# Supercharging the 1.8L and 2012 Cruze LS restoration



## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So welcome to my build log, this is sort of a build log slash restoration log, I'll make a list of things I want to do and things I've done. My goal is to restore this car as I can with better upgraded parts and eventually install a supercharger. I'm open to any and every comment or suggestions! I also want to thank all my sponsors, I really appreciate the support!










*A 2012 Chevrolet Cruze LS with 
2002 Mercedes C230 Kompressor supercharger*
*2006 Mini Cooper S bypass valve
2003-2009 Nissan 350Z CF intake vent
2019-2021 Mazda 6 front lip*
*what's next?*









*AEM Performance Electronics | Aftermarket Performance Parts*









*FIVE8 INDUSTRIES - READY. SET. LOWER.*









*EZ Lip: Universal Spoiler Lip Kits | Stick-on Front Splitters*









*DIP OUTLET | Canada's source for Plasti Dip*



*All underlined items are hyperlinked to the post showing it.*​*General things done*

K&N Intake
New NGK Iridium plugs
Cruze big 3 kit
Tuned with HPTuners MPVI2 (added launch control and changed redline)
CDV Delete (want to do the accumulator too eventually)
*EZLip Pro*
Universal spoiler
Debadged
Chrome delete
Restored ECO wheels (2nd post)
New summer tires, Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, 235/50ZR17
*Five8 coilovers** (+sponsorship!) - **Five8 Industries Installation log*
Walker 24442 resonator, Totalflow 20015 Muffler 2.25" ID, Trubenz 2.25" OD aluminized
New shift boot and shift knob
*HyperDip wheels Bronze Gold*
Sylvania zXe H13 headlight bulbs and Yearly headlight restore
New fog lights and yellow wrap
Mazda 6 front lip (and install the EZLip pro on that)
Carbon fiber 350z bumper air vent
Upgraded front brakes with PowerStop Z23 kit (post 2)
Replace faulty rear wheel speed sensor
*General things done that have been replaced or removed*

Front bumper plastic bezel custom cutout for intake air (the blank bezel where the fog lights go)
Installed Chinese lowering springs
Second cat and muffler delete
*Things to do*

Bedline most of the underside of the car to prevent further rust (steel brush, rust inhibitor, then undercoat)
Install dual 3.5" double wall exhaust tips
Aluminium braze portions of the charge pipes together (budget TIG welding anyone?)
*Install Boost Gauge** (2nd post)*
*Install AFR Gauge*
Design and make SC mounting bracket
Design and make SC in/out ports plate (Part 1)
Design and make bracket for extra pulley
Cut out new gasket for the SC in/out port plate
Repair drivers side rocker panel (Post 2) (Post 3) (Post 4)
Repair rust above rear wheel well where the rear bumper mounts
Change transmission oil with the good AMSOIL stuff
Fix defrost
Change engine oil
Check toe alignment
Check headlight alignment
Check for exhaust leaks
*Things I'd like to do*

Light tint on rear windows
Swap to LEDs (everything but headlights)
Coolant flush
*Supercharger specific things to-do list | *Excel log : Supercharged Cruze

*[_] Air fuel ratio gauge - Sponsored by AEM Electronics*
[_] Mercedes gasket no. A 111 098 03 80 (will need to make my own, even the Mercedes dealership can't get it anymore) _(traced and cutting)_
[_] fuel regulator?
[_] serpentine belt_ (need to finalize design and see if I'll be using an extra pulley for more contact area)_
[_] custom designed brackets to fit the supercharger where the AC compressor is and have an extra tension pulley for more contact area
[_] custom in/out plate _(cheaper version of the creative spridgets one, maybe re-use part of the OEM one?)_
[_] injectors (maybe?)
[X] Charge piping (2.5") (2nd post)
[X] Design and make BOV to Bypass adapter and gasket for the adapter plate
*[X] **boost gauge - Sponsored by AEM Electronics* (2nd post)
[X] supercharger_ (Eaton M45 from 2002 Mercedes C230 Kompressor)_
[X] intercooler _(2.5" tubing variant)_
[X] Intake piping (_re-use K&N intake)_
[X] Cone filter (3") (_re-use K&N intake)_
[X] gauge pods, custom 3D printed (2" (52mm) single gauge pod. by oldmatedave)
[X] Charge tubing to mount BOV to adapt for bypass valve
[X] Mini Cooper S bypass valve
[X] 1.5" flexible radiator hose to plumb bypass tract.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

This will be original...


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Interesting...what is your plan for the intake manifold/intercooling?


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

The clutched variation ?? or is this a standard pully ???


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Little photo dump. She sits lowered right now on springs with K&N intake.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Mr_Pat said:


> The clutched variation ?? or is this a standard pully ???


Standard pulley. 



MP81 said:


> Interesting...what is your plan for the intake manifold/intercooling?


