# Catalytic Converter gone bad



## BOB_BEAR (Apr 23, 2013)

It's been a while since I've posted here. Sadly, it's not for the better

My 2013 Cruze 1.4 had the check engine light come on. Took it to the delership and said the catalytic converter has gone bad. I have 82k miles, and the dealership says it is NOT covered by my extended care warranty. Said it would cost $1400 to repair. Anyone else had this happen to them?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I would try a rear O2 sensor before replacing the cat. converter. I assume you got an O2 sensor code?

There shouldn't be any reason for the catalyst to go bad unless the car was misfiring or running rich in the first place.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

You should look up emissions systems that are covered under warranty and how long they are covered for . I have to date never read about a catalytic converter going bad after only 2 years .. as j wrote this reads as if there is some other problem . have the codes read at autozone or comperable parts store and then analyzed for more information for us to elaborate further !


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Did the code for the bad cat show up? I had the same code cleared it and never came back


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

brian v said:


> You should look up emissions systems that are covered under warranty and how long they are covered for . I have to date never read about a catalytic converter going bad after only 2 years .. as j wrote this reads as if there is some other problem . have the codes read at autozone or comperable parts store and then analyzed for more information for us to elaborate further !


Unfortunately the emissions warranty goes out @ 80K.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Would be nice to get the code HaH .


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## BOB_BEAR (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks for all the replies! 

I'm not sure what codes popped up on the diagnostic test. The car is at the dealership as I type this and won't get it back till tomorrow. I'll let you know as soon as possible what the report reads..after I pay the $39.95 diagnostic fee...ughh.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Look into a Bluetooth OBD2 code reader along with the Toque APP .. you will want the BASF code reader ..


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## BOB_BEAR (Apr 23, 2013)

Dealership confirmed it was a bad catalytic converter. 

I contacted GM to see if they could help men out since it JUST went over the warranty. They gave me a case number and told me a senior tech advisor would be in touch with me. That was two days ago. Still haven't heard from them. I bought this car brand new with an extended warranty. Looks like I'm SOL. 

The car seems to be running fine. Took it to auto zone for diagnostic check. They said it was a P0420 code.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Double check your extended warranty paperwork. Don't just trust the dealership to know what is and is not covered - there are way too many different extended warranties for dealerships to track them all.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

BOB_BEAR said:


> Dealership confirmed it was a bad catalytic converter.
> 
> I contacted GM to see if they could help men out since it JUST went over the warranty. They gave me a case number and told me a senior tech advisor would be in touch with me. That was two days ago. Still haven't heard from them. I bought this car brand new with an extended warranty. Looks like I'm SOL.
> 
> The car seems to be running fine. Took it to auto zone for diagnostic check. They said it was a P0420 code.



thats the same code I pulled I cleared it and it never came back on


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Some interesting reading about P0420. 

I believe you can graph the mV signal of both the front and rear oxygen sensor using the Torque App.

The Misleading Nature of the PO42O Code - Eastern Manufacturing

UPDATED LINK:





The Misleading Nature of the PO42O or PO430 Code







www.discountconverter.com


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## BOB_BEAR (Apr 23, 2013)

I called the extended warranty company and they confirmed a catalytic converter is not covered. I find that crazy. Dwight Schrute was right. Warranties are a rip off :-/ 

Gonna disconnect the battery to see if that clears it.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'm not sure what the lifespan of a cat is. But I'm not sure as one would go at that age without some help from something upstream during it's warranty period. That's why I'd hope they'd do it as good will. I'm not sure as the failure was all in the last 2K miles. It just didn't turn on the light.


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

Was the car tuned? What type of gas did you put in? Did you use a "Top Tier" fuel? Did you put gas treatment in? Did the car start acting weird?
Just some questions to help understand what might of caused the problem.


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## boneheaddoctor (Dec 10, 2014)

Short of someone putting leaded fuel into it or a condition that would cause it to literally melt into a blob....I've seen cars with 175K miles and 250k miles with the original cats in place. The one in my Honda lasted to about 175k miles until I ran over something on the road that hit it dented the case and fractured the ceramic honycomb core the Paladuim alloy that does the work is plated over into about 6 chunks.


I found out when one of them migrated back to the resonator and managed to rotate sideways causeing a world class restriction with the other chunks right behind it.

Was convinced it was a plugged cat unitl I removed it...saw it empty...and was thinking back...it wasn't empty when I put this engine in...and it wasn't empty when I passed all those Northern VA dynomometer based emissions tests easily every year. Found them when I took the rest of the exhaust system appart. If I didn't have a 2.5" system on the car...they would never have moved.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm not sure what the lifespan of a cat is. But I'm not sure as one would go at that age without some help from something upstream during it's warranty period. That's why I'd hope they'd do it as good will. I'm not sure as the failure was all in the last 2K miles. It just didn't turn on the light.


A catalytic converter has a lifespan of 10 years at which time they tend to 
Clog and the precious metals react with an adverse chemistry .. 
A good 1 will appear to be charcoal white . a bad 1 will appear dark black ..

