# Service Battery Charging System



## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> First, some background and comments...
> 
> My 2011 Cruze ECO 6 speed manual transmission has been sitting for a couple of years. A few days ago, I installed a new turbo. I have fresh gas, oil, coolant etc in the vehicle .
> 
> ...


How many volts does your battery have. The DIC on the dash can tell you.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> Important note: when attaching the negative cable, there was a small spark (between the negative terminal connector and battery post) when I first touched the connector to the post. In fact, since then, I have removed that negative cable several times and reinstalled it. Pretty much every time I install it, I get that spark.


Getting a spark when attaching the negative, is very normal. And actually a good thing, because it probably means the battery is charged.  

I'm hoping your problem is the negative battery cable. 



ShayneJ said:


> I have cleaned the terminals with a wire brush replaces fuse 69


You replaced fuse 69? Was it blown? Or did you replace it just because?


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Johnny B said:


> Getting a spark when attaching the negative, is very normal. And actually a good thing, because it probably means the battery is charged.
> 
> I'm hoping your problem is the negative battery cable.
> 
> ...


Just because. I didn't have a meter nor my reading glasses. Lol. So, I couldn't tell for certain, so I just changed it, because I'm pretty sure if that particular fuse is blown, I would see these symptoms.

I "wanted" to knock on the starter but I'm not 100% sure where it is. If it's in the vicinity of where I suspect. I'm not sure that I have a tool to reach it 

Suppose the new cable doesn't improve things, what would be my next steps (after, I suppose, pecking on the starter)?

One last thing.... there were a few wasp nests under the hood. I think I got all of them, but wanted to mention it, in case there is somewhere I should examine (based on that info) that you might not examine otherwise. In fact there was a big one on the coil pack but I tried to be careful about breaking it up and then using my air hose to blow out all the debris. How "sensitive" is the top of that coil pack?

Shayne


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> How many volts does your battery have. The DIC on the dash can tell you.


Really? I don't remember there being a readout for the battery voltage, but I will check it tomorrow when I get back over there. (On the dash and with a meter.)


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> Really? I don't remember there being a readout for the battery voltage, but I will check it tomorrow when I get back over there. (On the dash and with a meter.)


it will be on the dash. Left stalk will allow you to scroll the menu in the center where the MPH is displayed.


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> it will be on the dash. Left stalk will allow you to scroll the menu in the center where the MPH is displayed.


Oh yeah! LOL it's been a while since I had this vehicle running. I'm really looking forward to driving it again!

Shayne


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> Oh yeah! LOL it's been a while since I had this vehicle running. I'm really looking forward to driving it again!
> 
> Shayne


start with battery voltage reading and we can go from there.


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> start with battery voltage reading and we can go from there.


Just a reminder. New battery. And I have been unhooking the negative cable when I leave the vehicle.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> Just a reminder. New battery. And I have been unhooking the negative cable when I leave the vehicle.


new battery doesn’t mean anything to me. I go off numbers and real data. But thanks for the heads up.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Did you charge the battery before installing it?


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

BDCCruze said:


> Did you charge the battery before installing it?


I didn't. I asked the lady to check it and to be honest. I had my grandchildren with me and was halfway paying attention when she said "see, it looks good".

So.. I'm on my way there with the new negative cable now. If it still won't crank after new cable and the voltage on the battery is good, what would be the next step? Any suggestions on how to peck on the starter? (Like specific tools to use, the best angle to approach it from (from above or under the vehicle), etc,)

I really appreciate all the help!

Shayne


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> How many volts does your battery have. The DIC on the dash can tell you.


12.4 Volts. Same result after installing new negative cable. Starter just clicks. Will update after battery has been charged.

Shayne


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> 12.4 Volts. Same result after installing new negative cable. Starter just clicks. Will update after battery has been charged.
> 
> Shayne


12.4v is more than enough to start the car.


- remove drive belt and physically crank engine over manually.

- you can also check for voltage drop. with the ignition set to start, check for less than 0.5v from battery positive to starter terminal and also check for less than 0.5v from battery negative to starter casing.


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> 12.4v is more than enough to start the car.
> 
> 
> - remove drive belt and physically crank engine over manually.
> ...


I'm not 100% sure how to check the drop as you described. I have the car on jack stands right now. I'm not sure I can reach the starter from the top. Maybe from the bottom? Coming back tomorrow...

Shayne


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> I'm not 100% sure how to check the drop as you described. I have the car on jack stands right now. I'm not sure I can reach the starter from the top. Maybe from the bottom? Coming back tomorrow...
> 
> Shayne


probably easier from the bottom. I haven’t personally had to deal with our starter but I know it’s on the back side of the engine below the manifold. 😣


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> I'm not 100% sure how to check the drop as you described. I have the car on jack stands right now. I'm not sure I can reach the starter from the top. Maybe from the bottom? Coming back tomorrow...
> 
> Shayne


also don’t forget the possibility of a dead cell inside the brand new battery. Check the battery voltage when you turn the key to run and let me know.


