# AC OFF HIGH ENGINE TEMP



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Lili23 said:


> I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8L.
> Had a first time occurrence with a warning message that read “AC Shut off High Engine Temp” I had been running errands in the middle of traffic hour. Not exactly standstill traffic but a lot of red lights. I noticed the engine temp gauge needle a just barely across the half way marker. I was at a red light when it came on but once I started driving again warning disappeared after a minute or less. Needle dropped back to halfway marker but came to another red light and started moving up again.
> Made it home left it alone next morning checked coolant level and it was just a bit below the arrow so I topped it off according to owner manual instructions. Drove it around but still having same issue. Engine temp gauge is steady and below halfway mark as long as I’m driving but the second I come to a stop temp shoots up 5-10 degrees in a matter of minutes. I parked the car left engine on for 4 minutes coolant temp dash reading went from 194 to 217 within that timeframe. I didn’t let it get passed that because I was afraid to get that AC message again. Checked under the car to see if any leaks were pooling on the pavement didn’t see a drop. Popped the hood and didn’t see anything unusual.
> So I came to the internet to get an idea of what it might be. I suspect the engine fan. But I’m not sure so I’m hoping to get a few suggestions. Also I didn’t notice the fan kick on when I got the initial warning. So should I idle it until the engine temp gauge gets to halfway marker or a little passed it, to make it kick on? I really don’t know how else I would make it turn on. Anything helps! Thanks!


Welcome Aboard!

1. Check the fuse for the fan.
2. Check your coolant level. The system may not have been "burped" completely. Refill as needed. Nice reply by Jblackburn to a similar issue. If you are able too, pressurize your cooling system to find any extraneous leaks.
3. Check both of the coolant sensors
4. Use an app like Torque or a ScanGauge etc to see the actual coolant temp.
5. Make sure the water outlet is not cracked
6. See if the thermostat is working - see video 3 below for place to check.
7. Determine whether or not the water pump is leaking. There is a TSB for this for some models


Both temp sensors:




or




or





Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Welcome Aboard!
> 
> 1. Check the fuse for the fan.
> 2. Check your coolant level. The system may not have been "burped" completely. Refill as needed. Nice reply by Jblackburn to a similar issue. If you are able too, pressurize your cooling system to find any extraneous leaks.
> ...


Thank you for all the suggestions I really appreciate it!!


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)

Lili23 said:


> I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8L.
> Had a first time occurrence with a warning message that read “AC Shut off High Engine Temp” I had been running errands in the middle of traffic hour. Not exactly standstill traffic but a lot of red lights. I noticed the engine temp gauge needle a just barely across the half way marker. I was at a red light when it came on but once I started driving again warning disappeared after a minute or less. Needle dropped back to halfway marker but came to another red light and started moving up again.
> Made it home left it alone next morning checked coolant level and it was just a bit below the arrow so I topped it off according to owner manual instructions. Drove it around but still having same issue. Engine temp gauge is steady and below halfway mark as long as I’m driving but the second I come to a stop temp shoots up 5-10 degrees in a matter of minutes. I parked the car left engine on for 4 minutes coolant temp dash reading went from 194 to 217 within that timeframe. I didn’t let it get passed that because I was afraid to get that AC message again. Checked under the car to see if any leaks were pooling on the pavement didn’t see a drop. Popped the hood and didn’t see anything unusual.
> So I came to the internet to get an idea of what it might be. I suspect the engine fan. But I’m not sure so I’m hoping to get a few suggestions. Also I didn’t notice the fan kick on when I got the initial warning. So should I idle it until the engine temp gauge gets to halfway marker or a little passed it, to make it kick on? I really don’t know how else I would make it turn on. Anything helps! Thanks!





Blasirl said:


> Welcome Aboard!
> 
> 1. Check the fuse for the fan.
> 2. Check your coolant level. The system may not have been "burped" completely. Refill as needed. Nice reply by Jblackburn to a similar issue. If you are able too, pressurize your cooling system to find any extraneous leaks.
> ...


Got a code reading at autozone P0597, P0598, and P2181. 

Today while driving it around I noticed something that I hadn’t before. My car has always been very loud anytime I turned it on. Never gave it a second thought because I just figured it was normal. But tonight I had the AC and radio off with the windows down and realized my car sounds so much quieter now. Which has never happened. So I’m thinking this whole time I’ve had my car the engine fan has been running constantly from the moment I turn on the car until I shut it off. 
Well I put it in park and let the engine run until the engine temp gauge needle got close up to the middle line. Checked under the hood and noticed how quiet it sounds now compared to how it used to sound. Then I heard a small little click noise as if the fan wanted to kick on but couldn’t. When this sound happened it also made my headlights and the inside lights dim just a little bit and the car also vibrated, not a whole lot just a tiny bit.
I turned off the engine looked around for any visible leaks under the hood and under the car but didn’t see anything. Coolant level still at the same fill line as yesterday. Heater blows hot air and AC blows cool air but not as cold as it used to be.

So I’m thinking the fan motor just gave out or bad thermostat??


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

The thermostat is relatively easy to replace. I am not sure about the fan motor.

