# Bypass oil filter



## pacolino (Aug 1, 2015)

Any pics of your amsoil assembly or part#?

Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

There was a member who installed one and a few other mods. GM invalidated his warranty. He traded it in at a loss on a VW TDI. He got tired of his TDI and traded it in on another CTD. Then he dropped out of here.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Yeah haven't seen him in a while.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I personally don't think it's necessary. My engine has over 152K miles on it and still runs like brand new, with no appreciable oil consumption and 15,000 mile change intervals.


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

To me back a few years ago like pre 2007 it might have helped to have a by-pass filter, but not with todays modern diesels.


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

It probably is overkill but it was an extra part my uncle had laying around so he gave it to me (filter included) so right now I have $0 in it. I want to switch over to amsoil at my next service but when I called to place my order (9/2014) the tech dept said they don't have a dexos2 approved oil (I read the thread about CTD oils on here as well, nice write up btw) or an oil filter either for our cruzes. So, I guess I'll go with their 5w/30 oil, which one are you guys who use amsoil using?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I use the low SAPS European formula.


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

The AMSOIL AEL 5w-30 is dexos2.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

That certification is relatively new, but basically the same oil. i think they may have done this because of the Colorado/Canyon diesel.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

diesel said:


> That certification is relatively new, but basically the same oil. i think they may have done this because of the Colorado/Canyon diesel.


Ding ding, we have a winner! Just like Pennzoil's 5W-30 Ultra Euro L all of a sudden got a shiny dexos2 badge on the front.

The next part of the ripple effect IMO is the ability to walk into walmart and find a dexos2 certified 5w-30 oil on the shelf from a big name....


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

Thanks for the info guys. I also think this will be a good way to add oil capacity (almost 2 quarts) to help lower oil temps and increase my oil change intervals. I find it odd that this engine holds just under 5 quarts of oil (4.75 IIRC), sorry I don't have any part numbers but I plan to take some pics of my progress and eventually post them here.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

All of those mods might make sense on a car out of warranty, these modern engines are quite complicated any mods like that will eliminate a 100k warranty on the drive train. Doesn't make sense this guy.


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Blown79ta said:


> Thanks for the info guys. I also think this will be a good way to add oil capacity (almost 2 quarts) to help lower oil temps and increase my oil change intervals. I find it odd that this engine holds just under 5 quarts of oil (4.75 IIRC), sorry I don't have any part numbers but I plan to take some pics of my progress and eventually post them here.


Seeing that people are getting great UOA's from 15,000 mi OCI's (double the factory recommended interval) I don't think any of that is needed. Coming from a guy who can be anal retentive about some stuff that's taking it to a whole new level.


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

Honestly, I'd never use any brand of oil beyond 15k, it's just not worth the risk. Also, if this mod is done the way I'm planning, it can be easily removed before taking it in for warranty work. It's just personal preference adding filtration and capacity.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Blown79ta said:


> Honestly, I'd never use any brand of oil beyond 15k, it's just not worth the risk. Also, if this mod is done the way I'm planning, it can be easily removed before taking it in for warranty work. It's just personal preference adding filtration and capacity.


I don't think it will hurt anything to install it, that's pretty much a given. What are your long term plans for the car? based on my experience with this engine so far, I think it will go quite a few miles with my 15K changes and no mods. I would not be surprised if the engine goes well past 500K (assuming I keep driving it that long).


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

Blown79ta said:


> Honestly, I'd never use any brand of oil beyond 15k, it's just not worth the risk. Also, if this mod is done the way I'm planning, it can be easily removed before taking it in for warranty work. It's just personal preference adding filtration and capacity.


Sounds like a fun project, looking forward to some pictures when you're done.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Blown79ta said:


> Honestly, I'd never use any brand of oil beyond 15k, it's just not worth the risk. Also, if this mod is done the way I'm planning, it can be easily removed before taking it in for warranty work. It's just personal preference adding filtration and capacity.


So for the sake of a free filter you are running the risk of invalidating your warranty? An install that is that easy to remove is just as likely to fail on the road and blow your oil pressure and engine along with it. 

Although a cool project to undertake, I am of the view that rather than increasing the protection of your engine you are actually putting it at risk. 

Thank your uncle for the free filter. Sell it on eBay and split the difference with him. Let your engine run unmolested to survive another day. That's the wiser thing to do IMHO.


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

Thanks KpaxFAQ, I won't be doing this until my next service which is approx 1k away so maybe sometime in March. 

Diesel, I really don't have any long term plans, I just keep my cars for a long time so I figured this would be worth doing.

