# Sticky  Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable



## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

Is "loose" another term for "defective"?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Jim, I don't have all the details yet.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Omermd-

Are you getting these notifications from safercar.gov or from GM? Still wondering if I'm going to be getting the power steering one. Haven't seen that yet.


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## Slammed2014Eco (Feb 13, 2014)

**** at this point GM might as well extend the coverage of these cars for 150k/15y at this point everything is going to have an extended service period :disgust (1):


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

The new special coverage is already displaying in my Warranty Center at my.chevrolet.com. Looks like 10 years/120,000 miles.


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## MilTownSHO (Oct 9, 2013)

revjpeterson said:


> The new special coverage is already displaying in my Warranty Center at my.chevrolet.com. Looks like 10 years/120,000 miles.


Same here but I have yet to receive notification on this or the steering one.


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## Justinus (Aug 18, 2014)

Slammed2014Eco said:


> **** at this point GM might as well extend the coverage of these cars for 150k/15y at this point everything is going to have an extended service period


I agree. I'm waiting to see when they come out with one for the in-cabin coolant smell.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Justinus said:


> I agree. I'm waiting to see when they come out with one for the in-cabin coolant smell.


PI-0935 if it's in the cabin only and not under the hood.


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## Justinus (Aug 18, 2014)

obermd said:


> PI-0935 if it's in the cabin only and not under the hood.


Yes, but the service bulletin doesn't get covered outside warranty. I think the cabin coolant smell has been a big enough issue to warrant one of these special coverage cases.

(I've been working with the service manager to get mine fixed despite being out of warranty since I have 2 documented complaints and multiple undocumented complaints about it before my warranty expired. It's been slow, to say the least.)


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## Dvan5693 (Jul 8, 2014)

Just checked my owner center and I have this as well


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## ChevyMgr (Oct 27, 2010)

#14311: Special Coverage Adjustment - Negative Battery Cable Loose - (Dec 3, 2014) 

Subject: 14311 — Special Coverage Adjustment – Negative Battery Cable Loose 







Models: 2011-2015 Chevrolet Cruze    
[HR][/HR]ConditionOn certain 2011–2015 model year Chevrolet Cruze vehicles, the negative battery cable terminal clamp may have an insufficient crimp at the battery negative terminal. Over time, the internal resistance increases and vehicle electrical systems do not receive adequate power. 
With this condition, the following effects are possible: the Radio/HVAC Display may turn off and on; the Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System, Service Stabilitrac and Steering vehicle messages may come on and off; the turn signal sound may not be heard; “Battery Saver Active” and “Service Steering” may display in the Driver Information Center (DIC); and the interior and exterior lighting may flicker. Power steering assist may also be lost, and greater effort may be needed to turn the steering wheel at low speeds or while the vehicle is stopped. 
Special Coverage AdjustmentThis special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 10 years or 120,000 miles (193,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. 
Dealers will replace the battery negative cable, which will now require a bolt to fasten the small regulated voltage cable. The repairs will be made at no charge to the customer. 
For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after December 4, 2014 are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to December 4, 2014 must be submitted to the Service Contract provider. 
Vehicles InvolvedAll involved vehicles are identified by Vehicle Identification Number on the Applicable Warranties section in GM Global Warranty Management system. Dealership service personnel should always check this site to confirm vehicle involvement prior to beginning any required inspections and/or repairs. It is important to routinely use this tool to verify eligibility because not all similar vehicles may be involved regardless of description or option content.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

ChevyMGR-

Thanks for the info on this one. As many of us were thinking it was the cables that were loose, not the construction of the cable. 

Is there a verification test that Chevy is making you do before replacement? Unlike the water pump that you can see leaking, I'd hope the manufacturer would allow effected owners to have this one done, without such signficant problems mentioned above that could arise from a bad battery cable.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Thanks ChevyMgr - I just copy/pasted your post into the thread start so people don't have to dig for it.


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## Terra Nova (Oct 8, 2014)

obermd said:


> Just got notified of another special coverage. I don't have the details yet but it's to resolve the loose Negative Battery Cable some people are experiencing. We have had many members report problems with this cable and its connections. I'll post more information when I receive it.


I am having my negative battery cable replaced due to many problems with the car telling me: no remote detected, parking assist off, traction control off. This has been going on since July 2014. They reprogrammed the BCM but lasted for only 1 month.


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## Green (May 14, 2014)

Terra Nova said:


> I am having my negative battery cable replaced due to many problems with the car telling me: no remote detected, parking assist off, traction control off. This has been going on since July 2014. They reprogrammed the BCM but lasted for only 1 month.


Hopefully that will make things better. The electronics used today can be kind of sensitive to variations in voltage and strange things can happen.


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## Terra Nova (Oct 8, 2014)

obermd said:


> Just got notified of another special coverage. I don't have the details yet but it's to resolve the loose Negative Battery Cable some people are experiencing. We have had many members report problems with this cable and its connections. I'll post more information when I receive it.


My negative cable. I had the cable replaced today. Service Manager said perhaps the copper wires inside of the covering were bad. Don't know how that could be since the problem started 18 months after I bought the car. If I have these problems one more time...I am going to park my car at the dealer until it's resolved.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

Ah, loose, as in "loose connection", not loose post clamp! I wonder how many replaced cables engineering looked at before identifying what the problem was? Still wondering if this is a design flaw or a manufacturing mistake?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Jim Frye said:


> Ah, loose, as in "loose connection", not loose post clamp! I wonder how many replaced cables engineering looked at before identifying what the problem was? Still wondering if this is a design flaw or a manufacturing mistake?


Probably some of both. The new cables "bolt" to the battery terminal. I wonder if the issue wasn't so much with the cable as a connection that wasn't long term mechanically and electrically sound.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

Nice to see it finally corrected, but it's such a low tech item. I meam really, this piece has been largely unchanged for decades, but it was such a widespread issue. It reminds me of the story I heard from someone that works for a Tier1 supplier. Their lug nut studs were sourced from China and they were getting reject rates of over 20% for the splines being undersized so much they would fall out of the backing plates after being pressed in. Pretty low tech item, wheel studs, but the supplier just couldn't/wouldn't maintain the manufacturing specifications.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Just reread the post from ChevyMgr:



> insufficient crimp


What idiot in their right mind would weaken a main power cable with crimp? No wonder these things are failing. This is a cost driven design flaw that will now cost GM more to fix than if they had done it right the first time around. I guess this falls into the "not enough time/money to do it right the first time but plenty of time/money to fix it later."


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## 7becker7 (Apr 2, 2013)

WTF I paid chevy $180 to fix this problem 2 years ago. Driving down the road and boom lost power and that stabili trak info came up on the dash. They said they looked all over my car and finally found one of the cables was loose behind the battery terminal... not under warranty then. but is now. thanks


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

7becker7 said:


> WTF I paid chevy $180 to fix this problem 2 years ago. Driving down the road and boom lost power and that stabili trak info came up on the dash. They said they looked all over my car and finally found one of the cables was loose behind the battery terminal... not under warranty then. but is now. thanks


I'd take it back with the receipt/workorder. I'm pretty sure GM will refund the repair cost and replace the cable under this Special Coverage number.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

obermd said:


> Just reread the post from ChevyMgr:
> 
> 
> 
> What idiot in their right mind would weaken a main power cable with crimp? No wonder these things are failing. This is a cost driven design flaw that will now cost GM more to fix than if they had done it right the first time around. I guess this falls into the "not enough time/money to do it right the first time but plenty of time/money to fix it later."


That's what happens when the folks with the green eye shades do the design and engineering! 

Added Comments: Curiosity got to me, so I went out to the garage to see what the battery cables look like on our cars. 

Both cable attachments on our 12 year old P5 are crimped to the cables. Still tight and no problems with them in over 92K miles. This car had 100% Japanese content when we purchased it new, so I'm guessing the QC was much better and the electrical loads are far less in number and demand. 

The battery attachments on the 2 year old Civic are different. The positive cable is bolted to the post clamp. The negative cables have molded on plugs with plastic locking sleeves around them to attach to the negative fixture that clamps to the battery post. No crimping here.


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## Terra Nova (Oct 8, 2014)

obermd said:


> Just got notified of another special coverage. I don't have the details yet but it's to resolve the loose Negative Battery Cable some people are experiencing. We have had many members report problems with this cable and its connections. I'll post more information when I receive it.


This notice originally was issued in May 2014. Reissued in December 3, 2014.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Terra Nova said:


> This notice originally was issued in May 2014. Reissued in December 3, 2014.


The reissue extended the warranty on the negative battery cable.


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## Justinus (Aug 18, 2014)

I wonder how they are supposed to diagnose bad battery cables on cars that haven't had a serious power loss issue?

I was fooling around with mine and the cable has 28 ohms of resistance from end to end. Seems a mite high when it should be below 5 ohms.


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## CapitalTruck (Jun 12, 2012)

If anybody is interested, just buy part# 95281536 and install it yourself. I'm doing this to make sure I don't get a problem. It's like a 25 dollar cable. So much easier than waiting for a fault to occur, scheduling service, etc. If it were an expensive part it would be one thing, but this 25 dollar cable, not worth the hassle.


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## fj5gtx (Sep 1, 2014)

Anyone have a picture so we can see what if any difference is between the original and replacement cable?


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

I wonder if anyone has tried soldering the crimped connections? Granted, it would take a large iron or gun, but might be temporary fix until you could get it in for the warranty coverage.


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## CapitalTruck (Jun 12, 2012)

From the outside they look exactly the same, different part number though. The crimps on both the new and replacement are shrink wrapped. By the way its really beginning to suck to try to type on this forum.


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## jasondcruze (Nov 12, 2014)

Went to the dealer this morning with a copy of the warranty extension i printed from the first page of this thread. Dealer is ordering the cable and will install free when i come back home from holiday stuff. In the mean time i had them get after the crimp connection with a pair of vice grips and inspect all ground connections for tightness. Lets see if i can make it till the 5th before i have another issue..


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

This is the negative cable from the battery to the front Frame gounding spot right? What makes this GM cable so special, that it couldn't be replaced in an emergency with $5-$10 negative battery cable that you can buy at your local farm supply or even warmart? Or cut the end off the factory cable, and use an aftermarket end connection at the battery.

Am I understanding the cable that they are replacing correctly? It doesn't even run all the way down to the starter like old cars did. It runs to the main ground connection that is part of the body assembly. 

I'm not happy about all these recalls and issues with a newer car either, but at least GM acknoldged an issue, and the fix appears to be pretty easy, and won't leave you stranded. Worst case there's a walmart nearly everywhere that should have a cable that would work for this in an emergency.

I spent 12 years driving Oldsmobile Intrigues with dimming headlights, that GM called an overload demand due to the smog pump running. Sure the smog pump triggered the flickering, but it didn't go away, and it was something in the alternator, and the alternator on the 3.5L LX5 shortstar is a lot of work for removal. 

While I'm not thrilled with all these issues occuring lately, at least we're being made aware of them, and with the knowledge of the issue, any shop anywhere could address this issue, even if it was a temporary solution.


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## cruze2011white (Feb 2, 2011)

I use to have the same problem and if you are using internet explorer put the site in to compatibility mode under tools and the typing will work like normal.


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## jasondcruze (Nov 12, 2014)

The connector has a spot for a smaller commector to bolt to it.my phone isnt allowing me to upload a picture


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## Tustin1 (May 12, 2013)

Driving last night and I start to hear a chime. Any and every "Service _______" message cycles through the DIC and I lose power. Pull over and turn the key, chimes, service messages and nothing... I had just read the beginning of this thread the other day, so I open my hood in the dark and check the battery cables. Negative is tight and won't budge, positive is under that plastic cover so I just grab the cover and move it slightly and hear a 'click, click, click'. Get back into car and 'theft attempt detected' is on the DIC. Turn the key and it starts but "Service theft detection system" comes on and the theft lock lights up. Could this be related to this issue?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Tustin1 said:


> Driving last night and I start to hear a chime. Any and every "Service _______" message cycles through the DIC and I lose power. Pull over and turn the key, chimes, service messages and nothing... I had just read the beginning of this thread the other day, so I open my hood in the dark and check the battery cables. Negative is tight and won't budge, positive is under that plastic cover so I just grab the cover and move it slightly and hear a 'click, click, click'. Get back into car and 'theft attempt detected' is on the DIC. Turn the key and it starts but "Service theft detection system" comes on and the theft lock lights up. Could this be related to this issue?


Possibly. It could also be a bad battery or faulty alternator.


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## Tustin1 (May 12, 2013)

Stock photo, but this was the problem - not even hand tight...


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'm glad you found the problem.


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## Bshaw9er (Feb 1, 2013)

Can anyone give a little instruction as to how to remove the negative battery cable... I was looking at mine and its wrapped together with another cable after it travels down towards the bottom of the car from the battery. I would try to stick my hands in there and unwrap everything but I can't find any room for these potato hands. Any advice or instruction would be greatly appreciated! 
Tommy


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## CapitalTruck (Jun 12, 2012)

We are talking about the cable that runs from the negative post directly to the front cross member where it's bolted on. That's the cable that gets replaced. Are you sure you've got the right cable?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

> _Dealers will replace the battery negative cable, which will now require a bolt to fasten the small regulated voltage cable. _


Anyone got pics on what the old and new cable looks like?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

I just received the notice in the mail about "the negative battery cable terminal clamp may have an insufficient crimp at the battery" which may cause a host of electrical issues as most of us are already aware. I guess I thought that this was an issue with the early model Cruze. Apparently they did not learn from their mistake? Some of the potential failures include loosing power steering, ABS and Stabilitrac. 

I cannot for the life of me figure out how this is not a full blown recall level issue? 
It is eerily similar to the ignition switch recall that was so late to be issued. 
The funny thing is they do not want you to take it in to get fixed "unless you believe that your vehicle has the condition as described above."

All that being said it is an easy fix that I could do myself and likely will, but it should be taken care of by GM without waiting for failure.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

hmm, im getting intermittent 'service side detection system' warning...


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

boraz said:


> hmm, im getting intermittent 'service side detection system' warning...


I am not sure how the sensors on the system work but I wonder if the snow and road salt interfere with them?


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

TDCruze said:


> I cannot for the life of me figure out how this is not a full blown recall level issue?
> It is eerily similar to the ignition switch recall that was so late to be issued.


You've answered your own question. It hasn't been ten years yet and no one has died from the problem. I'm sure corporate just views this as a QC issue with the supplier. Also, the complaints at NHTSA haven't hit a critical level, so government will take no action either.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> I thought that this was an issue with the early model Cruze. Apparently they did not learn from their mistake?


IIRC, the notice came out in December. By that time some 2015s were already out the door.





TDCruze said:


> I cannot for the life of me figure out how this is not a full blown recall level issue?
> It is eerily similar to the ignition switch recall that was so late to be issued.


