# Timing Belt replacement



## BradHerr (Sep 29, 2013)

I replaced the timing belt and water pump on my 14 Diesel this past weekend. I made a video of the process and I’m in the process of extracting screenshots to try and create a write-up of the steps. I was at 123K miles and the belt was beginning to have some significant cracks between the teeth. There were no special tools needed to lock the cam and just a few basic hand tools were required to gain access to everything. I should have some free time this week to work on a How-To post and hopefully will have something to share after Christmas if anyone is interested. 

The most peculiar thing about replacing the belt was that my “Timing Belt” message went out on its own after replacing the belt. The battery was not disconnected nor did I try to reset the message via the turn signal stalk or by pulling fuses. I cannot explain why the message extinguished. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated. My only guess is that the cam timing would have change slightly as the belt stretched and by replacing the belt, the cam timing returned to its “normal” phasing.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Been wonderin’ where u been lately @BradHerr, worth the wait for sure. Looking forward to your updated tutorial. A lot of Gen 1 CTDs will be needing this service soon.

Any more 1,000 mile tanks lately? :xmas:


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## BradHerr (Sep 29, 2013)

Rivergoer said:


> Been wonderin’ where u been lately @*BradHerr*, worth the wait for sure. Looking forward to your updated tutorial. A lot of Gen 1 CTDs will be needing this service soon.
> 
> Any more 1,000 mile tanks lately? :xmas:


 I have been traveling for work and the mobile app quit cooperating with my iPhone so I haven’t been able to log in. While on the road I had the Cruze with me but it was only a 7 mile commute to work versus my normal 98 mile trip. The short trips killed my mileage (and brakes!), so no more 1000 mile tanks, I’m still sitting on three.


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## oilburner (Jun 13, 2013)

normally if correlation between cam an crank sensors is more than plus or minus 2 degrees the ecm detects that, an will put up a red flag. I though the message was a mileage interval thing. 
how long has the message been there??


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

Spent a good amount of time researching timing belt change the past few days. Saw a post on a diesel truck site where someone posted the book method for the cruze, was very complicated and seemed to be taking a lot more things apart than necessary to accommodate locks. Only thing useful was torque specs. There was a video on YouTube that showed how to install and tension the belt properly, very helpful. Another video showed timing marks on the belt to help line things up. I was surprised no one made a write up yet. Would be great if you took the time to compile all the steps/tools/parts ! Plenty of missing details like how to replace the water pump / draining coolant etc other helpful tips to make the process easy to follow along.


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## BradHerr (Sep 29, 2013)

LulzT1 said:


> Spent a good amount of time researching timing belt change the past few days. Saw a post on a diesel truck site where someone posted the book method for the cruze, was very complicated and seemed to be taking a lot more things apart than necessary to accommodate locks. Only thing useful was torque specs. There was a video on YouTube that showed how to install and tension the belt properly, very helpful. Another video showed timing marks on the belt to help line things up. I was surprised no one made a write up yet. Would be great if you took the time to compile all the steps/tools/parts ! Plenty of missing details like how to replace the water pump / draining coolant etc other helpful tips to make the process easy to follow along.


I agree that there isn’t much out there about replacing the belt. There is a tool kit that has all of the fixtures needed to put the engine back in to time. As long as the belt hasn’t broken(which would require the head to be removed to fix the valves and maybe pistons) there is no need to use any special tools to time everything. The tools lock the crankshaft into the correct position as well as the two cams. 

The write up is in the works. I feel the video I put on youtube covered the disassembly and installation of the belt and water pump in a fairly detailed manner. I didn’t record any of the reassembly of the motor mount or timing covers, however.

The tool list was surprising small:

Floor Jack and Jack Stand
4-way lug wrench
⅜” Ratchet 
12,13,15, and 19 mm ⅜” deep well sockets
T30 and T50 ⅜” drive sockets
⅜” drive 6 mm hex bit
12” ⅜” drive extension (optional)
¼” ratchet
T20 ¼” drive socket
Flat blade screwdriver
13 and 15 mm combination wrenches
Small Wire cutters


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## BradHerr (Sep 29, 2013)

oilburner said:


> normally if correlation between cam an crank sensors is more than plus or minus 2 degrees the ecm detects that, an will put up a red flag. I though the message was a mileage interval thing.
> how long has the message been there??


 That’s what I thought too. No one else has mentioned that it was a “smart” warning that actually meant anything. The consensus was that it was a “dumb/idiot” message that appeared at a set interval. I did not note the exact mileage that the message appeared. I’m not sure anyone else has experienced the self-extinguishing of the message.


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## oilburner (Jun 13, 2013)

BradHerr said:


> That’s what I thought too. No one else has mentioned that it was a “smart” warning that actually meant anything. The consensus was that it was a “dumb/idiot” message that appeared at a set interval. I did not note the exact mileage that the message appeared. I’m not sure anyone else has experienced the self-extinguishing of the message.


when the belt starts to crack beside the cogs your on borrowed time ,good thing you did it when you did!


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

I asked a garage by me and I think they wanted $450.
So I am interested. Thanks


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

following

thx


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

I'm only at 48K and have a ways to go but am looking forward to doing the job myself as well. Your guide will make it a breeze. Thanks a bunch.


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## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

I just watched your video, nice video. Looks to be really easy replacement.


