# Drum to Disc Brake Conversion



## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

As everyone knows, ZZP is coming out with a rotor/caliper kit for our car; however, ECO and LS owners have drum brakes on their rear axles and therefore need some sort of conversion kit.

Now, I went to my dealership today to ask a couple questions, and here are the answers;

Cruze models with drum brakes have either a GNG or GNC rear axle.

ONLY Cruze models with the GNG axle can directly bolt on disc brakes to their rear wheels[In order to figure out what axle you have, all you need is to give your VIN to your dealer].

In order for a complete conversion, you have to replace the elastic brakes lines that run from the axle to the brake, as well as replacing a monitor/pump in the ABS system. The reason for replacing the pump is simply due to disc brakes needing more fluid to push the piston in the caliper compared to the piston in the drum brakes.


So, for those who want the ZZP Rotor/Caliper upgrade, you have to have a GNG rear axle, and 1-3 replacement parts will need to be purchased for a full conversion.


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## iCruze2 (Dec 16, 2011)

Good info! But I'm pretty sure the big brake kit from ZZP is ONLY fronts...


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## Cruzer_1 (Dec 17, 2011)

interesting........ TO MY GM DEALERSHIP!!!!!


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## parish8 (Mar 11, 2012)

i see a lot guys wanting to dump the rear drums. i suspect the reason gm did the drums was for mileage. i do a lot of drag racing and have always been told the drums will completely release and have no friction compared to the disk which will mostly release but still have a little drag on them since there is no springs to pull the pads back. just something to think about.


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## Diretoy (Feb 4, 2011)

The drum brakes on my 2LT are huge IMO. I think the car has excellent brakes...I've had idiots (2) pull out directly in front of me in the last month and the car has surprised me, stopping so quickly and true. I was looking to switch them out until I had to really use the brakes hard. I figured I'd save my cash and the P.I.T.A. of swapping them out. I don't really like the look of them though.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Having to have slam on my brakes 4 times already, I know the stopping power the drums provide, and I can assume that two people can go on for days fighting over whether or not drums are better than disc brakes. The point of this thread is to simply give information to those who want disc brakes instead of drums.

Not everyone will be drag racing their Cruze. Its an economy car, so you can bet that drag racing performance isn't on everyone's list. Most people want the look, and if disc brakes aren't terrible compared to drums, and someone wants to pay the extra for a nice look; whos to say they're stupid for spending their own money on their own car?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

My experience is that drums dry quicker in the rain which translates to a slightly quicker grab in a wet emergency stop. The water is thrown directly off the drum vs having to run to the edge of a disc brake.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

the axle diffrence could be the fact 
ecos dont have z link which means diffrent brakes just pondering


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## Cruzer_1 (Dec 17, 2011)

id do it simply for looks........ i know the drums work fantastically on these cars... just looks


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## Ian_12 (Aug 19, 2011)

parish8 said:


> i see a lot guys wanting to dump the rear drums. i suspect the reason gm did the drums was for mileage. i do a lot of drag racing and have always been told the drums will completely release and have no friction compared to the disk which will mostly release but still have a little drag on them since there is no springs to pull the pads back. just something to think about.



The reason is for cost factor. A parking brake set up on disc brakes is as complex as drum brakes themselves. Disc brakes do release, and the minor friction caused by how they ride wouldn't drag the vehicle at all.


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## parish8 (Mar 11, 2012)

Smurfenstein said:


> Having to have slam on my brakes 4 times already, I know the stopping power the drums provide, and I can assume that two people can go on for days fighting over whether or not drums are better than disc brakes. The point of this thread is to simply give information to those who want disc brakes instead of drums.
> 
> Not everyone will be drag racing their Cruze. Its an economy car, so you can bet that drag racing performance isn't on everyone's list. Most people want the look, and if disc brakes aren't terrible compared to drums, and someone wants to pay the extra for a nice look; whos to say they're stupid for spending their own money on their own car?


i never said anyone was stupid. just posting up a reason why gm may have thought drums were a good idea on this car. my post may have mentioned drag racing but it was meant to bring up the slight extra drag of the disc brakes and infer that it may effect your mileage. i am sure it is a slight difference but like most of the changes on the eco they are all slight and add up to something significant. after doing a search on the subject i am finding a number of references saying that drum brakes do likely have less resistance than disc.



