# Cooling Fan Not Working, Coolant 260F



## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Drove the Cruze to Las Vegas, has been winter back home so never noticed an issue. Now that it is 90F outside here my car is overheating in traffic. I was not watching gauge closely enough, it got up to 260F at one point just as the over temp message came up on screen. Got off road and shut down engine ASAP.

The radiator cooling fan is not turning on at all, it does turn freely by hand. The fuses visually appear to be good. Tried swapping relays, but the only two that are the same size both say they are cooling fan relays. Having trouble finding the cooling fan wiring in the harness to check the plug connection, and have no multi-meter to test with at the moment so could be anything. Luckily the coolant did not appear to be boiling, so the engine I hope is OK. 

Any ideas what else to check? May have to pick up a cheap multi-meter to test fan. 
No dealer open today. Any idea if the cooling fan is covered under powertrain warranty?

Thanks for any help or ideas.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Here is what I would do.

Disconnect the plug. On my 1.4L it is a three speed fan. Yellow is high speed. Grey is medium and white/blue is low speed.

If you connect a wire from the +ve batt terminal to any of the above terminals the fan should start. The wiring diagram shows the fan ground terminal as black and implies that it is a seperate wire.. It could be in the plug though, in that case you would need to jumper wires.

That will test the fan motor.. if it doesn't run then its a bad fan motor.

After that there are 5 relays.. hi speed, medium and low speed. Plus Cooling fan relay and cooling fan speed control relay..

You could then remove the fan high speed relay.. then jumper the sockets 87 and 30.. I.e take a short piece of wire, strip the ends and stuff the ends into the terminals where the relay plugs in (relay is removed at this point).

The fan will run continuously and you could drive home like that.

If the fan doesn't run then the only other thing left is the 60A fuse and the 250 fuse under the battery terminal cover it looks like.


a multimeter and a short piece of wire will get you home at least.


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

Anything that fails is covered, as long as it's within the warranty.
Although the dealership I came from, fixed my leaking heatercore issue (coolant) under the powertrain warranty (because it was the second time in a row I approached them for the same issue), they did say that normally it's not covered. and since the radiator fan is a step further away from the transmission, they won't be able to cover it under warranty.

However, replacing a radiator fan isn't that costly.
Go to a regular mechanic, and have him fetch one from the junk yard.
Plenty of spares around on the JY; or get one yourself, and ask any mechanic to install it, if you can't do it yourself.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Here is what I would do.
> 
> Disconnect the plug. On my 1.4L it is a three speed fan. Yellow is high speed. Grey is medium and white/blue is low speed.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply, I will have to get a hold of some wire and test this out. If I can get it to run and keep it jumpered out for now that would be good.
As long as I am on the highway moving it is keeping cool enough, just in town traffic with no movement it is a problem.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Ok I just tried bridging out terminal 87 and 30 on one of my cooling fan relays and the fan fired right up (with the ignition turned on).

Hard to find the high speed relay but if you pull the 60A fuse out then the volts will dissappear on terminal 87 on the relay that you need.. 

Then get some 10Ga wire and bridge the terminals and your fan should be running as long as the ignition is on. As the fuse is 60A you need a piece of beefy wire or make 2 or 3 parallel jumpers from thinner wire.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

ProDigit said:


> Anything that fails is covered, as long as it's within the warranty.
> Although the dealership I came from, fixed my leaking heatercore issue (coolant) under the powertrain warranty (because it was the second time in a row I approached them for the same issue), they did say that normally it's not covered. and since the radiator fan is a step further away from the transmission, they won't be able to cover it under warranty.
> 
> However, replacing a radiator fan isn't that costly.
> ...


If it will not be a covered warranty repair I will definitely be repairing it myself. Its just not something I can change while on the road. Looks like a new cooling fan assembly is $130 CAD at rockauto. Not to bad.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Ok I just tried bridging out terminal 87 and 30 on one of my cooling fan relays and the fan fired right up (with the ignition turned on).
> 
> Hard to find the high speed relay but if you pull the 60A fuse out then the volts will dissappear on terminal 87 on the relay that you need..
> 
> Then get some 10Ga wire and bridge the terminals and your fan should be running as long as the ignition is on. As the fuse is 60A you need a piece of beefy wire or make 2 or 3 parallel jumpers from thinner wire.


OK, thanks for trying this. I will have to see if the local auto parts store is open on this holiday and try to get some wire to test with. The fan was not running at all on any speed, but it likely was trying to run on max speed if it was that hot. I am thinking the fan should be good as no fuse has blown, had one fail on another vehicle and the fuse kept blowing.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Right.. either a wire has become disconnected or the brushes in the motor have disconnected.

I agree, probably it is trying to run on high speed, or one of the other control relays has gone down. There are two fairly beefy looking relays in mine.. so I assume these big ones are for the high and medium speed.

You can bridge any relay thats says cooling and it won't do any damage.. Would be nice to find the high speed one though.. and thats the only one that has a 60A fuse to terminal 87.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Right.. either a wire has become disconnected or the brushes in the motor have disconnected.
> 
> I agree, probably it is trying to run on high speed, or one of the other control relays has gone down. There are two fairly beefy looking relays in mine.. so I assume these big ones are for the high and medium speed.
> 
> You can bridge any relay thats says cooling and it won't do any damage.. Would be nice to find the high speed one though.. and thats the only one that has a 60A fuse to terminal 87.


OK, will check it out and post my findings. Thanks again. 

I have no idea how long it has been like this, it is cold enough at home all winter that it has never been able to overheat. It could have been down for months. Never did hear it kick in to high speed when parking during a regen. Used to get that at least a couple times in the winter. I did add a lower radiator hose heater in the late fall and I am wondering if I possibly disconnected a connector and missed plugging it back in? Have to look closer now that it has cooled down for the fan plug connector.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

*Helpful pics*

This is from the 1.4L Haynes manual. Hopefully yours is the same/similar.