Is it a safety issue? I think a big issue with the ignition switch is that it caused the air bags to be disabled.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> IIRC, the notice came out in December. By that time some 2015s were already out the door.
> Is it a safety issue? I think a big issue with the ignition switch is that it caused the air bags to be disabled.


I do not know how long GM has known of this issue or how wide spread the issue really is? Apparently bad enough for them to send out notice of the issue, but not enough to pay for the recall, yet...

I would argue it is a potential safety issue. If electrical systems that control these safety systems, possibly including air bags and power steering lose power and shut down unexpectedly while driving it is a safety concern. 

This may be a rare problem, but it seems a number of members here have had some kind of electrical issues related to this bad ground. 

I to am curious what the updated cable looks like compared to the original?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

I've seen the replacement.....looks the same as what is being replaced to me.

Even the bolt mentioned already exists on the original.

I am forced to WAG that the crimp section, cable to terminal, has been enhanced in some way.
In asking my dealer, after replacement so far, no customers have returned with a repeat failure of any kind.

Rob


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## svincent (May 15, 2014)

Hi guys,
Here in Canada I have received the recall letter from GM. Since I had instruments power shutdown 3 times in 2014, I recently bought a new negative cable from stealership at 50$ and changed it myself. I hope they will give me my money back now. I just kept the invoice and old cable just in case.
At the time I bought it, the guy from parts dept told me he has never seen this issue. Thanks to this forum I fixed it before having more problems. (sorry for my English)


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

> *the negative battery cable terminal clamp may have an insufficient crimp at the battery negative terminal*


Was wondering what this negative cable issue was all about and never received this bulletin. First surprise with my Cruze was GM finally got away from the side terminal batteries. Like everyone else now?

Maybe the engineers never knew the negative battery terminal is about 40 mils thinner than the positive terminal like it has been since the beginning of time.

First thing I noticed about the negative battery cable terminal is that there was no gap where the battery terminal bolt goes through. Doesn't need much of a gap, 1/32" will do, so removed the bolt, used my Dremmel with a thin metal cutting blade where that gap should be so now a small gap in there. Now the clamp can be tightened. This is a terminal for the positive side of the battery not for the negative side!

Bolt was also crap, so replaced it with a grade 8 1/4" X 20, one long, fit nicely in the flat so doesn't turn when tightening the nut. Nut was okay, but tapped it to that 1/4"-20 thread. Didn't redrill it, got a nice deep thread in the nut. Ha, wanted it to look stock. 

That stud in the negative battery cable makes it special, didn't measure the thickness of this wire but feel like either a 16 or an 18 AWG wire that just goes under the fuse box. Now much of a current handling wire, could have made it a couple of inches longer to that radiator frame stud to save that stud.


Hmmm, since I cured this very obvious to me problem myself, maybe GM should send me a couple of bucks for my efforts. Paper work alone would cost them a small fortune.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Jim Frye said:


> It hasn't been ten years yet and no one has died from the problem.


You guys are being so NEGATIVE...

Sorry, couldn't RESIST...

Zing!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)




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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

You guys'll be in town all week, right?

Rob


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Blue Angel said:


> You guys are being so NEGATIVE...
> 
> Sorry, couldn't RESIST...
> 
> Zing!


Watt???


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## svincent (May 15, 2014)

I went to the dealer yesterday and it seems that I'll receive a payback for my neg cable from GM Canada. The guy asked me why I didn't make it fixed on warranty. I honestly responded that they would not be able to reproduce the problem, and that I found the solution on Internet. He was not smiling at this.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

svincent said:


> I went to the dealer yesterday and it seems that I'll receive a payback for my neg cable from GM Canada. The guy asked me why I didn't make it fixed on warranty. I honestly responded that they would not be able to reproduce the problem, and that I found the solution on Internet. *He was not smiling at this*.


Dealership service people are, in many cases, completely unable to relate to people with mechanical ability. They don't understand why anyone wouldn't want to deal with the service department (?!?).

I avoid dealerships as much as possible and unless a repair costs more than $100 or so I will gladly do it myself instead of getting them to do it, even if it is covered under warranty. The hassle of dropping my car off all day with no appointment, dealing with their shuttle service, combined with the risk of them either not finding the problem or not fixing it properly, multiplied by the risk that they will damage the car or cause other problems... I'd rather not have that stress in my life.

It's much easier to just buy the part I need and fix it on my own time, and on my schedule. Done once, done right.

Not all dealerships are the same... some are really good and have a great staff and excellent technicians. These dealers are hard to find. Mine isn't one of them.


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## svincent (May 15, 2014)

I agree with you 100%. Applies also to winter tire swap in my case. I have two cars, and it takes me only 1 hour to do 8 wheels, on a relax saturday...


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Blue Angel said:


> I avoid dealerships as much as possible and unless a repair costs more than $100 or so I will gladly do it myself instead of getting them to do it, even if it is covered under warranty. The hassle of dropping my car off all day with no appointment, dealing with their shuttle service, combined with the risk of them either not finding the problem or not fixing it properly, multiplied by the risk that they will damage the car or cause other problems... I'd rather not have that stress in my life.
> 
> It's much easier to just buy the part I need and fix it on my own time, and on my schedule. Done once, done right.


Also agree 100%. The dealership service department in this area really sucks. I wish GM would do something to fix this. One of my friends really likes the Cruze, but refuses to buy one because of the bad service at the dealership.


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## eedwards (Mar 20, 2013)

Could this cable also cause problems with keeping the battery charged? I just had to replace the battery in my 2013 Cruze LT because it was sulfated (was just 2000 miles over the 3yr/36K warranty, so dealership said I would have to pay for it....which I did, at Autozone! Got a DuraLast Gold with a 5 yr warranty).
It seems logical that if it develops a bad connection and causes all these DIC messages and problems, that is could also cause a problem with keeping it charged.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

eedwards said:


> Could this cable also cause problems with keeping the battery charged?


Based on the list of known symptoms (Service Systems Messages) I would assume no. Bad batteries are a common problem with most new cars, you most likely had a faulty one.


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## ehuntsch (Dec 16, 2014)

How can we check if our car has this problem before it happens? Check the battery connections?


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## Slammed2014Eco (Feb 13, 2014)

ehuntsch said:


> How can we check if our car has this problem before it happens? Check the battery connections?


Take it to the dealer and have them evaluate it or if you know what you're looking at just try and inspect it the best you can since it's only the crimp on the battery cable, other than that... sit and wait for it to fail pretty much which seems to have happend to a few people already (If you infact have one of the defective crimps obviously).


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

ehuntsch said:


> How can we check if our car has this problem before it happens? Check the battery connections?


NickD is suggesting a visual inspection in this post. I'd like to see confirmation that that's the issue. But he's right in that if there's no gap or you can easily move the clamp, there's a problem.


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

After having many of the same problems I took my Chevy Cruze into local dealership to have a negative battery cable replaced. After doing so all of the problem still exist!!! They now say that they ran a voltage power drop test and everything past. Now they want to charge me $400 to change the longer of the two positive cables (I changed the shorter of the two on my own as well as a fried battery"). I don't see how changing the positive cable will have any impact if it has passed the power test. Any ideas? Thanks


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

I've been wondering what effect these bad negative cables could be having on the electronics and control modules? low voltage, circuits dropping in and out, voltage spikes when they reconnect, etc. I'm not an electronics guru and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I'm in the dark on this one.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Badcruze said:


> After having many of the same problems I took my Chevy Cruze into local dealership to have a negative battery cable replaced. After doing so all of the problem still exist!!! They now say that they ran a voltage power drop test and everything past. Now they want to charge me $400 to change the longer of the two positive cables (I changed the shorter of the two on my own as well as a fried battery"). I don't see how changing the positive cable will have any impact if it has passed the power test. Any ideas? Thanks


Begs the question: Did they follow the entire proceedure the bulletin calls for, IE: Verify the three ground terminals on the left shock tower are correctly torqued, verify the two ground terminals on the left side of the core support are correctly torqued, verify the body to engine ground cable is correctly torqued?

Everything I just wrote down is clearly written in the update......I'm thinking your dealer stuck a new cable on it and kinda, uh, forgot the rest.

Just sayin,
Rob


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

You are right. Yesterday I did ask service writer if mechanics did check all the ground contacts, his response I'm not sure some are hard to get to. Spent the whole morning on the phone with GM corporate trying to get this resolved without them getting in my pocket. I'll let you know what happens, thanks for the responses.


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

Where can I get a copy of the entire bulletin? On the letter I received it didn't have any of the specs you mention. Thanks again


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Badcruze said:


> After having many of the same problems I took my Chevy Cruze into local dealership to have a negative battery cable replaced. After doing so all of the problem still exist!!! They now say that they ran a voltage power drop test and everything past. Now they want to charge me $400 to change the longer of the two positive cables (I changed the shorter of the two on my own as well as a fried battery"). I don't see how changing the positive cable will have any impact if it has passed the power test. Any ideas? Thanks


Check and clean the ground points on the frame. This was a problem with some 2011 and 2012 Cruzen.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Badcruze said:


> Where can I get a copy of the entire bulletin? On the letter I received it didn't have any of the specs you mention. Thanks again


This is the printout the dealer gets from a Dealerworld inquiry......they should have printed it and attached to the repair order to get paid the warranty time....I am stunned at the continual times we (forum posters) seem to be training dealers......good grief!

I only read and remember......alshiemers (SP?) still hasn't kicked in yet......If your dealer would actually enter the customer concern, IE, Radio shuts off, abs warning/stabilitrak warning lights flash, loss of power steering.....the entire proceedure will come up.

If your dealer is really lame, write back and I can get a document number for them......that would be real sad that a consumer has to provide service information to a dealer though.

Rob


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

What I find to be really sad is that this sort of thing has been going on since I became a member here. I bet if one were to really look, they'd find someone reporting this sort dealer service every week. I know I'm probably tilting at windmills on this, since nothing has been done by Chevy or GM after all these years. It's a big organization and nothing gets done quickly, but years?! (Falls off soapbox).


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Jim Frye said:


> It's a big organization and nothing gets done quickly, but years?! (Falls off soapbox).


I have no idea, but the problem could be turnover. By the time someone figures out how to do a good job they've either been canned for bad numbers or they've figured out this sucks and moved on. That's certainly one way it can go on for years.


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

So, it turns out my dealer is pretty lame! After talking with GM corporate yesterday morning I got a call from the service supervisor at the dealership. After I asked he said it's not possible for the resistance in the defective cable to cause any other component damage (ecm, circuits, voltage spike, etc...). He then said he will have his guys continue to try to resolve the problem and I would here back by the end of the day....After not hearing from them all day I called at 5:00 and talked to my service writer...He said they have been waiting to hear from me regarding the 10% off they offered me to change the $400 dollar positive cable (never heard such a thing from them). I then asked if they followed the bulletin specs referring to the ground contact locations, torque and cleaning that Jim Frye mentioned. He then went on to say he just printed the bulletin and there is no mention of any of that and GM is paying them to change the neg cable ONLY and nothing else. After a few minutes on hold he told me that the supervisor had just authorized him to have and ground contacts cleaned and they will pay for it out of their budget. He then went on to tell me that it is not uncommon for voltage spikes in all cars to dim head and dome lights periodically when new instruments are introduced (turning on radios, windows, etc...). Again, my lights don't dim, they flash on and off!! It baffles me that they will do and say anything in order to deny that my problems are related to their defective equipment.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

Wasn't me. That would have been Robby & Obermd.

BTW, Who and where is this dealership?


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

Thanks to all of you! Paradise Chevrolet, Temecula, CA


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Badcruze said:


> After having many of the same problems I took my Chevy Cruze into local dealership to have a negative battery cable replaced. After doing so all of the problem still exist!!! They now say that they ran a voltage power drop test and everything past. Now they want to charge me $400 to change the longer of the two positive cables (I changed the shorter of the two on my own as well as a fried battery"). I don't see how changing the positive cable will have any impact if it has passed the power test. Any ideas? Thanks


Hey there,

Very sorry for this! I can only imagine how frustrating this is, and we would never want this to happen to our Chevrolet Customers. If you need any extra assistance with this, please do not hesitate to reach out to me via private message. 

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

It's happening to me as I write. Just received call from my service writer....they cleaned ground contacts and problems still exist. They want to change the $400 cable next and admit that doing so will probably not fix my problems....but that what gm recommends, they say. I was told again that flickering lights are normal....can you believe that? So, I asked...when was the last time you (service writer) saw a car driving down the road with flashing lights? He hasn't, admitting so. 

So, if you can help in anyway, I would appreciate it. The number one problem is to have them (gm) take off their corporate hat and put on a common sense hat.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Badcruze said:


> The number one problem is to have them (gm) take off their corporate hat and put on a common sense hat.


The problem is you're stuck dealing with a dealership... is there another one you can try out?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Badcruze said:


> So, it turns out my dealer is pretty lame! After talking with GM corporate yesterday morning I got a call from the service supervisor at the dealership. After I asked he said it's not possible for the resistance in the defective cable to cause any other component damage (ecm, circuits, voltage spike, etc...). He then said he will have his guys continue to try to resolve the problem and I would here back by the end of the day....After not hearing from them all day I called at 5:00 and talked to my service writer...He said they have been waiting to hear from me regarding the 10% off they offered me to change the $400 dollar positive cable (never heard such a thing from them). I then asked if they followed the bulletin specs referring to the ground contact locations, torque and cleaning that Jim Frye mentioned. He then went on to say he just printed the bulletin and there is no mention of any of that and GM is paying them to change the neg cable ONLY and nothing else. After a few minutes on hold he told me that the supervisor had just authorized him to have and ground contacts cleaned and they will pay for it out of their budget. He then went on to tell me that it is not uncommon for voltage spikes in all cars to dim head and dome lights periodically when new instruments are introduced (turning on radios, windows, etc...). Again, my lights don't dim, they flash on and off!! It baffles me that they will do and say anything in order to deny that my problems are related to their defective equipment.


I don't know what's in the bulletin. I just know that when I joined here there were several active threads about paint covering the primary ground points on the frame which of course resulted in bad electrical connections. I wonder how the new negative battery cable compares to to Terry's "Big 3" cable enhancement for effectiveness. As for lights dimming, it's been a common problem for at least a decade as high beams and ABS combined draw more power than a 12V battery can supply.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Badcruze said:


> It's happening to me as I write. Just received call from my service writer....they cleaned ground contacts and problems still exist. They want to change the $400 cable next and admit that doing so will probably not fix my problems....but that what gm recommends, they say. I was told again that flickering lights are normal....can you believe that? So, I asked...when was the last time you (service writer) saw a car driving down the road with flashing lights? He hasn't, admitting so.
> 
> So, if you can help in anyway, I would appreciate it. The number one problem is to have them (gm) take off their corporate hat and put on a common sense hat.


The diagnostic tree, in this case, is to first resolve any known shortcomings in the electrical system.
The ground cable and related ground lugs as well as the engine to body ground have (hopefully) been addressed.

