# ABS Light Is 'ON' In The Gauge and Meters Panel.



## bharath007 (Sep 7, 2011)

Hello Sir, I Have Detected That ABS Light Is 'ON' In The Gauge And Meters Panel. Is It Default Or There Is A Problem ?\

My Car Details : Chevy Cruze LT 2.0 

Please Help ..............


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## mcg75 (Mar 5, 2012)

It will come on when starting the car then go off a few seconds later. 

If it's on while driving, the car needs service.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

bharath007 said:


> Hello Sir, I Have Detected That ABS Light Is 'ON' In The Gauge And Meters Panel. Is It Default Or There Is A Problem ?\
> 
> My Car Details : Chevy Cruze LT 2.0
> 
> Please Help ..............




bharath007,
The Antilock Brake System (ABS) light comes on briefly when the engine is started. If the ABS light comes on and stays on while driving, stop as soon as possible and turn the ignition off. Start the engine again to reset the system. If the light stays on after driving at a speed above 13 mph, see your dealer for
service. A chime may also sound when the light comes on steady. If the regular brake system warning light is not on, the vehicle still has brakes, but not antilock brakes. If the regular brake system warning light is also on, the vehicle does not have antilock brakes and there is a problem with the regular brakes. If you have any further questions please feel free to contact me.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## Jim Frye (Mar 16, 2011)

bharath007 said:


> Hello Sir, I Have Detected That ABS Light Is 'ON' In The Gauge And Meters Panel. Is It Default Or There Is A Problem ?\
> 
> My Car Details : Chevy Cruze LT 2.0
> 
> Please Help ..............


There was a technical service bulletin (TSB) out last year for dirty wheel speed sensors. The WSS are segmented magnetic rings on the wheel spindles and if they get dirty, the magnetic pulses will not be picked up correctly. This may be the problem, but you really need to have the dealer service department look at it.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

I hate ABS, but stuck with it, based on the theory that if you have solid road under one wheel, other wheel can slip. Have yet to experience an icy rain that spreads that ice that unevenly. ABS module does block fluid flow to each wheel cylinder, those valves do jam with no braking at all on those wheels. With road salt and brake line rust, a real big pain to replace break lines from that module to each individual wheel, especially with that module way up high in the engine compartment. 

Bleeding is another pain as can get air locks in that module. In theory again, either need a GMTech II scanner to bleed the brakes or a pressure bleeder, but learned how to work around that. For whatever reason, generic affordable scanners don't want anything to do with ABS codes, some 40 odd codes to help you to isolate the problem.

But the bottom line is, if your car comes with ABS, they have got to work. Now all cars come with ABS, no choice, because some Stanford professor thinks they are 14% safer. In my opinion that doesn't count and experience, ABS generates over confidence in inexperienced drivers that shouldn't be on the road in the first place and constantly see these idiots skid through a traffic light or a stop sign. 

Cruze ABS is further complicated with the addition of traction control, another twenty or so codes. Typical codes are based on either an completely opened or shorted circuit, since I also have military experience, all codes are based on secondary or tertiary reference. You don't get this in a consumer product.

First question is, do you plan on repairing this yourself or is your vehicle still under warranty? If your ABS light is on, you have problems. When you first switch on the ignition switch, does a static test on all the electronics, pump, relays, and traction control. The master relay will not energize, ABS is inoperative, and suppose to have normal brakes provided a valve is not hung up.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, has been for years and still is, I plan on flushing my system every two years whether I want to or not. Get an acid build up and modules on are repairable. May get a heart attack if you look up the price of these things. First step in troubleshooting ABS is being 100% sure all four of your brakes are working properly. Surprising how this most important step is overlooked.

At about six-eight mph, can hear a very slight brush noise when first starting up, at this time the ABS is conducting a dynamic test essentially comparing pulse rates from each wheel sensor, this can generate a code. At least the Cruze is set up so that if a problem does appear and is self correcting, the ABS lamp will go off. No means to reset the codes on the ABS. Have to find and repair the problem first.

If out of warranty and have to pay for the repairs, up your credit card limit.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

Fortunately most common causes for the ABS light staying on are a faulty sensor or loose wire. Both are realatively easy to repair and not break the bank expensive.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

obermd said:


> Fortunately most common causes for the ABS light staying on are a faulty sensor or loose wire. Both are realatively easy to repair and not break the bank expensive.


Was true when these sensors were not integrated into the hub, Cruze has the sensors integrated into the hub so that must be replaced as a unit. So that will add a couple of bucks extra to the replacement cost.

Did tear apart one hub just to see what the problem was, was a flux solder connection that wasn't soldered very well that corroded causing an open circuit. One touch with a hot iron cured that, but only problem was, had to wreck the hub find that problem. This one just had some very fine copper wire wrapped around a permanent magnet, maybe a grams worth, was a 180 buck hub on that vehicle. 

