# Burning up Coil pack



## Abo1775 (Jul 7, 2020)

Hello, everyone been having a problem with the coil pack.2014 Cruze 1.4T. Cylinder 1 keeps missing. Have swapped out two packs already and replace the spark plugs. First time it happens I chalked it to normal wear and tear. 85k miles in car. Did tune up replace plugs and coil pack. (AC Delco). Been driving perfectly fine for almost 3 weeks, and again started missing on cylinder 1. Looks like the pack burned up again. Any advise? Thanks.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Plug boots not torn and springs seated properly?


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

How are you figuring it burned up?


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

How does the bottom of the #1 plug well look? Is there any oil down there? The 1.8's are prone to valve cover leaks which allow oil to seep into the well and short out the coil, which can damage it, as well as causing a misfire.

As I recall, the gen1 1.4T valve cover gaskets are prone to doing that, too. (Hopefully somebody with one will chime in here.)

When you swapped plugs and replaced the coil module, did you notice any oil on the #1 boot?

Doug

.


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## Abo1775 (Jul 7, 2020)

No oil residue, Boots on coil pack look great no burn marks or oil. The old Spark plug (which I replaced) looked burned up as it would be expected at 85k miles, new one looks a bit smoked up but it can be due to the miss-firing nothing to unusual . DTC p0301 keeps setting on ECM and engine has a hard misfire at idle but levels out at about 2k RPM. Same code both times, cleared it after I replaced the coil 3 weeks ago didn’t set again until this new coil went out.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

There's a multitude of things that can cause a misfire. Besides the coil.


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## Abo1775 (Jul 7, 2020)

True, many causes for a misfire. But how many for #1 cylinder, intermittent causing the coil to burn up. It is possible the injector could be bad too. Only has a P0301 code. The first time it happened I was at a stop light, engine started to shake and SES light began to blink...had to drive about a block to park. Replaced coil pack and plugs. Car drove fine for about 3 weeks(daily driver to work) no problems. Two days ago same exact thing happened. Pulled the plug it’s not too bad has a bit of white residue But no oil or heavy fuel smell. Coil was under warranty so I have the new one already, but before I just drop it in I just wanted to make sure I’m not missing a bigger issue. I was also thinking faulty fuel injector. Easiest repair was swapping the coil...specially when out on the street. It did Fix the problem so I didn’t think much more of it it now lol.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Abo1775 said:


> But how many for #1 cylinder, intermittent causing the coil to burn up. It is possible the injector could be bad too. Only has a P0301 code.


The injector may cause a misfire, but will that kill the #1 coil?
That said, inspect the wiring at the #1 injector to be sure it's not damaged.

The other thought I had is, maybe the #1 plug is somehow bad leading to misfires and coil failures. Maybe there's a hairline crack in the ceramic, for example. Try swapping plugs 1 and 2, and see if the misfire moves.

Lastly, inspect closely the wiring going to the coil pack. I can see how a damaged wire could cause misfire, but not sure how that would kill the #1 coil. Nonetheless, make sure the wires are not damaged at the connector.

I've seen someone get a bad coil module right out of the box, but you've replaced it twice now, right? So I'm thinking the problem lies elsewhere, but I'm about stumped.

Doug

.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

How about compression?


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

snowwy66 said:


> How about compression?


I'm sure that can cause a misfire. But it won't kill the coil, right?

Doug

.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

plano-doug said:


> I'm sure that can cause a misfire. But it won't kill the coil, right?
> 
> Doug
> 
> .


How do we know the coil is dead?

What we know is the cylinder isn't working. For whatever reason. Dead coil is being assumed.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

snowwy66 said:


> How do we know the coil is dead?
> 
> What we know is the cylinder isn't working. For whatever reason. Dead coil is being assumed.


Good point. 

The OP, Abo1775, after replacing the coil module, did say "Been driving perfectly fine for almost 3 weeks, and again started missing on cylinder 1." So that makes me think the #1 coil is indeed bad.

But maybe not. He can ohm out the coil - if #1 is shot, it should have decidedly different readings than the other 3.

And that may steer us elsewhere, such as to a bad connection on the coil module. Maybe plugging in a new coil module restored a poor connection, but now it's worked its way open again, after a few days of driving.

Thinking out loud...

Doug

.