Tomko, if I hadn't seen first hand what these bypass filters do, I wouldn't bother installing one on my Cruze. These engines are asked to do a lot (breath their own exhaust, push their exhaust through a restrictive dpf, endure higher egts during a regen) all of which wreak havoc on our oil. I change my oil at 4-5k intervals now (been using dealership dexos2 since new) because the oil is too dark for my liking (I know I'm wasting my money). BTW, I can remove the entire bypass filter system (including the -4 an lines and fittings) on my Cummins engine in about 30 minutes and it's been in place for about 10k miles without a single issue. Yes, there's always a risk when you install something like this but if you chose good quality hose, fittings, filters etc. the risk is minimal.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

First Diesel engines make dark oil in about 5 minutes of engine operation. I find it amazing that car/truck owners with little to no experience think they know more than the engineers that built the car and or truck. I find it trying to modify something that isn't even remotely broken. The old saying is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

I wish you much success with your Cruze Diesel. I for one think they are an amazing car!


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

IndyDiesel said:


> First Diesel engines make dark oil in about 5 minutes of engine operation. I find it amazing that car/truck owners with little to no experience think they know more than the engineers that built the car and or truck. I find it trying to modify something that isn't even remotely broken. The old saying is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
> 
> I wish you much success with your Cruze Diesel. I for one think they are an amazing car!


Well said Indy. Tinkering is fun. I learnt a lot by doing that. Mostly by breaking things though. Best to keep that learning for something already broken. 

I'm sure @NickD can add something of value here.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

KpaxFAQ said:


> Sounds like a fun project, looking forward to some pictures when you're done.


Would be a project esp if one was to uses an oil cleaning centrifuge, reports of 50% less engine wear!
Report: 50% Less Engine Wear : Spinner II® Products : High-efficiency lube oil filtration for heavy-duty diesel engines.

You know who makes the fuel filter and oil filter for the Cruze??...
https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/corp/products/oil-filter-systems/

This company also makes... you guessed it OIL CENTRIFUGES:

https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/corp/news/news/newsdetail/?tx_ttnews[tt_news]=771cHash=7901150dd6cae5988c14cb0919c383a6

Its reported that:
The Original producer is Mann+ Hummel used it the first time on the Range Rover Discovery 2.5TD in '93 in Europe with the result to be able to extend the oil drain interval by 100% to 15000km or 9000 miles. This is one of the secrets of fleet management to get a million miles out of your engine. It's a common method to extend the oil drain interval and to clean the inside of the engine. Of course there is a disadvantge: You have to have a sufficient oil drain back.

Benefits : Spinner II® Products : High-efficiency lube oil filtration for heavy-duty diesel engines.
Models and Specs : Spinner II® Products : High-efficiency lube oil filtration for heavy-duty diesel engines.
Amsoil Bypass OR PPE centrifuge? - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

Black Diesel Centrifuge | PA Biodiesel Supply
Waste Oil Filtering, Black Diesel Centrifuge | PA Biodiesel Supply
Oil Pressure Cent. Instruct | CentrifugeForDummies.com


Bypass filters should enhance warranty rather then detract from them! :th_dblthumb2::yahoo::jump:


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

IndyDiesel said:


> First Diesel engines make dark oil in about 5 minutes of engine operation. I find it amazing that car/truck owners with little to no experience think they know more than the engineers that built the car and or truck. I find it trying to modify something that isn't even remotely broken. The old saying is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
> 
> I wish you much success with your Cruze Diesel. I for one think they are an amazing car!


I'd be interested in hearing the details of the guy that had his warranty voided. It was mentioned he had other mods. Was the warranty voided due to those other mods, or due to the filter? The filter wouldn't really affect much of anything if installed correctly. 

15k miles is really weak for a modern diesel on an oil change. Just saying. Even in the light truck world, oil change intervals exceeding 100k miles with bypass filter changes are not uncommon. I can't see a huge benefit with this particular engine, but I can't see a reason they would deny the warranty either. Better filtration and more oil capacity won't hurt anything. 

The "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mantra doesn't apply to modern vehicles. Sorry but that's the cold truth. These vehicles are designed to be disposable and GM's sole liability is the extent of the power TX rain warranty. After that, you're on the hook for all repairs. Anyone who plans on keeping their vehicle longer will be looking at aftermarket lubricants at a minimum. That alone will be plenty, as Diesel and many others are doing, but there are well documented benefits to bypass filtration, especially in diesels. 

I have a bypass filter on my Cruze 1.4T, and have been using it for about 21k miles now. While I have no baseline comparison, my last oil analysis was quite good given my driving conditions and oil change interval. I see it as a cheap way to extend the life of the turbo that would otherwise cost me $650+ to replace. Time will tell if it will actually serve that purpose.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

I am very curious to know how long my turbo will last, given my 15K oil change intervals using stock GM filters. i always let it spool down for a bit after I've been driving, especially when I get home. My house is near the top of a hill and my driveway is uphill. I often boost the turbo all the way up the hill, but let it sit for a while at the top of the driveway before I shut it off. Time will tell.

