# Purchased K&N panel filter; here's why



## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

So today on the way back from dropping the kids off at school, the car was just so boggy off the line it was silly. I got so irritated that I decided to pull out the air filter and do some logging without it in.

Immediately I noticed ALL of the lag and bog was gone. I could even creep to a stop in 1st without it stalling or bogging until the very last second. My log still shows me pulling in the same airflow rate as before but throttle response is snappy, VERY snappy. The max airflow also came on much sooner when requested vs previously logged runs with it in. 

I was against the K&N because of the oils, but since AEM doesn't want to make a 1.4T panel, I'm going to just deal with cleaning the MAF every now and then. 

I still think my airflow rate will increase with the down pipe and thus my performance issues with the tune will go away, but for now I'm happy to have the drivability problem improved.

Going to build a home depot CAI this weekend to confirm that it isn't the airbox causing an airflow restriction. Will post results.

Side note: Without that filter the turbo spool and blow off are noticeable every shift.


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## Hoon (Mar 18, 2012)

Its not the airbox. My car gained 6whp on the dyno with the air filter removed, airbox sealed just without the filter in it.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

Hoon said:


> Its not the airbox. My car gained 6whp on the dyno with the air filter removed, airbox sealed just without the filter in it.


WOW! Was it stock paper or K&N?


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## Hoon (Mar 18, 2012)

Stock paper, removed it and gained 6. 

Haven't tested the K&N


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## NYCruze2012 (Jan 16, 2012)

I noticed a difference when I took out the stock paper filter and installed the K&N in my Cruze Eco. I have one in my wife's Sonic, our Suburban, and my Crown Victoria P71 Interceptor. I believe it makes a difference in all my cars.

Sent from my DROID3


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

I never knew the stock filter was so restrictive. I'm very glad I bought the Injen intake.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using AutoGuide App


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

I've always used K&N's. First thing I buy in fact. But, because of all the hooha about the oils and the MAF I wanted to go with a dry filter, especially after using one on my SRT-4. 

K&N no doubt add's performance (define that term as you will). I just want my throttle response!


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## Sonic (Oct 21, 2012)

Maybe this will be the fix you were looking for.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

after reading;bought a aem dryflow....haha because 1.8:th_coolio:


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## grs1961 (Oct 23, 2012)

I just dropped a K&N into my '09 Oz-spec Korean-built 2.0l diesel, and it seems to just be that little bit swifter on the jump - but that could also be due to having done a DPF burn straight after!

And having had a good look over it, I can only say if people have had problems with oil getting into the sensors they must have done something wrong, in 80,000 kilometres or so, when I clean it, I'll have an idea as to how easy it is or isn't to over oil it!


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## Pete in PA (Dec 1, 2012)

I also buy a K&N as my first mod for every vehicle I own. As a test I take the OEM air filter and try to look through it at the sun. It amazes me that some engines even run with those air filters.


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## Patman (May 7, 2011)

jakkaroo said:


> after reading;bought a aem dryflow....haha because 1.8:th_coolio:


Me too. The need for a CAI was negated with the improved air flow from the AEM filter vs the old tightly constructed stock air filter. Kinda gave me improved throttle like the tune but not nearly as much but it helped. I have the 1.8 also.


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## mba200687 (Apr 1, 2012)

I purchased my K&N drop in and noticed a difference in the throttle response.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

Sonic said:


> Maybe this will be the fix you were looking for.


It will certainly help the bog off the line and lack of power in 2nd gear. But, I still need to find a solution to my low calculated air flow rate. 

Wish I had offered to send you guys the AEM filter I bought. Could have saved myself $15 lost on shipping it back.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

titan2782 said:


> It will certainly help the bog off the line and lack of power in 2nd gear. But, I still need to find a solution to my low calculated air flow rate.
> 
> Wish I had offered to send you guys the AEM filter I bought. Could have saved myself $15 lost on shipping it back.


this is a huge what if and maybe,but you ever think you could find a 1.8l airbox and make it work with the 1.4.Im guessing just the actual box will be different


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

jakkaroo said:


> this is a huge what if and maybe,but you ever think you could find a 1.8l airbox and make it work with the 1.4.Im guessing just the actual box will be different


Why didn't you suggest that when I still had the AEM filter!!  I would have done it just so I could use the filter. 

Maybe XR knows what the main differences are. Wonder is the 1.8 box would collapse under the turbo's suction


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

titan2782 said:


> Why didn't you suggest that when I still had the AEM filter!!  I would have done it just so I could use the filter.
> 
> Maybe XR knows what the main differences are. Wonder is the 1.8 box would collapse under the turbo's suction


go to gmpartsdirect and look under the 1.8,the filter housing looks to mount in the same location as the 1.4 meaning easy swap.Just connect the hoses or air inlet tube as the technical people would say


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## The_Madcat (Oct 6, 2012)

Just put a K&N in ours and noticed the bog is lessened. Stock filter looks to be very restrictive.