Won't be mounted on the intake manifold and will be intercooler much like a turbo.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

landrystephane92 said:


> Standard pulley.
> 
> 
> 
> Won't be mounted on the intake manifold and will be intercooler much like a turbo.


What brand of springs or coilovers do you have?


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> Won't be mounted on the intake manifold and will be intercooler much like a turbo.


So you're saying it would be something like this, that I have seen on a Subaru years back:


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

MP81 said:


> So you're saying it would be something like this, that I have seen on a Subaru years back:


woah


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

not too wise ..mounted to the chassis while the motor moves ?? Looks like he's going similair route to what we did with my buds del sol though we were using the 63 case I think it was .. definately going to be a fun build to watch


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Mr_Pat said:


> not too wise ..mounted to the chassis while the motor moves ?? Looks like he's going similair route to what we did with my buds del sol though we were using the 63 case I think it was .. definately going to be a fun build to watch


I'm not sure if it is or not - I _think_ that's just the output of the blower going into the piping that feeds down and around to the intercooler...if it's mounted to that...that's even scarier. I think I see some bracketry there that holds it in place to the engine, though with all the tension from the belt, you best hope it's some **** beefy stuff.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Mr_Pat said:


> not too wise ..mounted to the chassis while the motor moves ?? Looks like he's going similair route to what we did with my buds del sol though we were using the 63 case I think it was .. definately going to be a fun build to watch


The way mine will be mounted it'll be to the motor where the AC compressor usually sits. It was probably an Eaton M62, like the Cobalt SS SC


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

We used the mercedes charger but the variation was clutched. We had it on several different honda motors back in 2000 ish lol .. It couldn t keep up with the 18 GSR motor at the upper rpms.. but your not spinning your motor up to almost 8500 

Old Video my bud did after we had initially figured it all out . again 20 years ago lol so forgive the grphics. You have the right plan in my opinion if your putting it where the ac comp was easiest location to work at .


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Mr_Pat said:


> We used the mercedes charger but the variation was clutched. We had it on several different honda motors back in 2000 ish lol .. It couldn t keep up with the 18 GSR motor at the upper rpms.. but your not spinning your motor up to almost 8500
> 
> Old Video my bud did after we had initially figured it all out . again 20 years ago lol so forgive the grphics. You have the right plan in my opinion if your putting it where the ac comp was easiest location to work at .


I'm hoping to design a plate bent in an L shape to serve as both the mount that I'd first mount to the engine, then I'd mount the supercharger to, to then have the ports for in and out of the supercharger itself, but I'm not against having them separate. I really like the creative spridgets one, but it's just too expensive for what it'd cost to make just a plate and two pipes.

I just need to finish figuring out the pulley for the supercharger itself, to see if the stock one is OK or if I need to have one made. I found this video that's very straight forward that'll serve me for this. (1) How to Size a Supercharger Pulley - YouTube


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

Lookin forward to seeing your build progress..


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Mr_Pat said:


> Lookin forward to seeing your build progress..


Thanks, me too lol


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

landrystephane92 said:


> That's right, you read that right. I'll be updating the OP a bit more later, but here goes nothing!
> 
> Eaton M45 from a Mercedes will be used
> 
> ...


Seems like a fun project. Take a lot of pics and make a decent write up of what you did. Only thing I can’t agree on in the placement of your gauges. Someone out there makes an “A pillar” with built in gauges.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Mr_Pat said:


> We used the mercedes charger but the variation was clutched. We had it on several different honda motors back in 2000 ish lol .. It couldn t keep up with the 18 GSR motor at the upper rpms.. but your not spinning your motor up to almost 8500
> 
> Old Video my bud did after we had initially figured it all out . again 20 years ago lol so forgive the grphics. You have the right plan in my opinion if your putting it where the ac comp was easiest location to work at .


I have been asking people for years why we couldn't set up a switchable SC using some form of AC clutch and here it has been possible all along...sproing!!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Maqcro1 said:


> Seems like a fun project. Take a lot of pics and make a decent write up of what you did. Only thing I can’t agree on in the placement of your gauges. Someone out there makes an “A pillar” with built in gauges.


ZZP does:









Cruze Dual Gauge Pillar Pod


A gauge pillar pod. Material is the same as stock.The color matches your stock pillar and has the same texture. Not spray painted like other designs and also not a generic black ABS like other gauge pod manufacturers have.




zzperformance.com


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> ZZP does:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


ZZP gauge pillars FTW - perfect match to the factory grain and color. I have theirs in my Cobalt and it looks factory (if factory came with three gauges instead of just one).


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Difference is this costs me zero dollars versus almost 200 CAD to my door.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

landrystephane92 said:


> Difference is this costs me zero dollars versus almost 200 CAD to my door.


But it's so pretty.  $200 is alot though for a pillar.


