# #1 piston - 26,800 miles 2016



## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

It's my turn now. 
BNR economy tuned since 15k, 93 octane since 12k, but I ran several tanks of 87 octane last winter until temps got up around 40-50 degrees in the daytime. Usually drive very gently, get 37-39mpg in the winter and 42-44 in the summer.
Dealer oil change February 2017, should have been Dexos Gen2 I believe. Another one November 2017, dealer saved some money by using a PH64 but I'm sure they had to be using Gen2 oil by then. 
Then I used Gen2 Mobil 1 at 15k, 20k, and 25k. (figured it was cheaper to use M1 every 5k than to pay more for Amsoil, maybe Amsoil would have been a LOT cheaper in the long run)

A couple weekends ago, I was in town a lot, and twice I pulled out into traffic at about half throttle, the car moved out into the road, paused, maybe downshifted and then suddenly blasted off just as the car I pulled in front of was getting very big in the mirrors. The 2nd time this happened, I noticed the stabilitrak light was on and wondered if traction control was trying to kill me. 3-4 days later, I pulled out of a parking lot and it didn't feel right, like it wasn't hitting strong on all four cylinders. 1/2 mile later it was bucking and stumbling and stabilitrak and CEL lit up solid.
OBDII codes P0300 and P0301. Misfires, and cyl #1 misfires.
Computer logged 1704 misfires on #1 and 2 on #3.


Finally got around to doing a compression check today. 104-175-220-191.
After the compression check, #1 piston was near BDC, so I dropped my camera in. 
Here's one of the frames from the video, that I thought showed a big chunk of the top of the piston missing. 
But I was wrong, apparently the piston is supposed to look like that. 















So, anyway, what's the part number for the piston,ring, and rod kit? All I can find are pistons, rings, and rods, separately, not preassembled in a kit. 

Does the new upgraded piston require a different rod?
I only see one piston at the dealer parts store I looked in, but two different rods, the one with the bigger (newer) part number is about $40, the other one is about $60. I was surprised at how cheap the pistons are. 

Do broken pistons ever cause turbine damage, or should I assume the turbo is OK unless it gets noisy?

Currently trying to decide whether I want a 2018 junkyard engine or to rebuild mine. 
If I choose the latter, I'll be unhappy if I tear it down and then find out my cylinder walls are scored. 
I might invest in a better camera before I go that route.


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## HBCRUZE2017 (Jan 25, 2018)

yup i had my bone stock cruze other than kn filter do the same thing at around 30k definately wouldnt modify this car...dealership fixed it and just passed 80k and all good so far


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Yikes.

No powertrain warranty anymore?


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

GM covered it for 9 months and 12539 miles.
I bought it from Farmers Insurance 3 years ago.
But it was better looking than my clean title avatar car.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Regular fuel, short trips, idling and gentle driving are not friends of this engine. 

There's no "kit" with all the pieces needed. It's all a la carte.

Typically unless there catastrophic failure of the piston, you can't see the damage with a scope. The ring lands break below the level of the piston face there's usually no reason to suspect turbo failure if the top of the piston is intact and the cylinder wall isn't destroyed.

Attached find the parts list for the repair.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Many thanks for the parts list, @Ma v e n
Clearly more than I'd pay for a 500 mile engine with turbo attached.
I assume I also need that fuel pipe for an engine swap?

Can you remember, or copy/paste, a reasonable summary of the engine swap procedure for auto trans?


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

@Ma v e n , you say gentle driving isn't kind to these engines. Are you suggesting that if my driving includes a lot of puttering about backroads at 55mph/1850rpm I should occasionally leave a stop sign with enough throttle to hit 4000rpm before shifts? (I usually see upshifts at 2300-2800 and top 3000 once or twice a week)


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

The fuel pipe in question on the parts list goes from the engine mounted high pressure fuel pump to the fuel rail. On a "complete" engine, you won't need that 

Yes I'd highly recommend you drive the car in a fashion that's sees it shift well past 3000rpm as much as possible. This reduces lugging of the engine. Low rpm, high load scenarios are the home of this type of damage.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

OK. Sounds like I need to request a high rev TCM tune from BNR. Which might not help my transmission life any, shifting at higher RPM all the time.