See the Cruze price with shipping is a 135 bucks, times four, 540 bucks, divided by $16,800 that I paid for this thing with my GMcard and taxes, title and registration, represents about 1/30th the original price of the car. But certainly not 1/30th of all the parts that can go bad in this car.

This is what really tees me off. ABS module is cheap at 500 bucks compared to other vehicles, but also a throwaway part These five parts account for 1/16th the price of the car. Labor and paying list price is a **** of a lot more.


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

My Montana went through several ABS hubs when it was new. Turned out the problem was inductance on the power line. The current measured at the hub was twice the current measured at the distribution harness. Pontiac engineers had to get involved to fix this one. The hubs were a little less than $300 each (which Pontiac/GM ate under the warranty). When the power problem was corrected by rerouting the wire the dealership didn't test drive to ensure the power wire didn't come lose during driving. It did. This time I took it to Alpine Pontiac Buick GMC (see my comment in the Rave/Rant thread) and not only did they replace the hub again but they test drove the van and then double checked all the connections. They fixed the wire pulling lose problem. I never took my van back to where I bought it after that.

Pontiac filed a NHTSA incident report. 

As for replacement parts pricing - I have never figured out why replacement parts are so expensive. If they are truely that expensive no one could afford to buy a car.


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## dolores (Apr 28, 2012)

2011 Chevy Cruz 1LT 4 door; The steering wheel locks up and after juggling the wheel then can start the engine. all the dashboard lights, abs, brake, etc. come on and they stay on and do not turn off; The RPM's, mileage indicators, speed do not work. Have taken it to the dealer and they cannot find anything wrong. This has happened 5 times in the past 6 months. I was told to bring it in when it happened again and I did this Wednesday, and dealer's computer was down. When engine is shut down, and started again it resets itself and everything appears to work; but it does keep happening.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

dolores said:


> 2011 Chevy Cruz 1LT 4 door; The steering wheel locks up and after juggling the wheel then can start the engine. all the dashboard lights, abs, brake, etc. come on and they stay on and do not turn off; The RPM's, mileage indicators, speed do not work. Have taken it to the dealer and they cannot find anything wrong. This has happened 5 times in the past 6 months. I was told to bring it in when it happened again and I did this Wednesday, and dealer's computer was down. When engine is shut down, and started again it resets itself and everything appears to work; but it does keep happening.




dolores,
I understand your frustration with this issue. I would like to look into this for you. Can you please send me a PM with your name, address, phone number, VIN, current mileage, and the name of the dealership that you are working with? I look forward to hearing back from you.
Thank you,
Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


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## scha7530 (Apr 15, 2012)

Lots of incorrect information here!!!



NickD said:


> I hate ABS, but stuck with it, based on the theory that if you have solid road under one wheel, other wheel can slip. Have yet to experience an icy rain that spreads that ice that unevenly. ABS module does block fluid flow to each wheel cylinder, those valves do jam with no braking at all on those wheels. With road salt and brake line rust, a real big pain to replace break lines from that module to each individual wheel, especially with that module way up high in the engine compartment.


First, these cars have ESP (Electronic Stability Program) which means it not only has anti-lock braking, but stability control and traction control by braking. All of which will keep you much safer during an ice storm. I have experienced this first hand as in dec 2010 we had a serious ice storm here in SE MI, where the roads were icy for 3 days...it was nice to have less vehicles spinning out of control at stoplights. ABS will allow you to stop much straighter. The ESP will keep you from rolling over in a lot of cases...especially good in SUVs.

It will ONLY block fluid flow from the master cylinder during an event where its trying to decrease pressure (ABS mostly). They will almost never "Jam". They are ~1mm tappets that are controlled magnetically....so if the power is off to the magnets, they return to their relative position (There are both normally open and normally closed valves). They have restrictions in them to help with brake bias and make the control response optimal. 



> Bleeding is another pain as can get air locks in that module. In theory again, either need a GMTech II scanner to bleed the brakes or a pressure bleeder, but learned how to work around that. For whatever reason, generic affordable scanners don't want anything to do with ABS codes, some 40 odd codes to help you to isolate the problem.


I agree on the cheap scan tools not supporting it...the issues are almost always wheel speed sensors and you can test those with a multimeter...so its not needed for most.

You will be able to bleed the whole unit normally other than the area behind the normally closed valves. Once they are energized (do an ABS stop), the air will come out of those areas as well. This may make your pedal a little softer for a while...but then you can re-bleed and take care of that.



> But the bottom line is, if your car comes with ABS, they have got to work. Now all cars come with ABS, no choice, because some Stanford professor thinks they are 14% safer. In my opinion that doesn't count and experience, ABS generates over confidence in inexperienced drivers that shouldn't be on the road in the first place and constantly see these idiots skid through a traffic light or a stop sign.


