# Losing Coolant



## KY.JellyRS (Aug 14, 2015)

I have the same issue!! Haven't noticed any coolant dropping out from under the car but shortly have filling the reservoir it's empty again! Would love to find a solution! 


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

Brockster said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> A few days ago after a 10 minute drive I noticed a trail of water after parking. The liquid was being forced out of the coolant reservoir under pressure. When the engine had cooled I opened the reservoir and it was empty.
> 
> ...


Just a thought....keep an eye on your engine oil as well, if level goes up or you notice foam then most likely your head cylinder gasket is the problem.

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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'm not as well versed on the 1.8. I'd say fill it up, take it on a 5 minute drive, and start looking for where it's leaking from. If it's leaving a trail, it shouldn't be hard to find. (Assuming the trail wasn't from the A/C condensate.) Once we know what part of the engine is leaking, we can form a better guess as to what's wrong.


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## Chevy_Country (Oct 16, 2015)

I had the same issue, I started a 2 hour drive to my brother in laws with my wife in the passenger seat and I get a call from my uncle that where I park my car in the driveway there was a puddle of coolant

so I pulled over about halfway and checked, it was sizzling out of a bad o-ring just off the top of the water pumo, so I put a towel over that to catch it from soaking everything underneath it

Park3d at the hotel and check it in the morning and the trail of coolant that I had lost simply couldn't have been from a bad reservoir hose o ring because of the towel

Dealer told me cracked reservoir tank and other ring was the cause of my problem and my extended warrantee picked up the cost of repair



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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Brockster said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> A few days ago after a 10 minute drive I noticed a trail of water after parking. The liquid was being forced out of the coolant reservoir under pressure. When the engine had cooled I opened the reservoir and it was empty.
> 
> ...


Hello Brockster,

We're sorry to hear what happened with your Cruze. I can certainly understand how concerning this would be, especially since it's unexpected. If you decide you'd like to work with a Chevrolet certified dealership, we'd be happy to facilitate the process on your behalf. If this is something of interest, please send us a direct message with your VIN, contact information, mileage, and dealer name.

Thanks!

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Brockster (Sep 18, 2016)

KY.JellyRS said:


> I have the same issue!! Haven't noticed any coolant dropping out from under the car but shortly have filling the reservoir it's empty again! Would love to find a solution!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The NRMA guy tested the fan. By running the car with the AC on the fan should be on. Then he turned off the AC & waited for the temperature to rise. The fan's heat sensor eventually triggered the fan & the temperature gauge was normal when it did.


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## GracieAllen (Mar 31, 2015)

I hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but I'm having a similar problem......

2011 Cruze LT, 90,000 miles. At every oil change I check all the fluids - coolant, power steering, bug juice... Never had any loss of coolant. Last oil change was about a thousand miles ago, so not that long. It's been summer, even here in Minnesota, so we hadn't been using the heat, but the temperature gauge has always acted normal. A couple days ago it got cool enough to need heat and there wasn't any. I checked for a 598 code and there's no error code.

So, I checked the coolant reservoir, and it was LOW - not empty, but low. Removed the cap, lots of noise and bubbling, and we had heat. Ran over and got antifreeze and filled the reservoir. Drove it, filled it again. Heat is working fine, as it has for the last 6 years...

There's NO coolant anywhere under the car. There's NO sign that the water pump, radiator, thermostat, or anything else is leaking. Checked under the engine and there's nothing down there. There's no SMELL of hot coolant anywhere. SO FAR, the oil level hasn't gone up, and I don't see any foam.

If it's not going out on the ground, and it's not going into the oil, and it's not staying in the reservoir, WHERE IS THE COOLANT GOING?


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

GracieAllen said:


> I hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but I'm having a similar problem......
> 
> 2011 Cruze LT, 90,000 miles. At every oil change I check all the fluids - coolant, power steering, bug juice... Never had any loss of coolant. Last oil change was about a thousand miles ago, so not that long. It's been summer, even here in Minnesota, so we hadn't been using the heat, but the temperature gauge has always acted normal. A couple days ago it got cool enough to need heat and there wasn't any. I checked for a 598 code and there's no error code.
> 
> ...


