# Non AGM battery



## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

The dealer only had the standard 94r battery not the AGM battery. Any one been using a standard lead acid battery in their diesel Cruze


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

As long as its the same cranking amps, that battery should work fine. If paying out of pocket for the battery though I would not buy anything other than an AGM battery.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I had my original battery replaced with GM part number 88864065, which I believe is a standard battery. It has performed flawlessly so far. I've had it over a year.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

diesel said:


> I had my original battery replaced with GM part number 88864065, which I believe is a standard battery. It has performed flawlessly so far. I've had it over a year.


I guess its all in how we define "performed flawlessly" and for which type of battery the charging regulator was originally design for?

Theoretically flooded and AGM cells have different charging curves and the chargers are normally design to match the battery technology for optimal battery performance. Kind of like what the meaning of "it" is ?? :huh:


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

theonlypheonix said:


> I guess its all in how we define "performed flawlessly" and for which type of battery the charging regulator was originally design for?
> 
> Theoretically flooded and AGM cells have different charging curves and the chargers are normally design to match the battery technology for optimal battery performance. Kind of like what the meaning of "it" is ?? :huh:


Interesting. I never really gave it much thought before. My logic consisted of "battery's done - go to GM dealer to get a new one". I think the battery I got is a Cadillac/Buick battery.

"Flawlessly" to me means that it always cranks right up on a cold start, and there have been no electronic anomalies.


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## izedaman (Jan 5, 2017)

My 1st AGM battery died in 1 year. Had a free replacement... so I have another AGM battery... so far not impressed  but I may have just had a dud


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Buy a better battery. Buying the same POS that died in the first place is doing the same thing and expecting different results.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

It's under warranty so, the battery is no cost. Surprisingly the no AGM has a 80cca advantage and, is lighter. Theoretically, AGMs charge faster and are better for high drain applications.. we will see how long it lasts. 
The charging system on these cars are pretty advanced, I think it can adapt to the new battery.


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## jkhawaii (Feb 12, 2016)

KpaxFAQ said:


> Buy a better battery. Buying the same POS that died in the first place is doing the same thing and expecting different results.


 I also have a GM extended warranty so, I may never need to buy a battery. If I did I think I would try a Odyssey Battery.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

jkhawaii said:


> The charging system on these cars are pretty advanced, I think it can adapt to the new battery.


How does it know that it is now charging a flooded battery?



jkhawaii said:


> I also have a GM extended warranty so, I may never need to buy a battery. If I did I think I would try a Odyssey Battery.


GMPP does not cover battery as it is considered a maintenance item. 

IMHO Odyssey is the best battery in the business. But they don't make a 94R. Although their rival Northstar does.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

Talking about charging curves in different types of batteries is really only something you need to worry about with batteries used in an industrial environment. As far as in your car, it really won't make any difference.

On paper, do they have slightly different charging curves? Yes. In reality, it doesn't matter. What you go with may not be the "ideal" charging setup for a certain battery, but it will work fine. Besides, most of the time, you aren't so much as charging your car battery, as maintaining it. You start your car, and from then on it pretty much is maintaining the charge. Any battery, when run very low, should be recharged with a real charger, not your car.

Whether you put a flooded or AGM battery in your car, it won't care. It will charge either of them just fine. In fact, agm batteries are commonly used as an upgrade on vehicles that came with flooded batteries, and if a car came with an agm battery, using a flooded one may be a step down, but it will work just fine.

Sorry about the long post, but I just didn't want anyone to over complicate this. Any battery will work. Some (agm) will work better than others (flooded).


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

justin13703 said:


> Talking about charging curves in different types of batteries is really only something you need to worry about with batteries used in an industrial environment. As far as in your car, it really won't make any difference.


That May be true in most cases, I wonder if the variable alternator in the cruze has some effect? It also at times is charging at a higher rate than a normal alternator(seem mine at 15V+ on more than one occasion).


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## 17Hatch6MT (Dec 28, 2015)

I am still struggling to understand what different battery types mean for our cars. What's in the link ( 
Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University ) helps a little, but I am still not completely clear. 

In the old days, I could tell when I needed a new battery. The lights and accessories would dim/slow down more than I was accustomed to, when the engine was at idle or off. Signified the battery was not delivering as much current for a given voltage that it had in the past. Not sure how to tell now, with all these smart algorithms modifying the experience. How to tell, now? Is the first definite symptom a no-start? Or (hopefully), is the car's computer smart enough to tell me it's time for a new battery?

When I need a new battery, I would like to buy the brand and type that gives longest service life. Still hoping for an answer: What should I buy?

Oops, do the charging systems differ between Gen1 & Gen2, Diesel, and not? I have a Gen 2 gasoline.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

spacedout said:


> justin13703 said:
> 
> 
> > Talking about charging curves in different types of batteries is really only something you need to worry about with batteries used in an industrial environment. As far as in your car, it really won't make any difference.
> ...


