# Transmission cooler lines leaking



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

all ive ever used is the barbs (shown in your link) with hose clamp around it (on my jeeps, or automatic semis at work) no failures afterwards.

have used those compression fittings (shown in your link) for air lines.


----------



## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

I've used something like this to connect to the radiator. Mine is a different brand, and I got it from Rockauto. 

Derale Snap-In Radiator Adapter Fitting for GM Derale Accessories and Parts D13035

I just had a shop replace my lines on the 1.4L because they were leaking so bad, and due to weather I didn't have a nice place to work. 

The key is going to be connecting to the transmission side. If it's like a standard GM transmission the connection at the transmission is going to be a special flange type connection. I'm guessing cutting the tube and going compression to hose barb might be the best solution. 

Definitely better than just putting the hose over the pipe with clamps. There's a little pressure there that I'd be concerned with.


----------



## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> I've used something like this to connect to the radiator. Mine is a different brand, and I got it from Rockauto.
> 
> Derale Snap-In Radiator Adapter Fitting for GM Derale Accessories and Parts D13035
> 
> ...


Thanks, yeah I know some guys just cut the metal barb and shove the hose over the flare with two hose clamps but like you said I'd like to do a little better. If it was a 10+ year old beater that's exactly what I'd do though


----------



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

You didn't mention current mileage but the cooler lines are a powertrain covered component.

Rob


----------



## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Robby said:


> You didn't mention current mileage but the cooler lines are a powertrain covered component.
> 
> Rob


Are they? I did some digging and got conflicting answers. That's good to know. I suppose I could call the dealer and ask. I'm only at 41K

At the same time, if they are just going to replace them with the same thing that will leak anyways, I'd be interested in just permanently fixing it myself now.


----------



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

I know in cold climates the transmission cooler lines on the Duramax trucks have leakage issues and many manufacturers offer aftermarket kits to replace/repair them. I have the Fleece kit on my Duramax truck that was leaking pretty bad after 363,XXX miles!!!

Maybe they will offer something similar for the Cruze


----------



## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

Cooler lines are NOT covered unless under 36,000 miles. Went thru this about 3 months ago with the dealer, not covered 37,000 miles. They wanted almost $500 to fix this problem for me. HA HA i laughed at them. Where the two lines enter the transmission they are connected together with a bolt holding them in. The best way to fix this is to cut the metal lines with a tubing cutter on both ends and replace the hose. Hose clamps over the end of the hose works just fine. I use 2 at each end just to be safe as the cooler lines are not under high pressure. Just enough to circulate the fluid. Really an easy fix.


----------



## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

Lines and hoses are not covered unless under 36k miles


----------



## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Thanks guys. I'm going to fix this next oil change in the summer


----------



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Does anybody have a picture of the leaking lines they can post here?


----------



## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

Don't have a picture but they are more like seeping than leaking. They are seeping from the crimp fitting, where the steel line is crimped to the flexible hose. Gm's outsourcing for lines and hoses has been problematic over the last 10 or so years.


----------



## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)




----------



## NHRA (Oct 12, 2014)

See where the label is on the hose, it was seeping from in between the hose and crimp.


----------



## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Yup yup and yup! When you take the plastic panel off on the bottom you'll be staring right at them. I'll take a pic when I get around to it.


----------



## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

I believe what you are describing is the same location that the Duramax trucks leak from... Merchant Automotive makes a kit for the trucks that replaces the crimped sections with screw on and new hoses. If they are the same diameter two of them might work for Cruze owners... From what the MA guys tell me it is much more of an issue in cold climates than down south where the weather is more stable...


----------



## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Just looked under there. Add me to the "leaking transmission cooler lines" club.


----------



## edster (Sep 4, 2012)

I have the same problem with my 2012. After looking at Chris' reply, I'm wondering would 3/8 fuel injection line hose and hose clamps work ? Assuming I had enough room to utilize the original line bracket.


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

edster said:


> I have the same problem with my 2012. After looking at Chris' reply, I'm wondering would 3/8 fuel injection line hose and hose clamps work ? Assuming I had enough room to utilize the original line bracket.


No.

You can have a decent quality hydraulic hose made for you at somewhere like Tractor Supply Company, though.


----------



## HarleyGTP (Dec 14, 2013)

Has anyone replaced these themselves? How much has to be removed?


