# System Install Complete - DDIN GPS HU, 12" sub, front components, rear midbass



## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

This clip is a problem...as you can see, the power wire is in the way.... or as I view it now - the clip was in the way of my power wire. So, take a jigsaw and remove the clip (or any other saw/dremel). 

P1030104 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Problem solved - now it will sit flush and secure still:

P1030108 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

For the passenger side, I needed to chop off two for my particular set of wires: 

P1030109 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Still fits tight/secure and is now flush:

P1030110 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Now, onto the dash removal. USE PANEL REMOVAL TOOLS! This isn't so hard. Instructions come with your Metra dash kit purchase and are available on their website as well. The first piece to come off is the upper silver piece, already removed in the below photos. All screws are circled - there are only 6 of them. Pry with panel removal tools in areas shown for safest removal. 

P1030065 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

The factory button interface was unplugged before this photo. It was held in by two screws...simple. 

P1030064 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Back of factory radio button interface:

P1030132 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

If your tools cannot remove these screws through the tiny holes, drill them out larger or snip the plastic to allow access. 

P1030067 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

P1030069 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Remove the clips from the back of the factory radio with your thumb and a fine pointed tool. 

P1030071 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Between the integration unit, RCA connections, traffic tuner, antennae adapter, etc etc.... you have a LOT of wires to fit in s space that originally had 3 small factory connections.. 

P1030076 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

This was completely unavoidable for my install. Snip, drill, dremel, smash the plastic on the sides so that you have a place to fit all these extra wires/etc. 

P1030078 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

I ended up needing to trim that back piece off as well..but look at all that room now! Notice the RCAs were run from the left - you want to run as little as possible directly in the bottom/center area where the HU will sit over to avoid fitment issues. That is originally where I can the RCAs, but had trouble getting it to fit then. Smaller wires should be OK here though (I left a few). 

P1030080 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

Route RCAs, etc up from where this panel was removed from - use a coat hangar if necessary. 

P1030072 by fredmrad85, on Flickr

After finally getting the HU to fit with not a mm to spare (even after all that plastic cutting), I found I needed to snip a small potion off of this piece to allow a flush fit. 

P1030084 by fredmrad85, on Flickr



*** THREAD TO BE FINISHED SOON - for those that view my Flickr album and think "that's a crappy looking trunk/amp setup -- it's only temporary. I'm building a rack to hang above the sub box. I just wanted time to think of how I wanted to do this, and also wanted easy access to my amps for a few weeks while I fine tune all the settings and ensure all is operating correctly. These will not be visible in the future***


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## Chevyderek72 (May 16, 2011)

Nice, can't wait for mote info and pictures.

Sent from my DROID X2 using AutoGuide App


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

What head unit and sub?


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## Cruz3r (Jul 13, 2011)

looking good. im interested in a touchscreen headunit


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## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

Mick said:


> What head unit and sub?


I'm working on a complete write up now that will include all details - but the HU is the Pioneer AVIC-Z130BT, and the sub is a DVC 12TC-2000 (12" dual voice-coil by TC Sounds, who was bought out by AudioPulse I believe... though I'm not positive and not sure if they're around anymore even because if I Google TC Sounds, they're available from PartsExpress as of 2010. Someone here may have more info - the sub I used is one I purchased maybe 8 years ago and transferred it from my previous car/install. The closest equivalent to mine today is the TC Sounds Axis 12Q1 12" Quad VC Subwoofer, available from PartsExpress.


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## Mesto (Jan 23, 2012)

subscribesss


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MMMM TC sounds = yummy. 

I hope that's not CCA you used in the engine bay for the battery ground wire. Boy do I have some stories to tell you about the time I used CCA in my engine bay. Worked great for 2 years, but then the wire started to corrode INSIDE the jacket. Not near the crimp, not the exposed wire that was outside of the crimp, but about 2" into the jacket. Constant humidity and heat fluctuations (this was near my headers), caused the wire to become brittle and break. Took me a couple of hours and replacing my starter to figure out that the wiring was bad. I love CCA for the affordability (although you need 0/1 gauge to get the same capacity as 2 gauge copper), but it has no place in an engine bay. 

Good work on the baffles. That should sound quite nice. I remember when I used to use jigsaws for cutting MDF. Those were the days. Not being a snob, just saying...

Did you have anyone design you a sub box yet? If not, I'd be more than happy to do it for you. I designed well over 200 sub boxes last year, and in ways you may never have heard of before. Check this thread out if you want to learn more:

Why sub boxes are important

Seems like you know your way around car audio. Great to see someone who knows how to pick out some nice components. 

Looking forward to seeing the rest of this build.