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## F18D4T (Sep 24, 2020)

Keen to see this progress, I'm in the FI 1.8 gang and never even considered a SC simply due to the lack of space.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Supercharger go WEEEEEE


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## Crewz (Jul 12, 2011)

Welcome to the 1.8 boosted club! Looking forward to how this unfolds.
Hard to tell from the under the hood pictures, but what trans are you running?
How much psi of boost? Might need to upgrade the valve springs and retainers if going over 8 psi. I can shoot you a link to what works with our heads.
I'd go with the AEMX Wideband. They come with a OBDII plug that communicates with HP Tuners so you can log lambda / AFR. Make tuning a breeze as you can copy and paste error and adjust.
For a fuel regulator, be sure to get a boost reference regulator so it increase fuel psi as boost goes up, but if you're keeping the boost low, which it seems like that's the case here with the 42# injectors, you might not need a regulator at all. These cars run at 58psi. At 8 psi with 10 psi spikes, the stock fuel system held up fine even on e85 with 60# injectors.

Good luck and it'll be cool seeing a SC 1.8.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

think you guys are due for an update!

Bought the hp tuners MPVI2 yesterday, which is a good part of the build project! Can't wait to learn how to tune!

Also, I don't plan on going over 10 psi for the time being, if so, I'll upgrade to a M62 supercharger instead as the M45 won't do much more efficiently than that.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

landrystephane92 said:


> think you guys are due for an update!
> 
> Bought the hp tuners MPVI2 yesterday, which is a good part of the build project! Can't wait to learn how to tune!
> 
> Also, I don't plan on going over 10 psi for the time being, if so, I'll upgrade to a M62 supercharger instead as the M45 won't do much more efficiently than that.


Did you ever go forward with this project?


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Cool pod location , personally I like my zzp side mount I found on all my cars the middle blocks my driving view and I don’t like it but that’s a clean install I like how you counter sunk them a bit


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So, this project is still underway, I just had other priorities. To summarize what I've done since my last post is that I get some new tires, cleaned my ECO wheels and sealed them (takes about 3 hours per wheel, no joke). I have three wheels done and I'm starting the third tonight. I had previously removed just the "front" side of the wheel's plastidip (I bought these used plastidipped already btw). With the tires done, I brought them to the garage to have them removed to restore them to as close to new as possible. The only plastidip left is a tiny bit in the valve stem base and in the lug nut holes bottom inner edge.

Tires are 235/50ZR17 Continental ExtremeContact DWS06, should fill in that wheel well just fine! Can't wait to get them mounted, anyways, here's a few pictures


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

updated the OP quite a bit.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Here is a better before and after of the restoring of these ECO wheels.


Here is the condition I got them in. Plastidipped with edges peeling, this was the one in the best shape too. At least they looked in good shape underneath.











Removing the top layer of plastidip with WD40 and an old gift card.










First side done and the top layer is all I would do during the first summer. The tires were only good for one last summer season so I was gonna have the tires removed and restore them entirely.










As you can see, the inner rim was still entirely plastidipped at that point, but at least we could see these beautiful polished forged wheels.










Back from the garage with the bare wheels, time to freshen up!











With a better view now of what has to be done, I got to work.


















Then after the first wheel done, quite drastic as far as change goes if you ask me.

























*What I had to remove*

Rubber from the tire seats
Corrosion in the tire seats radius
Rubber and dirt on the outer rim
Plastidip from the interior rim
Two sided tape/glue from the previous wheel balancing weights
Thick dirt above the plastidip
*What I used*

SOS pads (one per wheel)
Two sided sponge (one per wheel)
Disposable wooden chop sticks (one per wheel)
Fingernails
Pine Sol
Nu Finish "Polish"
Goo Gone (used around half a bottle total as I put some in the bin mixture to help aid removal of gunk)
Plastic knife
Water
Plastic bin (the large transparent storage ones)
Shower

*Process to restore*

Take the entire wheel to a good hot shower (as hot as I could go) to clean debris
Took a big plastic bin filled about two inches of hot water and pine sol, then took a two sided sponge to remove as much as possible of the outer rim
Used an SOS pad for what was left on the outer rim
Manually peel the inside rim plastidip as much as I could, near the hub it was "soggy" with contamination from brake dust and heat likely
SOS pad to removed gunked up plastidip
SOS pad to remove the corrosion/metal rust from the back of the hub
Goo Gone soaking for those weight glue/tape
Plastic knife to remove the weight crap
SOS pad to remove the plastidip inside the stamped lettering
Disposable chop stick to better reach those hard to reach corners (around the valve stem for example)
Wash the entire wheel again in a hot shower
Wipe down with paper towels 
Sealed with two coats of Nu Finish "Polish"


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

*Last wheel progress*


Take the entire wheel to a good hot shower (as hot as I could go) to clean debris
Took a big plastic bin filled about two inches of hot water and pine sol, then took a two sided sponge to remove as much as possible of the outer rim
Used an SOS pad for what was left on the outer rim
Manually peel the inside rim plastidip as much as I could, near the hub it was "soggy" with contamination from brake dust and heat likely
SOS pad to removed gunked up plastidip
SOS pad to remove the corrosion/metal rust from the back of the hub
Goo Gone soaking for those weight glue/tape
Plastic knife to remove the weight crap
SOS pad to remove the plastidip inside the stamped lettering
Disposable chop stick to better reach those hard to reach corners (around the valve stem for example)
Wash the entire wheel again in a hot shower
Wipe down with paper towels
Sealed with two coats of Nu Finish "Polish"


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Done!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Ordered some 75W-90 Amsoil to change the transmission fluid when I get a chance!


