# 2013 Cruze 1.8 died and won't start back



## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Jbradford90 said:


> I have seen one person with this same exact problem but have not seen the results. Also someone said there was another similar issue recently in the forum but I could not find anything. I have a 2013 Cruze with the 1.8 and today it died on me and would not crank back. I immediately hooked up my scanner and got the codes:
> 
> P0261- Cylinder 1 Fuel Injector low Voltage
> P0264- Cylinder 2 Fuel Injector low Voltage
> ...


F9 supplies the injectors, so when it blows, that causes the low voltage warnings you are seeing.

According to my drawing, F9 supplies both the injectors and the ignition coil module.

Relay KR75 in the underhood fuse block is the ignition relay. It supplies F9. So when you turn the key to start, the relay closes sending power to F9. Something downstream of F9 is shorted to ground causing it to blow. The injectors get +12V from F9, and have their low sides controlled by the ECM, so I doubt they are causing the excess current that is blowing F9. 

So I would look at the ignition coil module. Pull the connector off of it, then try to start the engine and see if F9 blows again. If it survives, you probably need a new ICM.

HTH.

Doug

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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

Welcome Aboard!











Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.


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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

Thank you for the help! I was able to do some testing and unplugged the coils. Sure enough the fuse did not blow so to confirm i plugged them back in and the fuse blew when i tried to crank it again. So i pulled them out and found the number 3 coil looked burnt. I have added the picture of the coils to show how it looks. I will need to get a new coil pack and see if that fixes the problem and will update when i find out.


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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

Update: the new coils did the trick and the car has been running just fine for a little more than a week so far. I will start a new thread but now it has a couple more issues.
1) it popped up with a code p219a which may be related to the new o2 sensor i put in but have since put the old one back in to see if it clears but no luck so far.

2) twice now i have gone out to start the car and it would not start. Not even try to crank over and the service power steering message would come up. This last time it also came up with the service traction control and service stabilitrac messages as well. When the car finally decided to start the power steering light, abs light, traction control light and brake light were all on.

I do not have anything to scan these modules but will be going to the parts store to see if they do soon. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

@plano-doug good work.

have your battery checked. When my battery on my cruze went out i wouldn’t get any crank and I had messages for service stabilitrak and power steering.


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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

I apologize. I forgot to mention i just put a new battery in it right after the first time it happened. Thank you though for the suggestion!


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Jbradford90 said:


> I apologize. I forgot to mention i just put a new battery in it right after the first time it happened. Thank you though for the suggestion!


I agree, it does sound like a battery or battery cable issue. Has your car gotten the improved negative battery cable? I quickly googled the link below. Also, double check your battery connections to be sure everything is clean and tight. 

Hopefully, the no-crank condition won't be too difficult to resolve.

Doug



https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10057574-8899.pdf



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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

Thank you for the information on the tsb. I knew there was one but did not know the details as i just acquired the vehicle last month due to my father's passing in August. Unfortunately I am out of the warranty replacement as the vehicle has 155k miles but i will look into replacing the cable with the new design.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

where did you buy your battery from.... just curious.


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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

My brother works at a tire shop and got it for me. It's a Duracell brand.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

ok That’s good. Walmart has a bad rep for selling bad batteries off the shelf.

are you able to jump the car and it will start?


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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

I've not had the opportunity to try that yet. This morning when it happened though while i was looking over stuff it eventually "came back" and i was able to start it. When it did start though it had all the lights mentioned earlier lit up. Unfortunately i had to be somewhere but tomorrow i am going to try to get it to act up again and see what i can find along with testing the battery cable


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

When I had similar issues that your having I noticed that the car would only start when the door was closed and the headlights off. Anything other than that and there was too much load on the battery since it was bad and it wouldn’t turn over or even give me a click.

I would try jumping the car. If you can start it with a jump start then check if your battery is good. (I know it’s brand new). Also check for corrosion at the terminals and make sure they are tight. if that doesn’t solve your starting issues then replace the negative battery Cable like Doug mentioned above.


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## Jbradford90 (Dec 14, 2019)

I will definitely look into that. Thank you!


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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> F9 supplies the injectors, so when it blows, that causes the low voltage warnings you are seeing.
> 
> According to my drawing, F9 supplies both the injectors and the ignition coil module.
> 
> ...


My 2011 Chevy Cruze is doing exactly what you said but we just replaced the ignition coil 2 days ago and it’s doing the same thing again could it be that the new ignition coil is defective?


