# Vibrate/shake at Red-light and Terrible Backup Camera Display



## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

Hello,

I believe posting in this section would be better option due to different issues otherwise I can post in different sections.

The issues is on my girlfriend's car(2014 LTZ RS package). She also has a sister that has the exact same car except different color, same dealership , new, and same time purchase. Her sister's car has none of the issues. We have taken my girlfriend's car to three different dealership, they said something along the line: it is normal, I do not feel vibration/shake, It's normal, etc. I do not remember the miles we started taking her car to the dealership, it was less then 10,000 miles.

1. At a red-light stop, the car would vibrate/shake a good bit. Best way I can describe it is when the RPM is low but not too low. The RPM does not move and stays at 900. I have tried turning off the A/C as some people suggested on the forum to others if that is the case and it happens only in 'D' not even in sports shift mode.

2. The car's backup camera display is terrible comparing to her sister's car. It is day and night. One dealership did agree to replace it, it is slightly better(seems to getting worst again), however it is no where near the display of her sister's car.

3. I do not know if her sister's car has this scenario. We would be going down back roads and sometimes we can smell the skunk coming through the vents. Also, sometimes car exhaust(older cars or cars have exhaust issues). The recirculation light is on. I know vehicles are not 100% airtight, however it smells like the outside air is coming in. I do not know if the intake actuator is stuck open partially or not.

Anyone that has suggestions to troubleshoot the issues.

Thank You


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, first time my son rode with me at a traffic light, said, dad, your engine died. No it didn't, so much for this being normal. Usual stupid remark is dey all do dis. Sure sounds like a misfire, those spark plug springs tend to get stuck in that stupid shoulder in the boot creating a large gap.

I wanted to add anti-seize to the spark plug threads so I could get them out when the time came, saw a spring hung up in a shoulder, stretched those springs out. Don't give a darn what others say on this board, I hate needle point NGK plugs, replaced them with Autolite APP3923's, need that meat to carry away the heat. A Bosch copy for the NGK's, also a bad plug based on the weak theory a needle point retains a sharper edge. Gaped them all a 26 mils, also used dielectric grease inside the boots, these will bake on. 1.4 L runs real nice.

Bumped the gasket in front of the fresh air intake, it fell off, used some silicone glue with a spot every five inches, and still get it off, but at least in won't fall off. 

Is the camera lens dirty? That flat space in the rear of the trunk creates a vacuum and on my Cruze, the dirtiest part of the car. But only the first step.

GM is sure pushing dealerships to remodel. Someone should do a survey on this issue, the fancier the dealership, the worse the service. Three GM dealerships in town use to be good, now they are terrible after spending all that money to remodel. Their property taxes also skyrocketed. 

Hear stupid statements like your brake pedal going to the floor is not a problem, we ain't getting any codes. Maybe to pay for all the expensive remodeling had to hire idiots to run the place.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Engine shake at idle points to a vacuum leak somewhere.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Ha, sure was this way with GM CMFI, upper intake manifold leak would shake your butt off. Also said it was economical, dealer wanted 750 bucks for the piece of plastic they called a combination regulator and injector with plastic straws to each cylinder intake. 

With most FI vehicles using sequential injection, idle speed increases with a vacuum leak that is exactly what the TB does, lets in more air.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Tomko said:


> Engine shake at idle points to a vacuum leak somewhere.


Or a broken engine mount. Regardless, contact the Chevy Customer Care account here about your issues. You're correct that this car isn't working properly.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

NickD said:


> I wanted to add anti-seize to the spark plug threads so I could get them out when the time came, saw a spring hung up in a shoulder, stretched those springs out. Don't give a darn what others say on this board, I hate needle point NGK plugs, replaced them with Autolite APP3923's, need that meat to carry away the heat. A Bosch copy for the NGK's, also a bad plug based on the weak theory a needle point retains a sharper edge. Gaped them all a 26 mils, also used dielectric grease inside the boots, these will bake on. 1.4 L runs real nice.


I thought about regapping the spark plugs and/or trying a difference brand name. I did not think of the spark plug boots would cause any issue until now.



