# Cruising 12's, black pearl



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> Mechanically I need to take a look at the drums brakes and have new pads and drums if needed,


How to Adjust Rear Drum Brakes 



Cruzing12 said:


> I think the battery is getting to end of life,


Both positive and negative _battery cables_ at the battery are torqued to *40 in-lbs*
The_ battery plate nuts_ are torqued to *106 in-lbs*
and the b_attery hold down_ arm is torqued to* 80 in-lbs* 
Service Bulletin - NHTSA SB-10057574-8899
SB-10089945-2280
*How-To: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit*
Clean the Terminals
Cruze Battery Upgrade Options



Cruzing12 said:


> and the timing belt is coming due.


How-To: Timing Belt 1.8L and 1.6L



Cruzing12 said:


> I also need to fix the gear for the heat mode actuator door for defrost.


No air from vents!
Wont kick into Defrost


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Did a 1800km trip over the weekend and had the service traction control message pop up some 1000km into it. Stopped off the road for a visual and feel to find the front right rim was warm leading me to believe the brake assembly is sticky and is actually what's causing the brakes to grind like they're canning over... I say canning over as the pads and rotors on the front were new when I bought the car 15k km ago, also explains the warped feel during spirited braking from high speeds. 

Hoping the sticky assembly is the issue causing the abs/traction systems to kick off. When it kicked off I was on the highway and had double clutched from 6th to 3rd at 120km/h and eased into wot, don't know if I hit a strip of ice or it was after I had shifted into fourth that the rpms spiked some 1500 and the abs/traction kicked off. But the clutch has been solid otherwise so don't know, I'll report back when I figure it out. 

On the other hand I made up a parts order. Got new slide pins an boots for the front calipers, new spark plugs an boots, and, a timing belt. 

Might see about servicing the car this weekend, good excuse for a brake fluid flush too as I'll be in all 4 corners for the brakes.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> Did a 1800km trip over the weekend and had the service traction control message pop up some 1000km into it. Stopped off the road for a visual and feel to find the front right rim was warm leading me to believe the brake assembly is sticky and is actually what's causing the brakes to grind like they're canning over... I say canning over as the pads and rotors on the front were new when I bought the car 15k km ago, also explains the warped feel during spirited braking from high speeds.
> 
> Hoping the sticky assembly is the issue causing the abs/traction systems to kick off. When it kicked off I was on the highway and had double clutched from 6th to 3rd at 120km/h and eased into wot, don't know if I hit a strip of ice or it was after I had shifted into fourth that the rpms spiked some 1500 and the abs/traction kicked off. But the clutch has been solid otherwise so don't know, I'll report back when I figure it out.
> 
> ...


How-To: Replace Front Brake Pads & Rotors
DIY Flush Brake Fluid
AMSOIL Products for the 2011-2015, 2016 Limited Gen1 Cruze
Plugs/coil


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

It's the wheel bearing that has gone out on it, just started to notice a notchyness while turning today.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

First off I forgot a pic of the drum off, and to my surprise the pads are hardly worn. Put about 10 and 14 clicks into the right, an left side. Brakes feel is much better and my parking brake is back to an acceptable height. I'll be revisiting the rear again as I need to grind the drums down so I can get the pads tighter.

Wheel bearings are on order.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

I got moog replacements. And had the pleasure of changing out both front hubs, and man I had to get a oxy torch to get the knuckles hot enought to let go, about 8 years of salt holding it all in. Also had the pleasure of assembling the car in a snow storm.









Good ol outdoors.



Good news no more brake noises, and the front feel like they glide better. Only thing now is getting to the issue of the abs system. It's going as far as illuminating the parking break light with alarm. I'm not sure what's up there all wheels are free and breaking is fine, and the sensors didn't look damaged.










Next issue after abs is going to be the top valve cover the seal is leaking at the upper most bolt to the left of the dip stick and is making quight the stink in the cabin.