> Disc brakes rely on pliability of caliper seals and slight runout to release pads, leading to drag, fuel mileage loss, and disc scoring. Drum brake return springs give more positive action and, adjusted correctly, often have less drag when released.


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## Ragin Cajun (Feb 11, 2012)

My wifes LTZ had rear discs and I like the way the braking bias is setup. Its alot like my G35 was in that when braking hard the car doesnt nosedive. Thats the way brakes are supposed to work IMO. Having most braking power on the front wheels tends to throw you thru the windshield when braking hard.


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

Smurfenstein said:


> As everyone knows, ZZP is coming out with a rotor/caliper kit for our car; however, ECO and LS owners have drum brakes on their rear axles and therefore need some sort of conversion kit.
> 
> Now, I went to my dealership today to ask a couple questions, and here are the answers;
> 
> ...


Well since you took the initiative, it is only fair to say you have to be the first to do it and document every step of the way.


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## Skilz10179 (Mar 22, 2011)

Diretoy said:


> The drum brakes on my 2LT are huge IMO. I think the car has excellent brakes...I've had idiots (2) pull out directly in front of me in the last month and the car has surprised me, stopping so quickly and true. I was looking to switch them out until I had to really use the brakes hard. I figured I'd save my cash and the P.I.T.A. of swapping them out. I don't really like the look of them though.


The reason our stock brakes suck and people want to upgrade is not because they aren't up to task for quick safe stops in the manor you just mentioned....

The problem with our brakes will be seen when you experience a series of repeated hard braking or in high speed braking, these situations will heat the brakes to the point where you will experience brake fade. Brake fade is when the brakes become so hot that coefficient of friction is lost and the brakes simply do not perform nearly as well as they did at lower temps. 

Solutions are bigger rotors that can absorb more heat before brake fade occurs, bigger multi-piston calipers that have a better clamping force and performance brake pads that are made up of compounds that provide more friction to the rotors.


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## scha7530 (Apr 15, 2012)

These cars along with most any new car have EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution), so none of them should nosedive seriously. It allows an initially very high pressure to be pushed to the rear brakes, then opens the valves in the Stabilitrack (ESP) module to reduce the pressure to keep them from locking. It can adjust this dynamically.

Also, I don't think you will need to change the ESP module. If anything is different, its just the programming. They may be a different part number JUST for this. The fluid volume consumption is likely not vastly different between the disk and drum brakes in the back. If they were, the master cylinder would likely be very different. This is not like converting a 1960's car from front drum to front disk where there is a big difference. 

With that being said, I would suggest just sticking with what you have. Likely the axles aren't actually different for caliper mounting...the difference is probably only with or without z-link. 

drum brakes will have more initial bite than the rear disk brakes, then fade more quickly. the back of this car is pretty light. Your best bet on performance for the dollar is to put larger front rotors on the car and pads with higher friction coefficients. I'd be interested to see if the Verano or Volt uses larger rotors. If that was the case it would be a cheap rotor/bracket upgrade.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Mick said:


> Well since you took the initiative, it is only fair to say you have to be the first to do it and document every step of the way.


Alas, I don't have the money. If I did, This thread would be a look at my actual conversion, instead of here's what I've been told if you want to do it


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## GoldenCruze (Dec 18, 2011)

obermd said:


> My experience is that drums dry quicker in the rain which translates to a slightly quicker grab in a wet emergency stop. The water is thrown directly off the drum vs having to run to the edge of a disc brake.


