# MyLink Upgrade DIY



## modalita (May 25, 2013)

This DIY is to backwards integrate a 2013 Cruze MyLink touchscreen system into a 2011 or 2012 Cruze.

What you get- You get voice activated indexing on your USB, your touchscreen. You also get stitcher and Pandora streaming. I did not hook up the rear view camera, so can not tell you if that if functional. The harness does have the connection for it though.
Parts you will need:
Silver Box(Receiver): 22965237
Bezel: 95216932
Display Info Display: 22851302
You will need a harness kit from MVI- that will set you back $249. They are also going to include the twimax and the other required USB Cable. Factory Navigation Systems - Cars n Trucks Best DVD GPS Navi 









Also, to know you will need to send your silver box over to GTPrix for programming. He’s a member on here, but this is his site: Welcome to White Auto and Media Services I believe he is charging $199 for that service.

First off, you need to open up the existing system to get the old radio and display unit out.

Chevrolet Cruze Radio DVD GPS Navigation Installation Guide ( Mounting Instructions ) | OemCarGPS Blog

You don’t need a special tool to get the vent unit out. I used a butter knife. 

Once you get it open, go ahead and remove your control panel, receiver and display unit and set them aside.
Harness Connector that goes to your control panel. Add pins 5-8 on the bottom, and pin 3 at the top. It is a locking connector so you can punch out the pin in the middle they become really easy to connect.









Under glove box- You will run the red wire from the center console behind the glove box to the right hand side of the car. There is a connector in the wheel well behind the glove box. It is like 2 inches from the passenger wall. You need to look straight up from below(if possible) but visibility is terrible. I had to feel my way around here to get it hooked up.










Disconnect USB to the PDIM below the shifter. You will need to pull the side panel off the center console. You will connect your USB to directly to the receiver unit using the cable from MVI. The Bluetooth is integrated in the receiver.
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/137-...bluetooth-a2dp-bluetooth-audio-streaming.html









Now we can start connecting everything up. You want to put do your connections but don’t bolt anything in until everything is connected otherwise you will run out of room. I ran my harness and twimax around the back of the support of the display unit. I didn’t have enough room to try to get it in front.

Do this connection FIRST in the 44 pin receiver harness. You will need to add pin 43 to this unit. 43 is 2nd to the right at the bottom of the harness.









I put the connector into the back of the Receiver harness, and then add the pin in there afterwards. Do this first otherwise you’re going to run out of room later. Add your other connections to your receiver now(2 antenna pins, voice recognition unit and twimax). 









I did the connections to the info display unit next. Now- your old connection to the display unit goes into the harness, and the harness duplicates this connection into the back of your display unit. Your other connection to the back of the display unit is the twimax. Once you’ve connected these two, you are fair to fire up the unit for a test. You should see the myLink screen at this point.









Should you be good, bolt in your receiver and display unit. Run another test with your control panel. If that is good, then put it all back together!









Final disclaimer- The connections were properly fixed after these photos were taken (with quick connects or solder).


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## Extibal (Mar 22, 2012)

Sweet I'm going to start scanning for the parts and order them. Whats the best method of getting a hold of GTPrix and MVI


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## EcoTech2.0 (May 29, 2013)

Awesome! Good to see your project made it this far. Once u figure out that remaining power I'm all over this.


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

You sure this would work on a 2011, since Mylink wasn't an option on that model year?


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## modalita (May 25, 2013)

I believe the power issue is not one of the build, but one of my massive slide and reconnections all over the place. A clean build should not have that issue.


EcoTech2.0 said:


> Awesome! Good to see your project made it this far. Once u figure out that remaining power I'm all over this.


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## modalita (May 25, 2013)

GTPrix is a member here, but also google GTPrix and it will pull him up as White Automotive services. MVI can be reached at _gm-navigation.com/. _MVI's number is 866-428-3585 - ask for Anthony.‎


Extibal said:


> Sweet I'm going to start scanning for the parts and order them. Whats the best method of getting a hold of GTPrix and MVI


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## modalita (May 25, 2013)

I believe your harness was prewired for that, but call MVI to verify that one.


Dragonsys said:


> You sure this would work on a 2011, since Mylink wasn't an option on that model year?


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## Extibal (Mar 22, 2012)

Ok after not being able to find the Mylink With Nav at a reasonable price (I did of dealer sites for like $800+) I decided to order the Mylink non Nav and the touch screen off ebay for about $200 using the provided part numbers. Now @modalita I too now need the cable that connects the screen and radio together, (aka the blue plug) in your old post you had mentioned that it could be 20781772 was this correct. So all in all once i get those parts all I need is the custom harness from MVI and send the radio to @GTPrix for the programming! 

FYI for anyone wondering what the part numbers are for the radios 

MYlink With Nav #23121124 RPO UHQ & UP9

MYlink Non Nav #22965237 RPO UFU & UP9


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## 716RS (Mar 5, 2014)

Hey i know this is about adding mylink to an 11 or 12 but what about a 13? Would the process be the same? Dont judge my question i lack electronic knowledge


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## modalita (May 25, 2013)

I'm not sure what would need to be done to install the MyLink with Nav, but your part number for the silver box for the non-nav version is correct. I am not sure what it would take to but in a Navi, but was warned it would be a lot more involved.



Extibal said:


> Ok after not being able to find the Mylink With Nav at a reasonable price (I did of dealer sites for like $800+) I decided to order the Mylink non Nav and the touch screen off ebay for about $200 using the provided part numbers. Now @modalita I too now need the cable that connects the screen and radio together, (aka the blue plug) in your old post you had mentioned that it could be 20781772 was this correct. So all in all once i get those parts all I need is the custom harness from MVI and send the radio to @GTPrix for the programming!
> 
> FYI for anyone wondering what the part numbers are for the radios
> 
> ...


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## modalita (May 25, 2013)

The process would be the same for a 2013 as a 2012.


716RS said:


> Hey i know this is about adding mylink to an 11 or 12 but what about a 13? Would the process be the same? Dont judge my question i lack electronic knowledge
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## walshcruze (Sep 28, 2013)

So wait, let me get this straight, with this mod to the radio, it'll add the DVD capability? Sorry I'm just trying to make sure I'm reading this right.


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## EcoTech2.0 (May 29, 2013)

Thread bump. Anyone else complete this upgrade yet?


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## ATLCRUZE14 (Aug 1, 2015)

Hi guys I'm new to the forum. I purchased a non-navigation unit off of ebay with the tough screen and the keypad/ control. I just really wanted Mylink. What do i need to install this?


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## mjshealy (Oct 23, 2016)

I have a bunch of questions about this, i am getting ready to do the same thing in my 2014 Cruze 1LT. First off, you said:


> You will need a harness kit from MVI- that will set you back $249. They are also going to include the twimax and the other required USB Cable.


What is twimax, what is the "other required USB cable" and what is it for, and lastly, why do i need this $249.00 harness? i was under the impression that all i needed was the:
*7" touch screen- p/n: 22851302
*Mylink receiver- p/n: 23206821
*cable to go between receiver and touch screen: was told it was p/n: 20781772 but am not sure that is the correct cable
Then i was under the impression that i just had to go to the dealership and have them flash the RPO codes UP9(mylink), UFU(receiver), and UDY(7" touch screen). 
I know as well as you probably know that there isn't much info on this mod, so if you know anything that can help me out here i would greatly appreciate it.


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## mjshealy (Oct 23, 2016)

I just don't want to buy the mylink receiver, the touch screen and bezel, the cable, a backup camera and then find out i have to dump in a whole bunch more money to get it operational. did you happen to take a picture of the rear of the non-mylink receiver, where the cables hook up to? i'd like to see if theres a difference in harnesses. if there is, i couldn't see having to do more than swapping out the original harness for the mylink one, which i can find for less than half of that $249.00 cable. I wish there was a way to definitively find the answers im looking for(pinouts, schematics, etc) but i guess for now i would really just like to know, what is the purpose of this $249 harness, what does it do/integrate, what other USB cable do i need to put in and what is its purpose, and same with this "twimax".


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## mjshealy (Oct 23, 2016)

Also, the link you added for the $249.00 harness from MVI doesn't show it anymore. I guess they either stopped selling it or its been discontinued.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

mjshealy said:


> Also, the link you added for the $249.00 harness from MVI doesn't show it anymore. I guess they either stopped selling it or its been discontinued.


Given the age of this post, it hasn't been that popular of a mod or those who successfully did it "vanished" when more questions were asked. W/o help of an inside person, the radio isn't a drop in system. Having MyLink factory installed the dealer won't replace my failing unit for me when I had a warranty to foot the whole thing. Once you get it working, adding back up camera was also a vanishing help topic.


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## anthonysmith93 (Jul 15, 2015)

I really wish car manufacturers made it easy to do these upgrades yourself, I feel every upgrade available from the factory should also be available after the fact, it's kind of BS if you ask me.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

anthonysmith93 said:


> I really wish car manufacturers made it easy to do these upgrades yourself, I feel every upgrade available from the factory should also be available after the fact, it's kind of BS if you ask me.


Part of the reason is to stop people from stealing radios and trying to get a dealer to unlock them. There was a website for the 90's GM radios where you can call into the GM line with tech ID # and have them unlock it for you. 

That and the wiring harness is a nightmare since some years wires are there and aren't. In 2012 the harness for the glove box light is there tucked away for example, I haven't checked in my 13 as I forget to every time I'm down there changing the filter. On the new gens they won't even give you an upgraded radio with a manual trans, whole nother topic to be had.


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## anthonysmith93 (Jul 15, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> Part of the reason is to stop people from stealing radios and trying to get a dealer to unlock them. There was a website for the 90's GM radios where you can call into the GM line with tech ID # and have them unlock it for you.
> 
> That and the wiring harness is a nightmare since some years wires are there and aren't. In 2012 the harness for the glove box light is there tucked away for example, I haven't checked in my 13 as I forget to every time I'm down there changing he filter


Yeah and I get that, but I feel there's definitely a way for them to safely do it, wire all cars exactly the same no matter if the option is there or not, and make the radios 1 time use only, no "unlocking" available, once it's assigned to a vin it stays with that vin. They can do it somehow but I know they won't. It loses them money cuz then people will buy cheaper cars and add features later.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Just did a quick parts search using the 1st post as a guide.

RADIO - GM (22965237) $759.17 Plus the $199 if you find the person to send it in to
CONTROL SWITCH - 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE (95914367) $59.54 This was left out, there is a Non MyLink/ Mylink and Mylink with nav version of this 
TRIM BEZEL - GM (95216932) $24.66
DISPLAY UNIT - 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE (22858074) Discontinued both this part number and the one this superseded in OP

$843.37 before shipping then $199 with unknown shipping of radio leaves you $1042.37 before you source the harness and display unit.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

anthonysmith93 said:


> Yeah and I get that, but I feel there's definitely a way for them to safely do it, wire all cars exactly the same no matter if the option is there or not, and make the radios 1 time use only, no "unlocking" available, once it's assigned to a vin it stays with that vin. They can do it somehow but I know they won't. It loses them money cuz then people will buy cheaper cars and add features later.


that's all fun and dandy but my car came with it factory installed and it hasn't been a fun process at all. When the rest of the car is working right, the radio isn't. Some days there is no USB, no Bluetooth, no XM and then you have no radio completely until the dealer unbricks it. At that point I rather have the non MyLink with PIDM since I don't have nav or backup to justify a touch screen. At the price I posted above before you source the missing parts and shipping you could have had a higher priced aftermarket navi head unit in the fugly housing below the factory display and have loads more features than the oem unit.


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## anthonysmith93 (Jul 15, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> that's all fun and dandy but my car came with it factory installed and it hasn't been a fun process at all. When the rest of the car is working right, the radio isn't. Some days there is no USB, no Bluetooth, no XM and then you have no radio completely until the dealer unbricks it. At that point I rather have the non MyLink with PIDM since I don't have nav or backup to justify a touch screen. At the price I posted above before you source the missing parts and shipping you could have had a higher priced aftermarket navi head unit in the fugly housing below the factory display and have loads more features than the oem unit.


While I do agree you can get more features for less cost and headache, nothing is better looking than an OEM touch screen. I HATE the way they did the aftermarket double din trim, it's disgusting, worst setup I've ever seen honestly. And my crappy blue screen basic radio has issues too, it's locked up before, will be blasting my iphone music and all of a sudden it thinks my iphone was unplugged and switches to FM and the volume won't turn down, have to turn the car off and restart unplug phone and plug back in. It's also a pain haha.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

anthonysmith93 said:


> While I do agree you can get more features for less cost and headache, nothing is better looking than an OEM touch screen. I HATE the way they did the aftermarket double din trim, it's disgusting, worst setup I've ever seen honestly. And my crappy blue screen basic radio has issues too, it's locked up before, will be blasting my iphone music and all of a sudden it thinks my iphone was unplugged and switches to FM and the volume won't turn down, have to turn the car off and restart unplug phone and plug back in. It's also a pain haha.


My App Radio 2 was kinda buggy but not on the level of MyLink. I'm almost to the point where my next car will have less tech. My screen lags from touch and button press. I wonder how the OP is dealing with his swapped unit and features.


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## anthonysmith93 (Jul 15, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> My App Radio 2 was kinda buggy but not on the level of MyLink. I'm almost to the point where my next car will have less tech. My screen lags from touch and button press. I wonder how the OP is dealing with his swapped unit and features.


The only radio I'd ever consider is the Alpine one with CarPlay, it looks the nicest and has the nicest interface and most OEM (button/knob wise) and I dont like radios that change 300 colors and do extra crap like that. Kinda tacky to me


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

anthonysmith93 said:


> The only radio I'd ever consider is the Alpine one with CarPlay, it looks the nicest and has the nicest interface and most OEM (button/knob wise) and I dont like radios that change 300 colors and do extra crap like that. Kinda tacky to me


I almost got that one, but went with AppRadio 2 since it didn't have but like 3 main wallpapers. it pretty much acted like CarPlay/Android Auto before that existed.


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## anthonysmith93 (Jul 15, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> I almost got that one, but went with AppRadio 2 since it didn't have but like 3 main wallpapers. it pretty much acted like CarPlay/Android Auto before that existed.


Bestbuy currently has this Pioneer SPH-DA120 on sale for 399.99...pretty good deal!! Has the car play feature which is all I care about.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mjshealy said:


> Then i was under the impression that i just had to go to the dealership and have them flash the RPO codes UP9(mylink), UFU(receiver), and UDY(7" touch screen).


"just"? I suggest you talk to your dealer and see if they're willing and know how to do that before you go buying parts. I have a feeling you'll walk away from that looking for a "Plan B".


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

ChevyGuy said:


> "just"? I suggest you talk to your dealer and see if they're willing and know how to do that before you go buying parts. I have a feeling you'll walk away from that looking for a "Plan B".


Yeah it took me 2 trips to get Afterblow on and it took me searching the Corvette forums on how to know when it will work. My last instance, I came back to the car 2 hours later and it still was activating. It managed to fig the windows up a bit making me wonder if I had a stow a way sleeping in there.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> "just"? I suggest you talk to your dealer and see if they're willing and know how to do that before you go buying parts. I have a feeling you'll walk away from that looking for a "Plan B".


Part of the reason I say that is that I've heard stories about dealers only wanting to do what the VIN says the car has. If you go adding things that are not part of a dealer upgrade kit, they may not to able to convince Chevy's computer to make any changes.

Keep in mind, it's not like the dealer just changes a setting on your car. They connect your car to a subscription-only area of the Chevy website and Chevy's computer does the programming. If the change you want isn't an option on Chevy's computer, the dealer may not know how, or may not be willing to work around that.

And the radio is not just a radio, but a computer that talks to the car's computers. It may take some work to get all those computers to be one happy family.

If you can get it to work, great! But I'm not seeing an encouraging track record.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

I successfully did this upgrade in my 2011 Cruze Eco A/T


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## BrandoFisher117 (Mar 14, 2016)

RyanAlan00 said:


> I successfully did this upgrade in my 2011 Cruze Eco A/T


Care to elaborate?


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

BrandoFisher117 said:


> Care to elaborate?


I ordered part #s 22965237, 95166368, 22851302 from eBay. Once I received the new silver box, I went to whiteautoandmedia .comand under radio programming/ unlocks I paid the $199 plus the 17.93 return shipping. Go to their contact us page and get the shipping address. UPS it to them and then they'll program and UPS it back to you. They're only open on weekends so they'll program on Saturday, ship it back to you on Monday. Call 866-428-3585 and speak to Anthony. (Extension 104.) tell him you need the harness to add MyLink to your Cruze. this will cost 299$, $324 with shipping. they'll hand build it and ship in about a week. the harness will be clearly labeled. the red and black voice recognition wire will plug into the back of your OnStar module, which is behind the glove box. glove box and glove box trim will have to be fully removed. a 7mm or 5/16' socket is what size you'll need to pull everything out.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> I ordered part #s 22965237, 95166368, 22851302 from eBay. Once I received the new silver box, I went to whiteautoandmedia .comand under radio programming/ unlocks I paid the $199 plus the 17.93 return shipping. Go to their contact us page and get the shipping address. UPS it to them and then they'll program and UPS it back to you. They're only open on weekends so they'll program on Saturday, ship it back to you on Monday. Call 866-428-3585 and speak to Anthony. (Extension 104.) tell him you need the harness to add MyLink to your Cruze. this will cost 299$, $324 with shipping. they'll hand build it and ship in about a week. the harness will be clearly labeled. the red and black voice recognition wire will plug into the back of your OnStar module, which is behind the glove box. glove box and glove box trim will have to be fully removed. a 7mm or 5/16' socket is what size you'll need to pull everything out.


Great! Now we know the what/how, now the question is how to bring down the price. As it stands, it looks like it's around $600. Half of that being the custom harness.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I doubt that we will ever be able to get the cost of the wiring harness down to a lower price (unless someone else decides to start producing them). I'm more interested in the unlock service. There is a sourceforge project for unlocking Video In Motion and Mirrorlink on the 2012-2014 models. I assume that since it doesn't mention anything about allowing units to be switched between vehicles that it doesn't handle that, but it is a step in the right direction.

They also offer have a project to customize the MyLink startup screen.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

So your lookin at $500+ for a harness and reprogram + another$300-500 radio box-controls & bezel-Display & bezel--used--and then looks like wiring between units is needed besides the main harness--which would likely involve removal of dash to install correctly + the possibility the modules might not cooperate with the rest of the car modules and need dealer intervention which may or may not be available or even possible----hardly seems worth even attempting, honestly would be easier to just sell the under-equip cruze and buy the one equip with what you wanted---especially when it comes to the radio, these cars where designed to stop any interchanging of parts model to model mostly due to the theft deterrent features but also due to the integration with the various other systems in the car--it becomes next to impossible to do this and certainly no bargain price wise and those that have tried have lost functions at the least or spent the money and got nothing but a patched up after thought of a radio--the Chinese solution for example


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

KENSTV123 said:


> So your lookin at $500+ for a harness and reprogram + another$300-500 radio box-controls & bezel-Display & bezel--used--and then looks like wiring between units is needed besides the main harness--which would likely involve removal of dash to install correctly + the possibility the modules might not cooperate with the rest of the car modules and need dealer intervention which may or may not be available or even possible----hardly seems worth even attempting, honestly would be easier to just sell the under-equip cruze and buy the one equip with what you wanted---especially when it comes to the radio, these cars where designed to stop any interchanging of parts model to model mostly due to the theft deterrent features but also due to the integration with the various other systems in the car--it becomes next to impossible to do this and certainly no bargain price wise and those that have tried have lost functions at the least or spent the money and got nothing but a patched up after thought of a radio--the Chinese solution for example


I'm not trying to be a jerk or anything, but I get the impression you didn't read the entire thread. The harness and reprogramming are not cheap, but the hardware (radio, display & front controls (which may or may not actually need to be upgraded btw)) can be purchased on ebay for $50-100 TOTAL. I have not seen any posts in this thread that stated any compatibility issues with the rest of the vehicle components let alone anyone else finding the upgrade to be 'next to impossible' or even impossible.

Given the prices that I have seen over the last 2 years for 2 din aftermarket systems and the extras such as adapters to retain factory alerts, steering wheel controls and onstar (if used), wiring harnesses AND rather strange looking mounting kits, this is still a better deal AND a lot easier to do. Not to mention a better idea than trading in a vehicle an owner has customized to meet their needs and wants for another vehicle they would have to start all over on.

But hey...... to each their own.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I doubt that we will ever be able to get the cost of the wiring harness down to a lower price (unless someone else decides to start producing them).


Assuming the harness doesn't have a custom module, how much would it be to buy a couple of junkyard harnesses (one that matches your car and one that matches a factory MyLink) and splice them together? It really seems like there should be a cheaper solution to this. 




StLouisCPhT said:


> I'm more interested in the unlock service. There is a sourceforge project for unlocking Video In Motion and Mirrorlink on the 2012-2014 models. I assume that since it doesn't mention anything about allowing units to be switched between vehicles that it doesn't handle that, but it is a step in the right direction.


From the write-up, I think this is for the Russian MyLink - totally different animal.

If all that's needed is to get around the anti-theft, there's a post on here somewhere about a guy who unsoldered the prom, changed the VIN and burned a new one. (The VIN is in cleartext.)




KENSTV123 said:


> So your lookin at $500+ for a harness and reprogram + another$300-500 radio box-controls & bezel-Display & bezel--used--and then looks like wiring between units is needed besides the main harness--which would likely involve removal of dash to install correctly ...


When I looked up the part numbers on eBay, it looked like you could get them for about $120. Less, with careful shopping. That's where I got my "about $600" figure.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

KENSTV123 said:


> So your lookin at $500+ for a harness and reprogram + another$300-500 radio box-controls & bezel-Display & bezel--used--and then looks like wiring between units is needed besides the main harness--which would likely involve removal of dash to install correctly + the possibility the modules might not cooperate with the rest of the car modules and need dealer intervention which may or may not be available or even possible----hardly seems worth even attempting, honestly would be easier to just sell the under-equip cruze and buy the one equip with what you wanted---especially when it comes to the radio, these cars where designed to stop any interchanging of parts model to model mostly due to the theft deterrent features but also due to the integration with the various other systems in the car--it becomes next to impossible to do this and certainly no bargain price wise and those that have tried have lost functions at the least or spent the money and got nothing but a patched up after thought of a radio--the Chinese solution for example


There are no issues with integration, the radio works perfectly. The dash doesn't have to be removed, just the glove box and trim pieces. It tools me 30 minutes tops to complete it. The total cost for everything was $739. Well worth it considering I get backup camera functionality, bluetooth streaming and the touchscreen OEM, instead of paying for a module to retain OnStar, wiring aftermarket to vehicle, this was much easier and faster and works like a charm!


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> Assuming the harness doesn't have a custom module, how much would it be to buy a couple of junkyard harnesses (one that matches your car and one that matches a factory MyLink) and splice them together? It really seems like there should be a cheaper solution to this.


I tried a junkyard harness bought from eBay, and the radio doesn't even power on. The control buttons also have an extra 4 pins on the bottom, and a wire is missing on harness that you would need, so the expensive harness is required, and it is well worth it.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> From the write-up, I think this is for the Russian MyLink - totally different animal.
> 
> If all that's needed is to get around the anti-theft, there's a post on here somewhere about a guy who unsoldered the prom, changed the VIN and burned a new one. (The VIN is in cleartext.)


I know the firmwares are hosted on a ru site, but they do reference one as the official firmware for the cruze (cruise lol). I for one am not anxious to test them though. Also, I saw posts by the author of the project on another site and I believe it said he is in the US.

I'm great at solder work, been doing it since 92 when the fuse in my old Apple //c's power brick died and I had to replace it .... don't have the gear to reprogram though, otherwise I would just go that route. I believe the post also showed a specific pin that could be unsoldered and would bypass the VIN check.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> There are no issues with integration, the radio works perfectly. The dash doesn't have to be removed, just the glove box and trim pieces. It tools me 30 minutes tops to complete it. The total cost for everything was $739. Well worth it considering I get backup camera functionality, bluetooth streaming and the touchscreen OEM, instead of paying for a module to retain OnStar, wiring aftermarket to vehicle, this was much easier and faster and works like a charm!


I realized that person has been a member about as long as this thread has been around, yet never posted on it before... smells like a troll to me even though they have a lot of posts.

Thanks for giving a time estimate on the work as well as cost. Did you try your OEM controls first to see if they actually needed to be replaced or not? I suspect they might not need to be since we aren't dealing with the navigation version. (Am I the only one that finds it funny they could fit the word config on a button but couldn't fit source and had to shorten it?)

Speaking of the MyLink Nav, I saw a post over on the GMC terrain forums about a person adding one to 2010/2011 Equinoxs. They posted pics and directions on the wiring needed. I sent an email to MVI asking if they could do a custom harness for the Cruze using that post as a guide. Will let everyone know what I find out.

A few questions: 
1) The manuals for the 2013, 2014 & 2015 mylink systems say they can read unprotected AAC format media files via USB flash drives and the drives can be in NTFS format. That is a major change over the PDIM system. Can you or a friend verify that on your system?

2) Do bluetooth devices still see the original handsfree BT network or did connecting into the onstar wiring disable it?

3) Does the mylink system display changes to climate control or do we lose that (kind of useless) feature?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> don't have the gear to reprogram though, otherwise I would just go that route.


Prom programmers that connect to your computer are cheap. If I could find that stupid post, I'd know the prom number and look up the price. But I'm thinking it would be around $20-50 or so. A hex editor can be had for free. So, if you have the skills, this is well within budget.

Edit: Found the thread!. While he wasn't totally successful, he did unlock the radio. You can buy USB programmers for that chip for about $10 on eBay.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> There are no issues with integration, the radio works perfectly. The dash doesn't have to be removed, just the glove box and trim pieces. It tools me 30 minutes tops to complete it. The total cost for everything was $739. Well worth it considering I get backup camera functionality, bluetooth streaming and the touchscreen OEM, instead of paying for a module to retain OnStar, wiring aftermarket to vehicle, this was much easier and faster and works like a charm!


Have any pictures to post ??


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> I successfully did this upgrade in my 2011 Cruze Eco A/T





ChevyGuy said:


> Prom programmers that connect to your computer are cheap. If I could find that stupid post, I'd know the prom number and look up the price. But I'm thinking it would be around $20-50 or so. A hex editor can be had for free. So, if you have the skills, this is well within budget.
> 
> Edit: Found the thread!. While he wasn't totally successful, he did unlock the radio. You can buy USB programmers for that chip for about $10 on eBay.



Hmm, I might just do that. I don't need any of the in motion stuff that GTPPrix offers, so this would definitely be a money saver.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Hmm, I might just do that. I don't need any of the in motion stuff that GTPPrix offers, so this would definitely be a money saver.


As long as you can get the surface mount chip off and back on this is indeed an easy job, most of us repair guys are doing it now so I would recommend taking it to a shop if your not skilled enough since the radio would become a door stop otherwise, keep in mind this would only allow a radio box of the same type to work in your car--in other words satisfies the theft deterrent program in the cars BCM computer, as for the other programing to make the various modules be on the same page and work together I think the RPO codes are what really makes the difference, some wiring all the way back to the trunk dose not exist depending on the RPO codes so possibly the ones who successfully changed to the color mylink were not trying to get GPS or rear camera or pioneer audio amp since those all require more wiring than just the dash harness, I really think the guy with 2 posts and says a 1/2 hr job is possibly the guy selling the reprogram and harness-------


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

KENSTV123 said:


> As long as you can get the surface mount chip off and back on this is indeed an easy job, most of us repair guys are doing it now so I would recommend taking it to a shop if your not skilled enough since the radio would become a door stop otherwise, keep in mind this would only allow a radio box of the same type to work in your car--in other words satisfies the theft deterrent program in the cars BCM computer, as for the other programing to make the various modules be on the same page and work together I think the RPO codes are what really makes the difference, some wiring all the way back to the trunk dose not exist depending on the RPO codes so possibly the ones who successfully changed to the color mylink were not trying to get GPS or rear camera or pioneer audio amp since those all require more wiring than just the dash harness, I really think the guy with 2 posts and says a 1/2 hr job is possibly the guy selling the reprogram and harness-------



1) RPO codes are build options for parts, and in my experience don't have much of an impact on vehicles, unless it is something that interfaces with the main computer. For example I added keyless entry and a floor mount tape deck to a 2001 Blazer and added fogs lights, an auto dimming rear view mirror w/ onstar, and a Bluetooth compatible PDIM to my Cruze. All parts were located using the part numbers found on GM's own parts lists and purchased from Chevrolet Dealers online. Out of all those items, only the keyless entry needed to be programmed in the computer. Everything else was plug and play (the mirror needed a power line added in but still was plug and play). Keep in mind, the bluetooth PDIM was never offered as a option to the 2011 cruze and I've never seen a 2011 cruze factory installed with the auto dimming mirror. Now, it is possible that doing this setup could cause the loss of the display showing changes to the hvac settings, that is why I asked if it still worked or not. Personally, I think that would be a small loss if it did happen.

2) The post on terrainforums that I referenced about adding a navigation mylink to 2010-11 equinoxes that didn't come with mylink at all, showed that some additional wiring was needed for gps to fully work, but again was handled by the dash wiring harnesses. The person that made the post even stated that one could either buy an add on gps antenna or go oem and use a splitter to connect to the onstar antenna.

3) The reprogram and harness are being sold by 2 different companies, not by 1 person.

4) As a test today, I tried out the posted steps for this upgrade. It took me only 10 minutes to take everything apart and put it all back together again. I can honestly see it taking only 30 minutes to do the full installation of this upgrade.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I realized that person has been a member about as long as this thread has been around, yet never posted on it before... smells like a troll to me even though they have a lot of posts.
> 
> Thanks for giving a time estimate on the work as well as cost. Did you try your OEM controls first to see if they actually needed to be replaced or not? I suspect they might not need to be since we aren't dealing with the navigation version. (Am I the only one that finds it funny they could fit the word config on a button but couldn't fit source and had to shorten it?)
> 
> ...


1.) Yes, that works.
2.) Commecting to OnStar module switched that BT network off, now only CHEVROLET CRUZE shows up, and that does both BT streaming, voice recog, Siri Eyes Free, and phone calls. 
3.) it does change the display for climate controls. 
I'm not home at the time of this writing and in a different vehicle of mine, I'll post a picture later of the A/C control on the display.

I did try the original controls, and the required extra pins aren't present on them, so they didn't even light up or power on at all.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

KENSTV123 said:


> As long as you can get the surface mount chip off and back on this is indeed an easy job, most of us repair guys are doing it now so I would recommend taking it to a shop if your not skilled enough since the radio would become a door stop otherwise, keep in mind this would only allow a radio box of the same type to work in your car--in other words satisfies the theft deterrent program in the cars BCM computer, as for the other programing to make the various modules be on the same page and work together I think the RPO codes are what really makes the difference, some wiring all the way back to the trunk dose not exist depending on the RPO codes so possibly the ones who successfully changed to the color mylink were not trying to get GPS or rear camera or pioneer audio amp since those all require more wiring than just the dash harness, I really think the guy with 2 posts and says a 1/2 hr job is possibly the guy selling the reprogram and harness-------


I'm not selling the harness or anything- I did the upgrade and am telling others how easy it is to do, the ONLY setback is the price of everything, $739 seems like a lot, but well worth it. The harness I included the invoice for has the connections for a rear backup camera. So everything works. It seriously takes 10 minutes to take it all apart, 10 minutes to wire everything up, and 10 to put it back together. (maybe 15, depending on how fast you work.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

KENSTV123 said:


> Have any pictures to post ??


I don't have any of the install, but I have this of the radio functioning.
View attachment 211314


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> 1.) Yes, that works.
> 2.) Commecting to OnStar module switched that BT network off, now only CHEVROLET CRUZE shows up, and that does both BT streaming, voice recog, Siri Eyes Free, and phone calls.
> 3.) it does change the display for climate controls.
> I'm not home at the time of this writing and in a different vehicle of mine, I'll post a picture later of the A/C control on the display.
> ...