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## JerryHail (11 mo ago)

landrystephane92 said:


> Done!
> 
> View attachment 295896
> 
> ...


Great job!! I like it. When do you plan to complete your project and what is the budget?


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

JerryHail said:


> Great job!! I like it. When do you plan to complete your project and what is the budget?


A project is never truely done, so as I can afford new pieces of the build (think of it like buying pieces of a puzzle as you go). As far as budget goes, I don't really have a budget in mind, I have a lot of things I want to do with the car, but usually buy stuff every month.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Had my tire installed on the wheels yesterday. They're thicc!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I wonder how my wife will react tonight when I bring a tire on the kitchen table for a photoshoot lol

I'll let you guys take guesses


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I did my first revision for the bracket, I sent it off to get a quote to see how much they'd charge me for it. AC is where the AC mounts to and SC is where the Supercharger will mount. It will need 30mm tube spacers to be between the supercharger itself and the plate, maybe a bit more to clear the bolt heads from the AC mount. I went with 1/2" plate, but might go down to 3/8".

Now, I'm going to 3D print a few of these beforehand until I get the final design just right. I've also been email quite a few salvage yards to see if they have superchargers, I'm trying to get one for like $150 CAD shipped!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

And this is why you don't cheap out on aftermarket stuff boys and girls.


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## SlyCruze (Sep 20, 2013)

What brand were those ?


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

SlyCruze said:


> What brand were those ?


No name Chinese springs I believe, I bought these used last summer. I think they're the $99 set you can find on eBay. They're just red without any marking.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I just realized that my car has the Watts suspension in the rear, that's quite surprising for a 2012 LS model


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

landrystephane92 said:


> And this is why you don't cheap out on aftermarket stuff boys and girls.
> 
> View attachment 296138


THIS MAN SPEAKETH THE TRUTH!

But there are always those who don't even consider high quality parts because: "Why pay more when you could pay less?"

You get what you pay for....


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

JLL said:


> THIS MAN SPEAKETH THE TRUTH!
> 
> But there are always those who don't even consider high quality parts because: "Why pay more when you could pay less?"
> 
> You get what you pay for....


I bought these used and they lasted less than a year, Five8's incoming though.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So I ended up buying two new aftermarket end links just to find out the kit fron Five8 comes with adjustable sway bar end links. smh.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Coilovers arriving today! :O Hoping to at least start to install stuff tonight!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

When I changed to lowering springs last summer, I already changed the whole front strut assembly along with the rest springs. Basically the only thing I have not done yet is the rear shock top portion removal, which shouldn't be much of an issue.

I also have a set of OEM front struts with lowering springs and a set of OEM front struts with OEM springs. I'll be disassembling the OEM set to get the top mount off to install on the coil overs tonight while I take some time to fix my exhaust. I'll also likely be installing at least the rear passenger springs/perch because I'm still riding on that broken lowering spring held together with a bunch of stainless tie-wraps.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So I installed the rear passenger side spring and sorta guessed the height and was dead on with the height of the lowering springs that had broken! 

I'm gonna be prepping my stuff and start installing the rest Friday. Question for you guys, is there a spot in the center of the front and center of the rear that would let me raise both sides at the same time then place a jack?


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Installed the back and as expected, one side is higher than the other with the same adjusted height. 

Passenger side is half an inch higher, so I'll have to adjust that one night this week.

I would've started the front, but I still need to get those hats (strut mount) off. I'm gonna go to the garage tomorrow and ask them to just disassemble my stock strut and then install the hat on the coilovers. I also installed my summer wheels (all season tires). 

Also I think fitment is really good for stock wheels.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Soooooooo, welp I was using the cars scissor jack to do stuff on it and it finally gave in, shoving the rear quarter panel in about a good inch or so. Used my wife's Caravan scissor jack to re-raise the car and remove the one included. Went straight to the bin with the broken lowering coil spring. I knew I had to redo my driver's side rocker panel, but sheesh. Few well place soft kicks and it's back in place though.

Now, I went on a bit of a shopping spree these last few weeks. Bought a few parts for the supercharger portion too.


