# StabiliTrak/Power Steering Issues



## Rueter (Jan 15, 2015)

So this is extremely long, but there is a lot of information in here on the topic of StabiliTrak, TCS, ABS, power steering loss, and infotainment center issues and I've been dealing with these for a while now:

I bought this 2013 Cruze Eco in late October of 2014 with only 19,000 miles on it and now after just turning over 22K, it looks like our Cruze is part of this StabiliTrak plague that GM has started. Lately, our touch screen radio has been cutting out and turning itself off and has been happening more frequently. I’ve only experienced this one time (my wife is the primary driver) when backing it in at home, but last Thursday morning on my way in to work, it happened seven times. One of which was noticeably longer than the other times and I saw the StabiliTrak message flash quickly but it went away and the radio turned back on. I took multiple videos of the occurance that morning for proof to the dealership if they cannot replicate the problem.

Wednesday night (a week ago), my wife called me on her way into work to tell me that the radio wasn’t turning on at all and then a message came up on the DIC stating “service stabilitrak” and the brake light and the ABS light were on and flashing. Then it did the same thing and said "service traction control" the next morning on her way home. I tried researching this that night, but all I could find were a bunch of people complaining about experiencing similar problems, but not much on what actually causes it or any troubleshooting options. It sounds like this is occurring because of something interrupting the signal to the ECM. From what I read, it seems that when this message appears, all ABS and traction control systems are disabled, so that doesn’t make me very happy when my wife is the primary driver and it’s the middle of winter in the midwest.

 We’re still under the GM warranty as well as the one from the dealership, so I know this will be covered, but a new car shouldn't be having this many problems. I’ve seen that many people’s dealerships say they couldn’t replicate the problem and basically shrug their shoulders, so I’m certainly getting copies of every service appointments we have to make. I work for an aftermarket supplier of certified GM parts for all model year Corvettes and have been well familiar with GM and especially Chevrolet, so I'm hoping that this experience can be cleared up without soiling each of those names for me

After talking with Paul Koerner a bit on the 15th, I felt better about my coverage at least. It looks like some people have had a little bit of luck with fixing this issue by having the battery cables replaced. I am having my dealership flash and reflash both the ECM and BCM as well, something isn't getting the right signal somewhere in the communication of relays.

For the many other people with this problem, I'm betting that there is a faulty ground that is the source of this issue. If the the ground is faulty, the current tries to cycle back there but isn't connecting and who knows where that current ends up. If that isn't the issue, having the ECM and BCM flashed and reflashed by your dealership may help. With newer cars with low miles, they're still learning the ropes and the computers have to be broken in. So, if it starts getting bad readings from something like a faulty ground, the computer will continue to think that is normal until the system is flashed.

Email from Paul: 

*From: *Paul Koerner
*Sent:* Thursday, January 15, 2015 3:52 PM
*To:* Nick Rueter
*Subject:* RE: FW: GM StabiliTrak

Nick,
To the Cruze in question.

It is GM certified used car to mileage 48022 or 12/12/2017.

That means that if your mileage is under that, you are covered for almost everything, including diagnosis and repair of issues like this. There are a few things not, but it is VERY comprehensive.

#2 There are 3 special policy coverage items on this vehicle. Rack and pinion, water pump and negative battery cable are all covered to at least 120,000 and 2023

#3 Normally, these systems are reliable, however, I have seen some steering wheel position sensor issues and ABS reluctor wheels create issues. Because it says service traction control and stabilitrak, I am more looking at an ABS sensor, reluctor or hub bearing.


Accurate diagnostic trouble codes will tell us much more, but since you are under the 48022 mileage, you most likely will be covered for diagnosis and repair.

FYI: REQUEST ALL DTC AND ESTIMATE INFORMATION PRIOR TO REPAIR TO MAKE AN INFORMED DECISION.

They may ask you for one hours diagnosis authorization but that is not uncommon until they KNOW it is covered by GM, then you dont pay a thing if it is a covered item.

Professionally, Paul Koerner


After I lost power steering assistance Friday morning after the infotainment center turned off, I scheduled the car to get serviced at my dealership and took it in Monday morning (the 19th). Three hours after being told it would take roughly an hour and a half to run the tests, my dealership told me the *alternator* is going out and that may be the cause. I guess I'm not familiar enough with newer vehicle technology, but I can't think of any scenarios where a weak alternator could possibily cause loss of power steering among the issues with the StabiliTrak. Yes, I understand it has an electric power steering box, but other systems wouldn't function without proper power either and there's no way GM could legally produce a vehicle that would lose power steering capabilities due to a different system losing power. The alternator simply maintains vehicle voltage and I saw absolutely no loss in voltage or any other signs of a weak alternator. My '96 Jeep Cherokee is on its third alternator in the three years I've owned it, so I'd like to think I know the typical trouble signs of a failing alternator.

