# Help please



## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)




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## Ger8mm (Mar 13, 2014)

my 0.02, if that frame is bent, ditch it fast. Otherwise you can keep it.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

It would work out in my favor if it were totaled.


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

It depends on if it effects the structure of the car. If the frame is bent then it will be totaled. If the structure from the back to the back quarter of the car is damaged it may be too expensive to repair and they will total it. At least it isn't your fault. He rear ended you so by default it is His insurance. I would plush for a new one. Why drive one that has had damage.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Exactly, I figure if I'm paying for a new car I want to be driving a new car, not a refurbished one


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Keep us posted. That's a close one. Basically replacing the rear end and I see quarter damage..plus a paint job. Am curious to hear what they do with it. Just keep pushing for it to be totaled hehe.


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

I agree with Ger8mm. Talk to the adjuster and see if they're willing to total it for you..... couldn't hurt to ask the question. Someone else will love to grab this as a salvage title.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Ok, I'll let you guys know how it turns out. I will definitely push for it. If it gets totaled I can get into an LTZ rs for the same price as this ls. Thanks for the quick replies!


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Quick replies are easy. I live on here... just ask anyone


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## 99_XC600 (Feb 24, 2013)

Based that it's a LS and the amount of damage. I would say it's totaled.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

I think so too. But I don't know the first thing about cars. When I bought my ls I rolled 3 or 4k in payments from my jeep into my new car. Thankfully I opted for gap insurance. So I should break even if it's totaled and everything goes as it should with the insurance. That would allow me to get an LTZ for about what I paid for the ls. Fingers crossed


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Good luck to you. Be sure to respond back to this thread as I always like to see a thread resolved for the future readers and my own satisfaction


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Will do, thanks


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

It depends on the car value vs repair value. If it is 50% so say only 10kish in damage they may not..you have to question the adjuster on the car value and damage estimate. Make sure they give that to you. Don't let them say they don't know. They will already have an idea if cost. Been there done that.


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Just keep telling them it won't be as structurally sound as it was and keep pushing. Then if totaled buy it from them if you can. Fix or part it out or sell..will make some $ on it.


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## 99_XC600 (Feb 24, 2013)

Honestly, since you have GAP insurance. The best thing to happen would for them to total it. This would wipe out the negative equity that you had in the loan and allow you to start from square one.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Ya, I don't know anything about cars. I'm sure it would be a steal for someone who does. I'd prefer to just have it totaled out and hit the dealer for a newer, better version


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Ouch! Where in MI are you?


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Yeah that gap in the loan is great for these issues. What is the value of a new LS that drives off the lot and become used? How hard was the hit, I know it's not as bad as the LTZ RS. 


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Just remember you have to call the GAP insurance yourself and file the claim if they total it. Your auto insurance won't do that. You also have a limited time.. I forget how long .. I think it was 60 or 90 days.


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## McNeo (Dec 17, 2013)

iTz SADISTIK said:


> Quick replies are easy. I live on here... just ask anyone


We share beds sometimes.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Southeast michigan. An lt rs is 20kish. I already started the gap claim. Sitting at collex right now


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## Erastimus (Feb 9, 2012)

Be careful with the experts on this fourm, Kolksie. The Cruze does not have a frame.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

What is the year make and model and mileage trim level and options. The value of your car undamaged vs the damage cost will tell you if it will be totaled


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Make sure if it is not totaled you get compensation for diminished value from the persons insurance company that hit you. If anyone went to the hospital around the time of the accident you are entitled to PIP (up to $2500) so go to a chiropractor it will cost you $20 but you can get $500 for it


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Lol I don't really do things like that to get money from insurance companies. I don't need anything more than what I've got. Thanks for all the tips though. It's literally the lowest model you can buy. It's like an ls with black trim. 32k miles on it. 2013


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Kolksie said:


> Lol I don't really do things like that to get money from insurance companies. I don't need anything more than what I've got. Thanks for all the tips though. It's literally the lowest model you can buy. It's like an ls with black trim. 32k miles on it. 2013


Diminished value is really important because it can be the difference of 3k if you trade it in right now for what they give you if you had your car repaired vs it never being wrecked. You need to make sure if it is not totaled you get compensated for the money you lost.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Oh ya, I agree with that. I meant I don't really do things like going to a chiropractor so I can get money for injuries I don't really have. All my friends have been telling me to say I had laptops and gadgets in the trunk and that my neck hurts and to go to the hospital. The guy that hit me was a stand up guy and I'm not trying to screw him or his insurance. I just want my car replaced.


