# 2012 Chevy Cruze Manual, Please tell me theres a chance I don't need a new clutch



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

There was a batch of bad clutches released for Cruzes manufactured up to November 2011. When was yours manufactured? Have you taken it to the dealer to have it looked at?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Slight correction...the clutches manufactured before Sept 2011 are the bad batch for the 1.4L Cruze. November was the 1.8L cutoff. I've got an Oct 2011 1.4 and it's doing fine at close to 10,000.



travscruze said:


> the break points for the defective clutches for the 1.4L is the middle of sept. and the 1.8 was middle of Nov.


62,000 on a Volvo is low mileage for a clutch to go out too - the 850's used to last upwards of 200,000 on a clutch.

Do you drive aggressively or slip the clutch violently for launches? The Cruze clutch is VERY weak for that kind of driving - it seems to be suited for easy take-off and not much more. I could smell mine burning for the first 1,500 miles or so every time I'd try to reverse uphill.


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## TobascoFlex (Nov 28, 2012)

Where can you find in what month your car was manufactured?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

In addition, not all the clutches in cars manufactured before Oct 2011 (1.4) or Nov 2011 (1.8) were bad. It's really a case of hit and miss, which is unfortunate because it makes getting a warranty repair that much harder. The visible symptom for the bad clutches is the friction plate only having point contact wear instead of being worn over most of the surface.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

TobascoFlex said:


> Where can you find in what month your car was manufactured?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App


On a sticker on the driver's door.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> Slight correction...the clutches manufactured before Sept 2011 are the bad batch for the 1.4L Cruze. November was the 1.8L cutoff. I've got an Oct 2011 1.4 and it's doing fine at close to 10,000.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for correcting that. I had forgotten the 1.8 and 1.4T clutches had different cut-off dates.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

TobascoFlex said:


> Where can you find in what month your car was manufactured?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App


http://service.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/pdf/vincard 2011 car.pdf


Mine was built in Lordstown and is a 2011. Bought it in early July...so I might have a bad clutch? Can I just take it in and be like, "hey here's my car gimme a new clutch plz"?


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Do the RPM's rise without an appreciable difference in forward speed? If you can, get the car onto an empty road, get it in 4th at about 2000 RPM (about 40 mph, IIRC), and floor it. It should accelerate readily. If the RPM's rise but the car doesn't go faster, the clutch is shot. 

August 2011 build date, almost 40k miles, and no issues so far...


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

sciphi said:


> Do the RPM's rise without an appreciable difference in forward speed? If you can, get the car onto an empty road, get it in 4th at about 2000 RPM (about 40 mph, IIRC), and floor it. It should accelerate readily. If the RPM's rise but the car doesn't go faster, the clutch is shot.
> 
> August 2011 build date, almost 40k miles, and no issues so far...


No, there's no slipping or burning or I'd have taken it in already. If I did have a clutch from the bad batch, how long until I see a problem? I'm at 33k already. Assuming after 33k I'd be safe. Just want a new clutch


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

titan2782 said:


> No, there's no slipping or burning or I'd have taken it in already. If I did have a clutch from the bad batch, how long until I see a problem? I'm at 33k already. Assuming after 33k I'd be safe. Just want a new clutch


I think if your clutch did go, you'd have a very hard time getting it replaced at that mileage. Those that did get theirs replaced had them fail between 3k and 15k miles. If your clutch is still fine, it's probably safe to say that it's not defective.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I think if your clutch did go, you'd have a very hard time getting it replaced at that mileage. Those that did get theirs replaced had them fail between 3k and 15k miles. If your clutch is still fine, it's probably safe to say that it's not defective.


Ah shucks. :disgust (1):


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## AtlantaReb (Dec 7, 2012)

Ok, I have the 1.8L and it was manufactured 11/11... When I hit it in 4th I am able to accelerate, but not at the rate it should. Also, when I put it 6th, the shift light will come on what I push on the gas. As far as my driving tendencies - I am sure I am not the most kind person on my clutch, but I understand what this car is... I don't try and launch it when I shift... However, I do remember smelling clutch the first couple weeks I got the car and having to adjust to a more relaxed start - it doesn't take much gas to get this thing in gear.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

AtlantaReb said:


> Ok, I have the 1.8L and it was manufactured 11/11... When I hit it in 4th I am able to accelerate, but not at the rate it should. Also, when I put it 6th, the shift light will come on what I push on the gas. As far as my driving tendencies - I am sure I am not the most kind person on my clutch, but I understand what this car is... I don't try and launch it when I shift... However, I do remember smelling clutch the first couple weeks I got the car and having to adjust to a more relaxed start - it doesn't take much gas to get this thing in gear.


