# "A/C Off Due to High Engine Temp" and weird fan noise



## thesnowoman (Jan 18, 2018)

Hi everyone! Please bear with me, I know next-to-nothing about cars...

I've owned a 2012 Chevy Cruze for just over 3 years now, I bought it used at about 32,000 and now am at 61,000 miles. I don't know if it's relevant or not, but some back story: I had that electrical problem that I found after internet searching seemed to be common in Cruzes where my interior lights and the radio would go haywire, power steering would go out, culminating once to shorting the battery completely to where I couldn't start the car or even turn the key. Anyway, that problem was fixed after a shorted wire was found.


Yesterday I was driving to work and noticed a warning come on that info screen behind the steering wheel "A/C Off Due to High Engine Temp" came on. I thought that it meant A/C unit in general as my heater was on given it was in the teens outside. It happened again on the way home from work and noticed my engine temperature gauge not necessarily getting hot, but still past halfway to overheating on the gauge. After the A/C, may or may not have shut off, it would go back down to being just shy to a bit less than halfway to overheating. The same thing happened last night, and again this morning. However, those two times I noticed a fan-like noise coming out of my engine, loud enough to hear faintly with music on. I had heard it before, back in the Spring on the first hot day we had, but I never heard it again and so I dismissed it as my A/C "complaining" for being on for the first time in several months. On the drive home from work today, I completely turned off the A/C and heater, as well as the radio to see what would happen. Sure enough, on two occasions more into the drive, which occurred in times where I wasn't necessarily doing anything different than I had not already done, the gauge started rising, I got the message about my A/C being turned off due to a high engine temp, despite the fact that the temperature gauge still read about halfway between the midpoint and the third bigger marker and my entire A/C and heat system being shut off. Afterward, the gauge went back down to where it was. The fan remains on and loud, I don't know if it's the radiator fan or A/C or what.

I have had a radiator go bad in a previous car, and the thing that caught my attention was smoke coming out of the hood, but I don't remember the temperature gauge going haywire, or moving fast enough that I could see it move. This time, it seems to be very unstable but always stays around the middle. I did check my car last night, this morning when I got to work, and when I got home and no smoke was coming out of the hood.


Is this another computer/electronic thing going wrong? Is my coolant getting low or worse the radiator going out? My oil was just changed back in December, and they usually check levels and didn't say anything.

Update in post 3...


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## colorblind47 (Jan 19, 2018)

Could be a couple of different things. You definitely need to check for leaks in your coolant system. Between the coolant reservoir, the thermostat housing, the radiator, the hoses, the water pump and also the throttle body heater return hose that runs back into the top of the thermostat housing. The first thing i would do though is check your thermostat connection to see if the plug is loose. Next, disconnect your battery for a few minutes and reconnect it. Then see if the problem persists. If it continues to happen, and there aren't any leaks, the problem definitely lies either in the thermostat, the water pump, or either a clog somewhere in your system which isnt very likely. Especially living in a cold area, the water pump has a weephole and a freezeplug, run your car til the engine temp is in normal operating range and look at your waterpump to see if it is leaking coolant. Im not positive but i believe ive read somewhere that your dealer may replace it because there was a thing about faulty waterpumps or a bad design or something. Worth a check. I have just replaced my thermostat housing, thermostat, throttle body heater return hose, water pump, timing belt, tensioner pully, and idler pully so this is fresh in my mind.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'd check the coolant level. It may be low. The Cruze does have a number of issues that can result in the loss of coolant.

The first thing is to make sure coolant is at the right level and then look to see if it's leaking anywhere.


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## thesnowoman (Jan 18, 2018)

Update: This morning I drove to work doing the same no heat/AC, but had the radio. Anyway, everything was the same until I was at a light almost at work and got the "A/C off..." message. However, this time, the thermostat shot up, there was no gradual warm-up, you would think the engine caught fire to read my engine was overheating. I saw no smoke coming out, and in fact when I was able to move to pull in somewhere, it went back to just below halfway, and remained there until I got to work a minute later. There was no smoke coming out of my engine, the hood did not feel warm or hot.


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## Jacque8080 (Oct 31, 2017)

With the engine idling, can you feel water flow in the coolant hose? You might have to squeeze it. Is it hot?


