# Wanting to change eco to z-link



## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

There was a topic posted here about converting to rear disc brakes awhile back, they mentioned two different rear axles used int he cruze. Sounded like if you had a 2011-2012 1LT,2LT or LTZ(the axle with the zlink) you could convert to rear discs(only the 1LT has drums of those three). 
That would mean the LS & Eco manual are using a different axle. 

IN 2013 the 1LT nolonger get the zlink unless you buy the RS package.


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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

The main beam is the same, but for what the parts would cost you would be better off looking for a complete rear axle assembly from a junkyard


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

NBrehm said:


> The main beam is the same, but for what the parts would cost you would be better off looking for a complete rear axle assembly from a junkyard


Yea thia was my idea so get an ltz and I can get rear disc also

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Found everything ill need to do rear disc and z-link for 300 without shipping so this will be my next mod. And there will be videos photos and a diy.

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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

Its held in by 4 bolts 2 in the frame rails and 2 on the axle/ spring perch, my advise buy a zlink somewhere and see where you need holes and go from there the 2011 ls has zlink so the only difference in axles could be the eco

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Yea I printed a install procedure from mitchell it bolts right up to the stock eco axel with one bracket and two studs into each knuckle dosnt look to hard I hope.

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## 20131pz69 (Oct 22, 2012)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Found everything ill need to do rear disc and z-link for 300 without shipping so this will be my next mod. And there will be videos photos and a diy.
> 
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:question: If you do this, won't it mess up the brake balance/ stabilitrak etc?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

I wouldn't think so since mine has stability trac and they should be tge same set up

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## NBrehm (Jun 27, 2011)

20131pz69 said:


> :question: If you do this, won't it mess up the brake balance/ stabilitrak etc?


Brake balance should be controlled in the ABS block by the EBCM, there is no longer a proportioning valve to worry about so it should be able to adjust. If it doesn't simply a matter of swapping EBCM's


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## 20131pz69 (Oct 22, 2012)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> I wouldn't think so since mine has stability trac and they should be tge same set up
> 
> Sent from my Droid using AutoGuide.Com Free App


i know the brake master/ slave cylinder capacities/ pressures would be different- that would be an issue to consider for best performance (you may get the wrong fluid pressure to the rear as discs need more pressure than drums to operate). The rear discs are paired with larger rotors on the front (at least on the 2LT). That would also throw off your F/R brake balance, right off the bat. You would not be in danger, but i believe your braking performance would be compromised unless you deal with all the factors. I considered a rear drum to disk swap on my civic, but decided against it due to all that was necessary (design/ install of correct size slave cylinder/ proportioning valve). 
I don't know if the ABS/ Stabilitrac/ EBD is smart enough to self- tune for the changes. Need a GM tech/ expert to chime in here. 
BTW- this is way more complex than say a drum to disc swap on a 60s muscle car, because they are dumb (no ECU governing the brake system). You also get swap kits that are designed to maintain proper F/R balance. The swap will improve your handling, but may harm your braking performance, unless it is done right ...


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## 20131pz69 (Oct 22, 2012)

NBrehm said:


> Brake balance should be controlled in the ABS block by the EBCM, there is no longer a proportioning valve to worry about so it should be able to adjust. If it doesn't simply a matter of swapping EBCM's


Thanks bro! That means the ECU is smarter than i thought, nice! Does this care for the higher fluid pressure needed at the rear after the swap?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

I'm going to see if the master cylinders have diffrent numbers.

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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

20131pz69 said:


> i know the brake master/ slave cylinder capacities/ pressures would be different...
> 
> ...*The rear discs are paired with larger rotors on the front *(at least on the 2LT). That would also throw off your F/R brake balance...


Can you verify that there are two different brake rotor diameters used on the Cruze? I don't think there are. The only difference in the brakes from one model to the next is the rear either being drums or discs. A quick check on GMPartshouse shows that discs, calipers, brake boosters and master cylinders all carry the exact same price between an LS and an LTZ. True, the part numbers are not listed, but the fact that the prices are all identical is a pretty good indicator that the parts are exactly the same. They also look the same, and I've never seen anything from GM indicating a front brake upgrade when equipping a model with the RS package which includes a rear disc upgrade on some models.

I'll bet you a beer that the master cylinder, brake booster, and EBCM are all the same parts in all trim levels of Cruze. I'll also bet you a beer that the "braking torque:line pressure" ratio are the same for both the drum and disc brake setups, as is the programming and calibration of the ABS equipment.

