# first oil change???



## racer114 (Nov 7, 2010)

Mostof the modern vehciles tell you to wait until the indicator tells you it is necessary. Except, they all suggest a change at 6 or 12 months, depending upon engine. My 2011 Mustang GT 5.0 has 497 miles on it and I've owned it for 6 months, but the indicator is still at 95%. I'll change it when spring arrives.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...calling Mr. *ChevyMgr*!

...is the original-fill *Dexos1*™ engine oil put in at the factory considered a "break-in" oil or is it just "standard/normal" 5W-30 synthetic-blend?


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## gunner22 (Nov 20, 2010)

I don't know about recommendations, but I have always done my first oil change at around 1000 miles, then after 2000 miles to get to the 3000 mile regular interval for the remainder of the car's life. I know this may be overkill, but it's not much $ for a little piece of mind that initial wear debris is removed from the engine. An oil change is less $ than it takes to fill up with gas now. I have never liked the oil monitors. My HHR is due for an oil change and the monitor is still at 70%. I use name brand conventional oil (Mobil or Valvoline). No experience with synthetics or blends.


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## ChevyMgr (Oct 27, 2010)

70AARCUDA said:


> ...calling Mr. *ChevyMgr*!
> 
> ...is the original-fill *Dexos1*™ engine oil put in at the factory considered a "break-in" oil or is it just "standard/normal" 5W-30 synthetic-blend?


 
Dexos1 is not a break in oil. Use your oil life monitor if you wish to. GM will stand behind the engine for 100K. I personally change mine every 5K, but I don't use synthetic or a synthetic blend.

I feel that due to the amount of engine work we now do, GM changed to Dexos1 to save money down the road. Going 12K on oil changes has brought dealers lots of engine work.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

*ChevyMgr* -- "Thanks," I asked because, in the past, engines often came with "break-in oil" installed from the factory (back when an oil change and a filter change where often "separate" activities), which I'd run until about 1,000 miles, then I'd do a complete oil & filter change to "normal" API 10W/30 (back then). The idea being to leave the "break-in" oil in the engine only long enough until the engine had achieved its break-in; then, change (and thus flush out any assembly 'residuals') to normal oil as soon as possible there after.










...never owned a turbocharged engine before and was wondering if the *Dexos™1* stuff (like the infamous *DexCool™*?) was specifically needed because of the turbo's heat?

...the *GM Tech-Link* mentions that *Dexos™1* is being phased in because of European requirements, not USA EPA or SAE.

...*Dexos™2* is for diesel engines.


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## alligatorman (Dec 28, 2010)

Dexos1 is not better than some of GM's existing specs like GM4817M (Corvette).

I just changed to Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 at 1000 mi and the factory fill oil was pretty clean with a tiny bit of sheen to it from break-in. This motor runs smooth and quiet on the Pennzoil..it is also proven to hold up well with direct injection engines that have issues with fuel contamination and carbon build-up on valves.

I suspect the motors are broken in to about 90% before they leave GM. Based on what I saw come out of the sump I would be comfortable changing the factory fill at around 40-50% of OLM reading.

These engines run hot for good mileage so go with a good synthetic oil that has low volatility (won't burn off). Dexos1 is not a requirement for warranty but *equivalent* or better such as ACEA A3/B3, VW 502.00 etc should be considered.


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## ChevyMgr (Oct 27, 2010)

alligatorman said:


> Dexos1 is not better than some of GM's existing specs like GM4817M (Corvette).
> 
> .


Dexos meets that SPEC. 2011 CamaroSS/Corvette owners can use either one per GM.


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## SilverCruzer (Nov 30, 2010)

gunner22 said:


> My HHR is due for an oil change and the monitor is still at 70%.


How do you know that? What criteria are you using?
The monitor uses two factors: engine speed and temperature, not mileage. If you expect the monitor to say you need it when you hit a mileage marker, then there would be no use for the monitor, just use the odometer.
Some of us may drive the car much harder than others so waiting until you hit 5K is not good, and others may be able to wait longer after 5K because of easier driving. That's the purpose of the monitor: base the change on when the oil needs it, not when the odometer says so. It does not make any sense to say the monitor is wrong because it still shows life after a mileage marker.


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## jaygeo1 (Nov 10, 2010)

*Dexos 1 oil info.....*

Some more info regarding the new Dexos 1 oil standard for GM.

