# Ahiru's Cruze build



## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

The project should get underway this week. My 4 channel amp should arrive tomorrow, MB Quart Fx4.50 and my mono block amp Fx1.1000 to power the single sub, 12" kicker L7. I have my mb quart 6.25's for the front and rear doors, some nice titanium tweeters for the highs. While I'm waiting for snail mail, I got a auto dimming mirror, man more drama on this thing! Got a electrician friend looking into a cleaver wire splice solution. So while I wait on all that I grabbed a heat gun and de badged the eco. But soon the stereo goes In!


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

keep us updated on your install with lots of photos!


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Sweet, another audio build! Looking forward to seeing the results. Make sure to take lots of pictures.

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Well so far, i have bought all the stereo equipment, the last of it comes in this week, finally! so next weekend will be massive work. 
But i have done smaller mods up to this point...

1. White bow ties on a white cruze looks sweet - DONE
2. de badged the eco this weekend. - DONE
3. bought a mod that lets me put my windows up and down via the remote. -DONE
4. did my auto dimming mirror upgrade! -DONE
5. should have my shark fin cover this week as well!
6. Stereo is this weekend!
7. the big 3 upgrade.
8. gotta find a good tint shop in Omaha area.

next after all that will be engine upgrades, most likely starting with a beefed up altinater 
new cars are so much fun!


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Ahiru said:


> Well so far, i have bought all the stereo equipment, the last of it comes in this week, finally! so next weekend will be massive work.
> But i have done smaller mods up to this point...
> 
> 1. White bow ties on a white cruze looks sweet - DONE
> ...


Just so you're aware, we have a 140-amp alternator, which reacts to dynamic load demands. Basically, the car will shut off the alternator to save fuel, allowing the battery to be slowly depleted, after which the alternator would fire back up. This is done to improve fuel economy, so consider that a replacement lacking that ability would likely reduce fuel economy. 

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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

I do not read another battery on that list , and battery isolator ..just a thought.your money your choice..


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

a battery upgrade is on my list as well. More than likely before winter comes back around. the last piece of the stereo is being delivered tomorrow. I need to get me some carpet for the amp rack other than that, just gotta make it to the weekend, only 1200 miles til i'm back at home!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Everything is in the trunk ready to go to my friends garage for install! ya i'm one of those poor bastages that has on street parking =( 
pics to come as soon as we get started.


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## blackonblack (Feb 22, 2013)

standing by for pics...


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

That is one cool cat !


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

<-- Tweeter being replaced 
i have more pics, my phone just is not cooperating.

man, what went right yesterday, lol! we got the door speakers in, tweeters were so much fun to wire!
we got the 4 gauge ran, Pac installed, RCA and remote wire. but i may have to redo it all! lots of noise. I knew i should have run the RCA's to the passenger side. Oh and my door chimes and turn signals are MEGA loud through my rear speakers. Thats gotta be fixed!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

<--- Front and back doors ready for new speakers. not too hard to replace with the proper mounting inserts. Crutchfield was best priced.






<--- Front door speaker closer look. 






<--- 4 awg power wire on the battery


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

NO! my car i not pink inside, lol that 1st pic was near sunset or something looks neat but no!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

redid the ground, that took care of alot of the noise! adjusted the amp down a bit, that killed the rest of the noise! wired the mono block amp. nothing looks good right now. ended up putting the amps on the back of the seats. ill take pictures of the final amp/sub clean up. right now, it looks like a bird nest. i need to trim up some trunk cover for ground wires, tuck the excess wires and rca tie them neatly up. just clean it up.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Can you show me where you grounded your amp?


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I used a self tapping bolt and washer, and put the ground just under the floor mat, behind the seat near the driver side wheel well. I did this to ensure a soild ground. I used a bolt on the seat the 1st time, wasnt a good ground at all. if you look under the car its just above the muffler.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Yeah I did the same thing lol


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Just put new mid bass drivers in my front doors

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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I agree with brian - incredible cat.


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## MjC (Dec 23, 2012)

obermd said:


> I agree with brian - incredible cat.


looks like that cat is trying to make a dunk like in the NBA replays
cat got hops heehee


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

The white bowtie looks nice.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Did my shark fin tonight, easy as pie! 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Oh and I picked up a scandisc 32gig cruzer flash drive at best buy for 20 bucks. 7000-8000 songs... **** I miss napster now. 
It's the tiny one so I can't bump this one! 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Added nitrogen to my tires... So far no difference at all in mpg, I'll give it a few weeks then we might see results. 

