# Sticky  Cruze Battery Upgrade Options



## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I had this discussion with bartonmd on the FB group earlier today and he provided a few options for battery replacement upgrades over what we have from GM. As you guys may know, the 1.8/1.4T battery tray is adjustable and has plenty of room left for a bigger battery. 

Here are the specs for the *OEM *H5/47 group size, from an AutoCraft Gold battery:

*H5/47:*
520 Cold cranking amps
7.5" Height
9.57" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 45 lbs
Price: $161.99

The following two group sizes fit in our battery trays. Here are the specs I found for the Advance Auto AutoCraft Platinum AGM battery. I strongly recommend any AGM battery. I've posted the differences over the OEM battery (assuming the AutoCraft Gold is equivalent or similar) in bolded green. The CCA specs and prices will vary slightly but not by a whole lot. 

*H6/48: *
760 Cold cranking amps *(+240 CCA = +46%)*
7.5" Height
11" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 45.66lbs *(+0.66lbs = +1.5%)*
Price: $174.99 *(+$13 = +8%)*

*H7/94R: *
850 CCA *(+330 CCA = +63%)*
7.5" Height
12.44" Length
6.938" Width
Weight: 51.83lbs *(+6.83lbs = +15%)*
Price: $187.99 *(+$26 = +16%)*


Here is what the OEM H5 battery looks like in the battery tray:









Here is what the H6/48 battery looks like in the battery tray:









Here's a picture of the H7/94R battery in the Cruze:










Remember, if you have an Advance Auto Parts store near by, there is almost always a 30% coupon available that will knock $50 off the price of a battery. Order online to pick up in store.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

What impact will a larger battery have on our variable output alternators?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

obermd said:


> What impact will a larger battery have on our variable output alternators?


None. The system will still charge based on the voltage of the battery. 

bartonmd did note however that his car started faster with the H6 AGM battery than it ever did with the OEM battery.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Thanks - my battery is starting to show early signs of wearing out. My voltage sits at 14.7-15+ for longer and longer even with the same external temperatures.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

I Just looked into a purchase from Advance Auto Parts and at present there is a 15 % discount online and a $50.00 coupon being offered . 

I have almost 4 years on this OEM Batterry at present Maybe I can push it until 5 years .


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

obermd said:


> Thanks - my battery is starting to show early signs of wearing out. My voltage sits at 14.7-15+ for longer and longer even with the same external temperatures.


Mine was exhibiting this behaviour last fall, but since I kept and have still been using the delco battery in a different application, I'm not sure it was the battery. I did however find the ground by the headlight loose when I swapped the battery, might be worth a check. 

Happy I replaced it though, would not have wanted to mess around with the possibility of a bad battery with winter coming! I agree with Xtreme, AGM battery is the way to go. I bought a Sears Diehard Advanced gold AGM(group 47) which claims 600CCA. Believe the group 48 Sears AGM is 700CCA, If I had known this was an option when I bought mine I would have.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

The Cruze diesel battery fits all Cruze's.
I believe it is a 850cca........fills the entire battery tray.

Rob


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

I've had real good experiences with the Sears Diehard batteries. Just have to tell the salesperson I want the biggest battery that will fit.


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## FlintCruze (Feb 27, 2014)

Diehard and AutoZone's DuraLast batteries are manufactured by the same company. IIRC there are only like 3 manufacturers that produce the majority of the NA batteries available for sale, just diff labels slapped on them.


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

brian v said:


> I Just looked into a purchase from Advance Auto Parts and at present there is a 15 % discount online and a $50.00 coupon being offered .
> 
> I have almost 4 years on this OEM Batterry at present Maybe I can push it until 5 years .


Can't stack them Brian. Looks like I'll wait for a rebate offering plus the $50 off. I got my wifes battery that way last year and it was only like $85 AR.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Robby said:


> The Cruze diesel battery fits all Cruze's.
> I believe it is a 850cca........fills the entire battery tray.
> 
> Rob


I believe that is the H7/94R that I posted. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

FlintCruze said:


> Diehard and AutoZone's DuraLast batteries are manufactured by the same company. IIRC there are only like 3 manufacturers that produce the majority of the NA batteries available for sale, just diff labels slapped on them.



This is true, however some manufactures pay for the ones that test better. When I was around 20 years old I worked at a factory making shop vacs for sears and home depot, the sears branded ones the electric motor had to test above a certain level, all of those below that were put on the Ridgid branded ones. 

I could have bought a duracell battery at Sams Club that was identical to the sears battery for much less money, but knowing the above I chose to spend the money on the name brand. Both even have the same warranty. 

Duracell AGM Automotive Battery - Group Size 47 (H5) - Sam's Club

Sears.com


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

XtremeRevolution said:


> *H7/94R: *
> 850 CCA *(+330 CCA = +63%)*
> 7.5" Height
> 12.44" Length
> ...





XtremeRevolution said:


> I believe that is the H7/94R that I posted. Please correct me if I'm wrong.


Here's a photo of the Diesel OEM battery, which I think is the H7/94R as mentioned above:


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

revjpeterson said:


> Here's a photo of the Diesel OEM battery, which I think is the H7/94R as mentioned above:
> 
> View attachment 117794


That appears to be a perfect fit!


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Thats the one!

And if you have a good eye, you can see the smaller number set beginning with 94R.

Fits like a glove.....

Rob


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## bulldog (Aug 2, 2014)

So I want to get a new battery either today or tomorrow. My choices are Diehard Advanced Gold or a Duralast Platinum in a 94r and both are the same price. I guess my quesitons is, one better than the other? Autozone is a mile away but Sears is about 20 and I don't care to drive. Thoughts?


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Bit of a update....looked at Diesel Cruze 94R yesterday.......Delco CCA rating 730amps.

Also, this is a 'AGM' design.....uh.....uh.....brain fade.....darnit!

Can't remember what the bloomin 'A' stands for......anyways, the rest is for Glass Mat.......one of you geniuses will have to pipe in....old age sucks at times....this is one of those times.
Big time energy release capability.......must really give that high compression diesel quite a boot the moment the starter engages.

Rob


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## dhpnet (Mar 2, 2014)

This may be a dumb question, considering it's obviously a larger battery. So, the larger battery will give you more cold cranking amps, but does that also mean that you get more amp hours. For example, can I listen to the radio longer with the engine off without worrying about killing the battery as quickly?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

dhpnet said:


> This may be a dumb question, considering it's obviously a larger battery. So, the larger battery will give you more cold cranking amps, but does that also mean that you get more amp hours. For example, can I listen to the radio longer with the engine off without worrying about killing the battery as quickly?


