# Planning stages for SQ build in my 2011 Cruze LT



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> Just poking around for opinions and ideas from the great resources of this board.
> Here's what I've accumulated so far for a good SQ system:
> - New Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit (5v Pre-outs; great SQ; plan on running it in network mode for high, mid, and low).
> - JL HD900/5 amp (100 x 4, 500 x 1; <.03 THD @ 4 ohm).
> ...


Good head unit, but for the price with the components you chose, you'd get much better sound with a miniDSP and a different set of drivers. Just being honest here. The only advantage to using a head-unit based DSP/crossover is ease of tuning, at a cost of many disadvantages. 

JL boxes are heavily undersized. JL subs are heavily overrated. Not SQ subs at all IMO and a poor value.



Sent from my SGH-T999 using AutoGuide App


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

Are you planning on running the rears still? Unless you have passengers in the rear frequently, I would suggest against it. It will detract from your front soundstage, making tuning much more difficult. In addition, you would be able to eliminate the second amp and save money and complexity with your install.

The headunit and JL amp are both great products. You will be happy with them. John Myers won a few world championships using JL HD amps.

While the W6 is a great sub, it loses much of its appeal when you look at what else you can get for the same price.
I would swap it out for a pair of IDQ's. If it is already in your head that it doesn't hit hard enough, chances are you will end up being dissatisfied when you put it it. Do it right the first time and don't slack on the cone area.
A pair of IDQ's will hit hard and still sound great in a reasonable enclosure.

I won't comment on the Polk because I have never heard them. What I will say though is that if you are going to break the bank on something, your front soundstage is where you want to do it.

Definitely a good start with everything though!

Don't forget to plan for all the little things....they really add up.

-mounting kit
-wiring harness
-antenna adaptor
-deadening material
-wiring
-rca's
-fusing
-terminals/connections
-distribution block (if multiple amps)
-MDF

etc.


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## rpcraft (Jan 12, 2013)

I'm personally looking at the Image Dynamics brands as opposed to JL as well. It seems that it's just a better spend overall in the SQ realm of car audio.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

rpcraft said:


> I'm personally looking at the Image Dynamics brands as opposed to JL as well. It seems that it's just a better spend overall in the SQ realm of car audio.


Agreed.

It's a much better value from all aspects. Same or higher power handling, lower moving mass, higher excursion, and they sound great in smaller boxes. 

I hate to sound like an ID fanboy, but JL has nothing on them. On that note, few subs come close in the $200-250 price point.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using AutoGuide App


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## djhamp (Jun 29, 2012)

I think your system would sound great with those pieces. I have those same polk components up front, they fit in place of the stock speakers. I had to sand the outside of the tweaters a liitle to fit but it was no big deal. I also have the JL 10" sub in a sealed box. I went with a Sony touch screen deck and Alpine amp but still very simular. The front stage is very clean, powerful and sounds awesome. I have the gain turned fairly low on the sub and it still rocks plenty hard.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

@ExtremeRevolution: Thanks for the honesty; it's exactly what I was hoping for. I have much respect for your opinion and skill, and that's why I posted in this forum. I researched the MiniDSP before I purchased the DEH-80PRS, but all in all, I chose the head unit for the capability to change settings on the fly. I listen to many different types of music, so I anticipate changes depending upon each album or song. As for the sub(s), I'm ditching (selling) the JL W6 and will try out the ID12. Question is: IDQ or IDMax? Single 12" or dual 10"? I'd like to consult your expertise when it comes to building a new box. I have the tools and wood; I just need some design help. I like the JL HD amp, but I love the clean power of the Orion HCCA. I know the Orion will push more than the JL. It's rough, because I'm trying to use some of the same major-cost items from past builds. The more I spend on other components, the more I piss off my wife. Lol. 

@jstoner22: I don't plan on installing anything in the rear doors or rear deck. I'd like to try and focus on the front stage and sub(s). I've traditionally done the full front and rear experience, but I'm open to new things. I'm going to try and retain the Polk MMs - unless I can't make them work with this design. As for the additional items:
- I have the mounting kit coming (Metra).
- I have the GMOS-044 ready to go in.
- Which antenna adapter does this car need? I see multiple options.
- I'd like to go with ExtremeRevolution's recommendations on the front doors and trunk area. After seeing his write-ups, I'm sold!
- I'll be probably doing 4GA power & ground, 8GA for sub, and 12GA or 14GA to speakers.
- RCAs on hand right now are JL Blue Interconnects, but I'm not sure if I'll be using them. It depends on where I mount the amp(s), and if they're long enough.
- I have to get all new fusing, distribution blocks, and possibly a capacitor. I let all that go with my last car.

