# Fumoto valve



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

What and risk hitting a curb with that practically next to zero ground clearance and breaking it off? No thanks.

My kids came home with stripped drain plugs from these oil changing places. How to do manage that? Tried that with an old pan. Only way I could do that was to use a 560 ft lb impact wrench and drive the drain plug in at an angle.

Any kind of valve can leak, rare for a drain plug to do that. Since they all but eliminated drain plugs from everything else, can only wonder when they will eliminate the oil drain plug.


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

I wouldn't put a Fumoto Valve on 1.4 because the drain plug is pointing down. Now if it was up on the back side of the oil pan where it wouldn't get any hits like on my 02 silverado that would be just fine.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

BlueTopaz said:


> I wouldn't put a Fumoto Valve on 1.4 because the drain plug is pointing down. Now if it was up on the back side of the oil pan where it wouldn't get any hits like on my 02 silverado that would be just fine.


Agreed. 

My recommendation for a less-messy oil change is a MityVac 7201. It gets out all of the oil, and does not need the drain plug to be touched at all. I've done all my oil changes so far with mine, and it's worked very well for that purpose.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Sunline Fan said:


> I posted this in the 1.4 forum but I think it was too hard to find and didn't get seen.
> 
> I just rolled over 3000 miles today (currently at 3024) and now both my Amsoil and AC Delco filters from Rock Auto have arrived. I was thinking about putting a Fumoto valve on the car when I do the change, but I don't know if I need the reducer piece or not. Has anyone put one in here to know whether it's needed or not? I searched and had no luck finding a thread that didn't just ask the same question I am with no answer still.
> 
> ...


A word of advice since this sounds like your first oil change on this car - pull the oil dipstick loose or crack the cap open BEFORE removing the drain plug. Keeps it from "burping" and splashing everywhere.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> A word of advice since this sounds like your first oil change on this car - pull the oil dipstick loose or crack the cap open BEFORE removing the drain plug. Keeps it from "burping" and splashing everywhere.


+1 
Do both the cap and the dip stick.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Ah, thanks guys! I ended up changing it today, but this was posted just a couple hours too late... I did make a little bit of a mess, but it wasn't bad. I actually pulled the plug and then pulled the cap off when I stood up, so it just splattered early on.

After actually getting under the car and seeing the design, I've decided no Fumoto. I've always wanted to get one for the Excursion, but with the pending engine swap, I just haven't. When I first looked at the oil change pics on here, it looked like the 1.4's plug was on the side somehow, but that definitely isn't the case. If I actually had a splash shield left, I might consider it more since something would protect it, but it's in clear view now. The hack job is just sickening too, they should have just removed the whole panel and not cut it. I mean, why are the remnants even there still? The car would have to basically be standing on end in order to get a slight splash on what's left now.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Cruze maintenance day! 3038 miles.

I have my grandpa's ramps, but unfortunately they aren't here, so I had to use the floor jacks. I'll probably go get them and use them next time though, if the bumper will clear them. I jacked up each side from the jacking points and put a jack stand (just for safety) under the front cross member while I was working under there.










As mentioned, it did splatter a little, but it wasn't bad. I let the jacks down after I pulled the plug to ensure it was level to drain. I'm just sickened at how the shield was hacked up- there's basically nothing left of it. On the other hand though, it made it easy to get to the plug.










The factory oil/filter really wasn't all that dirty, and I didn't see any metal shavings to speak of. So I'd say that's a good thing, it had a good 3000 mile break in.



















I lube all o-rings with white lithium grease now. After suffering from a leaky oil filter a couple years ago due to lubing the ring with just Amsoil, I learned it doesn't work well for lubing rubber. I asked an Amsoil dealer I know and he recommended using WL grease instead. 










Filter cap and a little coating on the drain plug as well:










This could be a better design, but I bet I'm preaching to the choir here.










How much I pulled out in the gallon jug. I put 4.25 in though to take it to full.










I also did a tire rotation, fronts to the rear and rears crossed to the front. While I was at it, I cleaned the wheels front and rear:



















All done!










No time for a car wash today as I was running out of daylight. That will probably be tomorrow.


