# Common Issues on Gen 2 Diesel?



## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

same emission problems

no parts available to fix


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Common issues on the gen 2 diesel. Well not sure if they are as common as the DEF heater failures on the gen 1, but there have been some EGT and NOx sensor failures. Those have been an occasional issue on both generations. As well as the occasional EGR issue, which has also happened with both gen1 and gen 2.

For the most part issue with both have mainly been emissions related. There have also been some auto transmission issues with both reported. As well as some clutch/flywheel issues on the 6 speed manual gen 2.

Really depends on how many miles are on your gen 1 and if you like the gen 2 better or not?


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

One issue in the Gen2 cars is the EGR cooler that's been covered by warranty for many people. There were/are a number of people getting CEL error codes for some emissions stuff, and the fix is for the dealership to replace the EGR cooler with an updated part.

If your car is out of warranty and that part has not been replaced, it could be a costly issue.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

I've also heard the automatic transmissions in those models need regular fluid changes. Every 50,000 miles might be a good interval - consult others here on the board for their recommendations. If every 50,000 miles, you should factor that into the price of the car you are purchasing if it needs to be done immediately after your purchase.


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

I liked my 2015 much better than the 2018. Better ride, handling Stero and Power. That is just me though. I didnt get an extended warranty with the 2015 if I had I would still be driving it.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Barry Allen said:


> I've also heard the automatic transmissions in those models need regular fluid changes. Every 50,000 miles might be a good interval - consult others here on the board for their recommendations. If every 50,000 miles, you should factor that into the price of the car you are purchasing if it needs to be done immediately after your purchase.


Both gen 1 and 2 automatic transmissions should have the fluid changed about every 50000 miles.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

TDCruze said:


> Both gen 1 and 2 automatic transmissions should have the fluid changed about every 50000 miles.


There you go.

If you are buying the car from a dealer, they always act so indignant when you point out a car requires maintenance, one item of medium expense is due now, and that you want them to either do it or discount the price of the car for you to buy it. Weird, eh?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Definitely could ask as part of the deal to change it.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

TDCruze said:


> Definitely could ask as part of the deal to change it.


It's really something that's not an "ask" for the sale. 

Imagine if the car had bald tires - you'd want a new set of tires on there or you'd expect the car to be discounted to buy the tires yourself. Brakes totally worn out? Fix them, or discount. So on and so forth for 100% of the routine maintenance items of a car - either they are done or you get a discount on the purchase price.

What is a transmission flush? $400? That's the going price at a dealer for the VW DSG transmission. A co-worker of mine bought a used 2014 Jetta that was one of the Diesel buyback cars. It had 39,700 miles. They told the salesman either the VW dealer changes the transmission oil (40,000 mile interval service) or the car is discounted by $400 accordingly (and they'd probably take it to an independent shop for that if the VW dealer was unwilling to do the basic maintenance necessary for the very brand of cars they sell new and used).


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

I don't think I've ever had an issue getting any 1.6 part I've needed in the shop within a reasonable time frame. They have very similar systems and are subject to the same type of failures a gen1 and all high emissions control system equipped light duty diesels.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

The Gen2 isn't anywhere near as hard on the trans fluid, nor as sensitive to its condition as the gen1 is. Gen1 Aisins really shouldn't go past 30k for best life. The 9T50 also doesn't use special fluid.


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## oregon_rider (Jul 21, 2017)

I don't like the use of a flush machine on the transmission - it can dislodge particles that will get caught up the transmission valve body. I just had them change out the tranny fluid in my '17 with 25k miles. I don't recall it being all that expensive - it definitely wasn't $400. I do a fluid change every 2 years - and yes I know a single change without a machine doesn't get all the fluid...

AC delco makes both a standard dex and a full synthetic dex for our vehicles - my dealer only had the former in stock, which I assume is synthetic blend.

I had some initial issues with the transmission - they had to replace the transmission controller. After that I recall they flashed it once for an update. 

Looking around the web I saw some issues with the 9 speed transmission early in it's rollout where they had to clean the valve body. At first they were replacing things until they root caused the problem...