Therefore, it is time for a tech to actually think a bit.
Although the positive side 'may' be contributing I'm stuck on the part where the headlamps (I'm assuming low beam only) are turning on and off.

So, for starters, the headlamps are not flickering.....they are losing all current momentarily......we must stop using the term 'flickering'.

If my understanding of your concern is a full 'On and Off' cycle of the headlamps, yet all other electrical functions are not affected, then the positive cable is the LEAST likely cause of failure.

The Cruze low and high beam circuit is protected by a thermal relay.....the high beams also are protected individually by a fuse for the left and right side.

Going on the assumption, again, that this occurs regardless of low or high beam operation, the circuit feeding the thermal relay or the relay itself is suspect.

The bulbs must be stock for testing.....the bulb terminals must show no signs of overheating or corrosion (melted plastic, blackened terminals).....the stock bulb thing is because the cars electrical system is very close to maximum load carrying ability as stock.

Once these variables have been satisfied then replace the thermal relay......it may have become oversensative to load.
When this happens, the relay goes open, headlamps shut off, relay cools and resets, headlamps turn back on.....over and over again.....first open can take five minutes or so.....from then on, every minute or two with about a three to five second cool down interval.

Beyond recommending a different dealership, that you take the time to explain what supposedly has been done to your car already, thats about all I can offer from this distance.

Rob



UPDATE: Read my next post regarding BCM....seems the protection circuit is now integrated.


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## Badcruze (Feb 4, 2015)

Thanks Rob. Of all the possible problems associated in the "special service," which is in the first post of this thread, I also have my interior dome light lose current momentarily when (simultaneously) the headlights lose their current. I also have had the radio lose shut down for about 2 seconds, then regain power for about 10 seconds, then lose power again for another 2 seconds. That has only happened once. As of yet I haven't had any of the other problems. When my lights lose power and regain power it is so fast it almost looks like strobe light. Is that long enough for the relay to cool? As of now the dealer has replaced the ground cable and cleaned the ground points. I am waiting for a call from them this a.m. as the writer drove the car home last night.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Badcruze said:


> Thanks Rob. Of all the possible problems associated in the "special service," which is in the first post of this thread, I also have my interior dome light lose current momentarily when (simultaneously) the headlights lose their current. I also have had the radio lose shut down for about 2 seconds, then regain power for about 10 seconds, then lose power again for another 2 seconds. That has only happened once. As of yet I haven't had any of the other problems. When my lights lose power and regain power it is so fast it almost looks like strobe light. Is that long enough for the relay to cool? As of now the dealer has replaced the ground cable and cleaned the ground points. I am waiting for a call from them this a.m. as the writer drove the car home last night.


I went over to my dealer after posting the relay discussion....so I could provide a location.

Ug.....now, the protection for the circuit is built into the body control module (BCM).....so, put my thoughts on the back shelf for now regarding a simple relay.

That being said, if a positive cable concern, the BCM should be stacking lost communication codes....meaning the circuit feeding it is going open.

Based on the limited info, the first thing that would be tried is the BCM itself but the wiring manual states that in the absence of codes this is the least likely component to fail.
It does state though that every attempt should be made by pulling/shaking wires as well as a visual remove/inspect/re-assemble each connector that is related to the concern in an effort to reproduce the concern before any component replacement.

Since you indicate now that there are interior and exterior lighting issues, the whole process has to be restarted.
This information gives more credibility to a feed side concern and in view of that, there are too many circuits involved for me to make accurate suggestions.

This is going to be one of those head slap, right under the nose type things.....like loose relays or fuses or stud nuts in one of the fuseboxes.

I'll step back and watch for your updates.

Rob


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## BrownHP800 (Feb 2, 2015)

We just bought a 2014 Cruze RS 1 week ago today 24k miles. My wife was just out and said she was sitting at a stop light and the radio went off and service stabilitrak came up. It then went off and everything was back to normal.

It sounds like this may be the issue. This is the only time it has happened. Should I be concerned enough to schedule service with the dealer? I still have factory warranty left. What would I tell them happened? I guess it can not be easily replicated to make it do it again.

Thanks.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

BrownHP800 said:


> We just bought a 2014 Cruze RS 1 week ago today 24k miles. My wife was just out and said she was sitting at a stop light and the radio went off and service stabilitrak came up. It then went off and everything was back to normal.
> 
> It sounds like this may be the issue. This is the only time it has happened. Should I be concerned enough to schedule service with the dealer? I still have factory warranty left. What would I tell them happened? I guess it can not be easily replicated to make it do it again.
> 
> Thanks.


I'd give them a call and have them replace the cable. As far as I know everyone who has had these issues has needed to have the cable replaced.


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## UlyssesSG (Apr 5, 2011)

.
Received the special coverage notice dated January 2015 for my 2014 Cruze in today's mail, February 7th. Coverage is 10 years or 120,000 miles from the vehicle's in service date, whichever occurs first. To date I've experienced multiple instances of *'no turn signal sound'* and *'Battery Saver Active'* has flashed twice on the DIC for no readily apparent reason.

Do I have just cause to take it to the dealership for repair? Not hopeful no matter what because their service department were useless in understanding or repairing my 6T40's flawed behaviour.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

My understanding is that all you need to do is take the letter in (some dealerships are staffed by idiots who don't read the notices GM sends them) and tell them you're having odd electrical issues. These special notices are slightly different from regular warranty work - the dealership doesn't have to duplicate the problem to ensure payment - they just have to report the special coverage number.


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## UlyssesSG (Apr 5, 2011)

obermd said:


> My understanding is that all you need to do is take the letter in (some dealerships are staffed by idiots who don't read the notices GM sends them) and tell them you're having odd electrical issues. These special notices are slightly different from regular warranty work - the dealership doesn't have to duplicate the problem to ensure payment - they just have to report the special coverage number.


obermd,

Thanks for the helpful answer which I will soon employ. You'd make a great wingman or squadron leader and can fly with me anytime.


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## aaronmanderson3 (Mar 9, 2015)

Jim Frye said:


> I've been wondering what effect these bad negative cables could be having on the electronics and control modules? low voltage, circuits dropping in and out, voltage spikes when they reconnect, etc. I'm not an electronics guru and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I'm in the dark on this one.


Everything you speculated is correct. The added resistance in the battery cable will induce a voltage drop in the cable, so instead of getting 14 volts to the electronics, only 12-13 could be supplied (depending on resistance in the cable and current draw). Depending on each electrical system, this _may_ push the supplied voltage below what is required, causing it to drop out. When they reconnect, the current may spike, again causing a larger voltage drop in the cable. Circuits can do weird things when the supply voltage is right on the edge of the operating voltage. Also, if a component needs a bit more current, a similar condition can occur. This all depends on how exactly the car's electrical system is setup (i.e. voltage regulators, bulk capacitors, etc.), but in a generalization, this is what can happen.


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## MnMike (Mar 13, 2015)

Any chance his could cause my SEL to come on and some random codes to throw? I haven't seen them all, but I recall throttle control and a few others that sound serious, but nothing affecting drivability. Haven't experience any radio or light issues. They're keeping my 2012 1LT w/41k on it til tomorrow.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

MnMike said:


> Any chance his could cause my SEL to come on and some random codes to throw? I haven't seen them all, but I recall throttle control and a few others that sound serious, but nothing affecting drivability. Haven't experience any radio or light issues.


If the power is bad, any number of random issues are possible. I don't think there's a definitive answer one way or another, but it's well within the range of "it makes sense".


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## MnMike (Mar 13, 2015)

Mine ended up being the "steering angle sensor" which caused multiple comm issues with other...stuff. (I'm car/electrical illiterate.) So that was a $212 repair with the diagnostics waived. Could be worse, wish it were the battery cables, though.


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## ace2123 (Jan 17, 2015)

Could this cause http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion-forum/121025-dic-issue.html


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

ace2123 said:


> Could this cause http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion-forum/121025-dic-issue.html


Not impossible, but since you only saw the DIC and not other "glitchy" things, and DIC malfunction is not on the list that others have reported, I'm inclined to say that's probably not it.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

aaronmanderson3 said:


> Everything you speculated is correct. The added resistance in the battery cable will induce a voltage drop in the cable, so instead of getting 14 volts to the electronics, only 12-13 could be supplied (depending on resistance in the cable and current draw). Depending on each electrical system, this _may_ push the supplied voltage below what is required, causing it to drop out. When they reconnect, the current may spike, again causing a larger voltage drop in the cable. Circuits can do weird things when the supply voltage is right on the edge of the operating voltage. Also, if a component needs a bit more current, a similar condition can occur. This all depends on how exactly the car's electrical system is setup (i.e. voltage regulators, bulk capacitors, etc.), but in a generalization, this is what can happen.


What really happens is the voltage drop and resulting surge back from the loads upsets the bootup of the various modules, there is a reset IC or circuit in all of them that is designed to reset the processor within the module at power up, with the voltage drop-surge reset is triggered numerous times resulting into the erratic behavior due to the module internal loaded software not completely loading--think of your PC what happens when the power cuts off while it's on


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## Lah82 (Jun 6, 2015)

I just went to the dealership to make an appointment, showed them the special adjustment, and was told that they would look at it when i bring it in but that special adjustments are used when the car won't start. Pulling out of the parking lot I lost power steering, they won't look at it until Wednesday. Will they replace the cable if they can't duplicate the problem?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Lah82 said:


> I just went to the dealership to make an appointment, showed them the special adjustment, and was told that they would look at it when i bring it in but that special adjustments are used when the car won't start. Pulling out of the parking lot I lost power steering, they won't look at it until Wednesday. Will they replace the cable if they can't duplicate the problem?


Private Message our Chevy Customer Care account with your VIN and dealership info. Your dealership doesn't know what they're saying. 

Personally, if I had a Cruze in my shop (I don't own a shop) and it had any sort of electrical problems at this point I would start with the Negative Battery cable swap simply to remove one possible source of the problem. This is troubleshooting 101 - eliminate any possible known sources of the problem before further diagnosis even begins.


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## jr718202 (Jul 21, 2015)

My 2012 Captiva LTZ is experience the following:

-The Radio/HVAC Display turn off and on
-The Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System
-Service Traction Control come on and off
-The turn signal sound may not be heard

It seems to only happen when the outside temperature is 90 degrees and above.

Is this related to this bulletin 14311?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

jr718202 said:


> My 2012 Captiva LTZ is experience the following:
> 
> -The Radio/HVAC Display turn off and on
> -The Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System
> ...


That would be the first place I'd start. Known issue and the repair is likely free. Nothing to lose and everything to gain.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

jr718202 said:


> My 2012 Captiva LTZ is experience the following:
> 
> -The Radio/HVAC Display turn off and on
> -The Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System
> ...


Hi there, 

Very sorry for the unexpected concerns with your Captiva. I would be more than happy to look into this further for you. Please feel free to send a private message along with your VIN and current mileage. I look forward to your response. 

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## retsopmi (Sep 17, 2015)

So i'm going to post this here and hope that I can get some help.

The last two or three days my Cruz 2012 has been rough to start. Normally it kicks right over but the last couple days it's been a noticeable one or two attempts before a fire up. This morning I drove my car to work, had it in just full electric on for a few minutes while I ate, and tried to start it again. this time it just clicked and clicked. Wouldn't turn over, the DIC said battery saver mode turned on, I needed to check the power steering, Traction control and a couple other messages. I came back out during my lunch 4 hours later, popped the hood, messed with the neg cable (it seems snug and didn't move) after reading this thread, and it started right up with minimal issue. 

Does this sound like it could be the cable? It seems like half the people say the cable issue is relating to the connection at the post being loose, and others are saying that the wires coming into the post loop are crimped and bad and should be bolted at the wire side. Which is it?

Any help would be nice.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I've not seen a definitive answer as to what is wrong with the cable. And for the long list of "you may experience" in the bulletin, not one mentions difficulty in starting. Which seems odd since for a typical car that's the activity that puts the most stress on the cable. I suspect the fault might be with the small voltage sensing pigtail - which doesn't play a role in starting, but might play a role in charging and voltage regulation. 

If that battery is factory original, you're due for a new battery. Your symptoms are not at all unusual for a battery on the way out. If you take the car to someone who can run a full load test, you'll have an answer. (Don't settle for some dinky electronic gizmo that just reads the voltage. It has to have a load placed on the battery.)


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## retsopmi (Sep 17, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I've not seen a definitive answer as to what is wrong with the cable. And for the long list of "you may experience" in the bulletin, not one mentions difficulty in starting. Which seems odd since for a typical car that's the activity that puts the most stress on the cable. I suspect the fault might be with the small voltage sensing pigtail - which doesn't play a role in starting, but might play a role in charging and voltage regulation.
> 
> If that battery is factory original, you're due for a new battery. Your symptoms are not at all unusual for a battery on the way out. If you take the car to someone who can run a full load test, you'll have an answer. (Don't settle for some dinky electronic gizmo that just reads the voltage. It has to have a load placed on the battery.)


I would assume it's the stock battery. I've only owned the car just under a year now. It was a fleet car before I owned it. I did just receive a recall card for 14801 about reprogramming the ECM. Think I'll have the battery tested, and set up an apt for the ECM and Cable at the same time.


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## Kaydan5678 (Oct 5, 2015)

Hello, my 2012 cruze just started with the radio cutting off and on then escalated to the service traction control and stabilitrak warnings going on and off randomly. Today while driving the car started pulling a little and losing power and when I come to a stop it would die. After hours of Google searching I see this is an extremely common problem with the cruze and I'm worried because I'm no longer covered under my bumper to bumper warranty and I'm only covered by power train now, will this battery cable recall fix my problems???? If it does not will I have to pay out of pocket to get this fixed? This seems to be a huge issue with the cruze and very common. I'm stressed because I don't have extra money to pay for a large repair bill


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Kaydan5678 said:


> Hello, my 2012 cruze just started with the radio cutting off and on then escalated to the service traction control and stabilitrak warnings going on and off randomly. Today while driving the car started pulling a little and losing power and when I come to a stop it would die. After hours of Google searching I see this is an extremely common problem with the cruze and I'm worried because I'm no longer covered under my bumper to bumper warranty and I'm only covered by power train now, will this battery cable recall fix my problems???? If it does not will I have to pay out of pocket to get this fixed? This seems to be a huge issue with the cruze and very common. I'm stressed because I don't have extra money to pay for a large repair bill


*Anyone wishing to respond to this member on this issue please do so at the following dedicated thread:*

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-service-issues/140538-new-here-all-wrong-reasons.html


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

<Moderator Hat>

We have now had several people multi-post the same or nearly same exact post in multiple threads. When this happens the moderators will delete all but one post, and we may not leave the one that will get the most attention. Choose your thread wisely.

</Moderator Hat>


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## Hambone-IT (Oct 15, 2015)

I just had this replaced after 15 months. They also said my battery is cranking 254 (rated for 600). Would this have caused this issue, since the connection isn't working correctly?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Hambone-IT said:


> I just had this replaced after 15 months. They also said my battery is cranking 254 (rated for 600). Would this have caused this issue, since the connection isn't working correctly?