----------



## aflady0512 (Nov 14, 2016)

I think I have a transmission leak myself. The weather has been brutally cold this week.


----------



## Cedar (Dec 13, 2016)

Chris Tobin said:


> *I believe what you are describing is the same location that the Duramax trucks leak from.*.. Merchant Automotive makes a kit for the trucks that replaces the crimped sections with screw on and new hoses. If they are the same diameter two of them might work for Cruze owners... From what the MA guys tell me it is much more of an issue in cold climates than down south where the weather is more stable...


Yep I just changed those hoses just before Christmas, those were a bit more technical than I think the cruze will be...


jblackburn said:


> No.
> 
> You can have a decent quality hydraulic hose made for you at somewhere like Tractor Supply Company, though.


So how are you making the connections?


----------



## riker (Jan 25, 2013)

My 2013 Chevy Cruze transmission lines are leaking and it going to cost almost 400 dollars to fix it. And it only has 50k miles on it I have no clue why I have to pay that much and considering this is the second problem with the transmission that I have had. Any help would be great. Is their a class action lawsuit against gm?


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

riker said:


> My 2013 Chevy Cruze transmission lines are leaking and it going to cost almost 400 dollars to fix it. And it only has 50k miles on it I have no clue why I have to pay that much and considering this is the second problem with the transmission that I have had. Any help would be great. Is their a class action lawsuit against gm?


Has your drivetrain 100k warranty ran out?


----------



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

riker said:


> My 2013 Chevy Cruze transmission lines are leaking and it going to cost almost 400 dollars to fix it. And it only has 50k miles on it I have no clue why I have to pay that much and considering this is the second problem with the transmission that I have had. Any help would be great. Is their a class action lawsuit against gm?


The powertrain warranty (5 years 100,000 miles) would cover this, so I guess your warranty has expired by time.
No, there is no 'class action suit' for a machine being a machine and had a GM extended warranty been purchased at time of delivery this would have been covered as well.

Cooler line seepage (all manufacturers) is not a uncommon failure and has been a trouble point as long as motor vehicles have used a rubber to aluminum connection (i'll guess about thirty years) and is more common in the very cold areas.

I would suggest stopping by a independent shop (trans shop) for a estimate as well.....the estimate you have is rather high IMO.

Rob


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Transmission cooler lines are exclusively called out as NOT being part of the powertrain warranty coverage. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## riker (Jan 25, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> Has your drivetrain 100k warranty ran out?


100k? You means 35 years 60k there is no 100k


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

riker said:


> 100k? You means 35 years 60k there is no 100k


2013s were 5 years or 100k mile coverage. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## riker (Jan 25, 2013)

Robby said:


> The powertrain warranty (5 years 100,000 miles) would cover this, so I guess your warranty has expired by time.
> No, there is no 'class action suit' for a machine being a machine and had a GM extended warranty been purchased at time of delivery this would have been covered as well.
> 
> Cooler line seepage (all manufacturers) is not a uncommon failure and has been a trouble point as long as motor vehicles have used a rubber to aluminum connection (i'll guess about thirty years) and is more common in the very cold areas.
> ...


. There is no 5 Years 100k warranty there was a 5 year 60k and I only have 50k on it but the 5years ran out a few days ago
Plus they said the lines are only covered 3 years 36k


----------



## riker (Jan 25, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> 2013s were 5 years or 100k mile coverage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


 No they had a 3 year bumper to bumper 36k and a 5 year 60k. You can look it up and see.


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

riker said:


> No they had a 3 year bumper to bumper 36k and a 5 year 60k. You can look it up and see.


Nope. 5/100. 2016 was the first year for the 5/60 coverage. 

Regardless cooler lines are not covered under powertrain coverage. 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


----------



## riker (Jan 25, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> Nope. 5/100. 2016 was the first year for the 5/60 coverage.
> 
> Regardless cooler lines are not covered under powertrain coverage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


. You are right I apologize but my 5 years ran out a few days ago
But he told me lines and hoses are only covered until 36,00


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> 2013s were 5 years or 100k mile coverage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Whoops I had a typo...who wants to keep a cruze for 35 years? Lol


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> Nope. 5/100. 2016 was the first year for the 5/60 coverage.
> 
> Regardless cooler lines are not covered under powertrain coverage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


That’s really bogus, I kinda think the warranty is close to a joke and just a marketing thing. On the diesel most of the lousy emission system isn’t covered either.