Note the separate ground wire to the fan motor.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

OK I narrowed it down. The high speed fan relay is number 9, or K1. The 60A fuse is number 45

The medium speed relay is number 13 or k2.. The 30A fuse is number 42.

Assuming the diesel is the same as the 2012 1.4l turbo you now have all the info you need..


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> This is from the 1.4L Haynes manual. Hopefully yours is the same/similar.
> 
> Note the separate ground wire to the fan motor.


Thanks for the diagram, wow this things is more complex than I realized! No chance to guess how that worked without a diagram. 
Glad I am an electrician, may have half a chance. 

So far, I have not dug very far into troubleshooting just yet, have not got to the store to get wire or a tester. I will start by confirming that the fan motor still works, if so then I will work my way back to figure out what went wrong in this complex circuit. 

It appears from what is labeled in the fuse/relay box, that the wiring should be pretty much the same on the 2.0 as the 1.4. 

It appears to be a 3-speed fan with control relays designated as follows:

High Speed: Fan K1 Relay 13
Med Speed: Fan K2 Relay 09
Low Speed: Fan K3 Relay 10
Cooling Fan?: Fan K3' Relay 12
Speed Control?: Fan K7 Relay 03
IGN, 87 Main: Relay 07


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

TDCruze said:


> Thanks for the diagram, wow this things is more complex than I realized! No chance to guess how that worked without a diagram.
> Glad I am an electrician, may have half a chance.
> 
> So far, I have not dug very far into troubleshooting just yet, have not got to the store to get wire or a tester. I will start by confirming that the fan motor still works, if so then I will work my way back to figure out what went wrong in this complex circuit.
> ...


I’ll be on I-15 passing through Vegas around 3-5 pm today. Not a mechanic but I happen to have my toolbox so drop me a PM if I can be of any assistance tools-wise.

Good luck!!


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Rivergoer said:


> I’ll be on I-15 passing through Vegas around 3-5 pm today. Not a mechanic but I happen to have my toolbox so drop me a PM if I can be of any assistance tools-wise.
> 
> Good luck!!


Thanks, if I can't figure it out this morning and/or need further help or more tools I will gladly accept your offer! :rock:

It may help to have a working car to compare to as well... 

I usually bring a few more things with me when I travel, only thing I brought this time is a breaker bar and a socket to remove my lug nuts in case of a flat. Funny because I don't have a spare or a jack!


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> Thanks for the diagram, wow this things is more complex than I realized! No chance to guess how that worked without a diagram.
> Glad I am an electrician, may have half a chance.
> 
> So far, I have not dug very far into troubleshooting just yet, have not got to the store to get wire or a tester. I will start by confirming that the fan motor still works, if so then I will work my way back to figure out what went wrong in this complex circuit.
> ...



According to what I found on line you have the high/med speed relays back to front.

High speed is K1.. but that is relay 9.... not 13... Its controlling fuse is number 45.

Med speed is k2.. that is relay 13... controlling fuse is 42


But you're right the fuse box lid indicates the opposite to the above.

Either way though the 60A fuse is the one that feeds the high speed relay. As you say, its either the fan motor/wiring or something else.

if the fan motor is good you can at least get rolling with a jumper wire.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

OK I went back and checked again.. What I found on line was incorrect.. the med speed and high speed are swapped.. What you have is correct.

Just for a laugh I marked up my relays and also took a pic of the jumper on the high speed relay. Of course the fan runs whether the ignition is on or not.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> OK I went back and checked again.. What I found on line was incorrect.. the med speed and high speed are swapped.. What you have is correct.
> 
> Just for a laugh I marked up my relays and also took a pic of the jumper on the high speed relay. Of course the fan runs whether the ignition is on or not.


I could not get the high or med speed to work by jumpering them at the relay terminals. I had 12V at each relay so the fuses are good. Maybe wire was not in far enough, but pretty sure it was. I also tried to pull apart the fan connector but could not get it apart, tight spot. After driving with the A/C on I found the fan to be running on low speed and the coolant temperature stayed around 190 with no issue. 

So, with the A/C and fan running I started pulling relays. None of the "fan" relays shut down the fan at low speed? I had 5 relays pulled out, finally took out the A/C compressor relay. That shut down the compressor, but the fan kept running until I shut off the A/C inside the car. So, I am not sure how this low speed is wired? 

It would seem that the high and medium speed is not working still and that may have been the problem yesterday. It got a bit warmer than low speed set point, went to medium or high and those did not work causing my overheating yesterday.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Looking closer at your fuse box it would appear that my Relay 10 is in backwards... I am thinking this could be a problem. Way to go GM for making the relay reversible. (ignore the red wire, it is for my fog lights)

View attachment 259345


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

A common problem with the Gen1 gassers is the resistor pack that turns the fan into a 3-speed fan. The fan will work at high speed, but nothing else. But the resistor is sold as part of the fan assembly. Which may be just as well since there's a good chance that a bad fan motor is what caused it to fail in the first place.

How much of that applies to a diesel, I don't know.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Sadly the function of relay 10 is the same no matter which way round its installed.. I just checked and the circuits are cross connected.

However I did get access to the fan motor terminals. you could take a jumper wire from the battery positive and go direct to the three terminals shown. The right terminal with a scorch mark is a ground.. ask me how I found that out..

The little cover pops off if you insert the screwdriver as shown.. There is a little dab of glue that seems unecessary to hold it down as well.

If the fan don't run with direct jumpering i'd say you're into a new fan.

Oh I did get the big connector halfway off with levering and swearing.. but it was starting to break.. its almost like its glued on. Clearly though its just the plastic lever at the top of the pics is pressed down (towards you) and then pushing the connector downwards.. Mostly by using a screwdriver in the place shown and on the other side.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Sadly the function of relay 10 is the same no matter which way round its installed.. I just checked and the circuits are cross connected.
> 
> However I did get access to the fan motor terminals. you could take a jumper wire from the battery positive and go direct to the three terminals shown. The right terminal with a scorch mark is a ground.. ask me how I found that out..
> 
> ...