Chemical make up of the metals exposed to the extreme heat generated over long periods of time contributes to the degeneration of these metals .. and if there is an excessive amount of rich burning cycles produced for the cat to eliminate from the exhaust streams this may have a possible affect on the longevity of said catylitic converter ..


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## BOB_BEAR (Apr 23, 2013)

I use unleaded 87 fuel. Car is bone stock. 

It still drives perfect. 

I drive strictly highway miles. Always kept up with maintenance. 

I actually started it up right now and the light went away. Went to Walgreens. Got back in the car and after five minutes of driving the light came back on. Not sure what to think.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I suspect a sensor. Take a look at the link about how to diagnose this code. You may not need a new cat. We have seen O2 sensors go out on the Cruze.


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

BOB_BEAR said:


> I called the extended warranty company and they confirmed a catalytic converter is not covered. I find that crazy. Dwight Schrute was right. Warranties are a rip off :-/
> 
> Gonna disconnect the battery to see if that clears it.


I never could figure out that all the extended warranties I was offered none of them went past the emissions warranty and none of them went into high mileage. Also reading the fine print they really don't cover anything. 

Give me one for 20 years and 200,000 miles and you would have my interest.

Sucks that GM won't at least give you some help since you are only 2,000 miles over. Like maybe half off of parts and or labor. Loyalty should count for something.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Thta's in your brain .. Billable HOUR ..............


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Cats fail for any number of reasons...fail means it does an inadequate job of converting HC..not to be confused with a meltdown that restricts the exaust.

Sometimes too much sulfer in the fuel, sometimes the substrate overheats and the cat becomes less effective.
The O2 sensors look at the unburned gases prior to and after catalyst treatment.....a code sets if the 'in' reading and 'out' reading haven't changed enouph, meaning a dead cat.

I would be inclined to replace both sensors before I pitch the cat though.....and, if I replace a cat I replace both sensors anyways just so the readings are crisp again.

Catalytic converters have never been a covered a repair for any brand extended warranty ever.......the folks that do the actuarials know that this is a failure that can happen at any time......sux, but thats the way it has always been.

Rob


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## MyShibbyEco (Jan 21, 2012)

http://service.gm.com/gmspo/mode6/pdf/2012/12OBDG02 Engine Diagnostics.pdf

page 74 through 77, or Ctrl+F to P0420. Gives plenty of description about conditions, how it's set, etc. By what it says, I would agree with the others and replace O2 sensors first.


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## Daisy81 (Jun 17, 2012)

Robby said:


> Cats fail for any number of reasons...fail means it does an inadequate job of converting HC..not to be confused with a meltdown that restricts the exaust.
> 
> Sometimes too much sulfer in the fuel, sometimes the substrate overheats and the cat becomes less effective.
> The O2 sensors look at the unburned gases prior to and after catalyst treatment.....a code sets if the 'in' reading and 'out' reading haven't changed enouph, meaning a dead cat.
> ...


So lets say you have driven 70,000 miles on the car. Does this mean that the cat is doing ok and short of something striking it on the road it will do ok or are you saying the catalytic converter is a grenade in the engine with a loose pin that could self destruct the engine at any time?

How much do these things cost to replace?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Daisy81 said:


> So lets say you have driven 70,000 miles on the car. Does this mean that the cat is doing ok and short of something striking it on the road it will do ok or are you saying the catalytic converter is a grenade in the engine with a loose pin that could self destruct the engine at any time?
> 
> How much do these things cost to replace?


Like all systems, catalytic converters do fail. My Transport (240,000 miles) and Montana (186,000 miles) never had a catalytic converter fail. Most people will never have one fail. Replacing one isn't that labor intensive but the converter itself is somewhat pricy. OP was quoted $1,400 to replace his. I suspect $1,200 was for the cat and $200 was for labor. You put the car on a lift, cut the converter out and put a new one in.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Daisy81 said:


> So lets say you have driven 70,000 miles on the car. Does this mean that the cat is doing ok and short of something striking it on the road it will do ok or are you saying the catalytic converter is a grenade in the engine with a loose pin that could self destruct the engine at any time?
> 
> How much do these things cost to replace?


Not really a timebomb.....cats fail as a result of something, often fuel (quality) related, sometimes a result of a one time occurence such as a extreme case of fuel flooding.
Speculation abounds and, in the grand scheme of things, I'll bet far less than 1% of the entire, catalyst equipped vehicle population ever has a problem.

Certainly not the kind of thing to frett over......unless you are the unfortunate soul that has the failure.

Rob


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## Daisy81 (Jun 17, 2012)

So it is sort of like the transmission ripping itself apart. The likelihood of having it dies on you twice with one car is not very high and I might not even have to run into it. phew


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

There's also dozens of video's on youtube about cleaning converters for this P0420 Code. While I wouldn't do some of the red neck solutions like pouring direct solvent in the gas tank, I would consider a product like Seafoam, or the equivalent product from CRC in the gas tank. 

