# Big 3 Kits F/S (Order Form)



## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

Sorry for my ignorance, what is it for ?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

This is upgrading your Alternator Power wire to your positive terminal battery, Neg terminal wire to the chassis, and engine block wire to the chassis. 

This helps the battery recharge faster by allowing more current flow. 
Puts less strain on electrical system by having less restrictive/bigger wire. 
Helps you gain higher voltage.
Reduces the amount of light dimming due to high powered audio system or adding extra accessories.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Does this help the coil pack?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Theoretically this will help your spark plugs because the engine has a better ground.

Remember positive is coming from alternator/battery and the engine is used as the ground to the chassis. so thats why spark plugs only have a positive cable attached and can still create a spark.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

1. Andrei 4 gauge/ *RECEIVED*
2. H3llon3arth 1/0 / *MADE*
3. NYCruze2012 4 gauge/ *RECEIVED
*4. OnlyTaurus 4 gauge/ *RECEIVED*
5. Dan 1/0 / *Ordered*
6. SkullCruzeRS 4 gauge/*Co currently out of stock BLUE 4Gauge wire*
7. Smurf 1/0 / sent
8. RJHJ
9. Russ 4 gauge/
10. GE Axiom/ Interested


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

So this is for wiring SEPARATE from the wires that I have running to my amp/subs/etc.? If so count me in, I had my car sitting and went to show my mom my new subs, turned my car on, fired them up, and the head lights flickered a bit. Granted its because I wasn't driving or anything, but if this wire upgrade will help prevent flickering, I need it for car shows.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Smurfenstein said:


> So this is for wiring SEPARATE from the wires that I have running to my amp/subs/etc.? If so count me in, I had my car sitting and went to show my mom my new subs, turned my car on, fired them up, and the head lights flickered a bit. Granted its because I wasn't driving or anything, but if this wire upgrade will help prevent flickering, I need it for car shows.


This wiring upgrade is a must have for anyone who has upgraded their car audio system. It is the FIRST thing anyone should do to attack a headlight dimming or voltage issue with their cars, the second being to add an additional deep cycle battery. The alternator provides up to 140 amps of current that has goes through one 4 gauge wire. Adding a second 4 gauge wire or replacing the existing wire with a 0/1 gauge wire will significantly strengthen the electrical system. It may not entirely fix the light dimming issue, but it will certainly help, and you'll need it if you add a second battery later anyway. It's a *very* common upgrade in the car audio world and I highly recommend it. 

Terry, put me down for a set of 4 gauge.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Im getting terry to do my secong battery cable for this.[h=1]Kinetik KHC1800 1800-Watt 12-Vault Power Cell[/h]


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Just ordered the terminals (2/0 and 2 ga)
Also ordered some 1/0 gauge as well.
I already have the wire for a 4 ga

Andrei will be getting the 4ga kit when its completed

The first person to pay for the 1/0 kit will get the this kit.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Andre's kit Assembled
















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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'll be adding heat-shrink tubing to the kits as well. Just for peace of mind.









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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

I got the 1/0 gauge wire in today(but no terms)

Here is a comparison between the two kits.
















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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Andrei's 4ga kit has been shipped.

H3llon3arth- waiting on shipment for 2/0ga terminals (Co. sent wrong size)


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Is there a How-To on the install of this kit with pictures?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Here are the pics ill add a description when I have time.
Also note that the terms pictured in this install are too small that's why they look like they do. I've since then gotten bigger terms that make the kits perfect.



































Missing the pic that goes to the positive side of battery (will take one ASAP)


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Alright pictures are worth alot of words.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Would the 4 gauge kit be adequate if I dont plan on adding any audio equipment and such?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> Would the 4 gauge kit be adequate if I dont plan on adding any audio equipment and such?


The 4 gauge would be adequate even if you _are _planning on adding audio equipment.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Started on H3LLON3ARTH's 1/0 kit.























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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

This is cool T! I may be interested just to give you some business, lol.

Do you still need measurements of the 1.8?

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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Ok T Please put me down for the standard kit if it's not too late. I have no plans on upgrading my audio but the electrical upgrade is nice.

