# $850 to replace water pump?!



## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

I'm pretty sure if you have the 1.4 Turbo engine in the 2013 2LT It could be covered under the 10-year special replacement coverage?


https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10079524-0335.pdf


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

3.5 hours??? I did mine in 1 hour and I'm a weekend warrior mechanic. Tad high.


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## Shakeybonezzz (Oct 28, 2020)

.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Contact your local dealer with your vin


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## mxgreen (Feb 14, 2019)

Eddy Cruze said:


> I'm pretty sure if you have the 1.4 Turbo engine in the 2013 2LT It could be covered under the 10-year special replacement coverage?
> 
> 
> https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10079524-0335.pdf


Wow, thank you! I'll contact my dealer on Monday. This is why I love the internet - and groups like this that share valuable and helpful info. Thanks again!


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

To high? Yep...possible $850 too high. GM has an special/extended warranty on water pumps. I had mine done last month. Took the car in for an oil change...service writer came out and told me about the water pump.....before I could ask "how much?" she said it was covered by a extended warranty. Free is best.

Nowadays a dealer is not always the car owners boogyman anymore.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

jimmyc said:


> Nowadays a dealer is not always the car owners boogyman anymore.


I wouldn't go so far in saying that. I'm sure only work they get to do is warranty claimed. I wonder what the cost would've been if it wasn't warrantied. Bet it would've been as scary as the boogyman or worse. I can't say I've had any good experience in the dealers service dept except for resetting the tpms sensors which was done in the write up lane within 5 mins. Just don't let your car go into the hidden garage of the dealer if you're out of warranty.


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

IMO, $850 for a 1.4 water pump is high. 1-1/2 hour job. Parts/supplies under $200 depending on brand pump used.


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## MB2014LT2 (Feb 23, 2015)

I just paid $940 at the stealership for a water pump on my 2014 2 weeks ago with 37,000 miles on it.


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## Shawn855 (May 25, 2016)

Many videos out there showing you exactly how to do it. Study the vides until it's hard wired in your head and apply what you've learned. The OEM replacement (ACDELCO) is ~$100.00. I work in IT and have been doing my own repairs and saved thousands already. Just be sure to obtain the correct torque specifications for each bolt.


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## jimmyc (Jun 27, 2020)

MB2014LT2 said:


> I just paid $940 at the stealership for a water pump on my 2014 2 weeks ago with 37,000 miles on it.


There is an extended "special" warranty by GM on these water pumps. Mine (also a 2014) got done at 60+000 miles. No charge, if it's leaking. Someone here might give you the recall notice number to check out.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Sounds like perfectly reasonable and customary pricing to me. Actually would be cheap in my area. 3.5 billable hours is the industry standard accepted price for this job. It doesn't mean it takes that long, but we can have a discussion on flat rate pricing whenever you'd like.

If that price is the job done properly with all the correct required bolts and torque procedures it's perfectly acceptable. Can it be done cheaper? Of course. Does it really take 3.5 hours? Almost definitely not. But that's not how shop pricing works or how I get paid.

Attached is a screen shot from my personal laptop, and industry accepted pricing/management software. You'll see 3.5 is the price, you'll also see that labor here was 169.95, it's actually now 174.95 as of 1/2/21.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Shawn855 said:


> Many videos out there showing you exactly how to do it. Study the vides until it's hard wired in your head and apply what you've learned. The OEM replacement (ACDELCO) is ~$100.00. I work in IT and have been doing my own repairs and saved thousands already. Just be sure to obtain the correct torque specifications for each bolt.


I have yet to see ONE show you how to do it properly


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## Shawn855 (May 25, 2016)

Ma v e n said:


> I have yet to see ONE show you how to do it properly


I've seen quite a few. All of them showing how to do it from beginning to end, for both the 1.8L engine, and 1.4L. The 1.4L has some extra steps in there yes, but I myself would be perfectly comfortable doing this job following the videos, knowing it would save me $700.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Which bolts are torque to yield and require replacement? According to a video.....

I never said you couldn't get the part replaced after seeing how it comes apart by watching a YouTube video. I said I've never seen one do it the PROPER way


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## Shawn855 (May 25, 2016)

Ma v e n said:


> Which bolts are torque to yield and require replacement? According to a video.....
> 
> I never said you couldn't get the part replaced after seeing how it comes apart by watching a YouTube video. I said I've never seen one do it the PROPER way







The torque specs he references match up with what I have in the service manual. However I always call the dealership to confirm as some torque specs change with each yearly iteration of the car.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

MB2014LT2 said:


> I just paid $940 at the stealership for a water pump on my 2014 2 weeks ago with 37,000 miles on it.