Pouring this in accordance with the instructions on the can into the fuel system and driving for several hundred miles.

It appears that this code is an efficiency of the converter code, and it's possible to set the code with the converter working at <95% efficiency. I suspect due to government regulations there's not much allowable range in a code like this.

The real problem is if you're in a state where you have emission testing to obtain yearly registration tabs. I'm guessing a P0420 will have to be reset before going, and you'll have to drive it enough to get most of the emission tests to go complete. Any sense of a P0420 and I'm guessing you wouldn't pass. 

To the original poster, if you don't fix it, may be time for a scan tool like the Torque App.

Otherwise, do some googling to educate yourself as to if you really want to fix this one.

If you have the cat replaced and want to make some money, require the shop to give the old cat with the material stuck inside back to you. In my area used cats get $30-$100 at a scrap metal processor. I don't believe there's a core charged on cat converters from repair shops, but some of them like to keep them, so they get the easy scrap value.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

The biggest problem with this issue IMO is that the average home mechanic is not even able to purchase a catylitic at a local supplier ..The sale of these parts are strictly regulated by design ..

I had to replace 1 back in cal. around 1999 or so what a pita to get my hands on 1 for $ 500.00 .. so I scoured the junkyards until I lucked on 1 .. that is when the fun began ..this particular cat bolted up with the exhaùst manifold piece of cake hah .. ahah no.. I purchased a front drivers seat and thats all I m saying .. to let ya know Me crx passed smog and the state of cal. sent me a letter thanking me for conforming to the smog regulations .. piece of pie .............................................with greaser on IT .. sup j ...


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Brian-

Don't go scaring people. You're talking about emissions in California. If you're in California emissions regulations suck it's one of the worst in the country. 

Cat's are in the rockauto catalog, and while some can't be shipped to Cali because they don't meet California emissions they can be sent everywhere else. 

I don't think there's a listing for a car as new as a Cruze. The only option now would be to try cleaning solvents in the gas tank or possibly a used cat via a salvage yard. Maybe there are regulations imposed in certain states about the sale of this "emission component" in the secondary reuse market. 

Not sure but not worried about it either!


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Why ahh the truth is the truth .. and if you think that Rockauto can ship you a cat well then your lucky .. in my experience with emission components you are better off getting professional help either way ..

And if you think cal. is strict well check with your own state regulations surrounding these issues .. usually the legislation that is inacted first are observed by other states and then will eventualy wind up on other states dockets .. so definately do some research about your states emissions regulations ... or do what I did ahh buy a front seat ..


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Rockauto shows a listing for the 2012 1.4L for $152. But it is not California or New York Approved..

They show the cat as part of a 50" piece of exhaust pipe under the car. You get everything, it's a big one. I thought the cat was right after the exhaust turbo. Maybe the picture is wrong for $152.0. What's the "can" looking component directly downstream of the turbo, is that a Pre Cat?

Anyway, fears solved, move out of CA, or NY, and get an indendent mechanic.


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## bostonboy (Apr 8, 2015)

I would look at ebay

22780527 | eBay


$525 shipped rear This is the route I would go if it was me

55578984 | eBay


this is the front one $470 I hope this helps & I'm sure you will need some thing else like gaskets.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Here is another possibility:


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## jsusanka (Jan 31, 2011)

KENSTV123 said:


> Here is another possibility:


Is that the battery negative terminal problem that GM sent letters to owners?


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Nope-appears to be another ground, probably affects the injectors, my guess is erratic sensor signals from the ground causes the engine control module to over fuel the engine resulting in the bad cat--just a WAG


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## atikovi (Dec 27, 2011)

If you're still looking for cats, I posted mine in the classifieds: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/53-c...converter-2-000-mile-2013-lt.html#post1817401


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## BOB_BEAR (Apr 23, 2013)

Hi guys. 

Sorry for the delay in getting back to the message board. 

I was going back and forth with GM and they ultimately decided not to offer any type of assistance. 

Apparently the dealership told GM they wouldn't help me because I have no maintenance records with them. And they also said they couldn't help me because I didn't buy the car from them. Crazy. I know. 

the car runs perfect. Check engine light is still on. Fuel economy is the same. 

Based on some of your suggestions I see I should look into changing the oxygen sensors. Could someone point me to a part number for this? I'm not the most technical person. 

And thanks again for all your comments. This truly is a great community.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

BOB_BEAR said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> Sorry for the delay in getting back to the message board.
> 
> ...


Post-cat sensor (probably the one you want to replace) is ACD # 2134698 and comes in at a whopping $24.

Pre-cat sensor (may as well - controls your A/F ratio) is ACD # 2134674 @ $43.

Check out RockAuto for the parts - they've got great prices and pretty quick shipping times.


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## bostonboy (Apr 8, 2015)

BOB_BEAR said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> Sorry for the delay in getting back to the message board.
> 
> ...