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## blk88verde (Apr 30, 2011)

My first mod too was the K&N drop in on my 2011 Cruze ECO as well as my 2004 GTO. If I recall, the K&N along with 93 octane fuel made the Cruze so much better with regard to drivability.


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## Eco (May 13, 2011)

Guys AEM dryflow is ok, but I know that the ISO testing for a filter like a S&B cotton gause (similar to K&N only with more pleats and plys) has a MUCH higher efficiency at small particulates. So much so that I will never run a dry flow ever unless it's a stock restrictive OE paper filter, which requires so much more media to keep the filtration up to par.

And have you seen our paper oil filters? They are pretty darn crappy... Seems like all of the schmootz just flows around it and collects in the housing rather than flows through the media. So I'm going to try and keep as much crap out of the car as possible.

Now as far as everyone here actually stating they notice a difference that's interesting, I might just consider picking one up. Not looking for performance, but truth be told, if one can reduce pressure drop across the inlet of the turbo, that's just several thousands of RPM less the turbo has to spin to create an equal depression.

So guys if the electronics are working properly you shouldn't see an increase in calculated MAF, because the car is searching for a specific output. Instead if there were provision we could hook up a sensor to measure wheel speed, and we'd notice that the wheel speed is much lower to move the same amount of air. 1,5 maybe even 12K rpm slower to move the same amount. That means faster response, less backpressure (wheel speed goes up so does backpressure) and a slew of other improvements.


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## sciphi (Aug 26, 2011)

This makes me wonder if I need to rip out the OEM filter and try out the Delco replacement air filter I have.


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## Eco (May 13, 2011)

Pics of the delco?


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## steve333 (Oct 23, 2010)

grs1961 said:


> I just dropped a K&N into my '09 Oz-spec Korean-built 2.0l diesel, and it seems to just be that little bit swifter on the jump - but that could also be due to having done a DPF burn straight after!
> 
> And having had a good look over it, I can only say if people have had problems with oil getting into the sensors they must have done something wrong, in 80,000 kilometres or so, when I clean it, I'll have an idea as to how easy it is or isn't to over oil it!


I would personally just buy a new filter. They're not that expensive and I wouldn't take a chance on over oiling it, but that's just me.
Thinking of getting one for my Cobalt even though power is not an issue with the 2.2L Ecotec. I wish they used this engine in the Cruze.


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## Eco (May 13, 2011)

All you have to do is learn how to oil it... It's really super easy. Biggest mistake people make in over oiling is that they don't give the air filter time to equalize the oil, and think they need to spray it everywhere. When manufacturers oil them they squirt the right amount of ounces of fluid in 1 or 2 little strips. And it distributes on its own over time.


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## grs1961 (Oct 23, 2012)

steve333 said:


> I would personally just buy a new filter.


When it's time for it to be oiled, I'll decide then, because you are right, the cost of a new one is not ridiculous, but if we cost in my time oiling it...


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## steve333 (Oct 23, 2010)

I do maybe 5000 miles a year. A filter would last me at least 5 years before needing to be replaced, but honsetly I would just buy one every 2 years. It's 40 bucks. Still worth it IMO.


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## cronyjabrony (Aug 10, 2012)

a close friend of mine swears up and down that the dry filters are the way to go. He says the oil from the wet filters clogg up sensors etc., he also claims he noticed big difference in sound and performance on his CTS. So might get a dry filter to swap out my K&N cone and see if it is better.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

As far as oiling it correctly, look at this pic. Not even opened and you can see the oil in the bag. I imagine that this was extracted from the element during the vaccum sealing process. The box says 1.7oz of fluid to reoil the element. If they followed their own guidelines and yet still eneded up with oil in the bag, what the heck are we supposed to do?

View attachment 9547

I tried to go dry but AEM isn't playing the game. I'll take the improvements over the potential risks right now. 

Speaking of which, what is the recommended method of cleaning one's MAF?


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

titan2782 said:


> As far as oiling it correctly, look at this pic. Not even opened and you can see the oil in the bag. I imagine that this was extracted from the element during the vaccum sealing process. The box says 1.7oz of fluid to reoil the element. If they followed their own guidelines and yet still eneded up with oil in the bag, what the heck are we supposed to do?
> 
> View attachment 9547
> 
> ...


MAF cleaner spray is what I've always used. The less physical contact you make, the better.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

Driving to pick up the kids was a much better experience. Pickup from 1000-2500 is much much better and manageable. With my throttle adjustments on the tune, it will take off on me if I'm not paying attention.


