# SQ build 2011 cruze



## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

*Equipment*

15 inch 2515 DD

DD m2c two channel full range ampifiler

Hybrid-audio stage one 6.5 

AQ 1200.1 

Stock headunit

*AudioControl-LC6i*


Stock tweeters

Kinetic 800 

Knu knocepts 0/1 guage wiring Two runs to front battery, one ground and one positive, i did this to in order to keep the whine down and so far its worked. 

I have tapped into the speaker wire in the driver side kick panel for now.


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)




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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)




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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

rhodges28 said:


> Knu knocepts 0/1 guage wiring Two runs to front battery, one ground and one positive, i did this to in order to keep the whine down and so far its worked.
> 
> I have tapped into the speaker wire in the driver side kick panel for now.


you say you dont not have any alternator whine at all? everyone else that has added either a 4ch or 2ch for the front speakers have been getting feed back when headlights are on and when you apply the brakes...

what input are you useing for your amp, RCA or speaker wire?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

You really need to get rid of those stock tweeters and use a conponent set for an sq build. You don't know what you're missing out on. I'm glad you deadened the door panels though. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using AutoGuide App


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

I have speaker wire running back to my audio control lc6i and then from there running to my amps. Also i betting some of those people run their rca's and or speaker wire next to their power wire which can cause some sort of noise interference. Also it helps to create a loop in the battery system, which is why i ran my negative up to the front battery to prevent any unwanted noise. I am currently looking for some tweeters to replace those stock crap lol but for now they will stay. Work bench is first on my list so i can actually start working on my car and have a place to work on it. Stage III - Unity - The Home of the World's Finest Loudspeakers, and World Championship Car Audio Speaker Systems. This is what i am looking at getting. I love the sound they produce.


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

As you can see from the picture there are two runs of 0 guage going to my second battery. My ground runs along the side of the driver side and my power wire runs along the side of the passenger side. These all run into trunk.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

rhodges28 said:


> I have speaker wire running back to my audio control lc6i and then from there running to my amps. Also i betting some of those people run their rca's and or speaker wire next to their power wire which can cause some sort of noise interference. Also it helps to create a loop in the battery system, which is why i ran my negative up to the front battery to prevent any unwanted noise. I am currently looking for some tweeters to replace those stock crap lol but for now they will stay. Work bench is first on my list so i can actually start working on my car and have a place to work on it. Stage III - Unity - The Home of the World's Finest Loudspeakers, and World Championship Car Audio Speaker Systems. This is what i am looking at getting. I love the sound they produce.


The static noise issue we're hearing is not at all related to where we are running our power and signal wires. It is happening to many of us who wouldn't make such a novice mistake. Either the head unit or the PAC AA-GM44 harness/LOC we're all using is creating this electrical interference. I've been debating buying myself the LC6i as well. 

You really need to get away from car audio-specific parts. You are paying a ton just for the name and reputation, which makes them a poor *value* compared to what you could get with home theater parts. 

The frequency response of those components is very jagged, and you'd absolutely need a good parametric equalizer to fix it. That peak they're showing from 4-5Khz will cause a whole world of listening fatigue and you can't effectively tone it down without a PEQ. 

If you're serious about SQ and are on a budget, you need to very heavily think about a full active system based on the miniDSP with the parts I've recommended for other people on this board.


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

Actually am going to buy the minidsp on my next paycheck, for the choice of speakers is serving two purpose, I'm trying to help a local shop who put on shows for us. I am thinking about going to work for him a side project. I want to show the consumer what local shops can do with off the shelf car audio. So if i put in off the shelf stuff maybe will help boost his sales and get more involved in SQ. Now i have a 56 ford that im going to build for sq as well and show truck i will use just said speakers and tweeters which you have suggested to future educate people on SQ builds so i have both views.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

rhodges28 said:


> Actually am going to buy the minidsp on my next paycheck, for the choice of speakers is serving two purpose, I'm trying to help a local shop who put on shows for us. I am thinking about going to work for him a side project. I want to show the consumer what local shops can do with off the shelf car audio. So if i put in off the shelf stuff maybe will help boost his sales and get more involved in SQ. Now i have a 56 ford that im going to build for sq as well and show truck i will use just said speakers and tweeters which you have suggested to future educate people on SQ builds so i have both views.


If you want to help another company with what they're doing, that's up to you entirely. The advantage to using the components I'd recommend is that I can tell you exactly what crossover points you need to use as I've measured the in-cab frequency response and harmonic distortion of the tweeters to know what the ideal points would be. If you don't believe that would help you, then you'll need an RTA setup (measurement microphone like a Dayton MM-6 with a microphone pre-amp) so you can perform your own measurements, and understand what you're looking at. The learning curve on that is a bit steeper and the equipment is only "affordable" if you buy it used. Took me a while to figure it all out. 