OK, didn't figure that relay backwards was the main problem anyway. I will try and get to that connector again, but its pretty tight on the diesel and seems a bit lower down than yours. It looks like that may be a resistor pack that the connector plugs into to make the fan run slower. I am wondering if maybe that is the issue as the motor does still run. 



ChevyGuy said:


> A common problem with the Gen1 gassers is the resistor pack that turns the fan into a 3-speed fan. The fan will work at high speed, but nothing else. But the resistor is sold as part of the fan assembly. Which may be just as well since there's a good chance that a bad fan motor is what caused it to fail in the first place.
> 
> How much of that applies to a diesel, I don't know.


I have had this happen on a Cobalt with the heater fan, lost the 3 lower speeds but high still worked. Changed the resistor pack and all was good 
Its funny because only the low speed works not the high speed. Still likely as you say the whole assembly will need to be replaced if anything is wrong with that part.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Good to hear you’ll be ok for the trip home @TDCruze 

Man, after driving through Vegas today I understand how overheating was an issue. I-15 is all torn up and heavy traffic for sure. 

Will avoid that route for the next year if I can possibly do so. 

Keep us us posted on the ultimate fix.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> OK, didn't figure that relay backwards was the main problem anyway. I will try and get to that connector again, but its pretty tight on the diesel and seems a bit lower down than yours. It looks like that may be a resistor pack that the connector plugs into to make the fan run slower. I am wondering if maybe that is the issue as the motor does still run.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I would still jumper from the battery to the high speed terminal under the little cover (which pops off easily). If the fan does not run at high speed when you do this then something is wrong with the connections within the resistor pack.

if it does run at high speed then something is amis with the wiring.. i.e the high speed relay is not switching.. You jumpered the relay and it did not run, so it would only be the wring/connections between the relay and the fan left.

Jumpering direct to the fan terminal will tell you if the fan/resistor pack is at fault of not

Also make sure you have a ground to the fan.. the right terminal is a ground so you could jumper that direct to the negative batt terminal.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> I would still jumper from the battery to the high speed terminal under the little cover (which pops off easily). If the fan does not run at high speed when you do this then something is wrong with the connections within the resistor pack.
> 
> if it does run at high speed then something is amis with the wiring.. i.e the high speed relay is not switching.. You jumpered the relay and it did not run, so it would only be the wring/connections between the relay and the fan left.
> 
> ...


Thanks again for all the help troubleshooting this! ccasion14:

I am going to take one more look at it tomorrow and see if I can get to the fan connector/resistor terminals. It may have to wait until I get home and have more time and tools. There is some stuff in the way that may need to be removed. I was wondering about the ground as well, until the low speed started working today. I would think the ground is OK since the fan was running? 

It would be nice to see if I can get it to work or confirm what the issue is before I get on the road again. If not as long as the low speed hangs in there and I watch it close I should be OK to get home. 



Rivergoer said:


> Good to hear you’ll be ok for the trip home @*TDCruze*
> 
> Man, after driving through Vegas today I understand how overheating was an issue. I-15 is all torn up and heavy traffic for sure.
> 
> ...


Yeah, there is a fair bit of construction going on in the area.

Will keep everyone updated as to what the findings are with the cooling fan and the solution.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

yes if you can get to that little cap on top it pops off pretty easily.

I'd be more concerned that if the thing goes into hi fan mode but the fan don't work then the fan will probably not run at all.. Because low fan would not be enough.

This is weird though because if the resistor pack was down you would expect the fan to run in hi speed and nothing else.

You have already bridged out the terminals on the hi speed relay and it didn't run.. but it does run in low speed mode.. this is very odd.

Its not impossible that its the connections in the bottom of the relay box (apparently these do go down).. So jumpering directly to the fan would at least confirm the fan is working.

Heck, if it IS working I think I would buy a switch and a length of wire and maybe connect terminal from the fuse on say the med speed relay (30A).. run it into the car, through the switch and back out to the fan med speed terminal.. I think.. you could probably jam it under the fan terminal if you can get to it.

Then you could manually run the fan in med speed mode if the fan works.

My suspicion is the resister box in the fan has somehow gone open circuit.. even though this seems like a curious failure mode


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> yes if you can get to that little cap on top it pops off pretty easily.
> 
> I'd be more concerned that if the thing goes into hi fan mode but the fan don't work then the fan will probably not run at all.. Because low fan would not be enough.
> 
> ...



Yeah, it seems to be an unusual failure. Not knowing how the internals of the resister pack are wired, I couldn't guess in what ways it could fail. If it gets replaced I will have to tear it apart and see how it works. 

For now I will see if I can rewire or jumper it out to make it run constantly, so that I avoid any risk of overheating again. I will drive it as is if I have too. If I keep it moving it seems to be OK. Counting on the low speed fan to stay running is a gamble. If I watch the temp closely I should be able to avoid a repeat of the previous overheating to 260F. I am still surprised that the OEM gauge reads "normal" or half way until about 260F then jumps right to 3/4 with an overtemp warning message. There is not much warning or time to react without an aftermarket gauge.

Once this is all repaired, I think I may spring for an oil analysis just to make sure there was no damage from the hot engine temps.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Any updates on this?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Any updates on this?


Tried jumpering the fan again still could not get it to work. Still working on low speed with A/C on. Really cannot do much with almost no tools in a parking garage. Going to try to press on with the journey and hope we can make it home without any further overheating problems. 

Will update once home and can do a better diagnostic on the problem.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

did you actually get to the terminals on the fan?.. If so sounds like post mortem surgery on the resistor pack is called for..


