# 2015 TDI Cruze P2453 and P2454 error codes



## obnxous (Jan 17, 2018)

2015 Diesel Cruze, Automatic, 42k miles.

I purchased this car Sept 2017 with 32k miles. Since then I've had to have the grill shutter fixed at the stealership ($500) because of a GM warranty block I wasn't made aware of before buying the car. Now it only has 42k miles on it and the SES light is on again. Now the codes are P2453 and P2454. Seriously the DPF shouldn't be getting clogged after only 42k miles.

I drive 45 miles to work each way. 90 miles per day between 50 - 80 mph. Ive never witnessed a regen to my knowledge.

Thoughts?


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## obnxous (Jan 17, 2018)

also, not sure what others are making on these cars, I was expecting 46+ mpg, but the best I've ever made is 42mpg. It stays around 38 mostly depending on where I fill up.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Welcome to the forum.. 

First before some die hard VW types yell at you, technically only VW is TDI, the trademarked the term apparently, and I had them yell at me already to be corrected. Yours is the LUZ engine, Cruze TD (Turbo Diesel).

Those codes appear to be a DPF SENSOR issue. It is possible the wiring to your differential pressure sensor is damaged, you have a bad connector, or even bad sensor. There are other codes for DPF performance that you would expect for a DPF issue, that said.. with a bad sensor it might inhibit other codes. 

Having bought the car used, I'd be concerned about the car having proper service, and proper oil. Many things can affect the DPF. 

You have definitely had many regens in the time you have had the car, unless you have a specific reader like Scan Guage 2 or other, you won't see a regen, unless you know what to look for. They go every 300-900 miles depending on many factors, fuel, drive patterns, etc. 

The good news, your drive profile is a good one for keeping the DPF happy, hopefully the fix will be easy, it's not likely the DPF, more likely the D/P sensor.. Hope that helps.

Also, your MPG is a bit on the lower side of what most people get. I would recommend cleaning the MAP sensor, and O2 sensor, that might help you see an MPG boost, others have seen it. There is a DIY section, I seem to recall threads there explaining how to do it, it is pretty easy and quick, and both are not hard to get to on the engine. I used to have 2 Gen 1 LUZ cars, and one always did better on MPG than the other, but the O2 sensor and MAP clean closed that gap between the 2.


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## Taxman (Aug 10, 2017)

And the GM trademarked name for the engine is Clean Turbo Diesel, or CTD. 
Slightly awkward, because the Dodge owners have been saying Cummins Turbo Diesel, or CTD, since about 1989.


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## belome (Sep 30, 2016)

MRO1791 said:


> First before some die hard VW types yell at you


Yeah buddy! Here is my VW.

[fine fine... I guess I can't post photos from my computer... you can imagine it in your head.]


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## obnxous (Jan 17, 2018)

MR01791,
Thank you! Lots of good info there. I'm just used to the term TDI because of the 2 2011's I had to trade in. I tried to keep my M6/Jetta with 170k but the EGR cooler was apparently plugged when I took it in for the fix and VW refused to eat the bill, making the buyback a more lucrative offer for me. I did like that car, but didn't realize how loud the interior was until getting the Cruze.
I will look at the DIY section for which O2 sensor to clean and how to properly clean the MAF. FWIW, I had the oil changed at the stealership when I had the grill shutter replaced. They actually charged for a Duramax oil change. ($90) I'm like, WTF? They said its because "its a diesel". Im like, Its not even made by the same manufacturer idiot and doesn't take the same amount of oil as the a Duramax. That's the last money they will see from me. Which leads me to my next question.

What DEXOS2 oil can we use that I can buy? I used to take my VWs to the dealer but they were using oil that I couldn't find in the stores and it was only $59 for the manufacturer approved Synthentic oil, Castrol Syntec OE at $9 a quart if I were to buy it myself. Sure, Ill pay $20 for someone else to do it and top off fluids. ;-)

Last night I discovered the auto start would not work if there are codes set. So, I cleared the codes. 100+ miles later and they haven't returned. Wondering if a bump caused a quick loss of connectivity? Ill keep an eye on it.