Am I the only one who gets upset when people refer to dealership's as "stealerships"????? @Ma v e n 

Most of them are just trying to make an honest living.

It's not their fault that the general public knows more about video games than the cars they drive. And as a result, the general public just assumes that everyone is trying to screw them over when it comes to automotive maintenance.

It's nothing to spend $1,000 on an new iPhone every 2 years, but heaven forbid spending $850 for maintenance on you car.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Seems like a respectable video, however it's one of the least watched videos on the first page or so of results for "Cruze 1.4 water pump". He does mention replacing the mount bolts, but he inaccurately says you need to replace the 2 mount-to-body bolts, and doesn't replace the 3 that are required anyway (regardless of his excuse...its a video, he could have easily "lied" and said they were new and gave proper sepcs instead of making up his own from nowhere)and doesn't acknowledge it's required to replace the 2 bolts on the water pump ITSELF.

My assessment of YouTube mechanics and videos in general,and my critique of your view of videso on this job specifically, remains the same. Never seen a single one get it right. There's a reason there's so many Cruzes with repeat repairs, and it's not always GMs fault


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

JLL said:


> Am I the only one who gets upset when people refer to dealership's as "stealerships"????? @Ma v e n
> 
> Most of them are just trying to make an honest living.
> 
> ...


Of course I do, but you know what? I sleep like a baby at night, because I know I fix my customers car properly, and I know that there's a really good chance that if I'm the guy working on your car it's because somebody else couldn't fix it. I'm typically the end of the line, I get to fix the cars the owners and other techs f#kced up. I routinely get cars where the customer says "my mechanic" or "YouTube" said XXXX job was easy....then how come it's in my bay?


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## Shawn855 (May 25, 2016)

Ma v e n said:


> Seems like a respectable video, however it's one of the least watched videos on the first page or so of results for "Cruze 1.4 water pump". He does mention replacing the mount bolts, but he inaccurately says you need to replace the 2 mount-to-body bolts, and doesn't replace the 3 that are required anyway (regardless of his excuse...its a video, he could have easily "lied" and said they were new and gave proper sepcs instead of making up his own from nowhere)and doesn't acknowledge it's required to replace the 2 bolts on the water pump ITSELF.
> 
> My assessment of YouTube mechanics and videos in general,and my critique of your view of videso on this job specifically, remains the same. Never seen a single one get it right. There's a reason there's so many Cruzes with repeat repairs, and it's not always GMs fault


I respect your opinion but I myself disagree wholeheartedly. It's youtube videos and sites and service manuals and the ability to research, research, research, that has led me to be able to change my lower control arms, tierods, balljoints, stabilizer links, struts, coil springs, mounts, engine mounts, wheel bearings, etc etc etc etc myself, all torqued to spec, and working great, saving myself a lot of money. 

The dealership isn't my primary place to go to for repairs that I can't do myself (-30 celcius weather makes it uncomfortable to do my own work) because I know how much they charge and it's a lot. $450 to change a thermostat housing? The OEM housing is $100. The job takes an hour at most. And you sound like a good mechanic which is great, but unfortunately the chevrolet dealership mechanics out here leave nothing but frustration in their wake.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Again, I never questioned YOUR abilities, nor the possibility of saving lots of money doing things yourself. 

My criticism is of the YouTube content and the belief by so many that it is accurate. This is a fact, you can choose to disagree with facts, but that puts you in an untenable and illogical position


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

Ma v e n said:


> Again, I never questioned YOUR abilities, nor the possibility of saving lots of money doing things yourself.
> 
> My criticism is of the YouTube content and the belief by so many that it is accurate. This is a fact, you can choose to disagree with facts, but that puts you in an untenable and illogical position


I never consider youtube to be accurate and the law of the land. I just use it to learn and infer how to do my own work. It's like going to the library in the old days.


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## MB2014LT2 (Feb 23, 2015)

jimmyc said:


> There is an extended "special" warranty by GM on these water pumps. Mine (also a 2014) got done at 60+000 miles. No charge, if it's leaking. Someone here might give you the recall notice number to check out.


Yes, I was aware about that special coverage and even took a print out of it to the dealer. Unfortunately it states "some" and my particular vin # was not included. It seems GM is very aware of the water pump issues but decided not every Cruze out on the streets would be covered.