Well, it was worth a hope  not a big deal, saw a good deal on eBay for silver box and controls

Siri Eyes Free?? Hmm, well that shows that the 2014 silver boxes will also work. Presumably that means the 15s would also.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

mine was a 15 box, and it works.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Well, it was worth a hope  not a big deal, saw a good deal on eBay for silver box and controls
> 
> Siri Eyes Free?? Hmm, well that shows that the 2014 silver boxes will also work. Presumably that means the 15s would also.


This is what the A/C and heat controls looks like, radio was off on both pics but it does the same when radio is on. other two pictures are the bluetooth streaming. (shows up as Chevrolet Cruze on my iPhone but it won't allow me to upload screenshot of device list.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I had looked at 15 boxes and was going to get one... then I came across a box and control panel set pulled from a 2014 Cruze and includes the donor car's vin information. The funny part was that I didn't realize it WAS the combo until after they had accepted my offer of $40.00. I'm still chuckling about that.

That's okay about the device list screen shot. One of the Chevrolet dealers here has a couple youtube videos posted about the cruze and mylink, albeit climate control and bluetooth audio were not covered). I've never been to the location that made the videos, but their other location has ALWAYS seemed to be the one place I could count on for replacement parts for my 01 Blazer, 96 Grand Prix and my 11 Cruze.

The bluetooth audio display is what I am looking forward to the most. Won't need to take my iphone out of my pocket anymore to see what is playing.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> This is what the A/C and heat controls looks like, radio was off on both pics but it does the same when radio is on. other two pictures are the bluetooth streaming. (shows up as Chevrolet Cruze on my iPhone but it won't allow me to upload screenshot of device list.


That may be right for manual A/C controls. If this was the Climate Control, it should have a "set temperature" reading in there as well.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I had looked at 15 boxes and was going to get one... then I came across a box and control panel set pulled from a 2014 Cruze and includes the donor car's vin information. The funny part was that I didn't realize it WAS the combo until after they had accepted my offer of $40.00. I'm still chuckling about that.
> 
> That's okay about the device list screen shot. One of the Chevrolet dealers here has a couple youtube videos posted about the cruze and mylink, albeit climate control and bluetooth audio were not covered). I've never been to the location that made the videos, but their other location has ALWAYS seemed to be the one place I could count on for replacement parts for my 01 Blazer, 96 Grand Prix and my 11 Cruze.
> 
> The bluetooth audio display is what I am looking forward to the most. Won't need to take my iphone out of my pocket anymore to see what is playing.


Mine was the combo as well, $82.55 with free shipping. display was $62.88, I didn't do much shopping around. just looked up what I needed and bought the first listing on eBay. A 14 and 15 box, are basically the same. My boxes software was Aug 28 2014 and the programming place told me that meant it was a 15 box. so if you get a 14 or 15 box they'll ask if you wanna pay the extra $50 to update to 2017 software, they told me 14 and 15 boxes are prone to lockout and the 17 software fixes that. The update also gave me the guidelines for the rear camera. Bluetooth works great. I started my car with the key and had my phone inside on the 2nd floor and it STILL conmected and began playing music. WELL worth it to me.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

Glad there is serious progress in the thread. 

Siri is hands free in the 14 and up MyLink programmed radios. Press and hold the infotainment button when iPhone is paired or usb to the car open that menu. 

Set temps on the screen only works on LTZ since it's the only auto climate setup for NA region built Cruze. Same goes for those 8 fan speed settings where we either have 4 (2011-2012) or 6 (2013 and beyond)


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> Mine was the combo as well, $82.55 with free shipping. display was $62.88, I didn't do much shopping around. just looked up what I needed and bought the first listing on eBay. A 14 and 15 box, are basically the same. My boxes software was Aug 28 2014 and the programming place told me that meant it was a 15 box. so if you get a 14 or 15 box they'll ask if you wanna pay the extra $50 to update to 2017 software, they told me 14 and 15 boxes are prone to lockout and the 17 software fixes that. The update also gave me the guidelines for the rear camera. Bluetooth works great. I started my car with the key and had my phone inside on the 2nd floor and it STILL conmected and began playing music. WELL worth it to me.


I got the display for $35, both coming from the same ebay seller. As far as unlocking and upgrading is concerned, by luck there is a GM equipped repair shop close to me that I found an ad for on Craigslist advertising ECM/BCM reprogramming. I sent them an email asking if they had the equipment to do the VIN Relearn and updates if available. Will let you know what they say and charge. I give fairly good odds they'll do it, since I'll have the vin for the donor car to give them for the system.

If you look at labels for 13, 14, & 15 boxes, they all have the same hardware date of Aug 2012. So it really is just software builds that set them apart from each other originally.

i discovered the wonderful Bluetooth range when I got my damaged intake manifold replaced in early 2016. I was waiting for the technician to bring my car out after the work was done and noticed my Bluetooth suddenly connect and the iOS music app start up.... even though I didn't see my car anywhere. The tech was pretty rattled and said he wasn't expecting my radio to randomly start playing Epiphany from Sweeney Todd.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Re: Navigation MyLink

I just got an email from GM-Navigation regarding a harness to use the Nav version MyLink in our Cruzes.



> It is the same harness however you would also need the antenna as well. We sell the kit for $399 plus shipping which includes all cables required. You would also need programming best to text Anthony for more info and pricing on the vin clearing/programming of new radio.


Ryan, do you still have the option for Speed Compensated Volume under Radio Settings > Auto Volume?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> by luck there is a GM Tech II equipped repair shop close to me that I found an ad for on Craigslist advertising ECM/BCM reprogramming.


I'm not sure as the Tech II will work on the Cruze. It's a newer generation of car. An MDI might be required.

At least that's what this page suggests.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm not sure as the Tech II will work on the Cruze. It's a newer generation of car. An MDI might be required.
> 
> At least that's what this page suggests.


I mentioned it and contacted them because their ad references both tech II and candi interfaces. They might also have the mdi system.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Re: Navigation MyLink
> 
> I just got an email from GM-Navigation regarding a harness to use the Nav version MyLink in our Cruzes.
> 
> ...


it works still, but called "auto volume"


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## BrandoFisher117 (Mar 14, 2016)

@RyanAlan00 .. Thank you for letting us know how you got it to work. There have been a lot of threads regarding upgrading to the MyLink radio, but people either will get stuck, or just stop updating / letting us know how it can be done. Many have tried, very few have succeeded. Glad to hear you got it to work. Could I interest you in creating a DIY thread!?!? :go:


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> it works still, but called "auto volume"


That confirms that the same harness would work for both types of MyLink systems.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

For anyone that would prefer to change their vin on their own. I located the eeprom that contains the VIN information today. They went to a lot of trouble to hide it, putting it on the underside of the bottom PCB. Just re-flashed mine about 15-20 minutes ago. Still need to get a harness to hook it all up and enjoy the system.









The tricky part is the two pins on the right side by the tiny resistor (R606). The lower one of the 2 (pin 7) is a write protection pin. A simple desolder of 7 will release the protection and allow the change.


A big thanks to Digital-Kaos for providing the information on the IC and confirming I did indeed have the right one.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Where did you find the data sheets? I can find the manufacturer, but can't locate that part.

Edit: never mind. I found it. It helps if I read it as a "G" and not a "6".

The full part number is IS24C128-3GLA3. I'd much rather remove the resistor. Because it looks like it would be a pain to find a replacement chip if you should damage it.

So what did you end up using to program it?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I bought a cheap CH341A reader and test clip off eBay and used the default software for it. There are a bunch of different software revisions out there, but I used this one.

The software displays an icon to show where the chip should be located but it is wrong. Pin 1 goes in the bottom right, but you need to put the chip / clip adapter in the top four holes on the reader's ZIF socket, not the bottom four.

I personally think that finding and installing a replacement chip would be a lot easier than installing a replacement resistor that tiny.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> I'm not selling the harness or anything- I did the upgrade and am telling others how easy it is to do, the ONLY setback is the price of everything, $739 seems like a lot, but well worth it. The harness I included the invoice for has the connections for a rear backup camera. So everything works. It seriously takes 10 minutes to take it all apart, 10 minutes to wire everything up, and 10 to put it back together. (maybe 15, depending on how fast you work.


Ryan, you seem to have received a different harness than the one I ordered.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Ryan, you seem to have received a different harness than the one I ordered.
> 
> View attachment 211882


same one, they just gave you a cheaper price for it


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

GM Navigation where I purchased the harness also does the programming and ViN clearing much cheaper than White Auto, and also have these radios in stock, already harnessed and programmed making them "turnkey" just figured you all should know that, and that can save you money in the long run.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> For anyone that would prefer to change their vin on their own. I located the eeprom that contains the VIN information today. They went to a lot of trouble to hide it, putting it on the underside of the bottom PCB. Just re-flashed mine about 15-20 minutes ago. Still need to get a harness to hook it all up and enjoy the system.
> 
> View attachment 211730
> 
> ...


Could you just remove the chip from the old radio and put it on the new radio? Is there other information on this chip, or is it just the VIN number? BTW, Your link to the default software is dead.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> Could you just remove the chip from the old radio and put it on the new radio? Is there other information on this chip, or is it just the VIN number?


It's 128K EEPROM. I'm pretty sure it contains the software as well as the VIN. So you could probably swap chips if you're replacing a defective radio with the same model. I'd be less optimistic if you're swapping for another model.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> It's 128K EEPROM. I'm pretty sure it contains the software as well as the VIN. So you could probably swap chips if you're replacing a defective radio with the same model. I'd be less optimistic if you're swapping for another model.


Good point, they probably would have used a smaller chip if it only had the VIN. In that case, you probably need to re-flash the whole program and you would need to be careful or you could brick the radio. Is the VIN stored in plain text?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> Is the VIN stored in plain text?


According to this post and StLouisCPhT, yes.

The main reason I think it's stored in that chip is that we know the dealer can update the software. And it's not by changing parts. So the programming has to be stored in some kind of EEPROM. I can't see the manufacturer installing two EEPROMs.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

The MyLink upgrade is intriguing, especially if I could do the wiring and unlock the radio myself. In that case, it could probably be done for under $200 - at least until the demand for used MyLink systems goes up. I did a little research today, but I see a few problems that I haven't figured out yet.

First, nobody on ebay is selling the complete MyLink system - only individual components - and nobody is selling the cables. I noticed that the color MyLink screen has 2 cables, but the monochrome screen only has one cable, and I don't know if that one cable can be used for the upgrade. I also don't know if you can reuse the cable for the front panel. Maybe Ryan or someone else can confirm if this is the case. If not, then you would need to find or build the correct cables. 

Second, I did some research and it looks like the Pioneer system uses the exact same head unit as the standard system. I found a couple images online of head units that say they came from a car with the Pioneer system. It looks like they are the same Panasonic head units with the same markings as the standard system. The service manual shows that the same pins are used for the speaker outputs on the standard system and low-level outputs on the Pioneer system. The only thing I can figure is that it is somehow programmed in the radio. If this is true, then simply changing the VIN using a chip programmer may not always work. You might need to pay someone to reprogram it, if possible.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

For the software, just search for CH341A software. I think I got lucky with that google drive copy.


As for the parts, there have been complete sets on eBay in the past and probably will be in the future.. it's a matter of timing. Well, not just timing but inspection of the listing. When I got my silver box & control panel, I completely missed the fact that they were being sold together until I clicked buy it. The listing title and description specifically only mentioned the box (and the box part number)... the clue was in the photos. Likewise, I did see a screen and control panel set recently, but missed out on that one. You could probably ask a seller like LKQ or AutoTraders if they could pull you a full set.

Based on what I've seen in the GM parts catalogs, the radio wiring harness is part of the main wiring harness assembly and I did not see any kind of disconnection point. To get it, you'd have to get the entire harness. That said, LKQ is known to cut and provide wiring harness with parts, you could probably ask for a length of the major connections as well as the complete blue display harness and USB adapter cable.

Gen5DIY is also working on a upgrade kit and hope to have one by the holidays. (Jarod didn't specify WHICH holidays though)

Your best chance for compatibility is to look at auctions that provide the host vehicle's vin so you can check what equipment was used. Of course, you'll get some interesting surprises that way also. For example, my box and panel came from a 2014 Cruze 1LT that was only 2 months old when it was wrecked in a front collusion.

The post about the different models, reminded me of something I noticed. The VIN is indeed in cleartext.... and the line under it states what brand it is also in cleartext. In my case it said Panasonic.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> The MyLink upgrade is intriguing, especially if I could do the wiring and unlock the radio myself. In that case, it could probably be done for under $200 - at least until the demand for used MyLink systems goes up. I did a little research today, but I see a few problems that I haven't figured out yet.
> 
> First, nobody on ebay is selling the complete MyLink system - only individual components - and nobody is selling the cables. I noticed that the color MyLink screen has 2 cables, but the monochrome screen only has one cable, and I don't know if that one cable can be used for the upgrade. I also don't know if you can reuse the cable for the front panel. Maybe Ryan or someone else can confirm if this is the case. If not, then you would need to find or build the correct cables.
> 
> Second, I did some research and it looks like the Pioneer system uses the exact same head unit as the standard system. I found a couple images online of head units that say they came from a car with the Pioneer system. It looks like they are the same Panasonic head units with the same markings as the standard system. The service manual shows that the same pins are used for the speaker outputs on the standard system and low-level outputs on the Pioneer system. The only thing I can figure is that it is somehow programmed in the radio. If this is true, then simply changing the VIN using a chip programmer may not always work. You might need to pay someone to reprogram it, if possible.


when I purchased mine, it was the silver box & controls & the display screen was separate. 20787112GM is the display cable, I purchased this on Amazon. The one cable can be used WITH the supplied harness from GM Nav. I tried going to my junk yard to get the wires instead of the expensive harness. It simply required a lot of pulling apart and cutting of a lot of wires, something I didn't have time to do/ didn't really want to. the harness from GM Nav was literally a 5-10 minute job. They mark EVERY wire clearly with instructions. I have VERY little experience with vehicles, just getting started( This is only my second car!), and it was a breeze for me.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I noticed that the color MyLink screen has 2 cables, but the monochrome screen only has one cable, and I don't know if that one cable can be used for the upgrade. I also don't know if you can reuse the cable for the front panel.


Same connector, different pin-outs. So it's NOT plug and play.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> 20787112GM is the display cable, I purchased this on Amazon.


That is not the correct part number for a display cable. It comes back as the heater control unit for 2007-2009 gm trucks/suvs.

You should not need to purchase additional cables. The recommended harness comes with all necessary cables per Anthony. The price and harness description on Ryan's invoice indicates that they were sold a harness for navigational Mylink systems (I06 is an external HMI based navigation module).


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Well, it's kind of plug and play. The additional wiring harness adds to the original connectors as well as rerouting some of the existing wiring. That said, I tried to hook up my new control panel to my original unmodified harness. At first I thought even the power wire was in a different place as it did not light up, but after about a minute the new panel's power button and menu/sel button started flashing.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That said, I tried to hook up my new control panel to my original unmodified harness. At first I thought even the power wire was in a different place as it did not light up, but after about a minute the new panel's power button and menu/sel button started flashing.


No, power is the same, but the signaling is very different between the MyLink and the Base radio.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I do have a minor question about the MyLink system. This is more or less a cosmetic thing, but does anyone know if these systems can properly display Japanese characters in ID3tags? The factory system in my Cruze flat out ignores them and just displays blank space. Which is quite annoying considering all the other unusual characters it can display.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Yeah, I saw that. I would have puzzled it out more, but it was too darn cold out even in my garage.


I'm not big on folk tales and stuff, but that all black woolly bear caterpillar I saw last month sure wasn't kidding around.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Yeah, I saw that. I would have puzzled it out more, but it was too darn cold out even in my garage.


Not worth it. The base radio talks to the display via the "Integrated Center Stack Serial Data". The display in turn talks to the controls via "Linear Interconnect Network Bus 10". The former has a + and - wire. The latter is single wire. So there's clearly some differences between the two.

In MyLink, the radio talks directly to the controls via "Integrated Center Stack Serial Data". The radio communicates to the display via twinax (video). The touch screen signals come back via the extra connector the MyLink radio has.

Bottom line, it looks like the radio, controls, display and harness must be changed out as a set. There's no simple way of getting a base item to work in the MyLink system.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That is not the correct part number for a display cable. It comes back as the heater control unit for 2007-2009 gm trucks/suvs.
> 
> You should not need to purchase additional cables. The recommended harness comes with all necessary cables per Anthony. The price and harness description on Ryan's invoice indicates that they were sold a harness for navigational Mylink systems (I06 is an external HMI based navigation module).


made a typo it's 20781772 but it's included with the GM Nav harness


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That is not the correct part number for a display cable. It comes back as the heater control unit for 2007-2009 gm trucks/suvs.
> 
> You should not need to purchase additional cables. The recommended harness comes with all necessary cables per Anthony. The price and harness description on Ryan's invoice indicates that they were sold a harness for navigational Mylink systems (I06 is an external HMI based navigation module).


The harness I was sold is for i04,i05,and i06. my radio is the i05 RPO code, per GM's 2015 ordering guide. (perks of working at a chevy dealer!) I intend to eventually upgrade to the i06 Nav now that I know how to program another radio myself. I just need the nav silver box & the antenna.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> made a typo it's 20781772 but it's included with the GM Nav harness


If it's included, then why did you buy it on Amazon? Just curious. 

I am still wondering how they program the base unit to work with the Pioneer amplifier. I looked at several base units from Pioneer systems, and there is no noticeable difference. It looks like they even have the same part numbers that are used without the Pioneer amp.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I am still wondering how they program the base unit to work with the Pioneer amplifier.


I'm not sure as they do. The amp may simply be designed to take speaker-level inputs.

Of course any new radio would have to be programmed with the new VIN, so it could be programmed at the same time. My understanding is that all programming is done via a MDI interface that connects the car via the internet to GM's subscription programming service - which requires the car's VIN and can look up it's build sheet. So in resetting the VIN, everything else could be done at the same time. All transparent to the dealer.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

To add to this conversation, I think what everybody is missing here is the firmware in the radios are different according to the rpo codes of the build---even though there seems to be only 3 versions of the radios available for sell from gm I think when you order one the vin is needed so the vender (Panasonic) can burn the correct firmware to the radio for the way the vehicle is equipped, what I mean is the same part number could have different firmware and is supplied according to the vin, so if you get a replacement system the best advice would be to get all the components including pioneer amp back up cam lane assist etc. etc. AND all associated jump harnesses, and yes pins and wires can be added to the existing plugs but non existing plugs do need to be added, what needs to be realized is all these modules have to be present when the system boots up and the firmware executes instructions since ALL the systems are uniquely integrated according to how the vehicle is equipped, the vendors of the different parts, radio box, display, heater controls and wiring harnesses, just tailor the pin outs AND importantly each firmware to work in harmony--even the different displays have different firmware's as well as even the heater controls, so just stabbing in various parts of a total system may or may not work as intended, think of it, you put a radio box in with lane assist and the sensors are not present--so is the firmware routine going to halt or not--hummm probably best left to the software engineers who wrote the code to decide IMO, nice to know someone has finally had some success at a price but if you want everything to work as intended the best bet would be go to the wrecking yard your self and pull all the correct parts and then have the vin changed


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> I think when you order one the vin is needed so the vender (Panasonic) can burn the correct firmware to the radio for the way the vehicle is equipped, what I mean is the same part number could have different firmware and is supplied according to the vin,


Dealers can update the firmware. Dealers can do the VIN change. So, I think it's more likely the dealer does the firmware programming - although from their perspective, they're just connecting computers and the "great GM" in the cloud is doing all the work.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

So the underlying question here is how far can and will the dealer go to update all the various firmware's and how much would it cost, I'm sure it is all programmable thru the global connection--not so sure what GM actually supports as to upgrades not sold ??? could be on a case by case basis or may not even be possible or even possible that tech training may be needed, most of their code is military hardened type code since it has to be really failsafe or it would be extremely costly to fix--


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> So the underlying question here is how far can and will the dealer go to update all the various firmware's and how much would it cost, I'm sure it is all programmable thru the global connection--not so sure what GM actually supports as to upgrades not sold ???


Good question. From what I've seen here, upgrades are not supported by GM or the dealer. Some folks seem to have worked around the system by finding a VIN that has the desired options. So we're left to figure this out for ourselves or go to some third party to find the code.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Yeah I wish the government would clamp down on all this crap, just seems a consumer should have access to any and all parts of a product that costs so much, I know at one time they made them divulge all the obd2 stuff but nowadays there are usually 20+ computer systems running in most vehicles, not having access to all those systems can result in some large bills at the dealer for something that can be done in seconds on a computer, going at each programed module would be the hardest way to reprogram but some sub systems-radio display and instrument cluster may not actually be re-programmable down the various busses


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> If it's included, then why did you buy it on Amazon? Just curious.
> 
> I am still wondering how they program the base unit to work with the Pioneer amplifier. I looked at several base units from Pioneer systems, and there is no noticeable difference. It looks like they even have the same part numbers that are used without the Pioneer amp.


I bought it before I got the harness that included it, so I just returned it to Amazon and got a refund.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> Dealers can update the firmware. Dealers can do the VIN change. So, I think it's more likely the dealer does the firmware programming - although from their perspective, they're just connecting computers and the "great GM" in the cloud is doing all the work.


I am guessing that this is most likely the case. The radios probably don't have a lot of hardware differences. But, when the car is manufactured, I imagine that they plug it into the computer, punch in the VIN number and the computer programs everything to match the options on the vehicle.



ChevyGuy said:


> The amp may simply be designed to take speaker-level inputs.


This is very possible. The service manual says that the same outputs can be either speaker level or low level. Should be able to test this by just connecting a speaker to the output. 

Based on the posts from @RyanAlan00, it sounds like GM Navigation can reprogram the radio for other RPOs and even update to the latest software.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

dhpnet said:


> I am guessing that this is most likely the case. The radios probably don't have a lot of hardware differences. But, when the car is manufactured, I imagine that they plug it into the computer, punch in the VIN number and the computer programs everything to match the options on the vehicle.


 That's usually what you get as an answer when you try to get them to program new parts like 6 speed fan control in a 4 speed fan 11-12 or MyLink. 1 member had an inside connection with dealer but not sure if they came back to update us on that setup and if it worked flawlessly.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> I am guessing that this is most likely the case. The radios probably don't have a lot of hardware differences. But, when the car is manufactured, I imagine that they plug it into the computer, punch in the VIN number and the computer programs everything to match the options on the vehicle.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


GM Navigation can do so, yes. White Auto not only flashed mine. My silver box came from a 2015 2LT, and the software was "early 15, late 14" so I paid the extra $50 to update to the 2017 software. (I was thinking by that it may be 2nd gen Cruze MyLink software, but was wrong. That gave me backup camera guidelines and Siri Eyes Free, just completed the backup camera install today. could you do something for me, and explain in full detail how I can flash one myself? Now that I can self flash and that my harness will work with Nav, I want the Nav!


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

Merc6 said:


> That's usually what you get as an answer when you try to get them to program new parts like 6 speed fan control in a 4 speed fan 11-12 or MyLink. 1 member had an inside connection with dealer but not sure if they came back to update us on that setup and if it worked flawlessly.


I have an "inside" connection as I work as a Chevy dealer, and they absolutely would NOT budge and even attempt the MyLink upgrade or even the 6 speed fan upgrade. They say The General (GM) severely frowns upon doing so very much, and they COULD lose funding for warranties if caught doing so. Stupid imo.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> could you do something for me, and explain in full detail how I can flash one myself? Now that I can self flash and that my harness will work with Nav, I want the Nav!


Here is how I understand it. 

First, you need a CH341A EEPROM reader/writer, like this:

USB BIOS EEPROM SPI FLASH Programmer CH341A 24 25 series 

You can remove the chip from the board to program it, or you can purchase a SOIC8 EEPROM test clip, like this. The test clip allows you to program the chip without removing it from the PC board. 

SOIC8 SOP8 Test Clip For EEPROM 93CXX / 25CXX / 24CXX in-circuit FAST SHIP USA | eBay

According to @StLousCPhT, you do need to unsolder and lift pin 7. This pin is a write protection pin. His previous post explains where to find the chip. 

You need to connect the reader to your computer and install the drivers and software. Here is a video that explains this. The video also has links to the software and instructions on how to read and program the chip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0ChYNwunUE

You need to connect the chip to the reader so that pin 1 is nearest to the lever that holds/releases the chip from the reader. 

It would probably be best to first download the program from the chip and save a backup in case anything goes wrong. Then you can view the contents of the chip. In the software, the left side of the screen shows the actual program, which is displayed in Hexadecimal numbers. The right side shows a translation in plain text. Since the program is compiled, you won't be able to tell what any of it means. It's also not very likely that you will be able to see or change any RPO codes. 

According to StLousCPhT, the VIN number is not encrypted, which is very fortunate for all of us. So you will need to carefully look through the code and find the VIN number from the previous car and update it to your VIN number, then write everything back to the chip. 

To upgrade the firmware, you do that through the radio user interface. Here is a video that explains how to update the firmware. This also includes links to a newer version (24.5)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJuks-l4Qq4 

I haven't tried any of this yet, so maybe someone else has some additional instructions or suggestions. Any help is appreciated.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> According to @StLousCPhT, you do need to unsolder and lift pin 7. This pin is a write protection pin. His previous post explains where to find the chip.


Personally, I think it's safer to remember the resistor on that pin. Resistors are easy to find and you can always jury-rig something. You screw up that chip - it's going to be hard to find.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> The service manual says that the same outputs can be either speaker level or low level. Should be able to test this by just connecting a speaker to the output.
> 
> Doubt that is true, looks to be a line level output, just not in the millivolt range, wires are not shielded
> 
> ...


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Everything dhpnet stated is correct, with a few exceptions. 

1) You could always pop off the resistor to defeat the write protection if you aren't comfortable with soldering.

2) The video showing the placement of pin 1 is NOT correct. It might vary depending on the brand of programmer used. For example, I found that pin 8 was closest to the lever, but that I had to use the pin block that was closest to the USB connector.

2) Trust me, you will NOT miss the vin in the code. It is by itself. You can easily see the RPO codes. They are on the big white label on the outside of the radio box. All they are, are GMs internal reference codes used to indicate what options or packages are installed in the vehicle. I have almost never had any kind of compatibility issue or need for reprogramming as a result of adding RPOs to any of my GM vehicles after purchase (the exception was adding keyless entry to my 01 Blazer. I used the original factory module pulled by me from a salvage yard 01 Blazer, but still needed the computer programmed to see it). The biggest example of adding a nonstandard RPO is KTB. That is for the Bluetooth PDIM released for Chevrolet Camaros. The part works fine in 2011 Cruzes without the need for reprogramming, despite the fact that the only official PDIM is KTA.

3) I would not recommend using the 24.5 firmware. If you want to do the upgrade yourself, I would recommend 24.1-42504832 as that is a Cruze specific firmware and the most recent one posted online.

4) MVI's harness says to solder a wire to pin 43. However, that wire doesn't exist in the factory harness. According to John at MVI, that is the wire that sends the wake signal to the touch screen. If you choose to get your harness from them, make sure to ask if they will send a wire you can add to the factory harness; otherwise you can feed the wire through the harness and solder it to the pin on the radio.

4a) Jarod at Gen5DIY says all of their harnesses come with the wire to add pin 43. Presumably, this will include the Cruze Mylink upgrade harness they are developing.

----------------

Features I have tested and found to be working "out of box" (updated 12/16/2016):

AM/FM/XM radio

Automatic Date and Time set

SiriusXM Travel Link (Only offers Weather, Movies and Fuel (goodbye Gas Buddy!) information)

CD player

USB port

Bluetooth music streaming*/**

Bluetooth handsfree calling*/**

SMS text message*/** & Apple iMessage display & read* (on MY2014 icon only appears with bt paired phone, on MY2015 is always on but is greyed out if phone is not connected)

Center stack control panel

Factory installed steering wheel controls

Backup camera switches on when in reverse (no video as I don't have a camera yet, but it still switches to it when in reverse) (On MY2014, took approx 5 seconds to switch back to menu after shifting from reverse, on MY2015 it switches almost instantly)

Backup camera guidelines also work and can be turned on and off in settings (only on MY2015)

Siri Eyes Free*

MyLink voice commands

Onstar Turn By Turn Navigation (confirmed by OnStar as being radio programming independent)

Onstar voice commands (corfirmed by OnStar as being radio programming independent)

Sports Mode Profile/Engine Sound Management (useless as I do not have a dual exhaust system in my cruze) (only accessible when vehicle is not in motion)

OnStar built-in bluetooth network still functions also.


* - iOS 10.2 does NOT work well with MyLink bluetooth. The radio thinks it is connected, but iOS 10.2 will drop the connection requiring turning BT off then on (or rebooting the phone completely) to reconnect to the radio.

** - Android OS compatibility is unknown as I do not have android products anymore.... Though I really do like the HTC 10.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> Doubt that is true, looks to be a line level output, just not in the millivolt range, wires are not shielded


The service manual says the wires between the radio and Pioneer amp are shielded. It shows a circle around the wires with a line connected to a pin on the radio that says, Drain Wire (pins 29 and 30 for RF and LF). So, it is most likely line-level. But I have seen people post radios on ebay that say they are from a Pioneer car that have the same part number as radios from the non-Pioneer cars. Still haven't figure out how they do this. Maybe it's programmed, or maybe the ebay posts are inaccurate. 

The current radio in my Cruze (with Pioneer) is part number 22976137. I see dozens of these on ebay, and none of them say they are used for the Pioneer option. 



KENSTV123 said:


> and would brick the radio if messed up ... this should only be attempted by someone with both extensive electronic and computer skills


Unless you are willing to accept the fact that you might brick the radio. It's a risk. I have programmed bios chips before, and sometimes it doesn't work. But I was willing to accept that possibility before I started. Glad you mentioned it, because people should be aware that it is a possibility. And, messing up the chip and then plugging it into the car could add even more problems. Good to know the risks.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> maybe the ebay posts are inaccurate.


The 2 biggest truths of eBay: never assume a listing is accurate and rare doesn't mean the same thing on eBay as it does in the real world.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Been my experience with the cruze that even though the SM shows wiring-it is not present unless needed--right down to the pins in the connector, and yes if a circle is around the wires it means they are shielded IF present, my guess on the radios is there is a difference somewhere between the pioneer and non pioneer head unit, why the part numbers don't seem to distinguish between the two of them I dunno--maybe the vin sets off a part change, possibly a dash___ something, I do know looking at the circuit board of my blue screen radio I could see lots of not present parts, so the vendor likely tailored the boards for the app


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> I have an "inside" connection as I work as a Chevy dealer, and they absolutely would NOT budge and even attempt the MyLink upgrade or even the 6 speed fan upgrade. They say The General (GM) severely frowns upon doing so very much, and they COULD lose funding for warranties if caught doing so. Stupid imo.


I kind of understand why they do this. I work with a lot of manufacturers. They test products with certain configurations and they can't change parts that were not tested in that configuration. Changing parts without proper testing would make them liable for any unforeseen problems. And people today will sue manufacturers for anything. If you do it yourself then you are responsible for any problems, and you take on that risk. But, I don't understand why it seems that manufacturers purposely try to make it hard to do it yourself.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'd expect different part numbers if there's something physically different with the unit. I don't see an issue of them using a speaker output to drive an amp when the amp is factory designed to work with that head unit. I'm thinking the difference, if any, is in the tone curves the unit might have programmed in. That could easily be flashed when the VIN is updated.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Everything you stated is correct, with a few exceptions.
> 
> 1) You could always pop off the resistor to defeat the write protection if you aren't comfortable with soldering.
> 
> ...