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## BradHerr (Sep 29, 2013)

NHRA said:


> I just watched your video, nice video. Looks to be really easy replacement.


Thank you. It was easier to replace the belt than it was to put the video together.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

Hey Brad, thanks for the work. So I just hit the magical 97K miles in mine and am getting ready to buy the standard parts to be replaced during this evolution. Looking for input as to what's recommended. Here's my current list of planned parts:

1) 55562864 Serpentine Tensioner
2) 55578485 Serpentine Belt
3) 55580776 Timing Belt
4) 55488983 Water Pump
5) 55562865 Idler Pulley (Left)
6) 55581830 Idler Pulley (Right)
Total for parts: $220. from GMPartsNow.com

Plus Coolant.
Will have work done at my favorite GM dealer in Phoenix.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks.


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## TX CTD (Oct 24, 2014)

ID Parts has a complete kit like you would find for a VW TDI. It's a little speedy, but just about everything behind the cover would be new including the bolts.


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

TX CTD said:


> ID Parts has a complete kit like you would find for a VW TDI. It's a little speedy, but just about everything behind the cover would be new including the bolts.


Thanks TX CTD. I was checking that out before, but I'm keeping all parts OEM.


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## Lugnut (May 4, 2017)

I am glad you were successful at replacing your timing belt. Makes sure to note the mileage when you replaced the timing belt. You may get a premature message indicating you need to replace the timing belt. The reason why GM wants the crank and cam pinned to the engine during installation is so everything is set back to factory specs. The sprocket on the cam is NOT pinned. Once you lock the crank and cam, you install the timing belt, loosen the cam sprocket, set the tensioner, and then tighten the cam sprocket. This ensure the belt is set exactly to zero and all of the logic in the ECM will function correctly. Keep in mind all of the parts have tolerances. This method is the only true way to ensure everything is setup exactly the way GM intended it to be. I doubt you will have any trouble other than a premature change timing belt message. Just want folks reading this to know why you area supposed to pin the crank and cam. If you don't you could possible run into phantom problems in the future. I hope that you don't think I am being disrespectful, because that is not my intention. I want people to make informed decisions, that all.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Funny, I watched Brad's video a couple weeks ago and didn't realize it was the same guy.

Seems pretty easy. Still undecided if I will take it in or not.


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## BradHerr (Sep 29, 2013)

Lugnut said:


> I am glad you were successful at replacing your timing belt. Makes sure to note the mileage when you replaced the timing belt. You may get a premature message indicating you need to replace the timing belt. The reason why GM wants the crank and cam pinned to the engine during installation is so everything is set back to factory specs. The sprocket on the cam is NOT pinned. Once you lock the crank and cam, you install the timing belt, loosen the cam sprocket, set the tensioner, and then tighten the cam sprocket. This ensure the belt is set exactly to zero and all of the logic in the ECM will function correctly. Keep in mind all of the parts have tolerances. This method is the only true way to ensure everything is setup exactly the way GM intended it to be. I doubt you will have any trouble other than a premature change timing belt message. Just want folks reading this to know why you area supposed to pin the crank and cam. If you don't you could possible run into phantom problems in the future. I hope that you don't think I am being disrespectful, because that is not my intention. I want people to make informed decisions, that all.


That makes sense to set the cam sprocket back in alignment with the cam after replacing the belt. Hopefully, the tolerances in the new belt won’t cause any issues.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

I know everyone says you don't need special tools for the timing belt change... but I'm not willing to take the risk of the cam moving and bending valves. Has anyone purchased a kit for timing belt replacement that worked? The OEM specified tools are crazy expensive!


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

Maybe I'm just blind.....but where's the link to the video that you all are talking about?


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## TX CTD (Oct 24, 2014)

If you search YouTube you can’t miss it, there’s only 2 or 3 to choose from.


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

thebac said:


> Maybe I'm just blind.....but where's the link to the video that you all are talking about?


https://youtu.be/gQnj3QNsQIM

Just watched it yesterday, very well presented and explained. With this video, anyone with some technical skill can tackle the job IMO. Nice work, Brad!


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## sailurman (Sep 29, 2016)

LulzT1 said:


> https://youtu.be/gQnj3QNsQIM
> 
> Just watched it yesterday, very well presented and explained. With this video, anyone with some technical skill can tackle the job IMO. Nice work, Brad!


Next time....at 200K :goodjob::goodjob::goodjob:


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

LulzT1 said:


> https://youtu.be/gQnj3QNsQIM
> 
> Just watched it yesterday, very well presented and explained. With this video, anyone with some technical skill can tackle the job IMO. Nice work, Brad!


****, that is one thorough explanation of the job. Thanks for the link, and thanks to Brad for taking the time to make the video.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

I just ordered the timing belt tools for mine. I'm in USA and ordered them from UK FOR 45 bucks. I'll let everyone know if they are the correct tools when they come in and I replace mine. These are for an opel which to my understanding is the same engine.I just don't have enough courage to hope my cam will stay still! 45 bucks is better than pulling the head and replacing valves IMO.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

Just wanted to let everyone know that these tools worked perfectly on my USA ctd


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

Here's a couple pics of my belt at 123k 50%highway driving


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

electrozap_29 said:


> Here's a couple pics of my belt at 123k 50%highway driving


From that one sample the belt still looks good.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Tomko said:


> From that one sample the belt still looks good.