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

It's never too late  
Ill be making these kits as long as there is an interest.

We can do half now to order the parts and half later to revive the product.
Looking at a week total to get one shipped out.
3 days for parts to come in 1 day to make and how long it takes to reach you. 


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Sounds awesome. I look forward to receiving it! Hookin up the Cruze!

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

NyCruze2012-wires ordered. I have terms in stock. As soon as the wire gets here I can start the assembly. Full payment has been received. 

OnlyTaurus-wires ordered. I have terms in stock. Assembly will be after completion of NY Cruze 2012 kit.


Refer to post #6 for the current list (people who pay first have priority)




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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Got my set in the other day. I have to admit, this is far better quality than anything I've ever seen on a store shelf. You simply can't buy this; it has to be made. The heat shrink makes them look very clean. 

In case anyone doesn't know how these are built, the terminals are not open crimp terminals. These are sealed, solid copper terminals that are soldered onto the wiring so the terminal resists loosening due to temperature changes or vibration, and also resists corrosion. This stuff will last as long as if not longer than the factory wiring. 

Can't wait to get these installed in my car.


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## JstCruzn (Mar 19, 2013)

Will definitely do this sometime down the road. In the meantime, what exactly do I need to replace all my wires in the engine bay? Sorry if this seems like a newb question - I'm still learning!


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

JstCruzn said:


> Will definitely do this sometime down the road. In the meantime, what exactly do I need to replace all my wires in the engine bay? Sorry if this seems like a newb question - I'm still learning!


It's basically just six nuts/bolts.
I don't have the sizes on hand but the installation process takes no more than 10min. 
And you aren't really replacing the stock wires your just adding to them. Current flows in the less restrictive path possible anyways, so there's no need to replace them.


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## JstCruzn (Mar 19, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> It's basically just six nuts/bolts.
> I don't have the sizes on hand but the installation process takes no more than 10min.
> And you aren't really replacing the stock wires your just adding to them. Current flows in the less restrictive path possible anyways, so there's no need to replace them.
> 
> ...



If I understand it correctly, I would need 3 wires to add to my engine bay?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

JstCruzn said:


> If I understand it correctly, I would need 3 wires to add to my engine bay?


This is correct. There is no point to removing existing wire. This is more of a reinforcement. 

GM has a policy of using as little wire as possible. This is done to save weight, but also to save costs. Copper is quite expensive (the 0/1 gauge wire in the kit Terry sells is around $4 per foot!), and they will not use a wire that's a higher gauge than absolutely necessary.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Ryan & Fred your cables have been shipped out from the company and are in-route to my house. I might see them as early as tomorrow afternoon or they will be in on Monday. 


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Big thumbs up Terry! Very very excited!

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Cables will indeed be in today. 
Ill get started on them after work.
Will have to be shipped on Monday.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

tecollins1 said:


> Cables will indeed be in today.
> Ill get started on them after work.
> Will have to be shipped on Monday.
> 
> ...


Like I said no rush. At your convenience. Just greatful to be getting it.

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Both kits complete


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

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## OnlyTaurus (Mar 20, 2012)

tecollins1 said:


> View attachment 12221
> 
> View attachment 12222
> 
> ...


Sweet! Can't wait!

Thanks T, you're the man.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Thank you T! I cannot wait to receive my Collins Electrical Kit! Sweet!

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Both Ryan and Fred's kits have been shipped! 


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Happy days! My kit arrived today while I was at work! Thanks T! Going to do the install very soon!

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## GE Axiom (Mar 12, 2013)

I read through the post to make sure this wasn't asked already. What effect if any will this have on my warranty? (keep in mind i did get extended warranty)


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

GE Axiom said:


> I read through the post to make sure this wasn't asked already. What effect if any will this have on my warranty? (keep in mind i did get extended warranty)


No warranty of any kind will be voided. All you're doing is adding extra wire to reinforce the existing wire.

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## GE Axiom (Mar 12, 2013)

Thats what I was thinking I will more than likely be doing this as well. silly question but can we get them in different colors?


