# Detached Exhaust @ SCR Catalyst



## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)




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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

1 thing I would recommend to everyone is get under ur cruze and spray those 2 studs with wd40 to prevent rust from weakening those studs. Should help.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Interesting.......you are the second forum diesel owner to have the studs rot off......first one reported about three weeks ago with pictures same as yours.......I think that one was operated in the salt belt as well.

Agree, btw......do a manual regen before changing parts.

Keep in touch.

Rob


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

Yeah I'm taliking to dealer now. Wants 2 hours to do so I'm taking home and talk to some other dealers to confirm amount of time aND price to do manual


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

Update. Nox sensor codes for Performance cleared after the exhaust was fixed. 2 codes for nox Sensor communinications wouldn't clear and I held off on the manual regen. The limited speed at 65mph is gone though so if anyone knows if it will regen on its own or is the manual regen required because communication code is still active


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Wow, I better get under there and check mine! If your soot is under 32 grams it should regen on its own. Not sure if you have a gauge hooked up to monitor it. If you are 32 or higher, you have no choice but a manual.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> 1 thing I would recommend to everyone is get under ur cruze and spray those 2 studs with wd40 to prevent rust from weakening those studs. Should help.


I just looked under mine and it would appear as if they are hanging by a thread. Guess I am going to need to make a dealer appointment to have this addressed. Can you post the info from your repair order including part numbers and details? That will make it much easier for me (and no doubt others) to present to their dealers.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> View attachment 191810


I could be wrong, but I don't think that's the DPF. I think the DPF is behind the radiator.


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## LiveTrash (May 24, 2015)

diesel said:


> I just looked under mine and it would appear as if they are hanging by a thread. Guess I am going to need to make a dealer appointment to have this addressed. Can you post the info from your repair order including part numbers and details? That will make it much easier for me (and no doubt others) to present to their dealers.


Oh my, I've been through 2 winters now with my Diesel. I'll be promptly having a peek at mine as well. Sounds like a poor choice of bolts to me.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

diesel said:


> I could be wrong, but I don't think that's the DPF. I think the DPF is behind the radiator.


Your correct. That is not the DPF in the picture, but the resonator. The DPF is right after the turbo in front of the engine. 

The exhaust being apart in this section would not affect the sensor readings or the regen cycles directly. 
However, the sensors in the pipe just up stream could have been exposed to the elements and become damaged over time.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

diesel said:


> Wow, I better get under there and check mine! If your soot is under 32 grams it should regen on its own. Not sure if you have a gauge hooked up to monitor it. If you are 32 or higher, you have no choice but a manual.


Ok thanks I don't have anything to monitor it. Anyway to check without having that gauge. Might have to install a gauge


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

LiveTrash said:


> Oh my, I've been through 2 winters now with my Diesel. I'll be promptly having a peek at mine as well. Sounds like a poor choice of bolts to me.


Agreed.


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## MilTownSHO (Oct 9, 2013)

Same


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

diesel said:


> I just looked under mine and it would appear as if they are hanging by a thread. Guess I am going to need to make a dealer appointment to have this addressed. Can you post the info from your repair order including part numbers and details? That will make it much easier for me (and no doubt others) to present to their dealers.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

So my next question is has anyone had a manual regen done and if so how long did it take and what was the price? Also can it be done other than the dealer if they are wanting to much to perform the manual regen.


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

If your not in power reduced mode you dont need a manual regen.
Drive down the highway at 2500 rpm for 30 mins.
Thats just me though.

Edit.

I am going to check my bolts as well.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

Cruz15 said:


> If your not in power reduced mode you dont need a manual regen.
> Drive down the highway at 2500 rpm for 30 mins.
> Thats just me though.
> 
> ...


Ok I'm taking a 90 min trip on highway tommorrow so well see. Just want them 2 codes for the nox sensors gone. Might have to replace if they don't go away. And yes def check the studs and if u deal with salt in winter spray with some wd40 or something for rust prevention. Cant wait till u guys get to see the new diesel. You will be impressed with the thought and changes they did on new one.


