# Gen 1 TD brake size/upgrade



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

so I feel a warp to my rotors at 44k miles. its ever so slight so not rushing but may as well since it can wear other things. Im leaning to the Hawk HPS 5.0 with the Hawk talon rotors. on the tire rack site it specifically says for models with 276mm front disk at 239.00$$ https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/bra...=Cruze&autoYear=2015&autoModClar=Turbo+Diesel

i can either use hawk performance ceramic in rear or the hawk HPS pads.

so what size rotors are the gen 1 diesel. anyone have any sites that would give me the brakes for a better deal?

im also considering the hawk performance ceramic pads and talon rotors front with the same pads rear but other brand rear rotors since the talons aren't made for rear.


https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Hawk&model=Talon+Performance+Ceramic+Brake+Kit+-+Slotted+%26+Drilled&group=Talon+Performance+Ceramic+Brake+Kit+-+Slotted+%26+Drilled&partNum=HTR4119.706Z&autoMake=Chevrolet&autoModel=Cruze&autoYear=2015&autoModClar=Turbo+Diesel


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

assuming gen 1 Td uses 300mm rotors none of these will work. if that ends up the case what options do we have for brake upgrades.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

The Gen1 TD uses same pattern rotors and pads as the Buick Verano and the Gen1 Volt


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> The Gen1 TD uses same pattern rotors and pads as the Buick Verano and the Gen1 Volt


So is that the 276mm or the 300mm rotors. I’m pretty darn sure the 276 is the 1.4 rotors not the diesel. I don’t see the Buick offering much better in terms of performance options.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Gen1 TD is 300mm, If you use a Volt or aVerano though you shouldn't have any issues wondering which size they are selling you.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> Gen1 TD is 300mm, If you use a Volt or aVerano though you shouldn't have any issues wondering which size they are selling you.


Definitely so. I just wish there where more performance options. Nothing crazy like a track pad but like sports pads.

like EBC only offers rear performance pads for the verano. No rotors or pads up front.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Just Google D1467. You're welcome. 
People got some weak skills up in dis bish.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'm surprised you're running into hot-spotting...we didn't encounter much - if any - of that by the time I changed the front pads and rotors (which were metal to metal by then) at 100k miles. The last 75% of that, or so, was basically all city driving.

Which is why I reinstalled the GM OE pads/rotors.

That all said, I've run the same Hawk HPS pads on my Cobalt for like...a decade now. They last forever and make basically no dust.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> I'm surprised you're running into hot-spotting...we didn't encounter much - if any - of that by the time I changed the front pads and rotors (which were metal to metal by then) at 100k miles. The last 75% of that, or so, was basically all city driving.
> 
> Which is why I reinstalled the GM OE pads/rotors.
> 
> That all said, I've run the same Hawk HPS pads on my Cobalt for like...a decade now. They last forever and make basically no dust.


When coming to a stop even if in N I feel the warped rotor oscillation but none in the pedal. Like it’s very minor but enough when hyper mile braking you feel it. I did minor auto X, we drove down clingmans dome at fast speeds, I weekly put the ABS through its paces to ensure no build up in the ABS module. The rotor and pads look to have plenty of life left but that slight warp bothers me. On the rotors there is 0% evidence of overheating but IDk **** happens.

what I’m finding tough to believe is there are 0 performance brake of options for the diesel Cruze up front hawk PC,HPS/HPS 5.0 pads for rear but non for diesel front. Also no performance rotors in the 300mm size. Stock I found the modulation good but I want more grab for less pedal. Sure harder to modulate but with the sticky rubber I run I want the brakes to have a lot of bite to match. Especially when those B14 get put on.

If I can’t find any performance brake pads and rotors I think I will go back to OEM, or put the OEM from the Verano since they may be just a tad better GM part number


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> Just Google D1467. You're welcome.
> People got some weak skills up in dis bish.


So I googled them and you’re 100% sure these for the diesel Cruze front for pads?