I have had emissions issues - but they were self inflicted, I loaned the car to my daughter who was in college - it took extremely short trips. It's all fixed now and I have been running renewable diesel to avoid dpf/egr issues.

Other than that - a few rattles that took them a long time to fix - it's hard because of the sloping windshield - reflections off of it make it hard to discern location of a dash rattle, etc.

I also had a failure of a switch to adjust my mirrors.... minor stuff.

jeff


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

oregon_rider said:


> I don't like the use of a flush machine on the transmission


The only device I've ever seen used was when I worked at a fast oil change shop in college. It was a tall plexiglass cylinder with a free piston inside it. We'd use a pump hooked up to the giant bulk tank of transmission fluid to fill the entire cylinder until the piston was all the way at the bottom and the entire cylinder was filled with something like 3-4 gallons of transmission fluid. Then, hoses were hooked up to where the output of the transmission fluid going through the transmission cooler was going into the bottom, and the line from the top was hooked to feed back into the transmission. The vehicle was started and the natural hydraulic pressure from the transmission would pump all the old fluid out and pump the new fluid into the transmission. You'd watch the cylinder fill up with old, dark transmission fluid until it would start turning fresh red color (indicating that about 99% of it was all pumped out) and you'd keep the flush running until the piston reached the top of the cylinder. After that, the hoses were hooked back up, the car run for about 5 minutes to circulate all the new fluid, and then maybe a little bit of fresh fluid was added to top it up. We'd refill the cylinder again and all the old fluid was pumped out and it went into the bulk oil recycling tank to get sent wherever it went when the truck would come pick up the waste oil.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

I was hoping the Gen 2 would be free of problems. Maybe I should just drive mine for another year or two and switch back to gas vehicle. I've been eying a hybrid vehicles as well - I just need 600 miles per tank somehow.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

BDCCruze said:


> I was hoping the Gen 2 would be free of problems. Maybe I should just drive mine for another year or two and switch back to gas vehicle. I've been eying a hybrid vehicles as well - I just need 600 miles per tank somehow.


Really no guarantee that any vehicle will be free of problems unfortunately.

Lots of vehicles will go 600 miles per tank, just most will use more gas. My F150 will go 600 miles, but it has a 36 gallon tank.

If you are doing mostly long haul highway driving a hybrid will not gain you anything MPG wise over the same standard gas car. Once the battery is used up the power will be lacking as most have smaller engines in the hybrid configuration.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

TDCruze said:


> Really no guarantee that any vehicle will be free of problems unfortunately.
> 
> Lots of vehicles will go 600 miles per tank, just most will use more gas. My F150 will go 600 miles, but it has a 36 gallon tank.
> 
> If you are doing mostly long haul highway driving a hybrid will not gain you anything MPG wise over the same standard gas car. Once the battery is used up the power will be lacking as most have smaller engines in the hybrid configuration.


My drive recently reduce from around 100 miles a day 90% freeway to around 80 miles per day 50/50.

Do all these DPF/Emission issues on the 2nd gen have the same extended coverage that we got on the 1st gen diesel?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Basic emissions warranty is 5 years or 50000 miles. I am not aware of any special coverage or extended warranties for any gen 2 components as of yet. So far there are not any unusually high component failures. Such as the gen 1 DEF heater, which got special extended warranty coverage due to numerous failures.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

TDCruze said:


> Once the battery is used up the power will be lacking as most have smaller engines in the hybrid configuration.


Hybrid batteries are not "used up" on highway drives. If you have a plug-in hybrid, sure, you use most of the battery. But it still retains some charge that is used to assist the gas engine for acceleration. You would have to work really hard to entirely deplete the battery of a hybrid.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

TDCruze said:


> Basic emissions warranty is 5 years or 50000 miles.


Most emissions components are covered by the powertrain warranty (60,000 miles). Certain specified components go to 8 years or 80,000 miles.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

BDCCruze said:


> I was hoping the Gen 2 would be free of problems. Maybe I should just drive mine for another year or two and switch back to gas vehicle. I've been eying a hybrid vehicles as well - I just need 600 miles per tank somehow.