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## goochman (Mar 20, 2015)

Ma v e n said:


> View attachment 290142
> Sounds like



I love how the book rate makes the consumer pay for 3.5 hours of labor but if its warranty work then they only pay for 2.6 hours


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

goochman said:


> I love how the book rate makes the consumer pay for 3.5 hours of labor but if its warranty work then they only pay for 2.6 hours


Yeah...I love how GM gets to screw me by paying me less than everyone else would make for doing the same job too....

All depends on which side of the coin you're on.

Again that's a discussion regarding flat rate pricing as an industry that takes up many many pages on forums across the interwebz.

You say you're getting screwed because you have to pay 3.5hrs when it takes 1hr. I say I'm getting screwed because I only get paid 1.6hrs to do the job under special coverage warranty, when it used to pay 2.6hrs, and customer pay is 3.5hrs....


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Now when you're in to get XXXX done, and your quoted a flat rate time of 3.5hrs and it ends up taking me 5hrs because your car is a rusty **** box....do you think I get paid 5hrs? Nope. Still get 3.5 because that's how flat rate works. It's INTENDED to be of benefit to all 3 parties involved. Customer doesn't get screwed because a tech is slow, shop benefits from industry standard pricing, and being able to accurately and repeatably quote prices on most jobs. efficient, skilled techs make money by being quicker than quoted billable hours.
Everyone loses because customers think the billable hours should equal time spent on job, shops lose because they piss of techs when they can't pay more time after a job is quoted and lose jobs because they don't want to undercut labor times and devalue the flat rate system, techs lose when times are inaccurate, or the jobs takes longer than quoted due to unforseen issues.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Also causes techs to race the clock and take short cuts just to make money. Imo just a horrible system all around. It's the reason I myself am not a service tech. I started at a dealer as a oil tech right out of high school and saw it first hand how the flat rate system worked and as I'm a too honest of a person I knew it wasn't for me. Can make some horrible techs but there are great techs just far and few to come by.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

The best investment for the diy mechanic is a Helm Inc service manual for your specific year/model vehicle. It has everything you'll ever need to know about any repair your vehicle should ever need.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> Also causes techs to race the clock and take short cuts just to make money. Imo just a horrible system all around. It's the reason I myself am not a service tech. I started at a dealer as a oil tech right out of high school and saw it first hand how the flat rate system worked and as I'm a too honest of a person I knew it wasn't for me. Can make some horrible techs but there are great techs just far and few to come by.


That's not flat rates fault though. Those same techs that cheat and do shitty work to make more hours flat rate, would be the same ones who do shitty work are are lazy and unproductive if they were salaried. I'd wager I'm more conscientious, precise and first time accurate than a huge portion of salaried techs out there. I've been flat rate for 20years, and can't imagine working at a shop, where production is the goal, and not being rewarded for my production. If you're only being paid 40hrs or whatever to be in the building, why would one do anything after they earned the shop 40 billable hours? Personal pride and work ethics only go so far, eventually you're working to pay for someone else's quality of life, but not seeing an improvement in your own.

A larger problem is techs aren't required to be certified or licensed in any way in most of the country. There's no Federal level testing, certification or licensure for automotive technicians, and there no State level in most of the country (USA) either. Yet to be a Master Plumber, theres 4 years of apprenticeship or baccalaureate degree work, minimum 12 months of journeyman level work and criminal background checks involved before you can even register to take the NJ(and most states) plumbing certification testing.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> It's the reason I myself am not a service tech. I started at a dealer as a oil tech right out of high school and saw it first hand how the flat rate system worked and as* I'm a too honest* of a person I knew it wasn't for me.


I hear this ALL THE TIME. Its bullsh!t and it pisses me off to no end. You're "too honest" to be a flat rate technician, implying that every flat rate tech is dishonest and in some fashion more morally devoid or ethically corrupt than you are.

You're not a flat rate tech because: you didn't like the work/liked something else more, didn't want to make the required investment in tools, thought it was too hard,didn't like getting cut/dirty, didn't like being low man on totem pole, thought it was beneath you, you weren't capable of turning hours, the old guys in the shop told you you were stupid to want to be a tech because they were old and miserable, the productive guys in the shop didn't wanna teach you anything , or some combination or variance of those scenarios. And theres NOTHING wrong with any of those reasons. Those are all perfectly fine...all reasons that made being a technician a poor fit for you. But to backhandedly put down and entire industry and thousands of people and to say you won't be a mechanic because you're superior to everyone in the field is some seriously arrogant and pretentious posturing


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## SVogels (Oct 31, 2020)

mxgreen said:


> Hi all,
> My 2013 Cruze showed engine overheating message so took it to the mechanic who found no coolant + water pump broken. Says he has to replace the water pump and it will cost about $850
> 
> The breakdown was $450 in labor (He said it'll take 3.5 hours) + $150 in parts + ?$$ for coolant flushing +$60 for diagnosis
> ...