Hello
Sorry to hear this, but there was a guy who had what you are looking for the post above you. I don't know if they are still for sale but IMO a great price. I would also do what jBlackburn says 1st because if this don't help you would want new sensors in when you do change the cats. Please keep us posted on what happen thanks


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## hahiragal (Jul 1, 2015)

It should be covered under the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Mine went out too in my 2013 Cruze and it was covered by the powertrain warranty. I would call GM.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

That 80K mile emissions warranty came out in the early 70's and just like our property tax deduction, hasn't been changed with inflation. Lucky even to hit 100K miles back then.

Really paranoid about driving on snow covered roads, after complete exhaust manifold back replacement, somebody dropped a muffler buried in the snow that ripped the entire brand new system out.

Rich mixture is another cause of failure, but not really guess work, remove the O2 sensor and replace with a low pressure gauge, if over a couple of psi, have problems, each engine has its own specification. Yeah, and don't forget to replace the O2 sensor if there is anything left of it. Suckers sure rust in living in a 1,400*F environment. 

Cats are strictly way after the fact for emissions control, ideally should be done up front. But have to live with this BS ever since 1972. One key reason why I clean my spark plugs every five minutes. Well it seems this way, love the Cruze for this, actually a fun job. Try a V-6 or 8 on a FWD, those back ones can be murder.


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## Leviathan (Aug 11, 2013)

At 46k miles my car was throwing a P0420 code for catalyst under efficiency bank 2( believe). I took it to the dealer and they said it was the cat, they replaced it. Some background, I mostly fuel up at Flying J /w 87 as it's on my way to/from work. If I'm around Costco I'll fuel up there /w 87 and periodically throw some chevron or other fuel treatment into the tank. I don't ball out for the 91 octane, haven't had any noticeable improvements at all so I stopped going 91. With all this said, I understand Flying J probably doesn't use the best or most detergents in their fuel for the longevity of your vehicle. Since the cat has been replaced I have been fueling at Costco for their extra detergent additive. I will let you all know how I'm doing around 80k-90k miles on the cat.


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## cmarchel13 (Jan 2, 2015)

If I'm not mistaken, early Cobalts had issues with P0420 codes being set and having cats replaced. Around 2008 they issued a tsb I think calling for reprogramming. The cats were fine... Could be the same situation maybe?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

cmarchel13 said:


> If I'm not mistaken, early Cobalts had issues with P0420 codes being set and having cats replaced. Around 2008 they issued a tsb I think calling for reprogramming. The cats were fine... Could be the same situation maybe?


They actually did this with the recent emissions recall for automatic 1.4T Cruzes.


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## cavedogjr9 (Jul 27, 2015)

Hi I have the same problem pop up days ago. I have 2013 cruze ltz with the p0420 code. I called my nearest dealer (62,000 miles) I told them the code and they said they couldn't tell me unless I brought it in. they said it was going to be 152 diagnosis charge too if it wasn't cover by warranty which I believe I missed it by 2000 .


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

cavedogjr9 said:


> Hi I have the same problem pop up days ago. I have 2013 cruze ltz with the p0420 code. I called my nearest dealer (62,000 miles) I told them the code and they said they couldn't tell me unless I brought it in. they said it was going to be 152 diagnosis charge too if it wasn't cover by warranty which I believe I missed it by 2000 .


18,000 left on emissions (80,000) and 38,000 left on power train (100,000). B2B died 26,000 miles ago (36,000).


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## cavedogjr9 (Jul 27, 2015)

Sweet I'll take it in when I can this week and I'll let you guys know how it goes .


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

cavedogjr9 said:


> Hi I have the same problem pop up days ago. I have 2013 cruze ltz with the p0420 code. I called my nearest dealer (62,000 miles) I told them the code and they said they couldn't tell me unless I brought it in. they said it was going to be 152 diagnosis charge too if it wasn't cover by warranty which I believe I missed it by 2000 .


Hi Cavedogjr9, 

Very sorry for the recent concerns, but I'm happy to hear that you are going to be heading into the dealership this week. Feel free to let me know if you need any additional assistance. I'm always happy to get in touch with the dealership, and forward them your information. Just send me over a private message! 

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## cavedogjr9 (Jul 27, 2015)

So I took the cruze in and I had a couple recalls they are going to do.. eng coolant and reprogram eng control module. I'm crossing my toes whatever is wrong is covered by warranty.


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## bornchevy (Mar 19, 2013)

I had this same issue happen recently. The check engine light started going on and off at about 94k miles. Took it to Autozone and they said it was a problem with an O2 sensor. The light finally started staying on at about 99k after a regular dealer service. They checked it for me because they thought it was the dip stick or oil filler cap. They said it was the "catalytic converter not operating at proper efficiency". I also have been playing "service tag" trying to have the most recent recall performed. I work out of town and can only get service done on Saturdays. My dealership is great about working with me and we are trying to get the recall done when we can both be in the right place one Saturday.

