# New OZTuner 30 hp tune on my Cruze!!!



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Hi All,

Yesterday morning, before heading home from the Ultimate Callout Challenge diesel event in Indy, I stopped by OZTuner and flashed my 2015 Cruze Diesel with their 30 hp tune. On the drive home we picked up about 3 MPG and the hesitation from a stop off idle is almost completely eliminated. Drivability feels normal with a little extra pep! All in all I like it am VERY happy I finally had a chance to get by the shop and get it done!!!


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

I read they switched to a ceramic coating after complaints. Mine just had a light coat of high temp paint sprayed on.

It wiped right off effortlessly with some thinner and I put a bunch of coats of the ceramic manifold paint myself


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Yup used to be just black paint


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## oilburner (Jun 13, 2013)

same tune I`ve been running for 2 years with zero issues. never run stock again!


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## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

Chris Tobin said:


> BTW they said that their experienced techs take about 2 hours to install the race downpipe, race tune and EGR block-off plates, and that the downpipe only could be done in about 45-minutes by an experienced tech or owner. So you could literally drive to the track, swap out the DPF for the race downpipe, load the race tune then race and swap it back for the drive home with only around an hour and a half of extra time needed... Just a thought...


You cant do that sadly. When you put the Race tune on your car and delete, only GM can retune for DPF/Urea injection, even Fleece cant, ask them.

When you delete, you delete for good. :signs013:


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I do wish the downpipe was bigger. Definitely should be able to fit a bigger one in there - which will make for less backpressure...turbo happier, more power, etc...


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## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

MP81 said:


> I do wish the downpipe was bigger. Definitely should be able to fit a bigger one in there - which will make for less backpressure...turbo happier, more power, etc...


Yes, im working on a plan to find a good fabricator to make me a custom 3" downpipe and full exhaust using these parts : Vibrant Performance ::.

And it will be Ceramic coated too. :th_dblthumb2:


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yeah, a full 3" back setup I think would be the most optimal.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

MP81 said:


> I do wish the downpipe was bigger. Definitely should be able to fit a bigger one in there - which will make for less backpressure...turbo happier, more power, etc...





Poje said:


> Yes, im working on a plan to find a good fabricator to make me a custom 3" downpipe and full exhaust using these parts : Vibrant Performance ::.
> 
> And it will be Ceramic coated too. :th_dblthumb2:





MP81 said:


> Yeah, a full 3" back setup I think would be the most optimal.


3-inch seems like overkill to me! My 6.6L Duramax engine came with a 3.5-inch exhaust system and funky downpipe. I believe the aftermarket downpipe is either 3.5 or 4-inch and the rest of the exhaust is 4-inch and my truck runs a MUCH larger turbo AND is putting down 540 HP and 1000 lbs-ft TQ.

OZTuner sized the downpipe appropriately for the turbine outlet, I highly doubt you would see ANY measurable improvement from a larger downpipe... I suppose it goes well with a ricer/gasser mentality, but a larger diameter downpipe is not at all needed for the 2.0L turbo diesel engine. Even with a larger turbo or compounds I think it would be fine with this downpipe...


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## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

Chris Tobin said:


> 3-inch seems like overkill to me! My 6.6L Duramax engine came with a 3.5-inch exhaust system and funky downpipe. I believe the aftermarket downpipe is either 3.5 or 4-inch and the rest of the exhaust is 4-inch and my truck runs a MUCH larger turbo AND is putting down 540 HP and 1000 lbs-ft TQ.
> 
> OZTuner sized the downpipe appropriately for the turbine outlet, I highly doubt you would see ANY measurable improvement from a larger downpipe... I suppose it goes well with a ricer/gasser mentality, but a larger diameter downpipe is not at all needed for the 2.0L turbo diesel engine. Even with a larger turbo or compounds I think it would be fine with this downpipe...


Since a Turbo car, nothing after the turbo is best. Since i cant put nothing, i will go biggest possible!

