# 120k 2.0 engine failure



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well the Cruze had been a good car owned it 4 years now very little issues and yesterday with very little warning the rod decided to come out of the block. 😳 will be looking for a new motor to replace this one.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

If you have the means, please tear down the engine and take a look at the oil pump seal for us. That would go a long way to helping us document the few engine failures we've seen with these engines.


----------



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Oil Pump Pick Up Seal


This is to create a stickied thread dedicated to the rubber seal that rests between the metal oil pump mounted on the engine block and the plastic pick up tube that descends into the oil pan. This seal hardens with time and use. Loosing its pliability and causing the oil pump to draw small...




www.cruzetalk.com


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

At 119k one of the connecting rods was sent through the side of the block with very little warning. I was on way home cruise set on highway goin 70 and i got a faint smell of oil. I was passing a semi with the window down and the car started making noise at first i thought it was the semi. By the time i got by him i realized it was my car. I was about 3 miles from home and i was trying to make it home without a tow and when i went up the next hill engine noise got loud and then boom. Rod through block pieces all over highway. I worked last weekend almost got engine out of car found another one to drop in we will see how this engine swap goes.


----------



## Shroomie (Jan 16, 2017)

Mw548 said:


> At 119k one of the connecting rods was sent through the side of the block with very little warning. I was on way home cruise set on highway goin 70 and i got a faint smell of oil. I was passing a semi with the window down and the car started making noise at first i thought it was the semi. By the time i got by him i realized it was my car. I was about 3 miles from home and i was trying to make it home without a tow and when i went up the next hill engine noise got loud and then boom. Rod through block pieces all over highway. I worked last weekend almost got engine out of car found another one to drop in we will see how this engine swap goes.


that's not normal 🕵️‍♂️🤷‍♂️ sounds like you had rod knock for a short time.. unlucky, but at highway speeds 😑


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Before you put the new one in, take the time to do this bit of preventative maintenance (might be what caused yours to fail?)









Oil Pump Pick Up Seal


This is to create a stickied thread dedicated to the rubber seal that rests between the metal oil pump mounted on the engine block and the plastic pick up tube that descends into the oil pan. This seal hardens with time and use. Loosing its pliability and causing the oil pump to draw small...




www.cruzetalk.com


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

yeah i think is the 4th motor.


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

whats your oil change routine? change it when the DIC says or ?

whats you lifetime mpg?

im trying to find a correlation - lower mpg means more regens, more regens is more oil dilution, dunno if the extra fuel/heat from regens causes the seal to fail, or just the dilution itself is enough to reduce lubrication to cause these rods coming thru the block, but i also think if it was oil dilution the turbo would be failing first

or the seal itself is just doomed regardless


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well i decided to replace the engine myself. The car isn’t worth selling the value is to low on the cruzes. I purchased a used engine with 2 year warranty for 1800. Dropped the new engine in now i got to hook up the electrical. I shoulda taken more time and labeled them coming apart it’s a mess. I should be able to match them up just working on it a little bit at a time seems to keep chiseling away at the project.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Most of my miles are highway i change my oil every 2 cycles of the oil change which i believe puts me at around 6k per oil change. Lifetime mpg I’m not to sure as i have the car torn apart still. But i have done maitenance myself timing chain i drained the transmission twice and filled other then that it’s just been brakes and oil. Been a good car until this.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

When i got the engine out it looks as if two separate rods came through the block different cylinders 3 and 4 maybe the two furthest away from the timing belt. Opposite sides of block too


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

If anybody is reading this a couple i pictures of how the wiring harness sits behind the engine and by the battery tray would be very helpful i shoulda done some more labeling when i took it apart . Maybe a few pictures from all sides of engine would help me hook things up. There are a lot of electrical connectors on this engine let me tell ya


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Mw548 said:


> Most of my miles are highway i change my oil every 2 cycles of the oil change which i believe puts me at around 6k per oil change. Lifetime mpg I’m not to sure as i have the car torn apart still. But i have done maitenance myself timing chain i drained the transmission twice and filled other then that it’s just been brakes and oil. Been a good car until this.


