# Battery or Alternator?



## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

You need to take the vehicle to a place like AutoZone to read the codes. Once you have the codes, post them here. But in the mean time, read this: Special Coverage #14311: Negative Battery Cable


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

The negative battery cable recall was replaced by a Chevy dealership a few weeks ago on the car.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

Does the car die while running or just won't crank over when trying to start?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)




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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

The clicking/ticking sound from the starter usually happens when it can't get enough power to crank the engine. Either from a weak battery or poor cable connections. Either ground to engine from battery or positive from battery to starter.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Once you get a better handle on things you can also look at these:

[h=1]HOW TO: Installation of the Big 3 Cruze Kit[/h]
[h=1]Cruze Battery Upgrade Options[/h]


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

Exactly the second thing you said. It won't crank over when trying to start. I don't believe it's ever died while running.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> Exactly the second thing you said. It won't crank over when trying to start. I don't believe it's ever died while running.


I would definitely check the battery cables and make sure the connections are tight and not corroded. If that looks good, it is most likely the battery is weak. If the battery is still original, it would not be uncommon for it to be failing. 

Battery test are not always 100% accurate when they start to fail.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

TDCruze said:


> I would definitely check the battery cables and make sure the connections are tight and not corroded. If that looks good, it is most likely the battery is weak. If the battery is still original, it would not be uncommon for it to be failing.
> 
> Battery test are not always 100% accurate when they start to fail.


I don't believe they are corroded but will look a bit later. Last time I looked (which wasn't long ago they were not). I think that the battery has been replaced before. It's still under warranty through AutoZone, would they replace this as defective? Should I just remove the battery from the car and take it to them for checking or charging, or jump the car?


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> I don't believe they are corroded but will look a bit later. Last time I looked (which wasn't long ago they were not). I think that the battery has been replaced before. It's still under warranty through AutoZone, would they replace this as defective?


It depends on the warranty, most battery warranties are reduced the older the battery is. Also, it could be a fight if their "test" is good.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

TDCruze said:


> It depends on the warranty, most battery warranties are reduced the older the battery is. Also, it could be a fight if their "test" is good.


Will AutoZone do accurate load tests to test the alternator and battery? I'm not sure if I should trust them or just buy a multimeter and conduct the test myself after the battery is charged either through having them charge it or jumping it.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

TDCruze said:


> If the battery is still original, it would not be uncommon for it to be failing.
> 
> Battery test are not always 100% accurate when they start to fail.


THIS ^^^^^^

If the battery is more than 3 years old, start there.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

How to determine automotive battery age:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BT_UzRpcPYg


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> Will AutoZone do accurate load tests to test the alternator and battery? I'm not sure if I should trust them or just buy a multimeter and conduct the test myself after the battery is charged either through having them charge it or jumping it.


I am sure they have a load test they do. It draws a large current off the battery and gives an idea how much load the battery can handle. The lower the voltage under load is the worse shape the battery is in. It gives a good idea how strong the battery is. 

I would go see them and have the check the battery one more time. Hope they will find the problem. 

As long as all cables and connections are good. I would most likely guess it would be the battery is bad.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Most battery tests are insufficient to properly test a battery. They can definitively tell you if it's bad, but they can also pass a good one. 

How old is the battery? Many seem to find they only last 2-3 years. I'd say a 2014 is coming about due for it's second replacement battery.

Alternator failures in the Cruze seem fairly rare. The battery would be my first concern, followed by some kind of drain that's killing it.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

If the alternator was bad the light would be on and the car would die. Or other similar effects. 

The light won't come on for a failed battery. And as stated above. NO ONE does a proper testing of the battery. Which takes 35 minutes for 3 tests.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

I found out more information. Went to Autozone he tested the battery and said there was 80% life I asked for him to charge it to 100% he agreed. Came back and said the battery had a bad cell and was bad. Got a new battery. Came home hooked it up to a multimeter and am drawing 15.25 V with the car on. I've researched that if it's over 15V there likely is a problem with the voltage regulator. Is the voltage regulator external or internal (alternator) on the Cruze?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

The Cruze uses an advanced charging system. It monitors the current going into the battery - something older systems didn't do. The charging voltage is set by either the body control module or the engine control module. It's not a separate box.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

ChevyGuy said:


> The Cruze uses an advanced charging system. It monitors the current going into the battery - something older systems didn't do. The charging voltage is set by either the body control module or the engine control module. It's not a separate box.


