# P0302 & P0599 simultaneously



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mcopenspire said:


> Stabilitrak and traction control lights came on, vehicle started running rough, temperature increased and couldn't maintain idle. Anyone have similar issues? Could it be as simple as plugs & coil? 2016 Chevy Cruze LT - 80,000miles
> 
> Michael


Welcome Aboard!

*P0599*
Experience dictates that the problem usually lies in a loose or corroded electrical connector or the electrically operated thermostat itself is at fault.
A loose or corroded connector on the thermostat
A coolant leak will cause the code to set
The thermostat itself has failed
A short or open has occurred in the wiring harness between the computer and thermostat
The ECM has failed
Read more at: P0599 Thermostat Heater Control Circuit High Code

Start by disconnecting the cooling system wire connectors, spray them out with canned air, then spray with contact cleaner and either wait for them to dry or again spray with canned air.
(You could also use an air compressor, preferably with a dryer and oil free.)









P00B7 - ECM Code Reader


I currently have (1) 2011 and (2) 2012 Cruze LS for kids, and had 2 others previously (those were bought new and zero problems....hence why I bought 3 used ones....). The 2011 is on its 3rd T-stat, the last one done by GM dealer a month ago. Symptoms continuing with idle/park overheating/AC...




www.cruzetalk.com















A code *P0302* may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Defective ignition coil(s)
Bad spark plug(s), spark plug wires, or spark plug boots
Faulty fuel injector(s)
Malfunctioning fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel injectors, or fuel filter)
Major engine vacuum leak EGR valve stuck in the wide open position
Clogged EGR ports
Read more at: P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected






https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10112283-9999.pdf

Tips to ensure no misfires occur:

Remove the coil pack. If the boots are stuck on, use a small screwdriver or pick with some dielectric grease on it to go around the outside of the boot and then possibly the inside of the boot to help aid in removal.

Remember to (p)re-gap your plugs to .028, (0.24 if tuned)

*Set gap with the black portion of this tool.*










To increase the gap size bend the ground strap up to the desired height. DO NOT LET THE GAPPING TOOL TOUCH THE *IRIDIUM* CENTER ELECTRODE OR PORCELAIN.

*Measure the gap with feeler gauges.*










*Throw this away.*












Torque to 18 ft-lbs with no anti-seize on the threads of a stock type plug.

Ensure the boots have no rips/tears or holes in them, lightly coat them with dielectric/silicone grease and make sure the resister springs are clean and not caught up in the boots when you install them.

If the plugs look bad, consider these:

*-BKR8EIX-2668* (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
*-BKR7E-4644* (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

Read _Hesitation Gone!_ for more info on the plugs.






A good replacement coil is the MSD Blaster OEM Replacement Coilpack 8236

How-To: Remove and Replace the Coil Pack and Spark Plugs.

While you are in there, if you have a cheap endoscope, look at the pistons. This can also tell you many things.


As for the traction control and stabilitrac, here is one possible solution:

Service Bulletin - NHTSA SB-10057574-8899
SB-10089945-2280

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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