It's evaporating, that's the only way it goes.

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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

GracieAllen said:


> I hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but I'm having a similar problem......
> 
> 2011 Cruze LT, 90,000 miles. At every oil change I check all the fluids - coolant, power steering, bug juice... Never had any loss of coolant. Last oil change was about a thousand miles ago, so not that long. It's been summer, even here in Minnesota, so we hadn't been using the heat, but the temperature gauge has always acted normal. A couple days ago it got cool enough to need heat and there wasn't any. I checked for a 598 code and there's no error code.
> 
> ...


Put a bottle of coolant dye in the system and then use a flashlight to find the leak.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

We know about how much you lost, but not over how many days. A small leak will hard to see. You've got a leak somewhere. You'll need to be vigilant to figure out where.


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## GracieAllen (Mar 31, 2015)

Interesting - I've never heard of coolant dye. I'll have to get some and try it. Unfortunately, since I'd never lost any perceptible amount before, I have no idea how many days it took since I last checked it at the oil change - probably at least 6 weeks ago. 

Either way, a small leak somewhere is a whole lot better than pulling the dipstick and finding foam all over it.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

GracieAllen said:


> Interesting - I've never heard of coolant dye. I'll have to get some and try it. Unfortunately, since I'd never lost any perceptible amount before, I have no idea how many days it took since I last checked it at the oil change - probably at least 6 weeks ago.
> 
> Either way, a small leak somewhere is a whole lot better than pulling the dipstick and finding foam all over it.


I found out when my dealership put it in to track down a coolant leak. It turned out in my case to be a combination of a bad water pump and a bad seal on the tank cap.


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## GracieAllen (Mar 31, 2015)

I've been continuing to drive the Cruze... No leaks, no problems, no NOTHING... Wednesday, I drove it 90 miles, parked it in the driveway, and NO leak - nothing on the ground, nothing on the plastic thing under the engine, nothing.

This morning we drive it about 5 miles, then parked it in the driveway and went off to do other "stuff". Late this afternoon, walked out and the car had peed all over the place.....

This is what it looks like under the car










Raised the hood and now there's antifreeze on the plastic thing under the engine. SO, I removed it to try and figure out WHERE the bunch of liquid was coming from..... Nothing on the front end. Totally dry around the water pump and below. As near as I can tell (PRESUMING the thermostat housing is at the FRONT of the engine) there's NOTHING anywhere around the thermostat or housing...

SO, around to the BACK of things....... Looking up I saw a LITTLE liquid on a (the?) upper radiator hose that's at the back of the engine (driver's side in the US). From above this is the area I was checking









On the left side of the image, there are two hoses, one above the other. On the bottom of the lower one, I BELIEVE there was a small amount of antifreeze. ALSO, there was a little on the metal piece below the engine, approximately below those hoses. BUT, it didn't appear to be anywhere NEAR the amount dumped on the ground.....

SO, I looked for additional bits of antifreeze and found a small amount on the area of the rear of the engine below the housing where those two hoses and the hose from the coolant reservoir all connect (thermostat? What is that thing?)... Anyhow, in the image below, you can see the small amount of liquid in that area.









The coolant reservoir DOESN'T appear to be any lower than it was when I added antifreeze Tuesday, nor does there appear to be a large amount sitting anywhere - the amount I see in the image doesn't seem anywhere near enough to account for the amount on the ground.......

SO, drive it a hundred miles and got NOTHING on the driveway. Drove it 5 today and got a bunch. Drove it 5 again tonight, no drips and there's nothing looking any different...

Is the housing above where the small amount of antifreeze the thermostat (I THOUGHT it was at the front of the engine). If not, what is it, and why would it be leaking? Is this a normal thing on this vehicle or something bizarre?