4.) I didn't have the pin either, so I led the wire through the harness and soldered the gray wire to Pin 43 and it works like a charm!
Did you plug the black and red wire into the OnStar module behind the glove box? You have to fully remove the Module and plug it in the back of it. That should eliminate the onstar bluetooth. 
The USB cord, since I never have a USB charger for the car, I removed the rear cigarette lighter and ran the USB to my old PDIM, which charges devices perfectly, but because the factory USB was ran directly into the radio, the old PDIM will only charge devices, not play music. I put the rear camera wire under the rear seat and carpet and ran it along side the new USB and up to the radio. I now have 100% functionality of everything. (XM, FM, Bluetooth, Pandora, USB and CD. I also have the guidelines for the rear camera, Siri Eyes Free and there's an option in vehicle settings for Engine Soung Manangement and Sport Mode Profile. I assume this is a feature for the Camaro, possibly because I have the most recent 2017 software available.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> I kind of understand why they do this. I work with a lot of manufacturers. They test products with certain configurations and they can't change parts that were not tested in that configuration. Changing parts without proper testing would make them liable for any unforeseen problems. And people today will sue manufacturers for anything. If you do it yourself then you are responsible for any problems, and you take on that risk. But, I don't understand why it seems that manufacturers purposely try to make it hard to do it yourself.


It's simple really, to get you to trade in and buy a NEW model that has the features you want, sales numbers matter, and what drives 98% of every marketing decision.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

RyanAlan00 said:


> It's simple really, to get you to trade in and buy a NEW model that has the features you want, sales numbers matter, and what drives 98% of every marketing decision.


This is why I looked at the LS and jumped all the way to Eco. I sat down and figured out how much it would cost me to add the 1LT/Eco features to my LS and decided I was gonna spend 3 or more years trying to do just that. As these cars age the price for radio swaps can be better so long as threads like these continue the way that they are.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

RyanAlan00 said:


> Did you plug the black and red wire into the OnStar module behind the glove box? You have to fully remove the Module and plug it in the back of it. That should eliminate the onstar bluetooth.


I did not have to remove my OnStar module. In fact I did not have to remove my glove box either to access it. I only had to remove the underside vent trim then reach up and plug into the unused module port.



RyanAlan00 said:


> The USB cord, since I never have a USB charger for the car, I removed the rear cigarette lighter and ran the USB to my old PDIM, which charges devices perfectly, but because the factory USB was ran directly into the radio, the old PDIM will only charge devices, not play music.


Maybe there is a different harness layout in the Eco, but in my 2011 1LT, the factory USB runs to the PDIM, not direct to the radio. The PDIM then connects to the radio using a different set of wiring that is still in use even with the upgrade. However, I pulled my PDIM and sold it, so it is not something I am concerned about.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I did not have to remove my OnStar module. In fact I did not have to remove my glove box either to access it. I only had to remove the underside vent trim then reach up and plug into the unused module port.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there is a different harness layout in the Eco, but in my 2011 1LT, the factory USB runs to the PDIM, not direct to the radio. The PDIM then connects to the radio using a different set of wiring that is still in use even with the upgrade. However, I pulled my PDIM and sold it, so it is not something I am concerned about.


Do you guys that have bought the wiring harness have any instructions that came with it and pictures to share, I may be able to help simplify


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Maybe there is a different harness layout in the Eco, but in my 2011 1LT, the factory USB runs to the PDIM, not direct to the radio. The PDIM then connects to the radio using a different set of wiring that is still in use even with the upgrade. However, I pulled my PDIM and sold it, so it is not something I am concerned about.


As far as cabling pinouts go, the PDIM connects to the radio's AUX IN.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> As far as cabling pinouts go, the PDIM connects to the radio's AUX IN.


On the basic radio, there isn't an Aux In. All wiring runs through the 44 pin connector.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> On the basic radio, there isn't an Aux In. All wiring runs through the 44 pin connector.


That's where the Aux In is. Those same pins on the MyLink are where the Aux In jack in the armrest goes to.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> That's where the Aux In is. Those same pins on the MyLink are where the Aux In jack in the armrest goes to.


My bad. I was thinking Aux Port, not Aux In.

I'm currently paying the price for installing my stuff in a 30 degree garage yesterday (still was warmer than outside though); fuzzy brain playing havoc with my reading.


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I did not have to remove my OnStar module. In fact I did not have to remove my glove box either to access it. I only had to remove the underside vent trim then reach up and plug into the unused module port.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there is a different harness layout in the Eco, but in my 2011 1LT, the factory USB runs to the PDIM, not direct to the radio. The PDIM then connects to the radio using a different set of wiring that is still in use even with the upgrade. However, I pulled my PDIM and sold it, so it is not something I am concerned about.


In my ECO the PDIM WAS hooked to the USB in the center console, and the harness came with a USB cord that goes from the factory USB directly to the radio, the PDIM no longer works for usb music, but it will charges devices in the backseat, that's where I put the USB they included. Maybe your OnStar module was in a different location, mine was in a position where it was next to impossible to plug into the back of it, so it had to come out.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

No instructions or pictures with the harness ?????? as I said I may be able to help simplify the wiring, I do know GM has the connectors and pins available in wiring kits----


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

My OnStar module is in the exact same place. I just had to reach straight up behind it.

----------

The most expensive part of the harness kit is not the wiring harness itself but the twinax and USB retention cable. They start at $50 each. And from what I have been reading in reviews, 3rd party USB retention cables are not very reliable and have low cross compatibility across GM vehicle brands.

And no, I was not given directions or even pictures with my harness. Between that, not including a pinned wire for #43 (even though they had had another person report the issue the same week I ordered mine), and the overall prices that MVI charges in general, I have to advise potential installers to wait until we see a harness kit from Gen5 and what they charge before ordering or even trying to build their own harnesses. 

I had to work with the pictures and directions posted by modalita in the very first post and those were rather lacking in information.... although my understanding is they were using a prototype harness and as such it might not have been done the way the final product was anyways.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

OK thanks for the reply, I revert back to this is a upgrade ONLY for the experienced individual, way, way to many pitfalls for the average person due to the fact it's all being done the hard way--at least as far as the firmware, software and wiring is concerned, all those firmware's could be accessed though the OBD diag port, instead of having to break into the head unit both at the hardware and software levels, GM could do it all very easily but as mentioned that does not help car sales---more power to you few brave souls to even attempt to hack such a highly integrated system--got to love that hidden developer mode !!!


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

And I still disagree. This is actually a simple upgrade to perform and unless you absolutely have to have markers on backup camera as well as the illegal ability to play videos while driving, the radio programming services are an optional purchase now that we know how to change the vin on our own.For upgraders not comfortable with doing the work themselves, I am considering offering a vin change service for shipping costs and an hour of work time.

Aside from changing my vin, there has been absolutely no hacking of my new system. It is 100% original.

Total cost for my upgrade was only $349, which is very competitive to aftermarket systems when you factor in the additional cost of their wiring harnesses, mounting kits, and extra adapters needed for compatibility with the rest of your vehicle. That doesn't even include XM or GPS modules that are still optional depending on the model of radio.
-----------

Additional: for iOS device users, I am not seeing any issues with this setup and iOS 10.2 at this time.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> And I still disagree. This is actually a simple upgrade to perform and unless you absolutely have to have markers on backup camera as well as the illegal ability to play videos while driving, the radio programming services are an optional purchase now that we know how to change the vin on our own. For upgraders not comfortable with doing the work themselves, I am considering offering a vin change service for shipping costs and work time.
> 
> Total cost for my upgrade was only $349, which is very competitive to aftermarket systems even before you factor in the additional cost of their wiring harnesses, mounting kits, extra wiring adapters needed for compatibility with the rest of your audio setup and add-on modules to bring XM and GPS capabilities to them.
> 
> ...


I agree. This is a simple upgrade. If you are willing to pay for the harness linked in the OP or later, and you are willing to pay for the VIN programming also linked previously, then it should just be plug and play. And if you have patience and do some searching on ebay, you should be able to get the parts for a low price. 

Some of us are trying to figure out how to make the cables ourselves, and that is a more complex project. If you want this project to be easy, just buy the cables linked in the OP. 

Some of us are trying to learn how to program the VIN ourselves. Again, if you want this to be easy, just pay to have it programmed for you. Links are in the original post and throughout this thread. 

I can afford to go the easy way, but part of the fun of this upgrade for me is learning how to do this all myself. And, maybe those of us spending the time to research these things will be able to make it easy for others who want to try it themselves as well.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

While I am willing to do the vin swap, I'd much rather help others do it themselves.

After all, the title of this thread is MyLink Upgrade DIY is it not?

And in that spirit dhpnet, I do not recommend the green block 341 USB programmer. They are of very questionable build quality. I also bought a different style that is rounded at one end, gold plated and has a longer USB connector. I haven't used it yet as it arrived after I had already put my system in my car, but it does seem better designed and built.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Found this:

TerrainForum.net: HOW-TO: 2010-2011 Equinox or Terrain Factory Navigation Upgrade from Base Radio

This explains how to add MyLink with Navigation to a terrain, including how to do all the wiring. I checked my service manual and it looks like all of the wiring he explains is the same on the Cruze except for the connector on the radio control panel (I guess the control panel has a different pin layout in the Terrain). That's a simple adjustment. He uses salvaged pins from a cut radio harness for all of the connectors except OnStar. This would be super cheap with the only big cost being the Twinax, which you can get on Amazon for $20 with free prime shipping. 

From what I can tell, the only additions you need for navigation are the GPS antenna and the wire that goes to the Vehicle Speed Signal on the Brake Control Module (and the navigation head unit). It would be easy to add those and get Navigation as well.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I already posted that link, and I'm glad to see that I wasn't the only one that misunderstood it.



> to the Touch Screen Navigation system, Option UYS (this is NOT the 2012 and up ColorTouch/MyLink version since 2010/2011 did not have that option)


Based on the harness I received, here are the pinouts/wiring you need to figure out:

From the secondary port on the mylink radio, you need to run a 2 wire line to the OnStar module for voice recognition, 4 pins to the control panel harness and a duplicator harness/adapter for the original display harness. Coming from that duplicator harness/adapter you need to run a line down to the 44 pin harness as pin 43. This supplies a wake up signal to the new mylink display.

The OnStar harness is easy, once it warms up I will pop off the undertrim and take a picture of the harness plugged in so you know what pins on there. However, the rest is too much of a pain to disassemble and photograph.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Based on the 2014 Cruze service manual, this is how the wiring should be adjusted from the previous post for the control panel on the Cruze

In the terrain, he said:<QUOTE>Your first cable goes from pin 3 on the X1, to pin 3 on the radio control connector. The next, pin 16 on the X1, to pin 1 on the radio control connector. Next, pin 2 on the X1, to pin 2 on the radio control. Next Pin 27 on the X1, to pin 15 on the radio control. And last, Pin 13, to pin 4 on the radio control. </QUOTE


On the Cruze, this would be modified as follows:
Your first cable goes from pin 3 on X1, to pin 6 on the radio control connector. The next, pin 16 on the X1, to pin 4 on the radio control connector. Next, pin 2 on X1, to pin 5 on the the radio control. Next Pin 27 on the X1, to pin 8 on the radio control. And last, pin 13, to pin 7 on the radio control. 

Don't make any changes to pins 1 or 2 on the control panel or display. These are for power and ground. The wire that goes to pin 3 on the display can be removed if you want. It used to go to pin 4 on the control panel, but is replaced by another wire above and is no longer needed.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I already posted that link, and I'm glad to see that I wasn't the only one that misunderstood it.
> 
> Based on the harness I received, here are the pinouts/wiring you need to figure out:
> 
> ...


Pin 43 on the Radio X1 connector goes to Pin 4 on the display connector. The rest of his connections between the display and radio X2 are correct. (he calls it X4, but it's called X2 in the Cruze service manual) He said: Pin 5 on the 8 pin screen connector will go to pin 10 on the X4. Pin 7 on the screen connector to pin 8 on the X4. Pin 4 on the screen connector to pin 9 on the X4. And lastly, pin 8 on the screen connector, to pin 19 on the X4. 

For the two wires that go do the Onstar module:
Pin 6 on the X2 radio connector goes to pin 6 on the onstar X2 connector. Pin 16 on the radio X2 connector goes to pin 12 on the onstar X2 connector.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I still have doubts this would work as it is being based off work for a non-mylink navigation system. ChevyGuy, your opinion?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I drew it up and added the connector end views. For the camera, I used the lid harness because I am planning to purchase the whole chrome bar. 

View attachment 212890


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

You have too much time on your hands for 10:30pm on a Saturday, must be a Rams fan. :xxrotflmao:

if you are right, MVI did things in a seriously twisted way. For example, my control panel would not wake up until I had the screen harness plugged into the screen via the duplicator/adapter, even though the screen itself was not yet setup to wake up.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> You have too much time on your hands for 10:30pm on a Saturday :xxrotflmao:.
> 
> if you are right, MVI did things in a seriously twisted way. For example, my control panel would not wake up until I had the screen harness plugged into the screen via the duplicator/adapter, even though the screen itself was not yet setup to wake up.


Yeah, it's been raining all day, and I just felt like staying in and watching TV and did this while because I get bored just watching TV without doing anything else. 

What is the duplicator/adapter? 

Did MVI use shielded wire for the data lines?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I couldn't even tell you if they did or not. My electronics talents run towards the logic board side of things, not the wiring. That is why I tackled the vin reprogram so persistently. Photo 7 of the first post of the thread shows the duplicator with the screen harness plugged into it.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Interesting. I can't understand why the used a duplicate display connector. Doesn't really make sense. 

After high school I worked for a company that made computers for broadcast TV. I built a ton of wiring harnesses. I also programmed thousands of eproms and eeproms for the developers. After that I worked for a computer manufacturer doing component level test and repair on motherboards. I learned a lot, but that work has all been shipped to China now.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I don't understand half of the ways they wired things in that harness. If it wasn't for the fact that I don't have a removal tool, I'd have popped pins 5-8 back out of the control panel harness and returned it for a refund, then waited for a cable from someone else.

it really did not help that they did not give me any directions and modalita's post was so random on what went where and how.


if you can make a better, cleaner harness, I'll buy one from you and sell this pain in the butt.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Maybe that's why they used the adapter - because you would need a pin removal tool to use the original connector. Sometimes you can use a needle to pop the pins out, but the correct tool is always best. 

My goal is to make mine look factory built when I'm finished. I won't use the correct wire colors, but I will tape it all up and nobody will know the difference.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

One thing I noticed with the upgrade is an improvement is fm signal quality. We have one station here that always gave my factory radio headaches, but now it is as clear as diamond. They must have done some different circuit routing inside or are using a better signal processor.

I think I might have confused you. with MVI's harness you add pins 5-8 to the control panel connector and the duplicator is for the display connector.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I still have doubts this would work as it is being based off work for a non-mylink navigation system. ChevyGuy, your opinion?


I think there's enough different to cause confusion. The plugs have different numbers, and the guy talks about a VSS signal (Vehicle Speed Sensor, I think), but our system doesn't have that. 




dhpnet said:


> I drew it up and added the connector end views. For the camera, I used the lid harness because I am planning to purchase the whole chrome bar.
> 
> View attachment 212890


Nice. I'll have to do a more detailed comparison of my pinouts. I found one error on my part. I'm trying to figure out how to post my list. It's more of a spreadsheet.





dhpnet said:


> Interesting. I can't understand why the used a duplicate display connector. Doesn't really make sense.


If you want plug and play, I think that's all you can do. Too many changes to use the old connector as-is.

The thing I want to know is where you find pins and connectors. I have other projects I'd like to do and avoid hacking the existing harness.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I think there's enough different to cause confusion. The plugs have different numbers, and the guy talks about a VSS signal (Vehicle Speed Sensor, I think), but our system doesn't have that.


VSS is standard wiring since 2000 for GM. It's used by the radio to maintain the volume level in relation to engine/road noise when the vehicle is in motion. This feature used to be called Speed Compensated Volume (SCV) and is now labelled Auto Volume in the settings.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> VSS is standard wiring since 2000 for GM. It's used by the radio to maintain the volume level in relation to engine/road noise when the vehicle is in motion. This feature used to be called Speed Compensated Volume (SCV) and is now labelled Auto Volume in the settings.


I'm not saying the function isn't there. I'm saying the wire isn't there. It's all done over the GM-LAN now. In fact, outside of the the radio stack (silver box, display, controls, aux jack, USB), unless it's a video or audio signal - it's done over the low speed GM-LAN. That's including the signals for turning on and off, warning chimes, coordination between telemetrics, etc.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Digging deeper into this, the successful ones seem to be just the color display mylink basic system--gps looks like it would be way more involved


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

KENSTV123 said:


> Digging deeper into this, the successful ones seem to be just the color display mylink basic system--gps looks like it would be way more involved


Again, not really. According to MVI, they use the same cable for non nav and nav mylink systems, the only difference is that the nav systems also get a gps antenna. For building your own cable, dhpnet has it pretty much figured out, he just left out the vss line, which is a wire that would run from pin 20 on the smaller gray connector to the brake control module.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Incidentally, I found a 2014 Cruze mylink silver box at a local salvage yard today. Anyone interested? The screen unit and control panel were missing.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Again, not really. According to MVI, they use the same cable for non nav and nav mylink systems, the only difference is that the nav systems also get a gps antenna.


The service manual isn't clear on that, but after cross-referencing everything, I'm in agreement. (I suspect the 2013 service manual was written before someone decided to offer a non-nav touch screen.) The nav just has a GPS antenna. The big changes are between the "green-screen" units and the touch-screen.




StLouisCPhT said:


> Incidentally, I found a 2014 Cruze mylink silver box at a local salvage yard today. Anyone interested? The screen unit and control panel were missing.


Depends on the price. If it's cheap enough, it might be interesting to tear into. But without lines (which I think started in 2015), I'm not interested in upgrading.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> The service manual isn't clear on that, but after cross-referencing everything, I'm in agreement. (I suspect the 2013 service manual was written before someone decided to offer a non-nav touch screen.) The nav just has a GPS antenna. The big changes are between the "green-screen" units and the touch-screen.
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the price. If it's cheap enough, it might be interesting to tear into. But without lines (which I think started in 2015), I'm not interested in upgrading.


I came across a post from a couple years ago containing the wiring schematics for the 2011 Cruze without amplifier and with amplifier. I only looked at the non amp schematics as it is more relevant to me, but there really aren't too many spots that branch into w/ nav subsets.


The yard is holding the unit for me, cost would be $40.


Dhpnet: according to Wikipedia, Panasonic makes most of the Mylinks for GM. LG handles the Sonic, Spark and Trax versions and Bosch handles Cadillac's CUE version.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Dhpnet: according to Wikipedia, Panasonic makes most of the Mylinks for GM. LG handles the Sonic, Spark and Trax versions and Bosch handles Cadillac's CUE version.


Yes, Panasonic makes them all. The pioneer system only means that it has a Pioneer amp and speakers, but the radios are all the same.

I still haven't found a MyLink radio that came out of a car with the Pioneer amp. Called LKQ and AAA Auto today and neither had one. It's hard to believe they are that rare.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> I still haven't found a MyLink radio that came out of a car with the Pioneer amp. Called LKQ and AAA Auto today and neither had one. It's hard to believe they are that rare.


Rarer than you would think. Pioneer's site shows the option as only made for 3 vehicles: Cruze, Equinox and Terrain.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Corporate+Connections/Chevy/Chevy+Cruze
Click on the left sidebar to see all three vehicles


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

It's not hard to find the amp. Do a search for the part number 95228887 on eBay.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Maybe this has been answered already, but I can't find it. Does anyone know the part number for the USB cable the connects to the back of the MyLink box?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> It's not hard to find the amp. Do a search for the part number 95228887 on eBay.


I have seen many amps and speakers. I even found one ebay listing for a non-mylink radio that supposedly was in a car with Pioneer. It had the same part number as others I saw that did not mention MyLink.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> Maybe this has been answered already, but I can't find it. Does anyone know the part number for the USB cable the connects to the back of the MyLink box?


19118732 - comes up as Cable. Radio Antenna but a search on amazon shows it to be the USB cable.

19118736 - parts sheets show it to be the 3 way antenna cable needed to use gps with the OnStar antenna instead of stand alone antenna, but it comes up everywhere else as a USB adapter cable for GM vehicles. Looks like the number was repurposed at some point.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> I have seen many amps and speakers. I even found one ebay listing for a non-mylink radio that supposedly was in a car with Pioneer. It had the same part number as others I saw that did not mention MyLink.


I don't think you will find a MyLink/Pioneer combo. I just talked to my mother who recently retired from GMAC. She said she never heard of or saw the 2 options offered together on a Cruze.

another odd thing is that on part sheets, the premium sound system is listed as Bose not Pioneer.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I don't think you will find a MyLink/Pioneer combo. I just talked to my mother who recently retired from GMAC. She said she never heard of or saw the 2 options offered together on a Cruze.
> 
> another odd thing is that on part sheets, the premium sound system is listed as Bose not Pioneer.


Interesting. Maybe that's why I can't find a MyLink system from a car with Pioneer. 

The build sheet for my car lists it as Bose as well.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I did some research, and they definitely sold MyLink with Pioneer. I found several used cars that had MyLink and the Sun and Sound package (which was the only way to get the sunroof and it included the Pioneer amp). I now have some VIN numbers of cars with both MyLink and Pioneer. Maybe I can use those to get a part number for radio.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Again, not really. According to MVI, they use the same cable for non nav and nav mylink systems, the only difference is that the nav systems also get a gps antenna. For building your own cable, dhpnet has it pretty much figured out, he just left out the vss line, which is a wire that would run from pin 20 on the smaller gray connector to the brake control module.


The radio firmware and integration with on star module are different on the various radios from 13-15 as well as the other possible options which also are integrated, so I'm not so sure all this will work correctly unless all modules have the same COMPATABLE firmware, got to remember they changed stuff on the radios all along and it can be hardware and firmware changes, it really does look like some of you guys are just trying to sell stuff here which I do not think is allowed or even should be banned, leads to biased opinions and not actual truth or facts


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> The radio firmware and integration with on star module are different on the various radios from 13-15 as well as the other possible options which also are integrated, so I'm not so sure all this will work correctly unless all modules have the same COMPATABLE firmware, got to remember they changed stuff on the radios all along and it can be hardware and firmware changes,


Certainly a concern. I'm thinking changes between years are more likely to create trouble than between options. We won't know until we try.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Yeah that guys got it wrong, the software in the radio box remains the same for awhile as the build date goes up then along comes park assist rear lines etc.
these radios are different both in firmware and software but still built by Panasonic and even my 13 manual states the onstar module invokes a program within the radio which I'm quite sure has different firmware since some of the features did not even exist at the time the radio was made, the persistent poster trying to sell eeprom programing really does not get the whole picture and since his almost works thinks every combination of modules will work, as you can see from an earlier post the radio firmware can and likely needs to be reprogramed, one to fix software bugs making the early versions freeze as well as compatibility with other systems in the vehicle, believe me, GM has a fleet of software engineers that integrate all these modules, so if you try any of this, one, it's not supported by GM and if you brick any of the modules in the car it could be a VERY expensive radio upgrade----I have worked with electronics my entire life and would not even consider this upgrade !!


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I got a MyLink radio from ebay today. Paid $20, and it has the part number that would have been used on my car if it had MyLink (same options except for the driver's convenience package and the technology package, which is what gave it MyLink). I connected my ch341a programmer to the chip and read the data. @StLouisCPhT is correct. The VIN number is very easy to find. In fact, there is almost nothing on this chip. You can clearly see the VIN. Below that is the manufacturer (I assume PANA means Panasonic). Then it says COLOR RADIO. Below that you can clearly see the GM part number and the radio serial number. About a third of the way through the chip there are 5 lines of gibberish. Below that is the hardware date (same as listed on the sticker on the radio). There are a couple areas with a few characters, but 99% of the chip is filled with large alternating blocks of FF and 00. The most interesting thing was at the very end it said, FOX NEWS.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> but 99% of the chip is filled with large alternating blocks of FF and 00.


So, no firmware?? That's - really interesting. I wonder where the firmware is stored?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I had not intended to assist with this thread anymore after the way I was rudely blasted by Ken, but I wanted to congratulate dhpnet on his great deal and getting started on his upgrade, as well as inform everyone that I switched out my 2014 silverbox for a 2015 silverbox today and have updated my original post detailing everything that works without the use of 3rd party programming.

For those interested:

2011 Cruze 1LT:

2011 OnStar module (Factory Original, considering "upgrading" to an non bluetooth version)
2014 Touchscreen and Display Module (Donor car: unknown, did not come with a VIN)
2014 Non-Nav Control Panel (Donor car: Cruze 1LT)
2015 Non-Nav Mylink Silver Box (Donor car: Cruze LTZ)


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I had not intended to assist with this thread anymore after the way I was rudely blasted by Ken, but I wanted to congratulate dhpnet on his great deal and getting started on his upgrade, as well as inform everyone that I switched out my 2014 silverbox for a 2015 silverbox today and have updated my original post detailing everything that works without the use of 3rd party programming.
> 
> For those interested:
> 
> ...


Thanks.

I am also looking into making my own harness that does not change the original wiring in case I ever want or need to switch back. I have researched all of the connectors and I think I have it all worked out at a low cost. I may share all that information with everyone at some point so that anyone can do it. 

I hesitated about posting any more on this thread as well. Was a little annoyed.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> So, no firmware?? That's - really interesting. I wonder where the firmware is stored?


There is a chip on one of the boards that looks like a memory chip. I read online that Windows CE requires 4GB of space minimum. I would imagine that almost all of the features of the radio can be edited through the OS in development mode. I noticed on one YouTube video that you can even read the radio DTCs through the OS.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> There is a chip on one of the boards that looks like a memory chip. I read online that Windows CE requires 4GB of space minimum. I would imagine that almost all of the features of the radio can be edited through the OS in development mode. I noticed on one YouTube video that you can even read the radio DTCs through the OS.


Which youtube video was that? (I avoided all those videos while doing this upgrade, didn't want to get lead onto a path that caused me trouble.)

The Sega DreamCast showed that Windows CE doesn't even need that much to work. Although, between the late 90s and now, it is conceivable that CE isn't quite as small or streamlined as it once was.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I had not intended to assist with this thread anymore after the way I was rudely blasted by Ken, but I wanted to congratulate dhpnet on his great deal and getting started on his upgrade, as well as inform everyone that I switched out my 2014 silverbox for a 2015 silverbox today and have updated my original post detailing everything that works without the use of 3rd party programming.
> 
> For those interested:
> 
> ...


I was not trying to be rude and did say I may be able to help, the reason I have stated there may be problems is it is possible there could be software conflicts amongst the various modules talking to each other, especially since they currently have a firmware update to stop some of the freezing and other problems, I also think this project is not for the average guy without some experience in computer and electronic skills BUT I am willing to experiment and help---


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

OK here's some help, cut from link I can't seem to attach:
"Condition
Some customers may comment on the following concerns:

•Navigation traffic flow lines do not display correctly
•Cannot enter a destination
•Navigation split screen display issues
•Radio locks up at “Calculation Route” screen
•Radio locks up at “Navigation Initializing” screen
•Radio locks up with Guidance Alert
•Radio locks up when editing a destination address
•Navigation scale display does not display correctly
•Navigation changes map modes after phone call
•Phone pairing concerns
•Voice recognition phone book inoperative until after a complete ignition cycle
•Navigation POI’s not listed correctly
•Unable to call POI’s
•Navigation POI’s flickering on display
•Navigation “Show Traffic Events on Map” not fully functional
•Navigation shows Province list as State
•Radio resets with no user input
•After pairing their iPhone to the radio, the phone does not automatically re-pair and is no longer shown in the radio’s “Device List” 
•XM Weather Alerts Activate Automatically after an ignition cycle
•The bluetooth connection may be lost when replying to a text message
•(OnStar) (TBT route download) "Routing" screen appears and stays on display even though the route requested had finished downloading
•USB audio still plays through speakers while BT phone call is in session (No audio from phone)
•The radio display will freeze, go blank and come back on after a few seconds. The display may show the splash screen or come back on to the last screen that was displayed. The customer may notice a loss of radio control shortly before the concern occurs 
•The radio display may freeze for an entire ignition cycle. The display may be frozen on the wrong screen, be distorted, or have lines going through it when the concern is present. The display cannot be changed and normal operation will resume after an ignition cycle 
•Cannot edit phone device list when full
•Radio does not return to the correct screen after rear camera screen
•Prevents last rear vision camera screen from showing on the radio
•Rear vision camera did not go off in drive
•System does not play Podcasts when initiated from the radio"

This is a firmware update to the radios in question
Now if we can just get this file !!


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Full Text of radio firmware update:
#15-NA-081: Radio Locks Up and/or Resets, Bluetooth Pairing, IPhone Loses Pairing, Bluetooth Connection And Audio Concerns, Street Names Flickering, TBT Routing Screen Displayed After Download is Finished, XM Weather Alerts Cannot Be Selected Off, Voice Recognition and Navigation Updates, Various Rear Vision Camera Concerns, Podcast Will Not Play, Cannot Edit Device List - (Feb 22, 2016) 
Subject: Radio Locks Up and/or Resets, Bluetooth® Pairing, IPhone Loses Pairing, Bluetooth Connection And Audio Concerns, Street Names Flickering, TBT Routing Screen Displayed After Download is Finished, XM Weather Alerts Cannot Be Selected Off, Voice Recognition and Navigation Updates, Various Rear Vision Camera Concerns, Podcast Will Not Play, Cannot Edit Device List 

Attention: This Bulletin also applies to any of the models that may be Export vehicles. 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brand:
Model:
Model Year:
VIN:
Engine:
Transmission:

from
to
from
to

Buick
Encore
2014
2016
All
All

Buick
Verano
2014
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
Camaro
2014
2015
All
All

Chevrolet
Caprice
2014
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
Cruze
2014
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
Equinox
2014
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
Malibu
2014
2015
All
All

Chevrolet
Malibu Limited
2016
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
Orlando
2014
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
SS
2014
2016
All
All

Chevrolet
Volt
2014
2015
All
All

GMC
Terrain
2014
2016
All
All


 

Condition
Some customers may comment on the following concerns:

•Navigation traffic flow lines do not display correctly
•Cannot enter a destination
•Navigation split screen display issues
•Radio locks up at “Calculation Route” screen
•Radio locks up at “Navigation Initializing” screen
•Radio locks up with Guidance Alert
•Radio locks up when editing a destination address
•Navigation scale display does not display correctly
•Navigation changes map modes after phone call
•Phone pairing concerns
•Voice recognition phone book inoperative until after a complete ignition cycle
•Navigation POI’s not listed correctly
•Unable to call POI’s
•Navigation POI’s flickering on display
•Navigation “Show Traffic Events on Map” not fully functional
•Navigation shows Province list as State
•Radio resets with no user input
•After pairing their iPhone to the radio, the phone does not automatically re-pair and is no longer shown in the radio’s “Device List” 
•XM Weather Alerts Activate Automatically after an ignition cycle
•The bluetooth connection may be lost when replying to a text message
•(OnStar) (TBT route download) "Routing" screen appears and stays on display even though the route requested had finished downloading
•USB audio still plays through speakers while BT phone call is in session (No audio from phone)
•The radio display will freeze, go blank and come back on after a few seconds. The display may show the splash screen or come back on to the last screen that was displayed. The customer may notice a loss of radio control shortly before the concern occurs 
•The radio display may freeze for an entire ignition cycle. The display may be frozen on the wrong screen, be distorted, or have lines going through it when the concern is present. The display cannot be changed and normal operation will resume after an ignition cycle 
•Cannot edit phone device list when full
•Radio does not return to the correct screen after rear camera screen
•Prevents last rear vision camera screen from showing on the radio
•Rear vision camera did not go off in drive
•System does not play Podcasts when initiated from the radio

Additional Options
Only if equipped with Radio RPOs UFU, UFF, UFW, UHQ, UHK, UHR or UHJ


Correction
Updated software calibration has been released to address the above conditions. Update the radio using a USB FLASH DRIVE and the Service Programming System (SPS) with the files available on TIS2WEB and the procedure below. 

Note: The USB update required is not included on the latest Techline DVD release. At this time the needed update is available directly from TIS2WEB ONLY. The required Techline DVD release required to address all issues (2016.23) will begin shipping to dealers by mid March of 2016. 

Note: Some vehicles may require a VCI number from Techline (TCSC) if the radio part number does not show in the dropdown list in order to complete programming. 

Service Procedure
Note: If this USB update includes the radio RPO UFU without UP9, then radio programming will need to be performed after the USB update is completed. UHQ radios and UFU radios with UP9 do not need to be reprogrammed after performing the USB update.