Yes the charging system on the Cruze will vary output by load, and cause what looks like fluctuating voltage readings. This is normal.

For example, when at wot, sometimes the vehicle will drop voltage to around 12 volts to prevent parasitic loss through the alt, to give you max power at wot. Also, when costing or braking, the vehicle may bump up voltage to 15 or more, because you aren't using any power from the motor, so it will do some extra charging then.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

17Hatch6MT said:


> I am still struggling to understand what different battery types mean for our cars. What's in the link (
> Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University ) helps a little, but I am still not completely clear.
> 
> In the old days, I could tell when I needed a new battery. The lights and accessories would dim/slow down more than I was accustomed to, when the engine was at idle or off. Signified the battery was not delivering as much current for a given voltage that it had in the past. Not sure how to tell now, with all these smart algorithms modifying the experience. How to tell, now? Is the first definite symptom a no-start? Or (hopefully), is the car's computer smart enough to tell me it's time for a new battery?
> ...


What you SHOULD buy is an agm battery. They are maintenance free and are more efficient due to the plates being closer together. Only use a flooded battery as a last resort, in a case of you need a battery right now, but absolutely can't get ahold of an agm battery.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

17Hatch6MT said:


> Not sure how to tell now, with all these smart algorithms modifying the experience. How to tell, now? Is the first definite symptom a no-start? Or (hopefully), is the car's computer smart enough to tell me it's time for a new battery?


In my case, I was able to tell the old fashioned way. Cold start cranking slowed down a few days prior. Then on the day I got a new battery, it cranked so slowly it almost didn't start the car, then for a while my car wouldn't shift out of 1st gear.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

My battery died last month and it is only covered under the 3/36 coverage. Ended up buying an Advanced Auto Gel. WOW, that battery is a bugger to remove. Advanced offers free battery replacement at the store, but they couldn't get the forward clip to release. Had them lock it back down and my dealership put that battery in for me at no cost while they were reworking the sensor issues.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

17Hatch6MT said:


> When I need a new battery, I would like to buy the brand and type that gives longest service life. Still hoping for an answer: What should I buy?


I would opt for a Battery Plus X2 AGM dual purpose (as I did last summer), comes with free 60 month no hassle replacement warranty. So far trouble free and it cranks 2.0 TD @ -18F true temp very nicely which the OEM battery did NOT!  Note that I squeezed in a 27F (930 CCA !), with only slight mods due to the fact its about 0.5 in taller otherwise W and D are similar to the 94R .

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp


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## Steelmesh (Jan 16, 2016)

17Hatch6MT said:


> I am still struggling to understand what different battery types mean for our cars. What's in the link (
> Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University ) helps a little, but I am still not completely clear.
> 
> In the old days, I could tell when I needed a new battery. The lights and accessories would dim/slow down more than I was accustomed to, when the engine was at idle or off. Signified the battery was not delivering as much current for a given voltage that it had in the past. Not sure how to tell now, with all these smart algorithms modifying the experience. How to tell, now? Is the first definite symptom a no-start? Or (hopefully), is the car's computer smart enough to tell me it's time for a new battery?
> ...


Instead of flooded with acid, the acid is absorbed in to glass mat that touches the lead. I think all AGM are SLA, Seal Lead Acid. With that, it means you can install the battery upside-down if you want and on the extreme end, it can probably take a literal bullet and still work, they are durable.


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## Steelmesh (Jan 16, 2016)

Anybody run the Duralast Platinum AGM battery? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...ery/duralast-platinum-battery/319460_929860_0

I really like Autozone Duralast gold battery warranty, I had a bad luck stint for a couple years where I warranty replaced 4 Duralast golds batteries in 3 off my vehicles, like from draining them dead and 1 from a HF maintainer that killed the battery over a winter (like 4 volts, not charge taken).


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## CruzeDan (May 17, 2015)

Wow these batteries suck. I just had to replace mine. Car is only 2 years old with 15k miles on it. Remote start was failing to start the car sometimes. MDI 2 stated that the car was showing a reading of speed that caused the start to fail. The other thing that showed up was battery low at start was listed as active. Couldn't find any other possible cause, and after sitting through the night the voltage would drop to 11.4 volts. Brought the car to my brothers dealer and he checked the battery with the GM GR8 tester and it failed. Changed it out and changed the negative battery cable while we were in there.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Steelmesh said:


> Anybody run the Duralast Platinum AGM battery? http://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...ery/duralast-platinum-battery/319460_929860_0
> 
> I really like Autozone Duralast gold battery warranty, I had a bad luck stint for a couple years where I warranty replaced 4 Duralast golds batteries in 3 off my vehicles, like from draining them dead and 1 from a HF maintainer that killed the battery over a winter (like 4 volts, not charge taken).