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## dougc905 (May 24, 2015)

Reading the tech's notes, the tech did a lot more than reconnect the exhaust pipe. All of your broken wires could be because of the exhaust pipe moving up & down as you drove. So the pipe falls down and takes some sensors with it.





chevycruzeassembler said:


> View attachment 192210


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

I


dougc905 said:


> Reading the tech's notes, the tech did a lot more than reconnect the exhaust pipe. All of your broken wires could be because of the exhaust pipe moving up & down as you drove. So the pipe falls down and takes some sensors with it.


Yes that's why when diesel said post the part numbers I just snapped a pic of all of it in case someone could help me out with what might need changed. They said they fixed the ignition wire that was broke. Thanks for your help


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

TDCruze said:


> Your correct. That is not the DPF in the picture, but the resonator. The DPF is right after the turbo in front of the engine.
> 
> The exhaust being apart in this section would not affect the sensor readings or the regen cycles directly.
> However, the sensors in the pipe just up stream could have been exposed to the elements and become damaged over time.


It's not a resonator, it's the SCR Catalyst. The DEF Injector is located upstream a little, and together they make the entire system.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> So my next question is has anyone had a manual regen done and if so how long did it take and what was the price? Also can it be done other than the dealer if they are wanting to much to perform the manual regen.


I am not sure how long it took since I dropped the car off, but I have needed to have this done twice. it was in the $225 range. 

Here is why it happened and most likely how to prevent: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...sel-owners-read-can-save-you-trip-dealer.html

It may be different in your case due to the other issues. 




chevycruzeassembler said:


> Ok thanks I don't have anything to monitor it. Anyway to check without having that gauge. Might have to install a gauge


No, you need a gauge. People have had good luck with the Scangauge II. You can request it be programmed for teh Cruze diesel.

I also can't wait to see the new diesel! Can you give any insight as to when it may go on sale?


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## rockinrotho (Oct 18, 2013)

as i recall there is call on those NOX sensors, could this apply here


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## econrey (Jun 7, 2012)

You waited a month with the CEL on to take your car in for service?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> View attachment 192210


Thanks again for posting that. Do you know if 11516076 is not and bolt combo? Did they have to drill it out?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Snipesy said:


> It's not a resonator, it's the SCR Catalyst. The DEF Injector is located upstream a little, and together they make the entire system.


Ah, OK. Good info!


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## Reno12469 (Sep 25, 2015)

Yep, thats your SCR hanging there. There is a NOX sensor before and after the SCR. So you probably damaged the downstream NOX sensor by that being open and allowing debris to flow up into the exhaust while driving.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

This could be a DEF issue. I know the chrome exhaust on my last to semis gets worn off from the DEF. It could be the DEF is corrosive and eating the bolts on the exhaust.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Gator said:


> It could be the DEF is corrosive and eating the bolts on the exhaust.


Since the bolts in question are on the outside, there would have to be a leak of some kind.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

True the bolts are on the outside but that is a connection point and DEF is never 100% burnt off, so it is possible of seeping through at that connection point. DEF has a different oder at the burn point that is not highly noticeable if it is a leak at that connection till possibly it's to late. 
I just know it eats the chrome completely off my exhaust stack at the exit point, so what is it doing to our exhaust.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

I guess what I'm saying in the liquid form it crystalizes, in its vapor form it does damages


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

This is my exhaust


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

This is a chrome stack a little over two years old. The vapor eats the chrome off


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

FedEx for the Win!!


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

diesel said:


> I am not sure how long it took since I dropped the car off, but I have needed to have this done twice. it was in the $225 range.
> 
> Here is why it happened and most likely how to prevent: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...sel-owners-read-can-save-you-trip-dealer.html
> 
> ...


Thanks alot for all the info. Appreciate it. I'll read the article u linked. As fat as diesel release it's slated for 2017 but not sure exactly when.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

econrey said:


> You waited a month with the CEL on to take your car in for service?