Note: The radio will check and verify files on the USB stick before the update starts which may take up to 20 minutes. 

Note: Some vehicle radios will not start the update process automatically. If the update does not start after inserting the USB stick into the USB port, select software update in the radio settings. 

Important: This procedure is a USB flash drive programming event. This IS NOT a standard TIS2WEB programming event. The software downloaded to the USB flash drive can be used to update all vehicles involved in this bulletin. Be sure to use USB 2.0 formatted (FAT32) drive with a minimum 4 GB drive space. Also, it is recommended to use a ‘name brand’ USB drive to ensure reliable performance. For instructions to format a USB drive to FAT32, please reference TIS2Web Help, “Formatting USB Drive.” 

Important: Any existing data on the USB flash drive will be erased during the TIS2WEB-to-USB flash drive download process. To ensure important data IS NOT deleted from the USB flash drive, transfer the data from the USB flash drive onto another approved data storage device BEFORE attempting to download software from TIS2WEB. Once the software is downloaded to the USB, DO NOT add any data to the storage device. 

Note: It is essential that the TIS terminal, MDI, Tech 2® and/or Scan Tool are updated with the latest software available. 

 1. Update the radio using a USB FLASH DRIVE and the Service Programming System (SPS) with the file available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the SPS procedures in SI. 
Note: During programming, the battery voltage MUST be maintained within the proper range of 12-15 volts. 

 2. Connect the Midtronics® PSC 550 Battery Maintainer (SPS Programming Support Tool EL-49642) or an equivalent to the battery.
 3. Connect the MDI to the vehicle.
 4. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
 5. Select: J-2534 MDI from the Select Diagnostic Tool and Programming Process screen.
 6. Select: RAD/A11 – “RAD/A11 - USB File Transfer - Programming” from the Supported Controllers screen. if prompted to select the USB file, select the one that will be described as “new software to correct issues with rear view camera behavior; phone devise list editability ; Podcast behavior”. Refer to SI and SPS for programming instructions, if required. 
 7. Insert a USB flash drive into the USB port of your computer. Press the REFRESH button if your USB drive IS NOT selectable in the “Available USB Drives” box. 
 8. Select: NEXT from the SPS Special Function screen.
 9. Monitor the Progress Status bar at the bottom of the SPS Special Function screen. 
Note: The files have been successfully loaded onto the USB flash drive when the Progress Status bar is completely shaded and the SPS Special Function screen displays the following message: “Remove the USB stick and insert into the vehicle USB port.” 

10. Remove the USB flash drive from the computer when the Progress Status bar indicates that the software download has been completed.
11. Press FINISH from the SPS Special Function screen. DO NOT wait for the Completion screen to appear on the display. 
12. Insert the USB 2.0 storage device into the vehicle USB port.
13. The radio will display “No Files Found” – ignore this message.
14. Press the following radio buttons to start the update: Config>Radio Settings>Software Versions Menu>Update Radio Software. 
Note: A “Searching and verifying” message will be displayed for up to 20 minutes, this is normal. Once the searching and verifying message is gone, there will be a button sequence to follow in order to start the update. Please note that this is a momentary press of the “seek up” and then the “seek down” buttons. The “seek up” and “seek down” is referring to the button that is used to seek up to the next station or seek down to the next station. 

15. When the programming event has completed, turn off the ignition for 60 seconds.
16. Remove the USB flash drive.
17. The vehicle MUST now be calibrated.
18. Return to the SPS programming screen. Select J-2534 MDI from the Select Diagnostics Tool and Programming Process screen.
19. Select RAD/A11: Radio – Programming.
20. You must now select the proper choices for the build of the vehicle you are servicing. Refer to the vehicle SPID label or the vehicle build information through GWM for the specific RPOs the vehicle is equipped with. 
21. Once you have selected the proper vehicle options, you may initiate SPS programming.
22. The radio MUST now be reset.
23. Press the following radio buttons to start the update: Config>Radio Settings>Software Versions Menu>Clear and Reset Radio.
24. Select “Yes” to reset the radio. Upon completion of this step, the radio is updated.
25. Allow the radio to return to normal operation. 
Note: The radio will be returned to factory default value during this upgrade. 

Note: After performing this software update on the radio, please advise the customer to have the iPhone updated to the latest software version. The iPhone will need to have all running background apps closed and a soft reset performed before a fresh pairing to the vehicle is completed. 

Note: Perform a “soft reset” on the iPhone by holding the Home and the Sleep/Wake buttons simultaneously for 10-20 seconds. 

Note: Close all apps running in the background by pressing the "Home" button twice and then swiping the apps upwards. This should be performed frequently to keep the iPhone running at an optimum level. 

Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

2881028
Radio Reprogramming using USB
0.6 hr

(Encore, Verano, Camaro, Cruze, Equinox, Malibu, Volt, Terrain)

0.7 hr

(Caprice, Orlando)

1.0 hr 

(SS)


 

Version
2

Modified
February 10, 2016 — Added the Chevrolet Cruze, removed the 2016 Chevrolet Volt, and updated concerns and service procedure.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Which youtube video was that? (I avoided all those videos while doing this upgrade, didn't want to get lead onto a path that caused me trouble.)
> 
> The Sega DreamCast showed that Windows CE doesn't even need that much to work. Although, between the late 90s and now, it is conceivable that CE isn't quite as small or streamlined as it once was.


It was just a random video where a guy was showing how to unlock development mode. He read through the menu items. I wrote them down when I watched it. 

The options he read were: 
- System Debug
- EMC Test
- DTC GMLAN
- Message Test Mode
- Disk Play Test Mode
- IP2C
- MCOM Update
- Bootloader Update
- Mirror Link
- CTS Tool Test
- Mirror Link Driving Status
- Radio/Audio Test Mode
- Explorer Mode
- RDS Test Mode
- Tune Test Mode
- RSDA AF Log
- AM Test Mode
- Software Update
- Smartphone Link Version
- Smartphone Link Debug

The explorer mode is how you get into the Window CE operating system. There are a lot of videos showing this. When finished, there is a procedure you need to follow to get it to exit Explorer Mode. 

I am sure you have seen the Russian sites where they are hacking into MyLink. They talk more about development mode on this page: Development Mode | BYOM MyLink Вики | Fandom powered by Wikia

The following passwords are listed:

20110323 - opens DevMode 1
20110529 - sends a message IpcPostMsg
20110827 - opens DevMode 2
20120704 - sends a message IpcPostMsg
20120312 - closes DevMode

Menu items in dev mode using Google Translate on the Russian site

System Debug - debug switch, Task Manager 
-- Debug level - level debugging
-- iTaskMgr - Task Manager
-- MgrLog
-- EEPROM Write
Diagnostic
The Test EMC's the On / Off - The test for electromagnetic compatibility?
DTC - inoformatsiya about the radio antenna, microphone, amplifier, audio outputs, voltage
GMLAN Msg TestMode 
Dev Mode. GMLAN Test Mode
Display Test Mode
the On iP2C / Off
Micom Update
Bootloader Update - update loader
Radio & Audio Test Mode
Explorer Mode - access to the shell of Windows CE
RDS Test Mode
Tune Test Mode
RDS AF Log
AM Test Mode
SW Update - firmware update
Smartphone link version
Smartphone link debug

And he created a YouTube video showing some of this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGGj9zvttQI


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Unfortunately, the BYOM radios appear to based off the software (if not the entire headunit) found in the US Sonics. I am not brave enough to risk bricking my 15 box by poking around developement mode based on their sites. I might consider trying with the 14, but I doubt it'd be worth the effort of swapping them around.

i have tried all of the Cruze firmwares posted on the Russian sites as well as the one found on the sourceforge mylink project page and neither of my head units would recognize them on 4 different flash drives. Definitely not the same software as we need.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Which youtube video was that? (I avoided all those videos while doing this upgrade, didn't want to get lead onto a path that caused me trouble.)
> 
> The Sega DreamCast showed that Windows CE doesn't even need that much to work. Although, between the late 90s and now, it is conceivable that CE isn't quite as small or streamlined as it once was.


Sorry, I meant 4MB, not GB. I do that a lot. 

I found a Cypress 8MB chip on the bottom circuit board (S29AL008J), so there is extra memory for apps, images, etc. 

There is also a V850ES CPU chip on that board (PD70F3358A).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V850


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

"V850ES CPU chip " 
This chip has built in flash and ram--firmware probably resides there--unless there is a close by flash

Looks like an older embedded SOC (system on chip) probably need a test bed and can put it into de-bug mode to get the code, krackenbeard would know for sure, also possible to mount it and log it, above my skills for sure and would need to read after the update to the firmware, not easy for sure getting at the firmware, windows CE is a compact embedded operating system used instead of dos or Linux


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

The V850 used here has 1MB ROM and 60K RAM. It also has a CAN bus conroller. It runs at 32 Mhz. There probably is firmware on this chip.

Next to the V850, there is also a Philips DSP (SAA7706H). I imagine that this runs sort of like a co-processor. This has an AM and FM decoder, digital and analog inputs and converters, phone and navigation controllers, CD controller, MOST bus interface, audio level controls, audio equalization, voice processing, and a lot more. 

The power amp is an ST TDA7562. It is 4x25 Watts at 4 ohms. It includes diagnostics and a serial bus. 

I still haven't figure out how they handle cars that have the Pioneer amp in the trunk. I have confirmed that they use the same radio part numbers for cars with and without the Pioneer amp. It could be controlled in the firmware or the software. If we could figure this out then nobody would need to purchase a LOC to connect an external amp.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I still haven't figure out how they handle cars that have the Pioneer amp in the trunk. I have confirmed that they use the same radio part numbers for cars with and without the Pioneer amp. It could be controlled in the firmware or the software. If we could figure this out then nobody would need to purchase a LOC to connect an external amp.


Probably just different DSP settings. I think the amp effectively has it's own internal LOC.

Now, one item that's interesting - there's an "amplifier control" line that goes from the radio to the amp. The schematic shows it's one-way and pulsed. So it's possible that some type of volume control is done in the amp instead of the radio. This line is separate from the "enable" that appears to command the power on.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> Probably just different DSP settings. I think the amp effectively has it's own internal LOC.
> 
> Now, one item that's interesting - there's an "amplifier control" line that goes from the radio to the amp. The schematic shows it's one-way and pulsed. So it's possible that some type of volume control is done in the amp instead of the radio. This line is separate from the "enable" that appears to command the power on.


The service manual is pretty clear that the output to the Pioneer amp is line-level. I haven't confirmed that yet. I am still planning to measure the output on my current radio to see.

That is interesting about the control wire. Wonder what it does. 

It also just occurred to me that the power amp chip in the radio said the output is 25 watts at 4 ohms or 60 watts at 2 ohms. I noticed that the front tweeters and door speakers are in parallel, which would be about 2 ohms. So, they must be running at 60 watts, and the rear doors are running at 25 watts. That would confirm why the rear doors are not as loud. And, it also makes me think that you could get 60 watts on the rear channel by running a set of speakers in parallel with the rear door speakers. Someone would have to test that.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Could that amplifier control line you found have something to do with the sport profile/engine sound management option on my 15 box? Since it was pulled from an LTZ, it probably was used with a pioneer setup... would explain the option and the fact that I do not have any choices to change under it.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Could that amplifier control line you found have something to do with the sport profile/engine sound management option on my 15 box? Since it was pulled from an LTZ, it probably was used with a pioneer setup... would explain the option and the fact that I do not have any choices to change under it.


If your '15 box came from a car with a Pioneer amp, then it should have line-level outputs instead of speaker-level outputs. Have you tested it with speakers yet? Not all LTZs had the Pioneer amp.


----------



## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Or, maybe that control wire has something to do with letting the radio know that the Pioneer amp is present and to send it line-level outputs instead of speaker level outputs. That would make it much easier for manufacturing than programming each radio separately.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

I think that line is just remote on, much like aftermarket amps they use it to switch off the power supply controller IC, effectively shutting down the amp current draw

Also not going to get away with not using a LOC due to the way these amps work, speaker lines are at 6VDC and need to be ran thru an isolation transformer, otherwise your going to short the chip right out, all LOCs have this arrangement inside, the pioneer equipt radios have a RPO number for that function so there is some difference somewhere, from what I see they do send high level audio to the amp and then back front for the center channel, most likely the amp inside does take the high level signal and convert it just like the aftermarket LOCs do, almost mandatory, other wise they would end up with ground loop noise since the amp is in the trunk and grounded there and the radio amp is grounded under the dash, also the "DSP" is inside the amp in the trunk and the response curve is altered with pioneer system both there and in the radio box, which would explain the RPO code for pioneer equipment, if you read on here enough most guys are not impressed with the pioneer system and GM now offers a kicker system complete with sub box

The firmware update to the radio does address a lot of concerns but unfortunately GM does not want the dealer programing anything other than the RPO codes the car came with but you can see clearly they are able to put the rpo codes in, so we are stuck to either get the code off a radio that is equipt correctly for our specific configuration AND has the updated programing or just live with the bugs that occur, does sound like the places offering programing have this newer file--for a price


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

My factory setup is the standard 6-speaker build. I wondered if that might have something to do with the pioneer amps because even though the sport profile is there, there aren't any selectable settings under it.

i never did think to ask what your part number was.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

The part number for my original radio is 22976137 (UKU+UFE). The part number for the upgrade radio is 23206821. I looked up a couple used cars with MyLink and Pioneer and sent the VIN numbers to a couple GM parts sites. They both confirmed that this is the correct radio for those cars. This radio is also used in non-Pioneer cars.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> I think that line is just remote on, much like aftermarket amps they use it to switch off the power supply controller IC, effectively shutting down the amp current draw
> 
> Also not going to get away with not using a LOC due to the way these amps work, speaker lines are at 6VDC and need to be ran thru an isolation transformer, otherwise your going to short the chip right out, all LOCs have this arrangement inside, the pioneer equipt radios have a RPO number for that function so there is some difference somewhere, from what I see they do send high level audio to the amp and then back front for the center channel, most likely the amp inside does take the high level signal and convert it just like the aftermarket LOCs do, almost mandatory, other wise they would end up with ground loop noise since the amp is in the trunk and grounded there and the radio amp is grounded under the dash, also the "DSP" is inside the amp in the trunk and the response curve is altered with pioneer system both there and in the radio box, which would explain the RPO code for pioneer equipment, if you read on here enough most guys are not impressed with the pioneer system and GM now offers a kicker system complete with sub box
> 
> The firmware update to the radio does address a lot of concerns but unfortunately GM does not want the dealer programing anything other than the RPO codes the car came with but you can see clearly they are able to put the rpo codes in, so we are stuck to either get the code off a radio that is equipt correctly for our specific configuration AND has the updated programing or just live with the bugs that occur, does sound like the places offering programing have this newer file--for a price


There is a separate remote-on wire on the amp. Don't know why they would need two. 

The Pioneer amp uses the same speaker out wires as the base system, but the manual is pretty clear that they are line-level outputs, and the wires are shielded in the Pioneer system. 

I actually think the Pioneer system is pretty good. I originally considered swapping it out for something else. I even purchased everything I would need to install XRs tuned audio system. But, after I figured out how to tune the Pioneer system correctly, I have been pretty happy with it. I think most people who don't like it have not figured out how to tune it correctly. They think they have 6x9s in the back, and so they should have more sound from the rear, and they turn the fader toward the rear. That doesn't work.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> The part number for my original radio is 22976137 (UKU+UFE). The part number for the upgrade radio is 23206821. I looked up a couple used cars with MyLink and Pioneer and sent the VIN numbers to a couple GM parts sites. They both confirmed that this is the correct radio for those cars. This radio is also used in non-Pioneer cars.


That seems to be a slightly newer version of the 2014 box I have (23184129). The 15 uses part number 23476256.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That seems to be a slightly newer version of the 2014 box I have (23184129). The 15 uses part number 23476256.


True, but the hardware date is the same on the 15. They all have a hardware date of 31 Aug 2012. The only difference is the software. I am hopeful that we will find a software update somewhere that works.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> Now, one item that's interesting - there's an "amplifier control" line that goes from the radio to the amp. The schematic shows it's one-way and pulsed. So it's possible that some type of volume control is done in the amp instead of the radio. This line is separate from the "enable" that appears to command the power on.


The control wire is probably used to mute the amp. The radio does this during engine start and when other systems take control.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> True, but the hardware date is the same on the 15. They all have a hardware date of 31 Aug 2012. The only difference is the software. I am hopeful that we will find a software update somewhere that works.


There is a different design 2015 box with a sw build date of 11/21/2014 and hw build date of 11/20/2014. 23284452 is the part number.

Software wise, it probably is the CarPlay enabled system, but I wonder what was changed hardware wise. Especially since the 2015 box I have was manufactured in December 2014.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> There is a different design 2015 box with a sw build date of 11/21/2014 and hw build date of 11/20/2014. 23284452 is the part number.
> 
> Software wise, it probably is the CarPlay enabled system, but I wonder what was changed hardware wise. Especially since the 2015 box I have was manufactured in December 2014.


I wondered the exact same thing. I actually considered getting one. I think these were used in the 2016 Limited. I think this was pre-carplay, but it was probably the system that GM said they would upgrade to carplay for free. The Gen2 systems don't have the CD player and are a smaller box.

Who knows what the differences are and how they would interact with the rest of the older components. It could be a little risky, but it might work.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

On eBay, LKQ has 1 pulled from a 2015 Cruze and 2 from 2016 Cruzes.

If someone doesn't beat me to it, I might get one in February when my xm radio trial and xm travel link plan end and I can link the new radio to my account (assuming it works that is).

Sigh, one thing I hate about the non-nav radios: they only support SiriusXM travel link. The Nav models also get their traffic maps.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> There is a different design 2015 box with a sw build date of 11/21/2014 and hw build date of 11/20/2014. 23284452 is the part number.
> 
> I wonder what the differences are, other than switching to one antenna on the front. Especially since the 2015 box I have was manufactured in December 2014.


The radio boxes have had ongoing improvements from what I can tell, I have seen several different build and software dates also, some have rear entertainment support as well as amps, there is a lot of different part numbers but seems to be at least 6 flavors of it, does fit across most of GMs product line which I think was the engineers intent, it really does look like some of us have been saying all along that GM is able to configure the boxes from the big cloud in the sky computer--GM global connect
if you read the update instructions closely you see they say the radio needs to be "re-calibrated" after the firmware update AND they are able to chose RPO codes which=features


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> The radio boxes have had ongoing improvements from what I can tell, I have seen several different build and software dates also, some have rear entertainment support as well as amps, there is a lot of different part numbers but seems to be at least 6 flavors of it, does fit across most of GMs product line which I think was the engineers intent, it really does look like some of us have been saying all along that GM is able to configure the boxes from the big cloud in the sky computer--GM global connect
> if you read the update instructions closely you see they say the radio needs to be "re-calibrated" after the firmware update AND they are able to chose RPO codes which=features


Some of the others you were talking about are for the Equinox or Terrain. They had the option for a rear seat DVD player and for separate controls for front and rear audio. The versions used in the Cruze may not have those options available even if you knew how to program them. 

From my research, it looks like there were only 5 part numbers for the 2014 Cruze. 
UYE+U2K 22976137
UYE-U2K 22976364
UFF&UP9 23184127
UFU&UP9 23206821
UHQ&UP9 23208317

UYE is the base radio. U2K is XM. UFF (don't know - it's not listed in the service manual, and I have never seen one on ebay). UFU is 7" touch screen. UP9 is MyLink. UHQ is nav. 

The service manual does say that you need to program new radios with a scanner, and that it will ask for RPO codes. Best bet is to get one from a Cruze with RPOs as similar as possible to your current car. 

Looking on ebay, all of the Panasonic radios used in the 2014 Cruze have a hardware date of 31 Aug 2012.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> Looking on ebay, all of the Panasonic radios used in the 2014 Cruze have a hardware date of 31 Aug 2012.


The same with 2015 Cruzes that use the 2 antenna box version.

Really, it should be safe to say that any Cruze MyLink box MANUFACTURED before January 2015 will have a hardware build date of 31 Aug 2012


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Dhpnet, did you happen to see a line in your chip code that said FCC something?


----------



## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

KENSTV123 said:


> if you read the update instructions closely you see they say the radio needs to be "re-calibrated" after the firmware update AND they are able to chose RPO codes which=features





KENSTV123 said:


> Service Procedures
> Note: If this USB update includes the radio RPO UFU without UP9, then radio programming will need to be performed after the USB update is completed. UHQ radios and UFU radios with UP9 do not need to be reprogrammed after performing the USB update.





dhpnet said:


> UYE is the base radio. U2K is XM. UFF (don't know - it's not listed in the service manual, and I have never seen one on ebay). UFU is 7" touch screen. UP9 is MyLink. UHQ is nav.


This.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Dhpnet, did you happen to see a line in your chip code that said FCC something?


Yes, it said FCC RNA and then had the hardware date for the radio.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> Yes, it said FCC RNA and then had the hardware date for the radio.


I think that conclusively ends any questions about hardware builds. Both my 14 and 15 units say the same thing.


----------



## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Getting back on track with the thread, here is where we are currently at:

radio silverbox, center stack controls, 7" screen and bezel: $100 or less (Recommend radio from 2015 Cruze LTZ, Controls can be from any 2013-2015 Cruze as long as it has a srce button, Screen and bezel are cross compatible over GM vehicles)

theftlock vin change: $10 diy

wiring harness: $250-300 (hopefully soon to be a lot less)


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I think that conclusively ends any questions about hardware builds. Both my 14 and 15 units say the same thing.


Agreed. The hardware for the Cruze didn't change from 12 until the late 2015 models. However, getting a later version means you have the later software with bug fixes. Not really any additional functionality though. Might be able to update older radios if we can find the right software. Some people online have made it work. No idea how much the 16s changed, or if they are compatible. They might be, but it's a gamble.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> Agreed. The hardware for the Cruze didn't change from 12 until the late 2015 models. However, getting a later version means you have the later software with bug fixes. Not really any additional functionality though. Might be able to update older radios if we can find the right software. Some people online have made it work. No idea how much the 16s changed, or if they are compatible. They might be, but it's a gamble.


I updated my list post with my parts recommendations to get the most options and improve chances of newer software updates. Unless we get a guinea pig earlier, I will test that alternate late 2015MY/2016MY radio in February to determine if it is a viable upgrade option.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Could that amplifier control line you found have something to do with the sport profile/engine sound management option on my 15 box? Since it was pulled from an LTZ, it probably was used with a pioneer setup... would explain the option and the fact that I do not have any choices to change under it.


No idea. My car and manual is for the 2013. I don't know if it has that feature.





dhpnet said:


> Or, maybe that control wire has something to do with letting the radio know that the Pioneer amp is present and to send it line-level outputs instead of speaker level outputs.


The schematic indicates that the radio sends a pulsed signal and the amp receives it. I'm wondering if it has to do with controlling the levels of the subs since the amp derives the sub from the standard 4 speaker audio.





KENSTV123 said:


> I think that line is just remote on, much like aftermarket amps they use it to switch off the power supply controller IC, effectively shutting down the amp current draw


Nope, there's another line for that.




dhpnet said:


> The control wire is probably used to mute the amp. The radio does this during engine start and when other systems take control.


I'd think the power control would work just as well. I've got the keyless ignition, so the radio doesn't even fire up until after the engine has started.


----------



## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> The schematic indicates that the radio sends a pulsed signal and the amp receives it. I'm wondering if it has to do with controlling the levels of the subs since the amp derives the sub from the standard 4 speaker audio.


I checked the service manual. In the entertainment section, under the DTC codes, it gives descriptions of how the various systems work. For the amplifier, it says:

"The amplifier control circuit provides varying pulse width modulation (PWM) signals to control overall muting of the amplifier. The PWM signals are varying duty cycle percentages ranging from 0-100 percent. A low duty cycle unmutes all amplifier channels and a high duty cycle mutes all amplifier channels. The amplifier control circuit will measure less then 1 V when the mute function is OFF, and approximately 8 V DC when at full mute. The radio monitors the amp control circuit for faults."


----------



## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> "The amplifier control circuit provides varying pulse width modulation (PWM) signals to control overall muting of the amplifier. The PWM signals are varying duty cycle percentages ranging from 0-100 percent. A low duty cycle unmutes all amplifier channels and a high duty cycle mutes all amplifier channels. The amplifier control circuit will measure less then 1 V when the mute function is OFF, and approximately 8 V DC when at full mute. The radio monitors the amp control circuit for faults."


Good find. I wonder if that's really a mute or a volume control?

From the other posts, it appears that software updates are handled via the USB port while programming is via OBDII port. Perhaps that's why two different flash memories. I'd further guess that RPO codes would be stored in the same chip as the VIN.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Yeah and this just gets tougher, just found as I suspected, the firmware is indeed burnt to the radio for each specific application---even with the same part numbers they burn the file to run the radio SPECIFICLY to the brand and RPO codes AND the vin number, this is why the dealer can not support these radio upgrades, the system writes the file and the vin hidden in all the modules has to jive, changing the radio stored vin allows the theft system to pass but conflict like the controls has to be overcome for this to work, staying with the same year and brand would help somewhat, some of the changes amongst the brand specific differences like start up screen background are manageable to change but the radios also comm directly with the radio controls (B&W indirectly-thru the display) and those vary from model to model, this is a file that could be changed BUT we need a complete cruze updated firmware file to try and overwrite these changes, the two guys re-programing these radios obviously have this file but I'm not seeing it anywhere, the Russian ones would also be specific to that country complete with language fonts so the only path I see now is to data log the system or put it into de-bug and get the file, that is if someone has a 2015 updated radio to mess with, the firmware can be re-wrote to, if we can get at it, I did see a RSA encryption file that hashed out the key on one of the u-tubes so the code is somewhat locked


----------



## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Just so you know, the Russian sites and videos are working with the BYOM series of MyLink radios, equivalent to the Chevy Sonics. Their developer mode hack does not work with anything but those radios.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> Good find. I wonder if that's really a mute or a volume control?
> 
> From the other posts, it appears that software updates are handled via the USB port while programming is via OBDII port. Perhaps that's why two different flash memories. I'd further guess that RPO codes would be stored in the same chip as the VIN.


Actually not, firmware update can be done thru the usb port but gm will only load it thru their system, and the RPO codes along with brand determine what is wrote to the radio, all done thru the diag port, now if we have the right file it could be copied out of the usb to where it needs to go just like the u-tube shows


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Just so you know, the Russian sites and videos are working with the BYOM series of MyLink radios, equivalent to the Chevy Sonics. Their developer mode hack does not work with anything but those radios.


Yeah, given that the controls look different and the screens look different, I'd want proof these are the same radios before even looking at anything Russian.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

From what I found if you look at a radio part number and it says fits --- XXX--- then go pull the infotainment book for those vehicles, you find some brands have more knob functions and menu items, the code is changed to accommodate all this, the start splash is obviously different as well as the backgrounds and menu trees so having the correct firmware is a must, I've got a 2015 GPS radio out of a Terrain and it has rear entertainment as well as Blu-ray support etc., , they populate the circuit board to a certain extent then program in what's available on each flavor of the radios by software


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

This guy shows how to get to development mode on the Cruze.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kj1BHQNCPoc

Someone with mylink installed would need to try this to see if it works.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I just tried this on my non-mylink system. It brought up a menu that said:

Diagnostic Menu
- Read GM Part Numbers
- Activate Speakers
- Read Antenna Signal Strength
- Activate Display


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> This guy shows how to get to development mode on the Cruze.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kj1BHQNCPoc
> 
> Someone with mylink installed would need to try this to see if it works.


Ohhhhh, now we're talking! I'll have to try it.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I was thinking about this. The MyLink unit I have has a V850EX processor from Renesas. This chip is designed to run uClinux. So, how could they install Windows CE on it? But, maybe that's why our systems are not like the Sonic. It's possible they are running a micro-controller Linux OS, not Windows CE.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

RyanAlan00 said:


> The harness I was sold is for i04,i05,and i06. my radio is the i05 RPO code, per GM's 2015 ordering guide. (perks of working at a chevy dealer!) I intend to eventually upgrade to the i06 Nav now that I know how to program another radio myself. I just need the nav silver box & the antenna.


You are able to get into the cruze radio developer mode ??????


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I was thinking about this. The MyLink unit I have has a V850EX processor from Renesas. This chip is designed to run uClinux. So, how could they install Windows CE on it? But, maybe that's why our systems are not like the Sonic. It's possible they are running a micro-controller Linux OS, not Windows CE.


Now that's highly possible since most the embedded world runs Linux, what we do know is they are able to re-program the firmware or as GM calls it "calibration" thru their system: MDI combined with the Global Diagnostic System 2 (GDS2) software application which gets them past any encryption lock on the firmware, thru the USB port the map data base can also be updated so there would be access there also once past the lock, I did see on another forum where a software engineer looked at the USB for the map upgrade and it did indeed show RSA encryption, so the way in to the code is the boot loader routine they likely have in there, the way those usually work is the start up code (BIOS) goes out and looks at all the ports for the magic pass word, if it sees it, it then runs that code which in this case is the map update file, firmware would be the same, at least that is how TV firmware updates are run, now all we need is a software engineer experienced in embedded to mount the file in that DSP chip-----which is what the guys programing these radios likely did

Part Number for the radio firmware update to fix all the firmware problems: 23375143
Part Number for OS Firmware 15 cruze LTZ W. Nav.: 16005407
Part Number for Radio Controls Calibration: 95174791
Part Number for Rear View Camera Calibration: 94789728
Part Number for Rear View Camera improved guide lines calibration: 42371188


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I checked the service manual. In the entertainment section, under the DTC codes, it gives descriptions of how the various systems work. For the amplifier, it says:
> 
> "The amplifier control circuit provides varying pulse width modulation (PWM) signals to control overall muting of the amplifier. The PWM signals are varying duty cycle percentages ranging from 0-100 percent. A low duty cycle unmutes all amplifier channels and a high duty cycle mutes all amplifier channels. The amplifier control circuit will measure less then 1 V when the mute function is OFF, and approximately 8 V DC when at full mute. The radio monitors the amp control circuit for faults."


Probably a duplex way to both look for shorts on the amp and send that back to the radio and possibly partially mute the rear speakers for on star, it is pulsed so may actually be like the "lin buss" in the comm section of the manual


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I just tried this on my non-mylink system. It brought up a menu that said:
> 
> Diagnostic Menu
> - Read GM Part Numbers
> ...


I got:
Read GM Part Numbers List
Activate Speakers List
Antenna Signal Strength
Display Test Page
Clear XM Radio Graphics
Clear XM Radio NVM

The GM Part numbers listed parts and versions.
I'm not sure what Activate Speakers List does. It lists four speakers. Perhaps as a way to isolate them for troubleshooting.
Display Test Page just showed a background for several seconds and came back.

Not much to play with.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I was thinking about this. The MyLink unit I have has a V850EX processor from Renesas. This chip is designed to run uClinux. So, how could they install Windows CE on it? But, maybe that's why our systems are not like the Sonic. It's possible they are running a micro-controller Linux OS, not Windows CE.


Yeah, I think we're getting confused here by the different MyLink systems. The ones I've seen in videos that run Windows CE have different controls, different screens and a different method to get to the secret menu. 

I'm sure _some_ MyLinks run Windows CE. I'm not saying ours isn't CE. But I really want to see evidence that ours does run CE before taking that as gospel.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> I got:
> 
> Read GM Part Numbers List
> Activate Speakers List
> ...


Clearly a diagnostic menu, not development mode. These radios most likely run on a Linux variant. Too bad, I was really looking forward to customizing all of the graphics on the interface.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Oh I don't think we should give up yet, probably other button combinations that may bring up the developer mode--another combination to try is: hold power + home + menu, all together, this was for Chevy Colorado, the guys coding the radios got in somehow, the serial data line is used as well as the usb for programing, there is a routine in the system to update the firmware, the code is in there to run the radio--it's just how to get it out, the eeprom data with the vin was the same thing that needs to be done and location and access is all that needs to be discovered, the flash memory is easily read and wrote with a better programmer, some embedded chips need to be put in a test bed but if the flash is appended then it's easy to remove and program


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Another thought, try from standby on radio: 20110827 then power on, this is the developer mode code for the Sonics and may work, or other button combinations may bring it up, some TVs do have hidden service menus brought up various ways so it's possible especially since the Sonics have it


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> Probably a duplex way to both look for shorts on the amp and send that back to the radio and possibly partially mute the rear speakers for on star, it is pulsed so may actually be like the "lin buss" in the comm section of the manual


The schematic in the service manual shows it from radio to amp. 




