# Losing electrical power while driving



## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

How old is your battery? Have you cleaned the battery cables? Was their a recall on the ground cable from battery? I think on early 14 diesels there may have been a ground cable bulletin or recall.


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## starspangled6.0 (Apr 16, 2016)

Battery was replaced when my injector died over Easter. The cables were very tight when I checked them tonight, and the car only saw road salt for a few short days in its entire life. 

Not too sure about the ground cable recall....


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

starspangled6.0 said:


> Battery was replaced when my injector died over Easter. The cables were very tight when I checked them tonight, and the car only saw road salt for a few short days in its entire life.
> 
> Not too sure about the ground cable recall....


I'm with Indy on this. The ground cable crimp could be bad.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

If the ground is bad or a goofy battery it can cause really unpredictable stuff with our cars that don't make sense, weird transmission shifts, my link issues, poorly running car in general. I haven't had these issues, but several others have.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

The cable is a very cheap place to start. Ordered this new negative cable from Rock Auto last weekend, should be here next week.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22754271,battery+cable,2500

Not currently having any 'symptoms' but figured for $20 I'd have one at the ready if/when the time comes. 

Since I'm not the orig owner, I wondered if the cable had ever been replaced. Based on the date stamp on the tag I'm guessing it's the original.


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## starspangled6.0 (Apr 16, 2016)

Not a bad idea. I had zero issues this morning, but I wouldn't be surprised if that gremlin returns. 

I'll call the dealer today and see if they can just swap in a new cable for free.


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## Velasquez1802 (May 11, 2015)

I once had this problem with my 2012 Cruze LT, I got this fixed by cleaning and brushing the battery terminals and cable terminals.
Hope this helps.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Are the CTDs covered under http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...l-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html? If so I would take the car in and ask for this service be completed as you're having strange electrical issues.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

obermd said:


> Are the CTDs covered under http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...l-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html? If so I would take the car in and ask for this service be completed as you're having strange electrical issues.


I'd create an account with "My Chevrolet" and see if it comes up in the special coverage. 

Diesels have different wiring, so it's a different part and probably not covered. However, I know at of at least one report on here of electrical problems (poor battery charge) fixed by completely redoing all the high amperage cables.

But I'd check for coverage before spending a lot of time trying to set up an appointment with a dealer. Not unless you're going to have them check out the car.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

I am pretty sure Special Coverage #14311 covers both gas and diesel models. It does not single out either engine type or any other specific models, just certain model years.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/UCM507523/SB-10057574-8899.pdf

The Special Coverage does call for replacement with new part #22754271. 

Rock Auto lists ACDelco part #22754271 as superseding three other part numbers, one of which is the original negative battery cable on my '14 CTD (Part #95285136). 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/acdelco,22754271,battery+cable,2500

For $20 bucks, not worth the hassle of going to the dealership. I ordered the cable from RockAuto and I'm going to keep it around as insurance if/when the time comes that my CTD's electrical starts going mental. 

For now (67K miles) no issues.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Rivergoer said:


> For $20 bucks, not worth the hassle of going to the dealership. I ordered the cable from RockAuto and I'm going to keep it around as insurance if/when the time comes that my CTD's electrical starts going mental.
> 
> For now (67K miles) no issues.


Good points, but I like pulling into the dealer, handing over the keys, getting a cup of coffee, reading the latest Hotrod, getting my keys back and leaving with a new cable all for no charge.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Rivergoer said:


> I am pretty sure Special Coverage #14311 covers both gas and diesel models. It does not single out either engine type or any other specific models, just certain model years.


The exact wording is "On certain 2011–2015 model year Chevrolet Cruze vehicles". It says "certain", not "all". It goes on to say "All involved vehicles are identified by Vehicle Identification Number on the Applicable Warranties section in GM Global Warranty Management system." Which is pretty much what I'm saying to do with a "My Chevrolet" account.

If you're not covered, then that dealer trip is likely on your dime, not GM's. Especially if you're outside of B2B.

