# That **** Console Lid/Armrest



## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

One of my biggest remaining pet peeves on the Cruze that I couldn't do anything about was that console lid that likes to slide back on me. I'm noticing it likes to slide back much easier with my coat on in the winter too.

So I decided to look into exactly why it's the awful way it is.

I thought about putting some foam in there and even made one up, but it failed miserably. There's no good way to tie it down. I tried to and it ended up scrunching the foam and not working at all. Here foam covered in some brown felt I thought would look pretty nice. On to plan B.

Short of emptying the console completely out and taking the whole thing apart, I couldn't find a way to just take the top off. Removing the visible screws on the inside of the lid just gives view to the gear/resistance mechanism underneath in the back, and even then, that little plastic panel won't come off completely due to the hinge.

My plan B idea was to use the mechanism from a click pen. Somehow replace the ink cartridge with a wire of some sort to lock in, so I'd just have to reach out and press a button in the out position. But, that would require intense precision each time I'd put it out, and it could be rather flimsy since my arm will put a significant amount of force on it. It would probably just bend the wire. There's also no good place to mount something like this without really hacking into it.

So on to plan C. I went scrounging around the garage and came up with this. I found a spare baggage door catch for an RV. This particular one is stainless steel vs. the usual ones which are flimsy white plastic. 










Then, I opened the console top and extended the arm rest out so I could get in there. I slid said latch down in that gap, and with some luck, it cleared completely.

Next, I'd have a problem keeping it in the down position without something for it to hook on. So, I hooked onto the little coil spring and released the tension a little by letting it grab onto another part of the latch that didn't have it coiled as much. It provides a little tension- enough that it helps spring it back closed, but not enough that it can do it unassisted. So going over a bump and moving the console top around shouldn't cause it to pop back up. It does kinda push up tight into itself in the closed position. I mounted the catch on the bottom of the sliding part of the lid at full extension, so that it will catch on the 'stationary' part of the lid. The sliding part has some sort of recessed thing (part of the gearing/track?) in the center under there. I mounted the catch right up against the edge lip of that. It doesn't give a real firm lock in the farthest out position, but it's very close, within 1/4" or less I'd say. I figure this way nothing should have to be forced then. I used screws that were about 3/8" to 1/2" long, which were fine. I removed one of the screws right next to the latch and it's probably 1" long and mounted on the same surface level. I did feel/push afterward anyway and I could not feel any screw tips on top, so no worries on the length here.

When the catch is extended, it sits right in a valley around the console top latch, which really does hold it firmly there, especially if an arm is putting pressure up against it. 

This mod does not affect the factory latch system at all. Simply push up on the stainless catch to close it, then slide the armrest back like normal and lift up on the latch to open the top. To lock out again, close the lid, lift up on the latch to extend it, then reach underneath and pull down on the stainless catch. Tap the armrest back to sort of lock it into position. I think the 1/4" of play is actually much less because the lid actually twists slightly on the track. Also, should this catch jam at all, the console can still be opened. Just reach underneath (with top extended) and push on the top of the console latch. It'll open it up. The best part of all of this is that it's very functional yet completely out of sight and still stock looking.

Pictures:

Closed, in normal position:









Extended, looking factory:









Lid open, not extended:









Lid open, extended, not locked:









Lid open, extended, locked:









While we've had these sitting in the spare parts bins for years, the exact part is still sold today:

Amazon.com: JR Products 10245 Stainless Steel Baggage Door Catch: Automotive

I'm pretty excited to try it out tomorrow and see if it works as good as it seems like it should!


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## Chevyderek72 (May 16, 2011)

Wow that's pretty awesome, let us know if that thing holds up, I might have to follow suit, especially with my girlfriends Cruze as she hates it sliding back also.

Sent from my DROID X2 using AutoGuide App


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## bbdhomer (Jun 20, 2012)

if this works, you might have solved one of the most annoying pet peeves in this car, good luck!!!!!