Look at video from one of the best for more infos : http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion/197690-turbo-straight-pipe-best.html


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Poje said:


> Since a Turbo car, nothing after the turbo is best. Since i cant put nothing, i will go biggest possible!
> 
> Look at video from one of the best for more infos : http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion/197690-turbo-straight-pipe-best.html


Exactly.

Plenty of Cobalt SS/TCs see gains from going up from the stock 2.5" exhaust and downpipe up to a 3", especially when they're tuned. I'm running a 2.5" on mine, and it doesn't even have a turbo. If I move up to a TVS 1320, a 3" downpipe and catback will be required, not just because it's cool. 

It's a turbo car - as mentioned above - the less backpressure the better. Even though the downpipe is sized to the turbo outlet, you've got a couple 90 degree bends in there...a larger diameter will make those less of a impediment to flow.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Pff. 5" or go home


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Poje said:


> Since a Turbo car, nothing after the turbo is best. Since i cant put nothing, i will go biggest possible!
> 
> Look at video from one of the best for more infos : http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-general-discussion/197690-turbo-straight-pipe-best.html





MP81 said:


> Exactly.
> 
> Plenty of Cobalt SS/TCs see gains from going up from the stock 2.5" exhaust and downpipe up to a 3", especially when they're tuned. I'm running a 2.5" on mine, and it doesn't even have a turbo. If I move up to a TVS 1320, a 3" downpipe and catback will be required, not just because it's cool.
> 
> It's a turbo car - as mentioned above - the less backpressure the better. Even though the downpipe is sized to the turbo outlet, you've got a couple 90 degree bends in there...a larger diameter will make those less of a impediment to flow.


I understand what you are saying, but again in this specific application I do not think it is necessary or worth the effort or investment. If 6.6L of Duramax diesel with a MUCH larger turbo works VERY well with 3.5 and 4-inch exhaust making 500-1000 HP, I think we'll be fine making less than 200 HP with a baby turbo and only 2.0L of engine!!!

Most of the race and sled pull diesel engines that I am around on a regular basis use downpipes and/or turbo exhaust outlets (typically hood stacks) that are sized to the turbine outlet. Last weekend at the UCC event they were making more than 2000 HP through hood stacks with triple turbo compound setups and exhaust through one or two outlets sized to the turbine outlet complete with 90* bends, some of them with multiple bends.

I think it is better to invest the money from custom OVERSIZED exhaust on your Diesel Cruze in other areas that will actually improve performance rather than one that likely will not make a difference other than lightening your wallet and draining your bank account. But hey, what do I know???


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

It is funny that the reference video is of Gale Banks. Gale and I are friends and I have sat down with him on numerous occasions. The exhaust on my Duramax truck is Banks Monster Exhaust with a downpipe from ProFab Performance. I know the exhaust is 4-inch and I think the downpipe is as well.

Look at the many exhaust systems shown in the video, Banks Power does not install oversized exhaust downpipes on their engines. Why do you want to??? Freeflowing is freeflowing...


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Moving from a 2.5" to 3" exhaust sure worked pretty well on a 1.4T Dodge Dart. Making less power than a tuned 2.0TD Cruze, and about half the torque. And that's still on the stock downpipe.

2.5 vs 3 inch exhaust - Page 3

Keep in mind - with a hood stack, there's no back pressure because it's not that long - it comes out of the turbo and ends. That's fine. But you start adding turns in...you're killing flow. On the opposite end of the spectrum - LT1 Fbodies...switching from a stock-routed CAI, which has two 90 degree turns to the LS1-style lid, which is a straight shot - *huge* improvement. By your logic, if the CAI was the same size as the TB, it doesn't matter about the bends. But boy does it. Big time.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

MP81 said:


> Moving from a 2.5" to 3" exhaust sure worked pretty well on a 1.4T Dodge Dart. Making less power than a tuned 2.0TD Cruze, and about half the torque. And that's still on the stock downpipe.
> 
> 2.5 vs 3 inch exhaust - Page 3
> 
> Keep in mind - with a hood stack, there's no back pressure because it's not that long - it comes out of the turbo and ends. That's fine. But you start adding turns in...you're killing flow. On the opposite end of the spectrum - LT1 Fbodies...switching from a stock-routed CAI, which has two 90 degree turns to the LS1-style lid, which is a straight shot - *huge* improvement. By your logic, if the CAI was the same size as the TB, it doesn't matter about the bends. But boy does it. Big time.


