# Sticky  MDF Speaker Baffle



## renaku4 (Feb 13, 2016)

Count me in as well, for both the speaker baffles and big 3 Kit. I just sent you a pm on the other thread and this thread popped up a second later.

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## JerryGash (May 5, 2017)

I'll need the big 3 upgrade as well. 

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## Al3e925 (Jul 27, 2016)

Neat! Plastic door panel and speaker don't interfere with each other? Any good pn for the 3"deep speakers? I'm wanting to upgrade from the oem speakers soon

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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Please add me to the list for both the baffles and the big 3 kit. I need to finally get my Silver Flute / Vifa combo installed. I believe the Silver Flutes are 6.5", but I am sure you already have the dimensions for those.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Al3e925 said:


> Neat! Plastic door panel and speaker don't interfere with each other? Any good pn for the 3"deep speakers? I'm wanting to upgrade from the oem speakers soon
> 
> Sent from my SM-G530P using Tapatalk


Start here, and read the first two pages:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/11204-sq-car-audio-thread-v2.html


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

How many people do you need to do the group buy? I'm in no rush, just curious.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

dhpnet said:


> How many people do you need to do the group buy? I'm in no rush, just curious.


It was more to gauge how many I have to make. I'll probably end up making 10 pairs based on how many people want some this time. I'll get started next week once the weather isn't in the low 90s anymore.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Are these baffles needed to mount the Silver Flutes? And are the Silver Flutes in stock anywhere? They seem to be out.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

ChevyGuy said:


> Are these baffles needed to mount the Silver Flutes? And are the Silver Flutes in stock anywhere? They seem to be out.


They're the best way I know to mount the silver flutes, since the cutout diameter is a bit larger than most 6.5" drivers. Silver flutes will be back in stock shortly. Someone had e-mailed them and said last week that the shipment just left for the Madisound warehouse, so they'll get them in any day now.


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## Nightmistx22 (Mar 30, 2017)

I have emailed Madisound and their response indicated they should be in stock late next week. 


Fingers crossed.


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## flex014 (Jun 14, 2017)

Is it too late to get in on this? I plan on getting 2 of your recommended Dayton RS180-4's for my front doors.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

flex014 said:


> Is it too late to get in on this? I plan on getting 2 of your recommended Dayton RS180-4's for my front doors.


I'll add you to the list.


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## flex014 (Jun 14, 2017)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I'll add you to the list.


I'll take a big 3 kit as well


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Hey guys, I'm still making these. Just had a few delays trying to get room in the garage. They're coming soon.


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## Nightmistx22 (Mar 30, 2017)

Thanks for the update. Thought I might have to harass you again. :tongue:


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## 1988gmc355 (Jul 20, 2016)

Do you think you will get another group going end of year or next? I would be interested and a big 3, just have house repairs at the moment and other stuff earlier in the year I had to pay for, plus I will be ordering Amsoil stuff in a couple weeks lol


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

1988gmc355 said:


> Do you think you will get another group going end of year or next? I would be interested and a big 3, just have house repairs at the moment and other stuff earlier in the year I had to pay for, plus I will be ordering Amsoil stuff in a couple weeks lol


I have orders for 7 baffles and will make a batch of 10, so I'll have 3 pairs in case anyone else needs them before the next batch. 

I should be able to put something together for you later in the year. 

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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'm assuming these won't stop the **** door panel itself (or parts on it) from rattling with the stock speakers? 

Ours has started doing that, and it's pretty annoying. I'm plenty happy with the stock Pioneer speakers for the time being, but not rattles (especially the fronts, since they seem to move a fair amount of air).


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## grtpumpkin (Nov 25, 2016)

Build status update???


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

In progress! Cleaned the garage out the other day and I have several outer cuts made. Working on them this week. 

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## grtpumpkin (Nov 25, 2016)

Nice! :th_dblthumb2:


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## Nightmistx22 (Mar 30, 2017)

Hurray!!! :go::wavetowel2::grin:


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## grtpumpkin (Nov 25, 2016)

As I get closer to starting my SQ build, baffles are now the last item in the making, I picked up an Alpine 8" type R dual voice coil sub in a ported enclosure, Model SBR-S8-4. Went with this as I read good things about it. I was a little hesitant on this as it is ported but I do not have the means or time to construct my own box. I think the port can be closed off if desired. I'm looking for good clean accurate sound. Not looking to pound my sheetmetal & glass. I have no experience with subwoofers so this will be a first for me.
Info on the sub can be found here. 
Alpine 

Looking for recommendations on a good quality monoblock Amp to drive this thing without breaking the bank. I welcome feedback, both good & bad, on this subject.