Thanks again, guys. It's good to go over these things with others like you.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> @ExtremeRevolution: Thanks for the honesty; it's exactly what I was hoping for. I have much respect for your opinion and skill, and that's why I posted in this forum. I researched the MiniDSP before I purchased the DEH-80PRS, but all in all, I chose the head unit for the capability to change settings on the fly. I listen to many different types of music, so I anticipate changes depending upon each album or song. As for the sub(s), I'm ditching (selling) the JL W6 and will try out the ID12. Question is: IDQ or IDMax? Single 12" or dual 10"? I'd like to consult your expertise when it comes to building a new box. I have the tools and wood; I just need some design help. I like the JL HD amp, but I love the clean power of the Orion HCCA. I know the Orion will push more than the JL. It's rough, because I'm trying to use some of the same major-cost items from past builds. The more I spend on other components, the more I piss off my wife. Lol.
> 
> @jstoner22: I don't plan on installing anything in the rear doors or rear deck. I'd like to try and focus on the front stage and sub(s). I've traditionally done the full front and rear experience, but I'm open to new things. I'm going to try and retain the Polk MMs - unless I can't make them work with this design. As for the additional items:
> - I have the mounting kit coming (Metra).
> ...


Just one thing you want to keep in mind: if your recordings are decent (not heavily compressed files, and quality recordings), and if you've tuned the system well from the start, you won't need to fiddle with settings every time you change your song or genre. If you have a sound system that requires you to do that, then you have either very poor quality speakers that are producing listening fatigue, distortion, and severe frequency response anomalies in unwanted places, or you have a bad tune. The idea behind the miniDSP is that you can get rid of very specific anomalies using the 18-band parametric equalizer, and you can lift your sound stage by allowing you to cross much lower than you would with the slopes that a Pioneer head unit would give you, which further improves your sound quality and allows you to cross out of the harsh top end of most midbass drivers. 

I'm not the kind of guy who believes that the ability to change settings on the fly is far more important than greater tuning ability and improve sound stage, so that's my reasoning behind the recommendation. 

As for the Image Dynamics drivers, buy what you can afford. The IDMax drivers are more expensive, but far more powerful and have significantly higher output. Their greatest strength is the ability to produce a LOT of sound in a very little box, and you pay a considerable amount to get that reduced space requirement. They do require about 1000W RMS of power, so keep that in mind. The IDQ drivers require less power. Now, there are "ID12" drivers, which are a budget line, and I would not recommend them for SQ use. 

Can you confirm that your amplifier does produce 800W RMS of power without clipping? At what impedance? Is this a Class AB amp?


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> @ExtremeRevolution: Thanks for the honesty; it's exactly what I was hoping for. I have much respect for your opinion and skill, and that's why I posted in this forum. I researched the MiniDSP before I purchased the DEH-80PRS, but all in all, I chose the head unit for the capability to change settings on the fly. I listen to many different types of music, so I anticipate changes depending upon each album or song. As for the sub(s), I'm ditching (selling) the JL W6 and will try out the ID12. Question is: IDQ or IDMax? Single 12" or dual 10"? I'd like to consult your expertise when it comes to building a new box. I have the tools and wood; I just need some design help. I like the JL HD amp, but I love the clean power of the Orion HCCA. I know the Orion will push more than the JL. It's rough, because I'm trying to use some of the same major-cost items from past builds. The more I spend on other components, the more I piss off my wife. Lol.
> 
> @jstoner22: I don't plan on installing anything in the rear doors or rear deck. I'd like to try and focus on the front stage and sub(s). I've traditionally done the full front and rear experience, but I'm open to new things. I'm going to try and retain the Polk MMs - unless I can't make them work with this design. As for the additional items:
> - I have the mounting kit coming (Metra).
> ...



Correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't the Orion a 2 channel?

