# Having a couple issues with my 2011 ECO - Do I need to bring it in?



## shelldog (Nov 1, 2013)

Just registered, first time posting. Let me start by saying hello to all you sexy people.

Now for the details. I have a 2011 ECO with the turbo in it. 

First problem:

When I'm accelerating, half way through 2nd gear, I hear what sounds like a plastic snow shovel briefly scraping against the sidewalk when you shovel snow. I can even feel a slight vibration in the gas pedal when this happens. It always happens right around the same RPMs, when I'm half way into 2nd gear. It usually only happens when I first start driving, not every time I hit those RPMs in that gear. Any ideas?

Second problem:

I tried starting my car yesterday, but all I got was a bunch of clicking. The lights worked and I got some power to the car, but not enough to activate the locks when I pressed the buttons on my key fob. Now, when I tried starting my car today, the key got locked in the ignition. Also, there's no power to the car whatsoever. I tried turning the wheel to each side, but it wouldn't release my key. The wheel lock isn't engaged, as I can feel the resistance of the tires against the pavement. I read elsewhere on the forum something about Passlock (or whatever it's called). Could this be the issue? If so, can I fix it myself? I've seen a lot of blame pointed toward the battery and the alternator - how can I tell which one needs replacement?

I still have a warranty on the car, but I'm not sure if it'll cover this type of work. Any suggestions/recommendations?


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## shelldog (Nov 1, 2013)

> First problem:
> 
> When I'm accelerating, half way through 2nd gear, I hear what sounds like a plastic snow shovel briefly scraping against the sidewalk when you shovel snow. I can even feel a slight vibration in the gas pedal when this happens. It always happens right around the same RPMs, when I'm half way into 2nd gear. It usually only happens when I first start driving, not every time I hit those RPMs in that gear.


I just read the "Fix my cruze" introductory submission, and I think this describes the ABS self-check. I'm going to read into it a bit more to get some clarification.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

You are going to have to do a lot of reading to get more familiar with your new cruzen . 
Good luck to you and Best wishes !


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

You are hearing (as described) the ABS self test mentioned above.

Your current electrical/key won't come out concern describes a failed battery.....enouph amps to light a few lights but not enouph for the other systems.

Rob


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

1 - ABS Self test. It occurs when you hit 20 KPH (12.4 MPG) the first time after starting the car after it's been off for at least 10 minutes.

2 - Replace your battery. According to a JD Powers survey a couple of years ago the most common item to be replaced in the first three years of ownership is the battery.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Welcome to the forum shelldog! So sorry that you are having issues with your Cruze. I went over to your other thread and it looks like you found the issue. If not feel free to send me a private message and I will see what I can do to assist you. 

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## iKermit (Dec 13, 2010)

Welcome to Cruzetalk and we helped!


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

I'd recommend going with something other than the stock battery for a replacement - they've been dropping like flies here on the forum. Your Cruze uses a Group 47 sized battery.

Mine came to an end (and was replaced under B2B warranty) one morning when it showed 11.5V on the DIC and barely, barely even cranked over. You can check your battery voltage through the DIC screen (go to the vehicle information menu and see what you've got if you're curious).


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

Hey shelldog, 

If you want to know your specific remaining warranty you can send me your VIN and current mileage by private message. Also here is the warranty details and what it covers.

Chevrolet Warranty

Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

Welcome to the forums!
Like stated above: 1. ABS Self Test 
2. Bad Battery, or a bad Alternator, if it is not charging the battery, either way, if you are still under warranty take it in.


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## shelldog (Nov 1, 2013)

I want to thank everyone here for their contributions to this thread! I really appreciate you all taking the time to help a newbie out. 

I just called AAA to jump my car and brought it into an auto parts store to have the alternator and battery tested. Both readings came back fine, and the guy said it looked like the original owner had already replaced the battery. I'll keep an eye on it for any more indicators of a bad battery.


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

New or old....batteries don't get well by themselves..........I wouldn't trust that one further than I could throw it......never seen a battery sighn off at a convenient time.....usually Sunday afternoons, holiday weekends.

Rob


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Robby said:


> New or old....batteries don't get well by themselves..........I wouldn't trust that one further than I could throw it......never seen a battery sighn off at a convenient time.....usually Sunday afternoons, holiday weekends.
> 
> Rob


... middle of the night, and my favorite - in the middle of nowhere while on vacation.

Don't trust that battery unless you can positively identify and correct why it lost its charge.


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

Treat that battery like you would treat an ex-wife! Use the Law Firm of Ditcher,Quick, and Hyde and go right out there and get that battery replaced!

Sorry I was married once before. You all can probably tell that I still have some issues with that. Stupidly I am remarried again now 16 years with my current wife but I am always looking for my future Mrs. Ex-Wife.

Sent from my last surviving brain cell


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## Robby (Mar 1, 2013)

:xxrotflmao:^^^^^^^^^

Rob


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

shelldog said:


> I want to thank everyone here for their contributions to this thread! I really appreciate you all taking the time to help a newbie out.
> 
> I just called AAA to jump my car and brought it into an auto parts store to have the alternator and battery tested. Both readings came back fine, and the guy said it looked like the original owner had already replaced the battery. I'll keep an eye on it for any more indicators of a bad battery.


This means the battery is probably fine but the Alternator is failing. Alternators often pass Auto Store's tests even when they are bad. Keep an eye on the Voltage on the DIC while driving and see if it constantly drops. This is a good indicator of a bad Alternator.

BTW, vehicles equipped with a voltmeter, do not show indication of bad batteries. The Voltmeter shows how much juice is running through the system, if this number is low it is a sign of a bad Alt, not battery, as once the car is running, it should not be using the battery. If the volts are dropping, then it is running on battery and the Alt is not charging the battery properly.


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## jblackburn (Apr 14, 2012)

Dragonsys said:


> This means the battery is probably fine but the Alternator is failing. Alternators often pass Auto Store's tests even when they are bad. Keep an eye on the Voltage on the DIC while driving and see if it constantly drops. This is a good indicator of a bad Alternator.
> 
> BTW, vehicles equipped with a voltmeter, do not show indication of bad batteries. The Voltmeter shows how much juice is running through the system, if this number is low it is a sign of a bad Alt, not battery, as once the car is running, it should not be using the battery. If the volts are dropping, then it is running on battery and the Alt is not charging the battery properly.


It'll show you if the battery is refusing to hold a charge when the car is off though 

There's another possibility - one of the connections on the top was making just making poor contact with a terminal.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App


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## Dragonsys (May 27, 2013)

jblackburn said:


> It'll show you if the battery is refusing to hold a charge when the car is off though
> 
> There's another possibility - one of the connections on the top was making just making poor contact with a terminal.


Well, sort of yes. You can monitor the battery's rate of discharge. If the battery is discharging quickly, that would be a sign of a bad battery; however, if the battery does not discharge quickyl, but has a low voltage, that still points more to the alternator not charging (or the battery not taking a charge).

True, poor connections on the battery terminals will cause poor charging.


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