# Holy Famunda Batman! There’s a blue fungus among us!



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Yeah......you have a bum battery.

During construction the post holes in the top case are sealed to the posts......this is what happens when the posts leak acid at the post to case interface.......the cable is ruined and likely corrosion is running down the wire under the insulation as well.
If the battery still has any warranty use your photos to prove your point......this may be difficult because few retailers actually know how the battery is constructed.

This one will require a battery and a positive cable for an effective repair.

SUX!

Rob


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Robby said:


> Yeah......you have a bum battery.
> 
> During construction the post holes in the top case are sealed to the posts......this is what happens when the posts leak acid at the post to case interface.......the cable is ruined and likely corrosion is running down the wire under the insulation as well.
> If the battery still has any warranty use your photos to prove your point......this may be difficult because few retailers actually know how the battery is constructed.
> ...


When I had my Cruze in to have the negative cable replaced, it looked just like this when they returned it to me. Up until then I hadn't been under the hood much. It was under warranty then , but surely is not now. I think this is the original battery to boot.

Thanks for the input. Do you happen to know the Siemens or conductance of a stock battery? I have both an Ultra and Essential (Midtronics) tester available to me, but need that piece of info to test it.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Don't know who manufactured the battery and electrically it likely will test OK.

This is a construction failure, not a electrical failure.....acid damage.

It would have been nice if the dealer had raised the positive cover but wasn't necessary for the negative cable service/replacement.
This type of failure could have started as soon as a month ago.....acid damage doesn't sleep and it is rapid.
I've seen it so severe it rotted the inner fender through below the battery (not on a Cruze.....yet).

Rob


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Robby said:


> Don't know who manufactured the battery and electrically it likely will test OK.
> 
> This is a construction failure, not a electrical failure.....acid damage.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the help, I've been swamped lately, but am trying to get my ducks in a row. I am trying to locate the thread that recommends a certain AGM battery for the diesel, but have not found it so far. I have an added problem that may be unrelated, but will mention it just in case. I've blown fuse #6 under the dash (front power outlet) for no "apparent" reason. Nothing has changed in the electrical system except the battery issue. I have not used the power outlet for anything and off the top of my head the Radar Detector is the only thing added to this circuit and it works using the original cord and the rear outlet. . Whatever the overload is, is still there though. 

Also along with the Stabili Trak and Traction Control lights is also the ABS light. I had AutoZone re-read the OBD-II codes, but like mine, their code reader is only for the "Check Engine" light. (This is something I did not realize when I bought my reader). Do you have a recommendation for a cost effective code reader that reads the other codes besides the Check Engine/Emission codes?

So three [EDIT: four]things I yet need if you or anyone else knows or has an opinion...

1. Thread that speaks to the AGM battery for the diesel
2. Code reader recommendations
3. A decent copy of the electrical system for a 2014 LT 1.4l Cruze. - I would like to be able to print it on a plotter if the resolution is good enough. ...and
4. Part number for the positive battery cable

Thanks again for the assistance.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> Thanks for the help, I've been swamped lately, but am trying to get my ducks in a row. I am trying to locate the thread that recommends a certain AGM battery for the diesel, but have not found it so far. I have an added problem that may be unrelated, but will mention it just in case. I've blown fuse #6 under the dash (front power outlet) for no "apparent" reason. Nothing has changed in the electrical system except the battery issue. I have not used the power outlet for anything and off the top of my head the Radar Detector is the only thing added to this circuit and it works using the original cord and the rear outlet. . Whatever the overload is, is still there though.
> 
> Also along with the Stabili Trak and Traction Control lights is also the ABS light. I had AutoZone re-read the OBD-II codes, but like mine, their code reader is only for the "Check Engine" light. (This is something I did not realize when I bought my reader). Do you have a recommendation for a cost effective code reader that reads the other codes besides the Check Engine/Emission codes?
> 
> ...


Here are a couple of recent diesel battery threads...definitely stick with AGM.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...ssion/172337-getting-more-diesel-battery.html

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-g...scussion/155881-factory-battery-replaced.html

I got the Deka Intimidator Group 94 AGM. Just after I got it, I learned the same company that makes Deka also makes automotive batteries for Sams Club marketed under the Duracell label. Same quality, better price.

Also, just a thought on the warning lights...negative battery cable replaced yet?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Rivergoer said:


> Here are a couple of recent diesel battery threads...definitely stick with AGM.
> 
> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...ssion/172337-getting-more-diesel-battery.html
> 
> ...



Yes and also added the big three kit from XR earlier on. I will look at these threads shortly, but I also ran into these two again:

[h=1]Cruze Battery Upgrade Options[/h]
I've got the buzzing after shutdown too


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Anyone use any of these code readers?

View attachment 257537


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Well, I found out today what the code was causing my ABS / Stabili Trak / Traction Control issues. The code is a chassis code: C0040 Right Front Wheel Speed Circuit Malfunction. I am assuming that something caught the wiring as it was cut through the insulation and had started to corrode. The sensor and wiring was replaced and so far, no more DIC warnings nor dash lites - Yahoo!


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