You can steer during a panic stop with ABS. This will make it at much safer by this factor alone. Also, it will allow you to decelerate at much nearer to the maximum decel that your tires can provide. Once you get wheel lock, you're reducing your friction coefficient, especially on a wet road. This is critical with tires like the Eco's LRR tires. 



> Cruze ABS is further complicated with the addition of traction control, another twenty or so codes. Typical codes are based on either an completely opened or shorted circuit, since I also have military experience, all codes are based on secondary or tertiary reference. You don't get this in a consumer product.


There is a lot more programming involved in this. It knows what its supposed to be seeing and will throw a plausibility fault if that's out of line.



> At about six-eight mph, can hear a very slight brush noise when first starting up, at this time the ABS is conducting a dynamic test essentially comparing pulse rates from each wheel sensor, this can generate a code. At least the Cruze is set up so that if a problem does appear and is self correcting, the ABS lamp will go off. No means to reset the codes on the ABS. Have to find and repair the problem first.


This is the pump check. Its seeing if it can build any pressure and that the pressure sensor works correctly. It is ALWAYS comparing the WSS signal to the VSS and the steering wheel angle sensor. 

*Most likely there is a WSS fault*


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## blackeagle (Mar 20, 2015)

Chevy Customer Care said:


> bharath007,
> The Antilock Brake System (ABS) light comes on briefly when the engine is started. If the ABS light comes on and stays on while driving, stop as soon as possible and turn the ignition off. Start the engine again to reset the system. If the light stays on after driving at a speed above 13 mph, see your dealer for
> service. A chime may also sound when the light comes on steady. If the regular brake system warning light is not on, the vehicle still has brakes, but not antilock brakes. If the regular brake system warning light is also on, the vehicle does not have antilock brakes and there is a problem with the regular brakes. If you have any further questions please feel free to contact me.
> Thank you,
> Stacy Chevrolet Customer Service


I had the same with my 2011 Chevy Cruze LS. The ABS light just turn on while accelerating on the highway and will stay on even when the tires are not slippery. I took it to the dealer and they say it was a negative battery cable so they replace that. It work for a few day then the ABS light just turn on again even when the road is not wet or slippery. I just frustrated and will look to trade away my Cruze...such a beautiful car but too much issues.


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## NickD (Dec 10, 2011)

> First, these cars have ESP (Electronic Stability Program) which means it not only has anti-lock braking, but stability control and traction control by braking. All of which will keep you much safer during an ice storm.


Safety! My butt, if a wheel slips going up a hill, traction control kills the engine, darn near smashed my Cruze up when this happened. Good thing they have a switch, to turn this dam thing off. Have to put up with two very annoying orange lamps on my dash when driving in icy conditions, particularly at night. 

Then traction control is only good up to 35 mph so what good is this driving on a curvy tree lined road at night? I drive at 36 mph. Somebody is smoking crack with traction control in some weird attempt to help people that shouldn't be on the road in the first place.


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## au201 (May 18, 2013)

NickD said:


> Then traction control is only good up to 35 mph so what good is this driving on a curvy tree lined road at night? I drive at 36 mph. Somebody is smoking crack with traction control in some weird attempt to help people that shouldn't be on the road in the first place.


Where did you get that information?? I've had traction control kicking at 50! Pretty positive it works at all speeds...



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


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## obermd (Mar 3, 2012)

The older traction controls would disengage around 25 MPH. I don't know what the newer systems do at higher speeds. I do have to agree that the concept of cutting power while on the gas is stupid. My Montana had GM's Versatrak AWD and its version of Traction Control was to move the power to another wheel - a much better solution.


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## Chevy Customer Care (Oct 29, 2011)

blackeagle said:


> I had the same with my 2011 Chevy Cruze LS. The ABS light just turn on while accelerating on the highway and will stay on even when the tires are not slippery. I took it to the dealer and they say it was a negative battery cable so they replace that. It work for a few day then the ABS light just turn on again even when the road is not wet or slippery. I just frustrated and will look to trade away my Cruze...such a beautiful car but too much issues.


Hey Blackeagle, 

We are truly sorry for this! We value you as our customer, and I would be more than happy to look into this further for you if necessary. Please feel free to send me a private message along with your VIN, current mileage, contact information and a preferred dealership. Looking forward to hearing from you. 

Patsy G
Chevrolet Customer Care


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

blackeagle said:


> I had the same with my 2011 Chevy Cruze LS. The ABS light just turn on while accelerating on the highway and will stay on even when the tires are not slippery. I took it to the dealer and they say it was a negative battery cable so they replace that. It work for a few day then the ABS light just turn on again even when the road is not wet or slippery. I just frustrated and will look to trade away my Cruze...such a beautiful car but too much issues.


I think a lot of cars get an ABS light that is traced to wheel sensor wiring. Wires can only flex so much before they break. Unfortunately, it also tends to be an intermittent problem, which is the worst kind of problem to have - for the tech, the dealer and the customer. Only way to dodge it is to always drive nearly-new cars. But that gets expensive.


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