Yes that's my fault and prob gonna cost me more now because of it. Was hoping it would correct itself. My engine light on my truck came on twice since 07 and turned off both times. But I'm gonna have to schedule a appt asap because yesterday I took on a 180 mile round trip for family function and lights still on for the remaining communication codes for nox sensors. Also I have another problem I hope is from what's going on with the sensors. When I make a complete stop and go to take off, I let my foot off the brake to take off and the car doesn't move, then slams into gear. I have to let foot off brake very slowly till I feel the gear engage or it engages very rough.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

diesel said:


> Thanks again for posting that. Do you know if 11516076 is not and bolt combo? Did they have to drill it out?


I'll get a answer for u soon about if it's a combo with nut and bolt. They only charged me for nut so not sure . But the tech said he was gonna heat up the studs and replace so not sure of new studs came with nuts or they just replaced those without charge. I do know there was no way the broken studs were long enough to reuse with new nuts.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> Yes that's my fault and prob gonna cost me more now because of it. Was hoping it would correct itself. My engine light on my truck came on twice since 07 and turned off both times. But I'm gonna have to schedule a appt asap because yesterday I took on a 180 mile round trip for family function and lights still on for the remaining communication codes for nox sensors. Also I have another problem I hope is from what's going on with the sensors. When I make a complete stop and go to take off, I let my foot off the brake to take off and the car doesn't move, then slams into gear. I have to let foot off brake very slowly till I feel the gear engage or it engages very rough.


First I've heard of that. I understand it to go into neutral at a stop, but I've not heard of it slamming into gear when you release the brake. 



chevycruzeassembler said:


> I'll get a answer for u soon about if it's a combo with nut and bolt. They only charged me for nut so not sure . But the tech said he was gonna heat up the studs and replace so not sure of new studs came with nuts or they just replaced those without charge. I do know there was no way the broken studs were long enough to reuse with new nuts.


Thanks. I guess he had to heat them up to get them out?


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

Gator said:


> True the bolts are on the outside but that is a connection point and DEF is never 100% burnt off, so it is possible of seeping through at that connection point. DEF has a different oder at the burn point that is not highly noticeable if it is a leak at that connection till possibly it's to late.
> I just know it eats the chrome completely off my exhaust stack at the exit point, so what is it doing to our exhaust.


i love the smell, smells like elmers paste from elementary school


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

diesel said:


> First I've heard of that. I understand it to go into neutral at a stop, but I've not heard of it slamming into gear when you release the brake.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I guess he had to heat them up to get them out?


Yes he heated up. I haven't got under yet to look but guessing he welded new studs on. I'll update if I find a def on what he did. And yes it's weird. When I let off brake I can tell it's not recognizing it because the car doesn't start moving like it should when you release brake. Then it jerks into gear


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Looks like stud bolts. Not good for a quick repair


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

See this as a lot of future repairs. 110000 on mine. Thanks for the heads up


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> When I let off brake I can tell it's not recognizing it because the car doesn't start moving like it should when you release brake. Then it jerks into gear


That might be an issue with the brake position sensor.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Gator said:


> Looks like stud bolts. Not good for a quick repair


Those aren't long for this world either.....nasty.
Although folks think they are hot, diesel exaust is comparatively cool when thinking about a gasser.

The mild steel studs, because they aren't getting super hot, are holding moisture and quickly reverting back to iron oxide.

If I was faced with this I would remove the studs and replace everything with stainless steel fasteners.
At least then, the flanges will rot off before the fasteners.

Rob


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Makes me happy to be further south than a lot of you guys!!! Hopefully I'll upgrade our exhaust long before it looks like any of those pics!!!


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

I know this is a crazy thought, but anyone that has miles on these are going to have these problems, what is the fix? Any chance of a bulletin or a recall on this issue? Will some wd40 or some sort of lubricant help?


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

IndyDiesel said:


> I know this is a crazy thought, but anyone that has miles on these are going to have these problems, what is the fix? Any chance of a bulletin or a recall on this issue? Will some wd40 or some sort of lubricant help?