Had 2 of them for over 2 years, 1 in my 1.4. Cranked strong, held voltage way better than the GM crap, even in the dead of winter. I think one would be a great match for a Diesel.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

17Hatch6MT said:


> How to tell, now? Is the first definite symptom a no-start? Or (hopefully), is the car's computer smart enough to tell me it's time for a new battery?


I don't think the computer gives any warning. The no start is pretty much the warning. If you're observant and have a sharp ear, you might hear the cranking speed is a "note" lower than normal.

There are add-on devices that will warn you when they see the battery voltage drop too low on cranking. That's a warning that the time is near. (However, I'm not sure if they'd be too happy with the charging voltage the Cruze sometimes puts out.)


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

ChevyGuy said:


> I don't think the computer gives any warning. The no start is pretty much the warning. If you're observant and have a sharp ear, you might hear the cranking speed is a "note" lower than normal.
> 
> There are add-on devices that will warn you when they see the battery voltage drop too low on cranking. That's a warning that the time is near. (However, I'm not sure if they'd be too happy with the charging voltage the Cruze sometimes puts out.)


Sometimes you may see "battery saver active" if it's just not holding much of a charge.

Or, if a battery cell just goes out entirely, no warning at all but the click of your starter.


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## Cruze tried to kill us! (Jul 22, 2019)

I have just been advised by Holden that the agm batteries are for start stop cars and should not be used in the Holden Cruze as they have a different charging system. My car has been on for 4 hours today at Holden and still showing it needs to be charged. 
Has anyone had problems using agm battery in their Cruze? This whole problem of mine started last Saturday (6 days ago now) my car went into Limp mode (apparently that’s the terminology) and it was towed to Holden last Saturday. They have tested it all week and can not replicate the problem but saying it could be the agm battery that caused it.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Nope, that's a stupid excuse. I had one for 3 years in my 2012 without issue.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Cruze tried to kill us! said:


> I have just been advised by Holden that the agm batteries are for start stop cars and should not be used in the Holden Cruze as they have a different charging system. My car has been on for 4 hours today at Holden and still showing it needs to be charged.
> Has anyone had problems using agm battery in their Cruze? This whole problem of mine started last Saturday (6 days ago now) my car went into Limp mode (apparently that’s the terminology) and it was towed to Holden last Saturday. They have tested it all week and can not replicate the problem but saying it could be the agm battery that caused it.


All North American Cruze ship from the factory with an AGM battery. While I doubt GM would use a different battery technology elsewhere it is possible.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> Nope, that's a stupid excuse. I had one for 3 years in my 2012 without issue.


Exactly this.

AGM just handles start-stop situations better than non, but AGM is pretty widely used these days...


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

obermd said:


> All North American Cruze ship from the factory with an AGM battery. While I doubt GM would use a different battery technology elsewhere it is possible.


No, they are lead-acid, except the 1st generation diesel I think.

Gen 2's ship with AGM for start-stop.


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

justin13703 said:


> What you SHOULD buy is an agm battery. They are maintenance free and are more efficient due to the plates being closer together. Only use a flooded battery as a last resort, in a case of you need a battery right now, but absolutely can't get ahold of an agm battery.


All the new Diesel Cruzes use flooded batteries,its posted on GM tech-link as a chart showing part numbers,CCA,etc. Flooded batteries come as maintenance free as well.I personally think all the problems with AGM batteries in the Cruzes has to do with them being under the hood and not in the trunk like a lot of agm's are.AGM's don't like being charged in high heat conditions,look it up.


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

Tech-Link for cruze model years 16,17,18. Chart dated 2018



https://techlink.mynetworkcontent.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/TechLink-batteries-part-numbers-C-2016-2018.pdf


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

oreo382 said:


> Tech-Link for cruze model years 16,17,18. Chart dated 2018
> 
> 
> 
> https://techlink.mynetworkcontent.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/TechLink-batteries-part-numbers-C-2016-2018.pdf


this is gen1 diesel section, where is the gen1 diesel listed on your link?


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## eddiefromcali (Aug 21, 2017)

boraz said:


> this is gen1 diesel section, where is the gen1 diesel listed on your link?


are you blind? its right there


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

eddiefromcali said:


> are you blind? its right there


A 2016-2018 Gen 1 Diesel? 

The link shows Gen 2 only.


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

boraz said:


> this is gen1 diesel section, where is the gen1 diesel listed on your link?


I know its the gen 1 section,i posted this just to let people know that AGM isn't the holy grail.You can use a flooded if the CCA is the same or close,especially in a warm climate (Florida,Texas etc.).


