# did a few searches but no luck. where do you put the jack to jack up the car?



## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

If you look at the jack you'll see a notch in the top piece of the jack. Look under your car about six inches in front of the rear wheels or behind the front wheels. You will see a corresponding notch on the lower frame rail. The jack fits there.


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## mem67 (Oct 19, 2012)

no floor jack points? trying to change the oil and hate using factory jack


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## 4SidedDie (Oct 4, 2012)

Or use a ramp. 


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Put the jack onto the unibody frame rail behind the front wheels. Don't forget a hockey puck or piece of cardboard between the jack and the car. And, don't forget a jackstand! 

Ramps are the best way to go under the car. A set is about $40. 

Or, get a MityVac 7201 and never get under the car to change oil. I do this, and it works well.


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## mem67 (Oct 19, 2012)

did it without jacking. good to have long arms. 
Thanks for the advice guys.
seems to take more than 4.2 quarts


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## Cleck (Dec 5, 2011)

I always lift them by the frame in the front, pinch weld in the back. No problems. 

Do you have a turbo or non? The 1.8 is supposed to take about 4.75q and the 1.4T is supposed to take about 4.25q. As always, those are approximate, as there's always a little oil absorbed by the filter housing.


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

mem67 said:


> Searched here and the wortless owner's manual


You can take it to the dealer (they would be more the happy to jack you up) or by a new manual that has pages 10-71 thru 10-75.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Lifting the rear of the car with the jack head on the pinch weld near the notch in the weld, it's pretty hard to fit a safety stand next to the jack. I'd assume that that area of the pinch weld from the notch to the rear inner fender liner (twards the rear wheel) is just as reinforced as the weld near the notch in the pinchweld itself?

Any other locations for the safety stand for the rear?

Those lifting from the bottom of the rear spring pirch. It appears pretty easy to get to on the drivers side, but the way the Z-Link Suspension is on the passenger side it's a bit difficult getting to. I assume your going straight in from the rear bumper area, parallel to the tire in both cases for that location?

Where's the safety stand location for this point? You'd have to get it pretty high to get the body high enough to get safety stand under the pinch weld wouldn't you?

I lifted the rear drivers side by both the pinch weld, and the spring perch, both fine, but couldn't find safety stand locations.. Maybe it's right next to the jack closer to the tire..

The front has body main frame members on both sides. I understand where to lift for the front. 

A small 1"x4" piece of oak on the jack pad, with a standard black hockey puck (not modified or slotted) seems to work well for distributing the weight. 

Thanks-


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Ahh, I don't have the Z-link because my Eco doesn't get it, so I've never run into that problem. I've gone in parallel to the tire. It doesn't need to be that high to get a HF jackstand with rubber pad under the rear pinch weld. Although your LT might have to be lifted higher to overcome a softer (?) spring and additional weight of the spare tire in the trunk.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks-

I forgot about the ECO not having the Z-Link. If there's any other suggestions out there let me know. Otherwise I'm going to try lifting and safety stand at the rear pinch.

There's others on here that have said they have lifted by the rear spring perch, but not sure how that works on the Z-Link suspension on the passenger side.

I'll have to look back at those threads to see if I can determine if others are also in an ECO.


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## Starks8 (Jul 20, 2011)

pics of these lift points would be awesome and very helpful.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Starks8 said:


> pics of these lift points would be awesome and very helpful.


I'll see if can get some this weekend, but it may be Monday as I'm moving a network from one office to another.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Would never crawl under a car using a scissors jack, good way to kill yourself. Was forced to purchase new low profile ramps to change the oil on my Cruze. Old ones wouldn't work. The four suspension points on the Cruze are those notches. I see they actually used 1/8" thick rails on the bottom on the Cruze, other vehicles used 16 gauge that would soon rust away. 

They use these four points on a hoist for lifting the entire vehicle. When I mounted my splash guards, I used my three ton floor jack without the cradle with a flat surface that would barely fit under the Cruze where the control arms meet the body both front and rear. With a piece of carpet in between, these are solid body points. Even if the hydraulics did fail with a tire off, car would only sink about a half an inch. That piece of carpet preventing any marring of the paint.

Pitched my jack stands a long time ago, glue and screwed Douglas Fir 2 by 10's 12" long for solid supports, if they can handle a 400,000 pound locomotive, no problems with a 3,000 pound automobile. And work on solid level concrete.

Much easier working on my 15,000 pound motorhome with a whole bunch of jacking point, unibody really sucks. Main reason for getting rid of a car when those rocker panels begin to rust out, those sag in the middle.

But unibody is cheaper, the only advantage of these things. Guess what, we just purchased a throwaway vehicle.


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## Healtotoe (May 21, 2012)

In the front, how about using the back lower control arm knuckle? It fits fairly well in a hydraulic car jack "cleat"?


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## jrd48 (Mar 8, 2013)

I noticed on my 2013 LTZ that if you have the RS package you have to remove the small jack covers on the rocker molding in order to access the factory recommended jacking points. Pages 10-70 to 10-77 in the 2013 manual.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

I put my jack onto the frame rail located about 10 inches behind the front jack point. Use a hockey puck or block of wood over the jack saddle to avoid marring the paint. Otherwise road salt gets in and starts corroding the car faster.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Vetterin said:


> You can take it to the dealer (they would be more the happy to jack you up) or by a new manual that has pages 10-71 thru 10-75.



Legends Never Die


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

. advantage of these things. Guess what, we just purchased a throwaway vehicle.[/QUOTE]













































































Does this mean we can throw the Cruzen away because we just Gotten a flat Tyre and it is friday !


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Starks8 said:


> pics of these lift points would be awesome and very helpful.



To Whom ? The people that are to lazy to get off of the couch , or the people that are too lazy to read ?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Okay a lilttle hard to see but here's the front. Right below were the front fender meets the front door look down undet the car.

Rear is also a littke hard to see but its a bigger space also. You will go to your back door hanldle look down under car you will se a notch in the metal.



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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

At First Look It appears to be an old Wooden Wheel on a Wagon ! Sure does get dusty in Texas ..

Still no word about 442 ?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

brian v said:


> At First Look It appears to be an old Wooden Wheel on a Wagon ! Sure does get dusty in Texas ..
> 
> Still no word about 442 ?


Yea got to love the west part of texas


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Spent some moments along the Brazos and Dallas areas .. OK. C also!


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