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Buy youself an elm 327 off amazon. They're cheap. Download torque app for free. Monitor the computer with car running. Itll show you what the coolant temp is so you can compare it to the dash. 

Sounds like a bad temp sensor. Or low on coolant.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

OP?

Are you ever going to check the coolant level?

Start with the basics!

Rob


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I have a question related to a similar problem on my 2012 Cruze LS 1.8L with 114K miles. After a 50 mile interstate ride, I then drove for 10 minutes through town and parked, no problems or warnings (as it should be) and had the A/C on the entire trip . The car was parked with the motor off for about 10 minutes before I got back in the car and started driving and within a 10 seconds I got the message "a/c off due to high engine temp." Looked at the gauge and it was well above normal and the DIC had the temperature in the 240's. I immediately pulled over and checked the coolant level and it was full, but the radiator fan were not turning (would think they would have been on full blast with a temperature reading in the 240's. As a note that may be relevant, about three weeks prior to this I replaced the thermostat due to check engine light due to short in heater element in thermostat and radiator fan on full blast. Replaced the thermostat only, not the entire housing. Check engine light gone and fan not running full blast. Note that when I refilled coolant, I did warm up the car enough in the garage to ensure the radiator fan would turn on when the temperature was high enough, I am thinking it was about 210 or so and the fan came on, so I figured all good.

Back to my story, since I was over 50 miles from home, I turned the heat on to lower the engine temp and continued to drive. The temperature dropped as I drove and on the interstate I closed the windows and turned the a/c on and the engine temperature stayed between 189 and 200 degrees the rest of the trip. Made one stop and checked if the fan was running since I had the a/c on and it was, so I know the fan works.

I did not get a check engine light, but put my scanner on to check for any code, including pending, and nothing. At this point it looks like everything is good. No codes and coolant is full. In the two years I had the vehicle, I never had that warning. With that said, I believe the fan should have been on full blast, but was not running, my gut says it may have to do with the thermostat replacement, but at the same time, no codes to know where to begin.

Any thoughts or suggestions what my next step should be would be appreciated. When I looked at other threads, it seemed like it was a coolant leak or some code to direct where to repair, in my case nothing!


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

The fan doesn't run till the temp gets hot enough. 230 for the earlier cruze models. Driving down the road doesn't need the fan running. Only when it's sitting idle. 

It's a Front Wheel Drive thing. With electric fan. Since basically the 80's.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

That's where I am confused and don't know what to check. I just started driving and got got the warning "a/c off due to high engine temp" and pulled over (in town) to check under the hood. Gauge on dash was above normal and DIC showed the car was running 240+ degrees which should have meant that the fan should be running, but there was no fan action.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mike12 said:


> Gauge on dash was above normal and DIC showed the car was running 240+ degrees which should have meant that the fan should be running, but there was no fan action.


The fan in the Cruze is infamous for going from "low-medium-high" to "off-off-high". In your case, it might have gone to "low-off-high". The medium speed may have burned out. That would explain why you saw it running later (on low).

If I'm correct, the fix is to replace the fan as the burned out part (the resistor pack) is only sold as part of a complete unit.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

ChevyGuy said:


> The fan in the Cruze is infamous for going from "low-medium-high" to "off-off-high". In your case, it might have gone to "low-off-high". The medium speed may have burned out. That would explain why you saw it running later (on low).
> 
> If I'm correct, the fix is to replace the fan as the burned out part (the resistor pack) is only sold as part of a complete unit.


I think you would be correct. That seems to be the repeating answer.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Thank you ChevyGuy and Snowwy66. Is there a way to check the resistor pack with a meter? If not, I will drive it and see what happens in different situations. With the cooler/cold weather coming, it may be a non-issue until next spring. Thanks again for all your help and ideas, it really is a big help.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Someone mentioned the numbers are low. So. If you get no reading. That resistor is blown.

I could be wrong though.


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## coopersmokeypiper (Oct 17, 2017)

Assuming no loss of coolant and understanding that the radiator is too small on this car to start with, the problem becomes that when the serpentine belt stretches through age it does not deliver enough flow. Change the belt.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

coopersmokeypiper said:


> Assuming no loss of coolant and understanding that the radiator is too small on this car to start with, the problem becomes that when the serpentine belt stretches through age it does not deliver enough flow. Change the belt.


