# To replace spark plugs with new Iridium Spark Plug or to re gap the current sto ones.



## chaser x (Sep 3, 2012)

Is it cheaper just to buy Iridium Spark Plugs for better performance than to buy the tools to re gap them?


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

The engine comes with iridium plugs from the factory. Re-gap what you have instead of purchasing new ones that still need re-gapping.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

Also, the replacement iridium #*41-121 *plugs that you buy (either NGK or AC-Delco rebadged NGK) will come _pre_-gapped from the factory at *0.028"*...or, they're supposed to be.


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## mcg75 (Mar 5, 2012)

The plugs in the car should be just fine for at least 60k. 

I'd take them out, clean & regap them, put them back in.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

70AARCUDA said:


> Also, the replacement iridium #*41-121 *plugs that you buy (either NGK or AC-Delco rebadged NGK) will come _pre_-gapped from the factory at *0.028"*...or, they're supposed to be.


The "or, they're supposed to be" is the crux of the problem. After seeing the quality control of the plugs being installed in our cars at Lordstown I wouldn't trust the replacement plugs to be correctly gapped.


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## babymobilcruze (Aug 17, 2012)

chaser x said:


> Is it cheaper just to buy Iridium Spark Plugs for better performance than to buy the tools to re gap them?


If you aren't trolling and this is a serious question I'd leave it up to the professionals to turn the wrenches on your car.


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## Devilz (May 16, 2012)

As per my own experience with previous vehicles, iridium plugs don't make any difference. Its just a name to fool buyers to spend more money on something which is already there at cheaper price :growup:


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

...actually, iridium plugs are used to ensure long LIFE and reliable OPERATION for emissions requirements--they're NOT necessarily optimal for either performance (HP) or fuel economy (MPG).


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## chaser x (Sep 3, 2012)

Not a troll or trying to start crap i am figuring out what direction i want to go. I read many post as is about this subject still cant decide if i want to mess with my car or leave ii alone.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Devilz said:


> As per my own experience with previous vehicles, iridium plugs don't make any difference. Its just a name to fool buyers to spend more money on something which is already there at cheaper price :growup:


We have had a few members replace their iridium plugs with non-iridium plugs. Based on their reports, it appears the 1.4 EcoTec engine is designed to work best with iridium plugs.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

If you're that concerned and your car is running - leave it alone.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

I'm thinking at 52000 miles I'm going to replace my plugs. Anyway in 3rd gear about 4000 rpm I'm starting to get a little bit of a stumble. So I think it is time for spark plug replacement.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## aharnak (Feb 25, 2013)

Also, the tool to gap spark plugs usually costs less than a dollar. Any other tool that's involved would be required to change out the plugs with new ones anyway.


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## CruzeEcoBlueTopaz (Jan 5, 2012)

I first replaced my original plugs at 75k and they looked burnt but still in decent condition. I replaced my second set at 50k and they appeared to be fairly clean and in excellent condition. I still plan on replacing them every 50k the manual says every 60k. 

On a side note, a little off topic and I apologize but a similar car to the cruze the dodge dart 1.4L turbo requires the plugs to be replaced every 30k which leads me to believe it uses copper plugs.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

> On a side note, a little off topic and I apologize but a similar car to the cruze the dodge dart 1.4L turbo requires the plugs to be replaced every 30k which leads me to believe it uses copper plugs.


Copper plugs are pretty normal for boosted applications because they generate an extremely strong spark. However, manufacturers such as Chevy want to tote the "low maintenance" requirement of their turbocharged engines, so they chose to go with Iridium plugs at a pre-set gap that the manufacturer (NGK) failed to gap correctly for most 2011-2012 model year Cruzen.

My Cruze is running copper plugs (I was just trying to isolate another issue and have been too lazy to switch them back), and runs just fine. It's Platinum plugs that you never, ever want to use in a forced-induction engine.

It's the same thing as the crazy oil change intervals these days. Chevy/Toyota/Honda all tote 10,000-mi change intervals; BMW a 15,000-mi change interval. And...well...it sells cars. They'll (especially the BMWs) live for the warranty period on that sludged up oil, and THEN explode. 

Ever tried to back a spark plug out of an aluminum head after 100,000 miles? It's really not easy/pretty what can happen.


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## Blue Angel (Feb 18, 2011)

NYCruze2012 said:


> I'm thinking at 52000 miles I'm going to replace my plugs. Anyway in 3rd gear about 4000 rpm I'm starting to get a little bit of a stumble. So I think it is time for spark plug replacement.


Spark plug related problems (misfires) usually show up at lower RPM first. If you have something acting up at 4000 RPM it's _probably_ not the plugs.

To the OP, you can get a decent spark plug gapping tool for a couple of dollars. If you check your original plugs and the gap is still good and the car is running fine, replacing your plugs is a waste of time/money. If you check the gaps and they've opened up a bit from the specs and the plugs are not fouled or burnt, just set the gaps to spec and put them back in.

If you are unsure about any of this, just replace them at the factory recommended intervals... but check the gaps before putting them in (run them at the wide end of the spec, .028" or a little wider .030"). Unless you like experimenting, just stick with the factory iridium plugs. There will be no significant advantages to changing them for something else unless your car is significantly modified from stock.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

> Copper plugs are pretty normal for boosted applications because they generate an extremely strong spark.