I have found the opposite to be true, especially if driving through deep water. The drum collects and holds water inside until it can drain out. With the disk the water is not collected at all. I've needed to drive up to half mile after getting out of deep water before the drum brakes become fully functional again.

As far as drag goes, yes the disk pads do float on the surface. But they will fully release within a short distance. If they did not, then the components would rapidly heat up and fail.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Ragin Cajun said:


> My wifes LTZ had rear discs and I like the way the braking bias is setup. Its alot like my G35 was in that when braking hard the car doesnt nosedive. Thats the way brakes are supposed to work IMO. Having most braking power on the front wheels tends to throw you thru the windshield when braking hard.


I have a feeling a car's ability to nosedive isn't going to be determined by the strength of the rear brakes or the brake bias. I would imagine that has more to do with the weight distribution and suspension. 



Skilz10179 said:


> The reason our stock brakes suck and people want to upgrade is not because they aren't up to task for quick safe stops in the manor you just mentioned....
> 
> The problem with our brakes will be seen when you experience a series of repeated hard braking or in high speed braking, these situations will heat the brakes to the point where you will experience brake fade. Brake fade is when the brakes become so hot that coefficient of friction is lost and the brakes simply do not perform nearly as well as they did at lower temps.
> 
> Solutions are bigger rotors that can absorb more heat before brake fade occurs, bigger multi-piston calipers that have a better clamping force and performance brake pads that are made up of compounds that provide more friction to the rotors.


I'd like to present a few thoughts for discussion purposes. I read in a comedic article related to cars that if you need to make multiple repeated stops during day to day driving, you have a problem bigger than your brakes. Either that problem is a bunch of idiots who pull out in front of you one after another, or you're following too closely. However, having driven my Eco for a while and having had to make a few hard stops, I can't really see much of a problem with the braking capacity of the car on one, maybe two emergency stopping maneuvers. It's not a sports car after all. 

That said, I question the need for something bigger on the rear of the car. With our front-heavy weight distribution, how much braking does the back actually do? I don't know the exact percentage off the top of my head, but I'd guess it's somewhere around 80/20 front/rear. Sounds to me like any benefit to the rear brakes is going to be rather minor if you're looking for better emergency braking. As you mentioned, bigger rotors, better pads, bigger calipers, etc. I've personally experienced improvements in stopping distance from simple "premium/high performance" brake pad upgrades, although not all "high end" brake pads are created equal.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

GoldenCruze said:


> I have found the opposite to be true, especially if driving through deep water. The drum collects and holds water inside until it can drain out. With the disk the water is not collected at all. I've needed to drive up to half mile after getting out of deep water before the drum brakes become fully functional again.
> 
> As far as drag goes, yes the disk pads do float on the surface. But they will fully release within a short distance. If they did not, then the components would rapidly heat up and fail.


I wouldn't say they'd rapidly heat up and fail. It's not like you have a stuck caliper that's dragging, but it would be enough to cause a bit of pull. It won't make a huge difference, but you'll have some drag nonetheless. I think GM went for the "every last effort" approach to getting better fuel economy, and as many have proven with the Cruze Eco, it paid off.


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

Not to revive an old thread. I have been considering giving this a try for a while. Anyone know if Id have to switch the entire axle out, or are the rear spindles the same?


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## neary (May 15, 2013)

Why go through the hasle? I would say the drums are fine, i have driven my eco hard enough to make the front disks glow bright orange and the turbo light up the whole engine bay at night and i can honestly say that larger slotted rotors up front with larger calipers and some high performance ebc or dba pads would be suffucient for me. I don't see much benefit for disks out back on a car with a 70 30 weight distribution. Not to mention the parking brake swap 

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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I have been reading through this thread and the suggestion that drum brakes have less drag than discs seems to fail as the Cruze has front discs anyway. If bigger front brakes are wanted what about diesel ones as they are bigger ? Bolt pattern may cause issues though?