KENSTV123 said:


> Another thought, try from standby on radio: 20110827 then power on, this is the developer mode code for the Sonics and may work, or other button combinations may bring it up, some TVs do have hidden service menus brought up various ways so it's possible especially since the Sonics have it


When you say standby, what's that? And how would you enter the numbers if they're not on-screen?


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Radio off key on, or radio on key into numeric keypads , I think it's worth a shot either on or off and all the numbers dug up by dhpnet should be tried, I'm not able to try it yet, just got radio and have to deal with the vin thing first, there is a way in trust me !! crap I see we do not have enough numeric buttons for that !!!!!! 

"The schematic in the service manual shows it from radio to amp."
Yeah I'm thinking since they say "pulse width modulation varying duty cycle" they may be actually using the wire as a 2 way buss-one to send back a short exists in the amp to the radio which comms with the gm low speed buss and can possibly set code for amp fault--have not gone far enough with that to look it up in the book yet, and it is possible they also are using it in the other direction to only mute the rears with a onstar call, I don't have a cruze with pioneer amp to check so just a WAG, book does say onstar invokes a program in the radio which makes it go mono adjusts the tone on the audio and takes over the audio circuit to output the onstar audio regardless of source


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'm not sure as there is a need for a true developer mode from the front panel given that the scanner via the GMLAN does a number of things. Even if it's there, it might be triggered by something on the LAN, not the front buttons.

As for the amp control line in question, I'd trace that back on the circuit board and see what it connects to. That will tell you pretty quickly if it's bi-directional or not. Likewise for the speaker outputs. I'm pretty sure that the speaker outputs got to the power amp - which means the power amp is used as a line amp if you have the Pioneer system. Because I can't see them using a switch to switch speaker outputs.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Ryan are you and krakenredbeard in the Mylink unlock project page on wiki the same person ???? the u tube shows him getting into the sonic radio but the posts on here are about his cruze--you still out there Ryan to clear up this confusion ????????


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm not sure as there is a need for a true developer mode from the front panel given that the scanner via the GMLAN does a number of things. Even if it's there, it might be triggered by something on the LAN, not the front buttons.
> 
> If we can get in like the sonics we can change the button files as well as other options, otherwise we are left with the programmers or have to take our chances everything cooperates with all the systems, the problem with the GMLAN is you have to have the dealer terminal software I believe for the files to download, not positive though since GM does offer access to the files thru AC-Delco site, getting in thru the developer mode allows for quick easy changes to all the files, I think GM put a stop to open developers since the sonic info was leaked out--just a WAG


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## RyanAlan00 (Nov 4, 2016)

KENSTV123 said:


> Ryan are you and krakenredbeard in the Mylink unlock project page on wiki the same person ???? the u tube shows him getting into the sonic radio but the posts on here are about his cruze--you still out there Ryan to clear up this confusion ????????


I am not that person, no. mine was installed in Cruze.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Waiting on Anthony for programing of my new radio--firmware is un-reachable by us mortals !!


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> Oh I don't think we should give up yet, probably other button combinations that may bring up the developer mode--another combination to try is: hold power + home + menu, all together, this was for Chevy Colorado, the guys coding the radios got in somehow, the serial data line is used as well as the usb for programing, there is a routine in the system to update the firmware, the code is in there to run the radio--it's just how to get it out, the eeprom data with the vin was the same thing that needs to be done and location and access is all that needs to be discovered, the flash memory is easily read and wrote with a better programmer, some embedded chips need to be put in a test bed but if the flash is appended then it's easy to remove and program


For those that want to try and further the access to firmware the above should get you in or: POWER + HOME + BACK other pass numbers may be needed


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Neither power + home + menu or power + home + back do anything on Cruzes.

According to posts, power + home + menu accesses the diagnostic menu on Colorados, not developer mode. Same thing as power + menu + tone does on the Cruze.


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## theantnest (Jan 23, 2017)

Lots of info here. Just spent a lot of time reading through this!


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Neither power + home + menu or power + home + back do anything on Cruzes.
> 
> According to posts, power + home + menu accesses the diagnostic menu on Colorados, not developer mode. Same thing as power + menu + tone does on the Cruze.


Is Colorado a Mylink 2.0? That's a whole new beast and has been hacked already at least in the Sonics and Sparks.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

Hi All,

I live in Australia and I have 2014 Cruze Equip. I am not sure the US equivalent model name. 

I have been searching for all sorts of possible upgrade ways for my car which has MyLink without Nav and Camera. Thanks to all of you guys and others on this forum. I gathered lots of useful info.

I am not sure if I shared this on another post; I found a system on Ebay Holden JH Series2 Cruze MyLink Navigation Upgrade 2014 2015 2016 | eBay and spoke with the seller. The seller provides %100 money back guarantee if this system doesn't work on my car. Price is 750 AUD.

Then I started to look for a silver box from wreckers. I found one belongs to 2015 CDX model which also have camera. 









Guy at wrecker provided me someone's contact details who he believes that can re-program my car's VIN number into this unit. I called the guy and he said yes he can do it. However, he asked me one important question: *Is the donor car has the same climate control unit or not?* Yes it has. My car has 6 speed manual fan control. This car also has same. Seems like this is an important thing to be careful about.

The project is to upgrade 2014 model silver box w/o Nav and Camera (or silver box in 2014 model car) with silver box from 2015 model car with Nav and Camera.

According to silver box pictures in this website Adding Mylink to older gen5 camaro's - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com the only difference between the silver boxes is the blue port in the middle, I guess it is the sat/nav antenna. 

Let's see. I will share my experience with you guys. I will also try to take pictures of every step including silver boxes, harnesses etc.

My car is at dealership service for another reason. If I can get my car by Friday, I am planning to purchase the silver box from wrecker on Friday and start the installation on Saturday. Let's see how it works.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> Guy at wrecker provided me a someone's contact details who he believes that can re-program my car's VIN number into this unit. I called the guy and he said yes he can do it. However, he asked me one important question: *Is the donor car has the same climate control unit or not?* Yes it has. My car has 6 speed manual fan control. This car also has same. Seems like this is an important thing to be careful about.


Is it the number of fan speed settings thing, or the climate control/regular HVAC thing? Since the HVAC information does display on the MyLink, that is an area where we could have a compatibility issue.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I don't know about the Holden models, but my Cruze is a C67 manual climate control and the 2016 Cruze Limited my MyLink came from was a C68 automatic climate control. The only issue I have had is that A/C and rear defog do not display icons on the screen. i had also tested a silver box that came from a 2015 Cruze with a C67 manual climate control with the same result, so I believe that they just aren't programmed to display those.

@Merc6I think you had MyLink didn't you? Do you remember if you ever saw those icons displayed?

Side note: A friend in Virginia said she has never seen either of those icons displayed on her 2016 Malibu's MyLink screen.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

He was basically talking about manual A/C or auto A/C (which is climate control).


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I don't know about the Holden models, but my Cruze is a C67 manual climate control and the 2016 Cruze Limited my MyLink came from was a C68 automatic climate control. The only issue I have had is that A/C and rear defog do not display icons on the screen. i had also tested a silver box that came from a 2015 Cruze with a C67 manual climate control with the same result, so I believe that they just aren't programmed to display those.
> 
> Merc6, I think you had MyLink didn't you? Do you remember if you ever saw those icons displayed?


Yes. defrost, fan speed, hvac vent selection(Floor, bi level, face, defrost and floor) recirc/vent and ac on/off did show up. Only thing that didn't show on mine was temp since I didn't have ACC. ACC on the LTZ and some Canadian 2LT were 6 speeds 11-12(IIRC) and 8 in the 13 + years since there was no indication on the knobs. ACC speed and temp knobs have no orange indicator as the free spin in both directions like the volume knob does. Those would show the actual digital tems on the MyLink screen when you adjusted it.

I guess it's a small inconvenience for a working MyLink. My radio displayed all that but didn't want to be a radio. When the car was traded in, USB stopped working for me so it was AM/FM/XM only. I harp on avoid 13 model year MyLink and CUE for a reason,LOL.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Lol. I might try to get ahold of a 2015 or 2016 manual climate control panel to test A/C and rear defog with. But it's not high priority for me as I have the orange indicator lights.


My higher priority right now is that I'm pondering buying a used 2015 Gen 10 OnStar box to test for upgradability in our cars.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Lol. I might try to get ahold of a 2015 or 2016 manual climate control panel to test A/C and rear defog with. But it's not high priority for me as I have the orange indicator lights.
> 
> 
> My higher priority right now is that I'm pondering buying a used 2015 Gen 10 OnStar box to test for upgradability in our cars.


Would that need to be programed by someone? That would change your phone number and other stuff right? Is that the box behind the glovebox near where the filter is?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> Would that need to be programed by someone? That would change your phone number and other stuff right? Is that the box behind the glovebox near where the filter is?


All good questions, and ones I don't have answers to.

Well, I do have one answer: yes, it is behind the glove box next to the cabin air filter.

on the various Camaro forums, there are a lot of posts about people upgrading to Gen9 units as plug and play with only having to call OnStar to have the new box associated with their accounts. I doubt the gen10 would be that simple.... there is a tear down of the gen10 online, but you have to subscribe to access it so I don't know if we can change the programmed vin like we can on the MyLinks ourselves.

if it worked though.... would be fun to have wifi .


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

StLouisCPhT said:


> All good questions, and ones I don't have answers to.
> 
> Well, I do have one answer: yes, it is behind the glove box next to the cabin air filter.
> 
> ...


In that case, it's more to it than that. I assume you have to also control it with radio and the 15/16 antenna base also changes for WiFi(reason Visual Garage Shark Fin can't fit it). I guess you can't figure it out if you don't try.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> In that case, it's more to it than that. I assume you have to also control it with radio and the 15/16 antenna base also changes for WiFi(reason Visual Garage Shark Fin can't fit it). I guess you can't figure it out if you don't try.


The thing that keeps me from pulling the trigger though is that I have unlimited data with T-mobile and signal is not an issue for me anywhere I go, so wifi is not necessarily a need. In fact, I'm more likely to downgrade to a unit that lacks Bluetooth instead, since the MyLink handles that and I'm tired of my phone constantly trying to get me to connect to the OnStar box as well.

slightly off-topic, how effective are shark fins vs the factory antenna on the Cruzes?


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

StLouisCPhT said:


> The thing that keeps me from pulling the trigger though is that I have unlimited data with T-mobile and signal is not an issue for me anywhere I go, so wifi is not necessarily a need. In fact, I'm more likely to downgrade to a unit that lacks Bluetooth instead, since the MyLink hands that and I'm tired of my phone constantly trying to get me to connect to the OnStar box as well.



My mom has it in her 16 Acadia but I never really tried to hook it up. The other person I know who has WiFi is in a 15 Terrain. I have WiFi off when I am out and BT only on when I am in the car. iPhone battery life sucks when you leave either on for extended periods of time.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> My mom has it in her 16 Acadia but I never really tried to hook it up. The other person I know who has WiFi is in a 15 Terrain. I have WiFi off when I am out and BT only on when I am in the car. iPhone battery life sucks when you leave either on for extended periods of time.


Interesting. My iPhone SE and iPad Air 2 have wifi and bt on 24/7 without any major effect on battery life. Come to think of it, my launch day iPhone 6 also showed the same minimal effect. It's Android phones that I have never found to like having wifi or bt on for extended periods.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> if it worked though.... would be fun to have wifi .


An internet connected device the way GM handles updates? No thanks.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

MyLink icons for 2013 climate control:


Fan speed
A/C On/off (Snowflake icon with the words on/off)
Temperature setting
Mode (Direct, floor, defrost, etc.)
Air circulation (Fresh, recirculate, auto)

There is no indication for the rear window defrost.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> MyLink icons for 2013 climate control:
> 
> 
> Fan speed
> ...


That's automatic climate control isn't it? Still trying to determine what the icons are for manual climate control. Might have to take a trip to some chevy dealers today to see what they have in stock.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That's automatic climate control isn't it?


Correct. I'd think that the manual would either have a blue/red settings instead of the temperature, or eliminate that spot altogether and reposition the others to fill in the spot.

However, wasn't there a section of the flash memory that stored the RPO codes? Maybe this is where that's stored.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Correct. I'd think that the manual would either have a blue/red settings instead of the temperature, or eliminate that spot altogether and reposition the others to fill in the spot.
> 
> However, wasn't there a section of the flash memory that stored the RPO codes? Maybe this is where that's stored.


No. RPO codes aren't stored in the radio. I confirmed with techs at 2 different Chevrolet dealers that the codes are only used to setup their computers for recalibrating and that they don't even enter the codes for MyLink systems. This matchs up with the directions in the software update documentation posted which state that the RPO codes for MyLink radios with or without navigation do not need to be entered.

Edit: Sorry about the blurriness of the picture, but I had to sacrifice focus for speed. At the bottom, you'll see that the AC indicator is lit, but that I only have 3 options in my climate control bar on my screen.


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## Merc6 (Jun 8, 2013)

ChevyGuy said:


> Correct. I'd think that the manual would either have a blue/red settings instead of the temperature, or eliminate that spot altogether and reposition the others to fill in the spot.
> 
> However, wasn't there a section of the flash memory that stored the RPO codes? Maybe this is where that's stored.


No temps on the manual Screen as the dials have indicators unlike ACC.



StLouisCPhT said:


> No. RPO codes aren't stored in the radio. I confirmed with techs at 2 different Chevrolet dealers that the codes are only used to setup their computers for recalibrating and that they don't even enter the codes for MyLink systems. This matchs up with the directions in the software update documentation posted which state that the RPO codes for MyLink radios with or without navigation do not need to be entered.
> 
> Edit: Sorry about the blurriness of the picture, but I had to sacrifice focus for speed. At the bottom, you'll see that the AC indicator is lit, but that I only have 3 options in my climate control bar on my screen.
> 
> ...


4th one to far right IIRC would be A/C on or off.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> 4th one to far right IIRC would be A/C on or off.


Okay, I found a used 2014 manual climate control panel on eBay cheap and ordered it. When it arrives, I'll test it and let you know what the results are.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Okay, I found a used 2014 manual climate control panel on eBay cheap and ordered it. When it arrives, I'll test it and let you know what the results are.


That could be interesting. The 2013 manual indicates there's a control head and a control unit. Looking at GMPartsDirect, i can't find the control unit, so I'm not sure if they're different between the manual system and the automatic. But somehow it needs to know which one it is.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> UFF&UP9 23184127
> 
> UFF (don't know - it's not listed in the service manual, and I have never seen one on ebay).


I just checked my unit details today and found that it is UFF & UP9 23206561

It is touch screen MyLink without Nav.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> That could be interesting. The 2013 manual indicates there's a control head and a control unit. Looking at GMPartsDirect, i can't find the control unit, so I'm not sure if they're different between the manual system and the automatic. But somehow it needs to know which one it is.


Control unit plugs in behind the control head. You probably have seen the listing but didn't realize it because of the way it is listed. On tonkinonlineparts, they are listed the same, but the unit is the one without a picture to show it's location or appearance. I'll try swapping the unit first, then depending on how that goes, the head.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> I just checked my unit details today and found that it is UFF & UP9 23206561
> 
> It is touch screen MyLink without Nav.


Can you post pictures of the front and back of your unit?


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

Does anyone have a 2014 that attempted this MyLink upgrade or removed this radio (below)? Im curious to see if mine already has the correct harness installed. 
I have this radio currently.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Merc6 said:


> In that case, it's more to it than that. I assume you have to also control it with radio and the 15/16 antenna base also changes for WiFi(reason Visual Garage Shark Fin can't fit it). I guess you can't figure it out if you don't try.


I read through the manuals last night for the wifi enabled OnStar boxes, and while the information can be displayed on your radio, you have to contact OnStar to change settings.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

BlakeCary said:


> Does anyone have a 2014 that attempted this MyLink upgrade or removed this radio (below)? Im curious to see if mine already has the correct harness installed.
> I have this radio currently.
> View attachment 217738


That's the "base" or "green screen" radio. You'll need a harness mod to install a MyLink (with or without Nav). The way the radio communicates to the screen and the button panel is different for the base radio. That's why the different harness.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> That's the "base" or "green screen" radio. You'll need a harness mod to install a MyLink (with or without Nav). The way the radio communicates to the screen and the button panel is different for the base radio. That's why the different harness.


No chance Chevrolet might have used a universal harness in their vehicles starting in 2013? I can only find one harness listed on part sheets.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Can you post pictures of the front and back of your unit?


I don't have front picture. Here is the back of it


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

BlakeCary said:


> Does anyone have a 2014 that attempted this MyLink upgrade or removed this radio (below)? Im curious to see if mine already has the correct harness installed.
> I have this radio currently.
> View attachment 217738


just check the picture I posted above today. Keep in mine that this is for touch screen MyLink without Nav.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

So the UFF models lack satellite radio then.


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

wrx5 said:


> just check the picture I posted above today. Keep in mine that this is for touch screen MyLink without Nav.


Is that a factory MyLink installed? My question was, for my radio in my car (2014 lt1) do I have those wires in mine already so I would only have to plug in new equipment and go? 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> No chance Chevrolet might have used a universal harness in their vehicles starting in 2013?


Given the pinout differences? No way. 

The connectors fit, and some of the pinouts are the same. The problem: In the base radio, the silver box talks to the text-based screen. The screen also acts as a controller for the buttons. In the MyLink, the radio connects to the buttons directly. There's a dedicated cable for the video to the screen, but there's still connections to bring the touch-screen data back to the silver box. 

On top of that, different radios handle the aux/USB input differently. Some directly connect to the silver box, others to a external box (PDM?)

I would have thought they'd have a universal body harness and just had a different stub depending on the radio - but that's not how they did it. The body harness is built to fix the options.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Not much experience with the Cruze, (yet), but what are the thoughts on upgrading an unmolested 2014 MyLink/Touch Scree/Reverse Cam/No Nav, (with Bluetooth streaming no less!), with a Mylink/Nav radio? I am guessing that the wiring harness for the screen would already be there and, of course, it would need a GPS antenna and maybe the control panel with the NAV button but how much different can it be?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Going from a MyLink to MyLink with Nav, shouldn't be too hard. You need a signal splitter and cabling for the GPS. And yes, a different button panel. You would have to get the VIN updated to work with your car. But the question is if it's worth it. I've heard the maps updates are not cheap and not all that great.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> Going from a MyLink to MyLink with Nav, shouldn't be too hard. You need a signal splitter and cabling for the GPS. And yes, a different button panel. You would have to get the VIN updated to work with your car. But the question is if it's worth it. I've heard the maps updates are not cheap and not all that great.


Spot on. Map updates are $600 AUD ????

I decided to get reverse camera only. I am not sure if it will work or not but I will get a chrome trunk lid with camera (gm95407980) and try.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

BlakeCary said:


> Is that a factory MyLink installed? My question was, for my radio in my car (2014 lt1) do I have those wires in mine already so I would only have to plug in new equipment and go?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk


Yes, mine is factory fitted original one. 

Yours is older model. It won't have the required harness. You will have buy it.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> Going from a MyLink to MyLink with Nav, shouldn't be too hard. You need a signal splitter and cabling for the GPS. And yes, a different button panel. You would have to get the VIN updated to work with your car. But the question is if it's worth it. I've heard the maps updates are not cheap and not all that great.


Signal Splitter?


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

xxx


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

One question I'd have is how hard it would be to get map updates. It seem to me that the GM "mother ship" would say "that car doesn't have Nav!"


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> Signal Splitter?


Yes. The Cruze already has a GPS system feeding the OnStar (so it knows where to send the ambulance when you crash). So a signal splitter make a copy of that signal for the radio.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

xxx


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

xxx


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> what I have found is these radios are locked down complete with RSA encryption on every file, even the map update has an encryption key embedded in it, GM did not want anybody in there, this also is apparently the case with other sensitive modules in the car BCM, IP cluster etc. these cars are rolling computers !


For the Nav, that makes sense. They're not going to make it easy to close the file for one unit to be usable for others. I'm disappointed to hear that it's spread further than that.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> That could be interesting. The 2013 manual indicates there's a control head and a control unit. Looking at GMPartsDirect, i can't find the control unit, so I'm not sure if they're different between the manual system and the automatic. But somehow it needs to know which one it is.


No change with the new head and unit. I also reattached my original radio system to refresh my memory. Here is what happens with my factory radio:

A/C button pressed: screen says A/C on or A/C off, no icon displayed 

Rear Defog/Defrost pressed: no icon or message displayed

Conclusion: Having only 3 climate control icons displayed on my MyLink screen indicates the system is performing exactly as designed with my Cruze's factory programming.

Final conclusion: The only reprogramming required is to reset the linked VIN so the new silverbox works with your vehicle. This can be done ourselves without the need for expensive 3rd party reprogramming. (A possible exception could be if using a radio that does not come from a Cruze, someone else will need to test that however.)


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Conclusion: Having only 3 climate control icons displayed on my MyLink screen indicates the system is performing exactly as designed with my Cruze's factory programming.


So you're saying the system changes between the displays for auto and manual? That is, you'll get the 5 item display if you have the climate control head?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> So you're saying the system changes between the displays for auto and manual? That is, you'll get the 5 item display if you have the climate control head?


We already discussed that manual and automatic climate controls work and display differently, for example the way they handle setting and displaying cabin temperature.

No, you'll only get what your vehicle originally had. I tried both a climate control control panel and climate control unit from a C67 2014 Cruze and got the same results as I did with the original C67 parts in my 2011. And confirmed that the exact same thing also happens when I use the original 4" green screen and non MyLink radio. 

I will point out that one of the MyLink silver boxes that I have tested since performing the original upgrade last year was from a C68 automatic climate control Cruze. Even with that one installed, I only got 3 icons.


TLDR - what you had is what you get.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> No, you'll only get what your vehicle originally had.


Interesting. I wonder where that information is held? I'd have expected it to to either be programmed as part of the radio, or that the unit would adapt depending on the data stream.

This makes it sound like it's somehow coming from the BCM.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Interesting. I wonder where that information is held? I'd have expected it to to either be programmed as part of the radio, or that the unit would adapt depending on the data stream.
> 
> This makes it sound like it's somehow coming from the BCM.


Aside from displaying icons on the screen, our radios don't have anything to do with the climate control. I totally disconnected my control unit and control panel from the wiring harnesses, placed both in the back seat, then turned on my Cruze. Everything still attached to wiring harnesses functioned, including the radio and touchscreen. I made it a quick test since the last known temperature was around 40 degrees F.

It appears that in the Chevrolet Cruze, the infotainment/telematics systems are self-contained instead of integrated with the rest of the vehicle. When you think about it, even OnStar actually has no real influence on a Cruze as it can be disabled with the removal of it's fuse and the vehicles will still start and run. Or even replaced with a BlueStar module, if you really want it out of the system.


Why did switching the control unit have no effect on the data being reported to the screen? I have a theory. The hvac control unit has four connection ports on it, but my manual hvac 2011 Cruze only uses 2 of them. Can someone with an automatic system (any year) take a picture of their unit and post it so we can see if the other 2 ports are used? It's the black rectangle hiding behind the control panel.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Why did switching the control unit have no effect on the data being reported to the screen? I have a theory.


I have one too - perhaps the modules are just I/O controllers. The brains are somewhere else - perhaps in the ECM, since it has underhood sensors and controls for A/C.




StLouisCPhT said:


> The hvac control unit has four connection ports on it, but my manual hvac 2011 Cruze only uses 2 of them. Can someone with an automatic system (any year) take a picture of their unit and post it so we can see if the other 2 ports are used? It's the black rectangle hiding behind the control panel.


My 2013 shop manual lists 3 connectors. And they're all used for both manual and automatic. (Although there are more wires for the auto.)

However, the Verano (Buick's verson of the Cruze) has dual zone A/C. So perhaps the extra connectors are for that.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I have one too - perhaps the modules are just I/O controllers. The brains are somewhere else - perhaps in the ECM, since it has underhood sensors and controls for A/C.


It could be.



ChevyGuy said:


> My 2013 shop manual lists 3 connectors. And they're all used for both manual and automatic. (Although there are more wires for the auto.)
> 
> However, the Verano (Buick's verson of the Cruze) has dual zone A/C. So perhaps the extra connectors are for that.


My neighbor has a Verano... I dont think I've ever looked at it and thought "gee, that reminds me of my Cruze".

All I know is that I only have 2 connectors in use and I feel that has something to do with the different number of icons being displayed. However, I also feel this subject is no longer related to this thread since the infotainment systems are not tied to the hvac system. Maybe it could have its own thread?


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

Sorry to bombard your brainstorming thread again. So it seems like you guys have the PNP version of this upgrade all figured out, and now you are just figuring out a full DIY. Correct? For the guy who just wants to do this PNP is this the process? 
What I currently have - 2014 LT1, Blue/Green Screen, Bluetooth, OnStar, USB/3.5 in center console, Hands Free Calling, SiriusXm, Steering Wheel Controls, CD. Not sure if this matters but also TPS and MyChevy App. What I want is to Add Factory Touchscreen and add rear camera while retaining ALL my current functions. 
What I will need:
Screen, Silver Box, Controls, Bezel, Rear Cam from 2014 Cruze (source: Ebay)
Wire Harness, This is a PNP correct? (source?)
After installing all the components a simple trip to dealer to reprogram unit with YOUR VIN you should be Rockin Out.
Sorry if this is repetitive for you but this threads info is all over the map and its hard to put all the info together in one PNP version.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

There is no PNP version of this upgrade. This thread, specifically the 1st post, is the full DIY. I have been intending to make a new thread with streamlined directions, but that is on hold until a less expensive harness kit is discovered.

But here is a quick and dirty version:

1) Buy a Mylink silver box. The following part numbers have been tested: 23184129 (2014 model year), 23476256 (2015 model year), and 23284452 (2016 model year & is recommended). If you want/need backup camera capability, ask the seller to verify it came from a Cruze with option UVC. All they have to do is run a VIN check (or look in the glove box) for the option code. If they refuse to do so or state that it doesn't have that option, find a different seller or box.

Tip: The backup camera is a standard feature on the LTZ model.

2) Buy a center console control panel from a 2013-2015 Cruze or 2016 Cruze Limited. Make certain it has a button with a house on it above the cd player slot. Also buy a 7" Mylink touchscreen and plastic display bezel. This can come from practically any GM vehicle and a part number is 22851302.

Tip: Shop smart and you would get all 4 parts for between $75 & $100 total, shipping included.

3) Reprogram the VIN in the silverbox yourself. It's fairly simple to do and all it takes is about an hour and $10 for an usb EEPROM programmer and clip. If you don't feel comfortable taking apart the radio, ask a younger family member (preferably between 3 and 5 years old) to do it for you. You might have to bribe them to put it all back together when done however. 

Tip: A dealer most likely will not change the VIN as this isn't an offical GM upgrade. And if they agree to do it, most likely will charge you an arm and a leg for the effort. 

Tip 2: Do not send in the radio to any one advertising expensive reprogramming services. Cruze radios are self contained systems with minimal interaction with the rest of the vehicle and do not need anything changed besides the VIN.

4) Call Anthony at MVI and order the harness kit. This will cost you $250. Tell them you need a Chevy Cruze Mylink Upgrade harness with Twimax cable.

5) Follow the current directions in the 1st post of this thread to remove the old equipment and install the harness and new equipment.

That's it for the Mylink upgrade.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That's it.


Not quite. There's the small matter of the backup camera. I think we'll find he doesn't have the right body harness. And since I don't think replacing a body harness is all that practical, something would have to be hacked together to get the power signal to the camera and the video signal back to the head unit.

While there's no programming for the camera module, I couldn't guarantee that some kind of BCM programming isn't required to get it to function.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Not quite. There's the small matter of the backup camera. I think we'll find he doesn't have the right body harness. And since I don't think replacing a body harness is all that practical, something would have to be hacked together to get the power signal to the camera and the video signal back to the head unit.
> 
> While there's no programming for the camera module, I couldn't guarantee that some kind of BCM programming isn't required to get it to function.


MVI's harness has a yellow RCA connector for 3rd party backup cameras. And I'm certain that you could locate in your service manual the wires they would need to splice that type camera into for it to activate.

I don't have one installed yet, waiting for it to get a lot warmer first. But here is a picture of my systems' current behavior when placed into reverse.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Occams_Razor said:


> Not much experience with the Cruze, (yet), but what are the thoughts on upgrading an unmolested 2014 MyLink/Touch Scree/Reverse Cam/No Nav, (with Bluetooth streaming no less!), with a Mylink/Nav radio? I am guessing that the wiring harness for the screen would already be there and, of course, it would need a GPS antenna and maybe the control panel with the NAV button but how much different can it be?


Just when things seem to get simpler they get more complicated.

Looking up the part numbers for the Radio/Navigation unit for a 2014 I find that it is listed as 23121124.

Since many have said that the 2015 unit has subtle, (but nice), features I looked up the number for that and found that it is listed as originally 23447567 that has subsequently been replaced with 23375146.

Hence my hesitation. Will the 2015 radio/navigation definitely work in a 2014? :question:


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> Not quite. There's the small matter of the backup camera. I think we'll find he doesn't have the right body harness. And since I don't think replacing a body harness is all that practical, something would have to be hacked together to get the power signal to the camera and the video signal back to the head unit.
> 
> While there's no programming for the camera module, I couldn't guarantee that some kind of BCM programming isn't required to get it to function.


I did the button combination trick (power + menu + info/tone) and had access to software list. I saw that head unit has "Camera Software Cal - 95xxxxxx" (I forgot the resdt of the numbers). The point is my car doesn't have camera installed. Only MyLink (v2014) touch screen without sat/nav. I shared the full details and picture of it I think on page 25 or 26 of this post.

Would this mean camera will work if I purchase and install it?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> Would this mean camera will work if I purchase and install it?


I'm not sure what causes the unit to switch to the camera. Apparently, it's not the presence of a video signal. What it takes to fix that, I'm not sure. It may take a BCM re-program.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

xxx


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

[xxx


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm not sure what causes the unit to switch to the camera. Apparently, it's not the presence of a video signal. What it takes to fix that, I'm not sure. It may take a BCM re-program.


I have an aftermarket camera installed and it is triggered by the reverse lights if that helps any. :icon_scratch:


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm not sure what causes the unit to switch to the camera. Apparently, it's not the presence of a video signal. What it takes to fix that, I'm not sure. It may take a BCM re-program.


It would take a radio reprogram and the appropriate wiring harness actually. One of the Mylink radios that I have tested came from a 2015 Cruze that did not have the UVC option. When I was in reverse, it would not switch over and remained on the selected audio source's screen. Without the camera programming enabled, it appears the silver box ignores the reverse signal from the BCM.



Blasirl said:


> I have an aftermarket camera installed and it is triggered by the reverse lights if that helps any. :icon_scratch:


That is how the aftermarket camera I purchased says for it to be wired up. I just don't know which wire is the one needed.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> That is how the aftermarket camera I purchased says for it to be wired up. I just don't know which wire is the one needed.


I'm not in front of my book at the moment. I'm pretty sure each backup bulb has it's own wire to the BCM. The camera also has it's own line to the BCM. Mine stays powered up a few seconds after shifting out of reverse.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm not in front of my book at the moment. I'm pretty sure each backup bulb has it's own wire to the BCM.


The bulbs should be easy to figure out. But (on my camera anyways) the video cable has another wire you need to attach to the reverse trigger wire. That is the one I'm not sure of.



ChevyGuy said:


> Mine stays powered up a few seconds after shifting out of reverse.


According to the owner manuals I have looked at, the camera stays active for 10 seconds or until you perform an action.