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

I'm willing to bet it's not the coil. I've very rarely seen an actual ignition coil fail (internally anyways, I've seen the boots rip, internals fall apart etc) Especially since he replaced it several times along with the spark plugs.

I'm with Doug - swap #1 and #2 plugs and see if the misfire follows. If it stays with #1 then it's something else - wiring to the coil, injector, wiring to the injector, etc. as coil failure (especially multiple times on the same unit) is a very rare thing.

You could also try the MSD unit: 8236-MSD Ignition Coil 2011-2016 GM 1.4T

Or you could go all-out and get their LS7 coil upgrade. They say it requires a tune but I seriously doubt that. I've never seen anything need a tune after upgrading the coil: BNR-LS7COIL-BNR LS7 Coil Upgrade LUV-LUJ 1.4T

Mice like to eat wires. Toyota made the smart move to soy-based wire insulation a bunch of years ago. The animals LOVED that stuff.


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## Abo1775 (Jul 7, 2020)

Thanks to everyone for the help. Been getting out late from work so haven’t been messing with the car. I replaced all four plugs last time, the chance of getting a second bad New plug on the same cylinder are very low. I’ll give it a shot and straight replace the plug but since I already traded the old coil for the new one (Under warranty) I can’t really duplicate the problem. An Other thing that came to mind is a short somewhere in the coil wiring circuit and possibly shorting out On the frame when I hit a bump. Anyone seen that or now of a common rubbing point. I understand coils don’t just go bad. Most of the time a bad coil is easy to detect even without a scanner, my problem is I can’t narrow down the reason for it going bad or giving me a misfire. No DTCs set other then p301. I don’t work at a shop anymore so I don’t have access to any of the big diagnostic toys or electronic libraries. I Really do appreciate every ones input and help. Thanks guys.


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## Cruton (Sep 19, 2017)

I had similar symptoms in my 2014 1.4T. Replaced the factory coils - which, btw, were like new in appearance - with the MSD 82363. Best $100 I have spent in the car. It not only eliminated the problem, but it improved the idling and performance all around.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Cruton said:


> I had similar symptoms in my 2014 1.4T. Replaced the factory coils - which, btw, were like new in appearance - with the MSD 82363. Best $100 I have spent in the car. It not only eliminated the problem, but it improved the idling and performance all around.


Same, along with the Big 3 kit.


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## BigBsvo (Oct 14, 2020)

Abo1775 said:


> Hello, everyone been having a problem with the coil pack.2014 Cruze 1.4T. Cylinder 1 keeps missing. Have swapped out two packs already and replace the spark plugs. First time it happens I chalked it to normal wear and tear. 85k miles in car. Did tune up replace plugs and coil pack. (AC Delco). Been driving perfectly fine for almost 3 weeks, and again started missing on cylinder 1. Looks like the pack burned up again. Any advise? Thanks.


I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


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## Abo1775 (Jul 7, 2020)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


I ended up replacing spark plugs with higher quality ones replaced the coil with oem and added die electric grease to the connector to make sure it has a better contact point also been putting high octane fuel. It’s been a few months, driving it every day and still good. Never found a solid cause for the problem,I checked all the harnesses around the engine and connectors. Every thing seemed to be good. Only other possible cause could be a harness around the frame that I can’t see rubbing and shorting out. If anything changes I’ll definitely post it up. Thanks


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Not everyone on here are techs, but on average the problem is usually solved fairly quickly. As with anything on the internet, you need to weed out the chaff.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Abo1775 said:


> I ended up replacing spark plugs with higher quality ones replaced the coil with oem and added die electric grease to the connector to make sure it has a better contact point also been putting high octane fuel. It’s been a few months, driving it every day and still good. Never found a solid cause for the problem,I checked all the harnesses around the engine and connectors. Every thing seemed to be good. Only other possible cause could be a harness around the frame that I can’t see rubbing and shorting out. If anything changes I’ll definitely post it up. Thanks


Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

*Set gap with the black portion of this tool.*










To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE *IRIDIUM* CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

*Measure the gap with feeler gauges.*










*Throw this away.*












Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

*-BKR8EIX-2668* (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
*-BKR7E-4644* (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read _Hesitation Gone!_ for more info on the plugs.






A good replacement coil is the MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

plano-doug said:


> How does the bottom of the #1 plug well look? Is there any oil down there? The 1.8's are prone to valve cover leaks which allow oil to seep into the well and short out the coil, which can damage it, as well as causing a misfire.
> 
> As I recall, the gen1 1.4T valve cover gaskets are prone to doing that, too. (Hopefully somebody with one will chime in here.)
> 
> ...