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## Starks8 (Jul 20, 2011)

Awesome work all around man! Cruze looks good and is now ready for another 3,000 miles.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

02 Cavalier has the drain plug mounted on the rear side of the pan. Have to lie under that car and pull my drain pan forward as the pressure decreases. Just center my drain pan under the Cruze and let it go. Go back into the house and take a nap.

When I loosen the drain plug, turns freely after cracking it free with a wrench, use a six point socket for that. I hole upward pressure on it till the last thread. Only get a dab of oil on my thumb and index finger, but take a paper towel with me to wipe that off.

Have no choice but to pump the oil out of my Volvo I/O with a 350 Chevy block, can't even slide a drain pan under there. But then I make a pan out of aluminum foil about an inch high and remove the drain plug, didn't know I can still bend that way. There you really find the dirty oil, also waste about a pint of new oil to flush that out. Do the same thing with all of my vehicles.

Worse thing is draining a differential or an AT, if I cover the floor with plastic first, don't spill a drop. If I don't, fluid goes everywhere. On my 454 motorhome where I like to change the AT fluid more frequently, found a deeper pan with a drain plug. Makes life so much easier, and drilled and tapped a hole in the differential.

They claim they omitted the drain plugs on an AT because they want to make sure you change the filter. Dumbest thing I have ever heard of. Main reason is too have more money for the stockholders, they don't lower the price of any vehicle by omitting key service items.

After warranty, also drill and tap holes in particular in the ball joints adding a zerk fitting. Sure last a lot longer with some fresh grease in there.

I am at a lost as what to do with hub bearing, claim for these overpriced pieces of throwaway crap is that mechanics do not know how to adjust tapered bearings. Another extremely expensive to replace throwaway part.

In particular at around 70K miles, pull all those limited lubricated ball bearing in on these crazy single belt drive train. Pop off the seals and find very little dried grease left. Clean those thoroughly, check the races and balls for pits, if any, bearing is history. Also for radial and axial play, fill with Wolf's high temperature read bearing grease, pop on the seals and reassemble. After this good for another well over 100K. 

With new bearings, a chase to find Made in the USA or at least Japanese bearings. always clean those first, if using plastic retainers, they go back, I know how to pop off a seal without the CIA knowing about it. Best bearings have riveted steel retainers. Second best is spot welded. With the proper grease, had bearings last over 300K miles.

If any of those bearings seize, will break that single drivebelt and leave you stranded. Don't even think about making the next turnoff, your cylinder head will crack even if your temperature gauge does show normal. Your battery light will come on as the first sign of problems, plus you will hear a loud squeal then a pop. Least the Cavalier had a timing chain driven water pump, Cruze 1.4 went back to a belt driven pump. Worse bearing is in the AC idler pulley, always need a special puller/installer for that. Basterds at GM just can't use the same one, so far, I have four different ones.

New upper strut bearings were never greased for the Cavalier, old ones after 36K miles had rusty balls. Not only that, but those tin races were never hardened. Talk about one very angry guy when I found this. Read posts that our Cruzes may be the same. With proper lubricant and did test the new races for hardening, been trouble free for over 80K miles. Still not expecting any problems in this area.

Yet another is the blower motor, can't even drive these vehicles safely with out them. At first used screws, super easy to replace the bushings and brushes. Then the screws were replaced with spot welds, those could be drilled out and replaced with screw metal screws. Then they hot stamped the blower wheel on with no way to remove it, no choice now but to get a second mortgage on your home to buy a new one.

Lastly, each oil change requires you or your dealer to spray all those suspension neoprene busings with silicone. Otherwise they will rust and rip that rubber apart. Does your dealer to this? Bet not, I do.

In terms of proper lubrication, a lot more to do than just change the oil. Why is your engine shield all butchered up? Mine isn't, just has an extra 1 1/4" hole drilled in it for one spot they forgot. Got this approved from GM. Dumbest recall I have ever heard about, and won't do a **** thing for you if you cannot install a new filter properly. Will stay spray oil on the turbo.

Could have mounted the turbo at the rear where it belongs and use a slightly larger diameter intercooler pipe. Or mounted the filter in the rear away from all that hot stuff.

And why are these paper only filter cartridges a lot more expensive than the spin on type? Manual lies like crazy when they say, cheaper and better for the environment!


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Lots of interesting points there, Nick.

