# Post a pic of your IB setup!



## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

My fellow IB guys, I am going to be installing my 15in FI sub next week. I have noticed the metal work behind the rear seat's is a little funky. There is no metal on the sides. So, please post a pic on how you mounted your sub(s) to the rear seat.


[email protected]
Ralph


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## trevor_geiger (Nov 29, 2012)

Ohh did you get the fi ib or which one?


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

FI Ib3, 2 ohms. going to put 600 watts to it


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## trevor_geiger (Nov 29, 2012)

Oh nice well do post pictures when you can. I love fi subwoofers. I just sold my sp4 a few weeks ago


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

I will. I was going to cut a hole in the rear shelf but the trunk rods are right in the middle so no good. I am going to do it behind the seats. 600 watts will be going to it, will sound nice if installed right


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## queencitypr0 (Feb 16, 2011)

Here is what I'm working on. I removed the trunk rods and mounted 2 gas struts.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

hmmm, the gas struts are direct bolt on??


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## queencitypr0 (Feb 16, 2011)

Gnfanatic said:


> hmmm, the gas struts are direct bolt on??


I bought a bracket from liftsupportdepot.com I just used some self tapping metal screws to secure the bracket. On the other end I drilled a hole into the trunk arm and inserted a rivnut. Then I bought threaded ball studs and screwed them into the rivnut. I bought the struts from Autozone and attached it to the bracket and trunk arm. Works pretty well but I underestimated how heavy the trunk was so I need stronger struts to open the trunk without my assistance.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

queencitypr0 said:


> I bought a bracket from liftsupportdepot.com I just used some self tapping metal screws to secure the bracket. On the other end I drilled a hole into the trunk arm and inserted a rivnut. Then I bought threaded ball studs and screwed them into the rivnut. I bought the struts from Autozone and attached it to the bracket and trunk arm. Works pretty well but I underestimated how heavy the trunk was so I need stronger struts to open the trunk without my assistance.


Got pictures to do a how-to with?


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Cmon guys, I know a few of you have done this type of setup!


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## giantsfan10 (May 25, 2013)

If you search there's at least 2 people on here that have pictures of their ib setup. Look for a build log done by xtreme revolution he's got some pictures 

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

will do.


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## queencitypr0 (Feb 16, 2011)

Dragonsys said:


> Got pictures to do a how-to with?


Not from when I actually did it but I can take some now.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Getting there.......


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

2x Peavey 18" "Black Widow" Low Riders. 1340 square cm of cone area...each. Worth about three 15" subs, and about 200g of moving mass per driver. 4" voice coil and a properly heavy ferrite motor. 

Amplifier wiring is getting cleaned up just as soon as I get some new power cable.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

**** man, if someone told me that you can fit (2) 18's in the Cruze's trunk, I would never have believed them. May I ask how thick is your baffle?? I thought my 15 was huge, lol.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

queencitypr0 said:


> View attachment 102281
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sweet!


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Gnfanatic said:


> Getting there.......
> View attachment 103753
> View attachment 103761


Really nice


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gnfanatic said:


> **** man, if someone told me that you can fit (2) 18's in the Cruze's trunk, I would never have believed them. May I ask how thick is your baffle?? I thought my 15 was huge, lol.


Two 3/4" sheets of the best plywood I could find and one sheet of 1/2" MDF in the middle, for a total of 2" of baffle. 3/4" flush mount.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

OK guys, I am getting there. I obv did not paint the back or amp rack yet. Does anyone know what the 2 grey hooks are thats on the bottom of my IB? One is larger then the other. They are not for the seats, cant figure out what for?? If I cut them off I can make the IB fit even better but dont what they are there for?? Anyone know??


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

Nice set up. What's the difference in having forward and backward?


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

nada, I just like the look  plus I gained more trunk room from my original rear fired design.


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

I see. So what's it take for a speaker to be used with an infinite baffle?


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

A sub that is made for an IB setup, you dont use any sub. and the Baffle must be sealed as much as possible from the rear. I did alot of sealing and such to accomplish this. lots of labor.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

hmmm, I think the hooks are there to hold the insulation under the seat?? XExtreme, Hifi, can you guys verify this??


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gnfanatic said:


> A sub that is made for an IB setup, you dont use any sub. and the Baffle must be sealed as much as possible from the rear. I did alot of sealing and such to accomplish this. lots of labor.


Sub doesn't necessarily have to be made specifically for an IB setup. Typically, a well tuned high pass filter will suffice. My Peavey low riders certainly don't look like IB subs with a QTS in the 0.2x range, but they work wonderfully. 



Gnfanatic said:


> hmmm, I think the hooks are there to hold the insulation under the seat?? XExtreme, Hifi, can you guys verify this??


That's my guess. Check the seats at around the same position. There would be a latch there.


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## Mick (Dec 31, 2011)

Thought I'd save on a box by going ib after this weekend I remembered I really need to be able to take box out and fold seats down.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

yep, insulation. I removed the 2 hooks which gave the options to move the sub closer to the rear seat.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Gnfanatic said:


> hmmm, I think the hooks are there to hold the insulation under the seat?? XExtreme, Hifi, can you guys verify this??


Yes generally thats what they are for however there are more than usual and some have funky shapes


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## JAFO (Jun 27, 2012)

Those grey hooks at the back are actually for baby seats. It's the anchor system.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

JAFO said:


> Those grey hooks at the back are actually for baby seats. It's the anchor system.