That is correct, and AGM batteries are typically much better for deep cycling as well, so if you do drain your battery a fair amount, it won't reduce its life like it will a regular battery.


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## bulldog (Aug 2, 2014)

I put a Duralast Platinum AGM by East Penn in my 13' ECO today. Fit like a glove, no mod's required.


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## Tomko (Jun 1, 2013)

Robby said:


> Bit of a update....looked at Diesel Cruze 94R yesterday.......Delco CCA rating 730amps.
> 
> Also, this is a 'AGM' design.....uh.....uh.....brain fade.....darnit!
> 
> ...


*A*danced *G*lass *​M*at


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## billyhime (Mar 17, 2012)

So I have a question, I installed the Technostalgia LED tail lights in my car. Every now and then I noticed that all the lights aren't turning on. I will have to turn the car off and back on and they all start to work. Could a bigger battery help me in this case? Here is a link to my problem


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Tomko said:


> *A*danced *G*lass *​M*at


Thanks for the memory jolt Tomko!

Rob


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

billyhime said:


> So I have a question, I installed the Technostalgia LED tail lights in my car. Every now and then I noticed that all the lights aren't turning on. I will have to turn the car off and back on and they all start to work. Could a bigger battery help me in this case? Here is a link to my problem


Not a battery issue.....there's something going on with the lamps themselves.
Can you contact the supplier???? I think they will provide better direction.

Rob


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## billyhime (Mar 17, 2012)

Robby said:


> Not a battery issue.....there's something going on with the lamps themselves.
> Can you contact the supplier???? I think they will provide better direction.
> 
> Rob


I emailed them about two months ago and no response. Sent them another email after I posted this for some guidance. Its very weird


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

billyhime said:


> I emailed them about two months ago and no response. Sent them another email after I posted this for some guidance. Its very weird


Email is too easy to ignore......this Q deserves a phone call.

Rob


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## billyhime (Mar 17, 2012)

Robby said:


> Email is too easy to ignore......this Q deserves a phone call.
> 
> Rob


I'm being stationed in SC, have a house in NC near where the location of this business is. Thought I'd drop by ;-)


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

billyhime said:


> I'm being stationed in SC, have a house in NC near where the location of this business is. Thought I'd drop by ;-)
> 
> 
> Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Best option yet!

Keep in touch.

Rob


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## rcclockman (Jan 16, 2012)

Tomko said:


> *A*danced *G*lass *​M*at


WRONG! its Absorbed Glass MAt...


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

When installing one of these larger batteries, do you have to take the 2 or 3 positive wires off the curcuit block that is ontop of the positive side of the battery?

Rather than removal of just the two battery terminals and sliding the battery forward and then lifting up (with a small battery), I would assume that everything would have to be clear for a straight upward lift for one of these bigger models? Is there an easier way to do it, rather than disconnecting what could become an electrical issue in the future?

The 1.4L cables are long enough to position for the big diesel battery?

It's cold outside in Minnesota, and this is on my list, and I tend to open more of a can of worms than I have to! 

Thanks-


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## bulldog (Aug 2, 2014)

1. No, you don't unhook anything other than the positive battery cable on the positive side.

2. I slide it in from the front just fine. I had my wife hold up the positive side thing while I slide it in. 

3. The negative cable needs no mods. You can unhook your own and move it to see. It has to be moved out of the way when you slide it out anyway, so it's way longer than it needs to be anyway.

4. The positive side stays in the exact same place, so it isn't extended or anything.

5. Just put the new one in the same way you took the old one out, easiest upgrade out there next to putting a go fast sticker on your car.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks Bulldog!

I don't have an Advance near me, but we do have Sears and Mills Fleet Farm pretty close. (That's a farm supply store in Minnesota and Wisconsin.) I'm going to keep my eye out for black friday deals on this one. I was googling this about a year ago, and it looked like a H7 would fit, but at that time nobody had tried it. Glad to see it works. 

My local Walmart and Sams, have no returns on batteries once purchased unless defective, and Walmart actually mentioned they may void the warranty for a battery not installed in the appropriate vehicle.

Those of us doing this ourselfs understand what we're doing, and understand how this battery tray works. It appears that some places will only install and warranty the battery that's listed in the book. If you're ever asked what car did this come out of, you can always say the "diesel version".

Anything to not consider paying on the warranty. Crazyness


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## revjpeterson (Oct 2, 2013)

carbon02 said:


> we do have Sears and Mills Fleet Farm pretty close. (That's a farm supply store in Minnesota and Wisconsin.)
> 
> My local Walmart and Sams, have no returns on batteries once purchased unless defective, and Walmart actually mentioned they may void the warranty for a battery not installed in the appropriate vehicle.


We've got Mills Fleet Farm here in the northern edge of Iowa too - Great store. I've never checked out their batteries there, though. What brand are they? I used to go with the Sears Die Hard batteries, but the last one I put in my wife's van only lasted 2 years, and our local store has given me a hard time about giving me my core refund because of being a couple days late to return the old battery. Lately, I've been getting Interstate batteries from my tire guy, and I've been pretty happy with the results. 

I wouldn't buy a battery from WalMart or Sams unless it was the last battery in town and there was a hurricane or lava flow approaching. I'll get jeans, canned goods, or generic allergy pills there, but won't touch anything electronic or anything in the automotive department except oil. Back when I was selling computers for another retailer, I learned from the HP, Lexmark, and Canon reps who visited our store how Walmart purchases their products. 

Ever notice how the average grocery store might sell a 24 pack of a product or a 12 oz. package, but Walmart sells a 20 pack or a 10.5 oz. package to get the price down? They do the same thing with electronics. Let's say that the national model of an HP computer is 1234us, but Walmart is selling the 1234b or the 1234sc. Or maybe a printer is the Canon 123, but Walmart is selling a 123c. Those different or additional letters at the end of the model number mean that they have modified the product for WalMart distribution. It's usually in the fine print specs. All the big numbers might be the same (like processor speed or amount of RAM on a computer), but deeper details (like using a 5400rpm hard drive instead of a 7200 or having fewer expansion slots) have been altered to reduce the cost of the product. That's why many times you can't get a price match from Target or Best Buy on a Walmart product - because it's actually a different product, even though the model number is almost identical. Similar tactics are used on TVs, Digital Cameras, etc. 

Knowing they do that on electronics makes me really cautious about what they might be doing to batteries or other parts that I depend on to keep my car working reliably.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Decided on a Duralast Platinum AGM battery (rebranded Deka Intimidator). H6, 735 CCA.

