# Best/Favorite Oil? Mobil 1 ESP?



## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

A lot of people like Pennzoil Euro L. I have a 5qt jug of that in the basement waiting (for the past year or two, now) to go into our CTD.


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## MOTO13 (Mar 26, 2014)

Penzoil Euro L. Walmart. $23.00.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Does pennzoil make a good diesel oil?

You won't find Penn when it comes to semis.

Delo 400 or mobile delvac I think it's called seem to be the best for semis. 

Don't know about cars.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

snowwy66 said:


> Does pennzoil make a good diesel oil?
> 
> You won't find Penn when it comes to semis.
> 
> ...


I think the Diesel for the Cruze is 5W-30 compatible with SCR (or whatever it's referred to.. ) Most diesel pickups older Dodge and Ford are running a diesel truck oil, that's not the same as the Dexos 2 Diesel requirement. The Pennzoil at Walmart is Dexos 2 approved, look for it on the bottle. 

Probably the easiest Dexos 2 oil to find locally. I remember when I first saw it and started the thread on Cruzetalk a few years ago.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

carbon02 said:


> I think the Diesel for the Cruze is 5W-30 compatible with SCR (or whatever it's referred to.. ) Most diesel pickups older Dodge and Ford are running a diesel truck oil, that's not the same as the Dexos 2 Diesel requirement. The Pennzoil at Walmart is Dexos 2 approved, look for it on the bottle.
> 
> Probably the easiest Dexos 2 oil to find locally. I remember when I first saw it and started the thread on Cruzetalk a few years ago.


Forgot about the dexos2


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

snowwy66 said:


> Does pennzoil make a good diesel oil?
> 
> You won't find Penn when it comes to semis.
> 
> ...


lol


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## resurgent cineribus (Feb 26, 2019)

It sounds like any Dexos2 approved 5W30 would be ok I'm just struggling with if its worth spending the extra $ and effort to hunt down a certain oil vs stuff that's easy to find in stores. I put on a lot of miles, typically 3000 miles in 1-1.5 months and I'm still stuck in the old school 3,000 mile interval mindset. I know intervals are much higher now normally esp with synthetics but I'm still skeptical about the intervals the manufacturers specify. I suppose with synthetics I might consider pushing it to 4,000 miles but even that will make me a little crazy. 

So from there I consider the financial impact. Lets say 9.50/quart x 6 (5.3qts) = 57 + 9 (filter) and you have a $65 oil change just in supplies. If you do this 10-12 times a year that adds up
I've traditionally been a Valvoline guy but I'm open for whatever. It would certainly be nice to find stuff in nearby stores that is frequently on sale. Put another way which would be better for our engines a 3,000-4,000 mile interval with plain oil or 5,000 with the ESP


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Brad went 100k miles on AMSOIL's 5W-30 Improved ESP European Formula. Topped off 5 quarts in that time and changed filters. Oil analysis done periodically. 

It's my favorite Dexos2 spec oil. Granted, he was deleted, but oil analysis reports have shown it good for at least 15k miles even in stock diesels. 

Really up to you if you want to save a few bucks and get a cheaper (lesser) oil or if you want the peace of mind of knowing you've got the best. The lower volatility should also extend emissions component life.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

resurgent cineribus said:


> It sounds like any Dexos2 approved 5W30 would be ok I'm just struggling with if its worth spending the extra $ and effort to hunt down a certain oil vs stuff that's easy to find in stores. I put on a lot of miles, typically 3000 miles in 1-1.5 months and I'm still stuck in the old school 3,000 mile interval mindset. I know intervals are much higher now normally esp with synthetics but I'm still skeptical about the intervals the manufacturers specify. I suppose with synthetics I might consider pushing it to 4,000 miles but even that will make me a little crazy.
> 
> So from there I consider the financial impact. Lets say 9.50/quart x 6 (5.3qts) = 57 + 9 (filter) and you have a $65 oil change just in supplies. If you do this 10-12 times a year that adds up
> I've traditionally been a Valvoline guy but I'm open for whatever. It would certainly be nice to find stuff in nearby stores that is frequently on sale. Put another way which would be better for our engines a 3,000-4,000 mile interval with plain oil or 5,000 with the ESP


What do you mean "plain oil"? You have to use Dexos2 oil in the CTD. 