----------



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> Nope. 5/100. 2016 was the first year for the 5/60 coverage.
> 
> Regardless cooler lines are not covered under powertrain coverage.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


Did something change?
My dealer still replaces them as a powertrain claim (last time it came up in discussopn.....maybe in December 17)

Rob


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Robby said:


> Did something change?
> My dealer still replaces them as a powertrain claim (last time it came up in discussopn.....maybe in December 17)
> 
> Rob


Always been written that way.

Exclusions: Exclusions from the powertrain coverage include* cooling lines*, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring, and electrical connectors. Also excluded are the clutch and pressure plate, as well as any Transmission Control Module and/or module programming

http://www.chevrolet.com/owners/warranty


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

jblackburn said:


> Always been written that way.
> 
> Exclusions: Exclusions from the powertrain coverage include* cooling lines*, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring, and electrical connectors. Also excluded are the clutch and pressure plate, as well as any Transmission Control Module and/or module programming
> 
> http://www.chevrolet.com/owners/warranty


So what happens for those that have a transmission line leaking and don’t know or don’t get it fixed and get low on fluid and leads to transmission failure?


----------



## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

IndyDiesel said:


> So what happens for those that have a transmission line leaking and don’t know or don’t get it fixed and get low on fluid and leads to transmission failure?


In my experience they don't lose THAT much fluid from the lines...more of a slow seep than anything. A leaking axle seal or something of the sort would be a much quicker fluid loss. I reckon you'd start to see weird shift behavior long before outright failure.


----------



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Interesting.......I'll dig a bit to see how they push it through.

Rob


----------



## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

IndyDiesel said:


> So what happens for those that have a transmission line leaking and don’t know or don’t get it fixed and get low on fluid and leads to transmission failure?


Id imagine they would probably say “your transmission failed due to low fluid level due to leaking cooler lines and because of that we will not be covering the transmission under warranty”

Pretty much every vehicle brand out there will do everything in their power to get out of covering big ticket stuff like transmissions under warranty. In their defense, with the example you posted, if you let your transmission leak so much oil out of it without getting it fixed that it destroys the transmission, that’s on you.


----------



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

justin13703 said:


> Id imagine they would probably say “your transmission failed due to low fluid level due to leaking cooler lines and because of that we will not be covering the transmission under warranty”
> 
> Pretty much every vehicle brand out there will do everything in their power to get out of covering big ticket stuff like transmissions under warranty. In their defense, with the example you posted, if you let your transmission leak so much oil out of it without getting it fixed that it destroys the transmission, that’s on you.


I hear you and makes sense, my response would be a da*n dipstick in the transmission and I will check it periodically. They didn’t put a dipstick in it which makes zero sense. They build them to fail so we buy another car.


----------



## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

IndyDiesel said:


> I hear you and makes sense, my response would be a da*n dipstick in the transmission and I will check it periodically. They didn’t put a dipstick in it which makes zero sense. They build them to fail so we buy another car.


Yeah most new stuff doesn’t have a dipstick because they are supposed to be “lifetime fill” which is a joke. Yeah, the lifetime it has until it blows up from old fluid. “Lifetime” is a vague measurement. It could blow at 101k miles, and they would say well that was its lifetime sorry lol

It does have a way to check the level, but they pretty much design it to be such a pain in the ass that the general consumer will just have it done at the dealership. Vehicles are becoming less and less friendly to work on yourself every year. I bet it won’t be long before something as simple as an oil change will require so much specialized stuff that it will have to be done at the dealership.


----------



## ajkup (Jan 21, 2018)

I just purchased a 2015 Diesel, how do you go about check the fluids on these things?


justin13703 said:


> Yeah most new stuff doesn’t have a dipstick because they are supposed to be “lifetime fill” which is a joke. Yeah, the lifetime it has until it blows up from old fluid. “Lifetime” is a vague measurement. It could blow at 101k miles, and they would say well that was its lifetime sorry lol
> 
> It does have a way to check the level, but they pretty much design it to be such a pain in the ass that the general consumer will just have it done at the dealership. Vehicles are becoming less and less friendly to work on yourself every year. I bet it won’t be long before something as simple as an oil change will require so much specialized stuff that it will have to be done at the dealership.


