# 2013 Cruze audio setup



## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Good spread sheet you will obtain help with a lot of advice soon .. remember your money your choice !
Wiring is lacking a bit too small on the power supply side . Other than this initial plan you are on the right track .. just do your self a favor and ignore the spam bot by the handle eco dave daaaa...the smuerfettes will show up soon enough they follow me because I am the master of the smurfettes ..


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Given the amount of money you want to spend this is what i would get if i were you.

Sound Stage: fronts
Image Dynamics CTX cs 6.5 They are 100 watts RMS for $170 on Amazon

Sound stage amp:
Hifonics ZRX500.2 This is a A/B powered amp that is CEA certified giving you 125w x2 at 4ohms $89 sonicelectronix

Rear doors:
LEAVE STOCK there is no reason to upgrade these. this will save you $160 by going with a less expensive amp and buying the speakers. 

Subwoofer:
Image Dynamics IDQ12 750 Watts RMS $251 sonicelectronix
Massive Audio N2 1ohm @800watts CEA Certified $160 sonicelectronix

Cables:
buy from Knukonceptz.com only should be $100 or less for all the cables you will need
These Are all HIGH Grade wires. dont go cheap here!

Speaker wire
power wire
ground 
RCAs with remote wire
inline fuze
terminals


Speaker baffles:
you will also need Speaker baffels as well id recomend talking to Xtremerevolution and have him make you some custom ones should be around $65 for a pair

You will also need to get the PAC-AA-GM44 $36 
PAC AA-GM44 Amplifier Integration Interface for Select 2010 and Up GM Vehicles : Amazon.com : Electronics

Box:
If you want a cheap $50 box thats on you.
But Xtremerevolution also makes Highgrade boxes.

given all of these options you will have only spent about $40 more than what you were planning on spending and this even included more things you over looked. 
Total cost around $910


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## queencitypr0 (Feb 16, 2011)

As far as the tools, a decent soldering iron and rosin core solder would be useful and recommended. I would also recommend purchasing a set of trim panel removal tools. A 5 piece set can be had for around 15 on amazon, and will keep trim pieces from being scratched. You will also need a size T-20 Torx bit to remove the door panels. Also a 7mm socket to remove the radio and factory speakers. I doubt the power pack will fit anywhere in the dash. Its already hard enough to fit the pac LOC in there. There is a thread on here somewhere on removing the radio, you just have to search. Good luck with the build!


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Good start guys


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

tecollins1 said:


> Given the amount of money you want to spend this is what i would get if i were you.
> 
> Sound Stage: fronts
> Image Dynamics CTX cs 6.5 They are 100 watts RMS for $170 on Amazon
> ...


I would change only two things on this cart, and just for a limited time.

Grab the gt-2300 amp ($200) and gt-475 amp ($138) from Techronics.com. They are on a stupid good sale right now since they are discontinued and Boston Acoustics has decided to stop making car audio equipment. You'll need a few more feet of wiring, but it won't be a big deal. It's really hard to pass up deals like this. You would want the D2 aka Dual-2ohm version of the sub. 

I could make you a box for $195 plus shipping. It would take a month to get there via USPS parcel post, but it wouldn't be very expensive. 

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

brian v said:


> Good spread sheet you will obtain help with a lot of advice soon .. remember your money your choice !
> Wiring is lacking a bit too small on the power supply side . Other than this initial plan you are on the right track .. just do your self a favor and ignore the spam bot by the handle eco dave daaaa...the smuerfettes will show up soon enough they follow me because I am the master of the smurfettes ..


...You lost me there at the end but thank you...



tecollins1 said:


> Given the amount of money you want to spend this is what i would get if i were you.
> 
> Sound Stage: fronts
> Image Dynamics CTX cs 6.5 They are 100 watts RMS for $170 on Amazon
> ...


For the speakers I'll be sticking to alpine, the rest is mostly flexible. I did upgrade them though from what i was looking at.



tecollins1 said:


> Cables:
> buy from Knukonceptz.com only should be $100 or less for all the cables you will need
> These Are all HIGH Grade wires. dont go cheap here!
> 
> ...