My shield came like that already. I suspect the dealer that had it that it was traded from did the job, as the dealer I bought it from didn't have it long enough to do that much to it. That other dealer also installed wheel locks. I'm not happy about it like that though because I think it is severely hurting my fuel economy. Granted the car is still quite new, but the road trips I've taken it on so far haven't even achieved the sticker number. And that's getting gas right before I get on the highway and when I get off, and staying under the speed limit. I'm not surprised that place hacked it up like that though, because my little experience of trying to get more info from them on the car and stories I heard from the dealer I bought it from indicate they aren't at all the best dealer around. I just really don't want to drop a hundred and some bucks to buy a replacement shield, and I think the chances of finding a non-hacked one in a junkyard is slim at this point.

I too noticed yesterday that the steering joints didn't have grease fittings. Cheap. Excursion is the same way- the factory ball joints didn't come with grease fittings and are supposed to be lifetime. I had one replaced already at about 45k. Fortunately, the legit aftermarket ones (Moog) have upper and lower grease zerks already there. Now these should outlast the truck.

I know what you mean about bearings. I replaced the bearing assembly in my other Excursion. They are such that the bearings are sealed and not serviceable, so you have to buy the entire bearing/hub/wheel studs assembly when they wear out every 100k. My grandpa couldn't believe it wasn't serviceable and completely disassembled it/cut it apart (he was a metallurgist at Ford for about 20 years) and concluded yes, you can't take it apart without destroying the casing. Went to Autozone, I could get a supposed USA made Timken for about $250, or I could get an assumed non-USA made Duralast brand for about $150. Knowing I was going to be selling the truck soon, I opted for the Duralast. I also opted for the Duralast because I had talked to someone who worked at another Autozone and said he sees Timkens returned all the time. Indeed they used to make bearings stateside, but in recent times they moved production overseas and quality has gone downhill. So one could pay a premium price and receive something of worse quality than the cheaper alternative.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Sunline Fan said:


> That other dealer also installed wheel locks.


Do you mean those keyed lug nuts? Got those on my 88 Supra when new until I learned I could buy that lug nut key anywhere.

Dealer said he would cut my shield, and if I wasn't happy with it, would replace it with a new one. Never got that far. Maybe your dealer will do the same for you, never hurts to ask, but his answer may hurt.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Sunline Fan said:


> Lots of interesting points there, Nick.
> 
> My shield came like that already. I suspect the dealer that had it that it was traded from did the job, as the dealer I bought it from didn't have it long enough to do that much to it. That other dealer also installed wheel locks. I'm not happy about it like that though because I think it is severely hurting my fuel economy. Granted the car is still quite new, but the road trips I've taken it on so far haven't even achieved the sticker number. And that's getting gas right before I get on the highway and when I get off, and staying under the speed limit. I'm not surprised that place hacked it up like that though, because my little experience of trying to get more info from them on the car and stories I heard from the dealer I bought it from indicate they aren't at all the best dealer around. I just really don't want to drop a hundred and some bucks to buy a replacement shield, and I think the chances of finding a non-hacked one in a junkyard is slim at this point.


I have kept track of my MPG since day one, had about three months of data before I had the shield cut, there was no significant difference in the MPG afterward. 

I see your from Michigan, isn't there interstates 70MPH? That is well above the EPA test average speed, to get 38mpg gotta do 55-65mph. On 45mph roads can exceed the window sticker easily.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

I was averaging 39.6 with my 2012 2LT, 1.4L in Wisconsin, kind of combined city and highway driving. Interstates, set the cruise at 70 mph, have to, or will get ran over. Only use Mobil top tier 91 Octane ethanol free gas.

But that dropped to more like 35 mpg with this winterized stuff. Population of my town is 19,000. Not the largest.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

NickD said:


> I was averaging 39.6 with my 2012 2LT, 1.4L in Wisconsin, kind of combined city and highway driving.