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## SkullCruzeRS (Nov 3, 2011)

GE Axiom said:


> Thats what I was thinking I will more than likely be doing this as well. silly question but can we get them in different colors?


Just placed my order, they are available in blue, black and red wires. However, the 4 gauge is out of stock currently in blue so I'll be waiting until they are in stock for my kit.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

GE Axiom said:


> Thats what I was thinking I will more than likely be doing this as well. silly question but can we get them in different colors?


Sounds good just shoot me a PM when you are ready to purchase. 

Post before me answered your question about colors.



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## Lightz39 (May 14, 2012)

I may be interested in this. I have a amp and will be adding HID projectors. Will this be enough to keep the lights from flickering or will a capacitor still be needed?


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## tmath11 (Feb 18, 2013)

To someone who has installed theirs.. What kind of voltage increase have you seen? Anyone reach 15V?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Lightz39 said:


> I may be interested in this. I have a amp and will be adding HID projectors. Will this be enough to keep the lights from flickering or will a capacitor still be needed?


No. You will need to upgrade the wiring harness or add a relay harness with a capacitor in order to prevent the flickering. The stock wiring harness cannot support the load needed for the ballasts to fire. 



tmath11 said:


> To someone who has installed theirs.. What kind of voltage increase have you seen? Anyone reach 15V?


No voltage increase except under heavy load, which will depend on the car audio install in question. The car actually fluctuates voltage based on total load. Driving during the day, you will see it go down to as low as 12.x volts. The car shuts the alternator off and uses the battery to run the car for fuel saving purposes, then turns the alternator back on when the voltage drops below a certain point. It keeps repeating this cycle. 

If the system detects a constant heavy load, it will keep the alternator running. Under those conditions, I've typically seen 14.8-15.2V. The biggest key will be how low your voltage drops under high loads. This is a reinforcement for the stock wire.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Ok T! Installed kit today. very easy install as indicated. Thank you very much!


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## Lightz39 (May 14, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> No. You will need to upgrade the wiring harness or add a relay harness with a capacitor in order to prevent the flickering. The stock wiring harness cannot support the load needed for the ballasts to fire.


Ok thank you.


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## GE Axiom (Mar 12, 2013)

Any pictures of the red? I'd like to see that. 

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

GE Axiom said:


> Any pictures of the red? I'd like to see that.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


As of right now no. No one has ordered a red kit yet.


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## GE Axiom (Mar 12, 2013)

Id be interested in what that would look like under the hood. 

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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

tecollins1 said:


> Here are the pics ill add a description when I have time.
> Also note that the terms pictured in this install are too small that's why they look like they do. I've since then gotten bigger terms that make the kits perfect.
> 
> View attachment 11994
> ...


Ever get that pic of the positive hook up to the battery?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Is the vid not good enough? 
If not I can take one in a couple min



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## GE Axiom (Mar 12, 2013)

Do yoy have a green one thst yoy could do just asking? Cause im doing like a neon green color for the under the hood and calipers. 

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

They do have a neon green 1/0 cable but it is not OFC. It's called Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) It is 90% aluminum and 10% copper. 
I honestly wouldn't bother with it. It's ment for lighter loads and budget builds...

The only colors that are OFC are Red Blue and Black.

Let me know 


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Thanks found the video. So it looks that you leave the positive terminal cover off. I think I may do some altering so the cover can be used.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

You can cut a notch in it. That's what I did I just took it off so you guys can see.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

I got mine installed today and am working on a write up as we speak.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Link: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-h...ollins-cables-big-3-cruze-kit.html#post190236


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## EcoDave (Mar 7, 2013)

The Cruze is my first New Vehicle purchase with a warranty.
Let's say the dealerships see bright red 4 guage wires running across the engine bay, would they make a fuss about this?


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

EcoDave said:


> The Cruze is my first New Vehicle purchase with a warranty.
> Let's say the dealerships see bright red 4 guage wires running across the engine bay, would they make a fuss about this?


The ones Terry has been making lately are black, so they blend in well. They'd have to look closely, and then some may still never notice.


