# Ac off due to high temp



## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Lots of people have experienced. Scroll down the threads and you'll find what they've done.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

Use the search bar to your right.

1st check your Coolant level

2013 Cruze A/C off due to high engine temp
Nice reply by Jblackburn


Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## larzman (Jan 19, 2016)

snowwy66 said:


> Lots of people have experienced. Scroll down the threads and you'll find what they've done.


I've read all threads that come back when searching for this "AC Off Due to High Engine Temp Message on DIC". No one has provided an answer yet, change a temp sensor is about the only thing I've seen, which did not work for me. The official Chevy tech is about useless, "take it to the dealer"... sure, so you can spend another $400 to have them not fix the problem.

I'll go a little further in my description, my temp gauge sometimes works normal and there is no message in the DIC. However, there is a permanent code in my OBDC scanner. The CEL is always on, has been for about 2 years in my 2012 Cruze LS. I fortunately got an emissions exemption from the state to allow me to get my license plate stickers because the Cruze won't pass an emissions test with the CEL light on. Anyway, my Cruze runs quite well, but the heater sucks and we've had a **** cold winter in Chicago this year. I want to fix the problem for several reasons, including freezing on my morning drive to work and the inability to thaw ice from the windshield. A heater that works would be nice. I'm open to suggestions.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

larzman said:


> I've read all threads that come back when searching for this "AC Off Due to High Engine Temp Message on DIC". No one has provided an answer yet, change a temp sensor is about the only thing I've seen, which did not work for me. The official Chevy tech is about useless, "take it to the dealer"... sure, so you can spend another $400 to have them not fix the problem.
> 
> I'll go a little further in my description, my temp gauge sometimes works normal and there is no message in the DIC. However, there is a permanent code in my OBDC scanner. The CEL is always on, has been for about 2 years in my 2012 Cruze LS. I fortunately got an emissions exemption from the state to allow me to get my license plate stickers because the Cruze won't pass an emissions test with the CEL light on. Anyway, my Cruze runs quite well, but the heater sucks and we've had a **** cold winter in Chicago this year. I want to fix the problem for several reasons, including freezing on my morning drive to work and the inability to thaw ice from the windshield. A heater that works would be nice. I'm open to suggestions.


You must have posted white text or something as I did not see your reply until I was going to quote you.

What do you mean by sometimes works?

What is the code?

I assume you have a 1.8.

What does/doesn't the heater do?


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## larzman (Jan 19, 2016)

the gauge "Sometimes works", intermittent operation. Rarely works when temp is below about 40 degrees F. Works 50-60% (optimistically, lol) of the time when temp is above 40F. When working, it reads normal operating temp, rising after the car has been running a few minutes, then flattening off around 210. When not working, it doesn't move off from dead cold (flatline pointing left), even when heater is blowing warm air (after car has warmed up). DIC gives "A/C off due to high engine temp" error from the time the ignition switch is turned on to start the car.

I believe it was a "P0128 Coolant Thermostat - below regulating temperature" code. I could not clear it using my scanner as its a permanent code. I can verify tomorrow but that is the photo of it that I have on phone and I'm pretty certain it hasn't changed. 

Yes, I have a 1.8L

After initial warm up time of about 4 minutes, heater works with warm air on first 2 (lowest) blower settings, faster settings and it blows luke warm air at best. This doesn't change regardless of driving conditions and length of operation. During Chicago winter, interior of car never reaches about roughly 45 degrees when it below freezing outside.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

larzman said:


> the gauge "Sometimes works", intermittent operation. Rarely works when temp is below about 40 degrees F. Works 50-60% (optimistically, lol) of the time when temp is above 40F. When working, it reads normal operating temp, rising after the car has been running a few minutes, then flattening off around 210. When not working, it doesn't move off from dead cold (flatline pointing left), even when heater is blowing warm air (after car has warmed up). DIC gives "A/C off due to high engine temp" error from the time the ignition switch is turned on to start the car.
> 
> I believe it was a "P0128 Coolant Thermostat - below regulating temperature" code. I could not clear it using my scanner as its a permanent code. I can verify tomorrow but that is the photo of it that I have on phone and I'm pretty certain it hasn't changed.
> 
> ...