NickD said:


> Is the camera lens dirty? That flat space in the rear of the trunk creates a vacuum and on my Cruze, the dirtiest part of the car. But only the first step.


I wish is that simple. We are thinking about just installing an aftermarket backup camera system, although we do not want another display screen on top the dash. At night is almost useless. I will try post a picture of the backup camera at night. I know many settings will differ the image, though be a general idea what it looks like.



obermd said:


> Or a broken engine mount. Regardless, contact the Chevy Customer Care account here about your issues. You're correct that this car isn't working properly.


I took a quick a look and seems fine. Hard to judge without taking the mount off.


I guess we will bug the dealership to do a vacuum leak test as other has mentioned. No clue if they will do the test since the vibration is normal or mechanic does not feel it.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> 1. At a red-light stop, the car would vibrate/shake a good bit. Best way I can describe it is when the RPM is low but not too low. The RPM does not move and stays at 900. I have tried turning off the A/C as some people suggested on the forum to others if that is the case and it happens only in 'D' not even in sports shift mode.


The fact it stops in sport mode makes me think it's a transmission problem. Probably not shifting into neutral properly.





Hypera said:


> 2. The car's backup camera display is terrible comparing to her sister's car. It is day and night. One dealership did agree to replace it, it is slightly better(seems to getting worst again), however it is no where near the display of her sister's car.


Bad in what way? Mine isn't great. It's a cheap camera and not photographic quality, but it's adequate to see what's behind you.





Hypera said:


> 3. I do not know if her sister's car has this scenario. We would be going down back roads and sometimes we can smell the skunk coming through the vents. Also, sometimes car exhaust(older cars or cars have exhaust issues). The recirculation light is on. I know vehicles are not 100% airtight, however it smells like the outside air is coming in. I do not know if the intake actuator is stuck open partially or not.


Reciculate will not block out all outside air. But you might want to pull the air cleaner for the cabin to make sure there isn't a pile of leaf litter on it and then do a HVAC Computer reset.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Beg, borrow or steal a vacuum gauge from somewhere. It is a Swiss Army knife of diagnostic tools and usually dirt cheap. Remove the vacuum supply from your brake booster and connect the vacuum gauge to it. Start the car and watch the readings from idle, acceleration to deceleration. 

Plus you can use the same vacuum gauge to compare suction performance. Want to watch a door-to-door vacuum salesman pee his pants? Whip out your vacuum gauge and see just how much it sucks. BTW in case you're wondering, I have an old-style Electrolux central with a K&N on its exhaust and a Miele canister.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Also thought about the AT not shifting into neutral in drive at idle, but if you shift into neutral, that vibration should go away.

Ha, a heck of a lot easier to be there, can tall a lot how an engine is running by the odor, sound, and feel of the exhaust.

Usually the first questions asked is, are you getting any codes?


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> The fact it stops in sport mode makes me think it's a transmission problem. Probably not shifting into neutral properly.
> 
> Bad in what way? Mine isn't great. It's a cheap camera and not photographic quality, but it's adequate to see what's behind you.
> 
> Reciculate will not block out all outside air. But you might want to pull the air cleaner for the cabin to make sure there isn't a pile of leaf litter on it and then do a HVAC Computer reset.


I know it is not suppose to be photographic quality. This camera quality is not adequate to see behind at night, good thing we grew up using mirrors. I will check the cabin air filter for blockage.



Tomko said:


> Beg, borrow or steal a vacuum gauge from somewhere. It is a Swiss Army knife of diagnostic tools and usually dirt cheap. Remove the vacuum supply from your brake booster and connect the vacuum gauge to it. Start the car and watch the readings from idle, acceleration to deceleration.
> 
> Plus you can use the same vacuum gauge to compare suction performance. Want to watch a door-to-door vacuum salesman pee his pants? Whip out your vacuum gauge and see just how much it sucks. BTW in case you're wondering, I have an old-style Electrolux central with a K&N on its exhaust and a Miele canister.


I will try to see if I can borrow vacuum gauge from someone.



