# A good samaritan fried my radio



## brandondash (Sep 2, 2016)

2011 eco

Long story short I needed a jump and he crossed the hot and cold. 

So after I put in a new battery eveything was back to normal EXCEPT my infotainment system.

Symptoms:
- The screen looks like something out of the matrix
- No sound
- The volume is forever on 4 (in spite of no actual sound)
- It allows me to set the clock
- config does nothing on press
- the previously saved bluetooth connection does get recognized (my cellphone) but no calls can be made 
- the balance/fade interface appears to work but I don't know for sure with no sound


I checked the fuses that seemed relevant and nothing is burnt out. I need to know what I can do next myself (if anything), or what the problem most likely is, and the cost to fix.

Anybody have any experience with this? Google has been... Less than helpful


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## Eddy Cruze (Jan 10, 2014)

The Hot & Cold? It is good to know that there are still Good Samaritans out there!


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Hew hahaha ..oh well.


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## brandondash (Sep 2, 2016)

He hooked up the positive jumper to the negative battery terminal and visa versa. There were sparks, smoke, and a dead infotainment system. :/


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

You have one or more modules fried. It's guesswork as to which one(s) it may be - and they're not all that cheap to replace. And they probably require a dealer or mechanic with the right tool to reprogram - you can't just pull one out of a wreck and get it to work. Cost-wise, I think find a good independent mechanic that has the tools to reprogram modules. 

If I had to guess, it would be the main radio. But there could be other modules as well.


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## brian v (Dec 25, 2011)

Chevyguy pull up the schematics for the infotainment circuitry along with the wiring diagrams ....I am pretty sure the BCM is involved here and not just modules ..we are talking Data signals and not just mili volts ..


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## AcGolfer (Feb 5, 2017)

brandondash said:


> 2011 eco
> 
> Long story short I needed a jump and he crossed the hot and cold.
> 
> ...


Hi everyone I having basically the same problem but I was the Good Samaritan for my girlfriend's 2011 Cruze. So you know I'm in trouble. It was only for a second but I know that is all it takes sometime.

So no sound from blinkers, radio, cd, no Bluetooth and etc. The display is readable but messed up and on mine I can see volume and it can be change but of course still no sound.

My brother is a electrical engineer and we took the radio/cd player, display and the controller(push buttons) out and he checked them out the best he could and found no obvious problems.

Brian V mentioned that the BCM could be the problem (sure hope not sound very expensive) but I was thinking since that control so many other things that are working correctly that it is not bad.

My thinking is that the display is also not bad because it's is only a display and just displaying garage that is being inputted to it.
And the controller is only buttons so it probably not bad.
So that only leaves the radio that is causing the problem even though we didn't see anything wrong.

Am I thinking along the right line or is there other component that I need to investigate?
Thanks in advance, AcGolfer.


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## ChevyGuy (Dec 13, 2014)

AcGolfer said:


> So no sound from blinkers, radio, cd, no Bluetooth and etc. The display is readable but messed up and on mine I can see volume and it can be change but of course still no sound.


Everything you describe tends to point to a bad "silver box". The blinker sound is created by the radio and played though the speakers.


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## AcGolfer (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks ChevyGuy, I found one with the same P/N and RPO CODE from a wreck Cruze.
Does that mean I wouldn't need it reprogramed from the dealer? 
And you think the display will be ok after replacement of the radio?
Thank, AcGolfer


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## StLouisCPhT (Sep 13, 2015)

AcGolfer said:


> Thanks ChevyGuy, I found one with the same P/N and RPO CODE from a wreck Cruze.
> Does that mean I wouldn't need it reprogramed from the dealer?
> And you think the display will be ok after replacement of the radio?
> Thank, AcGolfer


You will still need a dealer to reprogram it for your car's VIN. Or I can give you directions on how your brother could do it for you instead for about $10-15.

No clue about the rest of the equipment however.


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## Blasirl (Mar 31, 2015)

AcGolfer said:


> Hi everyone I having basically the same problem but I was the Good Samaritan for my girlfriend's 2011 Cruze. So you know I'm in trouble. It was only for a second but I know that is all it takes sometime.
> 
> So no sound from blinkers, radio, cd, no Bluetooth and etc. The display is readable but messed up and on mine I can see volume and it can be change but of course still no sound.
> 
> ...


You should read this post by @StLouisCPhT: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/55641-mylink-upgrade-diy.html

specifically

1. Location of EEPROM: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...link-upgrade-diy-post2651538.html#post2651538

2. Hardware needed: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-g...link-upgrade-diy-post2651786.html#post2651786


For future reference, print this and put it in with your jumper cables and never let the Good Samaritan connect to your vehicle without you verifying!


To safely jump a start, follow these steps:

01. Take out your jumper cables. It’s a good idea to buy a set of jumper cables and keep them in the trunk compartment. If you don’t have jumper cables, you have to find a good Samaritan who not only is willing to assist you but who has jumper cables as well.
02. Place both vehicles in Park or Neutral and shut off the ignition in both cars.
03. Engage both parking brakes as well.
04. Attach one of the red clips to the positive terminal of your battery. It has “POS” or “+” on it, or it’s bigger than the negative terminal.
05. Attach the other red clip to the positive terminal of the other car.
06. Attach one of the black clips to the negative terminal on the other battery.
07. Attach the last black clip to an unpainted metal surface on your car that isn’t near the battery. Use one of the metal struts that holds the hood open.

The cables should look like this.

http://d2r5da613aq50s.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/506037.image1.jpg


08. Start the working vehicle and let the engine run for a few minutes.
09. Try to start your vehicle. If it won’t start, make sure that the cables are properly connected and have the good Samaritan run his or her engine for five minutes. Then try to start your car again. If it still won’t start, your battery may be beyond help.

10. If the jump works and your car starts, don’t shut off your engine! Drive around for at least 15 minutes to recharge your battery. If the car won’t start the next time you use it, the battery isn’t holding a charge and needs to be replaced.


Blatently stolen from: How to Jump Start a Car


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## AcGolfer (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks StLouisCPhT, I'll get the radio first.

And Blasirl, thanks for the refresher, I knew how to jump a car, I just looked at the terminal wrong and in a second the damage was done. haha
Thanks AcGolfer


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