# Cruze 2011 ECO - Alum. Wheel Wheel Nut Torque



## upshaw87 (Sep 10, 2011)

Maybe call your dealership...you could have the answer faster lol


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## rmsls1 (Aug 10, 2011)

I have one of those dealerships that will only answer questions if my car is brought in. You only speak with the "Service Representative" who will not answer any questions (and appears to me, not knowing any answers). 

They have a four foot sign _*prohibiting *_customers in the service area. 

I just want to rotate my tires and know they are torqued correctly. I know I am anal about this, but I want it done correctly. I do all my own work, since I have been mislead in the past too much.


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## rmsls1 (Aug 10, 2011)

I am a gear head and I am sure aluminum wheels have a different torque value. Your table does not mentioned aluminum wheels as the chart. I am looking for GM's source.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

rmsls1 said:


> Can someone direct me to a GM source for the proper torque value? I may just can't find it in my owners manual for the ECO, alum. wheels.


RTFM. Page 12-3 of the 2011 Cruze Owner's Manual. 100 lb/ft. And don't forget to check them after about 50 miles of driving.


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## rmsls1 (Aug 10, 2011)

Jim Frye said:


> RTFM. Page 12-3 of the 2011 Cruze Owner's Manual. 100 lb/ft. And don't forget to check them after about 50 miles of driving.


I did RTFM. Note the title of my post. The manual I received for the ECO covers all models, even those with Steel wheels. I am looking for what the *Aluminum ECO wheels* should be. Another member of the this web site reported at a hundred ft-lbs., he broke several studs. I do not want to go there. 

Again, Aluminum wheels are different. Aluminum has a larger coefficient of linear thermal expansion. For Aluminum it is 12.3 _(10[SUP]-6 [/SUP]in/in [SUP]o[/SUP]F). Steel is 7.3 __(10[SUP]-6 [/SUP]in/in [SUP]o[/SUP]F). _
The aluminum wheel lug area is also thicker. When aluminum wheels get hot they "stretch" the wheel stud, thus creating a higher torque value. This is 101 mechanics.Check any Aluminum wheel manufacturer. GM does not always get it right. Right now they are recalling all the Volts because the catch on fire.

The lug studs are the same part number for steel or aluminum wheels, so they have the same yield strength.

*Thanks for telling me to RTFM*. That was the first thing I did. 

I guess I will just take one off and calculate what the torque should be when aluminum wheel are hot. (Oh, yes, I can take temperature of wheels too, after driving around town stopping and starting.)

I am smart enough to RTFM. I am also capable to calculate the torque value myself. The value is somewhere south of 100 ft-lbs.

I thought CruzeTalk was a place to get knowledge, *not to tell people to RTFM*! I see you have 491 Posts. Good luck in life, if that is the way you respond to people.

I will be getting off of CRUZETALK, so do not worry about any more flaming responses from me.


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## GM_6T40_Trans_Engineer (Feb 26, 2011)

rmsls1 said:


> Check any Aluminum wheel manufacturer. GM does not always get it right. Right now they are recalling all the Volts because the catch on fire.


There is no recall due to Volts catching fire. The fires you are referring to are a result of non-standard federal testing that didn't adequately discharge the batteries after the test. Yes, GM is volunteering to install some parts to remedy the issue brought about by those non-standard tests. 

Regarding your lug question, call another dealer. Or call your nearest tire store. One of the two should be able to give you that #. I can look when I get a chance. I'd guess a number around 70-80 ft lbs would more than be sufficient. I agree, 100ft lbs is pretty high.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

rmsls1 said:


> I thought CruzeTalk was a place to get knowledge, *not to tell people to RTFM*! I see you have 491 Posts. Good luck in life, if that is the way you respond to people.
> 
> I will be getting off of CRUZETALK, so do not worry about any more flaming responses from me.


My apologies for upsetting you. By the way the torque spec. on my '97 Civic with forged alloy wheels is 200 lb/ft and I've not broken a stud in 15 years on it. I guess the studs are stronger.


