# Valve cover replacement disaster!



## ceberu (Dec 9, 2021)

So I attempted to change the valve cover gasket, and ended up creating a small disaster. I used a valve cover I bought off of amazon, and after I installed the gasket and cover, it idled for a little rough for a few minutes and then when I put into reverse it blew more black smoke out of the exhaust then a B-52. Even though I was using a good torque wrench to 72 inch/lbs at least 2 of the aluminum threads blew apart, and will need to install at least 2 helicoils and thinking do I just do them all? I had the car towed to the dealer because I didn't have the time to work on it further, and they said the turbo-charger failed and they want $5,000 to fix everything. They offered 3k trade to a new car which they are asking 5K above sticker. WTF. No way! 

I am having the car towed back and taking of a week off from work next week. I'm the original owner and the car only has 88K miles. 

Any ideas what could be the issue here? It definitely happened after the valve cover/gasket replacement, I know because I did the work. I did it kind of fast, and wondering if maybe the gasket was not set right or has a leak, or if the PCV is just bad out of the box. Could that cause the black cloud of smoke?


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Have you installed the pcv fix kit? Sounds like you have a faulty pcv system. Why did u attempt to change the valve cover and or gasket?


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## ceberu (Dec 9, 2021)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> Have you installed the pcv fix kit? Sounds like you have a faulty pcv system. Why did u attempt to change the valve cover and or gasket?


Well that's a long story. I replaced the valve cover gasket several months ago, that was clearly leaking. That went fine. Even then I noticed the whistling sound that would continue briefly after turning off engine. I basically ignored it, until I learned it was the PCV in the valve cover, and to always replace the PCV when re-doing the gasket. Since I had done this before, I thought it would be easy to replace again. It didn't go well the second time.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Ask them for a written estimate for the $5,000. That will tell you what needs fixed and give you an idea what your looking at.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

ceberu said:


> Even though I was using a good torque wrench to 72 inch/lbs at least 2 of the aluminum threads blew apart, and will need to install at least 2 helicoils and thinking do I just do them all?


I wouldn't use anymore helicoils than you need to complete the repairs. Many people have come on this site with similar issues after attempting a valve cover replacement. IMHO when see all the comments like the bolts broke or the threads blew out I think over torqueing. I just replaced my valve cover a couple months ago and I still don't get all the issues people seem to have.
As always, this for you just as much as the passersby.

1. By a new valve cover (they all come with a gasket) get either a OEM, Dorman, or a APEX. They are all good, I used the APEX, that said OEM is probably best.
2. After removing the valve cover clean the engine seal surface with alcohol, clean rags and a razor blade. Get all old liquid gasket from the joint between the timing chain cover and engine head.
3. On the new valve cover check to ensure the gasket is pushed in and seated to the gasket channel, EVERY inch of the gasket. Pre-lube the gasket with engine oil.
4. Clean out the crap that has built up in the crank case vent channel. This is the area just to the right of the dip stick.
5. Place a small amount of high temp gasket maker ( like the size of two peas ) on to both timing chain joints.
6. Put the new valve cover in place, give it a wiggle you can feel it settle in. Then start all the bolts by HAND.
7. Now snug up all the bolts (about 36 inch/lbs) using the proper torqueing pattern.
8. Using the proper torqueing pattern again, tighten the bolts to 72 inch/pounds. For reference that is 6 foot/pounds, and a gallon of milk weighs a bit more an 8 pounds. So use a bit of common sense here to check the wrench is set right.
9. Check every bolt again, there are 15 bolts, it is very easy to miss one.
10. Transplant the oil cap neck, oil cap and dip stick.
11. Drink a beer, now you are done.

Keep in mind the valve cover "PCV" valve is only one of three valves in the PCV system. The valve in the intake manifold tends to fail just as much as the others, and that will take out the valve cover PCV valve eventually.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Johnny B said:


> I wouldn't use anymore helicoils than you need to complete the repairs. Many people have come on this site with similar issues after attempting a valve cover replacement. IMHO when see all the comments like the bolts broke or the threads blew out I think over torqueing. I just replaced my valve cover a couple months ago and I still don't get all the issues people seem to have.
> As always, this for you just as much as the passersby.
> 
> 1. By a new valve cover (they all come with a gasket) get either a OEM, Dorman, or a APEX. They are all good, I used the APEX, that said OEM is probably best.
> ...