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## MikeW (Nov 29, 2010)

I dropped in a couple K&N filters in my 370Z and felt that the responsiveness was improved. Surely we cannot all be imagining the better responsiveness on different vehicles. I can assume that the reasons behind the manufacturers not doing this to begin with are cost over a paper filter and the maintenance of an oiled filter. The average person would not want to mess around with cleaning and oiling, nor would they want the added cost of either paying a shop to do it or purchasing a much more expensive filter.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

MikeW said:


> I dropped in a couple K&N filters in my 370Z and felt that the responsiveness was improved. Surely we cannot all be imagining the better responsiveness on different vehicles. I can assume that the reasons behind the manufacturers not doing this to begin with are cost over a paper filter and the maintenance of an oiled filter. The average person would not want to mess around with cleaning and oiling, nor would they want the added cost of either paying a shop to do it or purchasing a much more expensive filter.


I would agree with this. Consumable parts that need to be maintained often will be better off as cheap, throw away parts that can be quick and easy for a normal person. It keeps the reoccuring costs/cost to own down


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## Eco (May 13, 2011)

Here watch this, S&B is the filter of my choice for turbo applications, in fact K&N doesn't even warranty their filters if you bolt them to the compressor housing! (not that you would here but in my Supra's application it sure happens). Look how the oil is applied.





Observe the oiling process.


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## grs1961 (Oct 23, 2012)

Eco said:


> Observe the oiling process.


Even better, they have a link on how to oil their filters: Cleaning & Re-Oiling an S&B Filter on Vimeo


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## Hoon (Mar 18, 2012)

MikeW said:


> I dropped in a couple K&N filters in my 370Z and felt that the responsiveness was improved. Surely we cannot all be imagining the better responsiveness on different vehicles. I can assume that the reasons behind the manufacturers not doing this to begin with are cost over a paper filter and the maintenance of an oiled filter. The average person would not want to mess around with cleaning and oiling, nor would they want the added cost of either paying a shop to do it or purchasing a much more expensive filter.


That style filter isn't used from the factory because it doesn't actually filter anything. 

K&N is good for flow, horrible for filtration. Even high hp cars come with cold air intakes with paper filters from factory...because they have a warranty to maintain.


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## Toyotech (Aug 17, 2012)

XtremeRevolution said:


> MAF cleaner spray is what I've always used. The less physical contact you make, the better.


Same here, about 6 bucks at your local autozone or parts store.

after about 8k miles my idle started to act up and gram rate upon idle increased...a quick 5 minutes of pulling the maf and cleaning fixed it. After 15 years of using k&n i can take ten minutes out of my life to clean a mass air flow


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

Sprayed mine off this morning. I'll see if it improves anything later today. After pulling out the MAF, I was really disappointed when I paid $7 for a big can of spray to use on a tiny element  Whatever, I can use it on the other cars.


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## jakkaroo (Feb 12, 2011)

i must say my new aem filter has greatly improved the performance in my 1.8l.


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## Toyotech (Aug 17, 2012)

titan2782 said:


> Sprayed mine off this morning. I'll see if it improves anything later today. After pulling out the MAF, I was really disappointed when I paid $7 for a big can of spray to use on a tiny element  Whatever, I can use it on the other cars.


think of it as lasting for several years. i think i've had my maf cleaner can and electrical connector cleaner for a good 5 years now. 7 bucks for 5 years and use it about 3 times a year


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## cruzey13 (May 14, 2012)

Dude...k and n owns armarm


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

cruzey13 said:


> Dude...k and n owns armarm


Bought them, doesn't mean they make the same product and doesn't change any debate of X vs Y.


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

I started using K&N drop ins in '92. Have had them in every car since with no MAF issues. The K&N I bought for the '03 P5 had a bit of excess oil in the bag when I took it out of the box. I washed it and re-oiled it prior to installation. I clean the filters every 10K miles with the oil change. I still have the can of K&N oil I bought in '92. Again, NO MAF issues with any of the cars and they have all run well over 100K miles.


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## Ben Jammin (Dec 12, 2012)

I don't understand any of the mods you guys have on your Cruzes lol wish I did, all I know is K&N = Good :th_dblthumb2:


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## rand49er (Dec 9, 2012)

At the risk of being contrary to popular opinion here based on what seems to be primarily subjective reporting, a CAI using a K&N filter shows virtually no improvement in hp on my '05 CTS-V with aftermarket supercharger as measured on a chassis dyno. As a result, I use a stock filter element which gives maximum protection to my engine and don't have to mess with cleaning my MAF sensor and risking a disruption to idle quality. The point is, until I see reputably produced data on this subject for my Cruze Eco, I'm going to trust the manufacturer's design and replacement recommendations and get my fuel economy improvements via driving style.


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## titan2782 (Nov 4, 2011)

Took my air box out today while installing my catch can. There is a tube that sits in the front of the air box and goes down under the frame. No idea what is, but in that small area it connects to in the air box, it was FULL of K&N oil. This is after only 2-3 months of driving with the K&N. My MAF is fine, nothing on it yet. I've already cleaned it 3 times but each time it is fine (i just hit it with spray just to be safe). 

No pics cause my phone was smoking crack.


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