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Erastimus said:


> Be careful with the experts on this fourm, Kolksie. The Cruze does not have a frame.



I don't remember anyone saying they are an expert but wouldn't you say that while a unibody is not a "body on frame", that the unit of body and chassis would still be a type of frame?

We aren't trying to mislead anyone and I take offense that you imply that I made the statement that I'm an expert since I mentioned the word "frame/structure".

I'm simply "Handbrake Released" :grin:


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

I have no idea what any of the above means. Sorry


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

I feel like a schmuck being on a car forum with car guys asking a car question when I don't know anything about anything to do with cars


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

This is exactly where you should be and honestly if someone isn't directly replying to you I'd ignore it. The previous post between those two is arguing apples and oranges and really isn't relevant as someone accidentally used a slightly wrong name/term. 


Courtesy of Wikipedia


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Correct. It wasn't directed at you lol. It is an apples and oranges thing. It is personally fine to ask questions. I was responding to a comment that was made. I'm no expert and I ask questions and also try and give answers if I have knowledge in an area. You are in the right place and I apologize if you thought it was directed at you  cheers!

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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Wrong term? Lol now you hurt me deep iTz SADISTIK. lol they are my apples I tell you. 

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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Kolksie. The frame comment just meant that older frames were a car body on top of a frame under the car. They are now called unibody meaning the car and frame are all in one. So there is no separation in the car. They are all flowing together. 

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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

My buddy had an old truck where the mounts that held the truck to the frame busted. He took a turn to fast one day and we almost flipped off the frame. Luckily the truck can weighed like 1k lbs hahahahaha.

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## Starks8 (Jul 20, 2011)

Me no likely Chevy on Chevy crime!!


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Lol alright. Well I appreciate all the replies. Still waiting to hear the total damage. Should be tomorrow. Does this unibody bend more easily than a traditional frame?


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

No.,it is actually more structurally sound. You won't really see the old style anymore. Not on cars today. But that also means that if there is enough damage..fixing it is more expensive. Would be a plus for you


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Haha ya, a huge plus for me.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

One thing with unibody vehicles, the bumper jack is sure history.










Frames were super strong where applying the jack way in the back or front could raise the entire vehicle.










An item like a rocker panel, that piece of curved metal under the doors on frame type vehicles is more of a decorative item and easy to replace. But is the frame on a unibody type car. Main reason for pitching a unibody car is if the rocker panels rusted out, body no longer had support and would even sag in the center.

Unibodies are designed to gradually crush in an accident to absorb the collision energy, and thus are throwaway items. But in crash tests, have been proven to be safer for the passengers. So if you are still alive or not severely injured, this is a good thing about them.

Go on living, and just toss the car. Salesman feature of unibodies is less rattles, the entire body and frame are integrated into one entity, so would get less rattles. But for long term use and without an accident, would be nicer if they added some nickel to the steel that is an excellent rust inhibitor. 

In salted road ares, maybe seven years is the maximum due to rust out, just toss these cars and buy a new one.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Totaled, 9300 in damage without even getting parts off to see the underlying damage


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Kolksie said:


> Totaled, 9300 in damage without even getting parts off to see the underlying damage


Haha told ya. Told ya. Congrats


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

Haha thanks. New question. I kind of want to get a manual with the lt rs I'm gonna get. What do you guys think? I don't know how to drive one but I have someone with an old car and a lot of patience who is willing to teach me


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Kolksie said:


> Haha thanks. New question. I kind of want to get a manual with the lt rs I'm gonna get. What do you guys think? I don't know how to drive one but I have someone with an old car and a lot of patience who is willing to teach me


Do it.

Jnoobs here didn't know how to drive one when he got his either, had to have someone drive it home from the dealer for him. Now I bet he wouldn't choose it any other way.

If my stop and go commute didn't bother me so much when I got Penelope, I might have gone that route. I never even gave an MT Cruze a thought, but the clutch on it is MUCH easier than most manual cars. I probably could tolerate it in the stop and go every day. So be aware that whatever car you learn on probably has a much stiffer clutch than what the Cruze has.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Even if someone teaches you how to drive you are still basically learning to drive a manual on your new car. The clutch is a wear item just like brakes and not covered by the powertrain warranty so all that extra wear from learning will be on your new car. Probably $1800 to get a new clutch installed at the dealer. 