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> When coming to a stop even if in N I feel the warped rotor oscillation but none in the pedal. Like it’s very minor but enough when hyper mile braking you feel it. I did minor auto X, we drove down clingmans dome at fast speeds, I weekly put the ABS through its paces to ensure no build up in the ABS module. The rotor and pads look to have plenty of life left but that slight warp bothers me. On the rotors there is 0% evidence of overheating but IDk **** happens.
> 
> what I’m finding tough to believe is there are 0 performance brake of options for the diesel Cruze up front hawk PC,HPS/HPS 5.0 pads for rear but non for diesel front. Also no performance rotors in the 300mm size. Stock I found the modulation good but I want more grab for less pedal. Sure harder to modulate but with the sticky rubber I run I want the brakes to have a lot of bite to match. Especially when those B14 get put on.
> 
> If I can’t find any performance brake pads and rotors I think I will go back to OEM, or put the OEM from the Verano since they may be just a tad better GM part number


Check the inner surface of the rotor/inner pads. Hard to see because of the dust shields, unfortunately.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Check the inner surface of the rotor/inner pads. Hard to see because of the dust shields, unfortunately.


What would I be looking for, uneven of wear?


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I would look for hot-spotting on the inner rotor surface (pad deposits from high heat), which would be causing the "warped" feeling. With the dust shield, it could be "locking" in the heat a bit. 

I know on my Cobalt, when I still ran the 15" steelies, it used to absolutely _cook_ rotors (hot-spot them) terribly. The steel wheel just seemed to hold all that heat in. My 18's are so much more open that it seems to allow the brakes to properly cool down on their own...but then again, I hardly use the brakes anymore (because the fluid is terrible - need to change that - it's original, numbers matching brake fluid), so it's not quite an apples to apples comparison.


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

pandrad61 said:


> So I googled them and you’re 100% sure these for the diesel Cruze front for pads?







__





2014 CHEVROLET CRUZE 2.0L L4 DIESEL Turbocharged Brake Pad | RockAuto


RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.



www.rockauto.com






confirmed


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I agree with MP81 and think you have uneven pad build up on the rotor. Have you tried re-bedding the pads yet?


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

D1467 is the FMSI # or Friction Materials Standards Institute number for any given pad shape. It's the generic "blueprint" of a brake pad. If you were to look further into that number youd see that a derivative of it appears in MANY part #s, even ACDelco ones. Once you find out the FMSI # for the brake pad you're looking for it's very easy to find more pads, because the FMSI doesn't change, but parts look up catalogs limit their listings based on relevance usually. And Diesel Cruzes aren't particularly relevant.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> I agree with MP81 and think you have uneven pad build up on the rotor. Have you tried re-bedding the pads yet?


No, but I’m considering having the rotors turned and maybe slap on new pads. But at 10-20$ a rotor why not just replace the rotors at 30$ each for auto parts store rotors and maybe 50$ for gm pads.

I could try the cheap brake cleaner and bed but I doubt it.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> No, but I’m considering having the rotors turned and maybe slap on new pads. But at 10-20$ a rotor why not just replace the rotors at 30$ each for auto parts store rotors and maybe 50$ for gm pads.
> 
> I could try the cheap brake cleaner and bed but I doubt it.


No need to clean the rotors first. At least try it as it is free. Otherwise buy high carbon rotors and pads of your choice.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> No need to clean the rotors first. At least try it as it is free. Otherwise buy high carbon rotors and pads of your choice.


I wish there was good pad and rotor choices. Basically pad wise it’s OEM acdelco, parts store brand, EBC ultimax 2 UD1467. Not much else is offered. Rotor wise OEM, parts store, EBC RK7625. My plan for hawk talons that where scraped since they are only made for the gasser


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

PowerStop offers at least 3 different pad compounds , Brembo has 2, Ferodo, Pagid, Bosch, ATE.....all make pads for this car.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> PowerStop offers at least 3 different pad compounds , Brembo has 2, Ferodo, Pagid, Bosch, ATE.....all make pads for this car.


Can you drop a link? I’ve seen all those but for the smaller 1.4 not the 2.0 diesel size. I’m looking for performance pads not oem equivalent. I didn’t like the oem ceramics

Checking powerstop it seems they actually do specify the larger diesel rotors and pads. How are their products? I’ve never used them before. My experience hs been hawk,EBC, and brembo.

brembo pads are the nao series that are stock equivalent not performance pads.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I put the Z23 Evo on GM OE rotors on my brother's '01 Century last year when I did his front brakes (because of the big ZZP swaybars that are on there now), and there is noticeably more bite - similar to my Hawk HPS pads, if not a little more OE-focused. The Z26 Evo should be a step up from there, probably just like the HPS pads.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> I put the Z23 Evo on GM OE rotors on my brother's '01 Century last year when I did his front brakes (because of the big ZZP swaybars that are on there now), and there is noticeably more bite - similar to my Hawk HPS pads, if not a little more OE-focused. The Z26 Evo should be a step up from there, probably just like the HPS pads.