A protectant/penetrant probably wouldn't hurt, but it would need to be applied almost constantly as it would always be getting washed off. Also if you thoroughly soak the bolts they will likely smoke and smell from the exhaust heat... High quality stainless fasteners is probably the best option, especially for northern cars.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Chris Tobin said:


> A protectant/penetrant probably wouldn't hurt, but it would need to be applied almost constantly as it would always be getting washed off. Also if you thoroughly soak the bolts they will likely smoke and smell from the exhaust heat... High quality stainless fasteners is probably the best option, especially for northern cars.


I will get some pics of my situation. I didn't drive mine in salt much this winter, heck it hardly snowed. I wonder if when the state puts this liquid salt solution down now here if that's worse? Replacing now with stainless stuff wouldn't be too difficult. Thanks. Gator observation that def may be corrosive may be spot on, if that's true will the stainless fasteners corrode as well or just slower? The flange looks like it's going to corrode no matter what.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Most factory stainless steel exhaust systems are low grade stainless and will still rust and corrode. Performance aftermarket stainless steel exhaust systems generally use higher grade stainless steel and will last longer. I can't remember the grades off the top of my head, but the stuff that looks kinda rusty like our factory exhaust systems is the low grade stuff while the stainless that looks more silver and will actually polish to a brilliant finish is higher quality and will last longer...

I don't know if anyone makes an aftermarket system for the Cruze Diesel yet, but I'm sure we can piece something together if there is no "kit" available...


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Gator said:


> See this as a lot of future repairs. 110000 on mine. Thanks for the heads up


Looking at that flange, I'm thinking electrolysis - as in two metals of the wrong type. One will corrode to "save" the other. I can't see DEF fumes being that selective. I'm thinking two parts have been joined that was never signed off by a corrosion engineer.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

Gator said:


> See this as a lot of future repairs. 110000 on mine. Thanks for the heads up


Yeah no problem. Glad to raise some awareness on it. Looks like pb blaster or wd40 is in alot of our futures. I'm gonna spray mine whenever I do my oil changes.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

ChevyGuy said:


> That might be an issue with the brake position sensor.


Yes good thought. Only doing occasionally after ran. If codes get reset and I still am experiencing it I'll check that next


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

Robby said:


> Those aren't long for this world either.....nasty.
> Although folks think they are hot, diesel exaust is comparatively cool when thinking about a gasser.
> 
> The mild steel studs, because they aren't getting super hot, are holding moisture and quickly reverting back to iron oxide.
> ...


Good idea. I thought about repairing myself and running a bolt and nut through myself. If the wd40 yearly doesn't prevent from happening again next time I will do something like that.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Re: Brake Position sensor. If it's bad, you'll most likely get a code. Note that it's not a switch, it's a position sensor. The BCM converts that into on/off brake. However, we've had a couple of members run into problems with the calibration. The brake pedal wasn't always returning to exactly the same position when you let go. It was a mechanical thing. The result was their brake lights stayed on. But I could see how the same thing could cause a problem with not going into gear when you take your foot off.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Motorkote , absorbed into the metal and water resistance.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Diesel let us know how this comes out at the dealer, I hope they don't try to sell a whole exhaust component instead of drilling out studs and make a simple repair.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

ChevyGuy said:


> Re: Brake Position sensor. If it's bad, you'll most likely get a code. Note that it's not a switch, it's a position sensor. The BCM converts that into on/off brake. However, we've had a couple of members run into problems with the calibration. The brake pedal wasn't always returning to exactly the same position when you let go. It was a mechanical thing. The result was their brake lights stayed on. But I could see how the same thing could cause a problem with not going into gear when you take your foot off.


