# P1101 cel



## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

did you unhook the battery cable when you changed the air filter?


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## woody13eco (Jan 20, 2013)

No. The wife has her phone synced via bluetooth. Will it lose anything?


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

woody13eco said:


> No. The wife has her phone synced via bluetooth. Will it lose anything?


I have no idea about that, I just mentioned it because even just bypassing the intake resonator can set off the CEL. 

I did not unhook battery with intake resonator bypass & when I started my car the engine cooling fan was running at full speed on a fully 24hr cooled engine. Decided to put resonator piece back in & when I started it I got a CEL(don't remember the code). I am assuming this actually validates the mod since just like a CAI changes air flow enough to need a battery reset so does any other intake/filter change that will increase flow.


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## phantomknight321 (Jan 29, 2013)

I never saw this when i did my resonator delete, nor after my k&n drop in i did a while later. At some point i did have the battery disconnected to install my amp and subs however...


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## iCruze2 (Dec 16, 2011)

I didn't have this problem either. And just an FYI, a CAI/SRI will not void your warranty.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

You are not going to like my response, so stop here and don't read it.

A MAF sensor is a very sensitive device, consists of two very fine nichrome wires, on buried for a reference, the other exposed to the aiir flow where its velocity affects the resistance of the expose wire. Compared to the reference where the resistance of the exposed wire decreases very slightly somewhat proportional to air velocity. Applied to a differential amplifier and corrected by firmware in the PCM.

Just the slightest amount of oil on that exposed wire can screw it up for lack of a better word. Thousands have had problems with these air filters that are oil based. In our GM dynamometer room little or no gain was gained with these filters, just more noise, but the engineers have to comply with noise limits factors.

Airflow characteristics start from the air intake and end up at the exhaust pipe where very strict compliance with EPA regulations have to be met and complied with. The stock air filter has to be over designed to compensate for debris build up, generally a safety factor of twice the airflow requirements. Plus meet noise requirements.

Want to solve your problem, with a very delicate touch and some denatured alcohol, clean that exposed nichrome wire, and return to your stock air filter. Will also be a couple of hundred bucks richer.

Told you, you wouldn't like this response. And if you really think hard on this subject, just messing around with the air filter and not dealing with the rest of the air flow system is kind of dumb. The guys that design these air flow systems are not idiots that others like to call them that.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

It is not uncommon for K&N dropins to be excessively oiled out of the box. Best rule of thumb is to wash the new one and VERY LIGHTLY reoil it before initial installation. The last one I bought had excess oil in the filter when I pulled it out of the box. I know this sounds like extra work (and too late for you), but it's the only way to prevent oil getting on the MAF sensor. I believe there is a MAF cleaner spray available to try to clean a dirty MAF. I've use K&N dropins for many, many years on several different cars with no MAF issues. Since I keep my cars for a decade or more, the washable filters end up being cheaper, and they do increase mileage a wee bit. Some people say they let more dirt into the engine, but I've never had any problems with engines that I've used K&Ns on. Even replaceable paper filters have different airflow characteristics, and the washable ones are no different. There are entire threads on Bobistheoilguy.com about these things if you want more information.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Agreed, clean the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner (really quick-drying electronics cleaner in a different can) and check the connector to the MAF. It's possible it was not re-installed just so.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

K7N could develop a MAF sensor that is immune to their oil, or better yet, redesign the entire air flow system from intake to exhaust. Not just fool with the air cleaner.

88 Supra came from the factory with a washable air fiilter, still in great shape after 25 years. 

Brief history on air filters? Weren't even used in automotive until the mid 30's and clear through the 50's with the oil bath type, those were miserable to clean, then finally paper filters were introduced.

Real culprit was that breather tube sucking in road dust into the internal engine, especially when you took your foot off the gas that creates a vacuum. That wasn't cured until the early 60's with the PCV system. Before that when overhauling an engine, had to start off with an endloader to get rid of all that sludge.

Also back then, a heck of a lot more dusty roads, in particular in rural areas.

Just checked the air filter in my Cruze after driving it over half way around the earth. Could still see bright light coming through it, just a little dusty on top, blew that off with an air hose and stuck it back in.

A better question is, do we really need an air filter?


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## woody13eco (Jan 20, 2013)

I will clean the MAF and check the filter. It looked lightly oiled (less than I have run in the past with Speed Density cars) but I will see if anything got through. If it is caused by oil contamination I can find a cone filter in the same dimensions that is dry, worst case scenario.

I assumed the new filter flowed more air and caused the difference in actual vs. calculated. Could that be the case? And if so, how do you change that without a tune that voids the warranty.


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## woody13eco (Jan 20, 2013)

MAF was clean as can be. And I unhooked the battery for s&g's. Light has not come back on since I cleared it originally. However, it does surge when going up a hill some times. Feels like it is down on power a little. Never lights the CEL when it does it though. Any ideas? I'm thinking about swapping the stock box back on to see if that fixes the surging problem.


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## kfr291 (Aug 11, 2012)

NickD said:


> You are not going to like my response, so stop here and don't read it.
> 
> A MAF sensor is a very sensitive device, consists of two very fine nichrome wires, on buried for a reference, the other exposed to the aiir flow where its velocity affects the resistance of the expose wire. Compared to the reference where the resistance of the exposed wire decreases very slightly somewhat proportional to air velocity. Applied to a differential amplifier and corrected by firmware in the PCM.
> 
> ...


so even a resonator bypass will mess up the flow. Is it only the oil filters thats are messing with the MAF. i have stock air filter but resonator bypass on... i do plan to do a k&n SRI swap


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Changing anything after the air box will mess up the MAF. Changing anything before the airbox won't mess up the MAF since there's nothing changing in the air box itself.


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## lukasztracz (Jan 9, 2015)

sciphi said:


> Changing anything after the air box will mess up the MAF. Changing anything before the airbox won't mess up the MAF since there's nothing changing in the air box itself.



I keep getting code P1101 on my 2012 Chevy Cruze ECO 1.4 L turbo charged, no modifications. I am at the dealer about once a week now. On my third valve cover now, and waiting for this code to come back. P1101 points to PCV valve, apparently, but no resolution has been found to this date. (Unless my problem doesn't come back after this. They say third time is a charm, and I'm holding fingers crossed) Also had my water pump replaced twice, and I am not looking forward to more water pump issues. Power train warranty is all I have left now, and I have been asking for my money back close to a year. (or a replacement for this lemon)


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