A step up from oem is what I’m going for. From the manufacture who make pads and rotors for the diesel it’s all basically stock set up. I think OEM rotors with the z23 pads since on their search it didn’t offer the z26. I’m not a fan of drilled rotors. I prefer slotted, hooked or dimple, so OEM blanks should do the job.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> A step up from oem is what I’m going for. From the manufacture who make pads and rotors for the diesel it’s all basically stock set up. I think OEM rotors with the z23 pads since on their search it didn’t offer the z26. I’m not a fan of drilled rotors. I prefer slotted, hooked or dimple, so OEM blanks should do the job.


Yep, I am a fan of blank rotors - definitely not drilled. I think the Z23s would be a good option - a bit more bite than factory.

But definitely on the GM OE rotors.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Yep, I am a fan of blank rotors - definitely not drilled. I think the Z23s would be a good option - a bit more bite than factory.
> 
> But definitely on the GM OE rotors.


I think this will be the end combo. Now I’m curious if adding hawk HPS 5.0 pads in the rear would be a good plan. This way I get a little more bite in the rear thus rear bias a little more. Crazy they make performance pads for the rear not the front lol.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> I think this will be the end combo. Now I’m curious if adding hawk HPS 5.0 pads in the rear would be a good plan. This way I get a little more bite in the rear thus rear bias a little more. Crazy they make performance pads for the rear not the front lol.


That is so odd...is there a Z23 pad for the rear?


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> That is so odd...is there a Z23 pad for the rear?


There are thankfully. But I’m thinking out loud, if I had a little more bite in the rear then the front should help steer the rear a little more with brakes if needed. Would be fun to try it at auto cross. Rear won’t lock up since the ABS is a good unit and quite responsive for a economical car. If the rear becomes too grabby I can always turn the rotors and go to the matching carbon ceramic rears.

especially when combined with the B14 coil overs and white line rear bar.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I think with the Whiteline rear bar you should get a fair amount of rotation (that's what I'm expecting on my Volt when I get around to installing the same bar, since apparently it fits, and I bought it during Black Friday based on that - the much larger Powell rear bar on my Cobalt is absolutely nuts, but that's 1.25") - any amount of trail braking should help with a bit of rotation due to the weight shift, and that combined with the rear bar should be exactly what you're looking for. The Z23 pads in back might be a good match for the fronts with that in mind.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> I think with the Whiteline rear bar you should get a fair amount of rotation (that's what I'm expecting on my Volt when I get around to installing the same bar, since apparently it fits, and I bought it during Black Friday based on that - the much larger Powell rear bar on my Cobalt is absolutely nuts, but that's 1.25") - any amount of trail braking should help with a bit of rotation due to the weight shift, and that combined with the rear bar should be exactly what you're looking for. The Z23 pads in back might be a good match for the fronts with that in mind.


guess marching set it is. The diesel going into a turn with the brake on ever so slightly to keep that front outside tire loaded is great fun. It just grips and rips through the corner. Crazy how so many don’t use the brakes for slight adjustments and rather like a on off light switch.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

This is painful to watch 😂

I'm not a fan of intentionally mixing friction compounds on non racecars. There's other ways to affect turn in.

Porterfeild R4S + NorrhAmerican/Euro made rotors (or high carbon Centrics)

Or the, what I though was obvious and makes me jealous option, ATS Brembos


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> This is painful to watch 😂
> 
> I'm not a fan of intentionally mixing friction compounds on non racecars. There's other ways to affect turn in.
> 
> ...


I wouldn’t mix compounds or even think of it if there where actually performance pads made. Plus what’s the harm In experimenting on a auto X track. heck hawk offers their good pads for the rear not the front lol. Ideally I’d like to give the brakes a small bit more rear bias but not exactly a option. 