My car starts in like a crank and a half, and MUCH stronger now. Not used to this at all.


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## cruzer1026 (May 12, 2012)

jblackburn said:


> Decided on a Duralast Platinum AGM battery (rebranded Deka Intimidator). H6, 735 CCA.
> 
> My car starts in like a crank and a half, and MUCH stronger now. Not used to this at all.


Just got a Duralast Platinum Agm H7 850 CCA the other day. Totally worth it. Car starts faster too.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

cruzer1026 said:


> Just got a Duralast Platinum Agm H7 850 CCA the other day. Totally worth it. Car starts faster too.


No doubt will extend the starter's life as well.


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

So it looks like most of you are going with the Duralast over the Autocraft. Any particular reason?
FWIW, I also have a Duralast Gold but it's in my Vette.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

jblackburn said:


> Decided on a Duralast Platinum AGM battery (rebranded Deka Intimidator). H6, 735 CC


It's been a long time since I've actually purchased anything from Autozone. What kind of rewards or coupons do they have for batteries? I typically order all my parts, and typically from Rockauto, but I'm confident they won't ship me a battery.

Diehard = No signficant promotions that I found 11/25/14
Advance Auto = Maybe 30/40% off but not around me 11/25/14
Autozone= ?? 11/25/14

As black friday approaches any good deals please update this thread.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

carbon02 said:


> It's been a long time since I've actually purchased anything from Autozone. What kind of rewards or coupons do they have for batteries? I typically order all my parts, and typically from Rockauto, but I'm confident they won't ship me a battery.
> 
> Diehard = No signficant promotions that I found 11/25/14
> Advance Auto = Maybe 30/40% off but not around me 11/25/14
> ...


My brother was a part-time Autozone employee during breaks from college, so he still has a 30% discount.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

I notice allot of you are going with the larger battery, what's the weight difference vs stock? If GM thought every pound counted with the ECO enough to shave off 3 gallons of gas(a gallon of gas is 6 pounds), would think adding any additional weight could start bringing down your MPG.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Spacedout-

I think you're exactly right. The reason why the 2011-2012 Cruzes have the 525 CCA battery vs the 600+ in the 2013 all comes down to weight. Sure the larger batteries may weigh an additional 10-15 lbs, but I really don't think that weight will change fuel economy signficantly. I added a rear hitch to mine, and that's nearly 40 lbs, and didn't see a significant difference in mpg. More accurate weight can be found searching individual batterys. Sears I believe lists weights. 

Yes, all the weight everywhere adds up, and must be considered. I've never read the actual amp draw of the starter when starting this vehicle, but I assume its fairly low, compared to a V8 normally asperated vehicle running dino oil. 

One theory may be a larger battery gives a longer life simply due to the fact that a Cruze will probably operate longer at 50% battery capacity if the battery started out as a 700+ CCA, vs. the 550 or 600.

I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes, but traditional lead acid batteries have a Northern Design and a Southern Design based on were you live. It has to do with the Lead to Acid Ratio. CCA vs. cooling capacity (Boil Over Protection) for warmer climates.

The factory battery is a one size fits all, and unfortuantely I think even a standard off the shelf appropriate climate battery sized with the standard H5 series may be better than the factory battery.

I wouldn't doubt the factory battery was rated at 525 CCA because there was a weight spec on it.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

carbon02 said:


> I wouldn't doubt the factory battery was rated at 525 CCA because there was a weight spec on it.


I replaced my stock battery last fall with a sears agm(group 47, direct replacement 600CCA). Seemed the AGM battery was lighter than the stock battery, if I would have been thinking I should have weighed them. 

My car sits outside 100% of the time, on previous cars anything more than 8-10hours on below zero nights my car would start a bit hard in the AM(even with new batteries). The stock cruze battery was fine at 18hrs, the AGM was at 24hrs in the same conditions. Imagine I could go a couple days in the winter with even the stock setup if I really wanted to push it. Don't think it takes much to turn over this tiny engine.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

Kinda weird.....I was looking at a 2015 Cruze yesterday and it had the 525ah......so does the 4cyl Equanox.

Are you sure that you are seeing the SAE rating? (Two ratings are shown....SAE and I don't recall the other because here in the US and I think all of North America we only are concerned with the SAE.)

Rob


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Robby said:


> Kinda weird.....I was looking at a 2015 Cruze yesterday and it had the 525ah......so does the 4cyl Equanox.
> 
> Are you sure that you are seeing the SAE rating? (Two ratings are shown....SAE and I don't recall the other because here in the US and I think all of North America we only are concerned with the SAE.)
> 
> Rob


Robb- I'm not infront of my 2012, but I know what you mean with two numbers on the original label. I looked at it yesterday and I believe 525 CCA was the Society of Automotive Engineers rating. I think that's what SAE stands for, but I may be having a brain freeze!


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

What I was getting at (I have a 2012) is the second rating shown, which on my battery is CCA 485 EN, followed by 525 CCA SAE.

And yes, you are correct about the Society of Automotive Enginners.

Rob


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Mine came with a 438 CCA. GM had a bunch of problems with them, so started using the 525 later in the production run. My 438 was replaced with a 525 when that went dead. 



spacedout said:


> Don't think it takes much to turn over this tiny engine.


It really does not! I doubt much else would have started on this...


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

spacedout said:


> I notice allot of you are going with the larger battery, what's the weight difference vs stock? If GM thought every pound counted with the ECO enough to shave off 3 gallons of gas(a gallon of gas is 6 pounds), would think adding any additional weight could start bringing down your MPG.


I posted the weight differences between the OEM replacement and the larger AGM batteries in post 1.

The H7 is less than 7 pounds heavier than the lead acid OEM size battery.


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

XtremeRevolution said:


> I posted the weight differences between the OEM replacement and the larger AGM batteries in post 1.
> 
> The H7 is less than 7 pounds heavier than the lead acid OEM size battery.


Sorry I missed that. Not even enough weight to worry about.


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## vwgtiglx (Jun 13, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> Decided on a Duralast Platinum AGM battery (rebranded Deka Intimidator). H6, 735 CCA.
> 
> My car starts in like a crank and a half, and MUCH stronger now. Not used to this at all.


I use the Deka Intimidator in all my VW's after switching from Optima (got too expensive). Very dependable and has the highest CCA rating for its size.


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## CHEVYCRUZE RS (Mar 29, 2011)

Awesome write up, thanks .


