# Fuel Filter Removal Problems



## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Why are you trying to replace it?


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## HondaTech2016 (Apr 20, 2017)

Eddy Cruze said:


> Why are you trying to replace it?


I'm not really keen on the 40,000 mile interval. Im just over 21,000 atm and want to get a look at it to judge if 40k may be a reasonable interval or not. 

I feel if I wait till 40k then it wont ever come apart if I'm having this trouble at just 21k


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## johnmo (Mar 2, 2017)

Is the 40k interval in the owner's manual? My DIC is still saying 20-something percent life on the fuel filter and I'm at 42k miles. I've been thinking I'll replace it @ 50k whatever the DIC says at that point.


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## crunch21 (Jul 16, 2018)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92TfTQTmuq4

Here is a guy cutting open fuel filters at various mileages.

Personally i wouldnt bother under 50k miles especially if using top tier, unless you really feel like getting gas on yourself and just want to see what it looks like by cutting it open and looking at the membrane....and if you do ffs please post it with lots of pictures.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

There is a lot of variables here, first this is a diesel fuel filter not gasoline like a previous poster was referring too. I just use the DIC monitor and I do mostly highway miles, on gen 1 I think it’s based on the filter lasting for 1000 gallons of diesel, so if your driving on the highway vs city driving your going to get more miles before it needs changed.

When I changed the diesel filter I had a long large break over bar and it came out pretty easily. Unless your getting bad fuel I wouldn’t worry about it.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

What's a filter housing cost compared to paying the dealer to change the filter?

On a car under bumper to bumper warranty, I'd take it to the dealer with a 'you break it, you buy it' approach. (unless it was visibly damaged by the owner in previous attempts at opening it up)


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## johnmo (Mar 2, 2017)

If it's still based on 1000 gallons of fuel, that's consistent with my usage. I've used 768 gallons at 42660 miles and the DIC says my filter is at 21%. Probably still have it changed at 50k miles anyway. It'll be due for an oil change about then and I'm going to have the transmission fluid changed then too.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

It's always important to follow the service manual procedures for filter replacement. Sounds like the filter housing was not torqued to specifications.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

6speedTi said:


> It's always important to follow the service manual procedures for filter replacement. Sounds like the filter housing was not torqued to specifications.


...at the factory.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Taxman said:


> On a car under bumper to bumper warranty, I'd take it to the dealer with a 'you break it, you buy it' approach.


Warranties don't cover consumables. Other than the 2-year service included, filters are a consumable and are the responsibility of the owner.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Barry Allen said:


> Warranties don't cover consumables. Other than the 2-year service included, filters are a consumable and are the responsibility of the owner.


The filter housing is not consumable. 
But I have doubts about the OP being able to open this one without breaking it.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Taxman said:


> The filter housing is not consumable.
> But I have doubts about the OP being able to open this one without breaking it.


Mine was tight the first time I replaced it (you know, at the interval it specified, as intended), but I have a pair of channel locks that seem to perfectly fit the hex, and give me a nice big grip and it'll come off with a little effort.


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## HondaTech2016 (Apr 20, 2017)

I used a 36mm socket and had all the grip I could want with a 11 inch ratchet. I felt like I was going to either twist the nut end off or snap the case in two.


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## chadtn (Feb 27, 2018)

I believe the factory maintenance schedule for gen 2 diesels calls for a fuel filter replacement every 30,000 miles. This being my first diesel vehicle, I thought that sounded like an excessive amount of filter changes over the lifetime of the vehicle. I casually mentioned to a friend that has owned and operated diesel trucks for years that I was skeptical I would really need to change filters that often. I was informed that a fuel filter replacement every 10,000 miles is not uncommon for diesel trucks. heh.. It sounds like the quantity and quality of diesel run through the filter is the deciding factor on change intervals.