Now if your truly set on it go for it, but you should at least consider the extra maintenance cost you could incur before 100,000 miles. Remember all of the automatic parts are covered for the entire 5year/100K powertrain warranty.


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Go with the manual. Lots of fun. If someone can let you practice go for it. Practice on a quiet spot preferably with a hill. Practice starting off on a hill first. That's how I was taught by my dad back in the day. Rest is easy

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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

This is a tough decision for me. Seems like it would get Super annoying driving manual once the novelty of it wore off


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Driving a manual becomes second nature and you don't even think about it most of the time. However if you drive for MPG 0-30MPH would require 5 shifts to keep your RPMs down. In stop and go traffic this can become very annoying for someone used to an automatic.


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## Jukebox Juliet (Apr 4, 2014)

The automatic also comes with the option to drive in non-clutch manual mode.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

I think the automatic is probably best for me after talking to some people who have manuals. I live in the city so stop and go traffic is the norm for me


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

How bad is traffic where you are? If I lived in NYC I would soo be here complaining about my automatic Cruze right about now. Truth be told I haven't driven stick in almost 3 years and when I did it was a RHD VW Diesel golf in another country. Learn with the A/C off 1st then learn with it on especially if you refuse to use anything other than 87. Manual cruze is a ***** to drive with a tank of 87 in hot weather. After about a month I switched to 93 and haven't regret it since. My other car runs 93 but at 18 mpg city and 29 highway so was accustom to spending high prices for gas and seeing it disappear way faster than my ECO. Finding the point where the clutch moves the car is the trick for hills so you know how far to lift your left leg and stop. What will drive you crazy is if you go for service and get a auto cruze loaner, you freak out on clutch to start and when you want to clutch in for corners. 

I would so say get a manual as you lose your lazy American ways of driving an auto amongst the rest of the others but if you don't feel comfortable with a brand new stick shift car that's fine too.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

If you are serious start here and don't skip to the accelerating and launching videos till you grasp the never stall and hill starts videos for a few days. As a beginner I'll say 3000ish rpm shifts for the 1.4T is fine. Once you get better at driving and shifting lower the shifts down to 2200-2500 for normal FE purposes. Sub 2000 is gonna take you some time to grasp but will reward you with MPG. When in doubt, left foot into the clutch should become instinct as you will come to stoplights and signs forgetting you are still in 4th gear and stall or come close to stalling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aw...otation_id=annotation_4015438237&hd=1&html5=1


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Quick way to smoke a clutch at the drag strip, in low gear, floor the engine, when the light turns green lift the clutch pedal about half way so it slips. Acts like a torque converter for faster starts. Have your crew change the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel for the next run.

Point for long life is to minimize slippage. Only take a second, ease out the clutch while applying just enough gas to prevent killing the engine. With a well tuned 1.4 T, can even do this without stepping on the gas. After the clutch is fully engage, then can step on the gas.

For upper ranges, trick is to sync the engine with vehicle speed so the vehicle neither stalls or surges ahead, this does take practice. And with me with over t0 years driving a manual transmission, works much better if I don't even think about it. Kind of like thinking about breathing, really get screwed up thinking about it.

Thought my latest kid how to drive a manual by driving it first and explaining exactly what I was doing and why. Also warned how much it would cost her if she slips the clutch. This took five minutes, then her turn, she was pretty good at it after about ten minutes.

Strong tendency to ride the clutch as its called when backing up, also takes some practice. 

In driving manuals since the days of the Ford Model T's, have to say the Cruze is one of the best manual transmissions I have ever driven. And makes driving a lot more fun. Plus you are in control, not some silly-con diode.


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## phpsteve (Jul 15, 2014)

Whatever you feel comfortable with. Go with your gut.

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## 99_XC600 (Feb 24, 2013)

If I had to do it again, I would go with the RS with the 6 Speed Manual. I love my ECO, but I long for a manual at times.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, was anxious to head out east when we first got this P-30 motorhome, said really didn't have a chance to check everything over first, but can try it. Didn't catch a patch the previous owner did on one of the coolant lines that sprung a leak. But the time I caught it, was a bit too late. Did manage with help from strangers to get a piece of rubber hose, and loaded it with Lucas transmission seal conditioner. 