----------



## TX CTD (Oct 24, 2014)

There’s a write up about changing the fluid in the diesel how to section. Checking it is a fairly involved process that requires running it to a certain temp and letting the excess fluid drain out of a pipe that’s part of the drain plug. 

General conensus around here here seems to be to measure what is drained out and replace it with that amount and a call it good because most folks don’t have access to the equipment required to check. 

I did the drain and refill with Amsoil last spring and everything has nice a smooth for about 25000 miles.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I noticed mine lines are wet while working on the car the other day. How easy is it to change these out? I'll probably do it next time I change my fluid (in about 25k miles) since I'll have the tray off.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> I noticed mine lines are wet while working on the car the other day. How easy is it to change these out? I'll probably do it next time I change my fluid (in about 25k miles) since I'll have the tray off.


Not at all easy. Took my buddy and I about 4 hours to do them, and that was with the assistance of a lift. I'm still convinced the space in the engine bay is smaller than the engine/trans itself.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Not at all easy. Took my buddy and I about 4 hours to do them, and that was with the assistance of a lift. I'm still convinced the space in the engine bay is smaller than the engine/trans itself.


What's so difficult about it?


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

they leaking at the compression fittings? just repair with the barbs and clamps as shown 1st page, lasts forever


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> What's so difficult about it?


Lack of access. Especially where the spring clips go at the radiator fittings. Trans side is super easy.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Lack of access. Especially where the spring clips go at the radiator fittings. Trans side is super easy.


Similar to this?


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

boraz said:


> they leaking at the compression fittings? just repair with the barbs and clamps as shown 1st page, lasts forever


I think you're right about this. I'd prefer to put the OEM part back on but if it's going to take me 3 hours to tear it all apart I don't want to do it again in another 50k miles. I just want it to look OEM and not use screw style clamps. Maybe I'll go with a wire style clamps that you see on radiator hoses to give it a more professional looking finish.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

You'll never see the parts again, so I wouldn't worry too much about how it looks. They really are buried in there.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

My lines are getting bad. I went ahead and ordered the part. It looks like this is an updated part number, so hopefully it fixes any issues with the crimps failing. I am due in 15k for a transmission fluid drain/fill, so I will just take the day and do both at the same time. Not doing much these days anyways lol.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

BDCCruze said:


> Similar to this?


Whoops, I never responded to that one - yes, pretty similar. One bolt holds both lines into the trans. Very easy to get to.



BDCCruze said:


> My lines are getting bad. I went ahead and ordered the part. It looks like this is an updated part number, so hopefully it fixes any issues with the crimps failing. I am due in 15k for a transmission fluid drain/fill, so I will just take the day and do both at the same time. Not doing much these days anyways lol.


Best of luck - you're going to need it. What was the new part number?


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Best of luck - you're going to need it. What was the new part number?


23143028


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Okay, good, same number as what I put on back in 2018.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Okay, good, same number as what I put on back in 2018.


Are there any new seals or o rings that need to be replaced? I'm going to feel like an idiot putting this on just to find out it was a leaking o-ring.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

@MP81 

I took a look at this today by just pulling the bottom shield off and cleaning up all of the oil that is slopped everywhere. Didn't start the job yet I can see though the clips are going to be hard to get off. I'm going to wait until tomorrow. I am tempted to just cut off the rubber line and use a new hose but I don't know what type of clamp would hold sufficiently. I think if I pull the wirling loom back that is right in the way of the bottom one I should be able to get the clips off. Any other advice? Also, how much fluid do you lose from this? I only have 6 qts. Looks like a normal drain.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yeah, the clips are the real bitch - especially trying to get the back on - though getting them off was no easy feat, either.

There is actually a thread on here to do just that to the diesel lines and some fuel line - costs like $5 and might not even need you to take them off the car...

As far as fluid lost, I added 0.9 quarts of fluid after doing the trans lines to get it to the proper "full" spec.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Yeah, the clips are the real bitch - especially trying to get the back on - though getting them off was no easy feat, either.
> 
> There is actually a thread on here to do just that to the diesel lines and some fuel line - costs like $5 and might not even need you to take them off the car...
> 
> As far as fluid lost, I added 0.9 quarts of fluid after doing the trans lines to get it to the proper "full" spec.