Why do you NEED a 600 mile range?
I have a 2018 Redline Hatch, lifetime average near 35mpg.
My daily commute is 130miles.
I fill up near my house when my weekend daliances and chores are done, and then again on Wednesday near work when I leave to come home.

I don't ever wish I had another 235miles range so that I could hope to make the work week without a fill-up in the middle of it
I don't ever wish I had "all the time I waste" filling my gas tank up magically back so that I could do other things....because that's not the way time works, or that I view it. I drive 65miles each way....I'm often driving home late, when I'm either tired, have to pee, or hungry/thirsty and my rest stops, however brief they may be are still longer than it takes to put 9 gallons or so of fuel in a Cruze. It's more of a convenience that I almost never have to go out of my way to fuel(or charge...)
And no conceivable amount of fuel range would alter my patterns or my leisure time


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Ma v e n said:


> Why do you NEED a 600 mile range?


I ask the same question. On genuine long-distance road trips (and I've done both to the east and west coasts), who wants or needs to go more than about 250 miles? You have to stop for bathroom breaks before then. The car I own has passed 800 miles on one tank of fuel, but it was 3 stops for food and/or bathroom breaks before I refueled.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Barry Allen said:


> Most emissions components are covered by the powertrain warranty (60,000 miles). Certain specified components go to 8 years or 80,000 miles.


Edit.

*Engine*

Engine coverage includes all internally lubricated parts, engine oil cooling hoses, and lines. Also included are all actuators and electrical components internal to the engine (e.g., Active Fuel Management valve, lifter and oil manifold) cylinder head, block, timing gears, timing chain, timing cover, oil pump/oil pump housing, OHC carriers, valve covers, oil pan, seals, gaskets, manifolds, flywheel, water pump, harmonic balancer, engine mount, turbocharger, and supercharger. Timing belts are covered until the first scheduled maintenance interval. Exclusions: Excluded from the powertrain coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, coolant, and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded is the starter motor, entire pressurized fuel system (in-tank fuel pump, pressure lines, fuel rail(s), regulator, injectors, and return line), as well as the Engine/ Powertrain Control Module and/or module programming.

*Diesel Engine/Components*

Cylinder block and heads and all internal parts, intake and exhaust manifolds, timing gears, timing gear chain or belt and cover, flywheel, harmonic balancer, valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, fuel pump, engine mounts, seals, and gaskets. Parts of the Emissions Reduction System such as the emissions reduction fluid tank, injectors, sensors including NOx and exhaust, and the Exhaust Particulate Filter. Glow Plug Control System: Control/glow plug assembly, glow plugs, cold advance relay, and engine control module. The fuel injection control module, integral oil cooler, transmission adapter plate, common fuel rails, fuel filter assembly, fuel temperature sensor, and function block.

*Transmission/Transaxle*

Transmission and transaxle coverage includes all internally lubricated parts, case, torque converter, mounts, seals and gaskets, as well as any electrical components internal to the transmission/transaxle. Also covered are any actuators directly connected to the transmission (slave cylinder, etc.). Exclusions: Exclusions from the powertrain coverage include cooling lines, hoses, radiator, sensors, wiring, and electrical connectors. Also excluded are the clutch and pressure plate, as well as any Transmission Control Module and/or module programming.


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## BodhiBenz1987 (Jan 13, 2018)

Barry Allen said:


> I ask the same question. On genuine long-distance road trips (and I've done both to the east and west coasts), who wants or needs to go more than about 250 miles? You have to stop for bathroom breaks before then. The car I own has passed 800 miles on one tank of fuel, but it was 3 stops for food and/or bathroom breaks before I refueled.


While I'm definitely not going to go 800 miles without stopping at all, having to fuel up at a stop usually adds time and nuisance as opposed to just stopping in for the bathroom and a snack. Especially depending on the layout of rest stops and how busy the pumps are. I would go nuts having to fuel up every 250 miles. Though my Jeep's 450-500 was never much trouble on road trips. I still wouldn't say I _need_ the diesel's range but it is noticeably nice even when I just had a daily long commute. Could just fill up over the weekend or whenever it was convenient and not worry about having to fit it in on my way to or back from work.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Barry Allen said:


> I ask the same question. On genuine long-distance road trips (and I've done both to the east and west coasts), who wants or needs to go more than about 250 miles? You have to stop for bathroom breaks before then. The car I own has passed 800 miles on one tank of fuel, but it was 3 stops for food and/or bathroom breaks before I refueled.