NickD, he has an LTZ so he has an automatic like me, combined MPG is much lower as is the speed at which you get optimal MPG. As stated to get window sticker MPG with the automatic gotta drive in the 45-65mph range.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

NickD said:


> What and risk hitting a curb with that practically next to zero ground clearance and breaking it off? No thanks.
> 
> My kids came home with stripped drain plugs from these oil changing places. How to do manage that? Tried that with an old pan. Only way I could do that was to use a 560 ft lb impact wrench and drive the drain plug in at an angle.
> 
> Any kind of valve can leak, rare for a drain plug to do that. Since they all but eliminated drain plugs from everything else, can only wonder when they will eliminate the oil drain plug.


I bought a quick oil release valve from Advance Auto Parts(not installed yet) and have been thinking about returning for the reasons you mentioned. The one I bought is from Dorman and you push up and turn to release and I am concerned about it leaking my oil out after hitting something or just due to poor design and ruining my engine. Here a link to it. Besides the threads look too small for my oil pan and it is "too deep" compared to the one currently in the pan(don't know this matters).
  







Quick View 

*Dorman - Autograde EZ Drain Oil Drain Plug M14-1.50*

I bought it since I am tired of the Torx fitting drain plug but as often as I change my oil (every 5000 miles) what is the big deal! Friday when I changed, I used a T40 but it seemed loose and the T45 is too big. Probably return the quick change valve tomorrow, 

But I have been considering replacing the Torx with a regular drain plug, but don't think about buying till after I am done!


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

NickD said:


> I was averaging 39.6 with my 2012 2LT, 1.4L in Wisconsin, kind of combined city and highway driving. Interstates, set the cruise at 70 mph, have to, or will get ran over. Only use Mobil top tier 91 Octane ethanol free gas.
> 
> But that dropped to more like 35 mpg with this winterized stuff. Population of my town is 19,000. Not the largest.



I took a small road trip(100 miles) after filling up and mainly did @70 -75 except a small sprint of 100 mph for a mile or 2. But I have noticed my mileage in the "can"(been watching it drop slowly but is still 28.5 for an LS which is not to bad) also with the "winter blend" also even with Shell 93 octane. Can't wait until spring for real gas again!


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Yes, MI is mostly 70. On the highway road trips I've taken, I've gone between 55 and 60 though. It was in a more rural area, and at times when it wasn't real busy, so it was doable. I just started tracking the average speed lately though, so I don't have those numbers for back then.

My commuting tanks have been averaging low 30s, which would be about 70-75% city. I've been averaging 30-31 mpg calculated, and it really hasn't changed much. It's been on Shell V-power exclusively since 1500 miles (October 7). It could be the winter blend has come into play as the car is breaking in.


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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

NickD said:


> Do you mean those keyed lug nuts? Got those on my 88 Supra when new until I learned I could buy that lug nut key anywhere.
> 
> Dealer said he would cut my shield, and if I wasn't happy with it, would replace it with a new one. Never got that far. Maybe your dealer will do the same for you, never hurts to ask, but his answer may hurt.


Yes, the keyed lug nuts. I probably wouldn't have bought them (never used any before), but the previous dealer forgot to pass along that cost for the extra, so I got them for free. My salesman said it was too late for them to try to claim it since the car was delivered to them already. But they were supposedly $75 new. Plus, all the original lug nuts are in the package with the key, so at least I still have the originals.

Yes, I suppose I could ask the dealer about the shield. I'm not at all getting my hopes up though. I think I'd have better luck calling a few yards around and seeing if they have any parts Cruzen with an uncut shield. Then I could get it, clean it up, install it right, and on my own schedule.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Patman said:


> I bought a quick oil release valve from Advance Auto Parts(not installed yet) and have been thinking about returning for the reasons you mentioned. The one I bought is from Dorman and you push up and turn to release and I am concerned about it leaking my oil out after hitting something or just due to poor design and ruining my engine. Here a link to it. Besides the threads look too small for my oil pan and it is "too deep" compared to the one currently in the pan(don't know this matters).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Weird, drain plug on my 1.4L is a standard six point hex head, would check into getting one of those. Hate Torx in automotive, insides rust out then round out. Tamper proof Torx is even worse with that relatively large hole drilled in the bit, so thin with a corroded screw, tip breaks off.

