# Adding Amp and Subs to Upgraded Pioneer system 2013 LTZ RS



## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

Hello everyone, shadetree installer here for many years. The last time I installed was in my 2005 Chevy Malibu. So Now I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze LTZ RS, everything but the navigation. I look under the hood to see how hard it would be to start the install and I've NEVER seen a battery with that many connections run off of it BEFORE any aftermarket installation. I've also never worked on a car that already had some type of factory upgraded system or amp. That got me to thinking and 2nd guessing doing my own installation. I have read a lot of what has been going on in these forums and if some of these guys can do it with no experience, I sure can with some of the experience I have. I do have a few questions tho that I didn't see answers to. My basic idea, and please correct me if I'm wrong, is to replace the 6x9's with coaxial's and have the factory amp run all the speakers, if in fact that is what it does now. Then just add the subs and amp for the real bass. So with that, I ask you: The factory amp in the trunk, does that power all the speakers or just the 6x9's?? If I'm going to be installing my subs, can I just use the line inputs before the factory amp to feed my subs amp?? Where does the mid's and hi's get filtered out for the stock 6x9's?? Any other words of wisdom and advice would be appreciated. LET"S GO PENS !!!! to all my fellow Pittsburghers !!!!!!


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## rescueswimmer (Mar 28, 2013)

om what I have read the amp supplies to all the speakers.I'm in the same boat.The wife hates the sound of the pioneer. Or the lack of sound from the back speakers. Which I have read the pic from Chevy is a known issue but they call it "designed to be like that" what a poor excuse. xtremhopefully will chime in when he gets back from the event. Let's Go pens, born and raised black and gold
Sent from my mobile device.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

That's whats I thought I read to about the amp running all the speakers but I want to make sure. The part that I really need to find out is where the 6x9 subs get filtered. Is it at the amp itself or after the amp near the speaker?? I hate to install new 6x9's for full sound and have the hi's and mids' filtered again. If its the amp, Im chucking the amp and I will use an aftermarket amp. Which is probably for the better anyways. There is no information on the factory amp at all. I do like the sound of the Upgraded Pioneer system up to a certain level but it just seems built for the front seats and once you start getting into the higher volumes, it just doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I don't understand how they expected the door speakers to make up the difference.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

i would love to help you out on this, but i do not have the pioneer system and its a lil confusing myself. from what ive heard a while back, the rear door speakers and the rear deck are coming off the same channel (meaning two speakers per channel Leftrear and right rear). basically dividing your power between the door and the deck. which is why the rears are not as loud. (also has to do with the fact that the rears are muffled by the bench seat and the front seat and are off axis from the driver and passenger)


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

6x9s are for bass only. No adjustments. Don't bother replacing them. In fact, if you're adding a sub, I'd just remove them. 

If you want to improve the Pioneer system, you have to gut it. Remove rear doors, front doors, get a 4 channel amp, a pair of coaxials, a pair of component sets, and a sub. A good 5-channel amp would do well for a lower power sub, but you may need to go with one 4 channel and one mono if you want some heavier bass. It's up to you, your budget, and your listening preferences. Bare minimum though, the door speakers have to go if you want better sound. All 4 of them, and the tweeter pillars.


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## louierocko (Mar 26, 2013)

I just replaced the front speakers in my Cruze last weekend. I am not sure what the stock tweeters are crossed over at but the set that I put in are playing down to 1,500hz. It made a huge improvement in stage height and depth. In my opinion you don't want any tweeters crossed higher than 2,000hz if you want a realistic sound stage. The stock location is pretty good but a dash cover is needed to eliminate reflections.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

Xtreme- Thanks, thats what I decided to do a few days ago. Figured factory equipment always sucks anyways and I would have more control of the system if I just gutted the whole thing. The past few days all of my speakers, amp kit, etc etc etc came in. I am going to do the installation today and this weekend. I am replacing the speakers in the doors and adding a pair to the rear deck with 6 1/2 Polk Audio DXi650's. Found them at an incredible price and they got really great reviews. Crutchfield had the brackets needed to fit in the doors and rear deck. I already have MTX 12" Jackhammers run on a Kenwood KAC-10D with bass control. Stinger 4 gauge OFC amp kit. Stinger digital voltage display. I have a Kinetik battery to install if needed, which will probably be needed. The battery, subs and amp is from my last install in my 2005 Malibu. The subs vibrated the house so I am still happy with them and the amp powering them. I have been thinking about the tweeters and dash speaker but have yet to decide on what to replace them with. Any suggestions there?? Crutchfield had a 3 1/2 Retrosound speaker that would fit perfectly for the dash speaker.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

louierocko- What did you replace them with?? Im still searching for tweeters and a dash speaker.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

qwabazz said:


> Xtreme- Thanks, thats what I decided to do a few days ago. Figured factory equipment always sucks anyways and I would have more control of the system if I just gutted the whole thing. The past few days all of my speakers, amp kit, etc etc etc came in. I am going to do the installation today and this weekend. I am replacing the speakers in the doors and adding a pair to the rear deck with 6 1/2 Polk Audio DXi650's. Found them at an incredible price and they got really great reviews. Crutchfield had the brackets needed to fit in the doors and rear deck. I already have MTX 12" Jackhammers run on a Kenwood KAC-10D with bass control. Stinger 4 gauge OFC amp kit. Stinger digital voltage display. I have a Kinetik battery to install if needed, which will probably be needed. The battery, subs and amp is from my last install in my 2005 Malibu. The subs vibrated the house so I am still happy with them and the amp powering them. I have been thinking about the tweeters and dash speaker but have yet to decide on what to replace them with. Any suggestions there?? Crutchfield had a 3 1/2 Retrosound speaker that would fit perfectly for the dash speaker.


You should have bought a component set for the front. The factory tweeters need to go. That's really the only way to do it as there would be far too big of an impedance change and resulting output if you just add any random tweeter. Volume/level matching would be a nightmare. 

Don't forget your big 3 kit. Terry (tecollins1) on this forum sells them for an excellent price, and it's better quality than you'll find anywhere else.

If you want to replace the dash speaker, go to parts-express.com and search for 3" or 3.5" full range drivers.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

Well, I can still change and get a component set or I can try them at a later date. I do appreciate your help and expert advice. Checking out parts-express now.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

qwabazz said:


> Well, I can still change and get a component set or I can try them at a later date. I do appreciate your help and expert advice. Checking out parts-express now.


Keep an eye on the depth of the drivers when considering 3.5" full range speakers. Also keep an eye on impedance. I believe you'd want a 4-ohm driver. 

I would definitely go with a component set. If you're on a budget, Polk's DB series is decent.


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## Batesy (May 18, 2013)

First post. I've just bought a new 2013 Holden Cruze MY14 model, and am looking to upgrade the speaker set to something with a bit more beef.. I'm fairly basic with knowledge when it comes to speakers/subwoofers, but I'd like to give it a crack. If I were to gut the entire system and install a sub, amp and relevant speakers, what would the cost generally be? I'm thinking about buying my own components from this forum + other locations, and having an installer give it a crack. 

I've got some pioneer 6x9 500w speakers that could be some use from my old car


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Batesy said:


> First post. I've just bought a new 2013 Holden Cruze MY14 model, and am looking to upgrade the speaker set to something with a bit more beef.. I'm fairly basic with knowledge when it comes to speakers/subwoofers, but I'd like to give it a crack. If I were to gut the entire system and install a sub, amp and relevant speakers, what would the cost generally be? I'm thinking about buying my own components from this forum + other locations, and having an installer give it a crack.
> 
> I've got some pioneer 6x9 500w speakers that could be some use from my old car


If you are really wanting to gut everything out then it will be in the range of $1000-$1300 USD
and that's reusing the stock head unit.

It really depends on how much bass you want. That's prob the most expensive part. 

Just sell those 6x9s, with a dedicated sub you won't need them.
Also the 500W rating you listed is not the RMS. Your looking at the max rating. Never go off of the max rating, always use the RMS.

You should start your own "build thread" so we can help you out better.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## Batesy (May 18, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> If you are really wanting to gut everything out then it will be in the range of $1000-$1300 USD
> and that's reusing the stock head unit.
> 
> It really depends on how much bass you want. That's prob the most expensive part.
> ...


Thanks for the reply!