As far as I have seen, that usually happens on a 1.4 when the PCV valve in the manifold fails or when someone forgets the two places that form-a-gasket should be used on a replacement.


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## TetraHC (May 13, 2020)

Doug


plano-doug said:


> How does the bottom of the #1 plug well look? Is there any oil down there? The 1.8's are prone to valve cover leaks which allow oil to seep into the well and short out the coil, which can damage it, as well as causing a misfire.
> 
> As I recall, the gen1 1.4T valve cover gaskets are prone to doing that, too. (Hopefully somebody with one will chime in here.)
> 
> ...


I was having the same issue as the gentleman & i noticed quite a bit of oil residue on my plug & in the well. Do i have a valvke cover leak you think?


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

TetraHC said:


> I was having the same issue as the gentleman & i noticed quite a bit of oil residue on my plug & in the well. Do i have a valvke cover leak you think?


Probably. 

Doug

.


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## Cman2000 (Oct 10, 2020)

Have you fix the problem? If not look at my discussion that I posted.


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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


 I have a 2011 Cruze 1.4L in my shop now with the same issue. There is a short to power at the IGN coil #1 circuit (terminal D of the Ign coil connector) coming from the ECM connector. Somehow power is travelling through the ECM connector (Through the plastic??) I haven't determined the fix just yet, only the problem. Hope this helps.


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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)

Cman2000 said:


> Have you fix the problem? If not look at my discussion that I posted.


Check my previous message.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

The shorts are usually due to corrosion from coolant wicking up the harness through a failed sensor or t-stat heater. Sometimes it's carbon buildup from burned connections due to high resistance in connnector(less common)


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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)

Ma v e n said:


> The shorts are usually due to corrosion from coolant wicking up the harness through a failed sensor or t-stat heater. Sometimes it's carbon buildup from burned connections due to high resistance in connnector(less common)


I'm still working on a fix here, removing the pins and cleaning the connector doesn't seem to help. THoughts?


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Back the ign1 terminal out of the ECM connector, see if your short to power goes away. If it does you either need a new ECM or just need to clean better(likely taking apart the connector body and cleaning in between the female terminals) if the short doesn't disappear you have a physical short through the insulation, just run a new wire from the ECM to coil


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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)




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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)

Ma v e n said:


> Back the ign1 terminal out of the ECM connector, see if your short to power goes away. If it does you either need a new ECM or just need to clean better(likely taking apart the connector body and cleaning in between the female terminals) if the short doesn't disappear you have a physical short through the insulation, just run a new wire from the ECM to coil


no amount of cleaning could stop the short. This was ridiculous. I swapped the X3 and X2 connectors (I had to shave a bit of plastic off so the connectors would swap.) Every wire transferred over easily and X3 doesn't use pins 1 or 2 which is where the short was located.


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## Mudjeeper (Nov 23, 2020)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


I'm having the same issue with my son's 2014 1.4T. New plugs. New ignition coil x2. #1 misfire and has blowed the 2nd coil and keeps blowing the 15amp injector fuse. Could a bad injector be the problem? I've also cleaned and reconnected all the ground wires I could find.


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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)

Mudjeeper said:


> I'm having the same issue with my son's 2014 1.4T. New plugs. New ignition coil x2. #1 misfire and has blowed the 2nd coil and keeps blowing the 15amp injector fuse. Could a bad injector be the problem? I've also cleaned and reconnected all the ground wires I could find.


Did you watch the video I posted. This is probably your problem


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## Cman2000 (Oct 10, 2020)

Mudjeeper said:


> I'm having the same issue with my son's 2014 1.4T. New plugs. New ignition coil x2. #1 misfire and has blowed the 2nd coil and keeps blowing the 15amp injector fuse. Could a bad injector be the problem? I've also cleaned and reconnected all the ground wires I could find.