You are talking fruits and vegetables not even close enough to apples and oranges in comparison!!!! Gas engines are completely different critters than diesel engine. Intake is completely different that turbine outlet. And finally normally aspirated is completely different than turbo charged... Adding air volume on an intake tract is a great way to help throttle response as well as HP, but again it is totally different that the turbine outlet of a turbo to speak about the intake of a NA gasser.

Hood stacks are short but typically have at least 1 90* bend and in many cases have several 90* or even 180* bends and twists... But again they do not size them much larger than the turbine outlet... Physically the visual stack in the hood is larger, but the internal stack off the turbo is typically turbine outlet sized.

Chase Fleece did 1,855 HP and 2,576 TQ on the chassis dyno this past weekend with his Dodge/Cummins in the UCC competition!!!! Let that sink in a little bit, one of the brothers behind Fleece Performance Engineering made darn near 2,000 HP on a chassis dyno!!! The team at Fleece and OZTuner know their stuff when it comes to tuning and modifying/building diesel engines. I trust those engineers much more than any forum posters when it comes to performance diesel applications. I fully believe that they sized the downpipe for the Cruze Diesel appropriately for the application and I feel that you are wasting money if you have a custom built large diameter downpipe.

If you want to have a custom downpipe fabricated feel free to do so, but do not expect it to provide a dramatic HP or TQ advantage over the OZTuner downpipe. You would be much better off investing the money for the custom fabricated pipe and TIG welding in other areas of your car like high flow injectors, turbo upgrade, performance wheels and tires or brake upgrades or anything else that will actually improve the car not something that will cost a lot of money for little to no gain in performance.


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## Aaron/VA (Oct 23, 2016)

For those of you interested... I have a guy at work that is really considering building larger downpipes for the CTD, completely stainless steel, and larger diameter. They'll cost more than $265, but it will be substantially higher quality. He already has an established business as a down pipe / exhaust fabricator for the whole Volvo and WRX world. If any of you are interested... Look up 8Eight Fab on facebook.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Aaron/VA said:


> For those of you interested... I have a guy at work that is really considering building larger downpipes for the CTD, completely stainless steel, and larger diameter. They'll cost more than $265, but it will be substantially higher quality. He already has an established business as a down pipe / exhaust fabricator for the whole Volvo and WRX world. If any of you are interested... Look up 8Eight Fab on facebook.


Any chance he'd also be interested in doing a dyno comparison with the two?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Chris Tobin said:


> I trust those engineers much more than any forum posters when it comes to performance diesel applications.


So I guess the fact I'm an automotive mechanical engineer with a thesis that dealt entirely in fluid dynamics (with an advisor who was the fluid dynamics professor) means I'm just "a forum poster". I wasn't aware I didn't actually know what I was talking about, wow!

/sarcasm


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## Aaron/VA (Oct 23, 2016)

MP81 said:


> Any chance he'd also be interested in doing a dyno comparison with the two?


My car will be the test car... so it's possible, I will have to find a local Dyno(I know where one is, just not sure if they are open to the public or just for their own tuning purposes, it's a LS performance shop)... But I would be more than willing.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

MP81 said:


> So I guess the fact I'm an automotive mechanical engineer with a thesis that dealt entirely in fluid dynamics (with an advisor who was the fluid dynamics professor) means I'm just "a forum poster". I wasn't aware I didn't actually know what I was talking about, wow!
> 
> /sarcasm


You should know better than to make the comparisons you did earlier then... just sayin'


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Be advised that personal attacks are zero tolerance violations on this forum. There will not be another warning. Review the forum rules and guidelines before replying to this thread.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/6-new-cruzetalk-start-here/9056-cruzetalk-forum-guidelines-rules.html


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Aaron/VA said:


> My car will be the test car... so it's possible, I will have to find a local Dyno(I know where one is, just not sure if they are open to the public or just for their own tuning purposes, it's a LS performance shop)... But I would be more than willing.


