# Aftermarket Air Intake



## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

ajkup said:


> I don't know if there is already a thread for this in the diesel area, I didn't see one, but I am looking at new air intakes for my car. There's nothing wrong with the one in there now but just for sound and a few extra horses. Has anyone replaced their stock air intake yet or will it void the warranty? I don't see why it would but just curious.


I recall reading that some have, but don't expect any increase in power or MPG. They seemed to do it for the sound, specically the turbo whine. 

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


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## carid (Jul 20, 2011)

*ajkup*, your choice for aftermarket air intake includes AEM and K&N brands.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

Just like CarID said, AEM and K&N are your two choices. 

The AEM uses a plastic intake tube, but their filters are better than K&N filters. The K&N uses a metal intake tube but comes with an oiled filter. I went with the K&N for the metal tube and when the filter gets dirty I’ll be replacing it with an amsoil and have the best of both worlds. 

And yes, an intake will make the car sound much better, but don’t expect any power increase. It is strictly a sound/looks modification. And I’ve had my car to the dealership plenty of times and they’ve never said anything about it.


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

K&N oiled air filters can cause problems with the MAF because the oil comes off and sticks to the sensors. 

You'll only gain (back) power from a new filter if you are replacing a dirty clogged filter with a clean one, regardless of the type. A clean stock filter is going to provide the maximum power this engine is capable of. There's no cheap add-on power/MPG miracle because if there was the manufacturer would be doing it.

I've also read engine builders tell people to stay away from steel air intake systems, even if the opening is off to the side/stock location, because the metal construction absorbs heat from the engine compartment, causing the intake air to be even warmer. On these cars the stock air setup pulls in cool air from below and away from the engine. The plastic minimally heats the air as it enters the engine.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Based on the (few) threads I have seen of Gen 1 CTD owners installing a CAI, it is definitely only for sound. Also, some have been fine, but some have immediately thrown codes.


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

BDCCruze said:


> K&N oiled air filters can cause problems with the MAF because the oil comes off and sticks to the sensors.
> 
> You'll only gain (back) power from a new filter if you are replacing a dirty clogged filter with a clean one, regardless of the type. A clean stock filter is going to provide the maximum power this engine is capable of. There's no cheap add-on power/MPG miracle because if there was the manufacturer would be doing it.
> 
> I've also read engine builders tell people to stay away from steel air intake systems, even if the opening is off to the side/stock location, because the metal construction absorbs heat from the engine compartment, causing the intake air to be even warmer. On these cars the stock air setup pulls in cool air from below and away from the engine. The plastic minimally heats the air as it enters the engine.


Yeah oiled filters suck, that’s why I said I’ll be replacing it with an amsoil filter when it gets dirty.

Warmer air actually will get you better mileage at the cost of a few hp, so it depends on what someone wants but I’ll gladly sacrifice a few hp to get even more mileage and have the car sound better while doing it. Yes people building engines are generally aiming for as much horsepower as possible but that’s not really relevant here. 

And like I said in my original post, we’re not talking about gaining power here. I’ll say it again, an intake WILL NOT get you more power. It is strictly sound and looks. And maybe an extra mile per gallon


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## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

MP81 said:


> Based on the (few) threads I have seen of Gen 1 CTD owners installing a CAI, it is definitely only for sound. Also, some have been fine, but some have immediately thrown codes.


Mine was one of the ones that threw codes. Ever since the first recall that involved an ecm reprogram, it has thrown no more codes since then. It’s been a few years. So I don’t know if something they did in the reprogram eased up the tolerance of something, or if the car just took a while to get used to it. Either way it hasn’t caused a code for me in years.


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## KingWarren2 (Dec 2, 2017)

I've been thinking of replacing my plastic and rubber intake with a full 3" Alluminium one that tapers down into a 2.5" for the turbo but haven't gotten around to it yet...


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

2014 CTD, 123K miles...I’ve noticed some cracks starting to appear around the clamp on the rubber intake air connection just after the MAF sensor. No CEL nor any performance issues (yet) but could become and issue down the road.

Cost to replace the factory part is about $125

For about $100 more AEM makes a Dry Filter CAI for the CTD that looks like a good option (no oil to foul MAF sensor). 

Wondering if anyone with a diesel has tried the AEM CAI and thoughts?


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

If I was going to someone's house to look at a used car and opened the hood and saw a K&N or other aftermarket filter I would shut the hood and leave. If there were truly gains to be had the manufacturer would include it by stock because they are already at the point of searching for fractions of percentage better efficiency. Moreover, these cars already have a "cold air intake". The air is routed up to the filter from the bottom front of the car. Most of the aftermarket coolers have the air intake directly in the engine compartment which I don't have the words to explain why.

Also, while these cars have intercoolers, typically using metal intake tubing is not a good idea. You are creating a heatsink and warming up the air as it goes into your intake.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

Good to know, I’ll save the $100 bucks and order the OEM intake pipe. Thanks.


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## Mrmatthew28 (Feb 23, 2020)

justin13703 said:


> Just like CarID said, AEM and K&N are your two choices.
> 
> The AEM uses a plastic intake tube, but their filters are better than K&N filters. The K&N uses a metal intake tube but comes with an oiled filter. I went with the K&N for the metal tube and when the filter gets dirty I’ll be replacing it with an amsoil and have the best of both worlds.
> 
> And yes, an intake will make the car sound much better, but don’t expect any power increase. It is strictly a sound/looks modification. And I’ve had my car to the dealership plenty of times and they’ve never said anything about it.





justin13703 said:


> Just like CarID said, AEM and K&N are your two choices.
> 
> The AEM uses a plastic intake tube, but their filters are better than K&N filters. The K&N uses a metal intake tube but comes with an oiled filter. I went with the K&N for the metal tube and when the filter gets dirty I’ll be replacing it with an amsoil and have the best of both worlds.
> 
> And yes, an intake will make the car sound much better, but don’t expect any power increase. It is strictly a sound/looks modification. And I’ve had my car to the dealership plenty of times and they’ve never said anything about it.


Actually the AEM comes with a grey aluminum intake tube I have one on my 18 Cruze k&n one had bad revies


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## NoisyFlys (Aug 12, 2020)

justin13703 said:


> Mine was one of the ones that threw codes. Ever since the first recall that involved an ecm reprogram, it has thrown no more codes since then. It’s been a few years. So I don’t know if something they did in the reprogram eased up the tolerance of something, or if the car just took a while to get used to it. Either way it hasn’t caused a code for me in years.


You have to throw a screen or air straightening filter into the rubber to get rid of the code


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