> An image appears on the infotainment screen when the vehicle is shifted into R (Reverse). The infotainment screen goes to the previous screen after approximately 10seconds once the vehicle is shifted out of R (Reverse).
> To return to the previous screen sooner, do one of the following: . Press a hard key on the infotainment system. . Shift into P (Park).


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> The bulbs should be easy to figure out. But (on my camera anyways) you need to attach another wire to the reverse trigger at the radio. That is the one I'm not sure of.


If it's a signal from the camera to the radio, I'd just tape it off. It's probably for radios that need a signal to know the camera is active.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> If it's a signal from the camera to the radio, I'd just tape it off. It's probably for radios that need a signal to know the camera is active.


We are in the 50s today and tomorrow. I'll give it a shot and let you know what happens.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

How about this one? 95407980 Rear Decklid Trunk Trim Molding Chrome w/ Camera 2011-15 Chevy Cruze | eBay

It has complete wiring in its own structure. There is only one socket to connect to the one coming from radio. I checked the one I have, it has the same socket. That's why I was thinking it might work straight away as my car's radio already has the "camera software cal".

I might be wrong.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> How about this one? 95407980 Rear Decklid Trunk Trim Molding Chrome w/ Camera 2011-15 Chevy Cruze | eBay


Take a look at your car and see how many pins are in the connector. IIRC, the connector for the camera cars is larger to hold more pins. That is, the plugs for the camera and non-camera cars are different.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> Take a look at your car and see how many pins are in the connector. IIRC, the connector for the camera cars is larger to hold more pins. That is, the plugs for the camera and non-camera cars are different.


I asked seller to send me a picture of the connector. If he does, I will be able to compare with my one. 

Or, if anybody has that picture already, could you please post it?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I will point out one thing: if your cruze did NOT come with a rearview camera preinstalled, you will need to drill a new hole in the trunk to feed aftermarket wiring harnesses through. It most likely will not have any holes pre-drilled aside from the ones used to mount the chrome license plate light trim or the one already used for the plate lights and trunk release button.









*With that said, I would respectfully request that users interested in adding a rearview camera to their cruze or wanting to upgrade from their factory installed Mylink radio to Mylink with Navigation please make a new thread so that we can bring this one back to the original DIY of adding a complete Mylink system to the 2011-2012 Cruzes.*


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> With that said, I would respectfully ask that users interested in adding a rearview camera to their cruze please make a new thread so that we can bring this one back to the original DIY of adding the Mylink system to the 2011-2012 Cruzes.


I get your point about making this thread dedicated to adding the MyLink system to non-MyLink Cruzes. There are questions here about upgrading MyLink systems those without sat/nav and camera to one with sat/nav and camera. We might need to think about separating that as well.

I will start a new thread about the camera.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

StLouisCPhT said:


> It would take a radio reprogram and the appropriate wiring harness actually. One of the Mylink radios that I have tested came from a 2015 Cruze that did not have the UVC option. When I was in reverse, it would not switch over and remained on the selected audio source's screen. Without the camera programming enabled, it appears the silver box ignores the reverse signal from the BCM.
> 
> 
> 
> That is how the aftermarket camera I purchased says for it to be wired up. I just don't know which wire is the one needed.


I came right off of the drivers side reverse. As far as the BCM, I am pretty sure that the trigger uses very little current, so it shouldn't cause any issues. Because I am stuck on my upgrade to my rear-view mirror 
(that includes a video screen) I cannot tell you if it is working though. (I have the green screen radio)

I will try and find my notes for the install as I do not have the time to rip my trunk apart yet. If and when, I'll list the color codes for that harness.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

xxx


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

OK-done


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I went and tested the rca jack that is part of MVI's wiring harness the other night with the Mylink radio installed in my 2011 Cruze. The result is posted over on wrx5's thread about factory camera vs aftermarket.

Link


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I went and tested the rca jack that is part of MVI's wiring harness the other night with the Mylink radio installed in my 2011 Cruze. The result is posted over on wrx5's thread about factory camera vs aftermarket.
> 
> Link


I have a dumb question: Is the outside of an RCA plug the negative and the inside the positive?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

I just ran across this and thought I would add it here as I do not remember seeing it in the thread.


Special Programming Instructions for Service Replacement Radios

PS - What happened to the answer to my last question? I remember reading it, but it seems to have disappeared? (the answer was something like - that is correct)


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I posted the answer to your question on wrx's thread about cameras, not here.

The sandyblog article you reference is for dealership service replacements only and not relevant to the thread.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> The sandyblog article you reference is for dealership service replacements only and not relevant to the thread.


True, but good information none the less. Now we have some additional part numbers. It may also be a dealer-supported method to get backup guidelines on a 2014 Cruze already equipped with MyLink.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> StLouisCPhT said:
> 
> 
> > The sandyblog article you reference is for dealership service replacements only and not relevant to the thread.
> ...


I have been looking for those numbers since November and have not encountered them outside of dealership stock.

As long as your vehicle originally had mylink, dealerships should not have any trouble with an owner self installing a newer unit. It's only the 2011 & 2012 owners that will not be supported.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I posted the answer to your question on wrx's thread about cameras, not here.
> 
> The sandyblog article you reference is for dealership service replacements only and not relevant to the thread.


Thanks again for straightening me out and thanks again for the answer. 

I posted the article above as I thought it was somewhat related and did not want to start a new thread for it.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> To upgrade the firmware, you do that through the radio user interface. Here is a video that explains how to update the firmware. This also includes links to a newer version (24.5)
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJuks-l4Qq4


Couldn't access the video. Do you have updated link?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> Couldn't access the video. Do you have updated link?


No, it wasn't my video. It was from a Russian site. And, if you read the other posts in this thread, you will see that we found out that it is not possible to do this process on our radios. That was only for the Radios like they use in the Sonic.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I finally got around to testing my wiring harness and all my components today. Worked perfectly. I still need to add the voice recognition, Aux input and rear camera wiring. I will probably do that in the next couple weeks. I will create a thread with info about how I made the harness once it is completed. 









I only tested it and then I put the original radio back in until I get everything completed.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Excellent news! Glad to see you still working on it.

I'm technically on vacation for a couple weeks right now (job hunting), so the mylink project is on the back burner for a while. But I have almost completed my side project of switching my aux jack wiring around and going pdim free.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> I drew it up and added the connector end views. For the camera, I used the lid harness because I am planning to purchase the whole chrome bar.
> 
> View attachment 212890


What does "camera drain wire" means? where it gets connected to?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> What does "camera drain wire" means? where it gets connected to?


It's the shield (braided wire or foil that surrounds the signal wire(s)). In the factory install, the "return"/"common" is a separate wire and the shield goes around them both. The shield is only connected at one end. In this case, the radio.

In most consumer applications, the "common" and shield is one in the same.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

I updated my wiring drawing, so I deleted the original attachment 212890. Here is the updated drawing. 









Edit: changed again to show camera connector.

Edit again: I got my information from the service manual for the 2014 North America Cruze. I suggest that you verify all of the information before you make any modifications to your car.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> I updated my wiring drawing, so I deleted the original attachment 212890. Here is the updated drawing. The camera shows the rear lid harness, not the actual camera because I plan to tap into the rear lid harness.
> 
> View attachment 221778


Please correct me if I wrong:

Let's say I have the OEM trunk lid with camera. Let's just focus on camera only. For camera to work: I need to run a cable from its pin 3 to pin 5 on X2 connector as well as from its pin 8 to pin 15 on X2 connector. 

Is this correct?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> What does "camera drain wire" means? where it gets connected to?



Exactly what ChevyGuy said. It is a bare wire used in cables that are shielded by foil. It is in direct contact with the shield. This improves the shield and makes it easier to terminate the shield. It's hard to crimp a connector to piece of foil. 

This can also be used to create a "balanced" circuit. Instead of just using 2 wires, one wire for positive and one for ground, a balanced cable has 3 wires, one positive signal, one negative signal and one ground. Balanced circuits help eliminate noise in the signal.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> Please correct me if I wrong:
> 
> Let's say I have the OEM trunk lid with camera. Let's just focus on camera only. For camera to work: I need to run a cable from its pin 3 to pin 5 on X2 connector as well as from its pin 8 to pin 15 on X2 connector.
> 
> Is this correct?


Here is the wiring for the connector on the camera itself. 
Pin 1 - Camera Signal #2+
Pin 2 - Camera Shield Extension
Pin 3- Backup Lamp Supply Voltage
Pin 4- Camera Signal #2
Pin 5- Ground
Pin 6- Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage

You need all 6 of these for the camera. Only pins 1 and 4 go directly to the radio, with pin 2 connected to the shield around those wires. 

Pin 1 on the camera connector goes to Pin 5 on the radio X2 connector
Pin 4 on the camera connector goes to Pin 15 on the radio X2 connector. 
Pin 2 on the camera is connected to the shield drain wire that surrounds the other two wires. 

I will update the wiring drawing to show the actual camera connector so that others don't get confused.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> Here is the wiring for the connector on the camera itself.
> Pin 1 - Camera Signal #2+
> Pin 2 - Camera Shield Extension
> Pin 3- Backup Lamp Supply Voltage
> ...


I guess Pin 3- Backup Lamp Supply Voltage can be provided from reverse light. What about Pin 6- Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage? What is this?


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> Here is the wiring for the connector on the camera itself.
> Pin 1 - Camera Signal #2+
> Pin 2 - Camera Shield Extension
> Pin 3- Backup Lamp Supply Voltage
> ...


Do you mean there are 2 plugs on trunk chrome lid if it has camera? I checked the chrome trunk lid on my car and it has only 1 plug.

according to this item on eBay, there is only one 10-way plug. (may be 6 of them is for camera)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/95407980...256421?hash=item4d47c024a5:g:AqAAAOSwtnpXkpLc


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> What about Pin 6- Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage? What is this?


I'll have to look up where to tap that into. But I'd think most any source of power that's on when the engine is running and off when the car is "asleep" will do just fine.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> Do you mean there are 2 plugs on trunk chrome lid if it has camera? I checked the chrome trunk lid on my car and it has only 1 plug.


The OEM cable for the camera goes through several connectors before it reaches the radio. The one I showed originally was one further up the path inside the trunk (the rear lid harness). I just replaced the image in the post above. It now shows the actual camera connector where it plugs into license lamp harness.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> What about Pin 6- Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage? What is this?


Positive voltage that is switched on when you turn the car on.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> according to this item on eBay, there is only one 10-way plug. (may be 6 of them is for camera)


The connector you see in that image is where the license lamp harness connects to the rear lid harness. The license lamp harness connects to the camera inside the chrome bar.

PLEASE NOTE: The connectors I show in my drawing are from the service manual for the 2014 North American Cruze. I don't know if the Holden Cruze has the exact same wiring. I suggest you verify before you make any modifications.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> The OEM cable for the camera goes through several connectors before it reaches the radio. The one I showed originally was one further up the path inside the trunk (the rear lid harness). I just replaced the image in the post above. It now shows the actual camera connector where it plugs into license lamp harness.


You right. Camera harness is separate and gets connected to the trunk lid harness with in the chrome bar.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> The connector you see in that image is where the license lamp harness connects to the rear lid harness. The license lamp harness connects to the camera inside the chrome bar.
> 
> PLEASE NOTE: The connectors I show in my drawing are from the service manual for the 2014 North American Cruze. I don't know if the Holden Cruze has the exact same wiring. I suggest you verify before you make any modifications.


By any chance, do you have the pin diagram for 10-way (pins) trunk lid harness plug? Also same thing for non-camera model? I think it is 6 pin.

My aim is to connect the existing wires to the right pins on the new harness and find a solution for those 6 pins for camera.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> By any chance, do you have the pin diagram for 10-way (pins) trunk lid harness plug? Also same thing for non-camera model? I think it is 6 pin.
> 
> My aim is to connect the existing wires to the right pins on the new harness and find a solution for those 6 pins for camera.


According to the 2014 service manual, this is connector X915 License Lamp Harness to Rear Compartment Lid Harness

Without UVC (rear camera)
1- Ground
2- Rear License Lamp Control
3- Ground
4- Rear Closure Handle Switch Open Signal

With UVC
1- Ground
2- Ground
3- Camera Signal #2 +
4- Camera Drain Wire
5- Backup Lamp Supply Voltage
6- Rear License Lamp Supply Voltage
7- Rear Closure Handle Switch Open Signal
8- Camera Signal #2
9- Ground
10- Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> According to the 2014 service manual, this is connector X915 License Lamp Harness to Rear Compartment Lid Harness
> 
> Without UVC (rear camera)
> 1- Ground
> ...


Aren't you the best


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> For anyone that would prefer to change their vin on their own. I located the eeprom that contains the VIN information today. They went to a lot of trouble to hide it, putting it on the underside of the bottom PCB. Just re-flashed mine about 15-20 minutes ago. Still need to get a harness to hook it all up and enjoy the system.
> 
> View attachment 211730
> 
> ...


I have the full setup. CH341A reader and test clip. I am able to read other chip on the board but cannot read this specific chip. Is that because I haven't done the pin 7 trick yet.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

wrx5 said:


> I have the full setup. CH341A reader and test clip. I am able to read other chip on the board but cannot read this specific chip. Is that because I haven't done the pin 7 trick yet.


I followed *StLouisCPhT's* instructions more carefully and managed to read the chip. However, this is all I have as result


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

I think I found the issue. The chip is different.









CH341A software doesn't have 128K option under ST brand category. Strange thing is that I get different reading result for every single read. Once I managed to see the VIN partially. 

I guess getting there slowly slowly... Looking for alternative software.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I know I had some trouble reading my 2013. It gave me gibberish the first time. But I re-clamped the chip and it was fine after that. Since I was just reading, I didn't remove the resistor.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> I think I found the issue. The chip is different.
> 
> View attachment 222266
> 
> ...


I used the software in the description of this video. Worked perfectly. You have to select the correct chip though. 

Type= 24 EEPROM
Manu = ISSI
Name = IS24C128 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0ChYNwunUE


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> I followed *StLouisCPhT's* instructions more carefully and managed to read the chip. However, this is all I have as result
> 
> View attachment 222258


That looks like the same gibberish I have on my chip. Scroll down and you will see the VIN number among some other gibberish. Don't worry about the gibberish, just change the VIN. The VIN is missing the first number, so only include the same.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> I think I found the issue. The chip is different.
> 
> View attachment 222266
> 
> ...


You are getting confused on your terminology.

The chip is 16K not 128K (actually both, but just agree with me and say 16K. Easier than explaining). If the ISSI setting doesn't work, try other brands that have 128 in the chip type.

Tip: In the off site article I gave credit to for providing me the chip location, one person said they sometimes needed to use a chip type with 64 in the number to read it properly.

Also, make sure that you have the red wire on pin 1. And pay close attention when applying the clip, they are really really finicky and even if you think you got it on perfectly, there is still a 99% chance it's not. I speak from lots and lots of experience.

Also, if I remember correctly you were going to order the black ch341a correct? Make sure use use to the drivers and software linked in this video if you did.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5NYe21nFSDI

There are newer versions of the ch341a software but they switched to having to pay for it instead of freeware.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

After 3-4 hours I managed to tackle it. I had to use Common group and had to select 24C128. To be honest I did use this setting so many times while I was trying but I guess problem was placing the test clip. 

Interesting thing:

I forgot to desolder the pin 7 and applied the change. Seems like successfully written into the chip. No matter how many times I read the chip now, It gives me the updated VIN. 

Any comment?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Also, make sure that you have the red wire on pin 1.


The red wire needs to go to pin 1 on the chip, as well as in the hole closest to the lever on the programmer. If that's not what your software is showing, then it may not be the right software.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> After 3-4 hours I managed to tackle it. I had to use Common group and had to select 24C128. To be honest I did use this setting so many times while I was trying but I guess problem was placing the test clip.
> 
> Interesting thing:
> 
> ...


Yeah, close the software completely, restart it and try reading it again. I find it hard to believe it successfully wrote to the chip without either desoldering pin 7 or removing the R606 resistor between 7 & 8.

Unless for whatever reason Holden doesn't lock the VIN chip... which in theory could mean that you might have been able to just install the radio directly and it might have self adjusted to the new VIN.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> I followed *StLouisCPhT's* instructions more carefully and managed to read the chip. However, this is all I have as result
> 
> View attachment 222258


Uhhhhh, this could be an issue. That "garbage" in the beginning isn't identical, but close enough to what I got to look correct. And you should be seeing the VIN in that screen shot. It would be on line 00000150.

Let's hope this is just a programmer setting and not something different between Chevy and Holden.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Yeah, close the software completely, restart it and try reading it again.


i did that. I downloaded 3 different version of the same software. All reads the new VIN.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Since I know just enough to be dangerous.... :rotate:

I have a few questions???

To successfully update the VIN I will need:

1) CH341A reader. Any suggestions as to a "good" but "cheap" one to use for this 1 time operation? I have not seen the reader actually mentioned except in passing?

2) Clip set to attach to chip. So one of the $10.00 ones from eBay will suffice?

3) Recoding the VIN should suffice to get radio to work? (BTW I am moving from MyLink touch screen to MyLink NAV if it makes a difference.)

AND, (not sure if anyone knows)

4) Will the VIN recoding allow for updating the maps/program on the nav via the USB port?

I have the NAV front panel and UHQ NAV radio on the way, (should get them here by Tuesday), and am pondering if I should just pack up the radio and send it to White Auto & Media Services and have them unlock and update to 2017 specs?


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## sally body (Apr 5, 2015)

I haven't read the whole 34 pages, but i have read the last 5 pages.
if I am getting this right.
I am adding a factory camera complete on the trunk and changing the rear truck harness to "With Camera option".
Now in order to get it to work i need to reprogram the eprom to include the full vin of the car, is that correct?
Also they said the eprom is on the pcm or did they mean the BCM.
Sorry i am a Newbie.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

sally body said:


> I am adding a factory camera complete on the trunk and changing the rear truck harness to "With Camera option".


Our information so far indicates that the needed wires are missing from the body and instrument panel harnesses. So you're probably going to have to find some other way of getting power to the camera and the signal to the radio.




sally body said:


> Now in order to get it to work i need to reprogram the eprom to include the full vin of the car, is that correct?


We don't yet know where the option for the rear camera is encoded. It's probably in the eprom, but we're not sure what part of it. We're changing the VIN to get a replacement radio to work.


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## sally body (Apr 5, 2015)

ok i believe the wires that are missing are from the ecm to the back of the radio.
Assuming you are adding the correct license molding with the correct harness and camera in it. Also replacing the trunk harness to the Drivers 1/4 panel.
I believe the main car harness from the quarter panel to the bcm has all the correct wiring.
I will let you know what i find out Monday. I have ordered the trunk harness and installed a camera on the rear.
However i don't have the UVC code on a 2015 Cruze and i don't know if that is just a wiring completion to work or the code has to be corrected on the radio. i first have to get all the wiring in place first and i'll let you guys know.


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## sally body (Apr 5, 2015)

OK A FOLLOW UP. I ORDERED A 94556229 TRUNK HARNESS to replace the harness from the 1/4 panel to the trunk.
to old harness has 9 wires and the new harness is unknown but i believe it has 14 wires i will let you know when i get it.
the connection in the trunk has 14 wires at the main harness in the 1/4 panel which is a extra 5 wires that.
the camera has 6 wires which i believe it shares a ground wire in the trunk harness.
I need to get a harness connector diagram to verify.
let me know if anyone can help.
Looks like the main car harness from the trunk to the radio and ecm has the wires there but i haven't checked the radio and ecm yet.
I will let you know what i find.
The million dollar question; is there a code (S/w or F/W) that needs to be updated in the system, radio or not?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

@Occams_Razor & @sally body, if you could please move your questions to their own threads, it would be appreciated. This one is for adding Mylink to the 2011-2012 Cruzes (pre-Mylink).


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## sally body (Apr 5, 2015)

Sorry don't know how, i thought this was my link in general.
I would like to start a tread for adding factory camera to my link.
Also does anyone have the connector pin outs for the camera and BCM (pictures of the connectors) for chevy Cruze.
Thank You


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Thank you for the wonderful diagram on your wiring harness @*dhpnet*. I figured out the 2 sets of 3 wires in the pdim harness That need to be spliced together to fully provide aux jack in. :wavetowel2::yahoo:

Edit: see post 353 for picture of work.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Thank you for the wonderful diagram on your wiring harness @*dhpnet*. I figured out which 3 wires need to be cut from the pdim harness and spliced into the main harness to fully provide aux in. :wavetowel2::yahoo:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You should also run the drain wire from the PDIM connector to the radio to protect it from noise.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

There should be 5 wires from the PDIM connector to the radio, if that is how you are wiring it. There is the left signal, right signal, common, audio screen (drain), and the Aux Detection Signal (this tells the radio that you plugged something into the Aux port).


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> You should also run the drain wire from the PDIM connector to the radio to protect it from noise.


It is already that way. That or else there is some excellent noise shielding in this car's wiring. I am picking up no noise with the engine running while using my iPhone SE which is plugged into the aux in and playing music. Even the email notification I just received did nothing except temporarily decrease the audio volume to get my attention.




dhpnet said:


> There should be 5 wires from the PDIM connector to the radio, if that is how you are wiring it. There is the left signal, right signal, common, audio screen (drain), and the Aux Detection Signal (this tells the radio that you plugged something into the Aux port).


4 wires go to the pdim from the radio on 2011-2012 audio systems with pdims installed. The 5th (detection) only runs between the pdim and the aux in. That is why the upgrade makes the aux jack always selectable, the radio couldn't check its status and was stuck on "active". I had already run a detection wire from the radio just to clear up that glitch, that is the one in the pictures with the bulky in line splice connection. It will be properly routed once I can run to the salvage yard and pull a harness adapter and wires with pins to repurpose.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

wrx5 said:


> I have the full setup. CH341A reader and test clip. I am able to read other chip on the board but cannot read this specific chip.


What other chips have you been able to read?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Thank you for the wonderful diagram on your wiring harness @*dhpnet*. I figured out the 2 sets of 3 wires in the pdim harness That need to be spliced together to fully provide aux jack in.


You say 2 sets of 3 wires (6 total). From what I understand, you just need to re-route the USB directly to the radio, and re-route the 5 wires from the Aux jack directly to the radio. I am also planning to just leave the PDIM connected to the car, but just bypass it with new USB and Aux wiring in the center console. Since you are further along, I am wondering if there is something I am missing here. 

Are you planning to remove the PDIM? From what I understand, the LAN expects the PDIM to be there. I am assuming that the MyLink radio will just ignore any network commands from the PDIM.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> You say 2 sets of 3 wires (6 total). From what I understand, you just need to re-route the USB directly to the radio, and re-route the 5 wires from the Aux jack directly to the radio. I am also planning to just leave the PDIM connected to the car, but just bypass it with new USB and Aux wiring in the center console. Since you are further along, I am wondering if there is something I am missing here.
> 
> Are you planning to remove the PDIM? From what I understand, the LAN expects the PDIM to be there. I am assuming that the MyLink radio will just ignore any network commands from the PDIM.


Actually, it would be 1 set of 4 Aux Jack wires (audio Left, Right, Common and Drain/Display) and 1 set of 5 (L/R/C/D and the PDIM to Aux only enable wire) plus the ones related to USB. They feed into the PDIM from the radio (set 1) then feed out of the PDIM to the Aux jack (set 2). Unfortunately, the connectors use different type pins, so you can't just swap them. Once I figured out which ones were L/R/C from the radio and which were L/R/C to the jack, spliced them together and viola, works like a charm. I did not hook up the Drain/Display and do not have any noise issues. The only issue I had with the wires was in figuring out which went where so I could do the initial test. I had 2 of the right wires immediately but since both sets use the same colors, the 3rd wire was the one from the PDIM to the Aux, not Radio to PDIM. When I double checked, I noticed the 2 correct wires were in their own tape wrap bundle. So I looked for and found the right color 3rd wire in that mini bundle and tested successfully. Like your diagram says the wires to splice together are green, gray and violet.

The LAN doesn't care if a PDIM is installed or not. Over in the BT PDIM thread there are people that found out that they couldn't do the upgrade because they are missing the necessary radio to module wiring due to never having had one installed originally.

With 1 exception, I haven't had a pdim installed since I upgraded to mylink. The exception was after I made and installed my enable line. I tested a pdim to see if the jack would work, but it didn't so I removed the pdim again and waited until I figured out the wiring for direct connect.

Here is my final wiring.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Actually, it would be 2 sets of 4 Aux Jack wires (audio Left, Right, Common and Drain/Display) and the PDIM to Aux only enable wire plus the ones related to USB. They feed into the PDIM from the radio (set 1) then feed out of the PDIM to the Aux jack (set 2). Unfortunately, the connectors use different type pins, so you can't just swap them. Once I figured out which ones were L/R/C from the radio and which were L/R/C to the jack, spliced them together and viola, works like a charm. I did not hook up the Drain/Display and do not have any noise issues. The only issue I had with the wires was in figuring out which went where so I could do the initial test. I had 2 of the right wires immediately but since both sets use the same colors, the 3rd wire was the one from the PDIM to the Aux, not Radio to PDIM. When I double checked, I noticed the 2 correct wires were in their own tape wrap bundle. So I looked for and found the right color 3rd wire in that mini bundle and tested successfully. Like your diagram says the wires to splice together are green, gray and brown.


Got it. You were talking about bypassing the PDIM by directly connecting the 3 wires in the dash harness to the three wires in the console harness (2 sets). Actually, with that terminology, it would be 2 sets of 5 wires (L, R, Common, Drain/Screen, and Enable). 

I actually found a console harness on ebay for $10 with free shipping. I took it apart for the USB cable, and I cut off the PDIM connector and added a new connector to the aux wires so that I can plug it into the harness I have built. I am going to leave the original console harness disconnected in the console and just plug the new harness into the Aux and USB plugs. 



StLouisCPhT said:


> The LAN doesn't care if a PDIM is installed or not. Over in the BT PDIM thread there are people that found out that they couldn't do the upgrade because they are missing the necessary radio to module wiring due to never having had one installed originally.


Good to know. I plan to just leave the PDIM in the car and re-route the USB and Aux wires around it. Based on the harness I got on ebay, it looks like the cigarette lighter plugs are also powered through the PDIM connector. If that's correct, then you would need to keep the PDIM in order to power those plugs.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> Good to know. I plan to just leave the PDIM in the car and re-route the USB and Aux wires around it. Based on the harness I got on ebay, it looks like the cigarette lighter plugs are also powered through the PDIM connector. If that's correct, then you would need to keep the PDIM in order to power those plugs.


No, they are powered by the radio's USB connection, not the PDIM.

And for the record, Mylink is perfectly happy charging two devices simultaneously on an Aukey Dual Port 4.8a car charger. I have them in both lighter sockets, but haven't tried 4 devices simultaneously yet.


----------



## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> What other chips have you been able to read?


To be honest I don't know what they are or what they are for. I was randomly trying to see I could read other chips or not. Reading returned scrambled text only. But this doesn't mean my attempts were successful. It was still early stages of my new experiment and I am sure the scrambled text wasn't the correct reading as the selected chip type was wrong. 

Long story short: I thought I was able to read other chips because reading were returning something for them but no result was coming back when tried to read the chip for VIN. That made me thought that I was able to read other chips.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

Good news...    I have managed to install the OEM silver box which has navigation and reverse camera features. Reverse camera hasn't been installed yet. I will order one from eBay (aftermarket version). Pay attention to dynamic guidelines 





















I didn't use the roof antenna as it was going to be a messy job for me. I have ordered below aftermarket GPS antenna (search on the eBay as "fakra gps antenna". don't pay attention to car brand that listed. Just check the plug. as long as plug is same. you can order any of them). It cost me $7 AUD. Tested, works perfect. Very fast response. I placed it under dash, close to instrument panel, on top of the front vent pipe. I used double sided sticker to keep it stable. 















What's left??

I need to run a cable for reverse camera from headunit to trunk. Ohh, also need to order a camera. I will post the images once I finish that part.

Important thing is that I didn't need to de-solder the chip which believed to be for write-protection. All I did was I read the chip which was mentioned on page #7 of this topic, update the VIN number and write it back to the chip. As mentioned before in this forum; this may only apply to Australian models. Needs to tested for other countries.

I just want to clarify this part:

I went from touch screen MyLink without navigation and without reverse camera to touch screen MyLink with navigation and reverse camera.

I needed to change the silverbox which came out from 2016 model GEN1 car. I also needed to buy the front panel buttons. So in total just 2 items. I didn't get the touch screen as my car already equipped with it. 

Up until here I used the existing wiring harnesses. I didn't cut any cables etc. I will need to add pin 5 and pin 15 to X2 plug for reverse camera. I guess this will be the only wiring task. 

I want to use this opportunity to thank you guys for the help provided. I wouldn't be able to do this without you guys. Lucky, this forum is exist.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Good work! You're on your way.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

wrx5 said:


> I didn't use the roof antenna as it was going to be a messy job for me. I have ordered below aftermarket GPS antenna (search on the eBay as "fakra gps antenna". don't pay attention to car brand that listed. Just check the plug. as long as plug is same. you can order any of them). It cost me $7 AUD. Tested, works perfect. Very fast response. I placed it under dash, close to instrument panel, on top of the front vent pipe. I used double sided sticker to keep it stable.
> 
> View attachment 222610
> View attachment 222618
> ...


I am doing a similar conversion. MyLink Touch Screen to MyLink Nav. (but I already have the backup camera)

As for the antenna... Since Aussie vehicles do not have OnStar they do not have the GPS antenna already integrated into the rooftop antenna? (I noticed that the radio you procured is NOT the same UHQ Nav radio that we use here in the states.)


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> .Important thing is that I didn't need to de-solder the chip which believed to be for write-protection. All I did was I read the chip which was mentioned on page #7 of this topic, update the VIN number and write it back to the chip. As mentioned before in this forum; this may only apply to Australian models. Needs to tested for other countries.


In the United States the pin or resistor definitely need to be desoldered. I tested 4 Chevrolet branded boxes and 1 Buick branded box (incorrectly sold as a Chevrolet Cruze box) and all 5 refused to write to the EEPROM unless the protection was disabled. They use the same radio and ISSI EEPROM in the United Kingdom (although it is branded Daewoo), so most likely would also need the write protection disabled.

I could not find that specific ST branded EEPROM found in your radio anywhere although I did come across similar family chips. It could very well be the one in your box does not have write protection enabled by default, or it is only enabled when the vehicle is powered on. It could even be possible that specific EEPROM does not have write protection capabilities, although it does have the resistor between 7 & 8 so I don't think that is the case.


Unfortunately, it seems like it is more common for other countries to use the same box found in Sonics instead. They have a different board layout and chips than the Cruze/Holden radio.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> In the United States the pin or resistor definitely need to be desoldered. I tested 4 Chevrolet branded boxes and 1 Buick branded box (incorrectly sold as a Chevrolet Cruze box) and all 5 refused to write to the EEPROM unless the protection was disabled. They use the same radio and ISSI EEPROM in the United Kingdom (although it is branded Daewoo), so most likely would also need the write protection disabled.


Just to throw out another idea - perhaps your burner doesn't have enough drive to overcome the resistor for some reason but wrx5's burner does. I'd think the resistor is just a pull-up. Perhaps 1K ohm at the lowest. That doesn't seem like something that should be a struggle for the burner.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Just to throw out another idea - perhaps your burner doesn't have enough drive to overcome the resistor for some reason but wrx5's burner does. I'd think the resistor is just a pull-up. Perhaps 1K ohm at the lowest. That doesn't seem like something that should be a struggle for the burner.


Tried 2 different burners, the second one was the same one wrx5 used. Just to be safe, I even used a "Y" USB cable designed to provide power to a USB device from 2 USB ports. There is always the possibility of a defective one in a batch, but I dont think that is the case here.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Tried 2 different burners, the second one was the same one wrx5 used. Just to be safe, I even used a "Y" USB cable designed to provide power to a USB device from 2 USB ports. There is always the possibility of a defective one in a batch, but I dont think that is the case here.


I don't know if that makes a difference or not but I used USB3 port.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> I don't know if that makes a difference or not but I used USB3 port.


