# Front bumper bar removal?



## Menace (Nov 16, 2014)

Anyone know how to remove the front bumper bar? I removed the 4 bolts on either side, and it wiggles up and down, but won't slide out.


----------



## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

I don't understand what your trying to remove? The actual metal front bumper aka the cross bar thingy ? lol, hope I could help....


----------



## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

He's trying to remove part #8 in the picture. Is part 7 just bolts, or is there a rivet somewhere? 

http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...odel=14501&modelYear=2012&ukey_category=19392

http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/images/parts/gm/fullsize/1004081P07-008.JPG

13426894	BAR. Front and Rear Bumper/Fascia Face
BAR,FRT BPR IMP
BAR-BOLT-BRACKET-FASCIA-GRILLE-GUIDE-INSERT-NUT-PANEL-PROTECTOR PKG-RIVET-SENSOR KIT, Front and Rear Bumper/Fascia Face. For: PJ,PL69 (2011 - 2014). Required: 01

Is the Sensor riveted on, or is this bar welded and bolted? 

I often thought that this would be an interesting way to remove the engine easily by rolling it out, vs. lifting it up. Was this car hit and has damage, or why are you trying to remove it? 

Appears to be bolted, but why it wouldn't slide apart is interesting.


----------



## Gus_Mahn (Aug 16, 2011)

Those 2 circles on the tab that are on the same plane as where the bumper enters the frame are spot welds. There are 4 per side that must be drilled out to remove the facebar(bumper).


----------



## Menace (Nov 16, 2014)

Yes, the actual metal bar behind the bumper cover. It has 4 bolts that have been removed and it's loose, but won't slide out. In the picture you can see a tab on the side that is pinch welded. I think those pinch welds have to be drilled out in order remove it. I decided to work around it instead of trying to remove it. Thanks for the replies.

I'm upgrading the trans cooler, and adding an oil cooler. I was going to screw the mounts to the back of the bar, and the thermostats on the top, under the headlights. Instead I mounted them so I wouldn't have to remove it.


----------



## Menace (Nov 16, 2014)

Thanks Gus, I was afraid of that.


----------



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, if your ever replaced a door cover or a rocker panel, have to do a lot of drilling, best to use a spur drill.

Had to replace a bumper bar on a 86 Honda, wanted to attach a small trailer hitch to it. When I removed that plastic bumper that looked good yet, that bar, a natural trap for this dam road salt, was nothing left of it. But this was back then when they haven't skyrocketed the replacement parts like they are doing today. That was just a bolt on.

Have no idea why that Cruze needs those dinky little tabs, could have used bolts, but a hail of a lot cheaper to spot weld than to pay somebody to screw in a bolt.

Ha, the 30's vehicles I have owned used spring steel for bumpers, hit a tree would just bounce back with no damage, could also give a guy a push start as long as the bumpers matched.

Also the vast majority of cars I have owned used a bumper jack, talking about 5,500 pound cars, add this to your history book. We also used to have a law where bumpers had to pass a 5 mph bump into a wall without damage, more of history.

Cars today, Cruze is one, tap a wall at 0.01 mph, that plastic bumper would shatter like glass, find far superior plastic on these blister packs that once used ends up in a landfill someplace.

When us guys that were planted here in earlier times that say, they don't make em like they use to, we know what we are talking about.

You could drill out those eight spot welds and replace them with bolts, but don't show these bolts to these new kid engineers, they won't know what you are talking about. What in the hail is a bolt?


----------