I thought they usually wave thr diagnostic fee if you have the work done, and pay it if you dont have the work done?? Id definitely get a second quote!!!


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

SVogels said:


> I thought they usually wave thr diagnostic fee if you have the work done, and pay it if you dont have the work done?? Id definitely get a second quote!!!


I know everyone would want to save money, but what's the reasoning/logic behind being okay with free diagnosis?

What's the value of it if it's free?
How quality is the diag if there's no money involved? Who has any skin in the game for it to be right? Customer has no room to bitch if it's wrong....it was a free guess. Shop doesn't lose anything because they didn't charge you for free guess, and they'll just guess for free again.
Shops that don't trust their techs, and shops that are hurting for money use that tactic to get business (some shops it's not actually free, they just inflate the repair cost)

Edit... shortened /rant. LOL


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Ma v e n said:


> What's the value of it if it's free?
> How quality is the diag if there's no money involved? Who has any skin in the game for it to be right?


That was my speech to customers in defense of paid diagnostics for 10 years. I never waived a diagnostic fee.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Maven you seem to be the exemption here. Maybe I have it wrong about techs and it's all the service writers that give them such a bad name at most dealerships.


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## Shawn855 (May 25, 2016)

I actually feel bad for the service desk people. It's a lot of stress having people coming in bitching at them like they're the reason the vehicle has issues. In fact, the dealer down the street from my work lost all 4 front desk people the past month. I went in there to have warranty work done this week (3 times.....sigh..) and saw all the new faces. I always try to be the nicest I can be, so long as they don't try to d|ck me around.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

They probably just moved on to the next dealer. When I worked at a dealer I was there for little over a year and saw the service writers constantly coming and going like 3 different times. Same with the service managers had 3 different ones the time I was there. Should mention same with the mechanics too as I think about it.


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## NoChance (Jan 13, 2021)

jimmyc said:


> There is an extended "special" warranty by GM on these water pumps. Mine (also a 2014) got done at 60+000 miles. No charge, if it's leaking. Someone here might give you the recall notice number to check out.


Question regarding these, I have a 2012 (just made a post about it) that I have a coolant leak and the more I look into it the more I think it is the water pump, I moved away from the dealership I bought it from, is this something I could go to any GM dealer and they would take care of it, if it is in fact covered by the "special" warranty?


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> They probably just moved on to the next dealer. When I worked at a dealer I was there for little over a year and saw the service writers constantly coming and going like 3 different times. Same with the service managers had 3 different ones the time I was there. Should mention same with the mechanics too as I think about it.


Ours rarely have a service manager or writer. Usually one of the reception ladies does it (finacial idk) or the techs themselves do it.


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## Shroomie (Jan 16, 2017)

Ma v e n said:


> Of course I do, but you know what? I sleep like a baby at night, because I know I fix my customers car properly


I recall you saying you jack the car from below and support the engine via the oil pan.

that is not what GM would call properly. you do it to save time... I get it, but don't act like you also don't take shortcuts 😉


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## Shroomie (Jan 16, 2017)

most DIY support the car from below because they don't have the equipment to support from above, but you do and choose not to use it cause of the rate on the special coverage.

I'm willing to bet a lot of techs that get paid 3.5 hrs still use this method on the oil pan so they get the job done quicker to get those 60 hr checks in a 40 hr work week


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Shroomie said:


> I recall you saying you jack the car from below and support the engine via the oil pan.
> 
> that is not what GM would call properly. you do it to save time... I get it, but don't act like you also don't take shortcuts 😉


I never said I don't have my own service procedures. I will use a floor jack if the engine hoist isn't handy, and I have even recommended others do the same.

There's a difference between supporting the engine by the oil pan (as opposed to letting it hang like many techs do) and not performing the actual repair properly... e.g: residing gaskets, reusing torque to yield bolts, not torquing bolts, etc...

Supporting the engine by the pan does not affect or jeopardize the integrity of the repair of the water pump in anyway. It introduces risk to the oil pan, but there is risk inherent with many procedures performed on the vehicle


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## Snipesy (Dec 7, 2015)

Lol I have a big list of things that I do that are not ‘proper’.

