# Endless issues with my cruze. Not at all happy. Advice needed!



## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

Quite a long story this, but bare with me as I am going to try and include any piece of info that is relevant, well, mostly relevant. 

My car: I live in the UK, and have the 1.6Ecotec 111BHP version. I know you don't have this in the USA, but bare with me as you might still be able to A) diagnose the issue, or B) Tell me how to get rid of the car

My Issue: Ever since buying the car, its never been a 'smooth' drive, with acceleration seeming to come in small bursts through the rev range rather than just a smooth flow. Obviously granny driving you don't notice it as your not really putting the engine under any noticeable load. I purchased the car for £7488 GBP in August 2012 with 28k miles on the clock as it was the best spec'd, best looking and had the nicest interior of all the cars in my price range. 

In November time, the jumpyness got worse and after some time, a misfire developed, at first it was only rarely, until eventually I was running on 3Cyl all the time. Pretty rubbish. This was along with the issue the car had very wobbly steering on the motorway above 70MPH and pulled to the left quite vigorously. After about 5 times taking it back to Arnold Clark (the car warehouse I bought it from initially) to get it sorted at their service centre and it coming out no different, I took it to the Vauxhall/Chevrolet dealer for them to sort it out (paid by arnold clark) and after them trying to sort it twice (First time saying 'can't find anything wrong with it, it looks fine', and the second time saying 'they all pull to the left its the design') I finally thought f*ck it. I took it to the local tyre fitting place and got them to laser align and balance all the wheels. all 4 were miles out. Who knows how they didn't sort it. I forked out £90 for the alignment, and after bringing up a complaint at Arnold Clark, they paid me the full amount back by cheque. You get the idea the kind of idiots im dealing with here.

Anyway, back to the misfire, After taking it in a few times and them not being able to diagnose the misfire because when I turned off the car and started it again, it cleared the codes, and when started again it would be fine. So eventually got it taken to them whilst it was misfiring and they diagnosed it as cylinder 3 mifire and eventually replaced "all" of my spark plugs. You'll find out why i said "All" soon. 

So, it was back to not misfiring but still not running smooth, It was worse under load, for example every friday night when I go to band practice with 2 band mates, 2 guitars and a few components from my drum kit. I barely get anywhere. 
Didn't do anything for a few months, until about february, when I got fed up, told them the symptoms and left it with them and low and behold 'we can't find anything wrong with it'.

I got fed up and decided to try the spark plugs myself, so bought a new set of NGK R plugs and put them in. As I put them in, I noticed only the spark plug in Cyl 3 looked new, all the others looked like they had been there for a while. So they cheaped out on that. £20 down the drain.

The reason I can tell its worse and that is not how the car usually runs is because on rare occations, the car will work fine, no issues, smooth power delivery. Its really nice. Then it goes back to running crap the next time i drive it. So the people that are test driving it suspect that that's just how they are I suppose. but using it daily drives me absolute nuts. Im paying out my ears (£191 a month on finance) for a car that I hate driving.

Anyway. I went down to london a week ago today, 270miles each way and i went there and back in one day, although not unusual as I do drive alot for work long distance. 
About 50 miles from home I got 'Error E79' show up on my dashboard. Pulled up at the next services, googled it (to find not much info) but a general sign that it is low on oil. So I checked it the recommended way (im not a complete noob with engines) and it had over half. I know you its not accurate when you've been driving, so I continued the journey with no warning light reappearing and the next morning checked the oil, and again, it was over half, only just, but over half. 