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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> Added nitrogen to my tires... So far no difference at all in mpg, I'll give it a few weeks then we might see results.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


I remember a huge thread discussing nitrogen vs. normal air, conclusion was unless you're tracking your car or get it for free, its a waste.

Otherwise great build, its coming along nicely.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Adding a photo of the amps while I was adjusting the levels. 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Going to install a grill on my sub today as well. 

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> Adding a photo of the amps while I was adjusting the levels.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


How much does that big one weight and how did you mount it like that.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

The big amp is 15 pounds, I put rubber spacers under the amp for air flow and drilled pilot holes, used sheet metal screws to hold it in place. 

Here is my new metal sub grill installed, I may paint it later. Just needed it on there to protect the L7.

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Nice to see someone with brains posting. I agree the wiring looks horrible with the seat folded down. Guess all that extra loose wiring couldn't possible be slack so they don't come loose when you fold the seat down. Hey but thanks for trolling! If you look for the picture of the seat in its upright position it's a lot cleaner.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> Nice to see someone with brains posting. I agree the wiring looks horrible with the seat folded down. Guess all that extra loose wiring couldn't possible be slack so they don't come loose when you fold the seat down. Hey but thanks for trolling! If you look for the picture of the seat in its upright position it's a lot cleaner.


He doesn't mean the slacking cables, he's referring to your lack of wire ties, and the one wire that stretches and barely reaches your small amp on your single seat to the other side of the car, which by the way is a stupid thing to do if you end up with someone trying to fold that single seat down, and pulling/ripping your wire out which can destroy your wire/connector.

Get some zip ties, or electric tape; its cheap, and it does wonder look wise.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

It's still a work I'm progress, I only have a few hours a weekend to work on it. I don't mind criticism, but screw the guy who's only input is that's horrible. I put my work out there to get help and ideas not to show off. I've asked questions and have been seeking advise. I am no pro installer and am learning as I go, but again screw you if your only input is that horrible. I thank you for your input smurf and I have fixed that short wire. Funny thing when I went to put that small remote wire in... I ran out of speaker wire, that was all I had in my basement that I could find.


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

He's been warned.

You could also try convoluted tubing. worked wonders for the back of my workstation.

The rest is looking good.

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I just got back from menards an got some wire loom, that should protect the wires. Looking competition isn't my plan, but i do need it to last. So if proper protection makes it look better so be it.


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## titan2363 (Apr 26, 2013)

<span style="font-family:arial black;">wasn't trying to be rude sorry bout that...I've been doing custom stereo/alarm remote start installs professionally for 8 years and just look at things in a different view I guess...you should mount the amps to the seat backs and then run all of your wiring under the carpet on the seat and pop them out at there respective connection...otherwise great job I just picked my 2013 cruze up and have been trolling around the forum seeing what people are doing to try and get some ideas for which route I wanna go...if anyone needs any stereo/fab/electrical help just shoot me a pm</span>


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## titan2363 (Apr 26, 2013)

Double post...sorry about the no punctuation on the last post kinda hard to read


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## spacey_stacey75 (Apr 12, 2013)

I think this is great, did you add this to your factory head unit? how did you wire it in to the head unit. I have an MTX amp and 2- 12" subs I'm dying to install but I want to use my factory stereo. I have no clue how to do this--which is why I haven't. Found a car audio place that said they would do it for $125, wired included.....is this a good deal? I don't have any of the wires as they were in my cobalt when I traded it in. 
What do you guys think?


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I used Crutchfield and got a PAC that turns speaker wires into rca outs, I got a 4 channel PAC. Had a friend help me do the pac right, he soldered each one then shrink wrapped the wires. Took him about an hour. I ran the 4awg power wire while he did that. I think 125 is a good price depending on quality of wires. Pure copper costs. Extreme revolution can best tell you about why.


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## spacey_stacey75 (Apr 12, 2013)

Not sure how they were gonna do it, or what wires they were gonna use. I'll have to find out. Thanks for the info though, being a girl makes getting cheap-low quality supplies a good possibility. I like to have all the information possible so I know what I'm talking about and what I need. Thanks again!!!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Did a lot of clean up work today. 
































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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I removed the back seat, ran wires under the carpet, shortened some wires, put them into the plastic wire tube to protect them. I need more to finish but it does look better now. Live and learn, and next week it gets tinted! 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I still have an electric hum in the system and I did some reading... Might be my ground block. The 2 amps have the same ground right now and it is a little long. I may remove the ground block and ground each amp separately. This should shorten each ground and hopefully rid me of the Humm! I really hope it works, I don't want to install an install line noise filter or a power filter if I don't have too. 