... personally speaking the arm rest doesnt bother me *AT ALL*... and it doesnt slide back either, but you know what would be nice? a longer arm-rest (being picky now )


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## spaycace (Feb 9, 2012)

My pet peeves with the armrest are: sliding back at will (which was supposed to be addressed/fixed by GM on the 2013), doesn't slide out quite as far as I'd like it to, AND finally, when it is out, you're limited on what you can put in the rear cup holder & then can't get it out unless you slide the darn thing back!


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## NuJerz2001 (Jan 27, 2012)

Great post! Lookin forward to hearing the outcome of this one.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

So far so good this morning! No squeaks/rattles, and it stayed in place just fine!


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

Here's a solution I posted over a year ago:

#10 08-12-2011, 10:02 AM 


I fabricated the following and wedged it underneath the arm rest between the latch which keeps it from sliding and will allow you to open the compartment by pressing up on the wood. Note that the ruler is in cm (3").
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/821/81394442.jpg​ 




​


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## Aussie SRi-V (Aug 25, 2012)

The slider fix I carried out on the SRi-V, and it works a treat!
Cheap, effective and nothing visible.








Remove the 6 screws and slide to lower out over the 2 hinge arms







Remove the 4 hinge screws. If you remove the upper ones first and slowly lift the armrest away as you unscrew the 2 lower screws together, you will find there is enough access for a screwdriver for the lower screws.








Remove the 4 screws holding the internal stopper and lift out.








Lift out the two internal gears
Note for later: You will need to slightly enlarge the centre stopper mounting hole only on the aft side. This is to allow clearance for the added loop Velcro. I only enlarged it to the depth of the keyway.








Slide the two assemblies apart







Loctite hook Velcro on the Aft point of the centre channel







Loctite the loop velcro to the internal stopper, I gave it a little sand to obtain better adhesion. Check the fit of the stopper again and enlarge the hole on the aft side as required.

Reassemble and your done..

The grip using the amount of velcro in the pictures is adequate to hold the armrest forward while driving.
Pull it forward as normal and the velco grips the stop guide at the end of normal travel and holds it in place 
Firm pressure against the velcro and it slides back in to the rear position.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Aussie SRi-V said:


> The slider fix I carried out on the SRi-V, and it works a treat!
> Cheap, effective and nothing visible.
> 
> View attachment 11440
> ...


Very nice! I tried to disassemble mine, and I wonder if the design is slightly different. I don't remember exactly, but the inner cover was somehow attached at the hinge. When I removed all the screws, the piece would move, but not enough to access anything internally there.

I also didn't want to force anything, so it may have come off/apart for more force.

So did the original design just use friction/force of that plastic block (where you put the velcro) wedging up against the other plastic to hold it in place?


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## Aussie SRi-V (Aug 25, 2012)

I'm not sure what design changes have occurred, or if any.
I just tried to reverse engineer what is in the SRi-V, but my guess it’s the same as many other versions around the globe.
The internal block stopper slides up and down that centre channel but has about 1.5mm clearance from the sliding arm rest, so no friction there.. 
The 2 gears are there to increase the friction of the sliding movement. Theywork in conjunction with the friction created by the design of the outer tracks. I guess to try and make it stay in the position you pull it out too. Fail.
So using the clearance available I made the end of the centre track a Velcro area for the stopper to lock into.
I contemplated using a magnetic style catch, but it came back to keep it simple.
It works well and I keep OEM functionality, as it was intended.
I also looked at the design of the 2 gears to see if I could increase the rotational drag, however it's just a small cheap unit that would have fallen apart, with any mod attempt.
So Velcro it was!


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## firehawk618 (Feb 24, 2013)

Our 13' stays slid out. In fact to slide it back takes a bit of force.


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## Aussie SRi-V (Aug 25, 2012)

It would be interesting to know if the internal design has changed with the MY 13.
I wonder if they will still require the same force to slide back after 12 months of use.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Aussie SRi-V said:


> It would be interesting to know if the internal design has changed with the MY 13.
> I wonder if they will still require the same force to slide back after 12 months of use.


They did somehow, because I played with it at the auto show. I agree that it should be interesting to see how it'll be a year from now. It was by no means a lock, just made it a little stiffer/harder to push back.


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