Then the day after, on my way home (via dropping work a couple of parcels off at the local Parcel Force depot) going down a dual carriageway that has 2 sets of traffic lights on it, I set off from the second sets of lights quickly so the car along side did not cut me up as the lanes merged not far ahead, and Bam, full on misfire. Dashboard glowing like a christmas tree on fire (slight exaggeration) but the T/C, Anti-skid light with the flashing Engine Management light were going. I carried on as I had to get to the depot and I'v driven it misfiring before so I expected it to be fine for the next 5 miles or so if I didn't pull over to try just re-starting it. However, in the middle of town, at the front of a set of traffic lights, it just cut out completely. Blocking the lane of traffic (at rush hour) just just would not start, with bongs and beeps and flashing lights everywhere. I sat there for about 5 minutes after opening my bonnet and thinking what the f*ck am i going to be able to do under here now? I tried starting it again and it fired straight up, all 4 cylinders working fine. If anything, more like it does when it normally runs. So go to the depot and luckily I was carrying my bluetooth OBD2 connector. So plugged it in and did an error scan on my mobile with the App I have (Torque) and came up with these errors. screenshotted straight from my phone when i got to the deop 1/2 mile down the road:












The bottom one apparently is something to do with Mitsubishi power steering pump issue, I presume its just a general code that means different things with different manufacturers. no idea what it means on the cruze.






















All of this happened on Friday (17th May 2013) just for reference. And luckily I had booked the car in that day in my lunch break for the following tuesday (today, 21st) just because it still wasnt running right and I got that error pop up.

Later that night, trying to cheer myself up, I drove for a chinese, and it was fine on the 1/2 mile journey there. On the way back I thought lets try and get it misfiring again, so I booted it off and low and behold, mid 2nd gear it started again all the way home feeling confident that this time they have hard evidence that its not working properly.

I didn't drive it all weekend and dumped it with them on monday. It was running on 4cylinders, but being its normal non-smooth self. I told them everything I could, showing them that diagnosis readout etc. 

And mid day today, i got a phone call from Wilson and Co (the garage the car is in) saying 'Just an update, but our scanner can't find any issues or saved fault codes in the ECU, we've been on a test drive and there isn't anything noticably wrong with it'.

Safe to say im p*ssed off majorly. 

Im concidering ringing up my finance company, kicking off and maybe get legal help. I have heard of instances where the customer has done that and had the car paid off and been allowed to take out another finance deal on another car.

Im only 19 so I presume people just think I drive like a d*ck (not true) and that they can just walk all over me. 

I feel like i'v been robbed and the reliability of my cruze has been awful. I'v tried defending it to the hills saying its good cond comfy and stuff, but that's just not enough when it drives you up the wall daily.

Thank you for reading and if anyone has any slight hint of what I can do myself, tell the garage, anything at all, please let me know.


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## lmacnit (Jun 8, 2012)

You have to start looking systematically. Seal your petrol tank cap with a small piece of transparent tape, to make sure none of your neighbors are messing with your Cruze's petrol. I don't think it's electrical (plug wires or distributor) because those problems usually aren't intermittent. I'm guessing fuel pump, possibly a clogged fuel filter or junk in your petrol. Buying a used vehicle, you don't know how the previous owner treated it or what problems they had. Perhaps that's why they sold it.


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

Not the petrol tank, I don't live in an area that would have that, plus the fuel cap locks when the car is locked, which I do whenever i'm not in the car  I'll check those out. The previous owner had it for a month and swapped it for the automatic version of the exact same car, he was about 75 years old and had problems using the clutch. Who knows before that. But all of this should be covered under warranty.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Have you checked underneath the hood for loose connections, and given all the connectors you can see under there a good wiggle? Sometimes it's something simple like a loose connector that jiggles into and out of place.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I'd pay particular attention to the spark plug wires where they plug into the engine plug rail and also the grounds on the battery. Also, I'm assuming the 1.6 engine has a similar plug setup to the 1.4 and 1.8, check that the springs in the rubber boots are extended correctly. We have had a few members report their springs were stuck and not making good contact with the top of the spark plugs.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

WAG of course.....we are a ocean apart, but, Reading the story, if I am understanding correctly, the misfire situation is only occuring when fully warmed up, and can be, once at operating temperature, sometimes re-created under hard acceleration.
If I interpet your story, and the stored codes, I would be first moving the coils to different cylinders.
The idea here is to determine if there is a primary (12v) problem or a secondary (30KV or so) problem.
Both of these, especially when heat related, can drive a repairman (and owner) insane when trying to track down.