If the shop is giving you a discount, then go for it, but keep in mind that at the end of the day, *you *are the one who will be listening to these speakers every day during your commute and other driving.


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## 1990tsi (Apr 29, 2011)

if you're going active with the mini DSP you're better off with the Imagines than the unitys. the main difference being the x-over box. discount or not, you're paying extra for something you won't be using. Great speakers though, you'll be very happy with the HAT drivers. especially active with good power


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

I hope so, i am putting a lot of time into reading and learning all i can to do this build. I am building my work bench this week so i can start taking my current setup out and start re doing it. I keep hoping someone will buy my 15 but no dice, kinda of stuck with it for now. With a lot of hard work i might be able to get that sub to sound wonderful in a sealed box.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

rhodges28 said:


> I hope so, i am putting a lot of time into reading and learning all i can to do this build. I am building my work bench this week so i can start taking my current setup out and start re doing it. I keep hoping someone will buy my 15 but no dice, kinda of stuck with it for now. With a lot of hard work i might be able to get that sub to sound wonderful in a sealed box.


It's not about hard work, but about the sub being suitable for SQ use. If it's simply not designed to be an SQ sub, you won't get any decent sound quality of it. You'll just have to cross it as low as absolutely possible (and reduce your total volume by crossing your front speakers even lower), to use as little range out of it as possible. 

The box does make a huge difference, but that's half the difference. Have you modeled the sub yet so you could at least see how large of a box it will need?


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

No i have not molded the sub yet, i have been looking for a good online program to use. I run Linux and have not found software that will run on linux yet that is good.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

rhodges28 said:


> No i have not molded the sub yet, i have been looking for a good online program to use. I run Linux and have not found software that will run on linux yet that is good.


You won't find many applications that will. It would be much, much easier for you if you just found a computer with Windows on it. The modeling I do (for free by the way - http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-electronics/6206-xtremerevolutions-sub-boxes-baffles.html) applies a cabin gain simulation to the frequency response, so you can get a useful depiction of how the sub will sound in your car. You aren't likely to find anything else out there that does this, let alone on Linux.


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

Now im confused i went here Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator i saw this in that post and used that online calculator, based on this fs as 34.99 and then the qes .975 the calculator told me that subwoofer is better in a sealed box. My work laptop runs windows im going to boot it up and grab that program you mentioned and go through it. That does not seem right. But i will keep reading, i have read everything on your site and now have a better understanding of what I need to do.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

rhodges28 said:


> Now im confused i went here Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator i saw this in that post and used that online calculator, based on this fs as 34.99 and then the qes .975 the calculator told me that subwoofer is better in a sealed box. My work laptop runs windows im going to boot it up and grab that program you mentioned and go through it. That does not seem right. But i will keep reading, i have read everything on your site and now have a better understanding of what I need to do.


You really can't just go off of generic calculators online to tell you what box a sub will work better in. There are very many variables that come into play here. I completely ignore those values when designing subwoofer boxes and instead look at T/S parameters, frequency response plots, and other box variables. After designing hundreds of subwoofer boxes, you get a pretty good idea of what a sub will sound like in a given alignment.


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)




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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)




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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)




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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)




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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

Just a little update on the car. I still have not been able to sell my other sub-woofer and amps so the amps are staying for now, i have built a amp rack to house everything, The focal in the pictures i picked up for around 230 bucks, it retails for 1200 could not pass a deal like that up. I will be making a nice trim panel to cover all the wires in the car. Door speakers are still in tack as is the stock tweeters, i am on a budget so cant swap out till later. The focal will run my mid and highs, the dd c2c will run my mid-bass and that aq 1200.1 will run two eight inch woofer i had just enough space to make a box that is 1 foot high and 1 foot deep and 40 inches wide. The woofers have not been bought or even the brand yet. After many hours of work i am no where near finished with the car, and am not liking the look so far but i have no cash so i'm going to make due with what i got. The mdf was given to me from a friend since i built him his box for his two tens. I will hopefully be ordering the tweeters soon, i am going with vifa tweeters and not sure on the door speakers yet. if i could get a nice sq eight inch sub-woofer from image dynamics that be awesome.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

The only decent 8" I would get from ID is the IDQ V2 8". Good luck finding one. 

There are many more options in that size in the home audio world that blow away what you'll find in car audio brands. All you have to do is ask. I can get you some recommendations if you can get me a budget.


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## rhodges28 (Jun 6, 2011)

My budget is not known if i can sell my dd 2500 for 300 bucks that would be the budget also i will be running this off an aq 1200.1 since i have not been able to sell it, so im going to use it. Yes any suggestion would be much appreciated i have looked on parts express and madisound with no luck on a good eight inch woofer i would like to run two, i miss my bass lol.


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