What do you mean, 2 cycles - like from 100% to 0% then you reset it to 100% and go back to 0%, then change the oil?

If so, that's 15,000 miles per oil change. 100 to 0 is 7,500 miles.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

On my Cruze a cycle is 3,000 miles from 100-0. Been that way since i bought it with 30k on it if you took the time to read my post you would see i said around 6k miles then i change the oil. Love how everybody has to get their opinions in and jump to conclusions.


----------



## NUMBER2 (May 23, 2019)

That is interesting only 3000 miles 100% to 0%. There are 4 ways the oil life monitor decrease from 100 to 0. 1% per 75 miles, which is what mine does (also in owner's manual, 7500 mile change). Straight to 0% after 365 days. Straight to 0% after an engine overheat. And finally, at a rate I'm unsure of that is based on engine run time. All this info comes straight from the factory service manual.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Mw548 said:


> On my Cruze a cycle is 3,000 miles from 100-0. Been that way since i bought it with 30k on it if you took the time to read my post you would see i said around 6k miles then i change the oil. Love how everybody has to get their opinions in and jump to conclusions.


_Condition/Concern

Since 2010 all GM vehicles have been equipped with the oil life monitor (OLM) system
The monitor calculates the percent of oil life remaining, based on 3 pathways

The OLM starts its calculation for all pathways after the first 50 miles to account for marshalling and time before sale. Subsequently, calculations begin immediately after each reset.

Recommendation/Instructions
Oil Life Monitor Calculation Pathways:
1. Engine revolutions- Oil life starts with a fixed number of revolutions and will decrease with each revolution. Cold / hot coolant temp readings have multipliers that reduce engine revolutions pathway quicker depending on how far from the normal oil temperature the vehicle is operating.
Note: If engine coolant temp gets above 260F, engine overheat condition, the oil life will go to 0%.

2. Mileage from last reset – Starting with MY 2013, the OLM is capped at 7500 miles for all GM powertrains except the Volt. In perfect conditions a vehicle would reach 7500 miles from the last reset and the oil life left would be 0%.

3. Time- This pathway is a liner function, a fixed decrease in oil life for a given time after the oil life is reset. The oil life will drop to 0% after 1 year regardless of the amount of engine revolutions or how many miles since the reset.

Note: The Volt uses a 2 year timer instead of 1 year. It also uses the engine revolution counter. It does not use the mileage pathway to count down._


----------



## brodie29a (Feb 21, 2021)

i have a side question do the diesel engines have the same blowing a hole in the block like the gas ecosh1ts (i love the cruze but the eco’s have been junk since the early 00’s when they dropped them in the last few years of the caviler). i only ask because i spent a summer doing engine and tranny swaps at a used car dealer and every cruze or cobalt has a hole in the block usually at cyl 1 or 4 and my cruze is on engine #2 because my lil bro had cyl 2 blow out (i bought the car from him after he swaped engines and mostly because it was a manual)


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Mw548 said:


> On my Cruze a cycle is 3,000 miles from 100-0. Been that way since i bought it with 30k on it if you took the time to read my post you would see i said around 6k miles then i change the oil. Love how everybody has to get their opinions in and jump to conclusions.


Well, you have a US flag on your post indicating you are from the United States and you are talking about the 2.0 Diesel in the 2014-15 Cruze forum. If that is you, then it is 7,500 miles and not 3,000 miles. So yes, I was making some assumptions.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well idk what to tell ya i reset my monitor and after around the second time it pops up i change the oil. With how much i was driving it i normally change it once over three months i guess if i was doing 15k every three months i would have quite the miles on my car haha.