The radiator isn't small. It's the car running hotter then normal. Everyone else says the radiator is more then adequate. That car runs @220. For whatever engineer reason. They went hotter then the standard 180 - 190 cars have been running at for decades. 

Belt has nothing to do with flow. If the belt were slipping. It be squealing. And they don't really stretch per se. But there's a tensioner that takes up the slack. If the tensioner goes bad. Then yeah. Belt becomes loose and squeals. 

Op problem is a common problem that's been discussed multiple times on this forum. The fix seems to be a whole new fan assembly with resistor pack.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Yes, I will need to check the fan resistor when I have a chance. I appreciate all the feedback. I will update the thread once I get it fixed. Unless I get the message frequently, I may wait until spring since now the cooler/cold weather may prevent any overheating.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mike12 said:


> Unless I get the message frequently, I may wait until spring since now the cooler/cold weather may prevent any overheating.


Considering that you are flirting with headgasket problems, I don't think that's a wise gamble. Too little to gain and too much to lose.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I found a post by Frankh that appears to be an easy way to test the fan/resistor. I should be able to get the cover off the fan motor terminals and just use a jumper from the battery positive terminal to each of the fan speed terminals. I assume it will identify which fan speed is not working due to a bad resistor. If the fan runs at each terminal, I will then test the relays. Looks like it should be quick and easy. Below is what I found from an April 2018 post.


frankh 








Handbrake Released







Join DateAug 2014Posts183


Sadly the function of relay 10 is the same no matter which way round its installed.. I just checked and the circuits are cross connected.​
​
However I did get access to the fan motor terminals. you could take a jumper wire from the battery positive and go direct to the three terminals shown. The right terminal with a scorch mark is a ground.. ask me how I found that out..​
​
The little cover pops off if you insert the screwdriver as shown.. There is a little dab of glue that seems unecessary to hold it down as well.​
​
If the fan don't run with direct jumpering i'd say you're into a new fan.​
​
Oh I did get the big connector halfway off with levering and swearing.. but it was starting to break.. its almost like its glued on. Clearly though its just the plastic lever at the top of the pics is pressed down (towards you) and then pushing the connector downwards.. Mostly by using a screwdriver in the place shown and on the other side.​







Attached Images











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​Last edited by frankh; 04-02-2018 at 06:15 PM.​


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## coopersmokeypiper (Oct 17, 2017)

Check the actual fluid capacity of the radiator before posting please and thank you. Likewise, a noise from the belt is not the only symptom of a worn belt. When the belt ages it stretches and the flow is reduced. Flow is everything in this car. If the fan is coming on at top speed and it is still overheating it is not the fan that is causing the overheat.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

My problem was that there was no fan on when I got the warning "a/c off due to high temp." After the motor "cooled down", the radiator fan was on low when the a/c was on. At this point, I don't believe my medium or high speed is working. I will try to do some troubleshooting this week if I have time. Car has not been used since I got home after the A/C off due to high temp message.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

If high speed is out, it's due to a bad relay. High speed is putting full battery voltage on the fan. The lower speeds are created by placing resistors in series. But the resistors tend to burn out.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I will be testing the fan motor and all the relays this week. I should have an update this weekend on my results. Since it is the 1.8L motor, there is easy access to the wiring harness to the fan and the relays are right there next the battery. Plan on using my battery jump starter to power/test the fan motor and relays. I will update this weekend.


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## herpaderp (Sep 28, 2018)

I'm experiencing a similar issue with my Cruze. It's a 2013 1.4L with ~90K miles, getting no heat from the air vents when the temperature gauge is reading normal (just a tick to the left of being straight down), then I got heat for about a minute, and the gauge jumped straight to the peg. (Killed the engine immediately and added coolant before driving any farther; I'm really hoping there isn't any long-term damage to the engine...)
I know for a fact that I have a coolant leak, just surfaced yesterday, but I wanted some direction on the temperature jumping. I haven't had a chance to troubleshoot the fan, but I do know it's running at least on some temperatures.
After I address the leak, should I be concerned about replacing sensors or thermostats?


