# Sticky  Centric OE Brake Kit Upgrade



## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

DO a 60-0 test now and compare them to when you break in your new pads and rotors


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## Austin9991 (Oct 7, 2013)

Xtreme, what about the rear brakes?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Austin9991 said:


> Xtreme, what about the rear brakes?


I have drums on the rear and they seem to be in good shape. If those bother me, I will probably either replace them or have them turned. There's really no sense in spending good money on rear brakes when they only do like 15-20% of the braking.


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## ace2123 (Jan 17, 2015)

Where did you buy them from? They don't sell directly. So which supplier?


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## Austin9991 (Oct 7, 2013)

So if I have discs in the rear I still shouldn't really worry about it?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Austin9991 said:


> So if I have discs in the rear I still shouldn't really worry about it?


Correct. Unless they are pulsating, just leave them alone.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

ace2123 said:


> Where did you buy them from? They don't sell directly. So which supplier?


I snagged the last two rotors off Amazon and the brake pads off Amazon as well. I'll have to ask Jerry to see if he can get them on his website for order.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I changed my brakes today, and validated the reason why I chose semi-metallic pads. After 50k miles, the ceramic pads had just over 1/2 of their pad life left. 










Compare new vs old:









During that 50k miles, the rotor wore pretty severely. Take a look at the ridge left on the outside and inside of the pad contact area to see just how much brake rotor material was worn down by the OE pads.


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## datman7890 (May 7, 2012)

My front rotors are also warped at 52k and have been looking around at whats available. Were do you see these being g3500? Everywhere I look says g3000

EDIT: NVM I see this is the 120 series not 121 they are 3500 Will be ordering once I can find them


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I figured I would provide an update here. I've had some time to use this kit. Replacing the rotors entirely eliminated all pulsation I had in my brakes. I suspected some was in the rear, but I was happy to find out that my suspicion was incorrect. That was a pleasant surprise. Looks like our rear drums will last a very long time. 

On to the performance. Initial impression was that there is less initial "bite" with these pads. I decided not to jump the gun and to give them a bit more time. After a few hundred miles, the pads and rotors wore in a bit better, and I'm happy to report that the initial "bite" of the pads is the same or better than the OEM ceramics. The pads are indeed very quiet, and emergency stopping is better than the OE ceramic pads. I'm very happy with the results so far, and would confidently recommend these to anyone looking for an upgrade. I've made this thread a sticky so others can refer to it when the time comes to replace their brakes.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

Now that you have had some time with them, how does the amount of brake dust compare to the OEM ceramic pads?


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## chris10 (Oct 22, 2014)

.....I just got to the point of "I don't need to do anything more to the car" and then you come along with your brake upgrade that I now must do. My wife will probably ban me from this site now.....


But seriously, thanks for all the info!


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

BowtieGuy said:


> Now that you have had some time with them, how does the amount of brake dust compare to the OEM ceramic pads?


To be honest, I still haven't noticed much in the way of brake dust yet. I'll have to give that a bit more time though.


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## Hood Star (Sep 24, 2014)

I went with the powerslot brakes and rotors. I agree these don't need very very high brakes my braking is almost really hard to put down. I'd go semi mettillac next time


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## Cruzen1894 (Jul 22, 2015)

Hello everyone. I'm new to the Cruzetalk forums but have been perusing these forums for the better part of 2 years since owning my 2013 2LT Cruze. 

To start, Xtreme, I just want to say that your How-To on replacing front pads and rotors was very helpful. I've done front pads and rotors on other cars before but being the first time with the Cruze it was nice to refer back to a nice write up. My Cruze, with 86,000 miles on it also developed pulsation in the brake pedal and I knew it was time for new brakes. I ordered the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and standard rotors from Raybestos. Probably a little overkill on the pads but never using Hawk pads before wanted to give them a shot. So far the braking performance has been great and have a nice/firm pedal feel under braking. 

My problem lies with my pads rattling (right and left side). I've replaced the anit-rattle shims twice with two different kits. One kit from Raybestos and the other kit was Brake Best (O'Reillys Auto Parts brand). The rattle improved with the O'Reillys kit but its still there and only occurs if I hit a sharp bump softer bumps produce no rattle. I have contacted Hawk to confirm that I have the correct pads and contacted Raybestos to confirm I have the correct rotor size. I'm running out of ideas as to what maybe causing my brake rattle. I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea or point me in a direction. Thank you for your time reading this.


