# Oil in spark plug well



## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

Hi guys I’m looking for a little help here . My wife has 2014 Cruze RS LTZ 1.4 turbo. 77k on the odometer. She’s been having starting and stalling issues here lately. It has the push button start. After starting the cars in the morning (cold start) or after sitting for a couple hours the car will start with a rough idle for 10-15 seconds then either return to normal idle or stall out . Today it took 4 attempts before she could get the car running . So I decided to hit the forum and see what similar issues I could find. Everything I searched seemed to lead back to the Pcv for other users. While I was looking into this I checked the air filter (k&n typhoon) , the MAF sensor and the plugs . I took off the cover for the ignition coil, took off the coil to get to the plugs and much to my surprise I found oil in every single spark plug well. Initially my mind went back to the pcv info I was looking up before thinking I was blowing oil out and it made its way down into the well. But looking closely I could not find and oil trails leading into the wells. And I was baffled to think it would go into all 4. I pulled the plugs and let the oil drain back into the engine. Checked the plugs and they need replacing . I also noticed oil hanging on the lip of the head where it meets the spark plug sleeve. I decided to wipe out what I could and put it back together and run around the block. When I got back I took it back apart again and found some more oil hanging on that lip. Is there a chance my head is seeping oil into the spark plug well? Also want to add that I have no engine codes and runs fine once it stays running. Only noticeable difference is a small loss on fuel mileage .


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> Hi guys I’m looking for a little help here . My wife has 2014 Cruze RS LTZ 1.4 turbo. 77k on the odometer. She’s been having starting and stalling issues here lately. It has the push button start. After starting the cars in the morning (cold start) or after sitting for a couple hours the car will start with a rough idle for 10-15 seconds then either return to normal idle or stall out . Today it took 4 attempts before she could get the car running . So I decided to hit the forum and see what similar issues I could find. Everything I searched seemed to lead back to the Pcv for other users. While I was looking into this I checked the air filter (k&n typhoon) , the MAF sensor and the plugs . I took off the cover for the ignition coil, took off the coil to get to the plugs and much to my surprise I found oil in every single spark plug well. Initially my mind went back to the pcv info I was looking up before thinking I was blowing oil out and it made its way down into the well. But looking closely I could not find and oil trails leading into the wells. And I was baffled to think it would go into all 4. I pulled the plugs and let the oil drain back into the engine. Checked the plugs and they need replacing . I also noticed oil hanging on the lip of the head where it meets the spark plug sleeve. I decided to wipe out what I could and put it back together and run around the block. When I got back I took it back apart again and found some more oil hanging on that lip. Is there a chance my head is seeping oil into the spark plug well? Also want to add that I have no engine codes and runs fine once it stays running. Only noticeable difference is a small loss on fuel mileage .



Check with local chevrolet dealership if valve cover still under powertrain or special warranty on your vehicle.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

It should be . I’m going to take it in and see what they say but I was really curious how the oil made it into the wells when there is no evidence of a pathway the oil traveled to get in there . I looked all along the valve cover and the pcv .


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## Jondaytona (Apr 26, 2018)

Typically oil around the spark plugs like that is going to be the gasket in the valve cover. I've replaced quite a few on various vehicles that had that problem. I would also guess that is not related to your rough cold starts. I agree that changing spark plugs with "OE" style would be a good place to start since it's pretty cheap and easy to do yourself. Wouldn't hurt at 75,000miles.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Check your exhaust when rough startup occurs to confirm you're not burning off oil through the cylinders. 

If oil is leaking in to the cylinders. That would cause a rough idle till oil clears out.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

Hey guys sorry for the delay getting back to the post. I appreciate the help. So the following day of my original post the car stalled out at a stop light. My wife got it started after a few attempts and the dealer was right down the road so I had her drop it off to see what they said about the oil in the wells . 

They searched and searched for 2 days trying to find the source of the oil. The only soulution they came up with was the oil must have been from when they changed the cam cover/ valve cover for the pcv vent nearly 2 years ago. I let it slide and could see that happening but I also think that the oil would have singed and burned a little bit in there and not have been so clean looking. 