In the 1st gens, the oil change interval is roughly 7500 miles, based on the OLM. Changing any oil, even conventional, every 3000 miles is a waste of money - the service manual for my '81 Z28 even recommends 5,000 miles, and that was made over 30 years ago.

The Pennzoil Euro L is like...$23-25 for 5.1 quarts. Or even spending extra for AMSOIL stuff, but being able to run it comfortably to double the factory interval would probably end up around the same cost, as well. I'm not sure what Mobil ESP costs, but I don't expect it's too much more than the Pennzoil.

Factory Dexos2 oil is fully synthetic, as well.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MP81 said:


> What do you mean "plain oil"? You have to use Dexos2 oil in the CTD.
> 
> In the 1st gens, the oil change interval is roughly 7500 miles, based on the OLM. Changing any oil, even conventional, every 3000 miles is a waste of money - the service manual for my '81 Z28 even recommends 5,000 miles, and that was made over 30 years ago.
> 
> ...


I don't want to start a highly technical thread on this here, but I just wanted to make a note. "Fully synthetic" is just a marketing term. It doesn't mean anything anymore. An oil can have 70% CHEAP group 3 (there are varying grades of group 3 base oil quality), blended with 30% group 1 or group 2 mineral oil, and they can get away with calling it "full synthetic" because the mineral oil is categorized as an additive carrier. You always need a mineral-based additive carrier. You can use a group 3 oil as an additive carrier, but you don't have to, especially if it's cheaper not to. 

Look for companies that actually explain that they're using 100% synthetic base oil, even if it's 100% group 3. Motul, AMSOIL, and a handful of others make oils at that quality level.


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## resurgent cineribus (Feb 26, 2019)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Brad went 100k miles on AMSOIL's 5W-30 Improved ESP European Formula. Topped off 5 quarts in that time and changed filters. Oil analysis done periodically.
> 
> It's my favorite Dexos2 spec oil. Granted, he was deleted, but oil analysis reports have shown it good for at least 15k miles even in stock diesels.
> 
> Really up to you if you want to save a few bucks and get a cheaper (lesser) oil or if you want the peace of mind of knowing you've got the best. The lower volatility should also extend emissions component life.



https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp

Sorry I was referring specifically to the ESP formulated stuff vs any other Dexos2 synthetic 5W30. I'm paying extra attention to anything emissions related with this car since I know its complex and expensive to fix. Yes you can color me skeptical/superstitious about these extended OCI. It's anecdotal sure, but I've driven some cars well past the point where most others vanish from the road. Can I prove 100% beyond a doubt mythbusters style that the manufacturers recommendation would have given me the same results; no not really. Same can be said of the "fill for life" automatic transmissions which are open to interpretation depending on how long you think "life" is. I tend to drive my cars 20-30k a year and keep them 10-15 years. Some of these are also the cars that originally came with 5 digit odometers, 12k warranties, and maybe 5 years until they rust out if you're lucky. 

My 05 escape is sitting in the driveway right now with 282k on the original engine and trans with no major engine or trans issues (only parked due to rust damage issues) Is there no chance frequent fluid changes played a key role in it still running and driving like a top? I've actually had a few oil analysis tests done the past year or two (don't have the results right here but they were very impressive for wear) That oil change cost me about $25 to do and maybe 20-30 mins of time which seemed like a reasonable investment (good to get under the car anyway to look for other issues). My opinion might change if this was a lease and I was tossing the keys back in 24-36 months. Sure it might be overkill but it is also cheap insurance and has served me well with every car I've owned (mostly older ones with plenty of small issues but never a major engine problem. It isn't just about how long the oil "lasts" per se but also how much junk is mixed in that oil and relying on the filter to catch all of it before replacing. 