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## danielp23 (May 14, 2013)

I just recently added new rotors and pads and I've got the same pads. So far I've been really happy with them and the pads barely leave dust. Been happy with the setup and can re-recommend getting the same pads.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I


Cruzen1894 said:


> Hello everyone. I'm new to the Cruzetalk forums but have been perusing these forums for the better part of 2 years since owning my 2013 2LT Cruze.
> 
> To start, Xtreme, I just want to say that your How-To on replacing front pads and rotors was very helpful. I've done front pads and rotors on other cars before but being the first time with the Cruze it was nice to refer back to a nice write up. My Cruze, with 86,000 miles on it also developed pulsation in the brake pedal and I knew it was time for new brakes. I ordered the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and standard rotors from Raybestos. Probably a little overkill on the pads but never using Hawk pads before wanted to give them a shot. So far the braking performance has been great and have a nice/firm pedal feel under braking.
> 
> My problem lies with my pads rattling (right and left side). I've replaced the anit-rattle shims twice with two different kits. One kit from Raybestos and the other kit was Brake Best (O'Reillys Auto Parts brand). The rattle improved with the O'Reillys kit but its still there and only occurs if I hit a sharp bump softer bumps produce no rattle. I have contacted Hawk to confirm that I have the correct pads and contacted Raybestos to confirm I have the correct rotor size. I'm running out of ideas as to what maybe causing my brake rattle. I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea or point me in a direction. Thank you for your time reading this.


Hawk HPS are more of a performance pad if I'm not mistaken and are generally more noisy. I would assume at this point that the pad is the culprit as nobody else is reporting your issue.

The only other possible problem would be the slide boots on the caliper. Those occasionally need replacing.


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## Cruzen1894 (Jul 22, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I
> 
> Hawk HPS are more of a performance pad if I'm not mistaken and are generally more noisy. I would assume at this point that the pad is the culprit as nobody else is reporting your issue.
> 
> The only other possible problem would be the slide boots on the caliper. Those occasionally need replacing.




Sorry I didn't reply back sooner. Yeah the HPS 5.0 pads are more of a performance pad, just didn't figure they would make that much noise but I agree, I think its just a characteristic of these pads. I'm fine with that know that. Thanks for the tip on the slide boots. I haven't had time to change them out but should this weekend. I wouldn't have thought that those could make a difference but will give it a shot. After another week with the pads I haven't noticed anything weird while braking, so we'll see how they do long term.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

may I also add from my experience that semi metallic bite harder in cold range of operation temps vs ceramics that like to bite hard when warm. for a daily I always go semi metallic, on my sports cars, and motorcycles


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

> Sorry I didn't reply back sooner. Yeah the HPS 5.0 pads are more of a performance pad, just didn't figure they would make that much noise but I agree, I think its just a characteristic of these pads. I'm fine with that know that. Thanks for the tip on the slide boots. I haven't had time to change them out but should this weekend. I wouldn't have thought that those could make a difference but will give it a shot. After another week with the pads I haven't noticed anything weird while braking, so we'll see how they do long term.


 did you follow the hawk brake burnishing procedure? many guys at autocross running many high performance pads will have heavy squeak and make noise but is much worse if they don't burnish the pads as the manufacturer says to do so


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## Cruzen1894 (Jul 22, 2015)

pandrad61 said:


> did you follow the hawk brake burnishing procedure? many guys at autocross running many high performance pads will have heavy squeak and make noise but is much worse if they don't burnish the pads as the manufacturer says to do so


Yes, followed the instructions as described on the back of the box they came in and also referred to Hawks website. Its not a squeak, its definitely a rattle as when I'm on the brakes they are super quiet and the rattle subsides until pressure is released and they rattle again when hitting a sharp bump. Normal road bumps don't produce the rattle.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

have you contacted hawk? im sure if you get a video they will send you a new set of pads.


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## Poje (Aug 2, 2012)

On my ZZP 12'' brake kit, i use Centric rotors with Hawk HP plus pads. This is the best combo of the 3 i tried and with this combo, i was able to do 20min sessions of none-stop lapping on my local racetrack.

