# Faster Warmup in Winter



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

So, I have been driving my car in manual mode. Kinda gentle but keeping it around 3000 RPMs until gauge gets off the mark (usually a couple miles) then hitting it a bit harder after that. I was able to get to full operating temp in about 7 minutes in 8F temp. SOme may argue that 3K RPMS isn't good on a relatively cold engine, but I think if you don't really hammer it, there's enough oil circulating to keep the turbo happy. I think it's much worse to drive all winter and never hit operating temp with all the acids and moisture that will inevitably form inside the crankcase and never burn off. Just my 2 cents - thoughts?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I don't take my ECO MT above 1500 RPM for the first half mile and 2000 RPM for the next 9 miles of my morning commute and it's at operating temperature by the time I've driven 4 to 5 miles.

I know this is the Diesel forum but my question is does the CDT warm up so slowly that you need to run at 3000 RPM to warm up the car? Trying to learn more about the operational differences between the ECO MT and the CDT.


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## VtTD (Nov 5, 2013)

diesel said:


> So, I have been driving my car in manual mode. Kinda gentle but keeping it around 3000 RPMs until gauge gets off the mark (usually a couple miles) then hitting it a bit harder after that. I was able to get to full operating temp in about 7 minutes in 8F temp. SOme may argue that 3K RPMS isn't good on a relatively cold engine, but I think if you don't really hammer it, there's enough oil circulating to keep the turbo happy. I think it's much worse to drive all winter and never hit operating temp with all the acids and moisture that will inevitably form inside the crankcase and never burn off. Just my 2 cents - thoughts?


I was wondering the same thing. I do this on some 0'ish or colder times, but I usually keep it to between 2000 and 2500. I figured max at 2500 because the auto usually switches gears when cold by around then if I am not really hammering on the gas. Haven't gotten a good grasp on if it is saving some fuel in the long run by warming it up quicker or burning too much more initially to make it worth it.


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## Garandman (Dec 31, 2013)

Can the engine oil heater (or is it a block heater) be easily retrofit after purchase by the dealer?


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## PanJet (Jun 18, 2013)

Garandman said:


> Can the engine oil heater (or is it a block heater) be easily retrofit after purchase by the dealer?


The factory option is an oil pan heater. It will help, but mostly in terms of getting warmer oil flowing through your engine quicker. 

There are lots of aftermarket ones available at most any auto parts store. Some of them are magnetic and others use an adhesive to attach to your oil pan. I've never used an aftermarket one nor know anyone that has, so I can't vouch for their utility or reliability, but I know they exist.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

If frostheater ever makes a model for our car Ill be the first one in line. It's so good some dealers install them on vw's new at the dealership. Google is your friend on this one...


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

This should apply to Diesels as well - http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/113-titan-synthetics/43417-cruze-taking-too-long-warm-up-winter.html


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

If I drive gently (which is what most people probably consider driving normally) it will not reach operating temp on my way to work in the morning, even if it's near 30 degrees out.


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