# GMPP front brake kit



## perlionex (Mar 10, 2011)

Yep, see the other thread here:

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-ge...sonic-performance-parts-cruze-compatible.html

Looks like they're only going to be available early next year.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

$770 for a brake upgrade? What will the final rotor size be? And for that price I can buy the ZZP kit for the calipers, and buy a set or two of rotors and pads that actually work. Then again, this is what you get with dealer made performance packages.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

This kit has much nicer calipers than the ZZP kit IMO. It also appears teh GM one is 4 piston vs 2 piston from ZZP. And you will be basically paying for looks for any kit you get since this car doesn't really have the performance to need a big brake kit. what it comes with from the factory is just fine with a pad upgrade.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

The cruze brakes are under sized for what it tips the scale at. 

I use C5 calipers with 12 Carlo rotors and LS1 Fbody brackets.

Fyi the first gen CTSV calipers fit with the 10+ SS rotors 
just need a good wheel offset


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

SneakerFix said:


> The cruze brakes are under sized for what it tips the scale at.
> 
> I use C5 calipers with 12 Carlo rotors and LS1 Fbody brackets.
> 
> ...


Weight wise I still think you are just fine, but since the car is as slow a syrup running uphill, unless you race it, you shouldn't be having braking issues. I guess I just don't see the need for monster brakes on an econobox (barring track time). **** even on the track you would probably be better served managing your momentum with this car than hammering on 12 inch brakes, not like you have the torque to pull out of the turn with it after.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

NBrehm said:


> Weight wise I still think you are just fine, but since the car is as slow a syrup running uphill, unless you race it, you shouldn't be having braking issues. I guess I just don't see the need for monster brakes on an econobox (barring track time). **** even on the track you would probably be better served managing your momentum with this car than hammering on 12 inch brakes, not like you have the torque to pull out of the turn with it after.


After a full season of heavy autocross I'm pretty sure Poje has proven that our brakes are crap stock, especially since if my memory is correct, the stock brakes crapped out half-way through his first day. Then upgraded stock size rotors and pads did the same, followed by the ZZP kit, and it wasn't until he had upgraded rotors and pads for the ZZP kit that they actually worked.

Also, I don't know why you mentioned running uphill, its downhill that matters. I've gone down mountains before where I wasn't even going fast, and I was smelling brakes/feeling my brakes shake from overheating before I was even half-way down. Our stock brakes are perfectly fine going around town and economy highway driving, but anything more than that and they fall flat on their face.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

I was referring to the syrup running uphill, not the car . Auto-cross is a different beast altogether, you can't really manage momentum on such a tight course so i can def see a brake upgrade working there, especially since you don't carry much speed.


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## Smurfenstein (Nov 16, 2011)

NBrehm said:


> I was referring to the syrup running uphill, not the car . Auto-cross is a different beast altogether, you can't really manage momentum on such a tight course so i can def see a brake upgrade working there, especially since you don't carry much speed.


You'd be surprised what our car can do once its up to speed. You just need to get it up, then keep it there through the turns, and it will just hug corners like a dream, especially being a simple economy car.

The only good thing that can/will come from this kit, is whether or not we can talk the dealers into selling the calipers separate, allowing us to save money, or pay the same amount, but end up with better pads/rotors.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

Smurfenstein said:


> You'd be surprised what our car can do once its up to speed. You just need to get it up, then keep it there through the turns, and it will just hug corners like a dream, especially being a simple economy car.
> 
> .


That's What I meant by managing your momentum Vs heavy throttle/brake application. I will give you it hugs corners well for an economy car, but it is still a far, far, far cry from high performance. It's too top heavy, has a poor weight bias with too narrow of a track in anything close to stock trim. And maybe it is just me, but I'll take the added clamping force and energy/heat distribution of 2 more pistons over a slightly larger diameter rotor any day of the week.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

NBrehm said:


> They are twin 300MM piston calipers.


Holy clamping force, Batman! Twin 300mm pistons in a brake caliper? What size are the disks? Those could stop the debt clock!


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

SneakerFix said:


> I use C5 calipers with 12 Carlo rotors and LS1 Fbody brackets.
> 
> Fyi the first gen CTSV calipers fit with the 10+ SS rotors
> just need a good wheel offset


Do share more info! Got a link to a DIY or some pics? I assume you're using these on a Cruze?