Updated! Also When wiring the power cable I wired the power cable to my fuse box in my last car and it worked fine. Yes, no, Maybe so?



tecollins1 said:


> Speaker baffles:
> you will also need Speaker baffels as well id recomend talking to Xtremerevolution and have him make you some custom ones should be around $65 for a pair




How will these do? They should fit the speakers i chose. Also will the windows hit these?



tecollins1 said:


> You will also need to get the PAC-AA-GM44 $36
> PAC AA-GM44 Amplifier Integration Interface for Select 2010 and Up GM Vehicles : Amazon.com : Electronics


Gonna be a noob here and say what are these for?



tecollins1 said:


> Box:
> If you want a cheap $50 box thats on you.
> But Xtremerevolution also makes Highgrade boxes.


I find no need for a high end Box right now, but please do recommend a good inexpensive box if you could.



queencitypr0 said:


> As far as the tools, a decent soldering iron and rosin core solder would be useful and recommended. I would also recommend purchasing a set of trim panel removal tools. A 5 piece set can be had for around 15 on amazon, and will keep trim pieces from being scratched. You will also need a size T-20 Torx bit to remove the door panels. Also a 7mm socket to remove the radio and factory speakers. I doubt the power pack will fit anywhere in the dash. Its already hard enough to fit the pac LOC in there. There is a thread on here somewhere on removing the radio, you just have to search. Good luck with the build!


Thanks for the info about the tool =D



XtremeRevolution said:


> I would change only two things on this cart, and just for a limited time.
> 
> Grab the gt-2300 amp ($200) and gt-475 amp ($138) from Techronics.com. They are on a stupid good sale right now since they are discontinued and Boston Acoustics has decided to stop making car audio equipment. You'll need a few more feet of wiring, but it won't be a big deal. It's really hard to pass up deals like this. You would want the D2 aka Dual-2ohm version of the sub.


Really good deal! I do like the idea of a left and right sub...eh eh? Got any good ideas for subs =D? Any good ideas for Amp placement for the speaker Amp?

List of sites added. For the diffrent sites provided, as long as the site's shipping rate isn't high for Hawaii I'm willing to deveate from crutchfield and it's free Hawaii shipping.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

okimdone said:


> How will these do? They should fit the speakers i chose. Also will the windows hit these?


EDIT: Do not use those. They are just pieces of foam, and don't do anything other than protect your speakers from getting water/dirt damage, which since your speakers are installed into the door of your car, its hard to believe that water/dirt should get in side there at large enough amounts to damage your speakers. They're simply a waste IMO, but then again, I would wait for tecollins or XR to comment as they could serve some purpose after all.



okimdone said:


> Gonna be a noob here and say what are these for?


It allows you to plug the RCA cables that come from your amp into your stereo so you can actually use your new speakers.



okimdone said:


> I find no need for a high end Box right now, but please do recommend a good inexpensive box if you could.


Here's the thing. Low end, cheap boxes will maybe last you a year or two, and if you accidentally drop it, or drop something heavy on it, its probably going to break and be un-useable. Where as a box from Xtreme will probably out last your car, or at least your subs, not to mention the extra sound deadening liner XR puts in to reduce distortion and make sure your subs project outwards. Also, why waste $50 today buying crap when you can wait another couple of weeks and spend $200 for something that will actually be worth the money?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

okimdone said:


> ...You lost me there at the end but thank you...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm going to try to respond to everything you just said in one post. 

Don't take offense to this, but you came here asking for advice. Given the parts you chose, it can be inferred that you aren't exactly an expert in the matter, but I am. I am not a self-proclaimed expert though, and everyone on this forum will vouch for me. I have designed countless systems. While I don't expect you to take what I have to say as gold, I am giving you the advice that I am in order to help you get the best results for your money. I and Terry gain nothing from the advice we give you. Keep that in mind when you respond with "no thanks, I'd rather stick with Alpine." If Alpine made a component set that we thought would be worth recommending, why didn't we recommend it? There are some very good reasons to our decision. 

Regarding the baffles, the items you posted will not serve the purpose you need. The factory speakers are physically molded into the adapters that mount to the doors, so you need to buy new adapters. Your option is the $10 adapters (that's $10 per pair) from crutchfield, which are made of flimsy plastic and not guaranteed to fit, seal well, or not buzz or vibrate, or you can buy my adapters/baffles (note, a baffle is simply the plane onto which the speaker is mounted) for $65 shipped to anywhere in the US. 