I was going to see the same thing. I can't tell if there is some cracking or not between the ribs, or if that's just the belt coloration.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Wow I see quite the opposite, cracking at the base of each rib. 

Good thing it was changed.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

There was cracks at the bases of each rib. Not bad but glad it's done now!


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Excellent video @*BradHerr* thank you sir.

After reaching 100K yesterday, I started getting the DIC Timing Belt Interval warning message at every engine start. 

Since my timing belt was replaced at 65K when the water pump failed, I looked to this thread to figure out how to reset the DIC warning, as I won’t be replacing mine again until 165K. 

Adding link here as cross-reference on DIC RESET.


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## Merchlewitz (Aug 3, 2016)

I just rolled over 100k it's winter here now in Minnesota.. I am sitting at just over 100,500 miles, contemplating about buying the kit and tools from IDPARTS? or should I buy all parts individually? Also do I need the specific tools to do this job? I seen brad didn't use any special tools but I don't want to take any risks at all. Any info appreciated. Parts are 400, tools 100+ totalling like $550 is it worth that from IDPARTS?


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Merchlewitz said:


> I just rolled over 100k it's winter here now in Minnesota.. I am sitting at just over 100,500 miles, contemplating about buying the kit and tools from IDPARTS? or should I buy all parts individually? Also do I need the specific tools to do this job? I seen brad didn't use any special tools but I don't want to take any risks at all. Any info appreciated. Parts are 400, tools 100+ totalling like $550 is it worth that from IDPARTS?


im not buying the timing belt tools, cuz you have to remove them to change the belt anyways

mark the location of the gears as you swap belts, if they move at all, move em back

havent seen anybody replace the crankshaft seal, but also havent seen any crank seal leaks...so theres that....but id hate to have to replace that seal before next timing belt and take it all apart again

im buying the idpart kit, its just easier to one click, and i would replace those parts, the serp belt, tensioner and idler while i have it apart versus wait for them to fail and re do it all...thats what im comfortable with....versus get another 10-60 or ??? thousand more miles on those parts and replace them then and do that labor again...personal preference


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I think I remember reading a suggestion from someone - not sure if it is what they did on their CTD, or on another timing-belted vehicle - was to cut the current timing belt in half, leaving half on there, thus retaining all the proper gear alignment/timing, then slip the new belt onto the gears and cut the remaining old timing belt so that you can push the new belt the remainder of the way. 

The gears shouldn't really move - but if they're marked, you'll know where to put them back if they do. I know the intake cams on my buddy's Subaru (VVT on those - EJ207 heads) absolutely *loved* to spin back the second you exhaled too hard when lining everything up to put the timing belt on...made it an absolute pain in the ass - finally just bought the tool that locked the intake and exhaust gears together during belt installation and it took 5 minutes instead of 2 hours.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

MP81 said:


> I think I remember reading a suggestion from someone - not sure if it is what they did on their CTD, or on another timing-belted vehicle - was to cut the current timing belt in half, leaving half on there, thus retaining all the proper gear alignment/timing, then slip the new belt onto the gears and cut the remaining old timing belt so that you can push the new belt the remainder of the way.
> 
> The gears shouldn't really move - but if they're marked, you'll know where to put them back if they do. I know the intake cams on my buddy's Subaru (VVT on those - EJ207 heads) absolutely *loved* to spin back the second you exhaled too hard when lining everything up to put the timing belt on...made it an absolute pain in the ass - finally just bought the tool that locked the intake and exhaust gears together during belt installation and it took 5 minutes instead of 2 hours.


i mentioned the cut the old belt to hold everything


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

boraz said:


> i mentioned the cut the old belt to hold everything


Oh, well then I was right it was someone on here! Haha.

I'm still tempted to let the dealer do it for ours, so it's their ass if something breaks. But I don't know. 

Obviously I am more than fully able to do it myself, but time becomes an issue...and laziness, too.


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

Anybody have the torque spec for the water pump bolts? Figured I'll replace it while I am in there and I'd like to avoid leaks from undertightened / overtightened gasket.

Thanks!


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

LulzT1 said:


> Anybody have the torque spec for the water pump bolts? Figured I'll replace it while I am in there and I'd like to avoid leaks from undertightened / overtightened gasket.
> 
> Thanks!


19 lbft


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

So I have the new wp/tensioner/idler installed and I am trying to slip the new belt in. For some reason the marks on the belt are not lining up with the marks on the sprockets. I did make a mark on each sprocket before removal and I didn't really touch any, so I'm not sure whats going on here... I noticed the cam gear likes to rotate CCW and the fuel pump can be moved easily but I didn't really move them.

Currently the crank is at 9 o'clock, fuel pump near 8 o'clock, and cam gear slightly above 3 o'clock. Do I rotate the engine CW to match the belt up with the marks? Rotate the individual sprockets and match them up one at a time? Help!


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Fuel pump probably wants to be closer to 9.
Cam closer to 2.
Additionally the lock for the cam allows you to loosen the cam sprocket bolt and and be able to microadjust sprocket position to get belt on and tension belt.

I feel doing the job without the holding tools (if you are) makes it needlessly fiddly and more difficult.

