# No crank, good battery, all dashboard service messages on 2012 1.4L



## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10057574-8899.pdf


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

I'm not sure if the battery cable has already been replaced. Does anyone have a picture of the new (with extra bolt) compared to the old (without extra bolt) to help me figure this out?

I will probably replace the cable myself, since the dealership may not find fault with the cable and charge me for an hour of diagnostics.

I've also just found out that my battery is original to the car, so 7 years old. It has shown no sign of aging, except the corrosion at the positive battery terminal. Maybe that means the alternator is overcharging it since the battery is unable to accept its full output. I will try and check the battery voltages and probably replace it.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

New one on my car.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

The electronics on this car get wonky with even slight voltage or amperage variances. 

Best place to start...replace the 7-year old battery, you got your money’s worth and then some. 

If the problem persists, at least you will have eliminated a major variable and won’t be left stranded later by a suddenly dead battery.


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## eddiefromcali (Aug 21, 2017)

battery cells might be bad. Your thread title says battery is good but you mention getting it looked at....which one is it? Could be a bad cable or bad battery cell just not having any more cranking power but showing OK voltage


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

I assumed the battery was good because all electronics worked and the engine cranked normally the day before it died. I'm used to older cars which crank slower or show dim headlights when the battery is dying. I guess the Cruze just gives up on a weak battery. I'm getting a new one today.

Thanks for sharing the pic of the new negative cable. I'll be replacing that if it doesn't look like the pic. Thanks to everyone for the input.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

FireFox31 said:


> I'm used to older cars which crank slower or show dim headlights when the battery is dying.


I had a battery in my 1977 Monte Carlo that was like that, but I nursed it along for over year. That said, if I didn't get it started on the first try, I would be asking someone for a jump.

Since then, I haven't had a battery like that, that would show its age with slow cranking. It seems like every battery I've had in the past 30 years died pretty quickly. They would go from starting the car with solid cranking to only clicking, or doing nothing at all - like someone had thrown the switch and the battery was done, with little or no warning.

I suspect that battery construction and technology has changed such that they don't die slowly anymore, they just quit all of a sudden. Or so it seems, anyway.

Doug

.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

FireFox31 said:


> I assumed the battery was good because all electronics worked and the engine cranked normally the day before it died. I'm used to older cars which crank slower or show dim headlights when the battery is dying. I guess the Cruze just gives up on a weak battery. I'm getting a new one today.
> 
> Thanks for sharing the pic of the new negative cable. I'll be replacing that if it doesn't look like the pic. Thanks to everyone for the input.


When my battery went, the gauges went wild and lights just shut off when cranked and one single click happened. Oreilly tested battery bad. Also if you get a new battery, you can size up from stock. I did and the car cranks much faster now. Battery was the exact same price just more CCA.


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

I installed a new ACDelco Gold battery and the car will still not start.

I have the old negative battery cable, so I tried to bypass it. With a jumper cable between the negative battery post and the negative cable's ground point, the car would not start.









I tried to test for bad engine/starter ground. With a jumper cable between the negative battery post and the engine lift point on the front right, the car would still not start. I assume the starter is grounded to the engine like on other cars, then the engine has a strap grounding it to the car body.









All of the fuses for the ignition are intact and all of its relays look fine inside their cases. I will replace the negative battery cable with the new one later today.

What else can I check or replace to fix this sudden "no crank" issue? Where are the engine/starter grounding straps to the body? It must be something simple since it just stopped after working fine earlier in the week.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Did you read through the bulletin I linked? There's more then just replacing the cable I believe. Checking other grounding points, etc.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Check for power to the starter terminal.
Check for power at the little terminals on the starter. Make sure you got power when start is demanded. 

First off. Did you check those big 250 amp fuses? 

There's been a couple of posts that blew there's. 

You need to be thorough on both positive and negative. Not just ground alone.

Might even have a bad starter


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

When I turn the key, I don't even hear any relays clicking to try and start. Does the Cruze have relays which should click when attempting to start? Other cars I've serviced have that, so "no click" is a significant symptom.

Is there a ignition disabling switch, such as one which requires the brake pedal to be pushed to start it? Maybe that failed?

I see the starter at the back of the engine. Do I have to remove the air intake to get to it? Is there a post on here describing that process?

I checked J-case fuse #12 for starter solenoid, a square fuses with a clear plastic top, and both thin fused links were intact. I also checked mini fuses #5, 10, 16, 17, 52.

The car won't start in neutral, which I saw mentioned in another post. The common point of failure on the Bosch starters is the tiny braided cable exposed to the elements, but mine looks decent.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

If you read the service bulletin, all that is needed is the customer say they are having electrical issues. Even if it has been replaced once, it may have had a bad cable installed again.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Best way to check fuses is with a test light probing both ends. 
Power on both ends is good. Power on one end only is burnt.
No need to pull the fuse. And sometimes they break and the naked eye can't see it. 

Course. Hard to do with these tiny fuses being used today.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Blasirl said:


> If you read the service bulletin, all that is needed is the customer say they are having electrical issues. Even if it has been replaced once, it may have had a bad cable installed again.


I can't understand why he won't just take it in rather than chasing it. Has the old cable and it would be covered. I get there's wait time involved with a dealer, but you can't seem to find the problem and I believe would benefit from a free repair. ?‍♂


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

FireFox31 said:


> Turning the key to Start simply turns off everything except one dashboard light.


What is the light?



FireFox31 said:


> For the two years I've owned it, the positive battery terminal constantly builds up corrosion.


That's worrisome. That suggests the battery is leaking and there's some sensitive stuff under the battery.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> That's worrisome. That suggests the battery is leaking and there's some sensitive stuff under the battery.


Nice catch!




