miles, 8-1-18)
Passenger CV Shaft Replaced - Due to falling Oil Filter Gutter (89,591 miles, 2-5-19)
DEF Reservoir Replaced - Shorted Heater, Covered under Special Coverage (95,671 miles, 7-11-19)
NOx #2 Sensor Replaced - Part Warrantied (99,691 miles, 9-26-19)
Front Brake Pads/Rotors Replaced (100,633 miles, 10-13-19)
Front Bowtie Replaced - Center Fell Out (109,852 miles, 6-24-20)
Rear Brake Pads/Rotors Replaced (111,972 miles, 9-20-20)
Passenger Front Sunroof Drain Tube Clogged (113,408 miles, 12-29-20)
Oil Drain Plug Gasket Replaced (115,203 miles, 4-27-21)


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

boraz said:


> the side detection modules----were they all the old style ones before the weatherproofed them better, or those ones still dont last?
> 
> i had two replaced warranty, then they failed again before they extended the mileage for the new replacements, i just disconnected them


The last set of modules and wiring harness were the new design. They haven’t failed. But with the global pandemic the vehicle is barely used - about 1/4 of normal usage. So not the best assessment of their long term viability.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I remember hearing someone say they still had failure issues with the new style - the shields probably help, but ultimately the fact it isn't a sealed unit becomes the Achilles heel.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

18mo/32k miles - O2 Sensor, EGR, Wiper Motor, Power Steering re-calibrated/software updated (all under B2B warranty)

21mo/39k miles - Particulate Matter Sensor (DIY prior to special coverage initiation, so out-of-pocket)
27mo/48k miles - NOX2
32mo/56k miles - DEF reservoir (1st time - DIY prior to special coverage initiation, so out-of-pocket)
48mo/75k miles - Trans Cooler Lines, Battery, End Links
60mo/98k miles - NOX1/ECU Calibration Recall Performed
66mo/108k miles - Timing Service (All related parts replaced)
72mo/118k miles - DEF Reservoir (2nd time), Front/Rear Pads & Rotors
84mo/149k miles - RF Hub/Bearing Assembly, Rear Shocks
85mo/151k miles - Air Intake (duct cracked in 5 places)
87mo/156k miles - Battery (2nd time)
95mo/173k miles - Oil Cooler Coolant Lines
96mo/174k miles - Glow Plugs (weak, not failed), RF End Link, MAP Sensor

I currently have a radiator fan that will not run on high speed, but since it's fall, it's a $600 part, and the only thing impacted is that the A/C struggles to cool when the vehicle isn't moving, I'm going to let that slide until A/C season comes around again next year. I'll do the oil pickup seal also at that time, as well as pull/clean the intake manifold.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

boraz said:


> im wonderng lifespan of starter, alternator, glow plugs, fuel pump, cv joints, end links, ball joints etc...of course itll depend on use, city/hwy, rough roads etc....but get a baseline kinda thing


I just replaced glow plugs at 8yr/174k. They weren't failed, but all last winter, it cranked a long time to start, even on a brand new battery. Once I pulled the plugs last weekend, I think it was their time and it was a good choice to replace preemptively. I'll create a thread with photo and description in the next couple days when I have a chance.

Factory Polymer end links were soft/loose at 4yr/75k, and I replaced with Moog steel end links. One of those failed now at 8yr/174k. I replaced it with a Detroit Axle steel end link and I have a match waiting for the LF when it goes. Everything else you mention is still factory on mine.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

boraz said:


> i have a spare wiper transmission, bought it after a wave of members here had issues, it was cheap when i bought it
> 
> i have october off, gonna look closer at it, see its showing signs i should just pre-emptively replace


I bought a wiper motor and transmission 2 years ago, because the wipers were starting to stall and struggle intermittently. By the time the parts arrived, it spontaneously corrected itself, so now I have a set on the shelf for whenever they're eventually needed.


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## 15cruzediesel (Sep 30, 2019)

51,000 miles.

One original battery this past year. Roughly 6 year old battery.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

Just today, new AGM battery for a Gen 1 CTD that was purchased new Dec 2014. (2015 Model CTD now w 75 K miles ) Got 7 years out of original factory battery so it's hard to complain about the battery life.

Def Tank at 49 K miles (no issues since then); Covered by TSB

Nox1 at 34K and a reprogram (warranty)

Tires at 65 K miles

Brakes (new Power Stops upgraded) at 75 K miles (it didn't need em but the OEM brakes are horrible and not enough for this heavy car). The new brakes are awesome and highly recommended over the OEM.

