# CTD brakes



## bad_diesel (Mar 11, 2014)

Does anyone know where I can find drilled and slotted rotors and calibers for my CTD? 

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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

A better brake set up would be stock brembo blanks with hawk or porterfield pads and dot 4 fluid. 


Your brakes are a little smaller then the LS1 fronts I use on my ECO. 300 VS 302 not that far off in size

if you need DS rotors I'll check my shop that I get my brakes from


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

Brake Performance sells them. You lucky *******! I've been eyeing these and they are high on my want list 

Brake Rotors Brake Discs Drilled Slotted Rotors


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

Oh man, about $255 for all 4 drilled/slotted free shipping. Ugh...


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## bad_diesel (Mar 11, 2014)

Thanks this will probably be one of my next purchases 

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## Nobody (Feb 12, 2012)

I bought mine from auto anything. Slotted rotors in the front look nice. Didn't really see a need for slotted in the rear.


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## MAJOR_SPANKY (Jan 17, 2014)

I wouldn't suggest drilled for a daily driver... slotted is good but drilled can end with cracked rotors. Go for dimpled and slotted if you must have that style, my opinion.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I agree, I had slotted rotors on my previous Commodore and they were a huge improvement over the standard rotors as I had new pads on my old rotors and kept them for my new ones as they were almost new and the difference was amazing.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Drilled and Slotted rotors are only useful if you regularly autocross or track your car. For daily driving blanks will actually perform better long term. The rotors and pads will last much longer, and you will never generate enough heat to see any sort of benefit from drilled. Also you have plenty of bite, no need for slotted.


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## Ger8mm (Mar 13, 2014)

> no need for slotted.


I agree its just a waste for the CTD, I would say drilled and that's it.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Ger8mm said:


> I agree its just a waste for the CTD, I would say drilled and that's it.


I am waiting to see if the CTD brakes warp like my Commodore ones (front) did and if they do then I will go with the grooved ones again otherwise originals are fine.


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

MAJOR_SPANKY said:


> I wouldn't suggest drilled for a daily driver... slotted is good but drilled can end with cracked rotors. Go for dimpled and slotted if you must have that style, my opinion.


You have that backwards. Drilled is no good for track use due to the possibility of building up enough heat that you could *possibly* crack the rotor. I will say I have never seen this happen, and I had drilled/slotted discs on my 2010 Camaro SS (the one with Brembos). 20 miles of HARD mountain driving, and they were no worse for the wear. But I didn't track the car. Drilled is fine for a DD.

Now, if you have high temperature pads >1000 degrees, racing brake fluid (like super blue or something) and plan on using the brakes to their potential, then dimpled or slotted only is the only way to go. Do not use cross drilled rotors if you plan to regularly get your brakes up to 1000 degrees and beyond. And the only place you can do that is on a track. If you are doing this on the street, then you have a death wish anyways


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## VictoryRedLTRS (Mar 26, 2012)

Just out of curiosity, would swapping to diesel cruze brake calipers/rotors be swapped with ls/lt/ltz models as a reliable brake upgrade for those that wanna track their cruze?


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

VictoryRedLTRS said:


> Just out of curiosity, would swapping to diesel cruze brake calipers/rotors be swapped with ls/lt/ltz models as a reliable brake upgrade for those that wanna track their cruze?


I would just go with something like the ZZP big brake for the calipers, Amsoil Dot4, Hawk HP Plus Pads, and an AC Delco blank rotor. Minus the Amsoil thats the exact set up Poje ended up with after an entire season of heavy autocrossing. He went through multiple set ups starting with stock size upgrades, then the ZZP, then the ZZP sized upgrades.

Granted this costs a fair price, but trying to get brand spanking new GM parts from GM will more than likely cost you more.


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## VictoryRedLTRS (Mar 26, 2012)

What ever happened to poje? Don't see him on here much...


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

VictoryRedLTRS said:


> Just out of curiosity, would swapping to diesel cruze brake calipers/rotors be swapped with ls/lt/ltz models as a reliable brake upgrade for those that wanna track their cruze?


Not worth the cost.The LS1/C6 swap is cheaper calipers used $50 to 120 for the pair. Rotors about 120 hub centric ring 20 to 30 bucks. Pads $30 to $130. Remove stock heat shield bolt up use the cruze lines and fbody/c6 fitting Done . I did my first swap for under $150 pick your part is your friend. If you don't drive your car hard track or canyon just upgrade with stock cruze parts alsoI don't like the cheap rebuilds of the zzp calipers that was the issue poje had and a few others.


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

VictoryRedLTRS said:


> Just out of curiosity, would swapping to diesel cruze brake calipers/rotors be swapped with ls/lt/ltz models as a reliable brake upgrade for those that wanna track their cruze?


I wouldn't, simply because nobody makes a performance high friction pad yet...


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## MAJOR_SPANKY (Jan 17, 2014)

For the most part, blanks are perfectly fine until you need to do continous/hard braking. I'd stay away from drilled rotors since they weaken the rotor. Big name rotors may be different like Brembo. Slotted are great, they'll wear your pads down a little faster but have great stopping power as well. The advantage to the slotting is to shave the pad for a flat surface for more surface area and to allow gasses to escape from under the pad which when the gasses build up and it's harder to stop it's called brake fade.

Dimpled and slotted is the best of both with the risk of cracking. You choice of pads will have some influence on that. Like ceramics... they are awesome... if you want to change rotors often... the pads will last longer than you lol


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MAJOR_SPANKY said:


> For the most part, blanks are perfectly fine until you need to do continous/hard braking. I'd stay away from drilled rotors since they weaken the rotor. Big name rotors may be different like Brembo. Slotted are great, they'll wear your pads down a little faster but have great stopping power as well. The advantage to the slotting is to shave the pad for a flat surface for more surface area and to allow gasses to escape from under the pad which when the gasses build up and it's harder to stop it's called brake fade.
> 
> Dimpled and slotted is the best of both with the risk of cracking. You choice of pads will have some influence on that. Like ceramics... they are awesome... if you want to change rotors often... the pads will last longer than you lol


With the exception of track racing, neither will provide any benefits on the street. The gasses escaping was only a benefit with asbestos-based brake pads. No longer an issue. 

Save your money and get a better metal casting for your blanks. Any rotor machining will not have any benefits in any conditions you are going to encounter in this car. 

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## MAJOR_SPANKY (Jan 17, 2014)

I agree... but I'm assuming that most go to D&S for the looks. Kinda like slapping a cowl or wing on a car... you don't need it. Lol


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