Because I hate going to the fuel station. I only want to go once a week. Only certain vehicles have the right combination of MPG and fuel capacity to do this. I don't see this as any different requirement then "have to have 4x4" or "Have to have v8" or "have to have 7 seats".


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## ajb62787 (Feb 13, 2018)

My biggest issue to date was replacing the valve body, solenoid and torque converter just after touching 70,000 miles.
Only twice that I had a tank to eclipse 600 miles (665 Miles when I drove it from Indiana to Maryland after purchasing it back in November and 621 Miles last week), all other times had been around 570-590 miles. I need the range as my daily commute is well over 200 miles round trip.
Thankfully I live in a state (Maryland) where Diesel vehicles are exempt from emission testing


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## oregon_rider (Jul 21, 2017)

ajb62787 said:


> My biggest issue to date was replacing the valve body, solenoid and torque converter just after touching 70,000 miles.
> Only twice that I had a tank to eclipse 600 miles (665 Miles when I drove it from Indiana to Maryland after purchasing it back in November and 621 Miles last week), all other times had been around 570-590 miles. I need the range as my daily commute is well over 200 miles round trip.
> Thankfully I live in a state (Maryland) where Diesel vehicles are exempt from emission testing


 Just curious on details on your transmission failture....

1. What year is your cruze? (I have a 2017...)
2. What was service history on the transmission? Any fluid changes in that 70k mile life?

thanks,
jeff


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## ajb62787 (Feb 13, 2018)

oregon_rider said:


> Just curious on details on your transmission failture....
> 
> 1. What year is your cruze? (I have a 2017...)
> 2. What was service history on the transmission? Any fluid changes in that 70k mile life?
> ...


2018 Cruze RS Hatch
There was a maintenance multi-check inspection done when the vehicle was delivered to the dealership for sale


Pre-delivery inspection completed
Four wheel alignment performed
Install 4 new tires
Nitrogen fill tires
Oil and filter changed
Cabin air filter replaced/cleaned
Vehicle washed/detailed


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

Why would a 9T50 die so quickly? Valve bodies and the torque convertor usally go a lot longer than the clutch packs dont they? Or normal failure. I'm not a mechanic thats why I'm asking.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Cruz15 said:


> Why would a 9T50 die so quickly?


Looks like it has lots of problems with the 9T65 model in crossovers:









GM Initiates Pilot Program To Replace 9T65 9-Speed Transmission


The automatic transmission is found in a variety of GM crossover models.




gmauthority.com





For what it's worth, Ford doesn't want it or use it. This was one product of a powertrain development deal between Ford and GM. Ford was to develop a 10-speed for RWD applications, and you now find it in Ford and GM pickups (and GM SUVs like the Suburban, Tahoe, Denali, and Escalade). In return, GM was to develop the 9-speed for FWD applications.

GM debuted the transmission and it didn't provide the fuel economy benefits as promised. Ford apparently decided that they could take the 9-speed and make it an 8-speed by leaving out some parts to save weight and complexity, and achieve the same fuel economy. Ford also took a prior 6-speed developed by GM and shared with them and has upgraded it to a different 8-speed. Ford is also making a third 8-speed for smaller vehicles with smaller engines (less torque).

It sounds like it's not that great of a transmission. It's strange, because with modern car companies they supposedly go through a huge level of powertrain development with test mules and stuff before they put something into production. 

This is actually the THIRD transmission from a major company that is having terrible reliability. ZF offers that 9-speed that is used in a bunch of Jeep products that seemed to have almost monthly transmission firmware updates to try to solve shifting problems. Car review magazines reported some Jeep vehicles that could not shift into 9th gear under any circumstances. That same transmission was causing problems in Honda vehicles, and that's a rare fail on the part of Honda to get something that the customers don't really like.