Mark where the pulleys line up with the engine once you get it set. Then when you rotate it 720 to check timing it's much easier than checking the belt marks in my opinion


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## LulzT1 (Aug 24, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> Fuel pump probably wants to be closer to 9.
> Cam closer to 2.
> Additionally the lock for the cam allows you to loosen the cam sprocket bolt and and be able to microadjust sprocket position to get belt on and tension belt.
> 
> ...


I concur, it was needlessly fiddly and next time I will. A video or some pictures probably would have convinced me to get the tools from the start. Also, how would I go about checking timing? I was relying on the marks on the belt, but then I realized the marks wouldn't line up again once rotated, so I just made sure I didn't have any obvious interference / clearance issues and crossed my fingers.

Took me longer than I thought after I ran into that issue, I was hesitant to reassemble without thinking it through. I ended up fudging the fuel pump sprocket to line everything up because I didn't want to spin the cam and crank out of sync with each other. Car started without hesitation and the "change timing belt" reminder no longer appears. Warmed it up and added coolant, drove around the block and checked the level, everything seems ok. Letting it cool down so I can recheck the reservoir level and take it for another ride.

My car currently has 110k and the belt looked similar to what has been posted with cracking along the base of the ribs / teeth.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Few more resources from Vauxhall sites. They show how to use the locking tool if you buy one.

https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/belt-replacement-guide-vauxhall-insignia/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxZumw-S_FM


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

For the guys that hit 200k miles, does the message come back up again to replace the belt?


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## TurboDieselCruze2014 (Jan 23, 2020)

TheRealHip said:


> I asked a garage by me and I think they wanted $450.
> So I am interested. Thanks


Was that $450 parts & labor?


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

Yes it was. At least that's what they told me. I passed and bought the parts myself. Will be doing this at Thanksgiving when I am off.


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## mkohan (Dec 19, 2015)

$450 is really a great price. I just was quoted $660 for belt and water pump. To add the tension and flush the cooling system would be another $200. There goes summer vacation LOL.


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## swedgemon (Jan 16, 2017)

mkohan said:


> $450 is really a great price. I just was quoted $660 for belt and water pump. To add the tension and flush the cooling system would be another $200. There goes summer vacation LOL.


I just finished replacing the timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt and the various bolts on my 2014 diesel Cruze. The costs were a few dollars for coolant, just over $300 for parts and about $40 for the belt change tool kit. The engine has 100,290 miles on it and the belt looked like it would go another maybe 30-40k miles, easily (no cracks in the roots of the teeth). The job took longer than I expected (about 8 hours) but at 75 years old, it takes me longer to get up off the floor than when I was a Ranger.
One tip I picked up from one of the utube videos was to use a 6" piece of 2 X 2, with about 1/4" shaved off of one end, between the engine crankcase and the frame member instead of a floor jack under the engine when removing the engine mount. I will admit to having done 3 timing belt changes on several VW Jettas I have previously owned.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

swedgemon said:


> The job took longer than I expected (about 8 hours) but at 75 years old, it takes me longer to get up off the floor than when I was a Ranger.


   

Great post. 

I'm 58, and in decent shape, but struggle to get up. Fingers crossed I can write about doing timing belts when I'm 75. Kudos to you !

Doug

.


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## swedgemon (Jan 16, 2017)

plano-doug said:


> Great post.
> 
> I'm 58, and in decent shape, but struggle to get up. Fingers crossed I can write about doing timing belts when I'm 75. Kudos to you !
> 
> ...


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

BDCCruze said:


> For the guys that hit 200k miles, does the message come back up again to replace the belt?


Yes it does come up around 200k


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

electrozap_29 said:


> Yes it does come up around 200k


Cool. When you hit the 100k message did you clear it by pulling the cluster fuse or with a scan tool? I'm wondering if that may impact the message in the future.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

If you unhook the battery during the repair it clears it. The 2nd time mine came on I pulled the fuse. Note that the 1st time I didnt replace the timing belt until 125k and the message still came on right around 200k. I'm not changing the timing belt again until 250k


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

electrozap_29 said:


> If you unhook the battery during the repair it clears it. The 2nd time mine came on I pulled the fuse. Note that the 1st time I didnt replace the timing belt until 125k and the message still came on right around 200k. I'm not changing the timing belt again until 250k


Same here, I did mind around 125k and I probably could have probably gone another 50k. The belt looked brand new, but the tensioner showed it was obviously stretched. Plus, I was getting a little bit of weeping from the water pump though so I suppose it was time before that went.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

BDCCruze said:


> Same here, I did mind around 125k and I probably could have probably gone another 50k. The belt looked brand new, but the tensioner showed it was obviously stretched. Plus, I was getting a little bit of weeping from the water pump though so I suppose it was time before that went.


My belt had some decent cracks in it at 125k it wasnt about to break by any means, but it was ready to be changed


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

Just did the timing belt, idler, tensioner, water pump, and serpentine belt. Took me 6 hours. Not enough hands to hold the timing belt in place. Really tight to get the serpentine belt on too. Glad it's done.