Looking to buy a Gen 2 CTD HB or sedan, (2019 ONLY ) with less than 40 K miles? Know of any??


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

15cruzediesel said:


> 51,000 miles.
> 
> One original battery this past year. Roughly 6 year old battery.


My battery lasted 7 years so we really can't complain about that. Once I got the new one in, the engine, spun and fired off very quickly.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Adding to mine:

Radiator/AC Condenser/Intercooler/Pre-Intercooler Charge Pipe Replaced - Due to Accident (120,352 miles, 10-XX-21 to 11-XX-21)
Battery Replaced for the second time (120,352 miles, 12-3-21)
Post-Intercooler Charge Pipe Replaced - Likely due to accident (120,352 miles, 12-16-21)


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The front ratchet mechanism inside the pulley of the alternator disintergrated at 260K miles on ours. Chunks of ratchet damaged the main shaft bearing and froze the alternator. I swapped the ratchet pulley with a solid pulley from a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Alternator. A 16-1.5mm nut was found among castle nuts from discarded balljoints. The frozen front bearing was noisy and it eventually bound up again a week later but it worked long enough to raise funds for a new alternator.

Those use metal dowels to cam into place when locking up. The dowels disintergrate into chunks with use. Our first reman replacement was a dud. While New-in-box it could spin a few degrees before locking the shaft and that one quickly degraded and made horrid noises. The regulator starting surging between 12.5 and 15.1 Volts as reported in the dash before it abruptly died 3 months and 1400 miles later. It had a lifetime warranty from Autozone so it got exchanged for free and the new one would spin freely in one direction and immediately lockup in the other. That ratchet pulley is quiet and everything works okay so far.

I see the ratchet mechanism as a weak mode of failure and would have already swapped it to the solid pulley except for the lifetime warranty. With that I'll just turn it in for a replacement as soon as the noise and slop returns.

The picture shows the solid pulley from the pacifica. The hole in the side happened the first time the shaft froze and I exercised it free as a stopgap solution.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

The harmonic balancer was replaced at 256K. It created a wobble that wiped out the idler pulleys, the AC clutch pulley, and may have contributed to the Alternator woes. Once the outer sheave seperates from the inner drum the belt was smacking so bad it ate a belt every few hundred miles.

The AC clutch can be replaced from ebay for about $60 without disturbing the expensive and sealed AC compressor. Its the same as the 1.8L Cruze version of AC clutch.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

At 270K miles all five wheel studs sheared off on the driver side after a bad pothole. On the passenger side the studs also had signs of necking due to overtightening by previous owners. I suggest replacing them for peace of mind if the cars history is in question. The Dorman part number 610-389.1 worked well, installed easily, and was marginally better than stock since its fully threaded versus the stock with a bare tip for alignment.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

There is quite a few battery posts here. Batteries do not care about mileage. They degrade with age. They also degrade much quicker if left discharged because a discharged battery will corrode its inner plates much faster than a fully charged battery. The mode of failure is plate corrosion with cheaper batteries having thinner plates that disintergrate faster than better ones. Just about every standard battery will dramatically lose its ability to function between 4 and 5 years of age. Tricks exist to blast the corrosion off and extend the clock but thats not for the faint of heart.

AGM batteries work and age quite well. Our AGM battery was replaced for free twice already with no fuss with the Pep Boys 4 year warranty. Most other retailers prorate their warranty with age and also limit the replacements. Pep Boys just looked at the sticker and if its less than 4 years old they swap it. Thus starts a new 4 year timer.

Avoid Optima batteries unless you routinely operate the vehicle upside down. They work awesome right until they don't. They abruptly die between 2 and 3 years of age typically.

Be aware that Cruze battery cables are poorly made. A recall went out for the negative cables. Ours fritzed out and I found the wire was pulled out and bulged into a ball under the insulation. This picture shows what it looked like when it broke down suddenly for the bad negative cable. The short red one was also in very poor condition and replaced shortly after. The crimp at the alternator also sucked because it was loose and green with rampant corrosion inside the loose crimp. I ran a new ground from the engine to the battery and it caused errors. I had to relocate the extra grounds to the chassis post so that the current sensor isnt bypassed.


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## AdrianCTD (10 mo ago)

202k miles at the moment.
Battery was replaced around 2018 
150k replaced oil sensor gasket / o ring. 
165k all 4 shocks were shot, along with tie rods 
180k A/C compressor 

mileage is approx. didn’t note exact numbers.