I’m going to try the Z23 pads and see how they do. I’m disappointed they are still ceramic with carbon bs a full semi metallic but that’s the way it is.

I definitely would jump at the ATS brembo upgrade. Huge pads selection there. Plus those calipers look nice vs our cheap looking ones.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Porterfeild R4-S

It's not the intended form of competition, it's the fact that the car is a daily driver that would have me no mixing and matching.
Even for the simple reason that undoing the change is simple or free (replacing at resurfacing rotors and replacing pads.)

Modifying your alignment, tire pressures, ride height, front/rear weight bias, are all things you can do to change corner manners and all are either free/cheap, simple, or non permanent or all 3.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> Porterfeild R4-S
> 
> It's not the intended form of competition, it's the fact that the car is a daily driver that would have me no mixing and matching.
> Even for the simple reason that undoing the change is simple or free (replacing at resurfacing rotors and replacing pads.)
> ...


The price in those aren’t bad for the 1467. Alignment there isn’t a whole lot to do. Even in B14 with camber bolts up front I can’t play with the rear. Weight bias not too much too do without adding weight since I can’t remove a whole lot, tire pressure definitely can be tinkered with as can ride hight. Ideally once corner balanced that’s where it stays.

what better place to test and tune then the auto X track. Safe place to try odd combos not the street. Rear rotors are quite cheap to buy or turn. So far what I need is less under steer plow more so in the exit. Coming in and mid turn feels quite good but if I don’t load the front just right goes string into plow. With a bit more rear rotation with a ever so slight trail brake it should be a responsive set up.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'd love to finally see the ATS calipers on the diesel. Someone was doing it, but I don't think we ever saw the finished product...


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Yes autox is a great place to experiment .... On a race car, or if the experiments are cheap or non permanent . You are clearly different than I but i don't consider cutting or replacing rotors and replacing pads on a street car a cheap endeavour nor one I want to perform repeatedly. 

How much front toe are you running? Do you have a rear sway bar? What are your ride heights set at? 

Not getting proper weight transfer in the corner is a big reason why any car understeers. More rear brake isn't gonna make it stop pushing at corner exit. You should 100% be off the brakes at exit. Exit push is usually tire pressure/temp/alignment related, it can be cause by insufficient damper action(rebounds too fast) or it's typically an artifact from driver inputs or just the end result of some deficiency earlier in the corner.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> Yes autox is a great place to experiment .... On a race car, or if the experiments are cheap or non permanent . You are clearly different than I but i don't consider cutting or replacing rotors and replacing pads on a street car a cheap endeavour nor one I want to perform repeatedly.
> 
> How much front toe are you running? Do you have a rear sway bar? What are your ride heights set at?
> 
> Not getting proper weight transfer in the corner is a big reason why any car understeers. More rear brake isn't gonna make it stop pushing at corner exit. You should 100% be off the brakes at exit. Exit push is usually tire pressure/temp/alignment related, it can be cause by insufficient damper action(rebounds too fast) or it's typically an artifact from driver inputs or just the end result of some deficiency earlier in the corner.


I don’t remember and during the move my last alignment sheet got lost from the binder. If I recall it’s all factory spec.

Mine is at 40k so suspension is so so. Not too bouncy not new stiff. With the new bilstien and sway bar it should definitely tighten it up. My initial changes will be max out-negative camber up front ( it’s not much available so should up grip but not wear tires), I think stock toe to start, and rear well nothing can be done there ( I do wish I could go slight negative just to get the tire wear just right.

I know more brake won’t make plow go away, but it should help the attitude of the car while in turn. A little more rear bias would help rotate when I just need a little more correction. I try to use the gas and brake to help steer not just go forward and stop if that makes sense.

but anyway now that porterfield front and rear sport pads are an option then both will be on the car soon. Just got to order good rotors, think I’m going to stick to oem acdelco if not a fortune. Otherwise parts store gold rotors with lifetime.

in the meantime brake flush, rad and transmission as well. Time for amsoil to go into the slush box.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

If you're rocking stock front end alignment (and therefore toe-in) then we've definitely found at least one likely major contributor to your perceived lack of rotation and corner exit understeer.

