# Pads & Rotors



## Patman (May 7, 2011)

From my experience about brake pads. Most OEM brake pads are Ceramic. This started in the early 2000s. Prior to that were semi-metallic pads before that were Organic Pads. I have found the best pads to be Bendix Organic but I typically buy pads from Advance Auto Parts or Napa. Just a different name from who is selling the pads. I did some research on it and they all are the same. Advance Auto Parts sells Wearever, Autozone sells Duralast. I did some research on it and they all are the same.

I have a couple of questions: How many miles you do you have on your car that you need brake pads maybe @40000 miles with lots of stop and go. Why replace the rotors every time you replace pads? That in short is excessive(IMO) unless the rotors are "grooved". Your choice if you feel you have an extra $100 + to spend on a brake job. All in all, I have bought most my brakes from Advance Auto Parts with no problem. As long as you go with a good Ceramic pad, you cant go wrong.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Any of the "premium" ceramic brake pads from the big names in brakes should be fine. For rotors, I'd see how the originals are wearing before replacing them. Again, getting a good name with a good warranty is usually sufficient.


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## xczar (May 19, 2013)

Though my car is only about 4 weeks old, I have been driving 160 miles per day / 6-7 days a week. I`m only at 5000 miles right now, driving in 50% stop and go, but don`t expect to need them for quite a while. I figure once I know what I want/need, I can start to do searches on them at eBay and the rest of the internet from someone that is selling very cheap. And, I`ll have piece of mind, when I need them, I won`t have to do the search, and/or pay more.

It has always been my experiance that putting (the cheaper) aftermarket brakes, pads and or rotors, does not do the same job. And, for some dam reason, 50k+ on rotors always seem to vibrate (warped). So, if I do the job myself, and find the OEM rotors or better, for say $70 / $80, it`s worth the smoothness of the drive.

I do admit, I never tried buying (relitively) expensive aftermarket pads and rotors. Some seem real nice though and was hoping to get some insight, especially compared to OEM.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

One reason, can practically buy new rotors for a couple of bucks more than having your old ones turned. Well unless you are driving an 88 Supra, with those I sand blast out the vents, try using high temperature paint in them, and tell my machinist exactly how much to take off each side and watch him with my micrometer. Some of these guys are very careless and will take off an eighth of an inch going below specs.


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## xczar (May 19, 2013)

Not a fan of cutting them. What ever made them warp in the first place, will only get worse when you remove material.

Has anyone done a break job themselves here?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

xczar said:


> Not a fan of cutting them. What ever made them warp in the first place, will only get worse when you remove material.
> 
> Has anyone done a break job themselves here?


One or two people have. The drums are very easy to service, and the front rotors are expectedly simple, as most GM cars are. Compared to the 1997 Accord I have sitting in my yard, which requires a wheel hub removal (and a tool to rent) to replace the rotors.

My wife could change brakes on my Cruze.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

xczar said:


> Not a fan of cutting them. What ever made them warp in the first place, will only get worse when you remove material.
> 
> Has anyone done a break job themselves here?


I have always done my own brakes but not on my Cruze yet as I only have 5000 miles on my car I have a DIY for front Brake pads http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-how-library/9645-diy-how-replace-brake-pads.html. I have had my front wheel off and I can see it is no different than any other GM I have worked on. I also am not a fan of cutting rotors(no place around me that can turn rotors quickly) and replace when needed but I typically just replace the pads and that is it until @ 50000 miles then I look into rotor replacement.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Seem to have accumulated over the years, tubing cutters and benders, wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and caliper hones, double and bubble flare tools, all kinds of brake spring removal and adjustment tools, riveting tools of linings, special tools for rear caliper disk brakes, sand blasting, and painting equipment, acid tanks for severe rust problems, ABS diagnostic equipment, and brake bleeding equpment.

Basics have never changed since the very beginning, shoes or pads have to be free to self center, first only rear wheel brakes like on a Model T or farm tractor, in the late 20's, four wheel mechanical brakes, tricky to adjust. Mid 30's was the first to use hydraulic brakes, just a single master cylinder piston, was in the late 50's the dual master cylinder was introduced, back then was separating the fronts from the rears, then in the late 80's was diagonal and also the introduction of ABS. More problems.

04 Cavalier was about the easiest to maintain, finally stated to plate key brake components and even the lines. Resorted to down shifting to save wear and tear on the brakes a long time ago.

Hones are gathering rust, can't even buy the rubber anymore. Happy to see all the brakes on he Cruze are plated and the lines are plastic coated. But have to buy a new tool for the rear disk brakes, always changing that.

Was around in the 60's sometime, I didn't write this down that self adjusting brakes came out with drums, calipers are inherently self adjustable provided that piston is free to move in and out inside of the caliper. Overlooked by many, plus the guides.

Guess I can say I have been doing my own brakes, plus for many friends and family, since I was ten years old. Experience some terrible work done on this subject, and it's my families life and mine that are stake.

One real simple test is with the wheel off the ground, hand spin it, then have someone hit the brakes, should lock tight, then release the brakes, should spin freely again. So simple.


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## bodeis (Jan 28, 2012)

Cant go wrong with Durastop pads and Advantage rotors. That's what we do around here.


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