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## Tkenall (Aug 23, 2020)

Hey new to the site here. Lots of information at hands on here which is awesome. I have a 2014 Cruze diesel that I’m doin a timing belt change on currently. I did exactly like others have done just lined up marks on belts with marks on gears. When I put on new belt the fuel pump gear and cam gear would jump counterclockwise 1 tooth. I moved em back n the same thing happened a few times. The last time it happens I went to turn cam gear clockwise one tooth so it was back on my mark i turned too much it went like maybe 10 teeth. I moved it back counter clockwise where it was suppose to be. I then advanced (clockwise) the fuel pump and cam gear one tooth, slipped the new belt on the fuel pump and cam gear came back counter clockwise one tooth right where they were suppose to be. I set the tension on new belt and hand cranked the engine. Everything felt fine til after 2-3 rotations. Almost feels like something is binding up not sure if it’s compression or what? It gets to a point where it’s harder to turn then I get past that point and it smooths out again for half a turn. Did I screw something up moving that cam gear? I’m not sure what to do at this point. Would I know for sure if I’m hitting a valve when hand turning engine over? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


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## #peterbilt (Oct 4, 2020)

i kinda messed up and didn't know anything about replcing timing belt around 100k, and my water pump locked up around 130k, ive been trying to get it back running I pulled everything and inspected valves and everything only I found damaged was rockers, replaced rockers and Im in the process of putting it back together but when I line up the marks on all the pulleys I can turn the engine over until the #1 cylinder gets to tdc and it stops dead and will not turn anymore there a certain way to reset timing after cams and everything has been took apart


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## Tluke1994 (Feb 3, 2021)

BradHerr said:


> I replaced the timing belt and water pump on my 14 Diesel this past weekend. I made a video of the process and I’m in the process of extracting screenshots to try and create a write-up of the steps. I was at 123K miles and the belt was beginning to have some significant cracks between the teeth. There were no special tools needed to lock the cam and just a few basic hand tools were required to gain access to everything. I should have some free time this week to work on a How-To post and hopefully will have something to share after Christmas if anyone is interested.
> 
> The most peculiar thing about replacing the belt was that my “Timing Belt” message went out on its own after replacing the belt. The battery was not disconnected nor did I try to reset the message via the turn signal stalk or by pulling fuses. I cannot explain why the message extinguished. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated. My only guess is that the cam timing would have change slightly as the belt stretched and by replacing the belt, the cam timing returned to its “normal” phasing.


Thanks for making that video btw..plan to do mine this weekend based on your instruction. Really appreciate taking your time doing this


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## KrisW (May 30, 2020)

I followed Brad's video about 4 months ago and the job went just fine. I bought the complete kit from ID parts and the tools to hold everything. Following the video, I did not even open the tool kit, but I have it in case I ever need it. The only thing I did different was when putting the new belt on. I couldn't get everything to line up because the new belt was so tight (which is good.) I put the new belt on the crank and then the cam drive, then used some 1/4" vacuum tubing. I cut about a 6" piece, bent it in a "U" shape, then shoved that in on top of the cam drive with the new belt on, between the timing cover and the cam drive/belt. This "locked" the cam in place and allowed me to only fiddle with the fuel pump for the final line up of the marks. Once it was on, I then removed the vacuum tubing and set tension, followed the rest of the video. 

I have driven it over 10,000 miles since I changed it and it runs as good as it ever did.

Thanks for this thread! And the video!


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## everett33 (Aug 1, 2018)

KrisW What brand timing belt did you go with?


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I think the hardest part of the job was getting the belt equal on both sides while holding it on the crank. I ended up stuffing a bunch of paper or something under the belt to hold the teeth on the crank long enough to pull on it both ways (while having it locked in place using the tool). Then when I had it equal, getting it to go over the pully once the other pully was in place. I didn't want to bend the shaft on either pump or cam.


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## ronkl (Feb 13, 2021)

BDCCruze said:


> I think the hardest part of the job was getting the belt equal on both sides while holding it on the crank. I ended up stuffing a bunch of paper or something under the belt to hold the teeth on the crank long enough to pull on it both ways (while having it locked in place using the tool). Then when I had it equal, getting it to go over the pully once the other pully was in place. I didn't want to bend the shaft on either pump or cam.


Hey can anyone share the link to the video you are talking about that Brad made? Also I have not yet changed my belt just rounding up all the parts. Two important things to remember, 1. use the cam lock tool or some how lock your cam, if not it is spring loaded by the valve springs and can jump rapidly and can damage the engine on a interference engine. The tool for the diesel is only 28 dollars on amazon well worth it. 2. the important thing is crank and cam alignment marks, that's your timing, the fuel pump is not in time with any thing, I think why you find the three marks on the belt is the belt is possibly used in other applications, like the gas engine, I'm just guessing but the fuel pump inconsequential. Hope this gives some better understanding. BTW not saying to not use the fuel pump marks, just giving you understanding. Also the engine turns clockwise when looking at it from the front. If you have trouble getting the belt marks on the cam once on the crank just move the crank with the crank gear bolt back a tooth, no more than that, make sure your cam stays locked get the belt on the marks and then move your crank back to its mark on gear and housing. In the end make sure the lines on the belt match the notches on crank, cam, and fuel pump.


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## ronkl (Feb 13, 2021)

#peterbilt said:


> i kinda messed up and didn't know anything about replcing timing belt around 100k, and my water pump locked up around 130k, ive been trying to get it back running I pulled everything and inspected valves and everything only I found damaged was rockers, replaced rockers and Im in the process of putting it back together but when I line up the marks on all the pulleys I can turn the engine over until the #1 cylinder gets to tdc and it stops dead and will not turn anymore there a certain way to reset timing after cams and everything has been took apart


Did you get this figured out?