That would be fantastic! Most shops with a dyno will let you "rent" time, if its open - free money for them, really.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Chris Tobin said:


> You should know better than to make the comparisons you did earlier then... just sayin'





XtremeRevolution said:


> Be advised that personal attacks are zero tolerance violations on this forum. There will not be another warning. Review the forum rules and guidelines before replying to this thread.
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/6-new-cruzetalk-start-here/9056-cruzetalk-forum-guidelines-rules.html


XTR, that was not at all a personal ATTACK!!! MP81 posted a sarcastic remark and I followed with some friendly banter...

But if that is too much, too real or too whatever for this Forum, maybe my time and efforts are better spent elsewhere...

Later,
CT


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Chris Tobin said:


> XTR, that was not at all a personal ATTACK!!! MP81 posted a sarcastic remark and I followed with some friendly banter...
> 
> But if that is too much, too real or too whatever for this Forum, maybe my time and efforts are better spent elsewhere...
> 
> ...


Apparently a general (I purposely did not quote you in my reply to see if you'd assume I was referring to you) stern warning was _too much, too real, or too whatever_ for you to handle as a member of this forum. Two can play the "let's just berate someone else" game. You're not changing anyone's perception with a reply like that. 

You may see it as friendly banter. To others, it is unnecessary, tiresome, and against the good spirit of the community. Have you noticed otherwise active members becoming scarce lately? While I'm not one to cater to every snowflake that gets their feelings hurt, your post was perceived as a condescending, berating statement made toward another member that provided no technical contribution to the subject matter. MP81's sarcastic reply was an attempt at comic relief to your insinuation that he was "just a forum member," as if we don't have engineers among us. 

Rule #1 of CruzeTalk: be courteous and polite.


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## starspangled6.0 (Apr 16, 2016)

I'm with Chris on this one, at least concerning the value of investing more into an exhaust. The money spent on a custom exhaust on this car doesn't give you a whole lot of return in the end: it's a FWD, semi-luxury passenger car, with almost no aftermarket support for performance parts. Even if you send if off to Fleece and they do injectors, tune, exhaust, etc., no one that I know of can rebuild your transmission to handle the power. 

Would you get more power out of the motor with something as extreme as a hood stack? My guess is yes- but relative to the paltry 150 hp stock rating, to me at least, it's just not worth the money.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Considering the price of the Fleece delete downpipe, I can buy a larger diameter, much longer, stainless downpipe _with_ a cat and a flex pipe for less (ZZP 2.5" catted Cobalt downpipe is $219.99) - so it's plenty feasible that one could buy a larger-diameter downpipe for less money and make more power if you're buying a delete downpipe to begin with if it were available. 

So you're spending the same amount of money, if not less, you would be anyway.


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## starspangled6.0 (Apr 16, 2016)

That's a good point... The only thing is you need a tune in order for the delete to work, which is $1k in itself. The tune and delete is a marvelous product, but not very economical, compared to other cars.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

starspangled6.0 said:


> That's a good point... The only thing is you need a tune in order for the delete to work, which is $1k in itself. The tune and delete is a marvelous product, but not very economical, compared to other cars.


Yeah, most definitely.


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## magnusson (Jun 15, 2014)

Poje said:


> Chris Tobin said:
> 
> 
> > BTW they said that their experienced techs take about 2 hours to install the race downpipe, race tune and EGR block-off plates, and that the downpipe only could be done in about 45-minutes by an experienced tech or owner. So you could literally drive to the track, swap out the DPF for the race downpipe, load the race tune then race and swap it back for the drive home with only around an hour and a half of extra time needed... Just a thought...
> ...