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## Vetterin (Mar 27, 2011)

If anyone is interested Advance Auto $50 off $125 with code WD48 good till 11/29.


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## El duderino (Dec 29, 2014)

Does anyone have an opinion about replacing a standard lead acid battery for super capacitors in parallel. For instance several 12v capacitors in parallel to match the CCA of a normal car battery granted you might spend as much an optima battery but the 40lb.+ weight savings would be a big deal.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

El duderino said:


> Does anyone have an opinion about replacing a standard lead acid battery for super capacitors in parallel.


Only if they are sold for that application. Capacitors and batteries are two _very_ different animals. Do a Google for "capacitor discharge curve" and "lead acid battery discharge curve" and you'll see what I mean. A battery holds it's voltage as it's capacity is used up, but a capacitor drops like a rock.


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## edcast22 (Jun 24, 2015)

can i fit a group 31 in this battery enclosure?


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## snowvette (Oct 9, 2012)

Thanks so much for this sticky. I had to replace my battery today and it helped a lot. H7 AGM fits like a glove.


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## carbon02 (Feb 25, 2011)

Snowvette-

I think you're one of the first that installed the biggest batteries. Did you have to remove the Circuit block that's attached to the positive cable? 

I would assume the H7 would be pretty long, and you might not be able to "angle it under" the circuit block. 

My 2012 is 4 years old this month, and still has the factory battery. So far so good, but if remove the battery again it will be for replacement. I removed it and had it tested last year thinking I had problems.


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## snowvette (Oct 9, 2012)

Definitely a tight fit, but had a friend hold up circuit block up and a little finesse and it fell in. Watch your fingers.


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## neginfluence04 (May 14, 2015)

snowvette said:


> Definitely a tight fit, but had a friend hold up circuit block up and a little finesse and it fell in. Watch your fingers.
> View attachment 165970


what advantages have you noticed with the bigger battery?


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## Jonnyukon (Aug 20, 2013)




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## snowvette (Oct 9, 2012)

neginfluence04 said:


> what advantages have you noticed with the bigger battery?


Well,,, it starts now without being jumped. It definitely starts faster and that's all I've noticed so far.


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## neile300c (Jul 8, 2014)

The H7 Maxx battery from Everstart (sold at Walmart), has a 5 year warranty and costs $150. 

BTW, Johnson Controls, who makes Everstart batteries, makes over 80% of batteries sold in US. (including Diehard and Interstate)


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## testmain (Oct 26, 2014)

Robby said:


> Bit of a update....looked at Diesel Cruze 94R yesterday.......Delco CCA rating 730amps.
> 
> Also, this is a 'AGM' design.....uh.....uh.....brain fade.....darnit!
> 
> ...


absorbes glass mat


dhpnet said:


> This may be a dumb question, considering it's obviously a larger battery. So, the larger battery will give you more cold cranking amps, but does that also mean that you get more amp hours. For example, can I listen to the radio longer with the engine off without worrying about killing the battery as quickly?



Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

Quick battery question for everyone. In January 2016 my OEM battery took a dump. I was in a pinch (couldn't do much research) and picked up a Bosch Platinum Series AGM H7/94R (spec wise a much better battery than OEM) from Pep Boys. The battery got me through the rest of the winter and was a champ all summer long. Just recently (start of November) I've noticed that in the mornings when I start my car (it sits outside overnight for about 14 hours), it cranks a lot harder and takes longer to turn over. This got me nervous, as its only been in the low 30Fs and IL winters get far colder than that. I took it to the dealer to have them do some testing on the battery, alternator, etc. Everything came back aces and I was told that the most likely cause was short tripping. I drive to and from work 5 days a week, 20 miles round trip (70% stop and go city, 30% "city hwy" - 40-50mph) and usually get a good hwy drive in once a week. In my mind, that's not really short tripping. What do you guys think? Am I really short tripping? Time for a new battery already? How long does it take to top off the battery charge from the alternator when driving? Any other causes? This was never an issue with the OEM battery. That was great until the morning it just died with no warning.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

plasticplant said:


> Quick battery question for everyone. In January 2016 my OEM battery took a dump. I was in a pinch (couldn't do much research) and picked up a Bosch Platinum Series AGM H7/94R (spec wise a much better battery than OEM) from Pep Boys. The battery got me through the rest of the winter and was a champ all summer long. Just recently (start of November) I've noticed that in the mornings when I start my car (it sits outside overnight for about 14 hours), it cranks a lot harder and takes longer to turn over. This got me nervous, as its only been in the low 30Fs and IL winters get far colder than that. I took it to the dealer to have them do some testing on the battery, alternator, etc. Everything came back aces and I was told that the most likely cause was short tripping. I drive to and from work 5 days a week, 20 miles round trip (70% stop and go city, 30% "city hwy" - 40-50mph) and usually get a good hwy drive in once a week. In my mind, that's not really short tripping. What do you guys think? Am I really short tripping? Time for a new battery already? How long does it take to top off the battery charge from the alternator when driving? Any other causes? This was never an issue with the OEM battery. That was great until the morning it just died with no warning.


I don't think so at all. I used to use my car ~1 time a week to run errands (5-10 miles at most, many starts) and it would sit around undriven the rest of the time. Never had an issue with the AGM battery - always cranked right up and held itself above 12V.

What's the current voltage when the car is off? You could also have the battery load-tested at an auto parts store to see if it's providing the correct cranking amperage.

Battery cables are a common issue on these cars - don't know about the diesels, but I think even 2014's were affected by that.


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## plasticplant (Mar 26, 2013)

It was at 11.6 this morning. It was about 38F outside.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

I've also recently noticed my battery will be at around 11.6V before starting, and sits between 14.5V and 15.3V when the car is running. I'm concerned that since the alternator is always charging now, I'll wear it out. I have not observed any behavior problems yet (IE: Car alarm going off randomly, car not starting, CELs, etc) 

Would it be wise to change the battery early, to try and save the alternator from premature wear? Or would it just be a waste of money? My car was built 1/2014 and it sat on a lot until I bought it 3/2015. Since then I've put on 34K miles, 20K of which was delivering pizza which requires an excessive amount of starting. I've also got a power thirsty 1600 watt amp that drew straight from the factory battery for 7 months before I installed a second battery and an 80 amp isolator relay in the trunk. 

As I'm writing this I think I'm realizing that I should indeed change the battery....


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

chevrasaki said:


> I've also recently noticed my battery will be at around 11.6V before starting,


That gives me some concern. Assuming it's accurate, that's a completely discharged battery. However, I'd confirm that with a voltmeter on the battery itself.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> That gives me some concern. Assuming it's accurate, that's a completely discharged battery. However, I'd confirm that with a voltmeter on the battery itself.