Thanks!!!!! I will def look into this. I'll hop to threads about these and have that looked at. Appreciate it. Also going to let them know about the bolts and rust so they can let the dealers know to check and send bulletin if they hopefully decide too.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

Thanks for all the help guys. Thanks for buying a cruze and hope everyone's filled with lots of trouble free miles. I'll keep the thread posted with the diagnostics outcomes when I get car back from service. Taking in this week.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Gator said:


> Diesel let us know how this comes out at the dealer, I hope they don't try to sell a whole exhaust component instead of drilling out studs and make a simple repair.


I am actually rethinking my plan of attack on this. I may buy the gasket at the Chevy dealer and then take it to a shop I am familiar with that specializes in exhaust work. I haven't decided yet.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

I was thinking Midas Diesel


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

What I find sad is I have 2002 Silverado pickup with 225000 miles on it and still has all the original exhaust, this car is not even 3 years old and this. I still think it's DEF related no matter how some think I'm crazy. I have been around DEF since its introduction and see every day at work the problems it creates.


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## Reno12469 (Sep 25, 2015)

Gator, I see that wear on a lot of (Certain company) trucks that come to our facility, As far as W900's and T800's or T880's go, I never see that on their stacks. I think that it's a heat issue. Mostly all of the T680's have sleepers and have weed burners on them. We do have a couple day cabs sitting on the lot, but their exhaust comes up on the side of the cabs. (Certain company) is the only one I see with stacks on the back like that.


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## OkieTD (Jun 17, 2014)

Here is mine, oklahoma, 2 easy winters.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Reno12469, I to work for Fedex freight. Heat would blue chrome, look at any motorcycle and you would see that. The only trucks the chrome is wearing on is every truck that runs DEF.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Please read


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Here is the list DEF is corrosive to


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

our t800s have no chrome issues


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## kmacleod (Oct 15, 2010)

chevycruzeassembler said:


> So my next question is has anyone had a manual regen done and if so how long did it take and what was the price? Also can it be done other than the dealer if they are wanting to much to perform the manual regen.



I had a similar problem last Fall in Sept 2015. I thought the CEL would go off and correct itself. I found out when the CEL comes on, the regen process is interrupted.
In order to fix, the vehicle must go to the dealership to be regenned. Otherwise your DPF will eventually plug......To initiate a manual regen, the system must be hooked up to a service system that connects to the GM "SERVICE" cloud. Mine took four regens over three hours and a software upgrade to the ECM to resolve the issue.

Now things work just fine and my mileage couldn't be better.



Ken


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

IndyDiesel said:


> I know this is a crazy thought, but anyone that has miles on these are going to have these problems, what is the fix? Any chance of a bulletin or a recall on this issue? Will some wd40 or some sort of lubricant help?


Hello IndyDiesel,

We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused. If you could send us a private message, we'd be happy to check your VIN for any open recalls or service announcements listed referencing your concern. Please make sure to include your VIN when sending the inquiry. 

Thanks!

Jasmine
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Chevy Customer Care said:


> Hello IndyDiesel,
> 
> We apologize for the inconvenience this has caused. If you could send us a private message, we'd be happy to check your VIN for any open recalls or service announcements listed referencing your concern. Please make sure to include your VIN when sending the inquiry.
> 
> ...


Jasmine,

thanks for for the kind response, my car doesn't have this issue yet, if you read the thread and look at posted pics this shouldn't be happening in such a short period of time in my opinion. It appears to be a defect in design. My preference would be for you to forward this thread to the proper design team to identify a proper fix and so this doesn't happen again.

Thanks,
IndyDiesel


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> Jasmine,
> 
> thanks for for the kind response, my car doesn't have this issue yet, if you read the thread and look at posted pics this shouldn't be happening in such a short period of time in my opinion. It appears to be a defect in design. My preference would be for you to forward this thread to the proper design team to identify a proper fix and so this doesn't happen again.
> 
> ...


I second this request.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

I think all you will hear back from Chevrolet is crickets. I sent msgs on my EGR and heard nothing back.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Just hate the thought if flanges get to the point of deteration and separate from the pipe then you have to replace the whole exhaust. Then I see class action lawsuit at that point.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Tomko, could we find a way to thumbtack this post and the other person somewhere that had the same problem added to this post. Maybe as exhaust separation and bring attention to the northern drivers to keep a close eye on this before it ends up a coastly repair for others. Thanks


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Not familiar with the other thread. 