By using this on your front stage, you will lose the ability to T/A between your woofers and tweeters. These drivers don't require massive amounts of power, and realistically the JL will be able to push just as much during music as the Orion. I would not sacrifice the ability to properly T/A for the Orion.
The JL will be much more efficient, provide more tuning options and is a compact all in one solution.

The IDQ and IDMax are both fantastic choices. You simply need to decide what you want in a subwoofer. The IDMax will retain most of the SQ of the IDQ, but the bit that is sacrifices, it makes up for with volume.
Both work great in smaller enclosures.
Unless you are going dual IDQ's you will most likely be dissapointed with the output. Although they are a better SQ sub than the W6, they will not be any louder.
If you still want a single sub, I'd recommend a ported IDMax.
If you look they pop up every once in a while at decent prices. You should be able to find a new IDMax 200-250 and IDQ around 150.

Also, save your money on the capacitor. It is useless with the JL as it has a fully regulated power supply.

I would also recommend considering a lower gauge wire. Car audio is addictive, and should you ever want to upgrade, you will want bigger than 4 gauge.


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> As for the Image Dynamics drivers, buy what you can afford. The IDMax drivers are more expensive, but far more powerful and have significantly higher output. Their greatest strength is the ability to produce a LOT of sound in a very little box, and you pay a considerable amount to get that reduced space requirement. They do require about 1000W RMS of power, so keep that in mind. The IDQ drivers require less power. Now, there are "ID12" drivers, which are a budget line, and I would not recommend them for SQ use.
> 
> Can you confirm that your amplifier does produce 800W RMS of power without clipping? At what impedance? Is this a Class AB amp?




While rated 200-1000rms, the IDMax definitely do not need 1000watts to reach their potential. I have run them on various amps and levels of impedance over the last few years, and anything 500+ is just fine.




I took it as the Orion was going to be used on the front stage and not the sub.

Can you clarify this OP?


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

I wasn't considering the Orion for the mids & highs - only the sub(s) in place of the 5th channel on the JL HD900/5.

It looks like I'll be considering a single IDQ 12" for now, with the ability to add another in the future.

As for the Orion power: It's a cheater competition amp. Rating is 50w x 2 @ 4ohm @ 12v. If my calculations are correct, it'll do bridged power @ 14v @ 1/2 ohm load for 800 watts. And I've run it for years at 1/2 ohm with two JL 12W3D2 subs. I'm not certain I'd want to complicate the system, but I don't know if the JL amp has the power to push the IDQ 12 like the Orion would.

Regarding the cap: I had the JL in my last car, and the load was still dimming the lights on heavy notes. I just worry when I add that Orion, it's going to pull a lot of amperage. I plan on going with an Optima yellow top - just like all my cars.


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> I wasn't considering the Orion for the mids & highs - only the sub(s) in place of the 5th channel on the JL HD900/5.
> 
> It looks like I'll be considering a single IDQ 12" for now, with the ability to add another in the future.
> 
> ...



500 watts RMS is plently for the IDQ. They are efficient sub. I really don't think you need to add in a second amp.
What do you think Xtreme?

A capacitor is just going to be a bigger drain on your electrical system. It is by no means a band-aid or fix for lack of power. If you have dimming lights get a do the big three, upgrade your headlight wiring harness (xtreme has a thread on this), or get a second battery. 
A capacitor is also irrelevant if the amp in question has a regulated power supply like that found in the JL.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jstoner22 said:


> While rated 200-1000rms, the IDMax definitely do not need 1000watts to reach their potential. I have run them on various amps and levels of impedance over the last few years, and anything 500+ is just fine.
> 
> I took it as the Orion was going to be used on the front stage and not the sub.
> 
> Can you clarify this OP?


I'm basing most of this off of the maximum mechanical excursion of this subwoofer and how much peak power it takes to make that excursion. I am currently running my IDMax10 in my wife's car off of her Boston Acoustics GT-50 at 400W RMS, and I can tell you without a doubt that the sub is heavily underpowered. She doesn't listen to very loud music so it won't really be a problem while I build her a box for her IDQ10 V2, but I personally wouldn't use this sub on anything under 750W.



jstoner22 said:


> 500 watts RMS is plently for the IDQ. They are efficient sub. I really don't think you need to add in a second amp.
> What do you think Xtreme?
> 
> A capacitor is just going to be a bigger drain on your electrical system. It is by no means a band-aid or fix for lack of power. If you have dimming lights get a do the big three, upgrade your headlight wiring harness (xtreme has a thread on this), or get a second battery.
> A capacitor is also irrelevant if the amp in question has a regulated power supply like that found in the JL.