The New GM dexos Engine Oil Specification - GM Techlink

My opinion on this subject...the first oil change being done early is OK, the factory fill is not a break-in oil and contains a leak detection dye for initial post assembly checks, as mentioned in other posts,...it's coming out of our Cruze around 3months/3,000 mi. I will be using Mobil 1 full Syn 5w/30, the same oil I've been using for years. Meets/exceeds all Dexos1 standards and should protect the little turbo just fine. From that point on, I will observe the oil service monitor % and service accordingly. I certainly won't wait till it says "0% life", but when it starts to be around 15 % or so, IMO it's time to get'er done again. This usually is around th 7-9K mile service cycle. I still _look _and _smell _and_ feel _the oil, by habit, to help determine if an earlier change is needed. Changing oil every 3 months/3000 miles _*TODAY*_ is rediculous and wasteful, even though it is the "gospel" for those carburetor equipped vehicles. Ofcourse, _always_ with a new filter. For those of you not familiar with the Eco tech's...changing the oil filter will be a_ new experience_ for you. I had a 2008 HHR with the 2.4, so I bought the special socket to remove the access cap for the filter...low cut profile and it fit the large hex size without the bulk of a normal socket or large wrench. (I hope it fits the Cruze?...haven't looked yet!). Auh well, that's my 2 cents worth on the topic*...Happy New Year to everyone!*


PS: Know anyone that seldom ( except just before turn-in) ever changed the oil/filter on their *LEASE *vehicle?


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

So where the heck is the oil filter


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## FanDamNCSU (Dec 23, 2010)

LARRY01Z28 said:


> So where the heck is the oil filter


If you're looking down on the engine its in front of and to the right of the engine block. It's not canister based so you will see a metal pipe with a black top on it with a square head on it.


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

Ok ill have to look for that. thats on the 1.4L right


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## jaygeo1 (Nov 10, 2010)

*Dexos 1 approved oils....(so far..)*

FYI, some more* Dexos 1 approved* oils information from GM:

GM dexos Licensed Products


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## cerbomark (Dec 13, 2010)

can i assume there are no grease fittings on the front end? or maybe just two on the tie rod ends?


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

Hey Jaygeo1, can you give me more info on that cap socket? Is it a GM part or something that you can get at any auto parts, or did you fabricate it yourself? Im at about 400 miles now and thinking I will do change 1 at 500 with spec conventional oil then change 2 at 1500 with Mobil 1 and continue on henceforth as the monitor indicates. I've never had a turbo engine before, so using the synthetic oil o the regular oil life monitor should ease my apprehension about relying on an algorithm to tell me when to change the oil. The longer interval between changes when using the monitor will take the bite out of the added expense for the synthetic oil, so I can justify that in my head .


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## cruzers (Dec 13, 2010)

*Oil Wrench*



TSURacing said:


> Hey Jaygeo1, can you give me more info on that cap socket? Is it a GM part or something that you can get at any auto parts, or did you fabricate it yourself? Im at about 400 miles now and thinking I will do change 1 at 500 with spec conventional oil then change 2 at 1500 with Mobil 1 and continue on henceforth as the monitor indicates. I've never had a turbo engine before, so using the synthetic oil o the regular oil life monitor should ease my apprehension about relying on an algorithm to tell me when to change the oil. The longer interval between changes when using the monitor will take the bite out of the added expense for the synthetic oil, so I can justify that in my head .



Try this link.

Fram Eco-Tec Socket Wrench | Canadian Tire


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

Thanks Cruzers! I just so happen to have a 32mm socket in my toolbox. I bought it for the trans output shaft nut on my old race bike and now I can resurrect it. How cool is that! I guess that is why you never get rid of tools, even when you think you wont need em anymore.


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## cruzers (Dec 13, 2010)

TSURacing said:


> Thanks Cruzers! I just so happen to have a 32mm socket in my toolbox. I bought it for the trans output shaft nut on my old race bike and now I can resurrect it. How cool is that! I guess that is why you never get rid of tools, even when you think you wont need em anymore.



Good luck!

Let us know how the oil change goes.


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

Ok, upon review of the information at hand I am making nice with mobil 1 and will probably be getting dirty this weekend if its not too too cold. Just to save me some trial and error, what is the best way to get at the drain plug and what size is it? Am I better lifting the right wheel, left, both? Do I have to remove the aero panel under there to get to it?

Thanks guys.


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## robertbick (Jan 1, 2011)

TSURacing said:


> Ok, upon review of the information at hand I am making nice with mobil 1 and will probably be getting dirty this weekend if its not too too cold. Just to save me some trial and error, what is the best way to get at the drain plug and what size is it? Am I better lifting the right wheel, left, both? Do I have to remove the aero panel under there to get to it?
> 
> Thanks guys.


 I would like to know how easy it is to access the oil drain also.


