# 2918 Cruze Diesel - Changed the fuel filter --- What a mess!



## kickascii (Nov 11, 2015)

I had to use an impact to remove the filter casing. Great idea until it actually comes off and sprays diesel fuel all over me (hair, chest, face, mouth, arms, legs) and made a huge mess on the floor. 

Be VERY careful when using an impact wrench for this job (36mm, BTW).

After showing for 45 minutes, I still stink like diesel fuel. Any tips?


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## Rivergoer (Mar 30, 2017)

LOL. 

From Google (haven’t tried it)

*Steps*

Pour white vinegar on your hands. The chemical properties in white vinegar break up the bonds in gasoline so that the residue can fade. ... 
Rub with the white vinegar for 30 to 45 seconds. Quickly rub your palms together. ... 
Wash your hands under a faucet.


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## oregon_rider (Jul 21, 2017)

Wow. That sounds like no fun at all. 

Drain it first. There is an Allen on the bottom to drain water etc.

An impact driver will knock it loose. The kind you whack with a hammer. 

Or on my diesel pickup I use a strap wrench in the housing. 

Jeff


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## HondaTech2016 (Apr 20, 2017)

I've had to pull the entire canister off the car both time I've changed mine so far and strap it down to a bench to remove the cap. 

Thinking of getting the replacement aluminum cap offered for L5P duramax since it's the same housing.


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## kickascii (Nov 11, 2015)

oregon_rider said:


> Wow. That sounds like no fun at all.
> 
> Drain it first. There is an Allen on the bottom to drain water etc.
> 
> ...


I actually did that before getting the canister off and only a little came out.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

Last change on my Gen 1 (basically same housing), it would not budge, then the torque applied popped it out of the plastic mounting. I then tried a 2 man operation with a strap wrench in the housing... Resulting in an unwelcome sound of plastic cracking. I ended up with it fully removed and in my bench vice to get it off. Fortunately the crack was in part of the mount and not a pressure boundary and could be plastic weld repaired. 
After all that it was clear to me that something on this housing wasn't right. The prior change was not this difficult, and it was tight putting the cap back in. Next time I'm replacing the housing, and would advise anyone having trouble with getting the cap off to consider taking the entire thing out and doing it on the bench. It's on connectors and 2 fuel lines.


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## oregon_rider (Jul 21, 2017)

FYI - Looking at the instructions for filter replacement on alldatadiy.com the torque on the filter cap is 18 foot pounds.


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## MP81 (Jul 20, 2015)

Yeah, it doesn't need to be crazy tight. "Spark plug tight" is probably a good way to put it - aka, just tight enough.


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

oregon_rider said:


> FYI - Looking at the instructions for filter replacement on alldatadiy.com the torque on the filter cap is 18 foot pounds.


Yes, but I'm pretty sure I had to use more than 18 ft/lbs just to get it threaded all the way on. It was an excessively tight fit on the threads (I even applied teflon grease to help). I was also not over torqued on the prior filter change. It appears the plastic housing or cap had swelled, as plastic can do at times. The housing was given a new part number on the Gen 2, but it's basically the same, so I wonder if an engineering problem was addressed in the way this thing was made?


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## MRO1791 (Sep 2, 2016)

HondaTech2016 said:


> I've had to pull the entire canister off the car both time I've changed mine so far and strap it down to a bench to remove the cap.
> 
> Thinking of getting the replacement aluminum cap offered for L5P duramax since it's the same housing.


Good idea, but that cap is $86! a complete housing with cap is less than that. 






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Buy iFJF 134001 Fuel Filter Housing Cap for 2017+ GM Duramax 6.6L L5P Billet Aluminum with Drain Plug(Silver): Fuel Filters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



smile.amazon.com


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## dlmetzger63 (Sep 28, 2017)

HondaTech2016 said:


> I've had to pull the entire canister off the car both time I've changed mine so far and strap it down to a bench to remove the cap.
> 
> Thinking of getting the replacement aluminum cap offered for L5P duramax since it's the same housing.


I'm glad I came across this post. The filter housing will not loosen/release from the cap before it pops out of the plastic 'V' bracket. Pop/remove the electrical connector on top of the filter housing. Then remove the single clip on the big fuel line and then the 2 clips on the small fuel line to remove the housing from the vehicle. I had no vise to hold the housing. So I stepped on it and used an impact wrench to remove the cap from the housing. I also replaced the plastic cap with the AL one. Hopefully I don't have to do the same process for the next fuel filter.


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## boraz (Aug 29, 2013)

MRO1791 said:


> Yes, but I'm pretty sure I had to use more than 18 ft/lbs just to get it threaded all the way on. It was an excessively tight fit on the threads (I even applied teflon grease to help). I was also not over torqued on the prior filter change. It appears the plastic housing or cap had swelled, as plastic can do at times. The housing was given a new part number on the Gen 2, but it's basically the same, so I wonder if an engineering problem was addressed in the way this thing was made?


almost every part of the car has a new part number from release date.


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## firehawk618 (Feb 24, 2013)

Yes it was kind of a pain. As others stated it will pop out of the retaining bracket before that cap comes loose.

I just removed the whole unit and was able to get it to come off by holding the housing in one hand and using an impact with the other GENTLY. The tapping action of the impact rotated it off one whack at a time.


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