Wow you weren't kidding, this job sucked. I just have to set the fluid level and put the plastic pieces back in tomorrow. Took around 5 hours today (about 2 of that telling the car what I thought of it's mother) and an hour yesterday to do this. Vast majority of the time looking at the cooler lines and how to get the clips out and time spent getting them back in. But I feel like I could do it much faster now if I had to do it again.

For those that want to take this on yourself (replacing the cooler hose assembly), here are some basic steps.

From under the hood, using 10mm socket disconnect the negative ground terminal from the battery
Take down both lower engine splash shields (one under transmission and under radiator)
From in front of the driver front tire, look up to the bottom corner of the radiator for a black circle plastic cover over the bottom line and unsnap it.
Using a small flat screwdriver and/or 90' hook tool, push the clip out of the connector and catch it. If you can't see the bottom of the clip to push on, using a 3/4" spanner, unscrew the line fitting on the transmission a 1/2 turn to access the clips.
Pull the line out and catch the fluid (only a few drops). Reinsert the clip
Remove the two connectors on the glow plug module that hangs off the battery tray and push those cables aside
Using 10mm socket, disconnect the three body ground cables next to the battery and push them aside.
Pull the remaining wire xmas tree connector from near the radiator and push that aside
You should now have clear access to the top line. Using the same method as step 2, remove the clip by pushing on the feet making sure to grab it.
If needed, use locking pliers to grab onto the steel line and pull it from the radiator. Reinsert the clip.
Unsnap the upper line from the clip halfway up the radiator.
Remove the final 10mm bolt holding the lines into the transmission, catching a small amount of fluid and pull the hose assembly down and out.
Replace the line assembly. I recommend placing everything before snapping in place because you will need to move it around
Start with running the upper line to the top of the radiator (making sure to have the plastic cap at the end of the line)
Position the bottom line
Position the 2 inlets into the transmission on the stud
Reconnect all three connectors. If you have issue with the upper connector, use a long block of thin wood to tap the line into place on the bend.
Reconnect wiring and re-tighten fittings if you had to loosen.
Start engine, verify there are no leaks. Set transmission fluid level.
Reattach bottom splash shields.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Oh yeah - there was a significant amount of swearing from both myself and my buddy who's lift I borrowed to do this job and who gave me a hand. 

I'm still convinced the engine/trans combo is larger than the engine bay.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Hmm went to do my top off of transmission fluid today and realized I did the spec wrong last time. You only ad .5 Liter cold or 1 liter if hot. Last time I only put in .5 liter after getting hot. Oh well, replaced around 5 qts of fluid today and set the limit. So far no leaks after 24 hours so I'm happy.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Where do you see that spec?

The one I've always followed was run the trans fluid up to a specified temp, open the check valve, while everything is running, and let it run out until it slows to a rate of one drip per second, then reinstall the check plug and turn the engine off. Then you add 0.5L.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> Where do you see that spec?
> 
> The one I've always followed was run the trans fluid up to a specified temp, open the check valve, while everything is running, and let it run out until it slows to a rate of one drip per second, then reinstall the check plug and turn the engine off. Then you add 0.5L.


You know, I actually don't know what's right. I've watched different videos and both give different values to fill when hot. One says .5 and the other says around 1 liter.

Either way, I can't imagine .5 liters/quarts is going to make that much of a difference.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

This looks pretty official and says .5 liters



Check / Replace AF40 Transmission Fluid – [Abs-Zero]


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> Where do you see that spec?
> 
> The one I've always followed was run the trans fluid up to a specified temp, open the check valve, while everything is running, and let it run out until it slows to a rate of one drip per second, then reinstall the check plug and turn the engine off. Then you add 0.5L.


I’m now at 40k miles on the diesel and haven’t even looked if they are leaking. Shifting is business as usual and had the trans flushed at the dealer at 30k. Hope Florida temps kept it from leaking.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I'm going to assume/hope, they they took a look at the trans lines when they did that, and if they did they'd make mention if they were leaking. You might be one of the lucky ones, as they're a _pain_ to change!


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> I'm going to assume/hope, they they took a look at the trans lines when they did that, and if they did they'd make mention if they were leaking. You might be one of the lucky ones, as they're a _pain_ to change!