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## GM_6T40_Trans_Engineer (Feb 26, 2011)

Jim Frye said:


> By the way the torque spec. on my '97 Civic with forged alloy wheels is 200 lb/ft and I've not broken a stud in 15 years on it. I guess the studs are stronger.


Sorry, I'm going to call you on that one. Lug torque, lug dia, bolt pattern dia all have to due with load capacity of a vehicle. My 1 ton truck setting in the driveway doesn't have a lug torque of 200 ft lbs. It's 150 ft lbs. My 20K capable trailer has a lug torque of 200 ft lbs. I can guarantee the lugs on my trailer are twice the diameter of those on the civic. Google it, lots of people are commenting on 80 ft lbs for HONDA'S being the norm.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

GM_6T40_Trans_Engineer said:


> Sorry, I'm going to call you on that one.


I am not a mechanical engineer, even though I tried to become one in college. I agree with your points, and indeed, my Civic owner's manual states 80 lb/ft for the steel wheels, which is what the EXs came with from the factory. When I ordered my EX, I requested the light weight forged HX wheels to be part of the deal. When I took delivery of the car, the salesman was very deliberate about pointing out that the "service team" had added "200 lb/ft for HX" in the margin of the manual next to the torque specification. They had even put a bookmark in to make sure it was seen. Being a good boy, I followed that notation every 10,000 miles when I changed oil and rotated the tires. A couple of months ago, I took the car to a local tire shop for new shoes and watched the technician use a torque wrench for the final tightening of the lug nuts. He came out of the shop to give me my keys and he said it was the first EX with HX wheels he had ever seen. He said to bring the car back in a couple of days and he would re-torque the lugs. I did and he did. He said he was a big Honda fan and had eight of them at home. Tonight, I grabbed my torque wrench and went to the garage. I loosened a nut on each wheel and got a break loose torque of 205 to 210 lb/ft. I am very interested to see what the proper torque spec. is for Cruze alloy wheels.


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## micronot (Aug 2, 2011)

rmsls1 said:


> I have a Cruze 2011 ECO with Alum. Wheels. What is the Wheel Nut Torque for this car and wheels? I have checked my owners manual and cannot find the specification. I have searched this site and have seen members use their values on LT's and have twisted the wheel lugs off! I really do not want this to happen.
> 
> Can someone direct me to a GM source for the proper torque value? I may just can't find it in my owners manual for the ECO, alum. wheels.



Did you ever get an answer? I've been torquing mine to 90 lb-ft. You might be OK going per manual at 100 lb-ft. I explain the details below, but basically there is very little difference in linear expansion.


The lugs are steel, and have a linear thermal expansion coefficient of 7.3x10^-6 in/in degF, and for the aluminum wheels its 12.3x10^-6 in/in degF. If you assume a 75F temperature rise from driving, a 1.88" long wheel stud, and about .38 thick wheel hub: The stud grows: 1.88 * 7.3x10^-6 *75= .0010" and the wheel hub grows: .38 * 12.3x10^-6 * 75= .0004", so at driving temperature, the net difference is .0006" LOOSER! The difference is basically negligible and would not cause a stud to break. 

Now with steel wheels, the thickness of the steel at the hub is much thinner than that of the aluminum mags, and would have a thermal growth of less than .0001" with a 75F rise, with the difference being about .0009" looser, so that is why the steel lugs need to be a little tighter. 

Due to the greater length of the studs, they will grow more than the wheel and become looser at higher temperatures.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Have Aluminum wheels on my 2012 2LT, I added anti-seize to the studs and to the wherever either the drum or the rotor contacts the wheel rim. Have to because of this darn road salt. If you don't, this is when you break studs trying to remove the lug nuts or can't even remove the rim from the rotor or drum. Been doing this for the last 50 or so years without any problems.

Specified torque for the Cruze lug nuts is 100 ft-lbs, or 100 pound-feet if you prefer. Has been this same torque specification on any aluminum car type lug nut that I can remember. Did quit checking the torque after 50 miles, never made any difference. But not saying no to this recommended practice.