I agree on the IDQ. The IDQ drivers are very efficient and require very little power to produce lots of musical bass. 500W RMS will be fine as you said. I also agree whole-heartedly with the capacitor. To me, they are a complete waste of money and cause more problems than they are advertised to solve.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Ok. I'll scratch the cap and look into adding a second battery if becomes an issue.
So I have a new idea:
What if I trade (somehow) my HD900/5 and Orion HCCA 250 amp for the JL HD600/4 and HD1200/1? I think that would fit this system better; I'd have plenty of power to push whatever sub(s) I chose, and I can feed the mids and highs separately with power more closely to their rated power.
Anyone have a better idea? Or perhaps another amp, or amps, recommendation?
Im really after clean, loud music. I know it can be done, as I've done it before. But I had different components that I used.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> Ok. I'll scratch the cap and look into adding a second battery if becomes an issue.
> So I have a new idea:
> What if I trade (somehow) my HD900/5 and Orion HCCA 250 amp for the JL HD600/4 and HD1200/1? I think that would fit this system better; I'd have plenty of power to push whatever sub(s) I chose, and I can feed the mids and highs separately with power more closely to their rated power.
> Anyone have a better idea? Or perhaps another amp, or amps, recommendation?
> Im really after clean, loud music. I know it can be done, as I've done it before. But I had different components that I used.


Don't stress the power requirements on the front speakers. You really won't need more than 50W RMS per channel to drive those speakers to their mechanical excursion limits and produce high distortion. The tweeters in fact won't even use 10W of power.

What are you doing for door treatment/insulation?


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Don't stress the power requirements on the front speakers. You really won't need more than 50W RMS per channel to drive those speakers to their mechanical excursion limits and produce high distortion. The tweeters in fact won't even use 10W of power.


Exactly. This is a popular belief I find ludicrous. Especially with my own drivers, I often hear people saying stuff like "they really open up with more than 250watts (rated for 150)". Bull

Just because you have an amp that can produce that kind of power, doesn't mean your drivers are receiving it.
Most often the case is as you just stated. The woofers will see around 50watts on music and the tweeters even less.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Logical. I'm at kind of a dilemma regarding the front door components. I'd like to run the stereo in network mode (high, mid, low), with the low going to amp sub channel, mid to the 6-1/2" woofers, and high to the tweeters. Because these are already component speakers with crossovers, should I just delete the crossovers and let the DEH-80PRS (head unit) do the processing, or (?)


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> Logical. I'm at kind of a dilemma regarding the front door components. I'd like to run the stereo in network mode (high, mid, low), with the low going to amp sub channel, mid to the 6-1/2" woofers, and high to the tweeters. Because these are already component speakers with crossovers, should I just delete the crossovers and let the DEH-80PRS (head unit) do the processing, or (?)



Absolutely. Run active straight from the headunit. Thats the whole point of a unit like that. That shouldn't be a dilemma at all.

Using the crossovers that came with the speakers would mean you are running passive and giving up your ability to independently time align. ...unless you can bi-amp them. and even still, active would be the way to go in my opinion.

get rid of the passives, turn off the amp filters, and utilize all the tuning the headunit has to offer.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Agreed on everything jstoner said. This "network" mode you're referring to is basically an active signal processor for setting your own crossover points on your head unit. The miniDSP does this as well and is more powerful, but also more complicated. For your purposes, you could just use the processing that your head unit offers and would get great results. We can help you figure out what crossover points to use when the time comes.

That said, since you are using the active crossover on your head unit, I would very, very highly recommend you consider using the Silver Flute drivers and Vifa tweeters I've been recommending to people with the miniDSP. They are a far better value and will allow you to cross down to 2200hz with a 4th order (24db/octave) slope. The midbass drivers are very smooth clear into the crossover region and have a very detailed vocal range. For the money spent, I guarantee you they would sound better than the Polk component set.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Those Silver Flute speakers look like they're hard to find...
Recommended sources and anticipated pricing for great-sounding 6-1/2" woofer and whatever tweeter will fit in the Cruze? (I have the capability of modifying the housings, but I'd prefer to not muck it up to the extent I can't return it to stock and offload the car.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> Those Silver Flute speakers look like they're hard to find...
> Recommended sources and anticipated pricing for great-sounding 6-1/2" woofer and whatever tweeter will fit in the Cruze? (I have the capability of modifying the housings, but I'd prefer to not muck it up to the extent I can't return it to stock and offload the car.


