# Problem with dash display and sound after a jump start



## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Looks like it might have gotten damaged from low or high voltage. Since you needed a jump, have your checked to see if your battery is good or replaced it?


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## Stuke00 (Nov 24, 2015)

The battery died because my wife was sitting in the car without it started. It should be in good shape, it is less than 5 years old.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

Stuke00 said:


> The battery died because my wife was sitting in the car without it started. It should be in good shape, it is less than 5 years old.


It very well could be on it's way out. They can fail in as little as 3 years.

I'd suggest disconnecting the battery for awhile and reconnect it. Give the systems a chance to reboot completely.

How did you jump start the car? From a battery pack or from another car? The latter is probably a bad idea for a car as computerized as a Cruze. Electrical junk from the other car could come over and mess with the Cruze's system.


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## Stuke00 (Nov 24, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> It very well could be on it's way out. They can fail in as little as 3 years.
> 
> I'd suggest disconnecting the battery for awhile and reconnect it. Give the systems a chance to reboot completely.
> 
> How did you jump start the car? From a battery pack or from another car? The latter is probably a bad idea for a car as computerized as a Cruze. Electrical junk from the other car could come over and mess with the Cruze's system.


It was jumped from another car.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

There has been numerous people who needed a new battery in 2-3 years with the cruze, so I would also make sure yours is still in good shape. If you run the battery dead enough the car won't start, there's a change you damaged the battery as well.


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## Stuke00 (Nov 24, 2015)

spacedout said:


> There has been numerous people who needed a new battery in 2-3 years with the cruze, so I would also make sure yours is still in good shape. If you run the battery dead enough the car won't start, there's a change you damaged the battery as well.


Would a bad battery make the screen look like that tho?


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Stuke00 said:


> Would a bad battery make the screen look like that tho?


Electronics need power to run, if the systems are not getting proper voltage, anything is possible.


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## Slammed2014Eco (Feb 13, 2014)

Stuke00 said:


> Would a bad battery make the screen look like that tho?


Good possibility


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Your screen isn't getting enough power to keep the sync signal working properly. Replace the battery.


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## jjngundam (Dec 7, 2010)

I needed to get a jump twice in the last week. Had mine for 5 + years now. The battery looks new with no corrosion but don't be deceived as they don't hold the charge much after 5 years.


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## _MerF_ (Mar 24, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> How did you jump start the car? From a battery pack or from another car? The latter is probably a bad idea for a car as computerized as a Cruze. Electrical junk from the other car could come over and mess with the Cruze's system.


Do you have any evidence to back this up? Ive never heard of this, and from a basic understanding of the electrical systems I have a hard time believing this would be true.


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## Snappa (Mar 31, 2013)

There is nothing wrong with your display. You have one of the very limited "The Matrix" trim level Cruzen produced by GM. Lol


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

_MerF_ said:


> Do you have any evidence to back this up? Ive never heard of this, and from a basic understanding of the electrical systems I have a hard time believing this would be true.


If I still had my '67, I'd offer to come by and jump start you and see what happens. Remember, it's voltage regulator is just a chattering relay. But then "on board electronics" was just a AM radio (with massive filtering on the power leads). 

That's an extreme example, but food for thought. What happens if the other car has a bad charging system? Are you willing to risk your car for a jump? OTOH, a battery pack is just a battery pack. No issues there. 

From what I've observed, I think the professionals use battery packs. They may not want to risk their truck if the customer's car has a problem.


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## _MerF_ (Mar 24, 2015)

Oh, I gotcha. Still, once the dead car has enough charge to turn over and start, you would immediately disconnect anyway...so while they are connected the "host" car is simply supplying 12VDC (more or less) to the battery at a few amperes of current. 

Im not arguing that there is some merit to your suggestion, just that I would not jump right to that conclusion myself.


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## TheMaterial (Sep 5, 2012)

_MerF_ said:


> Do you have any evidence to back this up? Ive never heard of this, and from a basic understanding of the electrical systems I have a hard time believing this would be true.


A car is hundreds if not thousands of little computers each running on very precise voltage and currents. When you boost your car your basically creating an inrush of current and voltage, any added current or voltage to such a precise electrical system could cause damage. 

There's a reason the pros now use booster packs that have circuit protecting tech in them, and not the old school way with jumper cables.


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## Cruzncannada (Nov 21, 2015)

I'd wonder who jumped it, if you reverse the polarity a whole bunch of funny things can happen from not starting, blowing the main fuse, to blowing individual computers or the radio.
most auto parts stores will test batteries for free hoping you'll buy one? But simple test to see if it was jumped backwards put a bolt meter on if you see "-12.8" or whatever VoLTE is in there they jumped backwards.

but as far as this don't use a car and booster cables, if you know what your doing there's no harm to be done, yes it's a rush of amps and VoLTS but no more (generally) then your own car would produce itself, and it goes to the battery which is fuse protected from the car.


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## _MerF_ (Mar 24, 2015)

TheMaterial said:


> A car is hundreds if not thousands of little computers each running on very precise voltage and currents. When you boost your car your basically creating an inrush of current and voltage, any added current or voltage to such a precise electrical system could cause damage.
> 
> There's a reason the pros now use booster packs that have circuit protecting tech in them, and not the old school way with jumper cables.


Your alternator doesn't charge at an exact 12VDC. It varies wildly, and the electronics are designed for that. "Booster packs", if that's a portable charging pack, I believe the main appeal to that would simply be that it's portable. So you can jump yourself.


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## TheMaterial (Sep 5, 2012)

_MerF_ said:


> Your alternator doesn't charge at an exact 12VDC. It varies wildly, and the electronics are designed for that. "Booster packs", if that's a portable charging pack, I believe the main appeal to that would simply be that it's portable. So you can jump yourself.


"When you boost your car your basically creating an inrush of current and voltage, any added current or voltage to such a precise electrical system could cause damage." You alternator does not create a large inrush of voltage. 

Honestly you can do whatever you like with your car. But personally, I am about to graduate with a degree in electronics, so I have some experience with this, and I personally will not risk it.


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## Stuke00 (Nov 24, 2015)

I took it in to have it looked at and was told the screen was bad. It had to get sent off to get replaced and reprogrammed by the dealer. There wasn't any output from the screen. I am looking into just replacing the radio with an aftermarket once since that would be much cheaper. I hope this will bring back my sounds if I remove that screen from the system.


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## Spyder918 (Apr 13, 2016)

Hi, I am having a similar issue after jumping my 7 month old battery. My question is - When you say to disconnect the battery for a while then reconnect: about how long is a while? and when I change batteries I have a 12V backup supplied through the DTC. Should I energize the computers through the DTC for the reset you are recommending? 
Also, i thought I read some some back about a reset sequence for the Body Control Module but haven't been able to find it this time. Are you aware of it??

P.S. I have just replaced the 7 month old Walmart/Johnson Controls battery

Thanks, Rick


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'd just disconnect the battery. As long as the driver's door is closed when reconnecting, the only annoyance of the lost power is you're prompted to roll the window down and back up. Even the radio station presets are kept. If you keep things powered, you're not rebooting.

As for how long, I'd say a couple of minutes.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

I'd just disconnect the battery. As long as the driver's door is closed when reconnecting, the only annoyance of the lost power is you're prompted to roll the window down and back up. Even the radio station presets are kept. If you keep things powered, you're not rebooting.

If you don't follow my advice to keep the door closed, you may be greeted with a power steering failure message. If that happens, just close the door and try again.

As for how long, I'd say a couple of minutes.


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