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## MikeW (Nov 29, 2010)

The car is low, so I could not get too far under it and to had to mostly feel around, but the panel under the engine appears to provide decent access to the drain plug. However, for me to get under the car far enough to get good leverage into the opening, it looks like I am going to have to drag out the jack stands and get both front wheels off the ground.

On my other cars, I replaced the oil drain plug crush washer every oil change. Anyone know if the Cruze has one of these?


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## robertbick (Jan 1, 2011)

I used to use jack stands... it was a PITA. Go get a set of ramps. They are cheap and make the job much easier.


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## cerbomark (Dec 13, 2010)

you ll need jack and stands or a ramp. Go straight under the front and you ll see a large U shaped cutout. There is the 10MM oil plug. Its a tiny one. And my filter canister top is a 24 MM.... Haven t done the change but took a look as I only have 1K miles.

OOo I forget to look and see if there are any grease fittings. Someone said their filter was a 32MM, but not mine.


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

Thanks Cerbomark! The link earlier in the thread is for an eco-tec 2.2 model and is 32mm. I just went out and took a look and my 1.4T is definitely closer to 24. I only used a tape measure, but I will take your word for it.
And thanks also for the tip on the drain plug!

I'm tired of candy-pantsing this thing around. I can't wait till I get my initial break-in oil change done so I can stomp on it!


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## robertbick (Jan 1, 2011)

Thanks Cerbomark!!!


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## Cruzzer (Dec 13, 2010)

cerbomark said:


> you ll need jack and stands or a ramp. Go straight under the front and you ll see a large U shaped cutout. There is the 10MM oil plug. Its a tiny one. And my filter canister top is a 24 MM.... Haven t done the change but took a look as I only have 1K miles.
> 
> 
> I would go ahead and change out the oil and filter with 1K on the clock


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## cerbomark (Dec 13, 2010)

Cruzzer said:


> cerbomark said:
> 
> 
> > you ll need jack and stands or a ramp. Go straight under the front and you ll see a large U shaped cutout. There is the 10MM oil plug. Its a tiny one. And my filter canister top is a 24 MM.... Haven t done the change but took a look as I only have 1K miles.
> ...


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## montgom626 (Jan 16, 2011)

OLM = oil life monitor. Works great, well done. Saves you a ton of money on oil and filters. Spend the money on gasoline 


GM quote 

The GM solution is for motorists to depend on its patented Oil Life System (OLS). The owner's manuals in today's GM fleet no longer make specific mileage recommendations. *Instead, the GM Oil Life System analyzes the engine's operational data including but not limited to temperature, revolutions, speed, to calculate the rate of engine oil degradation and determine when an oil is nearing the end of its life*. At this point a message on the dashboard signals that it is time to change oil.

Each OLS computer model is engine-specific because GM believes each engine behaves differently under the various driving situations and conditions. For this reason *]GM is on record as stating there can be no standard oil change interval. Both cars and driving styles vary. The OLS allegedly calculates* *all *factors pertaining to the engine and the driver and thereby makes its oil change recommendations.

GM senior project engineer Robert Stockwell has been studying analyzed oil samples from vehicles with OLS. 


End of GM quote 


As we all know, oil, filters, and metallurgy is so much better now than a decade ago. The 3 mo / 3 k oil change rule is great if you run a "quik" lube shop. 

I still struggle with using the OLM. I am so used to 3mo/3k that I struggle. 

Everyone is going to extended drain intervals. GM OLM is very conservative. 

Trust OLM. It works. Trust OLM, it works, 

Now, some of us just feel good changing oil before we need to change it. It makes us feel like we know more than the folks who built the OLM. It makes us feel like our car will last forever and ever. All we are doing is dumping good oil into the recycling drum early.

RGM

GM - Environment - News - GM Oil Life System

Tom's Corner Garage: Is GM's Oil Life Monitor (OLM) Reliable?


GM's Oil Life Monitor (OLM) — Is it reliable? - National Auto Mechanic | Examiner.com


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## Cruzzer (Dec 13, 2010)

No thanks, i'll stick to my 5K oil changes, don't believe in extended oil changes and changing oil filters every other time and never checking the oil levels like 95% of the population, and the OLM


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## Knightslugger (Jan 11, 2011)

TSURacing said:


> I just so happen to have a 32mm socket in my toolbox. I bought it for the trans output shaft nut on my old race bike...


dear lord! what bike was it?! i've never seen one with such a large nut! drag bike? road bike?

my CBR uses a 32mm for the rear axle nut, i think the output shaft was like a 14mm... you can imagine my surprise here...


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## Knightslugger (Jan 11, 2011)

MikeW said:


> On my other cars, I replaced the oil drain plug crush washer every oil change. Anyone know if the Cruze has one of these?


it does not. They use a captive urethane/rubber o-ring.