You also have a bad battery. Are you still under the B2B warranty? If so get your dealership to replace the battery as they have already identified it as bad.


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## Hambone-IT (Oct 15, 2015)

No, I commute to work and am about 10,000 miles over my B2B and GM says since it's over 12 months then it would be due to normal wear and tear.


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## CosmosGoat (Sep 23, 2013)

The last time my car was in the dealer this was suposedly taken care of. Today I got the service power steering and stabilitrac warning lights and message. Has anyone seen this after the cable was replaced? I had no issues prior to the "fix".


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## Hambone-IT (Oct 15, 2015)

So even weirder turn of events I went to Walmart to have my battery replaced with a new one after my dealership wouldn't help with the replacement of it and they say there is nothing wrong. Me not being a true believer that they knew what they were talking about then went to NAPA and he tested it and everything works as it should. Any ideas what would have caused this low reading (254) at the dealership but 606 at Napa? Guy at Napa said it was starting and charging correctly and gave me the print out from the machine. I just want to make sure there is t anything else I need to investigate before I find out the hard way stranded somewhere.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Hambone-IT said:


> So even weirder turn of events I went to Walmart to have my battery replaced with a new one after my dealership wouldn't help with the replacement of it and they say there is nothing wrong. Me not being a true believer that they knew what they were talking about then went to NAPA and he tested it and everything works as it should. Any ideas what would have caused this low reading (254) at the dealership but 606 at Napa? Guy at Napa said it was starting and charging correctly and gave me the print out from the machine. I just want to make sure there is t anything else I need to investigate before I find out the hard way stranded somewhere.


Was the low reading before or after replacing the negative battery cable? I should have asked this in my first reply. If it was before did the dealership then retest after replacement?


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## Hambone-IT (Oct 15, 2015)

The low reading was before the defective cord was replaced, but they never retested just told me I needed a battery. I just didn't want another junk one that would burn out after 14 months. But I just wanted to put it out there in case people were being told to replace their battery along with this faulty connector cable.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Hambone-IT said:


> The low reading was before the defective cord was replaced, but they never retested just told me I needed a battery. I just didn't want another junk one that would burn out after 14 months. But I just wanted to put it out there in case people were being told to replace their battery along with this faulty connector cable.


Depending on how your dealership tested the low reading could have easily been caused by excessive resistance in the test loop. High resistance reduces amperage.


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## canadacruz124 (Jun 1, 2015)

Hi there Cruzeers,

This is exactly the problem I've been having with my 2012 Cruze. I booked a service appointment at my dealership for next Tue, but wanted to know what the source of this special coverage 14311 is, so that I can print it from an official source and bring it with me? I know the dealership should be aware of these, but you never know. 

In lieu of an official source, should I just print the special coverage cited in this thread - would that be good?

Thanks!


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

One tactic you may want to use: tell the service writer your complaint, but don't mention the bulletin. (It's an internal bulletin, not for the public. You may get push back from the writer.)

Print out the first post of this thread and leave it on the passenger seat in a otherwise clean car for the tech to "discover".


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

ChevyGuy said:


> One tactic you may want to use: tell the service writer your complaint, but don't mention the bulletin. (It's an internal bulletin, not for the public. You may get push back from the writer.)
> 
> Print out the first post of this thread and leave it on the passenger seat in a otherwise clean car for the tech to "discover".


This bulletin shows up in your GM owners account if you create one. The details don't show however.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

obermd said:


> This bulletin shows up in your GM owners account if you create one. The details don't show however.


So little shows that it's useless. It only tells me when it expires. No clue as to what it covers. It only says "Please consult your vehicle's Owner Manual or warranty booklet for complete coverage information or call 1-800-222-1020."

If you Google it, you end up in this thread.


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## rudeboybelize (Aug 5, 2012)

Re bringing this thread up because I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze ls 1.8l ... I jumped the gun and got a new negative battery cable when this came out even though after examining the original negative cable to be in excellent condition because I felt the car had been staring funny even with a new battery the idle stumbles etc it of course would fix these issues because the computer could actually get a good reading from sensors.. How ever I'm advising you to check the rubber shield around the cooper wire GM uses if it's loose its improperly crimped once again hard to start .. Supposedly killed a new battery and random idle stumbles the car drove like **** got a new one today no more issues after a 250 mile drive 


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## mzr.disi (Feb 8, 2016)

This "fix" doesn't work anyway. GM has a problem on their hands, knows what it is and is waiting for the costs of legal action to outweigh the cost of a proper repair.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

mzr.disi said:


> This "fix" doesn't work anyway. GM has a problem on their hands, knows what it is and is waiting for the costs of legal action to outweigh the cost of a proper repair.


We've had a lot of members have the battery cable replaced and for the vast majority of them it fixed their weird electrical problems. Please start a thread on what problems you're having after getting the cable replaced - maybe we can assist.

Edit: I just saw and replied to your other post about the voltage readouts you're seeing.


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## desi66 (Feb 9, 2016)

check all the fuses under the hood mine were ALL loose


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## mwyant (Mar 1, 2016)

This was repaired on my 2012 and 30 days later the same issues are occurring... Power flickering off and one, stalls etc.


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## Joker721 (Apr 23, 2011)

My 2011 LTZ has been doing the same thing for about 2 months now. I had the battery replaced along with the positive cable (they found some corrosion on the cable) and mentioned the negative cable TSB but the dealer said they won't fix anything unless they can replicate the delayed start up. Typical GM bs and not owning up to the problem. I want the da** thing fixed since the car is paid for.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Joker721 said:


> and mentioned the negative cable TSB but the dealer said they won't fix anything unless they can replicate the delayed start up. Typical GM bs and not owning up to the problem. I want the da** thing fixed since the car is paid for.


Typical bad dealer. That's not GM's requirement. Find another dealer.


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## Joker721 (Apr 23, 2011)

Yeah I plan on it for sure.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Joker721 said:


> My 2011 LTZ has been doing the same thing for about 2 months now. I had the battery replaced along with the positive cable (they found some corrosion on the cable) and mentioned the negative cable TSB but the dealer said they won't fix anything unless they can replicate the delayed start up. Typical GM bs and not owning up to the problem. I want the da** thing fixed since the car is paid for.


Hello Joker721,

We're very sorry to hear of your unsatisfactory dealership experience. I see that you plan on visiting another certified Chevrolet dealership. We'd be more than glad to provide an extra layer of assistance while the vehicle is being serviced. We're available via private message and only need your VIN, mileage, contact information, and preferred dealership to move forward. 

Hope to hear from you soon,

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Joker721, PM Jasmine and let her know which dealership you're switching to. This way she can alert them that you've been having problems getting this fixed.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

mzr.disi said:


> This "fix" doesn't work anyway. GM has a problem on their hands, knows what it is and is waiting for the costs of legal action to outweigh the cost of a proper repair.


You are right, but properly phrased the neg cable is NOT the "only" problem that can cause the symptoms you've observed. The ONLY time I will see a voltage under 12V now is during cold crank, glow plugs on which upon final diagnoses may turn out to be the battery issue other have spoke about here. On my F350 truck even during cranking with 200amps being drawn by the glow plugs I do not see under 12V, but then I have two group 35 batteries. :eusa_clap::grin:

I've had similar issues with my vehicle since brand new(only 3mi on the clock) and found that all the high current battery cables are potential suspects for this common problem defect. It requires time, patients to go through each connection with a milli-volt meter to track down the connection problems at each joint. Time most stealerships don't spend or want to spend... they are only part re-placers. What I personally found is that ALL battery cable/lug connections had problems, even the shorty cable on the battery positive post. The final fix for me was to replace ALL high current battery cables with #2 awg cable with my own crimps/lugs which are staked, soldered with silver solder and then final covering with heat shrink. Lastly ALL bolt/lug joints were coated with an electrical anti-ox.

Now I never see a voltage during operation lower then 12.6 V under any load condition or vehicle/engine speed, light load/heavy load. yes since this is a so call "Smart" charge system the voltage will vary depending on conditions including temperature in general and other then solely battery state of charge as compared with the older so call "dumb" systems. The important thing to note is that these "smart" systems are VERY sensitive to ohmic contacts which can make them very erratic in operation or otherwise "DUMB" and retarded in operation. This requires competent diagnostic skills which a lot of stealer techs don't have. Note that the Cruze is NOT the only vehicle with this issue, it can be a potential problem with any vehicle make/model independent that employs a "smart" changing system. The truck owners have been observing these issues long before this has gain notoriety on the Cruze board. 

Hope you have better luck with the next dealer.


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## tierra26 (Apr 9, 2016)

I am an owner of a 2013 Chevy Cruze...I went into the dealer for this recall. They fix the problem supposedly, after my car was fix. 2 days after my car would not start. Went back to the dealer and they said it was a negative cable. However, I am still having issues to where I might have to replace the battery. As of today the The Theft Deterrent Light is on and also display in the DIC. This will be my 3rd trip(less than a month) back to the dealer because of this issue. I never had any problems before the recall. This is getting overwhelming!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

tierra26 said:


> I am an owner of a 2013 Chevy Cruze...I went into the dealer for this recall. They fix the problem supposedly, after my car was fix. 2 days after my car would not start. Went back to the dealer and they said it was a negative cable. However, I am still having issues to where I might have to replace the battery. As of today the The Theft Deterrent Light is on and also display in the DIC. This will be my 3rd trip(less than a month) back to the dealer because of this issue. I never had any problems before the recall. This is getting overwhelming!


Since this is not a recall it would be nice to know what symptoms you were having prior to your first trip to the dealership. It is possible that you have a bad battery.


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## tierra26 (Apr 9, 2016)

Prior to my first visit at the dealership, my car seem to be running and working fine. Maybe a little glitch with the lights. Since I came in for the recall for the negative cable and also reprogram the PCM. The car has been doing weird things. Such as loosing power, not starting, or the radio dont work. Most current problem is the DIC displays Theft Deterrent system needs to be service. Reading in the manual states that keys could be damage but they are not, try both keys still acting as if the car will not start.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

tierra26 said:


> Prior to my first visit at the dealership, my car seem to be running and working fine. Maybe a little glitch with the lights. Since I came in for the recall for the negative cable and also reprogram the PCM. The car has been doing weird things. Such as loosing power, not starting, or the radio dont work. Most current problem is the DIC displays Theft Deterrent system needs to be service. Reading in the manual states that keys could be damage but they are not, try both keys still acting as if the car will not start.


I'm not sure what Chevy did to make sure the bad cables where purged from the supply chain. Because it sounds like you got a bad cable. Or else the dealer did a bad job of changing it.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

There is a difference at the battery lug for a bolt on secondary ground wire......so there is a visual difference.

That doesn't mean that a new cable is correctly assembled though.......the majority of the original cables were fine but a larger percentage of failure was noted by Chevrolet....hence the warranty extension.

That being said, there is nothing that says a new cable is always a good cable and since tierra26 is having more concerns since replacement of the cable, it should be exchanged again.

Rob


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

I would quit screwing around with the dealer... just fix it once and for all! Re-stake the battery clamp and the lug at opposite end, drill and solder the crimp area on both ends, clean and put heat shrink over it. No more problems for sure, forever, no more screwing around wasting time at the dealer. Personally I do not have the time to waste with the dealer tech's, fix it yourself or have a friend who can solder do it. And by the way your could have problems with ANY of those crimp on lugs on any of the high current cables.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

theonlypheonix said:


> I would quit screwing around with the dealer... just fix it once and for all! Re-stake the battery clamp and the lug at opposite end, drill and solder the crimp area on both ends, clean and put heat shrink over it.


All well and fine if you have the tools.


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## Joker721 (Apr 23, 2011)

I went to a different dealer and they fixed it no problem. I suppose each dealer can do what they want special warranty wise? Anyway the tech had the negative battery cable changed out in an hour and they said they had quite a few Cruzes come in with that issue. Car has had no startup issues since the change out on Friday.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Joker721 said:


> I went to a different dealer and they fixed it no problem. I suppose each dealer can do what they want special warranty wise? Anyway the tech had the negative battery cable changed out in an hour and they said they had quite a few Cruzes come in with that issue. Car has had no startup issues since the change out on Friday.


Please post the two dealership names - the bad one so our members know not to go there and the good one so our members know to go there.


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## Joker721 (Apr 23, 2011)

Fairway Chevy in Las Vegas fixed it with no issues so stick with them. The other dealer Findlay Chevy has done all my maintenance/warranty issues in the past with no problem, just the negative battery cable fix they wouldn't.


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## gyrfalcon (Dec 27, 2013)

Anyone have pictures of the old and new cables? As well as the entire builtin?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

gyrfalcon said:


> Anyone have pictures of the old and new cables? As well as the entire builtin?[/QUOTE.]
> 
> Just enter 'special coverage 14311' in a search bar and you'll see why we went for the cable as a recommendation......it is printable......or, just go to the first page of this thread.
> 
> ...


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## gyrfalcon (Dec 27, 2013)

Robby said:


> gyrfalcon said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone have pictures of the old and new cables? As well as the entire builtin?[/QUOTE.]
> ...


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## gyrfalcon (Dec 27, 2013)

Found it....


http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM507523/SB-10057574-8899.pdf

You should add this to the front page and get rid of that other junk.


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## akulahawk (Mar 16, 2015)

I have also experienced these symptoms: "_the Radio/HVAC Display may turn off and on; the Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System, Service Stabilitrac and Steering vehicle messages may come on and off"_ and most of the time the only symptom I would have is the on/off problem with the MyLink display. The other day I had the rest of these problems as well as having the instrument panel and warning lights all turn off and on with the DIC showing those same "complaints" as well. I did not see the steering problem. Once the DIC started turning on and off with those messages and all the lights turning on and off, I also noticed that the blower also turned on and off as well. I would imagine that the A/C system also turned on and off at the same time but I have no way to know for certain. 

One thing I did note on several occasions was that the DIC voltage display would show somewhere between about 14.8 and 15.2, occasionally a little higher, around the time that the symptoms occurred. 

I have had this fixed under the special warranty coverage and so far so good. Displayed voltages are now usually between 13.8 and 14.2 and no symptoms so far. 

The primary point of this post is that sometimes you can have symptoms that aren't listed in the bulletin that may actually be related. Also if you start having symptoms, seems to be the MyLink display first, the symptoms won't go away and could get worse. If you have the symptoms get this fix done. If symptoms persist, it's probably either a bad replacement cable or something else is wrong.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

akulahawk said:


> I have also experienced these symptoms: "_the Radio/HVAC Display may turn off and on; the Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System, Service Stabilitrac and Steering vehicle messages may come on and off"_ and most of the time the only symptom I would have is the on/off problem with the MyLink display. The other day I had the rest of these problems as well as having the instrument panel and warning lights all turn off and on with the DIC showing those same "complaints" as well. I did not see the steering problem. Once the DIC started turning on and off with those messages and all the lights turning on and off, I also noticed that the blower also turned on and off as well. I would imagine that the A/C system also turned on and off at the same time but I have no way to know for certain.
> 
> One thing I did note on several occasions was that the DIC voltage display would show somewhere between about 14.8 and 15.2, occasionally a little higher, around the time that the symptoms occurred.
> 
> ...