By the way when I have replaced brake pads on my old Holden Commodore the front wheels spun freely both before and after the new pads were put in. I did the work myself so I know this first hand. Rear wheels turned freely but the diff caused drag with one wheel still on the ground. Don't know about the Cruze but the Commodore had a separate drum built into the disc brake for the park brake, changing pads was a breeze.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

CruzeTech said:


> Not to revive an old thread. I have been considering giving this a try for a while. Anyone know if Id have to switch the entire axle out, or are the rear spindles the same?


The information I was told was that there are two axles that were used for the Cruze, and only one of them had the proper mounting points to add disc brakes, while the other axle lacks the mounting points and thus can only have drum brakes.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Ragin Cajun said:


> My wifes LTZ had rear discs and I like the way the braking bias is setup. Its alot like my G35 was in that when braking hard the car doesnt nosedive. Thats the way brakes are supposed to work IMO. Having most braking power on the front wheels tends to throw you thru the windshield when braking hard.


Anti squat and anti dive geometry are designed into suspensions for that very purpose, but that's not what's going on with the Cruze (for the most part).

The rear torsion beam suspension pushes the rear of the car down as braking torque is applied. This reduces the perceived front brake dive by keeping the car flatter. To see the effect very clearly, apply the parking brake lightly while rolling forward, and then do it while rolling backward.

A friend of mine had a Beretta a while back. It had a torsion beam rear end also, and had worn out shocks to boot. He would set the parking brake, rev the engine, and then proceed to engage and disengage the clutch making the back of the car bounce up and down. It looked like a dog humping someone's leg.


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## neary (May 15, 2013)

Aussie said:


> I have been reading through this thread and the suggestion that drum brakes have less drag than discs seems to fail as the Cruze has front discs anyway. If bigger front brakes are wanted what about diesel ones as they are bigger ? Bolt pattern may cause issues though?
> 
> By the way when I have replaced brake pads on my old Holden Commodore the front wheels spun freely both before and after the new pads were put in. I did the work myself so I know this first hand. Rear wheels turned freely but the diff caused drag with one wheel still on the ground. Don't know about the Cruze but the Commodore had a separate drum built into the disc brake for the park brake, changing pads was a breeze.


As a general statement, big rotors will help with heat dissipation which is good, but to really stop faster you need a better caliper i would be willing to bet the diesel using the same caliper slightly larger rotor if anything, i do not know this for a fact. The diesel engine is heavier so you need slightly better heat dissipation to keep the brakes operating properly. The best bet for those of us with drum rears is aftermarket calipers larger surface area rotors with slots it would be night and day but probably cost some serious coin maybe calipers off an sti or something could be retrofitted and aftermarket rotors with good pads could be a possibility

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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

There are already some people running around with other than factory front brakes for the Cruze. Member DFF has some Willwood retrofit brakes on his car, and the Sonic Brembo GT kit has all the same mount points as the Cruze. Just a matter of time before people upgrade. 


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> and the Sonic Brembo GT kit has all the same mount points as the Cruze. Just a matter of time before people upgrade.


 That is real nice and would love to have it but - I spent $16.5 K for my car new, do I want to spend $2800 for front Brakes - maybe.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

If your Cruze is nose diving under braking, your rear drums are not tightened correctly. They were off from the factory. 

My Cruze brakes very flat even when slamming the pedal hard. 


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> If your Cruze is nose diving under braking, your rear drums are not *tightened* correctly. They were off from the factory.


Replace the word "tightened" with "adjusted" and you're right on the money, J!


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

blk88verde said:


> That is real nice and would love to have it but - I spent $16.5 K for my car new, do I want to spend $2800 for front Brakes - maybe.


My words precisely in another thread about the same subject. 


