# Fast ticking



## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Which one of you were driving? What kind of drive thru were you at? Ticking at same speed or does it changed based on speedometer or tachometer?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Tadams1129 said:


> Hi all, we have a 2014 Chevy Cruze LS. It has over 100K miles on it, but we’ve kept it decently serviced. We had an oil and filter change on June 6, and everything seemed fine until today. We were sitting in a drive-through and all of a sudden it started making a fast ticking sound. It didn’t only tick at idle, but as we were driving home. There are no service lights on the dash and oil isn’t leaking. Any ideas?


Check the oil level.


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## BadBowtie (Apr 18, 2015)

Could be the purge valve solenoid.
Up top behind the valve cover. 
My daughters 2012 1.4 LT does this occasionally.


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## Tadams1129 (Jun 9, 2020)

Ma v e n said:


> Which one of you were driving? What kind of drive thru were you at? Ticking at same speed or does it changed based on speedometer or tachometer?


My spouse was driving. It was a drive through restaurant. Seemed like the ticking got faster as we moved faster.


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## Tadams1129 (Jun 9, 2020)

Blasirl said:


> Check the oil level.


Already did that. Level is fine.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Could be something as simple as a small piece of debris in the engine belt. Badbowtie mentioned the purge solenoid, while those do tick, they don't really change speed with engine speed, and it's very unlikely you'd hear it whilst driving.


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## Tadams1129 (Jun 9, 2020)

Ma v e n said:


> Could be something as simple as a small piece of debris in the engine belt. Badbowtie mentioned the purge solenoid, while those do tick, they don't really change speed with engine speed, and it's very unlikely you'd hear it whilst driving.


I couldn't hear it while we were driving unless I rolled down the windows.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I kind of think this is number 15, but just in case ...

_This is my standing click, tick and rattle list (Thanks to many people including JBlackburn, Robby, BigLee and more) :_

1. Could be just the injectors

2. Could be the plastic ECOTEC cover rattling

3. Check that the spark plugs are properly torqued - similar sound, mimics loose valves - Re-gap the plugs to .028, torque to 18 ft-lbs,no anti-seize with stock type plugs, inspect the boots and insure no rips / tears or holes, lightly coat the boots with silicone / dielectirc grease, make sure the resister springs are clean and not cocked in the boots.
These are the recommended plugs from the Hesitation Gone thread:
*-BKR8EIX-2668* (iridium plugs), ~$25, expect ~10-15k regaps on these, ~40-50k overall life.
*-BKR7E-4644* (nickel/copper plugs), ~$8, expect 15-25K out of these plugs, with a regap or two required at 5-8k intervals on stock tune.

4. Could be a failing EVAP purge solenoid/valve or possibly a vacuum leak causing the purge valve to stay open. You can find it right above your intake manifold.
Unplug the electrical connector to the purge solenoid while it's running, and see if the noise goes away. If it does, replace the purge solenoid assembly.
Many of these tend to get very noisy with age, and since it is duty cycled by the PCM it tends to sound very similar to valve-train noise. Part number is 5573017

5. Could be a lifter tick - how's the oil - possibly try seafoam or valvemedic

6. Could be the timing chain tensioner

7. Could be a sloppy timing chain

8. Could be piston slap/wrist pin failure. Remember, piston slap would be noticeable also in neutral.

_9. _Pinging caused by low octane fuel, possibly try using 91 octane fuel for a few tanks.

10. Could possibly be an improperly torqued bolt on the flywheel/torque converter (noise from the trans side)

11. Might be a bad wheel bearing, I personally had this issue.

12. Possibly the knock Sensor going off or bad and it can be exacerbated by any of the above. . The knock sensor is ALWAYS listening. The ECM is constantly adjusting spark/cam timing to run as efficiently as it can, and it should pick up on audible knock/pinging and adjust it before you even hear it.

13. Maybe your AC compressor is going bad

14. Sometimes carbon on tops of pistons or valves can cause some knock. There are several "top engine cleaners" on the market to clean that off.

15. Fuel or brake lines vibrating
#PIC5853: Buzz Vibration Noise Floor Dash Area 1800-2200 Engine RPM - (Apr 22, 2013)

Subject:Buzz Vibration Noise Floor Dash Area 1800-2200 Engine RPMModels:2013 Chevrolet Cruze
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern Some customers may comment of a buzz noise and or vibration in the dash or floor board areas, most noticeable at 1800-2200 engine rpm.
This condition may be caused by fuel line and/or brake line vibrations entering into the cabin area through the front of dash. Even though the fuel lines and/or brake lines are fully seated in their retainers, vibrations may still pass into the cabin area.
Recommendation/Instructions Use additional tape on the affected line(s) and/or add a small O-ring underneath the affected clip(s) to provide better isolation of the clip.
Further insure that the lines do not make any contact with the front of cowl that could further cause a noise or vibration.
Validate the repair by checking for noise or vibration at 1800-2200 engine RPM.

16. Missing air deflector fasteners
#PIC5874: Fluttering Rattling or Thumping Type Noise Above 45 MPH - (Jun 12, 2013)
Subject: Fluttering Rattling or Thumping Type Noise Above 45 MPH

Models: 2011 - 2014 Chevrolet Cruze
2012 -2014 Buick Verano
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern
A customer may indicate there is a flutter or thumping type noise from the side or underneath the vehicle at speeds 45 mph and above.

Recommendation/Instructions
Check the air deflectors mounted on either side under the vehicle. Make sure that all fasteners are in place and secure. Replace fasteners as needed.

If all fasteners are secure, it may be necessary to apply felt to the underbody above the the inside edge of each air deflector (between each fastener location) to eliminate this noise.

_Different sound bytes to choose from:_





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Some of the associated error codes:_

*P0324: Potential causes for this code to set are:*
Defective knock sensor/s
Internal engine malfunction
Ignition misfire/s
Contaminated or substandard fuel
Defective knock sensor control wiring and/or connectors
Bad PCM or a
PCM programing error
Read more at:* P0324 Knock Control System Error*

A new one is the midpipe bracket bolt coming loose


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## Tadams1129 (Jun 9, 2020)

Ok guys, weird story. It's no longer ticking, but we are still headed to take it to be looked at. Any ideas why it would just stop?


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## Tadams1129 (Jun 9, 2020)

All of you have been so helpful!


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