# Logans SPL Build Trillogy



## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Greetings everyone, I have gathered you here today to share with you the journey of my SPL build. Here I will post pictures, write ups, the challenges I face, information worth sharing, and to document my progress. I will be posting on this thread, hopefully the forum system will allow me to add new material when ever. If it doesn't I will just post it to keep this thread going! If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! Also, I will be posting my questions here as well. In the likelihood that no one will read this shitty post I will ask my questions in a different thread.

Background of me: I like to and not limited to:breaking ****, causing chaos, making women cry with subsonic frequencies and lastly, making interior fire suppression attacks(firefighting).
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What I have done to my car as of November 8th, 2014.

Car: 2011 Chevy Cruze LT 1.4T

Installed a double din headunit 2 years ago, didn't like it and ripped it back out.
BIG 3
Numerous amp and subwoofer systems. (Current build is: Sundown x15 sitting in a 4.5^3 box tuned @ 31hz wired at .5ohm)
Sound deadened the trunk, 2 layers of 80mil GT Mat
Stinger Volt Meter
Emergency Light Bar installed on the dash
Ran over a deer.
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Build plans:

2 Sundown Audio z.4 18 woofers. The will be sitting in a wall with roughly 15^3 of air tuned at 29hz.
4 Incriminator Audio 6.5 co-axial door speakers
Double din head unit... No clue which one I will choose yet.
2 XS Power d3400's (if they fit, Not too sure what the dimensions are on the battery tray.)
Taramps 5k Mono-block Amplifier.
Sundown Audio 50.4 Class A/B Amplifier for door speakers.

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Possible challenges I will face:

Figuring a way how to run the speaker wire to the doors due to that **** connector thing in the way.
Making custom battery terminals for the new battery. Ill need to do this because there will be multiple 0g runs
Money.

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LET THE BUILDING COMMENCE!

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I apologize for my choppy righting, I type as it comes to mind.

November 8th 2014, Current progress.

I have ordered a 200A alternator that does a little over 200 amps at 2000 RPMs. Now that the power source is some what taken care of I can finally start this dream build. The alternator should be here sometime in the next week and a half. I also have ordered a couple ANL fuses to fuse the alternator cable as well as all of the amps. I will need to order a battery in the next few days once I know what will fit the battery tray. I would like xs d3400's, but who knows.. Along to go with those batteries I will need custom battery terminals so I can have about 4 runs of 0g connected to them. The wall its self is still in the designing faze, I haven't even taken the back seats out yet. Besides all of that, today I sound deadened the 2 back doors. 

Until next time, subscribe or do what ever you have to to keep up with this build!

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****November 9th, 2014 Update*****

Hey guys! Alright so today I got a couple things knocked out. I have decided that I am going with XS Power d3400 Batteries with custom battery terminals that allow me to have 4 0g and 2 4g wire going directly into them. I ordered the batteries and all of the fuses as well as the fuse holders. Hopefully tomorrow I can knock out sound deadening the 2 front doors. Apparently my area is supposed to be hit with a winter typhoon.. Thank god for the fire departments bay I can install in so I wont freeze to death.

Till next time followers!

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Awesome dude. I went the SQ route with dual 18" subs but this should be quite a sight. They aren't easy to fit in there but it's not impossible. I had to rear fire mine into the cabin with a trunk baffle. 

Just how do you plan to make 15 cubic feet of tuned airspace? Planning on using the trunk as an enclosure? I'd caution against that as you will warp the body panels of the car in short order and it will not look pretty. 

Still, looking forward to the results. Let me know if you have any questions as I have a very in-depth knowledge of acoustics.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Awesome dude. I went the SQ route with dual 18" subs but this should be quite a sight. They aren't easy to fit in there but it's not impossible. I had to rear fire mine into the cabin with a trunk baffle.
> 
> Just how do you plan to make 15 cubic feet of tuned airspace? Planning on using the trunk as an enclosure? I'd caution against that as you will warp the body panels of the car in short order and it will not look pretty.
> 
> Still, looking forward to the results. Let me know if you have any questions as I have a very in-depth knowledge of acoustics.


