# question on changing pads



## 30 Ounce (Nov 18, 2012)

I always do. Just a little bit of high temp brake grease and your good. Helps reduce noise....


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## Rockhead (Jul 10, 2014)

^^^^ What he said. It also allows the pad to slide in the caliper, reducing the risk for uneven wearing on the brake pads.


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## cruzer1026 (May 12, 2012)

OK got the fronts done. Very easy! Now when I went to check the rear brakes I saw this funky looking bolt. It was connected to the bottom bolt of the caliper. It's got a rubber cap covering the bolt I guess. How do I take that out?
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/ab334/jonblaze1026/20150411_121356.jpg
http://i877.photobucket.com/albums/ab334/jonblaze1026/20150411_122004.jpg


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

That is the rear caliper vibration damper.










See that stud on the left, the lower part with a hex on it, just turn that CCW, the whole damper comes off. No need to remove the damper from this stud.

I soaked all four of my pad holders in a 50-50 solution of hydrochloric acid and water to remove the rust for about 20 minutes, dried they off and painted them with a 900*F brake paint. Coated the area where the clips go on with anti-seize so rust will not build up under the clips, and also on the outside of the clips so the pads can slide in and out easily.

This is an old Toyota design and even CR wasn't happy with these. Neither am I, but maybe they will last longer now without seizing the pads.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

What I could see on my pad holders, was well plated, what I couldn't see was bare rusted steel. Had to use a block of wood to remove the pads, really jammed in there tight.

After cleaning, painting, anti-seize, could easily press in the pads with my fingers and this is the way they should be. I used the original ones, practically no wear, but those suckers were really jammed in there. Hitting the brake pedal would release the pad pressure, and were dragging on the rotors. Rotors don't last very long this way, and fuel economy suffers. 

Simple test is to hand spin the wheel, should only be a very slight pad drag, hit the brake pedal and try it again, still should spin with a very slight pad drag.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Unlike the fronts you are going to need a piston retractor for the rear.....the pistons must be turned for them to retract into the caliper.
Do not try to press....you will destroy the park brake inner workings.

Rob


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Good point, Robby, and Chevy just had to change this too, that square universal screw in tool had for years, no longer works. Now two small holes on the opposite sides of the piston. I just used my longest pair of long nose pliers to do this, but tools are available.

Then you have to work the parking brake to bring the pistons back out or will have a real low brake pedal. If still under warranty and they won't adjust, had to fight with two dealers that were complete idiots on these brakes. Talking to reps on this board, said to find a different dealer. That finally worked for me. They actually knew you had to work the parking brake to close that gap and if they didn't, replace under warranty. Next time, will have to buy new ones.


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## cruzer1026 (May 12, 2012)

Thanks guys! Totally didn't know the rear pistons had to be turned to retract. Well I didn't have to do the rear brakes since there was still a lot of pad left but glad you brought that up about the Pistons being turned. I'll keep that in mind when it comes time to do the rear brakes


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