Then, Ford has the debacle with the dry-clutch transmission they put into a bunch of Fiestas and Foci. Terrible shift quality, power loss, leaks, etc. to the point that there were/are class action lawsuits and the DOJ is looking into Ford having built and shipped defective products that they knew were terrible.

Now, it's this GM 9Txx transmission. Weird that the past 5 years have ended up with some terrible automatic transmissions in vehicles. I'm glad I didn't buy a Cruze with this transmission. It was going to be $1,600 extra, and the dealership even offered to eat the cost of the transmission when they wanted to sell me a car on their lot instead of having to go get the 6MT car I wanted.


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## oregon_rider (Jul 21, 2017)

I wouldn't say it is a horrible transmission - it has had some teething problems - mine was in the first year or two of production and had a few issues - I don't think later ones have the same problems - at least based on what I have seen. 

That being said, I would do a "drop and fill" fluid change on the transmission every 30k miles or so. 

A manual wasn't available when I purchased ours - not sure which way I would go. Compared the golf tdi and it's dsg tranny - the 9 speed is a dream. Silky smooth and always in the right gear. With the closer gear ratios - the shifts are, at most times, imperceptible.

jeff


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

oregon_rider said:


> I wouldn't say it is a horrible transmission - it has had some teething problems - mine was in the first year or two of production and had a few issues - I don't think later ones have the same problems - at least based on what I have seen.
> 
> That being said, I would do a "drop and fill" fluid change on the transmission every 30k miles or so.
> 
> ...


Although that article does raise some concerns as I also thought it was the early 2016-17 ones that had a few teething issues. It seems some newer ones may also be a concern? The vehicles listed of concern make me wonder if they are the AWD version and not the FWD that is at issue? 

I would agree doing a double fluid change every 30k miles is a good idea. Since there is no serviceable filter and the fluid does get dark fast. 

Still have mixed feelings on the auto trans as I too was interested in the 6 soeed manual. I have seen as many or more issues with the clutch hydraulics and flywheels on these manual cars vs auto problems to make it a draw at this point on reliability. Granted a new transmission is definitely a more expensive repair.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

oregon_rider said:


> Silky smooth and always in the right gear. With the closer gear ratios - the shifts are, at most times, imperceptible.


See, I don't care. I'll give up some smoothness in operation in exchange for durability and reliability.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Barry Allen said:


> I ask the same question. On genuine long-distance road trips (and I've done both to the east and west coasts), who wants or needs to go more than about 250 miles? You have to stop for bathroom breaks before then. The car I own has passed 800 miles on one tank of fuel, but it was 3 stops for food and/or bathroom breaks before I refueled.


my drive to work is 550 miles, i dont stop.90% of the time...the other 10% stop once to pee or nap

overnite drive, good luck getting a fuel station thats open


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

boraz said:


> overnite drive, good luck getting a fuel station thats open


No pay-at-the-pump in Canada?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Barry Allen said:


> No pay-at-the-pump in Canada?


Not much for that out of the bigger cities. Some places have cardlocks if you have an account. 

Canada is years behind the US on this.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Barry Allen said:


> No pay-at-the-pump in Canada?


In my experience, in the US, if the station is closed, the pumps don't work. Some might, but I've run into issues before.

My in-laws lived in NC (Raleigh), then Atlanta, and now NC (Charlotte) again, so for us, _never_ having to stop to fill up until after we've gotten there, and then after we get home is a huge plus. Bathroom breaks can be dealt with quickly at the rest stops on our route. 

Being able to put the whole 750 miles each way on one tank is a _huge_ time saver.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Barry Allen said:


> No pay-at-the-pump in Canada?


in bc where i am, its law to pre pay before pump, so yep pay at the pump

but only when the gas station is open, lol

cardlocks are 24hrs, but you gotta apply for a card


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## oregon_rider (Jul 21, 2017)

[


Barry Allen said:


> See, I don't care. I'll give up some smoothness in operation in exchange for durability and reliability.


Barry,

It's not a win-lose situation. It's a win-win situation. You got you wanted - greater simplicity and longevity with over 50 mpg; and being an "old geezer", I got what I wanted, which was a nice smooth ride with over 50 mpg... 

If one is good, it doesn't mean the other is bad... They are both good.

jeff


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