Couple more months and I'll be able to paint, I've been pondering the pearl, as well as, titanium silver, raspberry, or winter grey.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Patiently waiting for spring to paint. I want to taper the top out across the lip of the hood.

Changed the spark plugs out and the engine feels crisp, found both sides of the valve gasket are leaking. Did a fluid check and found the coolant reservoir near empty with oil in it, also noticed a coolant leak twords the rear of the engine bay.

Spring time I'll be taking the head off and getting the gaskets changed.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Did another 900km round trip throught the country mostly overnight in a snow storm. Had fun, exercised my hand brake in some empty parking lots. and enjoyed sliding on the back roads too. Also exercised my snow shoveling capabilities with my car shovel. 

First beaching I needed the shovel for. there were a series of 90 bends that went on forever as the road conformed to the lake front. Just had to try and touch the corner on my way by one bend and ended up getting sucked into the snow bank as my rear end came round, not bad quick shovel and I'm out n rolling 10 minutes

Second time that trip there was a blind corner overlooking a downtown core in a valley. Naturally assuming the road would of continued, but nope. I was thankfully slowing down for the veiw but once the decent started there was no making the turn. Lodged the car up a bank of plowed snow. Shoveled forever on that one, got to a point the tires were bout 4" off the ground. Eventually lost my shovel trying to get the snow out from under the engine and melted the shovel on the exhaust as the car dropped down. Another thankfully I was able to get out after a little more hand digging. But left some pieces of bumper behind, tore the bottom lip off and ejected the marker light.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Got some time to add tape to the design. Still not 100% on it as the transition 'swoop' from the top point to the out side of the light doesn't look natural yet, and still undecided on wether to go with the pearl or titanium silver paint.

In other news I ordered up a top end gasket kit and bolts to do the head gasket, and new coolant reservoir tank( mine is oil brown now). And am saturating the exhaust manifold bolts everytime I get home for the day so they'll hopefully come off easy

I'm possibly looking at picking up new door speakers as I see a good component kit on sale ( speakers and tweeters) get me some better speakers so I can get more bass out of the subwoofer. As after 30 on the stock head unit there's no real increase in loudness just crystalie ear rape.









Best setup so far, subwoofer back as far as it'll go, when the bass hits you can just feel air moving around your head.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Picked up these passive component speakers for the front doors. And...











Committed to going the visible speaker route, just unsure to remove the whole bezel as the speaker hole is offset to the outside ring. I'm fabing up MDF bezels in my spare time so have the option. As for the out side rings I plan to paint them pearl...

I went and had a look at paint colors and it came down to Ford's oxford white, GM's ultra metallic silver, and Toyota's pearl. Matching them up to the spiral metallic grey the pearl looked the best out of the three, so pearl it is.


I tried getting to the head gasket this weekend but not enough time for what I want to do.

The to do list.

Head gasket
Timing belt
Any leaking head seals/ new intake, valve cover, and exhaust seals
Change PVC valve (SKP Replacement)
Clean up grounds, alternator, starter,/ desalinate the engine bay, change out hose clamps for new SS.
Run 4awg wire from alternator to fuse block
Replace the coolant tank
Change oil n filter

Exhausting just writing the list lol. And if I get that all done and have time I get to,


Replace the rear drums
Flush the brake fluid.
Bleed the clutch fluid.


For something fun Im just theoretically thinking about a in engine bay slow cooker... of sorts. There is a constant flow of coolant going throught the throttle body back to the "reservoir." So one could make a re route to a pod and make a "hot pot" for cooking using the cars heat via a coil of tubing wrapped and insulated around something. I sometimes get carried away and go out for 1000km day tours, and am also thinking about modding my car for camping so it'd be awesome to have that ability with a turn of a couple valves.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Oh dear,

I had fun changing the head gasket this week. Did the gasket, oil cooler, intake an exhaust seals, cleaned the power and ground connections to the starter and alternator, added the 4awg power wire, and finished with a new valve cover seal and pcv valve... 










