# Idler or Tensioner?



## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

The manual says to remove the right engine mount, which includes some "torque to yield" bolts that will have to be replaced as you can't use the old ones again. Apparently you have to do that to change the belt. And of course removing the belt is the first step in replacing the tensioner, but I wonder if you can just loosen the belt and let it hang out of the way. So maybe you can get by without removing the engine mount when replacing the tensioner. You may need to remove the wheelhouse liner to give you some room.

But frankly, the fact it's been in accident concerns me. The problem might be the pulleys are out of alignment or contaminated. The manual also suggests an overcharged A/C can cause problems. And I wouldn't rule out the belt. I know back in the '80s Sears sold belts that sounded like popcorn once they got a little wear on them. The solution was to buy your belt somewhere else. Maybe the repair place used a cheap belt.

But I think what I'd do is pop the belt off and check the operation of the tensioner. If it swings smoothly and the pulley spins well without any "crunching", I think I'd look elsewhere for the problem. 

But if you have to pull the engine mount, I'd change the belt with a known good brand and clean the pulleys.


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