----------



## Diesel4Ever (May 30, 2018)

Mine goes off ~ 7500 miles as well. They all should trigger at 7500 or one year. My 2017 Canyon Duramax is the same


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well i got the car running yesterday and it threw a crankshaft position code p0336. Gotta do some troubleshooting to see if it’s a bad sensor or wiring. Where is the crank sensor located on these engines anybody know off hand. I also had the fuel line blow off and shoot diesel everywhere… oops it’s missing the blue retainer clip where it plugs into the high pressure pump now have to source one of those too.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well after replacing a few odds and ends i ended up getting the car out and about today let it idle in the driveway for about 2 hours then took it down the highway and everything worked good. I had so much burn off i actually pulled over to make sure i wasn’t leaking anything but all looked good. I have to button a few more things up and put some splash guards and heat shields on and then it’s back to my daily driver. The hardest part about the whole swap was getting the passenger cv shaft carrier unbolted from the back of the block and there was a wire harness i shoulda transferred over to new motor before i dropped it in. (Took two people to get it plugged in) other then that it was a pretty straight forward deal.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Wondering if anybody could tell me where the vacuum lines that goes to this comes from as I’m missing a line and not sure what connects to this


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Here are a couple pictures


----------



## NUMBER2 (May 23, 2019)

One goes to turbo actuator solenoid, the middle one has a cap, and the other one has a super short hose on it that goes to that part with the electrical connector with the red lock on it. The end, not the top.









Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Thanks after looking where you described it looks like when i took the motor out i sheared off a plastic tube where that hose plugs in no wonder why i couldn’t find where it plugs in. Thanks again for your time.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well after 250 problem free miles everything is back to normal. I will look into doing the oil pump seal. All i have left is to put splash shields back on underneath after i change the fuel filter. Thanks for the pictures. They helped a lot.


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well i now have been driving it and have gone over 130k the only issue i have had is i forgot to tighten the ac compressor bolts and the bolts sheared off and belt came off…. My fault other then that I’m back to racking up miles on it. The engine came with a 2 year warranty from the junkyard unlimited miles. So I’m definitely glad i fixed it now that the fuel prices going back through the roof.😡


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Thanks for the continued updates. This information helps other members!


----------



## 2015 cruze diesel (9 mo ago)

I have a 2015 cruze 2.0 turbo diesel. I'm at 120k timing belt replaced at 105k. Serviced early it while life. Taking good care of. 
Yesterday morning as soon as I got on Interstate lost all power. Bearly made it to the next exit. 1 mile away. Replaced fuel filter and started it. Ran terrible shut off fast. Being towed to dealership now. My buddy a heavy equipment mechanic 10 plus years. Thi KS the motor is blown
Any guesses or suggestions much appreciated.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Sounds like you blew one of the charge pipes to me - super common for them to break and blow off while driving and do...exactly that.


----------



## Diesel4Ever (May 30, 2018)

2015 cruze diesel said:


> I have a 2015 cruze 2.0 turbo diesel. I'm at 120k timing belt replaced at 105k. Serviced early it while life. Taking good care of.
> Yesterday morning as soon as I got on Interstate lost all power. Bearly made it to the next exit. 1 mile away. Replaced fuel filter and started it. Ran terrible shut off fast. Being towed to dealership now. My buddy a heavy equipment mechanic 10 plus years. Thi KS the motor is blown
> Any guesses or suggestions much appreciated.


Like the other guy said, if it's not knocking it's probably the charge pipe which is a common failure item. You can get it replaced or use some zip ties to fasten it back down.

The GM part number is 95472182 and it's about $190 now, a 60% increase since I bought one 2 years ago. 

If you like the car and want to keep it on the road, you should also do the oil pickup seal ASAP.


----------



## Detrious (Jul 5, 2017)

Yea, pipe or possible stuck EGR valve. If it's stuck far enough open it will crank and start, run about 1 second while stumbling bad and then shut off. If it's only stuck a little way open it might actually run but it'll run like crap. May not throw a code, mine didn't.