It's weird, this is the 3rd battery that the Cruze has gone through. We are worried the alternator is the cause but the readings are not yet giving a clear indication of such. The car started and drove fine since the last incident for roughly 2 months before it wouldn't start again...


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Being on it's third wouldn't surprise me. (The factory battery counting as one.) But if it chewed though 3, that would be a bit of a concern. 

Verify the ground lead of the battery is going though a "donut" and there's nothing aftermarket connected directly to the battery.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

ChevyGuy said:


> Being on it's third wouldn't surprise me. (The factory battery counting as one.) But if it chewed though 3, that would be a bit of a concern.
> 
> Verify the ground lead of the battery is going though a "donut" and there's nothing aftermarket connected directly to the battery.


I'm not sure where the donut is for the battery? Would you recommend shopping around for alternators? If so any recommended ones to look for? Midas reported that the alternator would likely need to be replaced since the voltage was fluctuating. This was 2 months ago. I don't trust Midas as they are a ripoff however.


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

tbone5803 said:


> I'm not sure where the donut is for the battery? Would you recommend shopping around for alternators? If so any recommended ones to look for? Midas reported that the alternator would likely need to be replaced since the voltage was fluctuating. This was 2 months ago. I don't trust Midas as they are a ripoff however.


The voltage fluctuation is normal operation. The Cruze doesn’t pump out a steady voltage like older vehicles. Voltage is monitored by the computer (BCM) and varies based on demand and a number of other conditions.

The negative batt cable threads through a ‘donut’ looking loop between the battery and the front end. Here’s a pic of mine (it’s a diesel but probably same as gasser).


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

General car knowledge doesn't work when we're talking about the charging system. The Cruze voltage is designed to fluctuate as needed. The classic charging systems don't. I'd ignore any advice that's that isn't specific to the Cruze.

For the sensor, see the photo in this thread: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/185714-current-sensor-cruze.html 

The cable has to go though the middle of that sensor for it to work. If there are any added cables that go to the battery but don't go though that sensor, it will confuse the system. There is one small factory wire that doesn't go though that. That's fine.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Most of the time the car will run off battery. 

15.4 is normal in today's charging systems. It don't stay up there long though. It quickly drops off to battery voltage. 

Voltage does fluctuate all over the map but won't go lower then battery. 

Is your 15.25 reading with car running or just on. I'd be concerned with bad battery if car just on but running that would be normal. Keep your DIC on the volt reading and you'll see how the alternator acts. 

I"m assuming your car has volt reading. If not. Buy a cheap round gauge and wire it in to the fuse block if you can or some other source to constantly monitor voltage readings.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> I found out more information. Went to Autozone he tested the battery and said there was 80% life I asked for him to charge it to 100% he agreed. Came back and said the battery had a bad cell and was bad. Got a new battery. Came home hooked it up to a multimeter and am drawing 15.25 V with the car on. I've researched that if it's over 15V there likely is a problem with the voltage regulator. Is the voltage regulator external or internal (alternator) on the Cruze?


Well, glad they found the battery to be faulty! 
15.25 V on this car is not unusual. The charging system is variable as stated previously. 

I would not worry about it any further at this time, as long as the car is now starting as it should. 

If you have to replace this battery again any time soon, I would look for a different brand.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

TDCruze said:


> Well, glad they found the battery to be faulty!
> 15.25 V on this car is not unusual. The charging system is variable as stated previously.
> 
> I would not worry about it any further at this time, as long as the car is now starting as it should.
> ...


She just reported to me it's not starting again leaving her stranded at work. Any ideas? Worked for two days following the battery change. It just clicks and doesn't turn over. This has been the worst and most unreliable car I've seen.

She reported that it runs after a jump and the mechanic told her that it's not the alternator if the car will run fine after a jump. I'm guessing something electrical or a parasitic draw is happening...


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> She reported that it runs after a jump and the mechanic told her that it's not the alternator if the car will run fine after a jump.


Maybe. But as long as you see 13-14 volts with it running, you should be fine.




tbone5803 said:


> a parasitic draw is happening...


That's where I'd look. It seems the car doesn't fully go to sleep unless it's locked. Some users have reported problems if they shutdown the car with a Bluetooth phone conversation active - apparently the radio won't shut off after that. But both of these tend to fall into the "if I park it for days" category, not the kind that leaves you stranded at work.

Any aftermarket add-ons? Like a stereo amp?