The silver flute drivers (~$30) and Vifa tweeters ($16) can be found easily on madisoundspeakerstore.com. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using AutoGuide App


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

I'll take a wild guess... It looks like the W17RC38-04 woofers and Peerless (Vifa) OC25SC65-04 tweeters. Am I right?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> I'll take a wild guess... It looks like the W17RC38-04 woofers and Peerless (Vifa) OC25SC65-04 tweeters. Am I right?


You got the woofers right.

The Madisound Speaker Store

But you got the tweeters wrong. Here are the ones you'd use:

The Madisound Speaker Store


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

I haven't taken the A-pillars off this Cruze yet. How much modification is required to make those tweeters fit?
And how about door woofer - enclosing anything, or have the actual door cavity act as the enclosure?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> I haven't taken the A-pillars off this Cruze yet. How much modification is required to make those tweeters fit?
> And how about door woofer - enclosing anything, or have the actual door cavity act as the enclosure?


You'll need to shave the front faceplate a bit with a file or a dremel. Nothing difficult as it's plastic. 

As for the door woofer, you'll need a set of custom baffles to mount them. I make them for $65 shipped including mounting hardware. As for the door treatment, check out Don's products at Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

You'll need one sheet of MLV, one sheet of CCF, and about 30 CLD tiles (for your trunk and front doors).


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Ok. I just looked up the A-pillar trim and they're about $25 per side. I'm ok with hacking them up if they're that cheap. Lol. 
I really appreciate the help.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

I'll get those baffles from you, Extreme. How do I go about the purchase?

So now about steering wheel controls. I have a prior rental, which doesn't have steering wheel audio controls. I've seen posts saying just to replace the steering wheel (easy) and then take it to a dealer, who can reprogram the BCM. What's your experience with this? True, or not so much? I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams yet, so I figure it'd be faster to ask you guys.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> I'll get those baffles from you, Extreme. How do I go about the purchase?
> 
> So now about steering wheel controls. I have a prior rental, which doesn't have steering wheel audio controls. I've seen posts saying just to replace the steering wheel (easy) and then take it to a dealer, who can reprogram the BCM. What's your experience with this? True, or not so much? I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams yet, so I figure it'd be faster to ask you guys.


Paypal. Shoot me a PM and I'll give you my paypal address. 

Note that I have a few orders ahead of you so it might be a month before you get them.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Well, I ordered the Silver Flute 6-1/2" and the Vifa 1" textile dome tweeters. Now I need to sell my Polk MM components to help pay for the new IDQ12 sub. Oh yeah, about that: Which version is better, Xtreme? Version 3 or 4?

And I'll definitely be going with one of your boxes and the baffles. I'll be PM'ing you about that.

About speaker wire selection: 
1) Gauge recommendations?
2) Quality recommendations?
3) Equal lengths important?

Interconnects:
I have JL blue currently. Your opinion on those?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> Well, I ordered the Silver Flute 6-1/2" and the Vifa 1" textile dome tweeters. Now I need to sell my Polk MM components to help pay for the new IDQ12 sub. Oh yeah, about that: Which version is better, Xtreme? Version 3 or 4?
> 
> And I'll definitely be going with one of your boxes and the baffles. I'll be PM'ing you about that.
> 
> ...


You're going to love those components! If you can do a 24db/octave slope, cross those at 2250 and you'll be golden. You can try to run them as low as 1900hz, but you might run into some distortion at high volumes. You'll be able to play around with it, but generally speaking, 1900-2300hz is the range you'll want to stay in for those tweeters. Run the tweeters out of phase with the door speakers. In other words, reverse their polarity when installing them. 

I have not modeled the IDQ V4 series yet. I'm not even sure if it's available yet. An IDQ12 V3 would be great. 

For speaker wire, oxygen-free copper 18 gauge is perfect. There's absolutely no need for anything higher for the front speakers. 12 gauge for the subwoofer. As long as it's oxygen-free copper and on both leads, you'll be good to go with any brand. Equal lengths are not important. 