R_


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## Nightmistx22 (Mar 30, 2017)

grtpumpkin said:


> As I get closer to starting my SQ build, baffles are now the last item in the making, I picked up an Alpine 8" type R dual voice coil sub in a ported enclosure, Model SBR-S8-4. Went with this as I read good things about it. I was a little hesitant on this as it is ported but I do not have the means or time to construct my own box. I think the port can be closed off if desired. I'm looking for good clean accurate sound. Not looking to pound my sheetmetal & glass. I have no experience with subwoofers so this will be a first for me.
> Info on the sub can be found here.
> Alpine
> 
> ...


The one thing that most car audio manufacturers (CAM) do not include is a frequency response graph. This will show how the driver performs at a given frequency. A lot of box sub CAM combos are one note wonders, they play very loud at a specific frequency but not at another that they are supposed to play within in their frequency band. Closing the port might fix some of this depending on how it's tuned. 

Don't get me wrong they could have actually taken the time and built something pretty awesome. It's the lack of documentation to back up their designs that I'm harping on. All the drivers on parts express and other similar sites have documentation that includes Thiele Small parameters and frequency response graphs. XR does an excellent job of explaining these things here. 

As for monoblocks. I have a Power Acoustik BAMF 2000/1D that I am using to power my JBL p1022 in a .75cf sealed box. It has served me well over the years and I don't recall it being all that pricey when I got it. This BAMF should have plenty of power ([email protected]) to push that alpine and it can be found for under $150.


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## flex014 (Jun 14, 2017)

XtremeRevolution said:


> In progress! Cleaned the garage out the other day and I have several outer cuts made. Working on them this week.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry PRIV using Tapatalk


Awesome! Can't wait!


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Bases are cut. Might be done today.









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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Baffles are almost done, just need to get them sealed. I'll get that done tomorrow, and will be able to ship them out Monday. 










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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Four orders went out yesterday via USPS, and one more is boxed up and ready to be dropped off. Still waiting on payments for the last two but that shouldn't take long. 

Thanks everyone for supporting this group buy. I made three pairs of extra baffles in case someone comes across this thread and wants a pair, since I likely will not have time to get another batch made till spring of next year at earliest.


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## Dialtone74 (Jul 7, 2017)

XR Do you still have a pair of Baffles? If so I would like to order them today?


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## grtpumpkin (Nov 25, 2016)

Nightmistx22 said:


> The one thing that most car audio manufacturers (CAM) do not include is a frequency response graph. This will show how the driver performs at a given frequency. A lot of box sub CAM combos are one note wonders, they play very loud at a specific frequency but not at another that they are supposed to play within in their frequency band. Closing the port might fix some of this depending on how it's tuned.
> 
> Don't get me wrong they could have actually taken the time and built something pretty awesome. It's the lack of documentation to back up their designs that I'm harping on. All the drivers on parts express and other similar sites have documentation that includes Thiele Small parameters and frequency response graphs. XR does an excellent job of explaining these things here.
> 
> As for monoblocks. I have a Power Acoustik BAMF 2000/1D that I am using to power my JBL p1022 in a .75cf sealed box. It has served me well over the years and I don't recall it being all that pricey when I got it. This BAMF should have plenty of power ([email protected]) to push that alpine and it can be found for under $150.


 So is there a problem in general using a higher wattage rated amplifier for powering a lower wattage rated sub? For example, my Type R is rated at 150-350 watts RMS. Would the 700watts rms the amp provides hurt the sub? Am I thinking this wrong & the subwoofer will only draw as much power as it needs & would be ok? 

R-


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

grtpumpkin said:


> So is there a problem in general using a higher wattage rated amplifier for powering a lower wattage rated sub? For example, my Type R is rated at 150-350 watts RMS. Would the 700watts rms the amp provides hurt the sub? Am I thinking this wrong & the subwoofer will only draw as much power as it needs & would be ok?
> 
> R-


Not at all. You'll know, due to distortion, when you're driven a sub too far with power. That amp would not hurt the sub unless you heard it bottoming it out and kept pushing it, but that's a risk with any amp. The louder you want it to go, the more power it will get. Listen for distortion and you'll find out what the limits of the sub are. The last thing you want is clipping, which you can't necessarily hear, which will destroy a sub through overheating. Clipping is caused by under-powering an amplifier.


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## grtpumpkin (Nov 25, 2016)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Not at all. You'll know, due to distortion, when you're driven a sub too far with power. That amp would not hurt the sub unless you heard it bottoming it out and kept pushing it, but that's a risk with any amp. The louder you want it to go, the more power it will get. Listen for distortion and you'll find out what the limits of the sub are. The last thing you want is clipping, which you can't necessarily hear, which will destroy a sub through overheating. Clipping is caused by under-powering an amplifier.