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> Holy clamping force, Batman! Twin 300mm pistons in a brake caliper? What size are the disks? Those could stop the debt clock!


Wow I have no idea why I typed that, everyone should have 12 inch pistons, lol


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

LOL when I saw 300 mm I was like yeah, that kit is too much unsprung weight for me w/o a tune and DP.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Blue Angel said:


> Do share more info! Got a link to a DIY or some pics? I assume you're using these on a Cruze?



Yea. It's on my ECO 


no write up is really needed the C5/Ls1 brakes bolt on just remove the heat shield you need to redrill the rotors to 5x105


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

SneakerFix said:


> Yea. It's on my ECO
> 
> 
> no write up is really needed the C5/Ls1 brakes bolt on just remove the heat shield you need to redrill the rotors to 5x105


I'd be careful and do some measuring if you have 16" wheels, but any of the 17's should clear with no issues. The F-body brakes should clear most 16" wheels, but the Corvette one's probably will not


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

SneakerFix said:


> Yea. It's on my ECO
> 
> 
> no write up is really needed the C5/Ls1 brakes bolt on just remove the heat shield you need to redrill the rotors to 5x105


Interesting... I just put my C5 away for the winter. Come spring I'll have to look into that!


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## blackbowtie (Jul 4, 2013)

SneakerFix said:


> Fyi the first gen CTSV calipers fit with the 10+ SS rotors just need a good wheel offset


Or Z06 crossdrilled rotors. There only a dollar more than the SS rotors on gmpartsdirect.

And you'll need a 18" wheel to comfortably clear them. That's what was stock on the CTS-V and they were hella tight in there. Some guys on LS1 forums had to grind the fins off the brakes to make them clear their 17" wheels.


I could do two Z06 rotors, L&R CTS-V calipers shipped for $430

Referencing these two threads from LS1Tech.com

CTS-V brake install on Trans-Am ==> CTS-V Brake Install w/ Pics - LS1TECH

Fitting over 17" wheels ==> F-Body with CTS-V Calipers 14" Rotors and 17" rims - LS1TECH

Someone find an issue with this, cause I can't. I am tempted to buy the GMPP kit but this would be an amazing project!

ETA: Part numbers L/R caliper:89047727/ 89044726
Rotors: 22812086 (old #12121787)


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

blackbowtie said:


> Or Z06 crossdrilled rotors. There only a dollar more than the SS rotors on gmpartsdirect.


If it were me i'd skip the ZO6 rotors and go for the blank SS rotors. The ZO6 rotors are directionally vaned and cross drilled, which some find cool until you realize the left and right rotors are the same... yes, one spins the correct way and the other spins backwards WRT the proper direction for moving air through the rotor to cool it. Track testing seems to show there's not much difference in thermal performance, but this is one bean counter influence I would avoid if I was putting a BBK on my car. My OCD won't allow for such nonsense.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Smurfenstein said:


> After a full season of heavy autocross I'm pretty sure Poje has proven that our brakes are crap stock, especially since if my memory is correct, the stock brakes crapped out half-way through his first day. Then upgraded stock size rotors and pads did the same, followed by the ZZP kit, and it wasn't until he had upgraded rotors and pads for the ZZP kit that they actually worked.
> 
> Also, I don't know why you mentioned running uphill, its downhill that matters. I've gone down mountains before where I wasn't even going fast, and I was smelling brakes/feeling my brakes shake from overheating before I was even half-way down. Our stock brakes are perfectly fine going around town and economy highway driving, but anything more than that and they fall flat on their face.


Smorey didn't have that luck with the ZZP brakes. In fact, if I recall, he had to send the claipers back once because the banjo bolt kept leaking, and now he needed new rotors as well since the car kept pulling from a hard brake at high speeds. I'd trust something coming directly from GMPP than what ZZP has. 