As far as the interconnects/RCAs, I usually just buy the midrange line from Amp Installation Kits, HDMI Cables, but that's due to convenience since I buy their power wire too. I forgot what their name was. How many JL Blue RCA pairs do you have? You'll need a total of 3 pairs, and they'll have to be shielded well as you'll be running them alongside some wiring no matter which side you go on. 

Let me know when you get those Silver Flute drivers in the mail. I guarantee you'll be shocked at how great of a driver you got for just $30. When you see them, you'll know exactly why I rave about them so much. The tweeters don't look like much, but they are very, very smooth, have an excellent off-axis response, and are quite powerful due to the neodymium motor design.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

I have 3 sets of the Jl blue interconnect cables. But I think they're only 3-meter lengths. I used to have the JL amp under the passenger seat of my last car. I don't think I have the clearance to put the amp under the Cruze seats, so I'll probably have to do new interconnects.

Here's JL's description of their blue series:
"JL Audio's Premium Blue 25-foot stereo patch cable provides reliable, low-resistance audio connections for your car's stereo equipment. The cable uses silver-plated oxygen-free copper conductors tightly twisted for optimum noise-reduction, then encased in a Teflon shield, so you won't hear any added noise or interference in your music.

The short machined brass RCA connectors, in conjunction with the soft, flexible cord, allow this cable to fit into some tight places. In addition, two screw-down points allow you to anchor the cable securely if needed.".


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> I have 3 sets of the Jl blue interconnect cables. But I think they're only 3-meter lengths. I used to have the JL amp under the passenger seat of my last car. I don't think I have the clearance to put the amp under the Cruze seats, so I'll probably have to do new interconnects.
> 
> Here's JL's description of their blue series:
> "JL Audio's Premium Blue 25-foot stereo patch cable provides reliable, low-resistance audio connections for your car's stereo equipment. The cable uses silver-plated oxygen-free copper conductors tightly twisted for optimum noise-reduction, then encased in a Teflon shield, so you won't hear any added noise or interference in your music.
> ...


Chances are, you'll need to run the cables all the way to the trunk, so 6-meter cables will be needed. 
The JL cables don't sound like they have any electrical shielding. Teflon, IIRC, doesn't shield electrical interference. JL sure does love to play with words in their advertising and product descriptions to make them sound great though.


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

forget any DSP, they are played out.

Just invest in some Kimber Kable.

You can tailor the sound of your subs and speakers just by selecting the right wire!!
for the sub - Kimber Kable - Cadence
$350 for a 5m run

for your fronts - Kimber Kable - Hero
$510 for a 4m pair


here is a taste of the heaven they provide ..."An analog interconnect based on proven Kimber Kable technologies and design goals. Features include our unique GyroQuadratic™ field geometry, VariStrand™, Hyper-pure copper conductors and Dual fluorocarbon insulating technology. Hero draws you into the music by correctly presenting the harmonic structure and emotion of the actual performance, as well as giving you holographic imaging, detail and bass impact. Hero single-ended features precision machined WBT® RCA type connectors. Hero Balanced features "studio grade" XLR type connectors with silver plated contacts."


seriously though, just check out sound Streetwires or something similar. All you want is for the wires to be noise free and of sturdy design. these should do just fine.
*StreetWires ZN7450 
*
if you JL runs are long enough, they will be just fine.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jstoner22 said:


> forget any DSP, they are played out.
> 
> Just invest in some Kimber Kable.
> 
> ...


$350 for an RCA cable? Insane. That reminds me of people who pay $250 for a power cord for and $150 for a "audiophile" wall socket because they think they can hear the difference.

The Cruze does pick up a significant amount of electrical interference though. Those wires are basically antennas that run alongside the same wires that power the rear tail lights. An electrically shielded cable would be a good idea IMO.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Revised product list (so far):
- Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit (purchased)
- Stinger 8000-series RCA Interconnects
- JL HD900/5 amp (purchased)
- Vifa tweeters (purcahsed)
- Silver Flute 6.5" mids (purchased)
- Image Dynamics IDQ12V3D2 (1 for now)
- XtremeRevolution-built sub box & mid door baffles (purchased; waiting)
- Metra 40-EU55 antenna adapter
- Metra/Axxis GMOS-044 adapter (purchased)
- Metra 99-3011S adapter kit (purchased)

Remaining items:
- Power & ground cable
- Speaker cable for mids & highs
- Speaker cable for sub
- Battery (replacement or add a second? I'm thinking about the Kinetic HC1400 as a replacement)
- Sound deadening (thinking of going with Sounddeadenershowdown.com's CLD tiles, CCF, & MLV)


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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

I'm excited to see the install! It should be nice


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

I'm about to order the Metra 40-EU55 antenna adapter kit. This is the correct part for the Cruze, right? (non-premium audio or nav option).