I only use Centric rotors from now on, they are good quality and they have a Powder coated center.

Hawk HP plus pads are the best performance pads you can buy imo, just b4 racing pads. They are a bit noisy, but not like a racing pads and you can use them w/o needing to warm them up. They are the most extreme pads you can have for the street.


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## chris10 (Oct 22, 2014)

Just purchased front + rear rotors and pads for $199.70 shipped. Takes some looking, but deals are out there.


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## pandrad61 (Jul 8, 2015)

> On my ZZP 12'' brake kit, i use Centric rotors with Hawk HP plus pads. This is the best combo of the 3 i tried and with this combo, i was able to do 20min sessions of none-stop lapping on my local racetrack.


what calipers and rotors are they in the kit? is I a common rotor I can go to the store and order


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

I ordered these pads because my OE rotors pulsed within 12k (PA hills kill brakes, lol). Interestingly enough, the replacement rotors GM gave me were made in the USA. After 4k on these rotors, something seems a bit off again so hopefully changing the pads will prevent these rotors from being eaten up too. I'll report back once I've changed the pads and driven on them.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

If you are starting to get pulsation in your brakes, and it has been about 3-5K miles since you rotated or changed your tires, I would suggest trying to retorque your wheels before replacing your rotors. 

The most common cause of pulsation is improperly torqued wheels. When you tighten your wheels incorrectly it preloads the rotors and causes them to flex slightly. Then, when the brakes get hot the rotors expand unevenly. Ceramic pads will slowly transfer material to the high spot. A few thousand miles later there will be a significant thickness variation that will cause pulsation. 

If you catch this early, and then properly tighten your wheels, the pulsation should noticeably decrease almost immediately. You will still notice a little pulsation for a while as the rotors start to wear correctly, but that should go away with time. If you catch it early then you could save yourself the money and hassle of having to replace your rotors and pads. If you don't catch it early then you might need to resurface or replace your rotors. However, it is always worth trying to tighten the wheels correctly before deciding to replace the rotors. 

Just like the aluminum heads on these cars, the alloy wheels must be tightened correctly. The wheel nuts must be tightened in a star pattern, and you should do it in at least 3 steps (I personally do it in about 5 steps just to be safe). Do a star pattern at a low torque, then increase to a medium torque. The final step should be to tighten each bold in a star pattern to 100 lbs.

Of course, if you really just want to try different brake pads, then don't do this and tell your wife that the rotors are warped and must be replaced, and that GM rotors suck so you need to buy the most expensive racing rotors you can find. LOL.


Edit: If you tighten the wheels correctly then you should not get pulsation and the rotors should last until the pads are worn out. Another less common cause for pulsation could be that the rotors were manufactured or resurfaced out-of-true with the hub, but if you have been driving your car for 50K miles before you get pulsation then that is probably not the problem.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Cruzen1894 said:


> ... I ordered the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and standard rotors from Raybestos. Probably a little overkill on the pads but never using Hawk pads before wanted to give them a shot. So far the braking performance has been great and have a nice/firm pedal feel under braking. My problem lies with my pads rattling (right and left side). ...


I have been seriously considering the Hawk pads for a while now. I have read a lot of good things about them on other sites. Many people say they have noticeably less dust and much better braking. I wonder if other people are having problems with the Hawks rattling? 

I am considering these:
HB706Z.714 | Hawk Performance


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> If you are starting to get pulsation in your brakes, and it has been about 3-5K miles since you rotated or changed your tires, I would suggest trying to retorque your wheels before replacing your rotors.
> 
> The most common cause of pulsation is improperly torqued wheels. When you tighten your wheels incorrectly it preloads the rotors and causes them to flex slightly. Then, when the brakes get hot the rotors expand unevenly. Ceramic pads will slowly transfer material to the high spot. A few thousand miles later there will be a significant thickness variation that will cause pulsation.
> 
> ...


Lol I don't have to worry about the wife problem right now! 