The reason I bring up the recent recall is because it is for the engine running too rich at higher rpms and wot. I'm wondering how this affected my catalytic converter and if it contributed to it's premature failure to meet proper efficiency? I know it's not the fuel as I always buy my fuel from Shell and use only premium octane. I think it's the rich mixture causing the failure due to my daily commute. I drive 90 miles one way on and off highways and turnpikes meaning I am accelerating at very high rpms and sometimes wot daily. I think that GM should replace the cat and/or O2 sensors due to their failure to properly program my car in the beginning and I will be bringing this up to the dealership once I can get an appt. to have the recall performed. If I get no joy from the dealership I will be moving on to GM directly.

My only other option is to remove the cat completely and apply a "tune" that eliminates the requirement for the reading that throws that code. I am certainly not paying $400-$800 to have a cat replaced when I can spend that money on a tune and get better performance.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

bornchevy said:


> I had this same issue happen recently. The check engine light started going on and office at about 94k miles. Took it to Autozone and they said it was a problem with an O2 sensor. The light finally started staying on at about 99k after a regular dealer service. They checked it for me because they thought it was the dip stick or oil filler cap. They said it was the "catalytic converter not operating at proper efficiency". I also have been playing "service tag" trying to have the most recent recall performed. I work out of town and can only get service done on Saturdays. My dealership is great about working with me and we are trying to get the recall done when we can both be in the right place one Saturday.
> 
> The reason I bring up the recent recall is because it is for the engine running too rich at higher rpms and wot. I'm wondering how this affected my catalytic converter and if it contributed to it's premature failure to meet proper efficiency? I know it's not the fuel as I always buy my fuel from Shell and use only premium octane. I think it's the rich mixture causing it due to my daily commute. I drive 90 miles one way on and off highways and turnpikes meaning I am accelerating at very high rpms and sometimes wot daily. I think that GM should replace the cat and/or O2 sensors due to their failure to properly program my car in the beginning and I will be bringing this up to the dealership once I can get an appt. to have the recall performed. If I get no joy from the dealership I will be moving on to GM directly.
> 
> My only other option is to remove the cat completely and apply a "tune" that eliminates the requirement for the reading that throws that code. I am certainly not paying $400-$800 to have a cat replaced when I can spend that money on a tune and get better performance.


I would agree with you - and it's likely that running rich has slightly degraded the cat converter's performance. 

The new update was also supposed to address the cat. converter efficiency codes, so in addition to changing fueling parameters at high throttle openings/high RPM, they may also reprogram the limits for that rear O2 sensor to make it stop throwing catalyst efficiency codes.

That catalyst efficiency code was also common on my old car as they got up there in age (150-200K miles); most people simply put on an O2 sensor spacer and went on with their lives.


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## atikovi (Dec 27, 2011)

bornchevy said:


> I am certainly not paying $400-$800 to have a cat replaced when I can spend that money on a tune and get better performance.


I'm selling one off a 4,000 mile 2012 LT for $150.


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## mjspiess (Nov 11, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> Some interesting reading about P0420.
> 
> I believe you can graph the mV signal of both the front and rear oxygen sensor using the Torque App.
> 
> The Misleading Nature of the PO42O Code - Eastern Manufacturing


I just got P0420 Saturday night. My guess is the catatlytic converter needs replaced, but I'm not sure. It seems like my O2 sensors are working as they should. I took a video of my UltraGauge monitoring:

Short/Long Fuel Trim
O2 Sensor 1/2 Voltage
Catalytic Converter Temperature/AFR
Boost/Fuel Pressure






From the article: "After this, look at the wave forms between the front and rear O2 sensors. If the front O2 wave form is switching from high to low (rich to lean) and the rear is close to a straight line, the original converter should be OK. If the rear O2 sensor is mimicking the front one, the converter most likely took damage and may need to be replaced."

Based on that, it seems like the converter might be OK since the rear O2 sensor it not mimicking the front one.

From the article: "The front O2 sensor should be switching from rich (over 600mV) to lean (under 300mV) and the rear O2 sensor, or converter monitor, should be a nice, smooth line with minimal variance in mV. When looking at the values of the O2 sensors pay particular attention to the switching rate of the sensors and be sure that neither the front nor rear sensor drops out or spikes for extended amounts of time. If either a slow switching rate or spike/drop-out happens, but the O2 then recovers and appears to be operating normally, the O2 sensor may be starting to deteriorate – or as a lot of people say, “It has become lazy” and may need to be replaced."

Based on this, it seems like the front O2 sensor may be a little lazy. The refresh rate of the UltraGauge could make it seem like it is not rapidly switching back and forth, but it seems like it would throw a code for the first O2 sensor.

Any thoughts?


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## Disappointedinchevy (Jan 31, 2016)

My 2013 Cruze's catalytic converter went on April of '15 too! I forget mileage but it was around 30,000 and dealership said they've never had one go. Chevy replaced it and paid for rental car. Now my clutch went and according to the mechanic it is also a manufacturers defect. I have 36,900 miles on the car. So very disappointed in this model.....trying to get rid of it but there's always something wrong!