Also, our stock brakes are perfectly adequate for anything but racing IF:

1. your brake fluid isn't 2+ years old
2. your rear drums (if equipped) are adjusted correctly

If you're going racing down mountains, you should be running a brake fluid with a higher boiling point and changing out every 18 months, like a high performance DOT4 fluid. I would also run a more aggressive brake pad, if you don't mind them during daily driving. 



blackbowtie said:


> Or Z06 crossdrilled rotors. There only a dollar more than the SS rotors on gmpartsdirect.
> 
> And you'll need a 18" wheel to comfortably clear them. That's what was stock on the CTS-V and they were hella tight in there. Some guys on LS1 forums had to grind the fins off the brakes to make them clear their 17" wheels.
> 
> ...


Making them fit is the hard part, and I wouldn't use "cross drilled" rotors if you paid me to. The hard part is always going to be getting them to "bolt right up" with a proper caliper bracket, and then dealing with the new change in brake bias from the higher diameter front pistons. The caliper bracket will be the biggest challenge. Get a caliper bracket made, and you can use whatever brakes you want from whatever manufacturer you want.


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## blackbowtie (Jul 4, 2013)

I had noticed the identical rotors. I would have to agree with you then on not getting them. I flog the **** outta these stock brakes at times and have had minimal warping occur. With that much more surface area, I can't imagine what I would have to do to warp those things.


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## blackbowtie (Jul 4, 2013)

SneakerFix said:


> Yea. It's on my ECO
> 
> 
> no write up is really needed the C5/Ls1 brakes bolt on just remove the heat shield you need to redrill the rotors to 5x105


Where's the pics? :1poke:

Did you have to shim them out with washers or need longer brake lines?


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Smorey didn't have that luck with the ZZP brakes. In fact, if I recall, he had to send the claipers back once because the banjo bolt kept leaking, and now he needed new rotors as well since the car kept pulling from a hard brake at high speeds. I'd trust something coming directly from GMPP than what ZZP has.
> 
> Also, our stock brakes are perfectly adequate for anything but racing IF:
> 
> ...





NBrehm said:


> I'd be careful and do some measuring if you have 16" wheels, but any of the 17's should clear with no issues. The F-body brakes should clear most 16" wheels, but the Corvette one's probably will not


If you use the Fbody braket and 12 rotors they will clear most 16's. But if you mod the C5 bracket and use the 12.5 Vette rotor 17's are needed.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Smorey didn't have that luck with the ZZP brakes. In fact, if I recall, he had to send the claipers back once because the banjo bolt kept leaking, and now he needed new rotors as well since the car kept pulling from a hard brake at high speeds. I'd trust something coming directly from GMPP than what ZZP has.
> 
> Also, our stock brakes are perfectly adequate for anything but racing IF:
> 
> ...





blackbowtie said:


> Where's the pics? :1poke:
> 
> Did you have to shim them out with washers or need longer brake lines?


custom lines were made to use the stock hardware. It's a bolt on affair 
And as XR said good fluid goes along way. 


My cruze ruse is about 500 miles away will post pics soon. Really isn't nothing special looks stock.


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## blackbowtie (Jul 4, 2013)

I'm buying into the CTS-V idea. I can do this cheaper than buying the GMPP kit or ZZP kit and won't have to deal with another set of those rebuilt F-bodies like my Prix. 

I'll piece it together over winter and slap it together for the spring. I haven't had to DIY anything on a car since I got rid of my last Prix.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

I don't think they will clear stock wheels. Not to mention they are a bit much. What are you going to do to compensate with the back? With that much braking force up front and nothing out back you can expect some pretty bad understeer. Car will probably handle like garbage. It will also overpower the tires pretty quickly so you can expect ABS issues. Bigger isn't better when it creates an imbalance.


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## blackbowtie (Jul 4, 2013)

I have all winter to toy with this notion and come up with a solution. The overall intent is to set-up a full brake upgrade on here. And the lack of feasibility is what makes it worth it to me. 

It should be done by the time everyone gets here for the Lordstown meet, whenever that gets put together.


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## perlionex (Mar 10, 2011)

BTW, it's not just the brake imbalance that will be an issue. With larger caliper pistons you'll need a larger brake master cylinder as well or the brake pedal will feel mushy and there'll be too much brake travel.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

The only issue I had with the CTSV was with it not clearing any of my wheels without a huge spacer. The MC handled it just fine. Our MC is actually bigger then the one on the Fbody


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

Still think it is way overkill. No matter what you do there is still a 215 to maybe 235 series tire on the front of this car (assuming stock fenders). Maybe with an R compound tire the difference will be measuereable, but with a street tire you can forget it. I'm willing to go on record here and now and say the GMPP kit will be equal to or better than any of these ideas and probably cheaper when all is said and done.