To the person having trouble getting the cap off... Have you tried putting the ratchet on the cap and tapping the handle with a hammer in the same direction that would unscrew it? You would not be hitting the handle hard enough to actually break the cap loose or even make it turn. Just a few solid whacks to break the tension loose. Then try turning the ratchet by hand again. I've found that often helps when dealing with factory torqued parts. I call it the factory "twang" because of the sound/vibration you hear/feel when metal bolts finally start to turn. lol

Chad


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## cdccjohnson (Apr 10, 2018)

Just replaced my fuel filter at 37k miles with the dash readout showing 15%. I had a 36mm socket from a past Audi oil filter housing, so it fit perfectly. The sucker was sure tight. Actually I had to use my impact gun to break it loose. Hopefully next time it will come off with a plain 1/2" ratchet. 

Not sure what the old filter should look like, but mainly it was dark brown/black blotches on the filter element. The new filter was white as snow.


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## RandyF (Nov 26, 2019)

2019 Gen2 diesel with 37,500 miles. Filter life monitor showing 29%.

Call me crazy, but I’m convinced that this system adds time to the filter life each time a fuel filter purge is performed (putting the car in service mode & draining a cup or two of fuel from the housing). Yes, I’m one of the nuts who does this every 2 to 3k miles. It’s easy to do and can’t hurt, I figure. Never have gotten anything other than very clean fuel out the filter while performing a purge.

My question is this: if I’m still showing 29% at 37.5k miles, how long would most of you feel comfortable going with the original filter in place? I’m thinking 50k miles, but is that way too long?  I do frequently/consistently use some additive (Howes Diesel Treat) in this car. Never an issue. 45 mpg is normal.
Thanks.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I think we typically do 40 or 45k miles on our filter in our Gen1 - I just wait until it's at 0% and change it around then.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

I change the filter when it reaches 0% if the weather is warm. If the filter gets to 30% or lower and I’m headed into winter, I change it early because I don’t want gelled fuel clogging a dirty filter problems when it’s like 0F outside. Early change is preventative for cold weather.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

I did my fuel filter change at about 30k miles. Still had 25% left give or take. Maybe I have crap fuel in my area, but the filter was very dirty looking by then.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

TDCruze said:


> the filter was very dirty looking by then.


I thought the same thing when the first filter came out of my car - pitch black and full of schmutz. Then I was pointed in the right direction from some others on this forum. Diesel fuel has "asphaltene" in it, which is basically some dissolved tar-like particles. It filters through and floats through with the fuel and when it goes through the high pressure of the fuel pump and then exposed to the heat from flowing through the injectors (and then returning to the tank) it will get converted into very tiny black particles of tar-like substances. When asphaltene gets injected into the cylinders, it's stuff that burns well and is energy used for propulsion. When some of it gets caught in the filter, it's basically nothing and is not a problem other than making the filters look like total garbage.


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## rcruze (Mar 22, 2018)

I have done it a few times now...I hate it.

Going to be doing it again here soon. I am just disconnecting the fuel lines to it and taking it fully out. The last time I did the filter it almost felt like I was breaking the mount.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

rcruze said:


> Itaking it fully out


This is not a good idea.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

If you twist it hard enough it will pop off the mount. Problem is if you don't catch it you might yank the fuel lines off or twist them and end up kinking them. 
Best way if you still have the OEM filter bowl is disconnect the two fuel lines and electrical connector.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

My best removal advice is to use an impact wrench on the lightest setting. Reach up and hold the filter housing in one hand while you use the impact wrench. The light hammering is vibration that slowly breaks the lower cap loose.


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## mr overkill (Dec 1, 2013)

Best way to do it


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## phil1734 (Aug 30, 2019)

I of course can't find it now, but I swear I've seen a factory service type line drawing/work instruction that says to cut a 2x4 and wedge it between the housing and body of the car before attempting to remove the cap.