So, if you get the SAME codes, with the coils (put 3 and 4 in positions 1 and 2 for this test) there is a problem on the primary side of the ignition.
If the codes come up as following the coils, now on 1 and 2, then you have two coils breaking down under heat.....replace them.
If, however, the codes stay the same, then there are two potental, primary ignition failures.....the crankshaft position sensor (kind of rare but happens) or the camshaft position sensor (far more common)....in general, these will not set codes unless fully open or shorted......since this seems to happen only when hot, each component is still sending enouph of a signal to satisfy the computer, but not enouph for a adequate amount of time to achieve coil saturation.
This can be caused by a sensor failure but also by a poorly secured primary wire connection, either at the cam or crank sensors.

Here's the rub......seems like you folks in the UK have very few trained dealers.....not just Chevy.....all of them.
What I don't know is if there are any independent garages that are well versed on the late model stuff.
You may end up going this route, and, if successful, send copies of the dealers attempts and a copy of the, paid, successful repair to Corporate.
They often issue compensation.

Gonna be a freaky electrical gremlin.....mechanicals sound OK in your post.

Wish I could offer more.

Rob


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## ADK_Cruze (Dec 8, 2012)

what concerns me about this person's car is it needing a full-on alignment at 28,000 miles. I almost wonder if this car was wrecked then quickly and quietly repaired and then sold... FAST. I've been victim of shenanigans like that with a 2nd hand 88 Chevrolet Cavalier RS coupe. The car had been wrecked and cosmetically repaired and then sold... what the repairs didn't indicate was that the collision pinched the harness and did damage to the engine management side of things. Car was fine cold, but once everything came up to operating temperature, oh boy. Skip/misfire, chug, shudder, stall... and then it would be fine for 45 miles and the start back in again.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

^^^^^^^^^^^

Point well taken.....I didn't delve too much on that only because if the chassis had a problem it would have required some serious screwing around to get it aligned right.
The OP didn't indicate if the shop had any problems performing the service or any clues to the vehicles past.
Rob


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

So sorry to hear about all of these issues. Unfortunately GM Customer Care US does not work with UK customers but I can provide you with some links and phone numbers that may be helpful to you. 

Webform Info Centre

http://www.facebook.com/chevroletuk?directed_target_id=0

Twitter @Chevrolet_UK

Phone Number for UK assistance is 01144-8450-902044

I hope that this is useful information for you. If you have any questions please send me a private message and I will do my best to find an answer. 

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care (US)


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

Robby said:


> WAG of course.....we are a ocean apart, but, Reading the story, if I am understanding correctly, the misfire situation is only occuring when fully warmed up, and can be, once at operating temperature, sometimes re-created under hard acceleration.
> If I interpet your story, and the stored codes, I would be first moving the coils to different cylinders.
> The idea here is to determine if there is a primary (12v) problem or a secondary (30KV or so) problem.
> Both of these, especially when heat related, can drive a repairman (and owner) insane when trying to track down.
> ...


Pretty much, Although it is also bad when cold. No misfires, but the engine seems to severely bog down shortly after setting off. !st up to 2000RPM, change to 2nd and as it hits about 2k+ it just stops accelerating for a second (foot half down) then it'll start going more, and if I keep my foot in the same place half down and let it run right up through the revs, it jumps up in intervals, rather than a smooth 'curve' like acelleration. Concider a dynograph readout. Dyno's do not supply a big enough load on the engine so issues are not reproduced here.

The coil pack's on the 1.6 Ecotec (a16Xer engine) look like this








So no chance of me being able to swap anything around. I'v tried wiggling every cable i can find, disconnecting and completely replugging securely and no difference.