If I see a mechanic trying to use an impact wrench to install lug nuts, put it this way, he is putting his own life in this hands.

Another factor is the torque wrench you are using, I would never trust this made in Asia units, get one from a Made in the USA manufacturer. Also prefer the analog type as opposed to the click types, but at these torques, more like a loud crack. Not sure if that is the wrench I am using or what is being tightened making that loud crack.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

80 ft/lbs is a more realistic specification for aluminum wheels. 100 ft/lbs is for steel wheels. I snapped studs on my Eco when torquing the OEM wheels to 100 ft/lbs. At 80 ft/lbs I haven't had an issue.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

sciphi said:


> 80 ft/lbs is a more realistic specification for aluminum wheels. 100 ft/lbs is for steel wheels. I snapped studs on my Eco when torquing the OEM wheels to 100 ft/lbs. At 80 ft/lbs I haven't had an issue.


How accurate is your torque wrench? GM has used the 100ft/lb for their small cars for some time regardless of steel or aluminium rims. I ask about your torque wrench because like NickD mentioned above I have seen those Asian made ones snap off a bolt when set to the correct torque spec.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Also, a reminder.....100 ft. lb. is spec for clean, unlubricated studs.

If there is any lubricant present, you will break the stud before ever reaching 100 ft.lb.

Rob


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## Benner (Sep 28, 2013)

I'm GM service Tech. 100ft-lbs. 

And B.S on braking 4 studs at 100ft-lbs unless they've been previously way over torqued (by more than double) or cross threaded or lubed. 

For example your 06-11 Toyota tundras call for something low like 76-90 ftlbs unless you have steel wheels then it's 167ftlbs. Same stud on all models. That's almost double the spec depending on wheels. Studs aren't easy to break unless you crank on them with an impact, way over tighten with a breaker bar, or just don't know how to use a torque wrench.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

"Wheel studs = Hardened and tempered SAE 4140 Steel with hardness 28-33 HRC. 
Hex, flanged nuts = consistent with heat treated carbon or low alloy steel SAE J995, Grade 8"

Maybe the guy with broken studs has Made in China rolled CRS studs in his car. Maybe even made of pot metal. I don't know.

Never thought there would be a debate on using specified torque, always a first time, I guess. If they broke this easily, would be contacting somebody at GM.


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## ehousel (Nov 1, 2013)

if you break the studs at 100ft lb first click there is something wrong with your studs or wrench i have worked on 50+ ecos 2011-2013 and never broken one and we do free rotations where i work so i have torqued quite a few! Some of the guys i work with have reemed them on with impact wrench without torque sticks:x no broken studs


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## chevycruze2012 (Nov 13, 2012)

100ft ibs for wheel lug nut torque. Idc what anyone else tells you. Torque them **** things to 100 ft ibs but also make sure you have a good torque wrench. As an accurate reading for proper wheel nut torque, always dial your torque wrench back down to zero when your done. If your cleaning and polishing your wheels, and you are doing them one at a time, if you put the wheel back on and torque them as you go, u still want to dial it back to 0 in between. The torque wrenches get miscalibrated too easily when you don't dial them back down when you should because the spring inside the clicker style ones are not always good, im not too sure on the dial type or electronic types. My friend has his calibrated every week by his snap on guy when he stops by his shop. Ive learned all my lessons on that stuff I stated in this reply.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

I had my nuts at probably 200 ft-lbs last summer with my 18s, learned that the hard way when I went to remove them and stripped the wheel lock key. No damage to the nuts, wheels, or as far as I can tell, the studs. I definitely made sure to keep it at 100 with the torque wrench this time. I've never had an issue in the past because I'm used to massive 3/4 ton truck lug nuts, which I can stand on and everything is just fine.

Overtorquing for your Eco wheels should be the least of your worries- forged aluminum is strong enough that you shouldn't damage it by tightening the nut too tight. Something else should give first.


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