I guess the crux of my question was if the special emissions blend is improved enough to justify being basically twice as much. There are plenty of reputable Dexos 2 full synthetics I can pick up for $25-30 for a 5 qt jug (and often on sale for less) The ESP formula is twice that and generally has to be ordered (possibly shipping as well) Put another way given a finite amount of $$ for oil changes I could afford afford to do changes more frequently with the former. Is anyone else guilty of "overmaintaining" when it comes to fluid changes?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

resurgent cineribus said:


> https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp
> 
> Sorry I was referring specifically to the ESP formulated stuff vs any other Dexos2 synthetic 5W30. I'm paying extra attention to anything emissions related with this car since I know its complex and expensive to fix. Yes you can color me skeptical/superstitious about these extended OCI. It's anecdotal sure, but I've driven some cars well past the point where most others vanish from the road. Can I prove 100% beyond a doubt mythbusters style that the manufacturers recommendation would have given me the same results; no not really. Same can be said of the "fill for life" automatic transmissions which are open to interpretation depending on how long you think "life" is. I tend to drive my cars 20-30k a year and keep them 10-15 years. Some of these are also the cars that originally came with 5 digit odometers, 12k warranties, and maybe 5 years until they rust out if you're lucky.
> 
> ...


I know what you were referring to; I could tell by the section of the forum it was in. I'm very familiar with oil specifications and what the differences are; it's in my job description. 

Your ability to maintain vehicles long-term has nothing to do with your OCIs. Some oils are designed to go longer, some are not; it's really that simple. Proper maintenance _at the oil's capabilities_ is what allows you to operate an engine reliably, but I will repeat that volatility of the oil will have an effect on emissions component life long-term. If you don't plan on keeping this beyond the warranty period, use whatever you want. I've seen one too many coked up DPFs because people didn't understand the principles behind NOACK volatility and used the cheapest stuff available to them. 

I absolutely "overmaintain." I use oil of far higher quality than the OEM recommends and drive my vehicles far harder than they were intended to be driven. My Cruze 1.4T has a GTX turbo bolted to it, runs on an e40-e60 ethanol blend, tows my 6x10 utility trailer and my 14' boat frequently, and has an 8,000 RPM redline. My last oil change was at 12,500 miles, and the analysis sent in at 10,219 miles recommended another 3,500 miles before re-testing. Disclaimer: that was before the GTX turbo/e85 sensor went in, but was while I was BNR tuned the entire time. 

I'm so confident in this oil's capabilities that I just spent $400 on oils, filters, analysis kits, and analysis pumps for 4 of my friends to perform case studies showing the capabilities of the extended service intervals, with oil analysis done by Polaris Labs every 3,500 miles. These are enthusiasts that own sports cars, some turbocharged and some high-revving, that I asked to drive in the same conditions they did before the case study began. I'll be out an easy $1500 across all 4 cars on the cost of oil analysis kits, oil, and filters. You don't spend that kind of money out of your own pocket unless you know for a fact the results will be in your favor. 

I don't formally recommend extending service intervals on AMSOIL's 5W-30 Classic ESP European formula as I won't expose myself to that kind of advertising liability, but I will state that others in this forum have attempted those intervals and the oil analysis reports looked excellent.

I've seen one too many oil analysis reports of Mobil 1's products oxidizing too fast, shearing too fast, or otherwise failing to protect in severe conditions to be able to recommend them. Pennzoil Euro L would be a better option in my experience. I've lost all faith in Mobil 1 products, which is sad because I used to use them many years ago.


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## resurgent cineribus (Feb 26, 2019)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I know what you were referring to; I could tell by the section of the forum it was in. I'm very familiar with oil specifications and what the differences are; it's in my job description.
> 
> Your ability to maintain vehicles long-term has nothing to do with your OCIs. Some oils are designed to go longer, some are not; it's really that simple. Proper maintenance _at the oil's capabilities_ is what allows you to operate an engine reliably, but I will repeat that volatility of the oil will have an effect on emissions component life long-term. If you don't plan on keeping this beyond the warranty period, use whatever you want. I've seen one too many coked up DPFs because people didn't understand the principles behind NOACK volatility and used the cheapest stuff available to them.
> 
> ...


Thank you,

I don't profess to be an expert on engine oil types/quality so that's kind of what I'm looking for. It looks like yours is a ringing (albeit unofficial) endorsement of the Amsoil European car stuff I just saw on their site. At $14 a quart its rather pricey but I'd be willing to consider it if it is really that good and I extended my interval a bit (from what I'm used to at least) and the Pennzoil would be a decent budget alternative. Long ago I had heard bad things about Pennzoil so I just kind of avoided it but of course thats long ago and anecdotal and may not reflect this product. I've had good luck with the Valvoline maxlife synthetic blend 5w20 in my aging cars that I was afraid to introduce full synthetic to. My Cruze only has 19-20k currently so switching up isn't a big issue (not sure what the previous owner used but I'm sure I could find out)

From my limited understanding it could be a little like oil filters. The moderately cheap ones are typically fine if you run an low OCI but if you go the distance between changes you should invest more for one that can hold more junk and filter better. Would it be fair to say that hypothetical oil "A" at $6 per quart could provide good protection for 4,000 miles while oil "B" might provide good protection for 10,000 miles but at $14/quart?. What do you think about any Valvoline or Castrol products? those are usually my go-to. 