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

ronkl said:


> Hey can anyone share the link to the video you are talking about that Brad made? Also I have not yet changed my belt just rounding up all the parts. Two important things to remember, 1. use the cam lock tool or some how lock your cam, if not it is spring loaded by the valve springs and can jump rapidly and can damage the engine on a interference engine. The tool for the diesel is only 28 dollars on amazon well worth it. 2. the important thing is crank and cam alignment marks, that's your timing, the fuel pump is not in time with any thing, I think why you find the three marks on the belt is the belt is possibly used in other applications, like the gas engine, I'm just guessing but the fuel pump inconsequential. Hope this gives some better understanding. BTW not saying to not use the fuel pump marks, just giving you understanding. Also the engine turns clockwise when looking at it from the front. If you have trouble getting the belt marks on the cam once on the crank just move the crank with the crank gear bolt back a tooth, no more than that, make sure your cam stays locked get the belt on the marks and then move your crank back to its mark on gear and housing. In the end make sure the lines on the belt match the notches on crank, cam, and fuel pump.


Yeah, I would not have done this belt without the locking tool. I felt way more comfortable tuging and moving stuff around knowing both crank and cam where locked in place.

Here's a link to Brad's video


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## Wayne 89 (Mar 17, 2021)

BradHerr said:


> I replaced the timing belt and water pump on my 14 Diesel this past weekend. I made a video of the process and I’m in the process of extracting screenshots to try and create a write-up of the steps. I was at 123K miles and the belt was beginning to have some significant cracks between the teeth. There were no special tools needed to lock the cam and just a few basic hand tools were required to gain access to everything. I should have some free time this week to work on a How-To post and hopefully will have something to share after Christmas if anyone is interested.
> 
> The most peculiar thing about replacing the belt was that my “Timing Belt” message went out on its own after replacing the belt. The battery was not disconnected nor did I try to reset the message via the turn signal stalk or by pulling fuses. I cannot explain why the message extinguished. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated. My only guess is that the cam timing would have change slightly as the belt stretched and by replacing the belt, the cam timing returned to its “normal” phasing.


Did you have the special tool


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## Wayne 89 (Mar 17, 2021)

Do anybody know if the 2.0 liter diesel is a free spinning engine


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## Wayne 89 (Mar 17, 2021)

Have anybody ever had a timing belt break,if so did it bend the valves?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Wayne 89 said:


> Do anybody know if the 2.0 liter diesel is a free spinning engine


No, it's definitely an interference engine.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

BradHerr said:


> I replaced the timing belt and water pump on my 14 Diesel this past weekend. I made a video of the process and I’m in the process of extracting screenshots to try and create a write-up of the steps. I was at 123K miles and the belt was beginning to have some significant cracks between the teeth. There were no special tools needed to lock the cam and just a few basic hand tools were required to gain access to everything. I should have some free time this week to work on a How-To post and hopefully will have something to share after Christmas if anyone is interested.
> 
> The most peculiar thing about replacing the belt was that my “Timing Belt” message went out on its own after replacing the belt. The battery was not disconnected nor did I try to reset the message via the turn signal stalk or by pulling fuses. I cannot explain why the message extinguished. If anyone has any insight it would be appreciated. My only guess is that the cam timing would have change slightly as the belt stretched and by replacing the belt, the cam timing returned to its “normal” phasing.


Anyone have a a number for the OEM factory diesel timing belt, pulley and water pump kit?? (2015 2.0 CTD) . Best source?? Got quoted $900 for *labour *to do the belt, pulleys and water pump + Cost of Parts (which they said was $500.)

Did the Part Number for the timing belt change from this:
*55578485 

Or this:
55580776 *


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## ronkl (Feb 13, 2021)

DslGate said:


> Anyone have a a number for the OEM factory diesel timing belt, pulley and water pump kit?? (2015 2.0 CTD) . Best source?? Got quoted $900 for *labour *to do the belt, pulleys and water pump + Cost of Parts (which they said was $500.)
> 
> Did the Part Number for the timing belt change from this:
> *55578485
> ...


Discount OEM GM Parts and Accessories | GM Wholesale Direct This is one of 3 or 4 sites with similar OEM GM parts, at reasonable price, you can find them with a search, I do recommend using GM parts if you can, they are mostly better built parts.


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## ronkl (Feb 13, 2021)

DslGate said:


> Anyone have a a number for the OEM factory diesel timing belt, pulley and water pump kit?? (2015 2.0 CTD) . Best source?? Got quoted $900 for *labour *to do the belt, pulleys and water pump + Cost of Parts (which they said was $500.)
> 
> Did the Part Number for the timing belt change from this:
> *55578485
> ...