Of course, there's the stupid question I have to ask - any chance she's turning the headlights on manually and not turning them off? I think the car is supposed to protect itself, but the battery saver may kick in too late. Since getting the Cruze, I hardly ever think about my headlights. They even turn on after 7 sweeps of the windshield wipers. But if she turned them on manually due to a "headlights in the rain" law, I could see how she could forget them. I've done that a few times, but the rapid series of "dings" when I get out of the car alerts me. But a aftermarket sound system may not ding.


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## TDCruze (Sep 26, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> She just reported to me it's not starting again leaving her stranded at work. Any ideas? Worked for two days following the battery change. It just clicks and doesn't turn over. This has been the worst and most unreliable car I've seen.
> 
> She reported that it runs after a jump and the mechanic told her that it's not the alternator if the car will run fine after a jump. I'm guessing something electrical or a parasitic draw is happening...


As stated above, make sure there is no parasitic draw from any aftermarket add-ons. E.g. Stereo, dash cam, remote start/security, etc. 
It seems like something is drawing down the battery. 
The OEM battery run down protection is pretty good on these cars, it is real hard to kill the battery as everything will turn itself off after a short while.


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## tbone5803 (Feb 8, 2019)

ChevyGuy said:


> Any aftermarket add-ons? Like a stereo amp?
> 
> Of course, there's the stupid question I have to ask - any chance she's turning the headlights on manually and not turning them off? I think the car is supposed to protect itself, but the battery saver may kick in too late. Since getting the Cruze, I hardly ever think about my headlights. They even turn on after 7 sweeps of the windshield wipers. But if she turned them on manually due to a "headlights in the rain" law, I could see how she could forget them.  I've done that a few times, but the rapid series of "dings" when I get out of the car alerts me. But a aftermarket sound system may not ding.


No, no add-ons. The car was bought stock. Very slightly pre-owned. She had to bite the bullet and it's sitting at a shop as of now. Hope it's not too much money. We talked about the headlights but the Cruze seems to have auto lights, no? We tried manually turning them on and off but the Cruze will automatically adjust them once you start the car again.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

tbone5803 said:


> We talked about the headlights but the Cruze seems to have auto lights, no?


Yes, it does. If you manually turn them on while driving, they will stay on when you shut down. How long they will stay on, I'm not sure.




tbone5803 said:


> but the Cruze will automatically adjust them once you start the car again.


I'm not sure how that can be. If you leave the switch set to "on", the switch stays set to "on". The car can't move the switch back to "auto". (The "off" position is spring loaded. So, if you turn it to "off" and let go, it springs back to "auto". But the same can't be said for "parking" or "headlights".)


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## Camaroman (Jun 18, 2013)

Some old school, tests might help figure out if there is a parasitic draw. when he removed the battery and put in the new one, was there a spark when the second battery cable was attached. with the electronics on the newer cars there should be a little spark, due to the accessories that are always drawing power. A large would indicate a large power draw or a short. another old school test is to start the car and remove the neg battery cable from the battery. if the alt. is bad the car will stop. unless there is some heat failure in the alt. but the car would not die over night form a weak alternator especially with a new battery. sounds like a massive power draw. the battery cable test could be a tip off.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Camaroman said:


> another old school test is to start the car and remove the neg battery cable from the battery.


Very bad idea with a newer car. The battery is needed to filter the power from the alternator. Without, it very bad things can happen to the car's computers.

That was a "ok" test back in the days when "on-board electronics" meant you had a AM radio.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Never a good idea to disconnect with car running. You'll cause voltage spikes to the cars computers. 

If you need to know amperage draw. Buy a inductive volt meter with an amp clamp. They're not that expensive.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

By in large, all you need is a voltmeter. A 12v battery is 12.6v on a good day. A little higher if just off the charger. If the voltage is 13.8v or higher with the car running and the headlights on, then not only is the alternator able to supply all the car's needs, but it's able to charge the battery as well. If it's below that, then you have cause for concern.

That advice is both old school and works on the Cruze.

Where you can get tripped up is the Cruze can go higher then 14.4v. In older cars, that's a sign of a regulator that's gone bad.


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## Camaroman (Jun 18, 2013)

Technically if the alt is bad the motor will stop as soon as the NEG. Bat cable is removed. the motor would not run long enough to damage the computer. If the motor does stop you put the cable right back on, there is a certain amount of robustness built into the system. Just saying as a 31 yr. gm employee trained in all facets of GM technology. You would not want to leave it off for very long. Worked at Rochester products and interfaced with GM tech center when computers were rather fragile but they have been improved .


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