Ok one of my little dark secrets I actually enjoy changing oil (except maybe in the dead of winter); it gets me out of the house and gives me an easy excuse to pick up a wrench lol. Those long life oils may be fine for the car but what about my sanity


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

resurgent cineribus said:


> Thank you,
> 
> I don't profess to be an expert on engine oil types/quality so that's kind of what I'm looking for. It looks like yours is a ringing (albeit unofficial) endorsement of the Amsoil European car stuff I just saw on their site. At $14 a quart its rather pricey but I'd be willing to consider it if it is really that good and I extended my interval a bit (from what I'm used to at least) and the Pennzoil would be a decent budget alternative. Long ago I had heard bad things about Pennzoil so I just kind of avoided it but of course thats long ago and anecdotal and may not reflect this product. I've had good luck with the Valvoline maxlife synthetic blend 5w20 in my aging cars that I was afraid to introduce full synthetic to. My Cruze only has 19-20k currently so switching up isn't a big issue (not sure what the previous owner used but I'm sure I could find out)
> 
> ...


I am an AMSOIL dealer, but I became a dealer only after using the products. It was actually AMSOIL Synchromesh, and its performance in my Cruze's manual transmission, that caused me to become a dealer. It worked so well that I decided to become a dealer to offer it to the community at a good price. One thing led to another and now I sell over $120k a year of the stuff. 

Pennzoil made some good improvements by making a good quality group 3 base oil using their GTL (gas to liquid) "Pure Plus" technology affordable. They'll spin it every which way with marketing but ultimately the end result is an oil that is more stable and requires fewer viscosity index additives/modifiers to achieve a certain level of performance. It still has the same drawbacks of other group 3 oils, but is better, in my mind, than the likes of Mobil 1. The volatility specs seem to agree with me. 

I don't have a very good impression of Castrol products, and of the majors, I consider Valvoline to be one of the better ones. If I had to choose between something store-bought, it would currently be Pennzoil Platinum or Valvoline SynPower. It spoke volumes that even valvoline's conventional oil maintained viscosity better than Mobil 1 Annual Protection in the recent test results AMSOIL released. 

As for your sanity, I'd recommend going fishing in the time you save changing oil, or start a woodworking hobby.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

I look at the overall effects.

How does engine sound. How fast can it cool down. Does it maintain the best fuel economy. What's the gas dilution. Does it clean the engine.

I used a brand once. Took a 300 mile trip. Engine ran hot causing lower oil pressure. I had the oil changed when I arrived. It looked like lumpy water.

Penn has always been my brand. But this synthetic seems to lower my economy at the 4k mark. We're trying amz now.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I've seen one too many oil analysis reports of Mobil 1's products oxidizing too fast, shearing too fast, or otherwise failing to protect in severe conditions to be able to recommend them. Pennzoil Euro L would be a better option in my experience. I've lost all faith in Mobil 1 products, which is sad because I used to use them many years ago.


I run Mobil 1 in my Cobalt, _hard_, for 9-11k miles (which generally means it goes years between oil changes, as I don't drive it frequently enough), and have been for the past ~95,000 miles (~85,000 of which have have been with over double the factory power) and not had an issue. *Shrug*


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

resurgent cineribus said:


> https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp
> 
> Sorry I was referring specifically to the ESP formulated stuff vs any other Dexos2 synthetic 5W30. I'm paying extra attention to anything emissions related with this car since I know its complex and expensive to fix. Yes you can color me skeptical/superstitious about these extended OCI. It's anecdotal sure, but I've driven some cars well past the point where most others vanish from the road. Can I prove 100% beyond a doubt mythbusters style that the manufacturers recommendation would have given me the same results; no not really. Same can be said of the "fill for life" automatic transmissions which are open to interpretation depending on how long you think "life" is. I tend to drive my cars 20-30k a year and keep them 10-15 years. Some of these are also the cars that originally came with 5 digit odometers, 12k warranties, and maybe 5 years until they rust out if you're lucky.
> 
> ...