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

What size sheet of MLV for the Cruze? I've noticed they sell their stuff per sqft in a 54" wide roll. And any other suggestions on sound deadening?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Nosmonster said:


> What size sheet of MLV for the Cruze? I've noticed they sell their stuff per sqft in a 54" wide roll. And any other suggestions on sound deadening?


For SDS materials, shoot Don an e-mail and he'll tell you how much you need.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

I am a hush mat dealer and would be happy to assist with your sound deadening material


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

I certainly have to admit .Great preparation will alleviate head aches down the road.
Also I am going to borrow some of these ideas for my ...IT ... build,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Thanks for the recommendation on the KnuKoncepts wiring. I just received 1/0 power cable, 10GA sub cable, and 16GA speaker cable for the doors. That's some really nice quality wire, I must say! It'll be a pain to install because of the thickness, but I'm sure it'll contribute nicely to a good quality sound.


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Well, I'm almost ready for install. I got my quote back for sound deadening, but it was twice what I budgeted for sound deadening. I'll have to pick and choose which areas to complete temporarily, which will have the most effect on the sound. I was thinking of just doing the doors for now. Any thoughts?


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## giantsfan10 (May 25, 2013)

with the deadening supplies you got a quote for how much was that going to cover on the car? personally when I do mine in a month or so will only be doing the trouble areas trunk, and im only doing a front stage so the front doors will need to be done. if there are some problem areas after that then I will deal then. remember sometimes less is more with sound deadening. also what products are you using and where did this quote come from? a quote from a car audio shop using most likely a price brand name such as dynamat will most likely cost double then something from say don over at sound deadner showdown


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

That quote was from Don. It was for the following areas:
- Front doors
- Rear doors
- Rear floor
- Back seat platform
- Rear deck
- Trunk floor
- Trunk Lid
- Quarter panels
- Trunk back wall

I trust and value the products he uses, and I really want to do this job right, but I just can't justify spending that much money on sound deadening - as compared to the rest of the project.

I might be able to do the sound deadening in different sessions - just not all at once (which I was hoping to do).



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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

Well, it has begun.
Today I accomplished the following:
- Replaced stock battery with an Optima D34-78 yellow top. I had to make several custom spacers, re-anchor the positive terminal junction board, and reroute some wiring. Here are a few pics (if it'll let me do it):
Stock battery removed:








Making some custom spacers to put at the rear of the battery tray:















Spacers done and installed some rubber padding for the battery:








Finished battery install:








- Installed the Big 3 kit. That was by far the easiest part of this project!

- Ran 1/0 KnuKoncepts power cable from battery to under the driver's seat. This was a challenge. Starting at the battery, I ran the 1/0 to a custom-mounted fuse. Then through the firewall grommet behind and below the cooling system reservoir.








Then just followed the channel in the driver's door sill















and under the carpeting at the B-pillar base








I made a u-turn around the seat base and back into a slot in the same hole as the left driver's side under-seat air vent. 








This will make for a good separation of power and signal wiring.

- Ran the subwoofer 10 Ga KnuKoncepts wiring from under the driver's seat to the trunk. I started at the right driver's side under-seat air vent and went directly rearward and followed the base curve below the rear seat. Then removed the rear seat base for better access, and routed the wiring to the driver's side rear door sill area, under the carpet, and to the trunk in the corner. I plan to put the subwoofer box in the driver's side, up against the rear seat.

I'll see what more I can get done tomorrow and report back.

Thank you, XtremeRevolution for your help and awesome subwoofer box. I can't wait to finish this project and start the tuning.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

What are the amperage of the battey like CCA I'm probably going with Interstate brand battery


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## Nosmonster (Jan 24, 2013)

See photo. 









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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Ok coo thanks.

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