Yep - we've recommended to a lot of people with weird electrical issues that they get this cable swapped and then start troubleshooting.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

akulahawk said:


> I have also experienced these symptoms: "_the Radio/HVAC Display may turn off and on; the Antilock Brake System, Service Traction System, Service Stabilitrac and Steering vehicle messages may come on and off"_ and most of the time the only symptom I would have is the on/off problem with the MyLink display. The other day I had the rest of these problems as well as having the instrument panel and warning lights all turn off and on with the DIC showing those same "complaints" as well. I did not see the steering problem. Once the DIC started turning on and off with those messages and all the lights turning on and off, I also noticed that the blower also turned on and off as well. I would imagine that the A/C system also turned on and off at the same time but I have no way to know for certain.
> 
> One thing I did note on several occasions was that the DIC voltage display would show somewhere between about 14.8 and 15.2, occasionally a little higher, around the time that the symptoms occurred.
> 
> ...


Hello akulahawk,

I'm so glad to hear that your dealership has taken care of this for you! Should you have any future questions or concerns, don't hesitate to reach out.

Chelsea D.
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## 888 (Jan 14, 2014)

Blue Angel said:


> Dealership service people are, in many cases, completely unable to relate to people with mechanical ability.


The service manager at my dealership offered me a job because I used a Sharpie and scotch tape on the coolant reservoir to mark the levels and made sure to always check it cold to monitor how fast it was dropping. That was a bit alarming, seeing as how it was common sense.


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## Jesse Diesel (Apr 4, 2015)

I got a quick scare when my Cruze starting acting up and then wouldn't start. Thanks to this thread I was able to locate the service bulletin and my dealer replaced the cable and bolt. (Also got a car wash out of it).


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## ehalstead (Sep 27, 2016)

Jesse Diesel said:


> I got a quick scare when my Cruze starting acting up and then wouldn't start. Thanks to this thread I was able to locate the service bulletin and my dealer replaced the cable and bolt. (Also got a car wash out of it).


My daughter has a 14 Cruze. She was having the issue of radio flickering off, getting the stabilitrak message and occasionally the car wouldn't start and we would have to jump it off. I printed the negative battery cable PDF and took it to the dealer. They ordered the parts and it is scheduled to be worked on in two days. But in the last couple of days she has had problems getting her car started. One day she got off work and started the car no problem. She shut it off for a few minutes and then went to start it up. Nothing. This morning she went to start it up for work. Nothing. Lights and everything else come on. Tested battery several times and it checks out okay. I am hoping that this battery cable fix will take care of this issue as well. Does anyone know for sure if this non-starting issue is part of this fix? Thanks.


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## spacemule (Dec 7, 2014)

I bought my '13 ltz with 53k miles on it. Since I've had it, I have intermittent electrical issues. The Radio sometimes doesn't work on cold starts. Sometimes the HVAC will not work until shutting down and restarting. Took my Cruze in last year to have the cable fixed. I told them about the service bulletin. I was having some routine maintenance done at the time. When I picked it up, they said they could not duplicate the issue and that they reprogrammed the radio and let them know if it still did it. 

I left annoyed, and have put up with the car for the last year. I like the car, but every time my radio does not work or my A/C shuts off I become instantly annoyed. It's happening with more frequency. When checking the negative cable at the battery, you can feel movement upon wiggling it. So, yesterday, I called again to make an appointment to have it fixed. The service tech initially told me the warranty didn't apply to my model, but then stopped as he looked a few seconds longer. He then said that service bulletin says I should be experiencing other problems, upon which I read to him word for word from the service bulletin that described exactly what I was experiencing. Finally, he asked if I could leave it overnight before my appointment so he could try to replicate it, and said that I would be responsible for all costs if this warranty doesn't apply. 

I'm losing my patience. Here, we have a known service issue that documents the exact issues I am having. Instead of fixing it the first time, they are giving me the run around. I had been considering purchasing a gen 6 camaro, but my desire to do that is waning very quickly. This bullshit of not replicating the problem and ignoring the customer is infuriating. I feel it's a battle to get a damned simple, documented, known, accounted for problem rectified. Instead of fixing my car, it's as if the service tech is trying to come up with something to say to make me go away. This isn't rocket science.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Unfortunately I think the answer is MORE lawsuits or become an engineer and take their jobs! :wacko:


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

spacemule said:


> I bought my '13 ltz with 53k miles on it. Since I've had it, I have intermittent electrical issues. The Radio sometimes doesn't work on cold starts. Sometimes the HVAC will not work until shutting down and restarting. Took my Cruze in last year to have the cable fixed. I told them about the service bulletin. I was having some routine maintenance done at the time. When I picked it up, they said they could not duplicate the issue and that they reprogrammed the radio and let them know if it still did it.
> 
> I left annoyed, and have put up with the car for the last year. I like the car, but every time my radio does not work or my A/C shuts off I become instantly annoyed. It's happening with more frequency. When checking the negative cable at the battery, you can feel movement upon wiggling it. So, yesterday, I called again to make an appointment to have it fixed. The service tech initially told me the warranty didn't apply to my model, but then stopped as he looked a few seconds longer. He then said that service bulletin says I should be experiencing other problems, upon which I read to him word for word from the service bulletin that described exactly what I was experiencing. Finally, he asked if I could leave it overnight before my appointment so he could try to replicate it, and said that I would be responsible for all costs if this warranty doesn't apply.
> 
> I'm losing my patience. Here, we have a known service issue that documents the exact issues I am having. Instead of fixing it the first time, they are giving me the run around. I had been considering purchasing a gen 6 camaro, but my desire to do that is waning very quickly. This bullshit of not replicating the problem and ignoring the customer is infuriating. I feel it's a battle to get a damned simple, documented, known, accounted for problem rectified. Instead of fixing my car, it's as if the service tech is trying to come up with something to say to make me go away. This isn't rocket science.


Dealer is a stroke.

Print the bulletin.......note: it says 'If the customer is experiencing......yada yada'

NO WHERE.....does the special policy indicate the dealer is to waste time trying to duplicate the concern......it says: Replace the cable IF the customer.....

Frankly, I'd take the printout to a different dealer......this one has shown his stripes and really, you don't want to buy another car from them, do you?

Rob


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

theonlypheonix said:


> Unfortunately I think the answer is MORE lawsuits or become an engineer and take their jobs! :wacko:


Why? GM has done their part and given written instructions to every Chevy dealership in the US and Canada regarding this issue. The problem now is dealerships that don't bother to look up or follow the instructions they've been given.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

obermd said:


> Why? GM has done their part and given written instructions to every Chevy dealership in the US and Canada regarding this issue. The problem now is dealerships that don't bother to look up or follow the instructions they've been given.


And after all of these years, very little has changed with the dealer service issue. Here we are, seven years into this model. and still we see the same issues over and over again. I guess it's not a big issue with the average car owner. At least it's not limited to Chevy dealerships.


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## spacemule (Dec 7, 2014)

Appointment was today. After going back and forth with the service rep for a few minutes, I dropped it off. They tested the cable and found high resistance and changed it. Had they done this initially, I would have had no problems. Very disappointing. 

My loaner car was a '17 cruze. I have to say I love the throttle response and power of the newer model. However, the ride was rougher, the steering did not feel as responsive, and the seating position felt funky. There are a lot of things that felt upgraded over my model, but overall I'm more pleased with my current car than the newer one. Aside from the lower power, the ride and handling are better on my car. I'm wondering if there are suspension and steering differences between the lt new model and the ltz old model that I have.


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## LokiSkye (Nov 19, 2016)

I wish I saw this thread! 
My 2012 Cruze kept getting "service stabilitrac", my HVAC would turn on and off ...
My dealership replaced the negative cable/bolt/nut. Special policy 14311. Free of charge.


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## westdraw (Aug 9, 2016)

I am being told I have to pay for diagnostics to see if this is the problem. If this is the problem, the fee is waived. This doesn't seem correct to me?


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## BrandoFisher117 (Mar 14, 2016)

westdraw said:


> I am being told I have to pay for diagnostics to see if this is the problem. If this is the problem, the fee is waived. This doesn't seem correct to me?


No, as Eddy said, "Print the bulletin.......note: it says 'If the customer is experiencing......yada yada'

NO WHERE.....does the special policy indicate the dealer is to waste time trying to duplicate the concern......it says: Replace the cable IF the customer..." 

The cable should be replaced at no cost to you and without them having to replicate.


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## westdraw (Aug 9, 2016)

Appreciate the response, only reason I asked is because I also talked to the GM customer service and they told me the dealer was correct but that didn't sound right.


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## BrandoFisher117 (Mar 14, 2016)

The link below has the bulletin.

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM507523/SB-10057574-8899.pdf


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## aperry1996 (Dec 13, 2016)

Just had ground cable replaced per bulletin and still having issue with lights diming when stopping. Voltage drops about 0.5 volts and comes back. No issue with in the first 5 min of driving car park for awhile (cooled off). Headlights don't have to be on for voltage to drop 0.5 volts. Checked basic connections on + and - connections from battery to connectors.

Please help


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## BrandoFisher117 (Mar 14, 2016)

aperry1996 said:


> Just had ground cable replaced per bulletin and still having issue with lights diming when stopping. Voltage drops about 0.5 volts and comes back. No issue with in the first 5 min of driving car park for awhile (cooled off). Headlights don't have to be on for voltage to drop 0.5 volts. Checked basic connections on + and - connections from battery to connectors.
> 
> Please help


Have you contacted the dealership you got the fix from?


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

aperry1996 said:


> Just had ground cable replaced per bulletin and still having issue with lights diming when stopping. Voltage drops about 0.5 volts and comes back. No issue with in the first 5 min of driving car park for awhile (cooled off). Headlights don't have to be on for voltage to drop 0.5 volts. Checked basic connections on + and - connections from battery to connectors.
> 
> Please help


Hello aperry1996,

We regret to hear about this ongoing lights dimming concern with your Cruze. Have you made your dealership aware that this concern still exists? We would be happy to further assist and reach out to them on your behalf for further clarification. If that is something of interest, please send us a private message at your earliest convenience. 

Chelsea D.
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## jdipert (Nov 27, 2016)

Originally I thought I had the issue with the negative battery cable. I had all the "service" prompts showing up, open/close window, etc. My windshield wipers also turned on and sprayed on their own. Very possessed Cruze! So, I had that battery cable replaced. It seemed to have fixed the issue for about a month. Then...my car would not start. All the same "service" prompts showed up again. My cruze was totally dead. I charged the battery and took it in to the GM shop, and they found nothing wrong. I took it home, and the next day...dead again. This time I had it towed to the shop so they could see how dead it was for themselves. Just got it back today, but they said it was a "short" in the battery and had to replace the whole thing. Luckily it was still covered under the 36 month warranty. This was very hard for them to detect because the battery would only intermittently show the signs of a "short" or bad cell. Hopefully, if anyone else is having this issue; you can figure it out sooner than I did. Three trips to the shop finally did the trick...at least for now...


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## VinceJE (Feb 19, 2015)

Your battery was likely "killed" or "cooked" during the period you were unknowingly running with the bad cable. I have seen charging voltage run 15.1v+ contestant with the bad cable. That will cook the battery (and very likely many other things along the way.) Running over 15v on a "12v" system for extended periods will take YEARS off the electrical components in mere minutes.

This is a good example of how an expensive seemingly innocent part can wreak havoc and cost big money if not properly designed & QC'd. Thanks GM. 

Never again.


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## cruze1953 (Jun 30, 2011)

M&G Engineering SAE PMTA ASE L-1 BS.IN&T Just repaired 2012 cruze, no electric power, broke down in drive. Measured voltage drop from Bat. post, not clamp ,to chassis bolt, not cable, showed 9.6volts, specs. 50MV or less. Jumped from bat post to chassis, everything comes on. Replaced cable, measured 4MV drop, same circuit. Why can't GM techs find this problem using this basic electrical test they ALL should know??????Radio and display would go out before breakedown.


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## cruze1953 (Jun 30, 2011)

This system has over 6 different modes, one charges high to desulfate battery, completely normal, I monitor my charge system with seperate gauge. I have detailed system operation if you are interested. Cruze owner since 2011.


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## cruze1953 (Jun 30, 2011)

I run my own specialty repair shop for 40 years, customer called yesterday with problem. I repaired it right in their driveway. Brought new bat. cable, end and clamp, made custom cable right there!!!!!!


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## cruze1953 (Jun 30, 2011)

I just repaired one yesterday, cut the brass bat. clamp with hacksaw and split open end with wire, crimp was good, wire exposed was good, dark tarnish looking coating between copper wire and silver coating on inside of clamp. Voltage drop was over 9 volts between bat post and chassis ground bolt, specs. 50MV, new cable measures 4MV after repair


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

cruze1953 said:


> I just repaired one yesterday, cut the brass bat. clamp with hacksaw and split open end with wire, crimp was good, wire exposed was good, dark tarnish looking coating between copper wire and silver coating on inside of clamp. Voltage drop was over 9 volts between bat post and chassis ground bolt, specs. 50MV, new cable measures 4MV after repair




Seems like a lot of time and expense to go through just to prove bad cable
? Just drill small hole in terminal and fill with solder to solder terminal to cable. 
I thought everyone was repairing the cables this way. Save time and money on 
buying new cable which you don't even know whether it will eventually fail like 
the original cable. And besides all the high current cables on this car appear to 
have similar problems to a more or less degree.:sad:


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Mine was covered by the dealer and I'm at 50,000 miles with no B2B left.

Cable picture

Why fix it yourself and possibly screw it up and then be denied coverage?


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Does anyone know if the three diy part kit that was being offered is still available?

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/12114-big-3-kits-f-s-order-form.html

and

HOW TO: Installation of the Collins Cables Big 3 Cruze Kit[h=1][/h]


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Can you put in the post you are referencing? 18 pages is a lot to look through to see what your asking about?:blink:


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> Why fix it yourself and possibly screw it up and then be denied coverage?


Are you kidding, just read a few lines up from your posting. Car was taken into dealer and left with new cable and same problem. New cables are just as bad as the old??:dazed002:rooling_anim::dizzy:This is another case of foolishness of penny wise and pound foolish. My time is worth more then wasting it waiting for a dealer to put in another junk cable from China? 

Fix it once with soldering ...no parts needed! If you dont have the talent get a friends help who does!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

theonlypheonix said:


> Are you kidding, just read a few lines up from your posting. Car was taken into dealer and left with new cable and same problem. New cables are just as bad as the old??:dazed002:rooling_anim::dizzy:This is another case of foolishness of penny wise and pound foolish. My time is worth more then wasting it waiting for a dealer to put in another junk cable from China?
> 
> Fix it once with soldering ...no parts needed! If you dont have the talent get a friends help who does!