Just because a disc brake setup looks more impressive than a drum, don't assume that it offers more braking torque per line pressure. The calipers used on rear disc brake setups have very small diameter pistons, and this diameter is determined by the desired front to rear brake balance. OEMs do everything in their power to eliminate the possibility of oversteer (rear loosing traction before the front) in any situation, and this includes braking. To accomplish this, the front to rear braking bias is set up so that the front brakes will lock up way before the rears will in just about any concievable situation.

OEMs also do everything they can to commonize parts between models, so it would make sense that they would design the rear disc and drum setups with the same braking torque as it lets them keep the rest of the braking system common on all models. I'll gladly be proven wrong if someone would like to do a part number breakdown of the front brakes with their local GM parts counter.

What rear discs offer that is significant over drums comes in three parts… one being fade resistance under repeated hard stops, two being improved pedal feel with shorter take-up, and three being cosmetic appeal along with the "perception" of higher performance. If an LTZ with rear disc brakes stops 60-0 any shorter than an LS with drums, the difference is tires and suspension, not braking power.

If you drive on the street chances are you'll never benefit from rear discs over drums. If you put a high priority on pedal feel and cosmetics, or are planning to lap your car at a racetrack, then by all means go for rear discs. I would love rear discs on my Eco, but I will admit that my reasoning for that would be 60% cosmetics and 40% brake pedal feel, with a whopping 0% for improved braking performance as this is a daily driver that will never see the need for improved rear brake fade resistance.

ANYWAY, to steer this thread back on topic, it would be nice to see a writeup on the Z-Link conversion on the base suspension cars, as well as some objective feedback as to the benefits and/or tradeoffs. Weighing all the parts involved in the installation would be nice also, so we frugal Eco owners can have some idea of how much weight this will add to the car. Thanks in advance!


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

To get back to brakes as this will also be involed in changing the z-link the master cylinder says all applocable models acdelco number 174-1165 and aftermarket number is 13286445 I don't know who makes the aftermarket because Mitchell repair dosnt tell me.
Edit brake rotors are same also. Acdelco number is 177-1054
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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Maybe I missed it, but does one need to go with rear disc brakes in order to install the z-link rear suspension?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Maybe I missed it, but does one need to go with rear disc brakes in order to install the z-link rear suspension?


It dosnt look like it but since I'm already there and ehat I'm gwtting is everything in the rear Suspension I am just goin to change it all.

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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> It dosnt look like it but since I'm already there and ehat I'm gwtting is everything in the rear Suspension I am just goin to change it all.
> 
> Sent from my Droid using AutoGuide.Com Free App


What would be the cost of this upgrade should someone choose to keep their drum brakes?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Depends on were you get it I guess I'm paying 300 plus shipping fir the entire rear Suspension including disc brakes from a salvage yard I have found about 5 but tge prices vary all the way to 700

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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

Probably just the cost of the axle. Change the hubs/backing plates on over. 1LT's have Z-link suspensions with drums.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

You can just buy the z-link parts and add them to your stock rear end looks like the knuckles are the same from an eco to an ltz I can ask the guy I'm buying mine from and see if he can just get tge z-link parts

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

sciphi said:


> Probably just the cost of the axle. Change the hubs/backing plates on over. 1LT's have Z-link suspensions with drums.


Don't even think you need to change the hubs let me find out tho for sure
Hubs are the same also acdelco part number rw20-133
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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

The only thing I see that mght be a concern is the shock strut assembly they say w/ sport and w/o sport contact dealership with your vin to find out is what Mitchell repair says.

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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

But this is going to be a fun project and hopefully I will be the first eco with the z-link and disc brakes.

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## 20131pz69 (Oct 22, 2012)

awesome- I'm sure it'll be fun! Keep us posted & we will help as we can ...


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

20131pz69 said:


> awesome- I'm sure it'll be fun! Keep us posted & we will help as we can ...


Yea I will as soon as it comes in and it should be all bolt on.

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## crashcraddock (Jun 16, 2013)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Yea I will as soon as it comes in and it should be all bolt on.
> 
> Sent from my Droid using AutoGuide.Com Free App


Did this thread get picked up somewhere else?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

crashcraddock said:


> Did this thread get picked up somewhere else?


No what happend was I got screwed spent $300 and never got a **** thing.

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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> No what happend was I got screwed spent $300 and never got a **** thing.


