# 2018 Cruze Defrost Vent Boost Gauge Mod



## mr overkill (Dec 1, 2013)

Yes keep updated i wanna see this done


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## WillL84 (Aug 5, 2019)

Why not just buy this? http://store.badnewsracing.net/BNR-Gauge-Pod-2016-Chevrolet-Cruze_p_690.html


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

WillL84 said:


> Why not just buy this? http://store.badnewsracing.net/BNR-Gauge-Pod-2016-Chevrolet-Cruze_p_690.html


Because it's $110 bucks and I knew I could do it myself  I had also already purchased the Autometer mounting kit so I thought it would make for a fun design project.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Sorry I've taken so long to post updates but October was a busy month  Here's a couple new pics! Test fit went well but I'll probably make some slight adjustments. I always use Shapeways standard "Strong and Flexible" which is an SLS Nylon print. It's wonderful for prototyping and very easy to work with. Plus it's cheap so if you need to make changes it doesn't break the bank. As you can see, the surface finish is a little rough though. You can sand it and paint it but what I'll probably do is print it in their Multi Jet Fusion plastic which would be closer in properties to the injection molded part from GM.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Here's a pic of it in the car during a test fit. I need to make some small adjustments to my model but I think it will work well which was reassuring.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Update! Prototype 2.

Reworked my 3d model a bit to make it a little more sturdy and easier to mount and took some new photos. Probably won't get to install it back in the car for a bit but wanted to share so far. I think this design will work so I can either use the print as is or get another one printed in a different material. Honestly it looks great in the car and is like 12 bucks so I probably will keep it as is.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Finally got to work on the install today. Finished up under the hood and I'll wrap up the electric tomorrow. Some points that haven't been mentioned.

That intake pipe is a pain in the ass. Not to remove, that clips comes right off but with the windshield cowl right there it's really smack dab in the way. There is another bolt down on the RH side of the block that, if removed, gives you some more wiggle room there. If you don't take that off you can still get the job done but there is almost zero space to work with your fittings, etc. I tightened the fittings before installing with the exception of the compression nut on the end for the vacuum line so I had to try to reach in there to snug it up. I'll double check it tomorrow to make sure. It's my first time working with those compression fittings so I really had no idea how tight/not tight to make it :/

I'd also love to know where people routed their vac line into the car on the Gen2's. There is almost no info online about this so I ended up routing it through the quarter panel in behind the door. I know that's generally a no no but I really didn't see anywhere else. Anyone have any tips here? I think I'll probably just punch a hole through the door jamb harness boot and route it in that way but man, that is not ideal.

Anyway, looking forward to wrapping it up tomorrow and taking it for a spin!


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Ok update w/ more pics!

Found a good place to run my vacuum line into the interior through the firewall. I really wasn't comfortable with going through the quarter panel into the door grommet (plus I knew that would be a ton of work) so I dug around some more and found a nice spot that looks almost factory. If you have an automatic there is a heavy duty grommet that covers the shifter cable under the center console dash area. Once you pop off the side panel, it's right there and you just have to lift that up and you have a nice rubber spot to route your wire/tubing. If you have a lift, this will be a piece of cake, but if you're doing this in the driveway you'll need a metal coat hanger or some other bendable wire that you can use to fish your line through. I used a couple of paint can handles and connected them and and then from inside the car worked it down and up towards the engine. Then from under the hood, I reached in, grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it up. Then I was able to tape the vacuum line to that and then from inside the car pull everything back out. Worked really well actually. Then I threw some plastic wire loom on over the tube to protect it from heat.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Forgot to post the finished pics! Sorry phone users for the photo bomb. 

*Note photo of fuse pigtail was moved to the 5 amp fuse 3 over to the left of where it is in the pic. Initially I thought it would be nice to have it tied to the instrument cluster but turns out the light wouldn't turn off on my gauge so I caved and got out my test light to confirm. The 5 am fuse I used is for the USB port/ power adapter below the fuse box.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

If you end up taking apart your dash for some reason later on, Look at where the vent connects to the vent grill. There may be a way to put a small grommet into the vent and run your wire in that way, That would get rid of the snake up the side of the dash.


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Oh yeah that's a possibility. Then you'd have an internal leak though no? My grommet with 3 wires in my side panel is a tight fit though so I guess the leakage wouldn't be too bad.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Iamantman said:


> Ok update w/ more pics!
> 
> Found a good place to run my vacuum line into the interior through the firewall. I really wasn't comfortable with going through the quarter panel into the door grommet (plus I knew that would be a ton of work) so I dug around some more and found a nice spot that looks almost factory. If you have an automatic there is a heavy duty grommet that covers the shifter cable under the center console dash area. Once you pop off the side panel, it's right there and you just have to lift that up and you have a nice rubber spot to route your wire/tubing. If you have a lift, this will be a piece of cake, but if you're doing this in the driveway you'll need a metal coat hanger or some other bendable wire that you can use to fish your line through. I used a couple of paint can handles and connected them and and then from inside the car worked it down and up towards the engine. Then from under the hood, I reached in, grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled it up. Then I was able to tape the vacuum line to that and then from inside the car pull everything back out. Worked really well actually. Then I threw some plastic wire loom on over the tube to protect it from heat.
> 
> ...


Referencing the photos on the center column floor. I just checked my 2018 sedan diesel manual transmission and it's the same exact setup with the rubber boot and plastic base. Thanks for finding that. I was looking for a place to pass through a couple of wires and didn't want to drill any holes. Next oil change I'll get the car up on the lift and feed the wires through.


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## Tophatvamp (Jan 6, 2021)

Iamantman said:


> Finally got to work on the install today. Finished up under the hood and I'll wrap up the electric tomorrow. Some points that haven't been mentioned.
> 
> That intake pipe is a pain in the ass. Not to remove, that clips comes right off but with the windshield cowl right there it's really smack dab in the way. There is another bolt down on the RH side of the block that, if removed, gives you some more wiggle room there. If you don't take that off you can still get the job done but there is almost zero space to work with your fittings, etc. I tightened the fittings before installing with the exception of the compression nut on the end for the vacuum line so I had to try to reach in there to snug it up. I'll double check it tomorrow to make sure. It's my first time working with those compression fittings so I really had no idea how tight/not tight to make it :/
> 
> ...


Where can purchase that throttle body spacer


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## Iamantman (Sep 24, 2018)

Tophatvamp said:


> Where can purchase that throttle body spacer


Here you go: BNR-LE2LFV-SPACER-BNR Throttle Body Spacer - LE2 1.4T LFV 1.


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## jamalzaki (Jan 31, 2021)

Iamantman said:


> Sorry I've taken so long to post updates but October was a busy month  Here's a couple new pics! Test fit went well but I'll probably make some slight adjustments. I always use Shapeways standard "Strong and Flexible" which is an SLS Nylon print. It's wonderful for prototyping and very easy to work with. Plus it's cheap so if you need to make changes it doesn't break the bank. As you can see, the surface finish is a little rough though. You can sand it and paint it but what I'll probably do is print it in their Multi Jet Fusion plastic which would be closer in properties to the injection molded part from GM.
> 
> View attachment 284262
> 
> ...


how did you get it printed and do you have the file for it?


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