The PAC AA-GM44 is a line-out converter that requires no wire cutting or splicing of your factory wires. It leaves no permanent modifications. 

There's no such thing as a good inexpensive sub box. Some of these boxes cost less to ship to your door than my materials cost me to build something of the same air space! You get what you pay for. A high quality custom box built at an audio shop will run you in the $350-$600 range, depending on how good they are. You can see why I charge what I do in my sub box thread. It's a sticky in the electronics section. 

There is absolutely no point to having a "left and right" sub. Sub frequencies are so mono, not stereo, so it doesn't matter if you have 1, or 2, or 3, or 10. What does matter is the sound quality and build quality of that given sub. One great sub is always better than two crappy subs, even if shipping isn't free.


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I'm going to try to respond to everything you just said in one post.
> 
> Don't take offense to this, but you came here asking for advice. Given the parts you chose, it can be inferred that you aren't exactly an expert in the matter


You caught me! :eusa_clap:



XtremeRevolution said:


> , but I am. I am not a self-proclaimed expert though, and everyone on this forum will vouch for me. I have designed countless systems. While I don't expect you to take what I have to say as gold, I am giving you the advice that I am in order to help you get the best results for your money. I and Terry gain nothing from the advice we give you. Keep that in mind when you respond with "no thanks, I'd rather stick with Alpine." If Alpine made a component set that we thought would be worth recommending, why didn't we recommend it? There are some very good reasons to our decision.
> 
> Regarding the baffles, the items you posted will not serve the purpose you need. The factory speakers are physically molded into the adapters that mount to the doors, so you need to buy new adapters. Your option is the $10 adapters (that's $10 per pair) from crutchfield, which are made of flimsy plastic and not guaranteed to fit, seal well, or not buzz or vibrate, or you can buy my adapters/baffles (note, a baffle is simply the plane onto which the speaker is mounted) for $65 shipped to anywhere in the US.
> 
> ...


Completely understand, I'm going with what you said for all the components now. Now for the Box and Baffles I'll have to pass for now. I'll give the low end Box and baffles a shot for now. If they are bothersome to my ears I hope I'll be able to come to you to get it done right but for now I wish to hear it with my own ears. I'll be updating my first post tomorrow as for now it's 1 in the morning and I just went through a lot of learning about gauge's and amps of current.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Just remember you do not have to buy all of this stuff at once. Buy it when you have the money and especially when its a killer deal like those two amps that X recomended. Buy the right parts and build it over time. Bassically do it right the first time and do it yourself. My build took me 6 months or so to buy all the componets. Ill tell you now it was well worth the wait.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

For your wire that you picked in your OP.
*Powerground wire-* Good choice on the OFC
*
Speaker wire-* im not sold on the twisted speaker cable just yet (more resistance do to more distsance to travel per foot) Id just get the Kord speaker wire. 16ga for speakers and 14ga for sub.

*RCA-* yeah that will do just fine. the 6m is refering to meters. so that would be 19.6 Feet in length
*
inlinefuse-* that should do. bassically you want to addd up all the fuses that are on your amp/s. so if you have two 30 amp fuses on your amplifier then you will need a 60 amp fuse. 
*
terminal-* if you are using the stock battery; then i dont think we have screw in terminals... but what i can offer is to solder on some terminals on for you and apply thick heat shrink tube. For cables this thick soldering is a must. no matter how much you crimp the terms they will always come loose over time. Mine did in just a couple months. GO to *post #2 *and you will see what i do.


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> For your wire that you picked in your OP.
> *Powerground wire-* Good choice on the OFC
> *
> Speaker wire-* im not sold on the twisted speaker cable just yet (more resistance do to more distsance to travel per foot) Id just get the Kord speaker wire. 16ga for speakers and 14ga for sub.
> ...


Massively updated my wiring along with a diagram now, please check it out :1poke:


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

Sorry for all the questions and asking you guys to check over what I've...you've...we've?...:biglaugha:come up with. I hope I'm not bothering you too much, just been having a little too much fun learning this stuff.

So I'm close to buying this setup but i just need a few few question's answered if you could 

For the rear doors, where should i put the tweeter? I really don't know what to do with this.

How should i connect the Sub's AMP's RCA cables? Do i use a splitter off the RCA cables for the rear? Wish GM would just use receivers with RCA jacks :dry: and a sub out...Does my receiver have a sub out :icon_scratch:

Because I'm running the 4 ch amp from the trunk I'll have to run new speaker wires to the new speakers correct? Or was that already established the moment i use the PAC?