So far nobody's blown a turbo in one of these that I've heard of, so it's probably a pretty durable unit. I would think the turbo would be the weak link in an engine like this.


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## ssnscruzeeco2015 (Dec 29, 2014)

My interpretation of warranty... could become a rant....

People everywhere are keeping their new cars longer, many of them do not have the tools, real estate, effort or interest to even change the oil at home, which is fair. Manufacturers know this and are extending warrantees not to reflect the better quality of vehicles but to encourage people to purchase their brand and to entice them to bring the car into the dealership shop longer into their ownership, at 100 dollars plus an hour.

I am glad that I am not in that trap or fearful of the almighty warranty risk. My dealership gave me 4 free oil changes, and I did not use them. I am not a "qualified" gearhead, but been turning wrenches and chasing electrical issues since my early teens (long story if you have time), therefore I am confident that any implied damage I do to my vehicle resultant of my modifications, (none of which are pushing the power output limitations) I can repair, if the dealership says no. LOL the whole engine only weights 220 lbs and maybe 3000 dollars to replace plus my time.

Cruze is an average production car for the average driver to be driven average conditions, anywhere in North America and GM has a warranty to match, just long enough to keep you coming to the shop until you get bored of the car and a new one is purchased and the cycle continues. I burn through miles faster than the average driver, therefore my warranty will be long gone before the time is up, and I am into long term ownership for this vehicle, therefore my efforts are to enhance the average engineering / production efforts of GM

I have modified my car for my area, and my driving style, my motivation here is MPG, I have already upgraded my lubricants, coolant, sparkplugs. Modified my AC, air intake, cooling, soon oil filteration and maybe ignition, and a variety of adjustments.

I have one little carrot that my dealership is fully aware of, the cruze was new car #9 from them and I am only 46, I am sure my loyalty is worth a warranty questionable repair or two.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

I drive 15k to 20k miles a year, maybe a little above average. I personally don't have any interest in long Oil Change Intervals, 7500 max for me. For those that drive a lot and want longer intervals that is great, just not for me. I am very comfortable with the car as it is and it isn't broken so I have zero desire to fix something that works well. I have personally came to the conclusion based upon my own experience and education(BS Electrical Engineering). With my driving habits and miles per year I will just keep my oil changed with a GM Oil filter and go along my happy way. When I am confronted with problem on my car I will address it then.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Given the relatively low cost of some of these upgrades to the high cost of some of these replacements, it is often beneficial to consider a proactive approach to maintenance and reliability. For example, I replaced my turbo oil feed line on the 1.4T when I discovered that the redesigned model featured two o-rings instead of one, and a heat shield around the line, while mine was bare. It cost me $26. Mine wasn't broken or leaking, but the design change was not made for no reason. I replaced my valve cover when I discovered a redesigned model had been produced, and will likely purchase a second to have on hand in the event that my current one begins to fail, as it is a common problem on the 1.4T. 

I did not install the bypass filter on my Cruze to extend my drain intervals, although I had hoped it would. I did so mostly to reduce engine wear and improve the longevity of the turbo, which is a $650-$800 repair. The bypass install, from start to finish, cost me around $220 including hardware. Relatively speaking, that's a small price to pay. I cannot justify that cost for anyone else but myself, however, since there is no evidence that it will in fact increase the longevity of my turbo, so time will tell. 

One must weigh these options when considering their own vehicle's maintenance program. Do you wait until you stat sliding in the rain to replace your tires, or do you set a technical depth threshold for when you replace them? I scrapped my OE tires when tread depth neared 4/32"; well above the legal limit but at a depth that TireRack had tested to drastically increase stopping distance in heavy rain. This is just one example. 

It is sometimes financially beneficial to follow a preventive maintenance approach to reduce the likelihood of expensive repairs in the long run.


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

All valid points Extreme, I never run my tires down to nothing but that hasn't anything to do with modifying a car, that's just normal maintenance. If there is a flaw in a design and something comes out to address that my mind is open. But to add filtration and additional capacity to the oil is a lot different than replacing tires. I think there are many that enjoy tinkering and modify their stuff. That's great if people want to do that, I have never done and just don't think it is a good use of my money. we can agree to disagree. :eusa_clap:


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

IndyDiesel said:


> All valid points Extreme, I never run my tires down to nothing but that hasn't anything to do with modifying a car, that's just normal maintenance. If there is a flaw in a design and something comes out to address that my mind is open. But to add filtration and additional capacity to the oil is a lot different than replacing tires. I think there are many that enjoy tinkering and modify their stuff. That's great if people want to do that, I have never done and just don't think it is a good use of my money. we can agree to disagree. :eusa_clap:


That is something we are trying to learn about continually. Another example is that the 1.4T suffers from check ball failures in the intake manifold, and is a $250 replacement. How do we prevent this from happening, and is there a way? 