Do the RPMs rise up without a match in road speed like someone else mentioned? Will it accelerate OK at higher RPMs in 2nd or 3rd gear?

The shift light in 6th is definitely weird...


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## AtlantaReb (Dec 7, 2012)

It will accelerate, but definitely not proportionately. I have to be in low gears to get up hills


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## AtlantaReb (Dec 7, 2012)

Like, I remember when my volvo clutch went out there were similar signs, they were just more violent. I would switch gears and the RPMs would go WAY up. With this situation, I can still accelerate, just not in proportion to how much gas Im giving to the car. I read somewhere to try and start the car in 4th, and I could not. But at the same time, it certainly feels like a failing clutch


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Yours sounds like what happened in the early stages of my Saab's failing (it was at 210,000 miles and 15 by that point). At first, it would slip and was only able to get up big hills on the highway (55 mph zone) at 45 mph in 3rd or 4th gear.

It progressively got worse over a few months to the point where it was slipping in 1st and 2nd like crazy. RPM would peg at 4 with your foot barely on the gas and it would just slip like heck til you got up to speed.

Unfortunately, I think your diagnosis is right. I would contact Stacy on the site here (look up Chevrolet Customer Service) and set up a case. She may be able to get you covered under warranty for this KNOWN problem with Cruze clutches - because you're right - it should not be failing this early.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'd also have the shift light checked. This may not be the clutch. There is no reason for the shift light to come on in 6th gear as there are no higher gears to shift to.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> The Cruze clutch is VERY weak for that kind of driving - it seems to be suited for easy take-off and not much more. I could smell mine burning for the first 1,500 miles or so every time I'd try to reverse uphill.


I found that I had the exact same issue when my car was brand new, when I reversed out of my driveway (uphill) the clutch was grabby and smelled like it was burning. That is no longer the case, but it seems to be a weak design, with very light force being applied by the pressure plate.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

The 1.8 also doesn't have the power down low that the 1.4T has. While the 1.4T will pull a good-size hill at 2000 RPM without issue thanks to having all its torque at 2000 RPM, the 1.8 needs to rev to get going. I've also heard reports that it runs out of steam pretty quickly, too. So having to rev it to get up a hill is sort of normal, and having it feel "tapped out" is pretty normal for a naturally aspirated engine. 

Both engines also have drive-by-wire throttles, so the computer decides how much to open the throttle. The accelerator is more of a suggestion than a command. 

Having the shift light come on is weird. I'd have it looked at, since it should not come in in 6th.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I can attest that the LS runs out of steam a lot sooner than the ECO. I've driven both on my daily commute and Penguin LS definitely doesn't accelerate as well uphill onto C-470 as my ECO does. The LS does get through intersections quicker since it has more low speed torque.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

sciphi said:


> While the 1.4T will pull a good-size hill at 2000 RPM without issue thanks to having all its torque at 2000 RPM,


 The tune changes this.



> Both engines also have drive-by-wire throttles, so the computer decides how much to open the throttle. The accelerator is more of a suggestion than a command.


This is exactly what I hate. I'm not suggesting you open up, I'm freaking TELLING you! The car should NEVER try to be smarter than I am when it comes to driving. It has no idea if I'm racing or trying to get out of the way of a semi truck. 

I've been working with Vince to try and help it through the tune. So far it's going ok. Need more changes though.


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## ADK_Cruze (Dec 8, 2012)

one thing I noticed with my 2012 Cruze LT is that the clutch doesn't seem 'fast' enough when I am trying to get into traffic, up to speed, merging... that sort of thing. My Cobalt SS had a similiar issue, but it was mechanical over hydraulic linkage. Also, I am pretty good on a clutch. My 2007 Cobalt SS/SC went 112,000 (when i got rid of it) on the same clutch. My 1998 Cavalier went 307,000 miles before the girl that bought it from me had to change it.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

ADK_Cruze said:


> one thing I noticed with my 2012 Cruze LT is that the clutch doesn't seem 'fast' enough when I am trying to get into traffic, up to speed, merging... that sort of thing. My Cobalt SS had a similiar issue, but it was mechanical over hydraulic linkage. Also, I am pretty good on a clutch. My 2007 Cobalt SS/SC went 112,000 (when i got rid of it) on the same clutch. My 1998 Cavalier went 307,000 miles before the girl that bought it from me had to change it.


Same here. If I speed shift 1-2 or 2-3 above 4,000 RPM (as I would do switching lanes or trying to get up an on-ramp into fast-paced traffic), I sometimes get a nasty grind from it.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

I too thought that there was a problem with the clutch speed back when the car was new and it was shutting off on me. But, think about this. The hydraulic clutch uses the same system as your brakes. 