You are not doing anything wrong, change at whatever frequency you desire, just make sure it is Dexos 2 and or meets and exceeds the spec GM has designated for this diesel engine, if you do not adhere to the proper spec oil, this car WILL be a nightmare to own. This engine with the emissions attached to it is VERY dependent upon putting the proper oil in it. There are members here that had the wrong oil put in by a dealer or overfilled the oil with correct or incorrect oil and their experiences are a nightmare. When I owned my CTD, I had to watch the dealer put the right oil in for peace of mind. I had very minimal and normal issues, but no real issues.

For the record, I used Pennzoil Euro oil and the Dealer used Mobil One and it wasn't the ESP, was another name, I found the Pennzoil to be where I could purchase at Walmart, I think Amsoil is great oil but if you are not doing extended drains I don't think that is the best option for you due to cost and having to order it, etc. Your not likely to do extended drains so just pick your choice of Dexos 2 oil. Hope that helps


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## resurgent cineribus (Feb 26, 2019)

IndyDiesel said:


> You are not doing anything wrong, change at whatever frequency you desire, just make sure it is Dexos 2 and or meets and exceeds the spec GM has designated for this diesel engine, if you do not adhere to the proper spec oil, this car WILL be a nightmare to own. This engine with the emissions attached to it is VERY dependent upon putting the proper oil in it. There are members here that had the wrong oil put in by a dealer or overfilled the oil with correct or incorrect oil and their experiences are a nightmare. When I owned my CTD, I had to watch the dealer put the right oil in for peace of mind. I had very minimal and normal issues, but no real issues.
> 
> For the record, I used Pennzoil Euro oil and the Dealer used Mobil One and it wasn't the ESP, was another name, I found the Pennzoil to be where I could purchase at Walmart, I think Amsoil is great oil but if you are not doing extended drains I don't think that is the best option for you due to cost and having to order it, etc. Your not likely to do extended drains so just pick your choice of Dexos 2 oil. Hope that helps


Thanks,

Yes even before this car I've always been wary of oil change places. One of the only times I had mine done on another car (probably because there was a foot of snow on the ground and I was in an apartment IIRC) they managed to cross thread my drain plug. Unless I really trust the exact person doing it I will always do my own. I'm sure I'm throwing the baby out with the bathwater with the generalization and there are probably many good places but I'd rather not risk it. Those places have to turn out oil changes all day in a hurry; I do mine when I have time to check and double check everything. 

Oil selection aside of course oil changes are car maintenance 101 and I haven't seen anything too complicated about them on these cars but I will look extra closely at the level


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MP81 said:


> I run Mobil 1 in my Cobalt, _hard_, for 9-11k miles (which generally means it goes years between oil changes, as I don't drive it frequently enough), and have been for the past ~95,000 miles (~85,000 of which have have been with over double the factory power) and not had an issue. *Shrug*


With how bad the recent formulations have become, good luck. You're going to need it. 

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

resurgent cineribus said:


> It sounds like any Dexos2 approved 5W30 would be ok I'm just struggling with if its worth spending the extra $ and effort to hunt down a certain oil vs stuff that's easy to find in stores. I put on a lot of miles, typically 3000 miles in 1-1.5 months and I'm still stuck in the old school 3,000 mile interval mindset. I know intervals are much higher now normally esp with synthetics but I'm still skeptical about the intervals the manufacturers specify. I suppose with synthetics I might consider pushing it to 4,000 miles but even that will make me a little crazy.
> 
> So from there I consider the financial impact. Lets say 9.50/quart x 6 (5.3qts) = 57 + 9 (filter) and you have a $65 oil change just in supplies. If you do this 10-12 times a year that adds up
> I've traditionally been a Valvoline guy but I'm open for whatever. It would certainly be nice to find stuff in nearby stores that is frequently on sale. Put another way which would be better for our engines a 3,000-4,000 mile interval with plain oil or 5,000 with the ESP /forum/images/smilies/confused.png


I wouldn't run plain oil. 

Run any Dexos2 from Walmart/AutoZone/O'Reilly's/Menards/Canadian Tire....Whatever your choice is for cheap oil prices. It should be less than $5/at virtually all year in 5qt jugs. Run it at 3k if you really want. But 5k would be fine. And still be "over maintaining" by new standards.