I just checked the battery with my multi meter and it says 12.1V, when the car is off the DIC reads 12.1V and drops to 11.8V briefly after starting it, and jumps to 14.9V when the alternator kicks in. I drove around for 20 miles and the DIC read 14.9V the entire trip. I'm thinking the battery can't hold a full charge anymore, it might be time to replace it before it wears the alternator out.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

12.1V looks to be about 50% of charge. Now, that could be high discharge (perhaps self-discharge), or failure to be charged. Can't tell.

At this point, I'd say it's cause for some concern, but it's not pointing to what is wrong. 

Note that after shut-off, the battery voltage will be high due to surface charge.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> 12.1V looks to be about 50% of charge. Now, that could be high discharge (perhaps self-discharge), or failure to be charged. Can't tell.
> 
> At this point, I'd say it's cause for some concern, but it's not pointing to what is wrong.
> 
> Note that after shut-off, the battery voltage will be high due to surface charge.


Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

chevrasaki said:


> Is that something that can be addressed with B2B warranty?


Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.


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## chevrasaki (May 1, 2015)

ChevyGuy said:


> Good question. What I'm reading for the 2016 warranty is that it's only covered for 12 months. I guess the battery is considered something of a consumable. OTOH, I think I've read where others were covered under B2B. You probably should check the one you have.


I'll have to check next week. I'm about to hit 35K miles, so my B2B days are limited.


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## Cruzen Vegas (Aug 27, 2015)

WRONG WRONG WRONG, I was just going to start a new thread on this, because I just picked up a new battery at the GM parts Counter for free! Do Not bring the whole car in to the service area, Take the Battery out, it free replacement for 30 months, it has a secret Date code marked on the top of the battery.. This is the second Gm Battery I have got for free, the first one was two years ago, and now just got my second! This is the best battery ever, mine seems to last exactly 2 years... So today I called my service guy, and he was like NO NO, once your Bumper to bumper runs out so does your Battery warranty,,,All BS, The battery has a 30 month free replacement warranty, you don't need a receipt, the date code is on the battery for warranty, that's how all battery warranties work! Take the battery out, and bring it into the parts counter!


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## Spyder918 (Apr 13, 2016)

spacedout said:


> This is true, however some manufactures pay for the ones that test better. When I was around 20 years old I worked at a factory making shop vacs for sears and home depot, the sears branded ones the electric motor had to test above a certain level, all of those below that were put on the Ridgid branded ones.
> 
> I could have bought a duracell battery at Sams Club that was identical to the sears battery for much less money, but knowing the above I chose to spend the money on the name brand. Both even have the same warranty.
> 
> ...


Which, name brand - Duracell or Die Hard? Thanks.


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## Christopher_2 (Jul 31, 2012)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ttery-group-size-h7-850-cca-h7-agm/10210826-P

Use code SAVINGS

I am looking for a new battery and I think this will be it.


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

Christopher_2 said:


> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ttery-group-size-h7-850-cca-h7-agm/10210826-P
> 
> Use code SAVINGS
> 
> I am looking for a new battery and I think this will be it.


I like that Battery however a little pricey? It would cost me about $275, including tax, core charge and California recycling fee before the various savings promotions they offer, I see $30, or 20%, also your SAVINGS code or N61 to save 10%. Who spends $275 on a battery. Plus they can't ship it to me although they offer free shipping and are out of stock at the stores that are for pickup


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## spacedout (Dec 7, 2010)

Spyder918 said:


> Which, name brand - Duracell or Die Hard? Thanks.


In the case above the Sears Die Hard would probably be the higher quality product. Yes it cost more than the Duracell branded ones that you can get at Sams club or Batteries Plus, but like I tried to point out in the previous post, sears does sometimes have higher standards for their products. Sears is known for a long lasting battery, so I can assume what I know as fact about their shop vacs, is probably true for their batteries too.


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## Christopher_2 (Jul 31, 2012)

Eddy Cruze said:


> I like that Battery however a little pricey? It would cost me about $275, including tax, core charge and California recycling fee before the various savings promotions they offer, I see $30, or 20%, also your SAVINGS code or N61 to save 10%. Who spends $275 on a battery. Plus they can't ship it to me although they offer free shipping and are out of stock at the stores that are for pickup



The code SAVINGS took $50.00 off for me, I was signed in and am a Speed Perks member maybe that is the difference also code TRT41 is still valid and it is good for $40.00 off.

Came to $188.00 with core when I was looking in my cart.


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## AzSandSlinger (Sep 10, 2015)

Just thought I'd put my .02 in.

Replaced my battery today. 

2014 Cruze LS 1.8l

Looked at the options and went with a 34R Optima Red top, 800CCA

Not a perfect fit but with some padding it works. Price was the same as a Duralast Gold and cheaper than the Platinum (which the diesel requires because the CCA). 

It's just long enough you have to move the divider out and fill. It's just short enough you'll have to pad under the tie down. The pos terminal needs a bit of massaging but it will fit fine.

Overall works and fits great.

EDIT: added pic

The foam spacers is the stuff you buy to keep your pipes fr M freezing. Cut to fit.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Very informative XR.

Thanks for the thread 


Current pricing


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## 1988gmc355 (Jul 20, 2016)

Car and Truck Automotive Batteries - Buy a Vehicle Battery for Cars or Trucks | Interstate Batteries - Mega-Tron Plus 94R/H7 Automotive Battery Six-Year Performance 790 CCAThis is a great thread. I wanted to add my input and findings. I have always used Interstate Mega Tron batteries. I am on my second one in my truck, the first one I replaced after 7 years of being started everyday in temps from -14 to 100 degrees. It ran extra lighting too and a bigger alternator charged it, it is 1000CA and I think about 880 CCA. Biggest one I could fit. 

So I am glad I found this thread so when I need a battery I can fit the biggest one. The MTP 94R/H7 is 985CA/790CCA but weight is 42.9 lbs, so way less than the AGM stated in the OP's post.

I wonder what gives?

I will go interstate for my Cruze as I like to support local and they always have really good pricing.