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I agree that in an emergency stop drum rear brakes on a Cruze are not a problem. When you do serious laps on a racetrack they are not as good as all disc setup. When drum brakes are worked hard they get hot and expand away from the shoes, causing longer pedal travel and reducing the contact patch with shoe and drum. Discs on the other hand do not alter the contact patch and expansion does not have any effect. Heat may cause fade but recovery is much quicker and a good set of pads helps to control this.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> If your Cruze is nose diving under braking, your rear drums are not tightened correctly. They were off from the factory.
> 
> My Cruze brakes very flat even when slamming the pedal hard.
> 
> ...


Yeah I don't "Nose dive" but I have the Dodge Neon rake stance. Guess I need to get on that eventually so I can have a lower parking brake handle angle as well. Has anyone figured out if we ECO's are the short end of the stick yet and if switching to Z rear will ruin the aero flow of the rear components? I was reading here somewhere that our rear suspension didn't allow air to flow over top of it.


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## drivehard (Jan 2, 2014)

Need to get to a dealer asap and see what I got and see how much it would cost


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## drivehard (Jan 2, 2014)

How do we correct this nise dive problem....would like to fix it before it becomes a problem


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

drivehard said:


> How do we correct this nise dive problem....would like to fix it before it becomes a problem


I assume you meant "nose" dive?

If the rear brakes are working properly the Cruze brakes very level since the torque applied to the body from the twist beam under braking pulls the rear of the car down. Do a search on adjusting your rear drums and see if that's your problem. Hint: If your e-brake handle lifts too high or doesn't have enough travel to engage the brake properly your drums may need to be adjusted.


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## PinkPantiesonMe (Jun 5, 2012)

Sonic Brembo's ! WTF?


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

PinkPantiesonMe said:


> Sonic Brembo's ! WTF?


I don't understand your post at all, the Sonic Brembos are only for the front hubs.


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## prince_bigd (Jul 16, 2013)

Cost wise unless youre going to seriously autocross your car just some quality rotors like Centric or EBC plain rotors plus some nice aggressive pads will do wonders. Id also recommend upgrading to a higher spec brake fluid. I think these three mods would total around 15% the cost of the Brembo kit and probably provide better day to day stopping. Issue you have to look at too is if you go with that big an upgrade on the front and stock on the back is you throw off your brake balance front to rear. More front braking force means it shifts the balance forward. Meaning more weight transfer and nose dive forward. Which introduces more heat on the front rotors and pads even with a big brake kit.


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

I think we're looking at this the wrong way. I was on GMPD (GM Parts Direct) and the hub assembly for the discs and drums have the same part number. So, wouldn't you only need the backing plate, the dust shield, the caliper, the hose, the pads and the monitor/pump. I have a 2012 eco MT. I'll probably take some pictures and do some looking soon.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Clausses said:


> I think we're looking at this the wrong way. I was on GMPD (GM Parts Direct) and the hub assembly for the discs and drums have the same part number. So, wouldn't you only need the backing plate, the dust shield, the caliper, the hose, the pads and the monitor/pump. I have a 2012 eco MT. I'll probably take some pictures and do some looking soon.


you don't even need the monitor pump to complete the rear disc swap on a zlink rear axle


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

SneakerFix said:


> you don't even need the monitor pump to complete the rear disc swap on a zlink rear axle


I think only the autos have the zlink rear axle. I wouldn't buy a car with an auto.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Clausses said:


> I think only the autos have the zlink rear axle. I wouldn't buy a car with an auto.


Auto Eco, yes.

It varies on the LS/LT MT's. I think 2012 had them for both, 2013+ only 1LT w/ RS package. 2LT's all have Z-link.


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

So, pretty much all I need are the brake components, some fluid, and that reservoir monitor thing.


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

Also, does anyone have the part number for the control-valve thing? It'll be on my list of things to acquire eventually.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Clausses said:


> Also, does anyone have the part number for the control-valve thing? It'll be on my list of things to acquire eventually.



again you don't need the valve to complete the rear disc conversion.


a rear swap can cost anywhere from 100 bucks to 600 to finish depending on how you source your parts


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

What does the valve thing do and why do/don't I need it? And, just to verify, the only parts I need are the calipers, rotors, pads, lines, the dust shield, and the backing plates, right?