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> did you actually get to the terminals on the fan?.. If so sounds like post mortem surgery on the resistor pack is called for..


I am pretty sure I got the test wire on the terminals of the relay. Could not get to the fan connector cover, mine seems different than yours. The plug is a bit lower and the cover is parallel to the fan not perpendicular. I took a pic but it is hard to see, it is under the yellow oil dipstick handle. I am fairly confident it is the fan/resistor that is the issue.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

well the fan runs on low speed and you bridged out the hi and med speed relays.. so its either the connectors/wiring in the base of the fuse box or its the fan resistors or internal connections.

Nothing else left.

Haul that fan out on the bench.. heck you might even be able to repair it..


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Rivergoer said:


> Good to hear you’ll be ok for the trip home @*TDCruze*
> 
> Man, after driving through Vegas today I understand how overheating was an issue. I-15 is all torn up and heavy traffic for sure.
> 
> ...


Are they finally working on that spaghetti bowl? 

It was announced 4 years ago and was supposed to have started at that time and last 5 years to the tune of $20 billion. This would have been year #4. 

I left long haul almost 2 years ago and nothing was started then.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

snowwy66 said:


> Are they finally working on that spaghetti bowl?
> 
> It was announced 4 years ago and was supposed to have started at that time and last 5 years to the tune of $20 billion. This would have been year #4.
> 
> I left long haul almost 2 years ago and nothing was started then.


Seems like there’s been perpetual construction ongoing at I-15 and the 515 for years now. I last passed through there in January and thought the project was finally coming to an end. 

Then this week I noticed it’s really taken off with a vengeance. Several sections of Southbound I-15 are completely demolished. All Southbound traffic is routed onto the Northbound side. It narrows down to 2 lanes at one point so it’s constantly jammed. 

Like you said, it looks like a multi-year project so I’m going to avoid that route as much as possible for awhile.

@*TDCruze* hope you have a trouble-free remainder of your trip. @*frankh* good job on all the help!


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> well the fan runs on low speed and you bridged out the hi and med speed relays.. so its either the connectors/wiring in the base of the fuse box or its the fan resistors or internal connections.
> 
> Nothing else left.
> 
> Haul that fan out on the bench.. heck you might even be able to repair it..


I would think changing the resistor pack would solve the issue, but it does not seem to be sold separately. The fan running quietly and smoothly on low tells me the motor must still be good.

I am just trying to decide if I want to order then fan assembly now or wait to do a bit more testing to be certain. It would be nice to have the part there almost by the time I get back. But if I am wrong returning would be expensive. 

It looks like it could be a bear to get that fan out, it is real tight in there. I am thinking I may have to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold. 




snowwy66 said:


> Are they finally working on that spaghetti bowl?
> 
> It was announced 4 years ago and was supposed to have started at that time and last 5 years to the tune of $20 billion. This would have been year #4.
> 
> I left long haul almost 2 years ago and nothing was started then.


It is underway now, I guess better late than never. There are a bunch of detours to other ramps still now. It looks to me like a lot has been done already though. I was on it last 8 years ago and I really don't remember what it looked like then, so I can't say how much has changed since then.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

The cooling fan on the diesel is controlled by the PCM through pulse modulated voltage - totally different than the gas engine.









[h=3]2014 Chevrolet Cruze 2.0L Eng VIN Z Diesel[/h] 


Print Date: 4/4/2018



[h=2]Cooling Fan Inoperative (LUZ)[/h] [h=3]Diagnostic Instructions[/h] 

Perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle prior to using this diagnostic procedure.
Review Strategy Based Diagnosis for an overview of the diagnostic approach.
Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.
 
[h=3]Circuit/System Description[/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one electric cooling fan and a cooling fan control module. The engine control module (ECM) controls the fan speed by sending a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the cooling fan control module. The cooling fan control module varies the voltage drop across the cooling fan motor in relation to the pulse width modulated signal, which enables cooling fan operation at variable speeds. The cooling fan control module is thermally protected to prevent module damage in the case of a short circuit condition in the cooling fan motor.

[h=3]Diagnostic Aids[/h] 

A delay or ramp up of approximately 12 seconds may occur before the cooling fan activates or changes speed when being commanded with a scan tool.
 
[h=3]Reference Information[/h] Schematic Reference
Engine Heating/Cooling Schematics
Connector End View Reference
COMPONENT CONNECTOR END VIEWS - INDEX
Description and Operation
Cooling Fan Description and Operation (Gas), Cooling Fan Description and Operation (Diesel)
Electrical Information Reference


Circuit Testing
Connector Repairs
Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections
Wiring Repairs
 Scan Tool Reference
Control Module References for scan tool information

[h=3]Circuit/System Verification[/h] 

Ignition ON.
Verify that DTC P0480, P0691 or P0692, is not set.
If a DTC is setRefer to DTC P0480, P0691 or P0692 (LUZ).
 
If no DTC is set.
 
Verify the G10 Cooling Fan Motor activates and increases in speed with each command using a scan tool.NOTE: A slight delay may occur before the cooling fan activates.


The cooling fan does not activate or increase in speedRefer to Circuit/System Testing
 
The cooling fan activates and increases in speed
 
All OK.
 
[h=3]Circuit/System Testing[/h] 

Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the G10 Cooling Fan Motor.
Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the ground circuit terminal 4 and B+.
If the test lamp does not illuminate
 
Ignition OFF, remove the test lamp.
Test for less than 2 Ω in the ground circuit end to end.
If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit.
If less than 2 Ω, repair the open/high resistance in the ground connection.
 
 
If the test lamp illuminates
 
Test or replace the G10 Cooling Fan Motor.
 
[h=3]Repair Instructions[/h] Perform the Diagnostic Repair Verification after completing the diagnostic procedure.


