# Brake issues 2018 LT Need advice



## Charger (11 mo ago)

Was on a trip last weekend and noticed mileage was not as good as expected, car seemed to be struggling, but I chalked it up to the headwind that was pretty strong. On the way home we started hearing a rubbing sound that would be more prominent when turning the wheel slightly right and almost disappear when turning it slightly left. Then noticed that there was a grinding sound when applying the breaks. Also noticed a burning smell after stopping at intersections. I got to a large parking lot where I could get a good look at the wheels. I could see grooves worn into the rear rotors, which weren't there before we left, but the frons were still smooth. Touched the rear rims and they were noticeably warm. Check that the parking brake was not engaged, it wasn't. Pumped the petal a few times and did a hard stop to see if I could free the brakes up, not much effect. Started on again and the sound was still there and a bit louder. Came to the conclusion that my brakes pads were not able to travel freely. All I could think of was the salt, cold weather, brake dust, and faulty calipers or piston. Found the closest do-it-yourself car was and used high pressure on all 4 calipers. Seamed to help some and made it home. Parked car in garage overnight and it stayed there the next day, to keep it above freezing. Took it to work and things seemed ok at first but before I got there, long drive, I noticed the sound again when turning the steering wheel and applying the brakes. 

Took it to the dealer and then next day with my extended warranty and they performed a diagnostic. They said the rear rotors were shot from being scored and the pads were almost gone. I figured that much. The then showed pictures of the front brakes where the pads were virtually touching the rotor and worn more on the inside than outside.

They said the caliper was fine and the piston was performing normally but the pads were not moving freely. I asked if the piston pushes the pads against the rotors what pushes the pads off the rotors? The showed something they said was a little spring, not like a round spring more like a curved piece of metal. Is this correct? They claimed that the pads were not free in their travel and the resistance was more than the spring could overcome. Make sense?

Needless to say nothing they found was covered by the extended warranty. I ended up getting all new rotors and pads along with a brake fluid flush and fill. This was not inexpensive and came out of the blue at me.

What can be done to prevent this from happening again? I get the wheels rotated and brakes checked with every oil change. I drive primarily on the highway and do not abuse my brakes with short stops. There has to be something I can do short of removing the pads or disassembling the calipers.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

Charger said:


> what pushes the pads off the rotors? The showed something they said was a little spring, not like a round spring more like a curved piece of metal. Is this correct?


Partially correct. The springs help a bit, they are a modern addition to the brake system to pull the pads off the rotor just a bit to help eliminate any incidental pad rubbing to increase mpgs. The real work of retracting the piston is done through the design of the piston seal, after pressure is released it pops the piston back just a bit. Don't expect all techs to be geniuses. 



Charger said:


> What can be done to prevent this from happening again? I get the wheels rotated and brakes checked with every oil change.


Checking something doesn't change what it is. Most places only go by the pad thickness, 3mm remaining is a pretty common spec.

What almost certainly happened is the rust built up under the "brake hardware" (this is a bad name, I would call them brake pads guides). This build up pinched the pads impeding there free movement.



Charger said:


> There has to be something I can do short of removing the pads or disassembling the calipers.


Nope, there really isn't.

If the shop did a good job you won't have to worry about anything brake related for at least 50k.
They "should" have cleaned and lubed the area under the brake hardware, this should prevent rust build up in the future. Sadly I'm not aware of any car that comes from the factory with properly lubed brakes. And without some lube in the right places brake components will rust enough to cause issues, especially if the brake hardware isn't stainless steel.

FWIW learn to work on disc brakes, they are actually very easy to understand. Not to mention it is so hard to find a good car shop.


----------



## Charger (11 mo ago)

Thanks for the info. I may have to learn to work on disc brakes.


----------



## Johnny B (Jun 4, 2019)

NP


----------