Toe-in contributes to a cars directional stability, more toe out makes it more eager. 
Toe-in will make it more stable, less likely to rotate on turn-in.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> If you're rocking stock front end alignment (and therefore toe-in) then we've definitely found at least one likely major contributor to your perceived lack of rotation and corner exit understeer.
> 
> Toe-in contributes to a cars directional stability, more toe out makes it more eager.
> Toe-in will make it more stable, less likely to rotate on turn-in.


What kind of degrees vs stock have you found that makes it a bit more willing but not jittery?


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

pandrad61 said:


> What kind of degrees vs stock have you found that makes it a bit more willing but not jittery?


Definitely start with getting it set to zero.
From there you can experiment with it relatively easily. 

You can then experiment by moving the tie rods equal amounts on your own until you dial it in. Just turn them both the same amount and you'll maintain your steering wheel centering.

I've found that on stock width tires at stock pressures, "most" people won't find toe out objectionable till about -0.1° per side. Tires @ higher pressure, wider width and lower profile, the level of tune of your personal "internal accelerometer", will all dictate at what point past zero that you start feeling neutral, and then twitchy. 

You can also just start from where you are now (though zero toe is a better place and I feel you'll prefer it to stock, but requires getting an alignment) turn the tie rods equal but opposite amounts to adjust toe but retain steering wheel position.(assuming you have standard thread tie rods)


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Just don't do 3 degrees of toe-out. The turn in is _incredible_, but it's absolutely terrifying at anything above 40 mph.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Just don't do 3 degrees of toe-out. The turn in is _incredible_, but it's absolutely terrifying at anything above 40 mph.


I’d rather not have my Cruze as twitchy as a meth head on day 3 of detox lol.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> Definitely start with getting it set to zero.
> From there you can experiment with it relatively easily.
> 
> You can then experiment by moving the tie rods equal amounts on your own until you dial it in. Just turn them both the same amount and you'll maintain your steering wheel centering.
> ...


I’m running BFG gforce sport comp 2 as tires in stock size and maybe 5 psi higher then door plate. So basically align toe to absolutely zero, no toe in or out?


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> I’d rather not have my Cruze as twitchy as a meth head on day 3 of detox lol.


It was scary as **** when that "happened" to my Cavalier. I had just replaced the subframe (as it had cracked 360 degrees between the front and rear mounting points of the right control arm, and shoved the tire into the back of the right wheel well - the driving characteristics before it did that were equally as scary sounding as that - as it would shift gears, you would have to turn the wheel more and more to one direction, and then once it did the final shift/TC lockup you went all the way _back the other way_), and the control arms with it, so the alignment was all sorts of screwed up. 

I took it out for its first drive, and unless you kept the wheel perfectly straight (impossible) above 40, the car would wander violently. I finished it the night before we were supposed to head down to my mom's to pick up a rental car (and leave the Cavalier at her house) to drive down to NC (the rental car was intentionally a Cruze - a gasser - for us to essentially test drive prior to getting the upcoming diesel), but there was no way in hell I was driving it the hour...on the freeway...down to my mom's. We ended up cramming the Cobalt full (the subs in the trunk made that much more work) and taking that instead.

Even driving the car to go get an alignment was absolutely terrifying. 

The Camaro ended up with a similar condition after I upgraded all of the suspension and replaced all the steering linkage. I thought I got it pretty good for an eyeball...but apparently I ended up with toe-out. My brother and I went out for a test drive the night I got it back together - which was the morning before the annual Camaro/Firebird car show - and it was even scarier than the Cavalier...because it also had a rag joint that you could twist back and forth by hand...something I was unaware of until that point. You basically couldn't even drive it straight because of the toe-out mixed with 30 degrees of play each way off center. Horrifying. It was parked for the show and I took the Cobalt. It also was cold and rainy the whole show, so it wasn't a major loss.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> It was scary as **** when that "happened" to my Cavalier. I had just replaced the subframe (as it had cracked 360 degrees between the front and rear mounting points of the right control arm, and shoved the tire into the back of the right wheel well - the driving characteristics before it did that were equally as scary sounding as that - as it would shift gears, you would have to turn the wheel more and more to one direction, and then once it did the final shift/TC lockup you went all the way _back the other way_), and the control arms with it, so the alignment was all sorts of screwed up.
> 
> I took it out for its first drive, and unless you kept the wheel perfectly straight (impossible) above 40, the car would wander violently. I finished it the night before we were supposed to head down to my mom's to pick up a rental car (and leave the Cavalier at her house) to drive down to NC (the rental car was intentionally a Cruze - a gasser - for us to essentially test drive prior to getting the upcoming diesel), but there was no way in hell I was driving it the hour...on the freeway...down to my mom's. We ended up cramming the Cobalt full (the subs in the trunk made that much more work) and taking that instead.
> 
> ...