What I'm getting at is that sometimes, you need to go beyond the manufacturers recommendation for service to ensure a reliably operating vehicle. Take the 5.3 in late 2000s GM trucks with displacement on demand. The piston rings would stick and the engine would burn oil. Following GM's recommendations religiously doesn't solve that problem. 

Then we have direct injection in the 3.6L engines that allows carbon deposits to build up on the valves, that results in cylinder head replacements. 

With respect to the diesel, we are seeing emissions component failures with relatively expensive sensors coming into play. I was just talking to a friend whose CTD had a sensor failure that would cost $450 to replace. 

Simply operating and maintaining the vehicle as the manufacturer intended won't always guarantee reliable operation. The CTD is still in its relative infancy, and people who are taking up high miles are doing so under relatively light and easy driving conditions. The best we can do is understand how the vehicle works to the best of our ability so we can identify potential points of failure and address them before the issue hits. 

This of course doesn't include the bypass filter. I'm just stating this in general terms. I don't believe that, at 7500 mile intervals, the bypass filter is remotely necessary.


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

Well said Xtreme. These types of mods aren't for everyone, but I too like to head off known weaknesses. My Cummins fuel filtration is marginal from the factory (5-7 micron even though an "engineer" designed it). With the injectors being $2500 to replace, I installed a 2 micron filter in line to help the injectors last, cost was $200. Additional filtration is always good. The Amsoil in my Cummins currently has 3k miles (mostly towing miles) and it looks like I just poured it in. Granted it doesn't have a working egr or dpf in place but the point is that it doesn't turn the oil dark after a fresh change like our diesel engines are known for. 

I do agree with the "anti mod" or "don't fix it if it ain't broken" guys about the dealer wanting to void the warranty for any reason. With the addition of anything (even my k&n air filter) just gives them ammunition to argue their point. But, they have to prove that it was the "mod" that caused the problem, which isn't always easy to do. I've owned 10 new cars and can't remember the last time I had warranty work done, just MY thoughts/experience.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Blown79ta said:


> Additional filtration is always good.
> ...
> With the addition of anything (even my k&n air filter) just gives them ammunition to argue their point.


Why? I repeat: why would someone who believes that "additional filtration is always good" use a K&N air filter???


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Tomko said:


> Why? I repeat: why would someone who believes that "additional filtration is always good" use a K&N air filter???


If only they knew...


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

I've put a K&N in just about everything I own, including my hooptie neon that currently has 200k miles and it was installed it with 36k on the odometer, no issues. I think the issue is people don't use these properly (like clean it periodically). I'm sure an engineer somewhere stated they're not good for sensors, the oil contaminates the in coming air etc, but my experience has been nothing but positive. I have 2 of these on a 900hp engine, been in place since 1992, again without issue. Yeah, maybe you should stick with GM oil and filters and keep the old paper air filter in place, they'll definitely work the best for you.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Air Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central

Oil Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Blown79ta said:


> I've put a K&N in just about everything I own, including my hooptie neon that currently has 200k miles and it was installed it with 36k on the odometer, no issues. I think the issue is people don't use these properly (like clean it periodically). I'm sure an engineer somewhere stated they're not good for sensors, the oil contaminates the in coming air etc, but my experience has been nothing but positive. I have 2 of these on a 900hp engine, been in place since 1992, again without issue. Yeah, maybe you should stick with GM oil and filters and keep the old paper air filter in place, they'll definitely work the best for you.


It has nothing to do with the cleaning. I've talked to Dodge cummins truck mechanics that have replaced turbos because of this. The company will never go on the record to say that K&N is causing them, but the last guy I talked to replaced 9 turbos at that time from turbo dusting. One guy never replaced his air filter, one guy didn't install it correctly, and the other 7 had a K&N air filter. They check the filter, and if the intake duct has dust all over it, warranty denied. Read up on "turbo dusting." The vanes of the turbo are slowly sanded down by the dust in the air. It's not a question of IF, but a question of WHEN. 

Furthermore, all of the testing out there demonstrates this is actually happening. The filtration efficiency of K&N filters is just awful. They pass 47x more fine dust than decent cellulose filters do. Furthermore, they clog to restriction points 3x as quickly (meaning they have only 1/3 the dust holding capacity), which means you have to service them more often, and the period during which they actually provide additional airflow is very short as they soon begin to restrict. 