The crankshaft did occur to me, but since the vehicle has 44kmiles on it, its getting closer to a new timing belt, but not yet. but why would something like that move on such a new engine?

I'v just done a check on the vehicle regarding people thinking its been written off or damaged, nothing to show. I wish I could see who owned it in the past, if it was a courtesy car or something, then this would be a much easier task, as it would have been ragged in the past im sure.

Yep, very few trained dealers, Its a main dealer, they should know what they are doing, but to fix anything they need proof thats its actually got the fault, not just my word. 
Its just the money side, I'm fed up of spending money. Im spending enough trying to get to work and college with no car! i've only got a limited income! and whilst the car is at the dealer, im still paying for it. over £300 per month including insurance. It is at the dealer tonight (has been since monday) so they might find something in the morning. Who knows. I doubt it. 
Is it correct that the ECU clears all error codes when its turned off and on? The dealer has said that no codes at all are showing and I did not clear them using my app as I wanted them to see!

If I do get it sorted outside of the warranty, I will be sure to keep any reciepts and stuff to back up and get a refund. Its the initial outlay i'm concerned about.

I am going to ask if the car has any repairs done in the past, surely it should be on their computers, even if it was done years ago. The vehicle has lived in Scotland all its life until I purchased it.

To Jackie, Thank you for your info. I might send them a message over facebook, see if they say anything. 

Keep the info coming guys! More info on the finance would be useful. If I was just fed up completely with the car (and at the moment I dont feel safe in the vehicle) can I complain, seek legal advice and get the car returned and the payments written off?

cheers,

Jordan


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Highly doubt a cam belt problem....it would run lousy all the time.
No, the computer should hold the code till either the problem that set the code has not recurred over a specific number of full cold start to closed loop operation cycles or the problem is corrected.
If it is not holding codes then the computer itself is suspect.....very suspect.....in fact, if it isn't holding codes it has a very real problem or the memory fuse has failed.......something is causing it to lose its memory, no different than if the battery cable was removed for a few minutes.
That is a real good clue.....might want to try to jog the repair shops thought process with that thought.

As far as the finance questions.....really don't know how things work over there.
Here, you have to work it out with the manufacturer.....not the finance companies fault the car doesn't operate correctly.

Fleeting thought, beyond the computer (powertrain control module BTW) would be along the lines of the electronic throttle control....either at the pedal or at the throttle body causing a ragged response.

But again, thats a WAG......this biz with the computer not holding memory though....that really should be looked into.

Rob


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

Have you tried to use premium high octane petrol and can you find some way to check to see if you have dirt in the fuel tank, or maybe even a bit of water. Unless a tank is filled fairly often condensation can put water in the tank and this sits on the bottom and may only get into the fuel line when the petrol surges thus causing intermittent problems. You may have more than one problem. Can you join a roadside assist organization that will do car inspections?


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

You have more patience than most of us Jordan.

I don't know if it has been suggested, but take it to a well known mechanic in the area. Have them take a look at it, and ask for an estimate. Show up to the Dealer with an estimate and have them fix it. I would try and fix it myself, but becareful as to not make it obvious you tried to fix it, or else you will get the "You broke it, not our problem."

Is there any OTHER dealer you can drive to? Call GM UK at 0800 666 222 and state your concern... Start going up that ladder.


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

Robby said:


> Highly doubt a cam belt problem....it would run lousy all the time.
> No, the computer should hold the code till either the problem that set the code has not recurred over a specific number of full cold start to closed loop operation cycles or the problem is corrected.
> If it is not holding codes then the computer itself is suspect.....very suspect.....in fact, if it isn't holding codes it has a very real problem or the memory fuse has failed.......something is causing it to lose its memory, no different than if the battery cable was removed for a few minutes.
> That is a real good clue.....might want to try to jog the repair shops thought process with that thought.
> ...