Thanks for the replies.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

obnxous said:


> What DEXOS2 oil can we use that I can buy? I used to take my VWs to the dealer but they were using oil that I couldn't find in the stores and it was only $59 for the manufacturer approved Synthentic oil, Castrol Syntec OE at $9 a quart if I were to buy it myself. Sure, Ill pay $20 for someone else to do it and top off fluids. ;-)


The most popular premium oil is probably the AMSOil 5w-30 European at $13/qt. or $50/gal.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...ropean-car-formula-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/ 

The most popular economically-priced oil is the Penzoil Platinum Euro L at $22.47 for a 5 quart jug from Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-Platinum-Euro-5W-30-Motor-Oil-5-qt/179202222

I also used the Castrol 5w-30 C3, bought from Amazon, for a while, but the cost wasn't much less than the AMSOil for an oil that was comparable in quality to the Penzoil. So, once Walmart picked up the Penzoil in-store at half the price of Amazon, I switched to that


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

obnxous said:


> MR01791,
> 
> I will look at the DIY section for which O2 sensor to clean and how to properly clean the MAF. FWIW, I had the oil changed at the stealership when I had the grill shutter replaced. They actually charged for a Duramax oil change. ($90) I'm like, WTF? They said its because "its a diesel". Im like, Its not even made by the same manufacturer idiot and doesn't take the same amount of oil as the a Duramax. That's the last money they will see from me. Which leads me to my next question.
> 
> ...


The Rev took care of the oil question, the Walmart Penzoil is going to be impossible to beat on price, I've also used the Amsoil as well. You can find others via Amazon, and there are reasonably priced kits from IDParts, who also did same for VW TDI's. They are expanding into the GM Diesels as well, and seem to have reasonable prices for the kits they offer, and choices for Dexos 2 oil as well. 

Now, unless the new Duramax is running Dexos 2 also, they used to run different oil, CJ-4 if I recall correctly. Hopefully that dealership provided the correct oil.. the worst part of any GM car is that many dealerships are a bit shady, to be mild.. some are good, some not so much.. it's all over the map... Now that does not seem to be a problem isolated to GM.. but it's a problem. 

It is possible those codes were intermittent.. but I've not seen them pop up in prior threads.. so there is nothing I've seen to go on. There is a certain set of parameters that must be met to generate a DTC, it might not be back yet because there is typically a number of drive cycles required with a parameter out of range before a code is set, this to prevent too many spurious DTCs and dealership visits.. sometimes a condition will clear on it's own, and will never set a DTC at all. 

Next thread you start, go to the Gen1 Diesel section of the site, you'll get more of us Diesel fanatics in that area of the forum. I'll attach the data from the GM tech authority tables for your codes..


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## obnxous (Jan 17, 2018)

Thanks again MRO1791.

Another 50 miles and still no codes. Running like "new" again. Filled up on the way home yesterday. 38.x mpg again. Tank before I hit 42mpg (expected) on Kum&Go diesel. so that's what I put in last night.

I'm going to end up doing my own mx on this car, I just know it. Ive already changed the fuel filter and the air filter, so oil change can't be that hard. That last stealership charged $120 per hour for labor. That's just ridiculous in any field. Ive found most of the GM dealerships around my area are shady AF. Can't trust anyone to do the work.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Yes, dealerships now make very little on the sale of the car, so they make it up in the service department, or on under value of the trade-in car. I also have trust issues with service departments, because they've screwed up things on multiple cars, over multiple dealerships over the years.. normally they only see warranty work from me, or if it is a free service.. event then I have trust issues.. because its far too common for them to screw something up. Perhaps it really is hard for them to get good help, or they just don't try.. 

The oil change is actually pretty easy, make sure you have the right large socket, don't recall the size, maybe 24mm, to get the oil filter cap off, and loosen it, let it drain via the provided spout into you catch pan.. don't wing it off or you'll have an oil bath for sure. It appears tricky to get to, but once you do it a couple of times, it's actually not bad, I appreciate being able to do it from above, rather than below the car. I'd sill clean your O2 sensor, and MAP sensor. You should get better MPG, and they are easy to get to and clean.