Engine Coolant Fan Replacement
Control Module References


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

[h=3]2014 Chevrolet Cruze 2.0L Eng VIN Z Diesel[/h] 


Print Date: 4/4/2018



[h=2]Circuit/System Description [ Cooling Fan Always On (LUV, LUW or LWE) ][/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one cooling fan, a series of 5 relays, the engine control module (ECM) and the associated wiring. The cooling fan assembly includes two resistors. This combination of components enables the ECM to operate the cooling fan at 3 speeds using two fan control circuits.
[h=2]Circuit/System Description [ Cooling Fan Always On (LUZ) ][/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one electric cooling fan and a cooling fan control module. The engine control module (ECM) controls the fan speed by sending a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the cooling fan control module. The cooling fan control module varies the voltage drop across the cooling fan motor in relation to the pulse width modulated signal, which enables cooling fan operation at variable speeds. The cooling fan control module is thermally protected to prevent module damage in the case of a short circuit condition in the cooling fan motor.
[h=2]Circuit/System Description [ Cooling Fan Inoperative (LUV, LUW or LWE) ][/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one cooling fan, a series of 5 relays, the engine control module (ECM) and the associated wiring. The cooling fan assembly includes two resistors. This combination of components enables the ECM to operate the cooling fan at 3 speeds using two fan control circuits.
[h=2]Circuit/System Description [ Cooling Fan Inoperative (LUZ) ][/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one electric cooling fan and a cooling fan control module. The engine control module (ECM) controls the fan speed by sending a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the cooling fan control module. The cooling fan control module varies the voltage drop across the cooling fan motor in relation to the pulse width modulated signal, which enables cooling fan operation at variable speeds. The cooling fan control module is thermally protected to prevent module damage in the case of a short circuit condition in the cooling fan motor.
[h=2]Cooling Fan[/h] The cooling fan is mounted behind the radiator in the engine compartment. The engine cooling fan is driven by electric power. The cooling fan draws air through the radiator to improve the transfer of heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. As the fan blades spin, they increase the flow of air across the radiator core and across the condenser on air condition (A/C) equipped vehicles. This helps to speed cooling when the vehicle is at idle or moving at low speeds.
[h=2]Cooling Fan Description and Operation (Diesel)[/h] [h=3]Cooling Fan Control[/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one electric cooling fan and a control module, which is part of the cooling fan and motor assembly. The engine control module (ECM) controls the fan speed by sending a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the cooling fan control module. The cooling fan control module varies the voltage drop across the cooling fan motor in relation to the pulse width modulated signal, which allows the cooling fan to operate at variable speeds.
The cooling fan speed is effected by many different conditions and the ECM will adjust the duty cycle from 0-100 percent based on cooling system requirements. The scan tool output control is only capable of operating the cooling fan increments, between 10-90 percent. 90 percent is considered high speed fan. When multiple cooling fan speed requests are received, the ECM operates the fan at the highest of speed requests. The ECM commands the fans ON under the following conditions:


The engine coolant temperature is warmer than a predetermined temperature.
The engine oil temperature is warmer than a predetermined temperature.
The A/C pressure reaches a predetermined pressure.
If the engine coolant temperature at key-off is warmer than a predetermined value or the A/C pressure is greater than a predetermined value, the cooling fan will operate at a low speed. The fan will shut OFF if the temperature or pressure drops below the predetermined value, but will only operate for 2 minutes, regardless of the coolant temperature or A/C pressure.
 
[h=2]Cooling Fan Description and Operation (Gas)[/h] The engine cooling fan system is composed of one cooling fan, a series of 5 relays, the engine control module (ECM) and the associated wiring. The cooling fan assembly includes two resistors. This combination of components enables the ECM to operate the cooling fan at 3 speeds using two fan control circuits.
Low Speed Operation
The ECM applies ground at the FAN 1 control circuit for the coil side of the cooling fan relay. The energized cooling fan relay completes a ground, through the switch side of the relay, for the coils of the cooling fan low speed relay and the cooling fan speed control relay. The speed control relay activates and supplies B+ to the coil side of the cooling fan high speed relay. The high speed relay remains inactive because the ECM is not commanding the FAN 2 control circuit ON. The energized low speed relay switch closes to supply B+ through the internal low speed resistor of the engine cooling fan motor. The result is cooling fan operation at a reduced speed.
Medium Speed Operation
The ECM applies ground at the FAN 2 control circuit for the coil side of the cooling fan high speed and medium speed relays. The high speed relay remains inactive because the ECM is not commanding the FAN 1 control circuit ON. The energized medium speed relay switch closes to supply B+ through the internal medium speed resistor of the engine cooling fan motor. The result is cooling fan operation at a medium speed.
High Speed Operation
The ECM applies ground at the FAN 1 control circuit for the coil side of the cooling fan relay. The energized cooling fan relay completes a ground, through the switch side of the relay, for the coil of the cooling fan speed control relay. The energized speed control relay switch closes to supply B+ to the coil side of cooling fan high speed relay. Simultaneously, the ECM applies ground at the FAN 2 control circuit for the coil side of the cooling fan high speed relay. The energized high speed relay switch closes to supply B+ directly to the engine cooling fan motor, by-passing the fans internal resistors. The result is cooling fan operation at full speed.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)




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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Its a PWM controller?.. Well then your right its totally different.

Interestingly though the OP described the same relays as what is in the Gas engine fuse box.. According to the above circuit there is no reason for these to be there..Maybe they just install them but they don't do anything?

In that case if the fan is running on low speed then either the PWM controller is not getting the right signal.. or the PWM controller doesn't work.

Why the heck did they put a PWM controller on a fan? You put PWM circuits on motors that need high torque at low speed.. as the torque requirement falls off rapidly (like speed is proportional to torque^3) there is no need for a PWM controller.

