# DIY Rustproofing



## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Sub'd as I'll be following the advice given here too


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

I also subscribed. 

What is that rear exiting exhaust engine in the car on the lift? 


Sent from my iFail 5s


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## GRIMland (Jun 1, 2014)

It's a Buick LaCrosse but I figured it looks pretty similar to an Eco Cruze without the front underpanel. I couldn't find a large picture of a cruze underside


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## nybble (Mar 30, 2014)

For fluid film, I'd avoid your exhaust components, or you'll get a fun "cooking sheep" kind of smell, given it being lanolin oil.

I'd probably pop off the plastic panels and get up under them, a nice solid coat. Then I would get the entire underside of the transmission and engine.

Get the springs and suspension components and any exposed metal you can see really. I'd also do a bit in the engine bay from the top looking down, as it will creep into the places you don't hit directly.

Try to spray up into any little nooks and crannies you can find.

As for the doors, use the small tube and spray into but up into the door frame, ensuring the window is rolled up first. Try to do it in both directions. Remember, it will creep. Then the door frames. I might save the frames till just before it gets cold.

It should also be safe to use in / around electrical connections, such as your headlight connections. Little extra to ensure less corrosion.

Id probably suggest four cans, as 3 *just* covered my 99 corolla, 5 were needed for all the nooks and crans on my HHR.

Hope this helps. Subing for any other suggestions our members have.


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## GRIMland (Jun 1, 2014)

On a side note, does anyone know how to remove the two bright teal green colored panels in the first picture from first post?


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## q2bruiser (Jun 8, 2014)

The cars already have rustproofing. Why add something which is already there?


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

I just applied some quaker state grease on all major nuts/ bolts/ suspension components/ rods etc by hand lol, but yes.....I gotta get it professionally done once im done with all the mods.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

q2bruiser said:


> The cars already have rustproofing. Why add something which is already there?


Because if you ever worked on a car after a few years of Northern Ohio weather, you will surely thank yourself that you didn't break every bolt you touched. One time use bolts are the devil especially when they break before you got the one time use out of it.


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## marden64 (Dec 1, 2013)

Rust Check. Been using it since '89 and have zero problems with it.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Rare to see a pre 1949 vehicle with rust through, surface rust, yes after sitting out in a field for 60 years. Reason was, adding about 0.5% nickel to the steel. Quit doing that in the 1949 models, because vehicles that don't rust can stay on the road a lot longer limiting new car sales. Plus were very inexpensive to maintain. 

So write to GM and ask them to add nickel to the sheet metal and see what they say. Also write to your congressman to limit the amount of calcium chloride to the roads that is highly corrosive to any type of metal.

But then cities in particular claim they have no place to pile up the snow, so prefer to melt it instead that seeps into cracks causing huge pieces of concrete to rise. Wasn't that great of a problem when we were permitted to use studded snow tires. but claim all the road damage was caused by these. But history is not showing this.

Besides it make the EPA happy when our vehicles rust out, can't even repair a unibody vehicle, and besides they want us to buy a new one with stricter emission controls. Besides when an engine wears, get excessive carbon build up, another reason to get rid of it. EGR and PCV are the keys for causing these kind of problems.

Plastic helps, but can't even use the best plastic for the application, EPA insists on using the same kind of plastic to make the vehicle easier to recycle. So what if it breaks, just replace it. 

Just make the EPA and automotive manufacturers happy, plus your lending institution and plan on buying a new vehicle every five years.


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

So .5% nickel will stop steel from rusting through?


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

money_man said:


> So .5% nickel will stop steel from rusting through?


Not rustproof but better rust resistance. Would take much longer to cause the same damage.


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## GRIMland (Jun 1, 2014)

I noticed there's still a few Ziebarts in the twin cities, though reviews are mixed and it seems their rustproofing isn't nearly as good as Krown.

I think I'll pick up some fluid film and one of their spray can extension wands and go to work this summer following nybble's advice. I'll put silicon or dielectric grease on rubber parts first before I spray. Not quite sure where to buy fluid film locally, maybe at john deere stores. I think I'll just pick some up on Amazon, they have a spray can 3 pack for $33, probably less than I'd pay in store anyways. Unfortunately they don't sell a 4 pack but I might just pick up two 3 packs for future year applications (website says aerosol spray cans have guaranteed shelf life of 1 year, hopefully they last longer than that).

Now I gotta start trying to convince someone to let me use their car lift for half an hour


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

GRIMland said:


> Now I gotta start trying to convince someone to let me use their car lift for half an hour


If you were closer I'd take you on base and let you use the auto hobby shop lifts and help ya out!


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## nybble (Mar 30, 2014)

GRIMLand, I too had the same connundrum. I ended up jacking my previous cars up onto jackstands (SCARY WITH THE HHR) and using a creeper to roll around. Got a little dirty, and oily. I would recommend the xtender hose they sell, I did it before I found that so I improvised with the can's default sprayer hose, and the sprayer itself. 

I know I'll be doing the cruze before the summer is out.

Just like with krown, its best to get it when its warmer out, it'll creep better when its warm. You WILL get drip, but it's one of the more natural oils, so it's semi-easy to get rid of.

Friend and I around here were considering setting up a seasonal "fluid-filming" place and buying a jack for the garage. Might still do that, but not that it helps you much.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

GRIMland said:


> I was planning on DIY rustproofing my new 14 Cruze ECO sometime before the road ice comes back out (all the oil-based rustproof garages closed in Minnesota years ago, therefore no Canadian Krown, etc.). I was leaning toward Amsoil HD MP or Fluid Film - I've heard 3 cans should be enough.
> 
> I've never applied undercoating before. Are there any areas on these cars I should focus on? Any areas where rain and snow will wash it off and therefore I should spend less time on? Also, what about struts, brakes, wheels, rubber grommets, exhaust/CAT/muffler, heat shielding, underside of engine, etc, any thing/place(s) to avoid spraying?
> Maybe these pictures can help steer me toward the areas that should be sprayed:
> ...


How long do you plan on keeping your cruze?


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

I undercoat all my vehicles whether I'm going to keep it for a day or 10 years


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## ehousel (Nov 1, 2013)

money_man said:


> I undercoat all my vehicles whether I'm going to keep it for a day or 10 years


You ever undercoated a rental?


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## money_man (Feb 25, 2014)

Never had a rental. If I did I might think about it. Owning two hoists makes undercoating easy.

With my car I paid $800 for a 10yr warranty undercoating. If it rusts they must fix it.


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## GRIMland (Jun 1, 2014)

hificruzer226 said:


> How long do you plan on keeping your cruze?


This Cruze is my first new car, before this I've always owned vehicles that were over 10 years old and usually kept them for at least 6 years. I figure I'll own the Cruze for at least 6 years maybe as long as 10, though it really depends on how reliable it ends up being. If it constantly needs repairs and work I'll end up selling it sooner


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