# Pics, factory cold air box.



## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

Ok everybody i finally got some pics of the factory resonator that i deleted. i now have a K&N Filter in the stock air box. but i have delted all the small bends and turns from the factory air tube.


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

more pics


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

some more pics


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

more pics


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

last ones


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

the factory air feed tube is in front of the radiator. it then goes in thru the raditor support, then the box sets in between the raditator support and the fender well. then it feeds up to the air box that you put your airfilter in. 
it starts off pretty then then goes down smaller then a quarter, it also has an indent in the center of the tube that diverts air it looks like. then it goes into another bend and into another diverter where the air is split up and goes into a silencer. then one more bend and narrow passage before it feeds the air box on top of the fender well. 
very restrictive if you ask me. i will let everyone know hwat it sounds like now and how it feels. just wanted to post up a couple of pics for everyone.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...nice use of the "quarter" as a _standard _size-reference!


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

the bad thing is i had to get my 5 year olds piggy bank to get the quarter. lol


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...kids will do that to you...wait until they're teenagers!


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

yeah they take all my change for there piggy banks. lol


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## 2011lt1 (Dec 13, 2010)

LARRY01Z28 said:


> the factory air feed tube is in front of the radiator. it then goes in thru the raditor support, then the box sets in between the raditator support and the fender well. then it feeds up to the air box that you put your airfilter in.
> it starts off pretty then then goes down smaller then a quarter, it also has an indent in the center of the tube that diverts air it looks like. then it goes into another bend and into another diverter where the air is split up and goes into a silencer. then one more bend and narrow passage before it feeds the air box on top of the fender well.
> very restrictive if you ask me. i will let everyone know hwat it sounds like now and how it feels. just wanted to post up a couple of pics for everyone.




excellent work larry. i see you figured it out with out my pics. glad you finished since i just did not have the time to do it. so how is it? throttle response better? can you hear the turbo or the bov?


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

i feel throttle response is a little better. not to much louder really. feels like it spools up a little better. but it may just be me.


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## 2011lt1 (Dec 13, 2010)

LARRY01Z28 said:


> i feel throttle response is a little better. not to much louder really. feels like it spools up a little better. but it may just be me.



as big and restrictive as that thing was it has to sound better and the throttle response has to be crisper. i just took out that rubber piece that goes into the fender well with the pipe and it got a little louder. how does it come out? is it fastened to the body of the car with snaps like the air box or it it screwed or bolted? guess you had ot take out the whole under fender well? you have the turbo motor right?


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## Spaceme (Jan 20, 2011)

The bumper needs to be removed to remove the intake tube. There is one bolt holding the intake tube in the front and two rubber grommets holding the silencing box located in the fender well. I removed everything except the box and the small piece that connects the box to the fender well. Seems to help the engine and I can only tell that it is slightly louder but only under full throttle.


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

front bumper needs to be removed and the psg side inner fender well. 
its very simple.


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

LARRY01Z28 said:


> front bumper needs to be removed and the psg side inner fender well.
> its very simple.


are there any instructions for removing front fascia larry?


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

i didnt have any insturcutions. there are 3 star scres in each fender well. and buch of 10mm (i think) bolts on the bottom, and then the bumper just pulls off. trust me its a little scary but it does just pop off. maybe one of the gm guys can give the detailed instructions.


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## Socky3076r (Jan 31, 2011)

So can you actually hear the turbo spooling?


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

it is a little more nodicable. nothing like my talon. but it is louder.


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## Socky3076r (Jan 31, 2011)

LARRY01Z28 said:


> it is a little more nodicable. nothing like my talon. but it is louder.


Cool, I am thinking about trying this mod, now we just need a front mount intercooler and HKS blow off valve!!!


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

yeah, ZZP performance is supposed to be working on a FMIC for the cruze. so we shall see.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...for the curious: *F*ront-*M*ounted *I*nter-*C*ooler (FMIC)


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

my bad. i guess i thru out an ancroynm that soem people might not know. 

thanks for covering my tracks man


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

LARRY01Z28 said:


> my bad. i guess i thru out an ancroynm that soem people might not know.
> 
> thanks for covering my tracks man


...you're welcome (that's what _ex_-teachers do).


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## LARRY01Z28 (Dec 4, 2010)

TTT for pictures/ i know a few people have asked.


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## Kinmartin0789 (Feb 18, 2011)

im trying to decide if this is worth it on my LS 1.8 L i have the fog light kit to install so i will have the bumper off anyway but not the fender wall... hmm decisions. i wonder if theres much to gain for me


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

A free 1% is still a free 1%  
It's worth the extra sound and slight increase in air flow


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## ECRUZ (Mar 6, 2011)

I know this was done on a 1.4l Turbo, but curious if the intake resonator delete is the same for the 1.8l or not? If anyone knows if it's the same or completely different...thanks in advance


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...as I recall, the 1.8L comes with a 2-stage intake "resonator" manifold that uses a LONG-length at _lower_ engine speeds to achieve a degree of ram-induction for more torque and power, then switches over to a SHORT-length at _higher_ engine speeds to continue the ram-induction effect for more horsepower...here's what the *GM* literature says:

_"The Ecotec 1.8L’s two-stage variable intake manifold optimizes fuel economy and performance. At engine speeds below 4,000 rpm, inlet air passes through 35.8-inch-long (910 mm) intake tracts that help increase torque. At speeds greater than 4,000 rpm, a rotary sleeve within the lightweight composite intake manifold closes off the full length of the intake tracts, forcing air through a shorter, 10.2-inch (260 mm) path that helps build horsepower."_

...are you willing to "mess" with those results, where possibly the new intake lengths might be at "odds" with the GM engineers original designs?