When I bought the car, I didn't realize they'd left the shift overrun freewheels off 2,3,4,and 5th gears, so everything but the 1-2 and 2-1 shifts are clutch to clutch. And when the trans is cold, it feels like it's engaging 2nd and 3rd simultaneously, the car slows in the middle of the shift.


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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)

Taxman said:


> It's my turn now.
> BNR economy tuned since 15k, 93 octane since 12k, but I ran several tanks of 87 octane last winter until temps got up around 40-50 degrees in the daytime. Usually drive very gently, get 37-39mpg in the winter and 42-44 in the summer.
> Dealer oil change February 2017, should have been Dexos Gen2 I believe. Another one November 2017, dealer saved some money by using a PH64 but I'm sure they had to be using Gen2 oil by then.
> Then I used Gen2 Mobil 1 at 15k, 20k, and 25k. (figured it was cheaper to use M1 every 5k than to pay more for Amsoil, maybe Amsoil would have been a LOT cheaper in the long run)
> ...


Hello, what Oil did you fill? because of which the piston fell, as far as I know, it is necessary to fill strictly with Dexos1 Gen2.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Every shift in the trans is clutch to clutch. There is only one freewheeling(one way) clutch in the trans and it's really only active(holding) immediately before the 1-2 upshift.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Matsix’s said:


> Hello, what Oil did you fill? because of which the piston fell, as far as I know, it is necessary to fill strictly with Dexos1 Gen2.


Factory fill was Gen1 Dexos. First change might have been Gen1 or Gen2, it happened about time GM changed the formula. There might be a difference between meeting Gen2 (Mobil 1) and exceeding Gen2 (Amsoil claims zero LSPI events in Gen2 test cycle).

First change and 12k were dealer changes.
15k and 20k were M1 0W20 Extended Performance (70% Group IV)
25k was M1 5W30 (20% Group IV)


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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)

Taxman said:


> Factory fill was Gen1 Dexos. First change might have been Gen1 or Gen2, it happened about time GM changed the formula. There might be a difference between meeting Gen2 (Mobil 1) and exceeding Gen2 (Amsoil claims zero LSPI events in Gen2 test cycle).
> 
> First change and 12k were dealer changes.
> 15k and 20k were M1 0W20 Extended Performance (70% Group IV)
> 25k was M1 5W30 (20% Group IV)


Your dealers, decided to experiment with your engine, now let them compensate you for the loss, since the manual clearly says, strictly Dexos1 Gen2, I fill only the factory Acdelco Dex1 Gen2


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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)




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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

The manual page you show says Dexos 1, not Dexos 1 Gen 2.
Delco oil meeting Gen2 came out in the winter of 2017, almost a year after my car was built, and about four months after it was sold. Since the dealer in Davison changed the oil in February of 2017, I can't say for certain if that oil was Gen1 or Gen2. I can say the oil that was installed at the factory in May of 2016 was definitely Gen1.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Matsix’s said:


> Your dealers, decided to experiment with your engine, now let them compensate you for the loss, since the manual clearly says, strictly Dexos1 Gen2, I fill only the factory Acdelco Dex1 Gen2


This is how the dealer blacklists you and refuses to work with you ever again.

Going to court over $1000 is stupid.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

Snipesy said:


> Going to court over $1000 is stupid.


Not at all. If you go to small claims court you can often get a settlement offer because a huge company like GM doesn't want to bother arguing over $1,000.


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Barry Allen said:


> Not at all. If you go to small claims court you can often get a settlement offer because a huge company like GM doesn't want to bother arguing over $1,000.


I agree, and I think its a valuable tool not enough people know how to do.

But not every small mishap means it's time to scream bloody murder.


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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)

Well, especially if you can buy an engine with a mileage of 10,000 miles at an insurance auction for less than 1,000 $ , then you can play ))


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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)




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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)

View attachment 289073


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## Matsix’s (Feb 14, 2020)




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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

Matsix’s said:


> Well, especially if you can buy an engine with a mileage of 10,000 miles at an insurance auction for less than 1,000 $ , then you can play ))


Never saw an engine at an insurance auction. But apparently complete salvage Cruze prices are in the dumpster these days.

I'm seeing triple digit odometer 2018 engines for $600-1000 complete (turbo & throttle body included) and $400-750 stripped (with fuel systems and ignition coils) at the used parts stores. Low mileage (1-2 tanks of gas) 2019s are $1000-1400. New engines (not sure what's included) are $3700 or so.


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