2.5" charge pipe with Type RS BOV adapter flange
eBay shift knob (round gloss purple)
2.5 ton jack
pair of jack stands
ScratchesHappen kit (the big one)
Torque wrench
Adapter sockets (cause my 3/8" drive decided to die and I have to go swap it at the store for a new one)
15/16" wrench for the strut disassembly to take the top strut mounts which I call hats
Tires for the wife's Caravan (Khumo Sense KR26 in 225/65R17)


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Get some nice pinch weld adapters for the jack and jack stands so you don't bend the ever loving **** out of them.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

MP81 said:


> Get some nice pinch weld adapters for the jack and jack stands so you don't bend the ever loving **** out of them.


The whole drivers side pinch welds are done for, so I'm no longer lifting it from those anyways I lift on the frame body rails.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

AAAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNDDDDDDDDD I just ordered the supercharger from a salvage lot.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Also ordered some new top front strut mounts because I came to realize my old ones don't want to come out AND they're quite worn.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So I just had a chat with the guys as DipOutlet.ca and they'll be sending me a hyperdip kit to make my wheels bronze gold! can't wait!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> Installed the back and as expected, one side is higher than the other with the same adjusted height.
> 
> Passenger side is half an inch higher, so I'll have to adjust that one night this week.
> 
> ...


Is that a rust through hole already? That will be the first one I personally have seen so far if it is.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> So I just had a chat with the guys as DipOutlet.ca and they'll be sending me a hyperdip kit to make my wheels bronze gold! can't wait!


Speaking of wheels, too bad you weren't a bit closer, I'd pay you to do a set for me, that is as soon as I locate a set of ECO rims anyways.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Blasirl said:


> Is that a rust through hole already? That will be the first one I personally have seen so far if it is.


Yup, it's the only "real" rust on the car (the rocker panel is from improper lifting of the car).

I'm going to be going over all of the rust during the course of the summer and spring and addressing it. Hope to give a good coat of bedliner under the car too progressively.



Blasirl said:


> Speaking of wheels, too bad you weren't a bit closer, I'd pay you to do a set for me, that is as soon as I locate a set of ECO rims anyways.


I love plastidipping stuff. I got really lucky to find these wheels tbh, it just so happened I was browsing a sonic/cruze group from the province and the guy posted those with lowering springs for sale, I bought them on the spot. Tires had one summer left in them, but for $250-300 CAD, meh! Springs on the other hand, wheren't the best investement 🙃


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> Yup, it's the only "real" rust on the car (the rocker panel is from improper lifting of the car).
> 
> I'm going to be going over all of the rust during the course of the summer and spring and addressing it. Hope to give a good coat of bedliner under the car too progressively.
> 
> ...


I just want a shiney set myself. I have about 10 cans of plasti-dip, but have stopped using it as I don't seem to have the best luck with it.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Blasirl said:


> I just want a shiney set myself. I have about 10 cans of plasti-dip, but have stopped using it as I don't seem to have the best luck with it.


Plastidip has it's learning curve for sure, I'm excited to try out hyperdip instead, seems it's quite different from plastidip, it's thinner and less viscous, so more like paint as opposed to heavy layers with plastidip.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> Plastidip has it's learning curve for sure, I'm excited to try out hyperdip instead, seems it's quite different from plastidip, it's thinner and less viscous, so more like paint as opposed to heavy layers with plastidip.


You will need a pretty big tub to be able to dip a rim into it and some strong arms.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

I've actually found PlastiDip to be one of the _easiest_ "paints" to work with, assuming it's not too cold. It's always laid down incredibly evenly for me - just don't go _too_ heavy on the coats if you have things taped.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Blasirl said:


> You will need a pretty big tub to be able to dip a rim into it and some strong arms.


hyperdip, not hydro dip 🙃


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I just posted my excel spread sheet I use to keep track of everything and how I calculated approximate output

Supercharger Excel log : Supercharged Cruze


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Socials lit up this weekend, but slowly this build is coming together.

In shipping currently:

new top strut mounts
sponsored hyperdip wheel kit
boost gauge
bypass valve
intercooler
Oh and this just arrived.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

landrystephane92 said:


> Socials lit up this weekend, but slowly this build is coming together.
> 
> In shipping currently:
> 
> ...


What's your game plan for making that thing work?


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

JLL said:


> What's your game plan for making that thing work?


I'll be making an adapter plate (already made a prototype drawing) to adapt the AC Compressor bolt pattern to this superchargers bolt pattern. Since I didn't have AC to begin with, I'm saving having to delete the AC system! I posted the excel spread sheet, check in the second tab, there's a bunch of pictures I use for reference and they show quite well.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

landrystephane92 said:


> I'll be making an adapter plate (already made a prototype drawing) to adapt the AC Compressor bolt pattern to this superchargers bolt pattern. Since I didn't have AC to begin with, I'm saving having to delete the AC system! I posted the excel spread sheet, check in the second tab, there's a bunch of pictures I use for reference and they show quite well.


