# oil/filter



## xczar (May 19, 2013)

I am a new owner of a 2013 CRUZE ECO. Bought it for the MPG`s and as it turned out, it seems to be a very nice car. For many years I have always done my own maintenance, and after spending over an hour on the internet, have not fully determined where the oil filter is. I`m used to just doing everything from under the car without lifting it, but I`m guessing not with this car. I always have used Amsoil oils and filters in all of my vehicles. They do not even have a oil filter listed for this car. And from what I can tell the oil has to be a dexos1 grade.

Hate to ask newbie/dumb questions but:

- Where is the oil filter? - Access from top maybe? (I saw a picture on the net of a canister in the car for a paper filter?)

- Where to buy these oil filters? Other than GM, are there better ones? (Strange Amsoil does not offer one, and I think Mobil 1 does not either)

- Any tips on getting to it easily?

- I keep on hand Mobil 1 and Castol full Syn. Both supposedly on GM`s Dexos 1 list. Mobil 1 mentions Dexos, but Castrol does not? Do other compatible oils not mention Dexos on the bottle?

- No mention of break in period for the oil in the manual. I guess GM is recommending the first oil change is at 7,500 as per my manual? Strange. What mileage are others changing for the first time?

Nice little car. Hope everyone has great luck with it. Ride safe...............

- Is there anything with GM that prohibits self maintenance for the warranty?


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## Monath (Apr 20, 2013)

xczar said:


> I am a new owner of a 2013 CRUZE ECO. Bought it for the MPG`s and as it turned out, it seems to be a very nice car. For many years I have always done my own maintenance, and after spending over an hour on the internet, have not fully determined where the oil filter is. I`m used to just doing everything from under the car without lifting it, but I`m guessing not with this car. I always have used Amsoil oils and filters in all of my vehicles. They do not even have a oil filter listed for this car. And from what I can tell the oil has to be a dexos1 grade.
> 
> Hate to ask newbie/dumb questions but:
> 
> ...


If you're looking at the engine, look on the front right, it will be that canister. You will need a socket and extension that work. It will just be the paper filter like you're manual says. I buy my filters from Wal-Mart. (Pretty sure it was a FRAM, when I did it at 7500 miles. I used Castrol full synthetic 5W-30. After the first 3 oil changes I'm gonna drop down to changing it every 5k miles. Hope that helps you out!

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## Monath (Apr 20, 2013)

Oh, and it will be the silver canister with black plastic top if that helps anymore.

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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> - No mention of break in period for the oil in the manual. I guess GM is recommending the first oil change is at 7,500 as per my manual? Strange. What mileage are others changing for the first time?


 The factory fill is AC Delco DEXOS1 semi synthetic. Myself and others have changed way earlier than 7500 mi. One member has had his factory fill analyzed and it was shot by 5000 miles. Many here are using full synthetic such as Mobil 1 and it is good for 7 to 8k miles. AC Delco filters are good and as was mentioned it is a canister type filter - 24 millimeter socket will remove. Torque spec is on both the filer cap and the oil pan by the drain plug (10mm) - be careful to not over torque the filter cap or the drain plug. You could crack the filter cap or strip the head on the drain plug.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

If you have the 1.8 the filter is on the front right takes a 22mm socket to get off and the oil plug is a T45 torx. If you have the 1.4, the filter is still a 22mm and still on the right front but kinda hidden my some "plumbing" by the battery. Oil plug 10 mm.
If you go with the Fram filter it is CH10246. AC Delco *PF2257G Wix *57674. Same filter for either engine. There are a some how tos for oil changing if you need help.


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

You can get the AC Delco(OEM) oil filters (top notch quality imo) for dirt cheap on rockauto.com. They are $4.33 each plus shipping. Buy a few together and its really cheap. Avoid FRAM filters. They have been poor oil filters for years now. Im changing my factory fill oil at 3000 mi. After break in, most people who have had their oil analyzed recommend no more than 8-9k on quality dexos 1 full synthetics like Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1. No more than 5k on the AC Delco synthetic blend the dealers use. For warranty purposes, it would be a good idea to keep all of your oil and oil filter purchase receipts.


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

After looking at several filters I decided to run a WIX filter and I changed out the break-in oil at 2,500 miles and sent it to blackstone and second the motion to not run 7K miles on it. Filled it with Amsoil signature seires oil.
Mainly run WIX or Fleetgaurd on my trucks.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Kind of stupid with the 1.4L as opposed to the older 2.2 L engines, oil filter is still on the front, but in the 2.2 L engines that cold intake manifold is also in the front. With the 1.4L engine, that red hot turbo and exhaust system is in the front. A leaky cap or improperly installed cap without a properly installed new and oiled O-ring will pour oil directly on that red hot turbo.

So what was their cure for this? To butcher up that under engine panel. I sill can't believe this! Waiting to read about another engine fire with hot oil poured on that turbo with a butchered up under cover.

Another bit of pure BS is that the Cruze uses only the paper cartridge filter, econimical and environmentally friendly. But when you go to buy one locally, cost 2-3 times as much as the old fashion tin can types. Another thing I do not like when paying someone to change your oil, you have no idea if that old filter was changed or not, and believe me, you can run across crooks on this issue. Only sure way is to do it yourself, and get a six point socket, a 12 point can tear up that plastic. Also use an analog type torque wrench.