!

So they took your payment and never sent the parts? Man, THAT SUCKS.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> !
> 
> So they took your payment and never sent the parts? Man, THAT SUCKS.


Yup now I'm waiting on my junkyard to get the parts yea don't trust some interenet parts finder websites they help you find junkyards around the country.

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

Why change to z-link? Can't you use the UR rear strut and tower bars for the same effect?


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

I'm pretty sure the Z-Link will give me added handling with UR bars.

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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> I'm pretty sure the Z-Link will give me added handling with UR bars.


 Yes the z-link (watts link) will provide superior location of the axle over the non z-link axle. The UR bars will increase stiffness of the chassis so the combo should really be nice.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

blk88verde said:


> Yes the z-link (watts link) will provide superior location of the axle over the non z-link axle. The UR bars will increase stiffness of the chassis so the combo should really be nice.


For what I'm building my for I want all the coner handing possible.

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## giantsnation (Oct 11, 2012)

IMO, if its a daily driving this seems like a waste. But if you building a track car, might be a nice combo.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

giantsnation said:


> IMO, if its a daily driving this seems like a waste. But if you building a track car, might be a nice combo.


Yea I'm building to be a track car but for now its my DD autocross car and maybe laping.

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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> Yea I'm building to be a track car but for now its my DD autocross car and maybe laping.


 - I would be curious to see how this turns out, however as much as I would love the z-link and rear disc brakes - I won't be modifying my ECO, beyond UR bolt ons. Quite a few years ago I had lowered a car/ bigger sway bars with heim joints, etc for handling / autocross - it was fun on smooth roads - but would bottom out pretty easy - I am not going there with the Cruze.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

giantsnation said:


> IMO, if its a daily driving this seems like a waste. But if you building a track car, might be a nice combo.


I tested a 2013 without the zlink on a road I drive on daily.... needless to say in my daily driving the zlink does make a serious improvement in rear stability in some types of corners(ones with elevation change were most noticeable). 

I realize most people driving they will only encounter a few corners per day, but the roads where I live are twisty! One thirty mile drive(oneway) I take has at least 4 corners per mile, so at least 120corners. I'll take any improvement the z-link makes! 

This route is always full of fast cars, I had a corvette driver stop and ask me about my car one day after I was keeping up with him on all the corners. He seemed genuinely impressed with the cornering ability of my cruze & more surprised it gets close to 40mpg hwy(that day was closer to 30mpg, since in the straight sections we were going 75mph+).


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

spacedout said:


> I tested a 2013 without the zlink on a road I drive on daily.... needless to say in my daily driving the zlink does make a serious improvement in rear stability in some types of corners(ones with elevation change were most noticeable).
> 
> I realize most people driving they will only encounter a few corners per day, but the roads where I live are twisty! One thirty mile drive(oneway) I take has at least 4 corners per mile, so at least 120corners. I'll take any improvement the z-link makes!
> 
> This route is always full of fast cars, I had a corvette driver stop and ask me about my car one day after I was keeping up with him on all the corners. He seemed genuinely impressed with the cornering ability of my cruze & more surprised it gets close to 40mpg hwy(that day was closer to 30mpg, since in the straight sections we were going 75mph+).


It's a great little chassis for handling. There's a back road I used to take near where I went to school with a couple sharp corners with elevation changes right in the middle (coming over a hill or down into a valley). My Volvo had a semi-independent rear suspension with a delta link design, but the rear end would start sliding out sideways if you pushed it too hard. The Cruze went through the same road at higher speeds on worse tires with NO drama at all - I had a blast. No crazy turbo lag coming out of corners either =D


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## CruzeTech (Mar 23, 2012)

I thought about doing this also. Interesting to see how this turns out. I saw the rear end disc and z-link for about $600 shipped. In the meantime, I have the whiteline rear sway bar installed, and the difference in insane. 


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

What about adding rubber coil spring spacers? Those would help a little by effectively stiffening the coil spring when it compresses, and they're $20 for both sides, $80-100 if springing for the polyurethane spring rubbers used in NASCAR.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

sciphi said:


> What about adding rubber coil spring spacers? Those would help a little by effectively stiffening the coil spring when it compresses, and they're $20 for both sides, $80-100 if springing for the polyurethane spring rubbers used in NASCAR.


You have a link.