Weird application.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

I can't answer why it's that way. I do know on my CTS (OB2 monitor), is shows the percentage of fan on. It starts at 9% at 212F and goes up from there - of course also jumps up with the AC. I've never seen it past 55%. I've you hook a bi-directional scanner on it and command 100%, the fan runs faster than I have ever heard it run

I was wondering about the OP saying he had the relays as well. I haven't looked at mine. It is strange.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

it will also be a giant pain to fault find as well because the only way to command the speed to increase is to send the PWM a speed signal.. Which means you would need a signal generator or at least an oscilloscope to monitor the existing signal. I guess thats what a bi-directional scanner does.. I have never seen one of those.

I think I'd be tempted to install a $30 stand alone temperature controller from Rock Auto and bypass the PWM (assuming you can get into it). Rockauto appear to only list such a device for the diesel.. not a PWM controlled fan.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Thanks Cruzator for the new information. Its a lot to take in. 

Definitely looks like I will have to do some more testing now to see what is happening. I don't think my low end scan tool allows me to turn the fan on nor see or adjust its speed. It may have to go to the dealer to get checked out. 

Any idea what type of scan tool I could buy that would provide this function? 

Yes, I do seem to have the relays for the 3-speed fan, same as the gas Cruze apparently has. I do not know why GM would put them in if they were not used. However, it would make sense why I could not successfully jumper the fan at the relays and why the fan kept running will all 5 cooling fan relays removed.

The fan definitely was not running at all with the coolant temp at over 250F with the engine idling. No DTC's so far. The fan should have been screaming at that temperature. Unless there is another temperature sensor that controls the fan speed separate from the main ECT sensor? Or the variable speed controller is not functioning properly. I wonder if this part can be replaced separately? Where is this controller located, on the fan?

Made it to Flagstaff without any further issues, highest temp I saw today was 217F but I was able to keep moving with no real traffic.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

@TDCruze some pix of my ‘14 CTD (U.S.) to compare when u get home. Happy Trails!


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Rivergoer said:


> @*TDCruze* some pix of my ‘14 CTD (U.S.) to compare when u get home. Happy Trails!
> 
> View attachment 259721
> View attachment 259722
> View attachment 259730


Interesting, I can see right away that you do not have the 5 fan relays I have in my box. Or the extra fan fuses. Only the single 60A fuse as described by Cruzator's documentation. 

I am wondering why mine seems to have the fusebox from a gas Cruze? Build line error?


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

@boraz ... got a pic you can share of your Canadian Gen 1 CTD fuse box? 

Curious if yours matches @TDCruze ‘s...


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Rivergoer said:


> @*boraz* ... got a pic you can share of your Canadian Gen 1 CTD fuse box?
> 
> Curious if yours matches @*TDCruze* ‘s...


There was another thread:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-g...stuck-constantly-even-all-relays-removed.html

The OP had replaced the cooling fan on their Diesel and mentioned pulling relays and fan was stuck on as they apparently got a gas Cruze replacement fan. Not sure where they were from. 

This would then mean that the controller is in fact part of the fan assembly just as the resistor pack is in the gas model. The down side is if I have to replace it, it will be much more expensive than the fan for the gas model. 

Best I can find from a GM dealer in Canada is:



*Engine Cooling Fan Motor. Fan & motor. FAN ASSY.*

For your 2014 Chevrolet Cruze Diesel 2.0L Clean Turbo Diesel DIESEL A/T

Part Number: 13338843
2.0 LITER TURBO; Incl.Fan Blade
Buick; Chevrolet

Your Price$ 918.62 CAD


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Just a guess but I wonder if the Canadian Cruze Diesel uses the same set up as the gasser's in the US?... Lets compare fuse boxes to see. I just don't buy they would put those relays in there for no reason.

I wouldn't take it to the dealer just yet.. see if you can pop that little cover off and see if the output of the relays is wired directly to the terminals on the fan.. simple continuity test.

4 terminals left is high next one over will be low.. third one medium and the one on the right is ground.

Might be able to get the fan out and see whats behind that plug.. Apparently the resistor pack and PWM controller comes built into the fan.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Just a guess but I wonder if the Canadian Cruze Diesel uses the same set up as the gasser's in the US?... Lets compare fuse boxes to see. I just don't buy they would put those relays in there for no reason.
> 
> I wouldn't take it to the dealer just yet.. see if you can pop that little cover off and see if the output of the relays is wired directly to the terminals on the fan.. simple continuity test.
> 
> ...


I am pretty sure my fan is a bit different than on your gas model, I don't seem to have that cover that you removed from your resistor pack.

It does also seem that the relays don't do anything, as I could not get the fan to stop even with them all removed. I never did try pulling the 60A fuse, but that should stop it. I will definitely be pulling up the fuse box to see if there are wires on the underside that go to the relays not. I am curious why they put the relays and fuses in if they are not used? 

I think it would be really nice to get a hold of a scan tool that can manipulate the fan speed rate to test if it is operating at all speed ranges or not. It seems strange that it would operate at a low speed but not a high speed, if it is an electronic controller it should either work or not work. 

That is why I am wondering if there is a different temperature sensor input for the fan control? Maybe its not reading as hot as it should keeping the fan from speeding up?


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> There was another thread:
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-g...stuck-constantly-even-all-relays-removed.html
> 
> The OP had replaced the cooling fan on their Diesel and mentioned pulling relays and fan was stuck on as they apparently got a gas Cruze replacement fan. Not sure where they were from.
> ...


Yeah no way I would spend over $900 on a stupid fan.. Heck, $30 temperature controller from Rock auto and some wiring skills should fix it for cheap.

Besides, you don't know if it is the PWM contoller or the device that generates the speed signal thats at fault.. Which means a trip to the $tealership. I would never go there out of principle..

Pull the fan out when you get home to find out exactly what you got in there. You should be able to tell by simply comparing the wire colours on each of the circuit diagrams you now have and seeing where the outputs of each of those relays is wired too.

Should be a fun investigation..


