# Questions About PAC AA-GM44



## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Direct plug n play. It will get the job done but if you'd rather have slightly better audio quality I would highly recommend the LC2I or the LC26. The first being a 2 channel and the second a 6 channel. These do a much better job of filtering the signals. I have even read a few BMW M5 owners stating the audio quality shocked them; it sounded as good as a premium aftermarket deck. I mention BMW owners as they tend to have the money to drop on a $1500 headunit. 

All in all, either way you go you'll get the job done


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## bradlee2010 (May 30, 2014)

Using those I would have to pull from the harness correct? 


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## XtremeRevolution (Jan 19, 2012)

Moved thread to Audio & Electronics. Question threads do not belong in the "How-To Library" section of the forum.


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## bradlee2010 (May 30, 2014)

Ok sorry thanks 


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

Using a LC2I or LC6I you would have to tap into the speaker lines. You can do this either behind the radio or down by the driver's kick plate adjacent to the clutch pedal or brake pedal on an automatic. Yes spacing is tight, but you can always run a little extra wire to mount the box in a location you deem appropriate. This is a bonus in my opinion as the GM-44 is a one location install only. For the additional $30 I think most people would be much happier with the audio quality vs the straight plug and play. Just wanted to give you a couple options as nothing is more frustrating than purchasing something and finding out their is a better product or method out there for about the same cost.


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## kastner03 (May 24, 2014)

What are you trying to do? Amp for your highs or to add subs? For amount your highs the gm-44 is the way to go You can cut it's harness in half and use the side from the radio to feed your amp and then back in from the amp in to the other side. Saves from hacking your wiring harness that's what I did and installed a rockford pbr 300,4 under the passanger side seat Sounds freakin a awesome even with the stock speakers once it's tuned right. For just adding a sub amp the lc installed in the drivers side kick panel is the easiest, cheapest option and should work just fine but then you have to work up a relay system for the remote wire for the amp or put it on a switch or fuse tap. The gm-44 provides a remote turn on so this is also a plus for it I've done it both ways fits with a pac lc just for subs then 2 weeks later I re did it and added the other amp and ran it all off the gm44 My subs sound better now than they did before off the original lc


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## bradlee2010 (May 30, 2014)

I'm really looking to get some components in the front, and just a 10 in the back. I'm thinking about the LC6i I just don't like to tap into the harness, but in order to get the best quality I think it's the only way to go. 


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

kastner03 said:


> What are you trying to do? Amp for your highs or to add subs? For amount your highs the gm-44 is the way to go You can cut it's harness in half and use the side from the radio to feed your amp and then back in from the amp in to the other side.


There is no reason to cut the GM-44. Use the RCAs to the amp. The ONLY reason you would not be able to use RCAs is if your amp ONLY accepted HI Level input. I don't know of an amp that doesn't accept RCA inputs. 

For the LC2/6I you don't need a separate amp turn on as the units provide an amp turn on wire which is kicked on by the sense of an audio signal. If you needed a separate turn on signal all you would have to do is buy a $2 add a fuse and run the line to the amp. So simple.


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

bradlee2010 said:


> I'm really looking to get some components in the front, and just a 10 in the back. I'm thinking about the LC6i I just don't like to tap into the harness, but in order to get the best quality I think it's the only way to go.


You can get by with a 2 channel output but I agree the 6 channel is the best way to go for the money. It will also give you the most control over the signals going to the amps for, you guessed it, the money.


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## kastner03 (May 24, 2014)

The reason to cut the gm44 harness is to get the output from the 4 channel amp to all the door speakers without rewiring all the door speakers 


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## kastner03 (May 24, 2014)

Unless you wanna run all new speaker wires to your doors from your amp Which is a pain in the ass The way I said is the way to go, no cutting or tapping into the factory wiring at all it just plugs in


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

kastner03 said:


> Unless you wanna run all new speaker wires to your doors from your amp Which is a pain in the ass The way I said is the way to go, no cutting or tapping into the factory wiring at all it just plugs in


If you don't want to cut the factory wiring yes, this would be a good choice to send your amplified signal back to the speakers.

If you install the LC6I in the kick panel, it would be far easier to connect to the wires going to the speakers then it would behind the radio. There isn't much room if any, behind the stock stereo for additional wires/connections let alone the GM-44 itself; not to mention snaking all the wires through the dash.


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## kastner03 (May 24, 2014)

iTz SADISTIK;1118666
If you install the LC6I in the kick panel said:


> agreed theres not alot of room but its do able with the passanger side panel next to the floor removed it wasnt all that difficult plus the fact that my 4 channel amp is under the seat so it was easy and only like 3 feet of wire required. main reason i did it that way was bc it was a new car and i didnt wanna go and cut all the wiring incase of warranty issue, 20 mins i can unplug/remove everything and return to stock


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## iTz SADISTIK (Apr 6, 2014)

kastner03 said:


> agreed theres not alot of room but its do able with the passanger side panel next to the floor removed it wasnt all that difficult plus the fact that my 4 channel amp is under the seat so it was easy and only like 3 feet of wire required. main reason i did it that way was bc it was a new car and i didnt wanna go and cut all the wiring incase of warranty issue, 20 mins i can unplug/remove everything and return to stock


Tapping into the speaker wire to power aftermarket speakers wouldn't void any part of the warranty I'm aware of unless you put your 12v power source to the wrong wire of course. Again, the dealership has to be able to say why your modification caused the problem. If they can't then it should be covered. If you're replacing the speakers then there isn't much for the warranty to cover in that department anyways.


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## Christr15 (May 13, 2014)

If you tap the wires from the kick panel, wont you just have the wires for that side's speakers(kick panel on driver only has L speakers, on passenger side, only R channel)? The lc2i has L and R channel inputs, wouldn't you want L and R both wired in?


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## Christr15 (May 13, 2014)

Christr15 said:


> If you tap the wires from the kick panel, wont you just have the wires for that side's speakers(kick panel on driver only has L speakers, on passenger side, only R channel)? The lc2i has L and R channel inputs, wouldn't you want L and R both wired in?


Nevermind, found my answer, they are all in the driver side kick panel. 
Good youtube video that someone else posted on the site
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-y8hgSNtos


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