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

okimdone said:


> Sorry for all the questions and asking you guys to check over what I've...you've...we've?...:biglaugha:come up with. I hope I'm not bothering you too much, just been having a little too much fun learning this stuff.
> 
> So I'm close to buying this setup but i just need a few few question's answered if you could
> 
> ...


Don't feel bad asking questions, I've been asking XR questions non-stop for the past month or so, so if anyone should feel bad it should be me haha.

As for your questions...

Rear doors do not house tweeters, just door speakers. Your tweeters replace the speakers in your A pillars [The trim piece that starts at your dash and goes up to the headliner and has a little speaker grille where it connects to the dash]

As for RCA cables, I don't know, Tecollins and XR can help you with that better than I. However I do know that there is no sub out on your receiver, you use the PAC to install the subs to your system.

Yes, you will have to run new speaker wires to the new speakers because they will run off your second amp [not the one for the subs]. My suggestion would be to follow the existing wires and then replacing them with the new wires so that they tie into the existing bundle and are neat/clean.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

The PAC's harness basically splits the speaker wires. One side goes to the stock speakers the other goes to the PAC. So you can actually upgrade the front speakers; amplify them and leave the rear ones stock. The rear ones will still get power from the head unit. 

So if you want to add a sub in this set up just run the RCAs off the rear channel and leave the stock speakers/wires in place.

But if you are still planning on replacing rear speakers; then you will run everything as you are amplifying them.
Then at your amplifiers add 2 "Y" rca splitters from rear channels to your sub's amp.

Rear door 
If you still are set on rear door speakers then you need a coaxial set not a component set.
http://www.soundsgreatusa.com/servlet/the-2689/CTX65-Image-Dynamics-6.5"/Detail


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## APCruze (Mar 7, 2013)

okimdone said:


> For the rear doors, where should i put the tweeter? I really don't know what to do with this.


if you want to add rear tweeters, I just added some photos of how I did. The pioneers that I bought came with a cover that I put a few splices in it, grinder out some of the rear door plastic and made it twist in. I then added a little glue to make sure it would not twist out. I am extremely satisfied with what this added to the rear seat and will be doing a write up on it soon. Also adding Dynamat to the rear deck.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

APCruze said:


> if you want to add rear tweeters, I just added some photos of how I did. The pioneers that I bought came with a cover that I put a few splices in it, grinder out some of the rear door plastic and made it twist in. I then added a little glue to make sure it would not twist out. I am extremely satisfied with what this added to the rear seat and will be doing a write up on it soon. Also adding Dynamat to the rear deck.
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/members/9792-apcruze-album639-door-speakers-picture13203-adding-tweeters-rear-speaker.html[IMG]
> 
> ...


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## APCruze (Mar 7, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> The reason he was asking about tweeters is because on his wishlist he put down a component set instead of coaxial. Mostly because no one gave him a recommended speaker to put in the rear doors.
> 
> Now I don't know where you installed your tweeters since links aren't working but Andrei and myself have tried this last year and the results were very bad.
> 
> ...


Sorry about the links, I fixed them though. I put them in the rear door speaker covers attached to the rear door so they are directly infront of the 6.5. I wanted to use a crossover style speaker to get more out of it and got what almost what I wanted. Could still use alittle more volume but was able to adjust it with the fade and it is 100% better than OEM. 

I didnt know the suggestion was based off him not being recomended a rear speaker, but was trying to give an option if he wanted to go the way of a tweeter. Enless you have alot of tools and experience with Dremels, I would suggest a single speaker with tweeters built in instead of a seperate tweeter, but I wanted the cross over setup. Hopefully its atleast more options for people now though.

it took about 20 minutes to grind the plastic and put speakers in, but a lot of time lining it up to figure out how I was going to do it and where I wanted everything. All in all worth it though.