How-To: Replace Thermostat Housing & Thermostat (1.8L)
Post in thread 'Diagnosing bad fan/resistor pack'

i answered some of this on your other post:








2012 Chevy Cruze LS *New Member Intro*


I own a 2012 Chevy Cruze LS 1.8L 82,140 miles approximately This car was a free hand-me-down from a family member. It is a rebuilt title car. I’ve been driving it around for a little over 3 years now. She runs like a champ and has never had any major issues while I’ve had her. Well aside from...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)

Thanks again for all your input and all links and recommendations. I really do appreciate the time and effort!


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)

Got the d


Blasirl said:


> The thermostat is relatively easy to replace. I am not sure about the fan motor.
> 
> How-To: Replace Thermostat Housing & Thermostat (1.8L)
> Post in thread 'Diagnosing bad fan/resistor pack'
> ...


Got the diagnostic testing on the cooling system they said fan unit needs replacing and thermostat & housing unit also needs replacing.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Hopefully they don't overcharge you. I would really consider doing at least part of it yourself.


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Hopefully they don't overcharge you. I would really consider doing at least part of it yourself.



I took the car in for engine cooling system diagnostic and this is the email I got in return,

"we have completed the analysis on your cruze, i left you a voicemail earlier but ill get some information to you here in case you are unable to receive calls anytime soon. first off the cooling fan motor has an open circuit internally, it is a multi speed fan and both legs are inoperative. there is a low speed and a high speed circuit going to the fan, the engine computer will turn on the speed it needs depending on temperature an or ac operation. this is the primary issue the car has, the fan installed would run *515.00 with parts and labor and includes testing fees*. as for the engine light codes for the P0597 and 598 those are related to the thermostat heater control circuit, this is a housing on the back of the cylinder head that contains the thermostat heater element and the thermostat itself, we replace them with an aftermarket unit that is made of aluminum instead of the factory plastic housing,* that repair would run 341.00 if you elected to repair it*, the fans would take care of the overheating at slow vehicle speeds and or sitting still and of course would allow the air conditioning to function at slow speeds as well. total work time for repairs would take approximately 4-5 hours which includes vacuum time for cooling system to purge any air pockets created when cooling system is opened up for repairs. "

Seems pretty steep to me but then again I'm not sure.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Lili23 said:


> I took the car in for engine cooling system diagnostic and this is the email I got in return,
> 
> "we have completed the analysis on your cruze, i left you a voicemail earlier but ill get some information to you here in case you are unable to receive calls anytime soon. first off the cooling fan motor has an open circuit internally, it is a multi speed fan and both legs are inoperative. there is a low speed and a high speed circuit going to the fan, the engine computer will turn on the speed it needs depending on temperature an or ac operation. this is the primary issue the car has, the fan installed would run *515.00 with parts and labor and includes testing fees*. as for the engine light codes for the P0597 and 598 those are related to the thermostat heater control circuit, this is a housing on the back of the cylinder head that contains the thermostat heater element and the thermostat itself, we replace them with an aftermarket unit that is made of aluminum instead of the factory plastic housing,* that repair would run 341.00 if you elected to repair it*, the fans would take care of the overheating at slow vehicle speeds and or sitting still and of course would allow the air conditioning to function at slow speeds as well. total work time for repairs would take approximately 4-5 hours which includes vacuum time for cooling system to purge any air pockets created when cooling system is opened up for repairs. "
> 
> Seems pretty steep to me but then again I'm not sure.


I am not sure where they found an aluminum housing t-stat for a 1.4 as I have been looking and all I see are ones for the 1.6 from overseas.

I would buy the Mahle t-stat for about $60 from AutoZone plus any discounts available and do it yourself. It is very easy to do. I did see that Duralast has an aluminum housing T-stat now, but I did not look at it as it was twice as expensive and the Mahle is also a lifetime warrantied part.

I would continue to ask around for help with the fan as it seems a bit high for me too.


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> I am not sure where they found an aluminum housing t-stat for a 1.4 as I have been looking and all I see are ones for the 1.6 from overseas.
> 
> I would buy the Mahle t-stat for about $60 from AutoZone plus any discounts available and do it yourself. It is very easy to do. I did see that Duralast has an aluminum housing T-stat now, but I did not look at it as it was twice as expensive and the Mahle is also a lifetime warrantied part.
> 
> I would continue to ask around for help with the fan as it seems a bit high for me too.


Mine is 1.8 idk if I had mentioned that. I found the parts online but not sure of the quality. I’ve been looking at Napa and included a picture of the parts. I’ve seen that Amazon carries Dorman 902-033 but Napa’s unit is cheaper after applied discount codes both are aluminum I believe so I just want to save where I can. However not sure which manufacturer to go with in regards to quality.


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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)




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## Lili23 (Feb 24, 2020)




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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Lili23 said:


> Mine is 1.8 idk if I had mentioned that.


Yes, an all-aluminum water outlet is available for the 1.8. I got a Duralast at Autozone, but I'd wager it's exactly the same as the Dorman, with just a different label. I paid a bit more, about $100, but when you've got the car torn apart, you can't wait for lower cost mail order parts  

BTW, this comes with the thermostat and thermostat housing as well as the temp sensor and heating element. So there's no need to move bits over to the new unit nor having to find new o-rings for them.

Doug










.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Sorry, sometimes I forget which thread I am responding to.


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