Hey. I’m not sure how to link or send you to the discussion I had. So I will try to copy and paste it. So sorry so long but this worked for me.
Ok. New update. I’m back looking at the coil. I checked my ohms on the ground- ok. I checked all the coil wires to see if I had short to power. 2,3,4 had around .024 volts. The #1 ( D pin , blue with Violet color wire ) had .130 volts and was Changing/dropping. After disconnecting the battery. I pulled the computer connector ( the middle one ) again. This time I found moisture around the #1 pin for #1 coil ( Blue with violet color wire ). However I did see some more around pin #14 a light blue wire. As Blueblurr had said the he had a wet connector plug on the sensor on the thermostat housing ( which is called engine coolant thermostat heater) and this is the same wire. Believe it or not, over time the coolant is getting pushed through the wire all the way to the computer connector. Not sure if I can buy just the heater or have to buy the whole thermostat housing Assembly. As I changed it out once already sometime ago. It comes with the thermostat sensor and gasket. Tomorrow I will also be cutting the wire from the sensor to the computer and soldering in a new wire because the new wire could be getting corroded and will give me problems later on as well or even have moisture in it that will get back to the computer and give me problems again. I will also clean the sensor connector as well as cleaning and drying out the computer connector. Looking at the pins on the computer they look to be OK. After that I will install Another new coil and hope for the best. Sorry so long but try to give as much detail to help everybody out. Hope it works. I’ll keep you updated as things go along any questions don’t hesitate to ask. I appreciate the help you guys been.


> Today I took the computer connector apart. I found corrosion on number one pin for the #1 coil and #2 pin for #1 injector. Power was back feeding from the second pin to the first pin. Cleaned up all the pens in the connector and put back together. I clean the connector up for the center inside the thermostat housing. Then replace the light blue wire between the thermostat sensor and the computer connector. Replace the thermostat housing assembly with the sensor. Re-check my test and it all came out good I only had .015 volts. - all good. Put dielectric grease on all the connectors. Running good today will update after a couple days of running.






























Hope this helps


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## Cpffemt (Nov 26, 2020)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Did you figure out the problem? I was driving to work and my car started missing bought a coil pack, put it in and totally burned cylinder 1’s coil. (It melted and came apart when I removed it) I thought I had gotten a bad coil pack so I returned it and got it replaced. again the second coil pack started shooting the fuse. I thought maybe it was a bad (autozone) product and replaced it with a different brand same problem third time out now I am at a total loss and have no clue which way to go.


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## Kdog7012 (Nov 20, 2020)

Cpffemt said:


> Did you figure out the problem? I was driving to work and my car started missing bought a coil pack, put it in and totally burned cylinder 1’s coil. (It melted and came apart when I removed it) I thought I had gotten a bad coil pack so I returned it and got it replaced. again the second coil pack started shooting the fuse. I thought maybe it was a bad (autozone) product and replaced it with a different brand same problem third time out now I am at a total loss and have no clue which way to go.


Yes, there have been three different posts with the fix. One of them is a video.


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## Tahoe 1416 (Nov 30, 2020)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Hi i am having the exact same problem the smell the cracked coils everything, did you ever figure it out??


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## Izzy (Dec 4, 2020)

Mudjeeper said:


> I'm having the same issue with my son's 2014 1.4T. New plugs. New ignition coil x2. #1 misfire and has blowed the 2nd coil and keeps blowing the 15amp injector fuse. Could a bad injector be the problem? I've also cleaned and reconnected all the ground wires I could find.


Hi Mudjeeper,
did you figure out the problem?
i already cleaned the connector like the guy in video said
but my Cruze still blowing the injectors fuse


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## Izzy (Dec 4, 2020)

Kdog7012 said:


> Yes, there have been three different posts with the fix. One of them is a video.


Hi Kdog,
what are the other 2 post with fix, besides the one in the video from ATS?


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## Joey m. (Dec 30, 2020)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


So did u figure this out?


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## Cruze2012arizona (Jan 6, 2021)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


I have the exact same problem !! Did you figure out what was wrong ??? Would appreciate any help !??


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## Cman2000 (Oct 10, 2020)

H


Cruze2012arizona said:


> I have the exact same problem !! Did you figure out what was wrong ??? Would appreciate any help !??


Have you seen my post on the repair I found and finally fix. Have details and pictures


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## Mudjeeper (Nov 23, 2020)

Abo1775 said:


> Hello, everyone been having a problem with the coil pack.2014 Cruze 1.4T. Cylinder 1 keeps missing. Have swapped out two packs already and replace the spark plugs. First time it happens I chalked it to normal wear and tear. 85k miles in car. Did tune up replace plugs and coil pack. (AC Delco). Been driving perfectly fine for almost 3 weeks, and again started missing on cylinder 1. Looks like the pack burned up again. Any advise? Thanks.