A bit of burnt oil on the timing area? 










Hit up everything with a razor blade then wet sanded with 400 grit sand paper




























New timing belt. it was rather pretty satisfying changing the belt. I timed the engine and sharpied on some carry over marks. If you don't use the locking tools for this here 1.8l the exhaust cam will rotate slightly. easy enought to man handle it into time when sliding the belt on.


the valve of which I messed up on the install and ended up burning 1.5L of oil when I went out for a jaunt after work. There was a bit of lugging around 3500-4000rpm by 5000rpm I was laying down a massive oil cloud, Culprit? When you slide the valve in you have to get a thin sheet of plastic to cover the hole in the valve cover so the seal doesn't get pinched. Once in pull the plastic out and enjoy life instead of killing people with giant smog clouds on a windless morning lol.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Have to use a heat gun to make sure the plastic doesn't snap on the valve cover. Use a slot screw driver to bend the clip back then take a exacto knife and cut off the tabs of the pcv valve.




































And this is what happens when you don't use the plastic trick. The seal got stuck and knicked. Causing a huge leak.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Mmmkay got a buddy to run the obd codes for the CEL and I got a,

p2070- intake baffle actuator mabober
C0800-03- low voltage bcm, sounds like my battery.
C0045, 18 throught C0050,18- all 4 wheel speed sensors coming up shot.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Something to do with the battery...









Yeah the fuse box ground that bolts on to the strap was corroded so bad it had pretty much no contact. 









I'm guessing this here battery is original? It's an ac delco, no date sticker. New battery is a Interstate mtx H7 AGM. It's a beast and rightfully so makes the car start hesitation free. That and the subs hit a bit harder too so all round win as I plan to do camping and use the battery to run camp accessories.









And it nestled into the tray. Cleaned the ground strap and grounds at the frame with a wire wheel and some sand paper. Wiped on a light film of dielectric grease and torqued everything down. Then masked behind the connections and sprayed on a coating of white lithium grease. 

Electrically speaking I still have to hook up that power wire from the alternator, and get a battery terminal so I can replace the factory ground strap with a 4wg return.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

And I'm getting closer. I went to the shop looking for a component set on sale, and they didn't have it. So buddy sold me these guys for the same price. They're JL C1 650s decent set and clear highs. Right now I just got this fabbed in spot and hooked up. Got to do the other door yet too, then the rear doors.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Got the passenger speaker swapped out. I tried my best to copy the holes from one bezel to the other but failed so the speaker is sitting a little low in the door. 

As for the sound, it's amazing. Like getting a sub woofer and hearing all those lows, but now it's the highs... a whole package.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Hmmm I wonder if the tire's sidewall is okay. There seems to only have a visible rub mark / crease on the inside sidewall from the distance I drove to get off the road.

And yeah I messed up. Going down a twisty gravel road I came into a decending right hand turn to tight and tried using the low shoulder to save the turn. It went fine until the rear came out a little faster than I was hoping for. Leading the right hand wheel to pull me down into the ditch/wash out area. First bounce was a little crazy as the car had this I'm going to roll feeling, second bounce leveled it out and I rolled out on to the road, but girl got pretty beat up. 

Blew the radiator supports clean off so the rad pack is just sitting there, and maybe broke the fan support too. Cracked more of the bumper, and the wheel.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Not looking good. All 4 mounts broke holding the radiator, good news is it got me too and from work for just over a week like this.









The mounts seemed to be brittle from years of salt as the backs were broke none the less...









I got them on with a little fuss...harder putting the bumper back on than anything 









New rims up front, with a new tire on the front left. Funny thing is the old guy at the rim shop couldn't start my car lol. I was out walking around and was in the right place right time to witness the shop hand investigating my car just as the old guy opens the door to get out, and I asked him if the melenial anti theft device is getting to em, lol. (Because it's a manual.) Old guy comes out matching my comment saying I can drive it in too. Lol.