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Here we go.. If there is a connection between terminal 30 on the high speed relay and the high terminal on the fan plug (when you pull it off) or under the little cover. (same for the med speed). Well then its NOT a PWM controller.. If there is no connection.. Well you have the US diesel set up.. sadly.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> I am pretty sure my fan is a bit different than on your gas model, I don't seem to have that cover that you removed from your resistor pack.
> 
> It does also seem that the relays don't do anything, as I could not get the fan to stop even with them all removed. I never did try pulling the 60A fuse, but that should stop it. I will definitely be pulling up the fuse box to see if there are wires on the underside that go to the relays not. I am curious why they put the relays and fuses in if they are not used?
> 
> ...


Yeah I looked on line for a scan tool and it looks like you'd be into a $300 tool to do what you need.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

What's the link to that $300? Please. I might be interested.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Yeah no way I would spend over $900 on a stupid fan.. Heck, $30 temperature controller from Rock auto and some wiring skills should fix it for cheap.
> 
> Besides, you don't know if it is the PWM contoller or the device that generates the speed signal thats at fault.. Which means a trip to the $tealership. I would never go there out of principle..
> 
> ...


I hope it does not come down to a huge bill, starting to second guess turning down the extended warranty... lol

It is possible that it could be an ECM issue too, that will not be cheap either. Or the controller not working, or the ECM is not getting the proper input to operate the fan properly. Still think the fan motor itself is good. 

I does look like it is an interesting problem to figure out. I just wish it wasn't my problem. :rotate:

I wonder why GM changed to such a more complex and expensive fan control method on the Diesel's? Seems the standard 3-speed relay/resistor controlled fan from the gas Cruze would have worked just as well, and a heck of a lot easier to troubleshoot! 

Would rather spend $300 on a scan gauge than $300 at the dealer any day. I find any money spent on a scan gauge is usually well worth the investment in the long run. Wish I had bought a higher end one before, just have a lower end on now. I can see most or all the sensor outputs, but could not seem to find anything related to the cooling fan. 



snowwy66 said:


> What's the link to that $300? Please. I might be interested.


I second that! Interested in what scan tool you have found that would work for this?


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

I did a brief google search but when I looked closer I found it was not easy to determine if they would work or not.. Some say "bi-directional" but then list one or two specific functions and nothing else.

Ok how about this for a possible solution (I'm an engineer and thinking out of the box is what I was paid to do.. before I retired).

Say you can't find a solution and you're on the verge of going to the dealer. Rather than spend $1000+, what if you go buy an aftermarket fan and install it on the front side of the radiator (assuming its flat).. Then control it with one of those $30 aftermarket temp sensor/relay deals at Rockauto. They even list it as a part for the cruze diesel, which it isn't of course.

Then you would leave the existing fan in place which will work for the AC on low speed, but the new fan would start on the new temperature controller.. like on/off like fans have been doing for the last 20 years.

Its a $150 solution that should last the life of the car.

Disclaimer... Because I don't really care too much about my resale value I would probably just use the aftermarket controller on the existing fan and bypass this whole PWM nonsense completely and just have an on/off fan.

Here is one of many examples https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flex-a-lite-31147-Electric-Fan-Temperature-Switch-/201085316050

I'd probably use the controller to switch one of those spare relays then feed that to the fan after you bypass the PWM


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

@*frankh* I have a 2006 F-150 and after an engine swap I installed dual electric cooling fans in place of the OEM belt driven fan. I am using one of those $30 thermostatic fan controllers with dual relays. It works well and even comes on when the A/C compressor is running. The only thing I don't like is the fans are 100% full speed when on so they scream. I should try to install some resistors to slow/quiet them down a bit. 

I don't know if I would want to go that route on my Cruze though. I would prefer to fix it, but if its going to be over $1000 to fix I may reconsider. I would think that I should be able to use the OEM fan, and then use a thermostatic controller to the relay as you said. 

The Dealer should be able to test/troubleshoot in an hour I would think? At least I would know what to fix and how much it would be.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

yeah i wonder if you can get a 2 stage controller.. use the low stage (and a resistor) to run the fan at med speed.. high stage (no resistor) for high speed.

That would be quite elegant.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> Thanks Cruzator for the new information. Its a lot to take in.
> 
> Definitely looks like I will have to do some more testing now to see what is happening. I don't think my low end scan tool allows me to turn the fan on nor see or adjust its speed. It may have to go to the dealer to get checked out.
> 
> ...


The scan tool that was hooked up to mine was from Matco (it was my son's). I'm guessing it costs over $2000. Definitely something you want to borrow, if possible. I'm sure there are cheaper out there.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

Does anybody know if Snipesy's biscan for GM with Torque App will do this? @Snipesy


https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=guru.surreal.gmexpandedpids


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Cruzator said:


> Does anybody know if Snipesy's biscan for GM with Torque App will do this? @*Snipesy*
> 
> 
> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=guru.surreal.gmexpandedpids



It does not. Maybe someday.


$443 on gmparts direct though....

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-fan-and-motor-13338843

also this maybe... $360 at rock auto. Not sure what it looks like from Canada.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4208625&jsn=8


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Yeah that rock auto one looks correct. At $360 plus shipping I'd say that's a steal compared to the normal $900. I'm not sure how long it'll last. I'd make a pretty big wager replacing the controller (which is with the motor), is going to fix your issue.


If you have issues getting it from Canada. Perhaps a forum member could proxy it for you. Even I can.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Well, made it home no more overheating issues while on the highway, but climbing a mountain in Colorado even with temps in the 30's it was getting close to 230F. 

One speeding ticket for the trip... 



Snipesy said:


> It does not. Maybe someday.
> 
> $443 on gmparts direct though....
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info.

It looks like that fan on RockAuto is $462 CAD plus $26 shipping. So not the end of the world I guess. 
I still may take it in to confirm the diagnosis as I have no way to test the PWM from the ECM or if the fan is receiving the signal.