Here's another test, along with what Tomko posted. I can find the original test if you need to see it, showing the awful fine particle efficiency. K&N only advertises coarse particle efficiency. Note: the AMSOIL filter tested is their old oiled design, which they quickly phased out in favor of the design tested in Tomko's post. 

K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)

Your 900hp engines don't get driven 100k-200k miles at that power level, with that filter. Furthermore, how much power those engines are making has absolutely no bearing on the filtration efficiency and capacity of these filters. Zero. On that same note, the anecdotal claim that YOU never had an issue does not guarantee that someone else would not have an issue, and is therefore irrelevant when discussing the technical reasons why these are terrible filters. Lastly is the fact that our OE filters are not in the least bit restrictive, and a K&N filter offers practically nonexistent gains even in the short period while the filter is actually "clean."


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## IndyDiesel (May 24, 2015)

Before extreme tomko posted the debunking he myths testing seems very thorough and was very compelling and the k&n filter just doesn't do the job from that study, wasn't even close.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Blown79ta said:


> I've put a K&N in just about everything I own, including my hooptie neon that currently has 200k miles and it was installed it with 36k on the odometer, no issues. I think the issue is people don't use these properly (like clean it periodically). I'm sure an engineer somewhere stated they're not good for sensors, the oil contaminates the in coming air etc, but my experience has been nothing but positive. I have 2 of these on a 900hp engine, been in place since 1992, again without issue. Yeah, maybe you should stick with GM oil and filters and keep the old paper air filter in place, they'll definitely work the best for you.


I believe you've been lucky, but evidence posted here shows you're pushing your luck. Would you consider ditching the K and N?


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

I had a K&N on my harley frankly because it looks cool as **** and the engine will be around longer than I care to own the bike before the increased wear is a problem for me. 

I would never put one in a motor I was trying to make last and take care of. I thought everyone knew that.


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

Been working a lot of hours, hadn't even looked at a computer. Maybe its luck (more likely its because I'm never on dirt roads or in severe duty situations etc) but all of my experience with K&N has been positive (I run an airaid cai on my dodge). Would I use one if I lived on a dirt road...no. I do clean them regularly and I've never had the "dusting" issue with any vehicle using one (checking the intake tract beyond the filter). 

The turbos on the 6.7 cummins are known for frequent failures. When mine quits, it will be upgraded with a better charger/manifold, not a factory replacement. Have some made it 250k, sure. Have some failed at 30k with all stock hardware in place, yes. Not saying it has never happened, just stating MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, the things I'VE done.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Blown79ta said:


> Been working a lot of hours, hadn't even looked at a computer. Maybe its luck (more likely its because I'm never on dirt roads or in severe duty situations etc) but all of my experience with K&N has been positive (I run an airaid cai on my dodge). Would I use one if I lived on a dirt road...no. I do clean them regularly and I've never had the "dusting" issue with any vehicle using one (checking the intake tract beyond the filter).
> 
> The turbos on the 6.7 cummins are known for frequent failures. When mine quits, it will be upgraded with a better charger/manifold, not a factory replacement. Have some made it 250k, sure. Have some failed at 30k with all stock hardware in place, yes. Not saying it has never happened, just stating MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE, the things I'VE done.


You ignored one critical portion of my post. I did not refer generally to "frequent failures." I referred specifically to turbo dusting. It is the *direct *consequence of excessive dust particles being ingested through the intake system, causing accelerated wear on the turbo vanes that *would not* otherwise have occurred with a filter that had a better filtration efficiency. It is a *well documented*, and *preventable *failure. The number of failures that exist in conjunction with aftermarket intake systems is condemning. 

I don't know why you choose to ignore this information, and ignore the two test results provided above that demonstrate the filtration deficiencies of K&N filters, simply on the basis of personal anecdote. We even had one member here, tecollins1, who used the K&N filter, and when taking it off, used a paper towel to wipe the inside of the intake duct, and collected a visible amount of dust particle. 

Furthermore, I have seen direct consequences of the poor filtration of K&N filters in oil analysis reports, where the silicone levels are higher than expected. Silicone, in this case, comes from dust ingested by the intake system.


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## ssnscruzeeco2015 (Dec 29, 2014)

> We even had one member here, tecollins1, who used the K&N filter, and when taking it off, used a paper towel to wipe the inside of the intake duct, and collected a visible amount of dust particle.
> 
> Furthermore, I have seen direct consequences of the poor filtration of K&N filters in oil analysis reports, where the silicone levels are higher than expected. Silicone, in this case, comes from dust ingested by the intake system.


That dirt on the inside of the intake would have been worth a picture or two.... and that was just the stuff that stuck on the walls of the intake system and not ingested and then some of which would have turned into oil sludge.