Thanks for that info. I was thinking in terms of a standard electrical device, lets say for example a 40 watt bulb in a house. That bulb is only going to draw 40 watts on it's 110 volt circuit. It's designed to draw 40 watts within the 110 volt circuit. If the circuit is 15 amps then there is plenty of headroom & it won't trip the breaker & won't cause any trouble during normal operation. If a short develops in the bulb then there would be a problem with current draw and the circuit breaker would trip.

Thinking in terms like this I see no way an amp, during normal operation, could blow a sub unless a fault developed in the sub or the amp. I suppose like anything else if you worked the sub really hard it could over heat or exceed it's travel limits through momentum or suspension velocity, then all **** breaks loose. At that point I would not blame the amp. Make sense?

R-


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

grtpumpkin said:


> Thanks for that info. I was thinking in terms of a standard electrical device, lets say for example a 40 watt bulb in a house. That bulb is only going to draw 40 watts on it's 110 volt circuit. It's designed to draw 40 watts within the 110 volt circuit. If the circuit is 15 amps then there is plenty of headroom & it won't trip the breaker & won't cause any trouble during normal operation. If a short develops in the bulb then there would be a problem with current draw and the circuit breaker would trip.
> 
> Thinking in terms like this I see no way an amp, during normal operation, could blow a sub unless a fault developed in the sub or the amp. I suppose like anything else if you worked the sub really hard it could over heat or exceed it's travel limits through momentum or suspension velocity, then all **** breaks loose. At that point I would not blame the amp. Make sense?
> 
> R-


The light bulb comparison is actually a pretty good one, since the light bulb is basically a resistor that glows. A voice coil, similarly, is also a resistor. The higher the voltage you give it, the brighter it gets. 

In a sealed enclosure, a sub that's overpowered will give you signs of distortion as you exceed its limits of excursion. Eventually, you'll hear that rattle-tapping indicating that you bottomed out, or you might just hear one loud smack if you play a deep synthetic note that you weren't expecting. In a vented enclosure, the sub's excursion is limited by the port for frequencies near the port tuning frequency. This is where the dangers of under-powering are the most prevalent. Think of it this way...in a vented enclosure, there are three forces at play. First, the subwoofer's cone. Second, the air inside the box, which you can envision like a spring. Third is the volume of air in the cone, which for the purpose of comparison, you can assume is a solid. As frequencies are played near the tuning frequency, the air in the port and the cone of the sub begin to move in the same direction. The mass of air in the port fires outward as the sub fires outward, and the mass of air in the port pulls inward as the sub pulls inward, using the air mass in the box as a spring. In this way, excursion of the sub is reduced, and the port itself produces most of the volume. 

This is dangerous for two reasons. First, the reduced subwoofer excursion reduces its ability to cool the voice coil. Second, you can put more power through, and get more output out of a vented sub without bottoming out because that excursion is limited. Because vented boxes also tend to produce a form of distortion called group delay, it is more difficult to tell when the sub is clipping, and you can easily fry the voice coil by giving it a clipped signal with an underpowered amp. Even with an overpowered amp, you have to understand the sub's limitations if you're playing around the tuning frequency or you can fry the voice coil. This is mostly a concern with synthetic bass like rap or dubstep that have long, extended synthetic bass tracks at low bass frequencies.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

If anyone is interested, there is one pair of baffles left out of the 10 I made in this group buy. I'll update this thread once that pair is sold.


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## tmack556 (Aug 1, 2017)

I'm interested in that last one if you've still got it!


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

tmack556 said:


> I'm interested in that last one if you've still got it!


Yep, I still have it. I'll send you a PM.


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## Tmiller39 (Oct 18, 2016)

Are these baffles tight up against the door frame?and can speaker work?do you suggest any good set of speakers?since I have the p312" Rockford fosgate sub I'm looking to buy Rockford components. I'm pushing 75 watts to each speaker


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## Tmiller39 (Oct 18, 2016)

If he doesn't want it I do


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

They're all sold out. I forgot to update the thread. If there's enough demand, I can start another batch possibly after thanksgiving if enough people want them. Absolutely no sooner than that though. 

They'll work with whatever speaker you want and they mount right to the door frame.

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## Dialtone74 (Jul 7, 2017)

These are the baffles XTR makes. Silver Flutes are shown. Perfect fit. Awesome Product.


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## 1988gmc355 (Jul 20, 2016)

Hi @XtremeRevolution, I am interested in these baffles if you want to try to get another group going. I would like to upgrade the front speakers sometime in the coming months.


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## juri (May 28, 2020)

I know the Baffle sale is done, is anyone still making these? I don't have a workshop looking to possibly buy a pair. Xtreme I would be grateful if you could share the specs with me if you're no longer selling them. I believe I can get away with making them with a dremel.


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