Plans to go white wall. And paint the rotors and calipers.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Next coming project is going to be the brakes again. With the new rims I want to paint the caliper and exposed surfaces of the rotors white along with painting the rear drums white. I want to experiment with diy'ing in rim signal / brake lights. That and see bout drilling adjuster acess holes in the drum face so I can use the rear pads, that I blindly got, before the car gives the ghost.

Also need all 4 wheel position sensors as none are showing a resistance. Which gives me good acess to the grommet behind the wheel well liner to run the power wires for said LEDs. Just have to figure out the circuitry to have that option as I'd plan on a constant fixed color that either goes out and blinks orange for the front signal, or illuminates to red upon braking.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Wheel position sensors are ordered. And I caused myself a headache when I did the head job... ended up having the wire loom for the alternator return droop down into the way of the air manifold's servo arm and popped the linkage off.
( or so I thought I did, turns out the ball and socket is so worn out it just slid back in and hasn't come out yet)











Another idea I have coming is making some pvc rings for the rear tires...


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> About a foot long piece of hose, and a old outlet power supply as a pet **** turning tool.



Can you further talk about this?


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Can you further talk about this?


Sure, was wanting to flush the car's coolant after buying it and didn't want to Jack it up. So I got a tub and a short 3/8" ID section of tubing. Put the tubing up through the square mesh and pushed the end onto the petcock. Then I fashioned a old USB/ receptical power supply as a turn tool, utilizing the prongs to open the petcock.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Eww. The strap was giving up to corrosion. So time to get off my butt and finish the task.










Here we have a 4awg positive wire, and two 4awg ground straps. One to the chassis the other to the head.










As clean as I could get it.










On a side note I disconnected the power lead to the steering rack and am liking it thus far. Voltage is down to 13.6v while cruising. And feeling is good through the turns like it's a road rod lol. Actually finished up a 300km journey and no real fatigue.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Wow 2 months. Hooked the power steering back up. Got an alignment. No more notchy steering.

Had starting issues, turned out the crimp connection connecting to the starter solinoid was nothing but copper oxide.

Flushed the brake fluid... reminded me of dark maple syrup. Adjusted the rear drums and retracted the parking brake cable. Got the hand brake to hold the car by 4 clicks now. And brake feel is more responsive. 

Got around to changing out the rear wheel speed sensors and have yet to do the fronts. The "service stabilitrack, service traction control" are still going. When I had a buddy check with a obd tool it showed 3 of 4 sensors dead. 

Also took the time to paint the caliper arms white. Not sure if I want to do the caliper white too.



























And lastly I think the one tire's belt has gone. Inflated to 35 it runs smooth once it deflates a bit it shimmies.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Have my design done just need to paint it.









And another pic of new rims.


I'm going to try and get the car into camper mode. Aswell I'm considering adding a power inverter for those off the road days. With having the amplifier in the back theres already the power there, so might mount it under the rear deck. For in the car, and out the trunk access.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> Next coming project is going to be the brakes again. With the new rims I want to paint the caliper and exposed surfaces of the rotors white along with painting the rear drums white. I want to experiment with diy'ing in rim signal / brake lights. That and see bout drilling adjuster acess holes in the drum face so I can use the rear pads, that I blindly got, before the car gives the ghost.
> 
> Also need all 4 wheel position sensors as none are showing a resistance. Which gives me good acess to the grommet behind the wheel well liner to run the power wires for said LEDs. Just have to figure out the circuitry to have that option as I'd plan on a constant fixed color that either goes out and blinks orange for the front signal, or illuminates to red upon braking.


I went back through the entire thread looking for where you spoke about these LEDs with no luck.. Can you clarify what it is you are wanting to do?


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> I went back through the entire thread looking for where you spoke about these LEDs with no luck.. Can you clarify what it is you are wanting to do?