This isn't going in the trunk. They call it a wall for a simple reason, you build a wall behind the front seats. Heres a picture to show you an idea of what it will look like.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

loganste123 said:


> This isn't going in the trunk. They call it a wall for a simple reason, you build a wall behind the front seats. Heres a picture to show you an idea of what it will look like.


Ah, I see what you mean. I set up a trunk baffle so that's what I envisioned when you said wall.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Ah, I see what you mean. I set up a trunk baffle so that's what I envisioned when you said wall.


Yes! Now I do have a question about amplifying my door speakers. Its not a technical question about what I would need or anything like that. Its more of, how the **** do I run the speaker wire passed the connection in the door? Thanks Xtreme


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

loganste123 said:


> Yes! Now I do have a question about amplifying my door speakers. Its not a technical question about what I would need or anything like that. Its more of, how the **** do I run the speaker wire passed the connection in the door? Thanks Xtreme


There's a little gap at the top of the connector. I just stuck an 18 gauge wire through there. 

If you needed more than 18 gauge for an open baffle midbass driver that you cross no lower than 80hz, I'd be genuinely surprised.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> There's a little gap at the top of the connector. I just stuck an 18 gauge wire through there.
> 
> If you needed more than 18 gauge for an open baffle midbass driver that you cross no lower than 80hz, I'd be genuinely surprised.


Sweet now I have a starting point. I know yesterday when I was sound deadening the back doors I believe I broke one of the connectors trying to figure it out. Now it wont go back in.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Updated.


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## bsumpter (Dec 18, 2013)

Logan that doesn't look broke from the pic. See the black tab on the top, there is another on the bottom. Pull it out, place the rubber boot back on then should just press in to install.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

bsumpter said:


> Logan that doesn't look broke from the pic. See the black tab on the top, there is another on the bottom. Pull it out, place the rubber boot back on then should just press in to install.


Yea thats what I thought as well. Nope I tried that when I broke it.. When you press the tab and press it back in it just pops back out. When I pull my seatbelt panel off Ill take a look at it.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

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November 13th, 2014


Alright guys, first steps towards the build have been completed! Last night I installed my xs d3400 with tool maker metalworkz CNc machined terminals. I can not describe how much of a bitch it was... The battery it self did fit, I had about 3 inches length wise to spare.. But the thing that did not fit was the factory fuse box due to the placement and size of the terminals. But I pushed the battery as far to the front of the battery tray as I could and just kind of wedged the the fuse box behind the battery. I have picture to follow and show how it is all placed.

Also, my KnuKoncept Krystal RCAs came in today! These things are nice, gold plated and shielded for quality protection. All I have to do is take the time to run them as well as buy a new head unit.

One of the biggest problems I had with this install was removing the factory battery cable. I could not figure it out. It looks like its ran through a head light connection or something. I wasnt to concerned so I just tucked it away

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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

meet the KKK RCAS!


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

hificruzer226 said:


> meet the KKK RCAS!


RESPECT THE KKK RCAS. They sure improve electrical conductivity as well as clarity for sure. Cant wait to install them.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

November 16th, 2014 Update!

Alright followers great news. The build is moving right along. I have taken out the back seats which was a pain in the ass if I must say. Once they were out I was amazed by all the **** and sand that collected under there for the 3 years. I also have sound deadened the bottom of the trunk. That came out nicely and I only have the front passenger door to sound deaden next then possibly the floors and roof. Battery is adjusting nicely to its new home and I love it, and I love not having back seats! 

Next on the list is to install the new alternator when it arrives, I need to add a bigger fuse to the 0g coming off of it now.

Once the alternator is in, I will run more 0g to replace the current run.

THEN ITS BOX BUILDING TIME!!!!
Next, im guessing is the head unit as well as door speakers.