My son's 2014 1.4T was doing the same thing..after many coil packs and spark plugs later the problem was the middle connector to the ecm..corrosion shorting #1 causing it to blow. Cleaned it and the inside cap with electrical cleaner and added some electrical grease. Bought a new ignition coil and so far running like new again. Hope this helps.


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## Mudjeeper (Nov 23, 2020)

Izzy said:


> Hi Mudjeeper,
> did you figure out the problem?
> i already cleaned the connector like the guy in video said
> but my Cruze still blowing the injectors fuse


Yes it was corrosion where the ignition coil, fuel injector harness connects to the ecm on driver's side fender. The middle connector.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I was wondering if this issue was going to be similar to what my brother had to do on his '01 Mustang GT to get it to stop exploding coil number 5 instantly, but it looks like the fix is much, much similar.

His, for reference, required removing the entire engine harness, and then "opening it up" to find the ground wire for coil number 5 (those coils have constant power, and the ECM switches the ground when it is time to discharge) and fixing the short.


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## Mudjeeper (Nov 23, 2020)

MP81 said:


> I was wondering if this issue was going to be similar to what my brother had to do on his '01 Mustang GT to get it to stop exploding coil number 5 instantly, but it looks like the fix is much, much similar.
> 
> His, for reference, required removing the entire engine harness, and then "opening it up" to find the ground wire for coil number 5 (those coils have constant power, and the ECM switches the ground when it is time to discharge) and fixing the short.
> 
> ...


Luckily my son's harness was ok and just the connector had corrosion.


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## clouse (Apr 16, 2021)

Blasirl said:


> Not everyone on here are techs, but on average the problem is usually solved fairly quickly. As with anything on the internet, you need to weed out the chaff.


i have replaced 4 coil and part of wiring harness. ecm has Ben replaced


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

clouse said:


> i have replaced 4 coil and part of wiring harness. ecm has Ben replaced


Welcome aboard!

Did you fix the issue?

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Shade Tree Tech (Apr 29, 2021)

Kdog7012 said:


> I have a 2011 Cruze 1.4L in my shop now with the same issue. There is a short to power at the IGN coil #1 circuit (terminal D of the Ign coil connector) coming from the ECM connector. Somehow power is travelling through the ECM connector (Through the plastic??) I haven't determined the fix just yet, only the problem. Hope this helps.





Joey m. said:


> So did u figure this out?


You are right the ecm connector is conductive and shorting to ground also affecting #3 coil driver by using a powered led test light you can see with both connectors disconnected there should be no green or red light when checking for short to ground


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## Gtoman123 (May 21, 2021)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


I have a car doing the same thing, on the 3rd coil, did you find a fix??


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## Bobg (Jun 21, 2021)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Keep us updated i have same situation.put brand new coil pack on went around the block and# one boot is melted off the pack


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## Zoomzoom21 (Jul 27, 2021)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Did you ever figure out what was causing it ? I purchased a Chevy Cruze and it’s doing the exact same, already bought two coil packs and always blows them up


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Zoomzoom21 said:


> Did you ever figure out what was causing it ? I purchased a Chevy Cruze and it’s doing the exact same, already bought two coil packs and always blows them up


Welcome Aboard!

Just to make sure, did you read the complete thread? There have been multiple fixes for differing issues. Here is one more possibility:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf

don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Zoomzoom21 (Jul 27, 2021)

Thank you Blasirl, 
I managed to find what was wrong and fixed the issue, thermostat sensor had coolant inside and was causing a short. Seems like a common problem lol 
Fixed that now the valve cover gasket is leaking air out of the valve, also seems to be a common problem
Too bad it’s already at 101k miles and power train warranty is up. 
Thanks. 



Blasirl said:


> Welcome Aboard!
> 
> Just to make sure, did you read the complete thread? There have been multiple fixes for differing issues. Here is one more possibility:
> 
> ...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Zoomzoom21 said:


> Thank you Blasirl,
> I managed to find what was wrong and fixed the issue, thermostat sensor had coolant inside and was causing a short. Seems like a common problem lol
> Fixed that now the *valve cover *gasket *is *l*eaking air out of the valve*, also seems to be a common problem
> Too bad it’s already at 101k miles and power train warranty is up.
> Thanks.