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## coopersmokeypiper (Oct 17, 2017)

You have to address the leak first. I would hold on replacing anything until then. Having gone through this entire scenario, without drinking the Kool Aide, first on my change list after the leak is resolved is the serpentine belt if it is original.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I would not worry about replacing any temps or sensors. You realize you have a leak somewhere, repair the leak and fill the system with coolant. Remember to open the bleed screw near the top of the radiator when filling with coolant to get as much air out of the system as possible. Be patient when filling, as soon as you see coolant coming out of the bleeder screw tighten it up and fill the reservoir then put the cap on the reservoir. Now it's time start the engine with the heat on full blast. Fill the reservoir as needed until filled. You may have to drive it a few times to get all the air out of the system. Hopefully you will get heat shortly after you start the engine. Good luck.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> The fan in the Cruze is infamous for going from "low-medium-high" to "off-off-high". In your case, it might have gone to "low-off-high". The medium speed may have burned out. That would explain why you saw it running later (on low).
> 
> If I'm correct, the fix is to replace the fan as the burned out part (the resistor pack) is only sold as part of a complete unit.


Do you by any chance have the schematic for this resistor pack / switch setup? Here is a generic one for what it's worth though.











snowwy66 said:


> Someone mentioned the numbers are low. So. If you get no reading. That resistor is blown.
> 
> I could be wrong though.


That is correct. I posted that in another thread similar to this one. Essentially if you have infinite resistance, or some meters may say xx G ohms or 99 etc you have an open which means bad resistor.

As I have not taken direct reading readings of the actual resistors yet (I may try and do that later today), they will obviously have a lower ohmic reading.



mike12 said:


> I found a post by Frankh that appears to be an easy way to test the fan/resistor. I should be able to get the cover off the fan motor terminals and just use a jumper from the battery positive terminal to each of the fan speed terminals. I assume it will identify which fan speed is not working due to a bad resistor. If the fan runs at each terminal, I will then test the relays. Looks like it should be quick and easy. Below is what I found from an April 2018 post.
> 
> 
> frankh
> ...


Can you post the link for this?



ChevyGuy said:


> If high speed is out, it's due to a bad relay. High speed is putting full battery voltage on the fan. The lower speeds are created by placing resistors in series. But the resistors tend to burn out.


So no more fusible links for high speed?


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Had a chance to check the radiator fan, 5 fan relays, and 3 fuses. All checked out good. Fan when powered directly had all three speeds. All relays checked out when power applied. Though the fuses looked good, checked them with my meter and they were all good.

Would a bad temperature sensor or thermostat cause me to get the "a/c off due to high engine temp" and not cause the fan to run? I did not have any codes (and no codes pending). I have not driven the car since I had the A/c off message, but maybe I just need to drive it and see what happens? Any suggestions of what to check next?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Blasirl said:


> Do you by any chance have the schematic for this resistor pack / switch setup?


Nothing handy in digital form. The setup has 5 relays. It converts the ECM's "binary word" output to a "one of 3" selection that feeds the resistors & bypass.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

mike12 said:


> Had a chance to check the radiator fan, 5 fan relays, and 3 fuses. All checked out good. Fan when powered directly had all three speeds. All relays checked out when power applied. Though the fuses looked good, checked them with my meter and they were all good.
> 
> Would a bad temperature sensor or thermostat cause me to get the "a/c off due to high engine temp" and not cause the fan to run? I did not have any codes (and no codes pending). I have not driven the car since I had the A/c off message, but maybe I just need to drive it and see what happens? Any suggestions of what to check next?



I might have misread what you said, but did you bypass the speed switch to get your results? If so, it is probably the speed switch. Also can  you post the link for the thread you referenced above?


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

To check the fan motor I put 12 volts directly to each terminals on fan motor to make sure the resistor was O.K. As I powered each of the terminals, I had a distinct change in speed, low, medium, and high. I pulled the cover off of the top of the connector as Frankh showed which made it easy to access the terminals.

I am not familiar with a speed switch, I did read where there was a relay which was for speed control and I checked that relay which was o.k. Where would the radiator fan switch be located? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.