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## 15cruzediesel (Sep 30, 2019)

Got a P205 this past week. 

DEF temp out of range.

Sensor in the DEF heater went north.

59,700 miles.


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## Boathook36 (Apr 4, 2021)

At 275K miles the timing belt jumped three cogs. I don't know for sure that the belt was replaced at either the 100K or 200K recommended miles but my hunch is that it was probably replaced at 100K but not at 200K. It caused the car to go into limp mode (transmission stuck in 2nd gear) and showed codes P0016 "Camshaft Position to Crankshaft Position Correlation Error" and P0341 "Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Performance". If in limp mode it showed ABS codes U0101-71 "Lost Communication with Transmission Control Module- Invalid Data", U0100-71 "Lost Communication with Engine Control Module- Invalid Data", and C0800-03 "Control Module Power Circuit- Low Voltage." All those codes cleared with the new timing belt. The timing belt itself was noticeably stretched but the real culprit was the tensioner was left loose by the previous owner when they replaced the injection pump. The old belt had enough cracks and dryrot to maybe be original to the car. 

At 285K we sliced the wire to the passenger side wheel speed sensor. Replacing the sensor cleared the codes. The codes were ABS C0186, C0040, C0800-03, and C0196-71. 

We're just shy of 287K now. We should break 300K before Christmas.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Just passed 200k miles. List of work done.

5,000 miles - Side Object Sensor replaced
11,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
16,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
(I purchased vehicle at 31,000 miles)
32,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced and Flashed ECM
39,000 miles - Nox Sensor Position 1 replaced
47,000 miles - Replaced Side Object sensor
52,000 miles - Replaced Nox Position 1 Sensor
60,000 miles - Replaced Reductant Tank Reservoir Heater
63,000 miles - Resealed leaking oil pan, replaced oil pump pickup seal, pcv tube seal, pcv connector seal
93,000 miles - Replaced 2 Front Drive Axles, Replaced 2 Front Wheel Bearings, Front Rotors
95,000 miles - Replaced Negative Battery Cable (appx miles, I didn't record this in my notes)
108,000 miles - Replaced Side Object Sensors and installed cover per TSB
124,000 miles - Replaced Battery, Replaced Timing Belt, Water Pump, Timing Tensioner, Timing Idler
136,000 miles - Replaced Transmission Cooler Line
137,000 miles - Replaced Reductant Tank Reservoir Heater
146,000 miles - Replaced Inner & Outer Tie Rods
158,000 miles - Replaced Accessory (Serpentine) Belt
177,000 miles - Replaced Lower Control Arms L&R
180,000 miles - Replaced Oil Cooler Inlet Hose
196,000 miles - Replaced Diesel Injector #2


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> Just passed 200k miles. List of work done.
> 
> 5,000 miles - Side Object Sensor replaced
> 11,000 miles - Heated Oxygen Sensor replaced
> ...


im thinking your listing stuff beyond the 'normal' replacement items, (wiper blades, oil changes, filters, etc)...but it is also a detailed list....have you not changed shocks or just not posting them cuz theyre part of 'normal replacement' items?

was the injector leaky?


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

boraz said:


> im thinking your listing stuff beyond the 'normal' replacement items, (wiper blades, oil changes, filters, etc)...but it is also a detailed list....have you not changed shocks or just not posting them cuz theyre part of 'normal replacement' items?
> 
> was the injector leaky?


Yeah, list does not include fluid changes, tires, wipers, and air filters though I do have records of all that (date/miles).

Injector info here.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> Yeah, list does not include fluid changes, tires, wipers, and air filters though I do have records of all that (date/miles).
> 
> Injector info here.


shocks?


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

boraz said:


> shocks?


Nope. I've thought about it but their not leaking, not bouncing, and not doing much forward or backward wobble while accelerating or braking. So my guess their still in good shape.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> Nope. I've thought about it but their not leaking, not bouncing, and not doing much forward or backward wobble while accelerating or braking. So my guess their still in good shape.