I made an appointment, did some errands, met up with @spacedout for a nice chat, went to the dealer, handed them my keys, sat in the coffee lounge, cracked out my iPad and posted a few of my daily posts, got up, received my keys and a coupon for a free car wash and headed out to the grocery store across the street to finish the weeks beer shopping. No wasted time at all, new cable in hand err car and if need be it is easy to tighten the ground bolt if needed. If it is still an issue, at least it has 50,000 miles less gunk built up in the cable and I might do your solder fix then.

Why do today what you can put off until tomorrow :th_coolio:


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

theonlypheonix said:


> Car was taken into dealer and left with new cable and same problem. New cables are just as bad as the old??:dazed002:rooling_anim::dizzy:


Could have been old stock sitting around. But that's unusual at this late date.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

theonlypheonix said:


> Are you kidding, just read a few lines up from your posting. Car was taken into dealer and left with new cable and same problem. New cables are just as bad as the old??:dazed002:rooling_anim::dizzy:This is another case of foolishness of penny wise and pound foolish. My time is worth more then wasting it waiting for a dealer to put in another junk cable from China?
> 
> Fix it once with soldering ...no parts needed! If you dont have the talent get a friends help who does!


I've not had any electrical issues in the 100K or so miles since I've had the new cable. It could be a dealership that does shoddy work.


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## Dieselfever (Feb 23, 2017)

Well, a couple of weeks ago my wife calls me all alarmed and scared on her drive home from work. She said that momentarily the power steering and the dash lights stopped working and that she got a check steering and stability control message. She said everything was working now and what should she do. I told her to proceed home with caution and to call if it happened again. 

I typed in the trouble symptoms and it brought me to this thread about the negative battery cable TSB. Sure enough the TSB listed every symptom she had just described and gave the replacement part numbers. When she got home I checked for codes but there were none. I did verify it had the old part number for the loose cable.

Now, I know the dealers are supposed to fix this for free, but I surmised that taking it to the dealer was going to turn into an all day hassle of "Sir, there are no codes and we cannot duplicate". Compounded with "Sir, what happened to your DPF and your DEF tank?". So, for $20.00 I ordered the new correct cable and required bolt and replaced it myself. Took less than 10 minutes and I just finished the test drive. One thing I noticed immediately. The battery voltage on the DIC has always indicated in between 12.5 and sometimes as high as 13 volts. I am used to indicated voltage on a healthy battery and alternator to be at least 14.5v. Well, after replacing the cable the DIC is now showing 14.5v. Clearly, the old cable was defective. Recommend everyone check their cable. If it is the old part number, have it changed to the new.


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## Juanton (Sep 26, 2016)

So just came back from the dealer yesterday and now my car doesn't start. had the water hose and inlet replaced. Think now it is this issue as my battery was replaced 1 year ago. Would i void the warranty if i just do it myself cause its cheaper now to DIY than to get a tow to the dealer.


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## sgjii (Aug 29, 2012)

Watch your voltage reading for a day or two in the instrument cluster. If you experience fluctuations, it is likely the cable. It was very evident to me that the voltage was not stable, even though it did not swing wildly, it would just creep up and down.

I was experiencing symptoms with my radar detector acting strange by restarting or falsing in strange ways. Escort told me it was likely due to low or unstable voltage. That was the first indication that I had a voltage issue. The next day the radio blanked and restarted. Read the posts about the negative battery cable issues.

I set my instrument cluster display to voltage and watched over the next two days as my voltage would vary anywhere from 11.9V to 15V. Finally got to the dealer, they replaced the negative battery cable and it has been a rock solid 14.4V since.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

sgjii said:


> Watch your voltage reading for a day or two in the instrument cluster. If you experience fluctuations, it is likely the cable. It was very evident to me that the voltage was not stable, even though it did not swing wildly, it would just creep up and down.
> 
> I was experiencing symptoms with my radar detector acting strange by restarting or falsing in strange ways. Escort told me it was likely due to low or unstable voltage. That was the first indication that I had a voltage issue. The next day the radio blanked and restarted. Read the posts about the negative battery cable issues.
> 
> I set my instrument cluster display to voltage and watched over the next two days as my voltage would vary anywhere from 11.9V to 15V. Finally got to the dealer, they replaced the negative battery cable and it has been a rock solid 14.4V since.


12.4v to 15v is actually normal for the Cruze. 11.9v is low however. The Cruze uses a variable output alternator for fuel efficiency.


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## sgjii (Aug 29, 2012)

obermd said:


> 12.4v to 15v is actually normal for the Cruze. 11.9v is low however. The Cruze uses a variable output alternator for fuel efficiency.


Now I am very curious. I will have to leave the voltage display up for a few more days to watch.

After I picked up at the dealer, I drove home from work, ran errands, etc. I drove apx. 75miles in varying conditions and every time I looked it was 14.4V and my peripheral vision didn't catch a change. The two days prior it would creep up or down, even on the freeway with cruise control set and what I would consider constant parameters. It would creep just .1V at a time, slowly, with seconds to minutes between changes.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

sgjii said:


> Now I am very curious. I will have to leave the voltage display up for a few more days to watch.
> 
> After I picked up at the dealer, I drove home from work, ran errands, etc. I drove apx. 75miles in varying conditions and every time I looked it was 14.4V and my peripheral vision didn't catch a change. The two days prior it would creep up or down, even on the freeway with cruise control set and what I would consider constant parameters. It would creep just .1V at a time, slowly, with seconds to minutes between changes.


It shouldn't creep like that.


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## Nhawk96 (Aug 21, 2017)

Would the hazard lights staying on and won't turn off. Go into this?


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Nhawk96 said:


> Would the hazard lights staying on and won't turn off. Go into this?


Gen 1 Cruze owners have reported numerous "weird" things related to the negative battery cable issue under Special Coverage 14311. It may not turn out to fix your issue but it's certainly the best place to start.

Check your negative cable, there should be a white label on it with a mfg date. If it's close to the year your car was made, then it hasn't been replaced yet. 

If it has been replaced or you replace it and no change, look at the battery. If it's the original battery, might be time to replace after 5 years. Many original batteries failed or caused electrical anomalies after only 3 years.

Good luck and keep us posted.


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## GregoryD (Aug 11, 2013)

ok for the record it was, loose and that would cause a problem. However, the cable was defective too. Cheap ****. And that also caused a problem.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

You can get the negative battery cable on Amazon for about $20 with free one day prime shipping. With the special coverage, you'll have to drive to the dealer and probably leave it with them for a day.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> You can get the negative battery cable on Amazon for about $20 with free one day prime shipping. With the special coverage, you'll have to drive to the dealer and probably leave it with them for a day.



I made an appointment and they changed mine in less than an hour.


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## RedEco (Jul 25, 2016)

Mine was replaced. Car still drain's battery ever so often


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Blasirl said:


> I made an appointment and they changed mine in less than an hour.


You must have a good dealership. The dealers around here have never done anything for me in less than a day.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Well, the dealer I bought from was one I choose normally not to deal with, so I changed my preferred dealership to a local Chevy one. I also praised them on a local board and after my service. So far so good, although I hear gums flapping about them as well.


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## mcbockalds (Apr 6, 2014)

Just in case replacing the negative battery cable does not solve the problems:

My 2014 Diesel Cruise (45,000 miles) was showing all kinds of service messages and other problems like no turn signals or dome light and others. The dealer installed a new negative battery cable according to the service bulletin #14311 and it did not help at all. 

The problem, which was a bitch to find, turned out to be the Side Detection System. This had gone bad last spring and would have cost about $700 to replace the unit. I told them not to replace it. So now, five months later, the car was really screwing up with all most all the monitored systems showing "service messages." After 4 hours of trying to solve the problem I reminded the service tech. about the side detection system going bad in the spring. He checked that system and it was the problem.

$1200 to fix the system (includes the 4 or more hours of looking for the problem). I asked them if they could unplug or isolate the side detection system and see if that solved the many problems. It did! They simply unplugged and bagged the plug located in the rear bumper on the drivers side. So it cost me $400. Too bad the system wasn't isolated last spring!


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## LiveTrash (May 24, 2015)

When I leave in the morning I have the heat at maximum (electrical heater assist I assume is on) and fan one speed below maximum. When I leave from a stop, about 80% of the time after it seems to switch from gear 1 to 2, the fan speed slows a bit and the headlights visibly dim for about half a second. After that, it does not seem to happen for the rest of the drive. Is this normal due to the increased electrical load on the system or is this possibly a negative battery cable issue? None of the other mentioned indicators of a defective negative battery cable are present.


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## srw101 (Dec 5, 2017)

theonlypheonix said:


> Are you kidding, just read a few lines up from your posting. Car was taken into dealer and left with new cable and same problem. New cables are just as bad as the old??:dazed002:rooling_anim::dizzy:This is another case of foolishness of penny wise and pound foolish. My time is worth more then wasting it waiting for a dealer to put in another junk cable from China?
> 
> Fix it once with soldering ...no parts needed! If you dont have the talent get a friends help who does!



Exactly what spot in the cable was offering high resistance or were there multiple spots because this sounds like something I might do?


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## Cavere (Sep 11, 2011)

Is there any way that the neg cable could cause a coil to go bad? My coil just went the day after having the cable replaced.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

srw101 said:


> Exactly what spot in the cable was offering high resistance or were there multiple spots because this sounds like something I might do?


Where the cable enters the battery lug (terminal) the crimp was inadequate and over time resistance rises within....nothing visible nor repairable.

Rob


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Cavere said:


> Is there any way that the neg cable could cause a coil to go bad? My coil just went the day after having the cable replaced.


No relationship between the two beyond living under the hood.

Rob


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## GaryG (Feb 27, 2018)

My 2015 Cruze LT is experiencing all of the symptoms associated with this issue. Problem is, my dealership says this battery cable has already been replaced and that GM wont cover it. They areholding onto my car to try to duplicate the symptoms, but still havent been ablt to do it. Has anyone had a situation where the new cable was also bad?


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

GaryG said:


> My 2015 Cruze LT is experiencing all of the symptoms associated with this issue. Problem is, my dealership says this battery cable has already been replaced and that GM wont cover it. They areholding onto my car to try to duplicate the symptoms, but still havent been ablt to do it. Has anyone had a situation where the new cable was also bad?


The cable is pretty cheap, just over $20 bucks. Wouldn’t hurt to pop another one in just to know for sure. https://www.gmpartsdirect.co/oem-pa...MI7oiz25fZ2QIVgpF-Ch1VhA6HEAAYAiAAEgLHevD_BwE


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

*‘14 CTD, 85K Miles*

SYMPTOMS: Service Stabilitrak light. Also for about a month now power steering assist failures (below 20 mph, left & right turns) sometimes accompanied by MyLink radio shut down.

Fortunately after reading this thread months ago I already had a new Negative Battery Cable in the trunk. 15 minutes, easy peasy. I’ve put about 750 miles on since the repair, all symptoms gone.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt









So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Rivergoer said:


> SYMPTOMS: Service Stabilitrak light. Also for about a month now power steering assist failures (below 20 mph, left & right turns) sometimes accompanied by MyLink radio shut down.
> 
> Fortunately after reading this thread months ago I already had a new Negative Battery Cable in the trunk. 15 minutes, easy peasy. I’ve put about 750 miles on since the repair, all symptoms gone.
> 
> ...


The required bolt is mentioned in the body of the update and a part# is provided. I think it was (dimensions not listed) a 6mm x 10 and I believe that is the size that comes packaged with motorcycle batteries.

Falls under the 'I'll need that someday so it goes into the junk drawer' that all mechanics suffer from.
Then, the day comes we clean out the drawer, saying to ourselves 'why was I saving that?'
Next day, after the trash is hauled away.......NUTS!....I need that bolt!

Heh heh,

Rob


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

Hi everyone. Came across this issue after Googling my issues. 
Issues started Feb20th. Coming off the expressway, the DIC lights up with Service Stabilitrac, service traction control, and the ABS light went on. Went away within 1-2 minutes. Feb 28th, same thing happened and went away within minutes. 
Finally, on March 9th it occurred, but this time they have stayed on. When I turn the car off, and start again only the ABS is on until I begin to drive, press the brake, and the ABS light turns off. Unfortunately, within 100 ft of driving the service traction, service stabilitrac, and ABS come on. This repeats every time the car is turned off and on. 
I have replaced the negative battery cable w/ one I ordered from Amazon but nothing changed. 
Any ideas? Any help is appreciated


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

geo81mm said:


> Hi everyone. Came across this issue after Googling my issues.
> Issues started Feb20th. Coming off the expressway, the DIC lights up with Â“Service Stabilitrac, service traction control, and the ABS light went on. Went away within 1-2 minutes. Feb 28th, same thing happened and went away within minutes.
> Finally, on March 9th it occurred, but this time they have stayed on. When I turn the car off, and start again only the ABS is on until I begin to drive, press the brake, and the ABS light turns off. Unfortunately, within 100 ft of driving the Â“service traction, service stabilitrac, and ABS come on. This repeats every time the car is turned off and on.
> I have replaced the negative battery cable w/ one I ordered from Amazon but nothing changed.
> Any ideas? Any help is appreciated


How old is your battery?


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

geo81mm said:


> Hi everyone. Came across this issue after Googling my issues.
> Issues started Feb20th. Coming off the expressway, the DIC lights up with Service Stabilitrac, service traction control, and the ABS light went on. Went away within 1-2 minutes. Feb 28th, same thing happened and went away within minutes.
> Finally, on March 9th it occurred, but this time they have stayed on. When I turn the car off, and start again only the ABS is on until I begin to drive, press the brake, and the ABS light turns off. Unfortunately, within 100 ft of driving the service traction, service stabilitrac, and ABS come on. This repeats every time the car is turned off and on.
> I have replaced the negative battery cable w/ one I ordered from Amazon but nothing changed.
> Any ideas? Any help is appreciated


How old is your battery?


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

Battery is only 2 yrs old. Car is 2011 LT.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Well that rules out electrical gremlins, possible bad ABS wheel sensor?


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

Rivergoer said:


> Well that rules out electrical gremlins, possible bad ABS wheel sensor?


The ABS is also causing the traction control and stabilitrac to light up?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

geo81mm said:


> The ABS is also causing the traction control and stabilitrac to light up?


All three functions require functioning abs input......so if a abs sensor is at fault the traction control and stabilitrac are unable to function.

Rob


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Robby said:


> All three functions require functioning abs input......so if a abs sensor is at fault the traction control and stabilitrac are unable to function.
> 
> Rob


Thanks Rob, I had reached the limit of my *extensive* mechanical background LOL.

Good luck @geo81mm keep us posted


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

geo81mm said:


> The ABS is also causing the traction control and stabilitrac to light up?