And to save driving clear around Chicago, took that SS Badger ferry across Lake Michigan. That was fun for me, but she was nervous and locked herself up inside. Only cost a hundred bucks, was also on a 4th July weekend. Got it home, but going up the driveway, that TH-400 really smoked. Had to pull it, replaced everything with genuine OE Borg Warner parts, another 500 bucks out the door. Added a better cooler and all new transmission lines. Would have been easier if they didn't build a motorhome on top of the chassis but got it done.

While I was add it removed the U-Joints with fresh lube, no drain plug on the differential, so had to remove the rear cover to drain it for fresh grease, also had Timken bearings in the rear drums, cleaned and repacked those. She was concerned about taking trips again, said you don't have anything to worry about.

But we don't use it that much anymore, somehow the price of gas went from $1.50 to over four bucks a gallon. Cheaper to take the Cruze and stay in a motel.

But just saying, you don't have these kinds of problems with a manual transmission so that was our choice with the Cruze. Goes along with KISS, kept it simple, stupid. Plus we have an extra thousand in our bank account. 

That TH-400 is 100% mechanical, this new crap, the transmissions are a lot simpler, but adding all this electronic crap to it, one stupid little switch or wire can cause major problems. And for replacement parts, outrageous. And really a first class PITA to remove these thing from a FWD vehicle. 

Use to have a separate PROM based microcontroller module for that AT that wasn't too bad. Now part of the PCM with flashram, they got to be kidding. With a low battery, can start my Cruze by rolling down the driveway in third gear to get it started. Try with with an AT.

Said this many times, if you want more problems, we have problems.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

2LT RS 6MT in BGM with all options possible beside remote start for obvious reasons. I would possibly swap to the LTZ 18's to complete the look and leave it at that. 6 cars and never had an "aftermarket" set of wheels. they were always take offs from the models above or what ever it came with.


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## Kolksie (Jul 30, 2014)

I have no idea. I'd like to get a manual but I can imagine a million different scenarios where I end up hating it


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Kolksie said:


> I have no idea. I'd like to get a manual but I can imagine a million different scenarios where I end up hating it


The only time I hate mine is when I'm stuck in traffic leaving a big event like a concert/packed parking garage.

The Cruze's MT is completely livable in heavy DC-area traffic - it's so easy to start off with.

It doesn't help that the Cruze auto has NO IDEA what it's doing in stop-and-go traffic - it's hunting and fumbling all over the place for the right gear most of the time.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> The only time I hate mine is when I'm stuck in traffic leaving a big event like a concert/packed parking garage.
> 
> The Cruze's MT is completely livable in heavy DC-area traffic - it's so easy to start off with.
> 
> It doesn't help that the Cruze auto has NO IDEA what it's doing in stop-and-go traffic - it's hunting and fumbling all over the place for the right gear most of the time.


NYC is not much better. I think I was like a week and a half into ownership when I decided this was a good idea to take that trip during rush hour. Relearning how to parallell park with a stick on an incline and not knowing how big the back of the car is was a pain. I may just install a camera back there one of these days. 



Kolksie said:


> I have no idea. I'd like to get a manual but I can imagine a million different scenarios where I end up hating it


I hated it for about a month and a half because I couldn't just slap it back over to d and just ride. After that point I got over it. Then after the accident, I got a 2LT auto when my eco 6mt was the shop and was glad I didn't get the 2LT RS auto. That gear hunt is crazy and the throttle delay is horrid. Even in a manual if I tried to floor 6th gear @ 36 mph, it would respond instantly by sloooooowly accelerating.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

jblackburn said:


> It doesn't help that the Cruze auto has NO IDEA what it's doing in stop-and-go traffic - it's hunting and fumbling all over the place for the right gear most of the time.


Mine doesn't have this problem at all. Only time I have found the auto hunts is on 10-15mph rolling roads such as in a campground with slow traffic and people. its either in 2nd with to many RPM or barley in 3rd which if you slow even a few MPH pops it back into 2nd. One just has to use manual mode in this situation and hold 2nd. I find the auto in D shifts very precise and nice, ONLY if you always give it an easy foot. Never once does it downshift unpredictably. I would say the opposite, allot of corners I take in D it wants to hold to high of a gear(4th) so I have no power on take off. 

However if you give it 1/4 throttle or more In D the auto chokes the big one, hesitates, drops to many gears & can be all around best described as clunky. If it wasn't for manual mode I probably would have traded my cruze for all these idiosyncrasies. 