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Clausses said:


> What does the valve thing do and why do/don't I need it? And, just to verify, the only parts I need are the calipers, rotors, pads, lines, the dust shield, and the backing plates, right?



Which rear axle do you have?


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

I was told GNF. I was going to buy the mounting bracket thing for the caliper to see if it bolted up, just to be sure.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Clausses said:


> I was told GNF. I was going to buy the mounting bracket thing for the caliper to see if it bolted up, just to be sure.



Only works on the GNG zlink/watts link axle.. GNf was never offered with rear disc


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

The hub/bearing assembly is the same for both the disc and drums, so I figured I could just bolt the mounting plate on and then the rest of the disc parts. What would be in the way of this?


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

GNG and gnf axles aren't the same they use different mounting on that part of the axle. But you can try it maybe it will bolt on but of it doesn't you'll need to locate a GNG axle and that's 500 plus loaded


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

How come my 2LT has rear disc brakes when someone posted theirs has drums. Want to trade?

GM could never make a good rear caliper yet and the Cruze is no exception, key problem is attempting to combine the parking with the service brakes. And need to work the parking brake for adjustment. And as opposed to drums with some protection against road salt protecting the inwards, the calipers are totally exposed to road salt. After two short salt seasons, refused to adjust at all with the brake pedal going clear to the floor. 

Older rear disc calipers were using a spring steel band around the back of the piston with tabs on it that should bite in one direction slide back in the other. These really were crap, would gorge up the pistons and only more the piston back and forth leaving a large gap between the pad and the rotor.

Have no idea what they are doing today, but failing just as quick. Begged my dealer to borrow one so I could learn what makes it tick, he wasn't very accommodating. Shop manual is worthless, says just replace them, as opposed to a wheel cylinder cost around 15 times as much. But sure would like to know what they are using for a ratcheting system. Ha, to pump my brakes before coming to a stop, and if I saw someone that wasn't looking before pulling out, had to pre pump those just in case. 

Better to have some brakes than no brakes at all, but still really can't tell much difference between rear drums or calipers for stopping power. Only about 20% anyway.

Have to agree something has to be done to the ABS, sure dumped the proportioning valves on these newer cars, another way to save a buck, so getting more mileage out the the ABS with some firmware to pulse the rears by adding some code. And discs are definitely different than shoes. Parking brake cable is a must. Also got the weird ideal they could replace limited slip with more code to the ABS but pulsing the spinning wheel, but sure doesn't work even 1% as well as limited slip.

Copied those crazy pad holders with clips from my Supra, couldn't have copied a worse thing, a natural trap for road salt that freezes the pads. Same problem with the Supra, have to stay on top of this. What they did not copy off the Surpa, is using a convention cheap inherently self adjustable caliper for the service, with a rotor with a drum in it for the parking brake.

If these idiots are going to copy something, should learn what is good and what is bad. Same way with the drums going back to the 41 Chevy with those pins holding the shoes and weak coiled returned springs. Sure got this right with my 04 Cavalier, been trouble free for over 130K miles now. So why didn't they just stick with this design for the drums?

You want extra problems with a huge extra expense, switch your drums to discs.


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

If I switched to discs I wouldn't use factory calipers. I'd find some that would bolt up that are more performance oriented and I'd have to get all the parking-brake stuff, too. It's still better than shoes that I keep managing to fracture. I'm on my third set of shoes in 13K miles because the first two have fractured and shattered, respectively.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

NikeD I'll trade you I'll send you all my drum parts for all your disc parts. The drums have 1k miles on them. 