FireFox31 said:


> For the two years I've owned it, the positive battery terminal constantly builds up corrosion. There wasn't much on there when this problem started, but I cleaned it off anyway. That still didn't help.
> 
> Thanks.


Wow, somehow I missed that tidbit. I had/have the same problem. I've been nursing mine along until the right battery is on sale AND I don't miss said sale.

*Holy Famunda Batman! There’s a blue fungus among us!

Cruze Battery Upgrade Options *


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

I just replaced the old style negative battery cable with the new style one, and yesterday I replaced the seven year old battery with a new ACDelco Gold. The car will still not crank. Turning the key shuts off all cabin power (except the dash check engine light), making no sounds. The dash computer still reports warnings to "Service" a few things and "Low Fuel".



snowwy66 said:


> First off. Did you check those big 250 amp fuses?


Do you mean the 250 amp fuses located on the battery positive cable? How can I test those (with a multimeter or visually, I have no test light)? I will try to bypass the fuse temporarily as was done in this post.

And yes, I will try to probe the starter terminals if I can safely access them (maybe from underneath).

I think the starter solenoid is not receiving the signal to try and start. I expect to hear a click from the solenoid when the key is turned, but don't hear it. I'll investigate that angle as well.

I will keep searching the forum for info, as well as reference my notes from years ago when I diagnosed and fixed a no crank, no start problem on my Volvo (bad braided copper wire on the 16 year old starter). Thanks for your help.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

A volt meter works just as well as a test light.


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

I finally connected my OBD-II reader. Got a code U0100 Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A".

I double checked all fuses related to ignition and ECM using a voltmeter and all were fine.

The car is being towed to the dealership now. It's in their hands now.


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

The dealership found a mouse had chewed through multiple wires under the battery and fuse box. $675 for two hours diagnosis, three hours of repairing the harness, and $100 in parts. They said the harness was on backorder so repair was the only viable option.

Mice also started chewing a vacuum line in the area. Another $125 to replace that.

So the no crank and U0100 were not caused by common problems, but by a common mouse. For the next person this happens to, check the wires under the battery and fuse box. Thanks everyone for your help.


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

The car won't start again, though it worked after the dealer's repair. Turn the key and there's no click (starter solenoid), no crank, and everything simply goes dead. The dashboard error messages are now erratic, sometimes showing "Service Power Steering" and/or "Service Park Assist". With the key in the second position, the yellow car-skidding traction control light is blinking on and off erratically. I'm also getting the code U0073 "Control Module Communication Bus Off".

The dealership confirmed that they repaired the thin harness which runs from the steering rack, forward along the underside, and over to beneath the left headlight. It is part # 95316291. I still see damage to the wire leaving bare copper exposed. I will replace that and hope everything works.

How could a damaged power steering data wire cause such interference with the ECM?


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

I have correctly solved my problems with U0100, U0073, and no start. A rodent chewed the power steering wiring harness where it runs exposed along the base of the car, preventing it from starting. After paying $600 to have that harness repaired, a rodent came back and chewed it again, leaving me unable to start the car a second time.

To stop the rodents from chewing the wires, I wrapped them in Honda "spicy pepper tape". Honda created tape laced with capsaicin, the compound which causes spice in foods, to stop rodents from chewing their wiring conduit which was made with soy based plastics. The tape is Honda part # 4019-2317 for $57 list (or $40 + shipping online) for a 20 meter roll. I wrapped a new power steering harness entirely in the tape, overlapping half the previous wrap with a new layer as Honda recommended. I recommend using zip ties to secure each end point of the tape to prevent it from coming unwrapped.

Removing the old harness was difficult because of all the push mount zip ties holding the harness to brackets in the car. They had to be destructively removed since they are so deep in the engine bay, which is fine because the new harness comes with new ones at the appropriate spots. Also, disconnecting the sockets at the power steering rack was very hard because they are secured by tabs which must be pressed with impossible force. I had to destroy those too because the new harness, of course, has new ones. Installing the new harness was simple, mostly done from above, but the final routing along the underside required the car to be lifted.

I plan to wrap all other exposed harnesses in Honda capsaicin tape, starting from the lowest ones (brake electrical lines) and working up. It's a cheap fix to the expensive problem of rodent damage, especially when breaking a few simple wires prevents the car from starting.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

FireFox31 said:


> I plan to wrap all other exposed harnesses in Honda capsaicin tape, starting from the lowest ones (brake electrical lines) and working up.


I don't know how well that will work. I'm pretty sure we have some rats down here in Texas who like spicy food...errr...wires  

Seriously, when you do this, I'm thinking you might want to glove up, altho that can make peeling the tape difficult. I typically use latex gloves from Autozone when I'm working on the car. Nitrile works, too. Both give you decent feel, but peeling tape is still tough.

Be careful not to touch your face with your hands - for sure, don't rub your eyes. Working on the car, you will likely get sweaty, and, if the capsaicin can be transferred in any way to your hands, you must take care not to get it in your eyes. Working on the car and wiping sweat off your face seem to go together. So be careful.

Doug

.


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## FireFox31 (Mar 28, 2018)

plano-doug said:


> Seriously, when you do this, I'm thinking you might want to glove up


The Honda technical service bulletin which recommends this tape says to "avoid prolonged exposure". I wore thin latex gloves while applying the tape and when installing the harness. Yes, the tape stuck to them, so I had to work carefully. I always wear gloves when working deep inside the car to keep grease off my hands, so I'm used to them.

After the job, I found a slight rash up near my elbow. I think that came from my arm touching the taped harness while I was reaching down from above to connect things at the power steering rack. The rash went away in a day.

And yes, of course I stuck my tongue on the tape. After about two seconds, I could feel the spice. I would hate to be a rodent biting into it, getting the full dose. Yes, I'm wrapping every exposed harness in this stuff to prevent future rodent damage.


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