# MLA Voltage Module, results and write-up (good news inside)



## LunaticConcepts (Nov 14, 2012)

Well, I got sick and tired of having low voltage in my car. Makes it hard to compete in SPL and have a demo car for my Car Audio stuff as well. 

So i've been on the hunt for a month or two trying to find some solution to the PCM/BCM controlled voltage system.

I got turned on to a company called Missing Link Audio and they specialize in making modules specific to your vehicle that, essential changes the charging curve of your car. There is a ~2 week turn around as everything is built in house and to your specific vehicle. 


It was pretty easy to install. Ill do a quick write up:

Tools required: flat blade screwdriver(for some gentle prying), 10mm Socket, 13mm Socket, ratchet, wire cutters/crimps, and your choice in beverages. You will also need a drill and 2-3 self tapping screws.

So, what you get in the package is the module, wiring harness, instructions, and a wiring diagram specific to your application, a couple stickers and a couple ads.










The harness "T's" into the Red/White 'Positive Battery Voltage' wire under the fuse box. The fuse for said wire is #2 15a. Also another good thing about this harness is its a 2 piece harness connected with spades so you can easily hook the factory wire back up if the need arises.










Step 1: Disconnect the battery. I found this install easier if you take the battery out completely, as well as the filler neck for the windshield wiper reservoir. Made it easier to manipulate the fuse box and so on.

Step 2: Pull the fuse box cover out and back the 3 10mm bolts out on the fuse box, keep in mind they only back off a little bit before the fuse tray can be removed. The 3 bolts also hold plugs that go into the bottom of the tray. Once you've loosened the three bolts then you can gently pry the tabs that the tray 'snaps' in to. 



















Step 3: Once you have the fuse box tray free of the container, remove the bottom left 10mm bolt so you can take the bottom left plug out of the bottom of the fuse tray, that just makes it easier to access the Red/White wire that you need to 'T' off of. You may need to gently pry the plug away from the tray while loosening the bolt. Once you have removed the plug, then just find the Red/White wire and cut it with some distance between the cut and the plug so you can revert it back to stock if you need to. Once you have cut it, crimp the other end of the MLA Module Harness with the pre-crimped connectors. (Sorry, didn't get a picture of the crimping part, but I did take one after I put it all back together)



















Step 4: Put everything back together, make sure you have the fuse box tray bolted back down firmly. Once you have put everything back together, it's time to mount the module and ground it. I chose to mount mine on the strut tower, but you can mount it anywhere you'd like to, just make sure you have a good ground.










That's it!










Mind you I haven't even done a big 3 yet and its sitting at 14.3v-14.4v constantly.

:go:

http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/


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## Xaxas (Jun 1, 2013)

Nice writeup, kinda odd nobody has replied, but this looks really interesting for people looking for a constant 14.4v for some amplifiers (like me) and quite easy to do, just wondering how much it costs, might aswell do this and get an Alpine PDX-V9 and get the said rms output.


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## nike12000 (Sep 13, 2013)

I agree price will be the make it or break it because the big 3 upgrade is very cheap and as I understand it gives very sim results


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## LunaticConcepts (Nov 14, 2012)

nike12000 said:


> I agree price will be the make it or break it because the big 3 upgrade is very cheap and as I understand it gives very sim results


I haven't done a big 3 yet, but I don't see it making the voltage sit at 14.4. Out of all the vehicles I've done big 3's in none have had an increase in voltage, just holds voltage better. 

The price is a bit steep at $209 shipped, but well worth it as now you could put a bigger alternator in. 


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

LunaticConcepts said:


> I haven't done a big 3 yet, but I don't see it making the voltage sit at 14.4. Out of all the vehicles I've done big 3's in none have had an increase in voltage, just holds voltage better.
> 
> The price is a bit steep at $209 shipped, but well worth it as now you could put a bigger alternator in.


With the big 3 kit[1/0 gauge] on my car I usually sit around 14.5 on the read out.

I will say however that I love the way our car is designed. About a week ago I was driving down I5 and apparently one of my terminals were loose. Needless to say a bass note hit at the same time I hit a small pot hole and my headlights flashed off then back on in half a second, my entire stereo/center console lights went off, radio turned off, amps lost power; however my HUD stayed lit, and my engine stayed on. Naturally I nearly crapped myself thinking my car imploded on itself or something, but I will say that the car's basic programming to keep the engine/HUD up last during power cuts when something happens is quite reassuring.


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## LunaticConcepts (Nov 14, 2012)

Smurfenstein said:


> With the big 3 kit[1/0 gauge] on my car I usually sit around 14.5 on the read out.
> 
> I will say however that I love the way our car is designed. About a week ago I was driving down I5 and apparently one of my terminals were loose. Needless to say a bass note hit at the same time I hit a small pot hole and my headlights flashed off then back on in half a second, my entire stereo/center console lights went off, radio turned off, amps lost power; however my HUD stayed lit, and my engine stayed on. Naturally I nearly crapped myself thinking my car imploded on itself or something, but I will say that the car's basic programming to keep the engine/HUD up last during power cuts when something happens is quite reassuring.


A loose terminal will do that sometimes lol


Thing about this module, is the alternator is keeping the charge on the battery rather than just kinda maintaining the voltage. So when it's under load, IE when I'm playing music, it hold around 14.0v


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

Can you say "*Warranty Voiding Exercise*?" Why, _sure_ you can!


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