# Detailed wiring write up.



## tcruze94 (Jul 4, 2014)

I am looking for a detailed write up for wiring an after market drl. I bought an led drl that goes into the fog light area. I know how to install the lights... But I have no idea on the electrical.... Anyone know how I can do this cleanly and without alot of issues? I could tap into the headlight wire but do not really want to be cutting up wires on a vehicle still in warranty...


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## tcruze94 (Jul 4, 2014)

Anyone installed aftermarket Benz style led fog light things? Electrical help would be nice...


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## KpaxFAQ (Sep 1, 2013)

What your trying to do should apply to all cruzes so you might get more help over on the gasser side with this. Just a suggestion.


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

Yes, I have these. Mine are always on with the headlights.

I have installed Bi-Xenon 6000k 35w HIDs in the stock housing. My kit from Kensun contained a 12v relay. When power is sent to the stock headlights, the relay intercepts this and turns on a more robust headlight circuit to power the ballasts for the HIDs.

What does this have to do with the driving lights? I also use the relay to supply power for the driving lights. On my car, if the headlights are on, DRL or not, then my driving lights are on. My setup is unique in that not everyone will have their headlights hooked up to a 12v relay to power HIDs.

Despair not! I am considering a secondary method which will work well in your situation. 

You will need a relay and a fuse tap. Figure $10 above and beyond your kit. I've noticed some kits come with the relay, BONUS!!!

Fuse Tap your accessory power in the fuse box inside your car (there are 2 fuses). You'll want about a 10amp fuse on the circuit. Extend this wire into your engine bay and hook it up to the 12v input on your relay. Now run the Normally Open circuit to the power on your driving lights. Make sure you connect all the grounds to one of the many grounding blocks in your engine bay. I used one of the many on the radiator wall near the battery.

When your car is on, it will power the relay, which in turn will power the LED driving lights.

I have more ideas if you want different results. Only want lights on at night? Want to be able to turn on and off your lights at will? If neither of the first 2 methods work for you, let me know what you are trying to achieve and I can help you with where to tap your power for the relay.


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## tcruze94 (Jul 4, 2014)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/281495819937?_mwBanner=1.... 

I would like them to be on all the time! Check out the link and see what I am getting... I know how to get them on the vehicle.... But I have no flipping clue on the electrical.


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## tcruze94 (Jul 4, 2014)

Do you know the fuse numbers on the accessory fuses? And how does this fuse tap work? Does the relay attach to the fuse tap? How does my red (+) wire attach to this? And the ground is wired in how? Do I crimp the ends to one of the eye bolt hole things... 

I may be in over my head.


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## tcruze94 (Jul 4, 2014)

Bump... Any answers to questions Danny5?


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

Did you see my links in my post? If you looked at the fuse tap link, you would have answered your question about what the fuse tap looks like.

The fuse tap replaces a fuse on the internal panel:










You want to replace fuse 7 with the tap. This is the power outlet for the rear 12v accessory port. In my car, nothing is ever plugged in to it, so it carries the least load.

Your ground wires you want to terminate with ring terminals:









Find one of the many grounds in your engine bay, remove the 10mm nut and slide the ring terminal over the stud. Replace the nut and tighten. This is your ground. All your ground wires (You should have 3 total) can go to the same stud.

Ok, I've been debating about this for a bit, but a relay may simply be overkill for running LED lights. The LED benz style driving lights draw a paltry 2 amp at load. The power outlet circuit is fused at 10amps, so it can EASILY handle the load of your driving lights.

Plug in the add a circuit in place of fuse 7. Add a second 10amp fuse to the fuse slot in the add a circuit. The add a circuit has a single wire coming out, this is the 12v power you need to run to the driving lights. Pierce the grommet in the firewall with a thin long screwdriver, and run some 16 or 18ga wire through the hole. Tuck this wire neatly under the driver side fender, securing with cable ties where needed and connect to the + power on the driving lights.

Now add a ring terminal to the ground on the driving lights, and connect to the fore mentioned grounding stud.


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

Since I have my car back, there is no reason I couldn't take pictures...









Here you see I have an add-a-circuit plugged into fuse 7 on the internal fuse panel. The wire running off the tap, highlighted in red, is the wire you want to run IN to the engine bay.









Now granted, you can barely make this out at night, but the big red cable is the power wire for my amp, and it enters the interior of the car through the main harness grommet. You want to pierce a hole in this grommet and feed your new power wire through here. The grommet is located right up against the driver side suspension tower and the coolant reservoir.









Studs like this one are littered all over the engine bay. Pick one close to you and ground your lights here. There are 3 near the negative battery, and I even found one under the airbox on the passenger side. Use the one that makes sense for you.

The rest of this is really laying the wire between the connections. You know how to use crimp connectors, right?


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## Danny5 (Dec 22, 2011)

I just looked at what you bought. It *looks* like you'll get a relay with your driving lights, but you really don't need it. 6watts is only 0.5amp per side, which is a really really really small load.

However, since it comes with the relay, I say use it. Run the accessory wire to the signal wire of the relay. I believe it's white, but read the instructions to be doubly sure.

The red wire on the relay will connect directly to your positive battery terminal. (Use a ring connector if not supplied) 

And finally good ole ground to any of the grounding posts in the engine bay.

Whew, I think I've covered every possible scenario by now. HA


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## tcruze94 (Jul 4, 2014)

You are the freaking best! Thanks so much!


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## Antonio9312 (Jul 19, 2019)

Hey so quick question! I bought a rear view mirror back up camera and I am using meknic dash cam hardwire kit to install it. I am having trouble finding a ground for the foot and half grounding wire. Can anyone help me out?!?!


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## Antonio9312 (Jul 19, 2019)

Antonio9312 said:


> Hey so quick question! I bought a rear view mirror back up camera and I am using meknic dash cam hardwire kit to install it. I am having trouble finding a ground for the foot and half grounding wire


Can anyone help me out


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## kelaog (Aug 1, 2019)

Antonio9312 said:


> Can anyone help me out


Three(Two) options:
1.) Splice in another length of cable to a suitable ground with a grounding terminal.
2.) Use a self-tapping screw and secure the existing 1.5' cable to the body.
3.) Buy the OEM camera and have the ECM reflashed (not 100% sure if this is possible on the cruze but it is on just about every other car/truck)


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## mimblewimble (Mar 29, 2021)

Danny5 said:


> Yes, I have these. Mine are always on with the headlights.
> 
> I have installed Bi-Xenon 6000k 35w HIDs in the stock housing. My kit from Kensun contained a 12v relay. When power is sent to the stock headlights, the relay intercepts this and turns on a more robust headlight circuit to power the ballasts for the HIDs.
> 
> ...


is there anyway i can power on my drl pressing unlock button on the remote? currently i have tapped my supply on fuse 11 into engine bay which does the trick but after locking my car fuse 11/DRL gets supply automatically for few minutes on and off so the drl gets turning on and off which kinda looks weird. here is customised DRL video


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