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

17Hatch6MT said:


> I am still struggling to understand what different battery types mean for our cars. What's in the link (
> Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University ) helps a little, but I am still not completely clear.
> 
> In the old days, I could tell when I needed a new battery. The lights and accessories would dim/slow down more than I was accustomed to, when the engine was at idle or off. Signified the battery was not delivering as much current for a given voltage that it had in the past. Not sure how to tell now, with all these smart algorithms modifying the experience. How to tell, now? Is the first definite symptom a no-start? Or (hopefully), is the car's computer smart enough to tell me it's time for a new battery?
> ...


Ok, it seems a concern was not fully addressed in this comment, so I'll chime in on this old thread. The Gen 2 (all of them, note: while in a Gen 1 thread, the comment here is from a guy with a Gen 2 GAS Cruze) have the battery inside the passenger compartment, basically in the trunk. That means they MUST have and continue to have an AGM type battery (it certainly helps with start/stop, but that is not the only reason). A flooded cell battery puts out gasses that you do not want inside you trunk, where it's not vented. A failed or failing flooded battery will off gas even more than normal, and that again is a problem. All Gen 2s need AGM. Now on the Gen 1, the Diesel has the AGM factory installed, but under the hood. I think the early battery deaths can be attributed to heat under the hood. The big weakness of AGM is these batteries do not do well in heat, and especially being charged when hot, and there is no temperature compensated charging system in the Gen 1 Cruze.. so I think that is the issue. Also note the Gen 1 Diesel charging system permits periodic battery drain while driving, then rapid charging also, on acceleration or high engine load, it basically shuts off the alternator, then when engine braking, it spikes the voltage and charge rate. This kind of thing is something an AGM battery can do well, due to lower internal resistance, but I caution, a traditional flooded cell battery is not going to like this behavior, and traditional cars that had flooded cells run basically a constant voltage with a running engine, so there is not charge/discharge while driving. For that reason, despite the under-hood heat concern, I'll stick to AGM in my Gen 1, I'd advise others to do the same.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

MRO1791 said:


> Ok, it seems a concern was not fully addressed in this comment, so I'll chime in on this old thread. The Gen 2 (all of them, note: while in a Gen 1 thread, the comment here is from a guy with a Gen 2 GAS Cruze) have the battery inside the passenger compartment, basically in the trunk. That means they MUST have and continue to have an AGM type battery (it certainly helps with start/stop, but that is not the only reason). A flooded cell battery puts out gasses that you do not want inside you trunk, where it's not vented. A failed or failing flooded battery will off gas even more than normal, and that again is a problem. All Gen 2s need AGM. Now on the Gen 1, the Diesel has the AGM factory installed, but under the hood. I think the early battery deaths can be attributed to heat under the hood. The big weakness of AGM is these batteries do not do well in heat, and especially being charged when hot, and there is no temperature compensated charging system in the Gen 1 Cruze.. so I think that is the issue. Also note the Gen 1 Diesel charging system permits periodic battery drain while driving, then rapid charging also, on acceleration or high engine load, it basically shuts off the alternator, then when engine braking, it spikes the voltage and charge rate. This kind of thing is something an AGM battery can do well, due to lower internal resistance, but I caution, a traditional flooded cell battery is not going to like this behavior, and traditional cars that had flooded cells run basically a constant voltage with a running engine, so there is not charge/discharge while driving. For that reason, despite the under-hood heat concern, I'll stick to AGM in my Gen 1, I'd advise others to do the same.


Automatic Gen 2's (diesel and gas) have an AGM; as the manual ones don't have stop/start, they are specced for a regular flooded battery.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

jblackburn said:


> Automatic Gen 2's (diesel and gas) have an AGM; as the manual ones don't have stop/start, they are specced for a regular flooded battery.


My manual Gen 2, Diesel, has the AGM from the factory, same as the automatic Gen 2s I have. If GM is putting a flooded cell battery in an un-ventilated interior space under the trunk, then they are doing something dangerous. A flooded cell needs to be well vented, and that space does not vent well.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

jblackburn said:


> Automatic Gen 2's (diesel and gas) have an AGM; as the manual ones don't have stop/start, they are specced for a regular flooded battery.


So out of curiosity I wanted to see batteries for the manual gas cruze, and low an behold flooded cell options do populate the list of options, but, there is a note on the flooded cell type batteries for this application:

"*Battery* Difficult To Install Battery, Professional Installation Recommended; CCA: 615; CA: 755; Minutes Reserve Capacity: 95; Without Start/Stop; Battery Gasses Need To Be Vented To Outside; Battery Located In Trunk" 

So while it might be possible to install a flooded cell in the trunk, some kind of venting set-up is required, so be aware of that, or just use the AGM and you don't need to worry about venting gasses, as there are none.


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