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## Arw1993 (Jan 22, 2017)

I have a 2012 chevy cruze eco manual . Have had a lot of problems. Transmission went out, water pump, radiator, pcv valve. All under warranty.* Most recent problem tho was the knock sensor failed and messed up my timing so bad the car sounded like an old diesel motor. The replaced that (not covered by warranty) and a week later still sounded the same. They started getting into the engine found that the timing chain guide rail broke? They didn't charge me for that. But ever since then ive always checked under the hood and have been finding my catalytic converter to be glowing red?? Idk why or if this is normal? I dont drive the car like a race car. Its an eco. But i complained so much that they replaced it for free. And they found a code. Only thing is. The cat is still getting red hot even with the new one. Any ideas of whats wrong with my demon car? Thanks about 77,xxx on the car


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

I killed a cat in my 13 at 60K and I was leaking at the line you check for the orange ball. The rubber o ring was pinched, have you had a dealer replace valve cover and intake manifold?


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## Linda B. (Oct 12, 2017)

Robby said:


> Not really a timebomb.....cats fail as a result of something, often fuel (quality) related, sometimes a result of a one time occurence such as a extreme case of fuel flooding.
> Speculation abounds and, in the grand scheme of things, I'll bet far less than 1% of the entire, catalyst equipped vehicle population ever has a problem.
> 
> Certainly not the kind of thing to frett over......unless you are the unfortunate soul that has the failure.
> ...


Robby, if I just had a major engine repair done under warranty with a vacuum leak causing the engine to run rich, then that could have caused the early failure. Come on man, I've owned 100 years + worth of cars and never heard of a cat converter failing. LOTS of other parts fail like O2 sensors, but not this. Something caused it.


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## Linda B. (Oct 12, 2017)

carbon02 said:


> Brian-
> 
> Don't go scaring people. You're talking about emissions in California. If you're in California emissions regulations suck it's one of the worst in the country.
> 
> ...


lol there isn't a listing for a car this new because IT's NOT SUPPOSED TO FAIL lol. You guys are helping a lot. God, how I love the internet. There is no new problem known to man. Am going to have fun down at the dealership tomorrow while they explain how the catalytic converter in a 3 yr old car needs to be replaced and that it has nothing to do with the engine repair 3 months ago.


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## cruzer2013 (Jun 22, 2017)

Code PO420 "Catalyst system efficiency below threshold" would leave one to be that the catalyst honeycomb is covered with something or temp is too "cold" for it to work, O2 sensor sending bogus reading to ECM, but not throwing a malfunction code PO174-178. Also trouble codes for cat.conv. don't tell you if it's the pre-cat or the 
"big dog" so they're charging you for replacing both. You have 2 heated O2 sensors sending data (upstream & downstream sensors) that info tells the ECM whether the cats are working or not. Is it idle it's not up to snuff or cruise? Has the dealer done a tailpipe dyno emissions test? That would really tell you what's working/not working, keep in mind O2 sensor also tells the ECM to make the fuel/air richer or leaner which will throw off a cats. ability to work properly.


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## Diana81 (Apr 17, 2019)

My 2015 Chevy cruise, emission Light went on also at 82000Miles and again it was Catalytic converters, and they said not covered as well, the warranty is 80,000 or 8years which ever comes first
How Ironic both at 82000 and WEIRD


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Diana81 said:


> My 2015 Chevy cruise, emission Light went on also at 82000Miles and again it was Catalytic converters, and they said not covered as well, the warranty is 80,000 or 8years which ever comes first
> How Ironic both at 82000 and WEIRD


Welcome Aboard:welcome:

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

What is the code?


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## tutemeluzun (May 11, 2019)

I had this code too. First tried cat clean it went away and a month later came back. Changed the o2 sensors came back. So I went ahead and changed the catalytic converter. Couple weeks later came right back. So I found these o2 spacers on eBay it even says code fixer or whatever. Put the spacer in front of the back o2 and it’s been 5 months nothing yet. My father in-law had the same code for his Toyota Sequoia did the same thing code gone.


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## smiley (Jun 12, 2016)

tutemeluzun said:


> I had this code too. First tried cat clean it went away and a month later came back. Changed the o2 sensors came back. So I went ahead and changed the catalytic converter. Couple weeks later came right back. So I found these o2 spacers on eBay it even says code fixer or whatever. Put the spacer in front of the back o2 and it’s been 5 months nothing yet. My father in-law had the same code for his Toyota Sequoia did the same thing code gone.


Do you have a link to what you used?


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## tutemeluzun (May 11, 2019)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Straight...-1-5-CEL-Fix/163181629163?hash=item25fe620eeb

This is the link


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## smiley (Jun 12, 2016)

tutemeluzun said:


> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Straight...-1-5-CEL-Fix/163181629163?hash=item25fe620eeb
> 
> This is the link


Thanks!


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## PD24675 (Aug 1, 2019)

BOB_BEAR said:


> It's been a while since I've posted here. Sadly, it's not for the better
> 
> My 2013 Cruze 1.4 had the check engine light come on. Took it to the delership and said the catalytic converter has gone bad. I have 82k miles, and the dealership says it is NOT covered by my extended care warranty. Said it would cost $1400 to repair. Anyone else had this happen to them?