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## CruzeDFB (Mar 3, 2013)

So will this stop my lights from dimming when rolling my windows down ect....?


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## EcoDave (Mar 7, 2013)

CruzeDFB said:


> So will this stop my lights from dimming when rolling my windows down ect....?


Not only that, But it will also prevent your headlights from dimming if you decide to put amplifiers, subwoofers, dvd screens and extra accessories in your car as well.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

EcoDave said:


> Not only that, But it will also prevent your headlights from dimming if you decide to put amplifiers, subwoofers, dvd screens and extra accessories in your car as well.


I wouldn't quite guarantee it will prevent it entirely, but it will definitely help. It is definitely a good upgrade to have.

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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

Hi are you still doing these? If so can i buy a 0/1 Kit?


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## 18th-Airborne (May 6, 2013)

No matter what size wire you upgrade to if the draw is more than the alternator can put out to charge the battery the battery will eventually be damaged and die.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

The alternator is rated up to 140amps
140A X 12V =1680w
140A X 15V =2100w

The voltage is roughly equivalent to the water pressure, and the amperage, or current, to the quantity of water that flows past a given point per second. 

At a given pressure, less water can get through a small pipe than a large one in a given time, so the size of the pipe can be regarded as equivalent to a measure of electrical resistance — a smaller pipe has higher resistance. The higher the electrical resistance of an appliance, the lower its current will be, and resistance is often dependent on the diameter of the wires.


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> The alternator is rated up to 140amps
> 140A X 12V =1680w
> 140A X 15V =2100w
> 
> ...


I just looked it up and the 2011, 2012, and 2013 models are all rated at 120 amps not 140 amps.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

okimdone said:


> I just looked it up and the 2011, 2012, and 2013 models are all rated at 120 amps not 140 amps.


Ok

120A X 12V = 1440W
120A X 15V = 1800W

Still the requirements to over draw power is still very high "Most" will never a draw this high of wattage.

And this has nothing to do with my cables. It's only if you have a system that is drawing this amount of wattage. If your system is drawing more than 1440watts at 12V (most people idle around 13V so this is a worst case scenario) then your looking at damaging something. 


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> Ok
> 
> 120A X 12V = 1440W
> 120A X 15V = 1800W
> ...


On no, I wasn't denying that I just wanted to inform you because I've noticed quite a few people say the stock alternator is rated at 140 but it's really 120.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

okimdone said:


> On no, I wasn't denying that I just wanted to inform you because I've noticed quite a few people say the stock alternator is rated at 140 but it's really 120.


Yeah I've noticed that as well thanks for looking in to it further.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

I'm going to be hand delivering a 1/0 kit to Qwabazz since he's in the area. 
I will also be helping install and regap his plugs while I'm there since it doesn't take long at all. 
Here is his finished kit.


















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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

okimdone said:


> I just looked it up and the 2011, 2012, and 2013 models are all rated at 120 amps not 140 amps.


All searches for part number 13581891 (our alternator) return a 130A alternator. 

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## ItsBenAWhile (Mar 15, 2013)

How can I order? Can someone help me install in Local Chicago land?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

ItsBenAWhile said:


> How can I order? Can someone help me install in Local Chicago land?


PM sent


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## DMac1988 (Oct 3, 2011)

Id like to order a 0g wiring kit please. And how do i upgrade the battery i was always told you cant. But i notice a larger battery housing to battery installed ratio is waayyy off. So ya...


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## patatewz (Aug 18, 2012)

please 0 gauge kit for me thanks. black cable if its possible.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Can do.
I just need a couple days to get back on track with work and some of the guys that asked for a kit acouple weeks ago.
I'll send you payment info soon after I check to see if they are in stock.

Sorry for the delays guys just got back from California on the 30th. Was out there for 17 days training (USMC)


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## vulpinethrone31 (Aug 26, 2012)

I am about to order. What colors does this kit come in for the 1/0 gauge wire?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Blue red black 
1/0 gauge 
And 4 gauge


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## prince_bigd (Jul 16, 2013)

let me know when your getting ready to do your next batch and how to easiest pay you. I would like to get a 4 gauge kit in red. pm me if needed


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## FJackson4904 (May 20, 2013)

I am interested in a 1/0 kit if you have one available for my '13 Cruze. If you have one in blue I would love to get it along with a 4 gauge kit in blue as well. Thanks.