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

It is your water outlet that is leaking. I would bet my last dollar. The thing is plastic and it is either a cheap part that breaks after a few winters or they don't know how to put it on at the factory. I think a combination and I also think it is the reason they have been having water pump problems but that is only speculation on my part. Tell them to replace the water outlet and if you are within your powertrain warranty it will be covered.


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## joshuab (Apr 16, 2014)

I would have to agree w/ *@jsusanka* this looks like the typical water outlet leak, or it could possibly be the outlet hose leaking right at the clamp. I would get a flash light & idle the car & look to see if you can see if you see it leaking. If you cannot see it leaking while its idling, I would clean the area really well & make sure it not wet on the hose & the outlet area ( *Make sure the engine is cool *) before whipping up any coolant. Then take it for a ride to get the pressure going up & then do your investigation to pin point the location.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

GracieAllen said:


> View attachment 208554
> 
> 
> On the left side of the image, there are two hoses, one above the other.


Water outlet. I'd consider having the car towed. The failure can go from minor to catastrophic without warning. You do NOT want to overheat this engine. The temp gauge (at least in the US) isn't all that helpful. You can't see actual temperature - just the computer's opinion on if the temp is normal or not.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I just had my water pump replaced for doing just this. The water outlet is covered so unless a hose gave away it's a special coverage for the water pump (150,000 miles/10 years).


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## GracieAllen (Mar 31, 2015)

Cool... I'll have to check, but I thought the 2011 Cruze was limited to 3 yrs, 36K. But, if it IS covered by some warranty, I'll have the dealer change it.. 

So, the black housing at the rear of the engine, with a couple hoses going into it, is the WATER OUTLET?

I'll find out about the warrany, if any, tomorrow at the local dealer. BTW: I just checked online and it SAYS it's 5 YRS, 100,000 miles. We're past that since the car was bought in November, 2010. I'm not sure where they're covered for 10 years, or if that's applicable to the US, but I"ll check tomorrow.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

GracieAllen said:


> So, the black housing at the rear of the engine, with a couple hoses going into it, is the WATER OUTLET?


Yes.




GracieAllen said:


> I'll find out about the warrany, if any, tomorrow at the local dealer. BTW: I just checked online and it SAYS it's 5 YRS, 100,000 miles. We're past that since the car was bought in November, 2010. I'm not sure where they're covered for 10 years, or if that's applicable to the US, but I"ll check tomorrow.


In the US, the powertrain is 10 years/100,000 miles.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

GracieAllen said:


> Cool... I'll have to check, but I thought the 2011 Cruze was limited to 3 yrs, 36K. But, if it IS covered by some warranty, I'll have the dealer change it..
> 
> So, the black housing at the rear of the engine, with a couple hoses going into it, is the WATER OUTLET?
> 
> I'll find out about the warrany, if any, tomorrow at the local dealer. BTW: I just checked online and it SAYS it's 5 YRS, 100,000 miles. We're past that since the car was bought in November, 2010. I'm not sure where they're covered for 10 years, or if that's applicable to the US, but I"ll check tomorrow.


The Water Pump on the 2011 Cruze has a special warranty extension to 150,000 miles/10 years. This extension covers the water outlet since that's part of the pump itself.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

obermd said:


> This extension covers the water outlet since that's part of the pump itself.


Uh, what? Unless I'm missing something the pump is on the left side if the where it can be powered by the serpentine belt. I haven't looked, but the water inlet might be part of that. The plastic water outlet is on the other side of the engine not far from the oil cap. It's covered by the power train warranty (but not any of the hoses). It does tend to be a higher failure item, but I haven't seen any extended warranties on that.


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## Brockster (Sep 18, 2016)

Hello, OP here! 


When my wife got home yesterday I went out to the Cruze about 5 minutes later & could see the coolant spraying:
https://youtu.be/4emCX2ObTPs
When playing back I needed to put quality to HD & brightness to full to see the spray. 