Really not sure what environment you drove to induce hunting in this trans as on 25mph streets its comfortable in 4th(18-32mph) 35mph streets 5th(32-42MPH) and 45mph streets 6th(42mph+). Only way it would drop a gear is if you give it to much throttle, which would not happen in manual mode anyway. 

Their is also the throttle input limitations(trans downshifting on throttle input) that every auto driver has to learn with each new car you drive. As a manual transmission driver you have no throttle limitations to learn & probably give it a bit more gas than the cruze auto likes in D(auto mode). 

You also would need to learn at what speed each gear downshifts automaticly so your not driving right at that point, I suspect this is probably what was happening. An example is driving along at 28MPH in 5th, as soon as your speed drops to 27mph it will drop to 4th gear. One just need to use manual mode for the cars that keep slowing in front of you at this point and roll along in 4th gear until the road clears. Or optionally just keep your speed below 32mph to keep it in 4th if one insists on being in D(auto) mode. 

Do I love the cruze automatic? nope but I also don't think I would describe it the way you have.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

> Really not sure what environment you drove to induce hunting in this trans as on 25mph streets its comfortable in 4th(18-32mph) 35mph streets 5th(32-42MPH) and 45mph streets 6th(42mph+). Only way it would drop a gear is if you give it to much throttle, which would not happen in manual mode anyway.


The slow stop-and-go crawl down I95 at 5-20 MPH confused the bejesus out of this little car.



> its either in 2nd with to many RPM or barley in 3rd which if you slow even a few MPH pops it back into 2nd.


Us MT drivers have that same problem too - the gap between 2nd/3rd is quite large.



> However if you give it 1/4 throttle or more In D the auto chokes the big one, hesitates, drops to many gears & can be all around best described as clunky. If it wasn't for manual mode I probably would have traded my cruze for all these idiosyncrasies.


Oh hey, you're cruising along in 6th and want to gain a little speed. I see you pressed the gas just a little bit, sir. LETS DROP TO THIRD! WHEEE!

I probably would have gotten used to it after a while, and eventually I did just lock it in gear on the highway, but the 1.4 auto drove me nuts. The 1.8 was slightly more tolerable, although there's no midrange there, so it holds out gears a lot longer.

If you go for the auto, so many drivers have said a Trifecta tune makes the shifting difference night-and-day. :th_salute:


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> The slow stop-and-go crawl down I95 at 5-20 MPH confused the bejesus out of this little car.
> 
> 
> Us MT drivers have that same problem too - the gap between 2nd/3rd is quite large.
> ...


I had a 14 2LT auto for about a month, My hunt was the slow coast when I want to get from behind someone and right turn then gas w/o a response till the wheel straightened out again. The 14 LS auto seemed to have more an issue with right turn then gas situations. Cruze is the most noticeable of the cars I have driven for this segment for this delay. Other cars will respond with free rev then catch.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Still miss this car.

View attachment 102385


A 1948 Dodge with a manual transmission, three speeds forward, one reverse, with a clutch pedal you needed to shift gears. But with a torque converter they called a fluid drive back then. Could even take off in 3rd gear without engine hesitation and could apply the brakes without stepping on the clutch. But if stopped for a long period, could still step on the clutch pedal to save on excess torque converter heat. 

Was great in reverse, more torque and just leave the clutch pedal up, also great on the clutch, really limited slippage, would last forever. Today, could lock up the torque converter when on the highway for better fuel economy.

Chrysler was very innovative back then, all the advantages of an automatic and permitting the driver to manual shift. Wish they would bring this back. Simple with a ton of common sense.


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## Jukebox Juliet (Apr 4, 2014)

Have you even driven a manual yet? Go to the dealership and find a nice salesperson who will do a test drive with you in one and see what you think.

I learned with an H column (or three on the tree) that was touchy as **** and a pita to drive around the city. I haven't driven that car for years now b/c it's been in the middle of a motor swap for like 6 years now :| lol so when I was Cruze shopping I found a dealership in the middle of nowhere that randomly had a '12 leftover in Blue Topaz with black leather, premium sun/sound, and it may have been an RS, I can't remember. Anyways, it was SO cheap, they were asking $10 with only 6 miles on it.