One thing that I came across when taking out the back seats was I also took out the airbags.. Now every time I start my car it beeps at me and tells me to service my air bags then it goes away. My box designer says I will be able to retain them so I wont have to deal with it.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

November 21st, 2014

Big new guys! Alternator has been installed! Let me say at first you think its going to be challenge because of the stuff you have to remove to get to the alternator. You have to take out the air filter, jack up the engine from the floor to keep it held in place then remove all of the engine mounting brackets just to get to the belt tension-er and the alternator. I ran into 2 major problems during this install today, thank god I had the departments engineer by my side. The mechanism that keeps tension on the belt is a son of a bitch.. There is a little piece of sheet metal in the middle of it to keep it coming from unsprung. Well the factory found a easy way to save money and once you take off that mechanism it breaks. You have to use a vice grip to compress the spring all the way to where a little hole in the piece of metal is and put something in it to keep it from becoming unsprung. So that was taken care of. Then when we got it all put back together, big moment!!! Click, click click...nothing. Come to find out, when you install a new alternator or big 3 KEEP THE FACTORY WIRE ON THE ALTERNATOR. Somewhere in the car full of splices, there is a splice that helps start the engine.. But in all, LETS PROCEED WITH THE WALL! Still waiting on my **** box guy who is taking foreverr... hopefully I will get to start building the wall next week! 

PS: Let me get some feed back guys!! Haven't heard much from yall!


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Alright, it is November 25th, 2014 and I was heated earlier..

Heads up, when you call me a bitch when you read this post, I slept with your mother.

Alright so I ordered 50ft of OFC 0g wire. Sweet! I was going to use light pink for my power wire, and light blue for my grounds. Well I ordered my light blue awhile ago, about 2 weeks. It got shipped, then fedex lost it. Great. So I decided not to do anything for about 5 days to see if it would appear again and it did not. So I called and today, (the 6th day) it showed up. Yay  75 degree sunny weather, its a nice day to run all these wires!! I opened the box and its the wrong color. Oooh boy I was pissed. Mainly because I got the wrong color and it wouldn't look as nice, but I was also pissed that a such repuitable company could **** something up so easily. I got dark blue instead of light blue if you were curious. So I called the company, raised **** and they decided it would be best to just ship me what I originally wanted and let me go on my way. So, I have this 50ft of OFC 0g blue wire that I have sitting in front of me. If any of you guys are interested, there is nothing wrong with it, just take it off my hands for the right price. Let me know because I will never use it.. I do not get enough builds that require 0g, actually I never have besides mine. 80$ shipped. Will negotiate.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

loganste123 said:


> Alright, it is November 25th, 2014 and I was heated earlier..
> 
> Heads up, when you call me a bitch when you read this post, I slept with your mother.
> 
> Alright so I ordered 50ft of OFC 0g wire. Sweet! I was going to use light pink for my power wire, and light blue for my grounds. Well I ordered my light blue awhile ago, about 2 weeks. It got shipped, then fedex lost it. Great. So I decided not to do anything for about 5 days to see if it would appear again and it did not. So I called and today, (the 6th day) it showed up. Yay  75 degree sunny weather, its a nice day to run all these wires!! I opened the box and its the wrong color. Oooh boy I was pissed. Mainly because I got the wrong color and it wouldn't look as nice, but I was also pissed that a such repuitable company could **** something up so easily. I got dark blue instead of light blue if you were curious. So I called the company, raised **** and they decided it would be best to just ship me what I originally wanted and let me go on my way. So, I have this 50ft of OFC 0g blue wire that I have sitting in front of me. If any of you guys are interested, there is nothing wrong with it, just take it off my hands for the right price. Let me know because I will never use it.. I do not get enough builds that require 0g, actually I never have besides mine. 80$ shipped. Will negotiate.


I love this post


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

loganste123 said:


> RESPECT THE KKK RCAS. They sure improve electrical conductivity as well as clarity for sure. Cant wait to install them.


compared to ???unless they are pure silver..


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Gold not silver! gold is the best conductive metal for electronics I believe. Hahaha I sure was pissed about getting dark blue wire


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

fyi... silver is a better conductor than gold...


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## TheMaterial (Sep 5, 2012)

hificruzer226 said:


> fyi... silver is a better conductor than gold...