Also used rockauto to get genuine Delco at the best price, need some ammunition if you run into warranty problems. And did switch to Mobil one, because the only brand that has that green dexos label on that. Cut that out and staple that to that Delco lid writing down the date, mileage, and oil remaining life. It's not because I was born paranoid, made that way.

First time I changed oil on my Cruze, was pretty sloppy, spilled four drops, but cleaned that up. Second time, removed the filler cap first then the pan drain plug. While killing time, spayed all those rubber suspension joints with silicone, suppose to do that with each oil change. Idiots at shops state oil and lubrication, but have the weird idea, if your car doesn't have zerk fittings, it doesn't need lube. But still charging you for lubrication.

Then I just loosen the oil filter cap and let that drain, give that a couple of minutes, hold a paper towel on the left side of the filter housing, then pull out that cartridge, will come out with the cap and won't spill a drop. Also clean out the inside of that housing.

If you want to do it right, have to do it yourself. And you know exactly what kind of filter and oil is in there. And you know everything is properly torqued and clean when you leave it. You also run the engine and check for any possible leaks.


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## jrd48 (Mar 8, 2013)

Patman said:


> If you have the 1.8 the filter is on the front right takes a 22mm socket to get off and the oil plug is a T45 torx. If you have the 1.4, the filter is still a 22mm and still on the right front but kinda hidden my some "plumbing" by the battery. Oil plug 10 mm.
> If you go with the Fram filter it is CH10246. AC Delco *PF2257G Wix *57674. Same filter for either engine. There are a some how tos for oil changing if you need help.


Actually on my 2013 1.4 the filter nut is 24mm. A 15/16" will also work. Make sure you use 6 point sockets in either case especially on the drain plug.


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

Amsoil Signature Series ASL 5w-30 IS Dexos 1 approved!
I also use WIX filters.


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

5W-30 (ASL): API SN (Resource Conserving), SM…; ILSAC GF-5, GF-4…; ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1; Ford WSS-M2C946-A, WSS-M2C929-A; Chrysler MS-6395; GM dexos1™ (supersedes LL-A-025, 6094M and 4718M) Fortified with detergents that exceed dexos1™ sulfated ash specifications.



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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

jrd48 said:


> Actually on my 2013 1.4 the filter nut is 24mm. A 15/16" will also work. Make sure you use 6 point sockets in either case especially on the drain plug.


Mine is also 24 mm on the filter, that makes two of us, should we take a poll? Drain plug is a 10 mm hex.


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

Well I suck out my oil from the dip stick hole and I'm running the HENGST oil filter part # E611H D122 and 5w40 Fuchs fully synthetic oil , best stuff they make on the market it's not gm approve stuff but that's what BMW and Mercedes and Porsche uses factory so it should be good for are little chevy motors  


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

So you're out of specification as well as recommended weight... Sounds good to me, lol


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

Their no difference it's all the same 


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

5w40 is a better grade and it's still in the 5w viscosity so won't hurt anything and it's better for the turbo 


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

5w-40 is a 40 weight that flows like a 5 at 0* it's a 40 at operating temp ~200*
5w-30 is a 30 weight that flows like a 5 at 0* it's a 30 at operating temp ~200*

Using a 40 may not "hurt" but it is thicker at operating temp than 30. Thicker means less flow and more heat build-up...


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

Might be a good Idea if you live in Texas or Arizona, but there is a reason they put in the manual to use 5w-30 only. At operating temp your thicker oil is flowing through the turbo slower than the 30, so it's probably running hotter than it needs too


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

Well u want that's for turbo they generate more heat then a n/a motor u know 


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

I think Chevy may have taken the turbo into consideration when they specified a proper oil weight...


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

Well it's Gona be fine 


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## Hyfee66elco (May 7, 2013)

I agree that "it's gonna be fine" but its not gonna be better!


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

Well I drive my car pretty hard so prob better having that oil in their 


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

40 weight oil offers no added protection over 30 weight oil. Any good synthetic has a high heat rating but using a thicker oil could mean you are effecting oil flow rates and causing more wear. Can the oil pump keep the same pressure with thicker oil? will it last as long? 

If your worried about the oil not handling the heat of your driving style why not just change the oil more frequently? Feel free to run whatever you like, but don't expect it to have any positive effect.


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## Greasemonkey2012 (Jul 8, 2012)

Idc what i run that's what my shop keep in stock so it's works I was running the 
Acdelco stuff so this stuff is better then that


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Viscosity of 5W-30 was never as thin as true 5W oil, not as thick as 30W, we live in a world of BS. The drop from 10W to 5W is suppose to give us better fuel economy, but not a single word about which neck of the woods you live in. 

Then we are only talking about the first few minutes of driving, with current EPA regulations, that operating temperature has to be the same whether its -40*F outside or 130*F. In the early days with only fixed weights available, still could start your car in sub-zero weather with 40W in it, but was a tad bit more difficult.