Thanks for the tip. I actually always make sure I torque my wheels with a torque wrench. Its nice to be able to get the wheel off if you have to, and know everything's right. My first set I think got ruined from me washing the car right after driving it. I think that caused an issue, but I can't be sure. I believe what I feel in this set is GM's pads being too hard and wearing the rotors. The Centric pads were only 35 bucks shipped from Rockauto, so I figured I'd give them a try.


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

jmlo96 said:


> Lol I don't have to worry about the wife problem right now!
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I actually always make sure I torque my wheels with a torque wrench. Its nice to be able to get the wheel off if you have to, and know everything's right. My first set I think got ruined from me washing the car right after driving it. I think that caused an issue, but I can't be sure. I believe what I feel in this set is GM's pads being too hard and wearing the rotors. The Centric pads were only 35 bucks shipped from Rockauto, so I figured I'd give them a try.


I have the Centric pads also. Got them from Rock Auto for less than $30 shipped over a year ago now. They've been on the car for over 14k miles now, and they still look like new. The stopping power compared to the stock pads is amazing. Mine pulsed at 12k miles and didn't stop good at all. I always torque my lugs with a torque wrench also.


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

Daryl said:


> I have the Centric pads also. Got them from Rock Auto for less than $30 shipped over a year ago now. They've been on the car for over 14k miles now, and they still look like new. The stopping power compared to the stock pads is amazing. Mine pulsed at 12k miles and didn't stop good at all. I always torque my lugs with a torque wrench also.


Looks like a good setup! I think the stock pads are really made just to last long and make no dust. I'm really not impressed with the bite they have when slowing down getting off the interstate, or stopping down a hill. Since these rotors are still basically new I'm just going to change the pads. I'll report back once I get them on and break them in.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

I really love the EBC rotors and Red-Stuff pads I used on my Jetta TDI when I did the Porsche Boxster 4-piston caliper upgrade up front!! I would really like to go this route with my Cruze and am hoping that the Cadillac ATS 4-piston caliper will work with the Cruze hubs!

My little TDI is one of the best braking cars I have ever driven and driving the Cruze is okay, but there is a significant difference in the braking ability.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Daryl said:


> I have the Centric pads also. Got them from Rock Auto for less than $30 shipped over a year ago now. They've been on the car for over 14k miles now, and they still look like new. The stopping power compared to the stock pads is amazing. Mine pulsed at 12k miles and didn't stop good at all. I always torque my lugs with a torque wrench also.


How is the dust on the Centric pads?


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

This morning I put my Centric pads on. I discovered that part of my issue was that one of the caliper slides wasn't moving, so my passenger side brakes were only 50 percent effective. When I compressed the caliper, I opened the bleeder instead of forcing the junk fluid back into the system. I couldn't believe what that fluid looked like after 17k. Already I noticed a huge difference in pedal feel and stopping power just driving down the street! My brake pedal feels very firm now and has no slack, much like the ATS's with Brembo brakes. I'm sure what I am noticing is a combo of the fixed caliber slide, fresh brake fluid, and new pads. 

Overall, I'm really happy. The next test will be when I come home from work stopping going down Rt 19, lol. My only complaint is that the Centric pads are made in China.


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## Daryl (Nov 10, 2013)

dhpnet said:


> How is the dust on the Centric pads?



It's not terrible. It seems like they give off around the normal amount. My wheels are black also so I'm sure that helps hide it some.


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

Daryl said:


> It's not terrible. It seems like they give off around the normal amount. My wheels are black also so I'm sure that helps hide it some.


I've had them on for about 500 miles now, and they definitely give off more than stock. I expected that though, because when you have a disk brake setup something has to wear. Either the rotor or the pads have to wear. Stock pads seemed to wear the rotor which is why they made minimal "dust." For anyone who doesn't want to deal with brake dust, then stick with ceramic pads. I sealed my wheels with paint sealant to help prevent the dust from sticking.

I will say though that I'm incredibly happy with the Centric Semi-Metallic pads. They bite so much better than the stock pads its unbelievable. I barely have to tap the brake pedal now to feel the brakes working. 

Pros:
-Stopping power greatly improved
-Much better heat resistance (eliminated the mild pulsation from stock pads)
-Quiet (no squealing so far in 500 miles) 

Cons
- Some Brake dust (not excessive, but more than stock)


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Xtreme & Others-

How have the Rotors survived through winter rust? Is the Centric E-Coating a marketing tactic or really a benefit over say a painted surface like Raybestos Advanced technology? Are the rotor hats of these rotors metal or a black finish? Centric doesn't seem to post many pictures on amazon or Rockauto. 