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## Evofire (Oct 3, 2013)

NBrehm said:


> Still think it is way overkill. No matter what you do there is still a 215 to maybe 235 series tire on the front of this car (assuming stock fenders). Maybe with an R compound tire the difference will be measuereable, but with a street tire you can forget it. I'm willing to go on record here and now and say the GMPP kit will be equal to or better than any of these ideas and probably cheaper when all is said and done.


I am going to agree with this. Anything other then stock on the ABS equipped cars will cause issues with the systems functioning properly. I am guessing that GM probably took that into thought when they designed a kit. And probably designed the kit to work within the parameters of the already setup electronic/vaccum assist systems. 

While I agree that these cars leave a lot to be desired FOR THE TRACK, they function well above par IMO for daily driving.


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## sx sonic (Nov 25, 2013)

Evofire said:


> While I agree that these cars leave a lot to be desired FOR THE TRACK, they function well above par IMO for daily driving.


The resident autocrosser on SOF discovered that better brake fluid and pads were mandatory for serious autocross work. Even with better pads he still managed to boil the fluid late in race. I realize it's a little lighter car but the results should be near the same. Just food for thought for any serious racers not yet ready to make the large investment for a caliper and rotor upgrade.



As for the comment about carrying more momentum around the turns, keep in mind this does not remove the load on the brakes, unless you're sacrificing large amounts of time per corner. Keep in mind this is racing and if you're light on the brakes someone else will be passing you, unless they're ham fisted and don't modulate the brake while transitioning into the turn, scrubbing their momentum or the brake to late blowing the good line They Will Be Faster.

With an underpowered car hard braking AND carrying momentum are your only friends. If your not braking hard all yyou've got going is speed thru the turns, if you're ham fisted with the brakes there goes corner speed and you're left with braking being the only saving grace. Without all of them positions are being forfeited.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

NBrehm said:


> Still think it is way overkill. No matter what you do there is still a 215 to maybe 235 series tire on the front of this car (assuming stock fenders). Maybe with an R compound tire the difference will be measuereable, but with a street tire you can forget it. I'm willing to go on record here and now and say the GMPP kit will be equal to or better than any of these ideas and probably cheaper when all is said and done.



Funtion over form



cheaper I would say no I did mine for $400 that included porterfield pads and rear shoes

when I tested the V set up it was $600 

But I don't recommend the V swap at all on the cruze without rear disc it's just for looks 
u will have better results with the 12.5 inch rotor from a C5 Vette if you feel the Carlo/impala/Fbody rotor is to small 11.8 or 11.5 as some have said


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

sx sonic said:


> The resident autocrosser on SOF discovered that better brake fluid and pads were mandatory for serious autocross work. Even with better pads he still managed to boil the fluid late in race. I realize it's a little lighter car but the results should be near the same. Just food for thought for any serious racers not yet ready to make the large investment for a caliper and rotor upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So how do you brake hard AND carry momentum through a turn? Yes obviously you want to drive as deeply into a corner before braking but in an under powered car the more you slow down the worse your mid corner and exit speed will be, which, IMO are much more important than corner entry. I'll take my chances being passed floating it in to be able to maintain speed on corner exit and down the next straightaway. With huge brakes on a light, nose heavy car with relatively narrow tires and no real braking power in back you are far more likely to understeer through the corner and miss it completely or worse, overcompensate into snap oversteer. Yes you would obviously want to wait as long as possible to brake into the corner. A larger rotor and/or more pistons will greatly help but again you need to talk balance. 99.9% of these cars will never see a racetrack and aren't driven by race car drivers. If you feel the need to put gargantuan 6 piston, 14 inch brakes on the front of your car that has drums in the rear because of some misconception it will make it better then a 10.5 inch rotor with 4 piston calipers on this car you are going to be in for a surprise. With street tires the most likely outcome is it will constantly kick in the ABS every time you apply moderate pressure since you want have super sticky tires and there are things like water, dirt and gravel on real roads, but the system itself may not even be able to operate a caliper that large properly. If you want to go that big on the brakes the smart move is to overhaul the entire system with parts that are made to work together.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