Knowing the dealer if they where leaking they’d call me ASAP to sell me in the repair and ask for authorization. I’ll check tomorrow but for now the trans shifts identical to when I got it new.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

That's good - it was pretty obvious with ours there were shifting issues.

No leaking lines anymore, but its shitty in different ways. Probably related to it being low/having leaking lines for however long it had them before I found that out...oh well...may just be a solenoid, but I'm not sure its replaceable.


----------



## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

MP81 said:


> That's good - it was pretty obvious with ours there were shifting issues.
> 
> No leaking lines anymore, but its shitty in different ways. Probably related to it being low/having leaking lines for however long it had them before I found that out...oh well...may just be a solenoid, but I'm not sure its replaceable.


I’ve noticed GM has way over complicated things when it comes to lines. I see the vast quantities of plastic couplers and hoses that are just wonky. What is wrong with a old school metal barb and a simple hose/ clamp combo. Under the hood of the 1.4T I’d hate to replace all the plastic junk once it cracks with age. What happened to the simplicity of metal outlet and rubber hose to other metal outlets.


----------



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

That's the thing: the lines _are_ metal and rubber. They leak at the rubber to metal connections, and it doesn't seem to be limited to just this car - it's pretty typical across the industry.


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

pandrad61 said:


> I’ve noticed GM has way over complicated things when it comes to lines. I see the vast quantities of plastic couplers and hoses that are just wonky. What is wrong with a old school metal barb and a simple hose/ clamp combo. Under the hood of the 1.4T I’d hate to replace all the plastic junk once it cracks with age. What happened to the simplicity of metal outlet and rubber hose to other metal outlets.


its not a GM thing

vehicles are vending machines for parts

if it was a barbed fitting/hose clamp set up, you could go anywhere and fix it

the way manufacturers do it, you HAVE TO go to the dealer (or until say 10 yrs ago when most ppl started buying online) to get it fixed, or in the smaller percentage, buy the part from the dealer and diy

theyre protecting their investment, on our 2012 western stars at job i used to work at, there were 3 def heating lines (def was heated by the coolant)....all 3 lines were different and had different connectors, all proprietary, so you couldnt macgyver them

same with injectors...frickin motor had 6 different injector lines....at least Mack used the same injector line for each cylinder, you only needed one part number on hand.

on my wifes 98 cherokee, i have the trans lines 'fixed' with the barbed fittings and fuel injector clamps....been good for 8yrs so far, lol....hell, we fixed allison trans lines the same way at work

again on wifes 98 cherokee, 3 mos ago a leak started in a pinhole in the hard fuel line coming up the drivers wheel well....its a ~4' long bendy hard line....$50+ if you can find one.....i removed it, slipped $3 of fuel injection hose over the hole and used another $3 of fuel injection clamps to hold it on....itll last another 15yrs easy


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

im friends with a car salesman

3x a week, a car comes in with a 'big' repair bill

like a 2015 cruze that needs $3000 of work, the service writer reads the customer, then texts my boy that he's got a live one

he pops in all non chalant and does his spiel, how he can put the customer into something NEW and with a WARRANTY and keep the payment the same, lol

customer signs and drives off happy, service writer gets a cash bonus from my boy

errybody is happy, customer has new car, writer has drinkin money, my boy has another one on the board, store is happy - more manufacturer money coming, plus the money from the trade, manufacturer is happy they moved another unit, bank is happy

its ugly man


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

boraz said:


> im friends with a car salesman
> 
> 3x a week, a car comes in with a 'big' repair bill
> 
> ...


And people wonder why car salesman (and that industry as a whole) are some of the least trustworthy people. I've heard in Canada it's really bad with how dealers take advantage of people.

Service departments at dealers are no better, many times they just throw parts at cars until it's fixed. That's why I always asked "do you guarantee this will fix it". I've walked away from dealers before after using that line when they said no, only to find out it wasn't that problem. Once a dealer told me I had warped brake rotors (8 month old OEM) when in fact the steering rack was bad. I had another dealer tell me I had bad wheel bearings (which they dialed and even found not bad but said "start there" anyways) when I actually had a bad tripod joint on the driveshaft. It's just crazy. Always, always, always ask if they guarantee it will fix the problem. That tells you exactly how confident they are.

Taking it to the dealer is always the last resort in my mind unless it's under warranty, which in that case they can throw parts at it all day if they want.