A code P0128 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: 

Low engine coolant level Leaking or stuck open thermostat (likely) 
Faulty cooling fan (running too much) 
Faulty coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 
Faulty intake air temperature (IAT) sensor

Read more at: P0128 Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature


1. Make sure you have enough coolant

2. I would remove and replace the T-stat sensors and clean any corrosion off of them for a cheap first try item. A second step here would be to also de-gunk the connectors for both at the sensors and at the ECM (I think these terminate there)






3. I would consider replacing the T-stat for the next step.

If you can afford it, replace all three at the same time.

It also seems as if you have another issue. 
4. To be sure though, read this thread No air from vents! and at least look at the "controller". 

5. Lastly do the same as 1. and 2. for the IAT.

Hope this helps.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Just for a check prior to removing them - generic video though


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## Ravenkeeper (Sep 10, 2017)

I had this issue about a month or two ago. Coolant was DEFINITELY low. Hose from the "Water Outlet Housing" to the reservoir was leaking. Less than $75 for new Water Outlet Housing and hose to the reservoir, and about 30 minutes. Ours has DexCool, so you have to use DexCool. Do _*NOT*_ put in any other color of anti-freeze.


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## larzman (Jan 19, 2016)

thanks for the troubleshooting tips. I replaced one sensor (on the back, drivers side of engine) and will replace the other when I get a warmer day. Its about 20F out right now and trying to remove sensor clips with cold hands is no fun and my fingers cant get the dam clips off. I'll check it later this week, hopefully replacing other sensor does the trick. Thermostat was changed about 1.5 years ago by previous owner and seems to be working as I do get heat when above 40F and temp gauge is registering as it should, and it has never has overheated.


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## DyneHaZ (Jul 26, 2013)

I've had this twice and ended up replacing the engine thermostat twice.


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## Ravenkeeper (Sep 10, 2017)

Ravenkeeper said:


> I had this issue about a month or two ago. Coolant was DEFINITELY low. Hose from the "Water Outlet Housing" to the reservoir was leaking. Less than $75 for new Water Outlet Housing and hose to the reservoir, and about 30 minutes. Ours has DexCool, so you have to use DexCool. Do _*NOT*_ put in any other color of anti-freeze.


This last week, the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on, so yesterday, after I got dinner going, I ran over to AutoZone, and got the codes. Came up with two codes, O2 Sensor & Air Inlet Sensor. So I drove back to the house, and realized that I disconnected those to replace the Water Outlet Housing & reservoir hose. Popped the hood, and they were still connected, disconnected them again, sprayed contact cleaner on them, and reconnected them. Now to go get the engine light reset, probably tomorrow after I wake up, unless my daughter does it tonight on her way home from school.


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## NobleCruze (Feb 1, 2018)

There’s a helpful scan tool on Amazon called the Oxgord scan tool. It’s simple to use, about $30 and will save you a lot of time running to Autozone. You’ll be able to plug into the OB2 port scan code (with the key turned but car off) and view, clear codes etc.


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## Ravenkeeper (Sep 10, 2017)

NobleCruze said:


> There’s a helpful scan tool on Amazon called the Oxgord scan tool. It’s simple to use, about $30 and will save you a lot of time running to Autozone. You’ll be able to plug into the OB2 port scan code (with the key turned but car off) and view, clear codes etc.


I have one, but I haven't seen it since we moved last summer. Besides, AutoZone is pretty much right across the street from the house.


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## larzman (Jan 19, 2016)

measured new and old temp sensors (radiator mounted) and both are fine. Still have AC off due to high engine temp error and CE light on with permanent code on my scanner. 

Any suggestions for a fix? Thermostat and both temp sensors have also been replaced, engine runs and operates as designed with no faults, except this mystic AC off error and CE light. The temp gauge in dash sometimes works, but usually flatlines to left (cold) even after car is completely up to operating temp. Note, it's getting warmer in Chicagoland, so I expect the temp gauge to start working more often, as it did last summer.

Has anyone done any wiring harness/connector work to fix this error?


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Yes wiring/connnector repairs are common. A high resistance connection means the ECM reads a lower temp than is actually occurring. A lower than expected temp is literally what cause the P0128 to set.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Didn't someone mention that there are 3 temps sensors for the coolant?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

snowwy66 said:


> Didn't someone mention that there are 3 temps sensors for the coolant?