I'm only thinking about it at this point... but what I was anticipating was using some 12v led strip lights of one's color choosing. Then affixing them to the heat shield or making a ring, to avoid heat issues, to affix the LEDs to the shields. 

In theory the led strips would point out facing the rim and the rim itself would reflect the light outward.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

(A 48 pop can format cooler, camp stove, socket kit. Under the glove box, sleeping bag, air mattress, 12" cast iron and some kitchen stuff/watter.)









1000w inverter.

Still have to rework the wood frame, but pretty much as is with the exception of the inverter being mounted on a cross member behind the tool box. Under that room for a second 80ah battery.... Will do a better post when I have it done.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzing12 said:


> I'm only thinking about it at this point... but what I was anticipating was using some 12v led strip lights of one's color choosing. Then affixing them to the heat shield or making a ring, to avoid heat issues, to affix the LEDs to the shields.
> 
> In theory the led strips would point out facing the rim and the rim itself would reflect the light outward.


For what purpose? Just to make the rims stand out?


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> For what purpose? Just to make the rims stand out?


Under glow but rim glow. Lol for no other reason other than the ooh, awhhhh


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

So here is the table in its almost final form. I used scavenged wood from work for the whole thing, and despite building it in place, I'm able to take it out with no more difficulty than lifting the passenger seat out. And I got diffrent bolts so it even stays in place using the chair's mounting point.











Also did a camping trip.








And the table proved valuable... as a table lol. Was able to pack in so much stuff using the table. Definitely had an intresting time with the added weight, brought my bike, subwoofer and enough wood for a good fire every night aswell. Car needed about a good 1000rpm more to keep pace. 

Which made for fun when a empty bin truck decided he belonged in the fast lane during rush hour. I kept my distance knowing what was going to go down in front of me, as the traffic would ebb an flow. Problem, flow would go to highway speed and ebb, would be a stand still. So as predicted this empty bin truck locked it up and slid just that smidge. Firm on the breaks I already had my exit planned and took the shoulder. 

Fun fun merged back in and continued on my way.


----------



## 15CruzeTD (Oct 23, 2019)

Cruzing12 said:


> View attachment 294344
> 
> 
> So here is the table in its almost final form. I used scavenged wood from work for the whole thing, and despite building it in place, I'm able to take it out with no more difficulty than lifting the passenger seat out. And I got diffrent bolts so it even stays in place using the chair's mounting point.
> ...


Awesome! Just curious, how do you haul your bike?


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

15CruzeTD said:


> Awesome! Just curious, how do you haul your bike?


When I don't have the dual sub box in the trunk I take the front wheel off and load the rear first into the trunk.

In the case of having the sub in I take off both wheels and seat and load the bike in through the side laying the wheels on top.


Next year I'd like to fashion a mount using some canoe foam blocks and straps. Have the handle bars on the trunk and rear wheel on the roof.


----------



## 15CruzeTD (Oct 23, 2019)

Cruzing12 said:


> When I don't have the dual sub box in the trunk I take the front wheel off and load the rear first into the trunk.
> 
> In the case of having the sub in I take off both wheels and seat and load the bike in through the side laying the wheels on top.
> 
> ...


What you need is a roof rack. Put your bike up there along with some other stuff then your car wouldn't be so full!


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Finally getting to the paint job side of things. And am going the long way around. Have a lot of stone chips so I spared nothing. 










Lots of those size chips.










And am going to finish it like here. Pearl white, eventually polish the head light lense and follow up with a protective wrap/ paint the portion taped pearl too.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Add a hitch and a hitch mounted bike rack.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Step by step lol don't have much time to do it all.










And I got a door handle done. I took the time to sand the inside seam away during my prep work. And painted Pearl from top wrapped around the inside to the bottom. One of those up close details I'll get to enjoy every time I look in the mirror, as it really isn't visible from 6ft... maybe once I polish and wax the body it'll reflect more but no hopes there.