I've been reading up a bit (mainly here so far) about installing a new system. I was a bit.. forthcoming with the 'gutting it entirely' part. Looking to keep main head unit, rear door speakers and replace basically everything else. I'll consider starting another thread tomorrow as it's quite late in Australia atm.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

Just to check in, I'm basically done with my install. Basically have to tuck all the wires away, put all the plastics back together. Here is a huge tip that I didnt see anyone have on here about the PAC AA-GM44; I found it more difficult than it was worth to do what everyone else was doing with it plus if you ever need it, you have to take everything all back out again. All I did was was extend the 8 wires from the wiring harness that plug into the PAC itself. Now my PAC is at floor level behind the kick panel and you can get to it any time you want. My amp has a wired remote bass boost so I installed that in the little compartment under the AC controls. The music is amazing. The Bass hits harder than it did in my Malibu. The Polk Audio DXi 650 sound awesome in the rear doors and rear deck. Finally some actual music from the back and just not bass.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

To answer my questions and many others: The factory amp DOES filter out the hi's and mids' to the rear deck. It also is safe to say (and someone also mentioned this) is that the rear deck and rear door feed off the same channel. Once you remove the rear deck, your rear door speakers gain some more power back.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

qwabazz said:


> Just to check in, I'm basically done with my install. Basically have to tuck all the wires away, put all the plastics back together. Here is a huge tip that I didnt see anyone have on here about the PAC AA-GM44; I found it more difficult than it was worth to do what everyone else was doing with it plus if you ever need it, you have to take everything all back out again. All I did was was extend the 8 wires from the wiring harness that plug into the PAC itself. Now my PAC is at floor level behind the kick panel and you can get to it any time you want. My amp has a wired remote bass boost so I installed that in the little compartment under the AC controls. The music is amazing. The Bass hits harder than it did in my Malibu. The Polk Audio DXi 650 sound awesome in the rear doors and rear deck. Finally some actual music from the back and just not bass.


It is my honest opinion that music should never come from behind you. I have never seen a well-executed install that required rear speakers for any reason whatsoever. That "in the club" effect really only works with a very small selection of music. Terry and I (and many who listened to my system at the Lordstown meet and raved about it) could demonstrate just how incredible a system will sound when you beef up the front stage and disconnect everything in the rear. You will never feel that there's anything missing in the back. The only purpose for rear speakers is to make your rear passengers comfortable.


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## qwabazz (May 18, 2013)

I like the "surround sound" of having some hi's and mid's coming from the back. Don't get me wrong, the back door and rear deck are not over powering the front speakers. just " complementing" them. Plus they are back there now for rear passengers. I also like to hear the singer and other musical instruments among the bass, not have the bass over power everything. I don't know if your ever in a show around my area or even close enough for me to drive to, but I would like to hear your system sometime, meet you and personally thank you for helping me with advice and such. I have read many of your replies to other peoples threads. But for now I will say "Thank you" here.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

qwabazz said:


> I like the "surround sound" of having some hi's and mid's coming from the back. Don't get me wrong, the back door and rear deck are not over powering the front speakers. just " complementing" them. Plus they are back there now for rear passengers. I also like to hear the singer and other musical instruments among the bass, not have the bass over power everything. I don't know if your ever in a show around my area or even close enough for me to drive to, but I would like to hear your system sometime, meet you and personally thank you for helping me with advice and such. I have read many of your replies to other peoples threads. But for now I will say "Thank you" here.


Here's the issue I have with rear sound. Nothing you hear is on-axis. In otherwords, the door speakers play where passengers' feet will be, and the deck speakers fire into the rear window. Everything you hear is reflected, and certain frequencies wrap around objects and reflect differently. Without going into too much detail, what you're hearing is pretty much severely compromised, and in some definitions, distorted sound. Surround sound works very nicely in home theater where you have effects that create a three-dimensional space; an effect you cannot reproduce with only two speakers no matter how hard you try. Having said that, I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to sound, so what I may consider to be a big deal may not bother you at all. 

With regard to bass, it can become overpowering depending on how well it is integrated and how well it blends. Boomy bass found in most subwoofers will not sound good no matter what you do, but a subwoofer that is musical will blend more easily. A proper front sound stage with a strong midbass will blow you away. The trouble with this is cost, as it's not cheap to gut and replace the entire system. 

If you enjoy the sound, then the last thing I want to do is discourage you. The search for sound quality in general is a disease, and sometimes it's best not to know what music should sound like. Dave (EcoDave) heard Terry's (tecollins1) sound system at the meet, and Dave thought it sounded awesome. That's convenient as we installed nearly the same system in his car. However, he and Terry then heard my system, and without going into detail, the difference between stock and Terry's car is the difference between Terry's car and my car, multiplied. Sometimes it's best to just enjoy what you have. 

