# Removing rotors on front of an Eco



## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I bought a couple of rotors and have been contemplating doing the job. I can get the caliper off, my biggest hold up is removing the 2 18 mm bolts holding the mounting bracket on. Is it best to do that before removing the caliper? The caliper seems to get in the way when trying to remove esp with such a small brake line. Ideas?????


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Yes, get the caliper out of the way first.....then remove the bracket.....be prepared for real tight bolts.

Rob


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

The bolts should be 12mm not 18mm.. Put a flat head between the pad and caliper Spread them and remove both the caliper and caliper bracket all at one time..


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Robby said:


> Yes, get the caliper out of the way first.....then remove the bracket.....be prepared for real tight bolts.
> 
> Rob


Is it best to use an impact for this? The last time I tried this was with a breaker bar and bc of my broken shoulder, I could not get a good "whack on the bolts(and hold the breaker bar) with a hammer to break them loose. Since I didn't want to round the bolts I just stopped. Now my shoulder is better and I got my impact out and working, should I try to break it loose with the impact and that would take care of it? Are these bolts directional for each side of the car?


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## 170-3tree (Nov 4, 2014)

If you can tuck an impact in there good, do it. You'll wanna hand tighten them though. 

Then you'll run into those pesky screws holding the rotor onto the hub, if they put them on yours. You'll wanna get an impact screwdriver to pop them loose if they don't come by hand.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

170-3tree said:


> If you can tuck an impact in there good, do it. You'll wanna hand tighten them though.
> 
> Then you'll run into those pesky screws holding the rotor onto the hub, if they put them on yours. You'll wanna get an impact screwdriver to pop them loose if they don't come by hand.


Thanks. I took that as a challenge(in a good way)! Actually got me to go out and see how hard it will be. Bottom bolt impact should be no problem. However, the top bolt is a little more challenging. Now my shoulder is better I can probably get it but not sure with the impact or not. That may require a couple of those universal couplings if I can't break it free with the impact but I should be able to get enough leverage on a breaker bar. Looking at the pads, they don't need to be changed now but probably in spring I will do so. As long as I do it in good lighting like I did today. Last time I was in there I was just changing the pads when my calipers were seized and I did it quickly at night and did not have the required tools so.....


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

I changed my rotors and pads in early summer but dont remember having any problems. I'm pretty sure I just used a box wrench with a few taps from a hammer.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Alldata shows the brake caliper bracket bolts being Torque to Yield use once type bolts. I'm guessing most have reused them with no problems, but anyone who's done this repair in a shop know a part number or source for these bolts?

Those bolts are threading into the hub right? So if they were to snap upon reuse you would have to pull the hub for repair? 

Being an Engineer sometimes sucks. I seem to study everything before doing it. I don't have help if I screw something up, so I've progressed slowly with my wrench turning hands on skills! 

The procedure from 2011 Alldata shows:

9. Install NEW brake caliper bracket bolts (1) and tighten to 100 Nm (74 lb ft) +
60°+ 15° .

10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and
Installation (See: Maintenance\Wheels and Tires\Service and Repair).

11. Lower the vehicle.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

This information is not confirmed, but having Torque to Yield Bolts to remove rotors appears to be crazy. 

Based on 2011 Chevrolet Cruze 1LT 4DR BRAKE CALIPER/FRONT

The part for the bolt is 11516330 which is a M12x1.75x40 grade 8.9 bolt. And they sell for nearly $11.50 each? Are shops really replacing this hardware?

Raybestos appears to have an application H17016 which was just released, but I couldn't find it anywhere. 

Here's a link to bolt depot, for what I believe maybe the bolt in question. 

https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=17486

I'm not doing brakes until next spring, but is replacing that bolt really necessary? Have these brake caliper bolts been Torque to yield for several years? I always remember red locktite, but not torqueing degree's beyond tight. 

Given the other issues with lug studs breaking, I'm not sure I'm comfortable reusing something as critical as Brake hardware, but $11 per bolt, come on. Tech's can't be replacing these can they?

Rockauto shows a bolt made by Carlson, but there's no specs on their website. Using the GM website above it looks like the bolt for the Cruze rear disks is M12 bolt, but it's about 37mm vs. 40. Again not a direct match.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

Vetterin said:


> I changed my rotors and pads in early summer but dont remember having any problems. I'm pretty sure I just used a box wrench with a few taps from a hammer.


What size box wrench? 18 mm or 11/16.


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

Patman said:


> What size box wrench? 18 mm or 11/16.


18mm! 11/16" is too small but if you happen to have some oddball wrenches, (I do) you could try a 23/32".


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

2LT should be close to the Eco, least on the fronts. Was totally shocked that are still using nuts and bolts on these. Thought it would be snap-in like everything else. 

Maybe next year.

Brakes? If doing caliper work have to put a 2 by 6 in front the seat, cut a stick to the right length, power seat helps with this, and have that pedal down an inch. If you don't, ABS will run dry then you will have problems, can't hot wire the pump this darn thing.

Large C clamp? No way, if you can't by cracking open the bleeder push that piston in with two thumbs, have to remove that piston boot and clean that top of the piston so you can. Also have to coat the bleeders with non-hardening Permatex so you are sucking fluid and not air using the vacuum method.

Rest of it has to be installed with your fingers, some use a hammer, this will wear out the rotor and pads in no time.


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## BU54 (Nov 24, 2014)

1mm=.0394"
18mm=.7092"
11/16=.6875"
23/32=.71875" good luck finding one of these in your tool box.

Other handy conversions are,
11mm=.4334 or 7/16"
13mm=.5122 or 1/2"
14mm=.5516 or 9/16"
19mm=.7486 or 3/4"

This should hold you over until you buy some metric wrenches and sockets.


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## RIXSTER (Apr 13, 2015)

Leave the caliper on and just take the bracket bolts out, take it off the rotor as a unit, take off rotor, and reinstall the caliper/bracket assembly.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Shouldn't be a need for an impact wrench. Just put some muscle into it.

Then again, my car has seen very little salt.


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