I'm looking for Rotors for a family members car, and I already have a set of Raybestos Advanced Technology pads, from a year or two ago when there were decent rebates on them. Looking at the pits in the rotors, they need to be replaced.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

EBC makes great rotors that they cast themselves in their own facilities...


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

jmlo96 said:


> I've had them on for about 500 miles now, and they definitely give off more than stock. I expected that though, because when you have a disk brake setup something has to wear. Either the rotor or the pads have to wear. Stock pads seemed to wear the rotor which is why they made minimal "dust." For anyone who doesn't want to deal with brake dust, then stick with ceramic pads. I sealed my wheels with paint sealant to help prevent the dust from sticking.
> 
> I will say though that I'm incredibly happy with the Centric Semi-Metallic pads. They bite so much better than the stock pads its unbelievable. I barely have to tap the brake pedal now to feel the brakes working.
> 
> ...


So I thought I'd give an update to these pads. Turns out my noise over bumps was these pads rattling. I put back in my OE pads and clips and the noise went away. Also, I am 99% sure all my gains in stopping power were due to the caliper slides working properly. When I put my OE pads back in, I actually think they stopped better when working correctly. 

Dust is another thing, holy crap do these pads dust for me. I'd wash the car and after a day of driving the wheels would be totally coated. Overall, I'm planning on sticking with the OEM brakes from here on out. Not trying to disregard anyone's results- these pads just don't work as well for my situation.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

jmlo96 said:


> So I thought I'd give an update to these pads. Turns out my noise over bumps was these pads rattling. I put back in my OE pads and clips and the noise went away. Also, I am 99% sure all my gains in stopping power were due to the caliper slides working properly. When I put my OE pads back in, I actually think they stopped better when working correctly.
> 
> Dust is another thing, holy crap do these pads dust for me. I'd wash the car and after a day of driving the wheels would be totally coated. Overall, I'm planning on sticking with the OEM brakes from here on out. Not trying to disregard anyone's results- these pads just don't work as well for my situation.


Wondering if you got some different pads than we did. I get dust too, but only after a solid month of driving, and neither mine, nor anyone I've ever talked to, had issues with rattling. 

The semi-metallic pads have much better fade resistance as well as reduced rotor wear. I feel like something wasn't right with yours.


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Wondering if you got some different pads than we did. I get dust too, but only after a solid month of driving, and neither mine, nor anyone I've ever talked to, had issues with rattling.
> 
> The semi-metallic pads have much better fade resistance as well as reduced rotor wear. I feel like something wasn't right with yours.


It's at all possible. I got them from Rock Auto. I always wonder about stuff being of Chinese counterfeit, and they did have a big made in China sticker on the box.


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## cruze01 (Mar 25, 2011)

I'm over 70K on the original pads. So far as I can tell they are still doing good and the rotors look perfect! I believe when I finally do need to replace them I'll go back to the dealer and get the OEM'S. I've never known pads and rotors to last as long as these have.


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

cruze01 said:


> I'm over 70K on the original pads. So far as I can tell they are still doing good and the rotors look perfect! I believe when I finally do need to replace them I'll go back to the dealer and get the OEM'S. I've never known pads and rotors to last as long as these have.


Mine are doing pretty good too. I found out the OE pads and rotors are made in the USA.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

cruze01 said:


> I'm over 70K on the original pads. So far as I can tell they are still doing good and the rotors look perfect! I believe when I finally do need to replace them I'll go back to the dealer and get the OEM'S. I've never known pads and rotors to last as long as these have.


Bear in mind, 71k miles of highway driving will be nowhere near as hard on brakes as 71k miles of Chicago urban city driving. My brake rotors were unevenly worn to uncomfortable (and annoying) pulsation by 50k miles.


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## cruze01 (Mar 25, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Bear in mind, 71k miles of highway driving will be nowhere near as hard on brakes as 71k miles of Chicago urban city driving. My brake rotors were unevenly worn to uncomfortable (and annoying) pulsation by 50k miles.