Or pick the "best" oil for you that's got API SN, ACEA C3 and Dexos2 certs. You should also be looking for BMW LL04 and Mercedes 229.51. anything you find with all those and you can't go wrong or run afoul of warranty.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> With how bad the recent formulations have become, good luck. You're going to need it.


Meh, it'll probably be fine.

And if it finally decides to spin a rod, then I have my reason to rebuild it and go forged.

How "recent"? The oil is years old at this point, just been in my basement, all nice and comfortable.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

mp81 said:


> how "recent"? The oil is years old at this point, just been in my basement, all nice and comfortable.


lol.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

MP81 said:


> Meh, it'll probably be fine.
> 
> And if it finally decides to spin a rod, then I have my reason to rebuild it and go forged.
> 
> How "recent"? The oil is years old at this point, just been in my basement, all nice and comfortable.


Last 2-3 years.


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## steveg241 (Jul 18, 2013)

resurgent cineribus said:


> https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-esp
> I guess the crux of my question was if the special emissions blend is improved enough to justify being basically twice as much. There are plenty of reputable Dexos 2 full synthetics I can pick up for $25-30 for a 5 qt jug (and often on sale for less) The ESP formula is twice that and generally has to be ordered (possibly shipping as well) Put another way given a finite amount of $$ for oil changes I could afford afford to do changes more frequently with the former. Is anyone else guilty of "overmaintaining" when it comes to fluid changes?


Just run the Pennzoil Platinum Euro L which is Dexos2 approved and call it a day. I've used the Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 and it's a great oil, but the Pennzoil is good enough to go 7500 miles so why spend the extra money? 

If you do highway driving and change every 3k miles, you are just throwing away money. The Mobil 1 ESP had plenty of life left after 7500 miles doing a UOA. After I get to 7500 miles on the Pennzoil oil I will get it tested and I fully expect it to still have life left.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Last 2-3 years.


So yeah, mine is definitely older than that. My last oil change in that car was August of 2016, and I've only put on just over 3,000 miles on it since then. I had bought the oil well prior to that, likewise with the unopened jug I have down there still.


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## Cruz15 (Mar 17, 2016)

resurgent cineribus said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> 
> I've been trying to pick out the best oil to use on my '18 Diesel. This will be my first car using full synthetic and I'd like to pick one and stick with it.
> ...


Motul 8100 X-clean EFE, BMW LL-04, Dexos 2 and MB 229.52.
Best oil I have ever used. The second OCI made a very big difference in engine sound and feeling.


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I know what you were referring to; I could tell by the section of the forum it was in. I'm very familiar with oil specifications and what the differences are; it's in my job description.
> 
> Your ability to maintain vehicles long-term has nothing to do with your OCIs. Some oils are designed to go longer, some are not; it's really that simple. Proper maintenance _at the oil's capabilities_ is what allows you to operate an engine reliably, but I will repeat that volatility of the oil will have an effect on emissions component life long-term. If you don't plan on keeping this beyond the warranty period, use whatever you want. I've seen one too many coked up DPFs because people didn't understand the principles behind NOACK volatility and used the cheapest stuff available to them.
> 
> ...


Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 has one of,if not the lowest noack available.In addition it has one of the highest flash points.While Amsoil makes a good product your bashing Mobil sounds sales pitchy.Show us a UOA of ESP 5w-30 oxidizing and shearing and i'll believe you.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

oreo382 said:


> Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 has one of,if not the lowest noack available.In addition it has one of the highest flash points.While Amsoil makes a good product your bashing Mobil sounds sales pitchy.Show us a UOA of ESP 5w-30 oxidizing and shearing and i'll believe you.


Flash point is irrelevant. It has absolutely no correlation with performance. 

Feel free to post the NOACK volatility of Mobil 1. My guess is it will meet the MB 229.51 spec at 10% like most other Mobil 1 oils. 

I recommend against products or brands I see perform very poorly. It's that simple. Pennzoil makes a better euro spec oil. Is that "sales pitchy" too? I also recommend Motul and Schaeffer, and in some cases LE. Where's my commission check from those companies? 

Quit trying to make assumptions on my motives. I don't trust Mobil 1 and at this rate never will. My distrust is based entirely on actual ASTM standardized test results. 