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> also don’t forget the possibility of a dead cell inside the brand new battery. Check the battery voltage when you turn the key to run and let me know.


Ok. I actually took it to advance last night. I am going to pick it up tomorrow.. I just asked them to charge it. Didn't ask for testing...


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Considering how much I have put in this vehicle lately, I may just order a new AC Delco starter. Parts geek has them for $133.58. I think that's the OEM version. The vehicle has 145,000 miles and has sat for at least 2-3 years. I suspect if it isn't the starter, it will be going out soon anyway. Thoughts?


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Could a bad starter cause the "Service Battery Charging System" message to display?


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

One more question/idea... I'm about to go work on this now and had a thought. This is a manual transmission vehicle. Why wouldn't I try "push starting" it? That's what I would have done back in the day. Lol. I live basically on a hill. And my aunts house is at the bottom of the hill. So, if after popping the clutch a few times and it still doesn't start, I can just pull off the road and into her driveway. Maybe that would "break something loose"? (You suggested turning over the engine manually, what better way?) LOL Should I be concerned about damaging anything? Or, maybe I should just wait on the starter. Amazon has an oem ac delco one for $85 and I will get it tomorrow. At this point that seems like a no-brainer...


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

Well a starter isn’t part of your charging system. I personally feel you have a battery issue.

Correct me if I’m wrong but you have said that you get a click from the solenoid and then nothing when you try to start the car. Also that the service charging system comes up.

you also stated you have 12.4v on your battery.

to me there are a few possibilities,

- bad cell in your battery: test the battery or just try jump starting.

- seized engine: pull off belt and rotate engine manually to confirm.

- high resistance/voltage drop on your positive cable to starter or battery negative to starter casing: check for voltage drop less than 0.5v on both.

you could also check for 12v on “30” for your starter relay with the car in start position. if you really can’t access the starter.

If everything tests out good then you have a bad starter.

The point of testing is because a no start isn’t always a bad starter. I’ve seen no start be a bad shift linkage bad battery+ cable to starter, ignition switches etc… gotta start from the battery and work down to the problem.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> One more question/idea... I'm about to go work on this now and had a thought. This is a manual transmission vehicle. Why wouldn't I try "push starting" it? That's what I would have done back in the day. Lol. I live basically on a hill. And my aunts house is at the bottom of the hill. So, if after popping the clutch a few times and it still doesn't start, I can just pull off the road and into her driveway. Maybe that would "break something loose"? (You suggested turning over the engine manually, what better way?) LOL Should I be concerned about damaging anything? Or, maybe I should just wait on the starter. Amazon has an oem ac delco one for $85 and I will get it tomorrow. At this point that seems like a no-brainer...


if your push starting correctly which I see a lot of people not able to do it should start regardless of a bad battery. Seems like you know how to push start so maybe we can eliminate the battery that way. Also would provide enough evidence to me that the starter is bad.


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## ShayneJ (Mar 30, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> if your push starting correctly which I see a lot of people not able to do it should start regardless of a bad battery. Seems like you know how to push start so maybe we can eliminate the battery that way. Also would provide enough evidence to me that the starter is bad.


So... if the engine is seized, push starting would also "un seize" it. Right? 

I tested the battery and it's good. Charged it fully and did some testing just using the voltmeter on the dash...

12.9/13.0 volts at battery (measured with hand meter).

Turn key "on" (before start) and let the checks run and the dash light up... then using the built in volt meter on the dash, it reads 12 6. (So either the dash is "off" 0.4 or there is that much loss from the battery to the "built in gauge" used by the dash.)

Hold key to start and it (the dash meter) goes to 12.3.

Release the key (back to "on") and volts (on the dash meter) climbs back up to 12.6. (At this point, I measured the battery again, using my hand meter and it still reads 12.9/13 at the battery.)

Note... if I hold the key to start for a "long" time (like 5-6 seconds or more), I hear a second click (the solenoid disengaging??).

Thoughts/tips after considering this new information?

Shayne


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ShayneJ said:


> So... if the engine is seized, push starting would also "un seize" it. Right?
> 
> I tested the battery and it's good. Charged it fully and did some testing just using the voltmeter on the dash...
> 
> ...


Battery is good. Have you checked voltage at relay and checked positive/negative cable for voltage drops?


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## pizzahut111 (10 mo ago)

Hi Shayne. Were you able to figure this one out? I believe I'm having the same issue. 


ShayneJ said:


> So... if the engine is seized, push starting would also "un seize" it. Right?


Hi Shayne, I believe I'm having the same issue. I replaced the starter and got a new battery... were you able to resolve your issue?

Thanks


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