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## TeamNadomas (Sep 5, 2018)

I have a 2013 and got the message a couple weeks ago after taking a 4 hour trip. Well actually it flashed when I got back home with 10 minutes before I pulled in my driveway. My fluid was low. I looked and looked and finally found it leaking small drops on the bottom of my thermostat. What's strange is when I took the thermostat out it fell apart and the gasket was blown out on the bottom. My car never showed a code and due to humidity in my area I use the defroster a couple times a week. I always got heat, AC and the temp never showed hot, but my car did start sluggish and sometimes I'd have to push the start button a second or third time to start the car. Also when I shut it off my car would rumble for a few seconds. I changed the thermostat and my car starts and shuts off perfectly now. I don't know how the new thermostat made a difference but it did.
My main point is look under your thermostat for a small drop leak. It's kinda cluttered under there and hard to see


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Thanks for your help. My coolant is full. I replaced my thermostat about 5 weeks ago due to the heater in the thermostat shorting out and causing the radiator fan to run full blast (I also had a CEL code when I had the thermostat fail). My coolant has remained full since I replaced the thermostat. What is strange, if my car was "overheating", the radiator fan should have been roaring to cool down the motor when I checked.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

UPDATE: More info. Drove the vehicle today and vehicle did not overheat, but also, the fan did not turn on when I put the A/C on. Last time the fan was running when I checked with the A/C on. Like I mentioned before, the fan worked when I put power directly to it (all 3 speeds), all relays and fuses tested good, plus no CEL codes or pending codes. Besides a possible wiring issue, all what else can I check? It is frustrating because all seems good,, but I hesitate to drive long distance because something is not right.

2ND Update: I let the car cool off and then started the motor and tried the A/C, radiator fan came on low. Coolant temp was around 140 degrees. Shut off A/C and tried again, fan came on and coolant temp was around 160's. Shut off and tried a third time, nothing, a/c compressor kicked in, but radiator fan did not. Coolant temp was around 180 degrees when nothing happened. I did this all with the car idling in my garage. I then took it for a ride with the a/c on and a/c worked great, stopped and checked if radiator fan was running, and nothing. The coolant temp was around 200 degrees when I checked.

Does this help anyone to direct me where to check next? Thanks in advance for all your help.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'm thinking it may be the medium speed fan relay. Right now I'm away from my books, so I can't look up which one that is. But it is a replaceable relay in the underhood fuse box.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

From what I read it is relay #9. I did check that relay and it tested fine. I know it could be a wiring issue, but I have no reason to think anything happened to cause a wiring problem. Thanks for your help, it really has me stumped.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mike12 said:


> From what I read it is relay #9. I did check that relay and it tested fine. I know it could be a wiring issue, but I have no reason to think anything happened to cause a wiring problem. Thanks for your help, it really has me stumped.


Did you try jumping the contacts on that relay to see if the fan runs?


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I did not do that. I was not quite sure how to do that. To do that, do I need to get the car to operating temperature or can I do it with the car not running, but with the ignition turned turned on? On all the relays, I put 12 volts to them and checked for continuity, all tested fine. All 3 fuses were good also, I can try jumping that relay, I would just need some guidance. Thanks again for your help.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

I did not do that. I was not quite sure how to do that. To do that, do I need to get the car to operating temperature or can I do it with the car not running, but with the ignition turned turned on? On all the relays, I put 12 volts to them and checked for continuity, all tested fine. All 3 fuses were good also, I can try jumping that relay, I would just need some guidance. Thanks again for your help.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Just for grins, check the thermisters. They should give distinct readings at different temps. Pull the wire harness off. Measure the resistance when cold and warm up the car and measure again. If there is no change, that particular thermostat is bad.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Coincidentally, I replaced the thermostat about 6 weeks ago due to the heating element going bad, radiator fan was on full throttle all the time and had a CEL code to support the replacement. Everything seemed to be working o.k., but will not swear to it. Right after I replaced the thermostat, I did let the motor idle in the garage until I got the fan to kick on. Thought everything was o.k., but now I question if somehow that is affecting the fan from running. However, I would think that the a/c would override that and the fan should work, but seems only to work when the coolant temperature is below 180 degrees or so.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

O.K. after thinking about the fan working with A/C on when I first start and when tested everything, including direct power to the fan, my thought was it has to be the fan motor, maybe brushes worn or something. This morning, I jumped the high, medium, and low relay in the fuse box, fan ran at those speeds (I did not need to have the ignition on). Also, I measured the resistance on the thermistor on the thermostat that I recently replaced, it read about 15.5 ohms (which was the reading when I installed). Coolant temp was about 60 degrees.