I agree. I torqued all my valve cover bolts in 4 steps. 30 in-lbs, 60 in-lbs, 71 in-lbs, and a check at 71 in-lbs. When I got to the 60 in-lbs round I was amazed at the variance between the rotation of the bolts. When I went from 60 in-lbs to 71 in-lbs some of them didn’t even rotate. I could see if someone went strait for 71 in-lbs they could *easily* overtorque if they were even in the slightest heavy handed.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

JLL said:


> I could see if someone went strait for 71 in-lbs they could *easily* overtorque if they were even in the slightest heavy handed.


Yup, now that I have done this job myself I have very little doubt over-torqueing is the issue most people have.

And yes, I thought 71 inch/pounds was correct spec. But what is 1 inch/pound between friends


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## BDCCruze (Jul 12, 2017)

ceberu said:


> So I attempted to change the valve cover gasket, and ended up creating a small disaster. I used a valve cover I bought off of amazon, and after I installed the gasket and cover, it idled for a little rough for a few minutes and then when I put into reverse it blew more black smoke out of the exhaust then a B-52. Even though I was using a good torque wrench to 72 inch/lbs at least 2 of the aluminum threads blew apart, and will need to install at least 2 helicoils and thinking do I just do them all? I had the car towed to the dealer because I didn't have the time to work on it further, and they said the turbo-charger failed and they want $5,000 to fix everything. They offered 3k trade to a new car which they are asking 5K above sticker. WTF. No way!
> 
> I am having the car towed back and taking of a week off from work next week. I'm the original owner and the car only has 88K miles.
> 
> Any ideas what could be the issue here? It definitely happened after the valve cover/gasket replacement, I know because I did the work. I did it kind of fast, and wondering if maybe the gasket was not set right or has a leak, or if the PCV is just bad out of the box. Could that cause the black cloud of smoke?


When you take your car someone to get it worked on and they tell you how expensive it is and offer to buy it from you - LEAVE IMMEDIATELY. There's a transmission shop in my area that does that when guys truck transmissions blow up. They offer to "help" the person out by taking this expensive repair off their shoulders. It ends up turning into people working there buying nice vehicles for pennies on the dollar and fixing them after hours.


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## Cevy Cruze (Dec 10, 2021)

Did you check your oil level?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Johnny B said:


> Keep in mind the valve cover "PCV" valve is only one of three valves in the PCV system. The valve in the intake manifold tends to fail just as much as the others, and that will take out the valve cover PCV valve eventually.


Where is this 3rd PCV valve?


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

Blasirl said:


> Where is this 3rd PCV valve?


Called out...YES !!!!

I'll start with the two you probably know of.
#1 The valve cover, it has the diaphragm (throttle) valve.
#2 The intake manifold, check valve. Technically the PCV valve.  
And wait for it...wait...wait....
#3 The turbo inlet, check valve. 🧛‍♂️🧛‍♀️🧛‍♂️


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Johnny B said:


> Called out...YES !!!!
> 
> I'll start with the two you probably know of.
> #1 The valve cover, it has the diaphragm (throttle) valve.
> ...


Is the diaphragm technically a check valve? 

I consider it more of a pressure regulator.


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## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

LMAO..I knew this would happen when I posted it. I said there were three "valves" in the system, go read it again. Actually read both posts again, and show me what you are going on about. Seriously. 
Please excuse my 30 years of industrial maintenance experience, and let me list some valve types...ball, gate, butterfly, disc, globe, needle, pinch, poppet, rotary, throttle, solenoid and YES...diaphragm and check valves.

Lets just take a moment and be honest, he didn't know about the turbo inlet valve.

If it was the valve cover "VALVE", the one of three I already stated as a valve, was in question I guess he should have said that. And the reason he didn't is because he already knew of it, as he should. And if your argument is a throttle valve is NOT a valve or that diaphragms aren't used in valves, I really can't help. That said, by your statement, you do know. Or do you...hehe.

This is truly the internet in full effect.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Johnny B said:


> LMAO..I knew this would happen when I posted it. I said there were three "valves" in the system, go read it again. Actually read both posts again, and show me what you are going on about. Seriously.
> Please excuse my 30 years of industrial maintenance experience, and let me list some valve types...ball, gate, butterfly, disc, globe, needle, pinch, poppet, rotary, throttle, solenoid and YES...diaphragm and check valves.
> 
> Lets just take a moment and be honest, he didn't know about the turbo inlet valve.
> ...