Your local auto parts store likely will scan your car for free. I know all the big national chains do (AutoZone, Advance, Orielly, etc.)


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

Rivergoer said:


> Robby said:
> 
> 
> > All three functions require functioning abs input......so if a abs sensor is at fault the traction control and stabilitrac are unable to function.
> ...


Im getting there too. I got an appointment on Monday w/ the dealer to get it checked out. Will post once I get in there. Wish me luck.


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

BDCCruze said:


> geo81mm said:
> 
> 
> > The ABS is also causing the traction control and stabilitrac to light up?
> ...


I have gone to two different places. Neither is showing any codes.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

I don't think the code readers at auto part stores have ABS module read capability......likely dealer only.

Rob


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I found the same thing Robby said. Autozone and my own cheap scanner only look at engine codes along with emission codes. I have the same issue too. The ABS light is on and the "swervy" light is on, but the warnings are only for Stabili-Trak and Traction control. Since I tightened all the battery cable connectors and finally added the positive cable for the big three setup, the lights and warnings go away for days and then only popup occasionally. So I am taking it to the dealer next week for other services and will ask them to read the codes. I need to get a new battery as the post is leaking and corroding my positive cable and will do that before having anything repaired though. I should add that I have no issues I can see anyways, driving the car.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

geo81mm said:


> I have gone to two different places. Neither is showing any codes.


Check O'Reilly, they use a higher end Bosch scanner. I know some of the other places only use cheap basic OBDII code readers.


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

Hi guys. So I took a big gulp and brought my baby into the dealer assuming it isthe negative battery cable. They said it is the rear wheel sensor, not the cable. They gave a code of c005-5a. 
Since I could not find some definite info on how to replace it, and did not feel like climbing under he car since it is still cold, I told them to go ahead and replace it. It is gonna cost me $241.


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

I did send me searches online and YouTube, it seems easy enough to replace yourself but Im not sure if Its the right thing I looked up. I told the service guy I want to old part so I can compare w/ the things I find online. Ill keep you guys posted on results.


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

BDCCruze said:


> geo81mm said:
> 
> 
> > I have gone to two different places. Neither is showing any codes.
> ...


I should have listened to you before I brought it into the dealer. I was just too lazy and stupid to go to O Reilly


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

geo81mm said:


> I should have listened to you before I brought it into the dealer. I was just too lazy and stupid to go to O Reilly





geo81mm said:


> Hi guys. So I took a big gulp and brought my baby into the dealer assuming it isthe negative battery cable. They said it is the rear wheel sensor, not the cable. They gave a code of c005-5a.
> Since I could not find some definite info on how to replace it, and did not feel like climbing under he car since it is still cold, I told them to go ahead and replace it. It is gonna cost me $241.


Don't worry about it, $241 is not that bad to have working ABS.

I did all 4 speed sensors/wheel bearings on my old Impala and it was a lot of work and still expensive.

For future reference, a good way to test them is you pull the plug from the sensor and check the ohms rating of the sensor right on the wheel bearing (not the wire harness). Then compare all 4 sensors. If one of them is quite a bit different it means it's bad.


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## geo81mm (Feb 15, 2011)

So 1 1/2 weeks later after the sensor being replaced all is well. Could have cost me $35 if I wasnt lazy, ended up paying $265 after taxes and mandatory EPA fee.


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## goof9 (Jun 3, 2018)

Hey guys, think I'm having issues related to this special coverage. I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze ECO manual transmission with about 65k miles on it. I bought the car used about 3 years ago at 25k miles. 

Today I was about 1.5 hours away from home when I started getting brief, intermittent "Service Power Steering" messages and the associated light. It would come on for maybe 2 seconds, then go off again. Accompanying these messages, the tachometer, speedometer, and engine temperature gauges would all go to zero. As soon as the message went away, the gauges went back to normal. The road I was on started getting more and more windy. I didn't notice any significant changes in the way the car was handling (maybe a very slight mushiness, but it might have been placebo). This intermittent symptom became more and more frequent, until the message was on the entire time. I also got a Service Stabilitrak message. At this point, Service Power Steering was on constantly, and my tachometer, speedometer, and engine temp all were pegged at zero. The digital readout for speed read zero, and the digital readouts for distance remaining and instant fuel economy were (I think) dashes, like ----. It was pretty strange driving along with your cars' indications telling you the engine is off and you are stopped. I decided enough was enough, I didn't want to drive up into the mountains where I had no cellphone service and get stuck, so I stopped, turned the car off, gave it a few minutes, then turned it on and started driving home. I had a brief Service Power Steering one more time, and then no issues the remaining 75 miles home. When I turned my car back on, the battery voltage read 14.x, then slowly came down to 13.2 or so. 

All the local dealers are closed today, so I am going to call in the morning, try to get my car in early this week, and I will report back.

I'm pretty fed up with this car. I have put a lot of money into it in the last few months. Recently had some major engine issues. Also had to have the clutch replaced which, shockingly, took about 3 weeks. The vehicle was JUST returned to me on Thursday after the clutch replacement, and now it's Sunday and I'm going to be calling the dealer first thing tomorrow morning. Definitely going to get this POS car off of my hands as soon as possible.


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## goof9 (Jun 3, 2018)

Well, turns out I might not have this problem. Started my car up this morning and had a check engine light. Fantastic. Checked them after work, u0073 and u0109. I had an appointment to take the vehicle in to the dealer tomorrow morning, but they told me they would charge me the $140 diagnostic fee if the problem was NOT the $14311 warranty issue. Not thrilled about taking this vehicle to the shop for the seemingly 3rd totally unrelated problem in two months and being charged more money. Almost up to the value of the kbb value of the vehicle spent on repairs in the last two months already.


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## Chevy_Country (Oct 16, 2015)

Anyone experience misfiring with this issue?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## AWR07 (Oct 23, 2018)

I bought a used 2013 from a local dealership a month back. I started experiencing the radio off/on, no sound when signaling and service steering messages yesterday. I googled the symptoms and found this site and printed a copy of the bulletin. I called the dealership today and they are giving me the “we will have to run diagnostics to determine whether or not it is the problem” song and dance. Talked to another dealership and same thing. I think it’s just a cash grab. Where is the logic in ignoring a service bulletin? Why not perform that work and if I still experience similar symptoms then ding me diagnostics costs. I will walk away if they tell me they are going to do anything other than honour the service bulletin before doing anything else. This is why I hate dealing with dealerships.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

AWR07 said:


> I bought a used 2013 from a local dealership a month back. I started experiencing the radio off/on, no sound when signaling and service steering messages yesterday. I googled the symptoms and found this site and printed a copy of the bulletin. I called the dealership today and they are giving me the “we will have to run diagnostics to determine whether or not it is the problem” song and dance. Talked to another dealership and same thing. I think it’s just a cash grab. Where is the logic in ignoring a service bulletin? Why not perform that work and if I still experience similar symptoms then ding me diagnostics costs. I will walk away if they tell me they are going to do anything other than honour the service bulletin before doing anything else. This is why I hate dealing with dealerships.


This has been the general way these independent dealers have conducted their repair business for about a Century. Sure the shop rate was lower back then. Will your Doctor just diagnose stuff for free, only charging if he finds a disease?


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## AWR07 (Oct 23, 2018)

Eddy Cruze said:


> AWR07 said:
> 
> 
> > I bought a used 2013 from a local dealership a month back. I started experiencing the radio off/on, no sound when signaling and service steering messages yesterday. I googled the symptoms and found this site and printed a copy of the bulletin. I called the dealership today and they are giving me the “we will have to run diagnostics to determine whether or not it is the problem” song and dance. Talked to another dealership and same thing. I think it’s just a cash grab. Where is the logic in ignoring a service bulletin? Why not perform that work and if I still experience similar symptoms then ding me diagnostics costs. I will walk away if they tell me they are going to do anything other than honour the service bulletin before doing anything else. This is why I hate dealing with dealerships.
> ...


Hi thanks for your reply. Please understand I have no issues paying for a diagnosis when I take my vehicle in for service. My point is, the symptoms are all pointing to the negative battery cable. Do that work. If I still have problems, okay, let’s run some diagnostics and see what’s found. I should have mentioned they said it would be 2 or 3 hours of diagnostics. Therefore, do the cable first.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

The manufacturer determines warranty policy and proceedure.
The dealer is not allowed, and will not be paid for, part and labor$, without being able to prove a failure.

However, if you print and read the bulletin in its entirety you will note that there is a paragraph indicating the dealer is to replace the cable if the customer experiences these type problems.....there is no mention of trying to duplicate and we all know (as well as Chevrolet) that the odds of the failure occuring during testing are remote.
Do make sure the terminals are clean so you don't embarass yourself, heh heh.

I'll speculate that you are doing this by phone and not face to face and you also are doing the inquirey without the bulletin in your hands.
The service writer (or manager) will not know or remember that this policy does not require a 'Proof of Failure' unless you put the document under their nose.

If you are getting too much pushback from the dealers and just want to fix the bloomin thing, buy a cable from chevy (it's cheap) and exchange it.

Chevy, as a manufacturer, has no problem paying to repair the concern.......in your case, you may have a money hungry dealer.

Rob


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

AWR07 said:


> Hi thanks for your reply. Please understand I have no issues paying for a diagnosis when I take my vehicle in for service. My point is, the symptoms are all pointing to the negative battery cable. Do that work. If I still have problems, okay, let’s run some diagnostics and see what’s found. I should have mentioned they said it would be 2 or 3 hours of diagnostics. Therefore, do the cable first.


If it would be a 2 or 3 hour diagnostic I would share your concern but its a .2 hour job if I remember correctly. I'm not sure I've ever authorized more than 1 Shop hour and of course that cost is absorbed by the dealer when the problem is found, if it is found. Hope it works out, I'd look for a different G.M. repair facility?


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## AWR07 (Oct 23, 2018)

Robby said:


> The manufacturer determines warranty policy and proceedure.
> The dealer is not allowed, and will not be paid for, part and labor$, without being able to prove a failure.
> 
> However, if you print and read the bulletin in its entirety you will note that there is a paragraph indicating the dealer is to replace the cable if the customer experiences these type problems.....there is no mention of trying to duplicate and we all know (as well as Chevrolet) that the odds of the failure occuring during testing are remote.
> ...


Thanks to all. As it happens one was a call to a dealership who had the information readily accessible the other was a dealership I walked into and placed the entire bulletin on the advisors desk and asked if he was familiar with it. He said he’d seen a few and I’d have to sign off on a i hour minimum. Never know what it could be. I’d heard enough. I thanked him and took his card. 

I took it in this morning. To the dealer I bought it from. Said I was booked to get my negative battery cable replaced as per the bulletin and had it with me just in case. It was booked and ready an hour later. Appears that I found a guy who knew what it was all about and I am pleased to report it appears to have solved the issue. 

Again thanks for all of the opinions and advice. Great group.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Congrats and well handled by you and your repairing dealer.

Rob


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## jdjones3109 (Nov 2, 2018)

I recently purchased a 2015 Cruze sedan with 50,000 miles and I experienced the same symptoms described in this post. My VIN wasn't covered under this recall so I simply purchased the cable and bolt online and changed them myself. It only took about 5 minutes and it solved the problem. Apparently, there are more cars affected by this problem than they are willing to acknowledge.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

jdjones3109 said:


> I recently purchased a 2015 Cruze sedan with 50,000 miles and I experienced the same symptoms described in this post. My VIN wasn't covered under this recall so I simply purchased the cable and bolt online and changed them myself. It only took about 5 minutes and it solved the problem. Apparently, there are more cars affected by this problem than they are willing to acknowledge.


Good to know.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## cultx6 (Jan 17, 2019)

check all fuses


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## 89stingray454 (Jan 19, 2017)

My 2014 Cruze diesel (93k miles) just started having some of the electrical issues that are described early in this thread. I have no problem changing the negative battery cable myself. Thank you all for your hard work on figuring this issue out. Could someone provide the part number that I should order? Thanks in advance.
Cheers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

89stingray454 said:


> My 2014 Cruze diesel (93k miles) just started having some of the electrical issues that are described early in this thread. I have no problem changing the negative battery cable myself. Thank you all for your hard work on figuring this issue out. Could someone provide the part number that I should order? Thanks in advance.
> Cheers.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You should still be under warranty for this. However, I replaced mine at my expense because every time the issue happened I couldn't reproduce it at the dealer. The $25 it cost me was cheaper than the fuel to drive back and forth each time I tried to have them look at it.

2014 CTD I bought part #22754271 Runs about $20 online. You'll also need bolt #11561025 to connect the RVC negative cable to the terminal clamp (#3 in step 18 in link). However you could just buy the cable and take it to a local hardware store and find a bolt for 10 cents that would work.

Here is a link that gives a better description of the bulletin and the parts. And for me, I did not have to do any of the modifications listed. I just removed the old cable and replaced the new one using the existing hardware except for the new bolt. Just make sure you don't forget to run the cable through the plastic loop.

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1138/special-...battery-cable-loose-2011-2015-chevrolet-cruze


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## weimerrj (Dec 4, 2011)

If, like me, you have intermittent radio problems when starting - but everything else seems to work normally - this is likely the culprit. At least the RVC connection is. A temporary solution until you install the new cable is to remove the RVC cable, thoroughly clean the parts (eyelet, nut, and battery terminal) with a wire brush, and reinstall, firmly securing the nut. This seems to have corrected that problem. 

I've also been experiencing a lack of dynamic alternator voltage. I believe this same RVC connection is the problem, as the BCM controls that. It seems to work better in the short time I've driven it (it got down to 13.6 volts) but I'll find out for sure Monday.

Also, the bolts required for the BCM on the new cable are M6-1.0 x 10mm flange bolts. About $1 for two at Home Depot.


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## weimerrj (Dec 4, 2011)

One more thing - if you have an instrument cluster backlighting LED that works intermittently, this might fix that problem too. My tach had a "bad" LED that dimmed the area around the "4". I haven't had that problem since replacing the ground cable.


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## RyanneH (Aug 18, 2019)

I think I may be also experiencing some of the same problems as above. While driving on the highway two weeks ago the ABS/Service Stabilitrak lights came on and stayed on through my drive home. A few days later (did not drive the car in between) I took it to the dealer but on the way the ABS/SS lights turned off. They ended up replacing a sensor in my front left passenger wheel, but after I picked the car back up and drove back on the highway the lights came right back on. The following morning, turned my car on, pulled out the driveway and the lights turned off.

For the past week I've driven my car (city driving) and there have been no ABS/SS light so I thought I thought it might be a fluke, but last night I drove on the highway again and those same lights returned. The lights are now turning on and off with more frequency depending in city vs highway driving but the car itself seem so to be driving fine. 

All in all, do you all recommend printing the service bulletin and showing it to the dealer when I go in tomorrow for service? These lights are getting annoying and I just want my car to be safe. Thanks for the help everyone!