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

APCruze said:


> Sorry about the links, I fixed them though. I put them in the rear door speaker covers attached to the rear door so they are directly infront of the 6.5. I wanted to use a crossover style speaker to get more out of it and got what almost what I wanted. Could still use alittle more volume but was able to adjust it with the fade and it is 100% better than OEM.
> 
> I didnt know the suggestion was based off him not being recomended a rear speaker, but was trying to give an option if he wanted to go the way of a tweeter. Enless you have alot of tools and experience with Dremels, I would suggest a single speaker with tweeters built in instead of a seperate tweeter, but I wanted the cross over setup. Hopefully its atleast more options for people now though.
> 
> it took about 20 minutes to grind the plastic and put speakers in, but a lot of time lining it up to figure out how I was going to do it and where I wanted everything. All in all worth it though.



So i did that with my tweeters in my 2000 Blazer for both rear and front speakers, but i actually put holes in the doors and trim to do it. Looked amazing and worked amazing. The only problem is that if you ever sell your vehicle you can't take your speakers out, otherwise you'll have a hole...Plus i wasn't in the military at that point and had access to my fathers tools. Along with this being a new car...Okay to the point, I Don't plan on doing any irreversible custom work unless I determine I'll ride this car till it dies...

Other than that updated my list.

So...to split from the PAC then run and extra RCA cable OR split off the RCA cable at the end and place the AMPs where the splitters can reach both...

Also it would be awesome if XtremeRevolution could make some custom 6X9 brackets that could fit a 6.5" w/ tweeter on or even a 6" w/ tweeter. That would be sweet! Then everyone could get some good component speakers in those 6X9's if they wanted! Just an idea... unforchantly i won't be buying as it involves cutting the carpet =(...


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

okimdone said:


> Also it would be awesome if XtremeRevolution could make some custom 6X9 brackets that could fit a 6.5" w/ tweeter on or even a 6" w/ tweeter. That would be sweet! Then everyone could get some good component speakers in those 6X9's if they wanted! Just an idea... unforchantly i won't be buying as it involves cutting the carpet =(...


He will do it. He's making custom baffles for my front doors since I'm using 7" speakers that will sit on top of the door trim and have the cone/mounting ring exposed. I don't see why he cant make custom baffles for the rear 6x9 deck. The only thing is that there will be no set price, being a custom baffle build/piece. And he will have to figure out how to make it work, so expect it to take longer, or be put on the back burner to sub boxes and such.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

okimdone said:


> Other than that updated my list.
> 
> So...to split from the PAC then run and extra RCA cable OR split off the RCA cable at the end and place the AMPs where the splitters can reach both...
> 
> Also it would be awesome if XtremeRevolution could make some custom 6X9 brackets that could fit a 6.5" w/ tweeter on or even a 6" w/ tweeter. That would be sweet! Then everyone could get some good component speakers in those 6X9's if they wanted! Just an idea... unforchantly i won't be buying as it involves cutting the carpet =(...


Just split them in the trunk.

I don't think he would do that because he's always talking a bout how reflected sound waves sound like crap. Meaning they would be reflecting off the glass. 
That and the fact the speakers would be completely "off axis" 
Speakers are Sopose to be directed towards your ears. (On axis)




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## EcoDave (Mar 7, 2013)

okimdone said:


> So...to split from the PAC then run and extra RCA cable OR split off the RCA cable at the end and place the AMPs where the splitters can reach both...


The PAC has 4 RCA Outputs, Two front channels, Two Rear Channels. I don't see why you would need to split the RCA's unless you will running more than 2 amps.





okimdone said:


> Also it would be awesome if XtremeRevolution could make some custom 6X9 brackets that could fit a 6.5" w/ tweeter on or even a 6" w/ tweeter. That would be sweet! Then everyone could get some good component speakers in those 6X9's if they wanted! Just an idea... unforchantly i won't be buying as it involves cutting the carpet =(...


I think he would advise against it but we will have to see what he has to say about this idea.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

EcoDave said:


> The PAC has 4 RCA Outputs, Two front channels, Two Rear Channels. I don't see why you would need to split the RCA's unless you will running more than 2 amps.


Because I think he still wants to add rear amplified speakers.
So a 4ch amp will need to be used for the doors/tweets and he will need to split the rear channels so he can add the subwoofer amp.




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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> Just split them in the trunk.
> 
> I don't think he would do that because he's always talking a bout how reflected sound waves sound like crap. Meaning they would be reflecting off the glass.
> That and the fact the speakers would be completely "off axis"
> Speakers are Supposed to be directed towards your ears. (On axis)


Okay that makes sense, never thought of that. Throw my idea out.



tecollins1 said:


> Because I think he still wants to add rear amplified speakers.
> So a 4ch amp will need to be used for the doors/tweets and he will need to split the rear channels so he can add the subwoofer amp.