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## titan2363 (Apr 26, 2013)

Both amps should have there own separate ground, make sure that any paint is scraped away and that it's bare metal. Signal wires should be ran opposite of any power. If its still there you can try a ground loop isolator


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

I've tried half a dozen different things to get rid of the hum/whine and no go.


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## titan2363 (Apr 26, 2013)

Would love to see a pic when your done!!! I've decided I'm going to fiberglass a box for one 10" sub into the wall on the left side of the trunk where it dips in so it has a stealth type look and I don't lose any trunk space. I would like to flush it in the floor but don't wanna lose my spare tire...I'm gonna do a write up for everyone once I start it prob this weekend


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I've been on the road all week, should land back home this afternoon. I've spent most of the week in North west Nebraska, sat through a snow storm that was fun for may 1st! Oh well, car goes to the tint shop in the morning. Getting 3M tint, can't remember off the top of my head, it's 70-90% heat reduction. To me that's more important than the darkness of the tint. I will be getting as dark as legally possible. Not sure when the law is here in Nebraska. 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Tint is done... 














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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Did my tail lights today... 


























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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Lit up at night... 








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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

Nice build!! On a side note, I see your sig and raise you a dunk:


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Love crazy cat videos! 

Did my side markers this morning... 















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## goinovr (May 6, 2013)

what'd you use on your markers?


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## goinovr (May 6, 2013)

Smurfenstein said:


> Nice build!! On a side note, I see your sig and raise you a dunk:


this needs to be on imgur. haha


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I used nightshade and clear coat. 
The how too:

1. Use 2000 grit sand paper and wet sand lightly. It should just look dull, not scratched up.

2. clean with alcohol or mineral spirits. Wipe dry with a lint free cloth. 

3. Use nightshade liquid tint, 1 to 3 coats. About 15 mins between coats. Let dry 2 hours. 

4. Lightly wet sand again, to fix bubbles and runs or imperfections. Key is lightly, careful near the edges. The paints thinner near the edges. 

5. 3 coats or more of clear coat. This will make it shiny and protect the tint. Let dry 1 to 2 hours, read the can! 

6. Lightly wet sand again, to fix bubbles and runs or imperfections. Key is lightly, careful near the edges. The paints thinner near the edges.

7. Last step, get some polishing compound, it's next to the car wax at any automotive store. Rub it in good, wipe the compound off BEFORE it dries. Then put it back on your car. 

If you mess up use paint thinner and steel wool and start over.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

My car when I started... 







And the car now... 








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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I forgot to post a picture with the side markers on. 














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## goinovr (May 6, 2013)

Thanks.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I am still chasing that **** Hiss sound. It's down to only when I step on the brake...GRRRR!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Noise problem resolved... don't laugh, it worked!

the noise was from electrical bleed into the PAC, pre RCA 

we foil wrapped the PAC to shield the radio waves from it. crazy but it worked.


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

Ahiru said:


> Noise problem resolved... don't laugh, it worked!
> 
> the noise was from electrical bleed into the PAC, pre RCA
> 
> we foil wrapped the PAC to shield the radio waves from it. crazy but it worked.


Not crazy.

Cables that are shielded is just simply wrapped in foil under the PVC ajcketing lol.


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> Noise problem resolved... don't laugh, it worked!
> 
> the noise was from electrical bleed into the PAC, pre RCA
> 
> we foil wrapped the PAC to shield the radio waves from it. crazy but it worked.


hmmm got pics lol
or can you explain the whole process?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

tecollins1 said:


> hmmm got pics lol
> or can you explain the whole process?


Ever wrapped something to put on the BBQ to cook? 

Same concept. 

Here are some tips for using aluminum foil:

Aluminum Foil Hat


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Ever wrapped something to put on the BBQ to cook?
> 
> Same concept.
> 
> ...


.......Thanks 
that was a hard concept for me to grasp 
JK JK lol


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Foil didn't work for me.
Did three layers and no difference.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

You can try grounding the foil as well. Extend it to a bolt and tighten the foil under it. Has to be a bolt on the frame.


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## EcoDave (Mar 7, 2013)

tecollins1 said:


> Foil didn't work for me.
> Did three layers and no difference.
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com App


For me, Since the buzzing sound was only coming from the left tweeter , instead of opening up the whole dash,
First I decided to just wrap the left side crossover.

When I opened up the panel, it hit me when I saw it. The Crossover was sitting right on top of the Power cable that was going to the Amps. 

I wrapped it up in a single sheet and then turned on the car.... Buzzing/Hiss completely gone!!! :eusa_clap:ccasion14: :th_coolio: :signs015: :goodjob:

Terry C, Did you try wrapping your crossovers??