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## CanaryGT (Aug 12, 2013)

I am also interested in the 1/0 Kit. Black for the Grounds and Red for the positive.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I'll get a hold of Terry so he can get these orders in for you guys.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

PMs sent out.


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## CanaryGT (Aug 12, 2013)

Sent you money


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Got it


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## CanaryGT (Aug 12, 2013)

Just got the kit. Looks legit. Will install this weekend. Need to get a bolt for the engine ground tho....


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## Ktuntied2 (Aug 3, 2013)

If I still can, I'd like to order a 1/0 Gauge kit, in blue. I have the 1.8 engine if that changes anything. Gonna try to get this in before xr gets my box shipped.


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## SBK15 (Mar 29, 2011)

Whoops, haven't been on in awhile, did I miss the last order form again!?


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## daktah (Mar 17, 2013)

question, for an essentially stock car like my own (led footwell lighting, sri, tune, all bulbs led except headlights), would the larger cable make a difference? i dont plan on installing subs or anything power intensive in the foreseeable future. 1.8 auto if it matters.


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## roade (Dec 31, 2013)

Do you have a 1/0 gauge set available ?


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## SBK15 (Mar 29, 2011)

Still interested in a big 3 order!


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## widebody60 (Jun 28, 2013)

Same here.

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Bump. I think I would be interested in a 4 gauge kit. Just something to help the HIDs.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

giantsnation said:


> Bump. I think I would be interested in a 4 gauge kit. Just something to help the HIDs.


Do you already have a headlight wiring harness installed?

Sent from mobile.


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Yes I have a wiring harness but I noticed (with and without the HIDs) that the headlights dim a bit when you go from neutral to first gear and start to accelerate. Its harder to notice with the HIDs but thought the Big 3 might help to smooth this out.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

giantsnation said:


> Yes I have a wiring harness but I noticed (with and without the HIDs) that the headlights dim a bit when you go from neutral to first gear and start to accelerate. Its harder to notice with the HIDs but thought the Big 3 might help to smooth this out.


This will help a bit, but the reason you're seeing that dimming is because going into first gear reduces the RPMs of the engine and the alternator isn't producing as much power as it is in your neutral idling RPM range. It's a function of the torque converter. It may just be a short pulse while the engine responds to the torque converter load. Depends on the car but all cars do this with auto transmissions to some degree. The solenoids in automatic transmissions actually use up a very minimal amount of power.

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Ok that makes sense and also sounds like the cost and minimal install effort will make the 4 gauge kit worth it. So how do we order this?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Sry been away from the forum for a while. I've been putting in a lot of OT the last couple weeks as our company moved in to their new building.

If you guys are still interested in kits PM me your information.
Gauge 
Color
Name 
Address

I'll reply with payment info.
Thanks for your patience guys.


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## HoPo99 (Oct 31, 2013)

What is the bolt size for the engine block? Lengths and thread count?


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## trevor_geiger (Nov 29, 2012)

HoPo99 said:


> What is the bolt size for the engine block? Lengths and thread count?


I'd like to know this as well please !


Just Cruzin'


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## HoPo99 (Oct 31, 2013)

Not that the extra wires from alternator to battery would be responsible for this but with the kit installed I've seen running voltages range some days from 13.8v and then days like today 15.5v

it was about 15° outside today if that makes any difference. And I drove about 5 straight hours today and it still read 15.5v at the end of the trip

so I find it interesting how much the battery voltage can change day to day


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## mikeeitup (Aug 27, 2013)

Hey! I'm gonna order as soon as I have the money but I have a technical question for you to ponder first. There is a thread about LED headlights for our Cruzen. It says it will run on 10-30v and we have an avg of 9.5v to our headlights. The company says the LED will work anyway. My question to you is, do you think that upgrading the BIG 3 will improve the chances of this working by allowing more current through?