FWIW my dealer told me about a year ago that my exhaust separated somewhere under the car and caused a code to set. The dealer had no idea what had caused the separation - but suspected that it was ice damage. They replaced the bolt at no charge and I haven't thought about it since. 

I will change the title of this thread to something more descriptive to help others find it. I will sticky it if we start to get a rash recurrences.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Tomko, the other thread is the exhaust corrosion right below this one. They kind of tye together. Same issue


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Chevrolet has been building cars for what a 100 years or so, this isn't their first rodeo. I think this is obviously a defect in design, it needs to be identified and GM should fix this issue on future diesel models and some remedy for our cars. Nice of the Chevrolet Team to assist when a problem, all I was asking/requesting is if this is due to DEF being corrosive and using inferior materials there should be a fix prior to the exhaust falling off and being a severe problem. It needs to get back to the folks/engineers that designed this don't make the same mistake again.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

If any owner has warranty left I would scan the two pics from this thread and pursue a long term fix for this. Using the same parts will only happen again.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Title now: *Detached Exhaust @ SCR Catalyst*


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Gator said:


> If any owner has warranty left I would scan the two pics from this thread and pursue a long term fix for this. Using the same parts will only happen again.


Do we know if anyone from a Southern Climate in USA with no road salt with 100K plus miles or there abouts has a similar issue as do those of us in the northern states?


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Indydiesel, how's yours look???


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Gator said:


> I still think it's DEF related no matter how some think I'm crazy. I have been around DEF since its introduction and see every day at work the problems it creates.


I've seen the photos of the trucks - I can see that from the fumes that get sucked along behind the stack. But in the Cruze photos, the corrosion is at the flange (outside) and doesn't seem to follow the pattern for airflow (if it was leaking at the joint). The kind of metal used for the flange seems to better describe where it's corroded and where it's not.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

I don't see any additional coverage related to exaust, diesel or gasoline, beyond 3yr/36000 miles.

Actually, I am assuming that the exaust is 3/36 since it not even mentioned.

Rob


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Gator said:


> Indydiesel, how's yours look???


I plan to get some pics in a couple weeks when I get oil changed, it will have 12k miles or so on it then. Will post them, mine should look decent, it was in Augusta GA until first week of January of 16 then in Indy area for a couple months of winter but we didn't get much snow. Used snow blower one time all winter. Will post some pics in a couple weeks.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

I think you will be good indydiesel, not many miles.


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## chevycruzeassembler (Aug 20, 2013)

kmacleod said:


> I had a similar problem last Fall in Sept 2015. I thought the CEL would go off and correct itself. I found out when the CEL comes on, the regen process is interrupted.
> In order to fix, the vehicle must go to the dealership to be regenned. Otherwise your DPF will eventually plug......To initiate a manual regen, the system must be hooked up to a service system that connects to the GM "SERVICE" cloud. Mine took four regens over three hours and a software upgrade to the ECM to resolve the issue.
> 
> Now things work just fine and my mileage couldn't be better.
> ...


K. Thanks.


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## Kexlox (Nov 4, 2014)

IndyDiesel said:


> I plan to get some pics in a couple weeks when I get oil changed, it will have 12k miles or so on it then. Will post them, mine should look decent, it was in Augusta GA until first week of January of 16 then in Indy area for a couple months of winter but we didn't get much snow. Used snow blower one time all winter. Will post some pics in a couple weeks.


I'll crawl under and snap a pic if needed this weekend. I'm at 48K, two Indy winters.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> Do we know if anyone from a Southern Climate in USA with no road salt with 100K plus miles or there abouts has a similar issue as do those of us in the northern states?