I saw in your spread sheet that you need some 40+ lbs injectors? I'm actually upgrading from 465cc (~ 43 lbs) Deatschwerks injectors to 650 cc (~ 60lb) injector. The have about 5,000 miles on them. If you would like to buy them they are yours. I'll even throw in the OEM fuel rail if you want it. PM me if interested. I'll accept any reasonable offer.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

JLL said:


> I saw in your spread sheet that you need some 40+ lbs injectors? I'm actually upgrading from 465cc (~ 43 lbs) Deatschwerks injectors to 650 cc (~ 60lb) injector. The have about 5,000 miles on them. If you would like to buy them they are yours. I'll even throw in the OEM fuel rail if you want it. PM me if interested. I'll accept any reasonable offer.


**** 1.8L not being able to take in those injectors lol


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Intercooler is here! I got a heck of a deal on it, I almost think it was a pricing error on Amazon lol I came to about $60 USD to my door, shipped and sold by Amazon 🙃


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Supposed to get my wheel dip kit today! Too bad weather isn't good enough to dip though


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

huge order this morning, universal charge pipe kit, new resonator, muffler and stuff to cut and clamps, exhaust tip, tubing for the bypass valve, some gloves, metal brushes to clean the supercharger, etc.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Got my new shift knob yesterday, boost gauge arriving today, as well as new muffler, resonator and the bypass valve.

ordered some aluminium zinc brazing bars, bondo fiberglass repair kit, bondo body filler, rust reformer, dremel cut and grinding wheels, carbon fiber duct, gasket sheets, idler pulley, undercoating, torch tip, brushes and gloves.

I already have a full scratcheshappen kit with my color paint in it and will order more paint cans if needed, got to go get some propane tanks and expanding foam now.

Oh and gave her a good rinse, with my doggo.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So yesterday I installed my new resonator, sounds way better, can't wait to install my muffler too! 

I got my bypass valve too (from a 2006 mini Cooper S), it's so small and cute haha

I went ahead and designed a plate to be able to mount it to the Type RS BOV mount charge pipe section. I'll probably am gonna 3D print it, or I could cut it out of thick acrylic I have here too.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So here's what I have to adapt. I would go with the creative spridgets plate, but shipped with duties it comes to almost 120$ for something I can make myself. First I'll be making it from quarter inch plexi see how it turns out. Oh and you can see the Dayco radiator hose I will be using for the bypass tract on the right of the picture.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Adapter mostly done, just a bit of sanding left.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Ordered M8x1.25 bolts, nuts, lock washers and regular washers along with an aluminium plate and tubing to make shims for the supercharger. So far I think I'm gonna make it out under $2k CAD!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I put in a lot of work yesteday night to fit the exhaust parts I have better, lowered the car and in my tired self, I had routed the exhaust between the z-link and the cross member to which it attaches to, so it did not clear with the coilovers. I raged a bit let's just say.

On another note, I took the stock intake casted tubing and cut it to prepare it to braze some plate to it to create the inlet and outlet for the supercharger itself.

Next big step is taking measurements from the mounting points off the AC mount, something I have not been able to find online. With these measurements I can then finish adapting it for the supercharger.

Hopefully this weekend, I get some time to work on it.

Big things coming in the coming weeks. Routing the charge pipe from the throttle body up to the intercooler and braze some sections where possible. Mounting the supercharger (make the bracket). Finish my adapter plate for the boost gauge and AFR gauge off the template I made this weekend, then heat shape it to fit the trim.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So yesterday I finally was able to recover the flange portion of the cast intake piping from the Mercedes designed inlet/outlet for the supercharger to then aluminium braze my own plate and tubing. The red part is the shape of the flange that I took out from the original casting. I drilled probably a hundred holes around the flange then cut between each to recover it. Now I'll need to sand the surface flat enough to braze some plate on it to then make some holes to fit the 2.5" inlet and outlet tubings.

The picture below is not mine, but it shows both parts to give you an idea of what I did.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Laid out the rough routing for my charge piping this weekend! Shouldn't be too bad.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

So you're plumbing the roots supercharger through an air-to-air intercooler? Interesting...


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

MP81 said:


> So you're plumbing the roots supercharger through an air-to-air intercooler? Interesting...


exactly, I will be taking my stock K&N intake and putting it to intake duties from the supercharger inlet, the outlet will be routed from the supercharger, which is the AC compressor spot going between the exhaust manifold and radiator, then to the front mount intercooler, then to the throttle body. Between the intake portion and charge pipe portion, I will be adding the bypass valve, which works to releive load on the supercharger in low load scenarios. It basically references off the intake manifold, so as soon as there's some vaccum, it opens. The MAF sensor will be left on the intake portion and the bypass will be plumbed after the MAF so that all air remains metered.

It will be quite similar to how Miata's are supercharged, but with a different supercharger and placement and transverse mounted engine obviously.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Good stuff! I'm just used to the factory-style setups using a heat exchanger (like my Cobalt).