 Either way, I left with a loaner and was told it'd take a couple days to get the new alternator (two days later and still no word). So, if the problems continue (which I'm sure they will) I guess I'll be heading back to the dealership. They said the alternator was failing, not completely dead. If the alternator was failing, the voltage would likely be fluctuating all over the place. If the alternator was completely dead, it’d be running off of the battery and would slowly be draining the voltage to the point where it would be constantly low and not generating enough power for something like the entertainment center to draw from. But if that were the case, the entertainment center would constantly be turning off or not turning on at all since it doesn’t have enough power to draw on. But, it would go a couple days and be perfectly normal and then start acting up again. I saw no signs of an improper voltage level being an issue.I think it's a little absurd it took them three hours to diagnose an alternator issue as well. I could understand if a connection from the alternator was bad, but the alternator alone being the sole source of these issues is a little too farfetched to me. And I don't understand how a car with only 22K on it needs a new alternator already, but hey if it doesn't fix it, at least I get a new alternator!

I'm still waiting to hear back from the dealership on this supposed alternator issue. Those of you that have had problems like this before, were you told the alternator was problem too? I know there have been documented issues with the negative battery cable and faulty ground connections and that seems to be one of the typical trouble areas causing this, but my dealership didn't address that at all. I bought this car for my wife because I was sure it would be dependable and safe, but that is apparently not the case. Like I said, I work for an aftermarket supplier of certified GM parts for all model year Corvettes and have been well familiar with GM and especially Chevrolet and I know GM has been taking a lot of hits lately, but I am very surprised no recalls have been made for this issue. This is clearly not an isolated issue, I'm not the only one experiencing these same issues. If anyone has any information that could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it so I can start driving my Jeep again and give this thing back to my wife knowing it's safe! I had posted this at chevroletcruzeforum.com a week ago and got absolutely no assitance, so I'm hoping someone can help me out here.

Thanks.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Ground cable replacement.....that is all.

Rob


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## Rueter (Jan 15, 2015)

That's what I had figured, and that's why I was thrown off when my dealership came back claiming it was the alternator.


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## JerTM (Dec 12, 2014)

Tell the dealership you would like the negative battery cable replaced and the concern can be re evaluated after the repair.


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## Rueter (Jan 15, 2015)

JerTM said:


> Tell the dealership you would like the negative battery cable replaced and the concern can be re evaluated after the repair.


I'll see what exactly they have to say when (if) they contact me about the alternator swap being completed and have them make that repair if they don't bring it up. Guess I'll just have to play the waiting game and see where it takes me. At least I get a free oil change and tire rotation out of this!


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## JerTM (Dec 12, 2014)

Keep us informed


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## Rueter (Jan 15, 2015)

JerTM said:


> Keep us informed


Will do. I still haven't heard anything since I dropped the car off Monday. If I don't hear anything by 4 pm, I'm going to call them.


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## Rueter (Jan 15, 2015)

Finally picked our Cruze up this morning. I called yesterday afternoon (a week after it was left) and explained that I dropped the vehicle off last Monday and was told it would be 2-3 days for the servicing and that I hadn't heard anything yet. This lady then claims to have called and left a voicemail on Friday afternoon to tell me the car was ready to be picked up. When I got to work, I was looking over the paperwork at my desk and noticed that the "date closed" was showing 1/22/15 at 14:18. So they finished Thursday afternoon at 2 o'clock and waited an entire day to (supposedly) call me? I'm sure they parked it in the lot and forgot about it. I wonder how long it would have sat there if I didn't call.

Either way, they changed the alternator, so we'll see how long that fends away this issue. I'm not too eager to go back to their service department, I requested an oil change and tire rotation since it would be free as a benefit from purchasing the vehicle there. They then tried to charge me for the oil change and didn't even do the tire rotation. Is it just mandatory for all dealerships to have sub par service?


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Don't take your car back there - ever. If the problem reoccurs take it to a different Chevy dealership and ask that the negative battery cable be replaced under the special program.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

To answer your question, no—this is not the dealership experience we wish for our customers, Rueter. We're happy to locate another dealership in your area for future service. Also, if you're interested in filing a formal complaint, just PM us your VIN and dealership name. Let us know if you have any questions.

Amber N.
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

Chevy Customer Care said:


> Also, if you're interested in filing a formal complaint, just PM us your VIN and dealership name.