Yea but not all 4 that are exposed in the pictures


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## JAFO (Jun 27, 2012)

Sorry I only meant the hooks nearest to the sub. I assumed those where the ones that were on his way.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

guys, the top hooks on speaker shelf are for baby seat. The ones are on the floor nearest the sub were very thin and flimsy. I doubt they are for baby chairs? I bent them with my hands!


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Alright guys, doors are done. This car is very easy to work on. door panels and snaking of 14 ga wire is cake. The mids are mounted on 3/4 inch mdf and another 1/2in ring, glued and clamped, painted 2 coats of oil base paint. Clears the door no problemo. I used a gasket for the mid mounting and the mounting of the mdf to the door. I dynomatted the inside of the door and outside, I did not go crazy like some people do. I think about serviceability, warranty repairs and weight. Cant seal a door anyways unless you put a fixed window in there. I just dont want it to rattle. Everything looks factory and very clean, no shoemaker work.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

That oil base paint won't do a whole lot on MDF. MDF will absorb moisture just the same. The most effective technique is painting them with a 50/50 mixture of wood glue and water. Use its absorption properties to your advantage.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> That oil base paint won't do a whole lot on MDF. MDF will absorb moisture just the same. The most effective technique is painting them with a 50/50 mixture of wood glue and water. Use its absorption properties to your advantage.


I knew you weren't going to like my paint  It will last for now, worse comes to worse I will remake them in BIRCH. No more MDF for me, junk. Dense? yes but junk


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Tweeters are done.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

Interesting mounting.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

You don't like it?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gnfanatic said:


> I knew you weren't going to like my paint  It will last for now, worse comes to worse I will remake them in BIRCH. No more MDF for me, junk. Dense? yes but junk


It absorbs water like none other. If you mix 50/50 wood glue and water, it will absorb at least 1mm thick and harden to an eggshell finish that water won't easily run down. It's a trick I learned building home theater speakers. After that, you only need one coat of primer and you're ready to paint. 

It's easy to use, but dulls tools and bits more quickly and excellent dust evacuation is necessary. That was very high on my list when I was shopping for a router. Birch ply is nice, but not quite as easy to work with. Just need to know how to do it right. 



Gnfanatic said:


> Tweeters are done.
> View attachment 107345
> View attachment 107353


An interesting approach. I may have done the same, except stealth was very, very high on my list as I used to drive around and park in Chicago. At least this way, you resolve some of the off-axis response issues with the factory pillars. Get some felt around those pods and you might even reduce some of the cancellations. I've been contemplating a dash pad for that reason alone. 

The build is coming along nicely. You are using the miniDSP, right?


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

I do I just havent seen anyone do it like that in 15 years. can you get a close up of how you mounted it.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

hificruzer226 said:


> I do I just havent seen anyone do it like that in 15 years. can you get a close up of how you mounted it.


I really had no choice due to the sea's tweeter being glued in the housing from the factory. the housing was way to big for the A-pillar fac mount. I will take a closer pic tomorrow.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> It absorbs water like none other. If you mix 50/50 wood glue and water, it will absorb at least 1mm thick and harden to an eggshell finish that water won't easily run down. It's a trick I learned building home theater speakers. After that, you only need one coat of primer and you're ready to paint.
> 
> It's easy to use, but dulls tools and bits more quickly and excellent dust evacuation is necessary. That was very high on my list when I was shopping for a router. Birch ply is nice, but not quite as easy to work with. Just need to know how to do it right.
> 
> ...


def using the dsp. now that I know how to wire it. going to start tomorrow.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gnfanatic said:


> I really had no choice due to the sea's tweeter being glued in the housing from the factory. the housing was way to big for the A-pillar fac mount. I will take a closer pic tomorrow.


You can remove the cover/housing of the stock tweeter in the pillar. Past that, all it takes is hot glue. That's how we did it on Justin's (Smurfenstein) car. I tuned that setup around the tweeter being in the pillar, and those respective reflections and off-axis anomalies. I'm using a far bigger tweeter than you are even. Since you changed the location of the tweeter, you'll need to re-tune it. It might sound OK, but it won't be ideal. That is assuming you're trying to use my tune.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

mine had 4 spots with glue attaching the tweeter to the housing. I was afraid of screwing it with it. Its done and I like the look.


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

I typically do not remove chambers as the effect crossover points and ts of tweets


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Gnfanatic said:


> mine had 4 spots with glue attaching the tweeter to the housing. I was afraid of screwing it with it. Its done and I like the look.


For future reference, that's a more solid example of a hot glue gun. They snap right off without any worry.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

hificruzer226 said:


> I typically do not remove chambers as the effect crossover points and ts of tweets


Yep. That will drive up your resonant frequency and potentially cause other issues. If you do need to remove the chamber, better have a lot of felt behind it.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Yep. That will drive up your resonant frequency and potentially cause other issues. If you do need to remove the chamber, better have a lot of felt behind it.


What "chambers" are you guys talking about??? Not sure if it is pertaining to my tweeter install or not. thanks


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## hificruzer226 (Mar 27, 2013)

The plastic or sometimes metal, housing the tweeters come in. I dont think you f'd with yours.


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

hificruzer226 said:


> The plastic or sometimes metal, housing the tweeters come in. I dont think you f'd with yours.


nope


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## Gnfanatic (Oct 2, 2013)

Amp rack is almost done. Need to trim down the rca cables, way to long. PPI recommended 8ga power wire . I ran 4ga from the battery to a dist block which then splits into 8awg. I hope thats enough, kind of worried. Yes, it is all OFC.


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