*2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues*
www.cruzekits.com


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## Misspadyt2u (Aug 29, 2021)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Did you ever figure out what it was?
I have a 2012 replaced coils twice, replaced all the spark plugs, the Computer is reading that the fuel injector is fine. Ran test on everything and still popping cyl 1 and 3 misfire, heads are fine.( I mean clean no carbon build up nothing.) The solenoid valve isn’t ReAding on the computer. So what’s missing? Oh and checked the wiring. Any other suggestion and replaced the turbo. About to strip this bitch and sell it for parts.
Help! Thanks T


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Misspadyt2u said:


> Did you ever figure out what it was?
> I have a 2012 replaced coils twice, replaced all the spark plugs, the Computer is reading that the fuel injector is fine. Ran test on everything and still popping cyl 1 and 3 misfire, heads are fine.( I mean clean no carbon build up nothing.) The solenoid valve isn’t ReAding on the computer. So what’s missing? Oh and checked the wiring. Any other suggestion and replaced the turbo. About to strip this bitch and sell it for parts.
> Help! Thanks T


Welcome Aboard!

Dd you read through this entire thread? There are multiple solutions for different problems with the same or similar symptoms in this thread alone and there are many more that you can search for. Take a little more time and flesh out what you have done, what codes were read and what parts were replaced as a starter.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Belltim (Sep 24, 2021)

BigBsvo said:


> I know what you are talking about, the coil pack is burnt on the side of the coil, it's cracked and burnt and cooked, probably smells like an electrical fire. These guys that are trying to help you by saying " I have never heard of a coil pack burning up, it's your spark plugs" or what ever they are saying just shows they are not technicians and probably shotgun parts at cars and hope they fixed it. I have a 2014 Cruze in my shop right now for the exact same problem. We have not figured it out yet but as soon as we do I will post the fix for you and hopefully that will helps.


Did you figure out the problem?


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## Zoomzoom21 (Jul 27, 2021)

Belltim said:


> Did you figure out the problem?


Check your thermostat housing, coolant gets in there and causes a short that burns up the coils


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## gmerritt12985 (11 mo ago)

I


Abo1775 said:


> Hello, everyone been having a problem with the coil pack.2014 Cruze 1.4T. Cylinder 1 keeps missing. Have swapped out two packs already and replace the spark plugs. First time it happens I chalked it to normal wear and tear. 85k miles in car. Did tune up replace plugs and coil pack. (AC Delco). Been driving perfectly fine for almost 3 weeks, and again started missing on cylinder 1. Looks like the pack burned up again. Any advise? Thanks.


I am have samn problem I replaced my valve cover and gasket bc it was leaking oil in to plug hole and shorting them out so got that fixed replaced plugs coil pack also had to replace catalytic converter bc code said it was going bad and o2 sensors pcv valve had to be changed twice from getting stuck open after all the the car would start up and drive for about 16 miles then burn up the coil pack again but valve cover is not leaking anymore so that's not the problem also have Stabilitrak light flashing now got feed up took it to dealer the said it needs coil pack plugs something in the dash cluster reprogrammed an they wanted 1600 to do it all witch is insane but I asked them I said ok if I let u all do that witch is the samn thing iv done except the cluster reprogramme and then it doesn't fix it are u all going to put my parts back on and give me my money back and then try somthing eles to fix it they said no I said well what if u do all that and it's not the problem these ass holes said well u got to start somewhere lmao I about smaked the guy like he was a transexual that I had sex with and didnt tell me till after the deed was done so anyways sorry for long story but if u fig it out could h pls shoot me a message I'd be really grateful


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## gmerritt12985 (11 mo ago)

Did u all figure out the problem yet bc I'm haveing samn thing going on with my wifes car


Belltim said:


> Did you figure out the problem?


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

I was having a bad misfire in cyclinder 1 (Closest to driver side). I removed the coil pack and did that knowing there was a risk of tearing a boot. Cylinder 1 boot remained in the plug hole and I could see exceptional corrosion on the spring tip. I removed the spring and cleaned it and sanded so I could see metal again. After reassembly the misfire was less frequent so I ordered a new coil pack to be installed this weekend. Is this a common problem? I'll let you know how it goes after the new pack is installed.


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## Scotticruze (6 mo ago)

Did you ever check for corrosion at the ECM connection?