No difference, my system only has USB 3.0 ports on it.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

Occams_Razor said:


> Since Aussie vehicles do not have OnStar they do not have the GPS antenna already integrated into the rooftop antenna?


Yes they have. Car which comes with factory navigation will have the rooftop gps antenna. I have the OEM rooftop antenna at home which I didn't install. 

check this one out http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...a-vs-aftermarket-post2747114.html#post2747114


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> No difference, my system only has USB 3.0 ports on it.


Could it be unit from 2016 model car? Also chip brand was different. ST something

Another thing; I used version 1.30 of the software CH134A programmer


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> Could it be unit from 2016 model car? Also chip brand was different. ST something


The Buick and the last Cruze radio came from 2016 vehicles also. Plus, your radio says the same as mine: HW build date 20NOV2014. So, there has been no change to hardware design in over 2 years.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> The Buick and the last Cruze radio came from 2016 vehicles also. Plus, your radio says the same as mine: HW build date 20NOV2014. So, there has been no change to hardware design in over 2 years.


How about chip brand? in the picture you have posted, the brand was ISSI. However, it was different in my case. I am not sure if this makes a difference or not.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> How about chip brand? in the picture you have posted, the brand was ISSI. However, it was different in my case. I am not sure if this makes a difference or not.


As I said, I do think that is where the difference lies. I can't find any information about the specific chip you have, just the general family. It could be programmed or designed differently.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I'm technically on vacation for a couple weeks right now (job hunting), so the mylink project is on the back burner for a while.


Got a new job yesterday, front end parts sales for a private salvage yard here. Didn't tell them why, but when they asked what I was asking for in terms of pay or perks, I asked for first view of all radios pulled from GM vehicles dated 2010 and newer.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Got a new job yesterday, front end parts sales for a private salvage yard here. Didn't tell them why, but when they asked what I was asking for in terms of pay or perks, I asked for first view of all radios pulled from GM vehicles dated 2010 and newer.


Congrats. Sounds like you may have an inside track on radios.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Can anyone tell me the approximate size of the original image file when you read the VIN chip? Just trying to verify that the image is complete before making any changes as I can consistently get the previous VIN number but the image file size isn't always the same.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

16kb


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

16,384 bytes

I find it odd you'd get different sizes. I'd think the software would pull data until the settings it was given had been cycled though. If it was unable to complete, then it should signal an error. Do you have the right chip type selected?


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> 16,384 bytes
> 
> I find it odd you'd get different sizes. I'd think the software would pull data until the settings it was given had been cycled though. If it was unable to complete, then it should signal an error. Do you have the right chip type selected?


It was the POS chip reader that was causing the issue. Got a new reader and it has consistently read and written the image without issue. 

Might open another thread since I am moving on to a separate part of this same project. Moving an image from one style headunit, (in this instance a GMC Terrain Nav), to make it a compatible with the Cruze Nav control panel.

Terrain system works fine but none of the buttons are actually mapped correctly. At least the touch screen works! 

The Terrain unit even has Text Messaging that my original unit did not even though my Cruze headunit is supposedly "newer", (and I am using the exact same phone)?


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## mlkej (Mar 10, 2017)

I recently upgraded my Spark (similar to Cruze) from a standard radio to a Mylink unit. In doing so I had to reprogram the eprom (essentially erased it) to avoid getting the "Locked" message. I got a lot of help in my project from reading this Cruze site and thought it appropriate to publish what I did here in hopes that it might help somebody else in a similar situation.


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## mlkej (Mar 10, 2017)

*eprom erase*

In order to transfer a Mylink radio from one Chevy to another, the eprom chip must be erased from the original head unit before it is installed in the new unit.


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## mlkej (Mar 10, 2017)

My experience with re programming eproms in Mylink head units leads me to believe that the chip can be written to without clipping the #7 leg or "WP" write protect leg.


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## mlkej (Mar 10, 2017)

I made a blog post to share my experience regarding switching a Mylink head unit from one Chevy to another:

Busted-Knuckles / Jeep TJ / Harley 883R / Ducati Monster: 2013 Chevy Spark Mylink radio upgrade from LS to LT model


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mlkej said:


> I recently upgraded my Spark (similar to Cruze) from a standard radio to a Mylink unit. In doing so I had to reprogram the eprom (essentially erased it) to avoid getting the "Locked" message. I got a lot of help in my project from reading this Cruze site and thought it appropriate to publish what I did here in hopes that it might help somebody else in a similar situation.


When you say "erased" you mean erase just the VIN or the whole chip?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

@*Occams_Razor* I can already tell you that moving an image of the vin chip from one style to another will not solve the issue with the controls. It requires a full hardware reflash. Tested it with a Buick Verano radio. If I remember correctly, that was the issue the OP Modalita had run into when they made the initial DIY. This is why I specifically stated to use Cruze radios.

Regarding the "newer" Cruze radio vs "older" Terrain, the manufactured date is a red herring. It is the sw and hw build dates that determine which radios have what capabilities.

@*mlkej* The Spark does not use the same mylink radio as found in the United States Cruze. The one you had to get is shared with the Sonic and foreign built Cruze models. That is why you had to flash it differently using the information found on the Russian site.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

It does raise a question if the radio will configure itself if the chip is completely blank.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> It does raise a question if the radio will configure itself if the chip is completely blank.


I tried that with the Verano radio when I was still trying to resolve the 2 Bluetooth networks issue I had. Sadly, didn't fix that either.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> The US ones don't. I tried that with the Verano radio when I was still trying to resolve the 2 Bluetooth networks issue I had. Sadly, didn't fix that either.


What did the radio itself do? I think the 2 networks is triggered by playing with the radio, but ultimately is not the responsibility of the radio.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> What did the radio itself do? I think the 2 networks is triggered by playing with the radio, but ultimately is not the responsibility of the radio.


No change: touch screen was fine, steering wheel controls were fine. Control panel was a random puzzle. Still booted as a Buick radio. Acted the same as just zeroing out the vin.

Whatever it was that fixed it, I don't know but I'm just happy I only have 1 network now and it is free of Onstar


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> No change: touch screen was fine, steering wheel controls were fine. Control panel was a random puzzle. Still booted as a Buick radio. Acted the same as just zeroing out the vin.


So the eeprom doesn't hold the vehicle specific configuration. Curiouser and curiouser.... So on what chip is the hardware configuration hidden? 

This is really actually just an intellectual endeavor at this point as I have a 2014 Cruze Nav arriving tomorrow, (from a Diesel no less!), so I am going to swap out for the Terrain unit but would still like to see where the hardware config is stored and see if it can be flashed from a different model. 

It obviously can be done since there are shops that do it and they aren't using a model specific radio to do it but finding where the coding is hidden appears to be the puzzle piece that is missing.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> No change: touch screen was fine, steering wheel controls were fine. Control panel was a random puzzle. Still booted as a Buick radio. Acted the same as just zeroing out the vin.
> 
> Whatever it was that fixed it, I don't know but I'm just happy I only have 1 network now and it is free of Onstar


So clearing the eeprom does nothing? And clearing just the VIN also does nothing? (just unlocks the radio in both cases?)


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy noticed a change when flashing a non premium radio vin dump to a premium radio. I suspect the radio has the actual software on multiple chips (for example the software for the Bluetooth would be found in the Bluetooth csr chip and hooked into by the OS) and the vin chip holds ".ini" config files for specific features only.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Occams_Razor said:


> So clearing the eeprom does nothing? And clearing just the VIN also does nothing? (just unlocks the radio in both cases?)


Correct.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> ChevyGuy noticed a change when flashing a non premium radio vin dump to a premium vin radio. I suspect the radio has the OS on 1 or 2 big chips (remember, GM Techs are required to use a 8GB or larger USB drive when updating) and the vin chip holds ".ini" config files for specific features only.


But if the eeprom held the *.ini files for features wouldn't a blank eeprom give you "No Features"?

I am getting into the weeds here because I have a friend that is an embedded systems engineer who is helping me with my little project and he is like a dog with a bone. Once he sees that the eeprom doesn't do what we want he is going to keep farting with it until he makes it sit up and beg....


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Occams_Razor said:


> But if the eeprom held the *.ini files for features wouldn't a blank eeprom give you "No Features"?
> 
> I am getting into the weeds here because I have a friend that is an embedded systems engineer who is helping me with my little project and he is like a dog with a bone. Once he sees that the eeprom doesn't do what we want he is going to keep farting with it until he makes it sit up and beg....


The system could recreate the ini files upon first start. Just like DOS and Windows apps like to do when they can't find ini files. Mame is a perfect example of this: making inis for every game you play.

I'm in the weeds at this point too. I gave a unit to a friend to tear apart and make lunch out of the chips  haven't checked on him yet though, so I don't know how accurate I am.

Will you be selling tickets? Where can I buy one? If he can just find a way to update the embedded GraceNote database I'd be happy. Really getting tired of seeing it override Empire Strikes Back as Empire of the Sun. Or the corrupted artwork for Garth Brooks Double Live album.

Have your friend focus on the chips under the shield on the riser board. I know that there are at least 2 ISSI chips under there and the CPU is also there.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Here's what we do know: clearing out the VIN will allow the radio to reset it.



The chip does contain the premium/non-premium tone curves.
The chip does contain radio presets (it moved between units).
It does not contain the keyboard mapping.
It does not contain the startup logo.
I don't think it contains Bluetooth pairing (that didn't copy).

Since the radio will self-update the VIN if it's blank, it raises the possibility that it can self-detect the rest of the features and update that as well.

I think the software itself is on a massive 8MB flash chip. The little 128Kbit chip is just for "features" and stuff. While 16KB is small, it's still a vast wasteland of 00 or FF. I'd guess not much more than 1KB of real data.

At this point my expectation is that the 8MB chip holds the data that determines the car line (Chevy, Buick, etc). The 16KB chip holds the stuff that distinguishes between cars on the same assembly line. (So, it probably includes the camera switch as well.)

As much as I'd like to dig into the 8MB chip, I've not found a clip that will fit it and I'm not really keen on trying to desolder it. Even if I could, I'm having a heck of a time trying to get data on the chip sets needed to reverse engineer to that detail. Specifically the DSP chip that's at the heart of the radio performing the functions of a preamp. Also that Sony chip up near the video connector.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I think the software itself is on a massive 8MB flash chip. The little 128Kbit chip is just for "features" and stuff. While 16KB is small, it's still a vast wasteland of 00 or FF. I'd guess not much more than 1KB of real data.
> .


I think bigger. GM techs are instructed to use a 4GB or larger flash drive to update.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> ChevyGuy noticed a change when flashing a non premium radio vin dump to a premium radio.


This is new. I have been following this thread, but I didn't see a post about flashing a non-premium radio to a premium radio. Did this actually change the output of the radio to line level? @ChevyGuy did you post that information somewhere? That would be interesting to know because then I could use the '16 radio I picked up.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I think bigger. GM techs are instructed to use a 4GB or larger flash drive to update.


There is an 8MB chip in the radio. Someone could try copying the program from that and flashing it to a different radio.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Here's what we do know: clearing out the VIN will allow the radio to reset it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It also contains the light options that match the radio display color to the car color.

i just re-erased the Verano unit and tried it in my Cruze. That was the only change I could find.

ChevyGuy, believe it or not but that heat sink is for the chip it screws onto. That sucker gets HOT! The fan handles the rest of the box.

i was going to send you a copy of my chip dump results after the re-erase, but wouldn't you know It? My clip just broke.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> This is new. I have been following this thread, but I didn't see a post about flashing a non-premium radio to a premium radio. Did this actually change the output of the radio to line level? @ChevyGuy did you post that information somewhere? That would be interesting to know because then I could use the '16 radio I picked up.


I'm pretty sure I posted in one of the MyLink threads. I don't remember which one.

Bottom line (no pun), the "line outs" are speaker outs. They're called line outs because it's going from head unit to amp. Calling them speaker outputs when they don't go to a speaker would be confusing. Aftermarket install instructions calls them speaker outputs because they're explaining the modifications you need to make for your car. But GM is explaining how it comes from the factory.

Those "line outs" are perfectly happy to drive speakers at good volume. The big difference is the tone curve. Using a uncalibrated smartphone app, it's like 10dB down at 3KHz. Running a premium sound head unit in a non-premium sound car makes a already unspectacular sound system really dull. If I had a bright center speaker, it might have sounded OK.

Fortunately, reflashing the radio with the file from the original radio fixed it. 





dhpnet said:


> There is an 8MB chip in the radio. Someone could try copying the program from that and flashing it to a different radio.


Sorry, it's a 8Mbit (1MByte) chip. S29AL008J a 48-pin TS048 style package. It also has a 256-byte "secure" area. So far, I've not seen any clip to be able to connect to it in-circuit. Even if we could read it, I'm not sure what we'd find. I don't know as the instruction set of the D70F3358GJ(A) CPU is all that common. It might take a very specialized decompliler to make sense out of it.

The CPU is listed has having 1MB of ROM. If there's any other memory, I've not found it. The shielded areas looks like it's for the radio and the video processor. But then they went to a lot of effort to hide that small flash ram we've been poking around in.

No idea why it takes 4GB to program such a small amount of memory. Unless maybe it's having to deal with a lot of encryption.




StLouisCPhT said:


> It also contains the light options that match the radio display color to the car color.


Eh? Can you post any examples? I wasn't aware that the radio display was any other color.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Eh? Can you post any examples? I wasn't aware that the radio display was any other color.


I didn't think to photo the one I have, but here is a link and link 2 to a red tint background unit.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

My Terrain Nav unit has a red honeycomb background.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Occams_Razor said:


> My Terrain Nav unit has a red honeycomb background.


The Verano uses a nice wave pattern in red. Now it is blue, after the full erase.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I didn't think to photo the one I have, but here is a link and link 2 to a red tint background unit.


I guess I lucked out. The donor car has a black interior - so is mine. I'm thinking it's intended to match the dash colors rather then the outside.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> I guess I lucked out. The donor car has a black interior - so is mine. I'm thinking it's intended to match the dash colors rather then the outside.


Not sure, every Cruze model I have tested was blue. Only the Verano was red, until I did the full erase.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Not sure, every Cruze model I have tested was blue. Only the Verano was red, until I did the full erase.


What were the interior colors? I don't know as it's designed to match as much as "not clash". If the Verano had a red interior, the default blue would be a problem.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Not sure, every Cruze model I have tested was blue. Only the Verano was red, until I did the full erase.


But with the full erase it still kept the Intellink & Buick logo?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> What were the interior colors? I don't know as it's designed to match as much as "not clash". If the Verano had a red interior, the default blue would be a problem.


No clue. That was the one that was sold to the local Cruze owner as being from a Cruze by DiscountOEMRadios on ebay. I wouldn't trust any answer they gave, considering they claim it was probably stuck in the Cruze just for a salvage sale.



Occams_Razor said:


> But with the full erase it still kept the Intellink & Buick logo?


That is correct. the full erase didn't change anything except the red theme, the VIN and reset the radio presets.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> No clue. That was the one that was sold to the local Cruze owner as being from a Cruze by DiscountOEMRadios on ebay. I wouldn't trust any answer they gave, considering they claim it was probably stuck in the Cruze just for a salvage sale.


If you have the VIN, it would be part of the RPO list. Down near the bottom.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> If you have the VIN, it would be part of the RPO list. Down near the bottom.


Not sure I still have it. It might be on the vin chip dump I gave you though. I should mention this though, my neighbors just bought a brand new Buick Regal. it has a dark interior and it's radio theme is also red.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

StLouisCPhT said:


> it has a dark interior and it's radio theme is also red.


Black goes with a lot of things. The key is to find a radio in an interior that would clash with the default.

It wouldn't surprise me but what the radio has just two colors: default and alternate. The two are such that one of them will match for all of the interior color options.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Did that radio from the terrain have support for the rearview camera installed? If so the guidelines could be seriously out of place in regards to the Cruze. I'm not sure why, but the Verano radio I had put the guidelines at a visual height of about 3 feet higher than the Cruze radios did. I forgot to check and see if it was still that way after I did the full erase, will test it either tomorrow night or Sunday.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

The Terrain radio I installed had a Build Date of April 2014. Software: 02August2013. Hardware: 31August2012.

Rearview Camera but no guidelines.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

The Cruze radio I am about to install, (P/N 23121124), has a Manufacture Date of April 2013. Software: 14.12.2012. Hardware: 15.06.2012.

The original VIN Code from the car it came from shows that it had a rearview camera. Have no idea if it will have the guidelines or not.

Interesting enough the RPO Sticker on the Terrain is totally different from the RPO Sticker on the Cruze.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> Rearview Camera but no guidelines.


Guidelines didn't appear in the Cruze until the 2015 MY. There is an option to turn them off. IIRC, my 2013 also had that option - it just didn't do anything. I'll have to look closer, but I haven't spotted anything different about the internals of a 2013 vs. a 2015. It may just be software (not config). I'm not sure what year the guidelines appeared in the Terrain.




StLouisCPhT said:


> Did that radio from the terrain have support for the rearview camera installed? If so the guidelines could be seriously out of place in regards to the Cruze. I'm not sure why, but the Verano radio I had put the guidelines at a visual height of about 3 feet higher than the Cruze radios did.


Makes sense. The location of the guidelines are going to depend on how high the camera is off the pavement. Googling 2015 Verano, some of the images show the license plate down in the fascia instead of up on the trunk lid.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> I'm pretty sure I posted in one of the MyLink threads. I don't remember which one.
> 
> Bottom line (no pun), the "line outs" are speaker outs. They're called line outs because it's going from head unit to amp. Calling them speaker outputs when they don't go to a speaker would be confusing. Aftermarket install instructions calls them speaker outputs because they're explaining the modifications you need to make for your car. But GM is explaining how it comes from the factory.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the explanation. That helps. I will try flashing my 2016 radio and see if it works properly with the premium audio. 

Did you by chance save the original data file from your premium radio? It would be interesting to compare that one with mine and maybe we could figure out what part of the data is the tone curves. We could also try to do that with the background color option if @StLouisCPhT saved that file.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy has a copy of the Verano's vin chip dump. However, I can't pull a post erase copy to compare with until the new clip I just ordered arrives. I ordered 2 types this time, the clip and ribbon style and a push-on socket clip like the ones used in the early Wii mod chips.

*Wanders off to get even more lost in Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild*


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Guidelines didn't appear in the Cruze until the 2015 MY. There is an option to turn them off. IIRC, my 2013 also had that option - it just didn't do anything. I'll have to look closer, but I haven't spotted anything different about the internals of a 2013 vs. a 2015. It may just be software (not config). I'm not sure what year the guidelines appeared in the Terrain.
> 
> 
> 
> Makes sense. The location of the guidelines are going to depend on how high the camera is off the pavement. Googling 2015 Verano, some of the images show the license plate down in the fascia instead of up on the trunk lid.


Heh, never thought of that. I was obviously surprised at the way it looked, then shrugged it off as a software glitch and turned off the guidelines. Will still test it later to see if the erase might have reset it to be appropriate to the Cruze.

Re: Hardware changes. I think the various hardware builds just streamlined minor things for cleaner circuit boards and of course switch from 2 BT antennas to 1 antenna.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Installed the Nav unit today.

2014 Cruze Diesel for my 2014 Diesel. Only thing different is that the donor car had a sunroof and, (I think), parking assist and/or side monitoring. Not a big deal with the radio.

No guidelines for the backup cam.

Interesting enough DID NOT have to remove the resistor to program the VIN. My friend tells me that the value of that resistor is so low that it is probably there to prevent a random current surge from erasing the chip and not so much as to prevent a purposeful write. If it was write-blocking how would dealers reprogram radios? It is not like they take the radios apart and defeat the resistor...

My friend has my original MyLink, (non-nav), and I will be taking him my Terrain Nav paperweight so he can do a little exploring on the inner workings. 

He already has all of the image files from the MyLink-NoNav, the Terrain Nav and the MyLink Nav and will be doing some comparisons to see what he can find.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I don't believe that the dealers actually modify that chip during updates. Considering that a full erase of the VIN does not change anything fundamental about the radio's programming, the actual OS is clearly not found in that chip. Just the VIN and setting files for user customizable options. 

We know that zeroing out the VIN allows the radio to automatically pair to new vehicles. And we know that the vehicle needs to be running for any kind of reprogramming (either via OBD-II port or USB). So new or replacement radios are most likely installed blank and are programmed by the car the first time it is started rather than by a dealership.

I personally know that any attempt to write to the ISSI brand chip in 4 non navigation test units would fail with the resistor installed or pin 7 soldered. However, the ST brand chip in wrx5's navigation unit had no trouble flashing with the resistor installed or pin 7 soldered. To clarify, do you have an ISSI chip or ST chip in your navigation radio?

Something else to keep in mind: Map Updates. these are handled by the end user, not the dealer. If the map files are also kept in the vin chip, then it is possibly unlocked by default to allow the updates to occur.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

@ChevyGuy

I have been searching for radio models for a couple months now and it seems that the only vehicles I can find any of the 840xxxxx series models in are Veranos and Equinoxs. I have not found a single Cruze that uses them. To make matters worse, eBay sellers are starting to list compatible interchange numbers instead of listing the exact model they are selling, so you don't know what one you are actually getting, like what happened to the Cruze owner by me. Basically it is false advertising, but because they say "compatible with" in their listings, eBay will not touch them. Which is ironic because they also say "verify part number, unit may not fit if numbers do not match" in their listings. 

I did find a 23378511 being sold by a local salvage yard and pulled from a Cruze. I'll call them from my yard on Monday to ask them to verify the model number, vehicle it was pulled from. If it checks out, that would appear to be the most recent drop in part number available.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> I definitely know that any attempt to write to the ISSI brand chip in my non navigation test units would fail with the resistor installed or pin 7 soldered. To clarify, do you have an ISSI chip or ST chip in your navigation radio?


Same chip. Same resistor. We removed it on the Terrain when we were having issues reading the image but that turned out to be a pos chip reader.

We read and wrote the Cruze without removing the resistor.



StLouisCPhT said:


> Something else to keep in mind: Map Updates. these are handled by the end user, not the dealer. If the map files are also kept in the vin chip, then it is possibly unlocked by default to allow the updates to occur.


Map updates are going to be interesting since you need to give the VIN number for them to sell you the update file. Not sure if they verify that the VIN in question was originally equipped with a NAV or not? :question:


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Occams_Razor said:


> Map updates are going to be interesting since you need to give the VIN number for them to sell you the update file. Not sure if they verify that the VIN in question was originally equipped with a NAV or not? :question:


Supposedly there is a new update coming soon, going to volunteer to be a guinea pig?


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Supposedly there is a new update coming soon, going to volunteer to be a guinea pig?


Actually the update for the Cruze Diesel, (and I have no idea why the Diesel is different), is already available or is not subject to the "new" March 15 update.

GM | Chevrolet | Volt | 2013 | GM - Connected Nav Radio System Map Update (13) V.2017 | HERE*

GM - Connected Nav Radio System Map Update (13) V.2017*

Part number 84024267

The deed has been done. Update on the way!


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> Only thing different is that the donor car had a sunroof and, (I think), parking assist and/or side monitoring. Not a big deal with the radio.


Actually, every Cruze with a sunroof had the sun and sound package, which means it had the Pioneer premium sound option with an amplifier in the trunk and different tone curves. If you have that option, great. If not, then you will need to do what @ChevyGuy did. It sounds like he copied the contents of a chip without the premium sound option and put it on his radio. Not sure if a full wipe removes that or not.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

Do you know the RPO code for that? I do not have the amplifier in the trunk. Radio sounds fine.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> Do you know the RPO code for that? I do not have the amplifier in the trunk. Radio sounds fine.


Rear view camera (UVC)
Premium sound (UQA)

Yes, to get what I wanted, I did copy my 2013's radio into a 2015 radio. Everything except for the data block that had "FCCRNA" in it from 11B0 to 11FF. From what I could figure out, that had some version information in it. As such, I felt it would be best if the 2015 kept that part intact.
@Occams_Razor: I can send you the 2015 file if you want. That has UVC and UQA. But it sounds like you've installed the Nav verson. I've only got non-Nav files.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

ChevyGuy said:


> Rear view camera (UVC)
> Premium sound (UQA)
> 
> Yes, to get what I wanted, I did copy my 2013's radio into a 2015 radio. Everything except for the data block that had "FCCRNA" in it from 11B0 to 11FF. From what I could figure out, that had some version information in it. As such, I felt it would be best if the 2015 kept that part intact.
> @*Occams_Razor* : I can send you the 2015 file if you want. That has UVC and UQA. But it sounds like you've installed the Nav verson. I've only got non-Nav files.


I just checked and neither one of the VIN's, (Non-NAV and NAV), had UQA. (Premium Sound)

Both did have UVC, (Rear Camera), and UZ6, (SPEAKER SYSTEM - 6, PREMIUM). Not sure how UZ6 is different from UQA?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> I just checked and neither one of the VIN's, (Non-NAV and NAV), had UQA. (Premium Sound)
> 
> Both did have UVC, (Rear Camera), and UZ6, (SPEAKER SYSTEM - 6, PREMIUM). Not sure how UZ6 is different from UQA?


The standard radio has 6 speakers that are powered by the radio. The premium audio (UQA) has 9 speakers powered by an amplifier in the trunk. Chevrolet only sold (and still only sells) the sunroof as a package that includes the 9 speaker premium audio. For Gen 2 Cruzes, you must also get the technology package and the convenience package to get the sunroof. There is and was no option for a sunroof that does not include the premium sound. 

That may not be true outside North America. I have no idea on that. 

Almost every trim level of the Honda Civic includes a sunroof, but GM thinks the sunroof is very special and requires you to pay A LOT more to get it.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> The standard radio has 6 speakers that are powered by the radio. The premium audio (UQA) has 9 speakers powered by an amplifier in the trunk. Chevrolet only sold (and still only sells) the sunroof as a package that includes the 9 speaker premium audio. For Gen 2 Cruzes, you must also get the technology package and the convenience package to get the sunroof. There is and was no option for a sunroof that does not include the premium sound.
> 
> That may not be true outside North America. I have no idea on that.
> 
> Almost every trim level of the Honda Civic includes a sunroof, but GM thinks the sunroof is very special and requires you to pay A LOT more to get it.


Not sure then how the donor car, (definitely a Country - United States of America - EF7 & NA Market Car - MAH), ended up with a sunroof, (ROOF - SUN, GLASS, SLIDING, ELEC - CF5), but no Premium Sound... :huh:


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> Not sure then how the donor car, (definitely a Country - United States of America - EF7 & NA Market Car - MAH), ended up with a sunroof, (ROOF - SUN, GLASS, SLIDING, ELEC - CF5), but no Premium Sound...


I can't see whatever you have attached or quoted. Maybe the source you are using for the VIN build information is not accurate. Or maybe it is possible that you could special order one that way. Or maybe it was some sort of fleet car or something. Either way, if it's working for you now, then that's all that matters.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

A note to anyone using MVI's harness. From what I can see in the original post on this thread, MVI's harness adds a new connector (X3) to the OnStar module for the radio voice recognition signal. The original Cruze wiring for MyLink systems uses wires that attach to the X2 connector on the OnStar Module, and the X3 connector is not used. 

While doing a little searching yesterday, I found this article. 

PI1533B: Poor Radio Hands-free Voice Recognition Performance or Sound Quality After OnStar Upgrade – 2007-2015 Buick Cadillac Chevrolet GMC Saturn | gm.oemdtc.com

It basically says that some cars were using the connections in the X3 connector and were having problems with the voice recognition. The fix for those problems was to move the terminals in the X3 connector to the X2 connector (the way the Cruze was originally built, and the way I drew it in my wiring diagram). 

If you have any voice recognition problems with the MVI harness, you might want to consider making this change.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> I can't see whatever you have attached or quoted. Maybe the source you are using for the VIN build information is not accurate. Or maybe it is possible that you could special order one that way. Or maybe it was some sort of fleet car or something. Either way, if it's working for you now, then that's all that matters.


I am going off the original RPO codes sticker from the glove box of each car.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Occams_Razor said:


> I am going off the original RPO codes sticker from the glove box of each car.


Very interesting. If you go to the Chevrolet website and build a Cruze, you can see it's still not possible to get the sunroof without the sun and sound package, which includes the upgraded premium audio (Gen 1 was Pioneer, Gen 2 is Bose). There must have been some sort of alternative to that somehow. Maybe it was a fleet purchase or something. Rental car companies sometimes get fleets with options that aren't available to the public.

Are you sure it had a sunroof? (RPO CF5)


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

After thumbing through the images, I'm not sure what part holds the sound curves. I'm getting hits on 3 blocks and some random stuff.

What I think I've identified is the station presets. At least this is the only part that changes after doing a radio reset. It's the data block from 0151-0160. But I'd include everything from 0050-0165 since the radio I got may not have had every channel programmed. The rest of that block looks blank, so there shouldn't be any harm in copying it.050-165


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

dhpnet said:


> Very interesting. If you go to the Chevrolet website and build a Cruze, you can see it's still not possible to get the sunroof without the sun and sound package, which includes the upgraded premium audio (Gen 1 was Pioneer, Gen 2 is Bose). There must have been some sort of alternative to that somehow. Maybe it was a fleet purchase or something. Rental car companies sometimes get fleets with options that aren't available to the public.
> 
> Are you sure it had a sunroof? (RPO CF5)





Occams_Razor said:


> Not sure then how the donor car, (definitely a Country - United States of America - EF7 & NA Market Car - MAH), ended up with a sunroof,* (ROOF - SUN, GLASS, SLIDING, ELEC - CF5),* but no Premium Sound... :huh:


Yes. I have even seen pictures of the donor. Definitely has a sunroof.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

@*ChevyGuy* and @*dhpnet* : Check your PMs


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

ChevyGuy said:


> Bottom line (no pun), the "line outs" are speaker outs. They're called line outs because it's going from head unit to amp. Calling them speaker outputs when they don't go to a speaker would be confusing. Aftermarket install instructions calls them speaker outputs because they're explaining the modifications you need to make for your car. But GM is explaining how it comes from the factory.
> 
> Those "line outs" are perfectly happy to drive speakers at good volume. The big difference is the tone curve. Using a uncalibrated smartphone app, it's like 10dB down at 3KHz. Running a premium sound head unit in a non-premium sound car makes a already unspectacular sound system really dull. If I had a bright center speaker, it might have sounded OK.
> 
> Fortunately, reflashing the radio with the file from the original radio fixed it.


I confirmed today that the radio used for the Pioneer Premium audio system does in fact have speaker outputs, not line level outputs. Not that I didn't trust you, but I had to confirm it myself to be sure. I disconnected the amplifier and put jumpers between the connector pins for the radio output and the speakers. The radio powered the speakers just fine. It actually sounded about the same, except it was missing the center speaker and the rear subs. 

I think it's a little odd that they are speaker outputs because it says line level and low level throughout the service manual, and the wires between the radio and amplifier are shielded. But, the good news is that I now know that I can use any MyLink and flash the chip with the correct tone curves. I will test that later. I have 3 head units to play with (actually 4 if I count the one I ripped apart and never put back together).

Thanks, ChevyGuy, for the information.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> I think it's a little odd that they are speaker outputs because it says line level and low level throughout the service manual, and the wires between the radio and amplifier are shielded.


Given that the head unit has the same part number, I'd find it odder if it did. Too much added electronics for a marginal gain.

The only thing I find odd is the shielded cable. I would have thought they'd stick 4-8 ohm load resistors in the amp and called it good. With impedance that low, it's not going to pick up much hum.


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Supposedly there is a new update coming soon, going to volunteer to be a guinea pig?


So I received the update to the NAV maps. It required that the VIN number be provided when the order is placed. I was a little apprehensive thinking that the VIN might be checked against "GM in the Sky" and come back as invalid since my car did not originally have NAV but it seems that the VIN is just checked against the radio and not anywhere else.

The update takes a loooooong time to run but it did eventually run to completion after close to an hour with the car idling in my driveway.

So I guess that answers the question of if a car that was not originally equipped with NAV, (or MyLink in general I suppose), is going to cause issues with VIN authentication.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

For the non OCD


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> For the non OCD


Good information. I downloaded the datasheet a few months ago, but never noticed that it had that mode. The amp in the radio definitely has a selectable line out mode. That would make more sense because the service manual clearly says it uses low level outputs to the Pioneer amplifier, and the wiring is shielded. The line driver mode is turned on by a signal over the data bus inside the radio. 