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## 1988gmc355 (Jul 20, 2016)

aAhh, nevermind I see what I did wrong in comparing


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

What I would do, is buy a Lithium battery, and put a 3Farad cap in parallel with the battery.
The CAP is just there to smooth out the charging current.
1 or 0.5 Farad cap will be just as good, but since it's only a few bucks more for a 3 Farad, I'd just get a 3 farad. 
Besides, they also help in case you have a power-hungry radio with subs.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

ProDigit said:


> What I would do, is buy a Lithium battery, and put a 3Farad cap in parallel with the battery.
> The CAP is just there to smooth out the charging current.
> 1 or 0.5 Farad cap will be just as good, but since it's only a few bucks more for a 3 Farad, I'd just get a 3 farad.
> Besides, they also help in case you have a power-hungry radio with subs.


The failure rate of cheap caps is high enough that I wouldn't recommend this to everyone as a replacement for an OEM battery. The combination may not have enough cold cranking capacity for everyone else to start their cars with on exceptionally cold days here in the northern midwest. Good caps cost as much as a battery, so at that point, you may as well just pick up an H7 AGM and be done with it. A cap is really just a bandaid for a weak electrical system when it comes to sound systems, and has a tendency to mask real electrical issues that should be addressed.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

ProDigit said:


> What I would do, is buy a Lithium battery, and put a 3Farad cap in parallel with the battery.
> The CAP is just there to smooth out the charging current.
> 1 or 0.5 Farad cap will be just as good, but since it's only a few bucks more for a 3 Farad, I'd just get a 3 farad.
> Besides, they also help in case you have a power-hungry radio with subs.


Sorry I missed your stated goal??:question::icon_scratch: Is it the most expensive battery/charging system??:huh: Also note that most Lithium battery manufacturers state "_ Do not de-sulfate any lithium ion battery" _which is what the Cruze charging system does periodically .

If you are just trying to squeeze a little more juice out you could shoe horn a group size 27F AGM from Battery Plus!*


XtremeRevolution* simply states the issue for you.

Lithium battery: $1999.00
https://www.lithiumpros.com/product/lithium-pros-m3110-12v110ah-starting-lithium-ion-battery/

Ultra/Super capacitors: $110 - $200
12V super capacitor module 6x 350 farad caps 300A (engine starting, car audio) | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultracapaci...6F-/262698926084?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Maxwell-Boo...30dbe4b&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=262633838704

https://www.amazon.com/Farad-Electric-Double-Layer-Capacitor/dp/B00OYILTOA

https://www.escomponents.com/capacitors-ultracapacitors?gclid=CI-Z8ITn2dMCFQQLaQoddn4NsA


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

XtremeRevolution said:


> The failure rate of cheap caps is high enough that I wouldn't recommend this to everyone as a replacement for an OEM battery. The combination may not have enough cold cranking capacity for everyone else to start their cars with on exceptionally cold days here in the northern midwest. Good caps cost as much as a battery, so at that point, you may as well just pick up an H7 AGM and be done with it. A cap is really just a bandaid for a weak electrical system when it comes to sound systems, and has a tendency to mask real electrical issues that should be addressed.


It depends on what the peak loads are. if you install it in a stock cruze, there's no reason it should fail at all, for the lifetime of the vehicle.
If you have a serious sound system upgrade, you may want to upgrade the caps.
But for anything under 500W RMS, I see no reason to not use these caps.


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

For anything under 500W rms, I see no reason TO use a capacitor. In fact, given that all they really do is bandaid weak electrical systems, I don't see as reason to use one, ever. 

Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

It's not necessary, indeed. It just gives a more stable charging current, less voltage fluctuations or spikes, and should help the battery live a little longer.
If you turn on the digital volt meter on the car's dash, you can see that voltages can quickly fluctuate between 12.6V and 14.8V.
A cap can even them out.
It can also help with better starting on a worn or cold battery; but the difference is minimal


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

ProDigit said:


> It's not necessary, indeed. It just gives a more stable charging current, less voltage fluctuations or spikes, and should help the battery live a little longer.
> If you turn on the digital volt meter on the car's dash, you can see that voltages can quickly fluctuate between 12.6V and 14.8V.
> A cap can even them out.
> It can also help with better starting on a worn or cold battery; but the difference is minimal


Voltage fluctuates like that because the alternator disengages itself when accelerating or not needed for fuel economy.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

ProDigit said:


> It's not necessary, indeed. It just gives a more stable charging current, less voltage fluctuations or spikes, and should help the battery live a little longer.
> If you turn on the digital volt meter on the car's dash, you can see that voltages can quickly fluctuate between 12.6V and 14.8V.
> A cap can even them out.
> It can also help with better starting on a worn or cold battery; but the difference is minimal


In the newer GM vehicles this intentional voltage variation (11.0V to 15.5V) is a DESIGN feature called RVC which has many modes for determining charge voltage, otherwise in layman terms "smart" voltage regulation. Adding extraneous large farad capacitors may cause voltage oscillations or even the control circuit to not function properly depending on the control loop response time.:th_down:

One can find information on RVC more specific to the Cruze by searching this blog or general info at the link below:

https://srs20assets.service-solutions.com/OEM/GM/en-US/Generic/Downloads/Document%20Library/TL_Sept04.pdf

CruzeTalk:
[url]http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/17-off-topic-discussion/1339-chevy-cruze-regulates-voltage-boost-fuel-economy.html

[/URL]


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

theonlypheonix said:


> In the newer GM vehicles this intentional voltage variation (11.0V to 15.5V) is a DESIGN feature called RVC which has many modes for determining charge voltage, otherwise in layman terms "smart" voltage regulation. Adding extraneous large farad capacitors may cause voltage oscillations or even the control circuit to not function properly depending on the control loop response time.:th_down:
> 
> One can find information on RVC more specific to the Cruze by searching this blog or general info at the link below:
> 
> ...


Let me call out bull on this response!
No way a Capacitor causes 'voltage oscillations', if anything it avoids it.
And in no way will it affect the 'proper function of the citcuit', if anything, it makes it work much better and secure.
Unless you're installing a bad (broken) cap.


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

ProDigit said:


> Let me call out bull on this response!
> No way a Capacitor causes 'voltage oscillations', if anything it avoids it.
> And in no way will it affect the 'proper function of the citcuit', if anything, it makes it work much better and secure.
> Unless you're installing a bad (broken) cap.



I see you speak from 38 years experience in control and feedback loops specific to engine electronics or even if any experience in basic electronics? I'm sure the original design never included extraneous high farad capacitors to be added to the circuit as one can see from what happens when even small amounts of extraneous resistance is added thru defective battery ground cables with resulting erratic operation of the charging circuit which so many Cruze owners experience as evidenced by the ground cable recall from GM. 