I'm glad to be able to help. My intention really is to help people get the best sound they possibly can with a given budget. If you ever have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Keep an eye on the community/events section of the forum, as we may be setting up a meet in that general area in the fall.


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## johncsmith44 (May 31, 2013)

I have read a lot of the posts here on the sound quality of the chevy cruze. I have a 2012 1lt with the basic audion setup. There are only two issues I notice. First when you fade to the back the sound is very low and you have to crank up the volume. That could be because they are only two speaks at the back and four in front. I am including the tweeters as the other two speakers. Second in the auto adjustment for the sound there is no option for jazz just pop, country and so on. Other than that I was thinking that the real challenge is tweaking the sound using the manual option accessed from under the tone button. I got the sound in the rear to be wonderful. I did a manual adjustment - volume to about 30 to 33, Fade to back at 14, bass to 6, midrange to 5 and trebble to 8 and I got great sound out of the system. You will have to make tweaks for all music sources it will be different for mp3's as for a regular CD or XM. But in all honesty I think it is a pretty decent system for a base unit. And truly good sound can be had.


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## Brandon135b (Feb 26, 2016)

qwabazz said:


> Just to check in, I'm basically done with my install. Basically have to tuck all the wires away, put all the plastics back together. Here is a huge tip that I didnt see anyone have on here about the PAC AA-GM44; I found it more difficult than it was worth to do what everyone else was doing with it plus if you ever need it, you have to take everything all back out again. All I did was was extend the 8 wires from the wiring harness that plug into the PAC itself. Now my PAC is at floor level behind the kick panel and you can get to it any time you want. My amp has a wired remote bass boost so I installed that in the little compartment under the AC controls. The music is amazing. The Bass hits harder than it did in my Malibu. The Polk Audio DXi 650 sound awesome in the rear doors and rear deck. Finally some actual music from the back and just not bass.


So by removing the factory pioneer amp.. did the MyLink system lose any features??? It thinking about doing the same type of install but I'm afraid of losing key features to the Cruze.


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## razercruze15 (Feb 15, 2016)

Brandon135b said:


> So by removing the factory pioneer amp.. did the MyLink system lose any features??? It thinking about doing the same type of install but I'm afraid of losing key features to the Cruze.


You will not lose any features if the install is done right.
I can speak from my own car.


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## Brandon135b (Feb 26, 2016)

razercruze15 said:


> You will not lose any features if the install is done right.
> I can speak from my own car.


do you have any pics to show.. I'm trying to figure out how to go about re-wiring the speaker wire to a new amp..any advice?


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## razercruze15 (Feb 15, 2016)

Brandon135b said:


> do you have any pics to show.. I'm trying to figure out how to go about re-wiring the speaker wire to a new amp..any advice?


You need a Line out converter / High to Low / DSP. 

There are many, recent threads concerning this where I have written responses on what you fully need for a system with or without the factory head unit.

WHen I have more time Ill do the same for you but you can look in the Audio section for similar threads to see my responses.


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## Brandon135b (Feb 26, 2016)

razercruze15 said:


> You need a Line out converter / High to Low / DSP.
> 
> There are many, recent threads concerning this where I have written responses on what you fully need for a system with or without the factory head unit.
> 
> WHen I have more time Ill do the same for you but you can look in the Audio section for similar threads to see my responses.


I'm looking at using the AA-GM44 from the head unit for the Sub..then later on using either a 4 or 6 channel amp using high input to run the regular speakers.

My question is the Pioneer amp JUST an amp and only has speakers going to it? Also do the door sounds go through the amplifier? That amp is leaving me with a lot of questions. Lol thanks for the help!!


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Brandon135b said:


> My question is the Pioneer amp JUST an amp and only has speakers going to it?


Yes. 




Brandon135b said:


> Also do the door sounds go through the amplifier?


In the OEM system, all sounds go though the stereo (and though the Pioneer amp). So you can make the stereo more powerful, but I'd be careful about making it louder for a given volume control settings. (IOW, only use a little volume boost when setting the amp levels.)


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## razercruze15 (Feb 15, 2016)

^^ yeah, when using the factory amp, if you're turning the gain up somehow (Ive never messed with factory amps), carefully raise the volume when you first play it, have your signal source (wherever the music is coming from) at max and the HU volume at low/0 and raise slowly until you hear even the faintest sound of distortion, then go back down and don't go back up. My 2 cents.


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