Thanks for your reply, It runs lousy 99% of the time, it was about 2 months ago since it ran smooth (And oh how nice it was!) I scanned for the codes again the next time I started the car and nothing came up. Unless it was something to do with the bluetooth OBD2 adapter, but it does give you the option to clear it, but I simply took the screenshot, closed the app and unplugged my connector. Going to pick my car uip in about 5 minutes. What a surprise - We can't find anything wrong with it. I'll mention the memory fuse, that could be something to do with it. 
I'v also thought about the throttle, but the app also monitors throttle position etc and everything looks normal as I press my foot more. I'll have a look at what other things I can monitor. 
Thanks for your help 

Aussie, Yes, I'v tried 3 straight full tanks of Shell V-Power (cost me a fortune) and it ran no different. The tank is filled and emptied nearly twice a week (i do alot of miles for work) so I have ruled out a fuel/contaminent issue. I'm a member of the AA, but would have to pay a fortune to get them to look at it, and I almost guarantee they will say the same thing as the Chevrolet dealer.

iKermit, Yeah, being 19 and not one for getting angry or wound up (im pretty laid back) i'v just put up with it. What else can I do when the garage says nothing is wrong with it!? 

I've taken it to one other garage who is highly thought of and they scanned it and took it for a quick drive, thought it ran ok but very underpowered for 111BHP, but couldn't think of anything I could do. Just said a big car and small engine. It didn't noticably do any of the jumpyness at the time, but it was lacking power as usual. I can't afford to just spend money buying parts that might not be the issue, the main thing i'm thinking is Coil Pack, but that costs £250 for a new one, and noone else around my area has a cruze i could just borrow one off. 

There is one other dealer within 20 miles, but im guessing they'll say the same thing. I might try speaking to them though.


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

JordanNaylor said:


> Thanks for your reply, It runs lousy 99% of the time, it was about 2 months ago since it ran smooth (And oh how nice it was!) I scanned for the codes again the next time I started the car and nothing came up. Unless it was something to do with the bluetooth OBD2 adapter, but it does give you the option to clear it, but I simply took the screenshot, closed the app and unplugged my connector. Going to pick my car uip in about 5 minutes. What a surprise - We can't find anything wrong with it. I'll mention the memory fuse, that could be something to do with it.
> I'v also thought about the throttle, but the app also monitors throttle position etc and everything looks normal as I press my foot more. I'll have a look at what other things I can monitor.
> Thanks for your help
> 
> ...



At this point call them and open a case... It is going to be the only way to go... I am 23 yrs old, and although i am very laid back too, i've had to set my foot down and "rattle" the cage a bit at my dealer when i needed a new engine. Call GM, open a case though, lots of us have gotten a lot done by just simply getting the headquarters involved.

Keep us posted.


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## Aussie (Sep 16, 2012)

I just remembered something that happened to me once, I had a 3.8 V6 Commodore with duel fuel and on Gas it ran perfectly but every time I put it on petrol it jerked and coughed and ran awful. Took it to several mechanics and nobody could find the cause. Had this problem for months without a cure at least it ran fine on gas. Took it for a regular service and the mechanic found a split in the air intake between the MAF gauge and the engine. Went to the wreckers and bought a second pipe for $10 and everything was perfect. The computer was measuring the air going through the MAF gauge and not picking up the extra air coming in through the split and the engine was running a really lean mixture. This did not bother the gas as it doesn't use the MAF for the mixture.


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

iKermit said:


> At this point call them and open a case... It is going to be the only way to go... I am 23 yrs old, and although i am very laid back too, i've had to set my foot down and "rattle" the cage a bit at my dealer when i needed a new engine. Call GM, open a case though, lots of us have gotten a lot done by just simply getting the headquarters involved.
> 
> Keep us posted.