BTW, you will pay all of 500 that's if you use GM parts, if you have a bad engine mount its about 70 in addition. look it over close it is important all engine mounts are very important. I think you could find a mechanic to do the labor for 6-7 hundred 9 is a bit steep.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

DslGate said:


> Anyone have a a number for the OEM factory diesel timing belt, pulley and water pump kit?? (2015 2.0 CTD) . Best source?? Got quoted $900 for *labour *to do the belt, pulleys and water pump + Cost of Parts (which they said was $500.)
> 
> Did the Part Number for the timing belt change from this:
> *55578485
> ...


first number is your serp belt...runs the alternator

2nd number is the timing belt

you have to remove the serp belt to get at the timing belt

minus whale replace the serp belt at the same time.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

DslGate said:


> Anyone have a a number for the OEM factory diesel timing belt, pulley and water pump kit?? (2015 2.0 CTD) . Best source?? Got quoted $900 for *labour *to do the belt, pulleys and water pump + Cost of Parts (which they said was $500.)
> 
> Did the Part Number for the timing belt change from this:
> *55578485
> ...


sposed to replace the coolant at this time as well


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## Diesel4Ever (May 30, 2018)

You should replace everything, especially the tensioner and all idler pulleys. I got everything but the OEM water pump and engine mount bolts from Rockauto.com. OE pump was from Amazon.com. Bolts from dealer.


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## Diesel4Ever (May 30, 2018)

Diesel4Ever said:


> You should replace everything, especially the tensioner and all idler pulleys. I got everything but the OEM water pump and engine mount bolts from Rockauto.com. OE pump was from Amazon.com. Bolts from dealer.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Part Number​Part Name​Price​Quantity​Total​55488983​Water Pump Assembly​$57.57​1​$57.57​55580981​Tensioner​$76.42​1​$76.42​55187100​Idler Pulley​$35.15​1​$35.15​55580776​Timing Belt​$44.37​1​$44.37​

Part numbers I used.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

Thanks guys!!! I can see the total parts on AC Delco on Amazon is less than $200 versus the $500 + the dealer wants just for parts. . They say its 4 hours book time to do the timing belt and the water pump. Of course that's union labour rates.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

DslGate said:


> Thanks guys!!! I can see the total parts on AC Delco on Amazon is less than $200 versus the $500 + the dealer wants just for parts. . They say its 4 hours book time to do the timing belt and the water pump. Of course that's union labour rates.


Keep in mind there are 3 grades of AC Delco Parts. I'm not sure how much better the OEM grade is over Professional/Gold but I do know the Advantage/Silver grade is low end. Just be aware the dealer is probably using all OEM grade when comparing cost to what you may be finding.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

BDCCruze said:


> Keep in mind there are 3 grades of AC Delco Parts. The ones I have were Professional/Gold grade and I believe the belt was OEM grade. I'm not sure how much better the OEM grade is over Professional/Gold but I do know the Advantage/Silver grade is low end.
> 
> Just be aware the dealer is probably using all OEM grade when comparing cost.


Who carries the Professional Gold grade? I'd assume the dealer would??


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

DslGate said:


> Who carries the Professional Gold grade? I'd assume the dealer would??


Pro/Gold are online, but it's possible the dealer may carry them.

I edited my original post because I checked and what I bought were OEM grade. My bad.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

DslGate said:


> Thanks guys!!! I can see the total parts on AC Delco on Amazon is less than $200 versus the $500 + the dealer wants just for parts. . They say its 4 hours book time to do the timing belt and the water pump. Of course that's union labour rates.


that beautiful dealership building gotta be paid for somehow

4hrs is totally fair

also beware there are lots of counterfeit auto parts online

dont just buy them anywhere, could be a real amazon store or a bogus one.


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## DslGate (Jun 29, 2016)

boraz said:


> that beautiful dealership building gotta be paid for somehow
> 
> *4hrs is totally fair*
> 
> ...


I thought the book time fair and didn't question that. BUT $500 + for parts when OEM are available for about $200 all inclusive is a bit of a gaff. The extra 5 minutes labour for the water pump is worth it, BUT not if water pump is $200 just for part.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

DslGate said:


> I thought the book time fair and didn't question that. BUT $500 + for parts when OEM are available for about $200 all inclusive is a bit of a gaff. The extra 5 minutes labour for the water pump is worth it, BUT not if water pump is $200 just for part.


theres no reason to have the dealer do the work

any independant mechanic can do it.

im not a mechanic, did just fine with mine.


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## electrozap_29 (Mar 9, 2017)

DslGate said:


> I thought the book time fair and didn't question that. BUT $500 + for parts when OEM are available for about $200 all inclusive is a bit of a gaff. The extra 5 minutes labour for the water pump is worth it, BUT not if water pump is $200 just for part.


My OEM water pump was about $85 from the dealer


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Chevrolet dealer did my 2014 diesel TB, WP, Pulley and Tensioner recently (2nd time). Total parts and labor came to $897 including taxes, shop supplies, fees. Good for another 100K.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Rivergoer said:


> Chevrolet dealer did my 2014 diesel TB, WP, Pulley and Tensioner recently (2nd time). Total parts and labor came to $897 including taxes, shop supplies, fees. Good for another 100K.
> 
> View attachment 293251


weird that the dealer didnt change out the tty bolts


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

My 2014 is getting ready to go over 100k. Wife took it to Florida and when she gets back it should be at 100k or a little over. Went to the dealer here and they quoted me $475 for parts and $680 for labor. Looks like I will be doing this myself. Question, are all the bolts needing to be replaced? If so what are the part numbers for them? I got the part numbers from the dealer for the TB, SB, WP, Tensioner, and both idler pulleys.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Rivergoer said:


> Chevrolet dealer did my 2014 diesel TB, WP, Pulley and Tensioner recently (2nd time). Total parts and labor came to $897 including taxes, shop supplies, fees. Good for another 100K.