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

MP81 said:


> Good stuff! I'm just used to the factory-style setups using a heat exchanger (like my Cobalt).


I mean it could've been a way to do it, but it would've required way too much work on the intake side compared to having it this way.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> I mean it could've been a way to do it, but it would've required way too much work on the intake side compared to having it this way.


It'd be **** near impossible in all honesty. At least for this kind of engine.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

MP81 said:


> It'd be **** near impossible in all honesty. At least for this kind of engine.


yeah, with the lack of space, needing a custom fuel rail, evap purge having to be relocated and even then, I'm not sure there would be enough room.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> yeah, with the lack of space, needing a custom fuel rail, evap purge having to be relocated and even then, I'm not sure there would be enough room.


Yeah - the LSJ intake manifold is a _beast_, and I'd expect something similar would be needed for adequate cooling.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So after drilling and Dremel work, I was able to remove the flange portion of the casted portion of the tubing from the Mercedes. 

Now I need to make both sides flat, then make a plate to go over it to then braze that and two ends up bead rolled 2.5" tubing for it to be usable! 

I also started cutting the gasket for this yesterday in a Fel-Pro sheet. 

I didn't progress much this weekend as I was mostly cleaning my little workshop.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

So I ended up ordering some new rotors and pads today, because of lots of sitting for a few days at the time over the past 2+ years (working from home, etc) they've just **** the bed. I mean they're only making contact on the middle 50% basically, even though the pads are still 75%+. So, Powerstop Z23's it is. Also bought some red caliper paint and four red SS badges!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I started fabricating the plexi plate to go over the left middle vent to house two gauges, cut using a Dremel, then sanded the edges flat and chamfered the edges. When final, I will be painting it to match the dash trim or possibly wrapping as I have some high quality vinyl that is somewhat close to the silver. 

To mold I just used a heat gun to shape it to the trim.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

landrystephane92 said:


> I started fabricating the plexi plate to go over the left middle vent to house two gauges, cut using a Dremel, then sanded the edges flat and chamfered the edges. When final, I will be painting it to match the dash trim or possibly wrapping as I have some high quality vinyl that is somewhat close to the silver.
> 
> To mold I just used a heat gun to shape it to the trim.
> 
> ...


Nice work !!!


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> I put in a lot of work yesteday night to fit the exhaust parts I have better, lowered the car and in my tired self, I had routed the exhaust between the z-link and the cross member to which it attaches to, so it did not clear with the coilovers. I raged a bit let's just say.
> 
> On another note, I took the stock intake casted tubing and cut it to prepare it to braze some plate to it to create the inlet and outlet for the supercharger itself.
> 
> ...


Looking good so far. I am adding these references just in case you have not seen them:









Cruze Dual Gauge Pillar Pod


A gauge pillar pod. Material is the same as stock.The color matches your stock pillar and has the same texture. Not spray painted like other designs and also not a generic black ABS like other gauge pod manufacturers have.




zzperformance.com





I cannot find a link, but ones like this also exist:


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I'm not much of a buy and install guy, I'm more of a, if I can make it then I'm making it sort of guy. I also don't care for permanently modifying the car instead of adding parts I can later remove.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

landrystephane92 said:


> I'm not much of a buy and install guy, I'm more of a, if I can make it then I'm making it sort of guy. I also don't care for permanently modifying the car instead of adding parts I can later remove.


All are removeable and replaceable. You could 3d print the one with no link though.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Using the kit from DipOutlet, here's what I did over tue weekend! Still need to remove the dip from the lug nuts though. There was a whole lot of "trust the process" in my head using the dip release, but it's actually quite easy to use and works very well. I'd recommend using very wide masking tape roughly 1" from the wheel all around then use dip release in the section between the tape and the wheel, it would be best of both worlds. The only wheel I actually need to touch up slightly is my first wheel, which I masked off entirely and took more time than all other three wheels combined using dip release.

This is the exact kit I used : HyperDip Wheel Kit Canada


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Also ordered some headlight bulbs and DRL/fogs.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Started to tint and wrap the fog lights, the chrome will be gloss black and the LEDs yellow!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Re-restored the headlights and installed the new sylvania bulbs, kind of disappointed in the whiteness it promised. 

This McGuiar's restoration heavy duty kit works great. 

Passenger before, drivers after.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Saturday blues.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Looking good !


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Restored the headlights again for the summer, this is a yearly ritual now. Also installed the Sylvania H13 zXe bulbs, kind of disappointed they're not whiter though.


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

I am very impressed. Good job @landrystephane92 !


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Started cutting and planning the charge piping!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Started installing the Powers top Z23 kit. Got it on sale for 130 CAD!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Installed the first corner, basically it's one corner done. With the coil over upgrade, wheel upgrade and brake upgrade, looks great.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Did a bit of front bumper work. Fogs, air vent and lip installed.