In your previous post you speak about adding farad(s) of capacitance to even out the normal DESIGNED voltage variance (12.2 to 15.5v) which is the specific intention of the RVC charging circuit. I'm all for experimenting with out cars but have you done a circuit analysis of the response you would expect with that kind of addition? A small amount of capacitance may make no difference but large farad values that could have an impact on the design intention of RVC could have a destabilizing affect on the system overall designed response over the expected temperature operating extremes (-40F to 210+F).

That's OK... just keep up your voodoo engineering lets us know how it works out for you. :not_worthy::hope:


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## ProDigit (Aug 31, 2015)

theonlypheonix said:


> I see you speak from 38 years experience in control and feedback loops specific to engine electronics or even if any experience in basic electronics? I'm sure the original design never included extraneous high farad capacitors to be added to the circuit as one can see from what happens when even small amounts of extraneous resistance is added thru defective battery ground cables with resulting erratic operation of the charging circuit which so many Cruze owners experience as evidenced by the ground cable recall from GM.
> 
> In your previous post you speak about adding farad(s) of capacitance to even out the normal DESIGNED voltage variance (12.2 to 15.5v) which is the specific intention of the RVC charging circuit. I'm all for experimenting with out cars but have you done a circuit analysis of the response you would expect with that kind of addition? A small amount of capacitance may make no difference but large farad values that could have an impact on the design intention of RVC could have a destabilizing affect on the system overall designed response over the expected temperature operating extremes (-40F to 210+F).
> 
> That's OK... just keep up your voodoo engineering lets us know how it works out for you. :not_worthy::hope::dazed002:


And now in plain English, please?
Because us 'leeks' don't seem to understand your unrelated mumbo-jumbo.

You can't expect a capacitor to be acting any different than a battery, when being placed in parallel.
It also adds zero resistance. if anything it reduces resistance.
I thought you had 38 years of 'experience' in the field?
Don't tell me you thought I was going to put the cap in series with the battery?

And especially can't expect it to affect or break a ground.
And temperatures also have nothing to do with the whole conversation.
And I don't know what 'out of the normal designed voltage variance' you mean. Since automotive (12V) caps always are rated up to 16V.

I really don't know what to make of this conversation...


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

ProDigit said:


> And now in plain English, please?
> Because us 'leeks' don't seem to understand your unrelated mumbo-jumbo.
> 
> You can't expect a capacitor to be acting any different than a battery, when being placed in parallel.
> ...


I think we are all here to learn from one another and our individual experiences, some of us have very specific experiences. The two links in my post #90 were to educate you on the whys and what for you observe the voltages vastly varying by design! From a possible low of 11V to 15.5... it happens that way by design NOT transients. Attempting to stabilize those design variations may come at the negative affect of loss of stability because the circuit was never designed to work with Mega farad capacitors but what the heck... try it and report back how it goes for you.opblood:


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

ProDigit said:


> Let me call out bull on this response!
> No way a Capacitor causes 'voltage oscillations', if anything it avoids it.
> And in no way will it affect the 'proper function of the citcuit', if anything, it makes it work much better and secure.
> Unless you're installing a bad (broken) cap.


ProDigit... what happen to you? I was looking for an engaged discussion on your further thoughts for a Super/Ultra capacitor battery starter and/or booster!

To help start the discussion here are some basics thoughts which you can pick and choose from where ever you want, the final COST will be the real issue (I don't see the need for a Lithium battery though):


http://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272735

http://www.maxwell.com/products/ultracapacitors/downloads


http://www.maxwell.com/images/documents/K2_2_85V_DS_3000619EN_3_.pdf



Six of these K2 puppies wired in series will get you started literally! Note they are rated 3400Farad at 2.85V so that is why they need to be wired in series which this would get you about a 17V capability. With the regular Cruze charge of max 15.5V allowing a little head room. I still question whether the Cruze charging system has been designed well enough to be stable with this amount of capacitance, note the voltage should still vary as the system detects the changes but probably at a slower rate of change. Who knows it might even save on fuel just like the alternator regen claim is to save 10 miles per full tank of fuel. 



There are several other things you need to worry about... balancing the voltage equally across each of the capacitors for best storage and so that a single capacitor does not receive greater then it rated voltage, you can buy per-assembled circuits for doing this about $68. 

http://www.maxwell.com/images/documents/Integration Kit_User Manual_1011158_6.pdf


Then one needs to consider housing/packaging, and lastly the initial capacitor bank charge. Theoretically you will start out at about 0V charge when you receive them. If connected directly to a voltage source these capacitors will appear as a direct short (1.2milli ohms), not good! You will need to give them a limited voltage and current to start with i.e. using a headlamp in series with the voltage source until they reach about an 8V charge from there you should be able to connect to a battery charger till fully charged. This is not every detail but certainly enough to get started if you choose to take this mission? Note this is an experiment for the experienced ONLY and the total storage charge can be hazardous!! Once fully charged max short circuit current has the potential for 10,000 Amps... yes those are AMPs not milliamps !!! 

Other considerations: the rated capacitor operating temperature is max'd at 65C which is lower then most engine compartments esp if one lives in the Phoenix area. For temperature reasons these would be better suited for mounting like they do for the battery on my '05 Bonn GXP, under the rear passenger seat. Note that AGM batteries are rate for about 50C so in that respect the caps have a little advantage.

There are many youtube videos for this type of science project if you are up to the challenge? Note this is not a proven experiment nor suggestion and one should proceed at their own risk and peril ! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jb8T-TqvNVE


One most certainly needs to understand basic electrical design principals due to the extremely high current storage capabilities!


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

theonlypheonix said:


> ProDigit... what happen to you? I was looking for an engaged discussion on your further thoughts for a Super/Ultra capacitor battery starter and/or booster!
> 
> To help start the discussion here are some basics thoughts which you can pick and choose from where ever you want, the final COST will be the real issue (I don't see the need for a Lithium battery though):
> 
> ...


Still pondering the Lithium battery/Ultra capacitor hybrid approach and whether this makes sense as a cost effective automotive starter battery? LI-PO for small size, high density, and less weight along with an Ultra CAP as an alternative solution for flooded cell or AGM battery. I don't know... maybe a Tech obsessive, complex and very costly solution for an otherwise simple low cost solution (AGM/Flooded cell)?
Interesting Science project though! :dazed052::th_dblthumb2:

https://www.technologyreview.com/s/417053/a-battery-ultracapacitor-hybrid/

https://www.bioennopower.com/phttp://www.pe.org.pl/articles/2012/4b/29.pdfages/hybrid-supercapacitor-battery

The case for ultra capacitor/battery hybrids:

http://www.pe.org.pl/articles/2012/4b/29.pdf


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## theonlypheonix (Oct 8, 2015)

Still working on this capacitor "thing" which ProDigit originally brought up a couple posts back.