Yes. I have had this exact problem. I have a 2013 Cruze 1.4 turbo LTZ RS and the cat went out at 35k miles. $1200 job. Under warranty, so no biggie. However, it also went out again at 90k, out of warranty. Because I already had it replaced, they are giving me a break on the cost, but it's still going to run me $575. 

What the hell!!! I'm 55, so this is like my 20th car. I've NEVER had a cat fail in any car I've ever owned. Now I've had TWO go bad in the same car? Under 90k miles??? This is nonsense. I smell a class-action coming their way.

And as others have posted, they are quoting me many weeks before we can get one, so I know it's a system-wide issue.


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## harrhef (Jan 20, 2020)

I have a 2013 Cruze (99,000 miles). I got the P420 code and the check engine light pop up. I had an aftermarket cat put in (local garage) and still had the check engine light pop up. They replaced the new cat free of charge. Ended up getting another check engine light with the same code! Brought it to the dealership I got the car from and they did a software update. Check engine light still came on a month later. Dealership says the aftermarket cat that was installed isn't working properly and will require a new OEM cat ($1,177). Local mechanic says that these cats should work and believes that the cars computer is having problems and that the dealership should fix it. Any suggestion how I can best approach this problem?


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## orsborn (Apr 20, 2020)

I have a 2014 Chevrolet Cruze. I've have taken it to my repair person three times now due to check engine light showing bad catalytic converter. We replaced it the first time, it went approximately 300 miles before the check engine light came on again. Same code bad converter. The mechanic contacted the company he purchased the new converter from and they replaced it. He changed it out. Went about 170 miles this time before the light came on. The mechanic re-wrote the programming for the vehicle. Went about 150 miles light came on again. It is the 1.4 turbo engine. Do you have any ideas or suggestion. Mine had 86K on it when the code came on the first time. I think Chevrolet has a faulty part and/or program.


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## atikovi (Dec 27, 2011)

O2 sensor spacer.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Just a educated guess. Cat's for the Cruze typically don't just fail. They are the result of something else being a problem and fouling the cat. 

On this car I'd be looking at burning oil. Change/inpect plugs, clean throttle body.. See if oil is being pulled through the inter cooler. This can in a certain way all be traced back to the crankcase ventilation system. 

Also make sure the oil is not overfilled. 4.25 quarts for the 1.4L Gen 1, not 5. better to be a little underfilled vs overfilled.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Since it seems no one wants to post all the codes they are getting and the only one I see is the P0420. I would also suggest checking to see if your PCV valve in the intake still exists as this code is one of the symptoms.

*2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues*


A code *P0420* may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 

Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for (unlikely) 
A damaged or failed oxygen / O2 sensor 
Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly 
The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly 
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe 
Failed or underperforming catalytic converter (likely) 
Retarded spark timing 
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings 
Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure 
Cylinder misfire 
Oil contamination

Read more at: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold


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## Milano528 (May 8, 2020)

I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo 128k miles automatic. I also have check engine light with the p0420 code. The other day I was driving on the high way and the traction control/stabilitrak lights came on and also displayed low power engine out output. So I pulled over luckily an exit was close. I read the manual and did what it said. Shut the car off waited over 15 seconds and started it back up. Light was gone. Car is working fine again. Is this normal or maybe because of that code. The highway was clear no weather conditions at all it was a nice day. 

Same thing happened twice yesterday and I did the same thing. Worked both times lights turned off car was fine. Also its not shifting great there’s a drag or delay between 2nd and 3rd gear. I was thinking it probably a spark plug or coils. I’m not great with cars but seems this issues coincide together. I’m gunna try the caticlean to see if that helps remove the code. Or hopefully just an O2 sensor bad


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Milano528 said:


> The other day I was driving on the high way and the traction control/stabilitrak lights came on and also displayed low power engine out output.


TSB 14311
SB-10057574-8899 



Milano528 said:


> Same thing happened twice yesterday and I did the same thing. Worked both times lights turned off car was fine. Also its not shifting great there’s a drag or delay between 2nd and 3rd gear.


*How to: Automatic Transmission Fluid Flush*
*AMSOIL Products for the 2011-2015, 2016 Limited Gen1 Cruze* 

or

Cruze Manual Transmission (M32) Issues
How-To: Change the Manual Transmission Fluid
How-To: Install Clutch Accumulator Bypass Mod
Gen1 Cruze Clutch and Manual Transmission Shifting Upgrades
How-To: Remove Clutch Delay Valve (CDV)
How-To: Replace Clutch Fluid
AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4 Manual Transmission Fluid
AMSOIL Products for the 2011-2015, 2016 Limited Gen1 Cruze 



Milano528 said:


> I was thinking it probably a spark plug or coils. I’m not great with cars but seems this issues coincide together.


Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal. 