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## cruzer1026 (May 12, 2012)

Need one 4 gauge set in black tecollins. Sent you a pm.


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## dan200615 (Feb 4, 2014)

HoPo99 said:


> What is the bolt size for the engine block? Lengths and thread count?



Can anybody answer this??


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## mikeeitup (Aug 27, 2013)

No idea I'd PM collins.

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## xPunKx (Jan 25, 2013)

Sent you a PM collins


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## HoPo99 (Oct 31, 2013)

Ok to answer my own question. The bolt size you need for the engine block is









and to answer someone else's question of what does a red big 3 kit look like


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Will definitely be picking up a 1/0 gauge set. Haven't toyed around in the engine bay much yet... have you been sending instructions out with your sets?


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## ZMVallo (Oct 14, 2012)

I'd be looking for a 1/0 set also...

To caveat, you'd remove the original power/grounding for the 1/0 set and replace with these correct?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

ZMVallo said:


> I'd be looking for a 1/0 set also...
> 
> To caveat, you'd remove the original power/grounding for the 1/0 set and replace with these correct?


No need to remove the original wiring for either kit.

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## giantsfan10 (May 25, 2013)

iTz SADISTIK said:


> Will definitely be picking up a 1/0 gauge set. Haven't toyed around in the engine bay much yet... have you been sending instructions out with your sets?


theres a how to guide, and a video on how to do this.


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## Invierno (Nov 23, 2012)

Are these still for sale? If so, details on ordering...?


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## Josh4291 (Apr 1, 2014)

After Reading through this thread I am interested in purchasing a set of these in Red in black. 
My question what is going to be my difference in the 4 gage and the 0/1 gauge


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Josh4291 said:


> After Reading through this thread I am interested in purchasing a set of these in Red in black.
> My question what is going to be my difference in the 4 gage and the 0/1 gauge


Unless you are going to install a large amplifier, second battery, or power inverter you should go with the 4 Gauge, 1/0 won't hurt but there really isn't a need here. However, if you are going to do any of the aforementioned you should definitely go 1/0 gauge. I'm personally doing the 1/0 to leave myself room to expand my setup.


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## Josh4291 (Apr 1, 2014)

iTz SADISTIK said:


> Unless you are going to install a large amplifier, second battery, or power inverter you should go with the 4 Gauge, 1/0 won't hurt but there really isn't a need here. However, if you are going to do any of the aforementioned you should definitely go 1/0 gauge. I'm personally doing the 1/0 to leave myself room to expand my setup.


Would 1500 watts be a large amp?


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Anyone have issues with the wire melting?


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## Zach.K (Apr 17, 2014)

loganste123 said:


> Anyone have issues with the wire melting?
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Is this a way of saying you have an issue?

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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

It's not actually, I didn't know if the heat from the engine could damage the wires


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Yes, engine heat can damage wiring. However, if you properly route the wires using zip ties and avoid laying the wires on the engine... you'll be fine. Based on the position of the battery and the firewall entry point I don't see how you could possibly be running the wire anywhere near a hot engine part. If you need help ask here and I'll respond so others can see the answers as well


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

1500 watts... is this the max rating? Tell me which amp/model you are installing. I'm going to assume your amp does not put out 1500 watts RMS. Look in the manual for the RMS rating, I'm going to postulate your amp probably says it does 800 watts RMS. If it's a Chinese el cheapo it will probably claim 1500 RMS, but trust me it doesn't even come close. 

A well made amplifier by companies like Alpine will usually exceed their stated RMS values. For instance, mine states 500 watts RMS but the certified value is 560 watts RMS. I've owned the gamut of amps; from the dirt cheap to the higher end. Brands like Pyle will never live up to their stated specs. If their amp claims 750 watts RMS it will likely achieve 400 watts RMS, if you're lucky, and their distortion levels are bad!