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

Knightslugger said:


> dear lord! what bike was it?! i've never seen one with such a large nut! drag bike? road bike?


It was a huge monster of a thing with so much hp that I could barely hang on. OK, thats not true, It was just a FZR600. It was the nut that captured the front sprocket, so I had to change that a few times.


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## montgom626 (Jan 16, 2011)

Cruzzer said:


> No thanks, i'll stick to my 5K oil changes, don't believe in extended oil changes and changing oil filters every other time and never checking the oil levels like 95% of the population, and the OLM


If you use OLM, it is not an extended oil change by definition. BTW, I just realized I don't know what an extended oil change interval is? I have my opinion, but means nothing of course, just an opinion. Does extended mean beyond the useful and safe life of the oil? I think it means beyond 3K? Or 5K? Or 10K?

I will go with GM OLM, since it is based upon rigorous testing. 

FWIW, 5k may not be soon enough to change your oil. Check the OLM, it may advise you to change earlier than 5k. 

RGM


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...rule-of-thumb: do the oil change when OLM reaches 20%...not too SOON, not too LATE.

...and, _insist_ that the oil used "meets" the GM *dexos 1*™ spec while the car is under warranty, and KEEP receipts proving which oil was used.


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## SR71 (Mar 6, 2011)

*1.8L Oil Pan Drain Plug*

Does anyone know what size the oil pan drain plug is on the 1.8L? I was surprised to see it requires a *Torx* fitting. The largest I have is a T40, which fit snug, but started slipping when I tried to loosen the plug.


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## jrsmith84 (Feb 26, 2011)

I'm going to use Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic every 5000-6000 miles. Mobil 1 is Dexos compatible.


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## TSURacing (Jan 1, 2011)

jrsmith84 said:


> I'm going to use Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic every 5000-6000 miles. Mobil 1 is Dexos compatible.


Changing at that interval may be overkill, depending on your driving conditions. Obviously it sure wont hurt anything to do it more often than recommended by the OLM, other than your pocketbook. Do it your way for a while and consider what the OLM is saying and then maybe come to some agreement with the computer and live happily ever after.


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## gfxdave99 (Feb 26, 2011)

TSURacing said:


> Changing at that interval may be overkill, depending on your driving conditions. Obviously it sure wont hurt anything to do it more often than recommended by the OLM, other than your pocketbook. Do it your way for a while and consider what the OLM is saying and then maybe come to some agreement with the computer and live happily ever after.


It may be overkill but even though a synthetic oil change is gonna run you 60 bucks, 60 bucks its a lot cheaper then a new engine. 

I have a 2005 subaru legacy gt that i changed to synthetic on the 1st oil change and have almost 60k on it and have had zero engine / turbo problems and have changed the oil every 6k. 

The last thing you want is to starve oil to a turbo.. it will happily self destruct post haste. 

I'm just about to hit the 500mi mark this week and I think the following weekend I'm going to go ahead and drain factory and go 5w-30 synthetic and start service log.


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## robertbick (Jan 1, 2011)

SR71 said:


> Does anyone know what size the oil pan drain plug is on the 1.8L? I was surprised to see it requires a *Torx* fitting. The largest I have is a T40, which fit snug, but started slipping when I tried to loosen the plug.


I never saw a Torx oil drain plug.  The 1.4's don't have this, do they?


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## Aeroscout977 (Nov 25, 2010)

TSURacing said:


> Changing at that interval may be overkill, depending on your driving conditions. Obviously it sure wont hurt anything to do it more often than recommended by the OLM, other than your pocketbook. Do it your way for a while and consider what the OLM is saying and then maybe come to some agreement with the computer and live happily ever after.


Most of it I'd say is piece of mind. During the Spring and Summer I go the the track and auto-x so I still keep with 3-5K mile full synthetic oil/filter changes. Also a lot of guys I'm sure learned to change their oil from their fathers. Which were going on conventional oil and methods.


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## NANABLADE (Feb 28, 2011)

I too am wondering about the first oil change....should I trust the change indicator or should I change at 1,000.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...FWIW, GM says to go by the OLM, but "new-car-angst" says dump the "first" oil at about 1,000 miles (after engine break-in) and start with fresh oil.

...GM-Opel makes the engine but GMNA covers the warranty...flip your own coin.


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## Burtess (Apr 7, 2011)

SR71 said:


> Does anyone know what size the oil pan drain plug is on the 1.8L? I was surprised to see it requires a *Torx* fitting. The largest I have is a T40, which fit snug, but started slipping when I tried to loosen the plug.


 
A little late, but I just did my first oil change on my LS and it is a T45..... why they did this I don't know...

Burt


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