Now that’s a story. One of the reasons I don’t do much wrenching anymore. Especially with alignment.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

A buddy of mine's dad owns a shop (that does all sorts of work on mainly old Corvettes, but also some other old, really cool stuff) about half an hour away that has an alignment rack, so he always handles alignments for me anymore (and I get to wander around and look at all the cars they've got in the shop).


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> A buddy of mine's dad owns a shop (that does all sorts of work on mainly old Corvettes, but also some other old, really cool stuff) about half an hour away that has an alignment rack, so he always handles alignments for me anymore (and I get to wander around and look at all the cars they've got in the shop).


Here in Florida I haven’t found a shop that I Can trust for the coil over install, plus the corner balance. I have one in mind but I’m still looking into them. Thing is I need a real race shop who knows how to put bilstien in proper


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

pandrad61 said:


> I’m running BFG gforce sport comp 2 as tires in stock size and maybe 5 psi higher then door plate. So basically align toe to absolutely zero, no toe in or out?


Yeah toe set to zero, no positive or negative no toe in or out.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

So with the minor warp would it really be all that and to wait maybe another month or two to get them done? Probably take a week for the pads to arrive, rotors maybe same day. This month is busy so end of month would be earliest I can do it.


----------



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Brake pulsations very rarely cause any other issues, especially not minor pulsations.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yeah, at that point they're more of just an annoyance.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Cool off for another month or two then.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yeah, gives you time to gather the parts and plan your timing out.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Yeah, gives you time to gather the parts and plan your timing out.


Front pads 80$ rear 100$, rotors will have to be from rock auto cause I don’t get shop cost anymore. Orilies wants 90$ each for the front. At that cost may as well get them from dealer.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Looks like the fronts (GM OE) went up in cost a little since when I did them in October of 2019.


----------



## Striper1 (May 7, 2020)

I recently did my front brakes since I knew they were quite worn and were warped too. I have a 2015 LTZ. I bought Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors along with pads from Amazon. This car has never stopped this nicely and real quickly when I need to. The car seems to drive better too, it's just a very subtle feeling but it feels better and even smoother. I highly recommend these brake parts if you need them. I painted my calipers red while I was at it. I don't really need the rears but I'll probably do the rears soon anyway so they all match. Has anyone ever put spacers on with the LTZ 18" wheels. Been thinking about it purely for cosmetic reasons and any possibility of minor handling improvement from a wider track. Also, does anyone make anti-sway bars for these cars or some better shocks, I need to do the rears.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

Striper1 said:


> I recently did my front brakes since I knew they were quite worn and were warped too. I have a 2015 LTZ. I bought Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors along with pads from Amazon. This car has never stopped this nicely and real quickly when I need to. The car seems to drive better too, it's just a very subtle feeling but it feels better and even smoother. I highly recommend these brake parts if you need them. I painted my calipers red while I was at it. I don't really need the rears but I'll probably do the rears soon anyway so they all match. Has anyone ever put spacers on with the LTZ 18" wheels. Been thinking about it purely for cosmetic reasons and any possibility of minor handling improvement from a wider track. Also, does anyone make anti-sway bars for these cars or some better shocks, I need to do the rears.


You have the gas Cruze that’s has VAST brake options. This is the diesel thread. Our diesel brakes are stronger and bigger but a odd size so hawk,EBC and other hardly make anything other then OEM spec rotors and pads. White line makes a rear sway bar and bilstien makes shocks that are oem upgrade, then HD/ dropped cars, then coil overs the B14 kit. I have the B14 coil overs ready to do and a white line rear sway bar.

please check the suspension gen 1 section vs this diesel specific thread. Lots of info you want is on there, included in the sticky and FAQ


----------

