# Did the first oil change on my Cruze. Thoughts.



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Are you saying after you drain the pan, most of the oil didn't drain didn't drain with it from the oil filter canister?

Hmmm, something to look forward to, 04 Cavalier was that way, when I loosen the cap on that car, only get a few drops.

Which engine do you have? Still looking forward to my first oil change, owners manual is quite nebulous as to whether the Cruze is using break in oil or not. Changing that break in oil too soon can lead to improper piston ring break in . Dealer tells me to go by that oil life left indicator and the owners manual infers the same thing, with the only limit, the calendar, one year maximum. Even give you a grace period of an extra 600 miles when that indicator says 0% left.

According to that oil left gauge, still have about another 5,000 miles to go yet, still relatively clean and at the full mark.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Just did my first oil change on Saturday with 5500 miles on the clock. I didn't notice these issues at all. Both the drain plug and the oil filter cap have a torque spec on it, so I just used 2 extensions and a 1" socket to get the cap off, and used a torque wrench to get it back on with the correct torque spec. I also always use a funnel to fill the crank case with new oil, which left very little mess around the engine bay. The underbody panels leave just enough room to drain the oil cleanly. I think I got maybe a couple of drops on the inside of the pan, but not much else.


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## TObject (Apr 19, 2012)

It is unlikely that any special break-in oil is poured into the engine at first fill. But that does not mean the first fill is not different. What makes it different is assembly grease floating in that oil.

This is very important in the first few hours the engine is working. Past that I would not worry about it too much, as long as temperatures are within range and you see no foaming.

Investigate adding some Molly additive if you still worry.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Just did my first oil change on Saturday with 5500 miles on the clock. I didn't notice these issues at all. Both the drain plug and the oil filter cap have a torque spec on it, so I just used 2 extensions and a 1" socket to get the cap off, and used a torque wrench to get it back on with the correct torque spec. I also always use a funnel to fill the crank case with new oil, which left very little mess around the engine bay. The underbody panels leave just enough room to drain the oil cleanly. I think I got maybe a couple of drops on the inside of the pan, but not much else.


Haven't ran across the toque specs, yet, where did you find them?

Guess we can only speculate what kind of oil Lordstown poured in this thing, ha, wonder if it is even dexos 1 approved?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

NickD said:


> Haven't ran across the toque specs, yet, where did you find them?
> 
> Guess we can only speculate what kind of oil Lordstown poured in this thing, ha, wonder if it is even dexos 1 approved?


The torque spec for the drain plug is written on the oil pan right next to it. The torque spec for the filter cap is written on the cap itself. Both are written in newton-meters.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> The torque spec for the drain plug is written on the oil pan right next to it. The torque spec for the filter cap is written on the cap itself. Both are written in newton-meters.


Darn Xtreme if I may call you that for short, if you are not correct, had to get my trouble light out. 25 Nm that for us old timers is 18.439053731925 ft.-lbs. Would have never guessed that piece of plastic would be that much.

Drain plug will have to wait, its dark and scary down there, will have to wait until my wife gets home so she can hold my hand.


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Just did my first oil change on Saturday with 5500 miles on the clock. I didn't notice these issues at all. Both the drain plug and the oil filter cap have a torque spec on it, so I just used 2 extensions and a 1" socket to get the cap off, and used a torque wrench to get it back on with the correct torque spec. I also always use a funnel to fill the crank case with new oil, which left very little mess around the engine bay. The underbody panels leave just enough room to drain the oil cleanly. I think I got maybe a couple of drops on the inside of the pan, but not much else.


I was going to basically say the same thing. Now after 4 oil changes I would say this is one of the easier cars to change oil on.


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## mcg75 (Mar 5, 2012)

NickD said:


> Are you saying after you drain the pan, most of the oil didn't drain didn't drain with it from the oil filter canister?
> 
> Hmmm, something to look forward to, 04 Cavalier was that way, when I loosen the cap on that car, only get a few drops.
> 
> ...