Had a small breakthrough, Went to collect the car this afternoon, As I drove off it did its reduced power sluggish running straight out of the door. I parked up and went back in and said, its running crap already, someone hop in and feel it. As he was walking out he said "instead of faffing about, i'm just going to order you a new coil pack, we'll try that and then atleast we'll have narrowed it down if that is not the cause"

If that does not cure it, I'll be ringing head office and opening a case. Thanks for your advice.




Aussie said:


> I just remembered something that happened to me once, I had a 3.8 V6 Commodore with duel fuel and on Gas it ran perfectly but every time I put it on petrol it jerked and coughed and ran awful. Took it to several mechanics and nobody could find the cause. Had this problem for months without a cure at least it ran fine on gas. Took it for a regular service and the mechanic found a split in the air intake between the MAF gauge and the engine. Went to the wreckers and bought a second pipe for $10 and everything was perfect. The computer was measuring the air going through the MAF gauge and not picking up the extra air coming in through the split and the engine was running a really lean mixture. This did not bother the gas as it doesn't use the MAF for the mixture.


Sounds similar, if the new coil pack does not solve the issue, I may try this. I have looked at the pipe and there seems to be no issues anywhere along it. Is it possible MAS sensors just go duff? Cold temperatures etc?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The good news is your dealership acknowledges the problem. Sometimes that's the hardest part to getting a problem fixed.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

JordanNaylor said:


> Had a small breakthrough, Went to collect the car this afternoon, As I drove off it did its reduced power sluggish running straight out of the door. I parked up and went back in and said, its running crap already, someone hop in and feel it. As he was walking out he said "instead of faffing about, i'm just going to order you a new coil pack, we'll try that and then atleast we'll have narrowed it down if that is not the cause"
> 
> If that does not cure it, I'll be ringing head office and opening a case. Thanks for your advice.
> 
> ...


Hey JordanNaylor,

Glad to hear you had a breakthrough with your dealership. Like iKermit said, if you need us to start a case for you we'd be more than happy to do so. Either message us here on the forum or you can contact us by phone. Please keep us updated.

Regards

Amber N.
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

What would opening up a case entail? Like what would you do to sort the issue out? Just I don't want much hassle, I hate being a pain, but I do need this sorting! 
I will let you know how the car performs when the new coil pack is installed. I'm hoping it will sort out all of my issues! 

I'll keep you in the know  thank you for your help so far guys!


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

So, new coil pack fitted. For the first 20 miles it was great, like a different car to drive, it was far more powerful, had noticable more torque allowing me to keep the car in lower revs (change at 1800rpm instead of 2500+ when it doesnt run properly as it doesn't accellerate enough below that) But after that, its back to how it was before. 

Sluggish, slow, jerky power delivery. 

I did some testing last night, unplugged the Lambda sensor and went for a short drive. No warning lights came on and it drove the same. Took off the pipe to the air filter from the throttle body, ran a little more hesitant but like the car is when its cold anyway. But no warning lights for the air mass sensor not having a flow of air past it.

I have no idea what to do. There could be so much wrong with it from cam-sensors to ECU. I presume all I can do is ring up Chevrolet and complain.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

It appears you and the shop may be on the right track.....getting close to resolution.
You indicate a immediate and to some degree, best yet operation for the first half hour.....so...the next component that is prone to heat soak failure is cam and or crank position sensors.....verbal complaining fixes nothing....and now you have a mechanic that appears to be trying hard to not let your problem beat him.

I know...it sucks..get it back to that mechanic....currently he thinks it is resolved.

Rob


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

You have nothing to lose so keep trying at it. BE NICE, don't be one of those disgruntled customers that thinks they are the only ones deserving of special treatmeant.

You will be fine


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

I have decided to give up.

There doesn't look like any reasonable way to get my car sorted, which is a shame but things like this happen. You win some, you loose some. When my insurance for the year is up on the Cruze (Mid August) I will trade it for something else. I had a look around a 2012 Audi A6 S-line 2.0TDI today and I have almost fallen in love with it. I start my new job in the next 2 weeks giving me a much bigger budget to get something, really want bluetooth and built-in satnav which are not available on UK Cruze.