To answer the question frankly, yes, 1500 watts would be a big amplifier. If you are only installing one amp then 4 gauge would be sufficient for power & ground wires for RMS ratings below around 600 watts. If your amp will truly put out RMS values above 600 watts I wouldn't short yourself with 4 gauge and would automatically make the jump to 0 gauge. I do not recommend 8 gauge because you will typically start losing voltage by the time the electricity reaches the amplifier in the rear of the car due to resistance. This is my opinion on any install. If you are considering two amplifiers you should be installing 1/0 gauge (or standard 0 gauge). I've seen it mentioned on here before but Knukonceptz makes the best wire for your $$$. I have used it for the past 6 years and I'm very satisfied. 

If you need help locating cost effective parts or actually installing components please, don't hesitate to ask me questions. I'm not into SQ like many of the posts on here. My hearing sucks as it is so as long as the speakers, subs, and headunit meet my standards I'm happy. I avoid cheaply made components. There are many ways to upgrade your current system at a reasonable cost. You can replace all the components or a select few. It's your choice.

After all that: post your amp brand/model and we'll go from there


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Moderators: sorry for getting off topic. If there's a way to move this to it's own thread please do so. Thank you. (sorry about the multiple posts  )


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## Josh4291 (Apr 1, 2014)

iTz SADISTIK said:


> 1500 watts... is this the max rating? Tell me which amp/model you are installing. I'm going to assume your amp does not put out 1500 watts RMS. Look in the manual for the RMS rating, I'm going to postulate your amp probably says it does 800 watts RMS. If it's a Chinese el cheapo it will probably claim 1500 RMS, but trust me it doesn't even come close.
> 
> A well made amplifier by companies like Alpine will usually exceed their stated RMS values. For instance, mine states 500 watts RMS but the certified value is 560 watts RMS. I've owned the gamut of amps; from the dirt cheap to the higher end. Brands like Pyle will never live up to their stated specs. If their amp claims 750 watts RMS it will likely achieve 400 watts RMS, if you're lucky, and their distortion levels are bad!
> 
> ...



No it does not run at 1500 Rms it runs at 800 rms
It is an American Bass 1500.1 HD mono block
It is hooked up to and Alpine Type R 10" I believe the sub runs 600 RMS and Peaks at 1600 rms


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Paypal'd my $80 roughly 3 weeks ago and got nothing yet. Sent a PM and never received a response either.


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## CHUCKmfnNORRIS (Jun 29, 2014)

thats a lot of pages to read, i always go with knu konceptz wire and run the big three on my own. i have 2 12" death row subs from incriminator audio at 1500 watt rms power with a brand new IA40.1 amp pushing 4800 watts rms. so the big three isnt enough.

the big question i have for you guys is where to drill a 1" hole in the firewall for the water proof bushing to run the lead power cable.

i have an amp for the focal speakers im puting in so thats not an issue(might be selling the pioneer speakers in the car now)


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Gnfanatic said:


> Paypal'd my $80 roughly 3 weeks ago and got nothing yet. Sent a PM and never received a response either.


You should always message someone before sending money, this is not his fault. On top of that he is military and hasn't been around for a while. It's not uncommon for us. Send him another message and wait a day. If you get nothing then send a message to paypal explaining what you did and ask for your money back.


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

CHUCKmfnNORRIS said:


> thats a lot of pages to read, i always go with knu konceptz wire and run the big three on my own. i have 2 12" death row subs from incriminator audio at 1500 watt rms power with a brand new IA40.1 amp pushing 4800 watts rms. so the big three isnt enough.
> 
> the big question i have for you guys is where to drill a 1" hole in the firewall for the water proof bushing to run the lead power cable.
> 
> i have an amp for the focal speakers im puting in so thats not an issue(might be selling the pioneer speakers in the car now)


There is a nice rubber surround right above the clutch pedal or where it would be if you have an automatic. I'll try to get you a pic but I know there is one floating around on here.


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## scottpj50 (Jan 6, 2014)

Are you still selling the big 3 upgrade kits?


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## CHUCKmfnNORRIS (Jun 29, 2014)

i have the manual trans, looked around and found nothing that will be big enough for the hole i need to drill.


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## illroyale (May 25, 2014)

Where are u i need a set?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I'm working on getting the specs for this kit from Terry. I will start building them once I do.