At this point, it looks like everything is o.k. So then I start the car and turn on the A/C, there was a short delay and then the fan started running on low. I did that a few times, on and off, then eventually no fan with a/c on. So, I went and banged the fan motor with my hammer handle and it started. When all else fails, get the hammer Note that the fan did not sound too good, some screeching noise when spinning. So, I took the car for a short drive and fan was coming on with a/c, drove back to my garage and shut the car off, measured the ohms on the thermistor again, still reading 15.5 ohms and coolant temp was around 195 degrees.

Started the car and tried a/c again, fan kicked on. Shut off the a/c and got the car coolant temp (sitting in my garage) in the 220's and the fan kicked on at a medium speed. Again, it did not sound too good, but worked as it should (I think). Anyway, long story short, I believe the fan motor is failing and needs replaced. By me tapping the fan motor, I believe that I got the brushes to make contact or freed up what ever was stuck for now. Only question was on the ohms reading on the thermistor on the thermostat, should my ohms reading have changed? If so, could that be causing the fan to not engage, and me hitting it was just fluke that it started working?

Thanks for listening and I appreciate everyone's help and suggestions.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Read this thread: Temp sensor connector


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mike12 said:


> Anyway, long story short, I believe the fan motor is failing and needs replaced.


Sure sounds like it. It wasn't a case that a certain speed was dead, but rather the fan motor was intermittent.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

That's what it looks like. I will do quick ohms check on the temperature sensors, just to make sure, but since I did not get any codes or pending codes, I am feeling pretty confident it is the motor. The fan motor did not sound healthy when it was turning...I appreciate everyone's help.


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## madison2450 (Oct 15, 2018)

Did you ever find out what was wrong with this? Mine has been doing the same thing. Put coolant in and now it's acting normal again but not sure how long that will last.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Mine was a fan issue. Since you had to add coolant, you definitely have a leak. Your issue could be simply due to the leak. I would find the leak and repair then see how she is.


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## martyf (Jan 12, 2019)

Having trouble with my a/c also. a/c clutch only kicks on for like 2 or3 seconds then off for a little bit then the same. It started doing this after I was driving and my power steering went out. I pulled over and shugt it off for about 10 minutes and started car and power steering worked great again but a/c started acting up. Happened about a year ago and cant find what problem is. any help would be greatly appreciated


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## Ravenkeeper (Sep 10, 2017)

Kept getting the same message on our Cruze, found a cracked thermostat housing, and now looking at replacing myself. The last one I changed was on my dad's '72 Datsun Pickup, you know, back when engines were easy to work on, had all kinds of room to get around the engine block, that was in '89 or so. Any issues that I need to know about before starting? Is it just too much of a P.I.T.A. and should let a professional mechanic work it?


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## Patricia Kennedy (Oct 31, 2020)

thesnowoman said:


> Hi everyone! Please bear with me, I know next-to-nothing about cars...
> 
> I've owned a 2012 Chevy Cruze for just over 3 years now, I bought it used at about 32,000 and now am at 61,000 miles. I don't know if it's relevant or not, but some back story: I had that electrical problem that I found after internet searching seemed to be common in cruzes where my interior lights and the radio would go haywire, power steering would go out, culmilating once to shorting the battery completely to where I couldn't start the car or even turn the key. Anyway, that problem was fixed after a shorted wire was found.
> 
> ...


I've got a 2015 Chevy Cruze and it started running hot turn my phone the screen that it was over heating. We had a new thermostat put on it thermostat housing and a new water pump. And it still brought that up on the screen so I decided to go to Advance Auto Parts and I bought this little bottle of K seal reset and it fixed it. It's sealed up all the cracks.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Patricia Kennedy said:


> I've got a 2015 Chevy Cruze and it started running hot turn my phone the screen that it was over heating. We had a new thermostat put on it thermostat housing and a new water pump. And it still brought that up on the screen so I decided to go to Advance Auto Parts and I bought this little bottle of K seal reset and it fixed it. It's sealed up all the cracks.


Welcome aboard!