Also the coolant was bubbling:
https://youtu.be/d6bQ_igR8I8


After a few more minutes the coolant was gone from the reservoir. I think it had settled back down in the engine:
https://youtu.be/0PgJ8ZCyncM


I don't know my way around a car engine. With the heat & pressure I was very hesitant about sticking my face under the bonnet to get a better look. I did touch the pipe that goes to the fan & it was way too hot to keep touching. 


Two and a half hours later I returned & put 2 litres of water in the reservoir to get it above the fill line. I started the engine & in less than 2 minutes I found were the spray must have been coming from:
https://youtu.be/3PHnKHBr4Rc
Where the hose connection was bubbling it was also dripping underneath. I couldn't get the dripping on video. 


What is this little hose? Should it be leaking if there's some other problem or could that be the cause of the problem?


Thanks again guys.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I just looked at the last video. Pull that hose off (after the engine is cool) and clean the inside of the hose and verify there are no cracks on the coolant tank. If those are good get a new clamp and use it to reassemble. If either the hose is damaged inside or the tank is cracked replace that part and then use a new clamp to reassemble. If you end up replacing the tank take the time to check the lower hose for damage and use a new clamp there as well. Those are not power train items.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Yeah, you've got a problem with the tank/hose. Non-powertrain, but it should be fairly cheap. The bubbling is because the system can't maintain it's pressure.


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## Brockster (Sep 18, 2016)

Update!: Found the problem!

Thanks for your patience!!!


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Brockster said:


> Update!: Found the problem!
> 
> Thanks for your patience!!!


Yep, that'll cause you some problems. Being a 2011, replace that tank (cause failure) and that line as well since that line was updated in 2013 since it also fails from age or inferior parts/design.


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## Brockster (Sep 18, 2016)

Does anybody know where there is instructions or a tutorial for replacing the coolant reservoir? I've never worked on a car before. So far I've found out I need to buy some hose clamp pliers. The tank looks like it is (or was) 2 pieces. Does the top quarter come off?

Thanks again.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The tank is a single piece. You can purchase replacement tanks at RockAuto.com. 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE 1.4L L4 Turbocharged Coolant Recovery Tank | RockAuto

Don't forget the hose and two clamps. Regular pliers should handle the clamps. Since you're replacing the tank also replace the cap. The o-ring on the cap deforms over time and won't hold pressure as well, especially as we head into Winter. Before you begin you'll need to get Dexcool - mix it 50/50 with clean tap water (I'd use boiled/decanted water to avoid any deposits in the water). I believe your owners manual will list how much you need.

After replacing the tank, fill it to the top of the arrow on the rib just below the weld (OEM tank) and then start your engine with the cap off. As the coolant circulates it will lower the tank level - fill to keep it at level. Once the engine reaches operating temperature cap off the coolant tank. Save the rest of your dexcool/water mix because you'll need more for each of the next several tanks of gas as air works it's way out of the system.


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

There is a clip on the bottom left of the tank. Clips the tank on the left to the body seam on the right. It come straight up. Then slide the tank back and then raise the back and come out. You'll see the grove it slides in once removed.

I wouldn't think you should have too much loss. Just hold the lines up after removal. Then squeeze the radiator hoses to bring up any air close to the tank.
If you have air in the system the service manual calls for holding the throttle at 2500 rpm until it circulates or the fan comes on. The tank is vented. And is not airtight until the temp rises.
On leaving the cap off.. idk if I would do that. Shouldn't leak too bad if idling. But at 2500 rpm if the thermostat opens it may. Also The system cannot seal off and have any pressure.


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

Another thing. If your coolant doesn't have a strong mix it will boil easier with the cap off. If it boils you will have problems with the sensors and have a domino affect. Their will be areas on the head and around the cylinder that are hotter than what comes out to the temp sensor. These are the areas that could potentially boil if the system isn't sealed. 

If this had a conventional thermostat and rated at 190 or 200 I wouldn't think anything of it. But at 221 and with this design I would not bring it up to operating temperature without the cap tightened all the way down.


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## Brockster (Sep 18, 2016)

I did it!