----------



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

BDCCruze said:


> And people wonder why car salesman (and that industry as a whole) are some of the least trustworthy people. I've heard in Canada it's really bad with how dealers take advantage of people.
> 
> Service departments at dealers are no better, many times they just throw parts at cars until it's fixed. That's why I always asked "do you guarantee this will fix it". I've walked away from dealers before after using that line when they said no, only to find out it wasn't that problem. Once a dealer told me I had warped brake rotors (8 month old OEM) when in fact the steering rack was bad. I had another dealer tell me I had bad wheel bearings (which they dialed and even found not bad but said "start there" anyways) when I actually had a bad tripod joint on the driveshaft. It's just crazy. Always, always, always ask if they guarantee it will fix the problem. That tells you exactly how confident they are.
> 
> Taking it to the dealer is always the last resort in my mind unless it's under warranty, which in that case they can throw parts at it all day if they want.


yeah this particular car salesman is in PA, lol but theyre all the same, just get the customer in the box.

i had a dealer tell me i had bad cv joint in my jeep....it doesnt have cv joints, lol, its solid front axle.

2nd time when my diesel cruze went into limp mode 300 miles from home, left it at that dealer as they had to wait for parts to do the def tank warranty

they called and said all the free stuff is done, now it needed a new dpf....WTF??....to the tune of $3000 with labor

i brought the rental back, and started driving the car home, the countdown would get me to a particular town where i could rent a uhaul and dolly and bring the car home and wait for the delete to arrive in the mail

i drove it one gear down and 10 miles before that town and 15 miles before the countdown would put me in severe slow limp mode, the car started working fine again, the countdown was gone....

so being the bad ass that i am, (lol)...i kept driving

and made it home

and 3 days later drove it back to work 500 miles

i put 3000 miles on the "bad dpf' before i installed the delete.

fricking thieves

i buy my filters and other larger $$ car items online....the odd gasket that i need randomly, like a $5 part, its cheaper to go to the dealer than deal with shipping costs (canada) but otherwise, im done with new cars and being raped


----------



## 15cruzediesel (Sep 30, 2019)

Being at the mercy of anybody sucks. Be it car repair to house repair and the worst of it all health issues.

Fortunately health issues are my only "Being at the mercy of" life issues and even that I have family in the medical fields.

It is always fun when others ASSume you don't know what end of the screw driver to use.....


----------



## ororuben (Feb 12, 2020)

KpaxFAQ said:


> When I was under my car doing other work with the front panels removed, I noticed the transmission cooler lines were leaking around the metal barbs. It's not too bad but enough I'd like to repair it. I'd prefer to do a permanent fix and not just replace the lines with OEM parts that will just leak again in the future.
> 
> Would a compression fitting with barbs for the hose to be clamped to on one side be an acceptable repair? Like what guys installing tranny coolers use? Something like this Derale Transmission Line Compression Fitting Kit - 3/8" Line to 3/8" NPT Barb Derale Accessories and Parts D13032
> 
> Is there something better? I'm all ears. I searched around here but didn't find something conclusive that I was looking for.


I've had the same issue, and was able to make a temporary repair with self sealing tape, it actually worked really well to my surprise, but I notice that the lines started leaking in the first place because of their proximity to the turbo housing, the heat softens the rubber line where it connects to the metal tubing, so the heat eventually cooked the self sealing tape... I ended up making a metal shield out of thin aluminum window flashing, and wrapped new self leasing silicone tape and it's held for about 2 months now, I'm always checking the hose for oil and its been dry. but eventually have to change the lines which looks like its a pain.


----------



## ororuben (Feb 12, 2020)

ororuben said:


> I've had the same issue, and was able to make a temporary repair with self sealing tape, it actually worked really well to my surprise, but I notice that the lines started leaking in the first place because of their proximity to the turbo housing, the heat softens the rubber line where it connects to the metal tubing, so the heat eventually cooked the self sealing tape... I ended up making a metal shield out of thin aluminum window flashing, and wrapped new self leasing silicone tape and it's held for about 2 months now, I'm always checking the hose for oil and its been dry. but eventually have to change the lines which looks like its a pain.


Also, I don't suggest using the metal worm clamps on compression lines as they loosen up with the change of temperature, also they don't make uneven pressure since the worm gear part is flat.


----------