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## obnxous (Jan 17, 2018)

do you have a link to the DIY's on how to clean the O2 sensor? I have the MAF cleaner from working on my daughters car, but not sure what detergent to use on the O2 sensors and which ones to do it to. I have searched the DIY sections for the answers but didn't see any info on the cleaning of the MAF or O2 sensors.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Helpful links:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/169-...ibrary/40489-cruze-diesel-oil-change-diy.html

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...-mileage-loss-fix-clean-map-sensor-again.html

It’s actually the MAP sensor, this link will explain further along with info on the O2 as well.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

obnxous said:


> do you have a link to the DIY's on how to clean the O2 sensor? I have the MAF cleaner from working on my daughters car, but not sure what detergent to use on the O2 sensors and which ones to do it to. I have searched the DIY sections for the answers but didn't see any info on the cleaning of the MAF or O2 sensors.


There is a thread on the location of the sensors. The O2 is kinda near the center of the DPF, there is a NOx and EGT sensor upstream, higher up. You'll need a O2 sensor tool, but they are easy to get and cheap. Follow the wire to the plug, if you want to remove it from the car, or you could clean it while still connected. Compressed air would be helpful, I also used some carburator cleaner. It's about a 25 minute job, same for the MAP sensor. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Here is a picture from the DPF delete thread showing the sensor location for the O2 sensor









Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## grumpygy (Oct 20, 2016)

I have a 2014 Diesel Cruze. Waiting for the local Chevrolet to open. So I can take it in because my check engine light came on. Checked the code P2453. 3rd time I have been in for this. Just turned 80,000,but it should still be covered. I have a letter from Chevy extending my warranty for this condition to 120000 miles.


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## grumpygy (Oct 20, 2016)

Had to add 38mpg city/freeway. But straight freeway I have seen 55mpg while running 70mph.


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## hamhog (Jul 19, 2020)

My 2014 Cruze diesel has almost 40K miles on it and I keep getting these P2453 codes at times. I experience rough engine running almost like a car with spark plugs with a misfire problem but I know there are no spark plugs in a diesel. Every time i take it to the dealer and they take a test drive the rough running stops and most of the time no code shows too. The DEF tank is full so no issue there unless the fluid is not getting into the exhaust system as it should. When the car had about 5K miles on it there was a code that popped up where the dealer had to replace the DEF tank because it had a pump in it from what i can remember. So can a rough running engine be part of this P2453 code? Would a partially clogged DPF cause rough running engine?


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## BarbS (Mar 13, 2021)

grumpygy said:


> I have a 2014 Diesel Cruze. Waiting for the local Chevrolet to open. So I can take it in because my check engine light came on. Checked the code P2453. 3rd time I have been in for this. Just turned 80,000,but it should still be covered. I have a letter from Chevy extending my warranty for this condition to 120000 miles.


Hi, Do you have a link to this warranty covered to 120000 miles? Or a copy of the letter? I never received a letter. I've been able to find some of the other emissions problems that are covered to 120000 online and have them printed out. I want to be armed when I go to the Dealer. Thanks so much!


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## Ben H (Apr 15, 2021)

hamhog said:


> My 2014 Cruze diesel has almost 40K miles on it and I keep getting these P2453 codes at times. I experience rough engine running almost like a car with spark plugs with a misfire problem but I know there are no spark plugs in a diesel. Every time i take it to the dealer and they take a test drive the rough running stops and most of the time no code shows too. The DEF tank is full so no issue there unless the fluid is not getting into the exhaust system as it should. When the car had about 5K miles on it there was a code that popped up where the dealer had to replace the DEF tank because it had a pump in it from what i can remember. So can a rough running engine be part of this P2453 code? Would a partially clogged DPF cause rough running engine?


I have been having the same problem for a while now on my 2014 Cruze which has just over 79k miles on it... About once every 1k-2k miles I will notice the car start running rough and the fuel economy drops suddenly. Sometimes the car can really start bucking at lower speeds. This persists for about 25 miles or so and then it stops as suddenly as it came on. The engine runs smooth, fuel economy jumps back to normal, and--if the check engine light came on--after a few ignition cycles the check engine light turns itself off. This makes it pretty problematic to have the dealer diagnose the problem. It is the same P2453 code. Were you able to figure out the problem? Can you share a copy of that letter you received?


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