NickD said:


> Also thought about the AT not shifting into neutral in drive at idle, but if you shift into neutral, that vibration should go away.
> 
> Ha, a heck of a lot easier to be there, can tall a lot how an engine is running by the odor, sound, and feel of the exhaust.
> 
> Usually the first questions asked is, are you getting any codes?


Shifting into neutral differently stops the vibrations. I asked them about the car shifts into neutral if the car stopped long enough in drive and they said no such feature on the Cruze.


No codes at all.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)




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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

The display looks a little noisy. Like perhaps there's a bad connection or cable from the camera to the MyLink.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> I asked them about the car shifts into neutral if the car stopped long enough in drive and they said no such feature on the Cruze.


*sigh* I'd suggest looking for another dealer.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Still getting frequent brochures from my Chevy dealer.

Bring your 2012 Cruze in for service, WE ARE THE EXPERTS!


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Hypera said:


> Shifting into neutral differently stops the vibrations. I asked them about the car shifts into neutral if the car stopped long enough in drive and they said no such feature on the Cruze.
> 
> 
> No codes at all.


Obviously this dealer doesn't have enough monkeys to write Hamlet. Get another dealership ASAP. I bet their shake diagnosis was "No codes => no problems".


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> *sigh* I'd suggest looking for another dealer.


We are running out of dealerships that are close by to chose.



NickD said:


> Still getting frequent brochures from my Chevy dealer.
> Bring your 2012 Cruze in for service, WE ARE THE EXPERTS!


Hahaha... (Some) experts are telling you "It is normal."



obermd said:


> Obviously this dealer doesn't have enough monkeys to write Hamlet. Get another dealership ASAP. I bet their shake diagnosis was "No codes => no problems".


Many dealerships and mechanic shops are probably going that route, no codes = no problems. It is becoming rare to find good ones now days.
Then again you could have that one mechanic in the same dealership who would believes you and spend more time.
I do not know if there is a website that customers can review the mechanics themselves, not the dealership. Something similar to ZocDoc website.



ChevyGuy said:


> The display looks a little noisy. Like perhaps there's a bad connection or cable from the camera to the MyLink.


Perhaps could be bad connection or cable, I am thinking might be the MyLink unit itself after the camera was replaced.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> Perhaps could be bad connection or cable, I am thinking might be the MyLink unit itself after the camera was replaced.


I've been conditioned from years as a AV tech - suspect cable before electronics. Granted, this cable doesn't go though the flexing that most cables go though, but that doesn't mean it didn't get pinched or slammed during assembly.

If you feel adventitious, you could go into your dash and make sure it's plugged in good and that it doesn't change as you flex the connection.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> I've been conditioned from years as a AV tech - suspect cable before electronics. Granted, this cable doesn't go though the flexing that most cables go though, but that doesn't mean it didn't get pinched or slammed during assembly.
> 
> If you feel adventitious, you could go into your dash and make sure it's plugged in good and that it doesn't change as you flex the connection.


I thought the OEM camera cable goes all the to the MyLink unit without a quick-disconnect in the middle of the line. I guess not. Is there an instructions somewhere showing how to remove the dash and everything for 2014 or are they are the same as older models?


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Purchased a Cruze with lots of driver's window wind noise. Looked at the weather strip, was a quarter of an inch wider than the others. Service manager said this was normal until I dragged him by his hand to look at other 2012's in his lot, where their weather strips fit snugly. Where in the heck did Chevy get this weather strip from? And why me? Took this for him to order another one that did fit snugly.

Maybe you have to do the same thing by comparing your camera images with other similar vehicles and hope your service manager isn't blind. Had to do the same thing with my rear disc calipers after a couple of years. Dealer already had 2012's used in his parking lot with shiny calipers, mine were never plated and a pile of rust. Can only speculate why he had four used 2012's in his lot, maybe these people took his advice like he gave to me with problems, trade it in for a new one. Idiot didn't even know you need to work the parking brake to adjust these things, neither did his assistant. 