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

*Set gap with the black portion of this tool.*








*Measure the gap with feeler gauges.*









* Throw this away.*










Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

*-BKR8EIX-2668* (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
*-BKR7E-4644* (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read _Hesitation Gone!_ for more info on the plugs.



Milano528 said:


> I’m gunna try the caticlean to see if that helps remove the code.


What?


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## Milano528 (May 8, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> TSB 14311
> SB-10057574-8899
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for some of the tips as I’m not really a car guy and haven’t done much mechanic work. But I would like to learn some things. Cataclean for cleaning the cat. I’ve read that has worked for some people and removed their check engine light for the p0420 code.


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## Milano528 (May 8, 2020)

So today I went and got my car scanned at auto zone. A lot of codes came up and suggested I replace the Valve cover gasket. Codes include p0420 p0068 p0121 p0236 p0237 p0299 p0426 p01101 p02227. I checked the other day and there is oil leaking from it. I think most of these codes can be the result of a faulty valve cover gasket and oil leaking. The Pcv valve seems fine though because there is no air blowing out from the whole or a hissing noise. But I’m no expert. Any thoughts?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Milano528 said:


> So today I went and got my car scanned at auto zone. A lot of codes came up and suggested I replace the Valve cover gasket. Codes include p0420 p0068 p0121 p0236 p0237 p0299 p0426 p01101 p02227. I checked the other day and there is oil leaking from it. I think most of these codes can be the result of a faulty valve cover gasket and oil leaking. The Pcv valve seems fine though because there is no air blowing out from the whole or a hissing noise. But I’m no expert. Any thoughts?


The intake manifold check valve is very likely missing, and just replace the whole valve cover/gasket while you're at it. 

Check your boost hoses as well, particularly the one at the throttle body.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Milano528 said:


> So today I went and got my car scanned at auto zone. A lot of codes came up and suggested I replace the Valve cover gasket. Codes include p0420 p0068 p0121 p0236 p0237 p0299 p0426 p01101 p02227. I checked the other day and there is oil leaking from it. I think most of these codes can be the result of a faulty valve cover gasket and oil leaking. The Pcv valve seems fine though because there is no air blowing out from the whole or a hissing noise. But I’m no expert. Any thoughts?


Read the link in post #72


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## Milano528 (May 8, 2020)

jblackburn said:


> The intake manifold check valve is very likely missing, and just replace the whole valve cover/gasket while you're at it.
> 
> Check your boost hoses as well, particularly the one at the throttle body.


I replaced the valve cover and gasket today thinking that was it and it got rid of a few codes p0121 p1101 p0426 codes. I checked the manifold for the orange plastic piece and it was still there. Is that’s what the intake check valve is?

Went and scanned again at autozone and the computer suggested to replace the throttle body. What’s your thoughts on that? It doesn’t mean that’s accurate but it could be I guess. Just bought this car and the guy really screwed me. I hate people sometimes.


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## Milano528 (May 8, 2020)

jblackburn said:


> The intake manifold check valve is very likely missing, and just replace the whole valve cover/gasket while you're at it.
> 
> Check your boost hoses as well, particularly the one at the throttle body.


I also replaced both o2 sensors. Trying to start with the small things first but I think I need to bring to it to get a full diagnostic this week to pin point exactly what’s going on.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I'm not sure what to make of the codes, but you have a bunch of unrelated ones there.

I'd say you have something along the lines of an electrical issue (negative cable or chewed wiring?) or some kinda huge air leak.

In any case, don't throw parts at it. The throttle bodies do very rarely go bad, and the O2 sensors are almost never an issue with these cars.

A once-over with a GM scan tool may pinpoint what's actually going on with this thing.


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## Milano528 (May 8, 2020)

jblackburn said:


> I'm not sure what to make of the codes, but you have a bunch of unrelated ones there.
> 
> I'd say you have something along the lines of an electrical issue (negative cable or chewed wiring?) or some kinda huge air leak.
> 
> ...


Ok I guess I’ll replace the negative battery cable first and see if that’s the issue. Chevy dealership repair shops should have a GM scan tool correct?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Milano528 said:


> Ok I guess I’ll replace the negative battery cable first and see if that’s the issue. Chevy dealership repair shops should have a GM scan tool correct?


Yes.


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## Cruze70 (Aug 28, 2014)

probably too late at this point, but I thought they had to replace it for free under 85,000 miles due to US regulations.


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## Mila (Jan 16, 2021)

BOB_BEAR said:


> It's been a while since I've posted here. Sadly, it's not for the better
> 
> My 2013 Cruze 1.4 had the check engine light come on. Took it to the delership and said the catalytic converter has gone bad. I have 82k miles, and the dealership says it is NOT covered by my extended care warranty. Said it would cost $1400 to repair. Anyone else had this happen to them?


Me currently


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruze70 said:


> probably too late at this point, but I thought they had to replace it for free under 85,000 miles due to US regulations.


As posted above: 
TSB 14311
SB-10057574-8899 



Mila said:


> Me currently


Welcome Aboard!

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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