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## ECRUZ (Mar 6, 2011)

Oh...i did not know that...thanks for the info...


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

70AARCUDA said:


> ...as I recall, the 1.8L comes with a 2-stage intake "resonator" manifold


This system will be located internally to the intake manifold and will have nothing to do with any silencers that are located along the length fo the intake plumbing. The system you're refering to alters the effective length of the intake manifold runners, "showing" the engine longer runners at lower RPM and shorter runners at higher RPM. This all hapens between the intake manifold plenum and the cylinder head.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...sorry, but "*Helmholtz Resonator Theory*" says that adding/subtracting lengths ahead of a "turned" element will significantly disrupt the intended "tuned" resonant functions.

...anything that shifts a *¼-wave-length* tuned element (ie: a "*shorted*" stub) toward a longer *½-wave-length* tuned element (ie: a "*open*" stub) will significantly shift "_pressure_ reflections" into "_anti-phased/reversal_ reflections."

...ask your local muffler shop guy who knows something about headers.


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## ECRUZ (Mar 6, 2011)

OK...now I am confused...  ...but from the way it seems from what 70AARCUDA replied to me in his last post, was that the stock intake ducting/plumbing on the 1.8L Cruze is actually a very good set-up...I am correct in saying that? Also if I remove it I could actually loose power due to turbulence that would be cause by not having the intake ducting there?

Thank you again for all your help cuda...


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## Bossy70 (Feb 25, 2011)

did this to mine yesterday. My K&N filter arrived today.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...a chassis dynometer run will 'capture & show' this problem of *power*-_loss_-*power* effect due to intake-flow "reversal" at certain engine speeds, although you might be able to notice it as a slight "lull" at certain RPMS while accelerating...and this can happen multiple times.

...the stock OEM *1.8L* intake creates a slight "bump" in power when the intake runners switch from LONG to SHORT length, but this only occurs once.

...has anybody _noticed_ this yet on their *1.8L* engines with aftermarket intakes installed?


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## 2011lt1 (Dec 13, 2010)

So according to Vince from trifecta, on the 1.4t that velocity stack as its being referred to is needed in order to straighten out the air flow for the MAF to read properly and make its adjustments. 


He informed me now that II running the tune that removing the silencer or velocity stack will show no gains and actually cause some disruption to the MAF and make it kinda of twitchy.

this is my first FI car. However from my experince with N/A cars this should only help it or benefit it since the motor is relying on atmospheric pressure to draw air. where as the turbo is drawing from the air being compressed

Obviously only a dyno will prove it


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

..."twitchy" is an _interesting_ choice of words, but probably 100% correct.


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## 2011lt1 (Dec 13, 2010)

70AARCUDA said:


> ..."twitchy" is an _interesting_ choice of words, but probably 100% correct.



those were his words lol. he said he saw no gains modifying the intake


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## CruzeBop (Mar 17, 2011)

70AARCUDA said:


> ...sorry, but "*Helmholtz Resonator Theory*" says that adding/subtracting lengths ahead of a "turned" element will significantly disrupt the intended "tuned" resonant functions.
> 
> ...anything that shifts a *¼-wave-length* tuned element (ie: a "*shorted*" stub) toward a longer *½-wave-length* tuned element (ie: a "*open*" stub) will significantly shift "_pressure_ reflections" into "_anti-phased/reversal_ reflections."
> 
> ...ask your local muffler shop guy who knows something about headers.


You're like the MacGyver of this thread. I dunno what you're sayin but it sounds cool.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

CruzeBop said:


> You're like the MacGyver of this thread. I dunno what you're sayin but it sounds cool.


...thanks, I think?!? (  )


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

I'm also hearing that while removing parts of the intake track are enhancing the turbo spool sound, it's messing with the airflow... I'm usually one to rip these things apart and remove whatever I can, and attach a cone filter near the MAF but I'm holding off on that for now


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

FYI I'm trying to get some more clarification on this and I'll let everyone know what I find


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...just for _clarification_, my "*Helmholtz*" answer was in regard to the OP's *dual-length* intake system on his *1.8L* engine...and _not_ the 1.4LT engine.


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## shawn672 (Oct 31, 2010)

70AARCUDA said:


> ...just for _clarification_, my "*Helmholtz*" answer was in regard to the OP's *dual-length* intake system on his *1.8L* engine...and _not_ the 1.4LT engine.


This thread has gone such awry but it's cool. As long as everyones keeping up with the flow of the thread


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## HSR (Jul 5, 2011)

*Can some one help me out please? FCAB*

I'm new to Cruzetalk, and also new to modding cars. I own a 1.4L Turbo Cruze 2LT. So I just finished the "Factory Cold Air Box" mod, put everything back together ( taking it all apart and putting it back together was a day long mod for me haha ) and I started it up and it now has a fast repetitive ticking noise coming from the engine. Didn't do this before I done the mod and I'm not sure how to fix it? doesn't seem normal? :S Is the engine getting too much air now? I very much don't want to put the pieces back in as it took me all day to take em out and was a major pain getting the bumper cover off the clips. I'm going to try disconnecting the battery in the morning...I have no idea if it'll reset anything but its all I can think of right now. Someone please help.


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## OptimusCruze (Aug 20, 2011)

I'm gonna give this mod a shot, any pointers?


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## HSR (Jul 5, 2011)

Don't take the bumper cover off!!! just leave the snorkel looking thing in, just use some string to tie it in place so it doesn't bounce around. It'll make the mod a **** of alot easier and if you need to bring it in for service (if you think they'll have to check the intake out) you can easly bring it back to OEM.


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