My shop manual never even heard about rear view cameras. But in looking at aftermarket types, two different kinds. Some use a video cable, where others only require 12V at the back and communicate with bluetooth or some other RF frequency. Just guessing you may have the latter, looks like using an old TV set using a pair of rabbit ears way out in the sticks.

Worked in the communication field for years, can measure the output power of the transmitter and the sensitivity of the receiver to determine problems. Automotive is void of any such specifications, just replace with a know good unit is all the shop manual has to say. You paid for this stuff and have a right to expect it to work.

Ha, my son laid out 3,000 bucks for an entertainment center for my grandkids. DVD goes in the dash, has so fold down screens in the rear. Don't ask me why, but running a video cable for the screen, but for the audio, only has six channels where he has to tune his FM radio to the correct frequency. Problem is on the only six channels they gave him, powerful FM stations causing interference.

His dealer can't do anything about this an neither can I, should have embedded that audio signal with the video, not that this technology is already over 75 years old. No circuit diagrams, use ASIC's that cost about 50 cents each with no access to the signals you need. You just wasted 3,000 bucks, or drive someplace where you can find a free channel.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

NickD said:


> Idiot didn't even know you need to work the parking brake to adjust these things, neither did his assistant.


Nick - My 6000STE required this procedure for it's rear discs but I didn't think this was the case for the Cruze?


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Tomko said:


> Nick - My 6000STE required this procedure for it's rear discs but I didn't think this was the case for the Cruze?


Been dealing with these since 1978, dead give away is that the piston has to be screwed in when replacing the pads, translated, as when the pads wear, the parking brake with a ratcheting mechanism unscrews that shaft. Earlier ones were using a stiff locked steel spring with one way teeth in them. Stupid design, those teeth wore in a groove in the piston, and working that lever back and forth would just swing those worn out teeth in that groove back and forth with no ratcheting effect.

Yet another problem is that shaft outside of the fluid circuit would rust solid into the piston. You could remove the piston bolt, soak it in hydrochloric acid, remove that bolt, clean the threads, and coat it with anti-seize that would last much longer, but were dead with worn teeth. Back then, could only buy new calipers from your dealer that were 300 bucks a piece, for two, cost more than what your car was worth. Was able to convert one to drums when I could go to the wrecking yard and remove those myself.

Have no idea what the Cruze is using for a ratcheting device, politely asked my dealer for an old one, lying basterd said he has to return those to GM, that is a load of sh!t, pardon my language. To at least learn if these are repairable. But for now, saving cash for new ones. 

Do have caliper repair kits for a couple of bucks.










Or even rebuilt ones for less than 60 bucks, so don't consider this as a major problem as it was back then.










Already know enough to put a stick on the brake pedal so all the fluid does not drain from the ABS causing air pockets. Pedal was still going to the floor when I got my Cruze back, but took four vacuuming attempts to bring it back up again. Had to take it for a short drive each time so the ABS pump would kick in, can't even hot wire the ABS pump anymore.

This stuff really tees me off. Did beg my dealer just to give me the new calipers, but insisted they had to install them. Bolts were finger tight and that damper was ready to fall off. And took me four times as long to correct their problems if I did the job myself. I just get tired of fighting these basterds. And that is exactly what they are.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> I thought the OEM camera cable goes all the to the MyLink unit without a quick-disconnect in the middle of the line. I guess not.


Looking at my 2013 manual, I see 3 intermediate connectors between camera and radio. But there could be problems with the connector at each end, or the cable itself could have been crushed.

Edit: Locations:

X200 - Interment Panel Harness to Body Harness
X900 - Rear Compartment Lid Harness to Body Harness
X915 - License Lamp Harness to Rear Compartment Lid Harness




Hypera said:


> Is there an instructions somewhere showing how to remove the dash and everything for 2014 or are they are the same as older models?


I'd imagine that all first gen Cruzes are close enough that the dash instructions are generic.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

NickD said:


> My shop manual never even heard about rear view cameras.


Maybe the 2012 didn't have that option. But try looking under "Safety and Security" > "Object Detection". Page 13-45 in my manual. (Yeah, doesn't make sense to me either.)