For some stuff going by GM’s service manual would mean stripping the entire engine. It’s kind of a pet peeve of mine. They like to just copy and paste other procedures even if they are excessive.


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## Thebigzeus (Dec 2, 2018)

I often wonder if my oil pan didn't start leaking cause I lifted/supported it with a jack when I changed the water pump...


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

Thebigzeus said:


> I often wonder if my oil pan didn't start leaking cause I lifted/supported it with a jack when I changed the water pump...


It didn't.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Snipesy said:


> Lol I have a big list of things that I do that are not ‘proper’.


Agreed.

The "proper" way to do it is: Any way that gets the job done right the first time without breaking something. Getting it done "under time" is a bonus.


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## Ma v e n (Oct 8, 2018)

JLL said:


> Agreed.
> 
> The "proper" way to do it is: Any way that gets the job done right the first time without breaking something. Getting it done "under time" is a bonus.


There's also a difference between the written procedure being followed to the letter, and the actual repair being affected completely.

Would you be more upset to learn that your mechanic didn't follow service manual procedures to drain the coolant a specific way, remove the PCV hose from the turbo, remove the wheelhouse liner and supported the engine via the oil pan....(even though supporting the engine via oil pan with a jack and a block of wood is NOT taboo in the service manual.)
Or would you be more pissed that they didn't torque the bolts to spec, didn't replace the torque-to-yield bolts, and reused the thermostat gasket?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Ma v e n said:


> Or would you be more pissed that they didn't torque the bolts to spec, didn't replace the torque-to-yield bolts, and reused the thermostat gasket?


I would of been pissed at my techs if they did this. Because most likely, the car would come back at some point to redo the work under warranty.

As I said, The "proper" way to do it is: Any way that gets *the job done RIGHT THE FIRST TIME* without breaking something. Who cares what the engineers put step by step in the service manual as long as the job is do right.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shroomie said:


> I recall you saying you jack the car from below and support the engine via the oil pan.
> 
> that is not what GM would call properly. you do it to save time... I get it, but don't act like you also don't take shortcuts 😉


On some GM models, the oil pan is part of the engine support structure. Seems like, on my 3.4L Impala, there was a brace between the transaxle and the oil pan, and one of the motor mounts was also attached to the pan. 

So putting a jack under the pan - padded with a board, of course - isn't really applying any out-of-the-ordinary stress on the pan. Plus, I want to say I've seen it called for in some manuals. Keep in mind, there are 20+ screws in the pan, plus it is cast aluminum and hence rigid, so the load gets distributed - it won't be pinching the seal in any particular spot.

I agree, jacking on the pan seems risky at first, but having done it a few times, I feel better about it.

Doug

.


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## LLA (10 mo ago)

Eddy Cruze said:


> I'm pretty sure if you have the 1.4 Turbo engine in the 2013 2LT It could be covered under the 10-year special replacement coverage?
> 
> 
> https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10079524-0335.pdf



Does it not say though that you need to have already requested reimbursement? "Customer requests for reimbursement of previously paid repairs to correct the condition described in this bulletin are to be submitted to the dealer prior to or by October 31, 2015" (Page 5).


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

Ma v e n said:


> Now when you're in to get XXXX done, and your quoted a flat rate time of 3.5hrs and it ends up taking me 5hrs because your car is a rusty **** box....do you think I get paid 5hrs? Nope. Still get 3.5 because that's how flat rate works. It's INTENDED to be of benefit to all 3 parties involved. Customer doesn't get screwed because a tech is slow, shop benefits from industry standard pricing, and being able to accurately and repeatably quote prices on most jobs. efficient, skilled techs make money by being quicker than quoted billable hours.
> Everyone loses because customers think the billable hours should equal time spent on job, shops lose because they piss of techs when they can't pay more time after a job is quoted and lose jobs because they don't want to undercut labor times and devalue the flat rate system, techs lose when times are inaccurate, or the jobs takes longer than quoted due to unforseen issues.


That’s exactly why I quit being a mechanic. Working in the rust belt made every suspension job horrible. Quoted something like .15 hours to do a job and it takes 3x longer. Shop makes all the money while the mechanic gets screwed. I have had great experience with dealers. Generally they know what the issue is and can fix it a lot faster and properly than some independent shop.


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## Bvogt (Dec 19, 2021)

Am I the only one concerned about the OP saying “no coolant”? If it ran with no coolant, the pump is the least of your worries…


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