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## Mr_Pat (Mar 7, 2021)

landrystephane92 said:


> So after drilling and Dremel work, I was able to remove the flange portion of the casted portion of the tubing from the Mercedes.
> 
> Now I need to make both sides flat, then make a plate to go over it to then braze that and two ends up bead rolled 2.5" tubing for it to be usable!
> 
> I also started cutting the gasket for this yesterday in a Fel-Pro sheet.


So I'm curious as to why you didn't use the already formed pieces from the charger intake and out let and adapt from there ?? Lesson learned when we did the Del Sol years ago. that housing was cast for better flow to and from the charger. if you go to a flat square to a straight 2.5 pipe your killing yourself on flow. I am glad to see your still coming along with this and hope to see it happen one day.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Mr_Pat said:


> So I'm curious as to why you didn't use the already formed pieces from the charger intake and out let and adapt from there ?? Lesson learned when we did the Del Sol years ago. that housing was cast for better flow to and from the charger. if you go to a flat square to a straight 2.5 pipe your killing yourself on flow. I am glad to see your still coming along with this and hope to see it happen one day.


The space restrictions I have because of the size of the stock part and where they were directed didn't really make sense for the routing I planned. That's what I wanted to do first, but it just wasn't a viable option for the application. However, I plan to not have it square and have it flow better than that, likely not as good as OEM, but close. 

On another note, brake job is done, not I would need to go break them in properly.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Started working on the rocker panel this weekend. Removed the quarter panel to see unseen areas where the rocker meets the body and quarter. Removed most of the loose rust and dirt, now I've started cutting where the Rust has thinned out the metal to the point its not able serve anymore. Once done I'll be spraying it with Rust converter and I will lay down and shape some mesh to mimic the shape of the rocker panel. Then apply more Rust converter and fill with expanding foam and shape it. Then it'll be bondo time, sanding, primer, paint and 2k clear.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

As long as the rust has only gotten through the outer-most panel, you should be good to do that. If it's into any of the inner panels - which are all high strength steel, then you'll need more intensive replacement to maintain the strength that joint provides.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

MP81 said:


> As long as the rust has only gotten through the outer-most panel, you should be good to do that. If it's into any of the inner panels - which are all high strength steel, then you'll need more intensive replacement to maintain the strength that joint provides.


That's what I checked first, the rust only goes through the non-structural part, the rest is in good shape thankfully.

I removed all the bad portion and rust converted it all. Tonight I'll be putting some mesh to help give it some structure and to help the foam expand better following the body lines.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I've been fiddling quite a bit lately in trying to figure out where to put my bypass valve tract and where the place my MAF. This is what I assume is correct, can anyone confirm?


Filter -> MAF -> Bypass return -> Supercharger -> Intercooler -> Bypass valve -> Throttle Body -> Intake Manifold


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

If I recall on my Cobalt, the bypass valve just dumps right into a passage into the intake manifold directly.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Is this what they mean with "trust the process". Kept as much as I possible could. re-rust converted once the heavy rince was done, foamed inside the cracks and holes, layed some mesh to give structure to the front and rear holes, sprayed more foam, then sprayed a third time more foam to make sure everything is sealed and built up enough.

Started rough trimming with a small hacksaw metal blade.

I'll be making myself a templace of the shape of it to help me make sure I remove just enough to cover with body filler.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Welp, finished my exhaust (minus the tips),








first start up with new exhaust







youtube.com





Also finished the body work, now I just need to put some primer, paint and clear. It's not perfect, but not too bad.


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

All primered and assembled!


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

Haven't been able to do much the last week, but here's a picture 😂


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## landrystephane92 (Jan 3, 2012)

I'll be honest with everyone, I was at a crossroad for a few weeks, keep it, sell it, junk it. I looked at used cars, I looked at new cars, I even looked at trading.

My conclusion, throw that car to a body shop, have it entirely redone to look new, redo the entire exhaust from head to end of tail pipe with new parts. Once it passes inspection again, put back the Five8 coilovers and enjoy the crap out of it for at least another 10 years!


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

What's the word ?


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Cruzing12 said:


> What's the word ?


The bird is the word!  

I'd like an update as well @landrystephane92


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Did we loose you @landrystephane92 ?


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## Cruzing12 (Oct 10, 2020)

Darn,

In the time since this thread I've come across electric superchargers, currently a DIY thing, but when thinking about less strain on the motor since there's nothing restricting the exhaust vs the motor having to make power to gain power


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## JLL (Sep 12, 2017)

Cruzing12 said:


> Darn,
> 
> In the time since this thread I've come across electric superchargers, currently a DIY thing, but when thinking about less strain on the motor since there's nothing restricting the exhaust vs the motor having to make power to gain power


An electric supercharger, that actually compresses air?

I gotta see that.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

JLL said:


> An electric supercharger, that actually compresses air?
> 
> I gotta see that.


They're relatively commonplace now in some of the German brands - but they're 48V so they actually do something. The 12V ones don't do anything at all other than make the alternator work harder.


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