So I noticed a local dealer had a '14 6mt eco, so I went there and lucked out with my salesman. He was AWESOME, and walked me through driving the manual. At first I was definitely rusty, but after 5 minutes of driving around I had it down. It's definitely much easier to drive a new manual lol! That being said, for my personal situation, I didn't feel it was smart to get a manual, and I ended up buying an LTZ from the salesmen I loved. But I'm glad I at least test drove one.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Jukebox Juliet said:


> That being said, for my personal situation, I didn't feel it was smart to get a manual, and I ended up buying an LTZ from the salesmen I loved. But I'm glad I at least test drove one.


Musta been that creamy white stuff again.

I test drove an Eco MT too. I just wish I wasn't catching up with the salesman and that it wasn't a dark, rainy night, but oh well. Would have been nice to really get a good feel for the car, but since I wasn't actually serious about buying it, I can't complain.


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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Eco MT is the way to go but then again I'm bias! I have no regrets about buying a 6M but then again, I've always hated automatics.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

jblackburn said:


> The slow stop-and-go crawl down I95 at 5-20 MPH confused the bejesus out of this little car.


Yep this is similar to my campground 10 mph road, you really need to use manual mode and hold a lower gear in this instance. Since I can start out off the line in 3rd, can actually roll along in manual mode in 3rd from 5-20mph without a problem. Just have to upshift to 3rd while stopped, then will not shift below 3rd gear. Could also use 2nd, but would be turning quite a few RPM at 20mph, but would really set you up for a launch to get around those slower cars. 



jblackburn said:


> Oh hey, you're cruising along in 6th and want to gain a little speed. I see you pressed the gas just a little bit, sir. LETS DROP TO THIRD! WHEEE!


I have to press my pedal past half way to invoke that kind of response. My girlfriend can't seem to learn a light throttle input in this car at all, and always drops to 5th at highway speeds when she is in D & give it a little gas, same thing happens when she drives on a 35mph street in D, always drops from 5th to 4th gear with her "light" input. She has learned to used use manual mode when cruising so this doesn't happen anymore. Funny thing is even the cruise control doesn't cause this unless you bump your speed up more than 4mph. 

I really think this might be the effect of the learning trans as I drive with the same easy foot 99% of the time my cars trans seems to never downshift for me. I'm also the one who puts on 99% of the mileage so that may have some effect. In D(auto mode) I can give it light input at 25, 35, or 45+ and it doesn't downshift at all, yet others can't seem to do this?


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## au201 (May 18, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> The slow stop-and-go crawl down I95 at 5-20 MPH confused the bejesus out of this little car.


It most certainly does! Upshift, downshift, DCFO, clunk, jerk, repeat. Lol. It's a very good auto in my opinion at any other time except for stop and go traffic or slow 10-20 mph roads. But my moms GMC Terrain is the same way. Interestingly, the Camaro isn't, but that's because it's auto is programmed as a more traditional one, it'll cruise down the road in gear at 900 rpm if you are going slow enough and not accelerating. It downshifts near idle as apposed to 1200rpm like the Cruze. On the note of downshifting, on the highway, my Cruze barely downshifts at all. I feel like when it does, is exactly when I wanted it to. It performs fantastically past 20 mph. Lol. OP, IMHO, go for the manual. It's a lot of fun and I wish I could've gotten one. This is a good auto, but a manual is better, to me at least. 


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## Jukebox Juliet (Apr 4, 2014)

Sunline Fan said:


> Musta been that creamy white stuff again.
> 
> I test drove an Eco MT too. I just wish I wasn't catching up with the salesman and that it wasn't a dark, rainy night, but oh well. Would have been nice to really get a good feel for the car, but since I wasn't actually serious about buying it, I can't complain.


Hahaha! At one point my salesman said something like "If you want to experience a real manual transmission we could take one of the Camaros out."


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> The slow stop-and-go crawl down I95 at 5-20 MPH confused the bejesus out of this little car.


Except for a different road, this is Penelope's daily life! So many idiots on the road, and sometimes they like stopping hard too.



jblackburn said:


> Us MT drivers have that same problem too - the gap between 2nd/3rd is quite large.


I so want to make a gap joke here, but just can't pin one down.



Jukebox Juliet said:


> Hahaha! At one point my salesman said something like "If you want to experience a real manual transmission we could take one of the Camaros out."


Haha you should have taken him up on that! Give him a coke at the end. Also, it sounds like he kinda asked you out there... You'd really know what's up if he pulled up an auto Camaro.