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## ralph1981 (Jul 29, 2019)

Shelby30 said:


> My 2011 Chevy Cruze is doing exactly what you said but we just replaced the ignition coil 2 days ago and it’s doing the same thing again could it be that the new ignition coil is defective?


Unlikely. So you got fuel injector fault codes but replaced the ignition coil rail? I think we need to emphasize people giving more information & using a cheap ODB2 bluetooth dongle with their smartphones and the Torque Lite app to get the fault codes.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shelby30 said:


> My 2011 Chevy Cruze is doing exactly what you said but we just replaced the ignition coil 2 days ago and it’s doing the same thing again could it be that the new ignition coil is defective?


Let's start at the top. You have a 2011 Cruze with the 1.8 engine, correct? It will crank but not fire? Fuse F9 keeps blowing?

When you replaced the ignition coil module, the engine started? Then died? Or never started?

[Edit] Are you getting any codes?

Doug

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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> Let's start at the top. You have a 2011 Cruze with the 1.8 engine, correct? It will crank but not fire? Fuse F9 keeps blowing?
> 
> When you replaced the ignition coil module, the engine started? Then died? Or never started?
> 
> ...


Yes it’s a 2011 1.4 turbo after we replaced the ingnition coil It ran for about an hour and the traction control service came on when we shut it off And now it will on crank and keeps blowing the f9 fuse


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

Shelby30 said:


> Yes it’s a 2011 1.4 turbo after we replaced the ingnition coil It ran for about an hour and the traction control service came on when we shut it off And now it will on crank and keeps blowing the f9 fuse


We have seen bad coils brand new from the parts store.

@plano-doug maybe you remember that unfortunate guy a few months back with the exact same issue. He bought a coil and we dug deeper into his f9 fuse blowing only to find out he had a bad ICM from the store. 

try another ICM.


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

The part that sucks is there is no way to test the ICM and you have to buy the entire assembly 😔


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shelby30 said:


> Yes it’s a 2011 1.4 turbo after we replaced the ingnition coil It ran for about an hour and the traction control service came on when we shut it off And now it will on crank and keeps blowing the f9 fuse


It's probably the ICM. To verify it, unplug the ICM connector, install a new fuse for F9 (15A), then try to crank it, then check F9. If the fuse is good with the ICM disconnected (but blows with the ICM connected) that confirms a bad ICM.

One thing to check is to inspect the 4 plug wells. If there's oil or coolant down in one or more of them, it's probably shorting out the ICM and killing it, and indicative of another problem. Hopefully it's just a bad ICM and a new one solves the problem.

[Edit] Also, since the "traction control service" came on, there may be a code set. You should get/borrow a scanner and see what comes up. They can scan it for you at most parts stores.


Doug

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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Maqcro1 said:


> The part that sucks is there is no way to test the ICM and you have to buy the entire assembly 😔


You can ohm it out, altho I would need to look up the specs. Keep in mind, it's just four COPs packaged together. Which sucks when only one of them is bad and you have to replace all four  

Doug

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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

Maqcro1 said:


> We have seen bad coils brand new from the parts store.
> 
> @plano-doug maybe you remember that unfortunate guy a few months back with the exact same issue. He bought a coil and we dug deeper into his f9 fuse blowing only to find out he had a bad ICM from the store.
> 
> try another ICM.


Ok thank you so much I’ll post soon as they get on in stock


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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> It's probably the ICM. To verify it, unplug the ICM connector, install a new fuse for F9 (15A), then try to crank it, then check F9. If the fuse is good with the ICM disconnected, that confirms a bad ICM.
> 
> One thing to check is to inspect the 4 plug wells. If there's oil or coolant down in one or more of them, it's probably shorting out the ICM and killing it, and indicative of another problem. Hopefully it's just a bad ICM and a new one solves the problem.
> 
> ...


We unplugged the ICM and the fuse did NOT blow But when we plugged it back in and turned the key on it blow we will get another ICM and update as soon as we get it


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shelby30 said:


> We unplugged the ICM and the fuse did NOT blow But when we plugged it back in and turned the key on it blow we will get another ICM and update as soon as we get it


I edited my message, perhaps too late. I suggest getting a code scan done to be sure we're not missing anything.

Doug

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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> I edited my message, perhaps too late. I suggest getting a code scan done to be sure we're not missing anything.
> 
> Doug
> 
> .