 Good point but I'm around 50/50 on the highway miles. I will admit though I am very easy on the breaks! No heavy foot here. Either way I'm very satisfied with the OEM'S.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

*Rotor diameter?*



XtremeRevolution said:


> I decided to replace my front brakes, which have recently begun pulsating, and wanted to create some discussion around this since I'm sure many people will be in my position soon if they aren't already. Here's what I bought.
> 
> Two Centric premium rotors. Part number 120.62130. ($57 Each Shipped on Amazon.com)
> CENTRIC PREMIUM BRAKE ROTORS - Centric Parts
> ...


X,

Nice write-up. I just purchased the Centric rotors, but was looking at the EBC Greenstuff 2000 pads. I was on the Autoanything website and was thrown for a loop. See attached. What diameter rotors are stock on a 2014 LT, 1.4l Turbo, with rear drums? The site lists two diameters. I'm thinking possibly they threw in the diesel rotors, even though I selected gas.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Pretty sure all but the diesel use the 10.9" rotor. 

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Thanks


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## gt_cristian (Apr 7, 2012)

Hi Extreme,

I just ordered a similar kit of my 2013 LT so 4 discs and pads. My pads did not come with any hardware. I bought them on RockAuto, they are looking into it for me.

Looking forward to install these. Thanks for the article!


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## gt_cristian (Apr 7, 2012)

jmlo96 said:


> It's at all possible. I got them from Rock Auto. I always wonder about stuff being of Chinese counterfeit, and they did have a big made in China sticker on the box.


Same for my pads from Rock Auto, PosiQuiet, made in China. I washed my rims and I got fine dust not even a week later, 300 miles of city driving.

I am also getting a lot of clicking at low speed braking gradually. I did not have this issue with the OEM set. I have been chasing this assuming it comes from the guide pins not sliding properly, but after adding grease, I got rid of the clicking noise for about 10 days on the passenger side, while the driver's side had been fine for about a month now. I still see the new dics grooves on the driver's side, but not on the passenger side, so something is wrong over there.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I noticed just the other day that there are several posi-quiet pads. They have the posit quiet, and the posi quiet extended life. Which one did you guys buy? I'm pretty sure I got the extended life ones.


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## gt_cristian (Apr 7, 2012)

Same for me. PosiQuiet Extended Life.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Mine didn't dust anywhere near that bad. In fact, I can take a picture of my Cruze, which hasn't been washed since Winter, and the wheels are still fairly clean.


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## mikestony (Jan 17, 2013)

gt_cristian said:


> Same for me. PosiQuiet Extended Life.


Was/Is the part number for those 106.15220? I just ordered them from Amazon and the Centric rotors from RockAuto. 

By the way, @​xtreme, it seems the link for the pads, 105.15220, in your OP are listed as ceramic at Amazon? .....that could have changed since the OP though


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

mikestony said:


> Was/Is the part number for those 106.15220? I just ordered them from Amazon and the Centric rotors from RockAuto.
> 
> By the way, @*xtr*eme, it seems the link for the pads, 105.15220, in your OP are listed as ceramic at Amazon? .....that could have changed since the OP though*
> 
> ...


I updated that and looks like I updated it to the wrong one. I'll correct it.


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## gt_cristian (Apr 7, 2012)

I recall the box said Made in China and it had a label on it that said "Lead". Probably yours were not made in China, who knows.


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## jmlo96 (May 2, 2015)

These were the pads I got.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Got pulsating at 76K miles. I see mentioned here the diesel has different brakes, anyone have experience with upgrading to Centrics on a diesel?

I tried searching the Diesel General Discussion forum but didn’t find much on brakes there. Thanks.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Rivergoer said:


> Got pulsating at 76K miles. I see mentioned here the diesel has different brakes, anyone have experience with upgrading to Centrics on a diesel?
> 
> I tried searching the Diesel General Discussion forum but didn’t find much on brakes there. Thanks.


There was the thought that we actually could potentially upgrade to the ATS Brembos, since they have the same lug pattern.

A member had actually bought a caliper to give it a shot, but never got to it before getting himself banned, hahaha.

If I happen across one cheap ATS caliper, maybe I'll pick one up and give it my own shot.


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