I removed the canister and oil filter before draining the pan. 

The engine for the car is not built at Lordstown where the car is assembled. When the engine is built, it's started and tested at the factory. At that point, I'd believe the engine would be drained for shipping to Lordstown for assembly. 500k or 800kms is considered broken in. My car sat at the dealer for several months before I purchased it. I feel better having done it.


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## MetallicaMatt (Mar 26, 2012)

18 ft lbs? Crap, my torque wrench doesn't go down that low.

Guess I'll have to do the old "eh, seems tight enough" and check for leaks when I start it lol


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

mcg75 said:


> I removed the canister and oil filter before draining the pan.
> 
> The engine for the car is not built at Lordstown where the car is assembled. When the engine is built, it's started and tested at the factory. At that point, I'd believe the engine would be drained for shipping to Lordstown for assembly. 500k or 800kms is considered broken in. My car sat at the dealer for several months before I purchased it. I feel better having done it.


I'm tempted to leave the canister and oil filter in there when draining the oil next time. The oil came out a bit too fast for the type of pan I was using. Could have made a mess if it wasn't on level ground.


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## mcg75 (Mar 5, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I'm tempted to leave the canister and oil filter in there when draining the oil next time. The oil came out a bit too fast for the type of pan I was using. Could have made a mess if it wasn't on level ground.


This was the whole point of my post. Owners like you and I who care about what we're doing because it's our car, will be careful not to make a mess. 

Anyone else, including the dealership, most likely will not. And the setup of the Cruze can easily make a mess for someone trying to rush. The oil fill guns pump oil quite fast and because the camshaft is literally millimeters below the oil filler lip, you'd have to be very careful. 

But I'd always change the filter before doing the pan. Even if you have to put the new filter back in before draining. The oil filter should be holding some oil to prevent dry starts and it would be preferable to have that oil out.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Now I do that exactly backwards, drain the pan first. Under the maybe false assumption the Cruze is the same as my Cavalier using that same canister and way in the **** overpriced piece of paper only oil filter cartridge that saves the environment.

This way, buy just loosening the filter cap a tad suction pulls most of that oil down to the pan. The oil filter canister on the Cavalier is just like that on the Cruze, mounted practically horizontally. So very little drips out.

These canisters are NOT a new idea, were used on all vehicles in the 30's to the late 50's, again, I didn't write down those dates. But can't recall one that wasn't mounted vertically and didn't have a canister drain on them. 

These screw on oil filters were always a disaster, surfaces have to be clean, being paranoid, always use a light coating of Permatex non-hardening gasket maker. Have no problems getting them off. Then accessibility, had one vehicle where the PS pump had to be removed first. 4WD vehicles are generally remotely mounted with long hoses next to exhaust manifolds. And guys at quick lube places don't know how to screw them on without cross threading them first. You have to take an IQ test to get a job at these places, if greater than 2, you won't get the job. 

One other thing I don't like about these canisters, really don't know if they changed your filter or not. Unless you remove the cap and look at it. But if you are going to do that, just might as well change the oil yourself. Also seen guys, even at dealerships use the same container for coolant that they use for oil that comes in 55 gallon drums.

Another game some dealers play, but not during the warranty period when everything is great until then. Find 50,000 things wrong with your vehicle and give you a repair estimate requiring a second mortgage on your home. And put a fear of death into you if you even drive your vehicle five feet. Not with me, but sure pull that on my wife, kids friends, or relatives. Ha, didn't mind this when they pulled this on my ex-in-laws.


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## 2012CruzeLT (Jul 18, 2012)

Trying to do an oil change on my moms 2012 Cruze LT. I have done oil changes in the past but only on an 03 element and a 93 suburban, both of which had traditional oil filters. I have no clue what the canister is for the oil filter and seem to be able to find no images that show me it. Can someone please post a picture of it or explain where it is? I see nothing on the motor looking like an oil filter from the bottom.

Thanks in advance,

Dan


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