I think it's something else. I'm going to say it's the gear box and/or linkage. I have theories (which are all probably wrong) but no way to prove them ATM. Try the gear oil upgrade that XR wrote about and see how it changes things.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

titan2782 said:


> I too thought that there was a problem with the clutch speed back when the car was new and it was shutting off on me. But, think about this. The hydraulic clutch uses the same system as your brakes.
> 
> I think it's something else. I'm going to say it's the gear box and/or linkage. I have theories (which are all probably wrong) but no way to prove them ATM. Try the gear oil upgrade that XR wrote about and see how it changes things.


You mean this one?

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-how-forum/6627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html

Sciphi actually pioneered that one, but I do highly recommend it.


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## AtlantaReb (Dec 7, 2012)

Well I dropped the car off today, and am using the loaner right now. They did diagnose it as a clutch issue and I already know they are going to come back and accuse me of abusive driving. How have other successfully battled with the dealership and got the clutch covered by warranty?


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> You mean this one?
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-how-forum/6627-how-change-manual-transmission-fluid.html
> 
> Sciphi actually pioneered that one, but I do highly recommend it.


That's the one; switching out with Amsoil Synchromesh (MTF).


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

AtlantaReb said:


> Well I dropped the car off today, and am using the loaner right now. They did diagnose it as a clutch issue and I already know they are going to come back and accuse me of abusive driving. How have other successfully battled with the dealership and got the clutch covered by warranty?


Yep. Well, not with the Cruze, but with the SRT-4. Stand your ground. They have to prove you don't know how to drive a manual and your problems are self inflicted. Don't let them push you around on it. 

Either way they still have to dig into it to tell. Just be prepared to pay or fight.


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## AtlantaReb (Dec 7, 2012)

titan2782 said:


> Yep. Well, not with the Cruze, but with the SRT-4. Stand your ground. They have to prove you don't know how to drive a manual and your problems are self inflicted. Don't let them push you around on it.
> 
> Either way they still have to dig into it to tell. Just be prepared to pay or fight.


Well Im not prepared to pay!


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

AtlantaReb said:


> Well Im not prepared to pay!


I told the dealership: look, get in there and fix it. If you can prove it was something I or my wife did, then I'll be more than happy to accept it and pay up. Otherwise, you fix it and you pay for it.

Mechanics are no different than doctors. You can always get a second opinion.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

AtlantaReb said:


> Well I dropped the car off today, and am using the loaner right now. They did diagnose it as a clutch issue and I already know they are going to come back and accuse me of abusive driving. How have other successfully battled with the dealership and got the clutch covered by warranty?




AtlantaReb,
I would like to apologize for the issues that you are experiencing with your Cruze. I would like you to keep me posted on the progress with your dealer. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me anytime.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## Cruzemeister (Mar 22, 2011)

*enough*

Okay......... I think I've heard enough. I'm a member from back in Feb of 2011 when I got a new 2011 LS 1.8 automatic. I reintroduced myself on the newbie section to announce my 
success with the overall ownership experience with it (now have 15K on it) and it has turned out to be my all around favorite car ever. I've had small Fords, Small Mitsubishi's, small Saturns, mid size Buick's and even a high end Olds 98 that had low mileage on when I got it back in 2000. But my LS 1.8 auto does everything it's supposed to do with composure and no weirdness factors. 

None of the others past had done so much so well.

Which brings me to why I asked the question (on the newbie thread) about my chance to get a terrific deal on a new 2012 leftover LT1 RSpkg 1.4T with manual stick. Looks like fun and mentally has fun written all over it. I've had sticks before that sucked bigtime. And I've driven a few foreign makes w/stick that seemed to have a heftier fee overall. But I'm hearing her that the stock clutch from GM is something equivelant to brake pads waiting to wear out. I can't handle that. I've never had an automatic screw up on even some old old clunkers I had out of high school! 
My opinion after reading this and other threads, is that if you are not a gear head or a mechanic, you should steer clear of any modern clutches BECAUSE THEY AIN'T EVEN REMOTELY GOOD ENOUGH TO HIT 100,000 MILES (or even 30,000) without having it replaced. That is a sad testimony to modern engineering. I've heard it on Corvette forums, Mustang forums,Camaro forums, yadda yadda....... the factory clutches aren't built to take it or even to perform well during average stop and go driving. I'm not talking about "pushing it" - just everyday traffic light and on/off ramps. I don't get it. I do, in a way, but still..... like why are most companies not even offering stick in upper end models? Do they cost too much to make a decent heavy duty one? Really?
I think I've heard enough. Deal off. I could live with the "turbo's run hotter" and maybe a related turbo replacement at say 50K or so, but having to wonder when the clutch is gonna start slipping ? Nope. I'm hanging on until the 39 month lease is up and see if anything starts getting funky - at that point maybe just buy it as a keeper. To me, any car that costs 20K or over, should only require the most routine of maintenance for at least 80K miles. 
Merry Christmas !