Correct. To my ears just one pair of speakers replaced doesn't sound as good as replacing both.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

> Correct. To my ears just one pair of speakers replaced doesn't sound as good as replacing both.


Yeah I understand your concern. I thought the same thing. But you have to understand that your fronts are going to give you all the sound you will need. This is why i referred the fronts as your sound stage. 

The rear doors are only there for your passengers. Keeping them stock with the upgraded sound stage and sub in the trunk they wouldn't even tell a difference. Also the fact they are behind you and are so low, they will be muffled by the bench and the bucket seats. so not alot of bang, for your bucks.

Just so you know I don't have speakers in my rears.I have 6 1/2 subs in there and I actually ran without rears for almost 3 months and you can't tell a difference.

I believe XR doesn't have any rears installed either but not 100% on that. 

If you want t save some moola don't buy them but if you want to,just to say ya did and have the cash. Then more power to ya.


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> Yeah I understand your concern. I thought the same thing. But you have to understand that your fronts are going to give you all the sound you will need. This is why i referred the fronts as your sound stage.
> 
> The rear doors are only there for your passengers. Keeping them stock with the upgraded sound stage and sub in the trunk they wouldn't even tell a difference. Also the fact they are behind you and are so low, they will be muffled by the bench and the bucket seats. so not alot of bang, for your bucks.
> 
> ...


Well...for the sake of money I'll do without the rears at first. If I really find a problem with it I'll get them. Now while there are no rear speakers how should I run the 4ch amp?

RMS:
4 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan. 
Bridged, 4 ohms: 225 watts x 2 chan. 

Those are the available modes but I suppose I will need to stick with keeping it unbridged considering it would put out too much power at bridged.

So tomorrow I'll be getting some exact measurements for my cables and buying them so if there is anything wrong with my plan please inform me!

I also need any recommendations on whether i should do the ABC's or the Big 3. Does max amperes at 140 seems like they need any upgrades?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

You don't need to upgrade the alternator unless you start pushing a lot of power. Doesn't seem to me like you are. I would recommend the big 3 wiring upgrade though, even if you weren't going to be adding a sound system. 

Sorry if I'm coming in a bit late, but don't bother with rear deck speakers. Put a sub in a box. Trust me on that. You'll get much better results.

Making an adapter for a rear 6.5" deck speaker in the existing 6.5" hole is more complicated than it sounds. Look underneath and you'll see why. It's not exactly a flat surface.


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

AMPs ordered


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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

So everything has been ordered but the Big 3 kit. I'll be doing that soon. I think this will be my last question though and that is how will i be connecting the 0/1 power wire to my battery? A picture would be really helpful =D


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)




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## okimdone (Apr 20, 2013)

Thanks for the Pics!

Anyone that has the PAC AA-GM44 could you please help 

Now about this poorly documented PAC adapter and my...so so, audio knowledge.
As far as i've read the wires for the output are like this:
Blue = Remote line (Optional if i use add-a-circuit instead?)
Yellow = 12v Power (Optional if i don't use remote?)
Blue/Black = Ground (Optional if i don't use remote?)
Black(coming out of the center of RCA cables) = "Optional audio ground(ties RCA [-] conductors together, also provides audio reference ground necessary for some installations)" is what their document says.

So broken down.

Do I need to use the Blue, Yellow, and Blue/Black cables if I use a add-a-circuit instead?

Should i ground the Black cable? Does that give it better audio quality/less noise?


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## APCruze (Mar 7, 2013)

Here is a write up I did with the PAC AA-GM44 

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/57-how-library/12322-no-splicing-amplifier-subwoofer-tutorial.html

Blue = Remote line (Optional if i use add-a-circuit instead?) correct you can use the blue line or add a circuit.
Yellow = 12v Power (Optional if i don't use remote?) this is what the PAC is powered to convert the signal, it must be hooked up. 
Blue/Black = Ground (Optional if i don't use remote?) same answer as above, it must be connected provides ground to power the device.
Black(coming out of the center of RCA cables) = "Optional audio ground(ties RCA [-] conductors together, also provides audio reference ground necessary for some installations)" is what their document says. I did not hook this one up either.


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