# Powerloss, no electric brake assist, wet/driving in rain. Electric issue? Bad ground?



## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

The wet conditions make me think that water has gotten into a connector somewhere. I'd disconnect the battery and pull and inspect connectors. Perhaps starting with the engine computer, which on the Gen1 is right next to the battery.

I wouldn't worry about the brake peddle until the engine issue is resolved. The engine is the primary source of vacuum. The pump may not be able to completely make up for it.


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## Lazer (Feb 14, 2016)

Replace your grounding cables


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Hmm...the brake assist is run from a mechanical vacuum pump run off the camshaft. SHOULDNT have the pedal go hard as long as the engine's running. 

These pumps have been known to fail on the Gen 2, and would explain the cam/crank correlation codes as well. But the car wouldn't just magically recover afterwards.

That said, if the ABS/wheel speed sensors are freaking out from a bad ground connection, that could cause the ABS system to freak out and pulse the pump repeatedly.


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## hardbrocklife (6 d ago)

Thank you all for the replies. I took it to the #1 shop in town and spoke to the mechanic. One of your older, modest mechanics thats probably pretty sharp. I was less concerned about this being a nightmare when he said:

"Some people will just look a fact sheet to troubleshoot electrical issues. Im a bit old school and prefer to look at the entire electrical diagram so I can see the entire system when Im troubleshooting."

Guy gave me the same vibe that my day jobs master diesel technician turn master one pass trencher mechanic gives off.The kind of guy that wants to solve the problem instead of play parts roulette. Thorough and attentive to detail, and isnt going to burn through hundreds of dollars of parts and labor without solving the problem.



jblackburn said:


> Hmm...the brake assist is run from a mechanical vacuum pump run off the camshaft. SHOULDNT have the pedal go hard as long as the engine's running.
> 
> These pumps have been known to fail on the Gen 2, and would explain the cam/crank correlation codes as well. But the car wouldn't just magically recover afterwards.
> 
> That said, if the ABS/wheel speed sensors are freaking out from a bad ground connection, that could cause the ABS system to freak out and pulse the pump repeatedly.


*jblackburn, *I thought these cars had an electrically driven vacuum assitance pump that helped generate vacuum? Due to the mechanically driven pump not being able to create enough sustained vacuum or because the turbo or something?

Ill continue to reply to this thread as people respond and/or the shop notifies me of changes. They let me drop it off today incase they get time to look at it, but technically they dont have openings for appointments till 1/18/23.The two-edged sword of having work done by a reputable shop.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

> *@jblackburn, *I thought these cars had an electrically driven vacuum assitance pump that helped generate vacuum? Due to the mechanically driven pump not being able to create enough sustained vacuum or because the turbo or something?


The Gen 1's did, and it was a source of a large recall for them when the microswitches failed. Gen 2 pumps are driven by the end of the exhaust camshaft on drivers side of the motor. It's what's quite buzzy on a cold morning until the engine warms up. It's a somewhat common design on newer GDI motors, although some companies like VW have been using them for 10+ years.


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## hardbrocklife (6 d ago)

jblackburn said:


> The Gen 1's did, and it was a source of a large recall for them when the microswitches failed. Gen 2 pumps are driven by the end of the exhaust camshaft on drivers side of the motor. It's what's quite buzzy on a cold morning until the engine warms up. It's a somewhat common design on newer GDI motors, although some companies like VW have been using them for 10+ years.


Thank you for the explanation.

This is obviously speculative, but are you have the mind its is Vacuum pump fails -> Engine Powerloss or Electrical Issues -> Engine Powerloss -> Weakened Vacuum Pump function? 

It will be a few days before they are likely able to look at it, and would not mind if I called to add things to their notes they have on file. They actually prefer more notes.


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## hardbrocklife (6 d ago)

So, the shop just called and said the vacuum pump has definitely failed, and they are going to replace it and see if that resolves the problem. Hopefully it does, and it hasnt ripped the "tangs" of the cam shaft or cause further engine damage. I wonder who thought it was a good idea to place a 60$ part that organically fails over time in a position to destroy a cam shaft when it fails.

Ford Tempo that was given to me with 100k+ miles that lasted for years with nothing but general maintenance performed.

1st gen Cavalier engine failed at 95k miles. Lost compression in I think the forth cylinder.

1st gen Cruze had nightmare grounding issues the entire life of the vehicle. Basically sold it for parts before 120k.

2000 Jetta TDI had 250K miles on it before it bit the dust. Just had more money than time so I bought my current Cruze.

3rd gen Ford Taurus purchased for 1200$ with 150k miles lasted to 275k miles with nothing but general maintenance performed.

This Cruze will likely need a major engine repair at 71k miles due to engineering design.

As a memeber of a "General Motors Family", I think this is my last GM car purchase for my lifetime. GM cars do not seem to live much past their warranty. All non-GM vehicles went their lifetime of ownership without needing engine repairs. After having listed out my experiences with the vehicles I have owned, this will be my last general motors purchase. Even my dads 2013 Silverado needed engine work within the first 60k miles due the DOD oil consumption issue. A GM vehicle out of warranty just isnt worth the risk.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

hardbrocklife said:


> As a memeber of a "General Motors Family", I think this is my last GM car purchase for my lifetime. GM cars do not seem to live much past their warranty. All non-GM vehicles went their lifetime of ownership without needing engine repairs. After having listed out my experiences with the vehicles I have owned, this will be my last general motors purchase. Even my dads 2013 Silverado needed engine work within the first 60k miles due the DOD oil consumption issue. A GM vehicle out of warranty just isnt worth the risk.


I hearing that Honda wasn't what it once was.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Yep, makes sense!

This will likely be the only “major” repair you ever end up having to do. The pump has been redesigned, but generally the LE2 engines have been extremely reliable in GMs lineup.


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