# Need tips for painting my calipers



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Honestly it looks like you have a good grasp on the project. I assume you are doing it on the car, if so you won't need to bleed the brakes after, but it leaves you open for issues with overspray. Be sure to mask EVERYTHING very well including the suspension components as well as the wheel wells and fenders as overspray can travel a decent way while still wet. Also be sure to support the caliper by hanging it on an old wire coat hanger or something like that, do not let it hang by the brake hose unsupported.

Read and follow the directions on the labels, I am not sure if they recommend primer for the caliper paint or not, but make sure they are compatible if they do and follow the timing indications for coating and recoating as well as dry times. And be sure to get everything as clean as possible.


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

Chris Tobin said:


> Honestly it looks like you have a good grasp on the project. I assume you are doing it on the car, if so you won't need to bleed the brakes after, but it leaves you open for issues with overspray. Be sure to mask EVERYTHING very well including the suspension components as well as the wheel wells and fenders as overspray can travel a decent way while still wet. Also be sure to support the caliper by hanging it on an old wire coat hanger or something like that, do not let it hang by the brake hose unsupported.
> 
> Read and follow the directions on the labels, I am not sure if they recommend primer for the caliper paint or not, but make sure they are compatible if they do and follow the timing indications for coating and recoating as well as dry times. And be sure to get everything as clean as possible.


Don't put primer on them?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

turbo96 said:


> Don't put primer on them?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


I never used primer on my brake projects. Even if you do leave the caliper attached to the brake lines I still say take the time to pull the brackets and paint it off the car. I want to do this to my car but it's leased and I'm not dead set on buying it out yet.


----------



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

turbo96 said:


> Don't put primer on them?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


Read the directions on the caliper paint can. If they recommend primer, use it, if not, don't.


----------



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Merc6 said:


> I never used primer on my brake projects. Even if you do leave the caliper attached to the brake lines I still say take the time to pull the brackets and paint it off the car. I want to do this to my car but it's leased and I'm not dead set on buying it out yet.


For sure take them off the rotors and mounts to paint them, but do not hang them by the brake line, use a coat hanger or something similar to support the caliper. And mask EVERYTHING in the area carefully so the paint does not get ANYWHERE you DONT want it!!!

Something cosmetic like painting the calipers should not hurt you much if at all on a lease. I'd think of things like tinted windows, pinstripes and such in the same category...


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

I plan on using a hanger, ty!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Chris Tobin said:


> For sure take them off the rotors and mounts to paint them, but do not hang them by the brake line, use a coat hanger or something similar to support the caliper. And mask EVERYTHING in the area carefully so the paint does not get ANYWHERE you DONT want it!!!
> 
> Something cosmetic like painting the calipers should not hurt you much if at all on a lease. I'd think of things like tinted windows, pinstripes and such in the same category...


Yes that's what I meant by still attached to the line vs bleeding the whole system and complete removal.


----------



## evo77 (Sep 5, 2011)

Thought about using a brush on paint?

It cost more but its much easier to use and avoids overspray and extra masking. 

G2 is the popular brand. Self leveling and high gloss and claims more durability over any rattle can paint. Rustoleum also makes a red brush on paint.


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Major question I would have is what type of paint to use. Painted the calipers and in particular the torque plates a very long time ago, gloss back was good enough for me, used Valspar exterior hard enamel in a spray can using CFC's as the propellant, still looks like new.

With my Cruze tried Rustoleum 900*F brake paint, and I sure know how to get parts super clean, washed off in a couple of months. Was in a spray can, could not find it in a can, CFC's are history now, using propane as a propellant, with a match, makes a nice torch. Belief it also affects the durability of the paint, but I am not a chemist.

Reason for painting was not for looks, but to keep the darn thing from rusting away from all this darn road salt.

If you do remove your calipers for painting, make sure you put a block of wood in front of your seat and place a stick to hold down your brake pedal while the engine is running so your power brakes are active. This closes off the bleed to your brakes within the master cylinder. If you don't, all of your fluid will leak out and will get air in your ABS that you will never get out. Unless you have a GM Tech II scanner with the ABS module to activate the ABS pump, can't hot wire these anymore.

Shop manual says only for a few seconds to activate that pump, whatever this means, too long and you will burn that tiny little motor up. Not making this up, in the shop manual.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> Yes that's what I meant by still attached to the line vs bleeding the whole system and complete removal.


This is not cheaper, but it is reversible






.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

As @Chris Tobin says - hang it!


----------



## turboGP1966 (Aug 7, 2014)

*Rattle Can or Brush-on?*

Ive done the rattle can and the epoxy brush-on stuff, can't say there was much difference one side or the other. I painted mine on the car, got lite-weight plastic drop clothes and masked the beejeezies outta the spindle, brackets, etc and sprayed it on. DO NOT use primer unless called for, primers are not heat rated and may smoke or peel if subject to long downgrades or track days. I've never had any issues either way. Yes, I get that every nook and crannie wont be covered, but unless you are removing your wheels for a show with mirrors underneath the chassis, no one else will ever know the difference. I did mine RED also, BTW, and they look great with the factory 17"s. Just upgraded the front to PowerStop cross drilled / slotteds and hi-perf PowerStop carbon-fibre/ceramic pads - $149 from Summit Racing. Awesome stopping power, great looks.