Also consider replacing the oil cooler lines soon, they're made of a hard plastic that is probably getting brittle by this point and will eventually leak. Mine did that two days ago @ 142k. You can remove the brittle lines and replace them with 5/8 heater hose, you reuse the quick connect plastic ends as they have a barb fitting on them. Cheap fix that way. Or you can purchase all new lines, about $75 on amazon for both. P/N 55488382 and 55488381.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Detrious said:


> Yea, pipe or possible stuck EGR valve. If it's stuck far enough open it will crank and start, run about 1 second while stumbling bad and then shut off. If it's only stuck a little way open it might actually run but it'll run like crap. May not throw a code, mine didn't.
> 
> Also consider replacing the oil cooler lines soon, they're made of a hard plastic that is probably getting brittle by this point and will eventually leak. Mine did that two days ago @ 142k. You can remove the brittle lines and replace them with 5/8 heater hose, you reuse the quick connect plastic ends as they have a barb fitting on them. Cheap fix that way. Or you can purchase all new lines, about $75 on amazon for both. P/N 55488382 and 55488381.


I think the heater hose will last longer - stock replacement lines will eventually do the same thing.


----------



## Detrious (Jul 5, 2017)

Oh for sure, I went the rubber heater hose route.


----------



## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

Detrious said:


> Yea, pipe or possible stuck EGR valve. If it's stuck far enough open it will crank and start, run about 1 second while stumbling bad and then shut off. If it's only stuck a little way open it might actually run but it'll run like crap. May not throw a code, mine didn't.
> 
> Also consider replacing the oil cooler lines soon, they're made of a hard plastic that is probably getting brittle by this point and will eventually leak. Mine did that two days ago @ 142k. You can remove the brittle lines and replace them with 5/8 heater hose, you reuse the quick connect plastic ends as they have a barb fitting on them. Cheap fix that way. Or you can purchase all new lines, about $75 on amazon for both. P/N 55488382 and 55488381.


I discovered yesterday while looking for another part that the OEM oil cooler lines are actually available on Rockauto.com for only $22 each. They're hidden, though, since they're mis-classified under the "Heat and Air Conditioning" category as a "Heater Hose."


----------



## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

revjpeterson said:


> I discovered yesterday while looking for another part that the OEM oil cooler lines are actually available on Rockauto.com for only $22 each. They're hidden, though, since they're mis-classified under the "Heat and Air Conditioning" category as a "Heater Hose."


For what it’s worth it’s probably GM’s fault. They constantly mislabel stuff. Especially on the 2.0L.

So if rockauto is based on the real catalog (parts supplier, AcDelco catalog, etc…) it would probably carry over the mistake.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Snipesy said:


> For what it’s worth it’s probably GM’s fault. They constantly mislabel stuff. Especially on the 2.0L.
> 
> So if rockauto is based on the real catalog (parts supplier, AcDelco catalog, etc…) it would probably carry over the mistake.


If I were to guess, it was that the engineer who created the part might've pulled a really weird part description/name...and then you end up with something like that. There are a lot of names...but not always the right ones.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Diesel4Ever said:


> Like the other guy said, if it's not knocking it's probably the charge pipe which is a common failure item. You can get it replaced or use some zip ties to fasten it back down.
> 
> The GM part number is 95472182 and it's about $190 now, a 60% increase since I bought one 2 years ago.
> 
> If you like the car and want to keep it on the road, you should also do the oil pickup seal ASAP.


Just curious, what breaks on these?


----------



## Diesel4Ever (May 30, 2018)

BDCCruze said:


> Just curious, what breaks on these?


On my pipe the fastener broke. The mechanic fastened it down with zip ties until the replacement came.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Diesel4Ever said:


> On my pipe the fastener broke. The mechanic fastened it down with zip ties until the replacement came.


When you say fastener, do you mean the metal clip that has the 2 pieces of plastic on it? or something that is part of the pipe itself?

Anyone have pictures?


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

@Diesel4Ever - Is this the clip you are talking about?



https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10074312-0699.pdf



I think the part# is 13434668

We discussed that in this thread 2014 2.0 diesel too much boost?

I don't know if anyone here has bought just the clip to test it on the diesel, but I'm curious what part on your char broke (the clip or the TB).