I fixed my first ever car problem. Thanks for all the advice that got my brain cranking. 

I bought another reservoir off a wrecker for AU$50. I used multigrips to move the hose clamps. I topped up the coolant & ran the engine with the cap off for about 10 minutes. There was a bit of bubbling every now & then. When the bubbling slowed down and the temperature needle finally started to rise I put the lid on & ran the engine for 20 minutes. The coolant level went up about 4cm & later dropped a couple before staying steady.

I'll check the levels in the morning to make sure there's no problem and my wife will drive to work. 

The reservoir I bought has a plug underneath. I was told it's a level sensor. And I noticed both reservoirs have the words "with level sensor" (or something like that) moulded into them. I'm wondering why my original reservoir didn't have the sensor. Is it a luxury item? I can't see a lead for the sensor.


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## Brockster (Sep 18, 2016)

Because if I can purchase a lead and just plug in the level sensor I will. It would be very handy - especially, given current events.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Congratulations. At the prices for this if I need to replace mine I'll probably do it myself as well.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

How is the thermostat controlled? Is the thermostat controlled by voltage?


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> How is the thermostat controlled? Is the thermostat controlled by voltage?


It's controlled by the coolant temp

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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Not sure on that. Thought is was a electronic tstat?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

As I interpet its operation, it is primarily controlled by coolant temp but if the computer determines, based on current load, additional cooling is needed it can open the stat electronically.

Rob


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

That's what I was asking, does it add voltage to open it. Could just put 12 volts to plug and open to purge air out


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> How is the thermostat controlled? Is the thermostat controlled by voltage?


It's primarily electronically controlled. It has a 12v heater that the ecm controls according to the temperature reading from the sensor. It doesn't tend to open on its own without the heater. The placement is actually in a bad spot to work without the heater especially on startup.

12v constant to heater and ecm provides the ground. 
I would be very careful trying to manipulate the heater without knowing the exact specifications of the heater. It may have a 100% duty cycle but may not.


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> That's what I was asking, does it add voltage to open it. Could just put 12 volts to plug and open to purge air out


Very bad idea if you have air in the system. If you have air around the heater your could very possibly burn it up.
Loosen the plug in the top of the radiator and let it flow till it comes out there.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

There's no flow with a closed tstat


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

The thermostat is not sealed. They have a weep hole specifically for this. It will fill the radiator and the system. Air typically rises and the water will drain down to the lower areas. Just be patient with it. Squeeze the radiator hoses a bit also and it will help move the air along to the reservoir.You may have a few bubble trapped in the heater core and possibly in the head. Running the [email protected] 2000-2500 rpm should pump the rest out to the reservoir or surge tank provided the ecm opens the thermostat. If the ecm doesn't turn on the heater and open the thermostat you have other issues.


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

Btw are you watching the temp through the diagnostic port or the the gauge? If your using the gauge use the diagnostic port instead. The gauge is nothing more than fancy light. It's highly inaccurate. Make sure the heater is working first. When it starts getting warm turn on the heater and make sure it's blowing warm. This will circulates through the core to help remove any bubbles plus it cools the engine as well. When you confirm the heater is working, turn it off. Watch the actual temp. As in 220 deg. Once it hits 221 is should be opening the the thermostat. It may climb to 224 ... 225 or so. If is doesn't start dropping. Turn the heater back on as you approach 230 quickly. You should see It start to come down with the heater on. Hopefully the thermostat opens and you don't have to cool it with the heater. If the heater doesn't pull it down don't let it overheat. If it's blowing hot it should cool the engine.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

apcnc said:


> Very bad idea if you have air in the system. If you have air around the heater your could very possibly burn it up.
> Loosen the plug in the top of the radiator and let it flow till it comes out there.


Ok I now understand how the tstat opens by the ecm, a heater is built into the tstat to heat coolant surrounding it. This makes sense to me now so I agree manually opening tstat with heater is a bad idea. I was thinking it was more like a bypass valve control to allow coolant flow.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> Ok I now understand how the tstat opens by the ecm, a heater is built into the tstat to heat coolant surrounding it. This makes sense to me now so I agree manually opening tstat with heater is a bad idea.