----------



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

turboGP1966 said:


> Ive done the rattle can and the epoxy brush-on stuff, can't say there was much difference one side or the other. I painted mine on the car, got lite-weight plastic drop clothes and masked the beejeezies outta the spindle, brackets, etc and sprayed it on. DO NOT use primer unless called for, primers are not heat rated and may smoke or peel if subject to long downgrades or track days. I've never had any issues either way. Yes, I get that every nook and crannie wont be covered, but unless you are removing your wheels for a show with mirrors underneath the chassis, no one else will ever know the difference. I did mine RED also, BTW, and they look great with the factory 17"s. Just upgraded the front to PowerStop cross drilled / slotteds and hi-perf PowerStop carbon-fibre/ceramic pads - $149 from Summit Racing. Awesome stopping power, great looks.


They do look great and for racing applications where you need the extra cooling or dust removal they are good, but for every day driving I would stick with high carbon non drilled or slotted rotors myself as they provide more stopping force/friction not sure what word to use, but they stop better.


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

Brake damper I am told. Is it even worth taking it off to look like this, & how?







I was going for this look! 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

turbo96 said:


> Anyone that has any good help, HELP!
> 
> Do I need any special tools to paint my brake calipers red?
> 
> ...


Thank you for that tip on VHT Caliper paints, tells me I have been going to the wrong stores. Has good reviews and hopefully lasts a lot longer than Rustoleum.

Feel I would spend a bit more time, not to paint that rubber boot on the caliper guide pins, that has got to be free to move. As are the levers and the rear calipers, and the piston boots.

Kind of like the old days better when I could take all of my brake parts plus others to my plant, after hours and use all of their cleaning and electroplating equipment. Until our lovely EPA banned electroplating in MY country, was back in the 80's, didn't write down the exact date. 

Paint seems to be the only other choice while we still can buy it.


----------



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Ceramic caliper paint. 

Eastwood Ceramic Brake Caliper Paints - Automotive Paint Colors - Eastwood


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

Is there a big chain, store, that carries "VHT"?









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

Got it done! And there's a chain store...not needed though!









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

Calipers look GREAT!















































































Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## modalita (May 25, 2013)

Looks like you crushed it. Great work.

ChrisFix from Youtube did a very good video on this.


----------



## aaron.terveen (Mar 30, 2017)

Rotars...in time maybe! 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Way to easy to remove the torque plates from the calipers, guide pins and boots should be removed first and cleaned, even replace the boots, and loaded up with silicone grease. Of course, pop off the pad clips. 

While I do have a sand blasting cabinet, found it much easier to buy a gallon of hydrochloric acid, about $2.50 a gallon from Menards, 50-50 mix with water, let them soak for about 20 minutes, they come out spotless. Strictly outdoors, this stuff is super strong, and one breathe of it hurts, have a special mask for this. Rinse off with a hose and quickly dry them off. 

Same can be done with the caliper, fronts are easy, but have to remove them first, won't get air in the ABS if you block the brake pedal first with a stick. Then comes the paint, piston boot pops off the the caliper, for my Supra was four bucks per wheel for all new rubber, never got this far with the Cruze. Also like that pack that piston boot with silicone, helps greatly to keep out road salt. Inside of the caliper is still cast iron lacking any nickel, that can really bind the piston.

Rear disc calipers are more of a problem, been to long ago, could remove the spring and work the lever by hand, piston should move outward. On my Cruze the piston would just go back and forth. Ha, had an argument with GM about this, but after about three months, gave me new ones, mine were not plated at all. New ones were plated. 

Recall on older ones, has a nut to remove that lever so could be masked off for painting. Did my Supra last year, rear calipers were just like the fronts, completely inherently self adjustable with separate drum brakes for parking. While GM did copy the torque plates that Toyota came out with, should have copied the drums as well. Since the drums are only used for parking, shoes never wear out. 

Reason for the torque plates, cannot use a C-Clamp to compress the piston, its on a screw, if the rotor is worn, with a rim on it, can use a power grinder just on the edge to slide the torque plates off, but never let them get that far. The clips on the torque plates trap road salt locking the pads. That's one problem, the other is rust build up on the piston binding.

So easy to test, spin the wheel, hit the brakes, spin them again, if binding, won't be able to turn the wheel. Kids that paid 99 bucks for new front pads, used a sledge hammer to install the new pads, talk about way over heated rotors plus very poor fuel economy. 

Other problems I have had with locking brakes is brake hoses made in China, many layers not properly vulcanized or cheap crap, really don't know. The inner layer would break free and act like a check valve keeping the brake locked after you removed your foot from the pedal. 

Have to screw in that piston on the rear calipers when replacing the pads, going back to 1978 on this, had a special tool for this, changed this on the Cruze. If salt water gets in either from the front or the rear seal, rusts that thread solid to the piston. Had this problem with a 78 GM, back then was 300 bucks per wheel. Cheaper now, with drastic inflation, only 106 bucks per wheel.










One reason why I prefer drums, really not that much difference in stopping power, but a heck of a lot cheaper.


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

This is what the inside of the rear rotor looks like, doesn't stick any further than any other conventional rotor with plenty space for the parking brake shoes so a cheap conventional rear inherently self adjusting caliper can be used.










Posting this for the new engineer kids on the block, patent is long expired, and a heck of a lot simpler than putting piston on the screw. With no need to work the parking brake and hope it works to take up the pad rotor clearance. Simple is always better.


----------