If you were to add performance calipers You'll need away to add a parking brake or no parking brake at all. But then again I haven't had one issue since I converted to disc


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## Clausses (Sep 8, 2014)

Nick, if you lived close to me I'd come do the swap tomorrow, lol. I'll just get a hydraulic hand-brake.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I have had mostly all disk cars for the last 20 years with no problems. We have had lots of rain in Sydney this past week and the Cruze brakes have been flawless. On the other hand my wife's Hyundai which has rear drum brakes has been locking the rear brakes at low speed until they dried out. If driven in deep water the Hyundai loses the rear stopping altogether. If you believe that on a FWD car the rear brakes only do 20% of the braking then that 20% sure makes a big difference.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Maybe I will buy one of these and quit complaining, ha, like to complaint.

Eastwood Electroplating System Tin Zinc Plating Kit | eBay

Really don't need a bucket, safety glasses, that D size battery pack, just the chemicals. Ha, now I wish I paid more attention to our plating equipment, recall something about cadmium, zinc, or even gold balls. Just learned how to use it, not the chemical involved. Maybe not too old to learn.

Ha, already stated that the rear drums on the Cruze was crap, wonder if drums off an 04 Cavalier would fit. Already lost my battle with city hall on the extensive use of road salt, have a lot more success in talking to my wall.


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## achefsalad (Mar 3, 2016)

I own a 2014 Cruze LT, when I called the dealer about which rear axle I have he told me I gotta, "353". When I asked about a GNG or GNC rear axle he couldn't find anything. I even called another dealer before realizing how old this post is. Does anyone know how I can find out if I can do a drum to rotor conversion?


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

achefsalad said:


> I own a 2014 Cruze LT, when I called the dealer about which rear axle I have he told me I gotta, "353". When I asked about a GNG or GNC rear axle he couldn't find anything. I even called another dealer before realizing how old this post is. Does anyone know how I can find out if I can do a drum to rotor conversion?


There are other threads on this subject. And people have done it. The actually chassis of the car is no different than the cars that have discs. So, it's all about getting all of the parts to swap it out.


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## achefsalad (Mar 3, 2016)

thanks, much appreciated!


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## Jarret (Feb 4, 2021)

Smurfenstein said:


> As everyone knows, ZZP is coming out with a rotor/caliper kit for our car; however, ECO and LS owners have drum brakes on their rear axles and therefore need some sort of conversion kit.
> 
> Now, I went to my dealership today to ask a couple questions, and here are the answers;
> 
> ...


What is the difference in axles that makes it doable and I doable from one to another?


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## Jarret (Feb 4, 2021)

CruzeTech said:


> Not to revive an old thread. I have been considering giving this a try for a while. Anyone know if Id have to switch the entire axle out, or are the rear spindles the same?


I will leave you with a link to my thread which takes this further with gm documents 








Drum to disc


You can actually convert your drum brake Cruze to a disc brake car with relatively easy steps, it doesn’t matter what axle you have, the only difference between the two are the Z-link, think about it, why would GM design an entirely different axle for drum and disc brakes? all you have to do is...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Jarret said:


> What is the difference in axles that makes it doable and I doable from one to another?


Smurfenstein has not been online here since 2017, but CruzeTech is still here. I have been interested in doing this for some time although I also want to add the ZLink setup. Once I find what all the parts are that need to be changed, I am probably going to source them this spring.

I did not understand the second half of your question above though.


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## Jarret (Feb 4, 2021)

Blasirl said:


> Smurfenstein has not been online here since 2017, but CruzeTech is still here. I have been interested in doing this for some time although I also want to add the ZLink setup. Once I find what all the parts are that need to be changed, I am probably going to source them this spring.
> 
> I did not understand the second half of your question above though.


Oh I was just asking what made it not possible on the other axle, that was before I discovered that it is doable on my axle at least


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

Jarret said:


> Oh I was just asking what made it not possible on the other axle, that was before I discovered that it is doable on my axle at least


I will most likely be doing this within a month and doing a full write up of the conversion with part numbers. I just need to source a few more things and I will get started


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