On another note I think I found my acces point in the fire wall, the dead space on the transmission shift linkage grommet is just that, potential space. As I'm thinking of that 1500w inverter I have to upgrade my 4awg and run a negative back through to the battery. So that's alot diameters to put through the fire wall.


On a side note my car is up to 345k km/ 214k miles. Still runs smooth.
Future to dos in no order.

Clean up under carriage rust.
Replace rear hubs
Drill acess hole in drum face for easy drum adjustments.
Free up parking brake cables, one is stuck, easy enough to pull free by hand.
Fix my p2070 code, the imt valve is working so I'm not sure if it's the sensor or what, but no tc or abs till that cel less problem is fixed.
Secure the wire harness below the imtv so there isnt interference.
Replace transmission output seals/ new tranny fluid. At 40k of the 50k km interval.
The most pressing, crimping the starter solinoid wire to the connector so I'm not diving into the engine bay while at the grocery store.... although I was able to clutch start it by the grace of god but that usually doesn't happen due to how the car is programmed.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Wow a month... 

#8 got taken care of, the solinoid wire had a black streak of corrosion in it. So I did the best I could and stuck the wire in the dielectric grease tube before crimping.

#6 it turned out I tightened the starter's starter to chassis ground strap in to high a position that it interfered with the intake manifold tuning valve linkage...a simple fix.

#5 I got the Ebay linkage to try and deal with the p2070 code and am yet to install. As I'll have to remove the intake to acess what I need.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Got my design down pat, the lip above the head light. Although I ruined the curve by lifting the black paint off removing the masking tape. So I'll have to redo that section of paint before making it white.

Got my window vents on too. Got the putco brand off rock auto. Close up they have close to the same lip as the front hood so may at one point visit having the pearl streak on em too.

As for painting.... boo. It is the time of year when temps are low. So I'll have to make an enclosure, get a hot jug of water to keep the paint cans warm. And work some other powers of magic.










Not sure if I posted this but this is the rear design.


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

And last post.

Last week I inspected my plugs, all 4 showing the same story








In the 20k km each plug came lose. So tightened each to 20ft/lb.


Couple hundred km later

Was inspecting things during a oil change and seen the maf had a good stack of dust on it.... cleaned it, installed it, started it. And the car ran like ****.

Was all oh maf sensor I killed it. So I parts cannoned it lol. Got a new sensor. car ran a smidge better but still no. Finally break down and get a code reader. And it's a #3 missfire.
Do the plug switch and nada. Order up a coil pack... and its 3days longer once shipped. So go to the parts store and buy one. Back to puring like a kitten.

Also my ac went out on me, a result of that ditch jump a while ago. I take the fuse out for the ac compressor clutch and what do you know the engine idle went from rough like usually was since before the ditch jump and now runs so steady you hardly feel any vibration.


Codes from the code reader are currently the

P2070
U0100-71 ( lost communication with ecm)
C0045-5A (left rear wheel speed sensor circut, not plausible)
Least it's just a couple


----------



## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Changed the parking break cables out and man what a dream being able to use the parking break... Then like a week later..



the car bit the dust, I was traveling along minding my business and hit a sucker patch of snow, car veared into oncoming and upon trying to recover the rear end came around and off into the ditch. Would of been a smooth landing but the way I slide off the road at a steep angle the car dug into the ditch snow and rolled into a snow covered feild possibly 3x over.

It was soft for myself, but unfortunately for the car it was brutal, rolling all on the front end. Roof caved in on the initial flip, along with the front driver's door, driver's fender and hood crumpled. Front and rear driver side wheels were cambered out, but everything not mentioned was fine from the rear back... Still had the passenger side mirror and if not for the roof the passenger door glass would of been good too.

None the less it's totaled out, got everything out but the fancy 2 way speakers, and am picking up another car exactly the same, Sept for gold bowties instead of the black.... Car looks well un maintained, but at 147,000km should have lots of life in it.

Will have to do the oil cooler asap as the seals are shot, but for the limited test drive I did it operated normally.


----------