 I had a 1984 944 Porsche that required silver Bosch spark plugs - now those must have really had a great spark.


> It's the same thing as the crazy oil change intervals these days. Chevy/Toyota/Honda all tote 10,000-mi change intervals; BMW a 15,000-mi change interval. And...well...it sells cars. They'll (especially the BMWs) live for the warranty period on that sludged up oil, and THEN explode.


 Agreed - my wife's 2012 CR-V calculated the first oil change at about 6500 miles, the next change looks like it will be calculated at somewhat more mileage than that. I know when I had a 2002 Mercedes C230K the standard Mobil One oil change was every 10k miles. I guess the Germans are stretching that even more now.


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## beeztee (Oct 24, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> It's Platinum plugs that you never, ever want to use in a forced-induction engine.


Why not used platinum plugs? My 2000 Jetta 1.8T turbo came factory with platinum, and I never had any spark issues in 250k kms. Car still runs fine too.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

beeztee said:


> Why not used platinum plugs? My 2000 Jetta 1.8T turbo came factory with platinum, and I never had any spark issues in 250k kms. Car still runs fine too.


http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-ch...ed-my-spark-plugs-only-16-000-miles-them.html


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-ch...ed-my-spark-plugs-only-16-000-miles-them.html


Ha, what idiot would clean their spark plugs with only 16K on them, sounds like me.

Guess you do need some tools to change and gap your plugs. Like a T-30 male Torx bit. A 5/8" spark plug socket, why are these still SAE, everything else is metric. I use a 12' extension because I don't like to bend over, especially if there is anyone from the government standing behind me. If new at it, a torque wrench is also advisable. Also good to grow a fingernail so you can release that coil pack plug without breaking it.

For materials, a can of Permatex anti-sieze compound to just put a very thin coating on the threads. This was some other idiot putting a steel plug in an aluminum hole. They never heard of electrolysis and since that base is a current conductor to the head, you do have electrolysis. On better equipment, like aircraft, use a stainless steel nut cast into the aluminum, so that isn't necessary. But not buying an expensive aircraft engine, more like a throwaway head. But both cost an arm and a leg. Anti-seize retards that, as does coating the inside of the booths with silicone grease, try and remove those boots with even 40 K on the vehicle, bake on hard and will break them in pieces.

Should only use a wire feeler gauge for gapping plugs. Apparently somebody was thinking ahead 50 years ago when I purchased mine. Does have a 0.028" wire on it. 

The ground electrode should be parallel to the center of the electroded, use forming tools on this. Did get into a discussion on a pro board, a mechanic said, just to bend it over, but apparently is knowledge on electrostatics is somewhat limited. Here we go again with bending over.


Also in the science of electrostatics, the edges of the electrodes should be perfectly square, rounded edges greatly increase the ionization voltage on the plugs putting severe stress on both the coil and electronics. This kind of sinks in after doing this for over 60 years. But does take awhile.

My miss was strictly when starting off in first gear, but can also happen at much higher rpm's. This is cause by poor seals between the ceramic insulator and steel based. If you didn't know this, both materials have substantially differences between the coefficients of expansion. Sure sign of problems is a brownish bead will form at the base of the ceramic. You have blowby that increases with speed, but not nearly as much at lower speeds. 

Spark plugs have been around for the last 120 or so years, ha, not very good with dates, especially for my wife's birthday and Valentines day, they change them everyday! But the construction, most of the materials haven't change that much, the BS sure has changed.

Actually Henry Ford had a better idea using a vibrator so you would get several milliseconds of a spark train in the Model T. but with the Kettering system, only get one spark and that is all you get. But the problem with that old mechanical vibrator was short contact life. Could use that today with the electronics we now have for a series of sparks, but the bean counters wouldn't let us do that. 

In theory at least, really can't improve on the ignition system provided you get that spark at the precise time. The big problem is getting that spark each and every time. Then there is carbon, a very good conductor.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

FWIW, NASA (and others) have looked into LASER ignition systems for gasoline engines. Zap a high-energy beam into the A/F mixture and poof, it's ignited.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Thanks alot just what I get to look forward to in about another 40,000.00 miles or so


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

70AARCUDA said:


> FWIW, NASA (and others) have looked into LASER ignition systems for gasoline engines. Zap a high-energy beam into the A/F mixture and poof, it's ignited.


Cool idea...til they turn into rogue Decepticons and destroy the world as we know it.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

70AARCUDA said:


> FWIW, NASA (and others) have looked into LASER ignition systems for gasoline engines. Zap a high-energy beam into the A/F mixture and poof, it's ignited.


We already looked into this, laser or microwaves, but next to worthless with carbon build up. That is the problem. Guess they are still trying to reinvent a broken wheel. 

Want a real challenge" Try and get our congress to try and remove that C out of HC's. Leads one to believe exactly who our congress is representing, certainly not, we the people.


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## mcg75 (Mar 5, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> Cool idea...til they turn into rogue Decepticons and destroy the world as we know it.


That's the only thing I hate about Decepticons. They always have to break **** and then vaporize you if you say anything to them about it.


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## 70AARCUDA (Nov 14, 2010)

mcg75 said:


> That's the only thing I hate about Decepticons. They always have to break **** and then vaporize you if you say anything to them about it.


...sorta like *petulant* kids...tell them not to _mishandle_ something and go out and _smash_ it to smithereens!


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