Anyway in the process of their diagnosis they found the water pump to be leaking a little and replaced that for the second time . 

On the rough idle stalling issue they determined the MAF sensor was at fault and the cold air intake was the source of the failure. They wanted $425 to replace . That is insane for a $100 part and a few minutes of labor. But who knows maybe it took them awhile to determine that. I declined them the work, payed the $80 service fee for finding the problem. 

They told my wife that they had cleaned the sensor and it should help till I replace the sensor. I got the car home and pulled the sensor right away. It was still dirty and had t been touched! I cleaned it up with some crc . The car ran fine the following day. I ordered a maf sensor which will be in this morning sometime . 

Yesterday it started acting up again but worse. Car started fine and drove for 2 hrs while my wife was out and about. She goes to leave the ball field she was at with the kiddos and the car takes 5 times to start. It’s 95 degrees out and she starts losing her mind over this. I have her drive straight to my dads house and pick up the spare car until I can get there and check it out. It dies on the way at a stop light 

When I get to the car I pull the maf sensor and it’s still looking good from when I cleaned it . Pull the ignition coil to see if oil had returned into the wells. It looks good also, no oil. Pull the pcv hose from the intake and check for the check valve. The hole is CAKED in oil. Not a little but a **** ton but the orange valve is still in there . I do the the gross part and put the pcv hose in my mouth and blow through it which is also caked in thick layer of wet oil. It blows through fine. I then suck through it, I can feel and hear the check valve on the turbo side of the hose slide but It did not stop air from traveling back. I could suck or blow through the hose freely. I assume that is a problem. 

What do you guys think? And should there be that much oil in the hose and intake check valve area? It’s not baked on oil , it’s a thick wet layer ! After all that I put it back together start the car and it idled rough and a big puff of blue tinted smoke can rolling out of the tail pipe.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

So soon as the sensor comes in this morning I’m going to change the maf sensor and the spark plugs and see what results I I get . I’ll let you guys know.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Post a pic of the plugs.


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> So soon as the sensor comes in this morning I’m going to change the maf sensor and the spark plugs and see what results I I get . I’ll let you guys know.



I would take it to the dealership because they didn't check the entire system or just show them the pictures you took.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

It will be going back to the dealership. In the morning. I wasn’t really confident on my diagnosis of the pcv by-pass hose. I drove the 50 miles to my parents house to check it out again. I couldnt let my mind wonder anymore. 

I took the bypass completely off instead of just on the intake end. I did the suck and blow test (gross I know) from the turbo inlet side. Check valve WORKED! So I start inspecting closer. When I blew from the other end I failed to realized the c-clip grooves are cut all the way through the connector. DOH!! 

Hose is good. When taking it off the k&n CAI to to get down to the turbo side of the connector I realized the rubber reducing elbow that connects the cone filter housing to the turbo inlet is torn. I’m about to head to the parts store to get something for that and pick up that MAF sensor. 

Now the really bad news and what I believe to be the source of all my troubles. When I first started on the car this morning I pull all the plugs and looked into every cylinder . First cylinder on left looked damp but no standing liquid. Other 3 cylinders were bone dry. I put the plugs back in. Started the car, rough idle , moderate amount white smoke out the back. Took videos for the dealership to see. Ran for maybe 2 mins tops. Shut it down and started doing all diagnostics explained above^. Went to put everything back together and decided to peek down in the cylinders again. First cylinder had a 1/4” of coolant sitting in in, other 3 were dry. So head gasket it is !


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> It will be going back to the dealership. In the morning. I wasn’t really confident on my diagnosis of the pcv by-pass hose. I drove the 50 miles to my parents house to check it out again. I couldnt let my mind wonder anymore.
> 
> I took the bypass completely off instead of just on the intake end. I did the suck and blow test (gross I know) from the turbo inlet side. Check valve WORKED! So I start inspecting closer. When I blew from the other end I failed to realized the c-clip grooves are cut all the way through the connector. DOH!!
> 
> ...