This should be more widely broadcast! I'm sure most people don't realize they can file a dealer complaint with GM.

Poor dealer service has got to be the #1 reason people get fed up with a brand and swear to never buy a certain car company's products again. No car is perfect, they all need to go to the dealer at some point for something, and that experience makes or breaks the ownership experience for a LOT of people.


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## OEMplusCC (Apr 10, 2013)

Happend to my wifes 2013 Cruze ECO this morning for the first time. Car just hit 55k.
She has been also experiencing radio ON/OFF issues for years. Dealer never fix it, because they can't reproduce it of course.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

OEMplusCC said:


> Happend to my wifes 2013 Cruze ECO this morning for the first time. Car just hit 55k.
> She has been also experiencing radio ON/OFF issues for years. Dealer never fix it, because they can't reproduce it of course.


Search and read the negative battery cable replacement bulletin.
The dealer, if they follow body of the document, is not supposed to waste time trying to duplicate the problem.

They are instructed to replace the cable if the customer is experiencing the problem you have described.

Rob


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## mrallergies (May 10, 2017)

Just fixed my car using this solution. Had all the same symptoms (all kinds of service warnings on the screen) plus not starting. Thanks for the help. 

Could the fact that the fuse for my horn always blows be related to this? Been through about 10 fuses in a year and I've probably only used it about 15 times. 

Thanks


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

mrallergies said:


> Just fixed my car using this solution. Had all the same symptoms (all kinds of service warnings on the screen) plus not starting. Thanks for the help.
> 
> Could the fact that the fuse for my horn always blows be related to this? Been through about 10 fuses in a year and I've probably only used it about 15 times.
> 
> Thanks


Odds are this is not related.

Rob


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## Dieselfever (Feb 23, 2017)

Attached a link to the extensive thread on this topic. Replace the original cable with the new part number. Instead of wasting a day at the service department just to be told there are no codes and they can't duplicate the problem, just order the parts and do it yourself. Cost of the parts is less than $25.00. 

I had all the symptoms as stated in the tech service bulletin. Replacing the cable fixed the problem.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-g...al-coverage-14311-negative-battery-cable.html


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Same problem here, five computer circuits all need at least 8.5 volts to operate with a sharp pulse to get a power on reset. Radio is more like 10.75 volts.

Next morning after buying this thing like to check it over for myself, screw on the negative battery was tight, but still rotate the terminal with my fingers. Somebody used a positive battery terminal for the negative, positive battery terminal is 0.050" larger, can never get a tight seal.









Just removed the cable that bolt, spread the crimps and filed it, so with a tight bolt would have a gap in that end.

This lasted a couple of years, but started have error codes again, found both excessive voltage drops in both - & + terminals, where you see that indent in the cable, used a spur drill on both sides so I could pull the cables out of the terminals, both were badly corroded. Cleaned that off with hydrochloric acid, bright copper again, dipped in a solder pot and then soldered them into the terminals.

Without good alternator connectivity, has a sense terminal, it will also go crazy, its the victim, not the culprit. Yet another problem, the alternator gets its ground through the mounting bolt, will also go crazy if that ground is corrected. How about laying out over 600 bucks for a new alternator just because of some corrosion. After cleaning, added my own ground wire.

But also seem to have an alternator test bench, test full output current, not a darn thing wrong with it. Also has a crimped terminal on the BAT output, again bare copper, just put that in hydrochloric acid again, rinsed it off and stuck the whole terminal into my solder pot.

Another problem was this thing.









Underhood fuse/relay box ignition relay, so tiny contacts can handle as much as 40 amperes, arc each time they open or closed, will get a stuttering start up voltage, no proper power on reset. Just cleaned those contacts, good again, but later replaced it with a Panasonic. Can't buy good made in the USA relays anymore.

These are not new problems, now over a 35 year problem ever since they started putting computer problems, practically all are connectivity problems, connectors or switch contacts, shop solutions are to throw new parts in at the owners expense out of BB warranty. Just one, 1,300 bucks for a new ECU, just because a couple of connector pins are corroded.

New problems started in 1996 with OBD II, instead of loading firmware in PROM, switched to EEPROM instead, one electrical glitch can either destroy the firmware of more likely corrupt in. Engineers were vehemently again this, but marketing rules. They feel it cheaper to update over the internet, rather than send out a new 90 cent PROM, that never had problems in the first place. 

The more people would know about this stuff, the more people would leave these in the showroom. All vehicles are like this today. 

Another argument is updating the firmware, but only so much you can to with code, what about the hardware?


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