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

Is it worth look for a used part?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

frankh said:


> Is it worth look for a used part?


It may be possible to find one? 
Haven't looked yet. 
The diesel is such a low production car it may be hard to find, but it may be worth a look.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

TDCruze said:


> Well, made it home no more overheating issues while on the highway, but climbing a mountain in Colorado even with temps in the 30's it was getting close to 230F.
> 
> One speeding ticket for the trip...
> 
> ...


Glad you made it home. Bummer about the speeding ticket. FWIW, I hit 220-230 everyday going over a mountain pass in Colorado - even when it's very cold out. If it's above 50 ambient, it runs cooler as the shutters open at 217. Once below 50, the shutters never seem to open, even when engine coolant is 230. The temp gauge doesn't move from it's normal position. I guess that's why the cooling system has a 20 lbs cap.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

$237.60 USD on Gm Parts Direct right now.
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-p...5PTIwMTUmdD1kaWVzZWwmZT0yLTBsLWw0LWRpZXNlbA==


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## frankh (Aug 25, 2014)

sailurman said:


> $237.60 USD on Gm Parts Direct right now.
> https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-p...5PTIwMTUmdD1kaWVzZWwmZT0yLTBsLWw0LWRpZXNlbA==


That appears to be the radiator.. fan on the same site is listed at $437.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Cruzator said:


> Glad you made it home. Bummer about the speeding ticket. FWIW, I hit 220-230 everyday going over a mountain pass in Colorado - even when it's very cold out. If it's above 50 ambient, it runs cooler as the shutters open at 217. Once below 50, the shutters never seem to open, even when engine coolant is 230. The temp gauge doesn't move from it's normal position. I guess that's why the cooling system has a 20 lbs cap.


I was wondering at what temp the shutters open up at. Seems to me like they should open regardless if the coolant temp gets to hot, say 230. 

As for the cooling fan, I have yet to do anything about it. I have still not decided if I will take it in yet or just order the part.
During my normal commute driving mostly on the highway, I have had no issues with temperature at all. Typically staying below 210.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

I'd just run a couple of jumper wires from battery to fan if possible. See if the fan works that way first.


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## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

@TDCruze, Do you know what temperature the coolant temp gauge starts moving off it's "normal" position. I've had my car up to 234 degrees, and the temp gauge still was parked in the normal position.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Cruzator said:


> @*TDCruze*, Do you know what temperature the coolant temp gauge starts moving off it's "normal" position. I've had my car up to 234 degrees, and the temp gauge still was parked in the normal position.


I was not watching the car gauge real close when it happened, but I think it was around 260. That is when the engine temp warning came up on the DIC. It was then I noticed that the temp gauge had moved to 3/4 position. It was not at Hot yet. It could have moved sooner than 260 though. Unfortunately, I did not watch that gauge real close when cooling down the engine either.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

frankh said:


> That appears to be the radiator.. fan on the same site is listed at $437.


DOH!!! My bad:tututtongue4:


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Did you ever identify the cause/problem? I am having the same issue, fan on low with a/c, but no medium or high and got the "a/c off due to high engine temp." No codes or pending codes. Sounds like I am having the same issue you experienced. Checked my fan motor, 5 resistors, and 3 fuses, all good. I did not check the ignition relay, #7, does that only control the radiator fan? I assume that controls other items, so I did not check that relay. Any help would be appreciated.


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## DieselCruze14 (Dec 17, 2018)

I am having same issues but fan is not coming on at all and ac does not blow cold. Clutch is in-gauging. Motor is not overheating at this time. Drive mostly on HWY.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

I never did get this fan problem figured out. 
Most likely it is the fan controller that has failed, which is built into the fan itself. 
The gamble is whether or not you want to buy the replacement fan and hope it works after or take it to the dealer to confirm the cause.


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## sparkola (Jun 9, 2014)

The real question is, if you replace the fan yourself, do you still need to take it to the dealership to have the module that may or may not be built into the fan reprogrammed so that the ECM can talk to it like those stupid Body side monitors do? I’m having this problem now too.


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## sparkola (Jun 9, 2014)

Did anybody else ever have this problem fixed and what was the cause or solution?


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I did not replace my fan yet, but have not had any problems since the one time it happened. My issue I am "thinking" is one of two things, brushes in the motor got stuck and when I tapped the motor with my hammer handle, I freed them. Or, maybe the more likely related to what you (sparkola) are suggesting, that the ECM had to go through a "re-learn" process because I had replaced the thermostat not too long before I had the problem. Again, only happened one time, has been good since. Unfortunately, since it only occurred one time, very tough to say for sure what was or is wrong.


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## shabeer ali (Mar 30, 2016)

TDCruze said:


> Drove the Cruze to Las Vegas, has been winter back home so never noticed an issue. Now that it is 90F outside here my car is overheating in traffic. I was not watching gauge closely enough, it got up to 260F at one point just as the over temp message came up on screen. Got off road and shut down engine ASAP.
> 
> The radiator cooling fan is not turning on at all, it does turn freely by hand. The fuses visually appear to be good. Tried swapping relays, but the only two that are the same size both say they are cooling fan relays. Having trouble finding the cooling fan wiring in the harness to check the plug connection, and have no multi-meter to test with at the moment so could be anything. Luckily the coolant did not appear to be boiling, so the engine I hope is OK.
> 
> ...


Hi, 

I faced a different issue with the harness at the bottom of the engine coming from fuse box to the cooling fan, there is a joint (socket connection) in between and it got rusted due to exposure to the dirt on the road, not at all protected to the weather conditions, some how the connector got loose while i tried to put up a new horn to the car...my point is when ever you have an issue with your cars cooling fan, kindly check the harness from the start to end (all the way from the bottom of fuse box to the connector on the fan housing) it can save you a lot i hope...


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