Also a Focus ST-3 wouldn't go a miss, i'd like something with a bit of grunt behind it!


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

JordanNaylor said:


> I have decided to give up.
> 
> There doesn't look like any reasonable way to get my car sorted, which is a shame but things like this happen. You win some, you loose some. When my insurance for the year is up on the Cruze (Mid August) I will trade it for something else. I had a look around a 2012 Audi A6 S-line 2.0TDI today and I have almost fallen in love with it. I start my new job in the next 2 weeks giving me a much bigger budget to get something, really want bluetooth and built-in satnav which are not available on UK Cruze.
> 
> Also a Focus ST-3 wouldn't go a miss, i'd like something with a bit of grunt behind it!


Jackie: cc: Mr. Reuss. Here's another lost customer for him and it's due to Service.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Try a higher octane fuel I put 94 yesterday and holy crap car runs soo smooth, the standard 87 is okay for hwy only but if you have a turbo Cruze I would recommend at least 91 try it see if it helps


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

It also sounds like you could have a cracked piston because a new car should not be losing oil as you said u were at half on the stick which to mean your oil is going somewhere and would explain why it runs good until the oil bungs up your spark plugs again, with similar symptoms of people in there 1.4T cruzes have had all these problems and was a cracked piston


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Try a higher octane fuel I put 94 yesterday and holy crap car runs soo smooth, the standard 87 is okay for hwy only but if you have a turbo Cruze I would recommend at least 91 try it see if it helps


Tried that, no difference really. Ran about 4 tanks of the most premium fuel we have around, Shell V-Power.



CyclonicWrath said:


> It also sounds like you could have a cracked piston because a new car should not be losing oil as you said u were at half on the stick which to mean your oil is going somewhere and would explain why it runs good until the oil bungs up your spark plugs again, with similar symptoms of people in there 1.4T cruzes have had all these problems and was a cracked piston


I could understand this being true if it was all the time, but this would not cause problems intermittently like my issues are. No oil residue anywhere (took spark plugs out earlier today to check for any abnormalities)
I've only got the Naturally Aspirated 1.6.




Jim Frye said:


> Jackie: cc: Mr. Reuss. Here's another lost customer for him and it's due to Service.


I really wanted to like the Cruze, I tried and tried but its not worked. If the engine was better i'm sure I would. If they put the 2.0L Turbo from the VXR range in the cruze, I can almost guarantee they would be flying out of the showrooms. Its just a shoddy GM engine in it at current.


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## CyclonicWrath (May 14, 2013)

Get a video camera and record this problem send it o gm and try and get it fixed that way at least you will have proof


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## JordanNaylor (Feb 3, 2013)

CyclonicWrath said:


> Get a video camera and record this problem send it o gm and try and get it fixed that way at least you will have proof


You can't really tell mate. Not on a video anyway. Its only noticable by sitting the in the car and feeling that it seems to be stuttering under accelleration. no noise or visuals to go with it.

I seem to have maybe narrowed the issue down. When I remove the '01 AC Clutch' relay from the fuse box, the symptoms almost completely dissapear. Enough for me to be happy driving around in it. I put the relay back in and even when air conditioning is not on, not even the fan (which is how i have it normally, dont use the heating and stuff all that much) the symptoms come back. Instead of it being 9/10 times it runs bad, with the relay out, its 9/10 times it runs well, and i only get the occasional drive where it runs bad.

Now I don't know whether to take it to them with this info or just leave it concidering i'm only having the car for 2 more months. 

I might put a new thread up about this air conditioning issue. 

Its most annoying that i found the issue the day before we in the UK have entered the first bit of dry, hot fine weather for about 11 Months, and Air Con would be fantastic.


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