It's a common thermostat with a heater attached to it. The heater allows the ECM to cause the thermostat to open at a lower temperature than what the thermostat is set for.

According to the specs in the 2013 shop manual, the thermostat should open at 217F (1.4L)/221F (1.8L). With the heater, it can open as low as 176F (1.4L)/194F (1.8L)

It's not uncommon for thermostats to fail in such a way that they do not open. In that case, the heater will not help at all.

The troubleshooting section gives slightly different information. It suggests that the upper limit of Engine Coolant Temperature while at idle is 248F (1.4L)/221F (1.8).


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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

ChevyGuy said:


> It's not uncommon for thermostats to fail in such a way that they do not open. In that case, the heater will not help at all.
> 
> The troubleshooting section gives slightly different information. It suggests that the upper limit of Engine Coolant Temperature while at idle is 248F (1.4L)/221F (1.8).


In my experience it definitely helps. And letting it rise past 240 deg is flirting with disaster... Rated or not. I've also seen that it can and will surpass the operating specifications of the manual thermostat especially at startup because the heater will not penetrate down until then engine is well past it's operating range. If the ecm or heater fails during operation with everything hot it may be ok with manual operation until the system is cooled. After that it's just a matter of time. 

The heater will also most definitely help. It will dramatically cool the system with the thermostat not opening at all with a cold hose and a cold radiator and 220+ deg engine. I'm not talking about driving down the hwy using the heater core to replace the radiator. But the fact is were talking about an extraordinarily small engine. 1.4L Its not going to heat the same amount of water in the same time that a larger engine would. This is the same example when people are having problems with it heating the cabin in winter.

Another thing... I may possibly be wrong about this but I believe the owners manual even recommends using the heater to cool this engine.


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## Chevy_Country (Oct 16, 2015)

apcnc said:


> In my experience it definitely helps. And letting it rise past 240 deg is flirting with disaster... Rated or not. I've also seen that it can and will surpass the operating specifications of the manual thermostat especially at startup because the heater will not penetrate down until then engine is well past it's operating range. If the ecm or heater fails during operation with everything hot it may be ok with manual operation until the system is cooled. After that it's just a matter of time.
> 
> The heater will also most definitely help. It will dramatically cool the system with the thermostat not opening at all with a cold hose and a cold radiator and 220+ deg engine. I'm not talking about driving down the hwy using the heater core to replace the radiator. But the fact is were talking about an extraordinarily small engine. 1.4L Its not going to heat the same amount of water in the same time that a larger engine would. This is the same example when people are having problems with it heating the cabin in winter.
> 
> Another thing... I may possibly be wrong about this but I believe the owners manual even recommends using the heater to cool this engine.


When we say heater do we mean heater blower in the cabin or a heater in the coolant system, I'm not as mechanically incline but am trying to follow lol

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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

Both... Sorry, I just thought it was understood. When speaking of opening the thermostat or the with the ecm, I'm talking about the electronic heater in the thermostat housing. otherwise when speaking of turning on the heater I'm talking about the cabin heater with coolant flowing through the heater core. And the heat blown out into the cabin.


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## Chevy_Country (Oct 16, 2015)

apcnc said:


> Both... Sorry, I just thought it was understood. When speaking of opening the thermostat or the with the ecm, I'm talking about the electronic heater in the thermostat housing. otherwise when speaking of turning on the heater I'm talking about the cabin heater with coolant flowing through the heater core. And the heat blown out into the cabin.


Ok cool, thanks ! Trying to learn and research everything about my car, I'm stuck with it till it's dead, plus I've had this issue before so it's good to know in case it happens again !

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## apcnc (Oct 7, 2013)

Chevy_Country said:


> Ok cool, thanks ! Trying to learn and research everything about my car, I'm stuck with it till it's dead, plus I've had this issue before so it's good to know in case it happens again !