When I see this type of filter being widely used by the farming and construction industries then I will be convinced that they are good enough for my engines, one of which is a dust laden tractor backhoe loader.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

ssnscruzeeco2015 said:


> That dirt on the inside of the intake would have been worth a picture or two.... and that was just the stuff that stuck on the walls of the intake system and not ingested and then some of which would have turned into oil sludge.
> 
> When I see this type of filter being widely used by the farming and construction industries then I will be convinced that they are good enough for my engines, one of which is a dust laden tractor backhoe loader.


He did take pictures, and posted them, but I don't remember which thread it was in.

There were pictures on this post, but the links are broken:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1...ter-k-n-sri-intake-post808074.html#post808074


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## Blown79ta (Jan 23, 2016)

Thanks guys, I'll definitely take a longer, in depth look into this issue and may even change these filters out in the future. Are there any documented holset turbo failures due to insufficient air filtration I can read through? 

The one on my bike as well as the two on my hot rod wont be getting changed out either haha.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Blown79ta said:


> Thanks guys, I'll definitely take a longer, in depth look into this issue and may even change these filters out in the future. Are there any documented holset turbo failures due to insufficient air filtration I can read through?
> 
> The one on my bike as well as the two on my hot rod wont be getting changed out either haha.


Just google "turbo dusting." It's more of a long-term problem. The better your air filtration, the longer your turbo will last. The silicone that gets in the oil is abrasive. I don't know that anyone has done a lot of studies on this, but it can't be a good thing, for cylinder walls, piston rings, or any high pressure surfaces.


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## mrbrefast (Aug 9, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> ...
> 
> I have a bypass filter on my Cruze 1.4T, and have been using it for about 21k miles now. While I have no baseline comparison, my last oil analysis was quite good given my driving conditions and oil change interval. I see it as a cheap way to extend the life of the turbo that would otherwise cost me $650+ to replace. Time will tell if it will actually serve that purpose.


Question: do you have pictures of this or a link to how you did it? I have a Mann Provent 200 in my CTD to pull oil out of the intake system (having previously cleaned a VW TDI Intake of the tar build-up, I have no interest in that). I would imagine that this bypass filter (which, as a new Amsoil dealer myself, I would love to get and give a try) would certainly be worth the money to get into the car... if I could find a good spot to plumb it in.

EDIT: I clicked the next Google search result down from this one and found your DIY guide. Given that you know a LOT more about oil than I do, and that diesels (even clean ones like mine) do produce a fair amount of soot, do you think this is a worthwhile addition to the car? I've read that some diesel truck guys report a gain in HP and/or efficiency from the better oil too?


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

mrbrefast said:


> Question: do you have pictures of this or a link to how you did it? I have a Mann Provent 200 in my CTD to pull oil out of the intake system (having previously cleaned a VW TDI Intake of the tar build-up, I have no interest in that). I would imagine that this bypass filter (which, as a new Amsoil dealer myself, I would love to get and give a try) would certainly be worth the money to get into the car... if I could find a good spot to plumb it in.
> 
> EDIT: I clicked the next Google search result down from this one and found your DIY guide. Given that you know a LOT more about oil than I do, and that diesels (even clean ones like mine) do produce a fair amount of soot, do you think this is a worthwhile addition to the car? I've read that some diesel truck guys report a gain in HP and/or efficiency from the better oil too?


How many miles before you had to clean your TDI intake?


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## mrbrefast (Aug 9, 2015)

diesel said:


> How many miles before you had to clean your TDI intake?


Good question. I bought it at 230,000 miles and sold it at close to 270,000 miles - and did the intake about halfway through my ownership. I have no idea if it was ever done before me, but it was PRETTY gunked up:



Detail shot which still doesn't really capture the thickness of the gunk layer:



Luckily, a combination of a wet rag, a compressed air line, and a propane torch...



... means that the oil caught fire and was able to burn itself out of the intake manifold, requiring I carefully knock it after so the re-re-reburned soot fell out, if it hadn't already been burned out.

That many levels of re-re-re-burn is pretty goddamned _metal_, as well (and as scale for the size of those flames):










:grin:

THAT SAID: it was a pain in the ass to take apart, and took a while to get fully clean - and it was a PAIN to take apart.

So: even if this newer system does a better job of purging oil blowby from itself, assuming I keep this Cruze until 300k+ miles as is my plan* I believe, I would like it to be free of any build-up all the way through that period of ownership.

*This plan is contingent on Chevy NOT releasing a stick shift version of the 2017 TD Cruze, and me NOT trading in for it. If I get it, THAT car will get the bypass filter.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

Thanks for the detailed post! I suppose I will be the first one to find out if there are any intake gunking issues on the CTD, assuming I continue to pile the miles on like I have been. I will certainly report it on this forum if that ever happens.