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

Scotticruze said:


> Did you ever check for corrosion at the ECM connection?


2014 1.4 turbo 146K KM

The connecton looks fine, allthough it was dry and I assume there should be some grease in there. The spring and the tip between the spring and the coil pack was very green and inside the coil hole was a lot of crud. No codes were ever tripped atleast on my budget OBD reader but the CEL blinked during misfire and "Service Stabiltrax" appeared on the console. I let the car sit all day and just went out and started it up and there is no misfire anymore although I have had a few drinks so we did not go for a ride and get up to operating temperature. I noticed my purge solenoid is unusually louder than the normal Clicking from this engine.

A few things to note,
It was +40C with humidity
87 Octane
Valve cover has been replaced and a boost leak test was performed.
My orange nipple check valve in the manifold is still in place and my valve cover is not leaking air or oil.
twice now it has a produced a low boost code and the boost was disabled but reengaged on it's own without me interfering.

Hope that helps


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

I replaced the coilpack yesterday and my misfire is gone. I noticed after startup once everything winds down to operating speeds the purge solenoid starts clicking. I know these things have a click to them anyway but it seems aggressive, mind you I don't open the hood everyday and listen to purge valves. Is there a way to check this? Like, is my clicking normal clicking or is it broken clicking? lol
This car rarely produces codes either. With the misfire we had to drive about 20KM with the car surging dumping fuel down the exhaust and a code was never produced.


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## power4utoo (Dec 11, 2018)

I am wondering if anyone has tried this yet. I am considering doing so myself, unless someone here can talk me out of it. This "High Performance" Coil pack from ZZ. Is our plug gap issues and misfires, rough idle really, in part, caused by a weaker OEM coil pack? Are there any Quasi-Electrical engineers out there that can, make a case for this? It seems to make some sense, intuitively. Better spark, better performance. I also saw a comment, where folks are using NGK with the wider plug gap, do to the increased power at the plug. This is intriguing as well. What say you? LINK: ZZP 1.4T High Voltage Coil Pack


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## christopher.k.ck (9 mo ago)

power4utoo said:


> I am wondering if anyone has tried this yet. I am considering doing so myself, unless someone here can talk me out of it. This "High Performance" Coil pack from ZZ. Is our plug gap issues and misfires, rough idle really, in part, caused by a weaker OEM coil pack? Are there any Quasi-Electrical engineers out there that can, make a case for this? It seems to make some sense, intuitively. Better spark, better performance. I also saw a comment, where folks are using NGK with the wider plug gap, do to the increased power at the plug. This is intriguing as well. What say you? LINK: ZZP 1.4T High Voltage Coil Pack


I replaced the coil pack with a mexican AC delco off Amazon, it was about 1/3 the price of the dealership and exactly what you get from from GM (I work for GM Parts Distribution so I have a lot of time to look at the differences between the General Motors parts I ship to dealerships, and parts I order from Amazon) The car runs great now, no misfires.
The purge solenoid I removed I could blow/suck through the tube which meant the valve was stuck open causing rough Idle. Same deal, I bought the part on amazon for a fraction of the cost, tried blowing/sucking through the new valve and it was air tight. I installed it on the car and rough idle was dismissed.
I've never tried any of the performance parts so I have no input for the ZZP parts.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

power4utoo said:


> I am wondering if anyone has tried this yet. I am considering doing so myself, unless someone here can talk me out of it. This "High Performance" Coil pack from ZZ. Is our plug gap issues and misfires, rough idle really, in part, caused by a weaker OEM coil pack? Are there any Quasi-Electrical engineers out there that can, make a case for this? It seems to make some sense, intuitively. Better spark, better performance. I also saw a comment, where folks are using NGK with the wider plug gap, do to the increased power at the plug. This is intriguing as well. What say you? LINK: ZZP 1.4T High Voltage Coil Pack


Check this post out









Help please


2014 CHEVY CRUZ , ROUGH IDLE , LOSS OF POWER , CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS RAN FINE FOR ABOUT 100 MILES WITH SLIGHT LOSS OF POWER AND ROUGH IDLE, SAYS MISFIRE CYLINDER 3 ( REPLACED ALL SPARK PLUGS) AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FLASHES AND SERVICE STABILITY TRACK MESSAGE FLASHING .IT IS A TURBO AND HAS...




www.cruzetalk.com


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