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

One of the dealership, we asked them to look at their 2014 models on the lot (back then) and they refused. He just keep saying they all like that and normal...

They probably found the one size fits all weather strips online to cut cost. That is terrible about the brakes, good thing you know cars inside and out. 

ChevyGuy, I will probably try this weekend and start exploring the cables and hopefully just a loose connector somewhere...


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I think I'd disconnect the battery before fooling with that instrument panel connector. I'm not sure what runs though it. But otherwise, I don't see any harm in that.


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

To the OP, Your shudder at a stop light is a transmission issue. 
I had the same thing. Put the car in drive, it drives fine, but come to a stop, and the car shudders like the engine is going to die. Put it in Manual mode, and the shudder goes away.
Tell them to check for PI0928D.
its a clutch not holding., they had to replace plates, pistons, seals, fluid and overhaul the housing.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> I think I'd disconnect the battery before fooling with that instrument panel connector. I'm not sure what runs though it. But otherwise, I don't see any harm in that.


Good idea, I do not want set off the airbags, short something, etc.



newsguy99 said:


> To the OP, Your shudder at a stop light is a transmission issue.
> I had the same thing. Put the car in drive, it drives fine, but come to a stop, and the car shudders like the engine is going to die. Put it in Manual mode, and the shudder goes away.
> Tell them to check for PI0928D.
> its a clutch not holding., they had to replace plates, pistons, seals, fluid and overhaul the housing.


Is PI0928D a code or something? A clutch not holding on AT? Almost sounds an overhaul of the transmission.
May I get something more to go on then to check for PI0928D, otherwise they will probably say it is normal and send us off.


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

Here's my invoice of my repair. Print this, and take it with you.. It also gives you more information about the repair, and everything they had to do. 
Hope that helps get it fixed. Most annoying thing ever.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> Is PI0928D a code or something?


PI = Preliminary Information Bulletin. The dealer should have access to that.

A quick search turns up this link. You can't see the details, but that should give you the idea - it's a known issue.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

That seems like a good bit of work on the invoice.

It is good to know it is a known issue.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Hypera said:


> That seems like a good bit of work on the invoice.
> 
> It is good to know it is a known issue.


The Cruze's automatic transmission has an internal clutch and clutch pads for each gear. The only automatic part about this is the shifting being computer controlled. It is a lot of work but it's also covered under the Power Train warranty.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

obermd said:


> The Cruze's automatic transmission has an internal clutch and clutch pads for each gear. The only automatic part about this is the shifting being computer controlled. It is a lot of work but it's also covered under the Power Train warranty.


That would be a fun job for them... Good to know is covered under the Powertrain Warranty, I was going go read the warranty information. Now getting them to agree is is the issue is another story.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> Now getting them to agree is is the issue is another story.


You might try what I did. Write up the complaints in a bullet form in a fairly large font. Make sure that it references the PI number. Leave a copy on the passenger seat where the tech will find it. 

I printed two copies, one I left on the seat, the other I gave to the service writer. I don't think it got past the service writer, but I got a phone call "We found a bulletin about this...." :uhh:

But at the end of the day, I don't need to get into a fight over taking credit - as long as they find it, I win. :goodjob:


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

The only down side to getting this fixed, was they kept my car for 2 weeks.
I had to drive a crappy 1.8 LS.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> You might try what I did. Write up the complaints in a bullet form in a fairly large font. Make sure that it references the PI number. Leave a copy on the passenger seat where the tech will find it.
> 
> I printed two copies, one I left on the seat, the other I gave to the service writer. I don't think it got past the service writer, but I got a phone call "We found a bulletin about this...." :uhh:
> 
> But at the end of the day, I don't need to get into a fight over taking credit - as long as they find it, I win. :goodjob:


I might take up on your suggestion. Seems like a great idea. Hahaha, leave the credit fighting to them and yes you won




newsguy99 said:


> The only down side to getting this fixed, was they kept my car for 2 weeks.
> I had to drive a crappy 1.8 LS.


Did they give you a loaner's car from the dealership? Otherwise she needs to get a car from somewhere. Classes are starting up...