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## Chris Tobin (Feb 23, 2016)

Intake build up like that shown above is more generally from EGR activity more than from something that a bypass filter would help.

A bypass filter is a good thing to help keep the oil clean and extend drain intervals, but I doubt it will help intake carbon buildup.

By the way most modern diesel engines do this to some degree due to the EGR system. I have heard of expensive repairs for it in BMW diesels and they use a composite plastic manifold so it has to be ultrasonic cleaned. I have also seen soot buildup in Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke engines as well, but never to the degree I have seen with the VWs or heard about with the BMWs. We need to do the manifold in my son's 2002 TDI too...


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

mrbrefast said:


> Question: do you have pictures of this or a link to how you did it? I have a Mann Provent 200 in my CTD to pull oil out of the intake system (having previously cleaned a VW TDI Intake of the tar build-up, I have no interest in that). I would imagine that this bypass filter (which, as a new Amsoil dealer myself, I would love to get and give a try) would certainly be worth the money to get into the car... if I could find a good spot to plumb it in.
> 
> EDIT: I clicked the next Google search result down from this one and found your DIY guide. Given that you know a LOT more about oil than I do, and that diesels (even clean ones like mine) do produce a fair amount of soot, do you think this is a worthwhile addition to the car? I've read that some diesel truck guys report a gain in HP and/or efficiency from the better oil too?


I do not believe the that the drain intervals that GM recommends for the CTD benefit from a bypass filter, on that metric alone. I am not convinced that it provides longevity benefits yet given the relatively light duty conditions a diesel turbo experiences compared to the gasoline turbo counterparts. That being said, if you drive a lot and want to extend your drain intervals, a bypass filter will go a long way in achieving that. That is, if you can fit the filter somewhere in that engine bay. The actual plumbing is not that big of a deal. It's fitting the big filter somewhere that is. 



Chris Tobin said:


> Intake build up like that shown above is more generally from EGR activity more than from something that a bypass filter would help.
> 
> A bypass filter is a good thing to help keep the oil clean and extend drain intervals, but I doubt it will help intake carbon buildup.
> 
> By the way most modern diesel engines do this to some degree due to the EGR system. I have heard of expensive repairs for it in BMW diesels and they use a composite plastic manifold so it has to be ultrasonic cleaned. I have also seen soot buildup in Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke engines as well, but never to the degree I have seen with the VWs or heard about with the BMWs. We need to do the manifold in my son's 2002 TDI too...


I agree with Chris. A bypass filter will not help intake carbon buildup. A good oil might due to a lower volatility, and keeping your injectors clean so there is a more complete fuel burn would help as well.


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## John Richard (Oct 15, 2015)

The Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-30 has stock number AELQT and the 5W-40 has stock number EFMQT and both are 
ACEA A3 and Dexos 2 approved. The manual for the 2015 recommends that we use the 5W-30 but does state that one can use the 5W-40 in more extreme conditions. I am presently using the 5W-40 but may switch to the 5W-30 now that is Dexos 2 approved, as in Canada, my extreme weather tends to be more on the cold side than the hot side. Hope this helps.

As for filters, I have heard that the GM oil filter is not too bad, but if one wants to go premium WIX makes filters for the Cruze diesel. Amsoil is not co-operating yet. Oil - WIX WL10021, Air - WIX 49739 and Cabin Air - WIX 24590, I got these right from the Wix online site.


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## mrbrefast (Aug 9, 2015)

diesel said:


> Thanks for the detailed post! I suppose I will be the first one to find out if there are any intake gunking issues on the CTD, assuming I continue to pile the miles on like I have been. I will certainly report it on this forum if that ever happens.


No problem. Given that I have no idea if/when the cleaning was ever done on my TDI and I only got it with 230,000 miles on it... you may be good for a while yet to come. As I said though: the oil catch can install I did is worth it in my book as I do not ever have to clean that gunk out of this car.



Chris Tobin said:


> Intake build up like that shown above is more generally from EGR activity more than from something that a bypass filter would help.
> 
> A bypass filter is a good thing to help keep the oil clean and extend drain intervals, but I doubt it will help intake carbon buildup.
> 
> By the way most modern diesel engines do this to some degree due to the EGR system. I have heard of expensive repairs for it in BMW diesels and they use a composite plastic manifold so it has to be ultrasonic cleaned. I have also seen soot buildup in Duramax, Cummins and Power Stroke engines as well, but never to the degree I have seen with the VWs or heard about with the BMWs. We need to do the manifold in my son's 2002 TDI too...