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Patricia Kennedy (Oct 31, 2020)

My name is Patricia Kennedy and I own a 2015 Chevy Cruze with the turbo engine. When I post a comment and it doesn't sound right it's because I'm using a mic and I'm sorry


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## Sgto31b (Aug 11, 2019)

2013 Chevy Cruz RS 1.4L Turbo: A/C Off Due to High Engine Temp question.

Okay ya'all, I have read numerous thing about A/C Off Due to High Engine Temp and engine is hot. However, I get the message as stated but my temperature gage is on cold (C) and the engine is not hot at all, but my engine fan did turn on and again the engine is not hot at all. There is also wetness around the thermostat and water pump. So my question is, would the thermostat be stuck open and the pressure cause the coolant to leak out of the housing and get the water pump and that side of the engine wet? I touched the coolant hose going to the thermostat and it is cold and the water pump is warm to the touch but not hot and this is after driving it around for a few hours doing deliveries. I believe that I have read all the comments but I am not able to find any suggestions to this problem. All replies seem to be focused on the engine being hot and over heating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Sgto31b said:


> 2013 Chevy Cruz RS 1.4L Turbo: A/C Off Due to High Engine Temp question.
> 
> Okay ya'all, I have read numerous thing about A/C Off Due to High Engine Temp and engine is hot. However, I get the message as stated but my temperature gage is on cold (C) and the engine is not hot at all, but my engine fan did turn on and again the engine is not hot at all. There is also wetness around the thermostat and water pump. So my question is, would the thermostat be stuck open and the pressure cause the coolant to leak out of the housing and get the water pump and that side of the engine wet? I touched the coolant hose going to the thermostat and it is cold and the water pump is warm to the touch but not hot and this is after driving it around for a few hours doing deliveries. I believe that I have read all the comments but I am not able to find any suggestions to this problem. All replies seem to be focused on the engine being hot and over heating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


If the radiator hose from the thermostat housing is cold, that means the thermostat is not open or you have no coolant to circulate. I would check the coolant reservoir to make sure you have coolant. If the coolant reservoir is full and your engine is "cold" and are getting the message, I would suspect a faulty temperature sensor. On the 1.8L there are two, one on the radiator and the other at the thermostat (I believe, it's been a while). Also, the wetness around the water pump and thermostat would indicate a leak, but first I would focus on the original problem and consider fixing those leaks in conjunction with the A/C off Due to High Engine Temp...good luck.


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## Sgto31b (Aug 11, 2019)

mike12 said:


> If the radiator hose from the thermostat housing is cold, that means the thermostat is not open or you have no coolant to circulate. I would check the coolant reservoir to make sure you have coolant. If the coolant reservoir is full and your engine is "cold" and are getting the message, I would suspect a faulty temperature sensor. On the 1.8L there are two, one on the radiator and the other at the thermostat (I believe, it's been a while). Also, the wetness around the water pump and thermostat would indicate a leak, but first I would focus on the original problem and consider fixing those leaks in conjunction with the A/C off Due to High Engine Temp...good luck.


Thank you. Yes the level of coolant is the first thing I checked. I have worked on my car in the past myself. I have replaced the valve cover and gasket. I have replaced the water outlet and coolant resivor hose and the resivor itself. I have replaced the all that and the turbo oil feeder line myself due to other issues so I do have a little knowledge but im not an expert. I am thinking the tempature sensors as well. So ill start there. I can replace the water pump easy enough but I was looking for others advice. Thank you very much for your reply so ill start there.


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

My Cruze was a 1.8L which was a little easier and less complicated than the 1.4 L Turbo. I would find out how many temperature sensors there are on the 1.4L Turbo, and see is there is a way to test them with a meter. I remember reading where there may be a third sensor? A lot of people just keep replacing parts without diagnosing, not the approach I recommend. Once you know what each of the sensors do, you can probably isolate which one(s) to check. If there is multiple, most likely only one is bad. Good luck!


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## Sgto31b (Aug 11, 2019)

mike12 said:


> My Cruze was a 1.8L which was a little easier and less complicated than the 1.4 L Turbo. I would find out how many temperature sensors there are on the 1.4L Turbo, and see is there is a way to test them with a meter. I remember reading where there may be a third sensor? A lot of people just keep replacing parts without diagnosing, not the approach I recommend. Once you know what each of the sensors do, you can probably isolate which one(s) to check. If there is multiple, most likely only one is bad. Good luck!


Okay changed the temp sensors and the issue was the thermostat is stuck open. As for the oil leaks, it is the front cover, cam seals and oil pan seals. That is going to cost about 1300.00 parts and labor


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## mike12 (Jul 2, 2017)

Glad you were able to resolve. Ah, thermostat stuck closed, explains the cold radiator hose. Not sure I would worry about the oil leaks, cheaper to add oil...