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Cruzemeister - there were some batches containing bad clutches from LUK delivered to GM for the 2011 and very early part of the 2012 model years. Not all the clutches during this time period were bad. Since then, the clutches have been solid. I do think, however, that your observation about clutch manufacturing in general becoming a lost art.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

AtlantaReb - any update?


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## Cruzemeister (Mar 22, 2011)

obermd said:


> Cruzemeister - there were some batches containing bad clutches from LUK delivered to GM for the 2011 and very early part of the 2012 model years. Not all the clutches during this time period were bad. Since then, the clutches have been solid. I do think, however, that your observation about clutch manufacturing in general becoming a lost art.


So, what kind of date cutoff would be reliable for the 2012's? I'm going to check build date if I rethink this trade. 
So, generally, if you treat it normal - no burnouts, no nolift shifts, no antics, the current clutches are doing well? Is there a thread anywhere with this agreement?
By the way - you ever have any trouble with those tribbles?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Cruzemeister said:


> So, what kind of date cutoff would be reliable for the 2012's? I'm going to check build date if I rethink this trade.
> So, generally, if you treat it normal - no burnouts, no nolift shifts, no antics, the current clutches are doing well? Is there a thread anywhere with this agreement?
> By the way - you ever have any trouble with those tribbles?
> View attachment 9651


Look @ the 3rd post in this topic. 


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

My ECO MT was built in September. The cutoff date for the 1.4T engines is sometime in September and for the 1.8 in November. That said, we have had a couple of reports in newer Cruzen. In every case the clutch had been seriously abused by slipping for extended periods at high RPM.

I grew up with and currently live with the closest thing to a live tribble, so yes, I have had my share of trouble with tribbles.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

I have an August 2011 built Cruze that's been tuned, so it's in the potentially affected range and is pushing the rated power the clutch can hold. With 40k miles on mine, I haven't had a clutch issue. The clutch holds all the power I ask it to, even at WOT in "sport" mode in 3rd gear. A transmission grind on fast 1-2 shifts with sport mode on Trifecta's tune engaged, yes, I've still got that every once in a great while when shifting at 6000+ RPM at high load levels. I've shifted 1-2 at the 6500 RPM fuel cutoff very gently and at normal shifting speeds without any grinding. For normal driving it's non-existent. For fast shifting at near-stock power levels it's non-existent. The Amsoil Synchromesh cleared up that issue nicely. 22k miles on it now, and it shifts the same as when it went in. 

So even in a Cruze that's in the "affected" date range and is running a tune, it's very likely there will be no issues. Change the gear oil at the first hint of notchiness or excessive grinding, or just change it with the first oil change so the transmission doesn't get a chance to grind. The OEM fluid in the transmission isn't the best.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

titan2782 said:


> No, there's no slipping or burning or I'd have taken it in already. If I did have a clutch from the bad batch, how long until I see a problem? I'm at 33k already. Assuming after 33k I'd be safe. Just want a new clutch


You'd have seen the problem by 15k for sure. If you're at 33k, you don't have a bad clutch.


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## AtlantaReb (Dec 7, 2012)

Hey Guys, sorry it took so long.....

Clutch was covered under GMs powertrain warranty, if yall want I can take a screen shot of the bill/vehicle report


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Wonderful. Did you find out what happened to it?


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## Calintz (Jul 21, 2011)

Thats good to hear *AtlantaReb*! Let us know what was the cause of the issue. Now I have an 2011 LS Manual (Bare Bones model) and my clutch has been nothing but good to me never grind, holds the power down when I want to, and easy to shift. Now it does vibrate when its in 3rd or 4th gear but nothing to cause a major break down. I'm still going to change the oil regardless but with 26k on my dash the clutch has been perfect for me. IMO


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

AtlantaReb said:


> Hey Guys, sorry it took so long.....
> 
> Clutch was covered under GMs powertrain warranty, if yall want I can take a screen shot of the bill/vehicle report


A photo would be excellent to have. Thanks!

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## ADK_Cruze (Dec 8, 2012)

my 2012 Cruze 1LT has just passed the 10k mark and so far, the issue with the clutch not seeming to be fast enough has passed. The car is VERY quick, quicker than the base model Cobalt I had before my Cobalt SS/SC. The only shortcomings I see now, in relation to any serious power add-ons, is the shift throw being epically long, shift linkage being somewhat willowy, the motor mounts have as much stiffness as a flaccid wang chung and the suspension/tires being a bit too driving miss daisy. Still, the car is fun to drive. It's not the banzai warhorse that the Cobalt SS was, but it still makes twisty side roads entertaining.


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