# Bigger battery ? More Power ?



## cruze2011white (Feb 2, 2011)

You are pulling more power (amps) than what your alternator can produce. When your car is running you are not using the battery unless your alternator is not working. You could put a capacitor in or see if you can locate a more powerful alternator.


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## cdb09007 (Aug 7, 2013)

Check this out; http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-audio-electronics/12114-big-3-kits-f-s-order-form.html.

Not sure if TE is deployed at this time or not...


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## kastner03 (May 24, 2014)

bigger battery def helps, adding a second one in the trunk helps even more. a capacitor doesn't do much after about 30 seconds their drained then your recharging it plus powering your system. 2 big batteries takes longer to drain plus having the 2nd one takes some of the instant shock off of the rest of the electrical system.... perfect example is my jeep. I'm running a t1500.1bcp off the stick alternator and 2 megatron II batteries it'll stabilize at around 12.0-12.3 volts been running it that way for 4 years now. when I first installed it did a really big capacitor and after about a min Id drop to around 11.5 volts. no matter what tho for long periods of sustained bass draw an upgraded alternator is the way to go


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## Toma (Nov 8, 2021)

kastner03 said:


> bigger battery def helps, adding a second one in the trunk helps even more. a capacitor doesn't do much after about 30 seconds their drained then your recharging it plus powering your system. 2 big batteries takes longer to drain plus having the 2nd one takes some of the instant shock off of the rest of the electrical system.... perfect example is my jeep. I'm running a t1500.1bcp off the stick alternator and 2 megatron II batteries it'll stabilize at around 12.0-12.3 volts been running it that way for 4 years now. when I first installed it did a really big capacitor and after about a min Id drop to around 11.5 volts. no matter what tho for long periods of sustained bass draw an upgraded alternator is the way to go
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


So did your lights dim when you were running the capacitor or when you were on stock electric/single battery.

Did they stop dimming when you added the second battery?

I'm in a 2012 1.4l eco cruze with a skar rp1500.1d. I certainly cannot turn my volume all the way up at night or my headlights go straight strobe mode with the bass.

It sure is cool but I can't help but thinking it'll get me pulled over/and damage my electrical system.
It makes me wonder if I'm damaging my electrical when I do turn it up all the way during day time when I don't have to worry about my lights dimming


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

More batteries won't help if you're pulling too much juice. Bigger alternator is what you need.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

The Cruze's charging system is quite complex and under computer control. 

As a first step, I'd make sure the stereo is connected in a way that doesn't confuse the computer about how much current the battery itself is using. That means running the amp's negative lead though the "donut" on the way to the battery negative terminal, or just using the ground point next to the battery. Running direct to the battery without going though the donut current sensor will make the computer think current for the amp is the battery charging current and may cut the voltage output to keep from frying the battery. 

You need to work with the computer instead of against it.


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## Toma (Nov 8, 2021)

ChevyGuy said:


> The Cruze's charging system is quite complex and under computer control.
> 
> As a first step, I'd make sure the stereo is connected in a way that doesn't confuse the computer about how much current the battery itself is using. That means running the amp's negative lead though the "donut" on the way to the battery negative terminal, or just using the ground point next to the battery. Running direct to the battery without going though the donut current sensor will make the computer think current for the amp is the battery charging current and may cut the voltage output to keep from frying the battery.
> 
> You need to work with the computer instead of against it.


Interesting! Maybe this is why I have inexplicable minor issues with my amp here and there.

Becuase I'm a noob who just set up my first system; I'm confused what you mean by my "amps negative lead".
I believe you are referring to my ground wire coming out of my amp surely. The only problem I see with this is that my amp and subs are in the trunk, running my ground wire through the sensor donut would make my ground wire the length of my car...
Unless you a referring to the power wire for my amp (battery+ to amp) that could be easily ran through the donut on the way back cuz it is already the length of my car, and that is pretty standard in car audio. But I don't think you are talking about this wire. 
And I also may just be over thinking it but I do not think it is common place to run your amplifier ground wire more than the minimum required distance for a decent ground point. But again I'm a noob and I'm just tryna get the most out of what I got without burning anything up 🤣


I have a big 3 upgrade under the hood. Should I run both my new ground wires through that donut?


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

Toma said:


> I'm confused


I can tell, but in my experience very few people actually understand how electrical systems actually work.



Toma said:


> Should I run both my new ground wires through that donut?


I'll make this as simple as possible. If you run a wire directly to the negative battery terminal it needs to be routed through the "donut" (it is an amp sensor) in order for the system to charge the battery properly. Do not misinterpret. Using the cars structure as the "negative wire" has been proven a better choice many times over running a dedicated wire. And yes, you obviously want to make a good ground local to the amplifier.



Toma said:


> Maybe this is why I have inexplicable minor issues with my amp here and there.


Nope, hardly a chance. I could probably help you out if I had more information, because more than likely one of two things is happening. Either you have a ground loop issue or are getting interference on the low voltage inputs.


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## Toma (Nov 8, 2021)

Johnny B said:


> I can tell, but in my experience very few people actually understand how electrical systems actually work.
> 
> 
> I'll make this as simple as possible. If you run a wire directly to the negative battery terminal it needs to be routed through the "donut" (it is an amp sensor) in order for the system to charge the battery properly. Do not misinterpret. Using the cars structure as the "negative wire" has been proven a better choice many times over running a dedicated wire. And yes, you obviously want to make a good ground local to the amplifier.
> ...


Well the issue is that about once a day, sometimes more, sometimes less. My amp stops powering my subs/goes into protect mode for about 1 second. Then all is normal again.
This happens even when no music is being played at all, I can see the light on my amp from my driver's seat, and I often see it flash protect mode while I'm driving without any sounds being played at all.
I just seems to be completely at random when it happens. 
I had a ground issue when I first installed system. I had not cleaned and sanded my location well enough. Maybe I will go back and try and do an even better job cleaning it but I really really don't think that's the issue.

Yea it just baffles me really I cannot figure it out, according to my dash I have good voltage, always 14 while driving. I maintain 14.7-15 at most times. (which is about .4 higher than I recall seeing before my big 3 upgrade, but I only monitored this for about 2weeks before upgrade)

It's no big deal as far as listening to music and stuff, I just worry that it could be damaging my subs.

Oh snap, sorry to tell you this after all the reading I put you through, I have a ebay Chinese android head unit. Big touch screen thing, I love it and it works good all the time, had it for 3 months now.

I imagine this head unit could be the problem itself. Sometimes at night I can notice the screen flickering slightly. Like brightness going up and down, my interior lights do this as well, and giving the car a little gas to raise the rpms seems to have no effect on this.

I feel like I just handed you a wad of crumbled up thoughts about my car lmao, I apologize.... I probably could have called it a night and laid this out when I am more clear headed 😅


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

In the daytime. You mostly run off battery. 
At night. You'll see mostly alternator. With the headlights on pulling more power.

If you're seeing alternator during the day. Your amp is pulling power whether it's on or not.


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