So, the question is now, how does it turn on the line driver mode? The Pioneer amplifier is not connected to the car's data bus. I wonder if the radio has some way of sensing that the amplifier is connected? Maybe it uses a ground wire, or maybe it is detected by the remote turn on circuit. That would make it easier for manufacturing. They could just install the radio and it would automatically detect if an amplifier is there or not. 

When I bypassed the amplifier it played speaker level. But, I had completely disconnected the amplifier when I did this. I might try it again, but leave all of the connectors connected except for the radio outputs and the speaker connectors. 

If it actually does sense the amplifier and turn on line driver mode, then it might be possible for anyone to turn on line out mode without the Pioneer amplifier. This would make it possible to connect an external amp without a LOC.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

KENSTV123 said:


> For the non OCD


Meaning what? I looked though the datasheet, and all I can find is the gain is different and the threshold for short circuit detection is raised from 0.5 to 1.5 ohms. Since I didn't notice any 24dB difference in gain, I'm not sure as that mode is used.


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## mjspiess (Nov 11, 2013)

dhpnet said:


> If it actually does sense the amplifier and turn on line driver mode, then it might be possible for anyone to turn on line out mode without the Pioneer amplifier. This would make it possible to connect an external amp without a LOC.


Just curious...would the Pioneer amp be able to be plugged directly into the base radio or does the Pioneer radio have a different female end than the base radio? What would it require to retro fit the Pioneer amp & subs into a base radio car?


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## BrandoFisher117 (Mar 14, 2016)

mjspiess said:


> Just curious...would the Pioneer amp be able to be plugged directly into the base radio or does the Pioneer radio have a different female end than the base radio? What would it require to retro fit the Pioneer amp & subs into a base radio car?


This thread is for the MyLink upgrade, you may be better off creating your own thread and going from there.


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## KENSTV123 (Sep 21, 2014)

Programming in the flash memory sets up the audio output, it's encrypted as are all the programming thru GM service tis which provides the encryption key, not your normal line level output but indeed outputs to speaker wires change


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## cmarkwart (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok all I'm going to try this . I was wondering if some one would be able to message me the steps to build my own wire setup. I have ordered lots of things but need to know if I have the right things I'm not good with forums. That's with you I like to talk with some one over the phone or Txt message. I have a 2012 eco. 4" setup.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

mjspiess said:


> Just curious...would the Pioneer amp be able to be plugged directly into the base radio or does the Pioneer radio have a different female end than the base radio? What would it require to retro fit the Pioneer amp & subs into a base radio car?


Not that simple. For non-premium sound, the speakers are wired directly to the radio in the dash. For premium sound, the radio is connected to the amp in the trunk and then the speakers are run from there. Different body harness. If you want to retrofit, you'll have to run a bunch of wires and add the connectors for the amp. Not to mention adding the wires and the plugs for the 3 extra speakers.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

mjspiess said:


> Just curious...would the Pioneer amp be able to be plugged directly into the base radio or does the Pioneer radio have a different female end than the base radio? What would it require to retro fit the Pioneer amp & subs into a base radio car?


Completely different wiring throughout the car. The My Link upgrade makes sense because it give you additional functionality and a nicer screen. Upgrading to the Pioneer amplifier does not. You would be better off upgrading to an aftermarket amplifier. There are a ton of threads on upgrading to aftermarket amplifiers. Search for those.

If you still want to use the Pioneer amp, start a new thread on that topic and you will get some good replies.


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## cmarkwart (Aug 26, 2012)

HI all I'm looking for a wire harness fro 2012 Eco to 2013 mylink non nav. i also have 9 speaker system. Harness used or can someone build me one cheeper than MVI ? 
PM me


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

Finally got the upgrade done. I used a 2014 MyLink #23206821. I built the harness using the wiring diagram I posted previously. Works great. Backup camera, voice recognition, everything. 

There are a lot of things I like about it, and a few things that I thought were better on the base radio. I have noticed that the MyLink woman gets a little crabby (maybe even mean) when you don't speak at the right time. The voice recognition works, but isn't all that great. The audio quality on the old radio is slightly better, but not a huge difference. It's also annoying that the USB has to index every single time I start the car. The old radio only indexed when I first plugged in the USB stick. It also takes a little longer to boot up when I start the car. 

Here is a before and after shot. 









I did this mostly as a project for fun. The MyLink looks better, but isn't really all that amazing. Not sure if I am going to keep it. I am already thinking about doing some research on connecting a tablet to the GM LAN, or maybe a raspberry pi. I have read a few sites on hacking the GM LAN, and that sounds like fun. But, that might take more work than I really want to do right now.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

dhpnet said:


> It's also annoying that the USB has to index every single time I start the car.


I see that for awhile, and then I don't. I think it eventually does get it all indexed.


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## cmarkwart (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok I hooked everything up using the new harness adaptor . It turned on and had sound all buttons worked . I had everything appart . so I turned off the car and then put everything in bolted down and snapped all panels in place. 

then I started up the car and was going to link my cell bluetooth . it turned on all buttons work but now no sound. 
I went in to test mode and still nothing. I used stock reset still no sound. 

what could be wrong?
I then put in my old unit and everything works even the sound.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Sounds like in buttoning things up, something happened to the wiring or connectors. All I can suggest is to try again and care careful notes. Given that you have an adapter, some things might be getting scrunched when put into place.


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## cmarkwart (Aug 26, 2012)

ok I found the problem I have a Radio that is RPO:UZ6 (6 speaker non premium) 
I'm looking to trade one for RPO:UQA (9 Speaker premium)
I will trade and also reprogram it for you free of charge as long as you can mail me yours and I will mail you mine
PM me anytime


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I went the other direction and other than the noticeable tone change, didn't have a problem. But you've got an amp to make happy. I didn't.


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## cmarkwart (Aug 26, 2012)

I'm now selling the Mylink head unit. it is for a car only with non Premium speaker setup. programing the chip is included. 
pm me if interested


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

Occams_Razor said:


> Actually the update for the Cruze Diesel, (and I have no idea why the Diesel is different), is already available or is not subject to the "new" March 15 update.
> 
> GM | Chevrolet | Volt | 2013 | GM - Connected Nav Radio System Map Update (13) V.2017 | HERE*
> 
> ...


Is this version newer than the one you posted?

GM | General Motors | GM - Connected Nav Radio System Map Update V.2018 | HERE


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## Occams_Razor (Dec 9, 2016)

wrx5 said:


> Is this version newer than the one you posted?
> 
> GM | General Motors | GM - Connected Nav Radio System Map Update V.2018 | HERE


I think it is. Of course it came out a week or two after I bought the one I indicated. I was thinking about getting this "new" update but have been stalling because it is "another" $159 for what is probably incremental changes.


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## lvcordov (Dec 24, 2017)

Thanks!


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

So did anyone confirm that a Pioneer MyLink radio will NOT work in Standard Cruze? Did anyone find that feature in the chip that it could be modified? Mayb eeven modify a NON backup radio to allow backup cam?
Also, when I modify the chip I can put in "00" in VIN location and radio will auto input my VIN?

Did anyone find out the location in radio to change colors, theme, wallpapers, startup GIF, etc?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

1) Pioneer Mylink radios work in standard cruzes. Might sound different though depending on how good your hearing is.

2) Put the zeros on the HEXADECIMAL side (left), not over the actual vin on the right side. The radio will auto-detect your vin and save it to it's memory.

3) Changing the radio from amp to non-amp &or adding camera functions to a non camera radio require dealership reprogramming.

4) Colors, themes, wallpaper, startup animation, etc can not be changed. Although, radios with part numbers starting with 88 have a different startup animation from all other versions.


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

Perfect, thanks for the response. Just re-read all 46 pages of this thread and that's what I gathered.

Just got this in the mail, ordering my EPROM tonight so this weekend I'm going to get her disected and reprogrammed. 
Getting the harness and cam this weekend so hopefully next weekend I'll be Upgraded!


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

BlakeCary said:


> So did anyone confirm that a Pioneer MyLink radio will NOT work in Standard Cruze?


It will work, but the tone will be way off. If you're replacing another MyLink, just copy the entire chip rather than just the VIN and it seems to turn out OK.

If at all possible, I'd suggest you find a MyLink that matches your options.


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

Im not sure what options it had, I asked for VIN and RPO sheet prior to purchase on Ebay (from seller that others had used) but all they had was VIN.
1G1PE5SB1G7136000 - from the limited data I got online says its a 16 Limited 2lt but thats it. 
Is there anyway to find out more from the radio itself? Or do I have to call the dealer and see if they can give me the build sheet?
If it is a Premium Speaker Radio would it be possible to get the Standard Speaker chip data from someone via email or something like that and write that data?


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## caleborlando (Mar 6, 2018)

Wait... are you telling me that if I have a 2012 LT with Pioneer system, but the ugly green small screen, I can find a MyLink radio and changed?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

caleborlando said:


> Wait... are you telling me that if I have a 2012 LT with Pioneer system, but the ugly green small screen, I can find a MyLink radio and changed?


I haven't done it, but others have.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

BlakeCary said:


> Im not sure what options it had, I asked for VIN and RPO sheet prior to purchase on Ebay (from seller that others had used) but all they had was VIN.
> 1G1PE5SB1G7136000 - from the limited data I got online says its a 16 Limited 2lt but thats it.
> Is there anyway to find out more from the radio itself? Or do I have to call the dealer and see if they can give me the build sheet?
> If it is a Premium Speaker Radio would it be possible to get the Standard Speaker chip data from someone via email or something like that and write that data?


The VIN is all you need to find out everything. According to my search, the VIN number you listed above was from a 2016 Limited (Gen1) LTZ, and it had the standard, base audio (not the Pioneer Premium audio). If your car is also a standard sound system, then you are good to go. That should be a great radio with the most up to date software. 

They easiest way to tell if the car had the Pioneer system with the VIN number is to type the VIN into a parts site and see if it lists any of the Pioneer components, such as the dashboard center speaker, rear deck subwoofers, or the amplifier in the trunk. 

This is the site I used to get the info above. Just copy and paste the VIN, then click on Audio System/Speakers in the list. Since it only lists the standard speakers, the car didn't have Pioneer. 
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/

Here is another site with a VIN decoder. This one charges a fee, but you get a very comprehensive report of the build of the car. 
Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder

You can also take the VIN to the parts department at your dealer and they can tell you a lot.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

BlakeCary said:


> Im not sure what options it had, I asked for VIN and RPO sheet prior to purchase on Ebay (from seller that others had used) but all they had was VIN.
> 1G1PE5SB1G7136000 - from the limited data I got online says its a 16 Limited 2lt but thats it.
> Is there anyway to find out more from the radio itself? Or do I have to call the dealer and see if they can give me the build sheet?
> If it is a Premium Speaker Radio would it be possible to get the Standard Speaker chip data from someone via email or something like that and write that data?


You have the following options:

RADIO AM/FM STEREO, SINGLE CD, MP3 (AUX IN), USB STEREO W/MP3, USB & SINGLE CD(UFU)
WIRELESS INTERFACE SHORT RANGE,VOICE RECOG,MUSIC,NAV,STREAMING AUDIO SHORT RANGE WIRELESS W/VOICE RECOG,MUSIC,NAV, STREAMING AUDIO(UP9)
CAMERA REAR VIEW REAR VIEW CAMERA(UVC)
SPEAKER SYSTEM 6, QUAD FRT DR MTD, DUAL QTR MTD 6 SPEAKER SYSTEM(UZ6) (This is the standard speaker setup, please make a copy of your chip read and send to me!)

While I am not that active on here anymore, I can run VINs up to 2016 on Compnine for free.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

caleborlando said:


> Wait... are you telling me that if I have a 2012 LT with Pioneer system, but the ugly green small screen, I can find a MyLink radio and changed?


Yes, it's possible. Many people have done it. Please see the first post in this thread. Or, look at this post. 

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...ck-dirty-mylink-upgrade-diy-gen-1-cruzes.html

If you have the Pioneer system, and want to continue using the Pioneer system, then you should look for a My Link radio that came out of a car with the Pioneer system.


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

Very cool guys, that's exactly what I was hoping for. So this is navigation too? The control panel without the arrows on it came with it, will that work with the Nav?
I'll be sure to send you a copy. Pm me your email and I'll send it you


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

BlakeCary said:


> Very cool guys, that's exactly what I was hoping for. So this is navigation too? The control panel without the arrows on it came with it, will that work with the Nav?
> I'll be sure to send you a copy. Pm me your email and I'll send it you


The picture of the radio you posted previously is not a navigation unit. You can tell by the codes on the sticker. The one you posted says UFU&UP9. Navigation units would say UHQ&UP9. If you got a control panel with the arrow buttons in the middle, then you have the wrong control panel for that radio. I don't know if it will work with the non-navigation unit, but it probably won't work correctly. 

Here are what the RPO codes mean:

UFU - Chevrolet MyLink Color Touch radio with 7″ diagonal color touchscreen display includes Bluetooth streaming audio; hands-free smartphone integration; Pandora and Stitcher smartphone compatible; voice-activated technology. Included with (UFU) AM/FM stereo with CD player.


UP9 - Chevrolet MyLink, includes Bluetooth streaming audio for music and select phones; voice recognition for phone, music and radio; Pandora and Stitcher smartphone compatible; Gracenote (Playlist+, Album Art); software updatable for radio software and Gracenote database


UHQ - all the features of (UFU) plus GPS Navigation option


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

Is this the way to reprogram this so it will auto learn my VIN?


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Bingo!


BlakeCary said:


> Is this the way to reprogram this so it will auto learn my VIN?
> 
> View attachment 257898
> View attachment 257905


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Btw, as a side note:

Canadian UFU+UP9 MyLink radios do not include Pandora.

Canadian UHQ Navigation Mylink radios do not include SiriusXM Travel Link (Weather, Fuel Stations, Movies) and Pandora.

The only way to tell for certain what type you are considering buying is to get the VIN of the donor vehicle and have it checked before you purchase it. If they can not provide the VIN and those are functions you need to have, don't take the chance.

(IMHO, the only options out of those that I think are really worth it would be the ability to get weather and fuel station data. Otherwise, meh.)

===========================
I've been meaning to mention this for a while, but kept forgetting.

My parents bought a brand new 2018 GMC Acadia back in August and surprisingly it came with a Gen 1 Intellilink system in it. I've also started to see the 8xxxxxxx series silverboxes appearing on ebay, pulled from Buick Cascadas


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

You guys ROCK. I zero'd out the VIN and reassembled it. Waiting for Harness to come in then ill be Good to Go!


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

BlakeCary said:


> You guys ROCK. I zero'd out the VIN and reassembled it. Waiting for Harness to come in then ill be Good to Go!


Now, upgrade your onstar module to Gen10 and you'll never want to drive anything else


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Btw, as a side note:
> 
> Canadian UFU+UP9 MyLink radios do not include Pandora.
> 
> ...


How do you know if you have a Canadian radio beside it not having these features? I didnt install mine yet. :icon_scratch:


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

May have found a source for a full P&P wire harness. I will have it this week and radio installed this weekend. Ill be sure to update everyone on my results once it's all hooked up.


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## RandomGM (Sep 3, 2014)

Model: 2014 1LT w/ MyLink 7" screen

I'm looking to downgrade from the 7" screen, to the little screen regular cruzes have. (looking to put the little screen above the dashboard, and then install a 7" tablet in-place of the current screen.

1) Will it just be plug and play for the little screen (or will I need to zero out the vin)?
2) The only thing I think I'll really be losing, is the backup camera, right?
3) Is there anything else I'm not thinking of?

I'm trying to keep most of the regular functionality of the car in-tact, and add the 7" tablet wired via aux for media/maps (possibly use an app like AutoMate).


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## BlakeCary (Jan 11, 2017)

So when I was reassembling after the reprogram I was thinking if I could have just swapped my XM module so I don't have to call Sirius to transfer? I didn't check part #, anyone know?


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

BlakeCary said:


> So when I was reassembling after the reprogram I was thinking if I could have just swapped my XM module so I don't have to call Sirius to transfer? I didn't check part #, anyone know?


Yes, you can do that. I did it on mine. The only issue is that you won't be able to get the XM weather and traffic. That is not included in the base radio. That also requires an extra subscription. If you swap them then you won't have to pay the fee they usually charge for switching radios.


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

RandomGM said:


> Model: 2014 1LT w/ MyLink 7" screen
> 
> I'm looking to downgrade from the 7" screen, to the little screen regular cruzes have. (looking to put the little screen above the dashboard, and then install a 7" tablet in-place of the current screen.
> 
> ...


If you downgrade to the green screen then you will need to replace the silver box, screen and control panel. It would require changes to the wiring. And, you would need to reprogram the downgrade silver box with your VIN. 

The big things you will lose are the backup camera, bluetooth streaming and voice control of the radio. 

I don't know what would happen to the phone connection to the radio. The bluetooth phone connection is in the radio with MyLink, but it is in the Onstar module with the green screen. I don't know if the onstar module in a My Link car was programmed to handle the phone connection, so it might not work anymore after your remove My Link. 

I don't think anyone has ever done this, so you would be going into uncharted territory. But, I imagine that it would work fine if you get the wiring right. The wiring would be the biggest hurdle because you would need to figure out all the required changes.


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## RandomGM (Sep 3, 2014)

Well.. you've convinced me not to remove the stock unit currently. I'd really like to put something above the screen, in place of the upper compartment.

I'll stick with my Sony Xperia XA1 ultra for now. It fits pretty well in front of the stock 7" screen.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> Yes, you can do that. I did it on mine. The only issue is that you won't be able to get the XM weather and traffic. That is not included in the base radio. That also requires an extra subscription. If you swap them then you won't have to pay the fee they usually charge for switching radios.


I spent sometime time trying to determine if we could change the associated vin in the xm modules also, but they seem to function the same way as the Onstar modules do and rely exclusively on the station ID instead of the vin.




dhpnet said:


> I don't know what would happen to the phone connection to the radio. The bluetooth phone connection is in the radio with MyLink, but it is in the Onstar module with the green screen. I don't know if the onstar module in a My Link car was programmed to handle the phone connection, so it might not work anymore after your remove My Link.


No matter which radio setup you have, the Onstar module can handle the phone connection. Mylink users just have to manually initiate it through the hidden Onstar menu. When I upgraded my unit, I found 5 phones registered to my new unit still.


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## caleborlando (Mar 6, 2018)

RandomGM said:


> Well.. you've convinced me not to remove the stock unit currently. I'd really like to put something above the screen, in place of the upper compartment.
> 
> I'll stick with my Sony Xperia XA1 ultra for now. It fits pretty well in front of the stock 7" screen.


do you have a pic how it looks? Im super frustrated with my stereo 2012 No My link and no Bluetooth.. and Im super lost on what My link radio I need or cables or I dk.. So.. Im thinking After Market radios.


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## brianboyer82 (Apr 6, 2018)

I have a 2014 cruze that has the mylink and did the nav upgrade but the nav buttons on the control panel do not work anybody know how to fix this? I did have a dealer unlock the radio. well all they did was install an update for it and it unlocked.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

brianboyer82 said:


> I have a 2014 cruze that has the mylink and did the nav upgrade but the nav buttons on the control panel do not work anybody know how to fix this? I did have a dealer unlock the radio. well all they did was install an update for it and it unlocked.


Take it back to the dealer. It was not set up correctly.

That said, installing updates will not "unlock" a radio. That just makes certain the software is correct for the vehicle's hardware and up to date.


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## AdhamSuwan (May 8, 2018)

Can you please answer my question here 
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/232170-lcd-screen-installation.html


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

For any Navigation Mylink users interested, the GPS eeprom is located on the underside of the riser board (side marked component side). Hopefully they all use the same eeprom chip, the one I have here is a Telik JF2 and the hardware user guide can be found here. The Bluetooth controller is also located here as well as a Sony IC that is related to video output (B1457R). I assume it is used by the GPS system as well. 


By this logic, it would appear that the main eeprom chip(s) that handle everything else are under the heatshield on the same side.


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## khancock70 (Jun 4, 2018)

Okay, who sells a plug and play kit to upgrade a 2014 Chevy Cruze w/o Mylink to upgrade it to Mylink w/Nav? 

I have the radio, the screen, the trunk chrome piece with the camera, GMpartsfirst sent me the wrong harness, so they are refunding my money on that oneAnd I may go with them to send me the part I originally ordered.

I just need the wiring and specific instructions.

I am also putting in the Gen10 Onstar with wifi.

I know about MVI, and I have another set sourced. I just want to know who is reputable, and gives specific instructions on the wiring.


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## Lowgone (Aug 5, 2018)

Thanks for the info, I have a 2012 eco without mylink and found a 2013 eco at a junkyard with it. The car is the same color as mine too so I took the trunk for the backup camera.
View attachment 265923
View attachment 265925


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## TeamNadomas (Sep 5, 2018)

I'm not sure if i'm in the right place but I have a couple questions. Hopefully someone can answer or point me in the right direction. 
I have a 2013 Cruze LTZ Pioneer system. 
I've had the car since 2014 and never really used the navigation. Recently I started using it. I also just subscribed back to SiriusXM and added travel link and navigation. I ordered the 2017 map update from GMNAVDISC V2017 for $99 (not here yet) Now my questions.
1.I can't see any difference with the navigation with or without the SiriusXM navigation subscription. Can anyone confirm what exactly it's supposed to do?
2. My Mylink has never been updated. I scheduled an appointment to take it to the dealer next week. Can anyone confirm if there is an update for the Mylink itself and not just the maps (which I already bought)
3. Is there a way to update my mylink to get android or apple car play?
4. When I used my old Windows 7,8 &10 phones it would ask when I got a text to read it. Is there a way to enable this with an android phone? 
Thanks in advance for any help


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

TeamNadomas said:


> 1.I can't see any difference with the navigation with or without the SiriusXM navigation subscription. Can anyone confirm what exactly it's supposed to do?


I'm not sure. The only thing I can think of is that it will provide updates for dynamic content. Do you have anything that shows gas prices?



TeamNadomas said:


> 2. My Mylink has never been updated. I scheduled an appointment to take it to the dealer next week. Can anyone confirm if there is an update for the Mylink itself and not just the maps (which I already bought)


Over the life of the car? Yes. But dealers seem to be loath to update it unless you a complaint that can be solved by an update.



TeamNadomas said:


> 3. Is there a way to update my mylink to get android or apple car play?


No. You'd have to buy a Gen2 car. I haven't seen anything about trying to install a Gen2 headunit into a Gen1 car.



TeamNadomas said:


> 4. When I used my old Windows 7,8 &10 phones it would ask when I got a text to read it. Is there a way to enable this with an android phone?


I don't think so. When I had my 2013 radio, I used a Text to voice app to read my messages. If you install a 2015/2016 radio, you'll get that and backup guidelines in your rearview camera. Also, the clock will auto-set. (Have a MyLink without Nav, and that was my experience.)


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## TeamNadomas (Sep 5, 2018)

Yes I have the gas prices, weather and movies but that's a separate subscription "SiriusXM travel link". That one works but my SiriusXM navigation doesn't do nothing differently than my navigation did before I activated the SiriusXM navigation


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## TeamNadomas (Sep 5, 2018)

I'll find something to complain about to get them to update the firmware. Do you know how to find your firmware version? I just realized my maps I bought is V.2017. That's the newest they have for 2013 and it came out February 2017. For the 2014 they have V2018 which came out this year. I thought the 2013 and 2014 radios were identical. I wonder why the new 2018 maps doesn't work with the 2013


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

TeamNadomas said:


> Do you know how to find your firmware version?


I remember navigating to that, so it's in the menu somewhere. But off the top of my head, I don't remember.

Be forewarned, it's a ton of listings, not something like a neat like a laptop BIOS version. More like a listing of every module.

But if you have the rear view camera, those guidelines are really nice. They move as you move the wheel, so you can see exactly where to turn the wheel to get where you want to go.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

2013-2018 Gen 1 Mylink Radios are identical only in general design of the silverbox. Over the years there were changes made not only externally (reducing the number of antennas), but also internally with newer programming and hardware components.

The navigation subscription is not worth the purchase. The idea is to provide users with information about traffic and provide alternate routes as needed. However, those functions only operate if you are using the system to get directions to an entered destination. It does not function in a dynamic sense and even worse, it only functions as advertised on certain roads and only in certain areas of the United States.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Re: Mylink radio software updates

I can finally report that the mylink usb updates are not vin locked and can be downloaded by anyone with paid access to SPS, a programming tool and a usb flash drive. The SPS system only needs the vin to select the appropriate updates for the radio. Once the selection has been made, the software is downloaded to the USB flash drive and will happily install to a mylink radio that has been placed in an older cruze (MY11 & MY12 for the purposes of this thread). The update files can also be copied via windows cut and paste without issue.

The USB update is the same thing as the programmer tool update. 

Now, to shed some light on the dealership issue: In addition to GM’s tech bulletin not allowing such a cross-upgrade, a dealership has to pay for each vin number they need to program, and it is not exactly worth adding one just for this.


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## juant87 (Nov 23, 2018)

Hi, new to the forum and about to make a decision on what to get.

I want to upgrade my current 2013 mylink unit to a 2016 mylink unit mainly because of carplay and I would love to keep the Cruze aesthetic if possible.

My car is the 2013 Cruze Eco LT, with infotainment and navigation package (i’m 80% certain about the nav)

Is it possible or would I be better off with a third party?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

juant87 said:


> I want to upgrade my current 2013 mylink unit to a 2016 mylink unit mainly because of carplay


Lots of luck. When we talk about upgrading to the 2016, we're talking about upgrading to the 2016 limited (1st Gen Cruze), NOT the 2016.5 2nd Gen Cruze. 2nd Gen has Carplay. First Gen does not.


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

An aftermarket headunit is your ONLY option, if you want CarPlay/Android Auto.


juant87 said:


> Hi, new to the forum and about to make a decision on what to get.
> 
> I want to upgrade my current 2013 mylink unit to a 2016 mylink unit mainly because of carplay and I would love to keep the Cruze aesthetic if possible.
> 
> ...


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## juant87 (Nov 23, 2018)

StLouisCPhT said:


> An aftermarket headunit is your ONLY option, if you want CarPlay/Android Auto.


yeah i thought so after reading up. gonna take advantage of the black friday sales. thanks for your help 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

Expect to pay an arm and a leg for the headunit and all the adapters needed to interface with your vehicle.



juant87 said:


> yeah i thought so after reading up. gonna take advantage of the black friday sales. thanks for your help
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

StLouisCPhT said:


> Expect to pay an arm and a leg for the headunit and all the adapters needed to interface with your vehicle.


WOW! 50 pages, 500 posts and 263,953 looks so far and counting. Epic post!


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

I am now changing my recommendation for the preferred part number to be used for the MyLink upgrade. The new part number is *84062126*. The reason for this change is that ALL 23xxxxxx series Mylink radios have an issue with the ram chips failing due to weak clock (timing) signals in high temperatures. 

Finding a Cruze with that part number is very very rare to say the least. It would have to come from another brand of GM vehicle and it will require reprogramming of the radio to work with a Cruze.


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## thebac (Jul 29, 2017)

Would it be possible to use the OEM harness out of a mylink-enabled Cruze instead of buying the harness from MVI and use that for the swap, or is it buried within the dash/part of another harness making it not possible?


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## OnfEAnGP (May 30, 2019)

Hi,
Currently I have version 24.5-42349351
Is there a newer version?
I have 2016 Chevrolet Trax

Thanks ahead!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

OnfEAnGP said:


> Hi,
> Currently I have version 24.5-42349351
> Is there a newer version?
> I have 2016 Chevrolet Trax
> ...


Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

Some more threads to read:

Updated Quick and Dirty Mylink Upgrade DIY for Gen 1 Cruzes
How To Disassemble Radio To Program VIN
How I did the MyLink Wire Harness

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## modalita (May 25, 2013)

thebac said:


> Would it be possible to use the OEM harness out of a mylink-enabled Cruze instead of buying the harness from MVI and use that for the swap, or is it buried within the dash/part of another harness making it not possible?


Theoretically you could but I was tired after all the research....back and forth to the dealer and so forth when I did the original write up.


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## s.dm (Apr 25, 2020)

Hi I purchased a screen and Raid Mylink and I want to install it for the 2011 Cruise how can I connect it


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

s.dm said:


> Hi I purchased a screen and Raid Mylink and I want to install it for the 2011 Cruise how can I connect it


Welcome Aboard!

Read the links in post #506
don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Billy8098 (Oct 22, 2017)

I have a 2014 Cruze Diesel that has the Mylink non-Nav system. I am able to get a Mylink with Navigation (GM P/N 22989452) from a 2013 Cruze gas model for free from a friend. I have ran the VIN on the 2013 and it has the same RPO codes as my car other than the UHQ code. Both have the UVC (camera), UZ6 (basic 6 speakers) and UP9 (Mylink). My question is will everything work once the VIN is reprogrammed in the Mylink w/ Nav radio? Already have an aftermarket GPS antenna available.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

dhpnet said:


> I drew it up and added the connector end views. For the camera, I used the lid harness because I am planning to purchase the whole chrome bar.
> 
> View attachment 212890


Can you possibly reload this photo? For some reason it will not show.


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## wrx5 (Oct 11, 2016)

Hi Everyone,

Previously I have successfully replaced MyLink Non-Navigation version with MyLink Navigation version including reverse camera. I am an IT engineer and with Dhpnet's great instructions and StLouisCPhT's help it was easy to do. That chapter finished. Sold that car. I have another one 2015 model with MyLink Non-Navigation system. Blue screen one. I was planing to do the same thing for this car as well but technology changed a lot and now having system with Apple Carplay or Android Auto makes more sense.

My question is that is here any way to replace MyLink Non-Navigatin with a Apple CarPlay available system? or somehow can we add Apple CarPlay to MyLink?

Thanks in advance...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

wrx5 said:


> Hi Everyone,
> 
> Previously I have successfully replaced MyLink Non-Navigation version with MyLink Navigation version including reverse camera. I am an IT engineer and with Dhpnet's great instructions and StLouisCPhT's help it was easy to do. That chapter finished. Sold that car. I have another one 2015 model with MyLink Non-Navigation system. Blue screen one. I was planing to do the same thing for this car as well but technology changed a lot and now having system with Apple Carplay or Android Auto makes more sense.
> 
> ...


Mylink 2.0 Alternative and aftermarket hands free microphone adapter


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

Ok, I have tried this before and failed and tried again and failed. How in the world does the X200 connector come apart? I pull the lever down to 90 degrees. I've tried pulling the connector up and tried sliding it out. Nothing works. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!

Update: Got it. What a pain!

Does anyone have a color chart of the wires in the X200 connector? Or at least the Camera 6+/7- colors that go back to the camera?


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

PAChevyCruze said:


> Ok, I have tried this before and failed and tried again and failed. How in the world does the X200 connector come apart? I pull the lever down to 90 degrees. I've tried pulling the connector up and tried sliding it out. Nothing works. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
> 
> Update: Got it. What a pain!
> 
> Does anyone have a color chart of the wires in the X200 connector? Or at least the Camera 6+/7- colors that go back to the camera?


Is this the one you are looking for?

Connector

Diagram


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

Blasirl said:


> Is this the one you are looking for?
> 
> Connector
> 
> Diagram


That works. Thanks. 

Im still trying to figure out how these pins slide into the connector. dhpnet had the part number as 13575546, but how they slide all the way in is stumping me. Someone else posted that they used terminals 13575773. Can anyone clarify what exact terminal goes into the male end of the X200 connector.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

This may help some. Start at step 16:








How-To: Add a Working Paddle Shift Steering Wheel


This is not the only thread on this subject, but I wrote this to clarify some misinformation and my procedure was a bit different, so I hope you do not get upset with me for posting this. Robert Overview: This idea started one day when I read a Sonic Forum post about adding paddle shifters...




www.cruzetalk.com


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

Got it to work with the new wire/pins. I finally have a backup camera. lol Terminals #13575773 snapped right in,


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