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## Schnurd (Nov 2, 2013)

any info on these still being available?


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## UlyssesSG (Apr 5, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> This wiring upgrade is a must have .. and the FIRST thing anyone should do to attack a headlight dimming or voltage issue with their cars, the second being to add an additional deep cycle battery.


*Andrei*,
This is all new to me. What deep cycle battery brands and models do you recommend?
- -
Monsieur Charmant Résident


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## sleddingguy (Nov 2, 2011)

If anyone is curious, I just made these and installed. Mine ended up fitting well with the following lengths for the 1.4

The two ground wires are approx 21" and 27", and the power wire is around 3.5-4'.


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## illroyale (May 25, 2014)

sleddingguy said:


> If anyone is curious, I just made these and installed. Mine ended up fitting well with the following lengths for the 1.4
> 
> The two ground wires are approx 21" and 27", and the power wire is around 3.5-4'.


Are you willing to make one that I can purchase?


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## sleddingguy (Nov 2, 2011)

I might be up for making a few kits if there are enough commitments in order to cover costs. The 0/1 kolossus tinned oxygen free cable is pricey. I also used pure copper connectors and tech flex for the power wire so I didn't have to buy separate color cables. The shink tube is a heavy wall 3/4" waterproof tube. Great stuff but but costs about $12 bucks per set of cables. 

I also went the route of crimping and soldering my connections. Some people are ok with this and others prefer solder only. I went the route I did for peace of mind that the connection will never come loose and because I have the tools. Anyway, all that to say that materials probably run approx 70-80 alone for a 0/1 cable setup, so the kit wouldn't exactly be cheap but costs would come down a little if several were made. Here's a few pics of the cables I made for my car.


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## izzone2000 (Dec 25, 2013)

sleddingguy said:


> I might be up for making a few kits if there are enough commitments in order to cover costs.


Put me down for one. Interested to get the final price if more sign up.


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## Schnurd (Nov 2, 2013)

Most likely interested in one also


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## sleddingguy (Nov 2, 2011)

Did some homework on prices. Pricing is based on using the following materials: heat resistant tekflex on the power wire, heavy wall waterproof shrink tubing, kolossus tinned oxygen free cable, pure copper ring terminals, and the engine ground bolt. The rings are crimped and soldered.

4 gauge - $70 shipped
1/0 gauge - $100 shipped

Send me a PM if your interested!


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## illroyale (May 25, 2014)

sleddingguy said:


> Did some homework on prices. Pricing is based on using the following materials: heat resistant tekflex on the power wire, heavy wall waterproof shrink tubing, kolossus tinned oxygen free cable, pure copper ring terminals, and the engine ground bolt. The rings are crimped and soldered.
> 
> 4 gauge - $70 shipped
> 1/0 gauge - $100 shipped
> ...


O snap! I'm down for a 4guage kit. I'll shoot the pm when I get the cash.


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## kfr291 (Aug 11, 2012)

dumb question warning. 

i have no real plans to do too much audio upgrades, but would this help performance at all?

dumb question over


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Just remember folks, the original poster has a vendor badge below his user name.


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## sleddingguy (Nov 2, 2011)

If your not doing audio upgrades, I wouldn't bother with the big3, just keep you stock connections clean and in good shape. 

what's the vendor badge all about?


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## Jonnyukon (Aug 20, 2013)

Pm sent to OP


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## Jonnyukon (Aug 20, 2013)

Anyone still doin this?


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## HurikaneDrew (Jul 7, 2014)

I'm interested in the 90$ 0/1 kit


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## Terra_Ascensor (Jul 6, 2014)

Merc6 said:


> Just remember folks, the original poster has a vendor badge below his user name.


I'm interested in the 1/0 kit. I checked the OPs profile and he hasn't been online in almost a year.


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## Jnoobs (Nov 22, 2012)

I'll Facebook message him to let him know there are peeps that want it.


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## edcast22 (Jun 24, 2015)

do you know if i can put a big case GM alternator in my 2014 chevy cruze ltz rs?


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