Sorry if I was unclear, I know the EGR was the problem (hence I deleted it on that TDI after the intake cleaning) - the bypass filter interests me less for extended intervals and more in reducing any and all engine wear. As you likely saw in my posting, the burning method is really the easiest way to clean the intake manifold. Be _**SURE**_ to use a very wet rag over the EGR side of it to prevent the innards from melting from the heat.



XtremeRevolution said:


> I do not believe the that the drain intervals that GM recommends for the CTD benefit from a bypass filter, on that metric alone. I am not convinced that it provides longevity benefits yet given the relatively light duty conditions a diesel turbo experiences compared to the gasoline turbo counterparts. That being said, if you drive a lot and want to extend your drain intervals, a bypass filter will go a long way in achieving that. That is, if you can fit the filter somewhere in that engine bay. The actual plumbing is not that big of a deal. It's fitting the big filter somewhere that is....


Good to know. Honestly, I bet the bypass filter COULD fit easily into the place on the passenger's side where I mounted the Mann ProVent. That option, for me however, is now closed.


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## BlueTopaz (Aug 25, 2012)

John Richard said:


> The Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-30 has stock number AELQT and the *5W-40 has stock number EFMQT* and both are
> ACEA A3 and Dexos 2 approved. The manual for the 2015 recommends that we use the 5W-30 but does state that one can use the 5W-40 in more extreme conditions. I am presently using the 5W-40 but may switch to the 5W-30 now that is Dexos 2 approved, as in Canada, my extreme weather tends to be more on the cold side than the hot side. Hope this helps.
> 
> As for filters, I have heard that the GM oil filter is not too bad, but if one wants to go premium WIX makes filters for the Cruze diesel. Amsoil is not co-operating yet. Oil - WIX WL10021, Air - WIX 49739 and Cabin Air - WIX 24590, I got these right from the Wix online site.


Just wanted to point out that EFMQT 5w-40 does not meet the dexos2 specification per AMSOIL web site.


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## diesel (Jun 8, 2013)

mrbrefast said:


> - the bypass filter interests me less for extended intervals and more in reducing any and all engine wear.


I would think something like this won't make much of a difference since most engine wear happens on startup. I would think something that pre-oils the engine before you start it would be the way to go to achieve that goal. And also, I would bet you that I can get over 1,000,000 miles out of this engine fully stock with my 15K mile oil changes and stock OEM filters. Whether I put that many miles on it remains to be seen, but given that I have zero oil consumption after 160K miles, it seems as if this trend will continue.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

BlueTopaz said:


> Just wanted to point out that EFMQT 5w-40 does not meet the dexos2 specification per AMSOIL web site.


But it is stated that the AFL 5W-40 does meet dexos2.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3395.pdf

And the local Big R in my area stocks it on the shelf! :grin:


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## MonChatNinja (Oct 16, 2019)

I've been looking to get a bypass oil filter installed too I was told by the parts dep. that the 2.0 Diesel engine uses a oil sending unit with M16X1.5 threads. You can buy a T fitting to T-off that sending unit and supply oil pressure to a bypass oil filter; but how to return the oil and where to mount the filter is a different story. How do you plan to return the oil?


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## MonChatNinja (Oct 16, 2019)

MonChatNinja said:


> I've been looking to get a bypass oil filter installed too I was told by the parts dep. that the 2.0 Diesel engine uses a oil sending unit with M16X1.5 threads. You can buy a T fitting to T-off that sending unit and supply oil pressure to a bypass oil filter; but how to return the oil and where to mount the filter is a different story. How do you plan to return the oil?


I found the T-fitting that our mechanic recommended, still confirming if it fits https://www.lmaautoparts.co.uk/Motorsport/Gauges_Gauge_Fittings_Pipelines/T_Pieces?product_id=326


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## Yes (10 mo ago)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I'd be interested in hearing the details of the guy that had his warranty voided. It was mentioned he had other mods. Was the warranty voided due to those other mods, or due to the filter? The filter wouldn't really affect much of anything if installed correctly.
> 
> 15k miles is really weak for a modern diesel on an oil change. Just saying. Even in the light truck world, oil change intervals exceeding 100k miles with bypass filter changes are not uncommon. I can't see a huge benefit with this particular engine, but I can't see a reason they would deny the warranty either. Better filtration and more oil capacity won't hurt anything.
> 
> ...


Did it help?


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## Yes (10 mo ago)

diesel said:


> I would think something like this won't make much of a difference since most engine wear happens on startup. I would think something that pre-oils the engine before you start it would be the way to go to achieve that goal. And also, I would bet you that I can get over 1,000,000 miles out of this engine fully stock with my 15K mile oil changes and stock OEM filters. Whether I put that many miles on it remains to be seen, but given that I have zero oil consumption after 160K miles, it seems as if this trend will continue.


Did it last?


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