Cruze manual states to use 5W-30 and that is what I use for warranty considerations. And only for warranty considerations.


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## Diesel Dan (May 18, 2013)

NickD said:


> In the early days with only fixed weights available, still could start your car in sub-zero weather with 40W in it, but was a tad bit more difficult.


A TAD more difficult?
I lived in NW Wisconsin for a few years and seen -30*F like you. Running conventional 15w-40 in my Diesels and not only did they start hard they did not sound good either. Takes way too long to build oil pressure for the low end to quiet down let alone the valve train get proper lube. The ONLY thing some of the older oils had on the new multi weights was ZDDP for flat tappet cams.

GM quit recommending 10w-40(gas engines) back in the '80s IIRC. The service bulletin I remember stated they found extra oil coking in the ring lands verses 10w-30.


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## Erastimus (Feb 9, 2012)

At 3000 miles, I switched to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-20 in my 1.8Liter LS engine. More power because of less friction and better mileage (because of less friction) when not standing on the gas all the time and IMMEDIATE oil pressure to the main bearings when starting on a very cold morning. I challenge anyone to tell me the down side of using 0W-20 in a non-turbo engine. First one to tell me it doesn't meet dexos1 and thus voids the warranty will be completely ignored. Gotta do better than that.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

Helped my uncle farm for several years with a couple of diesel tractors. Only way to start those things in subzero weather is to take them to bed with you.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Erastimus said:


> At 3000 miles, I switched to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-20 in my 1.8Liter LS engine. More power because of less friction and better mileage (because of less friction) when not standing on the gas all the time and IMMEDIATE oil pressure to the main bearings when starting on a very cold morning. I challenge anyone to tell me the down side of using 0W-20 in a non-turbo engine.


GM does say you can use 0W 30 oil in the winter to help with cold starts, but running an oil that does not ever get up to the recommended 30 weight might also mean less protection of engine parts once the engine is fully warmed up. Like I said to the other guy run whatever you like but don't expect the outcome to be positive. 

There is nothing to gain running too thin or thick oil. why not just run the reccommend 5w 30 or if you feel the need 0w 30?


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## BowtieGuy (Jan 4, 2013)

spacedout said:


> There is nothing to gain running too thin or thick oil. why not just run the reccommend 5w 30 or if you feel the need 0w 30?


+1 on this. Don't expect your GM powertrain warranty to cover repairs when they find out you were using the wrong weight oil. Its just not worth the risk of using anything other than what GM engineers have specced the car for; 5W-30.


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## Notso4eign (Dec 22, 2012)

I did my first oil change at 1.5k, then again at 5k. I plan to change my oil every 5k, using Pennzoil Platinum and the ACDelco filter.


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## Erastimus (Feb 9, 2012)

Anybody know what oil is used in NASCAR Sprint Cup engines? Answer - 0W-5. For the same reasons I use 0W-20.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

5w-40 is fine. Nothing bad will happen by using an oil 10 thicker and it does maintain its properties better than a 30 weight at high temps. 

0w-20 is probably fine in the 1.8 and would be great for Canada. However, I would never run it in the 1.4 - it doesn't do well under high temp stress.


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## xczar (May 19, 2013)

Thanks to all you folks in steering me in the right direction. I will be buying a bunch of AC Delco filters from RockAuto soon as I have purchased from them before for various things. Yeah, they have good pricing. I settled for a Purilator filter as that is all that was available for the car from Advance Auto Parts. One thing that thru me off was the filter was near the top. I`m used to them being near the bottom. Had me baffled for a while when I was following all the posted directions. Just got done changing the oil at 2100 miles. Looked like 2100 mile oil (go figure?/sarcasm). But the filter looked kinda dirty, might have been the color of the paper? If they start out white, like my new Purolator, then it was very dirty. My next oil change I fugure I`d do at the recommended 7500 mark. Then stick to their schedule after that.

Oil buying tip:

Advance Auto Parts always has cheap deals for high grad synthetic oils. Mobile 1, Castrol, Pennsoil, etc.... In the upper $20`s to the mid $30`s for 5 quarts, plus a high grade filter. I got Mobile 1 (Extended Performance) plus a Mobil 1 filter for $36. Only thing was our filter is not available from Mobil 1. So took another filter for my `97 Yukon and bought a Cruze filter seperate.

Thanks again folks




Monath said:


> Oh, and it will be the silver canister with black plastic top if that helps anymore.
> 
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## Erastimus (Feb 9, 2012)

Tip for the X - Czar on how to find things under the hood, fix things, etc. -- Go to youtube and do a search. For instance, search for "how to change the oil filter on a Chevy Cruze." Shazaam! Whoops, there it is!!


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## xczar (May 19, 2013)

Geez, ............. why even need CruzeTalk?

Actually, I have a very slow connection. Verizon wireless. One day when I can afford a Lexus and high speed connection, I`ll be sure to check out UTube more often. Of course when all the wonderfull things Obama has done to the economy kick in.




Erastimus said:


> Tip for the X - Czar on how to find things under the hood, fix things, etc. -- Go to youtube and do a search. For instance, search for "how to change the oil filter on a Chevy Cruze." Shazaam! Whoops, there it is!!


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