# New Battery put in by me - car won't start now - HELP!!



## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

With a multimeter check continuity of all the fuses under the fuse block that's under the hood on top of the battery. When you took the plastic thing off the top of the battery something lost it's connection. 

Those are large inline fuses for the positive cable that goes down to the battery. Several hundred amps each. 

Could also check for voltage on both sides of those inline fuses. These don't look like automotive standard fuses. They are part of the "stud" that the red positive wires are attached to. In the compartment at the top of the battery.


----------



## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

@Lobsterbake here’s a shot of my battery just to verify all connections are correct









Good luck!


----------



## Lobsterbake (Apr 18, 2014)

Thanks guys - mine looks just like that. Having it towed to dealer - won't start and hooked up properly so see what they say.


----------



## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Check that 500 amp fuse and the 250 amp fuse first. Someone else had the same problem couple weeks ago. Turned out to be the 250 amp fuse. 

As mentioned. Use a volt meter or a test light to make sure there's voltage on both sides.

That guy bypassed the fuse and hooked up both cables together.


----------



## TX CTD (Oct 24, 2014)

My car would have the same issues, the computer sees something it doesn’t like and it won’t operate the starter relay. This was something that hoppened every so often for no resason. New battery, delete tune, lots of code reading and no one could figure out why. 

I finalt replaced the neg battery cable myself when the dealer wouldn´t and have not had the problem since. It’s an easy fix for $20 and if it’s not causing the issue now it will in the future.


----------



## Cruzator (Dec 31, 2014)

This may sound obvious, but you are in Park, aren't you? You might try shifting it out and back to Park again.


----------



## Lobsterbake (Apr 18, 2014)

I checked to make sure car was in park. Dealer called - says starter needs replaced. Glad I gave the GM extended warranty as the extended warranty has covered over $5000 in repairs after standard warranty expired. I will be getting rid of car at 100K as it is a money pit - I see a Honda Accord in my future or at least a non Diesel GM.


----------



## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Make sure you test that honda first. 

From what i've seen of imports so far. They have high cold idle. Not good for wear and tear. And they have cold thermostats. Heaters suck in winter time. 

Granted I haven't seen ALL imports but it's what i've noticed so far in the ones I've seen.


----------



## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

snowwy66 said:


> Make sure you test that honda first.
> 
> From what i've seen of imports so far. They have high cold idle. Not good for wear and tear. And they have cold thermostats. Heaters suck in winter time.
> 
> Granted I haven't seen ALL imports but it's what i've noticed so far in the ones I've seen.


I’ve never heard of anything coming from the factory with a colder thermostat than like 195. Especially these days with emissions requirements, colder running engines produce more emissions so that definitely isn’t going to happen.

i have an 18 year old Honda Accord with 200,000 miles and you can’t even hear it running. Hondas are pretty good cars.


----------



## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

justin13703 said:


> I’ve never heard of anything coming from the factory with a colder thermostat than like 195. Especially these days with emissions requirements, colder running engines produce more emissions so that definitely isn’t going to happen.
> 
> i have an 18 year old Honda Accord with 200,000 miles and you can’t even hear it running. Hondas are pretty good cars.


My 14 hyundai came with 180. My son's 16 mazda has 180. 13 scion, 16 honda accord also.

And if you still don't want to beleive. www.napaonline.com


----------



## justin13703 (May 2, 2016)

snowwy66 said:


> My 14 hyundai came with 180. My son's 16 mazda has 180. 13 scion, 16 honda accord also.
> 
> And if you still don't want to beleive. www.napaonline.com


Ok I see that a couple of them did come with 180’s, but 180 degrees is plenty to run a heater.

Not sure what the link to Napa was for


----------



## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

justin13703 said:


> Ok I see that a couple of them did come with 180’s, but 180 degrees is plenty to run a heater.
> 
> Not sure what the link to Napa was for


Depends on your region i guess. I traded my hyundai in for the cruze because the 180 heater sucked. Along with the radio lighting up my face at night, and the dealers not wanting to fix the traction control system. 

The car had no problem getting to 150 where it would stay for awhile before hitting 175. To which it didn't hit till i got to work. 

I also didn't like the 2000 rpms on cold start. 

I can't imagine living in the deep freeze areas with a 180.


----------



## Pegasus (Feb 17, 2018)

Lobsterbake said:


> I checked to make sure car was in park. Dealer called - says starter needs replaced. Glad I gave the GM extended warranty as the extended warranty has covered over $5000 in repairs after standard warranty expired. I will be getting rid of car at 100K as it is a money pit - I see a Honda Accord in my future or at least a non Diesel GM.


$5000? What have you had to be replaced besides the starter since you've had it? And is the 2nd generation that bad also? (new owner of a 2nd generation here)


----------



## Lobsterbake (Apr 18, 2014)

Honda's are great cars - GM can learn a lot from Honda. GM is getting better but Honda knows how to manufacture things - in particular 4 cylinder engines that just work. Not perfect but very well engineered cars, motorcycles, power equipment, etc.


----------



## Lobsterbake (Apr 18, 2014)

I have had approximately 20 check engine lights and basically the entire emissions system replaced, - some components multiple times, 3 or so recalls, in for starter now, battery replaced, multiple oil leaks, vehicle had to be towed twice due to no start issues. Had car 3 years - 6 weeks in shop. Very frustrating car - love it when it runs but know it is just a matter of time until another check engine light and emission system issue.


----------



## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

Lobsterbake said:


> I have had approximately 20 check engine lights and basically the entire emissions system replaced, - some components multiple times, 3 or so recalls, in for starter now, battery replaced, multiple oil leaks, vehicle had to be towed twice due to no start issues. Had car 3 years - 6 weeks in shop. Very frustrating car - love it when it runs but know it is just a matter of time until another check engine light and emission system issue.


I looked at my service history a few days ago, 5 times at the dealer in 2017. Almost 4 months into 2018 with zero trips so hopefully I'm heading in the right direction


----------



## Mrdee863 (Mar 29, 2021)

snowwy66 said:


> Check that 500 amp fuse and the 250 amp fuse first. Someone else had the same problem couple weeks ago. Turned out to be the 250 amp fuse.
> 
> As mentioned. Use a volt meter or a test light to make sure there's voltage on both sides.
> 
> That guy bypassed the fuse and hooked up both cables together.


Do u check by placing the meter directly on the fuse it self


----------



## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Mrdee863 said:


> Do u check by placing the meter directly on the fuse it self



You use a test light and test both sides of the fuse.
If they both light up. It's good. Only one side. It's bad.

You could use an ohm meter but power has to be disconnected.


----------