Like them with precision electronic equipment using titanium screws, even as small as a #1, screw sticks at the end of the bit and a lot easier to install.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

The drain pan I use that does not make a mess going straight down has a big hole on the top and a grating under the cap to catch the drain plug if you drop it. I have one like the one you have with the small hole in the middle that I bought for my Alero and my wife's Malibu that has a drain plug in the back like the Cavalier. Doesn't work well with the Cruze(makes a mess).  Quick View 



*Rhino Gear 10 qt. Oil Drain Pan*

You can pick these up at Walmart or any auto parts store. Good work on the change and the rotation(Did you reset your TPMS so it knows what wheel is where?) I think we beat this post to death. However draining your oil works for you is the way to go.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

I have a question for everyone, what kinda drain plug came with your cruze, sounds odd but i went to change my oil after a dealer change and there was a 10 mm head plug well it got stuck was far to tight went to the dealer to get a new one and they gave me a torx head plug sorry to thread jack

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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

jakkaroo said:


> I have a question for everyone, what kinda drain plug came with your cruze, sounds odd but i went to change my oil after a dealer change and there was a 10 mm head plug well it got stuck was far to tight went to the dealer to get a new one and they gave me a torx head plug sorry to thread jack
> 
> Sent from my MB886 using AutoGuide.Com Free App


I have a Torx T40 with my 1.8 Would like to replace with a 6 pt bolt but what size?


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

1.8 - Torx
1.4 - 10mm


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> 1.8 - Torx
> 1.4 - 10mm


Thought about that, but are they the same thread size?


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Without removing mine and measuring the thread diameter and pitch, best I can find is that it is a M14-1.5mm thread. This one from Advance Auto has an 18 mm hex head bolt. Think that is the same head bolt size, but had to change the oil in several different vehicles since then.

Price is under 3 bucks, but would prefer using the OE type, especially on a new vehicle. Would perhaps be a bit more persistent with my dealer if I needed one. 

Did try to post this photo, normally inserts when I upload it, but seem to be having problems lately. See what happens when I post this. 


[h=2][/h]


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

Patman said:


> Thought about that, but are they the same thread size?


They have to be cause i had the 10 mm on mine

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## Sunline Fan (Jul 29, 2012)

Does this help? I took this when before I decided against the Fumoto:


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## SummitLTZ (Jan 1, 2013)

Since I didn't want to start a new thread about this, I figured I'd bump this up. I am really considering getting this valve. I am now at ~4300mi since purchasing the car with 10mi on it and am looking to get my first oil change done before I hit 5k. I have been researching this valve for quite some time. I went out and looked under my car tonight to see if my aero panel was destroyed by the stealership.








Phew, looks like I dodged that bullet:yahoo:. I went ahead and measured the clearance from the oil pan face to the bottom of the panel.








Looks like theres ~1.5" before the valve is sticking out underneath the cars aero panel. I know many of you are saying you wouldn't want to risk hitting anything with it. Seriously though, I think if you drove over something that was high enough to damage your aero panel or drain valve, I think you'd have other things to worry about.

If I did end up getting the Fumoto drain valve (F-106N) or (F-106S), I'd probably get the one with nipple extension. I don't see any reason for getting the other one, as the whole purpose of this valve for me is to direct the flow of oil down into a container without spitting any oil onto the under panels. After reading this from qwikvalve.com, I think I'll be getting the F-106S (http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f106s-valve.html). I know its only got a 5mm nipple, but it comes with a quick connection piece you could easily slip a hose onto. Watch the video for more info. I'll probably also be getting some clear hose (ex: Amazon.com: Watts SVIG10 Pre-Cut 1/2-Inch Diameter by 3/8-Inch Clear Vinyl Tubing, 10-Foot Length: Home Improvement) to go onto the plastic fitting.

Some users have reported that the threads on the valve protrude into the oil pan such that the extent of the oil cannot be drained during an oil change such as pictured below.









If anyone has dropped their oil pan and knows how thick it is at the oil drain plug interface, please speak up. I have the capability to cut the threaded end down. Another possibility is to notch the threaded end as seen in the two pics below.







VNOTCH
or 







CROSSNOTCH


Thanks for your input.


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## sleddingguy (Nov 2, 2011)

I've had a fumoto on for 26k with no issues or leaks. The valve doesn't stick out beyond the heat shield. I also have a shield that hasn't had the recall done yet. With the valve, I can stick a pan under the car and open the valve without the car being on ramps. It makes for a quick oil change!


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