Have you checked ground cables, relay? I would make sure the system is sealed at operating temp also. If you are having cooling issues, I would keep a close eye on it and get it resolved ASAP. 
If driving down the road and you see the gauge creep below 6 oclock on the right you know you have an issue. From what Ive seen with gauge it hits 210 approx 7 oclock or just below and stays pretty motionless past 220.


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## Chevy_Country (Oct 16, 2015)

apcnc said:


> Have you checked ground cables, relay? I would make sure the system is sealed at operating temp also. If you are having cooling issues, I would keep a close eye on it and get it resolved ASAP.
> If driving down the road and you see the gauge creep below 6 oclock on the right you know you have an issue. From what Ive seen with gauge it hits 210 approx 7 oclock or just below and stays pretty motionless past 220.


The last time it happened (thanksgiving last year) I wasn't informed enough to perform the troubleshooting and fix myself. I stopped in Springfield mass and a got a hotel room on my way to my brother in laws house, piped the hood and heard the sizzling coming from the hose directly on the top of the water pump that runs to the reservoir tank (dealer told me bad on ring and connector clip) so I wrapped it with a Terry towel and checked it in the morning, still a puddle and the towel wasn't even soaked, I ended up collecting the last claim before my warranty wore out and had it fixed after batching and whining in the dealer for roughly 2 hours lol. But any way, my interest is because I was told it was a common issue with the 1.4l so I wanna inform myself and maybe save money in the future. The longer I get out of Caitlin the more I get for my money

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## GracieAllen (Mar 31, 2015)

Turns out, after a week of messing with the Cruze, that it was a TINY leak on the water outlet HOUSING... Where the small hose the goes into the housing on the front (the one above the large radiator hose), in the tiny housing space behind the hose, there was a LEAK... It looked like it may have been a seam where the housing was stamped out originally. It must be a VERY common problem 'cause our local dealer (in a small town of less than 20,000) had THREE WATER OUTLET HOUSINGS IN STOCK!!!!!!

So, today I changed the housing and HOPEFULLY that'll resolve the leaking. VERY easy to do - just make sure you spring for yet ANOTHER idiotic kind of socket that wasn't needed for the LAST CENTURY OF BUILDING CARS, but some genius (perhaps someone with stock in a tool company) decided would be a brilliant idea to use. Anyhow, drain the radiator, unhook the hoses, unscrew the three bolts, put the new one back on, hook 'em up, and refill... Took about 20 minutes total. Car was on ramps, which must have helped with getting the air out 'cause it seemed to come out right away.

HOPEFULLY, it's fixed and there won't be any more coolant loss.


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## Chevy_Country (Oct 16, 2015)

GracieAllen said:


> Turns out, after a week of messing with the Cruze, that it was a TINY leak on the water outlet HOUSING... Where the small hose the goes into the housing on the front (the one above the large radiator hose), in the tiny housing space behind the hose, there was a LEAK... It looked like it may have been a seam where the housing was stamped out originally. It must be a VERY common problem 'cause our local dealer (in a small town of less than 20,000) had THREE WATER OUTLET HOUSINGS IN STOCK!!!!!!
> 
> So, today I changed the housing and HOPEFULLY that'll resolve the leaking. VERY easy to do - just make sure you spring for yet ANOTHER idiotic kind of socket that wasn't needed for the LAST CENTURY OF BUILDING CARS, but some genius (perhaps someone with stock in a tool company) decided would be a brilliant idea to use. Anyhow, drain the radiator, unhook the hoses, unscrew the three bolts, put the new one back on, hook 'em up, and refill... Took about 20 minutes total. Car was on ramps, which must have helped with getting the air out 'cause it seemed to come out right away.
> 
> HOPEFULLY, it's fixed and there won't be any more coolant loss.


Very helpful for me to know, thanks for thebupdate, please keep us informed if any further issues arise with the coolant !!!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I think at one time the water outlet was redesigned. If the new one is different than the old, you'll need a new top hose as well.


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