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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> You have a link.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Coil spring spacer: Superior 18-1901 Donut Style Coil Spring Spacer : Amazon.com : Automotive

I picked up two of these at AutoZone for $10 each. For that price, it's worth a shot.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

sciphi said:


> Coil spring spacer: Superior 18-1901 Donut Style Coil Spring Spacer : Amazon.com : Automotive
> 
> I picked up two of these at AutoZone for $10 each. For that price, it's worth a shot.


Is there a specific size and this moght raise the veichle.

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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Here's a good page about the Watts link suspension:

Watt's linkage - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The animation shows the linkage as deployed on a live axle suspension, with the rod ends fixed to the chassis and the center link pivot attached to the differential. The Cruze deployment differs in that the rod ends are attached to each side of the suspension and the center link pivot is attached to the chassis.

The effect is the same; lateral suspension stiffness increases, making tire control much more precise under cornering loads.

For example, when turning left in the Cruze, lateral forces are trying to push both wheels to the left. The left wheel is pulling on the link and the right wheel is pushing on it. Because both wheels are acting on the link in different directions, their forces cancel out. Only if both wheels are pushing or pulling at the same time will the link alow free lateral movement.

Because of the geometry of a trailing arm suspension, having only two main bushings ahead of the suspension to control deflection, the Z-Link can make a big improvement in suspension control. I would be interested in adding this to my Eco as long as it doesn't weigh a ton. If all the parts were only 20-25 lbs. or less I'd say it would be a nice upgrade.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

According to gmpartsdepartment, the main parts (L/R link arms, center link and support bar) should come to around $190. Assuming the mounting points for the bar and link arms are present on the Eco's body/suspension beam, why not just order the parts and bolt them in?

2012 CHEVROLET CRUZE Parts - GM Parts Department: Buy genuine GM auto parts & aftermarket accessories at wholesale prices.

EDIT: Looks like there are two different suspension beams, one with and one withouth watts linkage. They must omit the mounting points as a cost savings...


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

Blue Angel said:


> According to gmpartsdepartment, the main parts (L/R link arms, center link and support bar) should come to around $190. Assuming the mounting points for the bar and link arms are present on the Eco's body/suspension beam, why not just order the parts and bolt them in?
> 
> 2012 CHEVROLET CRUZE Parts - GM Parts Department: Buy genuine GM auto parts & aftermarket accessories at wholesale prices.
> 
> EDIT: Looks like there are two different suspension beams, one with and one withouth watts linkage. They must omit the mounting points as a cost savings...


Yea I kooked at going that route but I want the rea disc brakes also.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

In 5 years or so this car will be a full track day car but being street legal. Will only have one seat unless a female wants a ride and a full roll cage and most of all tje chassis components I stick on it.

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## alyupe11 (Jun 9, 2013)

Looking forward to the write up


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

alyupe11 said:


> Looking forward to the write up


Looking forward to finding a rear ebd with the Z-LINK rear Suspension and disc brakes so all i have to do is unbolt and then bolt uo new one.

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## oldskool (Mar 8, 2013)

Great read here - in for results. At some point, I'd like to go the same route as the original poster - maybe once my rear brakes are close to worn out haha.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

oldskool said:


> Great read here - in for results. At some point, I'd like to go the same route as the original poster - maybe once my rear brakes are close to worn out haha.


Its still to come just looking closer to home on the parts seeing has I got screwed.

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## Red Dragon (Feb 16, 2012)

I added a Watt's to my Trans Am. It made the rear end behave a lot more like the independent rear that was on my Corvette. The car definitely turns in better than with the stock panhard bar set up.


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## bartonmd (Jun 30, 2011)

Has anybody actually done this, yet?

Mike


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## LS6rally (Dec 2, 2014)

Sounds like your best bet would be to rent an LTZ.... :grin:


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## bartonmd (Jun 30, 2011)

LS6rally said:


> Sounds like your best bet would be to rent an LTZ.... :grin:


I LOL'd... I hadn't thought of that, but then again, not something I would do, either...

Mike


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

H3LLON3ARTH said:


> Its still to come just looking closer to home on the parts seeing has I got screwed.
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Did you ever do this? If not why? IF so, did you document it? I am looking to do this, like you, basically for looks. I am negotiating with a yard to trade me the whole setup for an older car.


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## H3LLON3ARTH (Dec 16, 2011)

No I never did my Cruze sadly has been sitting idle for the past 4 years due to some legal issues but I do plan on continuing to do stuff to my car as soon as it's road worthy again lol


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