Holy cow Johnny. Simmer down.

I wasn't personally attacking you or your statement. I was just asking a question. A Yes or No answer would have been sufficient. You are correct. A pressure regulator is a type of valve.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Intake manifold PCV valve
Turbo inlet PCV valve
Valve/Camshaft cover PCV vacuum regulator (*Larger* vacuum regulators are often referred to as Vacuum Control Valves )

Since you all want to be technical about it.


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## bunnellyl (Dec 13, 2021)

I'm going through the whistling noise at idle right now and can tell you what the problem is. There are three things that can cause the issue, actually four if you count the rare one of having a spark plug or two coming loose. It's not uncommon to find a spark plug or two not properly torqued and allowing a little compression to escape. It's common but too simple and too easy to fix to be your problem.
The PCV vacuum regulator in the V/C can rupture causing the problem which requires replacing the V/C. In the intake manifold there is a tiny orange neoprene check valve that has a habit of breaking down over time and being eating up by the engine. That requires replacing the intake manifold. Either one of these issues will drastically affect engine performance and set a code, so if the engine is preforming fine and no CEL, take a sigh of relief and go foreword.!
Lastly, and what you are experiencing, is the front crankshaft seal. Because of the design of this engine, it produces extreme crankcase vacuum while in the idle mode. After a few years and a few miles the seal gets hard and the crankcase vacuum will suck air past that seal and cause the noise. You saying the noise continues for a few seconds after the engine is shut down is the dead give away. 
The sound is only present when the engine is up to operating temperature and idling. If the engine is cold there will be no vacuum build up so no noise. When the noise is present, pull the dipstick out a 1/4" or so and the noise will go away. Push it back in and the noise is there. By pulling the dipstick you are relieving the crankcase vacuum and it stops sucking air past the seal. Push it in, noise, pull it out, no noise.
It's not a bad job if you have the proper tools and knowledge. Pull the R/F wheel and inner fender panel, support the engine, pull the air box, the motor mount and remove the drive belt. Now you have access to the vibration damper. Remove the center bolt (Would be a good idea the have an impact wrench to remove this bolt) make sure to mark it so it goes back in in the exact same place it was removed from so it isn't out of time. Check you manual for proper installation.! R&R the seal and put it all back together and live on is silence, at least until the seal gets hard again in a few years. Lots of Utube video's on this whole procedure. 
Good Luck...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

bunnellyl said:


> I'm going through the whistling noise at idle right now and can tell you what the problem is. There are three things that can cause the issue, actually four if you count the rare one of having a spark plug or two coming loose. It's not uncommon to find a spark plug or two not properly torqued and allowing a little compression to escape. It's common but too simple and too easy to fix to be your problem.
> The PCV vacuum regulator in the V/C can rupture causing the problem which requires replacing the V/C. In the intake manifold there is a tiny orange neoprene check valve that has a habit of breaking down over time and being eating up by the engine. That requires replacing the intake manifold. Either one of these issues will drastically affect engine performance and set a code, so if the engine is preforming fine and no CEL, take a sigh of relief and go foreword.!
> Lastly, and what you are experiencing, is the front crankshaft seal. Because of the design of this engine, it produces extreme crankcase vacuum while in the idle mode. After a few years and a few miles the seal gets hard and the crankcase vacuum will suck air past that seal and cause the noise. You saying the noise continues for a few seconds after the engine is shut down is the dead give away.
> The sound is only present when the engine is up to operating temperature and idling. If the engine is cold there will be no vacuum build up so no noise. When the noise is present, pull the dipstick out a 1/4" or so and the noise will go away. Push it back in and the noise is there. By pulling the dipstick you are relieving the crankcase vacuum and it stops sucking air past the seal. Push it in, noise, pull it out, no noise.
> ...


Welcome Aboard!

This process is well documented here on the forum. 

Here are the myriad of links for the explanations, fixes and possible symptom fixes.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

PVC Intake Manifold Failure letter from Chevrolet
Special Coverage - Camshaft Cover Replacement - (Jul 28, 2020) #N202299080


*2011-2016 Cruze 1.4 PCV Valve Cover/Intake Manifold Issues*

How-To: Remove 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Intake Manifold
How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V2 Install
How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install
www.cruzekits.com
Depending on the other symptoms
How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)
How-To: 1.4L Gen 1 front crankshaft seal replacement
How-To: Replace CPASV (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve) Seals
How-To: Charge pipe clean - up.


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