# Running hot after accident repair by Chevy shop



## james18cruze (Jul 17, 2019)

I had the vehicle placed in a Chevy Shop. It was a 2018 Chevrolet Cruze. Root decided to repair instead of totaling. There was 12,000 dollars worth of damage, and the coolant system (except for a few pieces (water pump)) was replaced. I picked it up and traveled 15 minutes (12 miles) and it overheated with Idle Engine AC Disabled message. It then presented the Engine Propulsion Reduced error. The only code was Traction Control, however. I had it towed back and the shop said it was a loose hose. The car still runs hot (about the halfway mark instead of the quarter mark). It's with Chevy dealer now, but they cant find any codes, even the cleared one. What could possibly be causing the car to run hot, but not really overheat?


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

The only way to really know the coolant temperature is by using a scan tool that can read the live data stream. It my sound fancy but they only cost about $40.
You see the DIC coolant temperature gauge doesn't actually show the actual coolant temperature most of the time. If the DIC coolant temperature stays below the half way point, the car doesn't think its overheating. Your car should show the DIC coolant temperature just shy of half way. But know that just means the real temperature is between about 195-225F. My Gen 1 runs at about 220F most of the time. IIRC Gen 2 run just a bit cooler.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

The 1/2 way mark on the coolant gauge is normal.


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## james18cruze (Jul 17, 2019)

jblackburn said:


> The 1/2 way mark on the coolant gauge is normal.


Mines always run at the quarter mark, and even the dealers acknowledge that the temp is not normal.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Halfway mark is normal (mine's always run one tick above since new; the Gen 1's were always one mark below 1/2).

Is your gauge at 3/4 or 1/2? If it was running all the way down at 1/4 before, the thermostat was stuck open, and it is now operating as designed.


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## Barry Allen (Apr 18, 2018)

james18cruze said:


> Mines always run at the quarter mark, and even the dealers acknowledge that the temp is not normal.


So what you are saying is your car was functioning improperly before the accident, and now it's been fixed?


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## 17Hatch6MT (Dec 28, 2015)

Mine runs just a hair above 1/2 all the time. These are 'idiot gauges'. In the long ago past, the temp gauge was an actual gauge. The gauge would go up when you were headed up a long hill, and go down when you coasted down the other side. But too many people complained that they thought something was wrong with the car. So this is what we have now. It doesn't go to 'hot' until it's too late, about like idiot lights.


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## brodie29a (Feb 21, 2021)

The only time I had my 13 with a 1.4L and it was at the 1/4 mark is when my thermostat went out and thankfully it went out wide open instead of closed. Mine runs a tick below the 212 mark (1/2 mark) and in the winter a lil cooler.


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## Cruton (Sep 19, 2017)

My 14 also runs 1 tick below the halfway mark, whether in stop-and-go traffic, or out on the turnpike at 70mph.


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## Cruze CTRL (Sep 16, 2021)

james18cruze said:


> I had the vehicle placed in a Chevy Shop. It was a 2018 Chevrolet Cruze. Root decided to repair instead of totaling. There was 12,000 dollars worth of damage, and the coolant system (except for a few pieces (water pump)) was replaced. I picked it up and traveled 15 minutes (12 miles) and it overheated with Idle Engine AC Disabled message. It then presented the Engine Propulsion Reduced error. The only code was Traction Control, however. I had it towed back and the shop said it was a loose hose. The car still runs hot (about the halfway mark instead of the quarter mark). It's with Chevy dealer now, but they cant find any codes, even the cleared one. What could possibly be causing the car to run hot, but not really overheat?


If the engine is running hot: The blower will engage @t high speed OFTEN! That's how you know!
How to solve the problem: 1st Try purging the radiator w a 13mm Hex key






, if it keeps air filling the WPump is in its way out most likely!
2nd See if the dealer diluted the AFreeze with 50% soft water (google how to).
3rd Consider testing the T(hermo)stat for proper operation.. if not WP may have a loose impeller WP failure signs.


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