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## Jukebox Juliet (Apr 4, 2014)

Sunline Fan said:


> Haha you should have taken him up on that! Give him a coke at the end. Also, it sounds like he kinda asked you out there... You'd really know what's up if he pulled up an auto Camaro.


HAHA I like your thinking. Not the case though, he was more like a dad figure. Older guy, super nice.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> It most certainly does! Upshift, downshift, DCFO, clunk, jerk, repeat. Lol. It's a very good auto in my opinion at any other time except for stop and go traffic or slow 10-20 mph roads





> The slow stop-and-go crawl down I95 at 5-20 MPH confused the bejesus out of this little car.


 Drove I 95 and the BW Parkway this past weekend down and back to DC, I hate that traffic but my wife's Honda CR-V has a great automatic and it performed flawlessly. Never had a Cruze with an auto so nothing to compare.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

blk88verde said:


> Drove I 95 and the BW Parkway this past weekend down and back to DC, I hate that traffic but my wife's Honda CR-V has a great automatic and it performed flawlessly. Never had a Cruze with an auto so nothing to compare.


Ew, I'm sorry. Every time I drive on the BW Parkway, traffic comes to a sudden screeching halt from 60 mph and I almost always end up crashing into someone or having them almost rear end me. In fact, the last time coming back from BWI, the 3 cars in front of me hit each other, and I was lucky enough to have a Subaru STI behind me with better brakes than me. I avoid it at all costs.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

blk88verde said:


> Drove I 95 and the BW Parkway this past weekend down and back to DC, I hate that traffic but my wife's Honda CR-V has a great automatic and it performed flawlessly. Never had a Cruze with an auto so nothing to compare.


Its really not as bad as people are saying. What most are probably experiencing is the transmission programing, its like 12-19mph for 3rd gear in D. This means if your speed drops below 12mph it shifts back to 2nd, above 19mph into 4th. If your speed keeps fluctuating in this range one just needs to pull the lever into manual mode and pick a lower gear until the road clears. 

I need to do this for all the a-holes who insist on fluctuating their speed 22-32mph in a 25mph zone for no reason at all. I usually go 30mph as the auto downshifts to 4th at 27mph, so I need to use manual mode and lock 4th gear so the trans doesn't keep downshifting/upshifting as I hit the 27mph down/32mph up, downshift/upshift point for 5th(in manual mode you can shift into 5th at 28mph which also helps keep the RPM down). 

This will happen with ALL automatics that are not a CVT if you drive at or near a shiftpoint.


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## au201 (May 18, 2013)

spacedout said:


> Its really not as bad as people are saying. What most are probably experiencing is the transmission programing, its like 12-19mph for 3rd gear in D. This means if your speed drops below 12mph it shifts back to 2nd, above 19mph into 4th. If your speed keeps fluctuating in this range one just needs to pull the lever into manual mode and pick a lower gear until the road clears.
> 
> I need to do this for all the a-holes who insist on fluctuating their speed 22-32mph in a 25mph zone for no reason at all. I usually go 30mph as the auto downshifts to 4th at 27mph, so I need to use manual mode and lock 4th gear so the trans doesn't keep downshifting/upshifting as I hit the 27mph down/32mph up, downshift/upshift point for 5th(in manual mode you can shift into 5th at 28mph which also helps keep the RPM down).
> 
> This will happen with ALL automatics that are not a CVT if you drive at or near a shiftpoint.


I'm not so sure about this because our autos are electronically controlled, therefore they're given a certain speed at which they downshift or upshift, as apposed to actual power needs. That's what causes this. As much as I hate my brothers camry, there's no real way to determine "shift points" because they're not defined speeds since his trans is not fully electronically controlled. 

But I do agree about manual mode in these situations, it helps a lot. 



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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

au201 said:


> I'm not so sure about this because our autos are electronically controlled, therefore they're given a certain speed at which they downshift or upshift, as apposed to actual power needs. That's what causes this. As much as I hate my brothers camry, there's no real way to determine "shift points" because they're not defined speeds since his trans is not fully electronically controlled.
> 
> But I do agree about manual mode in these situations, it helps a lot.
> 
> ...


Manual mode in the auto feels weird. Even in my Leggy it feels weird. Riding in manual mode feels like 1st gear @ 29 in a manual where the shift light is just sitting there calling you n00b. I am more a fan of the temporary manual mode the legacy has (similar to base model CTS and upscale ATS) where you can paddle shift in drive and after no inputs automatically slip back into drive. 



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