At least it failed before warranty expired


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

snowwy66 said:


> Post a pic of the plugs.


Sorry just noticed this comment. The number 1 plug was a little discolored . The other 3 were fine. Just a little warn and out of the gap spec. Car is all put back together waiting for the tow truck now


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

That’s what I’m saying misperros16! Now the big question is will the dealer take the time and effort to check the head for warping or have it milled if needed or replace the head as well.... probably not


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> That’s what I’m saying misperros16! Now the big question is will the dealer take the time and effort to check the head for warping or have it milled if needed or replace the head as well.... probably not



There's some chance they will try to blame it on the car owner too.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

A little update for those interested. The Cruze was towed to the dealer. They took about 2 days to concede that there was a head gasket issue . Then they took another 3 days going back and forth with GM on warranty repair validations. They said GM didn’t like the cold air intake on the car. By day 5 of the car just sitting there in their shop I finally went in to see the manager to figure out the hold. Told him I don’t care if gm likes the CAI or not. It’s my right to put it on and their duty to prove it caused the problem at hand. I was pretty shitty about it this point . The next morning surprise surprise everything was approved to move forward. 

Over the next couple days they got the head off and to my surprise sent it out to the machine shop to be checked for warpage. Yesterday I got news the machine shop found a crack in the head during their inspections. The dealership is ordering a new head this morning and hope to have the car done by next Thursday.


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## KillerDad (Jan 25, 2018)

wow, at least it will be fixed. Dealers are so shady with warranties.


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> A little update for those interested. The Cruze was towed to the dealer. They took about 2 days to concede that there was a head gasket issue . Then they took another 3 days going back and forth with GM on warranty repair validations. They said GM didn’t like the cold air intake on the car. By day 5 of the car just sitting there in their shop I finally went in to see the manager to figure out the hold. Told him I don’t care if gm likes the CAI or not. It’s my right to put it on and their duty to prove it caused the problem at hand. I was pretty shitty about it this point . The next morning surprise surprise everything was approved to move forward.
> 
> Over the next couple days they got the head off and to my surprise sent it out to the machine shop to be checked for warpage. Yesterday I got news the machine shop found a crack in the head during their inspections. The dealership is ordering a new head this morning and hope to have the car done by next Thursday.


Did the dealership fix your car?


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

Yes , They replaced the head along with all the associated gaskets and torque to yield bolts, coolant, and oil. All covered under warranty fortunately


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> Yes , They replaced the head along with all the associated gaskets and torque to yield bolts, coolant, and oil. All covered under warranty fortunately


Glad everything work out.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

Thank you. But now I got a intermittent CEL for P0420 . The light has went off and on a couple times the past 2 days. It’s a permanently stored code now. I’m going to get a IR thermometer and shoot the front and back of the cat to see if it’s clogged up. It doesn’t smell bad at the time


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## alexhatcher (Dec 22, 2016)

Bitterfitter said:


> I took the bypass completely off instead of just on the intake end. I did the suck and blow test (gross I know) from the turbo inlet side.


next time, take a disposable glove, shove glove thumb over the inlet pipe end, cut hole . much less oil in mouth.


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## Bitterfitter (Jun 26, 2018)

alexhatcher said:


> Bitterfitter said:
> 
> 
> > I took the bypass completely off instead of just on the intake end. I did the suck and blow test (gross I know) from the turbo inlet side.
> ...



Good idea ! 
I never claimed to be smart ?


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## misperros16 (May 21, 2018)

Bitterfitter said:


> Thank you. But now I got a intermittent CEL for P0420 . The light has went off and on a couple times the past 2 days. It’s a permanently stored code now. I’m going to get a IR thermometer and shoot the front and back of the cat to see if it’s clogged up. It doesn’t smell bad at the time


I might be wrong but you can check on [https://my.gm.com/home] if you vehicle emission warranty can help you with that.


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