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## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

Nope - not CCA:


[h=3]Model[/h][h=3]Diameter A/B*[/h][h=3]Max Load[/h][h=3]Max Length[/h][h=3]Strand Count[/h][h=3]Strand Size / Material[/h]KFX0​16 / 12mm​375A @ 20'​500 Feet​5145​36 Gauge Tinned OFC​

The jacket claims "exceptional resistance to abrasion, oil, and extreme temperatures (-40 to 105 C)". 


haha @ jigsaw comment. I do have a router (my only other means of making circles), but only use that for boxes - something as simple as a quick baffle doesn't provide me with enough reason to set everything up "properly". The baffles work well over the sound deadening - no excessive noise at all. I didn't deaden the entire doors, just in the general area of the speaker. 

Have not yet designed a box. I usually do/build my own, but have only previously had the space for sealed boxes. Now with ported being an option, I'd like to explore those which I haven't yet designed. I'll send you the T/S parameters for ideas. For now, I purchased a ported box approximate to what would be ideal as a temp solution until I have the time to make my own (and warmer weather....though lately hasn't been bad here in Chicagoland). 

Thanks for the comments


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

fredmr said:


> Nope - not CCA:
> 
> 
> *Model*
> ...


I'm also in the Chicago area, in New Lenox specifically. Southwest suburbs just east of Joliet at the intersection of I-80 and I-355. 

Good call on not using CCA. You've got some excellent wire there. 

I've never seen a good pre-fabbed box. They're always poorly put together, and the ported ones are tuned high and sound very boomy and just like crap. 

Where do you plan to place the sub in the trunk? I can get some measurements of my Cruze to get a good cabin transfer function simulation to get a reasonably accurate frequency response prediction. I'd otherwise have to have you take your own measurements. 

I would go all out and deaden the entire door if you can. I've used eDead a few times and thought it was great till Don over at SDS (sound deadener showdown) sent me a review kit that contains the materials needed to install one entire door, and I was blown away. I ended up running some frequency response sweeps that prove that one SDS CLD tile is significantly more effective at reducing panel resonance than two layers of eDead40. Not to say eDead doesn't have its place; I've used it to completely deaden my 95 Regal and my wife's 2000 Regal's doors, but for the Cruze, I'll be stepping it up a notch. 

I'll work on a box when you send me those T/S specs. What are your listening preferences, and what kind of music do you listen to?


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

What does an aftermarket head unit do to the vehicle settings in the car that are avail on the stock unit?


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## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

Patman said:


> What does an aftermarket head unit do to the vehicle settings in the car that are avail on the stock unit?


The GMOS-044 retains Onstar info displayed, AC controls, temperature... as far as changing any settings - I honestly don't even know what settings there really are in the factory unit (besides date/time). Didn't mess with it much and only had the car a couple weeks before I took it all out. Date/time is an issue. GMOS-044 interacts with the display and allows customization (and probably interaction with settings) IF you have steering wheel controls. I did not know that, and it wasn't specifically advertised anywhere steering controls were needed to access the info screen. So far, I only know of two ways to set the date/time: reconnect a disconnected battery exactly at midnight New Year's Day... or keep the battery connected, temporarily plug in the factory unit to access the settings, and replace with the aftermarket unit after. I haven't tried this option yet actually...but don't see why it wouldn't work. Kind of a pain, but if your battery won't be disconnected often, not a huge issue.. 

I've been meaning to see if the dealer has any way of accessing this externally by chance - but I doubt it.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

The factory head unit controls allow you to do a variety of things, including adjusting the time delay for the lights to turn off once exiting the car, adjusting if your keyless remote unlocks the driver and then the passenger doors on a second click, or all doors at once, and a few more settings like those. Is the adjustment of those settings retained when a factory head unit is added?

Truthfully, avoiding these potential problems is the reason I'll be using a few LOCs when upgrading my sound system in the next month or two.


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## fredmr (Dec 22, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I'm also in the Chicago area, in New Lenox specifically. Southwest suburbs just east of Joliet at the intersection of I-80 and I-355.
> 
> ...
> 
> ...


NW burbs here, but work closer by in Oakbrook Terrace. 

Yea, after rough approximations, I think this one is tuned to 44 Hz... just a temp though to give me some sound while I take the time to do it right. It does sound good enough to hold me over a month or two though. 

eDead has pleased me in the past (their thickest stuff) so I went ahead with them again. Unfortunately after placing my order, I discovered it was out of stock...so had their second thickest sent to me. It was when we were in the mid 40s and I was eager to install so I figured I'd just start from there and take care of the rest later/rip this stuff up if I choose to. Once I found out their better stuff was on backorder, I knew there were better options... but I wasn't sure what I wanted to go with and knew eD ships same day and delivers to my house next day, which allowed me to take advantage of the nicer weather weekend. 

I'll get back to ya on everything I edited out.


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