Glad to hear that - ours are of a similar nature at ~125k miles. I bought a set of B6s all around, but mainly just to buy them to have on hand should I _need_ to change them. The car still rides/handles in a similar fashion as it always has.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Mine still drives to me like the day I got it.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> Nope. I've thought about it but their not leaking, not bouncing, and not doing much forward or backward wobble while accelerating or braking. So my guess their still in good shape.


my stock ones were shot
the b6s i put on lasted aboot the same
put in discount shocks, they lasted less time, but still cheaper than the bilsteins pro rated
replaced with same discount ones

i saw you replaced ctrl arms and tie rods and was thinking your roads must be worse than mine, but i go thru more shocks than you, so no.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

boraz said:


> i saw you replaced ctrl arms and tie rods and was thinking your roads must be worse than mine, but i go thru more shocks than you, so no.


Tie rod ends I replaced just because I thought the inner's were a little loose as part of my issue with inner tire wear. They were probably fine and it was more of a throwing parts at it.

For the control arms, my left front ball joint was failing so I just did both sides.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Oh, I forgot to mention, around 100k mile I replaced both headlight lenses. One of the orange diffusers on the turn signal lamp broke off inside, so I had both replaced because I could only buy lenses with clear diffusers w/orange bulbs. I also replaced the drivers side sun visor around 150,000k miles becuase it was flopping around on the hinge, though it did this since I bought the car it so it was probably a factory defect on the visor.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

BDCCruze said:


> Oh, I forgot to mention, around 100k mile I replaced both headlight lenses. One of the orange diffusers on the turn signal lamp broke off inside, so I had both replaced because I could only buy lenses with clear diffusers w/orange bulbs. I also replaced the drivers side sun visor around 150,000k miles becuase it was flopping around on the hinge, though it did this since I bought the car it so it was probably a factory defect on the visor.


My drivers side visor has done the same. The issue seems to be the visor clip which was either new from factory weak or getting weak with use. It rattles on bumps ,but otherwise is not much of a concern. Passenger side is fine.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Well the clip thing failed too, yes, but the hinge where it swings was the problem. Like if you had it on the side and turned sharply, the whole visor would swing over and hit me on the head.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> Well the clip thing failed too, yes, but the hinge where it swings was the problem. Like if you had it on the side and turned sharply, the whole visor would swing over and hit me on the head.


That sounds like what my Camaro does, among 30 other annoying things.


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## NUMBER2 (May 23, 2019)

Passenger rear brake caliper bolt (upper) was found MIA last week. I swapped for snows Nov 14th at 138,215 miles. It was not missing then. I drove about 1000 miles since the tire swap. Valve stem leak prompted the tire removal, which is when I found the bolt was missing. All new pads, rotors, and caliper bracket bolts at 123,235 October 30 of last year, everything torqued to spec. It's an M8x1x23.5, torque spec 21ft-lb. Blue loc tite from now on.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

That's mildly concerning - so this was the one _without_ the mass damper, correct?


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## NUMBER2 (May 23, 2019)

Without the mas damper. Yeah, super weird. I was only prompted to take the tire off due to the leaky valve stem. When I went to spin the tire with it up on the lift, there was a suspicious amount of resistance to rotate. Immediately given away when I pulled the tire off and saw that the caliper was just ever so slightly off center.









Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

That is so strange - those don't typically work themselves loose...

God I hate sliding calipers.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i had a lower rear shock bolt work it way out and disappear (my fault, i replaced the shock ~1yr prior) was torqued, i think its one of those TTY bolts, so....play with fire, but thats the only bolt thats come out or loosen on the car and ive reused all the tty bolts


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

i had both rear calipers seize (one fully and one on its way) and take out the inner rear brake pads

i cleaned out the slide holes and slide pins and lubed em up and 30,000 miles and 2yrs later one was seized up again (drivers side), so cleaned em up again and now every spring and fall when i switch out the winter/summer tires, i spend some time on the slides

i wondered if it was the actual piston seizing or a combo, so bought new calipers, but of course wrong ones were sent, soo am contiuing with the 2x a yr 'fixing'


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## NUMBER2 (May 23, 2019)

Confirmed today that my lower slide is seized on both rears. 100 bucks for a pair of brackets and kits from the dealer, re-machine the rotors and I'll be on my way with the same regimen as you from now on @boraz. Pads have a half mm or less of taper wear, I can live with that.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

NUMBER2 said:


> Confirmed today that my lower slide is seized on both rears. 100 bucks for a pair of brackets and kits from the dealer, re-machine the rotors and I'll be on my way with the same regimen as you from now on @boraz. Pads have a half mm or less of taper wear, I can live with that.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


Further cementing my hatred for sliding calipers. Thank god my brother's Regal has Brembos up front, though he still has slidings out back (though at least with ventilated rotors).


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