Brad went 100k miles on AMSOIL's euro spec. I can confidently recommend it to everyone. 

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

I tried that dealer oil change. What do they use?

It lasted 100 miles. Didn't like what it was doing.

As a retired mechanic who pays attention to the little details oils do.

Penn and Amzoil.


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Flash point is irrelevant. It has absolutely no correlation with performance.
> 
> Feel free to post the NOACK volatility of Mobil 1. My guess is it will meet the MB 229.51 spec at 10% like most other Mobil 1 oils.
> 
> ...


Data from a Russian oil website ( Oil-Club) on ESP Formula 5w-30,look it up.


easily passes - can be called 5W-30
2) Viscosity at 10 ° C = 11.94 cSt - typical indicator for oils 5w30 C3
3) Low viscosity index = 164 - speaks of PAO-based base oil
4) Alkaline number = 6.46 - typical indicator for oils with a tolerance of 504/507
5) Acid number = 2.22 - tall for a low-ash.
6) Ash content = 0.68% - more than fit into C3 requirements and approvals, which require
7) Pour point = -46С - indicates that we have real synthetics
8) Very high t flash = 250С - indicates good thermal stability of this product and hints at PAO loudly
9) Cold scrolling imitation viscosity (CCS) at -30С = 5033 mPas - overlaps with the SAE requirement
10) Evaporation NOACK = 5.6% - not has analogs among its own peers and echoes well with t flares
11) Protective package based on ZDDP (moreover, the amount of Phosphorus and Zinc at the level of full salt) + organic Molybdenum (reduces friction and saves fuel in parallel) + possibly Bohr compounds 
12) Washing package based on salicylates Calcium + succin imide boron, due to which TBN is kept at a sufficient level despite the low calcium content
13) The oxidation parameter tells us that there are esters in the oil as a basic component

*Conclusion:* we have almost the best ACEA C3 oil and one of the best in general. The oil is made on the basis of Hydrocracking + PAO + Estera with modern rich elements of a multifunctional additive package. It has excellent low-temperature, protective and detergent characteristics. There is little ash and sulfur in it. For cars with modern multi-level catalysts and particulate filters - one of the best candidates for the fill. On working off, this oil consistently shows low wear. But there is a small nuance: an alkaline number sets in fairly quickly, which in no way detracts from the other advantages of this product, but serves as a formal reason for an earlier replacement. (*Dimmy*)


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

oreo382 said:


> Data from a Russian oil website ( Oil-Club) on ESP Formula 5w-30,look it up.
> 
> 
> easily passes - can be called 5W-30
> ...


Oh here we go. Old data from some Russian website. You do realize formulation changes based on region right? The Russian data was posted in 2013. 6 year old data. 

The rest of the parameters don't demonstrate anything. I made the same mistakes you're making years ago trying to extrapolate performance information from limited data sheets and MSDS. 

At the end of the day, what matters most is what an oil does and how it performs. I'll pass on Mobil 1. 

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Unrelated, but it sounds like GM jacked the price up of their Dexos2 oil substantially - the oil change that cost us $50 in January is costing $99 today.

Looks like next change it'll be finally getting the EuroL I have in the basement. Thinking maybe a longer interval due to better quality oil, as well? 10k instead of 7.5k, perhaps?


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

MP81 said:


> Unrelated, but it sounds like GM jacked the price up of their Dexos2 oil substantially - the oil change that cost us $50 in January is costing $99 today.


I don't know about a price increase but I can confirm the first oil change I paid for (in Olympia, WA) was $96 and then they told me it would be another $27 for a tire rotation. 

The Dexos1 oil change on their wall (with tire rotation) was listed as $49.95. They could give no really good explanation for the price difference other than the oil and filter are more expensive. The oil was listed as over $8 a quart and then the oil filter was over $17!

I scored some K&N oil filters for $5 each and Pennzoil Euro L for $22 a jug (5 quarts). I'll see if I can work out a deal with the dealership to throw them $30 for labor if they can do the oil change and rotate the tires.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yeah, who knows - the dealer said they were losing $30 on the oil change at $50 after the supposed price increase.

Either way, the Euro L should technically be somewhat better oil, and if it means I can stretch the intervals out, it'll mean that much more savings over time.


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