# Brake problem?



## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

Hi guys! I have a 2010 Holden Cruze CDX deisel sedan. 137000kms.

So recently I have had an issue with my brake pedal vibrating/shaking when I use it. It's only happening when I reach a particular location on my way to work. It's in a 100km zone downhill and going around a corner, turning to the left, and as soon as I start to slow down the brake pedal seems to vibrate or shutter a bit. Brakes seem to be working like normal as in still slowing down, no steering wheel shakes or anything like that. It doesnt happen any other time. 

Seems to have gotten worse very quickly, I now have a very deep sounding grinding noise in the front end now when it happens, sounds like it's coming from both front wheels. I have driven very slowly at a different time to see if it made a difference and it didnt. What could it be? I dont know if it's a coincidence or not but just before this started to happen I had new 18" wheels put on (old ones were 17s).


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## Cruzen18 (Jan 28, 2018)

How do your pads look? Rotors?

Did you put hubcentric wheels on when you up-sized them?

Are the new wheels hitting the calipers or other suspension parts?


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## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

I took it to the "professionals" so I assume whatever was meant to be done for it to be done properly should have been done when the wheels went on. It's at the mechanics now, so far he has said that the discs needs to be machined but they aren't bad enough to be causing all these problems. He also said he is wondering if they should have put a spacer in with the new wheels? So he was going to check that too. Picking it up in an hour, hopefully they'll tell me more.


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## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

So I just picked it up from the mechanic, he said apart from the rotors needing to be machined then theres nothing he can find that would be causing it to happen. Brake pads are good too. He wants me to drive him to where it usually happens so he can hear it, otherwise he is assuming it's my "driving style" which I call bullshit on, considering it's only a recent problem.


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## Cruzen18 (Jan 28, 2018)

I could be wrong, but it's got to be something with the new set up if it just started happening AFTER the change.
What is the offset and width of the new wheels? Check the spacing on the wheels against the suspension/calipers.

As for wheels; all wheels are not the same tho. Some are lug-centric, some are hub-centric.


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## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

I have no idea ? how can I find that out?


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

I agree with Cruzen, but only thing I'm skeptical on is if it were a problem with the lack of hub spacers, wouldn't it happen all or most the time and not just that one hill? Either way, you need to be sure whether or not they require spacers. I believe that should be found on the manufacturer's website or contact the dealer for the wheels.

Furthermore, what you explain is most commonly warped rotors, but they could be front/back or all four. In my case, I feel a similar problem with my car, but it's the rear rotors. During normal operation everything seems fine. When I'm on the expressway and need to stop quickly, I feel it pretty good in the pedal and hear it too. Just haven't taken the time to turn the rotors yet. On my last car I installed drill/slotted rotors in the front and never had an issue afterwards. They dissipate heat quicker to prevent warpage and was a very noticeable stopping improvement.


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## mechguy78 (Jun 6, 2016)

Agreed on the hub rings/ spacers. These would cause an issue at all times and be worse with faster speeds. 

Is there any chance what you are feeling is the ABS kicking in? When activated it will vibrate the pedal but not the wheel and make what one could call a growling and or grinding noise. I have seen the abs start activating after a tire change in other vehicles causing it to not be happy with the new changes.


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## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

So for the second opinion I have from a different mechanic, all 4 discs are completely buggered, beyond machining. He did advise that I shouldnt put in the normal holden ones because they aren't that great. So he is going to find others and give me a price and options.


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## Allynic (Sep 6, 2014)

Mycruzenitrate said:


> So for the second opinion I have from a different mechanic, all 4 discs are completely buggered, beyond machining. He did advise that I shouldnt put in the normal holden ones because they aren't that great. So he is going to find others and give me a price and options.


If you want to splash cash look to BDA rotors and QFM brake pads. I put these on my 2014 1.6T which are the same size as the diesels. All four corners only about $100 more expensive than dealer changing front rotors only.
















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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Mycruzenitrate said:


> So for the second opinion I have from a different mechanic, all 4 discs are completely buggered, beyond machining. He did advise that I shouldnt put in the normal holden ones because they aren't that great. So he is going to find others and give me a price and options.


I have a 2012 JH diesel with 18x8 SRI-V wheels and have no problems. I just bolted them straight on using the original wheel nuts. The original front brakes on the other hand were rubbish rotor metal and I replaced them with grooved and dimpled rotors and have never looked back. The rear I just had machined and quality pads put on.


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## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

Thanks guys! I'll be looking into them!


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## Mycruzenitrate (Jul 9, 2018)

So the rotors are being done Friday.

Just my luck that the clutch is leaking fluid. Something to do with the master cylinder, which they'll look at more on Friday. As well as a rattle in the suspension. **** car is going to cost me more than it's worth!


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