The other issue with this car is it isn't designed for performance, if you look at the nose and the fenders there isn't a lot of air getting to the brakes to cool them, it is pretty sealed up for better aero for fuel mileage. Most of the wheels aren't very open either which doesn't help the situation. All aluminum calipers and bigger rotors buy you is some more time before the brake fade starts. If you can't get them cooled they will eventually all over heat no matter how big they are.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

The higher fluid boiling point will go a long way in keeping your brakes from fading under stress, be it mountain grades, emergency stops, or autocross track use. 

In Europe, many countries have safety inspections where they actually check the water contamination of brake fluid, and half of them fail that test and need the fluid replaced. It's kind of a big deal and rather sad that this country doesn't do anything about such an important aspect of your car. I feel like an idiot for having driven so many miles on so many cars and never changing the brake fluid. I've made fluid boil many times before. 

DOT 3 minimum is 400 degrees F, and most high performance fluids go between 520 and 595 degrees F dry. After 2 years or 30k miles, your fluid is down to 290 degrees boiling point. To me that's a big safety issue. Motul, ATE, and Amsoil make great brake fluids that vastly outperform the DOT3 and DOT4 spec. 

Expect to pay ~$0.60 an ounce for a ~520-535 degree dry boiling point and ~$1.15 an ounce for a 580-595 degree boiling point at retail. You need about 28-30 ounces to flush the entire system. 

Sent from mobile.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

NBrehm said:


> All aluminum calipers and bigger rotors buy you is some more time before the brake fade starts. If you can't get them cooled they will eventually all over heat no matter how big they are.


That's mostly true, but don't forget that bigger discs and calipers have more surface area to dissipate heat. Even if the airflow situation isn't improved, a 20% increase in radiating area will translate into 20% more cooling.

A bit off topic, but since you brought up airflow, I bet a set of ducts could be tabbed up pretty easy if the fog light panels were removed and some dryer hose installed. It may not look great, but it surely would help keep those brakes cooler.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> That's mostly true, but don't forget that bigger discs and calipers have more surface area to dissipate heat. Even if the airflow situation isn't improved, a 20% increase in radiating area will translate into 20% more cooling.
> 
> A bit off topic, but since you brought up airflow, I bet a set of ducts could be tabbed up pretty easy if the fog light panels were removed and some dryer hose installed. It may not look great, but it surely would help keep those brakes cooler.
> 
> ...


Adding pistons helps also because there is more fluid around the brakes, at least till you boil the fluid anyway


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

NBrehm said:


> Adding pistons helps also because there is more fluid around the brakes, at least till you boil the fluid anyway


How hard do you have to be driving a Cruze to boil some Amsoil DOT4 or Motul 600? 580-595 degree dry boiling point; nearly 1.5x the DOT3 spec. 

Sent from mobile.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

Lol, off a cliff?


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## perlionex (Mar 10, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> A bit off topic, but since you brought up airflow, I bet a set of ducts could be tabbed up pretty easy if the fog light panels were removed and some dryer hose installed. It may not look great, but it surely would help keep those brakes cooler.


I've already done this. Trying to make it look nicer now, and also direct the airflow directly at the brake spindle. I'll post pictures once this is nicely done up.


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## 30 Ounce (Nov 18, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> How hard do you have to be driving a Cruze to boil some Amsoil DOT4 or Motul 600? 580-595 degree dry boiling point; nearly 1.5x the DOT3 spec.
> 
> Sent from mobile.


I use Motul RBF600 I my track car that is twice as powerful (but 500lbs lighter) than the Cruze and can attest that it is one of the best brake fluids available. I've tried many but not Amsoil's. One thing that hasn't been pointed out is brake feel and control that a 4 piston caliper can provide when properly setup. Being able to control threshold braking without the help of ABS through pedal feel is something you all need to experience to appreciate.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

30 Ounce said:


> I use Motul RBF600 I my track car that is twice as powerful (but 500lbs lighter) than the Cruze and can attest that it is one of the best brake fluids available. I've tried many but not Amsoil's. One thing that hasn't been pointed out is brake feel and control that a 4 piston caliper can provide when properly setup. Being able to control threshold braking without the help of ABS through pedal feel is something you all need to experience to appreciate.