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Today i took my bass remote and took it out of its case, and relocated it into the center console. 







this part was easy... I used double sided weather stripping to secure the board to the outside of the bucket.







drilled a hole just big enough for the knob to fit through and rotate properly. Then a smaller hole for the LED







Tested it out of the car...







The fun part was getting the USB and AUX plugs unplugged! took a bit to figure out how to dismantle the rear console to run the wires under the carpet.
And the final product... I am so happy the knob and the center console are dang near the same color!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I'm thinking of adding a HUD to the car, i just need to find a good way of doing this. not sure if I'm going to find an old Grand Prix or if I'm going to try an OEM product.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> Today i took my bass remote and took it out of its case, and relocated it into the center console.
> View attachment 14715
> 
> this part was easy... I used double sided weather stripping to secure the board to the outside of the bucket.
> ...


I'm stealing this idea is that cool lol love it.

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Ordered a new center dash lid today. im gonna make a mold and set it up as a cellphone holder and run USB power through it. should be a fun project. I might even put in a solar charger for a spare cellphone battery. waiting on parts ...


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## APCruze (Mar 7, 2013)

Ahiru said:


> Today i took my bass remote and took it out of its case, and relocated it into the center console.
> View attachment 14715
> 
> this part was easy... I used double sided weather stripping to secure the board to the outside of the bucket.
> ...


Any suggestions on getting the USB and 3.5mm cables disconected, I too am stealing this great Idea but had troubles getting the cables to come apart. any help would be greatly appreciated...


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Both cables are a pain to get to, I went through the parking brake to unplug them. AlI can say is take your time. Once you get them unplugged you'll discover they are wire tied to be shorter. You'll understand when ya go to put it back together! 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Going to be taking out my mono block amp. it works perfectly, but ill be changing to 2 epic 8's in a few months so i needed a 1000w @ 2 ohm stable amp. 
i found a purdy amp to swap out. it will push my L7 to its full potential with 1500w @ 1 Ohm! AND still pound the two Epics when i switch without ever getting warm!




















**FEATURES**

US AMPS MERLIN2 CLASS D MD-2D 
RMS 550W x 1 @ 4ohms
RMS 1000W x 1 @ 2ohms
RMS 1500W x 1 @ 1ohm 
Low-Pass High-Pass : 40HZ-250HZ -24db/Oct
Frequency Response: 20Hz to 20KHz +/- 1.0 dB
Butterworth crossovers!
platinum terminals


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

My new amp is a power *****, I am looking to get a 2nd battery and upgrade the big 3 right quick. I figure I can keep the 4awg I have running to the battery now, add in a 2 deep cycle, probably a stinger red or yellow top, then have the 1/0 awg come off the 2nd battery to the amps. Any thoughts or suggestions out there? Not sure how many even look at my post. 

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> My new amp is a power *****, I am looking to get a 2nd battery and upgrade the big 3 right quick. I figure I can keep the 4awg I have running to the battery now, add in a 2 deep cycle, probably a stinger red or yellow top, then have the 1/0 awg come off the 2nd battery to the amps. Any thoughts or suggestions out there? Not sure how many even look at my post.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


I read lol I would definitely upgrade yout big three I did lol I also ran 1/0 gauge wire from my battery to my amp and 1/0 gaughe ground wire I would definitely think about that over your 4 gauge.

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

The 4awg between batteries should be more than enough. I might upgrade it later, copper is expensive, so I may wait on that upgrade. Battery will run me about $200, wires, new blocks, fuses. Oh and someone that knows how to wire it. I'm not gonna solo this part. I want it done right the 1st time! I was shocked to find 12awg as my cars ground wire. Really GM, 12AWG? 

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Ahiru said:


> The 4awg between batteries should be more than enough. I might upgrade it later, copper is expensive, so I may wait on that upgrade. Battery will run me about $200, wires, new blocks, fuses. Oh and someone that knows how to wire it. I'm not gonna solo this part. I want it done right the 1st time! I was shocked to find 12awg as my cars ground wire. Really GM, 12AWG?
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


I'm hitting pretty hard you should check my video out in my build thread lol I ran all my wires under my carpet all the way I am going to be replacing my front bettery real soon then adding a battery in the trunk I almost die driving down the road.

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

going to be installing my 2nd battery this weekend. that battery changes how things are wired, need more fuses, and can use 1/0 awg and the nice thing is the battery becomes its own distribution block. I liked my MB Quart amp, but this US AMP is a HEAVY MONSTER! oh and the amps feet are not plastic, lol they are metal! I was so worried the mb quart amp was gonna melt off the screws holding it down! hehe!