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## weimerrj (Dec 4, 2011)

Honestly, I would pull the battery cable, take off the accessory cable nut/bolt, wire brush the cable eyelet and battery cable connectors, and tighten it back up. Takes 15 minutes or so and should solve your problem.


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## RyanneH (Aug 18, 2019)

weimerrj said:


> Honestly, I would pull the battery cable, take off the accessory cable nut/bolt, wire brush the cable eyelet and battery cable connectors, and tighten it back up. Takes 15 minutes or so and should solve your problem.


Thanks so much for the tip! I’m not very car savvy so I’m not sure if I could do it myself, but I’ll definitely look into this. I’ll let you all know what happens in case people have this same problem in the future.


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## auraxr (Nov 29, 2011)

Chevy Customer Care said:


> Hello aperry1996,
> 
> We regret to hear about this ongoing lights dimming concern with your Cruze. Have you made your dealership aware that this concern still exists? We would be happy to further assist and reach out to them on your behalf for further clarification. If that is something of interest, please send us a private message at your earliest convenience.
> 
> ...





Robby said:


> The manufacturer determines warranty policy and proceedure.
> The dealer is not allowed, and will not be paid for, part and labor$, without being able to prove a failure.
> 
> However, if you print and read the bulletin in its entirety you will note that there is a paragraph indicating the dealer is to replace the cable if the customer experiences these type problems.....there is no mention of trying to duplicate and we all know (as well as Chevrolet) that the odds of the failure occuring during testing are remote.
> ...


Want to relate an experience that has really soured my grandson and son-in-law as of yesterday 11-19-2019.
They had been having dash and gauges blackouts as well as radio malfunctions, turn signal ghosts on their 2016 Gen One Eco. All pointing to Negative battery cable defect. Called and tried to get into local Chevy service department for repairs. Service adviser put them off for 5 days indicating that it could not just have a cable replaced would have to be diagnosed first before replacement. Took it in on Monday 18th and supposedly tried to duplicate problem. After two days of "diagnoses" could not find anything or get it to malfunction. Son-in law called service adviser and told them to just put a new cable on it like they requested in the first place. Chevy dealer did so and then turned Cruze back to them along with a bill for $300 saying that it was not covered by Chevy TSB #14311 because it was a '16 and would have to pay for cable, plus their phony diagnosis. My opinion this dealer that between myself and son-in-law we have purchased over 25 new and used cars over the years has really gouged loyal customers. I am telling everyone about this experience. What can we do as far as contacting Chevy Customer Care or have some recourse for this terrible service experience? Read here, reimburse for overcharge. Please advise.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

@auraxr

Unfortunately there's not much you can do. I tried before when I had paid almost $500 for the Side Object Sensor wiring harness issue a few years ago. I called GM directly and filed a complaint. They called me back and said there was nothing they could do about it even though it was a well known issue on these. Fast forward to 2018 and GM gets sued. GM issues a special coverage and that means I am entitled to repayment if I paid for the repair, which I did. I got my $500 back, finally. Point is, even when the customer is right you are often times going to get screwed. Thankfully someone with way more money than I have sued GM over this and forced them to do what is right for the customer.

In my case with the negative cable, the part was only like $15. I put my own on my 14 because I wasn't willing to chance it at the dealer with the BS diagnostic fee.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

The special coverage doesn't cover the '16. If you look at the start of the thread, the program started around Dec 2014. Well before any 2016 was rolling off the line. I'm glad you got it fixed, and while it might be the same part, it wouldn't be covered. I don't know how a bad one got on your car. Perhaps someone changed it and got a 'new old stock' that was bad.


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## Jass nycole (Dec 16, 2019)

I purchased a 2013 Chevy Cruze on 11-30-2018. In October of 2019 my car started displaying these same DIC messages and not starting. I have to jump start my car at least once a week because when I try to start it up it won’t start and it will just display service power steering, reduced power, Service stability track, theft system, etc. I have had my battery tested and my battery was fine. I’m so happy I found this thread. I will be going to the dealership to try and get my car fixed. I just hopes I don’t get the runaround from these dealerships. Is there anyway I can check to see if my Cruze qualifies under special coverage????? 
PLEASE HELP!!


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Go HERE set up an account and enter your VIN. This will provide Special Coverages specific to your vehicle.

Also be sure your battery is load tested by the dealership. Often a battery can test ok for voltage but still be bad.

The neg batt cable & bad battery symptoms are often similar.


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## jbower2010 (Jun 17, 2019)

I defiantly have this, I wonder if my dealer will find it... Looking at you Friendly Chevrolet Dallas


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

jbower2010 said:


> I defiantly have this, I wonder if my dealer will find it... Looking at you Friendly Chevrolet Dallas


Well, you are definitely allowed to be defiant if you want, but I recommend you print out the special coverage .pdf and bring it with you to ensure they definitively find it.

In case you missed it on the first page, here it is again:
TSB #14311


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Updated link for TSB 14311


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Blasirl said:


> Updated link for TSB 14311


Are you not allowed as a SMOD to edit your own previous posts. I find the lack of basic forum privileges to update, correct, and improve many Threads that are a work in progress to be one of the reasons the current Forum owners are seeing a 2000% loss of traffic.


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## sammywells (Feb 5, 2020)

Jim Frye said:


> Ah, loose, as in "loose connection", not loose post clamp! I wonder how many replaced cables engineering looked at before identifying what the problem was? Still wondering if this is a design flaw or a manufacturing mistake?


so bad connections ? any visual way of knowing if it’s bad? 2015 chevy cruze LT


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Eddy Cruze said:


> Are you not allowed as a SMOD to edit your own previous posts. I find the lack of basic forum privileges to update, correct, and improve many Threads that are a work in progress to be one of the reasons the current Forum owners are seeing a 2000% loss of traffic.


I could, but then I'd have to edit the original post which is not mine and I try to do little of that.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

sammywells said:


> so bad connections ? any visual way of knowing if it’s bad? 2015 chevy cruze LT


Welcome Aboard!

No,
If you are having a lot of unexplained electrical issues, stablitrac or traction control lights coming on for no reason, weird radio issues, blinkers acting funny etc, take it to your dealer with this TSB and have them change out the cable. Or buy one and do it yourself. You could do your own resistance check on the cable as well to tell if it needs to be replaced.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> If you are having a lot of unexplained electrical issues, stablitrac or traction control lights coming on for no reason, weird radio issues, blinkers acting funny etc, take it to your dealer with this TSB and have them change out the cable.


Earlier this week, my daughter complained of similar symptoms with her 2012 LS, and sent me a video of the radio display turning off and on.

So, thanks to what I've learned here on the forum, I sent her to the dealer with bulletin # 14311B and told her to show the service write her video. (Also on the bulletin is this #: SB-10057574-8899.)

They took care of it, no charge 

Checking in their records, it appears our 2013 had received the upgraded cable, but somehow it had escaped our 2012.

Doug

.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Service Bulletin - NHTSA SB-10057574-8899


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## TurboDieselCruze2014 (Jan 23, 2020)

Eddy Cruze said:


> This has been the general way these independent dealers have conducted their repair business for about a Century. Sure the shop rate was lower back then. Will your Doctor just diagnose stuff for free, only charging if he finds a disease?


The Chevy dealer in my area used to run diagnostics free as long as you had the service repair performed their. Now they charge you diagnostic to tell you what you may already know. How difficult is it to plug in a computer that’s tells you exactly what is wrong. Mechanics aren’t even mechanics anymore their part monkeys. Who have no real knowledge in troubleshooting unless a computer is giving them a code.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

TurboDieselCruze2014 said:


> The Chevy dealer in my area used to run diagnostics free as long as you had the service repair performed their. Now they charge you diagnostic to tell you what you may already know. How difficult is it to plug in a computer that’s tells you exactly what is wrong. Mechanics aren’t even mechanics anymore their part monkeys. Who have no real knowledge in troubleshooting unless a computer is giving them a code.


Well, considering each code can have a multitude of possible causes, you still need someone with experience diagnosing and they get paid by the hour ...


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## TurboDieselCruze2014 (Jan 23, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Well, considering each code can have a multitude of possible causes, you still need someone with experience diagnosing and they get paid by the hour ...


Considering they go to school for X period of time a knowledgeable mechanic would have the problem solved in no more than a half hour. Why must I pay 140$ an hour for diagnosis that’s more than I make in a day. They want a weeks pay to do something as simple as a fuel tank drain. I don’t care if it took them years to learn how to do the job faster. What matters is I’ve learned my job and how to do it more efficiently I don’t get paid more for doing more in less time. That’s why I avoid dealers at all costs.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

You are forgetting overhead and profit.


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## polarcatman23 (Apr 13, 2020)

Does anyone know of any help on this issue in Australia? Unable to find the cable part anywhere online here other than shipped from the US.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

polarcatman23 said:


> Does anyone know of any help on this issue in Australia? Unable to find the cable part anywhere online here other than shipped from the US.


Dealer will have it.


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## polarcatman23 (Apr 13, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Dealer will have it.


I spoke to them today and was quoted $110 for the part alone :'(. Seems like I'll have to roll the dice with a US import which could take a while with all the flight/import restrictions unless there's a better solution out there.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

polarcatman23 said:


> I spoke to them today and was quoted $110 for the part alone :'(. Seems like I'll have to roll the dice with a US import which could take a while with all the flight/import restrictions unless there's a better solution out there.


The negative battery cable is about $29 here. With shipping it should be less than the quoted price. Are you past the extended warranty?









ACDelco Battery Cable 22754271


Shop for ACDelco Battery Cable 22754271 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.



www.autozone.com


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## polarcatman23 (Apr 13, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> The negative battery cable is about $29 here. With shipping it should be less than the quoted price. Are you past the extended warranty?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


As far as I am aware there is no coverage for extended warranty in Australia. Chevy Cruze is re-badged as a Holden Cruze here. Same car, but unfortunately not the same customer service. I'll probably have to ship it over, I'm just concerned about the shipping time with all the hold ups because of COVID-19.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

polarcatman23 said:


> As far as I am aware there is no coverage for extended warranty in Australia. Chevy Cruze is re-badged as a Holden Cruze here. Same car, but unfortunately not the same customer service. I'll probably have to ship it over, I'm just concerned about the shipping time with all the hold ups because of COVID-19.


Hmmm. Is it a GM dealership you went to or is Holden a separate company?


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## polarcatman23 (Apr 13, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Hmmm. Is it a GM dealership you went to or is Holden a separate company?


Holden is an Australian car manufacturer that turned to importing cars only about 8 years ago. They ARE GM but at the same time they aren't haha. All dealings are with Holden, but they frustratingly don't seem to be the same in a lot of respects. 

Incidentally Holden announced it was closing up shop a couple of months ago and will be no more.


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## grs1961 (Oct 23, 2012)

polarcatman23 said:


> As far as I am aware there is no coverage for extended warranty in Australia. Chevy Cruze is re-badged as a Holden Cruze here. Same car, but unfortunately not the same customer service. I'll probably have to ship it over, I'm just concerned about the shipping time with all the hold ups because of COVID-19.


Important point: The Holden Cruze is *not* a re-badged Chevrolet Cruze, they were built in completely different factories, and although there are many parts in common, there are subtle differences, such as higher headlights, and different wiring looms, and totally different programming in the ECU. That's only a partial list.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

grs1961 said:


> Important point: The Holden Cruze is *not* a re-badged Chevrolet Cruze, they were built in completely different factories, and although there are many parts in common, there are subtle differences, such as higher headlights, and different wiring looms, and totally different programming in the ECU. That's only a partial list.


Hence the reference to a global PLATFORM.


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## polarcatman23 (Apr 13, 2020)

grs1961 said:


> Important point: The Holden Cruze is *not* a re-badged Chevrolet Cruze, they were built in completely different factories, and although there are many parts in common, there are subtle differences, such as higher headlights, and different wiring looms, and totally different programming in the ECU. That's only a partial list.


Fair enough, though the common faults seem to be shared across the two variants.


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## maryreichard (Jun 9, 2020)

Hello-
I have been having issues with my battery not charging and then my car sending random codes. I took it to the dealership and they said it was the negative cable line. They fixed it and it was running fine. A month later it is doing the same thing. My dad and I just wiggled the negative line and it was fine. The dealership is saying modules of the car is the issue. Could the bad negative line be causing the car modules to fail? -Thank you!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

maryreichard said:


> Hello-
> I have been having issues with my battery not charging and then my car sending random codes. I took it to the dealership and they said it was the negative cable line. They fixed it and it was running fine. A month later it is doing the same thing. My dad and I just wiggled the negative line and it was fine. The dealership is saying modules of the car is the issue. Could the bad negative line be causing the car modules to fail? -Thank you!


Welcome Aboard!

Probably not. Post the codes.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## krankins (Jun 18, 2020)

Are you getting these notifications from safercar.gov or from GM? Still wondering if I'm going to be getting the power steering one. Haven't seen that yet


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## Lane Strausbaugh (Nov 1, 2020)

Jim Frye said:


> Is "loose" another term for "defective"?


Not necessarily it is a clamp that loosens over time making it so that there isn’t the same amount of fuel getting to where it needs to be. Where as if it were defective I imagine it wouldn’t work at all.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Lane Strausbaugh said:


> Not necessarily it is a clamp that loosens over time making it so that there isn’t the same amount of fuel getting to where it needs to be. Where as if it were defective I imagine it wouldn’t work at all.


Fuel runs through battery cables?


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## BadBowtie (Apr 18, 2015)

Thebigzeus said:


> Fuel runs through battery cables?


Ummmm......
Electric fuel...?.... (fuel=power)
Freudian slip...! LOL


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## kpmoran1 (Jun 18, 2019)

My 2015 1.4T surprised me by having the exact symptoms described in the 
ww7.oemdtc.com site for the Special Coverage Adjustment: NHTSA 10089945. I then spent 3 hours on the phone to be told MY 2015 doesn't qualify due to the last 8 alpha-numeric characters of my VIN not matching an analog code of Chevrolet's. Therefore, even though my 2015's problem's solution is an obvious match to the Chevy Service Bulletin 14311B, no help from Chevy. These guys kill me!
So, I'll by the negative cable on-line (OEM $20) and get the tools out.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Hope this is your fix. Be sure to post results.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Welcome Aboard!

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## iur (Nov 25, 2021)

I have a 2016 Chevy Cruze.The vent switch does not read that the vent is closed (or open). When I opened the hood, I did not receive a message on the dash that the hood was open. My remote start does not work, which I think is because the computer cannot confirm that the vent is closed. I changed the lock / switch and nothing has changed. I wonder if there is something wrong with the wiring or fuse somewhere. Anyone know more about how this is wired or something else I should take care of?


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

after 10 years with the car this is my only problem I have with it, wasnt sure if it was alternator problem but this might be the reason my car struggles to start sometimes im thinking the wire gets loose and with the vibrations causes it not to make proper connection who knows, in the summer months I will be investigating this further! i wil keep you all posted 100%


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