That is a fantastic price.



BlueTopaz said:


> My 2014 is getting ready to go over 100k. Wife took it to Florida and when she gets back it should be at 100k or a little over. Went to the dealer here and they quoted me $475 for parts and $680 for labor. Looks like I will be doing this myself. Question, are all the bolts needing to be replaced? If so what are the part numbers for them? I got the part numbers from the dealer for the TB, SB, WP, Tensioner, and both idler pulleys.


I didn't replace any, but if I could do it again I would have bought the 3 bolts for the engine mount (body side). I believe they are torque to yield - the threads on mine were all screwed up when I took them out. Took me a while to clean everything up to put them back in.


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

I just did my timing belt. A friend helped me and we had it done in under 3 hrs. I replaced everything that I could while I was in there. I figured the labor I saved I could spend on new parts. I got everything from the dealer at cost. A friend of mine is the parts manager at a chevy dealership. 

My change timing belt message didn't go away. I gave it a few times of driving and miles and it stayed on so I had to pull the cluster fuse number 22. That cleared it.

I also did a double drain and fill on the transmission while I was under there. I had it up on my Quickjack. Man those things are great. I was going to do the oil pump seal but looking at all that needed to be removed to get the pan off. I think I will wait for a much cooler eastern NC day to where I can take my time.


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## ehjorten (Jan 7, 2021)

I recently did my 2014 Diesel Cruze at 126,000 miles. I was starting to worry about the condition of the belt. Two different dealerships quoted me $1,200 to do the job. That included replacing the water pump at the same time. I ended up buying the tools and a Camshaft Counter Hold off Amazon and buying all of the genuine GM parts online for about $440. Just for the discussion, I bought them all from RockAuto.

The job took me about 4 hours, as I was doing it on a weekend visiting my parents with my kids. My Dad doesn't have the greatest tools and they aren't organized and neat like mine. I did bring some of the specialty sockets and such with me, as I knew this was the time I was going to have to really get it done, and I was really starting to worry about the belt letting go! I am pretty confident I could have done it in 2 hours with all of the proper tools ready to go. I replaced the water pump, timing belt, all of the pulleys, and did the same for the accessory belt.

What I found was kind of amazing...the timing belt looked in really great shape with no cracks at all! I could have saved money by not replacing the pulleys, they all seemed to be in good shape, but since this is my daily, I didn't want any down-time waiting to get another replacement part. The accessory belt was definitely showing its age as it had lots of cracks, but probably would have been okay for a while more.

My guess is that the PNW climate that I live in, is mild enough that I am not driving in really hot weather. I am guessing that is why the timing belt looked so good at 126k. Also, it gets mostly highway miles.

Anyways...that is all I have to report, besides that I hate those plastic rivets!!!! Almost every single one broke trying to get them out of the inner wheel well liner. Oh, and contrary to what I found searching on the internet, there is a petcock on the bottom of the radiator, passenger's side. the outlet points right at the frame, but I put a small hose on it to direct the coolant into a pan and mad zero mess! You do have to pull off the forward most, bottom panel under the bumper to gain access.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 longer bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the sub frame?


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## tacat4 (2 mo ago)

BDCCruze said:


> Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 longer bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the sub frame?


ugh, I just did this last week, I looked but threw away the parts list I had... including bolts, not sure if this is helpful or not, but I just bought the bolt kit from idparts, includes everything you need:
Timing Belt Bolt Kit (Chevrolet Cruze) 
Hardware | IDParts.com - Diesel Parts lists each bolt individually


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> Anyone know the part numbers for the 2 longer bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the sub frame?


here is the part you're looking for, you need 3 bolts, part GM #11570514:
More Information for GM GENUINE 11570514 (rockauto.com)

also here is a complete list of parts of what I've ordered from rockauto when I did mine:
water pump - ACDELCO 251758 GM
timing belt - ACDELCO 55580776
timing belt tensioner - ACDELCO 55580981
accessory belt - ACDELCO 55578485
timing belt pulley - ACDELCO 55187100
belt tensioner - ACDELCO 55562864
I found rockauto prices and shipping very reasonable compare with what I've heard about idparts, just my say.
I strongly advise you to get the timing belt lockout tool, you can find it on amazon, you may need to flush out your coolant too, make sure you torque all bolts as specified in the manual, also as the old folks said: measure 3 times, cut once! take your time, don't rush ... cheers


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

pacolino said:


> here is the part you're looking for, you need 3 bolts, part GM #11570514:
> More Information for GM GENUINE 11570514 (rockauto.com)
> 
> also here is a complete list of parts of what I've ordered from rockauto when I did mine:
> ...


Thanks.

The '3 bolts' you listed are to attach the motor mount to the engine bracket.

I'm talking specifically about the 2 long bolts that hold the mount to the frame. I _think_ it's #12855327

When I did my belt at 125k miles the bolts were chewed up pretty bad but I had to re-use them. Definitely going to replace when my next one is due later in 2023.

Thanks.


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## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The '3 bolts' you listed are to attach the motor mount to the engine bracket.
> 
> ...


yeah you're right, I think I reused mines (the 2 long mounting bolts) when I did the TB job last year...cheers


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