I could not find any official references. I know about the two on the engine and uless you mistakenly included the outside air temp sensor for some reason, I believe there are only two. (Possibly the CTD has three though - not sure). But this video points the two out.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Here is a 1.8 specific video - looks like they are the same as the 1.4


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Blasirl said:


> snowwy66 said:
> 
> 
> > Didn't someone mention that there are 3 temps sensors for the coolant?
> ...


Seems like talk w as 3 sensors when I first joined the forum. Don't remember if it was all the related posts to this post or something about thermostats


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## Smsmith0913 (Aug 19, 2019)

Jason78007 said:


> Hi, I got this message ac off due to high temp and my fan keeps running with my temp gage stuck at cold. I have a 2012 chevy cruze and I am thinking its a bad thermostat? Has anyone experienced this issue?


I have this same error. I have changed thermostat and both sensors. The fan, negative battery cable, the radiator and the reservoir for the antifreeze. It fixes for a couple of days each time I change something then it happens again. Goes back to same errors. AC off due to high engine temp. Temp gage doesn't register temp


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Smsmith0913 said:


> I have this same error. I have changed thermostat and both sensors. The fan, negative battery cable, the radiator and the reservoir for the antifreeze. It fixes for a couple of days each time I change something then it happens again. Goes back to same errors. AC off due to high engine temp. Temp gauge doesn't register temp


Welcome Aboard!

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Golfnut (Dec 6, 2019)

Hi folks. I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze 1.4 L Turbo and I am also experiencing this console error message but no check engine light. Temp gauge is always Cold, fan comes on at startup. I replaced both temp sensors, but same error. No coolant leaks. I have not seen a resolution in this or other forums even after folks changed the thermostat and water pump for this specific issue. If anyone can chime in, please do or point me to discussion if I missed it.


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## Dbcallaway88 (Dec 9, 2020)

Man if anyone figures this out I’m suffering the same issues


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## DanDan (Dec 29, 2020)

Jason78007 said:


> Hi, I got this message ac off due to high temp and my fan keeps running with my temp gage stuck at cold. I have a 2012 chevy cruze and I am thinking its a bad thermostat? Has anyone experienced this issue?


Hello did u find out what it was


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## Dbcallaway88 (Dec 9, 2020)

DanDan said:


> Hello did u find out what it was


I replaced my thermostat and the issue hasn’t come back. Now I’m dealing with transmission solenoid


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## DanDan (Dec 29, 2020)

Dbcallaway88 said:


> I replaced my thermostat and the issue hasn’t come back. Now I’m dealing with transmission solenoid


This the worst car I have ever bought


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## Dbcallaway88 (Dec 9, 2020)

DanDan said:


> This the worst car I have ever bought


Yep. I’m selling mine I paid 3500 hoping to get 2k. I’ll never fw Chevy ever again


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## Bluntboy37 (Apr 22, 2021)

I have a 2011 chevy cruze 1.4 100k miles i have replaces the cooling fan, both temp sensors, water outlet, thernostat twice, water pump and am getting the same message Ac off due to high temp if anyone knows anything else to replace im all ears, i also have the underboost code and it runs good for the most part till the light starts flashing


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## TRMoses (Jul 16, 2021)

There are two engine coolant temperature sensors in the Cruze. One is on the passenger side in the radiator and its somewhat hard to see.


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## mdwl2004 (Oct 27, 2021)

larzman said:


> measured new and old temp sensors (radiator mounted) and both are fine. Still have AC off due to high engine temp error and CE light on with permanent code on my scanner.
> 
> Any suggestions for a fix? Thermostat and both temp sensors have also been replaced, engine runs and operates as designed with no faults, except this mystic AC off error and CE light. The temp gauge in dash sometimes works, but usually flatlines to left (cold) even after car is completely up to operating temp. Note, it's getting warmer in Chicagoland, so I expect the temp gauge to start working more often, as it did last summer.
> 
> Has anyone done any wiring harness/connector work to fix this error?


I have this same issue and I've replaced the thermostat twice all the sensors twice and the water pump twice


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