----------



## Diesel4Ever (May 30, 2018)

BDCCruze said:


> @Diesel4Ever - Is this the clip you are talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don’t know exactly I didn’t repair it myself


----------



## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

MP81 said:


> I think the heater hose will last longer - stock replacement lines will eventually do the same thing.


That’s what I did when I replaced the cooler. Worry free. The oem ones disintegrated when I took them off. Reuse the fittings, fuel line and rvt…done

pickup seal is a bitch, but a must do. Don’t put it off


----------



## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

Diesel4Ever said:


> I don’t know exactly I didn’t repair it myself



If you guys are asking about the cooler clips, it is this.


















The clip shown on the other thread is the throttle body. Unless I mistook who was asking what. Wouldn’t be the first time


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Bvogt said:


> If you guys are asking about the cooler clips, it is this.


I thought he was talking about the charged cooler intake? Maybe I misread it.


----------



## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

BDCCruze said:


> I thought he was talking about the charged cooler intake? Maybe I misread it.


Lol, good. I’m not the only one confused 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Mw548 (Feb 16, 2017)

Well I’m up to 135k on it now no major issues. I didn’t put loctite on ac compressor bolts so that rattled loose and threw my serpentine belt other then that it’s been running great with no issues. One thing i have noticed it’s not a new problem but in cold weather if it’s not driven daily it has problems starting… have to go use the key cuz the remote start will draw battery dead before it pops off. I epoxied an oil pan heater to the bottom of the engine which if plugged in the car starts fine but cold start it struggles. Anybody else have this problem… and by cold weather i mean below 0


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

When was the last time you replaced your battery?


----------



## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

The charging strategy on these CTDs is programmed for fuel economy. The result is that the batteries never seem to get their full charge back. This is something I learned in the first few years of ownership.

the solution is to buy yourself a battery charger with an AGM program on it. Something with at least 10 amps output like the NOCO Genius 10. It’s currently the best value in an AGM compliant charger. And make a habit of placing that charger on your battery once every few weeks. You‘ll have no more starting problems. 

I have a bunch of chargers, including a CTEK POLAR, but it’s 4.3 amps and just can’t do much on these 80 amp hour batteries. So I use a NOCO Genius 26000 on my CTD. At 26 amperes output it normally runs for two hours at least once a month. But there have been times when it’s run for as much as four hours. For comparison, a 10 amp charger would take 2.6 times as long, my CTEK six times longer. Ain’t nobody got time for that.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Mw548 said:


> Well I’m up to 135k on it now no major issues. I didn’t put loctite on ac compressor bolts so that rattled loose and threw my serpentine belt other then that it’s been running great with no issues. One thing i have noticed it’s not a new problem but in cold weather if it’s not driven daily it has problems starting… have to go use the key cuz the remote start will draw battery dead before it pops off. I epoxied an oil pan heater to the bottom of the engine which if plugged in the car starts fine but cold start it struggles. Anybody else have this problem… and by cold weather i mean below 0


My car sits outside. I had very cold weather starting issues when my battery was 5 years old. I went the trickle charger route during that very cold week of -15F nights and made it through, then got through the rest of the winter without it. I replaced the battery sometime in 2019 and haven't had any issues since.


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Mw548 said:


> Well I’m up to 135k on it now no major issues. I didn’t put loctite on ac compressor bolts so that rattled loose and threw my serpentine belt other then that it’s been running great with no issues. One thing i have noticed it’s not a new problem but in cold weather if it’s not driven daily it has problems starting… have to go use the key cuz the remote start will draw battery dead before it pops off. I epoxied an oil pan heater to the bottom of the engine which if plugged in the car starts fine but cold start it struggles. Anybody else have this problem… and by cold weather i mean below 0


have you tested your glow plugs?

up until ~2yrs ago i had no trouble with cold starts down to -40, then all of a sudden no start, crank but no start

replaced glowplugs and battery and started using antigel at -20c for insurance, then had another no start, had to use the torpedo heater to warm the car up to get a start

then i installed coolant heater Coolant Heater (Cruze Gen1) and no problems since


----------

