# Chevy Cruze 2016 LT (Fob not working, options to start car?)



## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

2012 2LT did the same thing when that 2032 battery shortly went dead, had to quickly put the key in the ignition to start the car to kill that horn blasting off. Guess they haven't improved this yet.

Found a no name made in India battery inside of the remotes, replaced it with a medical grade Duracell, even over four years later was still good when our Cruze was totaled two months ago.

Only the guy that wrote the firmware can change this.


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## novalys (Aug 13, 2016)

I really don't think is the battery of the FOB, I just got the keys like 4 days ago and both are dead. Thinking must be something else, also I don't have the ignition it's a push to start car  but in Youtube there is a video that shows a "secret" compartment below the hand break where you insert the key and it allows to start the car, just can't find this similar thing in this model..


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

My new unmentionable toy does not set off the alarm when I use the hidden the inside of the remote key, is of the proximity type with a good battery in the remote, just have to push on that black button to either lock or unlock the car.

Also has that push button start button, and even with the battery removed from the remote, can still start it, have to hold the remote in my hand and push that start button with the remote.

A good 2032 battery show read 3.3 volts open circuited, if it even goes down to about 3.1 volts, its worthless. Would not assume your batteries are good until you test them. Ha, even a Harbor Freight three buck VOM works, purchased one because it was only three bucks. But I won't mention what my HP's cost, but was more than three bucks.

Try touching your start button with the remote, maybe all these things are the same, learned this by experimenting.

Also since I am paranoid with these remotes, sealed in tight in a zip lock sandwich bag with a rubber band tied around it. Keeps it looking like new and makes 100% water proof. Have a baby grandson that likes to wet on me. No respect for his grandpa, LOL.


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## novalys (Aug 13, 2016)

Well, I do have a multimeter, let me do it right now.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

On mine, remove that key from the remote, put that wedge end of the head of that key into that slot it came out of and twist it to open up the remote.

Only had this new thing for five weeks now, for 63 years, still pulling this remote out of my pocket to start this car, finally sinking in, I don't have to do this anymore. They can just stay in my pocket.


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## novalys (Aug 13, 2016)

OK 2 things, first.. I feel stupid cause I went to the car to pick a key for my garage and just by reflex I opened the door... which opened! so my FOB was working again..... still, got my multimeter and the battery measures a 3.0, so CR 2032 battery should be above 3.0v? It's a panasonic battery, I would think is a good brand but the measurement is indeed just 3.0v


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## abhayes722 (Apr 22, 2016)

This is how you start your car if your fob has a weak battery or no signal. Remove the trim from the storage area near the gear shift, and there will be a slot to insert the key blade. There is also details in your owner's manual under the Keys, Doors, and Windows section.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Hmmm, the old read the owners manual trick.

3.0V for all practical purposes is a dead battery. Never read anywhere how long remote batteries should last. And without being paranoid, ever since our government decided to do business with China, have to be concerned about counterfeits. So you can't always believe what you read on a component.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

NickD said:


> 3.0V for all practical purposes is a dead battery.


What spec are you looking at? According to Energizer, 3.0V under load is a fresh battery. 2.0V is considered end-of-life. I don't see an "unloaded" rating.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

ChevyGuy said:


> What spec are you looking at? According to Energizer, 3.0V under load is a fresh battery. 2.0V is considered end-of-life. I don't see an "unloaded" rating.



Are you asking a question or saying a 2032 battery with an open circuited voltage of 3.0 V should work? Posting something that doesn't have a single thing to do with the application of this battery, and they don't even specify the load current. 

Open circuited voltage testing is the key specification for the state of charge of the battery and is as old as batteries themselves. And application refers to a specific characteristic of remote circuitry, talking about a 10% decrease in open circuited voltage here.

Take a common CMOS microcontroller designed to operate at 5.0V, reduce that voltage down to 4.75V and it would work at all or if it does, will operate extremely erratically. Same thing if you apply 5.25V to it not only erratic, but risk toasting it as well.

2032's have a characteristic to hold their 3.3V for a very long time, but once it drops to 3.2V its life is very short. And if you power a remote with a precision lab type power supply you will see the same results. 

While you are looking for specifications, see if you can find the mah ratings of these batteries, easier to find how to build a nuclear device.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Just popped the battery out of my fob. 2.93V (I assume the shop meter is reasonable accurate.) Most of my experience with that battery type is as a CMOS battery. No question about the voltage reading when I pull out a bad one of those. 

As for AH, Panasonic says 220 mAH. Energizer says 240 mAH (to 2.0V).

Anyway, I wouldn't worry about a battery showing 3.0V when just pulled from a device. 

One thing no one has brought up - RF interference. I'm pretty sure the RF link between the fob and the receiver by the inside rear view mirror is required. I think the backup process is just to cover for a dead battery. By placing it close to a coil, it gets an inductive "charge" to run. I suppose it's possible it could signal back through the magnetic system, but I haven't seen anything that suggests that.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Other variables as well, how many different suppliers is GM using for these remotes? With my 2012 2LT using 2032's, wouldn't work at all with an OC voltage at 3.0V. In terms of digital devices, my watch battery is less than half the size of a 2032 with an OCV of 1.5 volts and is good for at least six years.

Garage door remotes use these.










As well as early 90's vehicles that may they RIP due to road salt. Never recalled replacing these batteries in my garage door remotes, but do recall I installed the garage door opener in the year 2000, still works. 

Batteries that came with my brand new 2012 Cruze had no name, Made in India, hardly lasted six months, but installed medical grade Duracells, still were working when our poor little Cruze was totaled two months ago.

Where is the OP at? Did he try new batteries? Or maybe he got cursed with bad remotes.


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## rmeav8r#106 (Oct 14, 2017)

I'm posting this answer on all the key fob threads. There is a tech bulletin out # 16-NA-396 that a receiver needs to be replaced when the "key fob not detected" appears on the dash and you cannot get the doors to open or the car won't let you drive it. I noticed that it only happened to me when I remote started the vehicle two times in a row due to the cold weather. Dealership getting a visit on the 11th for a fix. I had to use my On Star app to shut the car off and waited 30 minutes before the fob worked again. Don't you just love all this Star Trek technology. Its here to make our life better !


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## rmeav8r#106 (Oct 14, 2017)

Took the car to the dealer today and they said that the tech bulletin didn't apply to my manufacture date. They did perform a Body Control Module (BCM) update and they said that it should solve the problem. Time will tell and I will update the post.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

https://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=197955


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