# 2013 Cruze Drivers side Transmission drive axle seal is leaking.



## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Is your car beyond the 5yr/100k powertrain warranty?
This would be a covered repair.

There is a retaining ring that holds the c/v housing into the trans.....you gently pry between it and the case and it just pops out.
The retainer ring (a spring steel wire) will remain attached to the axle stub and when you re-insert you can feel the ring re-engage and the axle will once again be retained......not much force is required to reseat at assembly.

Rob


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Chevy has a TBS on this:

# 15-00-89-004A: Information Regarding the Differences Between Leakage and Seepage - (May 22, 2015)

Can be seepage from an upper component, looking like a seal leakage problem. Replacing a seal is not easy, vehicle blocked up, wheel removed, brake caliper removed and hung safely away, Don't forget the ABS plug.

Rotor, lower ball joint broken free, 185 ft-lbs on the axle shaft, have to have means to keep it from turning, impact wrench is nice to have. Then in road salt areas, that hub bearing will be frozen to the axle shaft splines, lot of guys gave up on this, helps to have a huge puller to push that axle in, but carefully, can wreck the hub bearing.

Strut assembly is moved out, on some vehicles, just remove the darn thing to free that side of the half axle. Other side is held in by a C-clip, and believe me, that slip in a lot easier than they snap out. Fluid from the transaxle will leak out, have a pan handy or a heck of a mess to clean out.

Drill a couple of holes, heck even four, use at least #12 sheet metal screws to evenly pry out the old seal, good to have a seal installing tool to put the new in in straight, angle it, will wreck it. Like a nice coat of RTV so he outer ring doesn't leak.

Would say, not a job for the timid, my boys and their friend tried it, and yelled DAD!!!

If you wreck the boot on the ball joint, have to replace the entire control arm on this thing.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

That TSB isn't exactly new for us guys that been around the block a couple of times. A leak can leave a very light trace on the block but due to capilary action, gathers at the lowest point. 

Their way of doing it is to clean the suspected area, choke and carb cleaner is good for this,run the engine for 15 minutes and stare at it.

For us old timers, a definite difference in taste between engine oil, AT fluild, coolant, brake fluid, 90W lube oil. Use a taste test, then spit it out and say yuk of something that rhymes with it. 

If it is the seal, good to get a can of PB blaster and try to spray it in those tight joints, that spline into the hub bearing. Even for a couple of days.

Is this an AT or an MT, Cruze has both, least for now. Was an oil change done recently, if not done correctly, easy to spill engine oil from that canister type filter holder. Sure in an awkward spot. Are saying this leakage is black.

Screwing around with a single outlet size combination fan and lamp dimmer, between two studs so can't install a dual wide box. Old one was 30 years old, but made in the USA. Just tried three new ones, made in China, took all three back, talk about crap, and not exactly cheap at 30 bucks each. Ended up repairing the old Made in the USA one, working fine again.


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