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## Bexar Bob (Feb 8, 2021)

thesnowoman said:


> Hi everyone! Please bear with me, I know next-to-nothing about cars...
> 
> I've owned a 2012 Chevy Cruze for just over 3 years now, I bought it used at about 32,000 and now am at 61,000 miles. I don't know if it's relevant or not, but some back story: I had that electrical problem that I found after internet searching seemed to be common in cruzes where my interior lights and the radio would go haywire, power steering would go out, culmilating once to shorting the battery completely to where I couldn't start the car or even turn the key. Anyway, that problem was fixed after a shorted wire was found.
> 
> ...



Hello,

My SRX experienced the same thing. One thing I've noticed is these Cadillacs have some computer issues going on. The only difference I had was that my temp gauge was reading -0-. no movement at all. When I started the car, the gauges went through there precheck operation, but afterwards the temp went and stayed at zero. I didn't smell anything overheating, coolant level was fine. So I cleaned all the connections I could find. I removed clips and cleaned them with a clean rag, toothpick and alcohol. cleaned about 5 visible connections. while doing this I disconnected the battery. I never received a chk engine light code. Yes it probably cleared the temp code but if the temp sensor was bad it would have returned. It's been 6 months and have had no reoccurring issues. seems the connections were dirty/fouled up and the computer needed to purge the false indicator it was receiving.

Chevy Cruze Temp gauge never moves/AC off due to High engine temp - YouTube


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## tihsbox (Sep 11, 2021)

mike12 said:


> Had a chance to check the radiator fan, 5 fan relays, and 3 fuses. All checked out good. Fan when powered directly had all three speeds. All relays checked out when power applied. Though the fuses looked good, checked them with my meter and they were all good.
> 
> Would a bad temperature sensor or thermostat cause me to get the "a/c off due to high engine temp" and not cause the fan to run? I did not have any codes (and no codes pending). I have not driven the car since I had the A/c off message, but maybe I just need to drive it and see what happens? Any suggestions of what to check next?


When you checked the resistor you had power on a three settings ?


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## Agonza72 (Oct 13, 2021)

It's happening to me what did you do to fix that problem I read the first post and that's exactly what started happening last night and this Morning?





ChevyGuy said:


> I'd check the coolant level. It may be low. The Cruze does have a number of issues that can result in the loss of coolant.
> 
> The first thing is to make sure coolant is at the right level and then look to see if it's leaking anywhere.


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## Agonza72 (Oct 13, 2021)

Agonza72 said:


> It's happening to me what did you do to fix that problem I read the first post and that's exactly what started happening last night and this Morning?



What's my next step I checked cookent it seems fine


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## mdwl2004 (Oct 27, 2021)

Thanks!
Could be a couple of different things. You definitely need to check for leaks in your coolant system. Between the coolant reservoir, the thermostat housing, the radiator, the hoses, the water pump and also the throttle body heater return hose that runs back into the top of the thermostat housing. The first thing i would do though is check your thermostat connection to see if the plug is loose. Next, disconnect your battery for a few minutes and reconnect it. Then see if the problem persists. If it continues to happen, and there aren't any leaks, the problem definitely lies either in the thermostat, the water pump, or either a clog somewhere in your system which isnt very likely. Especially living in a cold area, the water pump has a weephole and a freezeplug, run your car til the engine temp is in normal operating range and look at your waterpump to see if it is leaking coolant. Im not positive but i believe ive read somewhere that your dealer may replace it because there was a thing about faulty waterpumps or a bad design or something. Worth a check. I have just replaced my thermostat housing, thermostat, throttle body heater return hose, water pump, timing belt, tensioner pully, and idler pully so this is fresh in my mind.
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## Erimalai (10 mo ago)

Hi I have the same issue with my Chevy Cruze 2014. Ac off due to hight engine temperature. I drove home and left the car overnight after the warning. There was no engine light. Next time when I started after overnight, it showed the same warning and also I heard additional noise from the engine. My temperature needle did not move up. So I ordered temp sensor to replace it. 

First I removed the battery negative and then tried to start it and the warning went away and I saw the engine temp rising in the needle. It looks like it's fixed. Any one has similar experience?

What is the issue? Any one has suggestions. I don't want to pay repair service for this and I to do it myself. I am new to it and want to fix it myself. Thanks for your help.


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