# Big 3 kit for Diesel



## lsone (Jan 23, 2016)

Hey guys, new member. I have a 2014 Diesel Cruze. I searched for quite some time in regards to a "Big 3 Kit" for the diesel. I can find lots of information for the gas jobs but nothing for the diesels? Can anyone shed some light on this topic?

Thanks


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

lsone said:


> Hey guys, new member. I have a 2014 Diesel Cruze. I searched for quite some time in regards to a "Big 3 Kit" for the diesel. I can find lots of information for the gas jobs but nothing for the diesels? Can anyone shed some light on this topic?
> 
> Thanks


Welcome to the forum! I have been on this forum for over 2 1/2 years and I've never heard of a "Big 3 Kit". Can you enlighten me please?


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## lsone (Jan 23, 2016)

diesel said:


> Welcome to the forum! I have been on this forum for over 2 1/2 years and I've never heard of a "Big 3 Kit". Can you enlighten me please?


Thanks! I actually just bought the car, I was putting too many kms on my truck commuting to work.
It is putting larger ground and power cables in. Alt to positive battery terminal, engine to frame ground and battery negative to chassis ground. Lots of car audio guys do this before they put stereos in. The gas cruze guys are doing it to reduce headlight dimming when the alt kicks in, helps take strain off of the charging system, etc

Here is a link, the member selling the kits hasn't been active for 2 years. The topic still gets talked about though.


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## lsone (Jan 23, 2016)

Oops wont let me post a link until 3 posts


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## lsone (Jan 23, 2016)

Here we go LOL

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-audio-electronics/12114-big-3-kits-f-s-order-form.html


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

XS Power BIG3XP 250-amp Big 3 wiring upgrade kit at Crutchfield.com


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

Seems like a good idea if you are going to be putting a biggie stereo and amps in. Otherwise, the diesel model already has a slightly bigger alternator and battery than the gas Cruze.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

Do you know if this would help reduce alternator noise? My system sounds fine until I release the hand brake and the headlights come on, then there is a buzzing noise.

I have a 1600 watt multi-channel amp running two 6x9s on channels 1&2 and two 12" dual subs which are bridged for a single 4 ohm impedance on channels 3&4.


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## lsone (Jan 23, 2016)

chevrasaki said:


> Do you know if this would help reduce alternator noise? My system sounds fine until I release the hand brake and the headlights come on, then there is a buzzing noise.
> 
> I have a 1600 watt multi-channel amp running two 6x9s on channels 1&2 and two 12" dual subs which are bridged for a single 4 ohm impedance on channels 3&4.
> View attachment 177593
> View attachment 177601


Is that all through the stock deck?

Alternator noise is generally because RCA cables or speaker wire was run next to power wires and is picking up noise that way.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

lsone said:


> Is that all through the stock deck?
> 
> Alternator noise is generally because RCA cables or speaker wire was run next to power wires and is picking up noise that way.


Yeah, that is exactly what I did. I was really hoping it wasn't that. In hind sight, I probably should have used a shielded power cable instead of 0 gauge arc welding cable.

Still think It's weird that I only hear it when the lights are on.


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## DECruzer (Jul 19, 2015)

lsone said:


> Is that all through the stock deck?
> 
> Alternator noise is generally because RCA cables or speaker wire was run next to power wires and is picking up noise that way.


Yep! Generally you want to run RCA cables at least 18" away from power cables. Run them on the opposite side from the power. Check your grounds too. You need clean grounds for your amps.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

DECruzer said:


> Yep! Generally you want to run RCA cables at least 18" away from power cables. Run them on the opposite side from the power. Check your grounds too. You need clean grounds for your amps.


I have double checked the grounds to the chassis but I fear there may be some resistance between the amp in the trunk and the battery under the hood. It was much easier in my cobalt when the battery was in the trunk.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I do know there was an upgraded negative battery cable for the diesel released under a TSB. Otherwise, I think the diesel's power output should be able to handle a stereo. It might only be a bit of a strain on a cold start with aux heater, glow plugs, headlights, heated seats and fan active.


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## GlennGlenn (Nov 27, 2015)

diesel said:


> I do know there was an upgraded negative battery cable for the diesel released under a TSB. Otherwise, I think the diesel's power output should be able to handle a stereo. It might only be a bit of a strain on a cold start with aux heater, glow plugs, headlights, heated seats and fan active.



How do we get this upgraded negative battery cable?? Do we have to ask dealer at service or complain??


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

GlennGlenn said:


> How do we get this upgraded negative battery cable?? Do we have to ask dealer at service or complain??


it should have been done to a 2015



ChevyMgr said:


> #14311: Special Coverage Adjustment - Negative Battery Cable Loose - (Dec 3, 2014)
> 
> Subject:14311 — Special Coverage Adjustment – Negative Battery Cable Loose
> 
> ...


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## GlennGlenn (Nov 27, 2015)

My MY 2015 build was early Dec 2014, so I am wondering if they got to this??


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Tell them your battery saver light was on and mention the TSB. That should be all they need. That's what they put on my paperwork when I had it done.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

GlennGlenn said:


> My MY 2015 build was early Dec 2014, so I am wondering if they got to this??


theyre not allowed to sell a vehicle with open recall, correct?


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

diesel said:


> I do know there was an upgraded negative battery cable for the diesel released under a TSB. Otherwise, I think the diesel's power output should be able to handle a stereo. It might only be a bit of a strain on a cold start with aux heater, glow plugs, headlights, heated seats and fan active.


the wiring would be spec'd to meet the needs of the stock cars usage.

add 200w of lighting, 1000w of stereo, etc i would think things would be taxed


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## GlennGlenn (Nov 27, 2015)

boraz said:


> theyre not allowed to sell a vehicle with open recall, correct?



"Supposed to" is one thing, reality is another. They sold it to me with the sunroof recall open  I literally got notified by OnStar before the dealer caught it.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I don't think the battery cable is a recall. I think it's just an extended warranty item. I believe it's 10 years 120K miles.


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## lsone (Jan 23, 2016)

I had a gander at the cables last night... The positive from alternator to battery is big, bigger than Ive seen on some half ton trucks. The grounds do look a little small, I'll probably add an extra at some point.

I also saw that guys put a putco headlight harness in these cars... Im not going to bother as once I retrofit my headlights with projectors and HIDs, I'll feed the HIDs from a standalone dedicated relay harness and use the factory harness as the switched power to turn the headlights on.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

DECruzer said:


> XS Power BIG3XP 250-amp Big 3 wiring upgrade kit at Crutchfield.com


Take a close look at the fine print on the Crutchfield cables? They state they are "1/0-gauge copper-clad aluminum cables" sounds like they are general power line cable stock and NOT the same as solid copper strands. They certainly are cheaper then the ones by tecollins1 which claim copper although one could never convince me that low oxygen cable will make any difference. For those splitting hairs these are not the same cables and the price reflects the differences in this application.

One could try any of the "super capacitors" at the amp to see if that helps with the lights dimming and the whining noise from the ALT. There are many website which explain how to calculate capacitor value for the problem.


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