Is this true? Can someone confirm? I live in Kalifornia so every 2 years ill have to reinstall my original equipment to pass smog.


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## magnusson (Jun 15, 2014)

Chris Tobin said:


> Chris Tobin said:
> 
> 
> > You should know better than to make the comparisons you did earlier then... just sayin'
> ...


First you attack mod diesel for being against tunes and mods and then you blast this guy for wanting a bigger downpipe. Lol come on bro


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## magnusson (Jun 15, 2014)

starspangled6.0 said:


> I'm with Chris on this one, at least concerning the value of investing more into an exhaust. The money spent on a custom exhaust on this car doesn't give you a whole lot of return in the end: it's a FWD, semi-luxury passenger car, with almost no aftermarket support for performance parts. Even if you send if off to Fleece and they do injectors, tune, exhaust, etc., no one that I know of can rebuild your transmission to handle the power.
> 
> Would you get more power out of the motor with something as extreme as a hood stack? My guess is yes- but relative to the paltry 150 hp stock rating, to me at least, it's just not worth the money.


And you would own the only hood stacked ctd in the world which is ****!


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

I see things are going well here. What is it you guys exactly want?


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## Aaron/VA (Oct 23, 2016)

Snipesy said:


> I see things are going well here. What is it you guys exactly want?


Since you asked, I would like my cruze to go mid 9s in an 1/8 mile, while still getting 50mpg and remaining 300k mile reliable. 

On stock turbo and injectors. 

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Aaron/VA said:


> Since you asked, I would like my cruze to go mid 9s in an 1/8 mile, while still getting 50mpg and remaining 300k mile reliable.
> 
> On stock turbo and injectors.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk


That's... Very well achievable. You could probably do high 9s stock but don't quote me on it.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

I want the same thing but mid 9's in the 1/4


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

I'd love to see a dyno comparisin between a fleece downpipe, and a 3" downpipe under identical conditions. Personally I agree that there probably won't be much difference, at least for the additional cost for a 3", but until there is a side by side comparison, no one knows for sure and everyone is just gonna keep arguing about it lol


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## oldestof11 (Apr 3, 2016)

Chris Tobin, look up DisplacedTexan on CompD. Nick Carson. Has dyno proof his 3" DP made more torque than a 4" on his truck.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

justin13703 said:


> I'd love to see a dyno comparisin between a fleece downpipe, and a 3" downpipe under identical conditions. Personally I agree that there probably won't be much difference, at least for the additional cost for a 3", but until there is a side by side comparison, no one knows for sure and everyone is just gonna keep arguing about it lol


If priced properly - a larger downpipe shouldn't cost any more than what Fleece has their downpipe priced at.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> If priced properly - a larger downpipe shouldn't cost any more than what Fleece has their downpipe priced at.


I didn't know that fleece would sell delete kits without the downpipe. I figured it was one price for the whole kit, so I was going by the idea that you would have already paid for the fleece downpipe, and then had to pay for the additional 3" downpipe. If you can buy the delete tune without the downpipe, for just the cost of the tune, and have the 3" downpipe made, then yes there may not be much of a cost difference. Regardless I would still like to see a dyno comparison to see if it is even worth the effort, a 3" exhaust on this car seems like massive overkill, but like I said who knows right now.


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## Aaron/VA (Oct 23, 2016)

MP81 said:


> If priced properly - a larger downpipe shouldn't cost any more than what Fleece has their downpipe priced at.


Unless the builder uses stainless, as they should. That would significantly increase the cost. 

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Aaron/VA said:


> Unless the builder uses stainless, as they should. That would significantly increase the cost.


Yes - I mentioned in a previous post that I can get a larger diameter, stainless, longer downpipe with a flex pipe for cheaper from ZZP for my Cobalt. This downpipe should actually be a lot cheaper than it is, in my opinion.

****, you can get a 3" stainless Magnaflow Duramax downpipe for $100 less.


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