Amsoil's DOT4 racing brake fluid is going to be effectively identical to Motul RBF600. The cost per ounce between the two is the same at $1.13 per oz. The Amsoil fluid boils at 580 degrees and the Motul fluid boils at 595 degrees. Basically a wash at a 2.5% difference. It's more a matter of which one you can get more easily. Amsoil's DOT3 boils at a lower 520 degrees and has a lower wet boiling point, but is only $0.60 per oz. That's comparable to ATE TYP 200 (which is a DOT4 fluid) in price and performance. As an Amsoil dealer, I offer a 12-15% discount on all products so it's cheaper sometimes for people to just throw in 3 bottles of brake fluid with an order for trans fluid or oil. 

I have 4-piston calipers on the front of my 91 Toyota Pickup 4x4.


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## Evofire (Oct 3, 2013)

All I see/read with this thread is a lot of speculation. 

The FACTS are that the brakes as designed are the only brakes that will function flawlessly (read "as designed") within the parameters of the ABS, traction control, and stabilitrack systems. I for one would not trust ANY after market brake upgrades (unless they are the same sized parts just different materials) unless they come from a big brake company like Wilwood, Baer, or Brembo, et al. 

I am not trying to discourage, but am trying to point out facts and save people troubles, and possibly lives.

In my NON ABS car, (supercharged Sunfire) I swapped to a Wilwood front and rear setup that has saved (potentially) my life and my cars life 3 times already in 5 years. I felt safe doing this swap, because the kits were r&d'd buy a milti-million dollar company, not just thrown together with "other" car parts, and called a kit. 

You cannot make up for electronic systems by just installing bigger parts....it just doesn't work that way guys. This isn't the days of non powered non assited brakes. ELECTRONICS play a big role in how your car stops.


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## SneakerFix (Jul 28, 2013)

Evofire said:


> All I see/read with this thread is a lot of speculation.
> 
> The FACTS are that the brakes as designed are the only brakes that will function flawlessly (read "as designed") within the parameters of the ABS, traction control, and stabilitrack systems. I for one would not trust ANY after market brake upgrades (unless they are the same sized parts just different materials) unless they come from a big brake company like Wilwood, Baer, or Brembo, et al.
> 
> ...




The company I work for has worked with wilwood and a few others a lot of the brake systems are in fact pieced from and for other cars just with different brackets. For years GM has over done it's ABS systems. The biggest you can run is a 13 inch rotor with out causing the abs to trip out when I plugged in the tech2 I had a bunch of codes for abs after my first test fit and the 14inch.


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

NBhrem, you're leaving off the 1 at the end of the part number in your first post. GMPD now has them for $745, but add them to the cart and they want $117 shipping. So this is a problem. Still not sure they are worth the money for less than an inch increase in rotor diameter. The calipers are worth it, but 300MM isn't all that much larger. I was hoping for at least 12.2" And the calipers are the same stock part number on the sonic and cruze.


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## Branrile09 (Mar 25, 2017)

SneakerFix said:


> The cruze brakes are under sized for what it tips the scale at.
> 
> I use C5 calipers with 12 Carlo rotors and LS1 Fbody brackets.
> 
> ...


So i was just wondering, will the gen 1 ctsv caliper bolt directly to the cruze or do i need an adapting bracket? Also was wondering what offset would be needed on the rims, rims size, and what rotor size would work with the ctsv caliper?


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## minnesotafats13 (Sep 11, 2013)

They are not going to bolt right up. You will need a custom caliper bracket in order to bolt the CTS-V calipers on. Also if you don't already have them you will likely need 18" wheels. They may fit under a thinner 17" wheel, but I know when I was looking at that for my Camaro with OEM 17" wheels they were not going to fit.


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## Cruzen Vegas (Aug 27, 2015)

Will the Gm Kit fit a 2012 cruze ltz with 18" rims? Is it just a front Kit? do they have a rear?


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