Fact, but in the long run Gold would be a better conductor. Silver will oxidize like crazy in a car and increase resistance on the line.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Correct, silver oxidizes like crazy when weathered.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

November 30th, 2014

ALRIGHT! So, some progress on 2 days ago what I had completed. I have ran my 2 0g power wires as well as a ground to the back. 3 runs of 0g wire is A BITCH. I only ran 3 because thats all the room I had for and Im just going to ground a battery to the frame. Heres how it got done. 

1. Limber up, you will be elbow deep in car ***** for awhile. 
2. take out the screws near the firewall behind the brake pedal. Only for automatic cars. This is where the clutch cable is ran on manual cars. This space is just big enough for 3 runs once you pop the cover held in by the 2 screws out.

so in regards to running the wires, I did not remove any front seats or and carpet, just man handled the carpet. The wires are ran under the front seat, around the back air vents and up the seat. This was a paint because theres no extra room. But I did notice that my car had an already cut slit in the carpet under the front seat that allowed me to start the run of further back towards the end of the car. Getting it around the air vents was tricky because theres no room. I took a razor blade and made a horizontal cut at the top of the carpet where the floor air vent is. This is because it made my life a whole lot easier moving the wires and if I ever take them out you wont see that little cut, it blends right in. 

Next on the list is to hopefully sound deaden the roof which I am not looking forward too. For some reason I have a feeling that I may break something like usual or just get pissed off with these **** panels. 

After the head liner hopefully I can run my speaker wires to the doors.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

What no video ? you did all of this hard work with out a camera on hand to capture just how tough it is to run wires in a cruzen ...

Good Luck with the rest of yer Build !


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

brian v said:


> What no video ? you did all of this hard work with out a camera on hand to capture just how tough it is to run wires in a cruzen ...
> 
> Good Luck with the rest of yer Build !


Running 3 0g wires is a little different..


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

January 2, 2015!

Hello everyone, I haven't posted much simply because the wall process is being slowed down. But as far as I know, I am the first one to build a wall in the chevy cruze. Im pretty excited about that so that's my motivation. But here is a little update: Just installed the new head unit, as well as ran 6 channels of RCAs. Let me tell you one thing about installing a head unit in a chevy cruze, not only is it expensive because of the wiring harnesses you need to retain all of your steering wheel controls but there is absolutely no space to work with. I had to dremel out about 40% of the housing the actual head unit sits in to make room for all these wires. I installed the Kenwood dx 371 with the GMOS-044 and ASWC-1 adapters. 

Next what I have to do is run my power cable to the front doors, and this is what im going to have trouble with simply due to the location and I have never done it before. If anyone has any suggestions on how to do this please let me know!

Finally the wall! I plan on building it sometime around the 7th of this month. I will post pictures of the box and box design but will not release the cutout sheet. If you are interested in purchasing the cut out sheet, it will be $50. So whats going in the wall? Well, the wall will consist of a top port 201^3 of port and 16^3ft after displacement!! As well as 2 sundown zv4 18"s on 6,000 watts. Its going to be louuud.


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## loganste123 (Dec 31, 2013)

Ayo!!! Sorry I have been lying dormant for awhile, Ive been waiting on the guy with the tools to help me cut the pieces of the wall out.. So heres what is done, the wall is built (outside of the car) and all panels have been put back in and the head unit is in! This is coming along nicely so far  My next task I will tackle is actually building the wall in the car and securing it to the the floor via seatbelt posts. 

My next concern is door speakers.. I would like to put crescendo pwk 6.5" Mids in, but my question is will they fit? Anyone know? The measurements for the pwk 6.5 is:


*Overall Diameter: 6 7/8”*​  *Mounting Depth: 3 1/8”*​  *Hole Cutout: 6”*​  *Flange Width: 7/16”*​  *Flushmount Trim Height: 3/8*​
[h=2][/h] 




I haven't been able to find ANY information on the max measurements in the doors would be. And It has been way to cold to do re-pull the panels off. If you have any information reguarding the max door speaker sizes let me know. Till then heres the a couple pictures of the box!


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