Someone from Oregon (I think) posted a pic of theirs on another thread and it didn't look bad at all after a couple winters.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I am planning on taking mine to an exhaust shop next week. I will supply gasket 13229872 and hopefully they will have standard nuts'bolts that will work.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Diesel could you post a pic of the old gasket just to kind of conform if DEF seeped to the threads and premature the corrosion. I know people are saying I'm nuts with my opinion on this put I think it corroded way to early


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## GlennGlenn (Nov 27, 2015)

Gator said:


> Diesel could you post a pic of the old gasket just to kind of conform if DEF seeped to the threads and premature the corrosion. I know people are saying I'm nuts with my opinion on this put I think it corroded way to early



X2, on a car with way less than 100k miles and only two years old?? I agree, way too early. Cat piss corrosion issue??


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Gator said:


> Diesel could you post a pic of the old gasket just to kind of conform if DEF seeped to the threads and premature the corrosion. I know people are saying I'm nuts with my opinion on this put I think it corroded way to early


Yes, I will have them save the old parts for me.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

I got under mine to do oil, fuel filter, and transmission drain and fill two weeks ago and I specifically looked at this after reading these reports. Mine are pretty corroded but not in a way that I'm worried about failure. Maybe another 2-3 years and we'll see. 

I'm only at 33K miles and 3 winters though but drive almost exclusively in the Erie, PA area which is about as bad salt wise as anywhere in the USA. The car has been fluid filmed inside all body panels and underneath but that doesn't mean much for exhausts because the heat promptly burns it off. Everything else looks good.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

grease those studs every year! ..... I had a tough time just removing my stock downpipe because of the rust around these 2 bolts.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Diesel, did you do this repair yet????


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Gator said:


> Diesel, did you do this repair yet????


Wow, I completely forgot about this, including checking it out when I did my oil change a couple weeks ago. Thanks for reminding me. I need to get this on my calendar, i don't want to get caught by surprise.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Forget if I posted in here. When my nox 2 sensor was replaced I noticed that the dealership changed these bolts. Figured it was so I wouldn't have any issue down the road.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

money_man said:


> Forget if I posted in here. When my nox 2 sensor was replaced I noticed that the dealership changed these bolts. Figured it was so I wouldn't have any issue down the road.


Can you ask them what they had to do to get the old ones out? How much did they charge?


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Charged me nothing. I'm still in the bumper to bumper warranty though. I assume they took the old bolt out and put these new ones in. Sometimes the studs need to be pounded out


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

money_man said:


> Charged me nothing. I'm still in the bumper to bumper warranty though. I assume they took the old bolt out and put these new ones in. Sometimes the studs need to be pounded out


I thought the studs might be an issue. So you're at least good for another couple years.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Do they cover this under corrosion, or do they try to worm out of it by claiming it's not covered because it's emissions?


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Not sure. They did mine and didn't even mention it or put it on the slip. I only found out when I put it on my hoist to see which sensor they replaced.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Gator said:


> Diesel, did you do this repair yet????


 @Gator Finally got this done while I had the car at the dealer for other things. I almost forgot to ask them to do it!


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Add me to the list....I was under the car shooting the inside of the rockers and underneath with fluid film and noticed one of my studs was broken and another not far behind....I didn't have the time to mess with it so I left it alone for now but it's in the back of my head....Maybe look into a stainless replacement?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

KpaxFAQ said:


> Add me to the list....I was under the car shooting the inside of the rockers and underneath with fluid film and noticed one of my studs was broken and another not far behind....I didn't have the time to mess with it so I left it alone for now but it's in the back of my head....Maybe look into a stainless replacement?


I figure it's a once every 3-4 years maintenance item. I do wonder how ling the flange will last, though.


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## Gator (Jul 14, 2013)

Thanks for the update, still haven't done mine either, just amazed with the emissions letters coming out and we are past there 120000 mile threshold.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Gator said:


> Thanks for the update, still haven't done mine either, just amazed with the emissions letters coming out and we are past there 120000 mile threshold.


I am going to call my dealer to see if there's anything that can be done in terms of goodwill on this. I'm not expecting anything, but it's always worth a shot.


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