Poking around, I'm not able to figure out what models are different. According to GMPartsDirect, all 2014 seem to use the same part number for the cable. But it's possible that the updated part number covers multiple models where the affected part did not.


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## starspangled6.0 (Apr 16, 2016)

I spoke with the service rep today, and she immediately recognized that my 2014 was under a special coverage for that cable. They'll check it out first thing next week. They're 10 minutes away, and while I absolutely abhor the idea of other people working on my car, when they're offering free parts, it's hard to pass up.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

starspangled6.0 said:


> I spoke with the service rep today, and she immediately recognized that my 2014 was under a special coverage for that cable.


Sounds like a keeper of a dealer.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

starspangled6.0 said:


> I spoke with the service rep today, and she immediately recognized that my 2014 was under a special coverage for that cable. They'll check it out first thing next week. They're 10 minutes away, and while I absolutely abhor the idea of other people working on my car, when they're offering free parts, it's hard to pass up.


I prefer to work on my car myself as well when possible, but cars are so complicated today having a honest dealer can be an asset. Sounds like this should fix your issues. Thanks for sharing with the forum.


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## starspangled6.0 (Apr 16, 2016)

They took my car in at 0800 this morning, and by 0830 I was back in the driver's seat with a brand new negative battery terminal. Kudos to this dealership. The service rep was even asking me how I liked it the car... seemed like she was interested in getting a diesel in the near future. You should have seen her face when I said they can hit 1000 miles to the tank . 

My money is still on that hot wire I have on the terminal for my fog lamps, but I'm glad to have the cable replaced under warranty. I plan on re-wiring that hot cable to a more secure location soon, and will report back if there's any similar gremlins that pop up down the road.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Folks,

I want to do this repair myself just to resolve a possible electrical issue I'm having. But looking at the repair steps, it seems a lot of other cables need to be removed and other parts are listed. Look at steps 5 and on at this link, why do we need to do all that to replace a cable with just 2 bolts?

https://gm.oemdtc.com/1138/special-...battery-cable-loose-2011-2015-chevrolet-cruze

Are we certain #22754271 is the only thing we need? We are certain the "bad crimp" is the big cable, and not the smaller starter ground that bolts on the side? Looking at my car it looks like just removing the battery cable from the battery terminal, and unscrewing it from the frame ground, then rerunning the new cable through the sensor is all that should be needed, so all these other steps are just confusing me.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

BDCCruze said:


> Folks,
> 
> I want to do this repair myself just to resolve a possible electrical issue I'm having. But looking at the repair steps, it seems a lot of other cables need to be removed and other parts are listed. Look at steps 5 and on at this link, why do we need to do all that to replace a cable with just 2 bolts?
> 
> ...


I did mine in March, took about 15 minutes with simple hand tools. Easy Peazy. 

Be sure to pass the new cable through the ‘loop’ that monitors current/voltage flow. Other than that it’s pretty straight forward, just connect both ends like the original.

During install I ran into a small glitch. The new cable did not have the small threaded-stud side terminal on the battery end. A small secondary ground cable attaches to this post. 

I tried to remove the stud from the old cable using vise grips but no joy.

So I dug through the tool box and found an old jet ski battery battery bolt. It fit perfectly into the threaded hole.

RED - Old cable end showing threaded stud
GREEN - New cable installed with jet ski battery bolt



So just a note, if you order a cable online be prepared to ‘modify’ as needed to attach the small secondary ground cable at the battery end should yours come the way mine did.

More details HERE starting with post #200


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

Rivergoer said:


> I did mine in March, took about 15 minutes with simple hand tools. Easy Peazy.
> 
> Be sure to pass the new cable through the ‘loop’ that monitors current/voltage flow. Other than that it’s pretty straight forward, just connect both ends like the original.
> 
> ...


I ran into that same glitch. I just took the old battery cable to my local hardware store, measured the thread on the stud, and paid like 14 cents for a screw that matched it.


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