Ok thank you we’ll do that also


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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

plano-doug said:


> You can ohm it out, altho I would need to look up the specs. Keep in mind, it's just four COPs packaged together. Which sucks when only one of them is bad and you have to replace all four
> 
> Doug
> 
> .


get back to me on that. I thought we determined in the past that an ohm test was not possible on these ICM.

if there is an ohm test id love to have that knowledge in case of a failure on my Cruze.


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Maqcro1 said:


> get back to me on that. I thought we determined in the past that an ohm test was not possible on these ICM.
> 
> if there is an ohm test id love to have that knowledge in case of a failure on my Cruze.


You may be right - I can't remember 

Looking at this drawing, it shows each plug's coil being driven from the _high side_ by the ECM. But if that's so, why does the ICM also need +12V (from F9) ?

Typically, the +12V would go to the high side of all four coils, and the ECM would switch the low side of the coils. Computer controlled circuits - ie, logic circuits - much prefer driving the low side.

There's a very expensive aftermarket ICM shown elsewhere here on the forum, and it's comprised of 4 individual coils. It would be nice to see how those four are wired together. That might lead us to a method for ohming out the ICM.

I'll try to find a better drawing for the ICM which shows what's inside of T8 and A90 in the pic. I need to see how the +12V is used inside the ICM.

Doug










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## Maqcro1 (Apr 29, 2019)

plano-doug said:


> You may be right - I can't remember
> 
> Looking at this drawing, it shows each plug's coil being driven from the _high side_ by the ECM. But if that's so, why does the ICM also need +12V (from F9) ?
> 
> ...


I could always remove mine and mess around with it. I’m gonna re gap my spark plugs soon anyways


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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> I edited my message, perhaps too late. I suggest getting a code scan done to be sure we're not missing anything.
> 
> Doug
> 
> .


We put the new coil On it today it run for less than one minute and started missing so shut it off and pulled the coil pack and it was already burning Between 3 and 4 just like the last one got it unplugged before it blow the fuse


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shelby30 said:


> We put the new coil On it today it run for less than one minute and started missing so shut it off and pulled the coil pack and it was already burning Between 3 and 4 just like the last one got it unplugged before it blow the fuse


Have you pulled the number 3 and 4 plugs? I wonder if one of them is damaged causing the coil module to short out and heat up.

Doug

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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> Have you pulled the number 3 and 4 plugs? I wonder if one of them is damaged causing the coil module to short out and heat up.
> 
> Doug
> 
> .


We replaced the spark plugs to Acdelco


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shelby30 said:


> We replaced the spark plugs to Acdelco


I'm sorry. I'm about stumped on this. It appears your car is eating ignition control modules  

Disconnect it, and ohm the ground wire in the connector. It's pin B, black wire.

All I can think is maybe you have a bad ground, and it's causing the ICM to ground itself thru another path causing the ICM to fail.

That said, it will get hot when in ordinary use. When you say "burning", how hot was it getting? Melted-plastic-and-smoking hot? 

If the engine is missing, I would expect it to set a code. Have you scanned it?

Doug

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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> I'm sorry. I'm about stumped on this. It appears your car is eating ignition control modules
> 
> Disconnect it, and ohm the ground wire in the connector. It's pin B, black wire.
> 
> ...


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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

Shelby30 said:


> View attachment 289094


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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

Shelby30 said:


> View attachment 289094


We have not had a chance to get it scanned again yet hopefully today we will


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## Shelby30 (Oct 4, 2020)

plano-doug said:


> I'm sorry. I'm about stumped on this. It appears your car is eating ignition control modules
> 
> Disconnect it, and ohm the ground wire in the connector. It's pin B, black wire.
> 
> ...


Well got it scanned and it giving a code B010E and U0140


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## plano-doug (Jul 1, 2015)

Shelby30 said:


> Well got it scanned and it giving a code B010E and U0140



U0140 - Lost comm w BCM
B010E​
The U0140 code means a loss of communication with the BCM. I would disconnect and re-connect the BCM connectors a couple times. That will clean off any oxide layer that may be affecting continuity. It will also ensure the connectors are fully seated. (Do this with the battery disconnected.) While at it, inspect for any obvious problem such as a broken wire or a wire separated from the connector(s).

Not sure about the B010E. I couldn't find a description for it. But it's a body code. Are you sure B010E is correct?

Neither of the codes pertains to engine (Pxxxx), so neither will be much help for a misfire. 

Were you able to ohm out the ground wire from the ICM? 

Doug

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