# Stabilitrack/abs trouble



## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

bigluke said:


> Hi. I have a 2014 diesel bought in sept 2013. Long time didn't posted here. Seems that my diesel was running fine for long time. Perhaps having issues now with the stabiltrack and abs messages on the DIC also had once the window down and up reset message and once the stability control message. Heard about the negative cable recall but mine has the new cable and it's not corroded and also tightened up all positive and ground connections. Tried to run some 3 new negative connections from the battery post to the body. But the problem persists. Battery showing 14.7V on the DIC when driving. Had some weird stuff going on past week, wipers working at half speed resolved by them selfes after 5 min and the blower fan running at half speed also. These two didn't came back after I put the 3 new negative wires. My battery is 6 years old but never had starting issues at all. Maybe someone could help me out with this issue.
> Thanks


After 6 years, your battery is on borrowed time. That is an amazingly long time, you’ve done well. 

With all those symptoms combined with the battery age, I strongly recommend replacing it as it’s likely the source of your electrical gremlins. 

Be sure to get good quality AGM battery.

More info here:

https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/64-...ussion/155881-factory-battery-replaced-8.html


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## bigluke (Aug 18, 2013)

Rivergoer said:


> bigluke said:
> 
> 
> > Hi. I have a 2014 diesel bought in sept 2013. Long time didn't posted here. Seems that my diesel was running fine for long time. Perhaps having issues now with the stabiltrack and abs messages on the DIC also had once the window down and up reset message and once the stability control message. Heard about the negative cable recall but mine has the new cable and it's not corroded and also tightened up all positive and ground connections. Tried to run some 3 new negative connections from the battery post to the body. But the problem persists. Battery showing 14.7V on the DIC when driving. Had some weird stuff going on past week, wipers working at half speed resolved by them selfes after 5 min and the blower fan running at half speed also. These two didn't came back after I put the 3 new negative wires. My battery is 6 years old but never had starting issues at all. Maybe someone could help me out with this issue.
> ...


I'm looking to replace the battery and saw a Energizer AGM R94 under 300$ at Costco. It's the 850CA. Don't know if it's a good choice. They're pricey and don't want to go wrong. Besides the battery, because on other posts some people replaced the battery and still have the stabilitrak messages what should I look for. The abs, speed and yaw sensors has to be checked at the dealer so just trying to save some money before I drop the car at the dealer. Heard people spending hundreds before solving this issue.


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## bigluke (Aug 18, 2013)

Also does someone know if the stock battery can be charged with a regular battery charger. I would like to try it before buying a new one. This way when fully charged overnight if it clears all my DIC messages I could be sure that this was the problem. Thanks again for your replies.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

If you have a friend or relative with a Sams Club membership, the Duracell AGM 94 is an excellent choice and much more affordable.

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/auto-grp-94r-h7-agm-36-mo-free/prod9510086.ip?mobiledetect=false


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

your abs and stabilitrack are the same problem

you have a abs problem, bad sensor or a wire....

abs out of whack puts the stabilitrack out of whack, it needs data from the abs sensor to work...its not a battery issue


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

Is your battery staying constantly at 14.7 while driving or is it going down to around 12.2 or so then up again? If it stays at 14.7 for a whole drive(say 1/2 hr) then your battery is probably toast.6 yrs. is a lot longer than most others have gotten out of theirs.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

6 years is definitely a very long time for these factory batteries. I went just short of 5 years/100k miles, and I think I was one of the longest runs anyone got out of their factory battery. 

Whether it's related or not is hard to say. Your encountering the wiper, window, and HVAC fan issues would seem to point that direction, and would warrant replacing the battery regardless of whether the ABS/Stabilitrac issues are related to it. 

Replace the battery first, then you've at least narrowed the search. Those messages do have a related Cxxxx code stored in the computer that could point you to the problem, if it's not just an electrical glitch. You'd need a scanner that has the ability to access ABS/SRS codes to get them, though.


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## bigluke (Aug 18, 2013)

I know my battery doesn't want to die. Checked yesterday on my daily commute and the voltage cycles between 12.2V and 14.7V. It's keeping the charge well at 12.6V overnight. I'm driving 130 miles daily to work and back home so that seems to keep the battery well maintained for those 6 years. My scanner doesn't read the abs codes so I took an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow. I'll post after what the problem was. Thanks


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

[h=1]Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable[/h]
[h=1]Cruze Battery Upgrade Options[/h]
[h=1]HOW TO: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit[/h]
[h=1]Gen1 Cruze Big 3 Kits[/h]


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

bigluke said:


> Also does someone know if the stock battery can be charged with a regular battery charger. I would like to try it before buying a new one. This way when fully charged overnight if it clears all my DIC messages I could be sure that this was the problem. Thanks again for your replies.


It can be if the charger is microprocessor controlled. If it's an old fashioned charger that just has the amp setting and a needle, you have to be very careful with them so it doesn't overcharge. No

If you don't have a lot of spare cash you can pick up a MP controlled 1.5 amp maintainer at Walmart for like 20 bucks. They will charge it's just slower.


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## oreo382 (Sep 17, 2014)

Our work van was a chevy and on a trip we had all kinds of service stabiltrack,door locks going up and down etc.Turned out it was a bad cable connection under the driver's seat.As far as regular charger,if it has a 2 amp setting I think you would be ok charging your battery at that setting. I remember reading a similar question posted to a battery manufacturer (think it was odyssey but not 100% sure) and they said the 2 amp setting on a regular charger was fine.You could probably google it to confirm.


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## bigluke (Aug 18, 2013)

Finally it was a faulty bearing. 450$ parts and labour. Since I was there done the brakes also so it tripled the bill. Thanks


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

bigluke said:


> I know my battery doesn't want to die. Checked yesterday on my daily commute and the voltage cycles between 12.2V and 14.7V. It's keeping the charge well at 12.6V overnight. I'm driving 130 miles daily to work and back home so that seems to keep the battery well maintained for those 6 years. My scanner doesn't read the abs codes so I took an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow. I'll post after what the problem was. Thanks


When I replaced mine at 5yr/100k, I was confident I could get another summer out of it before replacing, but I already had it out for another job, so decided to pull the trigger early. Still showed great numbers on the DIC, but it was starting to turn over a couple extra times before starting, so I just threw a new one in.


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

Blasirl said:


> *Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable*
> 
> 
> *Cruze Battery Upgrade Options*
> ...


The battery upgrade thread doesn't really apply, since the Diesels come from the factory with the largest size the tray can accommodate.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

bigluke said:


> Finally it was a faulty bearing. 450$ parts and labour. Since I was there done the brakes also so it tripled the bill. Thanks


I was coming back here to post just that. I forget to add that yesterday. I had my wheel bearing and knock sensor changed just a few weeks ago. Seem like a new car.




revjpeterson said:


> The battery upgrade thread doesn't really apply, since the Diesels come from the factory with the largest size the tray can accommodate.


I did not even catch that this was in the diesel forum. Really the only thing that applied then was the cable and I think he had already changed that. The battery upgrade is standard on the diesel.

Thanks for the heads up on the big three though.


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