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Real life delayed my battery install. It's going in this weekend! Kinetic 2400 for the win!








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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

The battery is in, dam thing weighs 70lbs! Put it in a RV battery tray that has a top with multiple wire out ports. I'll toss pics up later. 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

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A few pictures of the battery and new amp installed.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I was so tired of chasing the buzzing sound, so today I yanked out the cheap plastic crappy PAC and got a nice Audiocontrol LC6i. Let me just say WOW! It cost way more than the pac but gave me 6 channels to work with. Has multiple ground options, so many more options for configuring.








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## jstoner22 (Aug 21, 2012)

Audiocontrol has always made top end, quality gear. You can't go wrong with their products. Good choice.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I love this thing, the buzz is 100% gone from my system! Oh, and my system has never sounded so clean. My mids and highs were great before, now it's like I'm in the front row. 
This LC6i and my Kinetic 2400, have truly upped my systems performance. 

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Not sure if you have seen this informational vid on the lc6i.
http://youtu.be/2UJ-29Nmz5I

Ill be getting one soon.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I can testify the LC6i does what it claims, my system is balanced and has never sounded cleaner. I thought I was going to have to buy a after market deck to clean up the pre outs. Unfortunately it's not cheap, but in this case I think you get what you pay for. 

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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

Where did you mount it at?


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

Under the glove box. I wanted a location I could get to for future adjustments. I don't have kids so I'm not too worried about it getting kicked or messed with. One thing to note, read the instructions, they wrote them with a sense of humor. It was informative and funny! 

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## spry (Sep 23, 2012)

Ahiru said:


> Under the glove box. I wanted a location I could get to for future adjustments. I don't have kids so I'm not too worried about it getting kicked or messed with. One thing to note, read the instructions, they wrote them with a sense of humor. It was informative and funny!
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


How does the ease of installation of this compare to the PAC?


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## tecollins1 (Nov 6, 2011)

spry said:


> How does the ease of installation of this compare to the PAC?


You would need to cut and splice 4 pairs of speaker wire (8 total) and extend them from the harness to the lc6i.

The lc6 still needs a power and a ground source as well
It might have a auto sensing feature that can turn on the unit without a remote wire.(remote wire tells it when to turn on or off) but if not you will need to run that as well.

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## spry (Sep 23, 2012)

tecollins1 said:


> You would need to cut and splice 4 pairs of speaker wire (8 total) and extend them from the harness to the lc6i.
> 
> The lc6 still needs a power and a ground source as well
> It might have a auto sensing feature that can turn on the unit without a remote wire.(remote wire tells it when to turn on or off) but if not you will need to run that as well.
> ...


Thanks. Since you have to splice wires, you could potentially put this all the way back in the trunk, correct? Any advantages/problems of doing this?

Either ways it sounds like something I won't be able to do myself. But it does seem like getting this would eliminate the buzz and apparently improve sound quality.


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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

It is the same as a PAC on the installation. It does have auto sense and or a remote turn on in case auto sense doesn't work. The LC6i can be hooked up to the pioneer system as well, the pac can't do that. The LC6i can handle up to a 400watt input. It has maximum lights to help you find the clip point of your head unit. Oh an the trunk install is easy as pie, I did mine under the glove box because it was easier when replacing the pac. 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I've never built a sub box before, and we'll I have questions. I plan on cutting the center area of the rear deck, removing the trunk tension bars and putting 2, 10" low profile subs in. Each sealed area will be .5 cubic foot. My questions are, how far down will the box hang? Should I use mdf or go fiberglass. What do you all think? 
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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I know a lot of folks hate JL but I plan on using their 10" TW3's. Less than 4" mounting depth, just need to figure it all out. 

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Ahiru said:


> I know a lot of folks hate JL but I plan on using their 10" TW3's. Less than 4" mounting depth, just need to figure it all out.
> 
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Shallow mount subs rarely ever sound good in small enclosures due to their low motor strength. I don't care what the manufacturer recommends, they sound boomy, uncontrolled, and thin. Have you modeled them yet?

I can recommend some Dayton and Tang Band shallow mount subs that actually work in that airspace if you'd like. 

People don't just hate JL. They are overpriced and underwhelming for the sound they produce compared to other subs on the market in their price point. A poor value and a high price for a label. 

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## Ahiru (Mar 4, 2013)

I've heard the TW3's and they sound incredible. They were mounted into a challenger below the rear seat side windows. I agree they are priced crazy, but in this case their new low profile design works. I wasn't really after a name brand discussion, I but I am interested in learning more about custom box design. I'd love if you could model the box and yes perhaps a few different subs would be helpful. 

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