World highest level super-capacitor successfully created by CRRC ZELC_Home_CRRC ZHUZHOU LOCOMOTIVE CO., LTD.

China's first home-made supercapacitor tram unveiled - Xinhua | English.news.cn

Maxwell and CRRC to develop rail transit supercapacitors

http://www.railjournal.com/index.php/asia/crrc-zhuzhou-wins-malaysian-emu-order.html

http://www.electronicdesign.com/power/can-supercapacitors-surpass-batteries-energy-storage

Forget diesel and gasoline powered cars I'm ready for a Bolt powered by supercapacitors!!
:tongue4::3tens:

Where is the gen 3 Tesla powered with the "flux" capacitor drive from Dr. Emmett Brown's DeLorean... I'm off to "Back to the Future!fftopic:


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

My question here is an AGM battery required or just considered an upgrade


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

AutumnCruzeRS said:


> My question here is an AGM battery required or just considered an upgrade


Upgrade. Required only for diesels and Gen 2 Start/Stop models.


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## AutumnCruzeRS (Sep 10, 2012)

Thanks Justin. I'm gonna go for saving $30 and see what happens. Will update with any issues.


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## wasney (Mar 3, 2015)

Just so everyone knows there's a code right now to get 30% off batteries at Advance Auto on you can get the H6 for about $130 and you can get the H7 for about $190. 

The code is EM308A

It looks like the codes only good for about three more days, so if you think you need a new battery get one now. 

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


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## johnm4 (Jun 1, 2011)

wasney said:


> Just so everyone knows there's a code right now to get 30% off batteries at Advance Auto on you can get the H6 for about $130 and you can get the H7 for about $190.
> 
> The code is EM308A
> 
> ...


Looking to get the H6 but just missed out on this coupon. There's a 25% offer for signing up for their emails, but I'll probably wait for another 30% offer if I can.

This took me awhile to figure out: The group sizes list maximum sizes. So the H6/48 size can be longer, but the Platinum AGM doesn't use the max size. So a H6 Gold and H6 Platinum AGM are different actual sizes.


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## snowwy66 (Nov 5, 2017)

Someone bought their battery from amazon. $150. After coupon.


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## brianboyer82 (Apr 6, 2018)

the xs power d4800 will fit as well. but the price is $340 for that battery. for the audio guys in here.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

I bought 2 AutoCraft H5s today for my '13 and '14. After the $50 off for the both, it came down to 134.99 ea. Seems to be about the going price anymore for a decent battery. Actually the same price as what I paid for the battery form my 2012 from Sam's back in 2016.


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## mikeeitup (Aug 27, 2013)

Hey XR, just wanted to say thanks for the info and pics. I went out on Black Friday and scored a H7 94R Boshe Platinum AGM for a great price and it installed super easy on my Eco. Can't wait to test 'er out. Thanks!
Mike


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## Cruzette (Jan 19, 2020)

What's that other ground wire for???


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzette said:


> What's that other ground wire for???


What picture are you looking at?

Could be the block to body, could be part of the big three kit used to upgrade your electrical system etc.


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## Cruzette (Jan 19, 2020)

This wire...


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Cruzette said:


> This wire...


You need that. Remove the old crimp-on connector and replace it. Be careful of the length as it may be a bit short.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

If anyone is looking, PEP Boys have the

Bosch Platinum Series AGM Battery Group, Size H7/L4/94R
Part #:94R800BAGM
| SKU :838845
★★★★★★★★★★
See all 208 reviews

The battery is on sale at 25% off for $146.24, regularly $194.99. I shopped at nine different outlets for an H7/94R in general and no one came close this time of year. I believe today only.


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

That is really a good deal.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

TheRealHip said:


> That is really a good deal.


I just finished installing one in my Cruze.


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## Dannycruze101 (Dec 24, 2020)

Also for discounts at auto stores anybody with AAA gets 20% of at NAPA by showing their card or entering their member number online at checkout. Just saying. I'd like to put the diesel battery my Cruze LT.


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## _GABO_ (Mar 7, 2021)

XtremeRevolution said:


> Remember, if you have an Advance Auto Parts store near by, there is almost always a 30% coupon available that will knock $50 off the price of a battery. Order online to pick up in store.


Heads-up, since Advance bought/implemented the Diehard branding on their batteries their coupon codes now _exclude_ batteries. Speed Perks coupons (Advance Auto Parts rewards) can be used, but other coupons cannot. I was able to get an AGM battery for my wife's car for 25% off in July of 2020, by October of 2020 when my car needed one the coupon rules had changed.


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## PAChevyCruze (May 29, 2016)

_GABO_ said:


> Heads-up, since Advance bought/implemented the Diehard branding on their batteries their coupon codes now _exclude_ batteries. Speed Perks coupons (Advance Auto Parts rewards) can be used, but other coupons cannot. I was able to get an AGM battery for my wife's car for 25% off in July of 2020, by October of 2020 when my car needed one the coupon rules had changed.


Noticed this. Kinda sucks. LOL 😕


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## Toma (Nov 8, 2021)

Those platinum batteries cost +240$ these days


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Blasirl said:


> If anyone is looking, PEP Boys have the
> 
> Bosch Platinum Series AGM Battery Group, Size H7/L4/94R
> Part #:94R800BAGM
> ...


The battery I installed in 2020 just died. It has a bad cell. PepBoys parts stores went out of business and so I called Bosch the manufacturer. They said they needed to know when I purchased, how much I paid and where I purchased it at. I gave them those three pieces of information along with the part number and they then said I needed a receipt as since they went out of business, they could not determine if the information I gave them was true or not. I said I had a credit card receipt, but that was not good enough. I said the battery has a manufacture date and that it also states it comes with a 4 year 100% replacement. Still wouldn't budge. I think it was a convenient way to get out of a bunch of warranty claims on their part. I said thanks and that I was going to purchase a Duralast battery as Autozone keeps records of past purchases and warranties.


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## TheRealHip (Sep 1, 2014)

Autozone is the best for returns. I had a bad battery once when Pepboys still had parts and they would not take it because my receipt was faded.....


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

TheRealHip said:


> Autozone is the best for returns. I had a bad battery once when Pepboys still had parts and they would not take it because my receipt was faded.....


Autozone refused to take the battery I bought back when I found out it was really the starter that was the issue. Anyone looking for a killer battery for less than what AZ sells it for?


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