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## spaycace (Feb 9, 2012)

I see people talking about waiting for the DIC to reach 0% before changing the fuel filter. I personally change mine at around every 35,000 miles (and will do so in my Diesel Equinox too). I also don't rely on the DIC for oil filter changes, but rather use that as a guide for when to sample the oil and change the filter ... usually at around 20% life. The cap on the Cruze was definitely tight the first time I changed the fuel filter, but I never felt like I was going to break anything loose or pop the housing off the frame. The Equinox (which I just purchased a few weeks ago) on the other hand ... I seriously thought something was going to break when I changed that one! WHY on Earth does anyone feel that cap needs to be that **** tight!? I'm 99.99% sure it was far tighter than the recommended torque posted on the cap itself. Thankfully, I was able to remove it without breaking anything, but it was also very difficult getting the cap back on/tightened to the proper torque, so I'm sure it will be another challenge next time as well, although I may try the impact wrench method.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

The cap is tight all the way out until the last thread is engaged. That is a manufacturing flaw considering the housing is mounted on a plastic type of quick release mechanism. The running torque is greater screwing it back on the housing than the final torque setting. This is un heard of. This is why many replace the fuel bowl with the aftermarket aluminum one. Problem solved.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

spaycace said:


> I personally change mine at around every 35,000 miles (and will do so in my Diesel Equinox too).


If I'm getting down to about 30% left on the estimated life and we are approaching winter, I change it then. I don't want any filtering problems when it's 0ºF because I don't want to be out there trying to change it when it's that cold. Preventative maintenance.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

Barry Allen said:


> If I'm getting down to about 30% left on the estimated life and we are approaching winter, I change it then. I don't want any filtering problems when it's 0ºF because I don't want to be out there trying to change it when it's that cold. Preventative maintenance.


If you are worried about icing up you can periodically drain the water trap at the bottom of the filter bowl.
Everytime I change the oil I rotate the tires and drain the fuel filter water trap as a preventative measure as well as using a winter fuel additive. That should be good enough. If you have doubts then yes go and replace the fuel filter. 
I would do the same if I lived in a cold weather climate.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

6speedTi said:


> If you are worried about icing up


I'm not worried about icing. I've literally never seen the "water in fuel" message come up on the dashboard display.

What I don't want is for the filter to be more than halfway gunked up and then to have fuel that's cloudy or gelled up a bit become too thick to flow through the filter that's partially clogged with about 30,000 miles of schmutz. Easier think about it in November and put a new filter in there as a preventative measure.


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## sleepyzzz (Nov 2, 2018)

my Chevy dealer changed my fuel filter after i had problems with the same issue of the filter housing twisting out of the bracket. The mechanic let me get under the car while it iwas on the rack and he allowed that i had been over tightening the housing when i changed the fuel filter last time. then he said that if you take a 1/2" extension 4 or 5" long, it will go into a slot on the filter housing and wedge against the under body of the car to hold the housing while you loosen the bottom part off. I wish that i had taken the time to get a picture but i bet you will understand what i mean if you have ever changed the fuel filter yourself.


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## 6speedTi (May 18, 2018)

sleepyzzz said:


> my Chevy dealer changed my fuel filter after i had problems with the same issue of the filter housing twisting out of the bracket. The mechanic let me get under the car while it iwas on the rack and he allowed that i had been over tightening the housing when i changed the fuel filter last time. then he said that if you take a 1/2" extension 4 or 5" long, it will go into a slot on the filter housing and wedge against the under body of the car to hold the housing while you loosen the bottom part off. I wish that i had taken the time to get a picture but i bet you will understand what i mean if you have ever changed the fuel filter yourself.


Sorry to say but all those filter bowls are very tight in removing or installing. It's a design flaw. There are writeups about it on this topic. Go search and you will see how bad it is. The final torque when installing the filter bowl is much lower than the run on torque (Screwing it in).
Some have tried a replacement bowl, some have replaced the entire housing assembly. Still very tight. Some have used a aftermarket aluminum bowl used on the bigger diesel duramax engine. Don't recall the information on it. My first time replacing the fuel filter I had to remove the bowl assembly from the vehicle. Disconnecting the two fuel lines, electrical connector and then releasing the mount for the bowl assembly. I held the assembly with a strap wrench and used a impact wrench to carefully unscrew the bowl. Installing the bowl was no easier. I lubed the oring and threads. Still had to use the same method to screw the bowl on. Like I mentioned earlier the screw on torque was much greater than the final torque. Never have I've seen anything this crazy. GM knows it's a problem but won't address it by redesigning the fuel filter assembly. So you're not alone on this. Welcome to the insane Chevy Cruze Diesel fuel filter replacement world. 🙂


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