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

With the old hydramatics, and even the lesser TH-400 3 speed transmissions, hydras were four speed. To test that your engine was putting out full HP, block the front wheels, hook a tach to the engine, put it in drive and floor the gas pedal and should hit around 1,800-1,900 rpm.

The torque converter emulated a dynamometer to put a full load on the engine. But should limit this to less than a ten second test, it will get very hot. But if you did fry it, back then, was only 150 bucks to purchase a brand new one. And could switch it in an hour or so.

Try this on these new pieces of crap, you will burn up this transmission in an instant. Already knew about torque converter heat and still have a TH-400, well this one cost be 500 bucks to rebuild using all Borg Warner parts, and replaced everything. But been driving these for over 50 years now. If stopped for any period of time, would shift it into neutral, just one click up from drive. Got way over 200K miles out of these with a number of vehicles with zero problems.

Now electronics does this for you, Vss is at zero, engine is at idle speed, even making these things a heck of a lot cheaper, for all you know, if this is your problem, not shifting into neutral automatically your problems could very well be electronic. Yeah, met more people getting screwed by shops saying they needed a new transmission when the problem was electronic. this is going back some odd 25 years.

And a 89 cent microcontroller is a hail of a lot cheaper than a mechanical governor, like a double screwing job. One reason insisted on getting a manual transmission in my Cruze, already have enough problems, don't need anymore.

No, I didn't get screwed with my latest TH-400, previous owner was using this motorhome to pull an 8,000 pound camper, from his lowest price, knocked off another $2,000.00 because I already knew I had to rebuild it, take it or leave it, he took it. And in city traffic, shift it into neutral when waiting a half a day for a traffic light to turn green. Not exactly helpless yet. 

Another similar item is a stalled torque test on starter motors. Locked with a torque wrench, hit it with 6 or 12 volts and take a reading. Try this with an starter made today, will see a large puff of smoke, and in an instant, are history. The kind of crap we are paying dearly for today.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> Looking at my 2013 manual, I see 3 intermediate connectors between camera and radio. But there could be problems with the connector at each end, or the cable itself could have been crushed.
> 
> Edit: Locations:
> 
> ...


Do you possible have an diagram for those location or a little more specific? 

The dealership will look at her car next week due to us having both needing our cars for classes this week.

The cabin air filter was not obstructed by leaves or anything else. It is dirty though and needs to be replaced.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Hypera said:


> Do you possible have an diagram for those location or a little more specific?


I'll have to check. I'm pretty sure if you think about the assembly of the car as modules, the locations will make sense. The X915 would be "inside" the lid near the license place. X900 would be snapped together when the trunk was bolted onto the body. The X200 is probably buried were all the wiring in the instrument panel meets the body. Again, something that would be done when that part was dropped into the car.


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'll have to check. I'm pretty sure if you think about the assembly of the car as modules, the locations will make sense. The X915 would be "inside" the lid near the license place. X900 would be snapped together when the trunk was bolted onto the body.  The X200 is probably buried were all the wiring in the instrument panel meets the body. Again, something that would be done when that part was dropped into the car.


That helps some, thank you!


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## Hypera (Jul 7, 2014)

TL: DR: The Cruze is in the dealership's shop for repairing of the transmission. Tech guy agrees the vibration is not normal. PI0928D matches the issue as well.

At first, the tech told us that it feels normal. So we wanted us to drive around and point out the issue. My girlfriend started driving around and in about 5 minutes in you can feel the vibration a little and tech guy begin to feel the vibration as well. About 10 minutes in, the vibration has gotten worst and he agrees that he definitely feels the vibration. Tech guy said he did not drive that long in the beginning, though the second time around he drove longer and he said the longer you drive, the worst it gets. He also ask/talk to couple other people and they agree is not normal at all. The PI0928D I gave to the tech guy, he looked it up and told us it is a match (Kudos to newsguy99 for that).


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## newsguy99 (May 24, 2013)

Thanks for the Kudos Hypera.. And YES, the dealership gave me a 2015 1.8 LS Cruze to drive while mine was in for this repair.


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